Word Vietnam November 2016 by Word Vietnam

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 11 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM

Women

Contents Nov.2016

THE TALK

emergency it will save your life

EAT & DRINK

10 / Safe From Harm

22 / The Hidden Houses of Hanoi

104 / Six Shades of Vegan Green

Assault in Hanoi is on the rise

11 / The Big Five

November in Vietnam

BRIEFINGS 12 / Casting the Net

Finding a sustainable way to save our fishing stock

14 / The Library

Bringing reading culture to Vietnam’s youth

16 / Hanoi International Women’s Club

25 years young and going strong

18 / *9999

A number to remember. In an

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One woman’s search into Hanoi’s glorious past

INSIDER 58 / Sister Act

Most salads have animal products in them. These ones don’t

110 / Mystery Diner Hanoi This month: Cousins

Two nuns, two churches, two different paths to the future

112 / Xoi Xiu

62 / Building Quest

114 / Mystery Diner HCMC

Behind the scenes at Vietnam’s premier music and arts festival

68 / Women

A celebration of this country’s women and the difficulties they face

Sticky rice with char-siu pork Twenty21one gets some positive feedback

116 / Banh Tam Bi

A dish from the Delta that mixes savoury with sweet

96 / Chup Dao

Life on the streets through a camera lens

116

Contents Nov.2016

124

134

138

TRAVEL

150 / Bar Stool

118 / Banteay Srei

152 / Coffee Cup

They’re part of the temples of Angkor Wat, but they’re a little bit different

124 / Inside Phong Nha

156 / Top Eats 162 / City Map

COLUMNS 146 / The Alchemist 148 / The Therapist 158 / Medical Buff 160 / Starting a Family

There’s a lot more to do in Phong Nha than visiting the caves

HCMC 36 / To Do List

132 / Destination Zero 1

44 / Just In

172 / Body and Temple

134 / Destination Zero 1

166 / HCMC City Guide

174 / Location, Location, Location

138 / Notes From Another City

168 / Day Tripper

179/ Saigon Stories

HANOI

180 / Bar Stool

194 / Know Your City

48 / To Do List

184 / Coffee Cup

54 / Just In

188 / Top Eats 1

FINAL SAY 198 / Antibiotics: Cure or Curse?

140 / Hanoi City Guide

190 / Top Eats 2

142 / Day Tripper

196 / City Map

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161 / A World of Good

Bacteria are putting up a fight

200 / Ten 10

Meet Shoko Ishikawa, the country representative for UN Women

Contributors

This month we asked our team to tell us about the woman they admire the most and why. HARRY HODGE Contributor My wife is a trooper, having two kids in a yearand-a-half and putting up with me. My mom is also amazing, raising me and my brother while blasting through law school. I’m gonna hedge my bets and say they’re both rock stars. ZOE OSBORNE Staff Writer My mum — I’ve always looked up to her as someone who works hard and complains little. She’s a mother of three and has just completed a Bachelors in Nursing which she took part-time while caring for us all. She’s now a fully registered and practicing nurse, as well as a full-time mother and an amazing role model. MIKE PALUMBO Contributor My mother is the most strong hearted and highly motived woman in my life. She is the only person that I know who has the patience of a saint and will always be there for me whenever I need her, no matter what my situation is. Without her, I would not be here. JULIE VOLA Photo Editor All the women who work to the bone in the streets every day doing the jobs nobody else wants to do. All the women who sacrifice so much to raise their family. All the women who survive physical and sexual violence. All the women who have to make the most difficult decision. All the women who fight and win to make their way to the top. All the women who fight for people who have no voice. MADS MONSEN Creative Director Gratitude to my mother. She puts us kids first and herself always last. Only when you are older and have kids yourself you can recognise the true sacrifice and the depth of motherly love. JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer I’m in awe of every woman who’s ever stood up for herself, because we all know how hard it can be. MATT COWAN Staff Writer Of course it’s my mum. She raised three rat bag boys and a daughter who have all turned out pretty ok. NICK ROSS Chief Editor Simple. My wife. She’s tough, she’s funny, she’s intelligent, she’s a good mother, she’s a homemaker, she’s a businesswoman, she knows how to look good and she’s my partner in life. What isn’t there to admire?

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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor nick@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager vy@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

JULIE VOLA Photo Editor julie@wordvietnam.com

BAO ZOAN Staff Photographer baozoan@wordvietnam.com

MATTHEW COWAN Staff Writer matt@wordvietnam.com

JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer (Hanoi) jesse@wordvietnam.com

ZOE OSBORNE Staff Writer zoe@wordvietnam.com NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com

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For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244 Special thanks to Marika Vilisaar, Youth Culture Library, Chao Downtown, HIWC, Family Medical Practice, Saigon Ink, Linda Mazur, Project Sprouts, Bennett Murray, ISSP, Sao Mai, Dallas Waines, New World Hotel, Nga Le, Harry Hodge, Mike Palumbo, Edward Dalton, Le Thuy, Mai Khoi, Kathy Uyen, Kaitlin Rees and Nha Thuyen, Theo Lowenstein, Chi Anh Dao, Mai Vu Pham, Anupa Horvil, Nic & Lisa, Irene Öhler, Nguyen Hoang Oanh, Pham chi lan, Dr. Khuat Thi Hai Oanh, Cousins, Huyen Tran, Leah Rolando, Twenty21One, GIZ, Easy Tiger, Mia Nha Trang, Don Wills, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Heyday Beer Club, Reng Reng, Tran Cam Thu, May Taste, Dr. Jonathan Halevy, Lee Shayi, Dana Mcnairn, Phil Kelly, Greg Ohan, Rogue, So 7 Café, Spice Temple. Sancho Cantina, Ed Haysom, Shoko Ishikawa and David Legard

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BILLY GRAY Contributor I’d love to be original and throw a spanner in the works, but hey, mine is my mum. She’s always looked out for me and my two sisters. She’s run two businesses, worked in more trades than most can list over the years, and on top of it all, she’s put up with our family along the way.

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Prelude

e plan our cover stories months in advance and when in March we pencilled in an issue devoted to women for November, we didn’t realise that in the meantime the UK would appoint a female prime minister and that the magazine would be published against the backdrop of the US presidential election. By Nov. 9, 2016, the new president-elect might be a woman. As presidential

elections go, the present one has been nasty, but it’s made for obsessive viewing. One ugly theme that appeared in soundbites was the treatment of women by the Republican candidate, who showed that he had a less than exemplary view of the opposite sex. The recording of him discussing female conquests and his prancing around on stage behind his female opponent during the second televised debate were two of many faux pas that alienated large portions of America’s female voters. It created widespread anger, too. Fortunately, this month’s cover story is not about the presidential election

— blanket media coverage has already been devoted to the topic. Instead it is a celebration of women in Vietnam, women past and present who have achieved great things. It also focuses on the raw deal women often get, on domestic violence and the economy, and what needs to be done to bridge the equality gap in this country. Yet with this election festering in the background, and with a growing worldwide reaction against political correctness, creating our monthly ‘masterpiece’ has been a challenge. We live in an age which is difficult, uncertain and full of fears, real and imagined. Whatever

political directions we take globally, whatever barriers and intolerances arise, they should not be allowed to threaten the advances in gender equality that have been made over the past century. So how do you make people of all persuasions realise their importance in the light of growing pressure to be intolerant and fearful of others? We’ve tried to do this in our cover story and cater for everyone. We know that some people won’t like what we’ve done. And we know that others will think we’ve been too tame. No matter how hard you try, you can’t please everyone. — Nick Ross, Chief Editor

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 11 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

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The

THIS MONTH'S COVER Design by DH Advertising

Have Your Say We know you’ve got feedback. So let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.

Inbox Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us at nick@ wordvietnam. com — we’re at your fingertips.

A Personal History A great read. One of the best issues you’ve done this year. — TW The General Sciences Library. I love that building. It’s one of my favourites buildings in Saigon — NVK Good to see some focus on history. The past is being destroyed in Vietnam. I’m not nostalgic, but I don’t think you can get a perspective on the present without having respect for the past and what got you here. — JL

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Some Concerns I am writing with regards to three pieces: Where to BYOB in Hanoi (Page 90, August, 2016) and the two articles on The Transformation of Quang Ba (Page 16, October 2016) and A Short History of TayHo (Page 88, October 2016). Where to BYOB Quite apart from endorsing public drinking, which has led to incredibly destructive behaviours in the West, I was disappointed see that an idea would be to drink on the Nhat Tan Bridge. It’s not even tongue-in-cheek funny.Having seen so many motorbike fatalities in Vietnam, of which many are alcohol-related, to

suggest that it’s acceptable to stop on a motorway to drink and climb over the side of a bridge as part of that experience is at best questionable. You wouldn’t advocate those behaviours in your home country, why would you do it in your host country? Quang Ba / TayHo My concern with these articles are that they completely ignore the social and environmental destruction of the neighbourhood community and the parody of itself that the place has become. The one true statement is that the rich have benefited at the expense of the rest. The infrastructure is collapsing

and will completely do so once the large apartments are completed, and the environment is continuing to degrade. Friday nights look like a refugee camp from a Bob Marley concert and many, many small Vietnamese businesses have been squeezed out to make way for mediocre western fare or what caters to that market. Not all progress is positive, and progress which deeply affects a long standing community is actually a step back. You had an opportunity to highlight some of these issues in writing the pieces, it’s a shame that it was pitched as a quaint travel pastiche.— DH

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Talk Lead Safe from Harm Assault is on the rise — and a new target is female expats

t the turn of the century, talk to any Vietnamese about their country and they would say two things. They would mention the poverty. “We are a poor country,” they would say. Then they would move onto peace. After 50 years of war, it amazed them that Vietnam was a safe place to live. During the early part of the last decade it was very safe. Unless you found yourself in a motorbike accident — where at times foreigners would be on the wrong side of local retribution — or unless you had a bag snatched in Ho Chi Minh City or Vung Tau, you didn’t encounter physical danger. Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City were the kind of places where both men and women could walk at night without fear of physical harm. In 2008, that sense of personal safety was crushed. A British journalist walking home by herself in Saigon’s District 3 was stabbed. She survived and the wound, which pierced her stomach, didn’t get infected. She was lucky. But it was a sign of times to come. Since then stories have entered the press of women having bags snatched with their arms cut off in the process. A taxi driver was murdered this year by his two female customers after an argument over the fare. And the girlfriend of an acquaintance died in a motorbike accident after her bag was snatched and the bike crashed. Her boyfriend survived, she didn’t.

After Dark The latest concerns for physical safety have come in the West Lake area of Hanoi. Last month this post appeared on the

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Facebook Group, Hanoi Massive - A New Era. “Take care around West Lake after dark,” wrote the poster. “I had to intervene in what I believe would have been the sexual assault of a foreign woman walking on the lake road near Red River Tearoom (from where she was leaving) at around 9.30pm last night. A Vietnamese guy on a motorbike (red helmet) was harassing her and had to be chased several times before he left the scene. If you’re on your own, stick to well-lit, busy streets or grab a taxi. Take care and be safe!” This is not an isolated incident. One person responded: “There used to be a guy on a Honda Dream with no plates buzzing around Tay Ho groping women at night. He was doing it on and off for years. A few people nearly caught him but he always got away.” A woman added her personal experience. “This is my story! Exactly!!” she wrote. “It happened to me half a year ago. West Lake. It was not late, maybe about 10pm. The street was illuminated well. But I wasn’t shy. I kicked him when he stopped behind me. I was fighting with him, and I won. Then several fishermen pulled me away from him and called the police.”

On the Prowl Two days later another incident occurred, this time close to HRC. The woman affected posted on the Facebook group, Hanoi Girl Gone International. Driving home, a Vietnamese man tried to grab her off her motorbike, causing her to crash. When she came off the bike he chased her down the road. She got away. The man was lying in

wait for someone to come along. Around the same time another expat woman was attacked and beaten senseless by three men outside Sidewalk before being taken advantage of. The victim reported the incident to the US Embassy whose security team got involved. However, her experience at the French Hospital was terrible. “[They] brushed it off to the side and took no DNA evidence, nor tested my blood for drugs.” We have also heard that last month a 17-year-old schoolgirl was assaulted in the same area.

Take Action Vietnam’s big cities are no longer safe, and women need to take care at night, especially if they are alone. That’s common sense, but it’s important. Action needs to be taken. When the journalist was stabbed, the man was caught and went to prison. When the woman had her arm cut off on Phu My Bridge in Saigon, the group that carried out the attack was executed as a lesson to others. There is obviously at least one man prowling the West Lake area of Hanoi as well as one or two other groups of men searching out victims. Take care. They need to be caught. If you see them, get the police. Report them. If possible, write down their licence plate number. If you see someone in need, and you are able to help, do so. Don’t turn a blind eye. Until these people are caught, the attacks will continue. The physical safety of women is at stake here and it needs to be protected. — Nick Ross

Big5

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY QUEST

The

Festivals, live music, experimental theatre and a music. The top events this month in Vietnam

Quest comes to Ba Vi on the weekend on Nov. 4

At the end of this month, Stephen Carlin will be the latest international comic to perform in Vietnam

Quest Festival

Secret Garden

Son Tinh Camp, Ba Vi Nov. 4 to Nov. 6

Soul Convention Complex, Q3 Nov. 4, 5, 6, 11 and 12

Quest Festival is bigger and better this year with a diverse programme of over 100 acts including musicians, DJs, artists, performers, workshops, film features and art installations over multiple venues. Vietnam’s answer to Burning Man and Glastonbury rolled into one, but in the mountains of Northern Vietnam, Quest has garnered itself a huge following over the past three years. Go there and you’ll understand why. It’s a little bit special! For more information or to book tickets, click on questfestival.net or ticketbox.vn/quest-festival/en. And to see a feature article on setting up the festival, turn to page 64

Many famous musicals have had long runs on Broadway and in the West End, and one of them is The Secret Garden. This month it will be performed at the Soul Convention Complex in Saigon. Telling the story of an orphan, Mary Lennox, who is sent to live with her embittered, reclusive uncle Archibald and her cousin Colin, her own personality blossoms as she and a young gardener bring new life to a magical garden which beckons the children with haunting melodies. The Soul Convention Complex is at 214-216 Pasteur, Q3, HCMC. For ticketing click on bit.ly/secretgarden-vn or see our article on page 36

Von Wegen Lisbeth Tour Hanoi, Hue, Danang and HCMC Nov. 4, 9, 10 and 13

Hip German indie outfit Von Wegen Lisbeth tour Vietnam this month with shows in Hanoi (Nov. 4), Danang (Nov. 9), Hue (Nov. 10) and Ho Chi Minh City (Nov. 13). Supported by the GoetheInstitut, Von Wegen Lisbeth are young and funky, playing lightweight indie pop sounds combined with sharp German lyrics. Entrance to the gigs are free, but you’ll need to book your tickets in advance. For tickets and further info, visit goethe.de/Vietnam. For info on the Hanoi and HCMC shows turn to page 40 and page 48

The International Experimental Theatre Festival 4

Around Hanoi Nov. 12 to Nov. 19

Around 60 plays by artists from over 20 countries will take part in the 3rd International Experimental Theatre Festival, which will be held from in theatres across Hanoi from Nov. 12 to Nov. 19. At the time of writing, details were still unclear, but what we do know is that plays will come from China, Japan, South Korea, Singapore, Hungary, Germany, France and Vietnam. Co-organised by the Vietnam Stage Artists Association and the Performing Art Bureau, the event provides an opportunity for domestic and international artists to exchange experiences and raise their

level of expertise and artistic quality. Apart from the performances, academic discussions on experimental initiatives of performances will take place during the event. The official opening ceremony will take place on Sunday, Nov. 13 at the Hanoi Opera House. There will be two to three performances a day at theatres across the city. For more info on ticketing and performances, keep your eye on the national press. Eventually they’ll let us know what’s going on

Stand-Up with Stephen Carlin Game On Saigon, HCMC and CAMA ATK, Hanoi 5 Nov. 30 and Dec. 1 CAMA ATK and Saigon International Comedy have been collaborating for almost two years now on bringing in professional stand-up comedians to Vietnam. There’s a reason for this — they want to make you laugh. Stand-up comedy is different from the usual run-of-mill performance we see in Vietnam. The next comic to grace our fine shores will be Scottish-born rabble rouser Stephen Carlin. Described by The Guardian as a comedian who is “ready to become at the very least a cult favourite among fans of the sharper end of stand-up”, he comes to Vietnam with a long list of laugha-minute accolades to his name. Wanna see him perform? Well get down to Game On (HCMC) on Nov. 30 or CAMA ATK (Hanoi) on Dec. 1, and watch the show unwind. You’ll laugh your socks off. For more info turn page 42 and page 53

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Briefings National

Casting the Net Finding a sustainable way to save our fishing stock

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ully exploited and over-exploited. This is how tuna stocks in our oceans are now classified. Fully exploited means there’s no more room for fishery expansion. Overexploited means that fish stocks are on the verge of collapse. More than 85 per cent of the world’s fisheries have been pushed to, or beyond, their limit, according to the World Wildlife Fund (WWF). In Vietnam, there are now 2,000 registered vessels fishing for yellowfin tuna in the waters off Binh Dinh, Phu Yen and Khanh Hoa provinces hauling in an estimated 14,000 tons in 2013. A significant reason for this is technology. Because tuna remains among the most valuable fish in our oceans, methods for catching tuna have evolved at a much faster rate than have methods for their conservation and management. However, there are organisations and companies investing resources to come up with solutions before it’s too late, including one in Vietnam.

On the Front Line Enter legal firm Frontier Law & Advisory. They’re behind a competition now under way called the Targeted Innovation Challenge, which requires participants to build on an idea that Frontier has already come up with, to fix the problem of poor handling and preserving of handline tuna. Handline tuna fishing or handlining refers to small-scale fishing where a fisherman on a small boat holds a line in the hand while waiting for fish to take the bait.

“Although we do practice law, our two main focus areas are infrastructure and innovation,” says Marika Vilisaar, Frontier legal specialist and project manager for the challenge. “We’ve worked in various sustainable fishing projects before, including a project in the Philippines where we tried to find an economically viable and environmentally sustainable fishing model for their tuna industry.” The challenge began on Oct. 3 when entrants gained online access to a ‘challenge package’ for 24 hours revealing Frontier’s idea and outlining task requirements. Teams then have eight weeks to innovate on that idea culminating in a Challenge Day in Danang in early December where they will get to pitch their plans to Frontier and key environmental and industry partners. The winners will receive $US1,000, with $US400 as second prize. “If any of the innovations show the promise of being commercially viable, the winning team or teams will have the opportunity to prototype them with Frontier’s guidance and support,” explains Marika.

Attracting Young Talent The Targeted Innovation Challenge has attracted entrants from universities in Ho Chi Minh City, Nha Trang, Danang and Hanoi, including some from the private sector. A total of 25 teams are vying to be shortlisted once their plans have been submitted on Nov. 25. Winners will have to come up with an innovative idea to build on Frontier’s initial scheme for improved onboard handling and

preserving of handline tuna. One key aspect is ease of use. “It’s imperative that innovations are easily deployable by fishermen who typically catch tuna one at a time,” says Marika. “In this way, it will allow them to catch the best quality tuna, avoid down-grading and a loss of value from improper handling techniques.” The contest doesn’t expect entrants to have an intimate knowledge of the tuna fishing industry or know how to catch a fish. In fact, Frontier targeted aspiring innovators from diverse backgrounds such as engineering, refrigeration, refrigeration, data collection, IoT and material science among others.

Danang as an Innovation Hotspot Danang is close to the major tuna fishing ports in Vietnam, but another reason behind why the Challenge Day will be held there is because Frontier is excited by the potential of Vietnam’s third-largest city to become a centre of innovation. “We really like the energy in Danang and we want to see it become an innovation hub. Tuna is fished along the central coast of Vietnam, so it makes perfect sense to do it in Danang,” says Marika. The Targeted Innovation Challenge is about solving a problem that is global and not specific to Vietnam, but nevertheless important. Frontier’s initiative will at last draw positive publicity to the fishing industry in a country that has had to deal with so much negativity in recent times. — Matt Cowan For more info on the competition, click on bit. ly/tic2016

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Briefings National

ith outlets both in Hanoi and in Ho Chi Minh City, the Youth Culture Library is all about bringing rare and interesting literature to a whole new audience. “We’re not trying to exclude anyone,” says co-founder Tom Sanders. “We are trying to figure out a way to get the collection into people’s hands — it deserves to be seen and read.” The Youth Culture Library story began in a Saigon flat, with two literary enthusiasts and a ticket to Hanoi. Co-founders Ed Weinberg and Tom Sanders met shortly before Ed moved cities, and the two became friends. “He had this wonderful collection of zines and other literature, and he hated to leave it sitting around in boxes,” Tom says. “Ed told me about his idea for a library. I was so excited — it was exactly the kind of

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The Library Bringing reading culture to Vietnam’s youth

worthwhile project I was looking for.”

The Conception According to Tom, Ed already had the Youth Culture Library concept almost ready to launch when they met. “Ed had all the contacts, the collection, even some artwork ready to work with,” says Tom. “He just hadn’t taken the final steps.” Now up and running, the Youth Culture Library is going from strength to strength as more people discover it. “So far we’ve held events at Piu Piu, Chao Gallery and at M2C cafe,” says Tom. “We’ve hosted collaborative writing, comic jams, poetry performances, and so many lovely, talented people here have given their time and creativity to help us define our distinct aesthetic.” The Library is catalogued and collated online, with a Youth Culture Library sticker on

every spine. “Ed had a Youth Culture Library stamp handmade in Hong Kong,” Tom says. “So we’ve stamped every book too.” The collection comprises a vibrant mix of zines, black and white punk, graphic novels, serialised graphic novels, hardback printed books, doodles and arts books. People are free to read the materials on site, but aren’t allowed to take them home. The Youth Culture Library is displayed in three different places — Chao Art Hostel and M2C cafe in Ho Chi Minh City, and from next month, Ed’s collection in Hanoi. “We choose our spaces and allocate our collection to those spaces carefully,” says Tom. “Different people engage with different literature, different art, different atmospheres, so we organise the collection to fit in with every venue and with the people who would hang out there.”

PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

The Concept A free collection, the Youth Culture Library has no other aim than to share contemporary literature with Vietnam. This includes a range of literature such as works on sustainable design, a photography library and a travel library. One of the major components of the collection is the zine. The zine medium is known for being broad, more like a visual artform than a set literary genre, which makes it accessible to a wide range of people. “Anyone can write or read a zine, and each zine is different,” Tom explains. “They make no attempt to contextualise anything for the reader — you just pick it up and start turning. Something will grab your attention and then, in that moment, you will engage with it.” Despite this, there is no escaping the fact that zine culture comes from a punk and DIY

aesthetic. One of the biggest challenges the library faces is finding that thin line between zine culture and Vietnamese social norms. “The idea behind zine as an artform is something we are determined to hold onto,” Tom says. “At the same time we want to make it accessible to everyone.” Tom and Ed see the Youth Culture Library as a way to encourage creativity, but also as a way of encouraging a Vietnamese audience to interact more with the English language. “One great thing about this project is how it gets young people engaging with English through art,” says Tom. “We want to share our collection with Vietnamese students who wouldn’t see this kind of stuff otherwise.”

The Future Recently launched, the Youth Culture Library is at the beginning of its journey. “Our first

objective is to keep sourcing interesting, varied spaces to curate our collection,” Tom says. Working with designer Joseph Laity who will do all the visuals, the two co-founders will also be running a number of workshops in each venue, designed to encourage engagement with the collection. “We want to reach a real wide range of people,” Tom says. “At the end of the day the library is and always will be free, and any money we make from workshops goes straight back into growing the project.” — Zoe Osborne The collections are at Chao Downtown, 121/61 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, HCMC and M2C, 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, HCMC. At the end of this month the main collection will move to Saigon Outcast, 188 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC. Hanoi’s library will be opening in December. For more information click on facebook.com/youthculturelibrary

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Briefings Hanoi

Hanoi International Women’s Club 25 years young and going strong

“I

t’s hard to get away from this idea that we’re all ladies who lunch,” says Gill Lever, President of the Hanoi International Women’s Club (HIWC) since May 2015. She remembers first arriving in Hanoi as the wife of British ambassador Giles Lever, and being taken to the club’s biggest charity event by a friend. “I was dragged kicking and screaming to the Annual Charity Bazaar. I didn’t want people thinking that because I’m married to an ambassador, I’ll turn up with my scone kit and go out to all the bazaars. But I realised it’s this amazing event.” The bazaar has been put on by HIWC volunteers for 25 years, and since 2005, the club has raised over US$1.1 million for charities in Vietnam. It supports everything from education and assistance for families of autistic children, to child healthcare and corrective surgery, to sexual and reproductive health for disabled women, to micro-financing for ethnic minority women.

An Inspiration In October, the club hosted its 9th Vision Award for Inspiring Women, recognising Dr. Khuat Thi Hai Oanh for her work as Director of the Centre for Supporting Community Development Initiatives, an organisation that works to improve the lives of sex workers, drug users, and people living with HIV. “We’re trying to inspire our own members and friends with examples of women who have triumphed over some quite serious obstacles.” Women such as last year’s Vision Award winner, Nguyen Thi Thu Thuong, who has battled Brittle Bone disease from birth. In 2014, she used 10 years of her own savings to open Thuong Thuong Vocational Centre, a training resource where others living with disabilities can learn skills for employment.

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Support Network Besides their efforts to enrich the lives of Vietnamese women, the club acts as a strong support network for expats. “It’s difficult when you come to a new country,” Gill says. “We’re very much about supporting people who are new in town, providing a source of friendship, advice, and helping people get the best out of Hanoi. What we’re talking about is giving them selfconfidence and know-how.” To do that, HIWC has launched a new website with an extensive list of frequently asked questions, from finding a house to paying bills to setting up a bank account. Once a month, the club hosts a coffee morning, where members new and old (and nonmembers, too) can network, exchange, and support each other. There are also “night owl” meet-ups, for working women with full daytime schedules.

Diversity The club, which officially began in 1991, now boasts around 70 nationalities and close to 450 members. “I’ve done quite a lot of work over the last 18 months making our board look more diverse,” Gill says. “I think we’ve got about eight or nine different languages on the board now, and four or five nationalities.” Though it is very much a women’s club, there are 10 men involved, and Gill isn’t opposed to putting one on the board, too. “My own professional experience is that it’s better if you have a mixed gender dynamic… times are changing, and we’ve made it clear that we welcome men.” “But, do men join women’s clubs?” she asks. “They’ve always had their own.” — Jesse Meadows The HIWC Bazaar takes place on Nov. 27 at St Paul American School. For more info click on hanoi-iwc.com/annual-charity-bazaar or turn to page 53. For more info on HIWC click on hanoiiwc.com

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

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Briefings HCMC

*9999

Remember this number. It could save your life

ow many of you know the number for the ambulance service in Vietnam? A quick guess — not many. It is 115. And if you are in need of emergency medical treatment, you’re likely to get a taxi to the nearest hospital, go to FV’s accident and emergency department, or call a service like Family Medical Practice or International SOS. Enter Dr. Rafi Kot, the driving force behind Family Medical Practice, the first foreign medical practice in Vietnam, and the person who last month launched his EMR *9999 Emergency Response Service. Based on the ProQA software developed by the American company, Priority Dispatch, which is used by the 911 service in the US and in 52 countries around the world, Rafi has set up an emergency response centre and bought a fleet of ambulances where medical team are able to work on patients inside the vehicle. People call Star 9999 in an emergency and get through to an operator called an emergency medical dispatcher. The dispatcher uses the software to ask questions of the caller, and through the use of the

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ProQA software system, it is determined whether an ambulance needs to be sent. Within 30 to 40 seconds of the call starting, if transport is needed an ambulance team will start getting ready to deal with the emergency. In the meantime, the dispatcher stays on the phone, helping the patient or the caller to ensure that any immediate medical needs can be taken care of while waiting for the ambulance to arrive.

A Numbers Game

Dr. Rafi Kot

According to Rafi, the key to making this system work is the phone number; star on the keypad followed by the digits 9999. “I’ve been harbouring this [idea] for a long time,” he explains. “It started from land medics and I understood that we need to have a strong land logistical response. Strong in terms of far-reaching, quick and something we can work with. So I decided to do a 115 service.” The catalyst, however, was the discovery that a telecommunications company in Vietnam had started a star phone service. “So I bought all the nines — every nine that exists, I have it.”

Rafi’s next step was to get feedback. During visits to four schools — two Vietnamese and two international — he asked the kids which number they would remember. Their response? *9999. “You can’t have an ambulance number which is, you know, 08 117 68 654 and so on. The star service is the accelerator of this [project].” He then started creating an emergency response centre. Out of over 1,000 applicants who applied to work in the centre, they ended up with eight people. The International Academies of Emergency Dispatch came over to Vietnam to provide training. Finally came the business model. “We decided that US$25 per person, per year is a price that people can afford,” says Rafi.

member, the cost of using the service starts at US$80 during office hours and US$180 after hours. If you’re in non-covered areas, prices start at US$346, and in all cases, payment will be dealt with after the emergency is over. Rafi’s goal over the next two years is to have 300,000 members. “It’s ambitious and we won’t reach it,” he says. “But for now I’m happy it’s only a thousand as it gives us time to refine, fine-tune and make sure we consider all eventualities. This is an operation that once

you begin, you can’t stop.” He adds: “The whole operation depends on the number and people knowing the number and remembering it.” Which means lots of publicity. And ensuring that everyone in Ho Chi Minh City remembers these digits — *9999. The EMR *9999 service operates in Districts 1, 2, 3, Phu Nhuan and parts of Binh Thanh. A new district will be added to the service every four months. To sign up call 0932 776971 or click on star9999.vn

Membership Since its launch on Oct. 1, the service has gained over 1,000 subscribers. Numbers are rising fast. There are no family or business memberships — in an emergency it takes too long to go through lists to check who’s included and who’s not. Instead, membership is on a name only basis. And if you’re not a

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Briefings National

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Saigon Ink

PHOTOS BY MIKE PALUMBO

Will tattoo parlours be the next nail shops? If Danis Nguyen has anything to do with it, they might well be

t 21, Danis Nguyen stepped off the overnight bus from Nha Trang to Ho Chi Minh City with just the clothes on his back, enough money for two months rent, and a dream. By the time he was 27, he’d opened his first tattoo studio, called Saigon Ink. Now almost 40, Danis’ path to success has never been laid out for him. He knew for certain at 12 he wanted to be an artist of some kind taking drawing and painting classes and gaining inspiration from the beachside environment of his hometown. But it wasn’t until he was 16 that his interest in tattoos emerged. “I saw Guns N’ Roses for the first time and I saw a photo of Slash who had a lot of tattoos,” Danis recalls. “I loved them from then on and I started doing some research. That’s when I knew I wanted to come to Ho Chi Minh City to learn more about art and tattooing.” Over time, Danis gained confidence in his tattooing ability thanks to hours of practice on his friends. Eventually he’d put together enough money through various jobs and opened Saigon Ink in District 10. Back then, around 2005, the prevailing perception of tattoos was that they were for gangsters. Authorities were quick to act on anyone tattooing, forcing the culture deeper underground.

Oversees “Things have changed a lot since then,” says Danis. “I like to think that I’m someone who has changed the image of tattoos in Vietnamese society by encouraging others to

look at it as art.” He now oversees a business which has 11 artists tattooing full-time, including the four days per week he tattoos, but still finds the time to sit down and chat about his life. There’s a calmness about him despite his preoccupation with everything going on around him. “I meditate and do yoga as a way to detox,” he says. “I’ve been to Nepal and India to study Buddhism, so I’m quite spiritual. It helps me to re-energise.” Around the time of his travels, Danis stopped tattooing. In his words he “did nothing” for two years except learn how to meditate while he figured out what he was going to do in the next stage of his life. Eventually he found his way and threw himself straight back into his work. And it’s paid off.

State of the Art So respected in his profession has Danis become, he was recently included in The World Atlas of Tattoo as one of 100 contemporary practitioners highlighted as examples of the state of tattooing today. Written by Anna Felicity Freedman, an American tattoo history and culture scholar, The World Atlas of Tattoo is a blend of historical and cultural overviews of tattooing in different regions of the world. One of Anna’s goals for the book was to represent a wide array of artists, including some from places one wouldn’t expect to find extensive tattooing. While researching artists from Southeast Asia, she came across Danis and was “blown away by his work.”

“I found he was doing large-scale work at a high level of precision and artistry,” says Anna. “He was working in a variety of different styles that reflected global tattoo culture awareness and experimentation.” In order to confirm what she thought about Danis’ work, Anna contacted a friend of Vietnamese heritage who travels to Vietnam regularly to see if she might be able to recommend someone. “She suggested Danis, so that confirmed my search,” says Anna.

Overseas Saigon Ink attracts both foreign and local clients, but perhaps the most surprising demographic is the growing number of Australians coming here specifically for Danis’ work. “They find me online and fly in and fly out to get my tattoos,” says Danis. “Around 30% of my clients are from Australia.” As a result of the interest from Australians, who Danis says are looking for authentic Asian-style tattoos, he is exploring the prospect of opening a Saigon Ink studio in either Sydney or Melbourne. Although he’s reluctant to discuss details, Danis says it’s potentially where part of the future of Saigon Ink lies. Could this be the dawn of a new Vietnamese export to rival the success of Vietnamese nail salons in the West? Danis is circumspect in his response. “I have a dream, but I don’t hope about that. I stopped thinking that way years ago. I just think about now because the future never comes.” — Matt Cowan

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Briefings Hanoi

The Hidden Houses of Hanoi One woman’s search into Hanoi’s glorious past. Photos by Julie Vola

“A

s a child, I wanted to be a ballerina, an astronaut, a vet, but I never wanted to be a writer. It demands too much concentration and revision. So my first challenge was the writing itself,” says Linda Mazur. She’s just released her first book, Hidden Houses of Hanoi, a guide to the art-deco houses near Thien Quang Lake where artists, intellectuals and mandarins lived in the 1930s.

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“I fell into this project through the generosity of hundreds of people,” she says. “One thing led to another. Just as I was ready to call it a day, someone entered my life with new information or an introduction to someone who held the key to one piece of the puzzle.” Linda became enamoured with this style of architecture because of its understated design, clean lines, and simple geometry, which act as an antithesis to Hanoi’s

chaos. Over eight years, she studied the neighbourhood, getting to know its longtime residents and recording their stories.

Beyond the Gates “Helpful people pop up in the most incongruous places, like the sculptor Cao Thi Thanh Tha, who watched me dodging traffic trying to get a clear photo of 42 Trang Thi, the home of the first Vietnamese architectural offices of Luyen, Tiep and

Duc. After seeing my mock-up book, she took charge and cajoled the current owner, Nguyen Tien Vo, into opening the gate and giving me a grand tour of his home.” Linda explored homes like 59 Nguyen Du, the home of mandarin Vi Van Dinh, whose family ruled Lang Son for 13 generations. Over the years, it was used as a guest house for visiting dignitaries, a ballroom for elite parties, and the office of the weekly Communist publication, Hoc Tap. She spent time studying entire streets like Nguyen Thuong Hien, nearly hit by a bomb that landed in Thien Quang Lake during the American bombings of Christmas 1972. The street was home to the famous painter Le Pho, the composer of Vietnam’s national anthem, Nguyen Van Cao, and Tran Van Can, who painted Vietnam’s ‘Mona Lisa’, Em Thuy. “The houses in the book are special,” says Linda. “Most were designed by Vietnamese architects for Vietnamese families in a style which was au courant,

an indication of the desire to be seen as modern.”

Preservation Preserving these structures is a struggle. The law only protects temples, pagodas, communal houses and French colonial designs. Fortunately many historic houses are now being protected by private interests as nostalgia grows. Linda hopes her book can raise awareness and fan the flames of preservation — in the back she has included a map that can be used for personal walking tours of the area. “Their stories need to be told as a small window into the life of Hanoi during the 1930s and 1940s,” she explains. “It was a time when different factions in society began to voice their ideas, when literacy rates grew, when it was easy to connect to the international community.” — Jesse Meadows The Hidden Houses of Hanoi is available at bookshops throughout Vietnam and can also be found at Hanoi Social Club and Bookworm

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Briefings Hanoi

Helping the Most Isolated Learn Project Sprouts is helping schools in one of Vietnam’s remotest and poorest provinces

he mountainous province of Son La is among Vietnam’s most beautiful. South of Sapa and next to the Laotian border, Son La’s peaks are the easternmost extension of the Himalayas. Largely untouched by the bustling development only a few hundred kilometres away in Hanoi, the clocks move slowly in Son La. Unlike neighbouring Sapa, tourism is non-existent. Son La’s isolation has made it among the poorest regions of Vietnam. With a 2015 poverty rate of 29.4 percent according to government statistics (the national average is 9.8 percent), the ethnic minorities who inhabit the mountains grow corn for pig feed in rocky soil up the slopes for as little as US$15 a month.

