Word Vietnam October 2014

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC

VIETNAM EDITION OCTOBER 2014

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM

Hong Kong Ho Chi Minh City Phnom Penh Kuala Lumpur Singapore Bangkok Hanoi Jakarta Yangon Manila

contents

wordvietnam.com

OCTOBER 2014

062

100

056

058 / Co Loa

THE TALK 010 / Save our Cities

A trip to an ancient capital reveals an unusual story

The drawback of development

011 / The Big Five

062 / The Cities

Events to look out for this month

BRIEFINGS 012 / Saving the Rhino

016 / Taking Back the Selfie

050 / This is the Month that Was

INSIDER 054 / Many Faces

The woman behind the young virtuosos

056 / Don’t Go Chasing Coracles

Please stick to the sampans that you’re used to

2 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Your favourite bands will be playing songs by your other favourite bands

088 / Saigon Vinyl Quest

Screw you, haters! We’re doin’ it

From Bendgate to Bikinigate, all in a month’s work

MUSIC 084 / Howling for Halloween

Digging through the dustbins of history

LEISURE 092 / The Secondhand Furniture Shop

Investigating our Indian options up north...

103 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: bun ca Hai Phong

104 / Mystery Diner HCMC

... and down south

FASHION 106 / Hipsters.

Giving up too soon is not an option

The urban legend is real

EAT & DRINK 096 / The Strip

West Lake is getting crowded

The results are as mixed as a double mocha frappuccino

102 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

This month’s cover story explores our options in Southeast Asia

A Vietnamese celebrity takes the fight to South Africa

100 / The Great Hanoi Starbucks Experiment

102

contents

122

184

188

118 / Formula One

130 / Travel Promos HANOI 040 / To-Do List 048 / Overscene 131 / Hanoi City Guide 134 / Recalling Hanoi 136 / Coffee Cup 138 / Food Promos

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166 / The Empty Wok

038 / Overscene

Things that go ‘boompf’ in the night Boats, mountain bikes and all-fours

156 / Body and Temple

030 / To-Do List

114 / The People of Myanmar

Burma, in between the snapshots

122 / Cu Chi the Hard Way

154 / Job Search

HCMC

TRAVEL

168 / A World of Good

149 / HCMC City Guide

178 / Student Eye

160 / Coffee Cup

180 / Tieng Viet

164 / Top Eats 176 / Food Promos 179 / Non-Famous Places COLUMNS 140 / The Alchemist 142 / The Therapist 146 / Medical Buff 148 / Book Buff

152 / Business Buff

FINAL SAY 184 / The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War

Chapter 1 of Wilfred Burchett’s classic account

188 / Resentment on the Road

Fighting the chaos with calm

192 / The Agony of The Feet

Get it?

196 / The Last Call

Singapore Business Group’s president wraps up our ASEAN look

CONTRIBUTORS

This month we asked our colleagues the following question: Where else could you see yourself living in Southeast Asia, besides Vietnam?

Here’s how they replied: ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor Well it’s a tough one — I like it all!

But I guess I’d go with the quieter, more reflective side of Southeast Asia. And seeing as how one of my best friends started a Get Ed Weinberg to Kampot! campaign on Facebook, I guess I’d give that a try.

VU HA KIM VY Marketing & Graphic Design I don’t want to move. I want to live in Vietnam! Why? Simply, I love this country with all its bad and good things.

DUHWEE PHAM Freelance Writer It's a no brainer for me, I love Japan so Tokyo is most definitely in my five-year plan. The city is vibrant with innovation yet tradition doesn't waver, it's the perfect yin and yang balance!

OWEN SALISBURY Freelance Writer Honestly, I don't know. Where can I find a better combination of high quality of life, low cost of living, and decent salary as a teacher? And would my girlfriend be able — or even willing — to join me?

DAVID MANN Staff Editor It would have to be Georgetown in Penang. The perfect place to chill out and feast on as much char kway teow as I can get my hands on!

NIKO SAVVAS Freelance Writer I once visited a small town called San Jose in The Philippines. It’s secluded and authentically Filipino — I saw no other foreigners, there was no late-night karaoke or disco clubs, and the mayor even outlawed pornography.

It seemed like a terrible place to live. So, anywhere but San Jose, I guess.

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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com

ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor ed@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

HOA LE Staff Editor hoale@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

DAVID HARRIS Staff Photographer david@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

MARK ALLAN Website & Graphic Designer mark@wordvietnam.com

IAN WILLS Online Editor ian@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Marketing vy@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com

ADVERTISING BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com

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For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668 Special thanks to Julie Vola, Glen Riley, Katie Jacobs, Niko Savvas, David Mann, Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Riccha Arora, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, Family Medical Practice, Owen Salisbury, To Thu Phuong, Duhwee Pham, Simon Stanley, Harry Hodge, Grasshopper Adventures, Phong Lan, Lucy Sexton, Singapore Tourist Board and George Burchett

Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners.

NICK ROSS Chief Editor Almost definitely somewhere remote in Indonesia. Maybe Ambon in The Maluku Islands. Maybe somewhere in Sulawesi. Or possibly even somewhere like Lombok.

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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC ISBN: 978-604-59-1959-0

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Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: +84 8 3839 0970 Fax: +84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Võ Thị Kim Thanh Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Bao Ross Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Công Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành, Phường 4, Q. 3, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordvietnam.com Website: www.wordvietnam.com

In đến 15.000 cuốn, khổ 20.5 x 27cm In tại Công Ty TNHH MTV In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Số ĐKKHXB: 1476-2014/CXB/03-127/LĐ QĐXB SỐ: 67/QĐCN-LĐ. Ngày 30/09/2014.

In xong và nộp lưu chiểu Qúy 4 năm 2014.

The prelude got to have a certain type of personality to be able to cope with it, and you’ve got to be the type of person who thrives on achieving goals.

In our cover story this month almost everyone we spoke to — at least, certainly those not from Southeast Asia — found that in this region they work harder than they did back home. Much harder. The downside of being a well-paid

expat means you have to perform, you have to be worthy of your salary. With this pressure comes stress.

I certainly feel it. Not just at the end of every month but from the very day after this publication goes to print.

Fortunately, the lifestyle out here makes up for the hours of hard work. Southeast Asia is obsessed by eating and drinking, by meeting friends, by going out.

Yes, people do also

stay at home, but they certainly spend more hours outside their private nests than they would do if they were living in the West.

Forget all the other pluses of living in this part of the world.

And forget even the negatives. The lifestyle alone is what is so attractive for those of us who’ve decided to make Southeast Asia our home. Yes you have to work hard. But you also play hard, too. — Nick Ross

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC

VIETNAM EDITION OCTOBER 2014

Hong Kong Ho Chi Minh City Phnom Penh Kuala Lumpur Singapore Bangkok Hanoi Jakarta Yangon Manila

W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM

W

hile we were on deadline for this issue, one of our staff members ended up in hospital, on a drip. There are a number of reasons for what happened, but one contributing factor was stress. No matter how much you plan in advance, the deadline stress of putting together a daily, weekly or monthly publication is immense. You’ve

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Cover by DH Advertising Design by Vu Ha Kim Vy

HAVE YOUR SAY DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS? THEN LET US KNOW ON FACEBOOK — FACEBOOK.COM/WORD.VIETNAM — OR VIA TWITTER, @WORDVIETNAM. NO MATTER HOW POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE YOUR THOUGHTS, WE LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.

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DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM — WE’RE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

The Magic Number Yo. Great issue. Loved the bright spin on 101 things also draft beer great. And a damn fine cover. — RR

Cover Story No.2

No.3

Coconuts

101 THINGS to LOVE about #Vietnam via @wordvietnam...

[Numbers 8, 37 & 40 for me!!] — MTM Loved that story, 101 Things to Love About Vietnam. But why did you put coconuts at number 2? — JW Bum guns at 34 and Cargo Bar at No. 18. LOL! Should have been the other way round! — DL I remember when you did 101 Things to Love About Hanoi a couple of years ago. Everyone loved it. Glad to see that you changed up a lot of the content. — OS

Cafés

The number of cafés in Vietnam is perhaps only exceeded by the number of motorbikes here. There are so many of them, and the style of each goes beyond diverse. From kitsch, communist-themed cafés like Hanoi’s Cong Caphe to the sleek, colonial charms of Saigon’s L’Usine, from cafés devoted to fans of Trinh Cong Son (Hanoi’s Caphe Nhac Trinh) to cafés devoted to fans of Japanese weirdness (Saigon maid cafés Viet Moe and The Other Person); there are as many places to take your coffee as there are methods of preparation. New trends are evolving all the time — from the pet cafés that are lately flooding Vietnam’s biggest cities to the evolving artisanship of Hanoi’s Oriberry and Saigon’s [a] café.

And of course, we can’t forget the typical street café — their low wooden or plastic tables make it easy to get a ca phe sua da wherever you go. Just get lost in any coffee shop on Hanoi’s Trieu Viet Vuong — also known as coffee street — or in Saigon’s Phu Nhuan District. Somehow, we think you’ll find your fix.

They drop on your head. Fortunately their contents can also drop in your mouth, although you need to open them first. In Vietnam coconuts are cheap, nutritious and very, very tasty.

No.4

Flower Markets

The best-smelling markets around, these pre-dawn hubs of greenery are brightened by neat lotus flowers in summer and cheerful wild roses in winter.

Words by Katie Jacobs, Hoa Le, Ed Weinberg and Nick Ross.

Photos by Kyle Phanroy, Francis Xavier, Glen Riley, David Harris and Julie Vola Read through the news and of No.1 every ten stories, eight will be negative and two will be PR. Rarely will there be a story that is genuinely positive.

In today’s world there is a belief that it’s only negative news and sensation that sells units or draws in readers. And when it’s straight PR, readers just seem to switch off.

political interests? In our humble opinion, no. And with Vietnam often being the recipient of negative press, we decided to do the opposite this month and give you the anti-cover story, one that remembers all that’s good about this country. And believe us, from quirks to coffee, language to arts, culture and dramatic landscapes, there’s a lot. Far more than we could ever place in these fair pages.

Is the world really such a bad place, one where the only things we talk about are either negative or influenced by corporate or

So read on and join with us in celebrating all that is good about this country we live in — Vietnam.

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Long Bien Bridge

No.5

The iconic iron peaks of Hanoi’s oldest bridge have transported trains, bikes and pedestrians across the Red River for over 110 years. And no, contrary to legend it wasn’t built

by Gustave Eiffel.

wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 63

Edgy Content and Community I happened to chance by your magazine and I love the articles written within.

As I teach writing classes to Vietnamese students, at Broward College Vietnam, I needed articles that are relevant and edgy.

For instance, in your July 2014 edition, I used The Therapist article Working It Out (p. 150) to teach the concept of power.

Another piece, Business Buff, World

Cup Dollars, (p. 158) will be used to teach the concept of value, self and culture. Your writing pieces are a lifesaver.

I do believe that what you write is extremely relevant to the young people of today and gives credence to the axiom: “The pen is mightier than the sword”.

Writing is not just words being filled on a page just for the sake of rudimentary exercise. Rather, it is the expansive breadth

of human identity being actualized. It is self-empowerment. It is social community.

I believe these ideas are what you espouse as well.

With that being said, I would like to ask if you have a community submission section in your magazine where my students can submit their writing. I want them to see the value of their writing in a community of writers. — Peter Nguyen

the talk

Save our Cities

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ld buildings are problematic. First is location. In Vietnam, except for a few notable exceptions, most are in the city centre. With a scarcity of land, there is a temptation to knock them down and replace them with high-rises. In terms of land value and financial returns, skyscrapers are simply more efficient.

Preservation is also an issue. For many developers or homeowners, it’s often cheaper to knock down an old building and reconstruct it from scratch rather than to conserve and invest in what is crumbling and falling down.

Subjectivity comes into play, especially with the value placed on heritage. Buildings like the two Opera Houses, the Metropole Hotel in Hanoi or Ben Thanh Market are high on the heritage list. These are landmarks, with historical, emotional and architectural value.

Other buildings don’t have the same pulling power. The higher the heritage value, the more likely the building will be preserved.

And of course there’s urban planning.

Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City are both in development and phases. In the name of progress and grander designs, while some buildings will be saved, others just have to go. Just look at the razing of Thu Thiem

10 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

What should we preserve? in Saigon’s District 2. To create a new city centre on the other side of the Saigon River, its residents had to be relocated, their houses knocked to the ground.

and the woes of both the building and its inhabitants were covered incessantly by the local press. For once, it wasn’t foreigners leading the charge. It was Vietnamese.

Progress vs. Heritage

To Infinity and Beyond

Until recently these variables in Vietnam were balanced in favour of ‘progress’. History, rather than something to remember, was something to be forgotten. In the process, all that was ‘old’ was deemed bad or replaceable, and all that was ‘glitzy’ and ‘new’ was seen as desirable.

Yet times are changing. Whereas once it was foreigners who got upset at the destruction of this country’s buildings, now growing numbers of Vietnamese are in on the act. There is an appreciation here for heritage that even five years ago didn’t exist.

The most recent expression of this change came with the demise of the Saigon Tax Centre. As part of the reconstruction of downtown Saigon, this 1920s-built department store was read its final rites at the beginning of August. With business owners given only two months to vacate the premises, the uproar was astounding.

Petitions were circulated, the online community went into critical overdrive

Change, rebuilding and destruction are inevitable in modern day Vietnam. This is a country on the rise — to continue its meteoric elevation into the developed world, sweeping physical change is inevitable.

However, now more than ever there need to be guidelines. What should be preserved?

Why should it be preserved? How should it be preserved? By creating a comprehensive list of protected buildings — from big to small — it will still be possible to retain the character of this country’s two main cities.

Some buildings are worthy of being saved, others aren’t. The distinction needs to be clear.

And too much which should have been saved has already gone.

In the name of tourism dollars, Hoi An has had a financial incentive to preserve its look and historic feel. In Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, such variables are not so evident. Instead it’s uniqueness, character and history that are important here. And these are things that are priceless. — Nick Ross

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OCT.

the big five

Italy the Michelin Way

InterCon sure knows how to spoil us. After bringing the first Michelin-star experience to Danang, they’re upping the stakes with the first Michelinstar dinner in Nha Trang — oh and they’ll stop by Saigon and Hanoi as well. For these three special dinners, they’re bringing Chef Mateo Metullio out from Trieste, Italy, where he was the youngest Italian chef to earn his star at the tender age of 25.

This rising chef of Northern Italian cuisine will take on the kitchen of InterContinental

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3 -25-26 OCT. 22

3

Hanoi Westlake Oct. 14, InterContinental Nha Trang Oct. 16 and InterContinental Asiana Saigon Oct. 18. He’s taking us on a six-course journey that will make all other Italian cuisine pale in comparison.

To reserve a spot, consult InterContinental Hanoi Westlake at (04) 6270 8888 / fandb.hanoi@ihg. com; InterContinental NhaTrang at (058) 388 7777 / fb.reservation@ icnhatrang.com; InterContinental Asiana Saigon at (08) 3520 9099 / dine@icasianasaigon.com

OCT.

Without Stars

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OCT.

Apocalaughs Now!

After a two-month hiatus, the international comedy that we all love to love is returning to Saigon’s Cargo Bar on Wednesday Oct. 15.

Part of a Southeast Asian comedy tour, this month the headliners at Apocalaughs Now are the irrepressible David Smiedt (RSA) and the punchlineperfect Ro Campbell (UK).

As ever, Magners will be on hand to give you a dose of Irish cider on the door, and the laughs will also be ready and waiting with the most unpromisable of promises — a gag a minute. Oh, and for all you partygoers out there, this is Apocalaughs Now’s one-year anniversary show.

Definitely not one to be missed.

The entrance surcharge is VND250,000 and includes a free Magners. For table bookings please email saigoncomedynights@gmail. com. Cargo Bar is at 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Doors open at 8pm

Acclaimed contemporary dance troupe, The James Cousins Dance Company, will be electrifying the big stage on Oct. 22 (Hanoi) and Oct. 25 and 26 (HCMC).

Performing two emotionally charged pieces — Without Stars and There We Have Been — both are inspired by the Haruki Murakami novel, Norwegian Wood. With a recent work by the same dance

24-25

company described by well-known British dance critic, Laura Dodge, as “one of the most stunning contemporary dance pieces I have ever seen”, expect a mesmerizing, haunting experience.

The Hanoi show will be performed at the Hanoi Youth Theatre (11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung) while the Saigon leg will go on stage at IDECAF (28 Le Thanh Ton, Q1). For tickets, please go to ticketbox.vn. Prices TBA

OCT.

4

Balade En France

Coming on the heels of four successful editions, this year’s Balade En France promises to be something more than just a fun night in a fancy hotel. With an expected 1,800 other Francophiles headed to Hotel Equatorial (242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, HCMC) for the two nights of the event, you’ll be able to ‘parler’ about the food and wine on offer and home-grown, French-influenced art on display.

With an interesting emphasis on animation this year, this year’s Balade aims to transport you right

into the heart of France.

Balade en France goes from 6pm to 11pm each night, VND150,000 in advance, VND300,000 at the door — under 15s pay VND120,000.

For more info, contact avdpol@hcm. equatorial.com

5

The Halloween Covers Show

Where do you go when you want to see your favourite bands play as your other favourite bands? Well there’s only one place in the world if some of your favourite bands are Saigon indie groups and others are legends like Parliament-Funkadelic, Florence and the Machine and The Misfits — and that’s Cargo Bar on Halloween night. Add in Arctic Monkeys, Bob Dylan, New Order and Joan Baez, and you’ll get in enough musical impersonations to never have to go to Thi Café again.

The Halloween Covers Show starts around 9pm at Cargo Bar — 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Check out the feature on page 84

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 11

briefings BRIEFINGS

SOUTH AFRICA

Saving the Rhino A Vietnamese celebrity takes up the cause

B

efore George Clooney stepped in, the international press were ignoring the atrocities in Darfur. Oscar-winning actress Angelina Jolie supports or has supported a total of 28 foundations and charities including UNICEF, UNHCR and Human Rights Watch. Musician Bono of U2 fame weighs in with support for 36 causes including Amnesty International and water. org. Even Madonna’s ex-husband Sean Penn has taken a seat on the bandwagon, deciding to the amusement of the British that ownership of The Falklands should be transferred to Argentina.

The purpose, at least on the surface, is to provide credence and legitimacy to these causes. By having a celebrity somewhere near the helm, the charity, NGO or foundation can raise awareness and get media support.

So to discover that singer and self-styled Vietnamese diva, Hong Nhung, has got behind the ‘Saving the Rhino’ movement is perhaps not so much of a surprise. What is a surprise is that she is one of the first local celebrities to take on such a role.

The Trip to South Africa The issues with rhino conservation are welldocumented. The belief in the ability of rhino horn to act as a magical cure for cancer and other health problems, as well as its value

12 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

as a status symbol, is driving the poaching industry in South Africa. In 2013 1,004 rhinos were killed for their horns — including the last of Africa’s now-extinct western black rhinos — while to date in 2014, well over 700 rhinos have been slaughtered. If the trend is not halted, more extinctions loom.

As part of her induction, last month Hong Nhung went on a fact-finding mission to South Africa. Sponsored by the Rhinose Foundation and the Humane Society International-Australia, and organised in conjunction with Education for Nature in Vietnam (ENV), the trip included a journalist from Lao Dong Newspaper, the Vietnam customs vice chief of the antismuggling and investigation department and a representative of the TV station, VCTV. According to ENV, the trip was put together to “foster links between South Africa and Vietnam, and to bring the issue directly to the Vietnamese people by way of wellrespected public figures”.

Visiting Kruger National Park, which has lost well over 400 rhinos so far this year, the delegation met with rhino park authorities, rangers and conservation groups to gain better insight on the difficulties they face in their efforts to protect rhinos on the ground.

They were also flown by helicopter deep into the African bush to the scene of a recently killed rhino.

“I am really shocked,” said Hong Nhung, as she stood over the carcass. “This rhino has been hunted down and its horn hacked off its face. This is the most brutal crime scene that I have ever witnessed.”

She added: “When I get back to Vietnam, I will speak about my experiences so that [people] understand and feel the severity of this senseless killing, and the impact it is having on these amazing animals.”

Will it Work?

According to UK newspaper, The Independent, two pieces of recent research suggest that celebrities are “generally ineffective” at encouraging people to care about foreign causes. Instead, say sociologists, by appearing to be altruistic “the chief beneficiaries of star-studded attempts to raise the profile of a good cause are the celebrities themselves”.

Yet, says Jane Cooper, the UNICEF UK director of communications, “Celebrities have a unique ability to reach millions of people, many of whom may not normally be engaged.”

There is no doubt that Hong Nhung’s public profile will benefit by taking up this cause. But hopefully the real beneficiary will be the rhino. — Nick Ross For more information on the work of ENV, please go to envietnam.org

briefings

BRIEFINGS

NATIONAL

The Great Photo Leak Vietnam’s no stranger to scandals — but, as Ed Weinberg learnt, mankinis still make headlines

T

his past month, netizens were outraged by a pair of seemingly calculated photo leaks of scantilyclad models representing two of Vietnam’s most popular brands.

Appearing on Sep. 19 on the Facebook timeline of ‘Lingerie Queen’ Ngoc Trinh, the first set of leaked photos showed nine models in red-and-yellow, VietJetAirbranded bikinis. In the smartphone-captured flicks, the models perform luggage checks, amorously salute viewers and do all the other traditional duties of VietJetAir bikini models.

VietJetAir first made sexy headlines in 2012, with an inflight bikini show celebrating the budget airline’s inaugural flight to Nha Trang. “It was the first flight to a beach town,” a VietJetAir official said at the time, “so we came up with the idea of getting a number of girls in bikinis to dance and make passengers happy to improve our customer service.”

This time around, some potential passengers objected. “That’s just plane wrong,” quipped Facebook commenter Charlie Wall. Long ‘TheGoddamn’ Nguyen suggested a new slogan: “Welcome to VietJetAir Air. We got lots of tits.”

Not everyone disagreed with the idea.

Nhien, commenting on tuoitrenews.vn, saw the photos as “fun and friendly”.

“Imagine foreign visitors seeing this fun ad and becoming more interested in

14 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

coming to Vietnam,” he wrote. “Why be so conservative towards a type of publicity that other international airlines have used long before?”

Meanwhile in Saigon...

As the maybe-calculated VietJetAir scandal unfolded on the pages of the internet, an uncanny coincidence was brewing. And on Sep. 24, Facebook was again atwitter over photos of models in red-and-yellow swimwear — this time taken within the walls of Saigon barbecue restaurant Quan Ut Ut. Apparently leaked by Okinawan male model ‘Taint’, the photos show his fellow models in playful repose, looking sexy, sassy and generally like guys you’d want to be sharing one of Quan Ut Ut’s communal tables with.

Ut Ut owner Tim Scott said, “These photos were leaked from a test shooting under a contract between Quan Ut Ut and Uranus [Modeling Agency]. They are not official promotional photos of Quan Ut Ut.” Tim was kind enough to answer a few questions: Who are the sexy dudes?

They are international men of the catwalk.

They were recruited from Uranus Talent Agency. They are somewhat elusive in public due to their fame, and live more or less in disguise most of the time.

Are those custom mankinis?

Strict measurements were taken for each model to ensure ‘spillage’ was eliminated, [along with] maximum comfort for the lengthy photo shoot.

Will the mankini-clad studs be flipping burgers??

Would you eat a burger flipped by them? We didn’t think so.

How has this affected your September ‘Month of Love’ promotion? Did more people start kissing after the photos got leaked?

We shudder to think what happened behind closed doors at the homes of people downloading these images. Business as usual at Quan Ut Ut though.

Not so Fast A strange story gets stranger — in the case of the Quan Ut Ut photo leak, a number of Facebook forums ‘unleaked’ them, deleting the images amid a flurry of gay-bashing and LOLs. In point of fact, even the fine periodical you hold in your hands couldn’t run them. To get a glimpse of the Uranus Modeling Agency forbidden fruit, click on haivl.com/photo/4723142, where you’ll see the cheeky mankini photos contrasted with the totally-printable ladies of VietJetAir.

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 15

briefings ADLINE E D

oct 31

BRIEFINGS

NATIONAL

Taking Back the Selfie

I

As Word’s selfie competition heats up, we bring you a brief history of this much-maligned art form

t’s safe to say that selfies have jumped the shark. There’s a sitcom titled Selfie debuting on American television this fall.

It was Oxford English Dictionary’s ‘Word of the Year’ for 2013. Justin Bieber and Miley Cyrus have forsaken promising pop careers to focus on the discipline (kidding!).

Sellotape selfies are things. Selfies are the rare thing that’s become embedded in the mainstream, but hasn’t yet been abandoned by the kids.

So maybe we’re past the backlash, and can take a look at the phenomenon honestly.

Selfies aren’t a new thing — they used to be called ‘self-portraits’ — but front-facing camera phones and 24/7 access to social media are. Criticisms of selfies are really criticisms of the anxieties of our age — technological oversaturation, body image concerns.

American art critic Jerry Saltz has written a pop critique of the form, with some interesting conclusions: When it is not just PR, though, it is a powerful, instantaneous ironic interaction that has intensity, intimacy and strangeness...

Fascinatingly, the genre wasn’t created by artists.

Selfies come from all of us; they are a folk art that is already expanding the language and lexicon of photography. Selfies are a photography of modern life — not that academics or curators are paying

16 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

much attention to them. They will, though: in a hundred years, the mass of selfies will be an incredible record of the fine details of everyday life. Imagine what we could see if we had millions of these from the streets of imperial Rome.

There’s something here, something powerful and untapped. And it’s something very relevant to Vietnam, linked by that one lonely underwater broadband cable to the popular currents of global culture.

The Selfie Face-Off You might have heard that Word is hosting a selfie competition — The Selfie Face-Off — and we’re looking for a few good photographers.

We pride ourselves on the photos published in these pages, but it’s more than quality we’re after. It’s expression, it’s giving people a place to show off a part of themselves that sometimes doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. And that recognition should extend to all people, not just those with camera skills who know how to work the appropriate media networks. You know, as long as it’s good.

And we believe there’s something here, something raw and sincere and innocent about it, something that captures the best of the expressive arts.

Traditional media (like us) have come under fire in recent years for being too

inflexible, for losing touch with the way people communicate. But there’s something good about structure, about a more orthodox forum for words and pictures that too often get lost in the deluge.

With this competition, we think we’ve realised our mission in life — and it’s bold, no doubt. But with your help, we really think we can legitimise the selfie.

WWWHW WHO: Pros and amateurs of all ages.

WHERE: Bedrooms, rooftops, cafés, caves, grandparents’ houses, Crazy Buffalo, Phuc Tan, etc.

WHEN: Submission deadline Oct.

31 — 11.59pm. Winning images will be announced in the December issue.

HOW: Email images 500kb or larger

to kyle@wordvietnam.com. Tell us whether it was shot via SLR/DSLR or a smartphone, and your name. For full contest details, check wordvietnam.com/ features/the-culture/selfiefaceoff.

WHY: Because we believe in you.

Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist Tel: T el: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330 pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com Au Lac Do Brazil I HC M C 238 P asteur asteur, Dist. 3 Tel: T el: (08) 3820 71 57 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682 wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 17 pr@aulacdobrazil.com

briefings Photo by Mitsuyo Miyazaki

oct 29

BRIEFINGS

HCMC

Illustrations by Pat Perry

MONO

As Saigon comes of age as an international tour stop, it begins to secure some niche acts

I

n the five days between shows in Hong Kong and Taipei, Onion Cellar scion Vanity Vietnam managed to snag Japanese post-rockers MONO for a show in Ho Chi Minh City, a coup for a post-rock scene that peaked interest-wise in 2010 but is only now beginning to attract some names.

The closest Vietnam was able to get previously to post-rock of the MONO calibre were tight local acts like Time Keeper, touring bands Anoice and And So I Watch You From Afar and a 2012 Onion Cellar x Japan Foundation screening of the MONO concert film Holy Ground. Although MONO is going on 15 years together, guitar-based music tends to age well. Especially when it taps into the immortal currents of time, loss and remembrance.

Word got a chance to speak with MONO founder and guitar-wielding force of nature Takaakira ‘Taka’ Goto in advance of the show: Word: How did it come about that you’re touring in Vietnam?

Takaakira Goto: We were always hoping to visit Vietnam. Luckily this time, our booking agent for Asia and Australia, Jef [Vreys] from New Noise... managed to book us, so we’re really looking forward to it. We think in Vietnam, there is a beauty and people’s kindness that Japan lost throughout our economic development. We’re hoping to

18 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

share something important through our music.

Your new albums The Last Dawn and Rays of Darkness are being double-released on Oct. 15, along with some rhetoric about focusing on a new era of your sound. What will this renewed focus bring?

The two albums ended up representing the counterpoints in life. Light and darkness, hope and hopelessness, love and loss, the emotions that can’t be expressed, pain which you can’t put into words, happiness which you can’t simply measure. We also at the same time felt and hoped that they could be something to exceed the darkness.

This time, we wanted to just leave the chaotic ones as chaotic as possible and make the positive ones as positive as possible.

How do your live shows compare to the records?

We generally do live recordings so there is not much difference as far as the performances go. But when you actually shake the air through live performances, there is some indescribable intensity in sounds compare to the studio recordings. We want you to look forward to it!

You guys all play the glockenspiel. What does it add to your music? Will we be hearing an all-glockenspiel song?

We just love the pure and dreamy sounds of

glockenspiel. They work really well together with the guitars. We use them on the new records as well.

What do you try to make people feel with your music? How do people respond to it, what does it do for them?

Our audiences generally watch us quietly like you’re watching a film in a theatre. We think that every one of the audiences feel their own story differently, from their own experiences and memories through our music, almost like a spiritual travel. And because of that, we think we managed to expand our dynamics in sounds to this level over the years.

In A Glance WHERE: C ARGO B AR (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC)

WHEN: Oct. 29, Doors at 8pm HOW: Pay ticketbox.vn/mono2014 VND500,000

WHY: MONO is up there on the first tier of international post-rock bands

INFLUENCES: My Bloody Valentine, Sonic Youth, Beethoven, Ennio Morricone, Lars Von Trier

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 19

briefings

BRIEFINGS

HCMC

The Scooter Man

W

hat brought you to Vietnam?

What enticed you to stay?

I’d been travelling after finishing work in Hong Kong and got caught up in the coup in Cambodia in early 1997. The airport got destroyed so I couldn’t make a return flight to Bangkok. When things heated up I headed to the bus station and the last bus leaving was going to Saigon. I arrived with no visa and got an emergency visa on entry and then spent the night in an expensive police hotel. The next day I was accompanied to immigration to get a tourist visa. A couple of days later I was having a coffee downtown and offered a guy US$200 (VND42 million) for a nice Lambretta sx200. He sold it to me. I was only joking, but that was the start.

When you first arrived, what was the Vespa and Lambretta scene like here? How easy was it to buy bikes and what kind of prices were you paying?

There was no real scooter scene here. There were a few shops on Nguyen Van Cu that were ‘restoring’ for foreigners but there was no local market. At the time they were seen as a poor man’s Honda and there was amazement that foreigners were actually buying them when they couldn’t be given away. I could easily pick up 50 scooters a day if I wanted them, and prices were from VND2 million. Even for the real collectable models like the Vespa GS and Lambretta 200 models, prices were VND4 to 5 million.