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Basic services are lacking, with many local Muong and Black Tai locals unable to speak Vietnamese. Apart from agriculture, the local economy is mostly non-existent.

Support While the area has had some basic support — such as doctor visits — from a nearby Australian-owned aluminium mine, the mineral resources have been depleted and the company is closing shop. “What was once bad will become much worse,” says Anita Hummel, founder of the charity Project Sprouts, which distributes school supplies in the area. Since 2014, Hummel and her team have made regular visits to the remote communities of Vietnam’s far northwest in Son La with supplies

for a community left behind by the nation’s fast growth. Their main donations are supplies for the state schools. While the schools theoretically take students through the national curriculum, resources are slim for teachers and students alike. “A teacher will get something like one pack of pens, one ream of paper, one box of chalk for the whole year,” says Hummel. Nada Louw, president of Sprouts, said the schools were little more than a hollow building. She recalled one school that had 175 students but no toilet.

Harsh These students, however, are the lucky ones as many don’t have the chance to study. Separated from

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY PROJECT SPROUTS

the state safety net provided at the schools, the ones not at school are the hardest to reach. Hummel said Sprouts does their best to give these children warm clothing for the harsh winters in the mountains. She recalled one time she was temporarily forced to turn away a group of siblings who tried to get blankets with the students. “The kids were lining up there in the cold shivering with just flipflops on… but we only had enough blankets for the kids in school,” says Hummel. After finding the children some blankets, Hummel asked the girl leading the children where they had come from. “One little girl walked 25km from her home town, with her little brother on her back. She had to leave school

at age nine years old to help her parents out in the fields, and she said every day she dreams of going to school,” says Hummel. Working with limited resources, Offner says they did their best to at least supply the schools while helping other children as far as they were able. “We’re going to help the kids, we know we can at least help the ones in school, and if we can help some of the others, we will,” she says.

Drive Sprouts relies on donations from Hanoi — they are currently trying to collect 750 jackets in a drive. All clothing items are accepted, with what they can’t donate being sold on the streets to raise funds. Time and energy is also accepted,

with volunteers with knitting skills encouraged to make winter hats. “It’s not just money we’re looking for. If they don’t have the money they can use their skills,” explains Offner. “Some people have time, some people have skills, and some people have money,” she says. Trips, however, will become increasingly difficult. With the mine closed, the volunteers won’t be able to sleep in the mine facilities, and roads will fall into disrepair, leaving the communities more isolated than ever. More crucially, the villages have now lost all their non-farming jobs. “Life was getting better, now it’s all being taken away,” says Offner. — Bennett Murray For more info on how you can get involved, click on project-sprouts.com

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Briefings HCMC

PHOTO FRED WISSINK 26 | WordBYNovember 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Read for Life A literacy programme that’s producing results

n a world where reading is less popular among children and young adults than it was in the past, and where people tend to read in short bursts rather than over long, extended periods, Rae Lang, the deputy principal of International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP), is going against the grain. An adherent to the idea that reading enhances critical thinking, with the support of her school she is driving a new literacy programme designed to improve the reading skills of her pupils. Rae explains the idea. “Reading is the key that unlocks knowledge,” she says. “Reading gives access to information, it gives access to entertainment. Reading is an enjoyment, is a passion. It is the way to unlock your interest.” Through reading and getting a deeper understanding of the book, she explains, kids learn to ‘read between the lines’ and ask whether what has been written is accurate, and whether it actually makes sense. This helps them with their critical thinking skills. She uses news reports in the media as an example. “Sometimes in the media, things come across [and we have to decide] if we buy into it or stop and think about what was said,” she explains. “Does that fit into my schema? What other research do I need to do? What do I need to find out?” Reading critically helps us decipher what is correct and what isn’t.

Reading the ISSP Way The reading programme started during the last academic year with the school obtaining some baseline data about their kids. “We found that 65 percent of our kids were achieving either at or above expected reading levels comparable to the US system,” she explains. “So we asked ourselves, how can we improve our student achievement and make reading a success for all our children?” The first step has been teacher training. At the beginning of the academic year, ISSP held a week’s orientation for their teachers and since then have continued with the in-house professional development. “We’ve looked at different reading approaches, what reading should feel and sound like in the classroom, and how we can make it better.” The school has also hired a literacy expert from New Zealand who will spend two days at the school later in the year and create an action plan. The collaboration has already

started, so by the time she arrives her work will be focused on ISSP’s particular needs and the next steps in developing a robust reading programme. Another step is to get parents to buy into the school’s vision. “Sometimes there are cultural difficulties in getting our message across with regards to what the parents want for their children,” says Rae. “So it’s about building that bridge so that we’ve all got a common understanding. We feel there’s a partnership and that we all need to be heading in the same direction.” ISSP has achieved this by organising and continuing to organise reading-related activities that involve both the children and the parents. This includes a book fair, reading picnics, a reading day where all the kids come to school in pyjamas, coffee mornings with parents and ‘A Million Page Challenge’, where the school as a whole will attempt to read a million pages by the end of year. The final goal is to embed the programme into the school’s culture. With international school teachers often working on two-year contracts before moving on, it’s important that when new teachers arrive, they know how the reading programme works at ISSP.

Guided Reading Children read and learn at different speeds, and when you have a class of 20 children, all with different abilities and reading levels, how do you ensure that every child has the ability to improve their reading level? ISSP’s answer is guided reading, a strategy which helps improve both the class as a whole and the class as individuals. The children are divided into groups of four, five or six, each with the same need. The teacher will focus on that particular group while the rest of the class is working on reading-related activities. Once the teacher is finished with that particular group, they will move on to the next group. “By doing guided reading, [the teacher] is catering for different ability groups within the class,” says Rae. But, it requires being flexible, because “at the heart of it is the child, and the child comes first.” She adds: “We strongly believe that guided reading is the bridge to independent reading.” — Nick Ross For more information on ISSP and their reading programme, join their Open House on Wednesday, Nov. 16 by clicking issp.edu.vn/ reading

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Charity of

the Month

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Sao Mai

Providing vocational training in Belgium for those most in need

avier Mouffe never quite realized his dream of running his own bakery business, but he found the next best thing — helping disadvantaged teenagers and young adults from Vietnam learn the bakery trade in his home country of Belgium. It was 2001 by the time that the first Vietnamese street boy, Cong, made it to Brussels; he stayed on the Sao Mai (Morning Star) programme for three years. He spent his time in Belgium studying French, working hard dealing with the cultural differences, learning his trade and living frugally in order to send the majority of his wages back to Vietnam for his family. “[Cong’s] positivity is what encouraged me to continue finding more students for the apprenticeship,” says Xavier. Sao Mai is an intense course in life skills and a built-in family with Xavier and Serge Goossens, the patron and mentor in Belgium. It is difficult to obtain more than one visa to Belgium from Vietnam for this programme per year, and so the people behind Sao Mai take great care to ensure that they choose the best potential students for the job.

Speculation “We can’t accept everyone, so we must ask around,” continues Xavier. “Obviously we want to help [teenagers and young adults] who are struggling, but we can’t let this opportunity go to waste.”

The Sao Mai team also spends a lot of time fundraising by selling artworks from Vietnam and Asian flavour-inspired speculoos, dubbed speculoos zen, at Christmas time in Belgium, to cover the costs for the students and guarantee them a successful experience. Xavier comes to Vietnam twice a year to see his “kids”, making sure that everything is okay with them. Nang Nguyen Manh, 32, is one of the graduates from Sao Mai, having studied in Belgium from 2008 to 2011. He is now the owner of Goossens Ice Cream Shop in Go Vap, named after his benefactor. Manh proudly admits the influence Serge had upon his life. “He is a military man with a tough work ethic, but he was patient as well,” he says. Returning to Vietnam in 2011 still presented its challenges, and at first Manh worked in Metro, then took a job working for HaagenDazs developing their moon cakes and other baked products. Even with the help from Sao Mai, he still needed a lot of tenacity to get to the position he is in today.

Launch Pad That is what the baking apprenticeship offers on the surface; the ability for the students to cook, create and feed themselves and others. The three tough years also sees the boys developing skills they may not have normally had access to; foreign languages, leadership and intense dedication. “I give them the first step,” says Xavier,

“but it is up to them to endure the challenges they will face in Belgium.” Most boys are eager to return home, and that is the point of the programme — not to absorb the boys into Belgium and European culture, but to allow them to immerse themselves in an intensive vocational and linguistic education and come back to Vietnam with valuable life skills. It’s not easy — many of the past students have struggled with homesickness, language issues, and adjusting to the colder climate of Northern Europe. But every student has left the course and returned to Vietnam with initiative, business savvy and gratitude. However, it hasn’t all been plain baking, so to speak. One student arrived and stayed in Belgium for a time only to realise that he had no passion for the trade, and wanted to return home to become a hairdresser instead. But the seven successful boys Xavier is proud of will not be his last, and the Sao Mai team are currently looking to take on another apprentice in Belgium. The next student, before leaving Vietnam, will have to complete two months training with some of the past Sao Mai graduates to test their dedication and skill, a sign that the programme is developing as time goes by. “After everything I have been through,” says Manh, “it’s my duty to teach others, [but only] if they want to learn.” — Siân Kavanagh To find out more about Sao Mai, or how you can help, please visit sao-mai.be

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Briefings HCMC

Saigon Soul As rainy season turns to dry, enter the pool parties

magine a poolside in the centre of the city in a five-star hotel. Fill it with DJs, a bar and between 500 and 800 revellers on a Saturday afternoon, pump the place with house music and then watch the pool party take off into the night. That’s what Saigon Soul Parties have been doing for the past three years at the New World Hotel. Running every week in the dry season from November through to May, they’ve become a fixture on the local party scene. This year’s season will be no different. It started in Taipei, Taiwan back in 2007 with the Havana Pool Parties founded by Saigon Soul organiser Dallas Waines. In search of a new challenge, four years ago Dallas moved to Saigon. “I started looking for venues shortly after arriving in Vietnam,” he explains. “I wanted to create a regular place for fun people to get together to enjoy great house music with affordable drinks around a pool setting. After [convincing] the New World Saigon Hotel it was a good idea, the Saigon Soul Pool Party series was born.”

Something for Everyone Saigon has always had an issue with expats mixing with locals, and locals being comfortable in a beach-like environment. Dallas is aware of this — in particular a

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Vietnamese aversion to strong sun, and differing tastes in music. As time has gone on, his parties have transcended this divide. “Each week brings in a nice mix of Vietnamese, expats and travellers from all walks of life,” he says. “Currently it’s 40% Vietnamese and 60% foreign with a goal of bringing in more Vietnamese. As more locals [come to the parties] they are becoming more accepting of our outdoor, fun-in-the-sun, house music-fuelled event.” Yet, he admits, music has been a problem. And with each event having DJs spinning house, deep house, funky house and techno, it hasn’t always been to Vietnamese tastes. “The Vietnamese aren’t quite used to it yet,” he explains. “But they are slowly coming around to our sound. Last season we introduced a once a month Hip Hop Day and plan on doing that again.” Success, though, breeds success and towards the end of last season, numbers were up, with the closing fiesta last May one of the most heavily attended events of the year. The parties have even avoided a full washout, although when they have had rain, it’s started late afternoon and everyone has stayed and partied on.

Body Beautiful? For many the concept of pool parties can be

off-putting. The idea of body beautiful and prancing around in swimming attire can make them uncomfortable. According to Dallas, this hasn’t been an issue. “We have guests in all shapes and sizes,” he explains. “We work hard to create an open and inviting atmosphere for everyone. We do not have a dress code, so people can wear whatever they feel comfortable in.” The key, he says, is that the events are chilled, affordable and the crowd is always friendly. Plus, the music has to be good. This leads to an “amazing party atmosphere,” according to Dallas. This is why partygoers have been coming back again and again. Another key component is choice. “Our venue has a lot of shade for people looking to stay out of the sun, a shallow end for the novice swimmers, in and out event access, towel rentals, lockers and no dress code. Our bar can accommodate those on a budget, to the ones looking to splash out on bottles of champagne and our five VIP cabanas.” — Nick Ross The new season kicks off on Saturday, Nov. 26 and runs every Saturday until May 20. Entrance is VND150,000, drinks start at VND50,000 and the party pumps from 10am to 10pm. For info on DJ line-ups, special events and more click on saigonsoul.com

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Briefings HCMC

The Winners

Vietnam’s largest amateur golf tournament came to Saigon last month

espite the heavy rain, golf enthusiasts still came in their droves to take part in the New World Hotel’s fifth annual Golf Cup on Oct. 22 at Tan Son Nhat Golf Course. While no-one managed to grab the ultimate prize, a brand new MercedesBenz, this year saw Dang Quang Duc hit a hole in one, the first such feat in the tournament’s history. Duc had more success, too, winning both a runner up prize for the whole tournament and the lucky draw. Quite a day. The three other top prizes went to Ko Dae Won, Kim Jae Hong and Seo Seong Man. The New World Hotel also granted prizes for the longest drive, the straightest drive, and the person shooting the ball off the fairway nearest the pin. Here is the list of winners: Dang Quang Duc — Hole In One Hirofumi Shiramatsu — Nearest pin 8C Ryuta Aizawa — Nearest pin 5D Edmund Ng — Nearest pin 8D Marc Acorda — Longest drive 1D Joey Sarroza — Longest drive 2C Yuichi Yamashita — Straight drive 1C The New World Hotel Cup is an annual tournament that is part of the Mercedes-Benz Trophy, a worldwide tournament run in 60 countries with the participation of 60,000 amateur golfers. New World Saigon Hotel is at 76 Le Loi, Q1, HCMC. For more info email oanh. nguyen@newworldhotels.com

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Sports Digest

She Will Be Strong Empowering women through sport. Words by Harry Hodge. Photo by Bao Zoan

Sport in Brief Aussie Claims Vietnam Open Title No 4 seed Jordan Thompson won the Vietnam Open tennis tournament last month in Ho Chi Minh City, according to Vietnam News. The Australian came from behind to defeat Japanese rival Go Soeda, who was seeded No 6, 5-7, 7-5, 6-1 to take the men’s singles title. Thompson, who was the runner-up last year, enjoyed a US$7,200 payday and 90 points to improving his world ranking.

MMA Centre Launches in Ho Chi Minh City

ga Le has come a long way in the sporting world. And she’s hoping to carve out a path for other Vietnamese women to boost health and fitness here. The 28-year-old from Hue was selected to be the first-ever Vietnamese citizen to participate in the Global Sports Mentoring Program (GSMP). The programme has been running for four years and selects and provides 16 female leaders yearly from all over the world involved in the sports industry to participate in its powerful educational programme. The aim is to inspire, educate and support future women leaders, most of all in sports. It takes place over six weeks in the US, sponsored by ESPN W and The US State Department. “This experience transformed me,” she explains. “It opened up my eyes and mind to the possibilities and potential of how powerful women can be. I understand more about sports and women’s rights, with a strong belief in the mission of empowering women through sports.”

On a Mission Nga returned to Vietnam and founded SHE WILL BE STRONG, geared to create tools for Vietnamese women to be fit in body and mind. Nga and her six-person team have conducted numerous workshops, with the most recent reaching 60 participants. These sessions feature inspiring stories and

organise activities to connect women together and encourage each other for positive lifestyles. The non-profit organisation’s aim is to bring changes to women’s mindsets and routines, and then make the change of every woman’s destiny in a positive way, meaning women will be happier. Right now, they offer free workshops for women under the concept “Discover and Create Your Most Beautiful You.” Workshops focus on concepts like health and fitness, leadership, creativity and taking action. The group is planning to hold more community projects and support education projects in the months and years to come. Yoga and basketball will be launched later this year or early next year. A big-sister mentorship programme has been established as well. “Sports builds confidence and character,” says Nga. “It also builds mental toughness and challenges people to break barriers and overcome challenges.” According to Nga, sports are a part of Vietnam’s education system, but more integration to encourage female participation is needed. “Often, girls shy away from sports more than boys at an early age,” she explains. “Introducing sports in the school system helps provide a platform for cooperation, sacrifice and mutual respect.” Visit shewillbestrong.vn or the group’s Facebook page for more information

The operator of Saigon Sports Club (SSC), a Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) and Cross-Training centre, held an inaugural ceremony in Ho Chi Minh City last month, according to Tuoi Tre. Speaking at the grand opening, Vuong Bich Thang, head of the Vietnam Sports Administration, hoped that the club would attract lots of members and become a playground for sports fans and martial arts followers, according to news website Van Hoa Online (VHO) run by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism. One of the goals of the centre is designing professional training programmes to sharpen the skills of young fighters in Vietnam to prepare them for international competitions like the Olympic Games, the website reported. Covering 7,500 square meters of training area with cuttingedge equipment, the SSC is considered to be Asia’s largest Mixed Martial Arts and CrossTraining centre, according to the sports centre’s website.

Argentine’s Passport Swap Bolsters SHB Danang The SHB Danang team has completed procedures to secure Vietnamese citizenship for Argentina-born striker Gaston Merlo ahead of the next V.League season, according to Vietnam News. The team confirmed to Vietnam News that SHB would strengthen their squad with more foreign players in an effort to win the V.League 1 next year. Merlo was top scorer in the V.League 1 last season with 24 goals, the fourth time he finished

as the league’s top marksman. Director of SHB Danang Sport Stock Company, Bui Xuan Hoa said Merlo wishes to stay in Danang as his family is used to the city after having lived there for several years. He said the team revved up the procedure for him playing in the new football season that begins in early 2017. The Vietnam Football Federation allows each team to play with two foreigners in a match, once Merlo becomes a Vietnamese citizen he will no longer count as a foreign player. The Argentinean striker has scored 92 goals between 2008 and 2016 for SHB. Last week, the team re-signed Brazilian forward Teofilo Soares Eydison, who played his first season for the team in 2016.

Vietnam Bags Medals by the Dozen Vietnam took the top spot at the fifth Asian Beach Games that concluded last month in Danang, however local experts are more concerned than thrilled as it gave little indication about the development of the country’s high performance sports stars, according to Tuoi Tre. Vietnamese athletes bagged 52 gold, 44 silver and 43 bronze medals at the fifth edition of the Asian Beach Games (ABG5), which began on Sep. 24. In comparison, all-time ABG medal count champion Thailand was the runner-up with 36 gold medals, while sports giant China ranked third with 12 golds. The unprecedented achievement of Vietnam’s team was not a cause for celebration however, as many believed it did not reflect an advancement in the country’s high-performance sports. Vietnam sent a total of 320 athletes to compete in 14 sports at ABG5, setting an initial goal of claiming between 18 and 22 gold medals and making it to the top five in terms of medal count.

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ToDo

list HCMC

Exhibitions, a city-wide marathon, comedy, German Indie pop bands and DJs from overseas

Art from the exhibition, Fading Memories

Tre Turner will be on the decks at Observatory on Nov. 4

Fading Memories

Tre Turner

Craig Thomas Gallery, Tran Nhat Duat Gallery, Q1 Until Nov. 15

The Observatory, Q4 Friday, Nov. 4

A solo exhibition of oil paintings by Hanoi-based artist and Vietnam Fine Arts University graduate Nguyen Minh Nam opened last month in Ho Chi Minh City and will continue to run until Tuesday, Nov. 15 at Craig Thomas Gallery’s Tran Nhat Duat space in District 1. Nam’s collection Fading Memories is the latest stanza in his ongoing work celebrating triumph over the inevitable losses suffered by traditional Vietnamese culture at the hands of Vietnam’s headlong rush into modernity. Nam’s paintings portray an intriguing future-present where a class of liberated women are freed from antiquated notions of chastity and roles as mere appendages of men. Fading Memories runs until Tuesday, Nov. 15 at Craig Thomas Gallery, 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, HCMC. For more information, head to cthomasgallery.com

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Glasgow-based DJ and producer Tre Turner (Envy Music, Palais De Danse) brings his powerful, eclectic approach to electronic music to The Observatory on Friday Nov. 4. Moving effortlessly between rare disco, house and techno, Tre will be joined on the night by The Observatory’s co-founder and resident Hibiya Line along with other resident Nic Ford. Starts 9pm. Free before 10pm. VND100,000 after 10pm. For more info, go to facebook.com/ theobservatoryhcmc. The Observatory is located at 5 Ngyuen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Secret Garden Soul Convention Complex, Q3 Nov. 4, 5, 6, 11 and 12 Soul Live Project and Amberstone Media present the musical, The Secret Garden, a community theatre production being performed in Vietnam for the first time ever.

With more than 700 performances on the stages of Broadway (New York, US) and West End (London, UK), The Secret Garden won three Tony Awards. Based on the book by Frances Hodgson Burnett, The Secret Garden tells the story of Mary Lennox, a young English girl born and raised in British Colonial India. Orphaned by a cholera outbreak, Mary is sent away from India to Yorkshire (England) to live with her embittered, reclusive uncle Archibald and her cousin Colin, whom she has never met. Her own personality blossoms as she and a young gardener bring new life to a magical garden which beckons the children with haunting melodies. With the combination of an international and local production team — Director Brian Riedlinger, Orchestra Conductor Ian Alexander, Assistant Director Nguyen Do Anh Tuan —the shows will be performed entirely in English. Secret Garden will be performed at the Soul Convention Complex, 214-216 Pasteur, Q3, HCMC on Nov.

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ToDo

list HCMC

4, Nov. 5, Nov. 11 and Nov. 12 at 7.30pm, with a matinee performance on Sunday, Nov. 6 at 2.30pm. All proceeds will go to Saigon Children’s Charity. For ticketing click on bit.ly/ secretgarden-vn

Balade en France

Last year Balade en France brought in 2,000 people

Work from Bridget March’s latest exhibition, A Window on Vietnam

Nick Faldo will host the Laguna Golf Classic at Laguna Lang Co on the weekend on Nov. 10

Till Von Sein will take over the decks at Heart Beat’s latest event night on Nov. 11

Hotel Equatorial, Q5 Nov. 4 to Nov. 5 The 7th annual French gastronomy fair Balade en France will be held at the Hotel Equatorial in Ho Chi Minh City on Friday, Nov. 4 and Saturday, Nov. 5. Balade en France aims to promote French culture through its gastronomy, wine and entertainment. Based on the success of previous years, organisers are expecting 2,000 people to attend, of whom 80 percent are expected to be Vietnamese. Running from 6pm to 11pm each evening, this year there is the addition of a ‘French Market’ on Saturday, Nov. 5 from 9am to 3pm. The market will give suppliers of French products the opportunity to showcase their cheese, syrup, jam, pate and chocolates to attendees. Entertainment on the night will be provided by French band Gwenilli, with performances from FrenchVietnamese singer Elvis Phuong

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and Beatrice di Carlo. Entrance tickets can be bought at the door for VND250,000 (adults) / VND150,000 (children under 14). However, pre-event tickets cost VND150,000 (adults) / VND80,000 (children under 14). Children under six are free of charge. For more information, contact Steven Nguyen Trong Khoa on fbmanager@hcm.equatorial.com or Nguyen Quoc Dang Thanh on thanh. nguyen@sopexa.com. The Equatorial is at 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, HCMC

A Window on Vietnam VinGallery, Q2 Nov. 4, 18 and 19 A collection that’s been two years in the making explores artist Bridget March’s fascination with windows in urban Vietnam. In all their diversity, these windows have become a significant and re-occurring element within her artworks. A British artist based in Ho Chi Minh City, March draws inspiration from her submersion into Vietnamese culture. She is drawn to the windows in Vietnam because they are often what distinguishes the urban landscape of different regions from each other. Together, these

different windows and the lands, cultures and people they represent collectively make up the character of Vietnam’s streets, and provide insight into its community. The private viewing of A Window on Vietnam will take place on Nov. 4, from 6pm to 8pm. Please RSVP at info@vingallery.com. Bridget will be running two workshops alongside this exhibition — Working with Colour on Nov. 18 from 10am to 12pm, VND250,000, and Mindfulness on Nov. 19, 2pm to 3pm VND150,000. Check the VinGallery Facebook page for more information. VinGallery is at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC

Nick Faldo Laguna Golf Classic Laguna Lang Co, Danang Nov. 10 to Nov. 13 For the second year, golf legend and Laguna Golf brand ambassador Nick Faldo will host the 2016 Laguna Golf Classic at Laguna Golf Lang Co on the central Vietnam coast from Thursday, Nov. 10 to Sunday, Nov. 13. Entrants will compete in men’s and women’s handicap divisions over 36 holes in a stroke-play format. Nick will be on-hand to present prizes as well as to conduct pre-tournament golf clinics and

provide unique insights into his career that netted 41 protournament victories, including three US Masters and three British Open championships. The tournament winner will receive a Banyan Tree Bintan unlimited golf holiday package and family lifetime membership at Laguna Golf Lang Co worth US$30,000. Packages include tournament play with shared caddy and buggy, accommodation, welcome party and gala awards dinner, and cost US$999 (single) US$1,555 (couple). For further information, go to lagunalangco.com/golf or email van. le@lagunalangco.com

Till Von Sein The Observatory, Q4 Friday, Nov. 11

MOVING?

Nascent record label, promoter and community founder Heart Beat continues to enrich the Saigon techno scene with its unique selection of “underground body music”. Joining Heart Beat’s list of big name performances this month in collaboration with Goethe Institut is Till Von Sein, a ball of energy behind the decks and a man of

Call Us

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 39

ToDo

list HCMC

German Indie Pop outfit Von Wegen Lisbeth

The crew behind Giegling return to Observatory

Some of the work that will be on display as part of VinGallery’s annual exhibition, Small Things

Images from last year’s Type Directors Exhibition in Hanoi, a dream for anyone interested in graphic design and typography

many mixes. Expect Till’s classic mix of deep house and techno sounds drenched in a sauce of dub and acid, dirty bass lines and big punchy treblescapes. Switzerland’s own Dj Ouch, founder of the drum and bass crew Insane Drumsounds, will be starting the show, along with Vietnam favourite Chris Wolter and one man live show, EROL. The night kicks off on Friday Nov. 11 from 9pm until late. Entry is free before 11pm and VND150,000 after 11pm. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q1, HCMC

Art Jam November VinSpace, Q2 Friday, Nov. 11 A monthly event, VinSpace’s Art Jam is an evening for creatives who want to come together and enjoy a night of conversation, fun and artistic exchange. A number of activities are available, as well the chance to mingle and meet interesting people. This November, VinSpace will be welcoming a specialised evening of textile-based art. Guests are given three activities to enjoy — block printing, batik and yarn work — with plenty of good beer and good music to get the

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party going. Art Jam will take place on Friday, Nov. 11 from 7pm to 10pm. Tickets are VND199,000 if pre-ordered and VND249,000 on the door. The price includes a free, cold beer on entry, all materials used and entry into the prize draw. VinSpace is at 4-6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC

Von Wegen Lisbeth Ben Thanh Theatre, Q1 Sunday, Nov. 13 Hip German indie outfit Von Wegen Lisbeth tour Vietnam this month — their Ho Chi Minh City show will take place on Sunday, Nov. 13 at Ben Thanh Theatre. Supported by the GoetheInstitut, Von Wegen Lisbeth has been described as young and funky playing lightweight indie pop sounds combined with sharp German lyrics. Von Wegen Lisbeth rose to fame with their cheerful Youtube hit Sushi which poked fun at social media, and which ironically also went viral on Facebook. To date, Sushi has almost 400,000 views on Youtube. For tickets and further info, visit goethe.de/Vietnam. Entrance is free. Ben Thanh Theatre is at 6 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, HCMC. Doors are at 7pm

Giegling Night w/ Ateq and DJ Dustin The Observatory, Q4 Saturday, Nov. 26 After what can only be described as one of the most spectacular performances ever witnessed within The Observatory’s walls last April, the Giegling crew are back to show us how it’s done one more time on Saturday, Nov. 26. This is not to be missed. Starts 9pm. Free before 10pm. VND150,000 after 10pm. For more info, go to facebook.com/ theobservatoryhcmc. The Observatory is located at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Small Things VinGallery, Q2 From Nov. 26 Small Things is an annual collection of artworks chosen from an open call for artists based both nationally and internationally. The works must be no larger than 50cm x 50cm, and only a few of many beautiful submissions are chosen to be displayed. This year promises to be a diverse and exciting display, with a range of creatives displaying works from Vietnam, Indonesia, Malaysia,

Bermuda the UK and the US. Many of the works on display are also for sale, so this is the ideal place to find a special gift for Christmas while supporting emerging artists from your local sphere. The Small Things exhibition will run from the Nov. 26 to Jan 14. VinGallery is at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC

Type Directors Exhibition HCMC Exhibition House, Q1 Nov. 25 to Nov. 29 Goethe-Institut is inviting everyone to join the Type Directors Club exhibition in Ho Chi Minh City from Nov. 25 to Nov. 29. On exhibition will be the most interesting designs the world of script and graphic design has to offer. The annual Type Directors Club competition and the award winner exhibition will present the best typographic works from the whole world. The award is considered one of the most renowned prizes in this field. This year, over 2,000 works from 49 different countries were submitted to the Communication Design and Type Design

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 41

ToDo list HCMC

HCMC gets its first full-scale marathon in 25 years on Jan. 15

Images from last year’s BIS Christmas Bazaar

Scottish comic Stephen Carlin will bring down the house at Game On on Nov. 30

1 competition. There were 397 winners whose works will be presented in eight different exhibitions in the US, Canada, China, England, France, Germany, Japan, Poland, Russia, South Korea, Spain, Taiwan, Thailand and Vietnam. The exhibition is directed especially at professionals and students in the fields of graphic design, advertising, marketing, communications, multimedia, publishing and education, and to everyone else interested in typography and design. The exhibition will be held at HCMC Exhibition House, 27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 and will be open daily from 9am to 6pm

A Night with Stephen Carlin Game On Saigon, Q1 Wednesday, Nov. 30 In an attempt to make you

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laugh, in recent times Saigon International Comedy has been flying in top-notch comics from overseas, and Scottish-born rabble rouser Stephen Carlin will certainly keep the audience in fine laughing fettle. Even the British press are into Carlin. Here’s what they’ve got to say: “So thoughtful you would put your house on him reinventing the knock knock joke... Announcing the arrival of a new comedy original.” — The Herald “Ready to become at the very least a cult favourite among fans of the sharper end of stand-up.” — The Guardian “Fast establishing himself as one of the most distinctive, and funniest, new comedians in Britain.” — Steve Bennett, Chortle Interested? You’d better be. Reckon you can make that

oh-so-long journey to downtown District 1? Damn right you can. And if you do deign to get off your backside to see this show, expect to fall off your seat — in laughter, that is, not because the chair is wonky. Entrance is VND200,000 and includes a free Pasteur Street IPA. Doors are at 8pm and Game On Saigon is at 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, HCMC. To keep yourself posted and ready for some comedic fun, click on facebook. com/saigoninternationalcomedy. And for table bookings, email saigoncomedynights@gmail.com

BIS Christmas BISzaar British International School, Q2 Saturday, Dec. 3 The British International School (BIS) in Ho Chi Minh City will hold it 8th annual Christmas BISzaar on

3 Saturday Dec. 3 from 9am to 3pm. In recent years, BISzaar has attracted over 70 vendors and more than 1,500 visitors sampling great tasting seasonal fare, participating in fun activities, and enjoying Christmas music and carols provided by the school music department. BISzaar is organised to raise funds for charities and humanitarian projects in Vietnam, including for Mai Tam school for HIV-positive children, Thien Phuoc School for disabled children, and Ky Quang Pagoda for orphaned children. BIS raised over VND100million for community service and charities at last year’s BISzaar. And of course, what would Christmas be without the big

man himself? Santa Claus will make an appearance and who knows, he may just have a present or two. BISzaar will take place at BIS’ secondary campus at 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC. For details or more information on how to be a vendor or sponsor of the event, contact BIS Parent Teacher Group at bisptgap2@ gmail.com

The City Marathon Run 2017 Phu My Hung, Q7 Sunday, Jan. 15 The date is set! Ho Chi Minh City’s biggest organised run, The City Marathon, is back in 2017 courtesy of organisers Pulse Active. This year a full distance, 42km, will be launched for the first time in 25

years, together with the staple 5km, 10km and 21km runs. After four years of successful organisation, The City Marathon has become more than just a race; it has become an icon that the citizens of Ho Chi Minh City can be proud of. It attracts a wide demographic, from children, teenagers and entire families to office workers, expats and tourists. There has been a regular annual increase in the number of local Vietnamese participants in the race, and as the race grows in reputation it also grows in size. The marathon warm-up day is on Jan. 14 and the actual race takes place on Jan. 15. Registration fees differ depending on the distance you race — find out more on the course and registration by clicking on hcmcrun.com

Just HCMC

New nightclubs, com tam burgers, City Garden apartments, craft breweries and a new restaurant or four. What’s new this November

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Richie Fawcett from Shri has given the concept of a menu onehelluva lift

American craft beer house, East West Brewing Co., is set to open in mid-December

Be Seen with Envy New nightclub Envy has opened in District 1. Billed as a theatrical nightclub, Envy aspires to be a hotspot showcasing a collaboration of outstanding musical talents along with world-class art and fashion shows, all in one space. The concept is an immersive space with a 12m-high ceiling, fully-equipped with stage, lighting, sound system and an LED wall. With cutting edge technology, handcrafted details and lush layers of fabric and textures with art-deco style influences, the audience will get uninterrupted views of the stage. The entertainment is achieved through a rendezvous of energetic, creative-minded partygoers, music fans and experience seekers in search of innovation in art. Check out the ‘Art of Nightlife’ at Envy, 74-76 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, HCMC, and online at facebook.com/ envyclubsaigon.

There’s a Manual for That UK-born artist, mixologist and general manager of Shri Restaurant and Lounge Richie Fawcett has just released the definitive cocktail manual of Saigon.

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Designed for lovers of cocktails, art, history and Vietnam, the Cocktail Art of Saigon manual is a collection of 41 original cocktail recipes painstakingly created over the last three years. The cocktail recipes are inspired by a combination of modern day street life in Ho Chi Minh City, the history of its streets, and the names associated with them. There are 41 cocktails in the manual paying homage to 41 years of peace since the war’s end. Each cocktail recipe is accompanied by a hand-drawn illustration by Richie himself of what it looks like, together with a pen and ink sketch of the street as it looks today. Included is a taste indicator marking the balance between sour, sweet, umami, bitter and chilli. The Cocktail Art of Saigon manual is available for purchase at Shri restaurant and lounge. For more info, contact Richie directly at richie@shri.vn

Something’s Brewing at East West East West Brewing Co. is about to launch Vietnam’s first American-style craft brewery restaurant on Ly Tu Trong in District 1. Slated to open by

the end of the year, the brewery aims to craft quality beer that everyone can enjoy paired with Asian and Western-style comfort food. With 15 years’ commercial brewing experience in the US city of Portland — touted the craft beer capital of the world — not only will brewmaster Sean Thommen be brewing American-style craft beer, he’ll be creating traditional European beers and exciting new recipes to satisfy local tastes. East West will offer their own take on pale ale and Belgian favourites, but they’ll also have an eclectic choice of other brews inspired by this city, most notably their Saigon Rose beer, a low alcohol and light bodied beer brewed with raspberries. There will be a tap room with a marble bar where you can get down to business with tastings, and a dining room with a contemporary ambience where customers will be able to sit back and watch their next beer brew. For more info, check out East West Brewing Co. at facebook.com/ eastwestbrewery. The venue is located at 181-185 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, HCMC. Craft beer will start at VND70,000 a go, while mains will cost from VND100,000

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HCMC

4 2

Hoi An gets itself a new Vietnamese restaurant, Bep1919

Thai Restaurant Spice Temple has opened on Mac Thi Buoi

Fancy a com tam burger, anyone? Relish & Sons has got it covered

160 soon-to-be-constructed apartments at City Garden go on sale on Nov. 12

Turkey is on the menu this festive season at Au Lac Do Brazil

Products by Henry Forwood are now on sale at Anupa Boutique

Bep Me In mixes a streetfood eatery with home-style Vietnamese fare

Bep Me In New to Ho Chi Minh City, Bep Me In sits at the end of a private alley near Ben Thanh Market, steeped in history and in culture. The restaurant is not easy to come across and manages to maintain peace and quiet that many spaces in Ho Chi Minh City seem to have lost. While downstairs captures the heart and soul of a street-food eatery, the upstairs provides the comfort of a more contemporary home dining room. Both offer the best of mama’s home cooked dishes from the street and countryside, and promise the diner a chance to reflect on the beloved comfort food of Vietnam. Bep Me In is at 136/9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC or online at bepmein.com

Henry Forwood Design Launch English designer Henry Forwood has spent the last 20 years developing and manufacturing designs in furniture, accessories, ornaments and other household objects for clients worldwide. Henry draws much of his design inspiration from mother nature, whether he is creating a beautiful designer shagreen or that perfect tray handle inspired from a twig found in

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the jungle. Henry is close to the entire process of production for Forwood Designs, from founding the initial idea to following through with the manufacturing and packaging. Selected products from Forwood Designs are now available at Anupa Boutique. Alternatively, click on their website to see the full product range. Anupa Boutique is at 9 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC. For more info on the designs, click on forwooddesign.com.