Back in the late 1990s what was the local perception of old bikes? Why do you think that changed? What are the most noticeable changes you've seen?

I think they were looked on as the choice of transport for people who couldn’t afford a Honda Dream. “Every body dreams of a Honda Dream” was a common saying. Also due to years of neglect they were unreliable,

20 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

uneconomical and generally in need of extensive repairs. This was the same for the whole range of classic models from Honda Cubs and ss50s through to Vespas and vintage classic bikes. The scene has changed dramatically over the past 10 years.

The appreciation of classic bikes and scooters has really gained in popularity. The classic bike club scene has attracted a lot of younger Vietnamese who now see them as a cool, unique mode of transport and something that they can economically customize. They're not common sights on the streets any more, so they’re gaining a cult following.

How difficult was it and still is it to export bikes overseas? When did the Vespas and Lambrettas start to run out?

The de-registration process has always been difficult. This has to be completed by the registered owner and involves four different papers that need to be submitted to the local traffic police in the area where the bike is registered. A part of this is that the current ownership paper has to match with the original import papers. In over 1,000 scooters we have exported, I have only ever had one bike that didn’t have the original import docs on file. Unfortunately it’s not getting any easier to arrange this. In fact if anything it’s getting more difficult.

By about 2002 many people saw the Vespa business as an ‘easy’ way to make money and thousands of cheap sub-standard scooters were being shipped out every month. Over the next five years the market quickly dried up. These days we’re lucky to pick up three or four nice scooters a month.

As the scooters for restoration and export began to run out, how did you change your operations?

A large part of the SSC business has been in

Photos by Alexandre Garel

Last month Saigon Scooter Centre celebrated its 17-year anniversary. Word talks to founder and self-styled scooter man, Pat Joynt, about the classic bike industry then and now

the manufacturing of after-market parts and accessories. We currently produce over 1,000 parts for the export market. We also have a large rental bike stock mainly dealing with short-term, long-distance rentals for tourists making Saigon to Hanoi trips. We also import many European motorcycle products including a wide range of Italian helmets.

This year is your 17th anniversary of Saigon Scooter Centre. What have been your best moments? What have been your biggest challenges?

I think one of my favourite moments was the Charity Scooter Event we organized in 2011 when we supported an orphanage in Dong Nai. We anticipated a turn out of about 250 riders and on the day there were over 500.

The challenge is like in any business — adapting with the times. One of the most difficult projects was the design of the Vtronic electric scooter conversions. This has been a five-year project made even more difficult as the technology of EVs is changing so rapidly.

What are your plans for the future?

At the moment we’ve just moved into a new workshop and set up our offices and showroom under one roof. We’re also looking into opening a new shop in Phu My Hung and the plan for the ‘Scootacafe’ is still on the cards.

For more information go to saigonscootercentre.com

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 21

briefings

BRIEFINGS

HANOI

In Transition —The Halico Factory After a century-plus, the curtains have closed on another of Hanoi’s colonial landmarks. Katie Jacobs surveys the remains

A

few months ago Hanoi lost one of its oldest buildings and landmarks, the Halico Factory.

Founded in 1898 at 94 Lo Duc by the Fontaine Company, the recently demolished liquor factory was one of the first major constructions to be built by the French — it outlasted almost all of its architectural contemporaries. If anything, the site was a memorial to all the changes that the city has seen over the past century.

The factory held many roles over its 116-year history — as the largest colonial factory, supplier of medicinal alcohol, host of wartime bunkers, participant in Eastern bloc liquor fairs and producer of some of the highest quality liquor in Vietnam. It even had a stint as a Japanese controlled prison in the 1940s.

Ch-ch-changes A friend took me to see the factory a few weeks ago. An avid explorer of the city, she had discovered the old factory by chance.

Parking the scooter in front of an expanse of rubble she turned to me in shock. “It’s gone,” she said. “I was just here a few weeks ago and now it’s gone.”

That’s Hanoi for you. Buildings are always

22 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

disappearing.

We poked our heads through the flimsy corrugated iron gates, trying to picture what was there before. Piles of crumbling red bricks, cakes of cement, metal pipes, bamboo poles and old trash stretched half a kilometre before us. “You can still see one of the original chimneys,” my friend said, pointing to where a group of women in conical hats were rummaging through the mess in search of anything valuable or useful.

Although it seemed the factory had disappeared overnight, in actuality, it wasn’t meant to have made it past the summer of 2012. Originally slated for demolition years ago, Word published an article about the factory in April 2012 and reported that Halico had built a new factory on the outskirts of the city.

A quick Google search of the old address at 94 Lo Duc reveals that the now rubblefilled lot is to be the site of two new 21-storey apartment complexes designed

by Australian-owned firm Brown and Associates–Architects. But there is one reminder of the historic factory. On the corner stands a bright blue umbrella with white Halico lettering stamped across it, under which you can still buy plastic bottles filled with the famous wine.

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 23

briefings BRIEFINGS

NATIONAL

Vietnamese Women’s Day

oct 20

A

lthough International Women’s Day has historical significance — a mass strike on the occasion kicked off the Russian Revolution in 1917, and the day continues to raise awareness of women’s issues the world over — the national women’s holiday has taken on special meaning in Vietnam.

And yes, that significance extends past the flowers you’ll see on office desks and Facebook timelines.

From the time of the Trung sisters to the Indochina Wars, the role of women in Vietnam has long been linked to the struggle for independence. There is even an old Vietnamese saying about that: “Giac den nha dan ba phai danh” — “When the enemy is at the gate, the woman goes out fighting.”

Hai Ba Trung Leaders of an uprising in 40CE which would establish the last Vietnamese-ruled kingdom for 500 years, the Trung sisters are the heroic archetype for women in Vietnam. In what is today northern Vietnam, they led a rebellion against the Chinese occupation after Chinese governor To Dinh killed the elder Trung’s husband, according the Complete Annals of Dai Viet. With a mostly-female army, the widow Trung Trac and her sister subjugated 65 cities on the backs of war elephants in the first year of their rule, establishing a capital in Me Linh — part of present-day Hanoi.

Trung Trac named herself queen.

It took the ruling Chinese Han dynasty two years to amass an army of over 10,000 under the command of one of China’s greatest generals, Ma Yuan, ‘Queller of the Deep’. In the Chinese account, Ma Yuan killed both Trung Trac and her sister Trung

24 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

All photos from the Arthur Z. Gardiner Archive

Unearthing the unique meaning of Women’s Day in Vietnam

Nhi. In the Vietnamese account, the sisters either committed suicide or fled to the banks of the Jin River, when their army suddenly realised “the queen was a woman and could not be victorious, and therefore scattered”.

Their female captain, Phung Thi Chinh, is often depicted fighting with a newborn in one arm and a sword in the other. As the story goes, she gave birth on the frontlines of the war, committing suicide when she saw the cause was lost.

A Powerful Tradition Dicey historical interpretations aside, the Trung sisters have been powerful symbols of Vietnamese independence for nearly 2,000 years. In these photos from Women’s Day in Saigon, 1960, ao dai-clad women of all ages march down modern-day Le Loi, mindful of the tradition they carry.

Vinh Tuong, herself a participant three years later, says, “The organiser borrowed the two elephants from the zoo and 20 horses from Phu Tho” — a province in northern Vietnam, the site of the Hung Kings’ ancient kingdom. “The two girl students who acted as the two hero Trung sisters were from Trung Vuong High School on Nguyen Binh Khiem” in Ho Chi Minh City, which Tuong also attended.

“20 younger girl students from the 8th grade are the Trung sisters’ soldiers,” she continues. “One of them was my sister.”

What You Can Do Instead of Buying Flowers The history of independent Vietnam is tied to the battle for Vietnamese gender equality. In the 1930s, when nationalist sentiment was evolving, women’s liberation

became a popular topic in intellectual and political circles. Ho Chi Minh’s Lao Dong Party galvanised support for independence by speaking against the mistreatment Vietnamese women had suffered under the French — eventually instituting employment quotas and ending systemised prostitution, child marriage and forced marriage.

The time since the Doi Moi reforms has been challenging, with free market practices putting women in rural areas at a disadvantage credit-wise, and occupational segregation creeping in as men returned to the workforce.

The Thanh Hoa Fund for Poor Women is a microfinance institution in Central Vietnam, which started in 1998 as a joint project of the Save the Children Fund and the Vietnam Women’s Union in Thanh Hoa. It has since grown to support nearly 100,000 women, with loans ranging from VND500,000 to VND10 million.

Kiva, an online microfinance lending platform that directly connects individuals with microfinance institutions, has worked with the Thanh Hoa Fund for the past six years. In that time, Kiva members have supported nearly 10,000 borrowers with US$3 million in loans.

Thanh Hoa is one of the poorest provinces in Vietnam, with poor households accounting for 37 percent of its 3.7 million people. It’s looking like another exciting Women’s Day in our cities — maybe one day all of Vietnam can join in the celebration. — Ed Weinberg For more information on the Thanh Hoa Fund for Poor Women, go to thmicrofinance.org. To help out with a loan as low as VND500,000, go to kiva.org/partners/121

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 25

briefings

#

IN BRIEF

Over and Out For An Giang Vietnam News reported in September that Hung Vuong An Giang have been dissolved after their relegation from V-League to V-League 2 this season. A lack of funds was the primary reason. An Giang was promoted to the national premier league in 2013 after a 16-year wait, but managed to stay in V-League for only one year.

BRIEFINGS

Sports Digest From the sidelines, Harry Hodge sizes up Vietnam’s month in sports

Footballers Score Criminal Sentences Tuoi Tre has reported that a Vietnamese court recently ruled against nine football players from V-League club The Vissai Ninh Binh for betting on their own game at an Asian Football Confederation (AFC) Cup in March. Tran Manh Dung, a 24-year-old midfielder, was given a 30-month sentence for instigating the betting.

Vietnam’s ‘Messi’ Makes Headlines Vietnamese striker Cong Phuong scored the lone goal in a 1-0 win over Australia at the ASEAN Football Federation’s Nutifood U-19 Cup in Hanoi, Thanh Nien reported. The 19-year-old captain, hailing from Hoang Anh Gia Lai Arsenal JMG Football Academy, was likened to Barcelona FC’s star Lionel Messi after passing six Australian defenders to rip a rocket past the Australian goalie, drawing worldwide acclaim in so doing.

Octagenarian Overachiever The Asia Book of Records recognised 83-year-old Vietnamese citizen Huynh Van Rang for climbing the 3,143-metre-high Mount Fansipan four times in northern Vietnam, according to Tuoi Tre. The Vietnam Book of Records and the Hoang Lien Ecological Tourism and Environmental Education Center also recognised his exploit.

tes pda us u your or d n Se about group @ ry rting har m spo ent to nam.co ev dviet wor

NATIONAL

The Heat Lose a Legend While the Saigon Heat are having their best season on the hardwood, this will go down as one of the toughest years in the team’s short history.

In their latest campaign in the ASEAN Basketball League (ABL), the Heat have already eclipsed their win total from any of their previous seasons, and might finally make the playoffs. But, in light of the events of Sep. 22, much of the enthusiasm surrounding this season has been extinguished.

Just hours after a crucial 72-61 victory over archrivals the Indonesia Warriors — the Heat claiming fourth-place in the standings, the best they’ve ranked this late in any season — head coach Jason Rabedeaux was found unconscious after a fall in his home, and died en route to the hospital on the morning of Monday, Sep. 22.

An outpouring of emotion flooded the Internet in the hours following his death, with fans and

HAT TIPPED FOR HANOI

STADIUM ROCKED

One of the ultimate experiences in Southeast Asia is returning to Hanoi.

Since the first Vietnam Hat ultimate Frisbee tourney took place in Hanoi in 2004, the Vietnam Hat Ultimate Tournament hasn’t returned, being held in Ho Chi Minh City for the last nine years.

This year, Vietnam Hat organisers have decided to relocate Vietnam Hat 2014 to Hanoi, to help not only grow the scene in that city but to take advantage of the cooler December temperatures. This will be one of the highlights of the Southeast Asian ultimate calendar, joining the ranks of tournaments in Cambodia, The Philippines and elsewhere.

The tournament will be held from Dec. 20 to Dec. 21 in Hanoi, and the VND1.7 million entry fee includes games, a disc, lunches, dinner, party drinks, shuttle buses and plenty of free beer.

For more information, visit hanoi-ultimate.com/ vietnamhat2014.

According to Thanh Nien and Tuoi Tre, officials have blamed shoddy construction for a shocking ceiling collapse at a Ho Chi Minh City stadium midway through an international badminton tournament.

Miraculously, no one was injured when 40 square metres of plaster ceiling collapsed onto the court at Phan Dinh Phung Stadium in Ho Chi Minh City in September. A Taiwanese player noticed dust beginning to fall, and a referee was able to clear the court before the deluge descended from the ceiling.

The collapse was heavily viewed on YouTube before the video’s eventual removal.

The accident has drawn widespread outcry.

The Vietnam Badminton Open 2014 continued after organisers relocated the event to another stadium in the city. More than 270 players from 15 countries and regions competed for a total prize of US$50,000 (VND1.06 billion).

DOMINANT IN DANANG Photos by Kyle Phanroy

staff from his day at the University of Texas-El Paso to those who followed him during his coaching days in China, all were in disbelief at the loss of the larger-than-life ‘Coach Rabs’ at just 49 years of age.

“A solid guy whose enthusiasm for life was infectious,” said veteran ABL columnist Sean Farquhar on Twitter. “He will be missed by many.”

Having covered the Heat from their first press conference almost three years ago, Rabedeaux was the one constant on a team that finally seems to have figured out how to win. From the mid-season departure of former NBA player Julius Hodge in the team’s first year, to sitting through games where the Heat were down to eight players last season, it’s been a test of patience for the club’s raucous fan base and those of us covering the team.

But this season, American Justin Williams has been a force for the Heat. The former NBA cager with the Houston Rockets

and Sacramento Kings was in particularly fine form in a game at the end of September against cellar-dwellers Laskar Dreya, savaging them with a tripledouble that included 13 blocks.

Fellow American Dustin Scott and Vietnamese-American David Arnold provide more size for the squad, while Filipino imports Leo Avenido and Froilan Baguion bring extensive ABL experience to the table.

In what would be one of our last interviews together, an excited Rabedeaux waxed poetic about how far the team had come during a win earlier in the month against Sumatran side Laskar Dreya.

“It’s a whole new team,” he said, with obvious pride after that win. “I’m confident, but there are still many games left.”

But for Coach Rab, it’s a season — and a career — which ended far too early. If this team can keep on winning, that would be the ultimate tribute to one of the game’s true nice guys.

SWANS IN MANILA

Vietnamese runners dashed to eight medals at the Danang International Marathon during the Labour Day long weekend.

The marathon attracted more than 3,600 athletes from over 25 countries and territories to compete in a full marathon, a halfmarathon and a 5km ‘fun run’.

In the full marathon, Vietnam swept the podium on the men’s side, with Tran Van Loi on top, Hoang Nguyen Thanh taking silver and Nguyen Van Long nabbing bronze. On the women’s side, Hoang Thi Thanh took gold with Denmark’s Annete Haudrun taking second.

In the half-marathon, Do Quoc Luat, Le Tuan and Bui The Anh finished 1-2-3 for the men, and Phung Thi Hang took the women’s division.

All proceeds from the event benefitted Danang Cancer Hospital.

Fresh off a September triumph against the Philippine Eagles, the Vietnam Swans are concluding their year against Asia’s best Australian Rules Football squads.

Teams from The Philippines, Hong Kong, Japan, Malaysia, Thailand, Singapore, Indonesia, China, Vietnam and many more countries will be fighting it out for the AFL Asian Championship in The Philippines on Oct. 11.

The day consists of three round-robin pool matches per team, and then final matchups.

To make it all the way, a team has to win six games of football.

“The Swans have players from all parts of Vietnam... or from countries such as Canada, Ireland, USA, Korea and more,” says Vietnam Swans national president Josh Lee. “We really pride ourselves on welcoming people from all over.”

The event caps a season that saw the Swans come up just short at the Indochina Cup in Thailand in August.

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 27

on the margins Owner: Tuan Location: Corner of De Tham and Co Bac How long have you been open? More than one year.

Why did you decide to serve kebabs? It’s a new cuisine to Vietnamese people and Vietnamese people like to try out new foods.

Why kebabs instead of banh mi? The meat is slow roasted so it’s always hot and fresh unlike banh mi sandwiches that use mostly processed meat. All my ingredients are purchased daily from the local market. The profits for kebabs and banh mi are the same, but I provide a better product.

What did you do before you opened your kebab stand? I worked for a petroleum company for several years. But, with the economic downturn, my company went bankrupt and I lost my job.

How does running a food stand compare with your previous position? Running a food stand is much better. The hours are longer, but the profits are much higher than my previous salary. Also when I sell out I can go home. I set my own hours.

Where did you get the idea for a kebab stand? My cousin is a resident in Germany and he told me about it. I was convinced this would be a successful business and invested in four carts. As soon as the economy improves I will bring the other carts out of storage.

Where did you get the equipment? The spit is made in Vietnam, but the heating element had to be imported from Turkey.

How many do you sell in a day? One average about 100. But on busy days I can sell up to 200.

What are your hours of operation? I start at 3pm and finish at 9pm, or when I run out of product.

Do you sell on rainy days? Of course. I’m under a canopy. Rain is not an issue for me.

What changes have you noticed about Vietnam in the last 10 years? You see a lot of change on the surface. But the cost of living is rising much faster than the average family income. The buying power of the average consumer has declined. Same as anywhere else in the world.

What is your opinion on the current economy? Compared with four years ago it’s slow. But, it’s stable at the moment.

What are your hopes for the future? I hope the overall global economy improves along with Vietnam. If it does, my revenue will increase and I can put my other carts on the street.

28 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

BRIEFINGS

HCMC

A Duong Kebab Stand

By Glen Riley.

Riley. Translated by Mi Nguyen and Le Thi Quynh Ngan

What: Selfish Soup Where: Le Thanh Ton, Ho Chi Minh City

What: A branding problem Where: Bao Loc in Cao Bang

What: Commission or commitment?

Where: Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne

PHOTO BY EMILY HUCKSON

PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

PHOTO BY EMILY HUCKSON

BRIEFINGS

L

NATIONAL

Hav sign e you se gigg s that m en any of th le? Tak ake yo ea u em in — and se photo nd t the me h edito rrier. Si more th em m e r @ p ly w and we’ll ordvietn email am.c d o shar o e th ur best om em o to n.

Sign of the Times

anguage is a funny thing — translating from one to another can often be fraught with difficulty and, of course, errors. From ham buggers all the way through to swimming crap, we

thought we’d seen it all. Maybe we haven’t.

Here are a few of the more amusing signs recently spotted in Vietnam. Yes, we know it’s at other people’s expense. But sometimes it’s just good to laugh.

Photos by Francis Xavier

Cat of the Month Nike

N

ike was first featured with her sister Rocky back in July — part of the tortie twosome known as ‘The Troubles’. Together, they jumped, squirmed, pounced and preened their way into our hearts.

But Rocky’s since gone, adopted into a loving family, and only cute Nike is left to prowl around the Cat Ranch for fishing pole toys and shadows, her adorable paunch swinging about. She is playful, cuddly, has beautiful big eyes and is very easygoing. Named after the Goddess of Victory, she will catch all toys and just might win your heart in the process.

She’s active, spayed, fully vaccinated and waiting for you to take her home today. Contact arcpets@gmail.com to make your date with kitty destiny.

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 29

to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

10

OCT. FRIDAY

POP GOES THE FRENCH SINGER-SONGWRITER

03

OCT. FRIDAY

HAEWON SHIN / LEAD ARCHITECT OF LOKALDESIGN The first of RMIT’s new architecture series speakers comes at an interesting, turbulent time in Saigon, a time where great changes are being made for better or worse.

And South Korean architect Haewon Shin has been thinking about this stuff too — the 2013 winner of Korea’s Young Architect Award focuses on “meaningful changes that can be created when architecture

08

is incorporated into public and everyday space”. The lecture is part of a three-day practice research symposium series, and it should start it with some provocative thoughts.

Haewon Shin speaks at the Lecture Theatre (Building 2, Level 1, Room 4) at RMIT Saigon South Campus (702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, HCMC). The lecture is free and starts at 6pm. For more info, contact graham.crist@rmit.edu.au

Sophie Maurin is coming to IDECAF on Oct. 10 with her trademark creativity, blending classical training with vocal sweetness in a pop concoction The Beatles would approve of.

Sophie Maurin comes to IDECAF, 28 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC, doors at 8pm. Entry is VND160,000 — VND80,000 for students

18

OCT. SATURDAY

OCT. WEDNESDAY

CHRISTINA NOBLE’S NEW WORLD The New World Hotel has been one of Saigon’s finest five-star options ever since it opened its doors 20 illustrious years ago.

Like any 20-year-old they’re excited, and celebrating the occasion with a bang.

The 20-Year Anniversary Charity Gala Dinner will welcome lion dancers, local stars and a five-course menu composed by a team of Richard Hilton, Executive Chef of New World Beijing, Ivan Chieregatti, Executive Chef at New World Makati and Saju Rajappan, Executive

Chef of New World Saigon.

But the star of the night is the Christina Noble Children’s Foundation, with all ticket proceeds going to benefit the disadvantaged children it supports.

The New World Hotel’s 20Year Anniversary Charity Gala is at New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, HCMC. Tickets run VND4.2 million net per person, which include a free room for every couple. For more information or to reserve, contact Ly at (08) 3829 4000 ext. 2812, or email ly.le@ newworldhotels.com

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BIKING TO SAVE LIVES Cycling is good for the environment, this we all know. But Ho Tram Water Safety believes it can actually save lives, and they’re holding a Charity Bike Ride to test that theory. Sponsors are your responsibility, but the organisers believe you can raise VND6 million per person. Biking a beautiful route down to an even more beautiful destination, this

might just be the easiest good deed you’ve ever done.

The Charity Bike Ride for Ho Tram Water Safety starts at Cat Lai at 6am (140km) or Long Thanh at 7am (80km) and finishes up with a lovely barbecue in Ho Tram.

Registration is at The Bike Shop, 250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC, VND1.6 million per rider. For more info, check facebook.com/hotramwatersafety

21-24

OCT. IPAD CREATIVE KIDS WORKSHOP Your kid is getting one of those long weekends, and you’re worried they’ll just waste the whole thing on their iPad. Well, under the guidance of iKnow and Ta Lai Longhouse, that’s not a bad thing! From Oct. 21 to 24, the iPad Creative Workshop is coming to Cat Tien National Park, filled with fun activities that straddle the line between electronic addiction and natural immersion. iPads in their hands, kids will go scavenger hunting, stargazing, bamboo raft building and, erm, kayaking.

Get their heads out of the Cloud and back in the clouds where they belong!

Kids from nine to 14 years are invited on the iPad Creative Workshop at Cat Tien National Park. The fee is VND6 million net for the three-night, four-day camp.

For more info, email info@talaiadventure.vn, or just stop by iKnow — 63 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC

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OCT. SATURDAY

ARTS FOR MOBILITY Arts have a transformative ability, something that’s never specified though we know it’s there.

Since 2008, Arts for Mobility has been putting a value to this experience — one measured in the thousands of wheelchairs donated to the disabled and disadvantaged of Vietnam.

For the first time this year, Arts for Mobility has joined its efforts with those of Saigon Chamber Music. The two came together earlier this year in a classical showcase of 19 young musicians from the three leading national music academies.

The collaboration will be titled Viet Nam’s New Virtuosos 2014, and will perform classics by Bach, Dvorak, Mozart and more. A silent art auction and refreshments will also be part of the evening.

The 2014 edition of Arts Mobility takes place at the Saigon Opera House — 7 Lam Son Square, Q1, HCMC — with refreshments and a silent auction at 6pm, and music from 7.30pm. Tickets are VND500,000 for adults, VND250,000 for students. All proceeds go towards the work of Kids First Enterprise

Halloween 24TH FRIDAY The Halloween Classic JoyRide Halloween is coming up, and there’s no better time to flaunt your new costume than the weekend before. The Bike Shop is inviting you to mount your trusty steed — even dress it up — in a critical mass of fun proportions, with prizes for the best costumes! Make sure you bring a good attitude, your helmet and a bicycle with lights to The Bike Shop at 7pm, and get ready to celebrate the joy of cycling with a horde of likeminded road racers!

The ride starts at 7pm at The Bike Shop, 250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC. Contact thebikeshopvn@ gmail.com for info on bike rentals

25TH + 26TH WEEKEND A Station Bizarre Bazaar With Halloween just around the corner, 3A Station is getting weird. On the weekend before Halloween, they’ll have a special Halloween bazaar, with lucky draws, live music, ‘treat or cheat’, free face painting, free scary nail art and their usual assortment of the best artisans and creative swag in town.

Pop by from 8am to 9pm and get into the spirit of the season!

3A Station is at 3A Thang Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC. The Halloween Bazaar runs all weekend, from 8am to 9pm

30TH + 31ST OCT. Seventeen Saloon Burns Bright Seventeen Saloon has hellfirepowered parties going on both Devil’s Night (the night before Halloween) and Halloween itself in Saigon and Danang, with ‘rages of nature’ and ambiguous but fun sounding ‘cataclysms’ expected. Oct. 30 coincides with a party called The Hell Fire, while Halloween itself will feature game shows, a Halloween fashion show and the trippy Time Dancing Group.

Seventeen Saloon is at 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, HCMC and Z72-77 Tran Hung Dao, Son Tra, Danang.

Check 17saloon.vn for more info

31ST OCT. + 1ST NOV. Rocky Horror Halloween Doing the Time Warp has somehow become a Halloween tradition here. Bust out your favourite fishnets and stilettos for this annual feast of awesomeness, and get ready for things to get rocky!

Rocky Horror Halloween Madness happens at 7.30pm both nights at McSorley’s, 4 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC. For bookings and inquiries, contact saigonplayers@gmail.com. All proceeds go to Operation Smile Vietnam and Viet Hearts

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to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

Dance Parties Photo by Dave Lemke

FRIDAY OCT. 3 Alex From Tokyo Expertly eclectic and globally recognized, Alex From Tokyo has played in some of the most well-respected underground clubs on the planet. His sets go from ethereal sounds to stringlicked instrumental syncopation, stepping into the worlds of both old school and advanced house and techno. A veteran of residencies in both Tokyo and New York, this is his first Saigon show.

Alex From Tokyo will be excavating Saigon’s chakras at The Observatory (cnr. of Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, HCMC) with support from Hibiya Line.

Doors at 10pm, entry VND100,000

Lip Service Resident sexologists Joey-T and Starchild bring you a night of smooth slow jams, R&B, hip-hop, soul, boogie and music to groove with your boo to. Get ready to make sweet, sweet love on the dancefloor — all... night... long.

Lip Service will seduce you at Broma (41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC), VND50,000 entry

SATURDAY OCT. 4 Battle of the Month Ok, so maybe it’s not the kind of throwdown we hosted in August, but Song’s urban style dance show has everything else urban, featuring the dynamic styles of John Huy Tran and Urban Dance Group, and hip-hop dancers, circus performers, beat-boxers, graffiti artists, My Tam, Phuong Vy and others. At Hoa Binh Theater Oct. 4, it will be the latest attempt to catch dance lightning in a bottle, or at least in a stage routine.

To get the full rundown on Song’s showcase at Hoa Binh Theater — 3

Thang 2, Q10, HCMC — visit facebook.com/songdanceshow

SATURDAY OCT. 11 Outcast Live Music Saturdays Dat Phonk is one of Saigon’s supafunkiest bands. And, at Saigon Outcast’s Live Music Saturdays, they’ll inundate you with disco boogie jams.

Dat Phonk will devastate your funk receptors at Saigon Outcast (188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC), VND50,000 entry

THURSDAY OCT. 16 Last Call’s Second Anniversary As a chillax hub, an after party location and the place with the best classy happy hour in town, Last Call’s become part of our lives. And it’s hard to believe it’s been only two years. The bar will remind you of that fact on the 16th with DJs, drinks, food and fun, the usual mix of stuff we’ve gone to them for from the start.

Last Call’s second anniversary party is 9pm till late at Last Call, 59 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC, freeee

FRIDAY OCT. 17 Gangster Cat Haus CIS and Starchild deliver the deep and dirty underground electric jams that are needed to keep your body moving all night. In Starchild’s words: “Let's get weird!”

Gangster Cat Haus will claw all of your cortexes at Broma (41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC), VND50,000 entry

FRIDAY OCT. 24 Anchorsong + Kay Suzuki Anchorsong — aka Masaaki

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Yoshida — is famous for his live shows, which people have described as “like watching a painter drawing on a white canvas” — as he creates electronic music completely live using a sampler (MPC2500) and a keyboard. He’s joined by Londonbased Kay Suzuki, a renaissance producer / sushi chef type. Kay is influenced by music that has a sociocultural background — like the West African traditional musicians he featured on the first single he released — rather than a particular genre or style. Whether it’s electronic or live music, it’s all about the pure reflection of the vibration from a particular time and space.

These crazy Japanese dudes are playing at The Observatory (cnr. of Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, HCMC), doors at 10pm, entry VND100,000

SATURDAY OCT. 25 Live Funk Dat Phonk will be turning up the funk meter to 11, while DJs Starchild and Datodeo stir the funk soup and play only the dopest, dappest soul, funk, disco and boogie vinyls!

Dat Phonk and DJs Starchild and Datodeo are serving the funk soup at La Fenetre Soleil (44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, HCMC), VND50,000 entry

Boiler Room Founder Thris Tian Boiler Room is the biggest underground music show in the world, and its founder Thris Tian is coming to Saigon for a deep house date with local mavens Nic Ford and Hibiya Line. From researching slots alongside Gilles Peterson and at Soul Jazz, he’s now Boiler Room’s programming director across Europe, Africa and Asia, and his well-travelled selections run from West African grooves to Norwegian gospel.

He’s played alongside Detroit legends Theo Parrish and Moodymann, London young guns Jamie XX, James Blake and Disclosure, and musical pioneers Mulatu, Erykah Badu and Q-Tip. Now he’s here.

Thris Tian brings the bPm to The Observatory (cnr. of Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, HCMC), doors at 10pm, entry VND100,000

SAVE

The Date 01

NOV.

THE SAIGON MELBOURNE CUP For Australians, Nov. 1 is a day to recall all the triumphs of the past — specifically the past 153 years, each of which has hosted the Melbourne Cup, Australia’s premiere horse racing derby.

AusCham hasn’t forgotten either, and they’re holding the first Saigon Melbourne Cup celebration at the aptlynamed Reverie Hotel.

The Saigon Melbourne Cup will have special horse races where people can purchase horses with cash to win prizes from sponsors. The cash will be donated directly to charity. In addition, modelled off the Melbourne Cup’s Fashions on the Field, they will have Fashions on the ‘Gon, with 10 Vietnamese models dressed in ao dais, wearing striking hats that have been designed by Kan Kanemura exclusively for the Saigon Melbourne Cup, and an amateur catwalk category.