The Festive Season at Au Lac Do Brazil The first authentic Brazilian Churrascaria to open in Vietnam, Au Lac Do Brazil’s all-you-can-eat dining concept of meat straight off the barbecue has long delighted the palates of this country’s carnivores. Throughout November this year guests will be served 12 kinds of meat including turkey on a skewer and one drink at only VND790,000++ per adult (kids cost VND450,000++). The restaurant will also run a Turkey Take-Away Package from Nov. 1 to the end of 2016, offering a whole stuffed turkey, cranberry/gravy sauce and a bottle of house wine for VND2,450,000 with two days pre-order. For more details or to make a

reservation call (08) 3820 7157. Au Lac do Brazil is at 238 Pasteur, Q3, HCMC

New Hoi An Dining Oasis The recently opened Bep1919 is a new oasis of Vietnamese food and culture in Hoi An. Set in the heart of the iconic walking streets of the old town, this charming restaurant is the ideal place to soak up the past of Vietnam. Located in a vintage yellow house first built in 1919, the building’s structure remains much the same as it was in its original form. The Bep1919 menu offers a range of Vietnamese favourites such as steamed fish in local herbs, marinated chicken thigh with sticky rice crust, roasted pork belly marinated with lemongrass, all put together using the freshest of ingredients and the best locally grown produce. This includes handpicked herbs, organic rice, free-range meats and freshly caught seafood, cooked using traditional Vietnamese methods and recipes. Bep1919 is at 108 Nguyen Thai, Hoi An, Quang Nam. For more info click on bep1919.com or call (0510) 386 2279

Spice Temple Ho Chi Minh City has just welcomed a new Thai-inspired restaurant

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situated just off Nguyen Hue. Boasting contemporary design and an attractive ambience, Spice Temple focuses on Thai cuisine fused with international flavours to suit to any customer. Spice Temple is at 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, HCMC. To read a review of the restaurant, turn to xxx

Pizza 4P’s Ben Thanh Cult Japanese pizza restaurant, Pizza 4P’s, has just opened its third locstion in Saigon and its fifth restaurant in Vietnam. Nestled in a French-colonialstyle building at the corner of Thu Khoa Huan and Le Thanh Ton, Pizza 4P’s Ben Thanh has been carefully built to restore and preserve the ambience of the past. Decked out in a three-floor building, the restaurant has installed two pizza ovens on the second floor in an open kitchen so that guests can watch food being prepared. Using the same food concept and pricing as its other restaurants, dishes like the tomato spaghetti with mascarpone cheese cost VND140,000, while the Parma ham Margherita pizza goes for

VND330,000. Pizza 4P’s Ben Thanh is at 8 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, HCMC. Visit pizza4ps.com for more info

Com Tam Burger at Relish First came the Pho Burger. Now Relish & Sons have upped the ante with the all new Com Tam Burger. Made with all the components of a traditional plate com tam, this Saigonese mainstay has been converted into a burger. The pork patty is marinated with spices and grilled. The com tam broken rice is fried with spring onions and made into a bun, and the burger is served with pickles, a fried egg on top and a sauce based on a mix of fish sauce and chilli. Even better, the burger is not costly, coming in at VND110,000 a go. This is more than you’d pay for your plate of com tam, but then this is a burger served in a refined, air-conditioned atmosphere. So, no complainers, please. Relish & Sons is at 44 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC and 108B Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC

IS NOW OPEN IN DISTRICT 7

Crescent Apartments for Sale at City Garden City Garden have announced the official sale of the project’s final 160 luxury condominium apartments in the Crescent — the fourth and final tower of the City Garden project. The apartments will be available to the public on a first-come, first-serve basis starting on the morning of Saturday, Nov. 12 from 9am until noon. Set back from the main road at 59 Ngo Tat To, Binh Thanh, City Garden is a short drive from the city centre. Among the city’s most popular and successful real estate projects, City Garden offers residents a one-of-a-kind sanctuary from the pace of life in Ho Chi Minh City. The Crescent comprises 160 high-end apartments ranging from 65sqm to 145sqm, and is designed by renowned Australiabased architect Koos de Kiejezer of DKO. The project will be completed in Q2 2018 and will boast panoramic views of the city. For more information about the launch of The Crescent, please contact enquiries@citygarden.com. vn, or call (08) 3514 6888 / (0903) 336011

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ToDo

listHanoi

Experimental music, comedy, an election, live music, charity fun runs and a photography workshop. This month in Hanoi

Funky sounds from Germany

1. German Indie Pop outfit Von Wegen Lisbeth play Hanoi on Nov. 4 2. The BBGV Fun Run returns to Hanoi for the second time 3. Artist Nguyen Dinh Hoang Viet will be exhibiting at Manzi from Nov. 6 4. Musicians Tri Minh and Clara Bryld 5. Yes, it’s unavoidable. So much so you can even watch the election live at the InterCon on Nov. 9 6. CAMA ATK are putting on not one but two bands on Nov. 10

Youth Theater, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Nov. 4 Von Wegen Lisbeth, a young funky band from Germany playing lightweight indie pop sounds combined with sharp German lyrics will tour Southeast Asia this month, reaching Hanoi in early November. Like so many others, their music careers started with a video on YouTube — Sushi. Through making fun of the social network’s mechanisms, the cheerful song spread within no time all across Facebook. The entrance to all concerts is free. For tickets and further information visit goethe.de/vietnam. The Youth Theater is at 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm

The BBGV Charity Fun Run Ecopark, Hung Yen Sunday, Nov. 6 The Annual Fun Run for Charity, first launched in 2000 in Ho Chi Minh City, is the biggest event among a wide range of charitable activities held by the British Business Group of Vietnam (BBGV). Since its inauguration, the event has attracted over 75,000 runners and walkers, and raised over VND8 billion for charity. Launched in 2015 in Hanoi with

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over 2,000 attendees, the second annual BBGV Fun Run in the capital will take place on Sunday, Nov. 6 with all the proceeds going towards wildlife preservation. A great opportunity for company team-building and family outings, support for the event has come from multinational and local companies, universities, schools, organisations, families and individuals. Entrance is VND150,000 (adult) and VND75,000 (children aged five to 16), with a 10% discount for groups of over 50. The run will kick off at Ecopark, Van Giang, Hung Yen at 9am with a lucky draw and special prizes. It will finish at midday. To register click on bbgv.org, ticketbox. vn or call (04) 3633 0244. And for more information please contact Dung on dung.nguyen@bbgv.org

Is ?! for real!? Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh From Nov. 6 Manzi presents a solo exhibion of paintings, dubbed ?!, by Hue-based artist Nguyen Dinh Hoang Viet. Having quietly made a name for himself in the past few years, Viet is known for his unusual paintings of animals, and has continued the theme with animal paintings flanked by comical exclamation marks and

empty, black speech bubbles. The second half of ?! showcases Viet turning his quirky attention to everyday objects, all of which are out of the ordinary. Viet’s work combines light humour with intrigue, laughter with contemplation. Entry is free. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi and the exhibition runs until Dec. 6

Riding the Carousel Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Sunday, Nov. 6 Tri Minh and Clara Bryld will present the Hanoi audience a poetic, melancholic jazz night. The concert is a project of the two artists, coming from two different cultures — Vietnam and Denmark — who cocompose and perform their original compositions using jazz music as a common language. Entrance is VND600,000 per person. Due to limited seating capacity, please register at man-zihanoi@gmail.com before Nov. 3. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

US Election Watch Live Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake, Tay Ho Wednesday, Nov. 9 The strangest US Presidential race

in many years comes to a head next month, and the American Chamber of Commerce has organised an election watch party to see the drama play out. It features a la carte breakfast choices and live coverage from CNN and NBC, plus BBC, on large screens. Registration in advance is required, either by calling (04) 3934 2790 or via a web link at amchamhanoi.com/uselection-watch-party. Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake is at 5 Tu Hoa, Tay Ho, Hanoi and the party runs from 7am to midday

Monkeybar and Monoswezi CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Thursday, Nov. 10 6

A double header of two, alternative bands from Scandinavia will grace the stage at CAMA ATK on Nov. 10. This one should be at once unusual and evocative. MonkeyBar are Scandinavian duo Steinar Nickelsen and Erik Nylander. They create live driving techno with off-kilter drumming, swollen synth lines and deep bass drones: evoca-tive of epic days filled with darkness in the northernmost fjords of Scandinavia. Their sets are improvised, taking the audience with them on a journey of

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ToDo

listHanoi

1. Andy Hart is at the forefront of Melbourne’s dance music scene 2. Scottish artist Be Charlotte will be playing at ATK. She’s good, very good 3. An image from the book, Hau Dong: The Spirit Mediums of Vietnam 4. Hotel Paradiso will be the German contribution to the third International Experimental Theatre Festival in Hanoi 5. It’s here! Beaujolais Noueveau! The first wine of the new harvest 6. Experimental artists Vu Nhat Tan and Tran Xuan Hoa will perform Manzi on Nov. 18 7. San Francisco native Bezier plays Savage on Nov. 18

synesthesia: playful, yet viscerally emotive. Monoswezi are a collective of musicians originally from Mozambique, Norway, Sweden and Zimbabwe, but all based in Norway. With a common passion for traditional African music, in particular that from Zimbabwe and Mozambique, Monoswezi seeks a musical expression, where respect for tradition is combined with different references and experiences from jazz and modern Western music. Tickets cost VND80,000 on the door. Doors are at 8pm and CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

Andy Hart Savage, Tay Ho Friday, Nov. 11 Having launched two record labels, a podcast, numerous brands, parties and a string of releases with labels and artists from around the world, Andy Hart stands at the forefront of Melbourne’s dance music scene. Co-founder of the Melbourne Deepcast and now Mel-bourne’s infamous Wax’o Paradiso, Andy has also recently launched his own imprint, Voyage.

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Also on the decks will be the irrepressible Graz, an Australian DJ known for his eclectic sets which move across many styles from house and disco to funk. Savage is at 112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Entrance is free before 10pm and VND100,000 after

Being Charlotte CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Nov. 11 Scottish artist Be Charlotte comes to Hanoi for a gig which will showcase her exciting talent which has seen her invited to headline slots at T in The Park. Be Charlotte then went on to headline slots at Electric Fields, Belladrum and Doune The Rabbithole Festival. Her distinctive voice aside, Be Charlotte also raps and beatboxes and has helped to invent her own unique musical instruments. Following wide recognition of her debut single Discover earlier this year, Be Charlotte has been creating a huge stir in the UK music circuit having quickly established herself as a must-see festival act. Tickets cost VND100,000 on the door. Doors are at 8pm and CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

The Medium Has the Message Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Saturday, Nov. 12 Travel photographer Tewfic El-Sawy will introduce his latest photo book about the Viet-namese religion of Dao Mau and its ritual, Hau Dong. As the first and only nonVietnamese to publish a photo book about the tradition, Tewfic will present three photo talks, during which he will introduce his book, Hau Dong: The Spirit Mediums of Vietnam, and give insights into the indigenous and ancient tradi-tion/culture of Vietnam. His large, coffee-table format photo book features over 100 large colour photographs and more than 60 pages of text. Members of the Hau Dong community in Hanoi will attend the talks. The talk will be conducted in English with Vietnamese translation. Entry is free and the talk starts at 6pm. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

Hotel Paradiso Youth Theater, Hai Ba Trung Wednesday, Nov. 16 Goethe-Institut is presenting Hotel Paradiso, featuring non-verbal mask

is (almost) here. The celebration is a typical French tradi-tion that celebrates the end of the annual grape harvest and the release of the year’s first wine. Organised by CCI France Vietnam, the event will feature the Beaujolais wines, accompanied by French cuisine, live music (and a stage to dance on) and a lucky draw, all taking place in the main ballroom of the Pullman Hanoi. The food will be provided by several restaurant partners, including O’Douceurs, Maison Vie, La Verticale and A La Folie. Tickets are available from several locations around town, including the Pullman and CCIFV. Each ticket includes three dishes and two drinks. Tickets cost VND450,000 in advance or VND600,000 on the door. Contact: hanoi@ccifv.org. Pullman Hanoi Hotel is at 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da, Hanoi. The party kicks off at 6pm

Season Fades Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Friday, Nov. 18

theatre by the group Familie Flöz, Berlin, the German contribution to the third International Experimental Theatre Festival in Hanoi. The play is characterized by black humour with a hint of melancholy and involves dark happenings as siblings battle for control of the hotel. The well-known theatre group Familie Flöz, based in Berlin, has been performing non-verbal mask theatre for years. The third International Experimental Theatre Festival takes place from Nov. 15 to Nov. 30 in

Hanoi. It’s a space for experimental exchange between Vietnamese and international artists. Tickets for Hotel Paradiso are free, and are available from Goethe-Institut. The Youth Theater is at 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. The show starts at 8pm

Beaujolais Nouveaux Sont Arrivés! Pullman Hanoi Hotel, Dong Da Thursday, Nov. 17 This year’s Beaujolais nouveaux

Composer/pianist Vu Nhat Tan and percussionist Tran Xuan Hoa present to Hanoians an improvised acoustic concert with piano and percussion, titled Season Fades. Expect a chilled out evening combining the melodiousness of the piano with the beautiful rhythm of marimba. Entrance is VND250,000 per person. Due to limited seating capacity, please register at man-zihanoi@gmail.com before Nov. 16 to reserve seats. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. The performance starts at 8pm

Bezier Savage, Tay Ho Friday, Nov. 18 A founding member of Honey Soundsystem, Bezier is one of the most innovative of the present crop of DJs and producers emerging out of San Francisco. Having released

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various records on the Dark Entries label and Honey Soundsystem’s flagship label, over the last few years he has been focusing on his live music performance, which he has taken across the US and Europe. Support will come from Berlin’s Leo Cameo Savage is at 112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Entrance is free before 10pm and VND100,000 after

Family Fun at BIS festival British International School, Long Bien Saturday, Nov. 19 The British International School Hanoi hosts its international festival to celebrate the different cultures represented at the school and to raise money to support the school’s charity activities. The event will include traditional and modern games and activities such as a bouncy castle, face painting, henna painting, sand art painting, live music and performances, handicraft workshops, international food and drink stalls, and more. This is an opportunity for family and friends to come together and have an enjoyable time, and also to experience the vibrancy of the cultures represented at BIS Hanoi through the activities. The festival begins at 9.30am and carries on until 2pm. Entrance is free. For information call (04) 3946 0435 or email bishanoi@bishanoi.com. BIS is at Vinhomes Riverside, Hoa Lan Road, Long Bien, Hanoi 1. The BIS Festival on Nov. 19 will be celebrating the different cultures represented at the school 2. After a long absence, Hanoi favourite Spikey Tee returns to the capital to spin the lights out of ATK 3. An image from the documentary, A House in Ninh Hoa, by Philipp Widmann 4. Learn how to edit your photos in a series of workshops at the London College for Design and Fashion 5. Thanksgiving at Don’s Bistro. Not one to be missed 6. French DJ Sunsiaré plays Savage on Nov. 25 7. comedian Stephen Carlin will light up ATK on Dec. 1 8. The Song Hong Half Marathon returns on Dec. 11

The Return of Spikey Tee CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Saturday, Nov. 19 Next month sees the return of one of CAMA ATK’s favourite DJs, Spikey Tee. Regarded as one of London’s original “rude boys”, Spikey Tee has progressed from being a warehouse DJ in London, to band member of avant-garde outfit The Sindecut, to lead vocalist in Jah Wobble’s Invaders Of The Heart. All the while Spikey has continued to DJ, mixing hip-hop, R&B, ragga and drum ‘n’ bass. Spikey’s list of collaborations reads like a who’s who of the world’s dub stars and his ap-pearances in Hanoi have always been a must-see. Doors are at 8pm and CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Tickets cost VND80,000 on the door.

A House in Ninh Hoa Goethe-Institut, Ba Dinh Sunday, Nov. 20 As part of Mini DocFest, GoetheInstitut will screen A House in Ninh Hoa, a documentary by Philipp Widmann which tells a family story

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3 between Vietnam and Germany. Written by Dan Nguyen, the documentary follows three Vietnamese brothers whose lives separate for many years before reuniting through subsequent generations. The documentary is part of the Mini DocFest. The annual short film and video art festival is organized by Hanoi DocLab. Entrance is free. Goethe-Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. The documen-tary will be screened at 7pm

Vola Visuals Photography Workshops London College for Design and Fashion, Tay Ho From Nov. 21 Photographer and Word photo editor Julie Vola will be running an eight-session workshop on the fundamentals of digital editing. Participants will be introduced to industry-standard Adobe software like Photoshop and Camera RAW, taught how to retouch portraits, correctly adjust levels, and prepare images for web and print. Advanced techniques like creative filters, High Dynamic Range, and double exposure will also be covered. The final sessions of the class will be devoted to personal guidance from Julie, focusing on participants polishing their own body of work.

The workshop starts on Monday, Nov. 21 and runs every Monday and Wednesday evening from 6.30pm to 9pm. The price is VND4.99 million and The London College for Design and Fashion is at 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi. For info email julie@volavisuals.com

Thanksgiving at Don’s Don’s Bistro, Tay Ho Nov. 24 to Nov. 27 Don’s Bistro is known for its sumptuous Thanksgiving feasts, and this year is no different. The seasonal Thanksgiving turkey dinner with all the trimmings will run from Nov. 24 to Nov. 27 and costs US$25++ for adults and US$12.50 for children under 12. Under threes go free of charge. Don’s Bistro is at 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi. For bookings call (04) 3719 2828

Sunsiaré Savage, Tay Ho Friday, Nov. 25 An Asia-based DJ and producer and part of Hong Kong’s Cliché Records since its inception, behind the scenes French-born Sunsiaré spends time with his machines and takes care of the two labels — Fragrant Harbour and Homesick. While techno and house are the foundation of his sets, Sunsiaré doesn’t stick to one genre

5 when he’s on stage and can easily switch between different tempos or atmosphere as he feels the need. Savage is at 112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Entrance is free before 10pm and VND100,000 after

HIWC Bazaar St Paul American School, Hoai Duc Sunday, Nov. 27 The organisers of this year’s annual bazaar put on by the The Hanoi International Women’s Club (HIWC) will be aiming to build on last year’s event, which saw over 8,000 visitors and raised US$107,000 for charity. An end-of-year celebration and shopping opportunity which showcases international cul-ture and cuisine, the bazaar includes a food fair, a kids’ corner, live acts and music on the main stage. There is also the chance to learn more about the variety of goods and services on offer in Hanoi and to buy seasonal gifts for family and friends. There will be a new and improved shuttle bus service (free to ticket holders), to help visi-tors get there and back. Tickets bought in advance cost VND150,000 or VND50,000 for children under 12; the ticket price on the day is VND200,000. St Paul American School is at km 10 + 600, Thang Long, Hoai Duc, Hanoi. For

more info, please email bazaarsecretary@ hanoi-iwc.com, or check online at hanoiiwc.com/annual-charity-bazaar/

A Night with Stephen Carlin CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Thursday, Dec. 1 In an attempt to make you laugh, in recent times CAMA ATK has been flying in top-notch comics from overseas, and Scottish-born rabble rouser Stephen Carlin will certainly keep the audience in fine laughing fettle. Even the British press are into Carlin, so much so that they’ve written some rather nice things about him. Here’s what they’ve got to say: “So thoughtful you would put your house on him reinventing the knock knock joke... An-nouncing the arrival of a new comedy original.” — The Herald “Ready to become at the very least a cult favourite among fans of the sharper end of stand-up." — The Guardian “Fast establishing himself as one of the most distinctive, and funniest, new comedians in Britain.” — Steve Bennett, Chortle Interested? You’d better be. Reckon you can make that oh-so-long journey to the hinterland of Hai Ba Trung? Damn right you can. And if you do deign to get off your

backside to see this show, expect to fall off your seat — in laughter, that is, not because the chair is wonky. Entrance is VND200,000 and includes a free Pasteur Street IPA. Doors are at 8pm and CAMA ATK is 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. To keep yourself posted and ready for some co-medic fun, click on facebook.com/camaatk/

Song Hong Half Marathon Ciputra Club, Tay Ho Sunday Dec. 11 If you’re not already in training, then get on your running shoes. The annual Song Hong Half Marathon will take place in Tay Ho on Sunday, Dec. 11. A firm fixture on the Hanoi calendar, this event goes from strength to strength, offering 10km and 5km distances, and of course, a kids’ fun run. The lead sponsor, Ciputra, will host the start and finish of the race in the confines of Ciputra Club. This year’s race is billed as the Run for Wildlife as Education for Nature Vietnam continues their partnership with Red River Runners, providing race volunteers and injecting their usual level of energy to the event. Check redriverrunners.com for registration details and stay up to date with all the race in-formation through Hanoi Red River Runner’s Facebook page, face-book.com/redriverrunners.hanoi

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Just Hanoi

Packages for expats, another craft beer pub, Tex-Mex cuisine and, you guessed it, TV dinners. What’s new in Hanoi

2 3

1. West Lake’s got itself the closest you’ll get to a beach bar 2. Tacos at Anita’s Cantina 3. Stationery has opened on Xuan Dieu 4. Tay Ho gets itself a new deli 5. The pizza at the newly opened La Bodega 6. Ozu is Nguyen Qui Duc’s latest offering to the comrades and citizens of Hanoi 7. Standing Bar brings craft beer to the Truc Bach area of Hanoi 8. La Residence is one of the most beautifully set up hotels in Vietnam

Corto Corto is the closest West Lake is going to get to a beach bar. An outdoor venue with lakeside lounge chairs, it’s great for some after work chill and adorable dates. Cocktails are on the cheap side, with a basil cucumber gimlet going for only VND65,000, and pizza and tarts cost from VND60,000 to VND150,000. Wednesday is ladies’ night, with two-for-one margaritas, and drinks are 30% off every night from 5.30 to 7.30. Saturday nights feature live music by the lake, and plans are in the works to open during the day soon. Corto is at 162 Tu Hoa, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Anita’s Cantina Tacos have come to Quang Ba courtesy of Javier Rodriguez who has just opened Anita’s Cantina, serving pork, beef, and potato tacos for VND20,000, burritos for VND110,000, and margaritas for VND80,000.

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Hand-made tortillas and an assortment of salsas on every table makes this a proper Tex-Mex joint. There is one downside, though — it’s only open on the weekends, so get your tacos while you can. Anita’s Cantina is at 86 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Unicorn Stationery The only dedicated stationery and art supply shop in West Lake has just opened on Xuan Dieu — no longer do the teachers of Tay Ho have to drive to Ba Dinh to get their sticky balls! Stocked with acrylic paint by Martha Stewart, notebooks of all shapes and sizes, sharpie sets, colored pencils, and more, prices range from VND50,000 to VND500,000, and they are open 9am to 6pm every day. Unicorn is at 2B, Lane 40, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Bancong Deli Bancong Deli serves healthy comfort food from around the world. Brunch is served all day long, with a full English breakfast (VND130,000), sausage rolls (VND50,000), and pies (VND95,000). ‘TV Dinners’ are available to eat-in or takeaway on those nights when you just can’t cook: choose a main, like chicken cordon bleu or eggplant parmigiana, and two sides for VND160,000. The deli is vegetarian friendly, offers free delivery on orders over VND150,000, and is open from 7am to 9pm, Tuesday through Sunday. Bancong Deli is at 18 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho, Hanoi

La Bodega Located in Long Bien District, less than 10 minutes’ drive from Hoan Kiem, La Bodega is open from Friday to Sunday evening. Enjoy a wood-fired pizza, salad and hand-

made fresh pasta in a green, peaceful garden. The place is perfect for family events or an escape from the city’s madness. La Bodega also offers evening delivery service from Tuesday to Sunday. La Bodega is at 56/139, Thach Cau, Long Bien, Hanoi

Ozu by Tadioto Nguyen Qui Duc from Tadioto has opened a lifestyle decor shop, featuring eclectic wares from different corners of the world. Spanning handmade Vietnamese crafts, refurbished furniture, found art, and even Moroccan carpets, this is a collection curated without pretention. Watch for future events here like poetry readings, jazz on the sidewalk, and meetups for designers. A coffee cart will

offer espresso and snacks from VND30,000 to VND120,000, and the space is open from 9am to 9pm (at least). Ozu by Tadioto is at 3 Ly Dao Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Standing Bar Boasting a 16-tap Vietnamese craft ale selection and a daily rotating menu of tapas and small plates, Standing Bar is what it says: standing room only, on the first floor at least. Upstairs, relax on sofas in the indoor lounge or at high tables on the spacious terrace with sunset views over Truc Bach Lake. Beers range from VND50,000 to VND100,000, and can be sipped Tuesday through Sunday from 4pm to midnight. Standing Bar is at 170 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

La Residence Opens the Door to Expats La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa has introduced a new Expats Escape package, calling all foreign nationals living and working in Vietnam from now through Sep. 30, 2017 to stay at one of the country’s most acclaimed hotels for VND2,970,000 per night. The Expat Escape rate at this property that evokes the magic of French Indochina includes accommodation for two, and a 15% discount on food and beverage, spa and laundry. All that’s required of the expat is a valid working permit or visa, to be presented during the reservation process and upon arrival at the hotel. For reservation and information, please contact resa@ la-residence-hue.com.

Insider

Sister Act / Building Quest / Women / Chup Dao / Six Shades of Vegan Green / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Xoi Xiu / Mystery Diner HCMC / Banh Tam Bi / Banteay Srei / Inside Phong Nha / Destination Zero: Easy Tiger / Destination Zero: Mia Nha Trang Photo by Theo Lowenstein

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Insider INSIDER

HCMC

Sister Act Two nuns, two churches, with two different paths into the future. Matt Cowan gets a rare view into the often hidden world of the Catholic Church. Photos by Vu Ha Kim Vy and Mike Palumbo

espite the active role Vietnamese women have played in the more turbulent times of the country's history, when peace breaks out, the patriarchal order returns. Women are often seen as nurses, homemakers, shop assistants, administration officers and secretaries, while men manage them. One quiet exception is the work women do in the Catholic church. While the stereotypical role of the nun could be perceived more as yin — cloistered, veiled, hidden, passive — one where they pray all day, many nuns in Vietnam take on a yang role — positive, active, open, confident — and are visible in society. One such nun is Sister Marie Thecla from the congregation of Notre Dame in Ho Chi Minh City. Nearly 70 years old, Sister Thecla has devoted her life to the Catholic church. Her career has taken her to 80 percent of the Catholic church parishes throughout Vietnam, including a stint in the Philippines where she graduated with a PhD in Counselling and Psychology from De La Salle University in Manila in 1993. She has also practised in the US and has written seven books in her field and says she has five or six more in the pipeline. “I see my job as not only spreading God’s word, but also as helping people

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understand the human aspect of life,” says Sister Thecla. “It’s not just all about the spiritual.”

Commitment In addition to her work with the Catholic church in Vietnam, Sister Thecla has spent the past 20 years lecturing at universities and advising NGOs on matters relating to family, education and health. She was the first Catholic nun in Vietnam allowed to teach at university. In fact, Sister Thecla’s work is an example of the type of employment nuns can pursue outside their traditional commitments. “We have nuns who are trained teachers, doctors, and lawyers, who have the blessing of the church to contribute to society through practice,” she says. While her work is far-reaching, Sister Thecla wields bigger influence within the inner sanctum of her order, and the Catholic church overall, whose adherents are said to make up 6 percent of the Vietnamese population. She offers seminars to nuns and priests that act, in effect, as in-house training and development similar to the way regular workplaces might hold training and development for their employees. “Naturally I teach theology to both the nuns and the priests. But I hold classes

separately because they’re a different audience,” says Sister Thecla. “There’s a different message.” She doesn’t reveal the content of the seminars she delivers to the priests, only to say some priests are “more open” than others. However, she says that her seminars for nuns and other women in her congregation centre on self-esteem and confidence building. “I aim to strengthen their confidence so they aren’t afraid of men,” she explains. “If they’re more aware of their potential and value themselves, they’ll be more confident and freer.” When asked if the engine behind the work of the Catholic church in Vietnam is the women, she chooses her words carefully.

Influence “Like everywhere, the priests have the most influence, but (she emphasises the but), the nuns’ work has great influence in the community. It spreads out like grassroots through their classes and through counselling couples, visits with families and helping people.” Sister Thecla’s answer steers our discussion towards the problems that women in Vietnamese society face today. She identifies development as being a major cause of difficulties in Vietnamese families, particularly in rural areas. As Vietnam develops and becomes more attractive as a manufacturing hub for industries such as the textiles and garments industry, men and women are migrating to Ho Chi Minh City for work in unprecedented numbers, often leaving their children and families behind. As a result, Sister Thecla says she’s seeing an increase in cases of autism in urban areas among children attending the kindergarten at her Nam Ky Khoi Nghia chapel. She says most of the children who attend her kindergarten have autism. “There are likely two reasons for this,” she says. “One, parents are busy with work and have little time for their children. Two, society is opening up and becoming less ashamed and less worried about face, and therefore, more likely to seek support.” Not too far from Sister Thecla’s church is another Catholic establishment across

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the Saigon River at Thu Thiem. Like its fellow church in town, it’s observing similar changes in society, but is having to deal with one as a matter of urgency.

Resilience The Lovers of the Holy Cross convent at Thu Thiem is struggling to maintain the status quo amid development and forced relocation. While Sister Thecla’s church remains healthy and robust, the Holy Cross convent appears to be waging an almost daily battle to hold its ground, despite its resilience. Already parishioners have moved to other parishes, leaving behind 300 nuns living and training on site with at least another 300 dispersed throughout the Catholic dioceses in Vietnam, mostly in the south. There are also 60 retired nuns living in the nursing home on the grounds that need support. And the recent contamination of its small, but once productive fish farm, has damaged the convent’s sustainability. Sister Alma (not her real name) is a

73-year-old nun who has been at Holy Cross since she was 14. She says that she and the other nuns have refused to relocate on a number of occasions despite pleas from their families. “We staged a protest last year over two or three days because of plans to demolish some of our buildings. We are still here though,” she says. Much like the sisters of Notre Dame, the Holy Cross sisters rely on income from their kindergarten, but due to restrictions on size, it has a cap on the number of children who can attend.

Significant Nevertheless, they are still able to derive income from teaching at elementary schools and other social activities. However, they have one alternative source of income in the form of dairy cows. The church has a small dairy with around 30 Friesian cows producing somewhere between 200 and 300 litres of milk each day which is then sold on to Vinamilk and

other buyers. Although the income isn’t significant, the milk is also enough to meet the daily requirements of the convent. In addition, the dairy produces enough biogas to satisfy the cooking requirements of the kitchen, which feeds 300 people three times per day. Still, the threat to the nuns’ way of life looms large. Perhaps most symbolic of this is the earmarked felling of the original tamarind tree that has stood on the grounds of the convent since its establishment around 1840. “I don’t think much about the future,” says Sister Alma. “I’m leaving everything up to God to decide. Right now I’m just trying to do my best.” Sister Thecla and Sister Alma are unanimous that they would do it all over again. Their chosen vocations have not only afforded them important opportunities to serve the community in a spiritual sense, but have provided them with opportunities to be influential in what is often seen as a male-dominated space.

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Insider INSIDER

HANOI

Building Quest Revellers and partygoers have little idea of the work that goes into putting on a festival. Jesse Meadows goes behind the scenes of this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Quest

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“F

estival work is not glamorous,” says ZarahLouise Roth, Quest Festival’s workshop coordinator. We’re sitting at Hanoi Rock City on a Thursday night, surrounded by giant plywood triangles that volunteers are painting purple, orange and green — the colours of the Khong Sao Stage. There’s glitter everywhere. The back room — a former handpoke tattoo studio — has been converted into storage for festival materials, which grow by the day as participants help to cut, glue and paint everything piece by piece. “Having a place like this where we can paint freely is really rare,” says Cat O’Brien, head of the stage’s design team. Unlike the other stages at the festival, Khong Sao isn’t just about music — it’s a place for workshops and art exhibits, so Cat has invited festival-goers to help her build it. Rather than turning up for a weekend to dance, she wants attendees to feel like they’re a part of the festival, too. “When I was first recruited, it was just a community space, a really small area. It wasn’t a stage. And as I kind of got to understand the brief and the story, I really pushed to make a stage that represented the

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mountain god. As it developed, it started to get bigger and bigger, and it’s become like a main stage now.”

Battle of the Gods This year’s festival is based on the Vietnamese myth of the battle between the mountain god Son Tinh and the sea god Thuy Tinh, somewhat of an origin story for the Ba Vi mountain range that surrounds the campsite. The official Quest headquarters can be found in a house tucked away off Tay Ho Street. Whatever can be assembled there is done downstairs in the workshop — the rest is transported to Son Tinh Camp in trucks two weeks before and built on-site by a team of 20 — double the eight people who built last year’s festival. Upstairs in the kitchen, the table has been converted into an office — six people sit glued to laptops with spray paint, festival flyers, cigarettes, empty take-out boxes and stacks of invoices piled between them. The coffee pot is never empty, and a three-legged dog wanders about the house, providing necessary stress relief. Natalie Smith, the performance producer, sits at the table, headphones on, Excel spreadsheet open.

“We have many balls that we juggle, and it’s about not dropping any of them,” she says. With a background in organising outdoor performing arts festivals, she’s in charge of Quest’s non-musical art, like contemporary dance, aerial silks, fire spinning and drag performances.

Fluorescence “There are lots of different things [planned], but they’re all very much about bringing the people that come to Quest together,” she says. “So, for the Quest parade, everybody in costumes, drumming, weaving in and out of the festival, picking up people as we go along, we should end up with the entirety of the festival in one space.” Zarah sits on the couch at her laptop. The Berlin native has years of festival experience behind her, but this is her first Quest. She’s planned nearly 30 workshops, from tarot to body marbling to kung fu. Her crisis today is finding fluorescent feathers, and cellophane that she can use to make giant glow-in-thedark jellyfish. She pulls a strip of plastic out of her bag. “This is a sample? No. This is a trash bag.” She shakes her head in frustration. Finding materials in Hanoi is difficult. Quality wood is expensive or non-existent,

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so the team has innovated with bamboo and nearly 400 shipping pallets. “A lot of it is just zip-ties and staples,” Tyler Purdon, the build manager, says. “But each year, the goal is to make a better festival and a better process.” Much of his job is managing creative yet unrealistic expectations. “One thing I really wanted to do was completely curtain the stage,” Cat says, “which would have been hundreds of metres of fabric." Tyler pointed out that would cost VND7 million, breaking the budget. “That’s why you start early, so you can work out the kinks,” he says. Nguyen Linh, the festival coordinator, sits at the kitchen table every day doing that — pricing surge protectors, handling poster orders gone wrong, making sure all the bilingual signs are correct, and endlessly emailing. “She’s known as the festival ninja,” Natalie says. “She has the big, overall picture. Linh is very much that go-to person [on the team].” She was also one of the only women on the team in 2015 — something the organisers wanted to change this year. “Quest needs to be balanced out. If it’s just a bunch of guys talking in circles, you’re not

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getting anywhere,” Tyler says. “It’s based on your personality, not your gender,” Linh asserts. “I keep telling myself, just keep [working], and if people see that you are working hard, they will try to work harder, too.” There are two weeks left until Quest, and back at HRC, most of the Khong Sao Stage has been painted and sealed. “I still need to make a chandelier, wrap, tarp, and label everything, make a load-in and a load-out plan, build a bamboo wall to go behind the DJ booth, and get loads of frames,” Cat says, as she draws in the geometric lines of her plywood mountains with black marker. Next to her, Liv Ferrari is painting the signs that will mark the festival’s stages, bars and workshop areas. She spreads water across a plank of wood, and drips acrylic paint over it. The colours swirl together like magic. “[The best thing about Quest] is the fact that it’s so small-scale,” she says. “You see everyone’s ideas, and for months, they’re coming together, and then suddenly the week before, it all just comes up amazing.” It’s true, dancing in a national park with all your friends is fun. But my favourite part of Quest is building it together.