The Saigon Melbourne Cup will be at the new Reverie Hotel on Nov. 1, 11am to 4pm. For more information or to reserve a ticket for VND3 million, contact events@auschamvn.org or (08) 3832 9912

7th TO 9th NOV. nov 07-. 09

12

REAL MADRID FOOTBALL CLINIC

WILD BEASTS TO WILE OUT IN SAIGON

Real Madrid is coming to Vietnam’s football scene in a big way. Working in concert with the YKK Asia Group Kids Football Clinic CSR project — which has organised football clinics for underprivileged children across Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, Philippines, Singapore, Sri

Lanka, Thailand and Vietnam — and YHA, the now-annual clinic will bring in 30 local coaches and 250 kids into its four sessions. For once, the underprivileged of Vietnam are going to get an experience that money can’t buy.

For more information go to sportingrepublic.com

UK indie royalty Wild Beasts — of the same jangly stock as Domino labelmates Arctic Monkeys and Franz Ferdinand — are headed to Cargo Bar on Nov. 12, on the heels of their fourth release Present Tense. In their Vietnam debut, they’ll seek to charm concertgoers with heavenly falsetto songs and

beguiling melodies, supported

by Saigon’s own Space// Panther.

Loud Minority presents Wild Beasts at Cargo Bar (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC), supported by Space//Panther. Doors are at 8pm, tickets are VND350,000 in advance — available at ticketbox.vn — and VND250,000 with student ID

THE CMI-HEART INSTITUTE CHARITY GALA

the adults they’ve operated on. No child is ever refused care out of financial need.

Yet their ambitions extend beyond their means, which is why they’ve run an awesome gala for the past three years at Park Hyatt Saigon. This year, the dress code is ‘Monte Carlo Casino’, and the champagne will flow during a four-course French dinner, live

performances and a charity auction. As if you needed more incentive to help.

Tickets for the Nov. 22 CMIHeart Institute Charity are VND2.9 million, available at CMI (1 Han Thuyen, Q1, HCMC) and all Annam Gourmet locations in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information, contact lorraine.alamartine@cmi-vietnam. com or call (08) 3827 2366/67

22

NOV.

In the world of heart surgery, no-one stands as tall as Alain Carpentier. The man who conducted the first artificial heart transplant in Europe in 1986, Carpentier has also designed the first completely artificial heart ever — used in a successful transplant for the first time last year.

Vietnam is lucky to be the beneficiary of one of the greatest parts of his legacy, the CMI — Vietnam’s first cardiac institute. With the help of partner organisation The Heart Institute, they’ve provided funding to save the lives of 4,000 children over the past 20 years — not to mention

NOV.

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 33

to do list

22

Ho Chi Minh City SAIGON CHARITY BAZAAR @ THE DECK

NOV.

It’s a Thao Dien tradition.

The Deck will once again host their 50-vendor bazaar at The Deck, for the 8th year running. Sign up alongside crafters and charities such as Vietnam Quilts, Mekong Creations, Grace Cookies and Operation Smile — along with local artisans and shops — to participate in one of the things that makes Thao Dien the shopping oasis it is in our fair city. All proceeds from tables and 5 percent of each vendor’s profits will go to Heart Beat Vietnam.

The Saigon Charity Bazaar goes from 10am to 4pm at The Deck, 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, HCMC. For vendor information and other enquiries, contact Dominique Lampel at 0906 011390 or domlampel@hotmail.com

NIGHT MOVES The Color Me Run guys are back with another fun concept, and a stupid cool international megastar lined up for the afterconcert: DJ Lil Jon. The concept is

another 5km fun run — this one at sunset, called Prisma — The Night Run (anyone else getting some 1980s vibes there?). After, the Ambassador of Crunk will hopefully answer a question that’s been burning through most of our minds — what does the dude sound like without autotune (or will he do random mid-DJ shout outs with autotune??)?

Prisma — The Night Run will kick off at 5.30pm, Nov. 22, in District 2, HCMC. Before Oct. 19, tickets are VND550,000 each — until Nov. 9, they’re VND650,000. Find out more at facebook.com/theprismarun

AIR FRANCE-KLM GALA EXCEEDS EXPECTATIONS How much can 300 people in a room be expected to raise for charity — no matter how generous and high-profile they are?

Well, whatever number flashes through your mind, it’s probably not the VND2.15 billion (US$100,000) that Air France-KLM’s March

Charity Gala raised — which was disbursed amongst Air

34 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

France-KLM Vietnam’s five partner charities last month.

Consular Club HCMC, The Heart Foundation, Hy Vong 1 School for the Deaf and Dumb, Mai Nha Children’s Foundation and Nam Phuong Foundation each received VND430 million on Sep. 5, in a ceremony at Ly Club in Ho Chi Minh City.

22

PRIME MOVER

DEC.

Dan Bi Mong DJ Hibiya Line, Founder/Art Director at The Observatory facebook.com/ theobservatoryhcmc

Whether coursing out the deep house and nu disco in DJ form, or keeping the tempo party-like and positive on a typical night at smooth jam hub The Observatory, Dan has helped bring the Saigon scene to where it is.

Show I’m really excited about

SEMINAL POP-PUNKERS THE LEMONHEADS ARE COMING! For those of us born before the 1990s, The Lemonheads and their messy, awesome, charming sounds represent the path alternative-rock could have taken. Word contributor Evan Hudson went so far as to say, “Oh sh_____t this is awesome!

My favorite Evan in the world besides me, this is going to rock,

oh sh_t.” There you have it.

For more info on the upcoming show, contact dkilroy7@yahoo.co.uk, or keep an eye on facebook.com/ loudminorityvietnam. Presented

by Loud Minority, it all happens at Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Support by The Secret Asians and James and the Van Der Beeks

Three in fact. First, Alex From Tokyo (Oct. 3 at The Observatory), one of the most eclectic and skilled DJs of the international circuit. Second, ANCHORSONG (Oct. 24 at The Observatory), a young guy from Tokyo who plays deep house live, a real one man orchestra!

Finally, Thris Tian (Oct. 25 at The Observatory), the founder of Boiler Room!

Best night out last month Day boat party on an old junk on the Hong Kong bay with all the Cliché Records crew and other DJs from Southeast Asia invited to play for the FODIA (Federation of DJs in Asia) launch party at Ozone Bar.

Best meal from last month Every meal is a feast in Vietnam!

But probably a random fish I bought on the side of the road at 6am coming back from a party. I was going to fry it and eat it with some homemade mayonnaise, but I was too tired and the mayonnaise turned out badly, so I decided to make a sauce out of that. It turned out fantastic!

Song I can’t get out of my head I Love To Dance (Joey Negro Extended Disco Mix)

I wish this band would come to town

Cymande. They will perform again in Manchester for the first time after some decades of not playing any shows. We can hopefully cross our fingers and dream that one day they will play a show in Asia.

How is the scene is going in general?

It’s incredible what has been done over the past two years.

So many new promoters, DJs, musicians and venues have appeared and it’s continuing to grow. People are asking for more and more different types of acts and I feel that slowly we are going from general types of music events to shows that are a bit more specialised.

The best secret in town is … is kept secret! But the second best one that is not so secret is the bia hoi on Thi Sach.

Where I go when I go out on my own Past District 7 in the countryside to have a walk in nature, with some beers and a good fish.

If my older-yet-still-cool Mom came to town, I would take her to She’s already come two times!

And we did the grand slam!

She is now 70 and we did crazy motorbike trips in the mountains, partied together at The Observatory and went to have a street rum session… her endurance almost killed me!

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 35

just in

Ho Chi Minh City

CAFE ZOOM’S VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURES IN HOI AN Cafe Zoom’s stylish tour group has just set up their first tours in Hoi An — operated out of a Cafe Zoom location similar to the version in Saigon. Currently, they have three tours on offer — a four-hour Foodie Night Tour,

a four-hour Cultural Villages Tour and a four-and-a-half hour Countryside & Islands Tour.

The new Cafe Zoom is at 134 Tran Cao Van, Hoi An. For more info on the tours they offer, go to vietnamvespaadventures.com

MAGONN’S NEW FLAGSHIP STORE

IT’S FALL/WINTER IN RB&K STYLE

It’s a good thing Magonn Design specialises in well-tailored clothes, because they’re getting bigger.

The eighth store in the Magonn family just opened on Nguyen Trai, with their new Fall-Winter 2014 Collection. Practical yet stylish, modern but with a pitch of nostalgia for the shapes of the 1950s and 1960s, Magonn is becoming a standard-bearer for a new generation of Vietnamese women — those who can be sophisticated yet also playful.

Check out the new Magonn Design Flagship Store at 105 Nguyen Trai, Q1, HCMC

Now available at The House of Saigon, RB&K is back for the season shift with a new line of dashing threads. Born on the crossroads of European and Asian culture, RB&K has emerged with a combination style, using untraditional fabrics to capture the breezy simplicity that comes in shifting worlds effortlessly.

Check out RB&K’s new Fall/ Winter Collection at rbkandco. com, or browse through their styles at The House of Saigon, 16-18-20 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, HCMC

LIMOCELLO IN DANANG STEP AWAY FROM THE BAY Mango Bay Phu Quoc is known for its simple, eco-friendly elegance. But not everyone wants simplicity, so Mango Bay is taking rustic luxury to another level — with five elegant traditional bayview villas on a hilltop eight metres above the beach. Combining

classic Vietnamese heritage with modern international style, the villas are all finished with natural rammed earth walls and nestled within a natural forest, overlooking panoramic views of the bay.

Check out the view at mangobayphuquoc.com

The minds behind Ho Chi Minh City’s La Hostaria and Nha Trang and Hoi An’s Good Morning Vietnam restaurants is moving up the coast with their latest Italian bistro, Limoncello. Their menu features homemade pasta, meat and fish dishes, salads, soups and thin-crust Italian pizza.

Limoncello is at 187 Tran Phu, Danang, limoncellovn.com

BLACKOUT New restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City are a dime a veritable dozen. But few can claim to be as truly unique as Blackout.

Located upstairs in the lounge space that was once occupied by Vasco’s, opened in early September this new eatery is the only restaurant in Vietnam where diners eat in complete darkness.

Using a menu similar to that of modern French and Mediterranean restaurant

situated next door, La Camargue, instead of plating dishes in classic European fine dining style here all the cuisine is divided into small portions and served up on trays.

“When you’re eating in the dark it is difficult to use a knife and fork,” says restaurateur Alexander Egert. “So we have prepared the dishes like finger food to make it easy to find with your hands and easy to eat.”

With four set menus available

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— meat, seafood, vegetarian and mystery — diners are given three sets of trays; a starter, main course and a dessert. Served up by blind waiting staff, all of whom speak English, diners eat in complete blackness without even the accompaniment of their smart phones or watches. To prevent spillage, wine is served up in tumblers rather than standard wine glasses.

The effect is a unique

dining experience, both in terms of conversation and the appreciation of the cuisine. It’s also an experience that asks questions about how we enjoy cuisine and how important sight is to the culinary experience.

Blackout is on the first floor, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, HCMC, above Vasco’s and next to the Refinery. To reserve a table call (08) 3824 3149. For more information email alexanderegert@me.com

just in The Art Wall

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE KEEPS MOTORING One of Saigon’s premiere scooter sources for 17 years, Saigon Scooter Centre has spread their turn signals over to Tan Binh and District 2 — home to their two new locations. Check them out when you’re ready to step up your moto game, at 20 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, HCMC, in the Cong Hoa Garden Industrial Zone opposite Lotte Mart, or the pastoral 35 Quoc Huong, Q2, HCMC. For more info, check saigonscootercentre.com

FRIDAY 3RD Rapture in Lacquer Hailing from the ‘lacquer village’ in Binh Duong, Nguyen Quang Son was fated to pursue the medium. But, with his Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts University background, he saw uncommon possibilities for lacquer, and has pursued them in his Black and White exhibition at Craig Thomas Gallery.

Eschewing the traditional themes of temples and rural life common to most Vietnamese lacquer painting, Son has chosen a more abstract route for his latest collection.

Nguyen Quang Son’s Black and White opening reception goes from 6pm to 9pm at Craig Thomas Gallery, 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, HCMC. The exhibition runs until Nov. 3

SATURDAY 11TH Art Market, Cubed

THE MEATBALL COOKERY As Saigon gets more specialised, it becomes a more engaging place to live. And The Meatball Cookery is part of that evolution.

First, pick your meat — pork, beef, chicken paprika or eggplant cheese — then choose a sauce (go with a traditionalist tomato basil or something more upbeat like the spicy curry). Then a side — spaghetti, maybe? And what do you have? A meatball sandwich.

It slots into that specific craving that some of us have, however submerged. The Meatball Cookery, with its little gourmet touches, might just reawaken it.

The Meatball Cookery is on the 1st Floor, 151/5 Dong Khoi, Q1, HCMC. Check facebook.com/themeatballcookery for some vicarious fills

VinGallery has hosted its popular art markets since last year, and now they’re trying out The Cube Bar for a venue.

Featuring handmade arts and crafts, paintings, drawings and limited-edition prints, it’ll be the place to come to if you want to grab some artist-made swag.

VinGallery’s Art Market runs from 10am to 4pm at The Cube Bar, 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, HCMC

WEDNESDAY 15TH Craig Thomas Gallery at the Sofitel Craig Thomas Gallery will follow up its successful Bui Tien Tuan exhibition with another hotel wall hanging of one of Vietnam’s brightest stars, Hanoi-based Nguyen The Hung. The retrospective will focus on his Little Flowers

series, printed with acrylic and sometimes gouache and watercolour on do paper, showing the spiritual world’s intersection with nature.

Nguyen The Hung’s Little Flowers series will exhibit until Nov. 18. For more info, check cthomasgallery.com, or just stop into Sofitel Saigon Plaza at 17 Le Duan, Q1, HCMC

ALL MONTH Breaking the Fifth Wall Hanoi-based photographer Jamie Maxtone-Graham is taking his practice into a new arena with his first Galerie Quynh exhibition — within the frame of his photographs. In That Little Distance, the artist combines the roles of subject and photographer, appearing in every image and playing with the symbolism of light and location.

Shot in a former State-owned and now vacant pharmaceutical factory in Hanoi, the only light in these pictures comes from a large, north-facing window, which permits only a soft, indirect light throughout the course of the day. The subjects Maxtone-Graham poses with are unidentified — “they exist equally — in relation to one another”.

That Little Distance is on view at Galerie Quynh’s downtown location — Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi, Q1, HCMC — until Oct. 31

The Month in High Concept Traditional wisdom has long had it that artists don’t think too much about money. San Art’s group show Conjuring Capital rejects that myth emphatically, taking a page from Marx and contrasting it with the neo-colonial realities of our modern world. Part of

the Conscious Realities series, the show puts human/jungle/ museum dioramas, Buddhist ritual practice, a snake which straddles death and mortality, African microfinance and Indian holy sites into the same arena, examining each in terms of its place in the schema of global capital.

Upstairs from Conjuring Capital is another group exhibition, Autumn Galleria.

It’s autumn recollected in images of television, nature and death, and it’s probably the closest you’ll get to any kind of autumn in Saigon.

Both shows run through Oct. 30 at San Art — 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, HCMC. For more information go to san-art.org

Drawing the Cities Vietnam’s cities are maddening yet evocative, and art can help you get a handle on them. This month, VinSpace is offering two participatory programmes aimed at making artistic sense of both Hanoi and Saigon.

On Oct. 9, the Canvas & Wine series will feature the work of Bui Xuan Phai (1920-1988), one of the most remarkable, most charming and most unusual figures of Vietnamese modern art. He is considered Vietnam’s most significant and popular artist of urban space, and at VinSpace Art Studio (6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC) you will learn to paint Hanoi street scenes in his style.

And throughout the month, British artist Bridget March will teach adult classes in sketching and watercolour, called Drawing Saigon. She’s helped both beginners and pros with her inspirational, sympathetic approach: “I believe if you can write, you can draw.”

Find out the details at vinspace.com

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 37

overscene ho chi minh

through the mist

Photos by Glen Riley The acclaimed AO Show aren’t just stopping with one production. Now they’ve got two — their second show, Mist, was previewed in September.

Independence Day

Photos by Phil Deans The Sailing Club in Nha Trang celebrated Independence Day on the beach with all that hedonistic independence they’re so famous for.

Brooks Brothers

Photos provided by Brooks Brothers The arrival of one of the US’s best known top-end clothing brands adds another pin to the pin cushion of Ho Chi Minh City fashion options.

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.

Air France Gala

Photos provided by Air France A thank you night to Air France’s sponsors and supporters was held at Ly Club. This year’s gala raised an incredible VND2.1 billion for charitable causes in Vietnam.

Evita Bears its Teeth

Photos by Glen Riley Evita Bistro in City Garden finally opened its doors to the general public with a party that saw women dressed in white and men dressed in whatever clothes they wear normally.

disney at ais

Photos provided by AIS Mickey and his wide cohort of furry friends descended on the Australian International School last month as part of a tour that brought Mickey’s Magic Show to Vietnam.

to do list

03-04

hanoi

OCT.

04

OCT. SATURDAY

DJ CHAMBER AT EDEN

THE RETURN OF VOODOO FRANK If you were lucky to be at the Voodoo Funk gig last time round, when funkmeister and rare vinyl collector Frank Gossner delighted the Hanoi crowds, then you’ll know what you’re in store for. The two shows he’s putting on at CAMA ATK — Voodoo Funk on Oct. 3 and Lagos Disco Inferno on Oct. 4 — will get you dancing to the sounds of Nigerian Disco, Boogie, Edofunk, Afrobeat and Afrofunk. And they’re set to be

04-10

every bit as good.

This is one of those rarities that you MUSTN’T miss.

The unheralded music being created in the world’s most underprivileged continent is something to behold. And the African cuts Gossner will be selecting can’t be heard anywhere else on the planet.

Entrance is VND100,000 for one night and VND150,000 for both nights. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

OCT.

Hip-hop, bass and breakbeat guru, DJ Chamber, will be descending on Eden Hanoi on Saturday Oct. 4.

Originally from Bristol (UK), the home of drum ‘n bass, but currently living in Kaohsiung, Taiwan, Chamber has gigged around the globe and was named the Best New Breaks DJ in the World at the Breakspoll International DJ awards.

He is also the host of a radio show on NSB Radio, and ‘head chef’ of the award-winning Bass Kitchen club night, making him one of the busiest DJs in bass music.

The night will kick off at 9pm and go on until late. Entrance is VND100,000 and Eden is at 264 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi

05

OCT. SUNDAY

THE SECOND HANOI OPEN EXHIBITION

CHANTAL REIKI HEALING In her highly anticipated first trip to Vietnam, internationally recognised Reiki Master, Chantal Phillips, will be conducting classes for Reiki Levels I & II this October.

Chantal is a highly skilled and gifted healer who is down to earth yet passionate and vibrant. This is an opportunity not to be missed. As well as the two classes, half-day workshops on Crystals and Space Clearing will be offered.

And for those wishing to experience a rare healing opportunity here in Hanoi, Chantal will also be providing

private healing sessions.

The two-day Reiki Level II programme takes place on Oct. 4 and Oct. 5. Cost per person is VND7 million.

The three-day evening course to study Reiki Level I takes place between Oct. 8 and Oct. 10. The cost per person is VND4.7 million.

For information on times and location as well as free talks, workshops and private sessions call Karen on 01275 588840 or email karen@a-roamingbodyworker.com.

To find out more about Chantal’s classes and private sessions visit her website, healingfire.com.

Arts collective and arts classes space, Workroom Four, will be hosting their second Hanoi Open Exhibition on Sunday Oct. 5 from 3pm.

The first open exhibition in 2013 showcased over 100 artworks produced by more than 60 artists. This year, the space has received a large range of submissions from established and unknown, professional and amateur, national and international artists.

Designed to be a unique showcase for art and design in a variety of style and media, including painting, sculpture, photography and mixed media, the works have been selected and curated by Workroom Four directors and artists.

This year, thanks to sponsorship from a number of organisations, seven different awards will be made. Works will be judged by a panel which will be overseen by Suzanne Lecht from the gallery, Art Vietnam.

Workroom Four is in the Packexim Building, Tower 1, Floor 24, No. 49, Lane 15 An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho, Hanoi.

For more information click on workroomfour.com

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10

OCT. THURSDAY

OCT. FRIDAY

EDM AT EDEN Hanoi’s number one EDM party — electronic dance music to me and you — is returning to Eden Hanoi on Friday Oct. 10.

Expect fire shows, magic and dancers going wild to Vietnam’s best EDM gurus who will be spinning on the decks late into the night.

Entrance is VND100,000 and the event goes on until late. Eden Hanoi is at 264 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi

STITCH N’ BITCH Knitters unite — Stitch n’ Bitch, a pastime dating back to World War II, is coming to Time Club in Hanoi for the first time ever on Oct. 9.

Socially-minded aficionados of the yarn-based arts are invited for an evening of witty banter, insightful cultural commentary, and adorable cat sweaters. While traditionally used as a forum for politically active women to challenge societal norms, Stitch n’ Bitch is open to needlewielders of all genders, abilities and conversational interests.

The bitch begins at 7pm at Time Club (6, 1/62 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi). Tickets are VND100,000 — includes free drink and a free knitting lesson. For more information, check out facebook.com/ timeclubhanoi

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OCT. SATURDAY

SOPHIE MAURIN Performing in Hanoi on Oct. 11, French singer-songwriter Sophie Maurin burst onto the international music scene with her 2013 album Far Away.

While often praised for her silky, feminine voice, Maurin is also an accomplished pianist and budding architect. She has

drawn acclaim for her charming lyrics and infectious melodies.

Her blend of blues and classical influences will be appreciated by those in need of a peaceful, mellow start to the weekend.

Curtains up at 8pm at L’Espace.

Students and members are eligible for discounted tickets — VND80,000. Tickets are available to the general public for VND160,000 and can be purchased at at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Hanoi.

Check out the show online at ifhanoilespace.com/sophie-maurin/view

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to do list

hanoi

23-24

OCT.

OKTOBERFEST AT THE JW MARRIOTT

18 12 OCT. SUNDAY LA TRAVIATA Cinematheque will screen a classic version of Verdi’s La Traviata on Sunday Oct. 12.

A story of unrequited love, death, duels, masked balls and revenge, the opera is based on the novel, The Lady of the Camellias, first published in 1848

by Alexandre Dumas, fils. La Traviata is arguably the world’s most popular opera.

The screening will take place at 7pm and Cinematheque is at 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi.

For more information email info@ hanoioperaguild.com

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OCT. SATURDAY

THE MOVEABLE FEAST

Pots ‘n Pans is teaming up with Hanoi Cooking Centre, L’Embellie, The Warehouse and Chapi Vietnam to put on their second Moveable Feast on Saturday Oct. 18.

After the success of the first inaugural Moveable Feast last year, the passionate restaurateurs and chefs are excited to work together on a sequel and bring together all the ingredients for an exceptional evening in Hanoi.

The evening will kick off at Manzi Art Space courtyard over canapés and cocktails. Then diners will move on to entrées under the stars and lights of the city on HCC’s roof terrace before taking in the panoramic views

of Hoan Kiem Lake and the Old Quarter as they indulge in their second entrée paring with great wines at The Warehouse on Hang Trong prepared and served by Pots ‘n Pans.

Main course is served in the heart of the French District at L’Embellie Restaurant. Finally, chill out in style with sweet treats at Pots ‘n Pans.

The event starts at 6.30pm on Saturday Oct. 18 and kicks off at Manzi, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh.

The cost is VND2.5 million per person. Tickets are available at Pots and Pans (57, Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung), HCC (44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh) and (L’Embellie, 49 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung)

DANISH MUSIC SHOWCASE

OCT. FRIDAY

CONCERT BY FANTASIA WIND QUINTET Featuring pieces from the romantic, classic, and contemporary eras, the Fantasia Wind Quintet will be presenting music lovers at Manzi with an evening of smooth, refined elegance on Oct. 17.

Founded in 2006, the Quintet features some of Vietnam’s most accomplished professional musicians — all members are teachers from the Vietnam National Academy of Music and performers in the Vietnam

Symphony Orchestra.

Their diverse talents and influences have delighted audiences at home and abroad and due to the group’s popularity and the intimate seating arrangement, it is recommended to reserve tickets in advance by emailing manzihanoi@gmail.com.

The performance is hosted by Manzi Art Space (14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi) and begins at 8pm.

Surcharge at door: VND200,000

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For the first time ever, Denmark’s hottest new music artists are visiting Vietnam thanks to the collaborative effort of CAMA Vietnam and the Danish Embassy in Hanoi.

Playing at CAMA ATK on Friday Oct. 17, Taragana Pygarama, whose remixes have garnered much critical acclaim since his debut in 2010, will get the party started. Lovers of cutting-edge electronic music will appreciate Lydmor’s all digital approach — just a keyboard, a computer, and assorted gadgets.

Rounding things off are Feel Freeze, an eclectic duo with the musical talent to match their heartwarming origin story. An extravaganza of accompanying visual effects will ensure that your eyes will be in for a treat as well.

The show is at CAMA ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi.

Doors open at 8pm. Tickets are VND80,000

The German Embassy and the German Business Association (GBA) have teamed up to put on a huge Oktoberfest celebration at the JW Marriott on Oct. 23 and Oct. 24.

Kicking off at 6pm and with 5,000 people expected to attend, this is the biggest celebration of great beer, pork knuckle, bratwurst, sauerkraut, pretzels, lederhosen, Bavarian folk music and all things German that Hanoi will experience this year.

With swinging beer mugs, dancing on the tables, and toasts aplenty — all to the backdrop of the JW Marriott’s attractive grounds — this is one of those annual events not to be missed.

Tickets cost VND1,100,000 per person and are available from the hotel (email hien.le@marriott.com) and the GBA (call (04) 3825 1420, Ms. Nhung, or email nhung.trinhthi@ vietnam.ahk.de). Members of the GBA get a VND100,000 discount. Prices are exclusive of VAT. The JW Marriott is at 8 Do Duc Duc, Tu Liem, Hanoi

23

ANCHORSONG Hosted by CAMA ATK, Anchorsong aka Masaaki Yoshida will be performing for the first time in Hanoi on Oct. 25 as part of his Autumn Asia tour.

A product of the Londonbased Tru Thoughts label (which counts Quantic, Mr. Scruff, and Zed Bias amongst its artists), Yoshida blends layers of blissful electronica into an atmospheric experience that has been likened to “watching a painter drawing on a white canvas”. His live performances have mesmerised audiences from England to Japan.

Avid members of the local music scene will be pleased to know that Yoshida will be accompanied

by ATK resident and DomDom wonder-experimentalist, Nguyen Do Minh Quan.

CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. The concert begins at 8pm. Tickets are VND80,000

OCT. THURSDAY

ART AND TALENT The second publication in Dao Mai Trang's book project on the visual art life in Vietnam, Art and Talent, will be launched at the Goethe Institut on Thursday Oct. 23.

Featuring 150 images of work by young artists from all over Vietnam, the programme will feature the participation of young artists and art critics, researchers and art lovers, and will include an open discussion about the real situation and hopes for the development of Vietnamese visual art.

Art and Talent will be launched on Oct. 23 at 7pm. The Goethe Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. For more information go to goethe.de

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OCT. THURSDAY

REGGAE PARTY AT TIME CLUB Calling all duppy conquerors — there’s a punky reggae party going down at Time Club on Oct. 25.

While the bustling streets of Hanoi might seem a far cry from the irie shores of Jamaica, this chilled-out jam session will put even the craziest baldhead in a mellow mood. Come chant down Babylon on the spacious terrace and enjoy the friendly,

laid-back atmosphere.

Entrance is VND100,000 and includes a free beer or soft drink, plus all the delicious herbal tea you care to drink. Because nothing says ‘reggae party’ like herbs and tea.

The party starts at 7pm. Find Time Club at 6, 1/62 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi or online at facebook. com/timeclubhanoi

OCT. TUESDAY

A DAY OF NOURISHMENT On Tuesday Oct. 28, TET Lifestyle Collection is holding a ‘Day of Nourishment’ at their private organic farm, Fragrant Path Green Tea Nature Gardens, located only 45 minutes from Hanoi.

Leaving TET Décor Café at 9am and followed by a 45-minute drive into the nature of Dai Lai Lake, the programme consists of a 1.5 hour organic Vietnamese cooking class, and an organic feast for lunch set

in the 50-metre-long bamboo house.

After lunch participants will have the choice of restorative yoga, meditation, aromatherapy massage, trekking around the property or free time to read a book. Everyone will return to Hanoi at 4pm.

Limited to 30 people in total, bookings or enquiries should be sent to info@tet-lifestyle-collection.com.

TET Décor Café is at Villa 25, Area 1.3 Ha, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho

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OCT. WEDNESDAY

A DANCE OF VISUAL ART Visual artist Le Thanh Tung aka Crazy Monkey will be teaming up with American counterpart Eugene Kogan on Wednesday Oct. 29 at Manzi to create a showcase combining contemporary dance, visual art and music.

Bringing a unique visual

and aural experience to Hanoi, this will undoubtedly be the highlight event of the month at Manzi. So bookings are essential as space is limited.

To reserve your seats, please email manzihanoi@gmail.com. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. The show kicks off at 8pm

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hanoi

OCT. THURSDAY

#

ALL MONTH

LAFIDKI CAMA ATK are continuing their Thursday night electronica with French / Cambodian musician Lafidki on Thursday Oct. 30.

With his live sets evolving around abstract electronics, noise and sequenced multi-layered rhythms, playing live is always an experiment for Lafidki. His music choices are spontaneous, his decisions made through the energy of people and space around him.

Having performed around the world in cities as diverse as St Petersburg, Seoul and Bangkok, this is a rare chance to catch a unique musician at what he does best.

Entrance to the event is VND50,000 and doors are at 8pm.

CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

JOIN THE REPUBLIC Although only opened last month, Tay Ho’s latest watering hole, The Republic, is already upping the ante.

It all starts with Thursdays and Ladies’ Night on the second-floor terrace, with every table of ladies getting their first glass of sparkling on the house as well as a complimentary plate of finger food. Add to this a nightly DJ from Wednesday through to Sunday, 6pm to 10pm, and the party atmosphere

is already in full swing.

Weekend breakfasts are also getting a makeover every Saturday and Sunday throughout October. With a three-course, all-in menu costing VND300,000, add a freeflow of sparkling, rosé or white wine and pay just VND300,000 extra. Include some bubbles — in this case, Veuve Clicquot — and get 30 percent off the menu price for a bottle.

The Republic is at 7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi

PIKNIC ELECTRONIK

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HANOI COMRADES HALLOWEEN PARTY AT TIME CLUB

OCT. FRIDAY

A HAUNTED (BUT POSITIVE) MASS The monthly bike ride inspired by Critical Mass that has reached 300 cities worldwide continues this month on Friday Oct. 31 at 8pm.

Titled Positive Mass or Dap Cho Suong, the ride will pedal off in Hanoi at St. Joseph’s Cathedral on Nha Tho / Nha Chung. From there the cyclists will traverse the streets of the capital en masse. With the ride taking place on Halloween, this month is the opportunity to dress scary and deathly sharp, all in aid of frightening off those motorbikes, cars and trucks out there. Now wouldn’t that be something!