Cover Story

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ow many statues of celebrated women do you see in Europe? It’s a question we posed ourselves and except for those of saints, Joan of Arc and the many representations of Mary Magdalene, we could think up barely a handful. Yet everywhere you go in Vietnam you see images of this country’s most important women carved in stone, memorialized in temples, and remembered in the country’s street names. The Trung Sisters, Le Ngoc Han, Thach Thi Thanh, Vo Thi Sau. There are many. Women past and present have had a huge impact on Vietnam. This month’s cover story celebrates

women living and working in Vietnam. Featuring profiles of women, both modernday and historical, we have looked at the significant contributions they have made to this country, in war and in peace. On many fronts the status of women in Vietnam is higher than in a great many other countries in the world. They have proved their resilience time and again when things got tough. Yet for a country which acclaims the role of the female with such vigour, women often get a raw deal. Domestic abuse, unequal opportunities, cultural marginalisation and exploitation are all an issue here. Passing laws mandating gender equality (as Vietnam

did 10 years ago) is not an instant answer and far more needs to be done. Some of the stories we have uncovered are horrific. Despite the negatives, women in Vietnam have fashioned remarkable and visible achievements, from creating beautiful art, entrepreneurship, building skyscrapers and devoting their lives to the less fortunate, there are no boundaries to what they can achieve. They are business leaders, agricultural workers, athletes, politicians, homemakers, mothers, academics, artists, construction workers, warriors. You name it, women do it. Their strength is an inspiration, and we celebrate them for it.

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Women and the Economy Women play a key role in Vietnam’s growing economy. Yet it’s a role that is often undervalued. Words by Edward Dalton

ietnam is on a roll. It has enjoyed 30 years of virtually uninterrupted growth, with the World Bank calculating an average yearly increase in GDP per capita of 6.4 percent. The official reason suggests this growth is courtesy of the 1986 doi moi reforms. Another reason, however, is put forward by Trini Leung, Director General of Oxfam Hong Kong. “This growth is built on the backs of poor women,” she argues, in an article for Thanh Nien News. Women are the foundation of the Vietnamese economy. They support everything and do much of the hardest work. But the foundation is also the most unappreciated part; invisible and forgotten. According to Ms. Leung, men are the building being constructed on top; the part which is seen, appreciated, tangible, always going up. However, take away the foundation, and the building comes crumbling down.

Setting the Foundation

Data from the General Statistics Office of Vietnam states that agriculture and industry make up more than 50 percent of GDP, with 67 percent of the workforce in these sectors. A large proportion of workers in these two sectors are women. Compare this with the US, where about 13 percent of the workforce are employed in the same sectors, and it becomes clear how central women workers are to the Vietnamese economy. Even before the economic and social reforms of the 1980s, war had forced Vietnamese women into roles which have endured to the present day. With most able-bodied men drawn away by the conflict, women were needed to keep the economy running. In addition to fulfilling the traditional role of taking on the burdens of the household, women became part of the industrial and agricultural workforces, encouraged by the

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advice of the Women’s Union in the mid1960s. It is advice which still echoes today. “Women still make up some 70 percent of the agricultural labour force,” says Dr Khuat Thu Hong, Director of the Institute for Social Development Studies.

Double Days

Economists do not assign any economic value to running a household and a family, considerably undervaluing the role of women in the economy. “[Running a household] covers a range of activities,” says Ms Leung. “It includes cooking, cleaning, bringing kids to school and tending small vegetable plots.” These responsibilities add between two and four hours to a woman’s work each day, a concept Ms Leung calls time poverty. She cites global management consultants McKinsey and Co, who estimate the total value of the time women spend on unpaid care work is around US$10 trillion a year. Yet in Vietnam, traditional perspectives on the role of women mean that if they don’t fulfil their household obligations, they are deemed a failure. Norman Abjorensen, a Visiting Fellow at the Australian National University, spoke to several Vietnamese women about their feeling of being held back by having to run the home. “The men I have met have made it clear that they’re looking for a housekeeper and a mother,” says Hanh, a 30-year-old woman with a Master’s degree from an elite American university. She wants to pursue a long-term academic career in Hanoi. “My husband doesn’t want an educated wife with a career,” says Mai, 28. “You know, not once did he ever ask me about my thesis. It was as though this part of my life was invisible to him.”

Changing with the Times

“If women only stayed home caring for their families, the country’s history would

have been very different,” says Dr Khuat. Despite this observation, women remain under-represented in many sectors of the economy. Mr. Abjorensen notes that only 23 of the 186 members of the all-powerful Party Central Committee are female. Last year, the International Labour Organisation found that only 23 percent of managers in Vietnam are women, compared with nearly 48 percent in the neighbouring Philippines. The pattern of every modernising economy is always the same; agriculture and industry give way to the service and technology sectors. There are two key areas which must be addressed if women are to flourish and continue their key role in the Vietnamese economy into the future, according to Ms. Shoko Ishikawa, UN Women Representative in Vietnam. “On a personal level, men have to change their mind sets,” she says. Grassroots education is needed to break the association between women and running the home, which will allow women to enjoy the luxury of choice now reserved for men, with regards to their own education and career. The second area is at policy level. “There should be policies which support the balance between men and women,” says Ms Ishikawa. Policy makers need to recognise the role of Vietnamese women in the economy, and support and reward them equally. In 1975, 90 percent of Icelandic women organised a one-day strike, to show how undervalued women’s contributions were. They didn’t work or do any of the traditional “women’s duties” on that day. Banks, factories, schools and shops closed. Sausages sold out because they were the only meal men could easily cook. Five years later, Iceland became the first country in the world to democratically elect a woman as head of state. Maybe it’s time for Vietnamese women to have a day off, too.

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Role Play Vu Ha Kim Vy explains the conflict between the traditional and modern role of women in Vietnam. Photo by Bao Zoan

he various roles of women in modern-day Vietnam lie on a broad spectrum from ancient to modern. The differences can be seen in terms of rural versus urban, poor versus wealthy, young versus old, religion, general cultural values, or even the part of the country where the family lives. Vietnam passed its first gender equality laws in 2006, and for 30 years before that, had been moving towards a more modern and less rigid mode of thought. But while nobody doubted that women contributed more when they were given freedoms, and few doubted that they deserved more, ancient Confucian values proved hard to shift. It is said there are three types of Vietnamese woman today; the ones who hold to Confucian values, those who mix the traditional and the new, and those who reject the old values completely.

The Old Values

Traditional Confucian values, with their emphasis on rigid roles and rules, have been around for a long time in Vietnam — since the Chinese occupation of the first millennium. Everyone was supposed to know their place and stay in it, and the woman’s place was subservient. It mandated a system of values and moralities by which these feudal women had to abide. Tam tong (the three obediences) specified that an unmarried women had to obey her father; a married one had to obey her husband, and a widowed one had to obey her sons.

Tu duc (the four virtues) required that a woman be cong (hard-working and competent), dung (modest in manner and appearance), ngon (proper in speech and communication with others) and hanh (moral, including remaining a virgin until marriage). Forcing women to be conservative, passive and long-suffering may have been an ideal in the world of 2,500 years ago, but in modern times, these ideas appear to do no more than stunt development of half the population in terms of both intellectual and social participation.

Merging the Old and New

When Nguyen Thi Binh became Vietnam’s first female vice-president, she became regarded as a role model for modern women: here was someone able to handle both the issues of the country and the issues of her own family. Similar modern role models include Ton Nu Thi Ninh — former deputy chairman of the National Assembly’s Foreign Affairs Committee, Nguyen Thi Kim Ngan — vice president of the National Assembly, and Nguyen Thi Kim Tien — Minister of Health. Every year, there are more examples of successful, independent Vietnamese women seeking to live life on their own terms. Take Nga Le, 28 years old and Project Director of XLE Group. Her full work schedule with the Vietnam Basketball Association (VBA), Saigon Heat and Junior NBA, means she has to travel for business but still has to make time for her family. “My mother hasn’t applied much pressure to force me to get married.” she says, “But I know for sure she’s concerned!” She is busy with her career and doesn’t know if or when she will meet a Mr. Right, but still thinks about having a family of her own. Bui Phuong Anh is human resource and organizational development partner at ActionAid International and a mother of two. She regularly travels abroad for work and has to make sure everything at home will be fine while travelling. “I’m lucky to have an understanding

husband who has shared with me in every field,” she says. “My mother-in-law was annoyed at first when she saw me travelling so much, but now she understands and that makes it easier for me. “However, not many women can be as lucky as I am, especially rural women where the old ways still exist. They have to stay at home, aren’t allowed a voice or have the right to do anything. They even get abused or beaten by their husbands.”

A New Concept

Combining an independent modern life with traditional values is not easy. If the partner is open-minded and supportive, then the two roles can co-exist. If not, a woman may have to choose between career and family, which many seem prepared to do. “It’s a big mistake to think that a modern women’s role is working hard in society and taking good care of the family by doing all the housework, taking care of the children and serving the husband,” says ActionAid’s Phuong Anh. “Having a job or staying at home, having children or being a single mom are not the elements of being a modern woman. Doing what you as a woman like to do, and following where you as a woman want to go. That’s a modern woman, someone who knows what she needs.” Nga Le agrees. “We as women only need to know what we want to do, what we can have and what makes us happy.”

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Women in the Arts

From music to film, art to poetry, we profile five women who’ve found themselves a niche in Vietnam’s arts. Photos by Julie Vola and Mike Palumbo

e Thuy paints to find a sense of place. She’s saddened by the way society has lost its link to the natural world, so with dreamy watercolor and mysterious silk, she creates her own idyll. In her new series, Where is the Place of Peace?, she paints herself into ethereal landscapes that float in negative space with dogs, roosters and insects her only companions. Even the smallest details in her work have stories. In her painting, Balance, a blindfolded woman totters playfully across a tree trunk bridge, flanked on either side by a black and a white goat. “In Vietnam, we have a story about two goats. They walk [across a

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Le Thuy bridge] at the same time, but they don’t stop [to meet each other], and they fall into the river,” she explains. The painting laments a lack of mindfulness, and praises the bliss we find when we look inward. The theme of solitude repeats. In her work On the Blue River, a woman sits with a small spider. “She’s just talking with herself,” Thuy says. The figure is surrounded by delicate shrubbery — Thuy explains that these are a special kind of plant that close when touched, and do not open again for at least an hour. Thuy’s obsession with flora and fauna stem from her childhood in rural Thanh Hoa.

“When I was young, I had many animals. My mother had a small farm,” she remembers. She studied art at Thanh Hoa College, and was one of five women in her class of 30. Originally she wanted to become an art teacher, but since graduating, she has exhibited in Hanoi, Singapore and Ho Chi Minh City, and her work has been added to collections in both Hong Kong and Vietnam. Now, the 28-year-old paints every day in her Long Bien studio. It takes her one month to complete a piece, and she often sacrifices her social life for her painting. “My mother called me and said I have to get married,” she laughs. “But it’s not for me. I am happy when I work.” — Jesse Meadows

ike her American counterpart, Vietnamese musician and singer Mai Khoi has put gender and sexuality rights in the spotlight. The so-called ‘Lady Gaga of Vietnam’ has made a name for herself as a feminist advocate for lesbian/gay/bisexual/transgender (LGBT) rights in a society that has only recently made turns towards acceptance. “I believe different groups of women, and different genders, are human beings, should be treated equally, and have the right to make decisions about their own lives,” she says, adding that she’s noticed a definite improvement in the situation in recent years. “While many LGBT people are still discriminated against and devalued, talking

Mai Khoi about LGBT issues is no longer taboo like it used to be,” she says, adding that the LGBT community is making large strides. “The LGBT community in Vietnam is now very active and strong.” With a penchant for poking at conservative sexual and gender norms, Khoi rose to prominence in the Vietnamese pop music scene in the 2000s. She was honoured with VTV’s Song and Album of the Year Award in 2010. While comparatively tame compared to the real Lady Gaga, local media has always drawn the comparison thanks to her hair dye, overt sexuality and fondness for stoking controversy. “Before I had pink hair and I wore attire

with the leggings. I sang my very weird lyrics, and at that time, my music revolutionized dance music in Vietnam,” she says. These days, however, Khoi has traded her electric beats for acoustic guitars and traditional flutes. With influences ranging from American blues to traditional Vietnamese folk music, her lyrics push for equality with more vigour than ever. Gone are the Lady Gaga days, she says, as she takes a more serious and sombre tone in her art. “I don’t see it as attractive any more,” she says, referring to her old image. Her next album, Cuffed in Freedom, is to be released by the end of the year. — Bennett Murray

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Kathy Uyen

t’s my first meeting with actress Kathy Uyen. We need aircon in Kathy’s Blue Velvet club in downtown Ho Chi Minh City where the shoot is, so I charge downstairs. At the bar, she’s taking a call. When she spots me, she reacts like we’ve known each other for years. Once upstairs Kathy seems tense. She’s concerned liquor bottles as a backdrop won’t cut it. I learn this is Kathy working. She’s meticulous, to the point, focused. This isn’t a woman who’s here because she has nothing better to do. Her styling shows that. There’s nothing out of place. She’s her own brand and it’s important. She looks stunning. Then on a whim she invites us into her private life. She shares pictures of her new home and asks for opinions on paint. She wonders if there should be more tint. Then comes the realisation she’s not only a star, but foremost a regular person juggling everyday things. It loosens us up. The shoot goes like a dream. “I see myself as constantly evolving,” says Kathy when I ask her about herself. She grew up American speaking Vietnamese, but has evolved into a Vietnamese-American speaking English. She’s added tint to her own story, where it was once all the same shade. The Vietnamese part now means so much more. Had Kathy not accepted a role in Passport to Love (2009), she might never have come to Vietnam. It led to her decision to pursue her acting career in Saigon. Now she marvels at the irony of achieving the American dream of house, white picket fence and two dogs, but in Vietnam. Here most recent movie was Tan Binh Vo’s Triple Trouble (2015). “It’s funny how life finds a way to bring you what you need. You just have to go where your heart is, where your roots are.” Meanwhile, Kathy’s passion for acting and respect for her profession is clear and it’s this that will drive the next stage of her career. She wants to teach the next generation of Vietnamese actors to be respectful of acting, too. “I want them to appreciate what it takes to be an actor. Because there’s history, depth, technique and rules that you have to learn before you can break them.” — Matt Cowan

Kaitlin Rees and Nha Thuyen

“E

very language meets at the intersection of sky and ocean,” writes Nha Thuyen in words breathe, creatures of elsewhere, the poet’s second full-length book and first to be translated into English, with the help of translator Kaitlin Rees. This intersection, she explains, is an illusion. We think we see a clear division, but the horizon is always shifting “with the tides and light”. So, too, does text. “A poem itself is this constantly changing thing, and in translation you update it in some way from this moment or this language, but it is still always evolving,” says Kaitlin. “You read a poem from 10 years ago and then you read it again, and it’s

different. You’re different, so the book has a new meaning for you. And I like that, text as a living thing.” The duo met five years ago when Thuyen read a piece at one of Kaitlin’s poetry readings. They started the bilingual poetry journal AJAR to explore the place where languages meet. Each issue revolves around one word, and features work from writers across Asia. “I like to think of these issues as definitions of words,” Kaitlin says. The latest collection centres around the word nuoc. “It has at least two main meanings, water and country. So, how can all the words speak to each other?” Thuyen asks. In August this year, the women organised

a-festival, a small poetry gathering in Hanoi that facilitated exchange between poets and translators from Southeast Asia, Hong Kong, India, and Kuwait. The meeting culminated in a collaborative publication called Abracadabra, an exploration of the magic that can be made with the right combination of words. Their latest project is an online archive of nearly 26 hard-to-find poetry books published by small presses. Readers can digitally flip through the pages, and are invited to submit their own translations. “You can comment and translate any portion of each page,” Kaitlin explains. “The idea is that slowly these books will be translated, even just word by word.” — Jesse Meadows

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Domestic Violence in Vietnam

If you’ve seen the man-versus-wife fights on the street, then this is nothing to what can go on behind the scenes. Jesse Meadows looks at how deep-rooted domestic violence is in Vietnam, and what is being done to get rid of it. Photo by Julie Vola

ccording to the 2010 National Study on Domestic Violence Against Women in Vietnam, 58% of women who were ever married reported experiencing physical, sexual or emotional violence at the hand of their partners. In the study, violence survivors from Hanoi and Ben Tre describe the following scenes:

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“He choked me until I could not breathe and then he released.” “He was keeping a farmer’s pipe in his hands for smoking; he threw it towards me — to my hip and breast… He beat me, then he pulled me like a dog from the gate to inside the house.” “He beat me so much that this baby was premature. With the previous child [pregnancy], he beat me until the day of delivery.” “Ten years ago, [the concept of] domestic

violence was very strange to many people. They thought violence was only between two countries, not inside families,” says Van Anh, director of the Center for Research and Applied Sciences in Gender, Family, Women, and Adolescents (CSAGA). Vietnam’s first laws against domestic violence were only passed in 2007. “We have quite a big gap between the law and its implementation,” Van Anh says. “It’s

not easy to talk with the police. Although they know about the law, they think that domestic violence is not as important as other issues. It’s a private issue.”

Sound of Silence

According to a national study, half of women in Vietnam who have been abused have never told anyone about it, and 87% have never gone to the authorities. If they have told anyone, it’s usually another family member. The Vietnamese saying “He is bad, you feel embarrassed” (Xau chang, ho ai) expresses the shame that so often keeps women silent. It’s also common for women to feel at fault. “Many people think that if a woman becomes a victim, she has made some mistake. For example, she is too talkative [or has not done] enough housework,” says Van Anh. Cultural perceptions of gender roles often perpetuate abuse. Men have been taught that money and power are masculine, but in Vietnam, many women are the breadwinners for their families. As this can make men feel inferior, many resort to violence as a way to retain power. In the same way, women are taught that being a good wife means being gentle, quiet and ‘enduring’. This keeps them silent. Combined with a cultural emphasis on reconciliation rather than justice, many women find themselves in bad situations

they can’t escape. “They always want to keep the marriage [together] at any cost,” says Van Anh. “They think that if the family breaks down, it means the children are vulnerable, but they don’t think about women’s rights and human rights.” In reality, abusive homes are damaging for children, too, and continue the cycle throughout generations. “According to the research, if you observe violence as a child, you are most likely to be either a perpetrator or victim of domestic violence later in your life,” says Ritsu Nacken, deputy representative for UNFPA Vietnam, an organisation under the UN that works on gender-based violence prevention and awareness campaigns. “We need to start early, so younger boys will understand what kinds of relationships they would like to have in the future,” she says. “In many cultures, masculinity is expressed as very dominant and violent, but [we need to] teach young boys that’s just one part of it, and there are other ways to be manly.”

Shelters

UNFPA-supported schemes like Football for All in Hue are doing just that — using football clubs as a means to teach boys how to be supportive to the girls in their lives. The organisation is also working with farmers’ unions in rural Vietnam to include

men in the fight against domestic violence. Unfortunately, there are very few shelters available to victims. Women’s Unions and the Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism have tried to designate “trusted addresses” to fill this gap, by finding households that are willing to act as safe places for women who need to escape their homes. CSAGA provides help for victims in the form of workshops that act as healing sessions and provide legal counselling and a domestic violence hotline for both women and men. “One hotline is for the abuser, and one hotline is for the victim. When [the abuser] feels very angry and they want to do something to their wife, we can talk to them to keep them calm, and think about [the consequences].” November is the Month of Action for Gender Equality and Gender Based Violence Prevention in Vietnam. The government, supported by the UN and other civil society organisations, will conduct a series of workshops, policy dialogues, journalist training sessions, and community activities to raise awareness. Ritsu believes such a complex problem needs broad-based action where everyone gets involved. “It’s really important to have the whole society approach, including the government. Schools need to educate children, parents have to be role models, and we need to be able to talk about this.”

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Women in

Vo Thi Sau, Ba Trieu and Hai Ba Trung? Wonder who they are? Here are their stories and the tales of some of this country’s best known women. Words by Jesse Meadows and Vu Ha Kim Vy

ou’ve seen their names on street signs, wherever you live in Vietnam. These national heroines from the various stages of Vietnam’s history hold an important place in public consciousness. There

have been many male heroes in Vietnamese history too, of course, but the large contribution made by women to Vietnam’s turbulent past reflects their overall importance in society. Here’s a rundown of who’s who.

Hai Ba Trung

(12-43)

rung Trac and Trung Nhi were born in northern Vietnam around 12 AD to a military family, and grew up learning martial arts. Trung Trac married Thi Sach, the son of a military official, but when he stood up to the Chinese Han forces, they killed him to make an example of the rebels. This spurred Trung Tac and her sister into action — they gathered an army, of mainly women, and led the first resistance movement in 247 years of Chinese rule. They

Au Co

(Immortal)

u Co is regarded as the fairy godmother of Vietnam. Thousands of years ago, the legend goes, she was born in the mountains to De Lai daughter to the king of a northern tribe. On a trip to the lowlands, she met Lac Long Quan, the Dragon King of the Seas. They were married in an effort to unite the tribes, and Au Co bore 100 eggs that hatched into 100 sons. Over time, the couple

realised they were not happy and wanted to return to their respective homes, so Lac Long Quan took 50 sons to the sea, and Au Co took 50 sons to the highlands. She taught her sons how to work the land and build stilt houses that would protect them from wild animals, while Lac Long Quan taught his sons to fish and live off the water. Thus, the Bach-Viet people were born, the ancestors of the Vietnamese.

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recaptured 65 citadels and ruled as queens for three years until 43 AD, when they were defeated by an army led by General Ma Yuan. Chinese accounts claim they died in battle or were beheaded by the general, but the Vietnamese maintain that they threw themselves into the Hat River and committed suicide rather than surrender to the enemy. The sisters have temples dedicated to them in Hanoi, Phuc Tho, Me Linh and Ho Chi Minh City, and to this day remain powerful symbols of Vietnamese nationalism.

History

Huyen Tran Cong Chua

(1289-1340)

uyen Tran Cong Chua was a daughter of the emperor Tran Nhan Tong and younger sister of Tran Anh Tong. In 1301, the emperor took a nine-month trip to the Champa kingdom and was given a lavish welcome by king Jaya Sinhavarman III. Before leaving, the emperor promised to marry off one of his daughters to the king although he was already married. However, on returning to Vietnam, then called Dai Viet, he changed his mind. The king of Champa, however, was determined, and in 1306 offered to cede two Cham provinces — Chau O and Chau

Ly — to Dai Viet as a marriage gift. Tran Anh Tong finally agreed to marry off Huyen Tran to the king Champa. In 1307, Jaya Sinhavarman III died and according to Cham tradition, all of the royal wives would be cremated with the dead king. Under Tran Anh Tong’s orders, general Tran Khac Chung went to Champa to rescue Huyen Tran and take her back to the homeland by boat. Huyen Tran Cong Chua later on became a nun, built a temple at the foot of Tiger Mountain (now Nam Dinh) and lived there until she died.

Ba Trieu

(225-248)

rieu Thi Trinh was born in Thanh Hoa Province, while Vietnam was under the rule of China’s Wu dynasty. She was orphaned at a young age and raised by her older brother. At 20, she killed her brother’s cruel wife and fled into the mountains, where she raised an army to fight the Chinese. Her brother didn’t want her to become a rebel, and told her to get married instead, to which she famously replied: “I’d like to ride storms, kill sharks in the open sea, drive out the aggressors, reconquer the country, undo the ties of

serfdom, and never bend my back to be the concubine of whatever man.” According to legend she was nine feet tall, rode into battle on an elephant, wore golden armour, and could terrify the Chinese with her gaze alone. She couldn’t hold them off forever, though — after months of fighting, she was defeated, and fled to Phu Dien commune in Thanh Hoa, where she committed suicide. Today, many streets are named after her across the country, and Ba Trieu Temple stands in her honour, 17 kilometres north of Thanh Hoa City.

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Nguyen Thi Minh Khai (1910-1941)

guyen Thi Minh Khai, aka Nguyen Thi Vinh, was a revolutionary and one of the leaders of the Vietnamese Communist Party from 1930 to 1940. Born in Vinh to a worker father and a merchant mother, she joined worker movements and cofounded the New Revolutionary Party of Vietnam in 1927. At the age of 20, she joined the Vietnamese Communist Party and travelled to Hong Kong to become Ho Chi Minh’s secretary. From 1931 to 1934, she was imprisoned by the British administration in Hong Kong. She was released

Bui Thi Xuan

(1771-1802)

ui Thi Xuan was a general who fought in the Tay Son Rebellion. Born in the Tay Son district of Binh Dinh Province, she also learnt martial arts at a young age, and even rescued a man from a tiger. That man, Tran Quang Dieu, later married her, and joined her in battle. When Hue fell to Emperor Nguyen Anh, she led an army

of 5,000 troops to Quang Binh province. In 1802, however, Bui Thi Xuan, her husband, and their teenage daughter were captured and executed. She was trampled on by an elephant — a common mode of capital punishment at the time — and the enemies ate her heart and liver. Her name lives on across street signs all over the country.

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in 1934 and together with Le Hong Phong — who she later married — became Vietnam’s representative to the Seventh Congress of the Communist International in Moscow. In 1936, she returned to Vietnam and became the first female secretary of the Saigon-Cholon Party Committee. Although captured and imprisoned in the Maison Centrale de Saigon (now The General Sciences Library), she was still in contact with fellow members and continued leading the movement. In August 1941, she was executed by the French colonial authorities in Hoc Mon.

Vo Thi Sau

(1933-1952)

orn in Ba Ria — Vung Tau, Vo Thi Sau was a Vietnamese guerrilla and was the first woman to be executed at the Con Dao island prison, when she was 19. At the age of 14, she joined the Viet Minh with her brothers and threw a grenade, killing a French officer and injuring 23 soldiers. In 1950, she was caught by the French authorities after throwing another grenade.

She was imprisoned in three different facilities including Chi Hoa, Ba Ria and Con Dao before being executed by a firing squad in March 1952. Her grave is still in Hang Duong graveyard, Con Dao. Vo Thi Sau is considered a national martyr, heroine and a symbol of revolutionary spirit. Many schools and streets in Vietnam have been named after her. There is also a movie and a song about her.

Nguyen Thi Dinh

(1920-1992)

orn into a peasant family in Ben Tre, Nguyen Thi Dinh fought with the Viet Minh forces against the French during her teens. She joined the Vietnamese Communist Party in 1938 and was jailed from 1940 to 1943 in Binh Phuoc. She then led the movement in Ben Tre in 1945 and again in 1960 against Diem’s government during the war. In 1964, she was voted one of the members of the National Liberation Front. She became chairwoman of the South Vietnam Women’s

Liberation Association and Deputy Commander of the Southern Liberation Army in 1965. In 1974, she got promoted to be the first female majorgeneral of the People’s Army of Vietnam. After the war ended, she continued to be active within the Vietnamese Communist Party and served on the Central Committee of the party. She was also one of the vice-presidents of Vietnam’s Council of State from 1987 until her death. She died in Ho Chi Minh city at the age of 72.

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Women in Construction A rare sight elsewhere in the world, in Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s booming construction industry women are everywhere. With his camera to hand, Theo Lowenstein went in search of the women helping to build this country. Words by Edward Dalton 84 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com

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bout 72 percent of Vietnamese women are part of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s labour force, one of the highest rates in the world, according to the UNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International Labour Organisation. Distributed throughout construction, agriculture and industry, these women form the backbone of the Vietnamese economy. Yet in the construction business, the contrast between the perceived value of men and women is visible. Women are often used for unskilled labour, clearing out rubble, shovelling sand or carrying bricks. Men tend to have a different, more technical role. Indeed, in 2012-2013, Vietnam was one of the

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few countries where the pay gap between men and women increased. Not a good sign. After a hard day under the scorching sun, many of these women will still go home to the same responsibilities as their office-dwelling peers â&#x20AC;&#x201D; looking after their homes and families. Others have chosen to move to the city for work, living in cramped conditions and sending back money to their loved ones in the countryside. No matter how they play the game of survival, the role of women in building this country is irreplaceable. One day, we hope, they will get the respect and financial acknowledgement they deserve.

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Chi Anh Dao

or restaurateur Chi Anh Dao, owner of the KAfe chain, nothing is more aggravating than dullness in the kitchen. “Lack of creativity in food service is what gets me the most,” she says, adding that using artificial ingredients such as MSG is the epitome of “lazy flavouring”. Chi Anh circled the world before returning to her homeland, and Hanoi. Born in the Soviet Union and raised in Germany and Taiwan before going to university in Singapore, her menu reflects a global mindset. “There’s a little bit of Vietnam, a little bit of West and East, a little bit of everything

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just like my background. It’s comfort international that I believe in, nothing fancy.” Chi Anh opened her first kitchen-focused busines, Kitchen Art, in 2011. From there she moved directly into F&B and now has 15 restaurants spanning three brands. She is now looking at expanding overseas. Sexism isn’t a huge problem in her industry, she said, though she admitted that kitchens are often dominated by men. “In the kitchen, women tend to be on the softer side of kitchen work, like salads, the cold station, things that are less involved in fire and hot plates,” she explains, adding that the front of house tends to be more mixed. The local government agencies that she

must deal with, she adds, also tend to be comprised of boys’ clubs. “Normally there’s always a dinner at beer places, and I don’t do that kind of thing, so I have to get my husband to do it all, or authorise my manager to do it on my behalf.” But generational shifts away from tradition, she says, are helping to drive equality in the workplace. “My employees were mostly born in the 1990s, and their vision and lifestyle is very modern. Not everyone believes in the same values as before, where you had to get married at a certain age and live with your in-laws,” she says. — Bennett Murray

Great Women

From women in business to academics, authors to behavioural analysts to fashion designers, we profile nine women who are making a difference in Vietnam. Photos by Julie Vola, Mike Palumbo and Bao Zoan

Mai Vu Pham

ashion designer Mai Vu Pham was raised in a family with a proud lineage of physicians. With a surgeon father and a pediatrician mother, there was little doubt what Mai’s future career while growing up in Dalat would be. Her brother followed the family trade and became a cardiologist. With her pathway altogether cemented, how did a woman who was preordained to practice medicine turn to a life of fashion design? “Through struggle,” Mai replies, reminiscing about the day she had the courage to confront her father about her career choice. “My father was drinking while we were discussing my future. I told him my dream was to be in fashion, and he became very angry. He knocked all the beer bottles to the ground and they shattered into pieces. There was no way he would listen to me, so I knelt on the broken glass and said, ‘If you do not allow me to follow this career, I will not stand up.’ That is the reason why I have scars on my knees now.” Mai’s unwavering commitment to fashion encouraged her parents to change their minds, but with conditions: “We made a deal. They would allow me to attend Hanoi University of Arts if I passed with high grades. If I failed, I would continue studying to become a doctor.” That year, Mai passed the final examination second in her class, and her parents gave in to her wishes. Now free to pursue her lifelong dream, Mai set out to prove to everyone that she would not fail. “I studied at Hanoi University of Arts for three years. I then moved to Hue to study lacquering, and then attended Ton Duc Thang University in Saigon for four-and-ahalf years.” Mai opened her bespoke clothing store, Viva La Vida, soon after in the Phu Nhuan district of Saigon. The store’s yellow exposed brick interior and other embellishments will give you a window into Mai’s whimsical personality. A bicycle hangs from the wall and doubles as a clothes rack. After settling into her dream career as a fashion designer, Mai has had fashion shows in Tokyo and Thailand. At present she is working on a series of custom wedding dresses and ao dai as well as being the lead designer for a Vietnamese comedy feature film which will be released later next year. — Hai Vu

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Anupa Horvil

he woman behind the elegant and luxury handmade leather accessories and jewellery company, Anupa, Anupa Horvil has long run one of the best-known expat businesses in Saigon, with a boutique on Dong Du, right in the heart of the city. Leaving London in 1997 to work as a strategic planner for J.W. Thompson in Vietnam, in 2004 she quit the job and created her own business. “I had many ideas and had to decide which direction to take,” she recalls. “I chose to follow my passion and focus on creating luxury leather accessories and jewellery as I had the right partners to bring my ideas to life.”

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At the beginning, much of her time was spent researching the key players in materials, such as thread, leather, zips and types of stone, and learning the techniques and processes to produce these raw materials to ensure she always got quality products. Now she’s got plans for expansion. “We plan to expand our collections and develop a casual line of clothes,” she says. “We also want to move into being a leather bag and accessory tailor.” Passionate about fashion since she was very young, Anupa is aware that she is in a position to help others understand the industry. “I am able to develop my work, and to train and pass on my skills to ensure future generations think about luxury in a different

way to fashion,” she explains. That is one reason why she has stayed in Vietnam for so long. Another is that compared to its nearby neighbours, she has found Vietnam to be refreshing. When it comes to her identity, the country is tolerant, advanced and easy-going. “Whether you’re a foreigner or not, male or female, you are able to live easily without being judged.” Anupa has just given birth to a son, and thanks to her supportive husband, “everything is so much easier”. She adds: “The key is to plan and be wise with your time. This is the only way I am able to work and be almost a full-time mother as well.” — Vu Ha Kim Vy

ic and Lisa met five years ago on a blind date at The Refinery, set up by a mutual friend. “It was magical,” says Nic. “We had no idea what to expect, but when we met we clicked straight away.” Both women are American but had to move halfway across the world to find each other in Vietnam. Looking at them now, it’s like they have always been together. “We complement each other, I’m very heart-driven and Lisa is very logical,” Nic says. “Lisa is also a total prankster — she proposed to me in the US with a treasure hunt through the

Nic & Lisa snow and I had no idea I would find a ring!” The couple share a number of interests in life, from travel to nutrition. “We’re both crazy fitness nuts,” Lisa says. “Nic likes to challenge herself and meet new targets, and to me it’s more about clearing my mind.” The two live and work together — Nic is a behavioural analyst and has her own Ho Chi Minh City practice while Lisa takes care of the business side. If you could use one word to describe this couple, it would be ‘genuine’. “We want people to feel safe to be who they are. We hope our own relationship can inspire that,”

says Lisa. “You love who you love.” You may know Nic and Lisa from the 2016 Amazing Race Asia. “We were the first LGBT couple to be cast on Asian TV,” says Nic. “It was an amazing opportunity to shine a spotlight on the LGBT community here.” Making the most of this spotlight, Nic and Lisa’s new project LetsComeOut is all about generating a community where women feel safe to be themselves. “We want to empower people, to normalise LGBT relationships and to create connections,” says Nic. “We want to bring people together.” — Zoe Osborne

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Irene Öhler

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rene Öhler is the author of Ba Trieu’s 21st Century Daughters, a book which tells the stories of 20 remarkable Vietnamese women. Born in Austria, Irene has lived in Hanoi for four years, during which time she has worked on her book and founded The Women’s Storytelling Salon, a place for professional women to share their stories of achievement. Included in Irene’s book is Pham Chi Lan, one of the most eminent economists in Vietnamese history, as well as Nguyen Thi Lan Anh, founding director of Action to the Community Development Centre, an NGO working to empower marginalised groups. “I wanted to involve the women, not only write about them,” says Irene. "And to turn their rich stories into readable portraits.” “For thousands of years, men have told women’s stories,” she continues. “I wanted to give the voice back to women, so we can tell our own stories.” Irene harbours a deep admiration for the women she has written about, and acknowledges the effect the women in her book have had on her. “You can’t spend years researching remarkable women without being impacted by them,” she says. Irene says she needs to contribute something meaningful. With a background in executive coaching and leadership development, she has a drive to bring out the best in people. “I like to help people achieve the changes they want to see,” she explains. Irene is proud to have always developed herself personally and professionally during the last 20 years of living in five different countries and she says the women in her book would still be remarkable even if they weren’t women. “They were pioneers. I would still admire them, and their drive to contribute.” — Edward Dalton

Nguyen Hoang Anh

rofessor Nguyen Hoang Anh has no shortage of female students in her classes at Hanoi’s Foreign Trade University. Some two-thirds of her undergraduates are women. Post-graduate, however, the numbers become grim. While she says around half of her master’s students are women, they only represent a third of her students at the Ph.D. level. “Parents expect a bachelor’s degree — it is the best way to get married — and afterwards they stay home and take care of the family,” she says, adding that being highly educated is perceived as a liability in the marriage market. “Usually [parents] expect men to have the higher level of education, and if their daughter has a Ph.D. degree they can’t find a suitable husband later,” she laments. Anh has been an economist since she arrived in Prague in 1980 to obtain her undergraduate degree. She has since coauthored five books on international trade and contributed to several Vietnamese textbooks. When female students confide in Anh, she says it’s usually to ask how they can gain acceptance from their parents. That conflict over education, she explains, is a glass ceiling in the minds of almost every Vietnamese woman. “Many come to me and say, ‘If I want to go study abroad or I want to go to Saigon to work, am I a bad child?’” she says. “But I say you’re not bad, when your parents give you a life, it means you have to live your life fully. One day when you are happy, they will change their minds.” There’s a silver lining, says Anh, when highly qualified women enter the workforce. “I’ve talked to many recruiters from foreign companies, and they tell me they prefer to recruit Vietnamese women because they are harder working and want to learn,” she says. — Bennett Murray

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Pham chi lan

ham chi lan is a high profile figure. During her career she has advised several Prime Ministers on economic and political reform and has played an integral role in some of the nation’s most pivotal moments, including the lifting of the US trade embargo on Vietnam, and the shift towards a more market-based economy. Throughout it all she has gained a reputation for saying things exactly how she sees them, not holding back on calling out ineffective policies and showing courage in the face of potential disagreement from her contemporaries. Working for the Vietnam Chamber of

Commerce and Industry (VCCI) for 37 years put Lan on the front line of negotiations between Vietnam and the US during the early 1990s. Her frequent meetings with US delegations and her advisory role to then prime minister, Vo Van Kiet, helped to lift the decades-old trade embargo that had served as a crippling barrier to development. Even though Lan boasts an impressive list of career achievements, she remains humble, praising the efforts of others and downplaying her own integral role in the historic achievements that she was a key mover in. After her official retirement in 2003, Lan

was asked by then prime minister Phan Van Khai to work full-time for his advisory group, where she stayed until the group was disbanded in 2006. In recent years Lan has focused her time and energy on pushing for institutional reform in Vietnam. Lan’s most recent work has been coauthoring the ‘Report Vietnam 35’ with the World Bank. The report outlines the future of Vietnam’s economic and commercial development, social and environmental policy and institutional reform. — Billy Gray You can read this seven-chapter report online at the World Bank website

Dr. Khuat Thi Hai Oanh

r. Khuat Thi Hai Oanh began her career as a doctor before founding the Center for Supporting Community Development Initiatives (SCDI) in 2010. Her work supporting marginalised communities including victims of HIV/ AIDS, drug addiction and the sex trade recently earned her the Vision Award 2016 from the Hanoi International Women’s Club. Dr. Oanh’s work isn’t aimed at giving charity to vulnerable people. Through SCDI she’s created a platform from which marginalised people in Vietnam can build their own communities, support networks and initiatives to unlock their potential.

“Every person has potential, but some people don’t realise that they have it,” she explains. “They need help to harness it, and escape the stigma placed on them by the rest of society.” At the turn of the century, sufferers of HIV/AIDS in Vietnam had no network of support, and no access to treatment. Dr. Oanh began a research project in 2001, working with victims of the virus. “I suddenly realised that there were all these people suffering, that I didn’t know about before, and nobody was helping them,” she says. It’s easy to see the degree of commitment that drives Dr. Oanh in her work. Her manner is calm, and carries a

managed solemnness — the manifestation of carrying the suffering of others on her shoulders. That suffering includes the sobering statistic that the biggest killer of people with HIV/AIDS in Vietnam is not the virus itself, but suicide. By providing refuge for people who are otherwise marginalised, stigmatised, and pushed into oblivion, she has given power to those whom society would prefer to ignore. Dr. Oanh is committed to raising awareness about the realities of their situation, so that in the future they can continue to access the help they need. — Billy Gray

Insider

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INSIDER

AY PHOTO ESS

o a D p Chu

ity. of the big c s t e e r t s e h n fe on t by Bao Zoa s o t Capturing li o h P . la ulie Vo Words by J

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hup dao means walking around and taking photos for fun. It is what photographers, both amateur and professional, love to do. For most of us, it is at the root of our creative process, and nobody understands that better than Word staff photographer, Bao Zoan. For Bao, chup dao means improvisation. He lets his mind run wild. And it is then that his vision of the world comes together. As he wanders, free from cumbersome equipment and rational forethought, he lets his experiences lead him; it might be a beautiful spot of light or a group of people, the look of a street corner or the geometry of the architecture that will drive him to frame and shoot. Bao has an acute sense for strong, layered compositions that tell stories of people and their objects. Each frame is a poetic moment that celebrates life.

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Food and Drink Au Parc Salad: Beirut Price: VND155,000 Ingredients: lentils, roast pumpkin, bulgur, lettuce, parsley, cucumber and pumpkin seeds, with pomegranate dressing and optional herb labneh.

u Parc is one of Saigon’s favourite lunch spots, and for a reason — it’s the kind of place you could spend all afternoon in, reading a book or talking with friends. Facing the deep-green 30/4 park, this restaurant manages to capture an essence of style and delicacy in our roaring, rowdy city. Much of the menu here either is vegan or can be made into a delicious vegan hybrid. The Au Parc manager, Cindy, happens to eat mostly vegan herself. “Yes, we have a lot of vegan food here,” she says. “If a dish is not vegan we can usually concoct something slightly different that caters to a vegan diet.” Looking through the menu, there are a number of salads to choose from. The Beirut salad is a mix of lentils, crisp

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vegetables, lettuce and roasted pumpkin, with a delicate, tangy dressing that lightens the whole dish. The pumpkin reminds us of Christmas pudding, tasting sweet and slightly fragrant, as though the kitchen had roasted it in honey and cinnamon. The cucumber is cut small, shaped like a half moon, and it adds a crunch to the soft lentils. The dressing is served on the side and the dish can be requested without the labneh, which is not a vegan element. This salad was recommended to us by a friend, and for good reason. It is a big serving and leaves us satisfied, without feeling heavy. A perfect light lunch, the Beirut is the kind of salad you would order with a crisp glass of white, or one of Au Parc’s fresh, cleansing fruit juices.

EAT & DRINK

HCMC

Six Shades of Vegan Green Ditch the meat and get some greenery inside you. Zoe Osborne and Mike Palumbo search out six dairy and meat-free salads that make a tasty meal

ou’d think that the humble salad, in all its luscious, leafy glory, is the most likely of all dishes to be vegan. But many salads rely on some kind of animal product to lift them

Guanabana Salad: In Love With the Coconut Price: VND90,000 Ingredients: bean sprouts, tomatoes, shredded carrots, cucumber, lettuce and citrus ricotta, in a chilli toasted coconut and lime dressing.

from basic, lettuce-ey nothingness to a dish that stands out, and it can be difficult to find something tasty that was designed for a vegan diet. Especially in such a meatbased culinary culture as that of Ho Chi

Minh City. But with diversity in demand comes diversity in supply, and our city now has an increasing number of vegan options to enjoy. It’s a matter of looking for them.

This salad is a bundle of vitamins. It is artistically arranged in its clear, plastic container with the dressing on the side. As you take a bite, you notice that each ingredient to the salad complements the next. The subtle crunch of red bell pepper next to fresh, green lettuce and the burst of a cherry tomato all provide a rich texture to the hero of the dish — the toasted coconut and lime dressing. The dressing itself could even be drunk, if not as a smoothie then as a strange sort of soup. In fact, we find it hard not to down it in one and restrict ourselves to dipping our forks into it at intervals. The salad may not fill you up for a long time, being mainly vegetables and dressing, but it does satisfy the taste buds.

his salad and juice bar sits like an oasis of health in the middle of downtown District 1. It’s known around the city for its juices and smoothies, and given the coconut kale smoothie on its menu this is not surprising. Put cashews, coconut and honey together, and you guarantee business. But the salads here are less wellknown, and perhaps that is because of the range. One of four salads, In Love With the Coconut is a simple blend of colourful, raw vegetables and fresh citrus ricotta. None of the salads at Guanabana are 100 percent vegan but they manage to stand alone without their non-vegan ingredient. If you ask for a veganized version at the bar, the staff will create an altered salad from scratch.

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Hum Salad: Artichoke Salad Price: VND180,000++ Ingredients: baby carrots, sundried tomatoes, artichoke heart, and red, green and yellow bell pepper, with vinaigrette, lemongrass and ginger on the side.

his island of peace and quiet is one of Saigonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more up-market dining experiences. It caters to a range of dietary preferences, with a number of vegan dishes on its menu. Set back from the street behind a high-walled walkway, Hum is all about top service in attractive, harmonious surroundings. Little private puddles of water lilies line its entrance, with bright red fish darting between the fronds. There are a number of salads to choose from on the Hum menu and our personal favourite is the Artichoke Salad. This unusual mix of artichoke heart, bell pepper, baby carrots and sundried tomatoes sits in the middle of a ring of artichoke leaves. They lie around the salad like petals to a flower, and look

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good enough to eat. The salad tastes slightly smokey. The artichoke heart works well with the tangy sundried tomatoes and the delicate crunch of the bell pepper. Three types of pepper are used â&#x20AC;&#x201D; yellow, green and red â&#x20AC;&#x201D; creating a colourful base to the otherwise monochrome dish. This salad is not raw, but seems to have been lightly stir-fried before serving. The plate is served with a sweet, citrusy dressing on the side, which changes the flavour base of the salad from subtle and wholesome to tangy and light. The ginger and lemongrass both appear to have been stored in some kind of neutralising liquid. They have a rounder, more palatable taste, and they bring an extra fragrance to the dish.

Prem Salad: Quinoa Salad Price: VND165,000 Ingredients: quinoa, coriander, mango, black beans, corn kernels, bell pepper and turmeric, with a honey vinaigrette.

alking into Prem is like stepping into a Nepali guesthouse. It lies at the end of a quiet hem, tucked behind lush pot plants and opening right onto the concrete with doors wide open. The lighting here is soft and the general vibe is peaceful, near meditative. The Prem menu is a mix of Indian, Nepali, Vietnamese and fusion cuisine, written on yellowed paper inside a handmade book. Each menu cover is different. The Prem Quinoa Salad has a sweet taste, based as it is on ripe, fruity mango, dotted with sweet corn kernels and tiny

pieces of bell pepper. The flavours blend well together, but without the tart, honey dressing this salad would be too sugary to our taste. A careful, homemade concoction of oil, balsamic vinegar and honey, balanced to create a slightly fragrant tang, the honey vinaigrette is served in a small bowl on the side and can be added to taste. This salad is not too heavy, making it ideal for a light and yet wholesome lunch. Served in a beautiful bowl next to a handmade cutlery container and on a light, hessian table runner, it is lovely to look at and delicious to taste.

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GreenS Salad: Vegan Broccoli Raisin Salad Price: VND55,000 Ingredients: Romaine lettuce, broccolini, red onion, raisin and vegan cheese, served with a homemade balsamic vinaigrette.

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reenS gets most of its business as a takeaway service, sending freshpacked salads around the city. It has two outlets, one in a quiet District 1 back alley and the other in the centre of Thao Dien, District 2. Their District 2 outlet is to be renovated this November as GreenS develops the sit-down side of their business model. At the moment, the key appeal of this salad bar is their food not their location. They keep it simple and rustic, prices are low and the ingredients used are well balanced. There are three vegan salads on offer, but most other dishes can be veganized by removing a single ingredient. Like Guanabana, GreenS bases its salads on a lot

of fresh, crisp lettuce and other vegetables. The Broccoli Raisin Salad is a simple, light mix of greens and red onion, lifted by the star ingredients â&#x20AC;&#x201D; vegan cheese and raisins. It is not the kind of dish that would stay with you for long, based as it is on lettuce, but it would be a great option for a light lunch or a snack. The raisins work well with the red onion and add a slight sweetness to the salad, while the cheese provides a bit of a tang, balancing the palate. The dressing is oily, but it has been arranged with the balsamic at the bottom so you can choose how much oil you want before mixing the two together. Perhaps some pine nuts would be a positive addition to this otherwise tasty salad.

The BoatHouse Salad: Black Bean Tostada Price: VND185,000 Ingredients: Black beans, lettuce, corn, jalapeno, black olives and guacamole, with a homemade salsa of tomato, onion, cilantro and lime, dressed in a citrusy vinaigrette and served in a homemade tortilla bowl.

itting on the Saigon River with the kind of view that would make you want to set up home right where you sit, The Boat House takes gold for location. The restaurant has added three new vegan salad items to what was already a vegan-friendly menu, developing fresh ideas and altering some of their house favourites. Of all the options on the menu, the Black Bean Tostada is the most exciting â&#x20AC;&#x201D; more like a Mexican feast than a light, healthy salad, despite its lettuce base. Served with three bottled hot sauces and a bowl of delicious chipotle salsa made on site, this salad sits cupped by a freshly baked tortilla, on a base of homemade Mexican black beans. A mound of lightly dressed iceberg lettuce is lain on top of the beans, bouncy and fresh, and a cluster of diced tomato, red onion, corn kernels, black olives and spicy jalapeno is scattered over it. The hot sauces bring spice to the salad, while the homemade salsa is more sweet than spicy. It tastes fresh, thirstquenching even, and works well with the crisp tortilla bread. On top of the salad lies a garnish of homemade guacamole, which adds a creamy texture to the otherwise light, crunchy salad. Jeff, Boat Houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s manager, says that this garnish and the salad dressing were designed with vegan customers in mind.

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Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

Cousins Now with a second restaurant, the well-established Tay Ho establishment Cousins is upping the dining scene away from the lake. Our mystery diner finds out what’s going on. Photos by Julie Vola

slice of West Lake gastronomy just took off in Ba Dinh as the Cousins gastropub spreads its wings downtown. Diners can expect more of the cosmopolitan euro-fusion in the unpretentious gastropub setting that made the original location famous. Located just north of the Lotte Tower, the concept is similar to its Tay Ho brethren but in a more urban setting. Tucked down an alleyway, the new Cousins’ enclosed patio dining area provides as much tranquillity as one could hope for in the heart of Hanoi’s business district. Cousins’ game is tasty mid-range European fare accompanied with a generous wine list. But in its unassuming location, Cousins doesn’t put on fancy airs. Similar to its original location, the ingredients are mostly imports. The ribeye steak for two (VND1.3 million) is certified Angus beef from Australia while the lamb rack (VND1.4 million) is from New Zealand.

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While the menu’s mainstay is French, touches from across Europe and the Mediterranean pop up across the menu. Spanish chorizo and scallops (VND280,000) are to be had along with falafel (VND100,000) and tabbouleh with gravlax (VND130,000).

The Meal We tried the lamb cutlet (VND310,000) with risotto, which was presented in less than five minutes from ordering. The cutlet did everything it was supposed to — tender and rare, there were neither good nor bad surprises. The same went with the beef bourguignon (VND330,000), which was cooked to near perfection. We paired the meat with a bottle of Parallele 45 (VND690,000) with hints of berries. The wine is mostly French — you won’t find any bargain Australian reds — with more fruity, spicy aromas than full-bodied flavours. While I normally take

my red meat with a rich Bordeaux, the wine selection works well with the restaurant’s light-hearted festiveness. The desserts take a more Eurasian direction with local goodies combined with the rich creamy stuff one would expect from a French gastropub. While the pavlova (VND60,000) and lemon tart (VND70,000) are par for the course, the pièce de résistance is the chocolate cake baked with Da Viet Dark beer (VND90,000). Cousins excels in having a well-rounded menu for tastes and budgets alike. It’s never exactly inexpensive — expect to spend at least VND500,000 for the full experience — but there’s flexibility with the splurge factor. With the best of day-to-day cuisine mixed in with the odd gourmet touch from across Europe, Cousins is a safe bet for a business casual lunch or laid-back date. The second location of Cousins is at #7 Ngo 58, Dao Tan, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

THE VERDICT

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Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food and Drink

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STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Xoi Xiu A Vietnamese staple, xoi or glutinous rice is eaten at any time of the day. One tasty version served up with meat can be found at Xoi Xiu. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Leah Rolando

herever you go in Vietnam, people are obsessed with rice. From rice at every family meal to rice noodles, rice porridge, sticky rice, fried rice, rice paper wrappers, dumplings, rice cakes to rice wine, it’s hard not to consume some form of rice each day. Of the many varieties of rice, sticky glutinous rice or xoi is a firm favourite. An indispensable part of this country’s culinary tradition, every traditional woman knows how to cook xoi, and will prepare it for special feasts like weddings and Tet. In Hanoi, xoi is as much a staple as pho or bun. In the morning, you will come across female vendors selling this carbohydraterich breakfast dish wrapped in banana or lotus leaf. This is the traditional version of xoi, which is rustic, simple sticky rice with natural ingredients grown in the villages of Vietnam, like beans, peanuts and corn. Yet people nowadays, especially younger people, also love the modern version with a wide range of mix-ins like chicken breast, steamed pork and egg. Many modern xoi eateries have grown in popularity in the past few years. It is said that it was only in the late 1990s that people started selling xoi with meat. Since then, both xoi with meat and rustic xoi have become a part of the culinary landscape.

Say it with Meat Like many others, I often head for xoi with meat for dinner or as a late night snack. And one of my favourite eateries is Xoi Xiu (145E Yen Phu, Tay Ho) run by a group of sisters born and raised in Hanoi. The eatery offers the normal, white version of xoi with various mix-ins such as char-siu pork or thit xa xiu, Vietnamese sausage — gio and cha — slow-cooked pork or thit kho, Chinese sausage or lap suong, paté, whole egg or omelette. You can choose your toppings according to taste. Yet the main ingredient, xoi, is always the star of the show. The sticky rice is fragrant and well-seasoned with the right amount of salt. It’s a winner for both taste and texture. “I have cooked xoi and run this eatery since 1995,” says Xiu, the eatery owner. “It has been more than 20 years and I have always been strict in picking the right type of glutinous rice or my xoi would taste bland. It’s a special type of rice from Hai Hau in Nam Dinh.” Among the toppings, I would recommend the thit xa xiu or char-siu pork, which is tender, juicy and flavourful. “We use pork shoulder to prevent the char-siu pork being either dry or fatty,” continues Xiu. “A balanced mix of sweet and savoury ingredients enhances the

flavour and the browning of the pork. I use the oil to slowly cook the pork and the browning colour of pork is natural.” What makes me more surprised is that almost all the mix-ins are prepared by the eatery itself, except for the Chinese sausage. “I had the idea of opening a xoi shop, and then I asked my sisters to prepare other toppings,” explains Xiu. “That way we can control the quality of what we offer to customers, and of course, our family members have jobs. That’s the way many traditional Hanoi families often work.” Among the mix-ins, their homemade Vietnamese sausage — gio and cha — is excellent. The cha has a pleasant cinnamon aftertaste. Another plus point is their papaya salad which is also delicious, with a taste that’s hard to find in other xoi eateries in town. As autumn starts giving way to winter, it’s nice to have something hot like a bowl of xoi. And Xoi Xiu is a great place to either stop by and enjoy your food while talking to the friendly ladies or pick your xoi up to go. Xoi Xiu is located at 145E Yen Phu, Tay Ho and is open from 5am to 10am for breakfast and from 4pm to around 10pm for dinner. A portion of xoi costs from VND15,000 to 55,000 depending on the mix-ins you choose

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Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

Twenty21one Recently opened, the swank, sophistication and cuisine of Twenty21One has gained itself some positive feedback. So what does our mystery diner think? Photos by Bao Zoan

n search of dinner, we hit up Twenty21one on Facebook for a reservation. Their response is fast and in 10 to 15 minutes we have a table booked for 7pm poolside. The restaurant is on the ground floor of stylish new ‘apart-hotel’ SILA in District 3. Parking is always important on date night for any number of reasons, so we’re delighted when we discover parking is underground and close to the lifts. The parking attendant even ushers us into the lift and presses the button for our desired level. It’s the simple things that keep us happy. As we head in, we’re pleasantly surprised that the door isn’t automatic, but is being opened by the restaurant manager who’s been anticipating our arrival. He’s

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pleasant and it’s a comfortable feeling not having to worry about explaining who we are and why we’re here. The main dining area is softly lit and the temperature is cool. The whole restaurant is done out in natural wood furnishings and polished metal giving it an industrial edge. But don’t get the impression the edge is stark and cold; instead, the place feels warm and romantic. One negative to the lighting we encountered is that it’s not Instagram-friendly. The pictures we took didn’t do the food justice. The manager leads us out of the main dining area a few steps up into what can be best described as a space. There’s a bar and then a row of tables along the window opposite which could sit at least 20 diners

comfortably. This area lends itself to small gatherings and parties, but is just as comfortable for couples. This is where we sit after we decide the poolside is too warm. Also, the sweaty bodies in view, seen working out in the resident gym, don’t do much for our appetites. Once seated, we’re given a glass of French sparkling wine and a trio of starters to enjoy with a basket of fresh crusty white bread and banh trang me (rice crackers) on the house. Finally, there’s a restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City where we don’t have to ask for it. The hummus proves to be one of the best in town.

Looking West, Looking East Whoever came up with the menu is a genius. In a city where couples are often mixed, satisfying both people's

THE VERDICT

13 FOOD

SERVICE

12 DÉCOR

tastes at dinner is a challenge. 21 has divided its menu into two sections — Looking West and Looking East. The Looking West menu has a notable mix of Greek, Italian and French options. While the Looking East menu covers more of the Asian continent with fare from both northeast and southeast. There are also four house specials ranging in price from VND495,000 for a ribeye steak and sides to VND270,000 for fish and chips. There are four desserts to choose from at VND135,000 each. My companion pre-orders the warm date cake with ginger gelato, which we squeeze in after our mains. While we mull over what to choose for our mains, we start on the half-litre carafe of Spanish merlot (VND150,000) out of which

we manage to eke four glasses over dinner. We settle on the beetroot salad (VND210,000) with rocket and mesclun, roasted beetroot, avocado, red onion, goat’s cheese, beet dressing, balsamic glaze and, something different, sunflower seeds. It comes out looking like an ice-cream cake. It’s nothing like anything we’ve seen before. It’s delicious, but what’s left looks like a dragon fruit that has had a head-on collision with a tour bus. If you’re planning on ordering this, think ahead, don’t wear white. Next up we go for the house special 21 chicken (VND355,000). It’s a crispy skin chicken with caper butter sauce, broccoli, rosemary and garlic potatoes. It comes out

sizzling and it’s huge. The flavour reminds us of mum’s Sunday roast. The meat is tender and it’s swimming in shallow savoury gravy, but somehow manages to keep its skin crispy. Finally, we have to try the Asian braised lamb shank with wasabi cheddar mash and charred broccoli rabe (VND185,000). Anyone who has the courage to meddle with a lamb shank by giving it an Asian twist, deserves a chance. It turns out incredible. Tender, fragrant, juicy. My only disappointment was I’d eaten all the crusty bread. In the end we spend VND1.04 million for a very memorable dining experience and 21 has just got itself another very happy reviewer. Twenty21one is at 21 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, HCMC

Food and Drink

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STREET SNACKER

HCMC

Banh Tam Bi A weird noodle dish from the Mekong Delta that mixes sweet and savoury, coconut sauce, pork and chilli, banh tam bi is a must try for anyone looking for something a little different. Words and photos by Zoe Osborne

anh tam bi or ‘silkworm cake’ is one of Ho Chi Minh City’s rarer delicacies, and although its name can make it sound daunting the reality is delicious. It’s made up of a range of ingredients that tend to sit in glass and metal bowls behind a typical street food display: white silkworm-shaped noodles next to barbequed pork, shredded pork rind, fresh herbs and cucumber. The dish comes from the Mekong Delta town of Bac Lieu, and it somehow manages to tread the thin line between dessert and savoury meal, making it not only one of the city’s rarest foods but also one of its most exciting. There are three well-known street food restaurants that sell banh tam bi in Ho Chi Minh City. Everyone I ask recommends one of these three, so I take a tour to all three shops and end up at Banh Tam Bi To Chau (271 Nguyen Trai, Q1). This shop is almost hidden, sitting back from the street with plenty of room to park the bike. I pull up in front of the display, with its large red letters, and walk over to the stand. They sell a number of dishes other than banh tam bi here, and the wide array of relative ingredients are all laid out ready to eat, like a strange buffet of dishes that I’ve never seen before. I spot coconut cream and my

mouth begins to water — it’s time to make my order. Like many of Ho Chi Minh City’s street food restaurants, the food is arranged at the front of the restaurant and the seating extends behind it. I take a seat in a wide, softly-lit room lined with mirrors. There are two types of chilli on the table, one with whole fresh chunks sitting in soy sauce and the other full of the garlic-chilli Saigon favourite, tuong ot toi. Next to the condiments are the regular staples — chopsticks and dessert spoons, napkins and the obligatory toothpicks.

Same Dish, Different Styles Banh tam bi varies depending on where you eat it, but the basic ingredients are always the same; tapioca-based noodles that are shorter, silky and fat like their namesake, sitting atop an enticing mound of fresh cucumber, Vietnamese mint and sweet basil. A ladleful of rich coconut cream follows, adding richness to an otherwise light plate. Little strips of barbecued pork and long, thin loops of glistening pig skin are laid over the noodles, followed by do chua and those token tiny pieces of deep fried red onion, or hanh phi, that adds a crispness to savoury Vietnamese dishes. The dish is garnished with a delicate spoonful of spring onions and dressed with

nuoc mam, which adds a fresh sweetness and lifts the flavour of the entire dish. Eyeing the two pots of chilli beside my plate, I order a mug of iced tea with my food and add a few spoonfuls of spice to my coconut cream. Banh tam bi is just as delicious if you try each element separately, as it is mixed together. The noodles have a glutinous, almost gooey texture, as you would expect from tapioca, and go nicely with the soft coconut cream. I’m usually not a fan of pork rind, but in this dish it is grated into slim strips, almost like glass noodles. It adds to the overall texture, mingling well with the crunch of the cucumber and the fragrant mint and basil. Something I love about Vietnamese food is its distinctive freshness, stemming from the wide range of herbs and vegetables that appear in almost every dish here. You can eat banh tam bi at any time during the day — every meal and every dessert is an excuse for a plate or two. The dish is not heavy but it is filling; not savoury but not completely sweet. Some vendors will add peanuts to the garnish for a nutty twist, and others will replace the do chua with a sprinkling of Vietnamese coriander. Banh Tam Bi To Chau is at 271 Nguyen Trai, Q1, HCMC. A bowl of banh tam bi costs VND40,000

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Travel

TRAVEL

CAMBODIA

Banteay Srei Vu Ha Kim Vy explores Banteay Srei, a district of Siem Reap, and discovers that its charm doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t lie only in the temples. Here lies the rural Cambodia of the past. Photos by Vu Ha Kim Vy 118 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com

PHOTO BY ANNA BELLA BETTS

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onnected to the Angkor Wat temple complex, Banteay Srei is a district located 32km northeast of Siem Reap in Cambodia. The roads are good and directions clear, so a trip from Siem Reap should take about 45 minutes by car or one hour by tuk-tuk. It’s also home to a 10th-century Hindu temple. Made out of red sandstone, a medium that lends itself to elaborate carvings, the temple is often described as the ‘Jewel in Khmer Art’. Yet, while Banteay Srei is popular with tourists, it’s the opposite of the touristbuilt extremities of Siem Reap. There’s no Pub Street, late-night revelling or seed. Instead it’s the kind of place where you find Cambodian rural authenticity with farms, ox carts, tractors and handicraft villages. A trip there will give you a chance to learn about Cambodian culture, food and lifestyle, with well-prepared homestays. Besides the temples, there is plenty to see in the area, such as the Kbal Teuk Community Forest, the Butterfly Centre, the Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity, the Cambodia Landmine Museum and much more. This makes it a perfect tonic to its high profile neighbour, Siem Reap.

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WHERE TO GO Banteay Srei Temples First built in 967, Banteay Srei is a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva. It was rebuilt and expanded in the 11th century, carvings were added in the 12th century and it was finished in the 14th century. The temple was rediscovered in 1914 and restored during the 1930s. It’s a masterpiece of carving technique on red sandstone and laterite. The entrance fee is included in the temple pass for the main Angkor complex, which is US$20 for one day. If you want to see this temple only, you will have to pay $20 anyway, so it’s best to combine the visit with trips to other sites. Other temple and holy sites include Banteay Samre, Kbal Spean and Phnom Bok.

The Butterfly Centre With more than 30 species of Cambodian butterflies, it’s the largest fully netted butterfly centre in Southeast Asia. It’s also an educational trip for children, as they

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can witness the whole growth process from egg, caterpillar and pupa through to adult. Banteay Srei Butterfly Centre is open daily from 9am to 4.30pm, and the admission fee is $5 for adults and $2 for children (five to 11 years old).

is also a mock minefield where visitors can spot the dangers. The museum is open from 7.30am to 5pm daily and the requested donation is $3 per person. The proceeds are used for mine-awareness campaigns and a rehabilitation and training facility.

The Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity

Kbal Teuk Community Forest and Srah Doun Riek

Considered the first nature preservation scheme in Cambodia, this centre is known for its wildlife rescue, animal rehabilitation and breeding of endangered species. You can find species under protection including pangolins, pileated gibbons and silvered langurs here. Offering 90-minute guided tours, the place is open from Monday to Saturday from 9am to 1pm. Guests are asked to pay a minimum donation of $3.

Kbal Teuk Community Forest is a new community-based ecotourism plan with a diverse range of flora and fauna, including bompong lok or pitcher plants that are carnivorous and capture small insects. Guided walks are available or you can take a boat trip from the forest to reach Srah Doun Riek â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a natural wetland and a popular picnic spot.

The Cambodia Landmine Museum

There are several handicraft enterprises in Banteay Srei, including basket weaving in Preah Dak Village, sugar palm wood carving, Khmer Nokor leather shadow puppets and Bayon Smile wood carvings.

Established by Cambodian Aki Ra, a landmine clearer, this museum has a collection of mines, mortars and other weaponry from Cambodiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s civil war. There

Handicraft Villages

Information WHERE TO STAY Banteay Srei has three homestay areas including Tbaeng (+855 964 710 141) with 15 local homestays, Bayon Smile (+855 979 412 832) with six local homestays and Run Ta Ek Ecovillage (+855 889 186 446) with six boutique homestays. Depending on the location of the homestay, guests will be able to enjoy appropriate entertainment activities, such as temple treks, cycling trips or farm visits. GETTING THERE Vietnam Airlines runs nine daily flights from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap. Visit vietnamairlines.com for the best-priced flights. From Saigon you can reach Siem Reap by bus, visit giantibis.com for schedules. From Siem Reap, you can either take a tuk-tuk or private car to Banteay Srei. VietJetAir is also now running direct flights from Hanoi to Siem Reap. Click on visitbanteaysrei.org for more info.

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Travel TRAVEL

NATIONAL

Inside Phong Nha

This month marks the start of the tourist season in Phong Nha, the home to Vietnam’s best-known caves. However, a trip to the national park is more than just an opportunity to explore underground caverns. Words and photos by Nick Ross

ver the last few years, Phong Nha has gone from a sleepy, outpost on the border with Laos to a full-scale destination. The reason? The spectacular limestone, jungle-covered scenery, and in particular the discovery and then opening to the public of Son Doong, the largest cave in the world. But people travel to Phong Nha for more than just Son Doong — entrance to the cave is restricted to a lucky 200 or so cavers a year who travel on tours organised by Oxalis. There are a host of other outdoor-based activities available in the area. When it comes to unadulterated nature, and getting off the beaten track and onto the not-sobeaten trail, Phong Nha stands alone. Even Lonely Planet likes the place — they now rate it as the second best destination in Vietnam. Here is a lowdown of what to do in the area. Most of the tours include the caves. And for those who aren’t so into dark, confined spaces, there are other options to while away some time.

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Phong Nha and Paradise Caves phong-nha-cave.com/tours/nationalpark

his is the basic for anyone visiting the area. Phong Nha Cave, long open to the public, is reached by boat from the main town. Lit up with coloured lights, it’s a nice introduction to everything there is to come, with rock formations given names like Buddha, Lion, Fairy Caves and Royal Court. Please note, the boat trip is nonnegotiable and costs VND350,000 for up to 14 people. Paradise Cave (Thien Duong in Vietnamese) is a step up in terms of the wow factor and requires an on-foot climb, but is worth every bead of sweat. The rock formations are spectacular, with wooden steps taking you down into the depths of the connecting caverns. Entrance is VND250,000 per person. The best way to see Paradise Cave and the National Park in general is with the one-day National Park Tour — the day’s activities include kayaking, ziplining into Dark Cave and swimming.

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Hang En Run by Oxalis oxalis.com.vn

he third-largest cave in the world can be reached by regular, twoday trips that include sleeping on a beach inside the cave beneath 100,000 swallows, traversing rivers, trekking through jungle, and clambering over rocks. There are impressive views, particularly the one of the cavern as you look through the far entrance of Hang En. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something prehistoric about this place, as if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re walking into a land once inhabited by dinosaurs. Visitors will be struck by the grandeur of the caverns. They are enormous.

Expedition Tours Run by Oxalis oxalis.com.vn

he ultimate tour, of course, is the five-day, four-night trip to Son Doong. However, this is oversubscribed and booked up well in advance. The other options, while not as spectacular, are breath-taking. Part of the Son Doong cave system, Hang Va and Hang Nuoc Nut share the same water flow. The landscapes and rock formations are remarkable, too. Two-day tours cost VND8 million per person. The four-day, three-night trip to Tu Lan, a collection of both dry and river caves in a cave system just outside the national park, includes dark-cave abseiling, bouldering, climbing and swimming through caves. All the food and accommodation for the expedition is carried by porters and there are chances for some epic photography.

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The Abandoned Valley Run by Jungle Boss junglebosshomestay.com

e’ve done a few of the caving day trips, and in our opinion, this is the best one day trip available. Taking you to a valley that was once incorporated into the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the guides lead you through jungle, past poison ivy and then into the back entrance of Dark Cave. Here you travel 300m or so into the pitch black-cavern, with head torches, safety equipment and guides. The trip then takes you back through the jungle to E Cave where you have lunch — a BBQ cooked over hot stones — before swimming 150m or so into the depths of the cavern. It’s echoey and scary being in the dark, but the water is fresh and cold, the ideal tonic in the tropical heat and sweat of the jungle.

Getting There Flights with Jetstar Pacfic, VietJet and Vietnam Airlines from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi go to Dong Hoi, the principal city in the province. Airport transfer to Phong Nha costs VND500,000. Another option is the open tour bus from Ninh Binh or Hue or the train from Hanoi. The train also stops in Dong Hoi while the bus goes straight to Phong Nha Town.

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Phong Nha Botanical Gardens ecophongnha.com

ome to Gio Waterfall, Vang Anh Lake, an exhibition house, an animal rescue zone and pristine forest, the gardensâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; diverse flora provides a rich habitat for a range of bird and mammal species. A 3km trek takes you through the 40-hectare gardens, and there are spots to camp out at dusk to observe wildlife as night falls. However, to fully appreciate the botanical gardens, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best to get yourself on the highly rated, one-day eco-conservation tour run by Mr. Hai. Taking you through the gardens themselves and to the animal rescue centre, the tour includes swimming in a natural pool, a BBQ lunch, 8km to 10km of jungle trekking and an insight into the ecological and conservation side of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park.

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The Bong Lai Valley phong-nha-cave.com/tours/bonglai

favourite trip for those wanting to take out a bicycle, Bong Lai Valley is a rural, hilly area outside Phong Nha with bad roads (part of the fun), and places to stop, chill, have a beer or two, and while away the countryside time. On the route is the well-known Pub With Cold Beer (they’re famous for their barbecued

chicken which is as fresh as it comes), Bong Lai Eco Farm, Moi Moi Restaurant and, if you want some locally grown pepper, Duck Stop. Another place to chill out is The Pepper House Homestay. An oasis of bungalows set around a swimming pool in an idyllic rural setting, the Pepper House is a good venue to stop for a few hours and enjoy being away from it all.