Everyone is welcome to join free of charge. Simply turn up at the allotted time and date. For further information go to thbc.vn

The only thing more enjoyable than chatting/ arguing/flirting with people online is chatting/ arguing/flirting with them in real life. Especially when you are both dressed in hilariously inappropriate costumes (we’re looking at you, sexy taxidermist).

This wish will come true for members of the Hanoi Comrades Facebook Community on Halloween when Time Club will be transformed into a den of ghoulish delights with live music by rock, punk and ska bands.

Throw on a mask and come meet the people you’ve been talking to on the Internet — if you’re nice, maybe somebody will buy you a drink... of blood. Or vodka. Or maybe even a Bloody Mary.

The haunting commences at 7pm. Entrance is VND100,000 and includes a free beer or soft drink.

Time Club is located at 6, 1/62 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Find them online at facebook.com/timeclubhanoi

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The chilled Sunday afternoons and hazy evenings of Piknic Electronik have now left their Softwater base, going further up the river to Eden Hanoi.

Expect coconuts, BBQ (veggie option available), beats with different DJs every Sunday and a general down to earth, party-on-the-grass kind of vibe. Entrance is free.

Eden Hanoi is at 264 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Piknic Electronik kicks off every Sunday throughout October at 6pm

OCTOBER MOVIES THBC Spanish Tapas Bar (44 Lane 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho) is continuing their season of movies celebrating Spanish culture every Sunday throughout October.

With all films shown in Spanish and accompanied by English subtitles, entrance is free and even if you are not sure about the films you can still indulge in the finer arts of Spanish food and drink.

The month kicks off on Sunday Oct. 5 with Eva. On Sunday Oct. 12 the movie Fados will be screened followed by Todas las Canciones Hablan de mi on Oct. 19. The month climaxes with Los Lunes al Sol on Sunday Oct. 26.

All movies start at 7.30pm so

head down for a relaxing and intellectually minded end to the week.

THE GRAPHIC ART OF BENJAMIN BADOCK Living and working as ‘Artist in Residence’ in Hanoi from September to November, the Leipzig-based graphic artist will launch his exhibition at the Goethe Institut, that’s new — what’s next with a talk on Friday Oct. 10. The exhibition will run until Nov. 2.

One of the most important younger generation of graphic artists in Germany, Badock is renowned for his large-format coloured prints, using readymade printing elements in their production, similar to a child’s construction kit, developing one new image after another

from basic geometric shapes.

His current works are prints on newsprint that emerge via a long and almost painterly process of folds and partial contact with the unprocessed printing plate.

Sponsored by the Cultural Foundation of Saxony for Vietnam, as part of his period of residence, Badock will also host a number of workshops at the Goethe Institut.

The exhibition will be shown daily until Nov. 2 from 9am to 7pm. The Goethe Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. For more information go to goethe.de

Once reserved exclusively for royalty, tranquil Westlake now boasts Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences.

Minutes from the city with unobstructed lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers you the award-winning service even ancient kings would envy.

JAPANESE FILM FESTIVAL The Japan Foundation Center for Cultural Exchange in Vietnam will be running their annual film festival from Oct. 10 to Nov. 16 in Hanoi, Danang and Vung Tau. Entitled PASSION 2014 and with all screenings free of charge, this is one of the Japan Foundation’s most anticipated yearly events.

This year’s festival focuses on Japanese films with the theme ‘passion’. Eight movies will be shown, all demonstrating a different type of passion. The festival’s opener is ROBO-G (directed by Shinobu Yaguchi / 2012). Other movies include One Million Yen Girl, Bushido Sixteen and Tomorrow’s Joe. All movies will be screened with both English and Vietnamese subtitles.

For tickets please go to the Japan

Foundation, 27 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem. Each person can get a maximum of four tickets. The Hanoi screenings will take place at the National Cinema Centre, 87 Lang Ha, Ba Dinh. For the full screening schedule and more information, click on jpf.org.vn

THE FRASER COLLECTION BAHRAIN • BANGALORE • BANGKOK • BEIJING • BUDAPEST • CHENGDU • DOHA • DUBAI • EDINBURGH • GLASGOW • GUANGZHOU • GURGAON • HANOI • HO CHI MINH CITY • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL • JAKARTA • KUALA LUMPUR • LONDON • MANILA • MELBOURNE • NANJING • NEW DELHI • OSAKA • PARIS • PERTH • SEOUL • SHANGHAI • SHENZHEN • SINGAPORE • SUZHOU • SYDNEY • TIANJIN • WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) • FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014)

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just in

hanoi

THE REPUBLIC terraces, the second-floor area with views over the lake.

Themed as an upmarket gastropub with a menu focused on upscale comfort food, The Republic has five TV screens inside and one outside for watching the live sports.

They also serve up daily promotions that mix in drink and food.

The Republic is at 7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi or online at republic.vn

Photos by Nick Ross

Fronted by Chris Vella, the former northern food and beverage manager for the Al Frescos Group, The Republic is the latest watering hole to open up on the Tay Ho bar and restaurant strip between The Warehouse and Don’s.

Set in a French colonial-style building, the venue boasts a whitewashed interior, brown wood and grey paneling, cast iron detailing in the windows and art deco-style floor tiling.

With an indoor aircon, no smoking space, upstairs and out front are two open-air

NEW VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE SCHOOL IN HANOI THE HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE The recently updated Hanoi Holistic Health Guide is now available online. Containing a comprehensive listing of holistic and wellness practitioners in the capital, it is an indispensible resource for those looking to optimise their physical, mental and spiritual health.

A free download of the guide is available at issuu.com/ hanoiholistichealth

What started almost two years ago with private language teaching has now ended up as a full-blown language school.

Let’s Speak Vietnamese or LSV is the first privately run Vietnamese language school in Hanoi dedicated to a more than worthy cause — helping us, you, to speak the lingo. And speak it well.

The work of fluent Vietnamese speaker, Valentine, and his business partner, Hanh, the pair have written their own

MEDITATION IN TAY HO For anyone interested in using mind over chaotic Hanoi matter, then the recently establish Oneness Meditation Group at KI Studio (112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho) may just be the answer.

Meeting every Thursday from 10.30am to 12pm, the group practices relaxation meditation, ancient chakra meditation, a forgiveness process, setting intentions and the receiving of the Oneness Blessing. Intended to help

you find a balance in your life and quiet the chatter in your mind, other benefits include ridding yourself of stress and experiencing a deep state of peace and joy.

With a donation of VND100,000 per session — the proceeds go to Blue Dragon — all are welcome to join. Simply turn up on the day or go to facebook. com/onenesshanoi. Alternatively email Clotilde on clotilde. angelucci@gmail.com for more information

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curriculums and books. Located on the edge of the Old Quarter, their new centre has been built not with just an educational intention but also with a more social function in mind. While there are two classrooms upstairs, the first floor is devoted to a café. Says Valentine, “The purpose of the cafe is to make the students feel comfortable — coming a bit earlier to review and ask about anything that they don’t fully understand, or socialise with the other students,

make new friends, have some coffee, shakes, juices.”

With group classes costing from just over VND50,000 an hour per person, and with an express intention to take out the boredom of learning the language — traditional teaching tends to be very straight-laced — now you no longer have an excuse not to learn Vietnamese.

LSV is at 24 Nguyen Khac Nhu, Ba Dinh. For more information call 0904 365 748 or email lsv.hanoi@ gmail.com

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 47

overscene hanoi

Wedding Fair at JW Marriott

Photos provided by JW Marriott The silly season, also known as the time of year everyone gets married, is a-coming. So are the wedding fairs.

queer forever

Photos by Julie Vola A snapshot party with guest, artist VeronikaRadulovic, came to Manzi to commemorate a special event 15 years ago at Press Club - the first drag queen and drag king party in Hanoi.

Radulovic took photos of the original event.

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Hanoi Social Club

Photos by Teresa Wealleans James Blunt? Neil Finn? Australian singer / songwriter David Christopher delighted the audience at Hanoi Social Club with a night of tunes from his new album, Apartment.

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

The Warehouse Turns One Photos by David Harris Well, not exactly. They’ve been around for years, these guys. But the wine shop on XuanDieu is a newbie. And in its first 12 months it’s had a real impact on Tay Ho.

Open mic night

Photos by Teresa Wealleans Hanoi Rock City once again saw the open mic-ers hit the stage. It’s an institution, this one. A worthy one, too.

Not So Ordinary

Photos by David Harris After much build-up, Italian artist Barbara Pellizzarifinally opened her exhibition, Attimi— Images of the Ordinary at Casa Italia

briefings BRIEFINGS

NATIONAL

This is the Month that Was From Bendgate to VietJetAir marketing photos all the way through to Hanoi’s Old Quarter, September was a month to remember

I

f ever there’s news in Vietnam that’s worth a hundred articles and thousands of posts on social media, it’s the yearly rush for the new iPhone. Launched in both Hong Kong and Singapore on Sep. 19, within 24 hours these models of public indecency were appearing in Vietnam.

With the 128GB version of the iPhone 6 in 5.5-inch format initially selling for VND70 million a go, and the half-witted 64GB 5.5-inch option weighing in at a respectable VND50 million, trendsetters and sheep went crazy for Apple’s latest marketing stunt, buying up every hand-carried handset that they could get their grubby fingers on.

Unfortunately, within hours the skinny jeans brigade found themselves hell bent against their newfound boy toy. Placing the desirable handsets in their trouser pockets, on retrieving them they discovered their beloved iPhones had bent out of shape.

Labelled ‘Bendgate’ by our furry friends in the western press, who are always looking for controversial names that end with the word ‘gate’, the uproar that followed was, well, an uproar. Not surprisingly, those early buyers of the iPhone 6 found themselves licking their wounds. Within days the prices of the hand-carried sets had already plummeted.

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How Low Can You Go? Fortunately VietJetAir did anything but plummet last month, their recent aborted attempt to land at Dalat’s Lien Khuong Airport (they ended up in Cam Ranh) long forgotten. Instead, they started a new promotional campaign that was innocently leaked on social media. Getting together their hostesses and any other model with enough balls to dress up in bikinis, they photoshot their scantily clad ladies both on and off their aircraft — just what you want in an emergency.

Put on those life jackets? No. Let’s get out hostesses to pose in their bikinis. If we’re

going to die, let’s at least die with a smile on our face.

Having discovered that sex has the potential to sell, the budget airline has also now noticed that it can go viral, too. In a digital fashion, that is — no STDs here, thank you very much. Although the whole of Vietnam’s social media channels got a laugh out of this one, let’s hope that’s all they caught.

Bagged!

Equally viral, especially in Ho Chi Minh City, is a growing plague called plastic bag syndrome. An epidemic common to the whole of Vietnam but particularly resistant to treatment in the country’s (second) largest city, the metropolis’s Environment Protection Fund have discovered that Saigon consumes around 9 million plastic bags a day — equivalent to 50 to 70 tonnes.

These shocking figures are pushing plastic bag producers into urgent action.

Encouraged by their friends in The Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment, there are now an astonishing 17 companies in Vietnam producing environmentallyfriendly, biodegradable bags. Now all they need is a market. A tough one, that one.

The first problem is price — biodegradable

Best Leaving Sale Advert vietnam.craigslist.org/fuo/4680972794.html MOST AMAZING BED EVER!!! - ₫8000000 (DISTRICT 7) Seriously! This bed is amazing!

Best night of sleep YOU WILL EVER GET! bags are just that much more expensive than their synthetic plastic equivalents. They also have other shortcomings like limited designs, sizes and varieties.

Which all means that despite urging and talking about change, the epidemic is set to grow worse. Fortunately, there is a plan. A big, as-of-yet unimplemented plan. By 2020, they’re aiming to reduce the use of plastic bags by 60 percent compared to 2010 at supermarkets and trade centres, and by 50 percent at traditional markets. Until then the virus will continue to spread. Time to take cover.

Tobacco and Street Food Taking cover is something also recommended for this country’s 15.3 million ‘active’ smokers, especially after last month’s proposal to raise tobacco tax. Now due to rise from 65 percent to 70 percent in January 2016 and 75 percent in 2019, such devastating increments will hopefully stop smokers from doing what they love most, smoking.

But as health campaigners have pointed

out, only about VND600 will go onto the cost of a packet of cigarettes with each tax increase.

Which begs the question, why bother?

Exactly the same question was raised when Hanoi’s Old Quarter decided last month to create another food street. Not satisfied with 24-hour Tong Duy Tan, the present street designated the title, ‘Food Street’, the powers that be have decided they need to model their new street food destination based on the popular restaurant, Quan An Ngon.

By creating the same concept — a collection of street food stalls in the Old Quarter — it is hoped that Hanoi’s reputation as one of the world’s top 10 street food destinations will be enhanced.

Why tourists and locals can’t just go to all the other street food joints in the capital has yet to be answered. Finding gastronomic gems down small alleyways and in unpresuming back streets is all part of the fun, not that our friends up in The Castle would know that.

I bought the bed for some friends that moved here to Vietnam. They ended up leaving after only three weeks because they were weak and couldn’t handle the expat life.

The mattress: soft like those pushovers who couldn’t handle life in Vietnam, yet firm like a freshly picked ginger root; you will sleep like a comatose patient. NOT JOKING!!!!!!!!

The frame: “inlaid” WOOD!!! (pun totally intended) A college rugby team could drink Ayahuasca tea on this frame and their fragile minds would break long before this frame would EVER even make so much as a creak.

You are not weak. You can handle the expat life. You are strong and you need a strong bed.

Here is where I can help. Where I can help YOU! I am selling this bed/frame for the ROCKING low price of 8,000,000 VND. But... Only if you are a HARDENED, and, REAL expat. No sissies. Full stop.

You have to have lived in Vietnam for more than a year to be eligible. Seriously. NO. NOOBS! Order today and I’ll give you a snickers bar with your purchase! If you sound like a stand-up human, I’ll throw that snickers bar in the freezer first. You know you like frozen snickers bars. It’s hot. You deserve it.

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Insider

MANY FACES // DON’T GO CHASING CORACLES // CO LOA // THE CITIES // HOWLING FOR HALLOWEEN // SAIGON VINYL QUEST // THE SECONDHAND FURNITURE SHOP // THE STRIP // THE GREAT HANOI STARBUCKS EXPERIMENT // MYSTERY DINER HANOI // STREET SNACKER HANOI // MYSTERY DINER HCMC // FASHION // THE PEOPLE OF MYANMAR // FORMULA ONE // CU CHI THE HARD WAY PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY

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insider The woman behind Saigon Chamber Music, Tran Nguyet Sa is trying to create an environment that allows young Vietnamese classical musicians the opportunity to thrive.

Photo by Kyle Phanroy

O

ver the last decade classical music in Vietnam has been making unprecedented strides. The Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra is now touring extensively to Asia, Europe, and even the US. The HCMC Ballet Symphony Orchestra and Opera is starting to stage large-scale productions and the conservatory and music academies are emerging as important music venues. Yet for young musicians to develop and get the chance to play music rather than spend their time just studying it, and to immerse themselves in a supportive environment that aids their development, they have to travel overseas.

This is something that musician and former broadcast journalist, Tran Nguyet Sa, is trying to change. Hanoi-born, Saigon-raised, last summer her project Saigon Chamber Music came to fruition. Bringing together 19 young musicians from around the country, over one week in early August the virtuosos studied with a faculty of three international musicians — Tra Bich Nguyen, Zoe Martlew and Atle Sponberg — attended lectures, master classes and talks, and finished off with a public performance at the Ho Chi Minh City Conservatory of Music.

“The first edition of Saigon Chamber Music exceeded all expectations,” says Sa. “The young musicians were extremely committed. They improved every day, and never wasted any learning opportunity. Coming out from the intensive week, most of [them] had a better awareness of themselves and their music in a larger context of ensemble playing. Their sound changed beautifully just after a couple of sessions.”

Now, together with Arts for Mobility, Sa is upping the ante. On Oct. 25, the same virtuosos who attended the first edition of Saigon Chamber Music will play at Ho Chi Minh City Opera House. Not only does this provide an unrivalled setting for these musicians to perform in, but in doing so they will be helping raise much needed funds for Kids First. Based in Dong Ha in Quang Tri, among other activities Kids First distributes wheelchairs to individuals who, through the use of a wheelchair, will provide sustainability for themselves and their families.

Building a Dream Having both worked and studied extensively overseas — at one point she was a journalist for the BBC World Service in London — Sa first got her idea for starting Saigon Chamber Music in 2008 after finishing a course in arts management at the Kennedy Center for Performing Arts in the US. Feeling “renergised and inspired to do things differently” she visited Yellow Barn Music Festival in Vermont and Kneisel Hall Music Festival in Maine.

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“Both Yellow Barn and Kneisel Hall have lovely campuses situated in… woodlands, and the musical environment they build for the participants is stunning,” she recalls. “Classes and rehearsals in the day, concerts in the evening, community outreach activities, music talks and master classes. It all feels natural and fun. Everyone comes to live music for five weeks and it would not be hard to imagine their musicality leap forward after such an experience.”

While recreating such an environment in modern-day Vietnam is still a distant dream, the first edition of Saigon Chamber Music was an important step in the right direction. Yet it wasn't without its challenges.

Approaching Vietnam’s music academies, “the first and biggest challenge was to reach out to the young musicians and get them excited about what Saigon Chamber Music can bring to them,” explains Sa, fully aware of how new this concept was and still is to Vietnam. “And that led to the second challenge of not scaring them away from the commitment to a full schedule. It was summer time, and we asked them to be in school from 8.30am until 5.30pm or even 6pm, every day for a whole week.”

Through all of this, and through the application and audition process, the questions that Sa and her team constantly kept in mind were “how do we help the young musicians?

How do we make this a winning experience for them?”

“As we were doing this for the first time in Vietnam, we certainly wanted to send out a message of encouragement rather than judgement.”

By all accounts, the concert on Aug. 8 was a phenomenal success with all 19 musicians proving themselves adept on the big stage.

Most importantly was the improvement they all demonstrated from their week of mentoring.

Sa hopes to build on the programme’s initial success.

“My short term goal for Saigon Chamber Music is to grow it as an annual event in the conservatory’s calendar,” she says. “And in the long term I hope it will become a summer rendez-vouz for young musicians in Vietnam and the region.”

She adds: “In a country of over 90 million, there is room for development. I would love to see more sense of connection between the public and the arts.”

The Arts for Mobility concert in aid of Kids First will take place at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House on Saturday Oct. 25. With refreshments and a silent auction starting at 6pm, the performance will run from 7.30pm to 10pm. Tickets are VND500,000 (VND250,000 for students) and can be purchased through ticketbox.vn. For more information go to artsformobility.com

“For young musicians to develop and get the chance to play music, and to immerse themselves in a supportive environment that aids their development, they have to travel overseas. This is something that…

Tran Nguyet Sa is trying to change”

MANY FACES

HCMC

Tran Nguyet Sa

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insider

INSIDER

DANANG

Don’t Go Chasing Coracles In Danang, Phong Lan meets one elderly fisherman still making coracles the traditional way — with bamboo and an old technique. Photos by Khanh Hong

A

lthough small bamboo fishing coracles are being replaced by modern motorboats or coracles made from plastic, one elderly fisherman in central Danang is still making them with a special love and a hope that they will be loved by others.

The man is Phan Liem, a 70-year-old from Tho Quang Village in Son Tra Peninsula, who has been making coracles for nearly 60 years.

Liem recalls his first days learning the craft at the age of 14. “It was not easy work at all for a young man with no experience,” he says. “In the first days, I just tried to whittle the bamboo strips and take on other simple preparatory works.”

To have a strong boat, the artisans in Liem’s village choose good bamboo aged at least two years from the local mountains.

A small coracle — 1.4m in diameter — will need some 10 pieces of bamboo. An average one is normally 2m to 2.5m in diameter, while a big one is 6m in diameter. The preparation often takes a lot of time.

Learning the Craft “Artisans need to have both skills and strength to make the coracles round and strong,” Liem says. “I still remember my father’s sweaty hands when fastening the bamboo strips.”

One of the most important steps — a secret of local coracle makers — is to fill in the gaps with cow manure. The dung is mixed with water and then used to fill in holes on the coracle. The final step is painting the whole coracle with a special oil and drying it in the sun.

For many years, coracles floating near My Khe Beach have been a graceful sight. They are seen as good symbols of the mountain

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and the sea, the bamboo prevailing over the strong waves.

Yet these days they are only used for offshore fishing or as dinghies on larger ships. “We used to be a busy coraclemaking village 50 years ago, with some five workshops which employed nearly 100 artisans,” Liem recalls. “But now the trade is losing its popularity as more fishermen are opting for modern boats made from more durable materials.”

Now there are only two families following the trade — including Liem’s family, which has three generations working in the family workshop.

Liem’s son, Phan Van Minh, says that although their income has fallen considerably, he and his 15-year-old son still love the family’s trade and want to continue it. He says, “We’ll continue our craft until nobody uses coracles.”

The Dream Goes Abroad Fortunately coracles are being used more and more for tourism, when visitors to Danang want to experience the sea at night.

“We feel very happy when tourists from Australia, Japan and The Philippines show their love for our traditional coracles, and want to bring them to their countries,” Liem says.

Last year, a group of VietnameseAustralian visitors decided to buy 10 small coracles and bring them back to Australia. “They said they wanted to create ‘a Vietnamese corner in Australia, so that overseas Vietnamese there can see a familiar image of their motherland.”

After that, Liem started to receive more orders, coming from The Philippines, Japan,

France and England.

“Many foreign visitors have asked us to ship big coracles to their countries,” Liem says. “I have sent hundreds of coracles abroard. I never imagined that they would like our coracles that much.

“In these countries they have the most modern ships but they love our simple boats. I hope that one day our coracles can be seen floating on beautiful lakes and rivers in many foreign countries.”

“For many years, coracles floating near My Khe Beach have been a graceful sight. They are seen as good symbols of the mountain and the sea, the bamboo prevailing over the strong waves� wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 57

insider

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HISTORY

HANOI

Co Loa

Just 15km from Central Hanoi, a trip to the citadel of Co Loa reveals a forgotten story about Vietnam’s film industry. Words and photos by Nick Ross

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A

s a rule we don’t repeat articles. If we’ve already covered something, then unless there’s a different angle to be found, we leave the story as it is — covered, finished, caput.

That was what ran through my mind one Saturday morning as I drove the short dusty journey from Central Hanoi to Co Loa, a citadel founded by An Duong Vuong in 275 BCE after he defeated the Hung Kings.

Rather than travelling for a journalistic purpose I was on an excursion, looking to discover something different. It was a journey back into Vietnamese history, a well-needed day trip away from the heat and humidity of the capital. Unfortunately as I passed through Long Bien, crossed over Cau Duong Bridge and turned left towards Co Loa, the humidity refused to dissipate.

Instead it got mixed in with all the dust and debris left behind by the trucks, cars and motorbikes hurtling along Highway 3.

For a moment I considered turning back.

Land and Water Our previous article had talked extensively about the lack of citadel remnants at Co Loa. Yes, the outlines of the walls and former city ramparts still remain, and archaeological findings have revealed five major periods of construction at this site that was once the capital of Au Lac. But everything else has long been bitten by the dust of time.

Instead the focus was on the connections between myth, history and Vietnamese people. As our writer, Douglas Pyper, explained, “Within the walls is a town, but a town that is inseparable from the fields. Lakes and wells take on almost holy significance, and fields of rice or vegetables, each one thick with tombstones, come to within a foot of the benches where modern

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lovers sit to kiss. Scattered around are a number of revered temples and pagodas for princesses, kings and Buddha. Within each are the recurring motifs of tortoise, stork, egret, Buddhas, crossbows and kings which represent folk stories, myths, history, culture and religion intertwined.”

For me, just the pleasure of wandering through near-deserted temples and sitting by the lake was enough. Despite my previous onthe-journey misgivings and the relentless heat, being surrounded by both history and beauty was enough to make the trip worthwhile.

A Surprising Find As I made to leave, the area took on a new dimension. Interested to see if there was any more to Co Loa than meets the eye, I twisted and turned down some back streets and then a red-earthed path before ending up round the back of a deserted building. Although I’d noticed it before — it stands opposite the main entrance to the citadel — I’d identified it as one of those ugly, municipally-built buildings

that was the kind of place to avoid. I hadn’t noticed that it stood in ruin.

Driving into the grounds I got off my bike and started staring upwards. Surrounded by trees, the architecture seemed like a mishmash of styles — anything from Art Deco to French colonialism to something equating to modernism. It was both an eyesore yet attractive.

“Could it be a school?” I asked myself. It certainly had that look about it. Yet old schools in Vietnam tend to be functional, especially outside of the main city. This place had too many embellishments.

Inside I walked up the crumbling stairs, along open-air terraces and into empty rooms. Mould crept down the walls, era tiles lined the floors and a coat of dust had formed over every surface. The windows were glassless, and yet vegetation had yet to creep its way into the complex. The place was truly abandoned, not with the abandonment of decades, but years. It seemed it had only recently been in use. But what was it?

The Vietnamese Film Industry

Reclaiming the Past

A later online search revealed a surprising answer. Could it be Co Loa Studios?

Built in 1959, the studios were once the home of the Vietnamese film industry.

As the economy collapsed after the end of the American War, in 1980 the site was abandoned and fell into ruin.

With Hanoi’s 1,000-year anniversary celebrations coming up, in 2008 VND108 billion was invested into renovating both the building and the surrounding land. According to Vietnam News, the “plans [included] the construction of five more interior studios, 5ha of outdoor studios and a special water tank for shooting underwater scenes. The new outdoor areas [would be able] to pass for battlefields during wartime, streets in large contemporary cities, and some of Viet Nam’s jungle. It is hoped that by 2015 the studios will produce 30 celluloid films per year and that by 2030 Viet Nam will rank in the 30 top film producing countries in the world.”

Yet, without good support services, prop hire and set facilities, as well as high service fees, by 2013 the studio was already being described as a “wasteland”.

According to an article on the website, english.vietnamnet.vn, “Co Loa Studios was put in use in early 2012. It was expected to become Vietnam’s cinema capital.

However, now the facility is largely unable to find production companies willing to film there, and now faces the risk of becoming irrelevant. According to those in the industry this is a result of the lack of stable infrastructure at the studios.”

Another issue was location. Although only 15km out of Hanoi, the studios were just too far away.

No-one quite knows what to do with old abandoned buildings in Vietnam, especially if they are left stagnating in an area where land is not at a premium. Many have been knocked down, less have been restored, others have been repurposed.

The restoration of Co Loa Studios was a grand, well-intentioned project.

Unfortunately it failed.

Saving this country’s heritage, be it ancient or more recent, is vital to keeping hold of Vietnam’s soul. Yet sometimes there are buildings that have just run their course. Could this be one of them?

Getting There Take either Chuong Duong or Long Bien Bridges over the Red River and follow the road until you go over Cau Duong Bridge.

Turn left onto Highway 3 and follow the road 7km until you see signs for Co Loa.

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Cover Story

I

The Cities

Words by Hoa Le, Ed Weinberg and Nick Ross. Graphics by Vu Ha Kim Vy

t is a sentiment we hear all too often — Europe and North America are dying.

It’s not entirely true. But what is true is that the world’s wealth and power are shifting east. The beneficiaries? China, Japan, Korea, Singapore, India and of course Southeast Asia.

By 2015 the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) has the goal of creating regional economic integration. A streamlined and hopefully more workable version of the EU, the AEC will transform ASEAN into a region

with a free movement of goods, services, investment, skilled labour, and a freer flow of capital. How this will manifest itself is still unclear. But what is evident is that the countries of Southeast Asia are getting closer.

As a publication we’ve seen this first hand.

While many of our former staff have returned home, many others have moved onto bigger and better things around the region — Singapore, Hong Kong, Yangon and Bangkok.

They’ve learnt a key truth. No matter what your nationality, if you’ve got saleable skills,

once you’re set up in Southeast Asia this is your market.

As a testament to the growing regional movement of labour, over the next few pages we look at what it’s like to live and work in the 10 key cities in Southeast Asia. From Singapore to Hong Kong, Yangon to Manila, we’ve found people who’ve either got a connection with Vietnam or have lived in this region for years.

We hope you find their personal accounts make interesting reading. We certainly did.

Bangkok

Ho Chi Minh City

Phnom Penh

Hong Kong

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Singapore

Jakarta

Manila

Yangon

Kuala Lumpur

Hanoi

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Bangkok Le Nguyen 30s / Vietnamese / Reporter at the BBC

VND100.000 STATS Despite having a fairly high GDP per capita — VND121.4 million* — prices in both Thailand and Bangkok remain relatively on the low side. In Bangkok a Big Mac Meal costs a mere VND100,000 and the hourly rate for hiring a cleaner is also cheap at VND48,000. However, accommodation is more costly than in Vietnam — VND25.7 million a month or an 85sqm apartment in an expensive area.** *Provided by The World Bank **Provided by expatistan.com

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Time in Saigon: 30 years Time in Bangkok: 3.5 years “One day if I leave Bangkok, I will miss it a lot,” says Le Nguyen, a BBC reporter based in Bangkok. In 2011, he moved to Bangkok for the job. In this first go at living abroad, the city has treated him very well.

“People are so friendly. Housing is even cheaper than in Ho Chi Minh City, with more variety. You have endless choice of food, and it’s cheap as well,” he says, summing up all the things he likes best about this city.

But there are still things that frustrate the young journalist about his adoptive city life — one of it is traffic. “Road congestion is terrible,” he says. “It once took me about three hours to get home from work, something which normally only takes 30 minutes. There is also another time when I took the metro and I was stuck inside with tens of thousands of others. It was real chaos.”

As much fun as he has working for the BBC, the workload also hinders opportunities for Le to fully enjoy the city’s potential. His weekly schedule has him

working from Monday to Friday straight through, and sometimes on the weekend.

Despite his admiration for Thailand’s numerous recreational opportunities, well-developed showbiz and entertainment industry, Le has very little time to enjoy them. “I’m trying to strike a balance now,” Le says, “and start enjoying more music created by local artists. They’re really professional and talented.”

Just one hour away from Ho Chi Minh City, Bangkok doesn’t bring Le any ‘culture shock’ as it has many similarities with his hometown. According to Le, it’s because the lifestyle of people here is also deeply influenced by Buddhism and spiritualism.

Even so, Vietnamese food and traditional theatre music are the two things that he’s often missing from back home.

And if he had three things to change about Bangkok, what would they be? “Better traffic. A more stable political system. And perhaps better weather,” he says with a laugh. “Less rain on rainy days, and less heat in the summer.”

Tim Russell Mentally in his 20s, physically in his 40s / British / Married / Managing director for Remote Lands Time in Saigon: 10 years Time in Bangkok: 2 years

The Tour Operator

I work in the tourism industry — I’m Marketing director for Remote Lands, an ultra-luxury tour operator. I’ve lived overseas since the beginning of 2003, when I arrived in Vietnam. I came to Bangkok two years ago with my wife, the wonderful Linny, who is Vietnamese.

I’d been in Saigon for nearly 10 years and had really had my fill of it — in hindsight I probably stayed about four years too long. I found myself becoming the kind of moaning expat I’d always sworn I would never become. So when my current employer — who was a client of mine — offered me a job here, I thought about it for approximately 1.3 seconds and then accepted!

Life

The expat community is much bigger and more spread out than in Saigon — in Saigon you can walk into any bar and see people you know, but in Bangkok that’s not really the case. The locals are more polite than the Vietnamese but also more reserved and less interested in foreigners.

It’s easier to make local friends in Saigon than it is here.

Bangkok is definitely an eating-out city — there’s some amazing food here, especially on the

street, and in fact I’ve put on nearly 15kg since I moved here as a result.

Work

It’s a good city to work in. There are loads of networking events here, and I find I get more connections and job offers here than anywhere else I’ve ever lived. The fact that it is a regional tourism hub and one of the world’s most popular tourist cities is great when you work in the travel industry.

But the Vietnamese are much more hardworking than the Thais and they’re also a lot closer to their colleagues — socialising together, going to karaoke, eating together. That isn’t so common in Thailand.

The Vietnamese are also more willing to learn from and cooperate with expats than the Thais, who are more nationalistic. A friend of mine who has worked in both countries (for the same multinational company) once said to me, “In Vietnam, I always felt that my staff were on my side — I never felt that in Thailand.”

As far as actually getting things done, here it’s totally painless. Unlike Vietnam, where people seem to go out of their way to make life difficult for each other (and themselves in the process), Thais just want an easy life. Sanook!

STATS The general mood about the economy is not so great, though. 93 percent of Thais think their country is in a recession although roughly 1 in 2 Thais think the recession will end in the next 12 months.*** ***Provided by Nielson

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Ho Chi Minh Nguyen Thuy Linh 32 / Vietnamese / Married / Managing director’s assistant at Asia Golf Club

212 STATS

Expensive City Ranking (out of 230 cities): 212 Which means: Ho Chi Minh City is slightly more expensive than Chiang Mai (Thailand) and Colombo (Sri Lanka).

However, it is cheaper than Hanoi (Vietnam). Ho Chi Minh City’s cost of living is the cheapest of all the cities surveyed in this article.

Time in Hanoi: 25 years Time in Saigon: 7 years For many Vietnamese, it’s more common to move from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City rather than the other way round. Ho Chi Minh City offers more opportunities for work, with higher salaries. For that reason, Hanoi-born Nguyen Thuy Linh moved to the biggest city in Vietnam when she was 25. But she never thought that she would fall in love with the place, and end up never leaving it.

“It was a very difficult decision. I had no family, no friends in Saigon. And I had never lived away from home,” Linh says.

However, she found her colleagues — mostly from the city and neighbouring areas — very helpful. They made it easier for her to get settled down.

“It’s true that the salary is better in Ho Chi Minh City,” she says. “There are also more opportunities. But you need to have real talent and be qualified. It’s a harsher work environment than in Hanoi. You can get fired or replaced anytime if you are not qualified.”

Despite the cutthroat working

environment, Linh still prefers working and living in Saigon. And now even more so — she is married to a Saigonese man and is carrying her second baby.

“If you’re single, there are a lot more things for you to enjoy life here: a greater variety of shops, bars and places to hang out,” she says. “That’s what I enjoyed a lot before I got married.” Now that she has a son, it’s more difficult to find time to take advantage of such things.

While she’s adapted well to work and life in Ho Chi Minh City, Linh still refuses to adopt the southern accent. “I love my Hanoi voice,” she says. “And even after seven years, it’s still hard for me to understand my colleagues who are from the Mekong Delta.

They speak very fast, with a lot of local words.”

But does she miss Hanoi? For sure. In fact, sometimes it’s for the exact reason she left — the slower lifestyle, an easy walk around Hoan Kiem Lake. All the things that she can never find in Saigon.

Very late 30s / Irish / Married / Freelance writer Time in Hanoi: 12.5 years Time in Saigon: 2.5 years “When Gregory Samson woke up one morning from unsettling dreams, he found himself in a room he did not recognize.

Gregory, an expat living in Ho Chi Minh City for close to 10 years, first noted the ceiling fan and a spluttering AC. He could hear noises from the street. There was an intense heat in the air. He wasn’t used to any of this.

In his plush apartment, 30 floors above street level, he was always shielded from the heat and noise of downtown Saigon. He sat up in the bed. Where the hell was he? He glanced around the room. There was a rucksack leaning against a single chair; a bunch of clothes formed a disorderly pile on a small desk. Had he… slept with a backpacker staying in the Pham Ngu Lao area?”

— From Connla’s False starts from incomplete novels: The Metamorphosis (ExpatBackpacker Edit) Even in his fiction, Connla’s Saigon circumstances revolve around his living quarters.

“As in Hanoi,” he says, “I am an apartment dweller. I’m impressed by the quality of apartments in Ho Chi Minh City and they seem okay value.”

Unlike his fictional protagonist, he usually

avoids The Pham. “I arrived in Hanoi,” Connla says, “as a very young, single man, and came to Saigon as a married, family man in his late thirties.”

Food and diversity of experience are what have drawn him here — those and his wife. “My better half wanted to move a few times but I always resisted as I fear change. Eventually she just stopped asking and agreed to a transfer at work. I dutifully followed.”

As far as life in Saigon, there are frustrations — “the local referees’ shabby interpretation of the offside rule” — as well as benefits — “I benefit from the diversity of industry here... If I were freelance in Hanoi, my portfolio/experiences would probably be a lot narrower.”

But in the end, he doesn’t compare the two. “As someone who has now lived in both cities, I am always asked which is better and I hate the idea that we should trying to measure them up and somehow decide which one is best. It’s not a contest. Imagine how dull life would have to be if the cities were really similar.

“Having said that, um… I find the weather more bearable in Ho Chi Minh City, as the humidity in Hanoi is relentless.”

VND2,136,000

Connla Stokes

VND1,047,000

City

HCMC

Hanoi

STATS That Ho Chi Minh City is cheaper than Hanoi is due to the ‘sophisticated’ end of life rather than the basic necessities like food, accommodation and transport. Take a pair of Levi’s 501s or their equivalent.

In Hanoi they weigh in at VND2,136,000 a pair whereas in Ho Chi Minh City, they’re a pinch at just VND1,047,000.

Leather shoes are also more expensive up north — 62 percent more expensive.

As is gym membership and wine. In fact, anything deemed to be ‘luxury’ is just that little bit more costly in Vietnam’s capital.** **Provided by expatistan.com

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Phnom Penh Niamh McLoughlin

VND

21.3 million STATS National GDP per capita (2013): VND21.3 million Change in GDP per capita between 2010 and 2013: +28.74%* *Provided by The World Bank

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Late 20s / Irish / In a relationship / Teacher at an international kindergarten Time in Saigon: 1.5 years Time in Phnom Penh: 2 years

Circumstances

I moved to Vietnam in early 2011 with no particular length of stay in mind. I had just finished a master’s degree but had no immediate plans. My sister was already living in Saigon, working in an international school so it was an easy decision to go there for a while. I did general English teaching in Saigon at first, which I found easy to get into but the hours were not great and then I ended up running a bar for a while. I was there for over a year. It was fun and I loved it but the breakup of my relationship and a visit from my best friend prompted me to go to Phnom Penh for a while. A friend already living here offered me a room and I ended up staying.

Pros

In teaching anyway, I have found it is more likely for people to land full time positions in international schools (or schools that call themselves international).

I find that generally, local Khmer people living and working in the city speak a high level of English. I have found it much easier here to mix with local people and form closer bonds than I ever did in Vietnam.

But like other places, it is what you make of it.

Problems

On the surface, my workplace environment is a happy and friendly one, but below the surface there is a general sense of unfairness. Most of my colleagues are very unhappy with their working situation and with the corruption that exists at all levels in Cambodia, but they are also quite scared to speak out in fear of losing their jobs.

Seeing the injustices that Cambodian people suffer at the hands of the authorities makes me very angry but also serves to demonstrate the strength and determination of the Khmer people.

The people of Cambodia are the reason I love the country so much and have decided to make it my home. I hope to be here when change finally happens.

Etc.

I miss the variety of everything in Vietnam as opposed to Cambodia, the variety of people, food, music, art. I miss the live music scene in Saigon, there is definitely not the same excitement here. I miss the bia hois of Vietnam and the outdoor, plastic chair culture that encourages interaction between local people, travellers and expats.

Darren Gall 50s / Australian / Single / Wine specialist for The Warehouse Time in Hanoi: 6 months Time in Phnom Penh: 5 years

Circumstances

I was living in Thailand when my marriage fell apart. Moving to Phnom Penh was one of the hardest decisions I have ever had to make in my life.

Pros

I found the connection and the bond between expats in Cambodia to be very strong and made lifelong friends there. I would even say I found it stronger there than in other countries I have lived in.

Working in Cambodia was not a career move but a personal move, out of some necessity. In the end, I fell in love with the place, the people and the community, and rebuilt my life. I feel that I owe the country a heck of a lot actually, and I feel blessed to have found it and been lucky enough to have lived there, purely by chance.

On the business front, it is an emerging economy, growing and with enormous potential. It’s relatively easy to do business there and it can be very enjoyable to do business there.

Cons

Early on traffic was not an issue in terms of congestion, but was an issue in terms of safety — road rules are simply not understood or obeyed.

In more recent years congestion has also become a problem, and injuries and deaths on the road are a national crisis in Cambodia.

Business dispute resolution is patchy to nonexistent, and the rule of law is often inconsistent. Getting into business disputes can often lead to years of stalemates and ongoing conflicts, and a general black hole for your finances and company.

Moving On

I was left with a sour taste in my mouth after a business partner behaved dishonourably and stole money from me. I was then made a very attractive offer by The Warehouse, to work in the north and centre of Vietnam. Having visited and worked in Hanoi on and off for many years, I was very familiar and comfortable with the place and the people.

But I think Phnom Penh will always be the place I identify with as home, now and forever more.

STATS Expensive City Ranking (out of 230 cities): Not ranked Which means: Based on the answers of 142 respondents, Phnom Penh is slightly more expensive than Hanoi. Clothes are double the price of Ho Chi Minh City, while both food and transportation are 19% and 29% cheaper respectively.** **Provided by expatistan.com

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Hong Kong

9

TH

STATS

According to the Cost of Living Index**, Hong Kong is the ninth most expensive city in the world for expats and the second most expensive city in Southeast Asia. 6% cheaper than Singapore and 16% cheaper than London, an 85sqm, twobedroom apartment in an expensive area of the city costs VND112 million, six times more than the equivalent in Ho Chi Minh City. **Provided by expatistan.com

Donna Nguyen Phuoc 30s / Vietnamese / Single / Art gallery owner / Fashion label runner / Property remodeler / Partner in a headhunting firm Time in Hong Kong: 10 years I came to Hong Kong... for the Rugby Sevens, and then got a job offer to move here. It was an easy decision because I had been to Hong Kong many times previously and already had a lot of friends living here.

Hong Kong is a... ‘work hard, play hard’ kind of place. Everyone goes out, and the restaurants, bars and clubs are busy seven nights a week. People live in smaller spaces in general compared to Vietnam and other countries, so most of the time they eat out instead of at home.

There are too many... people! People everywhere, and this city doesn’t stop moving. So it drains a lot of energy out of you. In order to have a good balance, one needs to get out of Hong Kong often to recharge. The pollution is a serious concern.

There is very little… or no corruption.

Everything is straightforward. You are constantly challenged by smart and talented people, so you need to be on top of the game.

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Taxes are very low, and the government doesn’t try to suck your money like in some other countries. I started and set up a few different businesses in Hong Kong and it was always easy, no fuss, a simple process.

I don’t think I would be able to manage so many businesses at the same time if things around me didn’t work or weren’t as efficient as they are in Hong Kong.

Getting into a relationship is... easy.

Keeping a relationship is more challenging because of the fast lifestyle, and there are temptations everywhere you look.

Being a foreigner... you’re surrounded by expats from everywhere. People tend to be very friendly and receptive. Most locals working in a corporate office speak English, so no language issue there. There are cultural differences between expats and locals, but that’s everywhere.

I miss Vietnamese... food, and the charm of people.

David Stout Late 20s / American / Single / Journalist Time in Hong Kong: 1 year Time in Hanoi: 2.5 years Formerly a resident of Hanoi, US-born David Stout left an editorial position at Word Vietnam to work for a publication in Myanmar. It was around the time the country started opening up and was a step towards forwarding his career in the media.

Now a breaking news reporter for TIME in Hong Kong, this late 20-something journalist has made the city his home. It’s tough, but the rewards, it seems, are proving fruitful.

The Pros

“Public transportation in Hong Kong is on another level and makes similar services in other developed nations come across as wholly medieval. It’s cheap, timely and clean. Salaries are quite high and comparable or higher to jobs in western nations. People tend to log long hours in the office. Stress levels are high and workplaces are competitive, but Hong Kong is a model for efficiency, so getting things done in a timely manner is the status quo here.

“However, Hong Kong’s numerous hiking trails, beaches and nightlife options provide a much-needed pressure release outlet for all the overworked souls in the city. Before coming to Hong Kong I had no idea about the range of recreational outlets the city has to offer. The city is plush with beautiful beaches, hiking trails, camping sites and plenty of nightlife options. So getting out and having fun is quite easy as long as you’re personally motivated to do so or have a good group of active friends.”

The Cons

“Accommodation is horrendously expensive for the amount of space you’re offered. It’s definitely the biggest downside to living here. On occasion, people find good deals, but on the whole they

are few and far between. Living alone is nearly impossible unless you’re ready to spend big bucks, which leaves the option of living with a roommate or a significant other, or finding a shared apartment through a real estate agent.

“The other tough aspect of life in Hong Kong is dealing with the stress that comes with living in a city inundated with highly competitive professionals. Most folks are doing exceptional work under tight deadlines and getting paid well to do it. With that said, there’s also a very vain side to Hong Kong. One of the first things I noticed when moving here was that everyone seemed to be talking about money all the time.

During my tenure in Vietnam, money came up on occasion in conversation but never seemed to dominate exchanges in the same way it does here.

“On the whole working life in Vietnam is much more toned down. People actually go out for lunch, rather than just eating at their desk, and it always feels like there’s time for a coffee break with colleagues or maybe even a quick nap after lunch.”

I Miss

“… the street food, the dynamic nature of [Vietnam’s] cities, motorbiking through the countryside and the persistent energy that at times pushes the country seemingly towards anarchy. Also, I miss the relations that seem to naturally sprout up through everyday encounters across all walks of life in Hanoi. Whether with your xe om driver, bun cha lady or wait staff at your favorite café, there’s always time for a quick chat or sincere acknowledgement. This stands in stark contrast to life in Hong Kong, which at times feels very transactional.”

STATS Says market research giant Nielsen***, despite the ongoing recession, job prospects in this dynamic powerhouse are good to excellent — so say 54% of respondents. However, the economic outlook over the next year is not so good, with only 23% of those surveyed expecting things to improve. ***Provided by Nielson

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Singapore

3

RD

STATS

With a national GDP per capita of VND1.16 billion, Singapore is the third richest country in the world*. As of mid-2014, the country had 105,000 millionaires, not bad for an island with a total population of 5 million. Yet, when it comes to happiness, like most other developed countries, Singapore suffers — the island state is rated 88 out of 151.** *Provided by The World Bank **Provided by happyplanetindex.org

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Chu Nga

28 / Vietnamese / Single / Working in commodity trading Time in Hanoi: 20 years Time in Singapore: 8 years Why did you move to Singapore?

I was offered a full scholarship through the Singapore Ministry of Foreign Affairs to study business administration at the National University of Singapore.

Was it difficult to adapt to life here at the beginning?

I found it not too difficult, although there were a lot of overwhelmingly new things for me. Online forums such as the Vietnamese student community were very helpful to help me get settled down.

What do you like about working in Singapore?

Singapore has been a global financial hub and is becoming even more of one. Having the opportunity to work in Singapore for me is beneficial, worthwhile and interesting. It is a very international working environment: in a team you can expect to have people from all over the world.

What’s the balance like between work and play?

Generally Singapore is considered a high

stress society, but in my opinion it is not as stressful as Hong Kong or Tokyo.

Singapore’s working crowd has got healthier in recent years in my opinion; gym culture is getting more popular. I myself like to work out three to four times a week: I go to yoga during lunchtime, play tennis after work and play beach volleyball on the weekends.

What do you miss, if anything, about the lifestyle in Vietnam?

I miss the street food culture in Vietnam, where you can go with friends and do shop hopping. I love to go with my friends to eat nom bo kho, banh cuon, che, chao hen and kem Trang Tien all in one night.

If you could change something about Singapore, what would you change?

I wish Singapore had a larger land area.

I think the urban planning and city management are being done very well here, but I believe the government could have done a lot more if there was more land to play with.

I also wish Singapore had four seasons; I miss Hanoi in the winter.

Ian Paynton Late 20s / British / Super single / Publisher of regional magazines for Haymarket Media Group / Co-wner of creative agency We Create Time in Hanoi: 2.5 years

VND

200 000

Time in Singapore: 1.5 years

Circumstances

I moved here for a regional job role. It was extremely difficult because of one thing: my love for Vietnam and Hanoi. I didn’t want to leave.

But I realised the opportunity in Singapore and took the leap, which turned out to be valuable.

Pros

Singapore is unbelievably simple and ordered.

Everything works and is clean. I live in Little Vietnam — the opposite end of the city to my office — so it can take up to an hour on the MRT [Mass Rapid Transit, their 108-station rail network spanning the entire city-state], which is often packed but still pretty comfortable. Would still prefer my Honda Wave and a raincoat, though.

Salaries are on par with UK salaries. In terms of money and doing business deals, I can have US$200,000 conversations with clients in Singapore with no more effort or workload than it would take to have US$1,000 conversations in Vietnam. Basically, for the same time and effort, you can earn lots more money.

Compared to Vietnam, getting things done is unbelievably simple. It’s quite refreshing, really.

People speak their mind, are more upfront, and will let you know where you stand.

Cons

My first six months in Singapore was the toughest of my whole time in Asia. Actually I really disliked it. I found it harder to make good friends here, compared to in Hanoi.

There were seemingly more people ‘on my wavelength’ in Vietnam.

Yes, Singapore works: people are well behaved, safe and rich. But I can’t help but think it’s all at the expense of other things.

Like human rights, freedom of speech, freedom of the press. Unfortunately, in my opinion, it just doesn’t feel like real life. It feels like a bubble. Like The Truman Show, perhaps?

Compare/Contrast

I’m not sure you can compare. They are completely different ends of the spectrum.

In one — Vietnam — you seem to have lawlessness, flexibility and chaos, which is reflected in the workplace, too. And in the other — Singapore — you have too many rules, too much order and inflexibility. I’d say there are issues with professionalism (to a western standard, anyway) in both countries, but Singapore does seem much more ‘advanced’ and ‘developed’ — whatever those words actually mean.

STATS Singapore's wealth and extravagance have a downfall — the cost of living, especially if you’re an expat. The average cost to rent an 85sqm apartment in an expensive area is VND84.7 million per month. Fortunately food remains cheap.

Hawker courts still routinely serve up dishes for VND68,000 to VND85,000 a go.

And even the more pricey restaurants are relatively inexpensive. Just don’t go for the beer — here you’re routinely paying over VND200,000 for a half pint.

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Jakarta Eammon Sadler 50s / British / Divorced / Entrepreneur Time in Jakarta: 23 years

Melbourne Jakarta

When I arrived in Jakarta… I was a backpacker. I liked it and stayed. It was the Suharto era and it was a very different place. It was hard not to make money.

20 years ago… expats were relatively well-off, but now the standard of living is much lower, but still better than the UK for example

STATS The largest city in Southeast Asia, despite its regional importance Jakarta remains relatively cheap for expats. 182nd on the Expat Cost of Living Index*, life here is marginally cheaper than Bangkok and 21% more costly than in Hanoi.

To put this in a wider perspective, living in Jakarta is exactly half the cost of living in Melbourne. *Provided by expatistan.com

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As an entrepreneur… I am always working, but I enjoy what I do so I don’t really view it as work. Some people climb mountains as an enjoyable challenge. Some play team sports. I create businesses.

The expats I know here are… a close group of friends of all nationalities. Even after 23 years I have no close Indonesian friends. I speak the language but the culture is more of a challenge.

It’s easy to… get your house cleaned or your car serviced, but if it’s something important better to do it yourself. But that’s true everywhere in my experience.

The hardest part is… finding good, conscientious, hard-working local people.

When you have found them and trained them, it’s even harder to keep them. The main benefit of living in Jakarta is that there are more opportunities for ordinary expats to do well in their own business. I do far more things here than I could do in the UK. Being an expat brings an automatic credibility, for some reason, and gives foreigners a head start. If you can keep that credibility and earn a good reputation you can do well here.

I live in a… four-bedroom house in south Jakarta with my two kids, a maid and a driver. There are still good deals if you know where to look. Most people imagine I pay double what I actually pay for my house.

If I could change three things about Jakarta they would be… 1) The traffic — it’s so bad that it takes all the spontaneity out of life. I ride a motorbike. 2) The environment. There are very few green areas and those that exist are very poorly kept. 3) The drainage. Every time it rains the streets flood in ten minutes and the traffic gets even worse.

Paul Kanwar Mid-40s / British / Married / Sales and marketing director for a healthcare company Time in Jakarta: 10 years How long have you lived overseas?

Been overseas since just after birth in Kent, until 16. Left again in 1997. I’m a thirdculture kid.

Why did you move to Jakarta?

I was transferred here from a previous posting in Saigon. It was an easy decision to move here as I used to live here in 1997/1998 — when the city was in flames and people were getting shot. Then I came out as an expat from London, sight unseen. Anything was better than that dangerous era.

What are the drawbacks about life there?

The quick journey times make Saigon feel like a provincial town compared to the daily traffic nightmare that everyone experiences in Jakarta. Traffic jams and the lack of modern public transport are the biggest downside of living in this city. Now that more cars are being sold in Indonesia, you only have to imagine what Bangkok would be like without the Skytrain or underground.

The city of Jakarta has a population of around 10 or 11 million. This rises to 13 million on a workday. Greater Jakarta has a population of over 30 million, making it the second largest conurbation in the world after Greater Tokyo.

What’s great about Jakarta?

Jakarta feels like a world capital. Singapore (an 85-minute flight) is the regional hub for many firms and sets the standard for jurisprudence and efficient government.

Jakarta is the complete opposite, yet attracts greater commercial and investment interest. There’s always an opportunity, there’s always a new visitor in town. It’s an incredibly dynamic city — commercially, politically and internationally. I feel like Saigon is a sleepy provincial town in comparison.

And there are incredible business opportunities in every possible sector.

Jakarta is the capital city of the world’s largest Muslim country — yet it’s secular — the fourth largest democracy in the world, headquarters for the ASEAN secretariat and the largest city in Southeast Asia. Indonesia is the only Southeast Asian member of the G20. Australia’s largest embassy in the world is under construction here. I mean, even Morrissey played here in 2012.

What do you miss most about Saigon?

The incredible friends that you make in Saigon. Never experienced anything like it anywhere else in the world.

VND

630 000

STATS When it comes to the not-so-fine things of life, Jakarta has its downfalls. A bottle of good table wine averages out VND630,000 a go, while supermarketpurchased beer costs VND44,000 per half litre bottle. Fortunately, clothing is cheap — about the half the price of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City — as is gym membership. To keep yourself in trim, expect to pay an average monthly fee of VND924,000.

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Manila VND 30 Nguyen Ba Hung

Mid-30s / Vietnamese / Married / Works in regional public service Time in Hanoi: About 30 years Time in Manila: 6 years

million STATS Manila is 2.7% more expensive than Bangkok and roughly half as expensive as Shanghai. The cost of living in Ho Chi Minh City is a third cheaper than it is in Manila. The big difference between Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Manila is housing — an average 85sqm apartment in an expensive area costs VND30 million.* *The Cost of Living Index, Expatistan.com

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Nguyen Ba Hung moved to Manila six years ago when he started working for a new agency, one whose headquarters are based in this metropolitan city. For him, life in The Philippines is not a challenge — at times he even feels he’s treated more favourably by locals because he’s an expat. But there are a few things that he misses about living in Vietnam, and street-style coffee shops are one of them.

Working in Manila

It’s quite intense and I often find myself super busy. But the rich resources of the institution where I work makes it relatively easy to get things done. As for salary, it’s difficult to compare it with Vietnam, if you’re thinking about packages and benefits all together. But with my salary here, I can afford a comfortable lifestyle.

Numberwise, though, monthly expenses are about two-thirds of salary, so it’s not that great from a savings point of view.

The Social Side of Things

Recreational opportunities here are quite diverse, depending on how much you’re willing to spend.

Sport and leisure travel is convenient. Bars and restaurants are everywhere, but the price range is high. Compared to Vietnam, I think they’re more

available, in a greater variety. Eating out is also easy because there are a lot of choices, although many are fast food and not healthy. I still prefer home dining.

Pros

One of the main benefits of working and living in Manila is the wide usage of English by local people (inside and outside the office), and the network of global professionals. My working environment is very international, with people coming from many different countries and cultures, so generally everyone deals with cultural differences both at work and outside of work pretty well.

Cons

The worst thing about working in Manila is traffic and travel hassles, especially when you have to fly regularly for work. Accommodation is also quite expensive, considering quality and convenience.

What I Miss About Vietnam

Boutique coffee shops. Also, the efficiency of getting things done — in Manila it takes ages for someone come and fix things for your house, but I found it very easy in Vietnam. And then of course I miss my family and friends.

Robert Wyld Mid-50s / British / In a Relationship / President & CEO of Manulife Chinabank Life Assurance Corporation Time in Manila: 2.5 years

I moved to Manila… because I was offered the opportunity to run the only joint venture my organisation has in Asia. It was an opportunity that was too good to miss, so it was an easy decision.

Communication… is very easy in The Philippines as the majority of the locals I come into contact with speak very good English. But sometimes locals find my English accent difficult to follow.

Salary levels in The Philippines… would be higher than Vietnam. I am British so my salary level is much higher than that of Filipinos.

I have had a tremendous opportunity to… travel around the country and see many of its hidden treasures. I’ve met some great people, from bank tellers to insurance commissioners.

I am surprised at… the cost of apartment rentals in both Manila and Saigon. Both cities have high rentals costs comparable with certain parts of London. I guess that is all to do with supply and demand, with demand outstripping supply in these developing cities.

I've never quite cracked… the balance between work and play. As an expat it is important you can demonstrate your worth to earn the respect of the people. So I tend to work longer hours in Asia than I did in London. Having said that, I always find time to enjoy a few drinks in one of the bars situated in the vibrant Greenbelt area of Makati City, or play a game of golf with a few friends on one of the local golf courses.

Saigon… is probably a little like Manila was 20 years ago. I love the quirkiness of the place with its pulsating street life, eateries, bars, culture and French architecture. I like the intimacy of District 1 — when I used to walk around I would be guaranteed to bump into somebody I knew. Vietnam also has better restaurants and a greater variety of cuisine. Having said that, Manila is an easier place for an expat to work given the language advantage and the development of the market I work in.

I miss… a good bowl of pho after a night out, wandering around the art galleries and strolling around the streets soaking up the unique atmosphere of Saigon.

2

5 STATS

The Philippines is a pretty happy country, weighing in at 25 in the Happy Planet Index. This makes it less happy than Vietnam and Thailand, but in return, Filipinos are far more content than their counterparts in Myanmar.

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Yangon Jim Abril Late 20s / Filipino / Single / Creative Director for Mango Marketing (affilitated with JWT) Time Overseas (including Saigon): 14 years Time in Yangon: 4 years Moving to Ho Chi Minh City in his teens, after completing his degree in Manila, Jim returned to Vietnam to start off his career in graphic design. Working for Word as art director, he followed his parents to Yangon when they moved there in 2010. He was supposed to stay for 12 months. Four years later is he is still living in Myanmar’s largest city and is working with clients such as Unilever, Carlsberg and Telenor.

restaurants and bars are popping up. There are wide parks where you can eat some barbeque, watch local concerts and take nice photo walks. And on weekends you can meet new people, both expats and locals, in open-mic nights hosted by dedicated art galleries.

When I first visited… it was a little bit depressing at the time, knowing the political situation. But the people I met during that visit were kind, genuine and charismatic.

They had a very similar vibe to us Filipinos on how to get through difficult situations — we always find something we can laugh about.

Working with the local staff… is great because they like to snack a lot. Not so great when you’re trying to get something done fast and when you’re trying to avoid any sunflower seed shells on your laptop keyboard. A lot of the people I work with are modest and humble, but the Burmese aren’t usually confrontational, so it’s a little bit difficult to get to know how they really are or what they really think until you piss them off.

Despite the amount of crazy deadlines… I find that there are a lot of ways and places to unwind and get silly in Yangon. A lot of new

I find many people to be… complacent, more so older people. They’re just satisfied with what’s already there and are not

motivated to push for more and to craft or to be pro-active.

Patience… has become a requirement. With all the frustrations that goes about living in Yangon — power-cuts, traffic, phone signals, Internet speeds etc., you have to have patience.

From my time in Vietnam, I miss… driving a motorbike. The thing I miss the most is the food — bun cha, bo kho, banh xeo, hu tieu, banh mi, bap xao…

If I could change anything about Yangon, I would change… the weather. If it rains it pours, if it’s hot… IT GETS HOT. I also hate betel nut chewing — the red spit-stained walls and pavement. I wish I could drive a scooter in Yangon. It’d be fun zipping through traffic and getting to where I want to go on time. And of course power cuts and Myanmar politics.

Alex Falter 30s / British / Setting up a textiles factory in Yangon Time in Hanoi: 5 years Time travelling to Yangon: 18 months Based out of Hanoi and with a textiles factory in Bac Giang, Alex works for Vert, an arm of a Dutch fashion group. He is presently setting up “a manufacturing entity along with a garment trade school” in Yangon.

Why are you setting up another arm of your business in Yangon?

We feel that Myanmar, with a 55 million population, will be one of the last bastions of manufacturing in Asia. Elsewhere in Asia, wages are rising higher than productivity. We are working with the local garments associations and NGOs to ensure we can set a strong standard of Corporate Social Responsibiliy (CSR) from the outset.

What are transportation and commute times like to get to and from work and to get around the city?

Terrible! I stay near Inya Lake and during peak rush hour it will take me over an hour to reach The Strand. That’s just 12km. There are no motorbikes to jump on — they are illegal in central Yangon. There is little public transport either, just cheap, clapped out Toyota taxis.

What are the salary levels like in Yangon for locals and expats?

Myanmar salaries are very low for the mass populace — around VND2.6 million per month on the outskirts of Yangon. If you speak English and are Universityeducated, salaries can be anywhere from VND10.5 million to VND21 million a month for talented locals. But they are in high demand and usually have their own companies as their families had money to educate them. There are some extremely wealthy individuals in Yangon. Expats are generally better paid than in Hanoi.

What’s the balance like between work and play?

It largely depends on who you are, what you do, and who you do it with. I find the Burmese of Chinese descent more willing to go for drinks and there are some cracking restaurants. The ethnic Burmese tend to be more reserved and I have not had the chance to meet ethnic Indians.

How easy or difficult is it to get things done?

D-I-F-F-I-C-U-L-T. But in a country like Myanmar, it depends on your partners.

Communication with locals who speak English is very good, but turning a positive conversation into positive action is tedious.

What are the main frustrations of trying to set up a business in Yangon?