Accommodation There is loads of accommodation in the area today, both inside and outside Phong Nha Town, although the five-star or boutique hotel accommodation has yet to make an appearance. It’s mainly homestay or farmstay based — so in a rural or picturesque location, often in traditional-style houses. Here are some of our favourite spots:

P EPPER H OUSE H OMESTAY

pepperhouse-homestay.com

P HONG N HA F ARMSTAY phong-nha-cave.com

Cycling, Ural Tours and More Bicycles are available for rent or for free use at the guesthouses in Phong Nha Town and at the various homestays and farmstays outside the main drag. As cycling goes, the area is a little patch of paradise. There aren’t too many hills, and the paved roads are good quality. Although you need to be vigilant, there’s never too much traffic. There are also numerous trails through the paddy fields to small hamlets and villages reached only by unpaved roads, and the

Bong Lai Valley is a wonderful place to explore. Just expect to do a lot of bicycle carrying if you’re heading off-road during the wet season. Phong Nha Farmstay also conducts jeep tours and tours on old Ural motorbikes. Click on phong-nha-cave.com/tours/jeepural for more information. And if you’re feeling adventurous, the 200km-plus motorbike drive from Phong Nha to the next town down, Khe Sanh, is spectacular.

C HAY L AP F ARMSTAY

chaylapfarmstay.com

P HONG N HA L AKEHOUSE

phongnhalakehouse.com

H O K HANH ’ S H OMESTAY

phong-nha-homestay.com

E ASY T IGER H OSTEL

easytigerhostel.com

Travel

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort.com DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999

dalatgreencityhotel.com

Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365

dalattrainvilla.com

Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories. DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555 hanoi-daewoohotel.com

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This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property. FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396 hanoi.hgi.com With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller. HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500 hanoi.hilton.com Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888 hanoi.intercontinental.com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club. JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi.com From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre. MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville.com The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action. MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343 meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied. MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 moevenpick-hanoi.com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking. NOVOTEL SUITES 5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3576 6666 novotel.com/9813 Suites and apartments with all the mod cons and attrac-

tive décor you’d expect of an Accor property. Located close to My Dinh and 20 minutes from downtown Hanoi, this new property with an inhouse restaurant and bar is perfect for business professionals or travellers looking to mix a stay in Hanoi with the feeling of being located in a place you can call home. PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter. SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge. SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the

second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee. GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine. JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048 josephshotel.com Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices. MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar. MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKPACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372 hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006

list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections. EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino. HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777 hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade. LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON $$$$ 3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 6263 6688 lemeridien.com/saigon Marking the brand’s debut in Vietnam, Le Méridien Saigon is the gathering place for curious and creativeminded travellers. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon River, the property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and commercial areas, making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and community. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating surroundings. LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine. NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing

event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town. PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool. PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels.com Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility. RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1117 renaissance-saigon.com This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant. SILA URBAN LIVING 21 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3930 0800 silaliving.com Stylish apart-hotel with 217 apartments (from studios to one and two bedrooms) for short and long stays, close to the Reunification Palace on the edge of District 1. Facilities include a 24-hour reception, a 24-hour gym with a 20-meter swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and steam room. Western and Eastern specialties are served daily at Twenty-One restaurant and bar. SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon. WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture. NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

HCMC - MID-RANGE

room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel.com HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn.com

ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel.com.vn

M M M

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel.com.vn

HCMC – BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every

HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An anbangbeachretreat.com CUA DAI $ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/ DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam.com

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang.com Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa. VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090 villasong.com Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice.

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

he backpacker trail in Southeast Asia has legendary stop-off points at every step. Opened three years ago, the leafy, Easy Tiger hostel in Phong Nha has already etched itself a place in folklore. For any traveller’s haven to stand out from its contemporaries it needs to fulfill a variety of roles. First it’s the accommodation, drink and food. Easy Tiger has 108 dorm beds, each costing VND180,000 a night. Huda beer goes for VND20,000 a bottle, soft drinks are VND15,000 each and food — Western and Asian — is in the VND40,000 to VND100,000 range for a main course. This isn’t going to attract the five-star, all-luxury-included brigade, but despite their penny pinching ways, the budget traveller still has money to spend. With over 100 people a day cramming into this spacious establishment, that’s a lot of beer

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and meals we’re talking about.

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions Next it needs to be an information point, a place where people coming through the area can find out what to do in Phong Nha, can make the decision whether to visit the caves in Hang En, the National Park or take a trip with the Phong Nha Riders to Bong Lai Valley, a rustic untouched spot on the edge of Phong Nha. Easy Tiger is this and more. You want to book a tour? Here they can make the booking and push you in the right direction. Want to know where to go next? The staff will point you the way. Want to hop on or off the Open Tour bus to Hue or Ninh Binh? The sleeper vehicles now stop outside Easy Tiger.

Privacy, or the Lack Of The final need is for the establishment to be a

place to chill out. After all, if you’re sleeping in a dorm bed, you need somewhere to hang out that isn’t your room. There’s a swimming pool out back, a hammock area housed under a reclaimed traditional Vietnamese house, a pool table in reception, two beer gardens, indoor bench-like seating and a pay-as-you-go bar and restaurant ordering area. Attractive, Indochine-influenced contemporary murals are painted onto the walls, and a playlist with 1990s and 2000s Indie classics runs through the speakers. Lovecats anyone? Or maybe Mr Brightside. With the chill-out facilities all in place, and prices to match people on a budget, travellers don’t have much need to leave. Unless they go to the caves, that is. — Nick Ross For more information click on easytigerhostel.com

Easy Tiger

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hey say that location is everything. And in the case of Mia Nha Trang, location certainly makes this elegant, upscale resort stand out from its contemporaries. Set in a bay with a backdrop of soaring cliffs and a road winding its way above, there is something special about this little slice of paradise. Opened to the public in 2011, Mia Nha Trang has also become known for its contemporary, well-designed interior and its ability for its guests to find true peace, relaxation and comfort. Sat 18km from

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Nha Trang and close to Cam Ranh Airport, seclusion is a big part of the game here. If you want the big city, it’s a shuttle bus or a taxi ride away. If you want privacy, isolation, sun, sand, great cuisine and sea, then you may never need to leave.

The Villas The resort has now moved to the next level with the May 2016 opening of its new five-bedroom beachfront villas. Designed to complement the other accommodations in the property including the condos, villas

and suites, these new villas might just provide one the best group or large-family experiences you’ll have in a beach resort in Vietnam. Compared to other accommodations, each of these villas is huge — 475sqm huge. And that’s just the interior. Built over a threestorey building, each villa contains five bedrooms, one living room, one kitchen and one media room. Everything is designed for travelling with friends or family. The top floor consists of a living room, dining room, kitchen and media room,

Mia Nha Trang

PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY

equipped with full glass windows and sliding doors; the lower floors are for bedrooms including two king-size beds, two double beds and one twin bed. The 1,200sqm outdoor area will trigger your senses with a large infinity pool, a lounge area and a BBQ installation, next to picturesque scenery of mountains on one side and ocean on the other. A fully equipped kitchen is also available for those who want to maintain their daily family life with their favourite homecooked cuisine.

La Baia The five-bedroom villas are not the only new facility at Mia Nha Trang. La Baia restaurant opened its doors last month to resort guests and those from outside. Although the resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sandals restaurant serves a wider range of cuisine, La Baia focuses on authentic Italian classics and seafood. With an ocean view, La Baia is an ideal spot for an Italian coffee while catching the early morning rays, or a mango smoothie to cool down a hot summer afternoon, or a

creative cocktail on a breezy evening with the sound of the waves striking against the shore. Or if all you want is to have a swim while being able to socialise and enjoying your favourite wine and cuisine, La Baia has an infinity pool on the terrace. Mia Nha Trang might be more upscale than most other resorts in the area, but the landscape, ambience and experience it offers are priceless. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Vu Ha Kim Vy Mia Nha Trang is at Bai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa. Visit mianhatrang.com for more info

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Travel

Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool. MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang.com Set on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accormanaged property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix. THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

M M M HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

PHOTO BY VU HA KIM VY

BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 banyantree.com/en/lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy

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and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods. LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue.com PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel.com

M M M NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/destination 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa. JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384 junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature. MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang.com NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete

with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222 sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat. SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton.com/nhatrang

M M M PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727 ninhchubay.com Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination. BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322 blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach con-

tinues to be run by those who opened it in 1995. JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177 joescafemuine.com A leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix. MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440 miamuine.com VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

M M M PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night. HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135 phong-nha-cave.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

M M M PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season. MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar. SALINDA RESORT PHU QUOC ISLAND $$$$ Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: (08) 3929 3097 Hotline 0907 99 55 02 salindaresort.com Set on the sea and only 4km away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is inspired by an interplay of rustic local heritage with

contemporary design. The property has 121 rooms and villas with private balconies, and provides a luxury experience that embodies the understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl of Asia.

M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces. TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales) topasecolodge.com With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage.com CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort.vn HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi

Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools. HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours. REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau.com SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222 sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702 buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam.

BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours. EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150 exotravel.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays. HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828 handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations. HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844 hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (aa. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com). INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308 intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed

departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture. TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977 kien@travelsense.asia A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 buffalotours.com This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam. EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotravel.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers. GRASSHOPPER ADVENTURES Tel: 0946 704095 grasshopperadventures.com

Escape the bustle with Southeast Asia’s top rated bike tour company. Run guided day tours to the Mekong Delta and Cu Chi Tunnels. Also organize longer, two to 14-day tours throughout Vietnam. TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well. VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure.com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659 backofthebiketours.com Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience. BEENINASIA.COM beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary. TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling. vn Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.

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NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY

Despite mass development, Mui Ne is still a seaside idyll out of the postcards

Mui Ne is famed for its fishing port and its seafood

ui Ne was once a sleepy fishing town that few people had ever heard of. The solar eclipse of 1995 reversed all that; thousands of astronomers and curious tourists streamed in to observe the phenomenon. Since then, Mui Ne has undergone a major transformation, and is now one of Vietnam’s major tourist attractions. What is it about Mui Ne that attracts people? In a nutshell: sun, sea, surf, sand dunes and seafood. The 10-kilometre stretch of highway along the beachfront is now built-up with luxury resorts, hotels, restaurants, souvenir shops, mini-marts, beach bars, and nightclubs stacked side by side. It’s a dangerous stretch of road; taxis hurtle along with horns blaring and a casual disregard for pedestrians or fellow road users. An unfortunate feature of what is otherwise a chilled-out town. The sand dunes are one of Mui Ne’s prime attractions. The white dunes are 45 minutes away from town. The ever-changing dunes are sculpted by the ocean winds, and put you in mind of the Sahara. You’ll hear cameras clicking away non-stop. You’ll be besieged by children pressing their plastic sleds on you — good value provided you

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bargain furiously, and great fun. You can also hire dune buggies or quad-bikes, and even go ostrich riding. At 20 minutes away from town, the red dunes are more accessible. They’re smaller than their white cousins, attract more visitors, and so are more prone to litter and pollution. But they are spectacular at sunset.

In a Ferment

By Don Wills

Most visitors combine a visit to the dunes with a side trip to Fairy Stream. On the unfinished pathway to the stream you are assailed by the aroma of fish sauce fermenting in large clay pots — it’s one of Mui Ne’s specialities. The bed of the gently flowing stream is red mud, and the water itself is orangey-red from the clay and limestone particles that filter in from the surrounding slopes. If you wade the full two-kilometre length of the stream (it never gets more than knee-deep) you’ll encounter interesting rock formations and traverse a small canyon. The sand dunes are a bit too far to reach by taxi, but there’s an inexhaustible supply of jeeps or moto-taxis ready to take you there. Be warned — plenty of people fall prey to the drivers’ tiresome scams. “No, I

ENTRY 9:

One of the best known spots in the area are the white sand dunes

said fifty thousand, not fifteen thousand!” “The price I quoted is per head, not per trip.” “That was a little over 10 kilometres, so the price is doubled.” Wearying, I know, but you come across avaricious, scheming drivers in other countries as well. For many years Mui Ne was a magnet for Russian travellers, so much so it became known as “the Russian village”. The Russian influx slowed to a trickle in late 2014 with the meltdown of the Russian rouble. There are still signs that Russian tourists once flooded the town; shop and restaurant signs and menus are in English and Russian, and among the staff of the hotels, restaurants and big stores there’s usually at least one Russian speaker on duty.

Surf’s Up Mui Ne Beach and Suoi Nuoc to the north is a Mecca for water sports enthusiasts. Surf’s up from August to December, but that’s not to say the surfing is anything great — okay for learners, but not much more. No, wind surfing and kite-boarding are the attractions here. A strong cross-onshore wind creates the ideal conditions for them. If you’ve never wind-surfed before, no worries, there are plenty of wind-surfing

Mui Ne

International cuisine is a pound a penny in Mui Ne these days. This dish is from Joe’s Café

schools on hand. The 10km-long beach is lined with palm trees and blessed with blue skies much of the year round. The possibility of rain is minimal; Mui Ne gets just 50cm a year. Although the water is warm, it’s less than ideal for swimming. The waves can be unruly, and there’s often a strong rip-tide. It’s only in the very early morning or on the odd calm day that swimmers can do their thing without unduly worrying.

Mui Ne is 200km away from Ho Chi Minh City — four hours by bus. Or, you can take a train. Four trains a day depart from Saigon station bound for Mui Ne. They don’t go all the way though, only as far as Binh Thuan Station, 40km short of Mui Ne. To proceed from there you’ll need to take a taxi or bus. Born in New Zealand, Don Wills lives in Vung Tau. He’s been writing his way around the region for decades

"For many years Mui Ne was a magnet for Russian travellers, [but this] slowed to a trickle in late 2014 with the meltdown of the Russian rouble. There are still signs that Russian tourists once flooded the town; shop and restaurant signs and menus are in English and Russian, and among the staff of the hotels, restaurants and big stores there’s usually at least one Russian speaker on duty"

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Hanoi

Day Tripper: The Replica Village / The Alchemist / The Therapist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats / Medical Buff / Starting a Family / A World of Good Photo by Julie Vola

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Hanoi Essentials

ALTERNATIVE HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER karen@a-roamingbodyworker.com a-roamingbodyworker.com Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available.

HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi. Only available online, but a great information source.

M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM (BBGV) 193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 6674 0945 bbgv.org The chamber of commerce for all things relating to the UK and British-born expats living in the capital. Puts on monthly networking events, gala dinners, fundraising events and much more. CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.org ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham.org SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh sbav-hanoi.org

M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA

23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.

TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE

M M M

LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP

VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS

44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151

CLUBS & SOCIETIES

XUNHASABA

AMERICAN CLUB

ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

EVENT SPACE

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068

M M M BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM 4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790 amchamhanoi.com AUSCHAM 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994 auschamvn.org

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850 GOETHE INSTITUT GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251 goethe.de/hanoi HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP

hitshanoi.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub.com

HANOI OIS

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

NETBALL CLUB

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX

hanoinetball@gmail.com

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

L’ESPACE FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace.com

M M M CLOTHING BOO SKATESHOP SKATESHOP

THREE TREES

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147 booskateshop.com

JEWELLERY

CHULA 43 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho; 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 258960 chulafashion.com The work of Spanish couple Laura and Diego, this homegrown Hanoi brand describes themselves as creating wearable art. Designing pieces that are trendy, elegant, Western and yet distinctly Asian, their shop and arts space focuses on lifestyle, with regular events and more. CONTRABAND

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

AIR ASIA airasia.com

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

M M M

AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

AIRLINES

HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE

147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE

CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS

8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more. MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

L’ATELIER WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES

33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam.com Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in

SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

DAY TRIPPER

Edward Dalton visits the Vietnam National Village for Ethnic Culture and Tourism near Ba Vi. The experience is surreal

ocated near Ba Vi National Park, around 50km from Hanoi, the Vietnam National Village for Ethnic Culture and Tourism (VNV) is a world away from the daily grind of city life. Combining replicas of ethnic minority villages, a Khmer wat and ancient Cham temples, there is more than enough to see in this medley of monuments to make it worth a day trip.

Easy Riding The route to VNV is simple, and takes less than 90 minutes by motorbike with little traffic. The main highway to get there is a well-maintained stretch of tarmac, flanked by thick vegetation on both sides.

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This means you can spend more time appreciating the countryside, and less time scanning the road itself for potholes or homicidal bus drivers. Arriving at VNV feels strange, as vast, vacant six-lane roads connect the highway to the VNV complex, where empty parking lots stretch out as far as the eye can see. We approach a large stop sign, where I expect the security guards to tell us to go home. Instead, we are directed to the left and onwards into the ethnic villages area.

Is There Anybody There? Currently, 49 of Vietnam’s 54 ethnic minorities are represented by small individual village reconstructions, spread

across four zones. As we enter zone one, the ghost town atmosphere thickens. “Wow, the Hmong tribe! Their clothes have the most beautiful designs,” says my companion, before her enthusiasm is extinguished by the padlock on the Hmong house. Several tribes and several padlocks later, and still without a single other visitor or staff member in sight, we come across signs of life. In the Dao village, we find an open house, complete with rainbow bunting and national flag, flapping in the wind. After a Dao woman shows us how to cut wood for medicine, or tea, or neither, my companion

The Replica Village

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

tries to copy the technique. “Khong, khong, khong,” says the Dao woman, taking the wood and knife to demonstrate again. Giving up, we move on to another house, where we are invited in for tea. A Hanoian student, studying culture at university, joins our group and plays a song on his sao, a type of flute. The Dao village elder then begins a song dedicated to Uncle Ho, played on a dan tinh, a stringed instrument, while his friends sing softly and jingle bells.

Phony Schmony After leaving the ethnic village area, we come across a convincing replica

of a golden Khmer wat. The illusion disintegrates as we get closer, and find lashings of gold paint and plastic, but it’s still impressive and good selfie material. On the other side of the same area, an imposing replica Cham temple looms over the surrounding vegetation. It’s a taste of something otherwise inaccessible to those without the time nor money to travel south. In 2015 alone, Halong Bay welcomed around 2.5 million tourists. According to the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, VNV has welcomed around 300,000 tourists over the last six years. At the time of writing, the VNV Facebook page has six likes, while their

TripAdvisor entry has five reviews in total. This unfinished, ambitious project deserves more love than it now gets.

Getting There From Hanoi city centre, follow Tran Duy Hung southwest out of the city and continue along CT08. Around 13km after passing Hoa Lac, the entrance to VNV will be on the right hand side of the road; a huge billboard in Vietnamese and English on a roundabout — you can’t miss it.

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Hanoi Essentials

several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

CYCLING

Tel: (04) 3928 5190 artvietnamgallery.com Established in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks.

Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Daloc.vn LINHMART 116, D4 Dormitory, Giang Vo, Ba Dinh (near Ha Noi Hotel) Tel: 0936 491136 or 0916 504548 linhmart.com Stocks organic vegetables from Sapa, Soc Son and Dalat; seafood from Hai Phong and Quang Ninh; Norwegian salmon and highlands pork and beef. Also offers foreign spices and convenience store products from Japan and Thailand. Free delivery for any purchase above VND400,000.

DON’S TAY HO

MANZI

BICYCLE RENTALS

GALLERY & BAR / CAFE

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com

BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook.com/manzihanoi Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices.

70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941

NHA SAN COLLECTIVE

KITCHEN ART

GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS

KITCHENWARE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316 nhasanstudio.org The first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.

38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart.vn

GREEN BIKE CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST

15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES

34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS

THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES

29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156 thbc.vn

DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM

3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434 australiandentalclinic.com

NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM

PEACE DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286 peacedentalclinic.wordpress. com

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131 vnfam.vn Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts.

SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

WORK ROOM FOUR

DENTAL CLINIC

Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho workroomfour.com A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888 serenitydentalclinic.com WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

GALLERIES ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,

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HANOI GOURMET DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet.com

L'S PLACE

GROCERIES / DELI

First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366 JUST.IN.M WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER

48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907 LAN SALON Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC (ACC) CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS

44 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (4) 3265 6888 acc.vn/en ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems. BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

NATURALLY VIETNAM

HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam.com

136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717 bumrungrad.vn

ITALIAN DELI

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE

17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854 VEGGIE’S GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER

59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia.com

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DA LOC

DINH HAIR SALON

WINE RETAILER

HAIR SALON

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

The Manor, Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500

INDOCHINA PLAZA

241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596

LOTTE CENTER

54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3333 6016

lottecenter.com.vn PARKSON

Viet Tower Plaza, 198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666

PICO MALL

WINE RETAILER

THE OASIS

GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER

parkson.com.vn

RED APRON 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

SHOPPING MALLS

TOP-END SALON

3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

M M M ANNAM GOURMET

UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON

GROCERY SHOP

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

HAIR STREAM

JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH) INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL 32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3715 3666 jieh.vn JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested eye hospital. Using the latest technology and built according to Japanese standards, the facility is the first in Vietnam to use Mel 90 (Carl Zeiss - Germany), and is one of first three eye hospitals in the country using Visumax (Carl Zeiss - Germany) for refractive surgery. Top-end customer service and a friendly, contemporary environment add to the mix.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are

229 Tay Son, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 6682 0400

SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

trangtienplaza.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 9999

VINCOM ROYAL CITY

72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04) 3974 3550

used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service. FRENCH HOSPITAL

IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards.

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh.com.vn HONG NGOC HOSPITAL PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL

55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880 hongngochospital.vn INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care. VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL

12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231 VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec.com

INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370 insuranceinasia.com LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111 libertyinsurance.com.vn REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488

M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435 bishanoi.com A selective, independent, co-educational day school. Provides a British-style education following the National Curriculum for England, with students taking

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.org A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year. HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140 hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183 isvietnam.org A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students. SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2, Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4 Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel (04) 6666 1818 kinderworld.net/sis Provides an international education for students from primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all taught by qualified teachers. ST. PAUL AMERICAN SCHOOL HANOI Khu Do Thi Bac AnKhanh, An Khanh, HoaiDuc, Tel: (04) 3399 6464 stpaulhanoi.com.vn St. Paul Hanoi has developed a strong reputation for providing a high quality American education. An international school that collaborates with schools around the globe to set high

expectations and align with rigorous standards so that students will have a wonderful opportunity to attend a great university in the future. UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551 unishanoi.org Established in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A notfor-profit entity, UNIS aims for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment.

MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS ANH DUNG MOTORBIKE RENTALS

37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096 MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL

VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS & REPAIRS

17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.

M M M PROPERTY RENTALS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS

6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6332 fair-realestate.com GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS

R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589 gialonghousing.com HANOI RENTING RENTALS

No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828 hanoirenting.com

MOTORBIKE RENTALS

106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464 PHUNG MOTORBIKE MOTORBIKE RENTALS

13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105

LANLINH PROPERTY RENTALS

38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999 houseinhanoi.com

KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743 0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04) 3934 7243; C5 – C11, 1st floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209 kinderworld.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years. QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.org QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line

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THE ALCHEMIST LOOK DEEP

eauty is in the eye of the beholder, so the expression goes. In one episode of the American television series, The Twilight Zone, a beautiful woman tries to undergo a procedure to disfigure her face because the society in which she lives views her as ugly. It is her attempt to gain acceptance. At one point in the story, a doctor describes the woman’s face as “the face of her real self”. Although I would argue that a person’s face does not reflect their “real self”, the implied message is to look beyond the surface to see the beauty that lies within a person. I recently took part in a fashion show where professional hair and make-up artists augmented our facial features. The number of comments I received about how beautiful I looked led me to ask myself, am I not beautiful without the make-up and designer clothes? If left unchecked, this type of questioning can quickly wreak havoc on a person’s self-esteem.

Skimming the Surface Via the media, our family and social

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groups, we receive messages all the time about the concept of beauty. The majority of these messages depict only the superficial aspect of beauty which is subjective yet powerful and can lead to unhealthy self-perception. So how do we recognize the “real self” in others or even our own real self? Spiritual teachers often remind us that we are spiritual beings having a human experience. With this belief in mind we are asked to look beyond the physical body and recognize the Divine nature of every human being.

Divine Nature Namaste, a Hindu salutation, which has become popularized by Yoga and spiritual groups around the world, is an acknowledgement of our Divine nature and is a way of honouring and respecting that Divinity. If we looked beyond the surface to see a person’s inner beauty could there be hate, fear, war? If each of us were to recognize the Divine in the other and to embrace our own Divinity, the world

BY KAREN GAY

would be a much more peaceful place.

Child’s Play If you have ever watched small children as they encounter one another, you see them look into each other’s eyes, you see them smile, laugh and enjoy their coming together. Regardless of race or gender, they are enthralled with each other. I often wonder when and why this ease of embrace so often disappears. When doing healing work we are often asked to connect with our inner child to comfort and soothe that child in us that may have been wounded at some point in our life. This inner child is our real self, our Divinity. Is this what small children see when they look at each other, the beauty of their Divinity? If so, then for no other reason than this would it be a wonderful idea to connect with our inner child, and to bring it up from the deep to see the beauty in us all. Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

Hanoi

VIETLONG HOUSING RENTALS

21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203 vietlonghousing.com

M M M

Essentials

RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn.alliedpickfords.com The largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam. JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

MMM SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA & SPAS BODY&SOUL SPA House 71, Ngach 2 Dam Tri, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 241314 bodyandsoul.com.vn Body&Soul Spa Hanoi is located in a relaxing environment on the lotus ponds of West Lake, away from the confusion of Hanoi’s busy streets. Provides treatments including oriental ritual, massage, facial and waxing. ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

AGS FOUR WINDS

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762 agsfourwinds.com A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness.vn STUDIO FIVE YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515 studio5.vn VIETCLIMB CLIMBING CENTRE

40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass. ZENITH YOGA & CAFÉ YOGA & NUTRITION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 62 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem; Tel: 0904 356 561 zenithyogavietnam.com The oldest and most professional Yoga Studio in Hanoi, Zenith offers a vast variety of classes and levels in Iyengar, Hatha, Vinyasa, Ashtanga and Pilates while also offering Restorative, Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga, Meditation sessions, and Kundalini classes. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, clothes and yoga props, as well as a café serving up the homemade vegetarian meals,

cakes and coffee.

SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS

19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6273 3095 BOO SKATESHOP SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147 bosua.vn HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757 hanoisport.vn

SUPERMARKETS BIG C 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay; Garden Shopping Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem

bigc.vn SCORE-TECH 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

score-tech.net Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305 umove.com.vn

CITIMART Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617

metro.com.vn

THE THERAPIST IS PSYCHOTHERAPY FOR ME?

Dear Douglas, I am a Vietnamese woman, aged 31, who has lived for three years in Germany and returned to Vietnam one year ago. I have a lot of questions for you. Do you only work with expats or with Vietnamese patients as well? I have some problems that have been bothering me and I don’t know who to talk to. I called a local medical practice that is for foreigners in Ho Chi Minh City. They told me the fee for seeing a psychologist for one hour, but it is too much for me. Is it always expensive to see a psychologist? Also, in Vietnam seeing a psychologist is not normal and I wonder if working with Vietnamese patients is the same as working with foreign patients. Are people the same? — Wondering about psychotherapy and needing some help Dear Wondering, I am happy to answer your questions. About 90% of the clients (another word for patients) I see are English-speaking foreigners. The number of Vietnamese clients I see has increased a lot since I started six years ago. I am limited to English speakers because I have not yet learnt to speak Vietnamese well. One of the challenges for me is to find a balance in a country that has two or three different economies. I charge fees that are more in line with what would be paid in western countries, which makes it unaffordable for many people in Vietnam, not only Vietnamese. Many foreigners have insurance that will pay a percentage

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of the cost. For that reason I have a sliding fee for about 25% of my clients. A fee that is affordable for them. After one session, together we assess their need for therapy and a realistic fee that will allow them to continue to come. Another challenge is that many people from countries where therapy is less common, like Vietnam, are not sure what to expect from therapy. Often they are looking for expert advice or they come to consult about the problems they are having for one or two sessions, not realising that it usually takes several sessions to understand the problem and to work on changes that are long lasting. Because the cost is high they may hope to get “fixed” as quickly as possible. These assumptions are not totally false. Psychotherapists and psychologists know a lot about anxiety, depression, relationship problems and other mental health issues, but the therapeutic process is not only about exchanging information. Often, change happens when we pull back the layers to gain a deeper understanding of who we are and how to affect change in our lives. Research says that the “therapeutic alliance” is a key to the therapeutic process. I think it means that the trust and connection that forms with the therapist allows a person to look at and understand themselves more deeply. A client will feel that the therapist is supportive of them, without judgment or criticism. In the beginning the goals are to fully understand the problems and to clarify what changes the client would like to have.

BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA

Often we think not only of the shortterm outcome but how these changes can be permanent and affect the trajectory of a person’s life. We expect that to take time. It is most common for clients to expect to meet for six to eight weekly sessions and often much longer. Some clients will stay in therapy for a year or more. For some it is looking back at their life to understand how they have become the person they are. If there are traumas or negative messages that have impacted them it is important they revisit those experiences to understand what the impact has been. For others it is about the stress of their current life, work, relationships or moods that make life difficult. Psychotherapy is a practice that is more common in cultures where individualism is the norm, but people from collectivist and traditional cultures also have personal problems and difficult challenges, emotionally and in their relationships. Having a confidential and supportive place to sort out issues is important for all people… everywhere. Often, friends and family are enough — but not always. Wondering… I hope I have answered your questions and I hope you can find a qualified psychotherapist who can help you sort out your problems. Wishing you wellness, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

Hanoi On the Town

BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS +84 BAR CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/bar84hanoi Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta. 88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029 88group.vn A wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit. ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar. BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI

15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix. BARBETTA ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat. CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970 cama-atk.com With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

EDEN HANOI OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE

End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho facebook.com/edengargen When it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list. ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE

95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes. FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211 linkhanoi.com A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. FURBREW CRAFT BEER BAR

8B/52 To Ngoc Van, TayHo furbrew.com You like your home-style brews and you have a craving for an IPA, a pale ale or a wheat beer that you can’t get anywhere else. Furbrew is your answer. Six craft beers from the tap, all brewed by the venue, with a pleasant West Lake-like vibe to match. HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170 facebook.com/hrc.hanoi Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS CZECH MICROBREWERY

1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088 LE SOLEIL DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT

284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993 facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi Open late, Le Soleil has become a place to be seen,

especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early hours kind of person. Sofas, bar stools, menus on blackboards and neon-coloured lighting, there’s a grunge-style feel to the place, but it’s an ambience that Le Soleil’s customers seem to love. Has a pizza joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.

anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for. TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance. For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

MAO’S RED LOUNGE LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers. POLITE PUB

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

LONG BAR

5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool and live football matches. RED RIVER TEA ROOM

THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR

7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116 republic.vn A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favourites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly. ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR

61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087 facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.

THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE

19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901 therooftop.vn The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience. THE UNICORN BAR COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE

2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front. Now, as for the cocktails… TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL

199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty.

114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub.com A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi.

SPY BAR

VUVUZELA

HOLE IN THE WALL

MODERN BEER HALL

SIDEWALK HANOI DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922 vuvuzela.com.vn When Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept

CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho A trendy, deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers. CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE

2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. They also do coffee. COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean.com This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi. CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho congcaphe.com With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town. D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE

89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out

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BAR STOOL

f you fancy going for a beer and a game of billiards, on the far side of town, then head on down to Heyday Beer Club. Located deep in Ha Dong, Hanoi’s most populous suburb, Heyday is as much a premium watering hole as it is a symbol of the district’s development. Vinh, the establishment’s owner, started out opening the bia hoi restaurant across the road, and two years ago he decided to reach for something bigger. The four-storey beer club is kitted out with games, TVs and lounges and is one of the most contemporary bars in the area. Sitting on a corner overlooking modern

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houses that sport solar panels and big garages, from outside the building looks quirky. It’s difficult to miss the all-seeing illuminated pint glass and block capital lettering advertising the beer club when you turn on to Nguyen Van Loc. Inside, the walls are busy with abstract pictures, neon Budweiser signs and bottle caps moulded into wooden walls. It also sports two large TVs showing the latest football matches. If the first floor is too busy, which on a weekend it will be, then you can head to the second floor that follows the same design. The bar only serves beer; Vinh makes sure that if any new premium quality beer

becomes available in-country his bar will stock it.

Pub Games In holding with a classic pub atmosphere, all the best social games can be found here. Downstairs, a dart board and a foosball table are surrounded by eager punters, ready to wager on — or against — their drinking companions. A short elevator ride to the third floor takes you to a VIP lounge area with a goodquality pool table, speakers that connect to your iPhone and a balcony area. While you’re busy testing your skills on the table, staff are ready to bring an icebox full of beer from the

Heyday Beer Club

PHOTOS BY THEO LOWENSTEIN

bar, or some bar snacks. You can ask at the bar for details on hiring out this room. The lounge on the third floor is designed with dim lighting, sofas are dotted around the room and the red brick walls are interrupted by shelves littered with bottles of wine. After a splash of Dutch courage, you can make your way to the fourth floor to exercise your lungs with karaoke.

International Beer The selection of beers available is impressive — there are brands from Belgium, Germany, Japan and elsewhere. A Tiger or Saigon beer costs VND25,000, while a Corona

Extra is VND70,000. If you’re feeling more adventurous, German beer Stammgast will set you back VND115,000, Belgian dark beer Chimay VND145,000 and red ale Rodenbach Grand Cru VND350,000. If you come in a group, then you can take advantage of the bulk options; three litres of Tiger beer cost VND250,000, while the same measure of Heineken costs VND350,000. As if the beer and games weren’t enough for you, Heyday does top-quality food as well, including pizzas, spaghetti and Vietnamese dishes. A large ‘special pizza’ costs VND135,000 and comes with a full array of toppings. A plate of spaghetti Bolognaise is VND85,000

and a range of Vietnamese-style chicken, beef and duck dishes priced between VND100,000 and VND300,000. The food is all cooked to the standard that you would expect from an established restaurant.

Rose in a Thorn Bush Ha Dong isn’t known as being a hip spot on the weekend calendar, but as the area continues to develop, its nightlife is becoming more inviting. Heyday is a glimpse of what the future holds. — Billy Gray Heyday is at LK3C1 Nguyen Van Loc, Ha Dong, Hanoi, just off Tran Phu. It’s open 9am to 11pm and until midnight on weekends

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COFFEE CUP

any Vietnamese coffee drinkers are casual about what goes into their daily brew. But for one man from Dalat, it is unthinkable that consumers in the second-largest coffee exporting country in the world have to drink additive-filled coffee. Back in 2012, Nguyen Duy Bieu started to realise his ambition by selling coffee from a bicycle on the streets of Hanoi with a single promise; genuine and plain roasted Arabica coffee. Four years later, Reng Reng Café, named after the sound of his stolen bicycle’s bells, is now among the most lively coffee shops in town, counting

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investment fund managers and students as regulars. Located off the military street of Ly Nam De, from outside Reng Reng Cafe could be mistaken for a private house. Inside, the décor is minimal; a big wooden table to be shared on the ground floor, a number of mini coffee tables, stools and a narrow balcony on the first floor.

Mellow Roast Its small size is similar to that of established coffee houses yet with a touch of elegance and without all the smoke and noise. Even its soft-spoken and courteous

staff blend in well with such a mellow atmosphere. Reng Reng uses the espresso brewing method for all its offerings, including nau (meaning brown) the Hanoian way of referring to the quintessential Vietnamese drip coffee ca phe sua da. There’s a full range of Italian coffee from ristretto, lungo and Americano to cappuccino and latte, all priced at VND35,000 or under. They come in four degrees of roast (from light to dark): City, Full City, Vienna and Italian to suit any palate. My favourite is the Ba Na, a worthy Vietnamese version of Vienna coffee where

Reng Reng

PHOTOS BY LEAH ROLANDO

fresh milk is substituted with condensed milk and Anchor cream is added as-is without being whipped. I often take Ba Na with an extra shot of espresso to counteract its sweetness and creaminess.