Productivity, a lack of clarity on policy and unclear laws. Yet the potential benefits of being here are untold.

What’s your accommodation like?

I stay in a hotel north of Inya Lake near some restaurants and bars. It’s the equivalent of VND1.7 million a night including breakfast.

It’s spotless, new and the staff are charming.

It also has good WiFi — a big problem in Yangon. My partner stays in a very nice threebed apartment on the outskirts of town. The cost is VND95 million a month. Roomy villas in downtown Yangon can fetch as much as VND420 million a month. House rental prices are utterly insane.

If there were three things you could change about Yangon, what would they be?

First, allow and encourage the use of electric bikes throughout the city. Second, I would force through urban redevelopment. There are huge state, army and national company compounds that use up valuable inner city space. And finally, MORE ATMs!

238 STATS

The data is yet to be complete on Yangon — so there are no GDP stats. However, the Myanmar capital scores a whopping 238 on the The Cost of Living Index*, making it the third most expensive city for expats in Southeast Asia, only 1.2% cheaper than San Francisco.

The reasons include the ridiculously high cost of accommodation — demand completely outstrips supply — clothing and non-Myanmar cuisine. Anything that is deemed luxury, is very luxury.

Conversely, a packet of Marlboro cigarettes only costs VND32,000. *www.expatistan.com

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Kuala Lumpur VND

221 million STATS Malaysia, and by default Kuala Lumpur, has a GDP per capita of VND221 million*.

Amazingly this isn’t reflected in the cost of living. An average 85sqm apartment in an expensive area is only 24% more costly than the equivalent accommodation in Ho Chi Minh City. Yet GDP per capita is over five times higher in Malaysia than it is in Vietnam. Food is also in a similar price range to Vietnam, while clothing and petrol are far cheaper.** The killer, however, is going out.

With the taxes applied to alcohol, it can be a very costly affair — expect to pay upwards of VND100,000 a beer. As for spirits, let’s not go there… *Provided by The World Bank **These stats are found on expatistan.com

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Dung Le 30s / Vietnamese / single / travel agent Time in Kuala Lumpur: 1.5 years The woman and face behind the Hanoi-based travel agency, Zoom Zoom Let’s Go to the Countryside, Dung Le has spent time overseas in both the US (Alaska) and more recently, Kuala Lumpur.

I moved to Kuala Lumpur because… I had a job offer working as a travel agent in KL. It was a very easy decision since I love travelling places, meeting people, experiencing other cultures and living in other countries.

The salary levels are… based on job title, skills, experience and education. Since I have a degree and I am a foreigner, when my company offered me a job, they had to make sure they were paying the salary that could cover my living expenses, housing and some savings. It was higher than that back home in Vietnam.

My salary… could cover everything. I had a comfortable life. I rented a nice apartment with a swimming pool and a nice gym. I could afford to go out, go shopping or dine out. I could travel to other cities, islands around Malaysia over the weekends or even travel to other countries like Singapore, Thailand, Indonesia and The Philippines.

I shared an apartment… with two other expats. Our apartment building had everything we could wish for and I had my own en-suite bedroom. It cost me about VND7.5 million a month.

KL has so much to offer… in terms of recreational opportunities. They have wonderful trails for hiking. There are lots of people passionate about hiking, trail running, cycling, rock climbing and diving.

I don’t know how others feel, but I thought it wasn’t that difficult to meet people. You can get into a relationship from meeting people who have the same interest as you.

I made so many hiking and travelling friends there. And now, although I’m back in Vietnam, we still remain friends.

They sometimes even organise trips to go travelling and hiking in Vietnam.

Malaysia… is a Muslim country, therefore, alcohol is very expensive.

Going out and having a beer at a bar in KL is as expensive as buying a beer in the US or some places in Europe.

However, Malaysians love food. I have a lot of Chinese-Malay friends — they are obsessed with food.

I moved back to Hanoi… for personal reasons. I loved living in KL because I liked my job. Most importantly, I was independent and I had so much freedom while living there. In my opinion, the working environment in KL is much more professional than in Vietnam.

I miss… my hiking friends and all the outdoors activities I love that kept me healthy and happy.

Jonathan Atherton 50s / Australian / married / stand-up comedian Time in Kuala Lumpur: 1.5 years Time living overseas: More than 25 years What do you do?

I am a stand-up comic and, such whores that we comics are, I will work for anyone who has the cash.

reasons as well. However, the rail system is undergoing a lot of expansion and I think things will be pretty cool in a few years, insh’allah.

Where have you lived in Southeast Asia prior to Kuala Lumpur?

I’ve lived and worked in Singapore, Bangkok, Koh Samui, Medan, Yangon, Tokyo, Mumbai, Nairobi and Kampala.

What are the salary levels like?

I charge the same fee here as in Singapore.

Yet my overheads are less than half.

Occasionally I hear expats complain that their packages aren’t as generous as in Singapore, but the lifestyle in KL is so much better — and cheaper — that it more than compensates.

Do you speak the local language? If yes, how fluent are you?

My Malay is getting pretty good. I performed my first full-length comedy show in Malay recently. I have been invited to tour Malaysia with a popular Malay comedy troupe. I said absolutely yes. Not sure if they are actually going to pay me and really don’t care. We will be doing 2,000 to 5,000-seater auditoriums. In the past I have performed in Indonesian, Thai, Luganda and German.

Why did you move to Kuala Lumpur?

It was an easy decision. I lived five years in Singapore so it feels a lot like parole moving to Malaysia. KL rocks. The people are friendly, savvy and a lot of fun.

What are transportation and commute times like?

Traffic here is a nightmare. I pity the nine-tofivers. Mind you, I pity them for many other

What’s the balance like between work and play?

I could never figure that one out. If you can make money doing what you love doing you have found the right formula. If not, you’re a slave.

What is communication like with other expats and locals?

I think expats get on well together. I see them in groups all the time. However, I was accused of being racist by an English acquaintance recently. He suggested that I didn’t have any white friends. That’s not true. My wife is white… sort of. A bit of Chinese, Indian, French and Malagasy — she’s from Reunion Island.

But to be honest, I don’t hang out with banking and finance, oil and gas or IT people

back in Australia, so why would I do that here?

How easy or difficult is it to get things done?

I guess it depends on what you want done.

If you need a mainframe computer built or a heart bypass it is probably relatively easy.

But try to find a plumber or electrician who can do a decent job? Impossible.

What are the main frustrations of working in Kuala Lumpur?

You need the right attitude to work anywhere in Asia. Frustration is not an option. If slap-dash methodology and shoddy workmanship really bug you, move to Germany. Asia has a bright future. Europe is in its death throes. This is where it’s at.

If something is lacking here that we have in the West, it’s the perfect opportunity to introduce it and enjoy a monopoly — until it becomes successful and every jerk in town tries to copy it.

What’s your accommodation like?

My wife and I rent a 325sqm, four-bedroom, three-bathroom, three-storey house atop a hill with city views and a lush garden about three miles from the town centre. We pay VND21 million a month. There is an excellent supply of housing here. Rents are cheap.

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Hanoi Nick Ross Just turned 40 / British / Married / Chief editor of Word Vietnam Time in Hanoi: 1.5 years and subsequently, once a month Time in Vietnam: 14 years

Moving up to Hanoi STATS Hanoi is ranked 207 out of 230 cities in the Cost of Living Index*. This makes it 3.4% cheaper than Phnom Penh (Cambodia) and 4.7% more expensive than Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam). The cost of living in Singapore is 2.94 times as expensive as it is in Hanoi.

When it comes to differences between its nemesis, Ho Chi Minh City, two areas can be pulled out. First is food — in Hanoi it’s just a touch cheaper. The real downer, however, is luxury goods. If you want your bargains and to buy all those brands on the fly, head down south.

Even better, go overseas. *expatistan.com

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I headed up to the capital with my wife in the early 2000s. Compared to Saigon, it was sleepy — everything still closed down at 9pm. It was also cheap, much cheaper than down south, except if you wanted to buy fruit not grown in northern Vietnam or imported food. At the time, living in a mixed-race relationship was difficult. My wife was treated badly because she was with a white man, and we often encountered difficulties. It got to the point where she refused to speak Vietnamese on the street. Yet, there was so much work around and the money was good.

So it was tough to leave. I also made some of the best friends there that I’ve had in my adult life.

Recent times

Work brings me up north once a month — I now spend about 25 percent of my life in the capital.

I find it far easier to make friendships in Hanoi — while there are more isolated incidents of aggression, people just seem much more relaxed.

Egos and social status seem less important than they do in Saigon. Yet getting things done is often a nightmare. I remember when we tried to set up our second office — getting the computers and network installed took three days. It should

have taken six hours. The classic in Hanoi is the word ‘Yes’. It has no meaning.

Pros

The seat of government, everyone seems to know someone in Hanoi, making it much easier to network and meet the right people. I also find friendships go far deeper in Hanoi than in Saigon, where they’re much more transient. And don’t forget the street food — formidable.

Cons

Doing business is all about relationships. There is no such thing as business for business’s sake, without some sort of friendship involved.

Unfortunately it's not always an “I scratch your back, you scratch my back” kind of mentality, which can get frustrating. People often try to take advantage of you here. Hanoi is also a strain on the liver. With so little diversity and so few recreational options about, I find myself spending a lot of time drinking. Far more than in Saigon.

Saigon vs. Hanoi

The two cities are like chalk and cheese. The question is trying to work out which one is the chalk, and which one is the cheese.

Brendan Aupy 31 / Irish / Single / English teacher Time in Saigon: 1 year Time in Hanoi: 1.5 years I moved to Hanoi because... I was attracted to living in a different part of Vietnam. I lasted three weeks in the small northern town [I left Saigon to work in]. It was not as advertised, for example no accommodation, just a sh’tty cheap hotel with pink lights everywhere if you know what I mean... I ended up getting a job in the city centre of Hanoi.

I miss Saigon for... the food. In particular Vietnamese BBQ restaurants, they don’t seem to be as popular in Hanoi. Also the western restaurants here are not great and expensive, whereas in Saigon you are spoilt for choice.

The locals are also a bit rude in some places around Hanoi. I think in Saigon they are a bit more tolerable towards western people, and more forgiving for not speaking the language.

I find getting around the city... to be slightly easier in Hanoi, the flow of traffic is not as bad.

The nightlife is better in... Saigon — it’s a lot better for people that like to have more options. Given that there is a curfew here, you

are restricted to going to a few places past a certain time.

Getting work in Hanoi... I found to be easier. I get emails and calls all the time about work, some from schools I’ve worked in, some from other teachers about working in their friends’ schools, some from parents whose friends have schools, things like that. I don't remember that happening in Saigon. I am not sure why this is — maybe there are more English teachers in Saigon.

The living conditions are... cheap and convenient. I live in a serviced apartment / hotel kind of a place, it’s cheap and I have been here for a year now. I like the people that run it, it’s a family business and they take good care of me. I think with a bit of luck you can find a decent place, or could very well end up in a place that’s not so great.

The working conditions are... the same.

Work is work.

74% STATS

In Hanoi, the monthly rent for an 85sqm apartment in an expensive area is VND18,526,500. Add the cost of utilities and pay an additional VND1,082,610.

However, at VND106,667 per hour, getting in the home help here is 74% more expensive than in Saigon. *expatistan.com

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music

At A Glance WHERE: C ARGO B AR (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC)

WHEN: Oct. 31 TBD STUFF: Check facebook.com/ cargosaigon

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INSIDER

HCMC

Howling for Halloween Courtesy of Saigon’s best, live, original music-writing bands, a night of cover music mayhem is making its way to Cargo just in time for Halloween. Here’s what’s in store. Words by Ed Weinberg. Photos by Francis Xavier

The Misfits American, 1977-1983, Horror Punk

R

iding the 1970s tide of American punk and the apocalyptic feel of New Jersey suburbia, The Misfits merged their dual loves of horror films and punk to create a new genre: horror punk. Their two early albums, before Danzig left the band, are considered touchstones of early hardcore music.

This would have been enough, but they also invented a Halloween-ready hairstyle — the devilock. In a devilock, the hair is kept short except for a long, greasy spike descending in the front.

Asian alternative cultures seized on the look in the 1990s, helping to pull it into the mainstream.

Played by: Joy Oi (sort of)

Why the Misfits?

I think doing a Misfits set has been a cream dream for a long time just because their songs are so fun to play and their stage persona was unlike anything aside from Gwar and maybe KISS that existed at that time in my life when I first heard them. [Before starting to practise,] I think Seamus already knew how to play most of the songs.

I

t started at Cargo last year. Poorly promoted and last minute, it was a fun thing to do with friends. “[Matt] Bender told me about how him and the bands in Athens, Georgia used to do it, and he set it up last year,” says Gareth Katz, Matt’s former Joy Oi bandmate and organiser of this year’s Halloween Cover Show edition. “Frankly it was one of the best gigs I've played. David [Haimovich] was supposed to be on guitar for the Misfits, but he was too busy for it because of Space// Panther, and recommended Seamus do it.

That’s where [Gareth’s band] James and the Van Der Beeks started, believe it or not.

“I had so much fun doing it last year, I thought it had to be done this year so I took

the reins.”

The Halloween show has gotten bigger this year, with acts that run across eras and genres. And that can only be a good thing for Saigon’s burgeoning indie scene.

Matt says, “The Halloween cover show is a big deal in Athens, Georgia, where the whole city is walking around in costume, bar-hopping from the Beatles to the Dead Milkmen to Throbbing Gristle, depending on what you’re in the mood for. And playing a good cover show on Halloween has a noticeably positive effect on the amount of fans you'll get out to see your actual band play in the year to follow.”

“This year, we'll have more bands,” Gareth says, “and I'm f’ing pumped.”

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Arctic Monkeys

Joan Baez

Bob Dylan

British, 2002-Present, Indie/Psychedelic

American, 1958-Present, Folk

American, 1961-Present, Folk/Rock

A

rctic Monkeys are pitch-shifting chameleons. They’ve run the gamut from garage rock to hiphop, ballads to post-punk revival.

John Lennon, The Smiths, Aaliyah, Outkast and Black Sabbath are all influences. About their most recent album — 2013’s AM — lead vocalist Alex Turner said, it’s “like a Dr. Dre beat, but we've given it an Ike Turner bowl-cut and sent it galloping across the desert on a Stratocaster”.

Played by: James and the Van Der Beeks

Will it get scandalous?

When our frontman Lewis looks you in the eyes, you’ll orgasm immediately.

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M

adonna wasn’t the first Madonna. When Joan Baez burst onto the scene at the 1959 Newport Folk Festival, her clear voice, long hair, natural beauty and general Earth Mother vibes earned her the nickname ‘barefoot Madonna’. She’s been twanging ever since.

Played by: Saigon Kiss

What's the highlight of your set?

The highlight of my set will be when I perform with my long-lost unrequited love, Bob Dylan.

H

ow the times have a-changed since Dylan first claimed the mantle of the protest song messiah, decided he didn’t want it and left the barn door swinging when he departed the folk music revival for more electric pastures. He’s since tried about everything one can try while playing a guitar and harmonica, on the way to selling 100 million records and being a perennial contender for the Nobel Prize in Literature.

Played by: Alec Schachner

What's the highlight of your set?

Desolation Row, all 10 verses.

Parliament-Funkadelic

Florence and the Machine

New Order

American, 1968-Present, Psychedelic Soul

British, 2007-Present, Art Rock/Baroque Pop

British, 1980-1993/1998-2007/2011-Present, New Wave/Post-Punk

P

arliament-Funkadelic is a funksoul-rock collective founded by the immortal George Clinton in the 1960s, comprising 16 Rock and Roll Hall of Fame-inducted musicians.

But it isn’t the medium, it’s the message: funk.

As The Mighty Boosh episode The Legend of Old Gregg describes, “It’s a funky ball of tits from outer space.

Found by Bootsy Collins when he was just a simple farmer, it made him crazy and he milked the funk and made a funk shake. He then became the funkiest man alive.”

Played by: Dat Phonk

Are you doing interpretations or staying true?

P-Funk would put on some of the most ridiculously funky live shows ever, with up to 20 people on stage at a time, insane lighting and dropping a spaceship down from the rafters. Matching that is impossible, so anything we do can only be considered an interpretation.

F

lorence and the Machine’s sound has been described as a combination of styles, sometimes angular, sometimes soulful. They’re “dark, robust and romantic”, “classic soul and midnight-on-themoors English art rock”. Lead singer Florence Welch has said that her lyrics relate to Renaissance artists: “We’re dealing with all of the same things they did — love and death, time and pain, heaven and hell.”

B

orn from the ashes of Joy Division, New Order took up their synths in the heady new wave days of the 1980s, soon working some New York club sceneinfluenced EDM into their postpunk sound. They were featured on Q Magazine’s 2002 list of 50 Bands to See Before You Die — although as part of the sub-list of 5 Bands That Could Go Either Way.

Played by: The Magic Pinions

Played by: Growsound

Why Florence?

How are the costumes coming?

She has red hair, need I say more?

I don’t think white collar shirts are in short supply here, although I’m not sure I can roll the sleeves as many times with as much precision as Bernie.

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Music “When we Vietnamese talk vinyl, we think of giant hi-fi systems, fancy glossy turntables, rare records — of middleaged Vietnamese dudes dressed to the nines, smoking cigarettes with a cup of coffee on the side looking oh-so-bourgeois and sophisticated, listening to classical or jazz records of artists they probably know nothing about”

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INSIDER

HCMC

Saigon Vinyl Quest The owner of a new, secondhand turntable, Francis Xavier goes on a turbulent quest through the dustbins of history to find out — where can you buy secondhand records in Saigon?

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“When digging through old vinyl in Saigon, be prepared for some sneezing from the musty smell of old records; strange Japanese bands you’ve never heard of, whose names you can’t pronounce; a decent amount of popular 1980s music, but somehow no sign of new wave groups like New Order or Depeche Mode”

A

fter being a music nerd for a while, I decided to take my music listening more seriously — by getting a record player and digging for records. But where could I start? As a 23-year-old Vietnamese girl who’s never lived overseas, I didn’t even know how a record player works — more nerdily, I didn’t even know there were two sides to a record.

But enough embarrassing facts about me.

There’s a first time for everything. It’s okay to start from scratch.

For Vietnamese people, vinyl has always been a fancy thing, one that only audiophiles or people with a lot of money buy. When we Vietnamese talk vinyl, we think of giant hi-fi systems, fancy glossy turntables, rare records — of middle-aged Vietnamese dudes dressed to the nines, smoking cigarettes with a cup of coffee on the side looking oh-so-bourgeois and sophisticated, listening to classical or jazz records of artists they probably know nothing about. Determined to break that stereotype, I began my adventure into the unknown world of Saigon vinyl.

Where the Records Are Spending a while on Google, I found the vnav.vn (Vietnam audio-visual) forum, which is the biggest community of audiophiles and music enthusiasts in Vietnam. After wading through the sections where people show off their hi-fi setups, I found a thread dedicated to record shops and sellers in Vietnam — and a whole new world opened in front of my eyes.

I decided to head to the fancy Gia Dinh Audio (giadinhaudio.com) for my first turntable. I asked the shop guy, “Do you have any entry-level turntables?” — he laughed a bit, but eventually took me to the room where they keep all of their used but still beautiful Japanese turntables. “What’s wrong with an inexpensive, used turntable?”

I wondered. I’m just a hip nerdy kid who wants to find and listen to new music.

After browsing and thinking, I bought a Technics SL-1200 — which is a pretty solid turntable. But the sales guy didn’t look too

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happy with his latest sale.

It probably wasn’t expensive enough.

Desperation Diggings When digging through old vinyl in Saigon, be prepared for some sneezing from the musty smell of old records. You’ll find strange Japanese bands you’ve never heard of, whose names you can’t pronounce.

There’s also a decent amount of popular 1980s music, but somehow no sign of new wave groups like New Order or Depeche Mode.

When looking through the ‘Jazz-Country’ section, you’ll discover all kinds of Sinatra and Connie Francis hits, but not a single Miles Davis or Cal Tjader record. But you’re in luck if you’re into ‘Easy Listening’ — that’s the biggest section in every store I’ve been to. And don’t forget Richard Clayderman and Celine Dion.

Prices, however, are good. You can get unknown Japanese records from VND20,000 to VND80,000. They are in good shape and play even better, louder than other records you’ll get. Others are usually somewhere between VND100,000 to VND250,000 — towards the more expensive end for easy listening stuff. New records are always VND500,000 and up.

Low End Theory Gia Dinh Audio is the only used (kind of) record store I know that has a proper store setup — that is, a few wooden crates on the floor, with genre names quickly written on them, and a record player sitting next to the most worn out record brush I’ve ever seen. Still, it’s a store, not a house, which is different from most.

Most of the other places are very small, in their owner’s houses — sometimes you have to call them to open the door for you when you arrive. All of these places are very scattered, one in Tan Binh, others deep in the alleys of Binh Thanh or on the third storey of some building in District 3. They aren’t connected by any kind of network, probably to keep their records — and record customers — exclusive.

For a classic example of this, go to The Tea Time LP. After some twists and turns on Nguyen Van Dau in Binh Thanh, I arrived and called owner Nga to get the door for me. Nga’s house is classically Vietnamese: one of a few buildings that share the same yard, the same door, the same lock. Her neighbours are her relatives, or relatives of relatives.

According to DJ Datodeo, a record collector living in Saigon, the place is a very “authentic Vietnamese record digging experience”. Just a small corner in Nga’s living room, there’s a small shelf of records, with an old turntable on the side. You sit there on a plastic stool, flipping through records while her kids play some kind of game on her iPhone. Her grandma wears pyjamas and hangs out with other grandmas in the yard, telling you to “drink, drink your tea!”… which makes me wonder, is that where they got the name The Tea Time LP from?

Nga is super nice. Unlike other sellers, she listens to pretty much all of the records she sells, and she can sit with you the whole time you’re browsing and give you recommendations. If a record has major scratches, she’ll give it to you for free no matter how nice the cover looks. And that is how I got my 2001: A Space Odyssey soundtrack.

Voices from the Past Reading a story we ran last year, Douglas Pyper’s 33 Revolutions Per Minute, I got an idea. The story tells about how when Maft

Sai — the Thai vinyl junkie — was here, he stayed at Dan Sinh Market for hours with a portable record player, listening to every record, one after another, trying to save all the musical history that he could get his hands on. That was fascinating.

So I decided to go there for a try. Deep in the maze of the antique market, I found some weirdly coloured, psychedelic-looking records. Most of them are in bad shape, dirty and in the words of Douglas, “look like they’ve been used as chopping boards”.

Some still have covers, but they’re falling apart, crumbling, thrown into plastic bags together with loose discs in the corner of the seller’s kiosk, right on the floor — just like the other things from Saigon’s past scattered all around.

A vendor gave me a bag full of records to choose from. The ones I picked, he threw to the side, on the ground.

Most of the records are Chinese, or Vietnamese EPs with hit songs from Saigon’s musical heyday. Some are pressed in red, orange, green, psychedelic melted-plastic style. Once I bought from one seller, others started asking me if I wanted to buy from them.

Looking at the remnants of old Saigon, at stalls filled with dead soldier’s things, being invited to buy more and more stuff, it left me feeling uneasy. I looked at the records I’d just gotten. Dirty and badly wounded, I somehow felt like they were staring at me, that an unrecorded history was told through the scratches on them. And I wondered what sounds they would make…

The Source V IETNAM A UDIO V ISUALS F ORUM

vnav.vn You can find big or small record stores here, as well as those mentioned

G IA D INH A UDIO

68 Le Trung Nghia, Tan Binh, HCMC; giadinhaudio.vn Sells and repair turntables

T HE T EA T IME LP

183/28 Nguyen Van Dau, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: 0906 730526 (Nga) A quirky home shop, with a knowledgeable owner. Phone before you go to the shop

D ÉJÀ V U LP S HOP

3rd Floor, 492 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, HCMC New and imported LPs, reasonable prices, lots of jazz and classical records

D UNG A UDIO

97 Truong Dinh, Q3, HCMC Record supply and repair, from budget to expensive audio components

D AN S INH M ARKET

Yersin, Q1, HCMC Saigon’s best antique market, where you might find some gems in terrible shape

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leisure

LEISURE

HANOI

The Secondhand Furniture Shop In search of an authentic aura, Julie Vola searched high and low for Hanoi’s fabled secondhand furniture sellers, and soon found a whole stockpile of it 92 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

A

re you like me? Do you spend hours on Pinterest looking at beautiful refurbishing work by people lucky enough to live close by to Salvation Army stores or flea markets or garage sales? Do you wish you could do the same but have lost hope to find such places in Hanoi?

After having my hopes crushed by repeated searching, I had very little hope of finding old furniture. For a long time I

put my desire to give a second life to an old nightstand to the side.

Second Chances My new housemate is just like me — except with a fixation on finding the perfect old desk to repair. So we asked around. Like an urban legend, many people had heard of a place where it was probably possible to find secondhand furniture, but the location was always elusively somewhere on the

other side of the river. Then a friend told me she knew where it was and sent me the Facebook link. Bingo!

The shop is on the other side of the river indeed, and you have to cross the Thang Long Bridge to reach it. Its name: Cho Do Cu Thuong Thuong.

It’s a Salvation Army type of shop, where furniture from out-of-business restaurants, hotels or even schools come to die — or find a new life. It’s a labyrinth, easy to get lost in.

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The alleys are cluttered and furniture that’s fallen down blocks the aisles, sometimes making it impossible to reach a piece you’d seen from afar. It’s mainly full of crap, but depending on what you are looking for, a couple hours in the dusty and sweaty air might turn up a rare pearl.

Where It All Ends Up After investigating that first shop, more information was given to me about another shop, much closer to town, just next to the entrance to Cong Vien Nuoc, the water park on West Lake. The shop seems smaller — though I have been assured it’s three times

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bigger than the other one. There is a girl who speaks good English there and the place looks less of a mess.

If you are a DIY kind of person and are looking for a single piece to fill your Pinterestly desire to renovate a nightstand like me, or are just in search of some bamboo furniture, an oven, some stuff for your kitchen or a new chair, you might find a gem in this Hanoi graveyard.

Cho Do Cu Thuong Thuong is on May Len Cau Thang Long, just over Thang Long Bridge and to the right. For more information and screenshots of new pieces, check facebook.com/ ChoDoCuThuongThuong

“Like an urban legend, many people had heard of a place where it was probably possible to find secondhand furniture, but the location was always elusively somewhere on the other side of the river”

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Food & drink

EAT & DRINK

HANOI

The Strip Peering past new coats of paint, Maureen Littlejohn heads to Quang An in Tay Ho to get a look at a transformed neighbourhood’s first steps. Photos by David Harris

T

here’s an evolution going on in West Lake. Since the beginning of this year, pounding hammers, bricklayers and men with buckets of fresh paint have been transforming a section of this suburban neighbourhood.

Not frenetic Xuan Dieu, but the recently renamed Quang An — it used to be simply Ngo 27, Xuan Dieu. The sleepy waterside strip long helmed by Don’s Bistro is suddenly turning into a food and beverage hotspot. Starting at The Warehouse on the corner of Xuan Dieu, which opened in September 2013, and winding up past Don’s, this short stretch has welcomed five new venues since Tet: R&R Waterfront, Sushi Club, India Palace, The Republic

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and Al Fresco’s.

Why have these establishments veered off Xuan Dieu’s well-beaten path? Ask any of the proprietors and they’ll give you the same answer: too congested, rising rents, and a widening of the road at the top end have stalled opportunities for growth along the busy West Lake artery.

Query them about Quang An’s strongest points and they’ll come back with the view, parking, walkability and room to expand. Plus, they’re hoping the cluster of international cuisine will generate return business from curious clients who want to try something new.

Lakeside pioneer Don Berger, owner of Don’s Bistro, has been in his Quang

An location for six years. “When I first moved into the neighbourhood to live 15 years ago there were no restaurants.

The road along the lake wasn’t finished.

They worked on it for five years and expropriated the backyards of residential homes. Since then the buildings along this road have gone through a lot of renovation.”

Is he worried about all the competition moving in? “Each of these restaurants has its own niche,” Don says. “My clientele is expats and Vietnamese. I offer casual comfort and fine dining. I may lose a bit of market share to cheaper restaurants that attract different clients.”

Looking at the big picture, Berger

“People who live here don’t want to go into the city centre for a night out. It takes too much travel time and the traffic is bad. Here they get decent food and there is a spectacular view”

welcomes the strip’s transformation.

“More restaurants are going to make it more attractive to come here,” he says.

“Maybe one day it can become Hanoi’s Lan Kwai Fong” — a reference to the neglected Hong Kong strip that morphed into an entertainment mecca in the 1980s through the efforts of Canadian developer Allan Zeman.

The New Guys One of his new neighbours, Al Fresco’s, serves up its well-known formula of international comfort fare on a delightful terrace that lives up to the chain’s name.

At the other end of the strip next to The Warehouse, Peter Mitchell, an Australian

IT specialist and restaurateur has transformed the unsuccessful Senso’s into a sister restobar of his R&R Tavern on Nghi Tam. The casual street-side patio and air-conditioned interior entice passers by with R&R’s signature Tex-Mex menu, plus a few upscale items such as salmon and steak.

The restaurant also has a flexible beverage list, one of the perks of having hospitable neighbours. “We don’t have to invest in inventory, we just go next door and get what a customer wants,” says Mitchell.

A couple of doors down, The Republic opened its doors in early September. The brainchild of Chris Vella, an Australian

who worked in food and beverage for the Al Fresco Group for six years, The Republic is a healthier type of sports pub, with an indoor smoking ban. The upper and lower outdoor decks, however, are loaded with ashtrays for clients attached to their vices.

“There was a need for a good sports bar and gastropub in the area,” Chris says.

“Lots of people like sports but they don’t necessarily want to be sitting in the smoke that usually comes along with sports pubs.” The Republic, which holds a little more than 100 people, boasts five TVs in the main bar with a projector beaming games onto a wall outside for those sitting on the deck. “We make sure we cover

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all the big events and split the TVs into groups around the room.”

The pub grub, he hopes, will draw customers for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Throughout the day the kitchen produces mezze-style small plates, six types of burgers (from Waygu beef to vegetarian), steaks and specials including fish, chicken and pasta. “We keep it fresh and simple,” Chris says, adding, “I hope we can contribute to an improved food and beverage culture here in Hanoi. Right now I can count on one hand the number of places you can go and drink and relax with good quality food and service.”

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The Republic is open 7am to midnight seven days a week, and is offering promotions such as Ladies’ Cocktail Nights, Sunday Roasts and Breakfast & Bubbles — brunch with sparkling wine. Soon DJs and musicians will be added to the offering. On their opening night they brought in wellknown Hanoi-based band, The Yard Dogs.

Indian Summer Between The Republic and R&R Waterfront, India Palace took up residence a few months ago and is counting on its food and location to attract customers.

“We were on Xuan Dieu for nine years

and closed in 2012 to focus on a new restaurant, Asia House, in the city centre,” explains owner Ravi Kumar. Asia House — which offered a fusion of Indian and Vietnamese — didn’t fly, according to Ravi, because it wasn’t ‘authentic’ enough. “Traditional Vietnamese dishes feature pork and beef and we didn’t have that.” Tandoor, a very successful Indian restaurant that’s been operating in the city centre since 1996, is also part of the same empire.

“Our new India Palace location on Quang An is smaller than we used to have on Xuan Dieu, but it has a much nicer

view,” says Ravi. And visibility isn’t an issue — they’re relying on word of mouth from the Indian community to build up the restaurant’s business. “They love the food here,” he says — from a menu offering southern Indian non-vegetarian dishes through to the full range of north Indian fare.

This autumn they’ll introduce a buffet special, as well as Indian High Tea on weekends. Ravi is enthusiastic about the area’s potential. “People who live here don’t want to go into the city centre for a night out. It takes too much travel time and the traffic is bad. Here they get decent

food and there is a spectacular view.

Diners can feel calm as they sit beside the lake and forget their worries.”

Growing Pains Any downsides to all this new activity? Some critics say it’s too expat-focused. Others say the prices are too high. The proprietors counter, if you’re looking for local Vietnamese street food or a bia hoi, don’t come to West Lake.

“With such a mix of international restaurants opening in the area,” says The Republic’s Chris Vella, “people will want to come out a few times a week to try different places. We can create a new food culture.”

Further Down On the far end of Quang An in an area once occupied only by the coconut cafes and Italian restaurant Da Paolo, a new hub is growing. With the Phu Tay Ho pagoda on one side, this little enclave has already added the popular Bia Hoi 68, the alternative Tet Décor Café and the more upmarket Backyard Bia Hoi to its midst. A number of local restaurants also take up space and opened at the end of September was a more upmarket version of Tay Tap. Watch this space!

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Food & drink EAT & DRINK

HANOI

The Great Hanoi Starbucks Experiment

T

In July, the American coffee behemoth upped the stakes on its bid to conquer the Vietnamese market — but will it pay off? David Mann gets the word on Starbucks’ move into the capital. Photos by David Harris

he opening of Starbucks’ first three outlets in Hanoi saw throngs of curious Vietnamese line up to order the iconic Venti-sized latté.

Four months later and it’s still too early to tell whether the push into the capital will ultimately prove successful. And for Starbucks, success means replicating other US franchises — KFC comes to mind — that have opened hundreds of stores and spread their influence across this Communist land.

But Starbucks would not be blind to the fact that Hanoi presents a unique challenge for its business model. Here, where there are probably more coffee shops per square

“But Starbucks would not be blind to the fact that Hanoi presents a unique challenge for its business model. Here, where there are probably more coffee shops per square kilometre than anywhere else on Earth, the coffee drinkers are particularly discerning” 100 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

kilometre than anywhere else on Earth, the coffee drinkers are particularly discerning.

This all begs the question: in a market as coffee-clogged as Vietnam, where does Starbucks see its opportunity?

The Starbucks Experience For the expansionist company, it needs to convince a population of discriminating coffee consumers to pay premium prices for a product widely seen as inferior to the home-grown liquid gold.

This challenge seems even more daunting when you consider that many of Starbucks’ specialities, including its ice-blended

frappuccinos and café lattés, were long ago introduced by rivals such as Highlands and Gloria Jean’s.

But Starbucks knows there is one thing it can do better than its competitors: create a coffee ‘experience’. The world over, this is what Starbucks trades on.

Walking into the Ly Tuong Kiet outlet, it’s easy to think you’ve left Vietnam. There’s the art deco furniture, stylish New York décor, soft soundtracks and MacBooks as far as the eye can see. Timber shelves line the walls, stocked with shiny new merchandise. Staff donning the famous green apron smile from behind polished counters, carefully writing

your name on a recyclable cardboard cup.

Even a jaded Australian coffee-snob like myself has to admit that there’s something very impressive about the whole thing — it’s a well-oiled machine.

‘It’s a Nice Place to Spend Time’ Starbucks’ well-oiled nature is perhaps why each outlet has been able to attract a strong showing from all subsets of Hanoi’s population. A visit will guarantee handfuls of tourists and maybe a couple of western diplomats. But the clear majority is made up of Hanoi’s nouveaux riche, huddled over large white mugs.

“It’s a nice place to spend time,” says 28-year-old Ha Hoang. “It feels cool and refined and I don’t have to choke on the clouds of cigarette smoke like at Highlands.”

Linh Nguyen, who’s in sales, says, “I sometimes schedule meetings here because it helps me create a good first impression with clients — especially if they are Vietnamese.”

There is no doubt that Ha and Linh are part of the much vaunted, rising middleclass that is tipped to top 20 million, or 22 percent of the population, over the next few years. And with Vietnam’s current domestic café market already worth US$3 billion (VND66 trillion) every year, it is clear that it is a long-term strategy that could pay off handsomely for Starbucks.

This is especially the case when you

consider the Vietnamese appetite for foreign goods. It’s clear Starbucks is considering it. The company’s Asia-Pacific chairman Jinlong Wang has previously noted that the company aims to appeal Vietnam’s “emerging middle-class consumers who want to enjoy international products”.

Backlash That’s not to say that everyone has welcomed the US company’s arrival.

“It’s not strong enough compared with Vietnamese coffee,” says taxi driver Thuan Anh. “To pay VND80,000 is also very expensive, so I think most people won’t be able to afford it.”

On the other side of the socioeconomic spectrum, Hanoi University student Trang Pham is among a host of coffee-drinkers who think the novelty of the company’s brand may not be enough to attract young consumers in the long run.

“I went with some friends once. It was nice but we actually prefer going to the Coffee Inn, because it’s cheaper and the coffee tastes better,” she says. “But I think the atmosphere is very mature — which is why I think it is popular with the older business crowd.”

Expat Joshua Zukas says, more than Starbucks’ economic impact, some will bemoan the larger impact on Vietnamese culture.

“Having more choice is a good thing but it’s annoying — from a foreigner’s perspective — to come to Vietnam and see

the special coffee atmosphere changing.”

Others have adopted a more nationalistic tone, such as 35-year-old shop owner Huyen Thi Tran.

“We need to support Vietnamese businesses. They’re not good at branding like these big multinationals,” she says. “But if [our own people] can do things just as well, we should be giving more money to them.”

Made in Vietnam All of this overlooks the fact the American coffee giant’s entry into Vietnam may benefit local coffee producers and the industry’s 1.6 million workers — mostly from the Central Highlands — who rely on the coffee sector to earn their living.

Starbucks has promised to look at sourcing more of its coffee locally, which has reportedly led to some Vietnamese farmers changing their crops to Arabica beans. At the moment, however, local newspapers have reported that Starbucks continues to source most of its coffee from Yunnan, China.

The branded merchandise that adorns the walls of Starbucks is also affixed with ‘Made in China’ stickers, another reminder of the importance of economies of scale to their business model.

For now, none of this has diminished the novelty of Starbucks’ entry into the capital, which has largely been successful. And while it’s probably unlikely that it will go broke, time will tell if Vietnam will truly take off its conical hat off to the world’s biggest coffee chain.

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Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

Foodshop 45 With Namaste tightening up the competition in Hanoi’s Indian food scene, our mystery diner goes to an old favourite to see if it still delivers.

Photos by David Harris

T

he smell of spicy masala wafts through the night air as we park our scooter under the open windows of Foodshop 45. I’m yet to look at the menu and already my mouth is watering. Entering the threestorey restaurant, my dining companion and I opt for the airy downstairs dining room with two large open windows overlooking the shore of Truc Bach Lake. As well as the downstairs space, the restaurant offers a more formal air-conditioned dining room on the second floor and a rooftop bar — perfect for enjoying a cold beer and taking in the glistening view.

Truth be told, this is not my first visit to Foodshop 45. Over the past 18 months I have regularly visited to enjoy the lakeside setting, friendly staff and fantastic food.

Opening in 2002, with three small outlets near Chau Long Market, Foodshop moved to its present location in 2006. Since then it has become a staple on the Hanoi restaurant trail and as any curry connoisseur will tell you, this is one of the best places in the city to get your masala fix. Some local additions have been made to adapt the menu to Vietnamese and East Asian tastes — Foodshop serves up beef and pork. But beyond this,

the tastes and spices here remain authentic.

Masala Magic and Paneer Perfection Seated at a low wooden table — uncomfortable seating being one of the only downsides to the restaurant — we flip through the extensive menu. With a 20-page menu full of vegetarian curries, grilled meats and fish, as well as a cornucopia of breads and sides, the menu truly reflects India’s culinary diversity. I notice they offer lunchtime specials and make a mental note to return. For an Indian food lover such as myself, the choice is near impossible. I take a little while deciding, as usual.

We start our meal in the best of fashions — with a cold draft beer (VND35,000) and a plate of mixed pakora, vegetables dipped in spices and chickpea flour then lightly fried (VND50,000 for six). The appetiser is served with the customary sauces as well as a healthy dose of pickle.

The mint green sauce is my favourite, and I happily slather it on my pakora before asking for seconds, then thirds.

Savouring my last mouthful of perfectly fried cauliflower, the waiter whips out the first of our main courses — paneer tikka kebab (VND85,000). I quickly tuck into the plate piled high with vegetables and paneer, marinated

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in yoghurt and spices. The paneer, a fresh curd cheese served in small squares, is unbeatable and Foodshop cooks it to perfection.

This is followed by fish curry (VND95,000) cooked in a tomato and coriander sauce spiced with masala. Fish cooked in curry can easily become overdone, but the nuggets served in Foodshop’s fish curry are ideal. Skipping the rice, an unnecessary stomach filler in the presence of such delicious food, we order two breads, garlic nan (VND30,000) and masala nan (VND45,000).

While the fish and vegetables are delicious, the breads are Foodshop’s weak point. Although they are not hurting for variety (there are 16 different types on the menu), they are too dry and doughy. Luckily the fish curry and mint green sauce does wonders in spicing them up.

As I finish this review, my computer clock clicks over to midday and I feel my tummy rumbling. It may have only been two days since my last curry fix but I’m already seriously considering some lunchtime paneer.

After all, Foodshop 45 does offer a set lunch of two curries with all the trimmings (VND95,000) — including my favourite mint green sauce.

Foodshop 45 is located at 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

THE VERDICT

12.5 FOOD

13

SERVICE

10 DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Bun Ca Hai Phong

H

For this month’s Street Snacker, Huyen Tran tries the ‘sunburnt girl of bun ca’s. Photos by David Harris

anoi, as the northern capital of culinary art, has adopted a variety of dishes that are specialities of other places. When these specialities ‘emigrate’ and become part of Hanoi cuisine, they have to adapt themselves to be Hanoian.

Bun ca, fish noodle soup, is a typical example. Hanoi offers diverse versions of bun ca, all originating from different provinces. Bun ca that originated from the seaport city Hai Phong is said to be most popular. If bun ca is a girl, they say, then the Hanoi version would be a more elegant and charming version of the sunburnt and hot girl from the coastal city.

The Coastal Version “Original bun ca in Hai Phong is so different from the type made in Hanoi,” my Hai Phong-born friend says.

“The major difference lies in its core ingredient: the fish. It’s a verbal rule that the soup associates itself with mackerel. A bowl of mackerel noodle soup is like fish and chips for our people.

“One thing is special,” she continues, “we have a secret sauce in the soup, made

of tamarind. The tamarind makes the soup sweetly sour. If you haven’t heard, Hai Phong is famous for its tamarind crab and fabulous seafood” — she smiles.

“But you may not have heard of cha ca Hai Phong — Hai Phong deep-fried minced fish cake. It is totally different from anywhere else in Vietnam. It is super thin, crunchy and rich in taste, with the signature smell of minced mackerel. It is our pride!”

The Elegant Sister Hanoians are very selective in their ways of cooking and enjoying food. Someone even gave it a name — ‘elegant’. When it comes to bun ca, cooks try to keep the ‘soul’ of the dish while making slight changes to accommodate us picky Hanoians.

“I first brought our original version to Hanoi,” says Huong, a Hai Phong-born bun ca specialist, “and opened Bun Ca Huong Quynh Hai Phong on Xa Dan around seven or eight years ago. At first, I intended to keep it original. But the diners didn’t like it.”

In terms of the Hanoi criteria, bun ca shouldn’t be made with saltwater fish

— but instead with freshwater fish. The soup must be light, both delicately sweet and sour, and rich in that fishy taste.

“This is not hard to understand. In Vietnam we say, when in Rome, do as the Romans do! To be a part of Hanoian cuisine, the dish must be adapted to fit Hanoian tastes. To Hanoians, the freshwater fish is the one that brings the sweetness in taste, firmness and an excellent smell when deep-fried — not the saltwater one.”

Taking Sides So now you’ll ask, which version is better?

“It is so hard to vote,” says Huong. “For someone like me who used to live in the seaport city, the way we cook our bun ca is a tradition of my hometown. But when I moved here, I got the Hanoi taste, and it’s not simply a crush. I am dedicated to making it better every day, making it as ‘elegant’ as it can be.”

The Hanoi version of bun ca can be found at Bun Ca Huong Quynh, 195 and 243 Xa Dan, Dong Da. The Hai Phong version is offered at 103-D1 Tran Huy Lieu, Ba Dinh. A bowl of bun ca ranges from VND30,000 to VND45,000

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Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

Saigon Indian One of the city’s longest running Indian restaurants, our undercover reported decided to check out this local favourite. Photos by Glen Riley

H

indu temples are full of bright colours and otherworldly motifs.

And while the first-floor Saigon Indian doesn’t include the light blues, pinks and greens of typical Hindu design, the deep oranges, dark yellows and subtle lighting at once set this long-running Saigon eatery apart from other restaurants in its vicinity. Walk up the well-worn stairs, enter the slightly ramshackle lobby and suddenly you are in a different world.

There are quirks aplenty at this restaurant. Elephant and snake charmer silhouettes on the windows, classic Indian images portraited and framed on the wall, and an atmosphere that is at once modern yet pleasantly classic. There’s also something nicely atmospheric about the place — an oasis of non-Vietnamese calm in the centre of a nonstop, increasingly frenetic city.

Southern Flavour My trips to Saigon Indian have always

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been based around a craving for South Indian cuisine. The lack of yoghurt and cream, the greater focus on vegetables, the deeper spice and the batter-based snacks like the dosa, vada and idly have always whetted my appetite far more than the fare more typical of the north. And yet it’s northern Indian cuisine that — except for in Malaysia and Singapore — is the taste and flavour experienced by the world.

As with previous excursions to this eatery, I avoided northern cuisine and instead went straight for the deep south — hitting up a lunchtime dosa masala (VND75,000). Served up with two nicely tart chutneys — tomato and coconut — the crispy dosa was filled with a mildly spiced mix of potato and peas. Mixed with the vegetable sambar served on the side, there was something quite moreish about the combination. With a side of the dry and spicy aloo gobi mattar (VND70,000 — peas, cauliflower and potato) added in, I nearly licked the plate clean. The dishwasher would have been ecstatic.

Indian Chinese With a delivery order thrown in between my next visit — the standouts were the ochre-based bhindi dry fry (VND65,000) and the vegetable chettinad (VND70,000), both dishes that even my mother-in-law raved over — this time round I hit up the Indian-Chinese section of the menu.

Introduced by Saigon Indian five or six years ago, as far as I know this is the only restaurant in Vietnam serving up this hybrid cuisine immensely popular in India.

Adjusted to fit the local palate, Indian Chinese cuisine has been developed over the past century by the Chinese living in Kolkata. Flavoured with cumin, coriander seeds and turmeric, today it is an integral part of the country’s cuisine.

Not quite sure what to expect, I went for the paneer Manchurian dry (VND84,000).

It fit perfectly into my preconceptions of how this hybrid should taste. Essentially glutinous sweet and sour cottage cheese, combined with garlic, ginger, green chilli

and soy sauce, the final dish transformed itself into something entirely different. I can’t put my finger on the taste — it was too unusual for me to pigeonhole — except that the dish sat well on the palate.

The chilli lamb (VND132,000) was equally disarming yet tasty. Served up with sweet green peppers — you never see cilantro in Indian cuisine — this was like a spicy, fusion version of chicken or pork with black bean sauce. I finished the whole dish.

For anyone looking for a more unusual dining experience, I would certainly recommend trying out the Indian-Chinese menu. But for me the real beauty of this eatery is the cuisine served up from the south, from provinces like Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and Telangana. Yes, it’s a personal preference.

But the fare is done well here — the number of Indian diners I encountered on each visit pays testament to this.

Saigon Indian is at 73 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, HCMC

THE VERDICT

12.5 FOOD

10

SERVICE

12 DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

fashion

HIPSTERS. Words by Duhwee Pham and Ed Weinberg.

Photos by David Harris and Francis Xavier. Thank you Thanh Em for helping with the shoot.

HIPSTERS HANOI

Da Noi La (B.I)

Age: 28 Occupation: Production manager at C.K’s Studio Workstation — facebook. com/C.Ks.Studio Starting out in the b-boy era, he hung with the first generation of hipsters in Hanoi. But as comfortable as they are, baggy clothes never sat right with him. Remember The Curious

Case of Benjamin Button? That one scene where he rode off to India?

Apparently Benjamin made a quick stop in B.I’s head and motivated him to find a style that fits him more.

These days you can find him in biker jeans — wearing them loose, in a throwback to his b-boy time — riding his favorite café racer on one of his phuot (backpacking) trips. He also has an extensive collection of leather jackets for the winter.

“Don’t wear what you might regret five years later. I opt for what works

both

professionally

personally.”

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and

Starting out in the early 2000s, when b-boy culture first invaded Vietnam, have

the

been

youth

dressing

of

Vietnam

with

the

times. In the years since, the more style-

on

conscious among us have refined their looks.

Asian neighbours. Fast-forward to 2015 and

They’ve

these hip kids are shining the way to a more

toned

up

with

tips

from

Tumblr

blogs and Lookbook.nu, and begun feasting

the

castaways

of

our

more

futuristic

whimsical, existential and sexy Vietnam.

Danny St. Louis

Age: 20 Occupation: ‘The Spicy Bartender of Daluva’, personal stylist, graphic designer and most importantly ‘The Queen of Saigon’ A

new

addition

to

the

hipster

population of Hanoi, Danny quickly established

his

presence

within

the scene. The mark of his style is a sassy and feminine touch. As a self-admitted closet shopaholic, he spends a sizable amount of time scavenging for inexpensive pieces with hidden style. Even in Hanoi, where

the

options

are

limited

compared to his native Saigon, he’s still able to find gems at places on Dong Cac Street in O Cho Dua or Myriad (1A Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi).

While you can easily spot him in tights, heels and booty shorts on a night out, he’s equally at home in a plain shirt and rolled-up skinny jeans complementing Uncle Ho-style sandals.

“Be comfortable with yourself and your choices, to be able to like many different things only makes it easier for you to be happy.

Embrace your peculiarities, we all have them, some of us just choose to showcase them in a more obvious manner.”

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 107

Bach Duong Jacob

Age: 20 Occupation:

Student

at

London

College of Fashion, owner of Bach Duong House — facebook.com/pages/ Bach-Duong-House/207524066125119 There isn’t a better way to be ironic than wearing a bright green rain poncho-inspired top on a harsh sunny day. And that doesn’t even begin to encapsulate Bach Duong’s fashion choices.

It was an eye opener for her when she saw the fashion of Guangzhou, China.

Standing out was a man with halfpink, half-green hair, who inspired her to put aside expensive designer clothes and get more in touch with who she is. Nowadays, she takes time every morning to contemplate her style, the persona she will take on for the day, like a fashion-forward chameleon.

“Don’t get lost in trends, don’t blame the messiness of your fashion choices on them. Balance is your best friend, dedication will fortify your friendships.”

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Tuan Anh

Age: 23 Occupation:

Student

at

London

College of Fashion, contributor to Dep Magazine Born in Hanoi, a considerable chunk of Tuan Anh’s life has been spent in Japan, Singapore and Saigon. As a result his fashion choices range from niche Japanese styles to Top Man pieces from Singapore that he bought while waiting for trains.

The backbone of his style is formflattering clothes, taken in funky foreign directions.

He

mostly

goes

casual,

street-

wear style. In his own words, he’s “a footwear worshiper”. Well-cut shorts and often two tops round out his thin-figured look.

“Vietnamese are told from a young age to care about what others say about you, something that restricts young people from fully expressing themselves. As someone who has been around, I want to say you should know yourself and your body. Then spend

time

looking

up

trends,

find out what’s happening with the industry. With these in mind, you can find your own distinct style and stick with it!”

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 109

SCENESTER SAIGON

Frankenstein Truong

Age: 24 Occupation: Multimedia visualist, freelance

fashion

photographer,

founder of MUSE Arts — facebook.com/ Musearthub Frank has always been dedicated to the beauty of life, and fashion is one of his most interesting playgrounds.

Besides western classic clothes, he also loves certain Japanese streetwear

styles.

Frank’s

favourite

outfit is a black silk shirt with leopard patterns from Japan, and vintage black oval glasses. Having his own signature is what Frank’s building and giving up too soon is not an available option.

“The perfect set of clothes matches the feeling, the spirit and the soul of its wearer. A fascinating fashion needs to be born wild, live free and not be constrained.”

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Thao Dominic

Age: 21 Occupation: editor,

Freelance

runs

the

photo

fashion/

lifestyle blog suninagoldencup. blogspot.com Fashion and photography are the dual passions of Thao’s life, the dreams she’s been chasing since a young age. Her style is a mix of bohemian and a little taste of vintage fashion from the 1970s. More exactly, she’s obsessed

with

cardigans shirts.

and

Her

floral

kimono

tribal-pattern

favourite

items

are the awesome glasses she got from Mayhem Saigon (136/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1). “I wear them nonstop! They can be mixed with a variety of different outfits,” she says.

“Personally

to

me,

I

would

rather wear something really weird and ridiculous on the street, than go with safe with absolutely boring stuff. It’s my

motto,

and

I

am

totally

enjoying doing fashion in that specific way.”

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 111

Mike Pham

Age: 26 Occupation: Co-founder and creative director of Mayhem Saigon — facebook. com/Mayhem.Saigon Mike

likes

listening

to

music,

making music, slacking in the woods and some provocative stuff that can’t be listed here. He believes there’s heaven, he believes in war.

He believes that marriage isn’t between a man and woman, but between love and love.

Mike’s style is a mixture of Tokyo hobo, Zach Galifianakis, Captain Benjamin L. Willard and a good chunk of Kanye West. He has more shirts than T-shirts, but his favourite items in his closet right now are his new boxer briefs — “they make me feel super comfortable, and most importantly like a man, you know. I don’t think I’d be outstanding on the streets of Tokyo or Brooklyn, but hell I own the first vintage store in Saigon. Therefore I have to represent it.”

“Too weird to live, too rare to die.” — Hunter S. Thompson

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Sunny Nguyen

Age: 25 Occupation: Avid culture cultivator She calls her style ‘intellectual trailer trash’ — which she gets by making

contrasting

things

work.

You’ll find her in ripped high-waist jeans or her current favourites, vintage

Japanese

floral

print

shirts she got from Mayhem Saigon (136/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC).

Avec attitude.

Sunny recognises a responsibility to shape and encourage the younger generation and their talents — in that way, upholding the richness of Vietnamese culture.

“You can never be overdressed or overeducated.” — Oscar Wilde

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 113

travel

Photos by Roger Stone

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TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

The People of Myanmar

M

It’s the people you meet on a travel that make it memorable, that teach you something. While traipsing around Myanmar for a month, Niko Savvas got the kindest, warmest, realest welcome he could imagine.

yanmar, formerly known as Burma, is a country famous for all the wrong reasons. Repressive military junta? Check. Bloody history of ethnic turmoil? Check. Violent suppression of political dissidents? Take a minute to Google ‘Saffron Revolution’ and see what pops up.

Knowing all of this, why would any reasonable traveller choose Myanmar for their next holiday? The answer, according to most guidebooks, is that the Burmese are a remarkably friendly and good-natured people despite their decades of suffering.

However, in my experience most guidebooks are outdated at best and wildly inaccurate at worst.

So I decided to go see for myself.

Bagan Often compared to Angkor Wat by people who call any island with some sand and a coconut tree the ‘Hawaii of _____’, Bagan

is famous for its ancient temples. From mammoth pyramids to tiny stupas, the endless sprawl of temples provides a perfect backdrop for breathtaking photography.

Colourful hot air balloons drift serenely over the Martian landscape — endless stretches of parched reddish soil, dusty patches of scraggly brush trees, swirling clouds of golden sand along the banks of the Irrawaddy River. It really is a photographer’s dream.

As long as you can keep the obnoxious jerks around you out of your shot, that is.

Behind every great sunrise photo there is a photographer, and behind that photographer is a swarm of tourists who would happily shove him off a five-storey temple if it meant more room for selfies. As the crowds pushed higher and higher, jostling for precious tripod-space, I was swept away to the very edge.

There I stood shoulder to shoulder with

a tiny Burmese woman in large bug-lensed sunglasses, our toes hanging over the reddish-orange bricks.

She shrugged her shoulders sympathetically as she pulled a pack of cigarettes from her pocket and offered me one. “Want a smoke? Looks like you could use one.” I shook my head as politely as I could — call it western naïveté, but smoking on top of a temple seemed blasphemous to me.

She sensed my hesitance. “It’s cool man, relax,” she said, blowing out a puff of silverygrey smoke. “This is just a pile of old rocks.

I’m Suu, by the way.” She drew lazily on her cigarette, flicking ash onto the old Chinese ladies below us. I was fascinated — this rulebreaking tobacco fiend was infinitely more interesting than the panorama before me. I asked her what she was doing in Bagan.

“Tour guide, of course,” she said, launching into a familiar script, “and before

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 115

Photos by Caroline Blasco

you ask — my English is good because I lived in Singapore. I watch a lot of American TV shows too… you ever see Homeland? I love CIA stuff.” I stared at her in slack-jawed amazement.

We kept talking, long after the sun had risen above the temple fields and the Chinese tourists had departed for shadier climes. Our conversation ranged from Nobel laureate and western media darling Aung San Suu Kyi (“attention-grabbing poseur”) to the hottest K-pop stars (“G-Dragon, for sure”). When it was time to go, I asked her if there was anything she’d like foreigners to know about the Burmese people.

She looked at the ground for a moment and replied, “We’re real people. Not goodhearted, not simple — we’re real.”

Kalaw Kalaw is a colonial-era hill station in the central Shan State. A cool and mountainous place, it was settled by Indian and Nepali railroad workers after their British overlords decided that was cheaper than sending them home. Today most foreign visitors stop there only briefly en route to Inle Lake, a much more popular tourist destination. Aside from a central market and a handful of Nepali restaurants, there isn’t much to do in Kalaw.

Especially when you arrive at 4am.

When I stepped off the bus, I was stunned by the frigid air. In southern Myanmar I had never stopped sweating, yet here I might

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have been in the Himalayas. To make matters worse, the town seemed completely deserted.

Rows of small wooden houses lined the rutted main road, windows dim and silent; even the roosters were quiet.

Frantically I rubbed my hands together and glared at my travel buddy, a RussianIsraeli by the name of Pasha. “What are we supposed to do for the next four hours?” I hissed through chattering teeth.

We hefted our bags and trudged down the road, each building emptier than the one before. We were walking through a Wild West ghost town after the gold dried up.

Until we came across the teahouse.

Huddled beneath a shabby tin roof sat a small cluster of plastic chairs and tables, where old Burmese men in fur-lined parkas sipped hot milk-tea and munched on deepfried sticks of dough. Their eyes were glued to a gigantic plasma screen TV, upon which Chelsea was beating the living hell out of Liverpool.

A sturdy man with thick black hair and Indian features rose to greet us. A Bluetooth headset blinked in his ear. “Please, sit!” he boomed, “We have WiFi! My name is Mr. Samir. Do you like football?” He handed me a steaming cup of tea.

I turned to Pasha, my mouth agape, but he had already produced several electronic devices and was pestering Mr. Samir for the password. “High speed, dude!” Pasha exclaimed excitedly. Mr. Samir’s broad dark

Photo by Roger Stone

Photo by Niko Savvas

“When it was time to go, I asked her if there was anything she’d like foreigners to know about the Burmese people.

She looked at the ground for a moment and replied, ‘We’re real people.

Not good-hearted, not simple — we’re real’” face beamed at the compliment. He was the proud proprietor of a technological oasis in the middle of a blacked-out desert.

“Please sit… drink… eat… watch football with us. Here it is safe and warm. You can wait for the hiking later. Now we are relaxing.”

So we sat together until dawn, sipping tea and nibbling fried dough, checking Facebook and chain smoking. We asked Mr. Samir no questions, because the important stuff was already clear. His tea was hot. His chairs were comfortable. His heart was kind.

And he had WiFi.

Hpa An Hpa An, a tiny town in Myanmar’s southeastern Kayin State, is famous for its cave temples. I use the word ‘famous’ liberally — few foreign tourists make the bumpy, crowded journey by night bus from Yangon. Only a few guesthouses are even licensed to allow non-Burmese.

Some of the cave temples feature communal swimming holes — fed by streams of cool, greenish water that trickle down from the mountains and provide a welcome respite from the oppressive Burmese heat. The desk clerk at my guesthouse recommended I stop at one for an afternoon dip to catch an authentic glimpse of local life. It wasn’t a hard sell.

When I arrived at the little grotto, I was welcomed by a frenzy of activity — old

ladies handwashed their brightly-coloured longyis while unruly teenage boys performed backflips into the shallow water. Tattooed monks in their saffron robes were chain smoking and checking out the girls. The air was filled with happily chattering voices and the smell of roasted corn.

It was really an idyllic scene until the man started screaming.

From across the pool, I saw a small, thin figure being carried towards the water like a trussed pig, yelling piteously at the men who held his arms and legs. He had a small, neat beard and an unmistakable look of panic in his eyes. His cries grew more urgent and pathetic as they neared the pool and I gritted my teeth, not wishing to intervene but horrified by the bullying before my eyes.

Clearly the man was mentally and physically disabled. He began to sob as he was dropped into the water, his legs sinking limply as he tried in vain to keep his head above the surface. The two other men grabbed him by the shoulders and forced him down into the muddy pool, deaf to his anguished protests.

I clenched my fists and looked around to see if anyone was going to help this man before he was drowned in broad daylight.

Nobody stirred. It was soon obvious why.

When the man’s head reemerged from the water, his eyes shone with joy rather than fear. He waved his arms happily back and forth as he laid on his back while the two ‘tormentors’ pushed him in lazy figure

eights. Some teenagers offered their inner tubes, and soon the thin bearded man was surrounded by a group of Burmese old and young, all of whom were laughing and playfully splashing water. Eventually one of the men hoisted him onto his back, like a father carries his child, and he staggered out of the pool. They sat together at the water’s edge as he ruffled the thin bearded man’s hair and dried his damp face, avoiding his mirthful swipes with patient good humour.

There are no social services for poor rural Burmese, no bureaucratic safety net for those unable to harvest rice or build houses or repair machinery. Life is difficult enough for the sharp-minded and able-bodied. One might expect the handicapped to be doomed to a Hobbesian existence at best — nasty, brutish and short.

Yet I couldn’t help but notice the neatness of the man’s beard, or the rows of straight white teeth when he smiled. Somebody was taking care of him. I sat and watched while his two protectors rubbed his stick-like limbs with soap and combed his hair with unmistakable tenderness. They dressed him in clean dry clothes and held a bottle of water to his lips, like two burly mothers tending to an enormous newborn.