Elevated The beans served at Reng Reng are sourced from Bieu’s family Arabica plantation in Lam Ha, Dalat. It lies in one of the few areas in Vietnam blessed with the right elevation and weather to produce these high-value but finicky beans. His parents started planting coffee in 1999 hoping to get rich but gave up

without much success. Only after Bieu became known in Hanoi and opened his shop did they go back to growing coffee; his younger brother also joined the team as a roaster. This time, it is with a clear vision of organic farming that the family approach the coffee trade. By raising the bar with his quality Arabica beans, Bieu hopes to promote responsible consumption which in turn will help push farming practices more towards sustainability. And he aims to do so in other Vietnamese cities as well. With such a lofty goal, Reng Reng Café was set up for proper coffee enjoyment

rather than as a hang-out. Thus, there is no Wi-Fi and the popular sport of Facebook check-in is discouraged. If you’re taking your coffee with sugar, it must be Vienna roast or darker. If you want to smoke, please go outside. Bieu is very picky about how coffee should be enjoyed, and how customers should behave in his shop. Still, if you want to set new standards in an industry where entrenched bad practices prevail, there’s nothing wrong in being choosy. — Tran Cam Thu Reng Reng is at 17 Ngo 12 Ly Nam De, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

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Hanoi On the Town

d’Alice and its quirky interior. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy. DUY TRI VIETNAMESE CAFÉ

43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned. HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ

If you like your coffee brewed in different styles and made with hard-to-find blends, this on-the-edge of the Old Quarter cafe is a dream. When it comes to good old caffeine, this small yet homely, vintage-styled cafe stands on its own. Also boasts and excellent selection of teas. KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt.

COURTYARD CAFE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard, aircon dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the all-day breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea. HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE

2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN

5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee.com.vn With numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam. JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY

22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations. KAFEVILLE COFFEE SPECIALIST & CAFE

22 Nguyen TrungTruc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0906 221030

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MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook.com/manzihanoi A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too. MAISON DE TET DÉCOR LIFESTYLE CAFE

36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722 tet-lifestyle-collection.com On-site coffee roasting, comfortable seating arrangements, rustic style furnishings and décor, and a focus on healthy, non-processed foods. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor, and it’s a popular one, too, as witnessed by the size of the clientele. Also run occasional farmers’ markets. MOC CAFE CAFE / INTERNATIONAL

14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

SAINT HONORE

ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE

VEGETARIAN / VEGAN

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times. SPACEBAR COWORKING CAFE

Nha 15, 76 To Ngoc Van, TayHo clickspace.vn/spacebar A pleasant, ground floor cafe with an outdoor terrace that sits below offices and a co-working space. Serves up coffee, juices, breakfasts and western-style cafe fare. Perfect for work, Wifi, a bite to eat and coffee. TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection.com Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations. THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace. YOLO FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE

PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE

16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night.

32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops Boasting an abundance of communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout. Open 24 hours.

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561 zenithyogavietnam.com A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.

EAT AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup.com AMATO TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE

1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01227 367470 Located next to Binh Minh Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion tapas bar by night and a French restaurant during the day. Tiny, hip and yet surprisingly spacious, Amato offers an international dining and drinking experience in the heart of Hanoi.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.

ASAHI SUSHI SUSHI RESTAURANT

288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi.vn CAFÉ 129 MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD

129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment. CHOPS GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER

4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6292 1044 chopsvietnam.com Finally Hanoi has a dedicated gourmet burger joint, and

this West Lake eatery with its fan-cooled atmosphere get it just about right. This is comfort food at its finest. Served up with locally brewed craft beer, and this one’s a bit of a winner. COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098 facebook.com/cousins.hanoi A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula. DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN

18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available. DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list. EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho.com.vn With venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade

meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service. There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of. FOOD EXCHANGE INTERNATIONAL BUFFET RESTAURANT

5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3576 6666 accorhotels.com/9813 Food Exchange offers up a well-priced international buffet for breakfast, lunch and dinner with a live cooking station. Excellent Asian and Western cuisine set in a contemporary restaurant with trendy décor and a chilled out ambiance. FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN

59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959 foodshop45.com Lakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. FRENCH GRILL

greentangerinehanoi.com A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines. HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC

5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam. Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal! INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN

10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668 indiapalacehn@vnn.vn Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

TOP-END GRILL

JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 facebook.com/frenchgrill With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital. GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286

J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONAL

G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner

functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

and booth-like seating on the upper floors.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

LA BADIANE

STEAKHOUSE / GRILL

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup.com An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list. JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup.com Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World. KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au The restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof. KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery. Has a bar area downstairs

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509 labadiane-hanoi.com On entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia. LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN

5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950 lasalsa-hanoi.com A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi.com Situated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese-French fusion cuisine. LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary

French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris. LINGUINI FINI ITALIAN-AMERICAN

36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3266 8968 linguinifini.com/en/hanoi With branches in Hong Kong and Manilla, the contemporary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam. Sleek modern décor, high quality cuisine, home-made pasta, reasonable prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal, as are some damn fine pizzas. LUNA D’AUTUNNO

serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven. MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

CLASSIC ITALIAN

27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338 lunadautunno.vn This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list. MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE PAN-CHINESE

Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.vn Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH

11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 cafe-des-arts.com A contemporary and chic three-storey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys. Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails, foie gras, lobster, scallops, chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini. Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials board. MOOSE AND ROO CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever changing imagery on the walls.

MEDITERRANEO

MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE

PAN-ITALIAN

AMERICAN GRILL

23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral

The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470 mooseandroo.com

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TOP EATS

n a quiet Hanoian street in an unassuming green restaurant, Giang Nguyen surveys her little diner from behind the serving hatch. She is the type of restaurant owner who loses sleep if a customer is less than satisfied. At May Taste (18C, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho), however, this rarely happens. Now in its third year of operation, the menu offers quintessential Hanoian cuisine alongside Vietnamese dishes from other regions. And for vegetarians, this is a place where the meatless options are more than a box-ticking afterthought.

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Feels Like Home The customer service at May Taste is superb; softly spoken staff smile and nod as they take an order, and there is always someone keeping an eye on the tables, but far enough away as to not feel overbearing. The interior is a pleasant place to while away the hours. Inside, a homely, modest atmosphere is created by soft tones, paintings and wooden furniture. The single exterior table is a good place to sip a coffee and watch the world whiz past. A recent partnership with the Bangkokbased Simple Coffee Company has added something extra special for the coffee

connoisseurs, as May Taste now features a pour-over coffee bar, and offers quality coffee beans to be purchased in various blends for use at home.

Something for Everyone First up is the secret garden of eggplants (VND120,000), one of the vegetarian dishes on the menu. A well laid-out dish of stuffed tomatoes and eggplant, it titillates the eyes and tongue in equal measure. The soft, gently spiced texture combines mushrooms, tofu and eggplant with other minced vegetables and cinnamon for a distinctive taste. For the carnivores, the roasted chicken

May Taste

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

with May sauce (VND100,000) is a simple and satisfying meal, consisting of tender chicken encased in crispy skin, with a rich, savoury sauce made from red wine and coconut cream. In May Taste, the cha ca Hanoi (VND145,000) takes the traditional recipe and gives it a twist. The result may have purists up in arms, leaving everyone else to enjoy this famous fish dish, packing dill, turmeric, nuoc mam and galangal root into a substantial ready-to-eat portion. May Taste is the only restaurant Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve found in Hanoi which serves hotpot for one person, which is available in five varieties.

The mushroom hotpot for one (VND120,000) is a flavoursome bubbling broth, served on a neat wooden block with a substantial pile of fresh vegetables, tofu and mixed mushrooms; just right for when autumn starts flirting with winter.

A Little Extra Goes a Long Way May Taste have revived the set menu May Taste utilises the set menu concept, so every order gets a free bowl of vegetarian soup to start and a piece of fruit to finish. Most dishes on the menu also include a salad bowl and portion of rice, while others even include a free lemon juice.

The best aspect of this little restaurant is the personalised service. Whether you want more or less of a specific ingredient, or something cooked in a different way than the menu offers; Giang and her team are always ready to fulfil customer requests, and all feedback is taken to heart with a grateful smile. Although delivery is available, this would deprive you of an enjoyable experience which proves that smart service and bright smiles really do go a long way. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Edward Dalton May Taste is located at 18C Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Hanoi

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MEDICAL BUFF COUGH MEDICATIONS

’m often amazed by the lack of knowledge of parents about the medications they give their babies. Many parents don’t know why they give the medication, what it’s good for, or even bother remembering the medication’s name. Here is something doctors and pharmacists won’t tell you; most cough medications don’t really work. Coughing is one of the most common reasons for doctors’ visits. And as common as it is, sometimes it can be difficult to diagnose the cause:

1) Infections The most common cause of cough in children and adults are infections of the respiratory system (nose, sinuses, throat, bronchitis, bronchiolitis, pneumonia) and the most common of them are viral infections, causing cold or flu symptoms. Viral infections do not respond to antibiotics but unfortunately, many children with simple colds still receive them. Bacterial infections are less common (sinusitis, throat infections, pneumonia, pertussis.)

2) Post-Viral Syndrome Some children might continue coughing for several weeks even after the viral infection has resolved. The cause is not clear, and usually the cough gradually improves with time.

3) Environmental Factors Air pollution is one of the most common causes of chronic respiratory problems — children exposed to air pollution will suffer

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from chronic stuffy or runny nose, chronic sinusitis, chronic cough and a higher risk for asthma, allergies and enlarged adenoids and tonsils, which make everything worse. Saigon and Hanoi are among the top most polluted cities in the world and if you live in either city and don’t cough, something is wrong with your lungs. Construction sites are everywhere and if you happen to live next to one, you and your children are bound to suffer. I had quite a few little patients who suffered from persistent asthma that was very difficult to control until the construction near their homes was finally over. Living near a busy highway or road will also take its toll on yours and your children’s lungs.

4) Smoking Children of smoking parents suffer much more from respiratory problems, infections and asthma than children of non-smoking parents. So if you or your husband/wife are smokers — you are going to see your paediatrician quite often.

5) Asthma Asthma is one of the most common causes of cough. More than 10% of children suffer from asthma and still, it’s one of the most misdiagnosed conditions. It can be mistaken for bronchitis, bronchiolitis or pneumonia. Many parents (and doctors) think that asthma always comes with wheezing or breathing difficulties. Actually, the most common symptom of asthma is just a cough, a prolonged cough, and when you listen to the child’s lungs they may be

BY DR. JONATHAN HALEVY

clear. Asthma does not respond to regular cough or allergy medications, and some may even worsen asthma (e.g. cough suppressants) When do we need to suspect asthma? — If the child often suffers from prolonged coughs — If the child is repeatedly diagnosed with pneumonia or bronchitis — Coughs that tend to get worse at night-time are typical of asthma. — Coughs that are triggered by running, exercise or even laughing — If the child has other atopic conditions (atopic dermatitis; allergic rhinitis) — If there is a family history of allergies, eczema or asthma — If a member of family is a smoker. Even if a parent smokes outside, the child is still exposed to smoke particles and has a higher risk of developing asthma — If a child lives in a highly polluted environment (like Saigon or Hanoi). Children who live near busy roads have a higher risk of developing asthma and other respiratory disorders — A child born via C-section has a 37% higher risk of developing asthma and allergies — If the child had a history of wheezing, breathing difficulties or treatment with inhalations or steroids in the past If your child has any of these factors and he or she is suffering from a prolonged cough — asthma may be the cause. Dr. Jonathan Halevy is a senior paediatrician at the Family Medical Practice (FMP) in Ho Chi Minh City. For more info on FMP visit vietnammedicalpractice.com

Hanoi On the Town

There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides. Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town. MOTO-SAN UBER NOODLES

4 Ly Dao Thanh, HoanKiem Ramen, stewed pork banh my, ha cao dumplings and banh my trung, all served up in an eclectic, Berlinesque setting a stone’s throw from the Opera House. Add in a beer, a G and T or a coffee, and this is the perfect munchie-satisfying joint to keep you going at any time of the day. NAMASTE HANOI PAN-INDIAN

46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi.com The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semioutdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it. NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11.com.vn Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an

in-house sommelier. OLD HANOI GOURMET VIETNAMESE

4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337 hanoixua.vn/en Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout. PANE E VINO PAN-ITALIAN

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 facebook.com/panevinoHN Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner. PIZZA 4P’S JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01208 034444 pizza4ps.com Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japaneseinspired pizzas that break all the rules, the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch, a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. All pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh, local ingredients. POTS ‘N PANS CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans.vn Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private

chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi. SAINT HONORE BOULANGERIE / BISTRO

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore.com.vn This bakery and Frenchstyle bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk. THE KAFE CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245 thekafe.vn Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community. WANNAWAFFLE WAFFLES

27 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem; 138 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; Unit 108, Indo-

china Plaza, 241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay facebook.com/wannawaffle Waffles, but not as you know it. Here it’s about taking this humble dish and recreating it in a contemporary environment in as many ways as is humanly possible. Ever had a matcha waffle? What about a waffle stuffed with cream cheese and smoked salmon? How about a banoffee pie or a pizza waffle? Wannawaffle serves up all these creations and much more. WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hue-influenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City. ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN

247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561 zenithyogavietnam.com/ zenith-cafe A vegetarian and vegan café connected to Zenith Yoga that respects yoga philosophy. Simple living, mindful thinking and 100 percent natural ingredients, all the food here is served up without additional additives or MSG and using only fresh seasonal products. All dishes are made in house.

STREETFOOD

BIT TET NGON SO 5 VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK

20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO

67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA

1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK) COM RANG DUA BO

57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da MIEN TRON HANH MIXED GLASS NOODLES

7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES

54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO

48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem PHO CUON HUNG BEN PHO CUON

26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA

7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA

1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO

49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO

10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem PHO THIN LO DUC SAUTEED BEEF PHO

3 CHI EM PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM

18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho

13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung PHO TRON MIXED PHO

14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem

5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem

BANH DA TRON

PHO TU LUN

BANH DA TRON

PHO BO

BANH CUON HANG GA BANH CUON

6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

BANH MI 25

XOI HANG HOM

STREETSIDE BANH MI

STICKY RICE

25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem

44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 159

STARTING

FAMILY

POWDERED MILK VS. BREASTFEEDING

reast-feeding in public has become one of those controversial debates. A recent incident in Claridge’s Hotel in London where a woman was asked to cover up while breast-feeding may have sparked the controversy, with the reach social media has these days. I believe breasts are natural, I believe feeding your baby is natural, but I don’t believe that breast-feeding in public without covering up is natural. There is a reason we all wear clothes, it’s the same reason we have private cubicles in the bathroom. We’re all doing the same thing in the bathroom, so why do we have stalls, why don’t we just have toilets? Because we don’t need to see what you’re doing in there, no one wants to see you changing your tampon or pad. Having a baby attached to a nipple does not make a breast innocent, not in this sexualized world we live in.

Blanket Coverage If it’s not ok to pop out your breast in front of strangers,

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why is it alright once there is a baby attached? It costs nothing to put a small blanket over your baby and breast and it saves people the discomfort of having to avoid looking in your direction. Having said all this, while I’m against breast-feeding in public without covering up, I’m 100% for breast-feeding infants exclusively for at least a year, if you’re able to. But recent studies in the Asian market have shown a dramatic decrease in rates of breastfeeding. Research shows that there have been studies made that claim to prove that powdered milk accelerates the growth of a baby; they are able to walk at an earlier age, talk, read and are smarter than their peers. So deep is this belief that powdered milk is better for babies than breastfeeding, that stores in Holland started selling only one can of formula per person due to a shortage, which was brought on by the 2008 melanin formula scandal in China where six infants died and 300,000 made seriously ill. This created an increased demand for overseas formula which could not be met, causing a limit on the amount of formula one could buy.

Formulation So why has there been such a rise in the demand for powdered milk? It has been said that the formula companies have been aggressively pushing their formulas onto low-paid doctors who are susceptible to

BY LEE SHAYI

an extra bonus and to hospitals who could do with a generous anonymous donation. Nurses are also able to make a commission on each can of formula they sell. While there are doctors and hospitals who are against the use of formula so early on after giving birth, they cannot compete against these tycoons and massive formula brands in court. These companies can work around the legalities of each country as has been seen in the Philippines and Vietnam. Another cause of the decline of breastfeeding is the fact that many women are now breadwinners in their homes as much as their husbands, and families need both incomes. Very few women can stay at home and exclusively breast-feed for months. For women and mothers that need to get back to work as soon as possible, powdered milk offers a relief from the duties of breast-feeding. Contrary to popular belief, a mother’s milk has and always will be the best for your baby. The benefits of breast milk are endless with regards to your child’s health and nutrition. It also decreases the risk of infant mortality, and boosts the child’s immune system and tolerance to disease and illness. It doesn’t hurt that it also helps mothers get rid of that extra baby weight a lot faster. If you’re able to breastfeed, it may be the best thing you can do for your child in the early stages of their life. If you have any comments or queries, please email me at lee@wordvietnam.com

A WORLD

THE PEACEMAKERS PROMISE

y the time you read this month’s column, there will be a new president-elect of the United States. She will have earned every debate, every speech and every vote that put her there. I say that because the virulent sexism of her former opponent — and the nominee chosen by the Republican Party — is repugnant. Advocating for and grinning about the sexual assault of a woman is criminal. For those who still can’t wrap their head around that, here’s something to help you out. Each Nov. 25 marks the International Day for the Elimination of Violence against Women, which is the annual kick-off to ‘16 Days of Activism’. The campaign ends Dec. 10 on International Human Rights Day. It’s coordinated each year by the Centre for Women’s Global Leadership and recognised by the United Nations.

Spreading the Funds Started in 1991, this year is the 25th anniversary of ‘16 Days’, but I have mixed feelings about this. It goes without saying there should be zero need for anti-violence campaigns and certainly after a quarter century of activism. The problem is that funding for preventing and ending violence against women and girls is decreasing globally as programme budgets are slashed, emergency shelters shuttered

and outreach activities all but halted. The Association for Women’s Rights in Development (AWID) studied this funding issue around the world and discovered that the median budget for a woman’s organisation was US$20,000. Of the 740 women’s organisations surveyed, their combined income was US$106 million. Now compare that to World Vision whose income in the same year was US$2.6 billion. Save the Children clocked in at US$1.4 billion. This cash-starved reality flies in the face of what AWID says should be obvious to all; women’s movements are key drivers defending women’s human rights and gender justice worldwide. This situation also puts certain targets in the Sustainable Development Goals at very real risk of not being achieved such as increasing gender equity and education, or improving health and wellbeing, let alone ending violence. Without financial support for global women’s rights there can be no significant change in the lives of women and girls. This is one of the reasons why this year’s ‘16 Days’ theme is raising money for gender-based violence programmes. The campaign’s official colour is orange so ‘Orange the World: Raise Money to End Violence against Women and Girls’ makes for smart and highly visual campaign tactics like lighting up key buildings and landmarks in a show of tangerine-coloured international solidarity.

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

What You Can Do You can string orange lights in your yard or on your balcony. You can provide pro bono services like legal or accounting or design support to women’s organisations working with groups routinely threatened by violence but typically rendered invisible, such as young women, disabled women, the elderly, LGBTQIA and ethnic minority women. Does your workplace have a matching programme for staff fundraising initiatives? Wear orange and tie a ribbon to your motorbike. Use the hashtag #orangetheworld to demonstrate your commitment to women and girls. Talk to your friends, family and colleagues about why you’re taking a stand against genderbased violence. Educate yourself about not only female genital mutilation and domestic violence, but cyber bullying, and sexism at work and in our schools and the media. Download the ‘16 Days of Activism’ tool kit for other ideas and resources. Ending violence against women and girls is about celebrating and supporting the creativity and agency of activists, survivors and communities around the world. There is no room in freedom for misogyny, bigotry and inequality. It is time to make our peace in the home to peace in the world. Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, an award-winning nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 161

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Tay Ho Weekend Market Van goc To N

Dam Tri

Ho Chi Minh City

Day Tripper: Chua Chan Mountain / Body & Temple / Location, Location, Location / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats A / Top Eats B / A World of Good / Know Your City Photo by Bao Zoan

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HCMC Essentials

BAKERIES

BOOKSHOPS

ABC BAKERY

FAHASA

BAKERY & CAFÉ

VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 phamngulao.abcbakery.co Baguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available. BREAD TALK

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1 fahasa.com Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related products. Has a good selection of ESL texts.

fective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam. NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham.com PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn.com

CHAIN BAKERY

106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 breadtalkvietnam.com A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting. HARVEST BAKING

LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com

AMERICAN BAKERY

harvestbaking.net With a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details. L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery.com.vn TOUS LES JOURS

PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 pnc.com.vn Although there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese. Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.

M M M BUSINESS GROUPS

BAKERY & CAFE

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 touslesjoursbakery.com The background of this Korean bakery chain makes interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Has over 25 locations in Vietnam. VOELKER BAKERY

39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

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AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562. amchamvietnam.com AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an ef-

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org

M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

LITTLE ANH-EM BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories. L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles. MANDARINA TAILOR-MADE SHOES

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

ANUPA ECO LUXE

ORANGE

LEATHER & JEWELLERY

BUDGET CLOTHING

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm PAPAYA BUDGET CLOTHING

232 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com T&V TAILOR TAILORS

39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com

BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET

174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

U.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse.com

BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING

1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 GINKGO VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING

10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com

VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

M M M CORPORATE GIFTS AMBRIJ 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com A one-stop-shop concept company providing marketing services including POSM, corporate gifts and luxury ranges of business gifts

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

from international brands like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881, Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix, Ungaro and more. Also do event management services.

M M M COOKING CLASSES

AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com

OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days. SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class. VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

M M M LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com

TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

HOME FURNISHINGS

175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories. EM EM SOUVENIRS

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm FEELING TROPIC FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

CRAFTS & FURNITURE

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-creations.org

ATC FURNITURE ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE

268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946 atc-craft.com

NGUYEN FRERES NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS

2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm MEKONG QUILTS

AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn

CHI LAI

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023 austinhomeinteriors.com This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

HAND-MADE QUILTS

1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts.org NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115 nhaxinh.com

PLASTIC SURGERY AND COSMETOLOGY

IMPROVE

YOUR BEAUTY

WITH FRENCH PLASTIC SURGERY SPECIALIST DR. ALAIN MICHEL

A sexy bosom, slim waist, exquisite nose or fresh skin… are no longer dreams out of hands. Dr. Alain Michel, a French plastic surgery specialist, will offer consultation and make your dreams come true at FV Plastic Surgery and Cosmetology.

With over 20 years of experience as the former Head of Surgery at Lyon Medical School in France, Dr. Alain Michel is recognised for his “golden hands” in performing thousands of cosmetic surgery cases. His performance includes breast augmentation, breast implant, breast reconstruction after breast cancer surgery, forming abdominal wall, liposuction in the abdomen, facial rejuvenation, nose lift…, using the latest and safest techniques to minimise surgical pain and scarring. Having served at FV Hospital and performed a wide range of successful cases in Vietnam, Dr. Alain Michel deeply understands Vietnamese patients’ desires for improving their beauty.

Working schedule of Dr. Alain Michel November 16 - December 03, 2016 During this period, FV Plastic Surgery and Cosmetology will offer special promotions, with cost from VND5 million to VND20 VND million for endoscopic breast augmentation, liposuction in the abdomen and thigh, nose lift with cartilage graft, surgical facelift.

To make an appointment: (08) 5411

3366

REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco.com THE FURNITURE HOUSE

Joint Commission International Gold Seal of Approval®

2nd floor, V building - 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Dist. 7

HOME FURNISHINGS

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

Bringing international healthcare standards to Vietnam since 2003

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DAY TRIPPER

Vu Ha Kim Vy makes a trip to the second highest mountain in southeastern Vietnam

friend told me that Chua Chan Mountain, aka Gia Lao, used to be a volcano, yet, there was no information about that on the internet. If you have ever taken a bus from Saigon to Phan Thiet, you would have seen or passed by it before as it lies quite close to the road. Located in Dong Nai, Chua Chan Mountain is about 110 km away from Saigon and is 837 metres high. It is also the secondhighest peak in the southeastern region of

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Vietnam after Black Virgin Mountain in Tay Ninh, which is 996 metres high. It was recognised as a national heritage site in 2012.

Temples, Shops and the Cableway In Vietnam, wherever there’s a mountain, there are temples or pagodas. Chua Chan has three pagodas — Buu Quang, Lam Son and Linh Son — and several smaller temples. The stone staircase leading to the top is steep and busy with shops. Some vendors might interrupt your progress and ask you to buy

some incense and candles as they think you come there to offer prayers for your love life or health. Chua Chan is actually like a small mountain village. They sell not only incense and candles, but also food, drinks, clothes, shoes, souvenirs and other spiritual services including fortune telling cards and palmistry. Just in case, there are also karaoke rooms and hostels. On my visit it didn’t take long for me to realise that two porters and I were the only

Chua Chan Mountain

PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY

people walking up to the top. Most visitors prefer to take the cableway to the top then walk down back to the foot of the mountain. This cableway is 1km long and has 72 cabins. It was opened in early 2016 with return tickets priced at VND160,000 for adults and VND90,000 for children under 1.2 metres tall.

For Trekking and Camping Chua Chan becomes more interesting if you have more time and a sense of adventure. Khoa, to whom I gave a lift from the

welcome gate to his house located at the foot of the mountain, told me that most young people prefer trekking and camping overnight on Chua Chan. “They usually follow the electricity poles. That’s the easiest way,” he said. According to Google, Chua Chan is not a difficult mountain and there are many ways to reach to the top. You can either follow the electricity poles or continue on the path behind Buu Quang Temple. Or simply, you make your own way.

Getting There Take either Highway 1A or Highway 51 towards Long Khanh. Keep following Highway 1A until you get to TL766. Take TL766 for about 4km until you see the welcome gate of Chua Chan Mountain. Follow the road about 4km and pay VND14,000 for the ticket to reach the foot of the mountain where you park your bike.

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HCMC Essentials

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse.com. vn

M M M CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM firstBIKE.com.vn FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development. JETT CYCLES OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM

384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3 jett-cycles.com The showroom home of Jett Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale. SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114 xedapcaocap.com Specialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides. Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs. THE BIKE SHOP CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405 thebikeshopvn.com The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2. Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories. Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals. Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.

M M M DENTAL CLINICS ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com

ELITE DENTAL GROUP. 57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3933 3737 info@elitedental.com.vn elitedental.com.vn Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic, which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants, ALL-ON-6 implants, dental implants, prosthodontics, Invisalign & orthodontics. Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available. MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399 STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6282 8822 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 Thao Dien Clinic, 27 Nguyen Ba Lan, Q.2, Tel: (08) 35 191 777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

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BODY & TEMPLE MOVE FREELY: FASCIAL STRETCHING

ost methods in common practice in the fitness industry are outdated. Flexibility training is no exception with most people using stretches and techniques developed in the 1950s. It’s funny that we are quick to update our technology but when it comes to updating our exercises and exercise programmes it doesn’t happen. I find this fact very relevant when it comes to flexibility. Firstly, most people mistake mobility and flexibility as being one and the same. The common perception being that if you’re flexible you also have a good range of motion and vice versa. However, this is incorrect. Mobility refers to how a joint moves (the range of motion), whereas the term flexibility typically refers to the elasticity of muscles. A flexible muscle doesn’t necessarily equate to an increase in range of motion at joints, which is the functional representation of the common term flexibility.

Spasmodic The important principle when aiming for increased range of motion is that “joints act and muscles react”. Secondly, what if a muscle isn’t inflexible but in spasm or overactive? More often than not due to our immobile and static lives (sitting and single plane movement) muscles go into protective mode having to continually contract to maintain function. This is not good, as that continual contraction leads to spasm and knotting.

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Stretching a muscle that is in spasm only makes that muscle want to grip even more to further protect an imbalance or postural defect. A lot of people are stretching muscles that are actually in spasm, which creates a lot of pain and no or very minimal improvements in flexibility. Every type of training should aim to achieve better performance and overall human movement. It is important to understand that flexibility is a component of mobility but extreme flexibility is not required to perform functional movements. Conventional stretching is not a great way to improve mobility. However, Fascial Stretching (FS) has been proven to be effective at improving range of motion at joints and therefore allowing people to function better.

Stimulated FS is a type of stretching that targets not only the muscles, but the fascia (the connective tissue that surrounds muscles), bones and joints. FS also targets the entire joint and joint capsule, using traction to remove restrictions from movement and to stimulate lubrication. There is no pain, not even discomfort. Instead, the gentle movement stimulates and relaxes at the same time. As the joint acts through a wide range, the muscles and connective tissue react and release tension, becoming more supple. Conventional stretching focuses on one muscle group and does not consider the connective tissue, nerves or joint capsule.

BY PHIL KELLY

After exercise, people generally run through the usual stretches, maybe paying extra attention to their tight muscles, sometimes pushing through some pain to get that final stretch. Sadly, this type of stretching is not effective and may even be causing more tightness and inflexibility. This is because when you cause pain with stretching, your muscles respond to protect themselves, tightening up in a reboundtype effect. Mobility training avoids this pain and allows muscles to react to the movement pattern and range therefore releasing tension and gaining greater range of motion. Here are 10 benefits of fascial stretching: 1) Increased range of motion 2) Muscular balance and symmetry 3) Improved performance 4) Reduced pain 5) Reduced risk of injury 6) Improved posture 7) Improved muscle function 8) Improved circulation 9) Decreased compression and impingement in the joints 10) Improved energy The important take-home question is: Are you inflexible or are your muscles in spasm? You need to choose the correct techniques to improve your range of motion and therefore improve your functional movement. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763, at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC Essentials

MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS

Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100 maplehealthcare.net Specialising in healthcare, dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service.

M M M GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.com Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. Now has a second newer gallery at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 dogmacollection.com The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products. GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications. HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441 baotangmythuattphcm.vn Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions. SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059 san-art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency

programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

M M M GROCERIES & LIQUOR

many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods, also sells frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products. THE WAREHOUSE

SPORTS

WINE SHOP

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET GROCERY & DELI

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town.

15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits. VEGGY’S

GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565 meatworksasia.com Focusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak.

PHUONG HA GROCERS

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts

ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Adam Zakharoff Email: adamzakharoff@ gmail.com

GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.

M M M CLASSIC FINE FOODS

CRICKET

HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure.vn Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon. FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails.com GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy,

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 samie.cashmiri@gmail. com SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans.com LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON gauloisdesaigon.com OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. astere@hotmail.fr

SAIGON RAIDERS Saigonraiders.com SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints.com

SPORTS — GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl.com SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball.info SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899 James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Saigon-ultimate.com X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com

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LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION THE RETAIL BOOM

BY GREG OHAN

Saigon Centre is one of the latest retail developments to get a makeover

question I get asked by investors both local and foreign is why multinational retailers are more than ever piling into what some observers are (for better or for worse) referring to as the “next China”. The demand for retail property in prime locations is higher than ever. The answer? People and policy. Arriving in Vietnam in 2010, I was lured by the attraction that alas, here was a country with only a handful of department stores, no McDonalds, Starbucks or even a Zara. But in a short time things have changed. Since the 1980s, we have witnessed Vietnam liberalize its economy. From the launch of doi moi (renovation), the lifting the US trade embargo, joining the World Trade Organization (WTO) and the 2015 Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP), Vietnam has been on a path to increased development and improved globalization.

Populace On the numbers alone, Vietnam’s population has grown from 66 million in

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1990, to 91 million in 2016, making it the third most-populous country in Southeast Asia after Indonesia and the Philippines. Over the next two decades, it will be entering a demographic golden age. Twenty-five per cent of the population will be aged between 10 and 24, the median age will be around 30, topped with the fastest-growing middle income and affluent class in Southeast Asia. The country that was once considered too challenging, immature and lacking appropriate investment policies to attract foreign retailers is no more the poor relation. So what does this all mean for Vietnam, the nation of Asia’s youngest shoppers? Put simply, choice and more of it. From new retailers to new malls to house those retailers, it’s shop till you drop.

Favourites When I first arrived in Ho Chi Minh City, if I was looking for a jar of Nutella or even a box of Cornflakes, I would need to visit one of what I called the original three “dragon ladies” on Ham Nghi. But things have

changed, and I would argue that it is for the better rather than worse. Despite many of them making losses, foreign retailers are expanding their retail chains, and new brands originating from Vietnam’s neighbours are diving into Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi’s retail property markets. That includes the Thais through Central Group; the South Koreans through Lotte and EMart, and the Japanese through Aeon Mall and Takashimaya plus Ho Chi Minh City’s latest shopping experience, Saigon Centre, from Singaporean investors. Rising disposable incomes are also bringing in big fashion brands such as Gap, Mango, Topshop and now Zara. Time will tell if this young nation of shoppers will weather the shop-tillyou-drop storm –but at least on paper, demographics and a more foreign-friendly investment environment will keep the nation holding on to the shopping basket for the time being. Greg Ohan is the Vietnam director of JLL, a leading global real estate services firm. Email your questions to greg.ohan@ap.jll.com or visit joneslanglasalle.com

includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

features a rooftop terrace and a great little drinks and wine selection. Open daily from 10am to 9pm.

HAIR BAR

SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

CONTEMPORARY SALON

68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108 hairbar.vn A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/ hairbarvn. INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa.com.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment. JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa.vn Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments. MERCI 17/6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8799 merci-space.com A unique nail spa and bistro where you can pamper your nails, enjoy a massage, meet your friends, enjoy a meal and sip a cocktail. Provides only waterless nails treatments to avoid bacteria and dry skin as well as Zoya and Kure Bazaar non-toxic varnishes. QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails. Cheap prices, too. SOI SPA 6th & Rooftop, 44 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8678 soispa.vn A lovely little place with nail services, shampoo head massages, and other simple treatments for a quick getaway experience. Also

M M M HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR

161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www.acc.vn ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery. AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 americaneyecentervn.com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available. CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Dien Q2, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice (FMP) is the largest and one of the oldest foreign, privately-owned, international health care providers in Vietnam. As the only health care provider that can offer a countrywide network of integrated clinics for foreign and local populations, FMP’s main specialties include family medicine, pediatrics and emergency medicine as well as health checks and work permit health-tests. FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care. FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations. HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068 hanhphuchospital.com Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 HAPPINESS ORIENTAL MEDICINE ACUPUNCTURE CLINIC ACUPUNCTURE

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684969 Well-known traditional Chinese medicine clinic in Phu My Hung specialising in acupuncture. Established in Ho Chi Minh City for over a decade.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

34 Le Duan Street, Q1; 95 Thao

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HCMC Essentials

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 107B Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 01676 71 75 79 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures. TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE

187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

cently changed names, from Blue Cross Vietnam, to align with their regional sister companies. Together they form the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience providing health and travel insurance to people who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. Contact them now for a free quote. IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinasia.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs. For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998 libertyinsurance.com.vn International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home insurance and much more. NOAH JAMES INSURANCE AGENCY Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858 noahjamesinsurance.com Skype: jp.global A full service broker offering expatriates and local Vietnamese customized solutions from highly rated insurers for life, health, travel, as well as speciality cover for student travel, medevac, international marine, extreme athletics and adventure. For details contact: james@noahjamesinsurance.com

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545 victoriavn.com Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367 ten-pac.com A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

M M M

INSURANCE

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM 4th/12th Floor Continental Tower, 81-83-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 pacificcross.com.vn Pacific Cross Vietnam re-

ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon

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South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36 theabcis.com Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British Government Inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8% of schools worldwide. ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA, the Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment. AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804 etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life. BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio. HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato.edu.vn MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano.com PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes. PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7. TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. Has a newly built campus.

and small class sizes. EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257 eishcmc.com The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 ishcmc.com HCMC’s most established international school offers three International Baccalaureate programmes for students from two to 18 years old. ISHCMC will be launching a new secondary campus in 2017, featuring Vietnam’s first Innovation Center, a 350-seat professional theatre, NBA-sized basketball courts and a 25m competitive swimming pool.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY — AMERICAN ACADEMY 16 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 aavn.edu.vn ISHCMC — American Academy is a U.S. curriculum secondary school for students aged 11 to 18 years old. Early university credits, a 1:1 University Counseling Program, and an extensive EAL program set our graduates on the road to 100% acceptance rate at overseas universities and a US$1 million scholarship fund.

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944 kidsclubsaigon.com Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources,

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99 issp.edu.vn Vietnam’s only international school offering a U.S. curriculum for children aged 18 months to 11 years old. With 100% English language immersion, a library containing over 13,500 English books and more than 60% of students achieving above grade level English, ISSP students are well prepared for secondary school at ISHCMC or ISHCMC - American Academy.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities. RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance.edu.vn Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten.com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students. SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels. SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Established in 2006, Saigon Star is a British School and one of only four schools in Vietnam to adopt the International Primary Curriculum (IPC). A combination of experienced, UK qualified teachers and a maximum of 16 students per class means learners receive the individual attention they deserve. A secondary school is opening in August 2017. SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment. THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223 tas.edu.vn Accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), TAS represents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and a variety of academic offerings. Runs advanced placement courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State University, as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners.

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M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome. HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. Rents by the day or by the month. Call or check the website for details. Also does visa extensions. SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273 nga.natalie@gmail.com saigonbikerentals.com Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves, Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, Luvias, SYM Attilas and Excels. Call for details and prices. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE

M M M RELOCATION AGENTS

M M M AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS

77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690 saigonscootercentre.com Just relocated to its new home in District 2, Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs. Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and bike rentals.

M M M

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220 alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

RECRUITMENT & HR RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs. THE NEST 216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 580800 thenesthousing.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS

185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 chiscafe.com Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in

ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office. HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b.com G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC. vieclambank.com VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many. Also a good site for expat jobseekers.

pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email Vietnam@santaferelo. com for info.

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 asiantigers-mobility.com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-to-door moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations. JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

SERVICED APARTMENTS

TATTOO ARTISTS

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678 the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area. NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving,

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class,

EXILE INK 608

57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6675 6956

exileinkvietnam.com SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311

saigonbodyart.com SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090

tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net

SPIRIT TATTOO

206B Le Van Sy, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 01204 738939 (Fiona)

facebook.com/ spirittatts

Respected tattoo and body-piercing studio specialising in traditional Japanese, black and grey, portraiture, realism, western traditional, neo-traditional, dot work and geometric.

TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838

tattoosaigon.com

with five–star facilities and service.

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as CGV, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425

cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

M M M SPORTS & FITNESS CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620 laholista.com Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451

idecaf.gov.vn

CGV CINEMAS

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2222; Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297 1981; Level 2, Thao Dien Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000; Level 5, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555; Level 7, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388

HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE HEALTH CLUB & GYM

17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and sauna. Has a small but consistent membership. STAR FITNESS GYM HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

GYM, POOL, SQUASH

GALAXY CINEMA

galaxycine.vn

SHERATON FITNESS

THE LANDMARK CLUB

lottecinemavn.com

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567

SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km. VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run.

BODY AND MIND BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326 cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) GENERAL FITNESS

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort.com A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals.

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. VERTICAL ACADEMY CLIMBING GYM

Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966 920612 facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced before, a place to climb. Has a number of climbing sections, runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million).

VETERINARY CLINICS ANIMAL DOCTORS INTERNATIONAL 1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2. (08) 6260 3980 animaldoctors.vn Offers the very highest levels of compassionate, competent and professional veterinary medicine and surgery to all pets in Ho Chi Minh City with international veterinary surgeons. Upholding international standards, the team works tirelessly to help clients with the support of a dedicated surgical suite, digital X-Ray and comprehensive diagnostic facilities.

M M M VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden. com VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

M M M SPORTS GARMENTS

SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588 score-tech.net Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

M M M

cgv.vn

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BAR STOOL

o Chi Minh City’s flourishing craft beer craze has a new entrant — Rogue. Owner Linh Nguyen opened the bar in August this year as a sister bar to his alternative event venture, Saigon Outcast. “Rogue is a craft beer bar with a raw, industrial-loft setting,” says Linh. “It’s the kind of place where you could get lost in good conversation and good beer for a whole night.” Up two flights of stairs is a long, sparsely furnished space with shining wooden floors and wide windows. The general ambience here is comfortable, quiet and

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warm, the yellow lights flicking off the bright, glittering glasses that hang above the bar space. “I love the history of this building,” says Linh. “I wanted Rogue to seem like it came from the bricks, so we designed the decor, the murals and the vibe based on what it had to offer. We made the old new.”

Spoilt for Choice Rogue is raw, hand-hewn and has history, and yet it is sleek. The bar serves drinks on the first floor yet lives on three levels, two of which are rooftop terraces open to the sky, and while the drinks are served on the

lowest level, guests can take a seat upstairs and order from their table. I ask Linh for a recommendation. Rogue Saigon has 16 local beers on tap, as well as a number of bottles imports and local brews such as TeTe and 3 on a Bike. Linh himself chooses the beers for Rogue, and when I ask him for his favourite he shakes his head. “Honestly I couldn’t pick one,” he says. “I love the creativity of our brewer partners and our taps are always changing as they bring in new ideas — if I could recommend anything, it would be to take your pick and try something new.”

Rogue

PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

But there are so many beers to choose from. Currently, the local breweries on tap are Platinum, Fuzzy Logic, Pasteur Street Brewery, Saigon Cider, TeTe, 3 On a Bike, Lac and Phat Rooster. Some of the bar’s more popular imports include the Canadian Flying Monkeys Craft and US beer Rogue. Tapped or bottled the beer is kept cold and fresh, something that many craft beer bars in the city struggle with.

Distinctive I start with a Fuzzy Logic, and the first thing I notice about my beer is its size. Rogue Saigon sells their beers in three sizes

— 195ml, 330ml and 500ml. A 195ml serve of the Fuzzy Logic costs VND40,000, and the general price range is quite wide with most 330ml drinks sitting at VND95,000 and a flight of 6 samples at VND260,000. The bartenders pour your drink in front of you, tipping the glass to create the light fluff of a good fresh beer on top of the tasty brew itself. The second thing I notice about my beer is the taste — my Fuzzy Logic tastes bitter, almost nutty, and with a subtle hint of citrus as I swallow. To me, the best thing about craft beer is how it always surprises with its distinctiveness. Every beer in this bar is different, not so much by

name but by those subtleties in flavour that mainstream mass-bottled beers ignore. As I sip my first drink, I can feel that warm tingly sensation that usually doesn’t hit until the second or third. Most locally brewed beers here carry 5 percent alcohol content and up — my Fuzzy Logic has 5.4 percent with a 32 IBU. Looking around me, no one appears drunk, but there seems to be that sense of beery good fellowship that you might associate with an English pub before 10pm, and with every new glass poured another person joins the family. — Zoe Osborne Rogue is at 75 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC

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HCMC On The Town

BARS & CLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon. ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists. APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB

2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon.com An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back. BIA CRAFT CRAFT BEER BAR

90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2588 biacraft.com As craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh City, so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea, right? Well, it is. Only small, but with wooden tables perfect for sharing, both on tap and by the bottle, Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. Also has a decent food menu. BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB

95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details. BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD

40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange,

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and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City). BROMA, NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP

41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail.

EON HELI BAR

LE PUB

LOUNGE BAR

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR

Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750 eon51.com Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Night live music and DJs.

175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner.

GAME ON SPORTS BAR

115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon.com A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more.

LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR

207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

DELIVERY BEN STYLE

Tel: 0906 912730

www. vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO

Tel: (08) 3898 3747

www.chezguido.com

BUDDHA BAR RESTOBAR

7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon.com Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys. CHAMPION SPORTS BAR SPORTS BAR

45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4202 A recent addition to the sports-and-watering-hole drinking scene, Champion is located in the Backpackers’ area and shows all the major televised sports. Also has a pool table, darts, tasty Western and Vietnamese food, great cocktails and ice cold beer. Western managed, wonderful local staff. #BeAChampion.

HOA VIEN CZECH BREWHOUSE

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn The original microbrewery, this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer. ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR

24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still key here, with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports. LA FENETRE SOLEIL

CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.

SPORTS BAR

55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack? A sports bar. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the market. Sleek lines, modern décor, elegant and spacious, dartboards and of course, lots of large screens to watch the televised sports. Check out their daily food specials.

GAMES & CRAFT BEER BAR

46-48 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Malt is a non-smoking bar in downtown Saigon offering shuffleboard, darts, craft beers on tap, signature cocktails and delicious tapas and pub grub. Its unpretentious vibe and casual atmosphere will have you feeling at home. MAY RESTAURANT & BAR LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686 mayrestaurant.com.vn An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space. NUMBER FIVE

44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

44 Pasteur, Q1 The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular live music.

EXPAT BAR

OMG! LAST CALL 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon.com If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030

www.dominos.vn EAT.VN www.eat.vn

HUNGRYPANDA. VN

www.hungrypanda.vn KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999

www.kfcvietnam. com.vn

LOTTERIA

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn

PIZZA HUT (PHD)

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE

MALT

Tel: (08) 3838 8388

www.pizzahut.vn SCOOZI

Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com

FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon. O’BRIEN’S IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon.com

VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com

This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls. ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience. PEACHES CURRY PUB

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt.

SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY POOL & DAY CLUB

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 saigonsoul.com The ultimate in poolside entertainment, Saigon Soul is defined by its great party atmosphere. Booming house music, cold drinks and beautiful people. What better way to spend a Saturday? Runs every Saturday from late November until mid May. SAIGON OUTCAST EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets. SAIGON RANGER

shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here. STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL

5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp.vn Named after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food menu. A good place to watch the live sports. THE CUBE BAR

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS

46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites. PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT

C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520 facebook.com/PitchersPMH Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat.

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559 facebook.com/saigonranger Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance.

INTERNATIONAL BAR & LOUNGE

22 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3828 8828 quilounge.com A recently opened, stylish top-end bar with a house DJ that is the plaything of Saigon’s jetset and anyone who is prepared to pay for atmosphere and one of the most hedonistic venues in town. Has an excellent food menu and a tasty brunch. RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR

S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks.

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon.com A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League. WINE BAR 38

31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798 facebook.com/thecubesaigon A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

THE OBSERVATORY

BAR, ART & DJ SPACE

5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR

9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday. SHRINE BAR

QUI LOUNGE

VINYL BAR

HIP RESTOBAR

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

PHATTY’S

Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook.com/vespersaigon A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.

LOUNGE BAR

61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1 shrinebarsaigon.com Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere. SEVENTEEN SALOON THEMED MUSIC BAR

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top

THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999 facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM Designed as a Laneway-style restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc

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COFFEE CUP

o 7 Cafe sits behind a skyblue sign at the end of a broad alleyway, facing a school from across the street. During the day, local vendors make use of the alleyway’s quiet shade, filling it with bun and Saigon’s infamous com tam, and almost obscuring any hint of the café from passers-by. Started by a group of students from the University of Architecture in Ho Chi Minh

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City about seven years ago, So 7 looks like it was once someone’s home — tucked away round the corner behind private gates, hidden inside its own narrow alley. “So 7 was not originally a house, but we wanted it to become a home,” says café manager Tung. “When we designed the space we wanted to make it feel like you are entering a quiet, cosy living room.” The café seems to attract students as its main demographic, the vibe is peaceful and

tranquil, and the air stays cool. When we enter we are asked to take off our shoes to keep the floor clean of street grime. The café overlooks a wide paddock of rough green — a strange open space in the otherwise crowded city. The stairs to the upper level are shallow and the whole area seems somehow miniature.

A Special Recipe The café does not have any chairs. Instead,

So 7 Café

PHOTOS BY MIKE PALUMBO

people sit on cushions on the carpet with wooden, crate-like boxes for tables. Soft music plays in the background. As we sit down, the café manager brings us two glasses of iced jasmine tea and a menu. So 7 serves quite a range of drinks, from basic Vietnamese ca phe to extravagant mocca concoctions, along with fruit juices, smoothies, tea and beer. Prices range from about VND35,000 to VND60,000, and each item has both a daytime and a night-time

price. There is also a small selection of food and a list of delicious ice-creams. We order a ca phe den da at VND32,000 and a ca phe ngoi nha so 7 at VND45,000, which turns out to be a rich cashew-nut blend. Most of the coffee is designed and concocted on-site and follows a special So 7 recipe. The staff here are friendly and polite, although they tend to stay on the lower level of the café so if you need something on the upper floor you may

have to call or climb down. So 7 is a growing project. “We have many goals for the future,” says Tung. “We are all about sharing our creativity with the people who visit So 7.” In such a flourishing, diverse coffee culture as that of Saigon, it can be hard to create a café concept that stands out, but this quiet corner of the city seems to have found its own niche.. — Zoe Osborne Café So 7 is at 7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, HCMC

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HCMC

CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

On The Town

AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, homemade desserts. Offers up tasty breakfasts, lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm. BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003 sam.nguyen197@gmail.com A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories. CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien.com Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz. COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL

PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN

157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building,

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235 Dong Khoi, Q1 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth. DECIBEL INTERNATIONAL

79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel.vn Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials. GUANABANA SMOOTHIES

for coffee. KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS CAFE AND ON-SITE ROASTING

40 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6685 4160 klasik.coffee Nitro cold brew coffee, single origin coffee and healthy food. Klasik Coffee Roasters is a small coffee shop with a passion for seeking high quality coffee beans from around the world to roast in Saigon. Holding the belief that each cup tells its own story, drinking coffee at Klasik is all about pleasure and experience: the aroma, the taste, the warmth and the senses inspired by each and every cup. Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

L’USINE

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830 guanabanasmoothies.com An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH

HIDEAWAY

First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

INTERNATIONAL

41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon.com Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair. I.D. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE

34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.net Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet

apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495 facebook.com/m2ccafe At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town. MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400 facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old

PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM

8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East. THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven. THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe.com.vn Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent. THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272 facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE

158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000. THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205 facebook.com/thingscafe Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ

Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution. 27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix. AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL

27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Aus-

tralian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2.

babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2.

bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BLACK CAT

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.

AMERICAN

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ

23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor. ASHOKA NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant.com Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare. BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661

13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river. BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front. BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas. BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL

CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and

38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries. CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE

40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, build-your-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service. CHRIS FOOD ONLINE TRADITIONAL FRENCH / DESSERTS

Tel: 0909 365525 (English) / 0909 320717 (French) chrisfoodonline.blogspot. com or facebook.com/muasaleoff2014 Traditional French cuisine and exotic dishes from the Reunion Island served up in Ho Chi Minh City and delivered to your door. All dishes are prepared with fresh ingredients, nothing is frozen. Options include cheesecake, tiramisu, lasagna, chicken curries and muffin. All speciality foods are cooked to order. CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN

11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls

adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting. CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE

16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try their pad thai — to die for. CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL

117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000. ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN

52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

eon51.com Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients. GANESH PAN-INDIAN

74 A2 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 38229366 padamjivietnam@gmail.com Located opposite Martini Bar, this relative newcomer to the dining scene with its bright decor serves up mainly North Indian cuisine with a large vegetarian selection as well as South Indian curries, dosa, vada and uthapam.Meat curries cost from VND100,000 to VND120,000. HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

EL GAUCHO

HOANG YEN

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

PAN-VIETNAMESE

74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho.com.vn A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town.

7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town.

EON51 FINE DINING

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN

Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066

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TOP EATS

n interesting touch to the recently opened Spice Temple is that the whole ground floor is reserved for motorbike parking, which is rare in the golden area of Saigon. Just a few metres off Nguyen Hue walking street and set in a three-storey building, Spice Temple oozes modernity and elegance through the use of subtle lighting, high windows and wooden geometric wall decorations. Furnished with wooden chairs and tables, and leather sofas, this Thai restaurant opened in September, but could prove a formidable competitor to other Thai eateries

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in town, as the man behind the scenes also has his hand in other restaurant projects in Saigon. Aiming to give an authentic Thai feel, Spice Temple imports all its spices and Tupperware from Thailand.

Fused According to the chef, dishes at Spice Temple are inspired by Thai cuisine but recreated with international flavours, making them suited to any palate. The first dish we tried, the papaya salad (VND75,000) was a mixture of papaya, carrot, string beans and three slices of salted egg. Although mixed with the

sweet-and-sour fish sauce that you might find similar to Vietnamese fish sauce, the salad still retained its crunchiness from the papaya. This was followed by rock-grilled pork ribs (VND165,000). Simply decorated with a few lettuce leaves and a tamarind dipping sauce, the ribs were grilled to a deep brown. The taste was a piquant combination of the saltiness from the ribs and the sourness of the tamarind sauce. We wanted to order a second portion. When Spice Templeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pad thai (VND165,000) emerged, we noticed other diners looking our way thanks to the

Spice Temple

PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

presentation of this quintessential Thai dish — a huge prawn placed on top of the noodles gave it a wow factor. The prawn was juicy and fresh and as the chef explained later, “was bought and kept alive until we cooked it.” The noodles, after they were mixed with other ingredients, made a great companion to the prawn.

For Those Who Have a Sweet Tooth On the dessert front, Spice Temple goes for authentic and well-selected options that include Thai cendol (VND65,000), mango with sticky rice (VND35,000), Thai mango panna cotta (VND75,000) and fried banana

with coconut ice cream (VND95,000). All were tasty and moreish. To wash it all down we went for the Singha beer (VND75,000) imported from Thailand. There is also a decent selection of wine including Casillero Del Diablo (VND120,000 per glass), Matua (VND780,000 per bottle) or Villa Garrel Rose (VND750,000 per bottle). Soft drinks, coffee, smoothies and fruit juices are also served, with prices from VND25,000 up. — Vu Ha Kim Vy Spice Temple is at 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, HCMC and is open daily from 11am to 10pm. Visit spicetemple.com.vn for menu and info

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TOP EATS

ancho Cantina on Bui Vien in District 1 has given itself the tag of king of Mexicali food in Ho Chi Minh City since opening earlier this year. But if co-owner Calvin Bui has his way, Sancho’s will soon be the king of Mexicali food in all of Asia. They already make one of the best margaritas in Vietnam. Sancho’s is at the quieter end of Bui Vien towards Cong Quynh. It’s cosy and seats 30 people at a stretch, but it’s one of the few places along the nightlife strip set back from the street offering space. It also has access via an alley beside it if the party needs to spill over into the street or you need somewhere to park.

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Doing business along Bui Vien can be challenging given the competition and the sheer density of the area, but Calvin believes the food and drinks at Sancho’s speak for themselves.

Fiesta over Finance After turning his back on a career in finance almost a decade ago, Calvin caved in to his passion for food, in particular Mexicali food, and has reinvented himself as a restaurateur. Sancho’s is one of a number of Mexican restaurants opened recently in Ho Chi Minh City with its specialities originating from southern California where Calvin grew up.

Sancho Cantina

PHOTOS BY MIKE PALUMBO

“The growth in popularity of Mexican food here is exciting,” says Calvin. “It’s great to see Mexican food trending in Vietnam and we’re hoping to open in Danang and Hanoi in 2017.”

Hospitality Overload By the time our first pitcher of margarita (VND300,000) has been downed, Calvin appears with the tacos. They are as colourful as his personality and have as much zing as his one-liners. There are six on the menu to choose from — Baja-style fish, carne asada, grilled chicken, pork carnitas, ground beef and vegetarian. At VND40,000 each, they

disappeared in a flash. The Baja-style sea bass taco with cabbage slaw, citrus and chilli flavours set off a fiesta in my mouth while the freshness and texture of each tortilla with Sancho’s own spicy sauce was a highlight. “We focus on fresh ingredients and make our own stuff daily,” says Calvin. “Our tortillas are made here each morning and while we import special ingredients from Los Angeles, everything else is from the local markets.” Before we know it, there’s a shot of Two Fingers tequila (VND60,000) each in front of us and a line-up of Sancho’s own Phat Rooster ales starting from VND35,000 for a

330ml glass of Saigon Blonde. Then comes the main dish. Two burritos, one ground beef, the other vegetarian. The regular size comes in at VND160,000, but for an extra VND50,000 you can go ‘Sancho-style’ with sour cream, pico de gallo, guacamole, red sauce and cheese. Bring your friends. You’ll need them. Sancho’s has all the other Mexican favourites, like fajitas, enchiladas, nachos and quesadillas. Keep an eye out for a lot of fun events soon like an all-you-can-eat Taco Libre night and a ‘Man Versus Burrito’ challenge. — Matt Cowan Sancho Cantina is located at 207 Bui Vien, Q1, HCMC and is open from 11am to 2am

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HCMC On The Town

hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace. INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town. JASPA’S WINE & GRILL INTERNATIONAL FUSION

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.com Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks. KABIN CANTONESE

Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000. KOH THAI CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs. KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot! L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN

Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured

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walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team. LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN

48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list. LE CORTO CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0671 facebook.com/LeCorto Open for lunch and set dinner, this beautifully designed restaurant and bar seamlessly mixes contemporary and with classic. With a menu cooked up by reputed chef Sakal Phoeung, and with a contemporary twist to traditional French fare, this is a place to enjoy the luxuries of fine cuisine and even finer wine. LE JARDIN CLASSIC FRENCH

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace. LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. A great place to take out-of-town guests. MAD HOUSE CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, RESTAURANT

6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4009 facebook.com/madsaigon Set over a pool in a leafy, tropical garden, the beautiful rustic décor is matched by a darkwood, aircon interior. Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city, all with a European influence. Also has an extensive wine list, a good selection of imported beers and a happy hour. MARKET 39 INTERNATIONAL BUFFET

LION CITY SINGAPOREAN

45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. LOVEAT MEDITERRANEAN

29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6260 2727 loveat.vn Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. A great place for dinner, cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere. LU BU CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN

97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant.com Drawing inspiration from the

Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD

19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail. com Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour. MEKONG MERCHANT INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD

23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in

An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front. MONSOON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN

1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies. NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE

136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com If you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent. NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com One of the top three buffet restaurants in town. Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality. OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES

18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. Open late. PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN

87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2. PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT

C0.01 Riverside Residence C,

Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520 facebook.com/PitchersPMH Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat. PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION

8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties. POP FRIES CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES

14M Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 754251; 273 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0938 754851 A street food eatery concept that originates from Los Angeles and New York, and born from a passion for sharing, here it’s all about the loaded fries. The potatoes are twice-cooked and come piled high with a range of inventive toppings. Funky décor and long benches make up the mix. PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints. QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE

8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE

168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500 facebook.com/quanutut It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off

the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

RACHA ROOM CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 6253 7711 theracharoom.com The Racha Room delivers Thai accented Pan-Asian cuisine with a focus on high quality ingredients. Racha features a large selection of spirits at a seated bar and high table to ensure drinking along with eating remains central to the experience. The current and future of Asian-inspired drinking and dining is right here at the Racha Room.

REFINERY

SAIGON CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET

Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch. SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN

Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9513 sanfulou.com Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further.

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN

33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr The longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining.

STOKER CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE 44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 3826 8691 stokerwoodfiredgrill.com One of the world’s oldest culinary techniques — grilling over a wood fire. Stoker kitchen uses different woods to infuse foods with different smoky flavours. These techniques revolutionize live fire cooking by providing precise heat control through the use of a grilling surface that can be adjusted to different cooking heights above the hot coals.

SORAE SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE

Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689 soraesushi.com Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen. TAMAGO

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE

RELISH & SONS GOURMET BURGER BAR 44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 01207 214294; 105-107 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: 0909 004294 relishandsons.com Relish & Sons burgers are lovingly made with a healthy food philosophy in mind and fresh high quality ingredients. The beef patties are 100% Australian grass-fed; the buns are made with a reduced sugar and salt content. Burger relishes such as chutneys are all made inhouse from scratch.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

PAN-JAPANESE

39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE

SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN

9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices. THE DECK MODERN ASIAN FUSION

SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

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KNOW YOUR CITY A TALE OF TWO CITIES

BY ED HAYSOM

lmost every major city has its Chinatown. Cholon in Ho Chi Minh City — spanning Districts 5, 6 and 11 — is the largest in the world. It is hard understanding that it was once an independent city, a twin city to Saigon. Twin cities are unusual, a special case of places founded in close proximity, that grow into each other over time, and in most cases losing their own identities, with any border or barrier between them becoming irrelevant. Cholon was settled before the formal establishment of Saigon. During the 18th century, Chinese immigrants — the Hoa people — established a site on the embankments beyond the Saigon river as a defensive strategy against the Tay Son forces that had previously massacred them. They called their site Tai-Ngon (meaning embankment). Their relative remoteness allowed them to grow their village into a trading centre and when the French arrived they were able to provide them with valuable services such as the transportation of goods through river and canal networks. They were largely left alone and their trading strength attracted many new immigrant Chinese to Vietnam, expanding the settlement. This trading DNA resulted in the name Cholon bestowed by the Vietnamese, as the term for “big market”.

Coming Together Successful trading brings with it economic growth and in 1879 Cholon was incorporated as a separate city. Rapid advances in technology in the latter part of the 19th century quickly reduced the time it took to get to Saigon. That technology was the tram and the earliest tram line in Saigon was the connection to Cholon. In the 20th century trams were electrified, making the travel times even shorter, allowing Cholon to develop even faster, and in April 1931 the two cities were merged (the connection being at Nguyen Van Cu) to form the single city SaigonCholon. In 1956, following independence

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PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

from France, the Cholon name was dropped and the city was incorporated into Saigon. Yet Cholon’s trading DNA remains in place. Binh Tay Market is the second largest market in the city and District 5 and District 6 are still the places to go to find bargains. There are goods you can find in Cholon that you cannot find elsewhere in Ho Chi Minh City.

To Market, To Market Much of that trade revolves around the markets. There were once two Cholon markets, the original market, founded in 1778 at the same time as the city’s incorporation, was located where the main post office in Cholon now stands. Eventually becoming run-down and overcrowded, a new and bigger market was proposed and built by Quach Dam, a rich Chinese merchant, who called it Cho Binh Tay, gifting it to the French Governor in exchange for exclusive construction rights of selected areas around the market. While the Cholon market continued to enjoy an advantage with its better location and loyal patronage, it was destroyed by fire in 1928.

Many Chinese-Vietnamese (Viet Hoa) still live in Cholon and while a casual visitor perhaps cannot discern a difference between the entities of what were once twin cities, the local Viet Hoa people remain close-knit and parochial. Strong social and cultural institutions such as clan associations, temples and monasteries still exist, with the cultural infrastructure of temples including Jade Emperor, Chua Ngoc Hoang and the magnificent Quan Am Pagoda. The authorities have recognised many of these temples and clan associations as national historical and cultural sites. The historical sites also function as tourist attractions and contribute to the tourism industry of Ho Chi Minh City and Vietnam. There is something eternal about Cholon, with its essence and its core constituency still intact. It will endure as a separate but connected entity, providing a remarkable and valuable part of Ho Chi Minh City. Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode / Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi Minh City. You can contact him on ehaysom@ modehaysomarchitects.com

On The Town

PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN

HCMC

ZEUS GREEK / KEBAB

THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999 facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM Designed as a Lanewaystyle restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

TIN NGHIA VEGAN

9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow, and the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too. ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX

169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com

MI QUANG MY SON

PHO PHU GIA

MI QUANG

PHO BO

BUN CHA HA NOI

NAM GIAO

BUN CHA

BUN BO HUE

26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

M M M STREET FOOD

38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1

189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1

CHI THONG

PHO DAU

BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI

PHO BO

195 Co Giang, Q1

288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3

COM GA XOI MO SU SU

PHO HOA

VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN

PHO BO & PHO GA

BA GHIEN COM TAM

84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan

55 Tu Xuong, Q3

260C Pasteur, Q3

COM TAM 40A

PHO LE

BA NAM VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook.com/vespersaigon Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space.

BO KHO

Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10

COM TAM

40A Quoc Huong, Q2

PHO BO

413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5

146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 PHO PHU VUONG PHO BO

339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh SUSHI KO STREET SUSHI

122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4 THE LUNCH LADY DAILY CHANGING DISHES

23 Hoang Sa, Q1

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE

67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

BANH CANH HOANG TY BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BANH CUON HAI NAM BANH CUON

11A Cao Thang, Q3 BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU BANH KHOT

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

102 Cao Thang, Q3 BANH MI HONG HOA VIETNAMESE BANH MI

62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 BANH MI HUYNH HOA ‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI

26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 BANH MI SAU MINH VIETNAMESE BANH MI

170 Vo Van Tan, Q3 YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE

1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG VIETNAMESE BANH MI

107 Truong Dinh, Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU BANH TAM

271 Nguyen Trai, Q1 BEEFSTEAK NAM SON VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE

200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh

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Gia Dinh Hospital 1.5km

The Final Say

nfluenza is real. There are many things which help ease its symptoms; a week off work, piles of takeaway food and lots of sympathetic mollycoddling from your partner. These are some of the most effective treatments. But antibiotics don’t work, for influenza or any other type of cold, which are caused by viruses; antibiotics only work against bacteria. And colds and flu are ailments which strike most people at least once a year, which in Vietnam means good business for the pharmacist. I’m sure most foreigners living in Vietnam are familiar with the often-told tale, that of going to a pharmacy with a blocked nose and being sold a colourful combination of mystery medication, almost always including a course of antibiotics.

Pharmacopia It’s happened to me more than once. Most recently, after researching at home what I’d been sold, I found out that not only was that particular medicine an antibiotic not effective for my cold symptoms, but was actually intended to treat a certain sexually transmitted infection. Antibiotics serve no purpose other than in the treatment of bacterial infections. This simple premise is the single biggest misunderstanding in Vietnamese medical habits, and is one reason why in a 2001 study, Vietnam had the highest prevalence of penicillin-resistant pneumococcus (a bacteria causing pneumonia) out of the 11 countries in the Asian Network for Surveillance of Resistant Pathogens. As old antibiotics lose their

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NATIONAL

Antibiotics: More Curse than Cure Prescribing antibiotics when they shouldn’t be leads to bacteria developing resistance. In Vietnam, though, it goes one stage further. Here you can buy the drugs straight out of the pharmacy. Words by Edward Dalton effectiveness, authorities turn to newer, more expensive antibiotics; keeping these affordable becomes a big challenge. The issue quickly becomes a national one, because even someone who has never taken antibiotics before may one day catch a more developed bacterial infection which is resistant to standard treatment.

Awareness At the top of the medical food chain, there is wide awareness of the problem. Deputy

Health Minister Nguyen Thi Xuyen last year blamed increasing antimicrobial resistance on the widespread sale of antibiotics without a doctor’s prescription. Similarly, Nguyen Van Kinh, director of the National Tropical Diseases Hospital, said: “It is no exaggeration to say that drugs, especially antibiotics, are bought and sold… as easily as vegetables.” “Vietnamese use antibiotics like eating rice,” he added. “They go to the pharmacy to pick up antibiotics anytime they feel sick.”

“Antibiotics serve no purpose other than in the treatment of bacterial infections. This simple premise is the single biggest misunderstanding in Vietnamese medical habits” Moving down to more localised awareness, most pharmacies know what they are doing is wrong. A 2010 Ministry of Health survey found that out of 3,000 pharmacists in the north of Vietnam, 88% sold antibiotics without a prescription. A pharmacist in Hanoi told Thanh Nien News that “almost no drugstore asks buyers for prescriptions”, suggesting the main reason was that they would never be able to compete with other stores which don’t insist on prescriptions. Luong Ngoc Khue, head of the Ministry of Health’s examination and treatment department, added that the penalties for pharmacists flouting regulations were too mild to be a real deterrent. Current penalties range from VND200,000 to VND500,000 for selling medicines not supported by prescriptions. Unfortunately, awareness among the general population is a combination of very low, and aware but uncaring. In November last year, the World Health Organisation (WHO) conducted the first World Antibiotic Awareness Week. Of the several dozen Vietnamese people I’ve asked about it, none knew it had happened

at all, despite a 63-province national relay and a huge social media campaign.

Industry Insiders An investigation by Tuoi Tre found pharmacists in Ho Chi Minh City who would even sell antibiotics for a customer’s friend or relative. “You simply tell me about the symptoms and I will sell medicine to you. No need to have a prescription,” one reporter was told, after asking for medicine to treat a child who had stayed at home. I spoke to a foreign doctor working at a private hospital in Hanoi, who lamented the state of selling pharmaceuticals in Vietnam. “Prescriptions are shopping lists, no patient data is recorded and pills are often dispensed in unmarked blister packaging,” he said. “A pharmacy is a business first, so the only records they keep are to check how much money is being made. But until the culture of seeing a doctor as a last resort changes, I can’t see any big improvements coming soon.”

Getting Proactive Some actions have been taken to try and

reduce the abuse of antibiotics in Vietnam. In 2013, the Ministry of Health set up a committee for drug-resistance prevention, and in 2015 established a special unit to study the specific problem of antimicrobial resistance. In 2014 an aide-memoire jointly agreed by several Vietnamese ministries, formed the basis of a national action plan to help raise awareness among health workers and the general public, improve the monitoring of antibiotic use and resistance, and nurturing safe and rational drug use and infection control. One Minister of Health, Dr. Nguyen Thi Kim Tien, said her ministry would more vigorously enforce the regulations which oversee drug sales by pharmacies, and raise people’s awareness of using prescribed drugs. The solution needs to start from the ground up. Certainly, there needs to be stronger sanctions against rogue pharmacists, but there also needs to be grass-roots education across all parts of society to ensure the wider public are aware of why this is an issue which can no longer be ignored.

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Ten10

Shoko Ishikawa is the country representative for UN Women in Vietnam. Here she gives her thoughts on gender equality and the lot of the Vietnamese woman When did you come to Vietnam? How easy or difficult has it been to settle into life here? I moved to Hanoi in May 2013. It hasn’t been too difficult [to settle in] because you have almost everything available here. We made mistakes like keeping our windows open for air instead of using the air-conditioning and ended up fighting mould all over our furniture and clothes the year we arrived. We don’t do that any more.

What do you like about living in Hanoi? The energy and tenacity of the people is amazing. Everyone is competitive and trying to get ahead — like in the traffic. It can be exhausting, but also makes you feel alive. Then you step into the back streets of Tay Ho and it’s so quiet. I love this contrast.

In terms of the UN, what are your specific goals with regards to Vietnam? My goal is to reveal the different realities of women compared to men in Vietnam in terms of their social and economic status and life opportunities, and support better policies that will help women and girls enjoy their full potential. Many people say that men and women are given equal opportunities, but the reality is there are a number of barriers for women to participating in the economy, in family and in community life on equal terms with men.

How easy or difficult is it to achieve these goals? It is not easy. There is no country in the world where working for gender equality is easy as it challenges power relations and social norms based on different genders, and those that hold the power are men.

Compared to other countries in the region, how advanced is Vietnam in terms of gender equality? Vietnam is advanced when you look at indicators such as gender parity in primary education or the reduction in maternal deaths and women’s participation in work. Vietnam also tops the region in terms of the number of laws, policies and programmes that have been created for gender equality. However, whether these laws and policies are working for women is another matter. For example, of all the women engaged in work only 25 percent of them are in formal employment that afford them any form of worker protection and entitlements.

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

There are many things to celebrate about women in this country. If there was one thing you could choose above all others, what would it be? Women’s leadership in the political sphere is growing very slowly, yet the growth of women leaders in the business world is extraordinary. Vietnam’s women entrepreneurs now form about a quarter of all entrepreneurs and a 2013 study suggested 30 percent of board of director roles in Vietnam were held by women, higher than the global average of 19 percent.

How different is the lot of a Vietnamese woman in the countryside compared to the big city? What are the key issues? I have visited a few ethnic minority communities and have met women in extremely poor households. The women I met in Binh Thuan had no cash income and showed me the leaves they pick to boil and eat with rice because the farm land their family was allotted is too far into the mountain to get to. It was the resourcefulness of women that was keeping the families together.

Many regard Vietnamese women as being ‘tough’. Do you agree or disagree with this? In a sense I do. They are resilient, perhaps because of the history of the country, or perhaps because out of necessity to get things done.

In what areas do you feel women need more representation in Vietnam? I would like to see more women making it big in fields that are male dominated like engineering, science and technology. There is a growing number of young women entrepreneurs leading technology start-ups. They symbolize a new generation of women leaders that could change the social perception of women. I also dislike hearing comments that because women are physically weak they cannot do certain strenuous jobs.

If there was one thing you could change in Vietnam, what would it be and why? In Vietnam there are 38 jobs that women are banned from and 39 jobs that women who are pregnant or have children under the age of one cannot engage in by law because these are too strenuous, dangerous and “affect women’s reproduction and child raising duties”. This approach reinforces the idea that women are weak and in need of protection.

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