The thin bearded man turned his head back and forth between them, flashing his brilliant smile and eyes full of gratitude, and I thought that maybe just this once the guidebooks got it right.

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travel

“The bo within aompf, boompf 300km split second, boompf of c / h the douh they go dow of each car h anging down g u n ble ben d at aro three or fourrtling past. Froears greets u and eng und 170km/ notches be m speeds o s for h. f ine mus t be ph The force on e navigating enomen both dr iver al�

Photo provided by STB

Southeast Asia has two international sporting events that draw in the crowds — the Singapore Grand Prix and the Hong Kong Sevens.

Nick Ross, words, and Kyle Phanroy, photos, were lucky enough to go to one of them

I Formula TRAVEL

SINGAP ORE

One

’ve never been a fan of the mainstream stars of the music scene, but as J-Lo prepares to perform in front of 60,000, the buzz is palpable. I’m not getting carried away here — it’s Jennifer Lopez after all — but I’m intrigued. For someone who sits on the judging panel of American Idol and tells others how to perform, how good is she in her own right?

Yet despite the buoyant outdoor music festival atmosphere, a rarity in Southeast Asia, the setting for this is still a touch bizarre. The 2014 Formula One Singapore Airlines Singapore Grand Prix has just finished — full of incident, it was one of the most exciting races in years — and next door within the confines of the same event is a music festival. Racing and music. It seems uncanny, but it’s typical of the smart spin Singapore puts on things. Not only is it financially sound, but the concept works, too. The thrill of the festival atmosphere is infectious.

The Qualifiers and The Rain We arrived in Singapore on the Friday and made it to the Grand Prix practice session.

Our hosts had booked the Singapore

Photo provided by STB

“‘Put up your hands if you love a big booty!’

J-Lo roars” Photo provided by STB

Suite, a makeshift Grand Prix building right on the race circuit. They also put on a networking event and a stand-up buffet with champagne, excellent cocktails and entertainment. Then on Saturday we went to the qualifying session. It was divided into three sections, each one cutting off drivers until the final session, Q3, when over 12 minutes the remaining 10 cars battled it out for the key positions on the grid.

Within the last few minutes of Q3, six drivers passed the previous fastest lap time until at the death Mercedes’ Louis Hamilton just beat his teammate, Nico Rosberg, to pole position by 0.007s. As it happened, we held our breath, gasped, and then held it again.

It was sensational.

But then, with perennial entertainer Robbie Williams set to come to the stage, there was a setback.

Rain. Heavy rain, monsoon-like rain. We ran for cover.

And as a soaked Robbie Williams sung his heart out to a crowd drenched to the bone, there was a sense of energy about the place. J-Lo would never do that, everyone said, applauding the former Take That heartthrob not just for his act, but for his professionalism. We never got the chance to find out how J-Lo would have reacted — on Sunday it didn’t rain.

The Finale As the cars head to the starting grid, we’re downstairs in the festival area, watching the drama unfold on huge screens. The crowd is thin but all the pop-up restaurant stalls and bars already have queues. As the checkered flag waves, there’s a roar from the fans.

45 seconds later the ground beside us rumbles as the cars fly past out of our sight.

Another 1 minute and 50 seconds later it happens again, but this time as the field starts to stretch, the roar is longer. Lap 3, lap 4, lap 5, it extends even further, and then it starts to come in bursts.

Nothing can prepare you for the sensation of watching Formula 1 live. TV doesn’t do it justice. First is the speed. It’s phenomenal — blink and the cars are gone.

Then the noise. The new V6 Turbo engines mean that the roar of previous years has been tempered — earplugs are now only

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an option rather than a necessity.

Our grandstand seats are located on a straight but we’re close to a chicane — the boompf, boompf, boompf of changing down gears greets us within a split second of each car hurtling past. From speeds of 300km/h they go down three or four notches before navigating the double bend at around 170km/h. The force on both driver and engine must be phenomenal. How these drivers manage to overtake each other at such speeds with such miniscule margins is impossible for me to contemplate.

Halfway through the race there’s a collision, and then right in front of where my group is sitting a fender is sucked under the wheels and pieces of carbon go flying.

The crowd stands up exhilarated, scared, shocked. “Oh no!” people shout. It’s the biggest excitement of the race.

The safety car comes out and the cars bunch back up together. After a few laps, with the track cleared, the safety car leaves and the race is back on — but all margins between the cars are lost. The equation in the race has changed. Hamilton is in the lead, but with his gap erased he’s now using the wrong tyres. He’s on super soft and as his tyres will degrade, he needs another pitstop — it will take around 27 seconds.

To make it and still be in the lead, the Mercedes driver has to build up a gap of 30 seconds over his nearest rival, Vettel, who doesn’t need to change tyres. Riccardo and Alonso are close behind in 3rd and 4th. They also don’t need a change.

Hamilton gets 25 seconds ahead but has to come in. It’s a quick pitstop — but Vettel snags the lead. Suddenly, with nine laps to go, four cars have a chance of finishing first on the podium.

Two laps go by and in dramatic circumstances, Hamilton takes Vettel on the bend. The crowd booms with excitement.

He stretches his regained lead with ease.

But now there’s a battle on for the minor places — from 2nd to 4th and 6th to 12th. As the cars go into the last two laps, everyone is overtaking everyone else. Some drivers make a final, last gasp surge towards the front, while others lose rankings. The chequered flag is raised, we clap and cheer, and realise that with all the drama we’ve

been truly on the edge of our seats.

Once again it’s sensational.

The Lopez Factor As J-Lo prepares to come on, a crowd of 60,000 heads towards the stage. Her first costume is white and she’s there with her dancers, doing the J-Lo thing — strutting, strutting and strutting. Always from one side of the stage to the other.

“Put up your hands if you love a big booty!” she roars. The crowd responds in kind.

The lights go low, J-Lo disappears and then returns with a miniskirt that comes down just above her crotch. She parades her booty, shaking, wriggling, gyrating.

Dripping with sweat, she flourishes her performance with her trademark strut.

She then goes into a big, five-second booty shake. The crowd screams in appreciation and our photographer and I make to leave — we’ve got a date with the highest rooftop bar in Asia and an after-party.

A Taste of the Big Time Regardless of my musical preferences, both

the Grand Prix and the music festivals are huge events, the kind of shows that I crave for. Unfortunately the likes of J-Lo and Robbie Williams don’t go to off-the-beaten track Vietnam. No stadium is big enough to hold them, the gig fee is beyond promoters’ imagining, the performers’ riders are almost impossible to fulfill and ticket prices are still low — to see J-Lo the crowd paid up from S$188 (VND3.15 million) a go. It was sold out.

Yet that this kind of event is happening in Southeast Asia is already huge. With musical tastes here still very much focused on the mainstream, it will be a while before we get a Glastonbury, a Lollapalooza or a Bonnaroo in this region.

But for now the yearly Grand Prix in Singapore is definitely one to put on the bucket list. As one of my hosts said, “There are only two days in the year when all Singaporeans get together. One of them is National Day, the other is the Grand Prix.”

This thing is big.

For more information on the Singapore Grand Prix, go to singaporegp.sg. The 2015 event will take place between Sep. 18 and Sep. 20

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 121

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TRAVEL

HCMC

Cu Chi The Hard Way Cu Chi is the kind of excursion people often go on when first arriving in Vietnam, and never again. Ian Wills explores a deeper side of the experience, aided by a quirky itinerary courtesy of Grasshopper Adventures. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

L

iving in Ho Chi Minh City has its ups and downs. The sheer density of people and traffic can become exhausting after a while — so when the opportunity to get away from the daily grind for a day occurred I jumped at the chance.

Grasshopper Adventures is a specialist tour company that since 2004 has been arranging trips across Asia, from half a day to several weeks. The adventure I was to go on would be a day trip: first via speedboat, then mountain bike, then on foot around one of Vietnam’s most important historical sites — all before heading back to Ho Chi Minh City by minivan. Quite an impressive itinerary.

Promising Beginnings I jump out of bed at 6.30am, raring to go. A

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quick shower and a xe om ride later, I arrive at 7.15am at the Les Rives boat terminal and am ushered onto our waiting speed boat, bobbing on the Saigon River. Fruit, baguettes and coffee are handed out as we speed along at an exhilarating pace, with our driver expertly negotiating the waves and patches of shrubbery floating on the surface of the river.

After cruising for close to one-anda-half hours, with everyone seemingly having their sea legs intact, we arrive at the Ben Duoc branch of the tunnels. This is the moment Kyle and I depart from the remaining group — who set off to see the more accessible tunnels — and set off on what is supposed to be a comfortable 30km zigzagging bike ride to the lesser-known Ben Dinh Cu Chi Tunnels.

While we’re told the road ahead is mostly

flat, we’re also given a warning that chickens may be trying to cross — so keep vigilant. I start by alighting a pristine mountain bike and taking a short amble around the car park, reacquainting myself with pedals and gears while Kyle meets his xe om driver — it’s easier to take photos from the back of motorbike. Our guide is ultra-fit. His name is An and he is charm personified. As we head off, I am advised to keep a few metres behind in case any wildlife decides to cross our path.

Plantations and Factories After riding for just a couple of kilometres — it somehow feels like more — we arrive at our first stop: a rubber plantation. An informs us of how the sap is gathered from the trees and protected from the rain. The trees are not native to Vietnam but were

“Kyle, back in intrepid photographer mode, walks out into the wetlands to get up close and personal. I watch from the sidelines, taking in the enormity of the place� wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 123

brought over from the Amazon during the French colonial era. The plantation stretches as far as the eyes can see, and it seems almost unreal that we are still close to the newly industrialised parts of Ho Chi Minh City.

As we continue on our journey, the heat starts affecting my desperately pale complexion. Our next rest stop is a welcome respite. The rice paper factory is yet another reminder of Vietnam’s still strong links to its agrarian roots. As the workers get on with their business, An gives us a thoroughly informed presentation of each stage of rice paper production: from soaking the rice to drying it in sheets in the sun, to cutting appropriate shapes for delivery to the next part of the chain. When it’s time to go, I last about 200 metres before I decide my aching body has had enough.

The Water Buffalo

“The plantation stretches as far as the eyes can see, and it seems almost unreal that we are still close to the newly industrialised parts of Ho Chi Minh City”

I ask how many of the 30 kilometres we have covered already. I’m dismayed at the answer — a mere 8. Kyle, having plenty of photos in the bag already, generously offers to take over cycling duties as I collapse — water bottle in hand — onto the back of the motorbike.

A further 7km down more flat dirt tracks we arrive at our mid-ride break, after just over an hour-and-a-half in the saddle between us. We are presented with cold water, bananas, watermelon, a variety of nuts and coffee-infused biscuits to replace our spent fuel and prepare us for the next part of our journey. I generously allow Kyle to ride the next 3km to the water buffalo, while I fall or rather clamber into the luxury of the awaiting minivan.

Arriving at the paddy field about 15 minutes later, we are greeted by a magnificent water buffalo — who we are assured is a gentle soul. Kyle, back in intrepid photographer mode, walks out into the wetlands to get up close and personal.

I watch from the sidelines, taking in the enormity of the place.

After having ridden 8km myself, and Kyle relieving me for 7km, we both decide the second half of our journey to the tunnels would be best served on the more direct paved roads, via minivan. Looking at the state of us, especially me, our guide immediately agrees.

The Tunnels No visit to Vietnam would be complete without a trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels, networks of underground passageways dating back to 1948 that were used by proUnion forces. After recovering in the van, we embark on a leisurely walking tour as our guide shows us the various bunkers and tunnels — both original and widened for larger tourists. It is inspiring to see the ingenuity that can be brought by need.

Our guide gives us the full lowdown on how the tunnels were layered and interconnected, even designed with natural air conditioning. There are also bunkers for surgeries on injured combatants, and

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specialist underground meeting rooms to discuss strategy. We are given a measured account of how the network progressed and developed through time. There is an electric display to show in simple terms how the system worked, which our guide assiduously takes us through.

After our exhaustive look around the complex — including a taste of locally produced tapioca, and a wander through the inevitable tourist stalls selling everything from bullets on necklaces to fake Zippos — we head away from the highlight of our trip.

A short ride in the minivan takes us to a well-known local restaurant. We order enough food to feed 10, let alone three.

The eatery earns its reputation due to its delicious beef dishes, morning glory and vegetable options.

Running slightly ahead of time, we have the perfect opportunity to talk more with our guide, An. Kyle asks the pertinent question as to what percentage of tourists on these trips are avid cyclists, and how many are people trying it out for the first time in a while like me. The answer: 80 percent for the avid cyclist.

Two days after turning 41, I was made to feel every one of those years and accept that I had been living in denial about my own level of personal fitness. I mean, how hard can riding a bike be? It’s something I did a lot of in the first half of my life. Surely getting back on couldn’t be that difficult? I soon found out I couldn’t be more wrong.

While I thoroughly enjoyed the tour and got some truly fascinating insights despite eight years already in Vietnam, I would certainly have benefitted from recognising my own level of fitness. I’d recommend this style of adventure tour without reservation — as long as you go into it with a keen sense of self-awareness.

For more information on the kinds of handcrafted specialist tours offered by Grasshopper, visit grasshopperadventures.com

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$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006 cucphuongtourism.com

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$$ Tel: (04) 3935 1888 emeraude-cruises.com Reproductions, of 19th– century paddle steamers, trawl around Halong Bay in colonial style. A classic experience, complete with, overnight accommodations in impeccable cabins suites.

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$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743 lavievulinh.com

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla.com Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.

In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031) 388 0888 pearlriverhotel.vn

MAI CHAU LODGE

$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: (0218) 386 8959 maichaulodge.com

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108 novotelhalong.com.vn

TAM COC GARDEN RESORT Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249 2118 contact@tamcocgarden. com tamcocgarden.com Surrounded by rice fields and spectacular karsts, Tam Coc Garden is a haven of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury.

Spacious rooms with rustic and chic décor, a pool with breathtaking views, a beautiful garden, and panoramic views over the fields and mountains. The perfect place to relax.

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HANOI - INTERNATIONAL

plimentary Wi-Fi.

CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL

HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI

$$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel. com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women.

Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.

The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and com-

20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396 hanoi.hgi.com With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller.

HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500 hanoi.hilton.com Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fullyequipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental. com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.

Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake.

Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi.com From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville.com

The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi. com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HOTEL

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown.

In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool

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AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/ vn

CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com

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KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines. com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerair.com

VIETJETAIR www.vietjetair.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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Want to add more information to your listing? Get in touch and let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.

The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique.

Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including four suites.

HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC - INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

DUXTON HOTEL

$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.

limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

PARK HYATT

$$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt.

The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.

The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

REX HOTEL

$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777 hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and

53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

RIVERSIDE HOTEL

$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417 riversidehotelsg.com This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON

a live music venue on the same floor.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - DELUXE CONTINENTAL

$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and

$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5517 majesticsaigon.com.vn

NORFOLK HOTEL

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE

$$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels.com Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

EQUATORIAL

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS

$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2185 rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now five-star property, boasts designer fashion and a shopping arcade.

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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travel city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel.com

EMM HOTEL 157 Pasteur, Q3 A sleek, contemporary three-star hotel that mixes vintage appeal and modern chic thanks to a subdued palette of white and grey around two ‘pop’ colours: azalea pink and green hot pepper. Part of the Thien Minh Group that includes Victoria Hotels and Buffalo Tours.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel.com.vn

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel.com.vn

HCMC - BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL

$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.

HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An www.anbangbeachretreat. com

CUA DAI

$ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 354 5105 domainedetamhai.com

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 391 4555 life-resorts.com

MERCURE DANANG

$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang.com

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang.com Located on the white sands of Bac My An beach close to both Danang and Hoi An, the welcoming and modern Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for a dynamic escape. Perfect for a family holiday or a romantic beach getaway.

THE NAM HAI

$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive

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swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre– programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT AND SPA Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510) 392 7040 victoriahotels.asia

HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 banyantree.com/en/ lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

LA RESIDENCE

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel.com

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/ destination 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384

junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view.

Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222 sixsenses.com/resorts/ ninh-van-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.

The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton.com/nhatrang

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 382 0999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

$$ Tel: (058) 384 0501 whaleislandresort.com

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 374 3777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN RESORT

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322 blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440 miamuine.com

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222 princessannam.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR

$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY

$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay.com

PEPPER HOUSE

$ Tel: 01678 731560 pepperhouse-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY

$$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135 phong-nha-cave.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or

double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT

$$ Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5999 phongnhalakehouse.com

SAIGON - PHONG NHA

$$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016 sgphongnhahotel@yahoo. com.vn

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged.

Discount rates during rainy season.

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: (077) 399 5895 centarahotelsresorts.com

MANGO BAY

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL

$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales) topasecolodge.com With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows

travel with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

cling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.

VICTORIA SAPA

$$$ Tel: 0203 871522 victoriahotels.asia

VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach.

Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cy-

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao

THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include a 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.

The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI

corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXOTISSIMO 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150 www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours.

Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more wellworn destinations.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful.

BTA customizes leisure and

Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/ vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures.

With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214

www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for.

Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE BEENINASIA.COM www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours.

Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate

travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

EXOTISSIMO 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotissimo.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING SERVICE 12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh, District 1, HCMC Call center: 1900 5454 40 www.en.chudu24.com info.en@chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best prices and reliable service.

If you are looking for great local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.

It has been the #1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

www.cocobeach.net

paradise@cocobeach.net

INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com

Coco Beach Resort

58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, W. Ham Tien Phan Thiet, Vietnam +84-(0)62-3847111 / 2 / 3

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travel

TRAVEL PROMOS

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH

FLY VIETNAM flyvietnam.com

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel: 0904 193308 intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

A slice of luxury at InterContinental Nha Trang

TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure. com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead the way.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

Golf Seaside @ InterContinental Nha Trang nhatrang.intercontinental.com Golf couples: get your clubs out. The InterCon Nha Trang is partnering with Vinpearl Golf Club Nha Trang to get you swinging, with a cushy deluxe room for you to enjoy afterwards based on double occupancy. The Golf Package starts at VND3.7 million++ per person, with a minimum stay of two nights.

Women’s Day @ Novotel Nha Trang novotel-nhatrang.com As the Novotel Nha Trang knows, ladies love seafood. So what better gift to give the women in your

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life than The Square Restaurant’s Women’s Day promo: 50 percent off an already reasonable VND525,000++ seafood buffet?

Answer: nothing in the world.

Pullman Goes Vietnamese! pullman-danang.com Restaurant Epice knows you’ve had enough of the western buffets — for heaven’s sake, you’re in the breadbasket of Southeast Asia! So every Wednesday and Saturday, they’re breaking out the Vietnamese BBQ Buffet — a lavish spread of fresh seafood, pork, beef and chicken, grilled to perfection over lump charcoal.

VND525,000 net gets you the buffet and a glass of wine, beer or

soft drink. Call (051) 1395 8888 to reserve your table.

Van Chai vanchai-vn.com Thanh Hoa, that province just north of Vinh and south of Ninh Binh, is home to one top-end resort — Van Chai. And from Oct. 1 to Dec. 31 this oasis in the middle of all that chaos is offering deals to keep you calm. With rooms going for only VND1.4 nett per night, guests can also take advantage of the 10 percent discount at the property’s restaurant and 20 percent off all treatments at Co Nature Spa. Email sales@vanchai-vn.com for details

Hanoi

RECALLING HANOI // COFFEE CUP // FOOD PROMOS // THE ALCHEMIST // THE THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 131

hanoi

old quarter

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

BARS & CLUBS CHEEKY QUARTER

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01679 647254 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

DRAGONFLY

DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 4926 2177 11am to late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

FATCAT BAR

DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211 linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi.

The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.

Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.

FUNKY BUDDHA

ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3292 7614 8pm to late

HAIR OF THE DOG

LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0947 893232 10am to late

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1943 3pm to late

IRISH WOLFHOUND

IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821 irishwolfhoundpub.com 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor.

Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA BOMBA LATINA

LATIN BAR 46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0917 245155

LE PUB

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL RESTOBAR 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 2104 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104

MOJITO BAR

CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR 19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/mojito.bar. lounge Decked out in wooden pan-

132 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

elling and bare brick, this tastefully designed watering whole in the Old Quarter is known for its prize-winning bartender and excellent cocktails

verted, colonial-era villa, the concept of the third Joma is the same as at its two other cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter, and a great selection of sandwiches, bagels, salads, cakes, ice-cream and tea.

smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

THE CART

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087 Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu.

SPY BAR

HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802

TEMPLE BAR

NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6675 7908

TET BAR

LATE-NIGHT BAR 2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3050

THE SPOT

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1874 8am to midnight

CAFES CAFE PHO CO

COFFEE SHOP WITH A VIEW Back of 11 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8153

JOMA

INTERNATIONAL CAFE 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem joma.biz Housed in a two-storey con-

COFFEE/BAKERY 222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

(04) 3825 6334 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don’t let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOO SKATESHOP

SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147 Booskateshop.com

CONTRABAND

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month

with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2419 ateliervietnam.com The downtown store of this well-known chic boutique.

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. Offers both ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards.

Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

THREE TREES

JEWELLERY 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

CRAFTS & FURNITURE MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and

hanoi Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645 metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards.

Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO 12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327 cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar.

Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3993 1399 10am to 10.30pm A slither of a joint serving up the same fare that the lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9916 greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm

GREEN TANGERINE

FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639 10am to midnight

LITTLE INDIA

INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1859 littleindianhn@gmail.com

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 9052 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce.

Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-

floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.

LITTLE HANOI

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 8333 7.30am to 11pm

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

MILLENIUM

PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

NAMASTE HANOI

PAN-INDIAN 46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery.

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and min-

iature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout.

Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

etarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

THE LOFT STOP CAFÉ PROVECHO

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 223966 The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1979 southgatehanoi.com

THE KAFE

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE 18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245 thekafe.vn Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner.

Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

THE MOOSE AND ROO

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT 42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.

Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers.

Clever changing imagery on the walls.

TAMARIND

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat. Features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has Asian favourites like veg-

FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 8am to 11pm

SPICE

CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580

TANDOOR

PAN-INDIAN 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 5359 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine.

Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAFÉ

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253

FITNESS & YOGA STUDIO FIVE

YOGA & WELLNESS 5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515 http://studio5.vn facebook.com/yogastudio5 6am to 8pm An international and professional Yoga Studio providing more than 20 different yoga styles such as: Hatha Yoga, Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga, Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with infrared heater), Power Yoga and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes per day. Bring harmony back into your life — Studio Five is the perfect place to reconnect your mind with your body.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR BACCHUS CORNER

WINE RETAILER 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www. fivimart.com.vn

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

INTIMEX 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 133

RECALLING HANOI PART SIX

L

andscape is entangled with history and people’s lives. No matter how young we are or what social position we have, we all have stories to tell.

The book I am working on, Recalling Hanoi, is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry weaved out of portraits, people’s stories

and the urban landscape that hosts them.

I ask people living in the city to tell me about a place in Hanoi that holds memories. It can be about anything — a personal story intertwined with history; a great event; everyday little stories that our lives are made of. These stories, along with the photographs of the storyteller and the

location provide depth.

Through this collection I am attempting to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait of this city through its collective memory.

The hope is that the audience will connect to other people’s lives and also to their own memories in an attempt to understand this beautiful city.

doing that, so she just stood there silently looking out across the lake. After almost two hours of waiting, she called him for what seemed like the hundredth time, then ran off angrily. We were completely perplexed by these events.

The following day, a young couple turned up and the boy explained the previous day’s events. He had recognised his mum from a distance and had rowed the boat in the other direction. He had asked someone on another boat to give him a hand by returning his boat so that

he and his girlfriend could escape on the other side of the lake. After having taken his girlfriend back, he had gone home and had finally answered the call from his mother.

“Today is a school day so my mum won’t come to check,” he said, laughing, and off they went again on the boat.

Watching them, we didn’t really know what to do — all we can do is to protect people from danger here on the lake and to be honest, sometimes love is crazy and beautifully guilty like that.

Ms Thu Sons and lovers Location: Truc Bach Lake It was a summer’s evening. I was selling tickets and we had so many young customers that night. Suddenly a lady appeared who seemed to be looking for something. After a while she came to ask me if her son was boating on the lake. I had no idea, so she explained that she was unhappy with him meeting his girlfriend in places like this when they were only high school students. His motorbike was in the car park nearby, so she wanted to rent a boat to find him on the lake. I could not let her disturb the other customers by

hanoi

BY JULIE VOLA

Son Lam Living a Dream Location: The stadium at the University of Foreign Languages It might be my bad luck to have been born disabled, but I have never felt sorry for myself. Instead, I had a marvellous dream.

I loved football and football players from England — ‘the land of fog’, or so I was told. My own difficulty prevented me from running after the ball with all my body and soul like those great players, so I decided that I could ‘run’ with them from backstage instead — as a football commentator.

My dream meant I was interested in studying foreign languages, starting with English and then later Japanese. In the

afternoon, I used to walk with my crutches to the stadium in the University of Foreign Languages, to watch my friends playing and screaming their hearts out on the pitch. I desperately wanted to play with them, too but I could not, so I used my crutch to ‘kick’ the ball instead — just to make myself feel less idle. A few players saw me and came to talk to me. We soon became friends. After that we played football together every afternoon in the campus of our university, passing the ball between foot and crutch.

It’s been six years since I left the university that I loved. Yet my dream has not come true. I am now working at a football newspaper office and more importantly, I am a motivational speaker.

In all my seminars, I never forget to mention my friends and the very first place that nurtured my dreams: The University of Foreign Languages.

This is the sixth excerpt from Julie Vola’s work, Recalling Hanoi. The work is presently being serialised in Word. For more information email juls.vola@gmail.com

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 135

hanoi

COFFEE CUP CAFÉ NHA SAN

I

n Hanoi, when a place is good, word spreads fast. For a couple of weeks, I’d been hearing from Vietnamese friends about a new art space-turnedcafé that had opened in the outlying ward of Vinh Phuc. The café, supposedly one of Hanoi’s best kept secrets, was notoriously difficult to find.

Of course, the prospect of an adventure only made it sound more appealing.

As you pull off the main street of Duong Buoi into Alley 462, you’ll quickly find yourself weaving through the kind of charming alleyways that Hanoi is famous for. The neighbourhood itself is also worth a browse, offering visitors a glimpse of the old Hanoi, littered with old yellow apartment blocks and lively public squares.

The café is housed in a traditional Muong ethnic minority house on stilts, transported from the mountains of Hoa Binh Province to the capital in 1993. Artists Nguyen Manh Duc and Tran Luong founded it as the Nha San Collective’s studio in 1998, creating Vietnam’s first experimental art space,

136 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Julie Vola

which has given birth to the avant-garde careers of artists like Nguyen Minh Thanh and Truong Tan. While the art space itself was shut down in 2010, the house has now been turned into a café and plays host to events from the underground art scene.

Access to Inspiration As you walk through coloured drapes into the café’s calming open-air layout, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time. The furniture itself is from Vietnam’s Subsidy Era, while everything from empty mortar shells, transistor radios, water canisters and antique medals line the shelves in an ode to the country’s wartime history.

The menus have been enscribed onto worn Russian volumes of books, in between pages of Cyrillic code. In some parts of the cafe, tables have been replaced with old green war chests that were used to transport weapons during the war. A restored Honda 67 and a rusty Thong Nhat bicycle also make

for interesting showpieces on the café’s ground floor.

Drink prices start at VND20,000 and include the typical selection of smoothies, coffee, juices and local brews. We recommend trying the Vietnamese iced coffee with coconut milk (VND25,000) and the mango smoothie (VND45,000).

For an extra VND15,000 visitors can also share a plate of sunflower seeds or some curiously-named ‘field rations’.

Lounge seating on the upper levels allows visitors to while away the hours as they listen to Vietnamese covers of classics like Ave Maria. Creative types may find this a useful place to find inspiration among the thousands of historical artefacts.

This place hasn’t been set up to make millions — and in some part that shows.

But we expect its rustic authenticity and charming interiors will score a place in the hearts of many. — David Mann Café Nha San is at Alley 462, Duong Buoi, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. For more info, go to cafenhasan.com

hanoi HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)

hoan kiem

THEATRE GROUP hitshanoi.com

L’ESPACE

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT

PARIS DELI

Bà i

Triệu

Hàng

Hu ế

Phan

Bà

Chu Trin h

Sứ

Q uá n Sứ

Đinh Ti ên H o à n g

Hưng

Phùng

Hà n g G à

Hàng Điếu

Hưng Phùng

Quán Nguy ễn Du

Trần Hưn gĐ ạo

Lê Văn H u ư

h Hàn T

uyên

MODEL CLUB

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung 8pm to late

PHUC TAN

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem

RELAX BAR

HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem

ROOFTOP

SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901 8am to midnight

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

ZONE 17

CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger cafécum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

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FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 Hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am La Fée Verte (or the ‘Green Fairy’) is a metaphor for the decadence of another age, an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The signature bar of the Hotel de l’Opéra Hanoi where, just as in Paris at the dawn of the 20th century, the making of an evening drink a lavish event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge atmosphere, great music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine to bring a genuine sense of occasion to after-dark in the capital.

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CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/bar84hanoi Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

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WILD WEST THEME BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822

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HOAN KIEM DISTRICT

BAMBOO BAR 17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem The first bar in what will eventually (hopefully) be a

zone dedicated to bars and restaurants. A pool table, a square bar in the middle of the room and a barbecue until the early hours — there’s quite an atmosphere in this pleasant watering hole.

CAFES CIAO CAFÉ

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

TWITTER BEANS COFFEE 45B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760 twitterbeanscoffee.com

CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE

ARTS CINEMA 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES AMERICAN CLUB

EVENT SPACE 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace.com

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar)

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach.

In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down.

The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

CAFÉ LAUTREC

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare.

Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contem-

porary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.

Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

STEAKHOUSE / GRILL 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

LA BADIANE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night.

A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.

Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.

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hanoi SATINE

FOOD PROMOS

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414 hoteldelopera.com

WRAP & ROLL

PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH

5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR CITIMART

SUPERMARKET Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

DA LOC

WINE RETAILER 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Daloc.vn

FIVIMART

SUPERMARKET 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

HANOI GOURMET

DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet.com The long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

INTIMEX

VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226

WESTERN CANNED FOODS

GROCERY STORE 17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

Oktoberfest at the Daewoo

Perfect for Freelancers For just VND70,000 a day, Manzi Art Space is offering up the following deal for freelancers: — A working table — Freeflow of tea and coffee all day — Free WiFi — Pop in and out whenever you want The deal runs from 7.30am to 5pm daily.

Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

Keep the Flame Alive On Women’s Day, Monday Oct. 20, French-Vietnamese restaurant Green Tangerine is offering a promotion for all women.

Reserve a table for lunch or dinner at the restaurant and all ladies will receive a glass of champagne.

Green Tangerine is at 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. For reservations call (04) 3825 1286 and for additional special arrangements call Vincent on 0988 168468

That German Theme Oktoberfest starts early at the Daewoo this year, with a Germanthemed buffet combined with seafood, premium meat and of course, the most important ingredients, unlimited German beer and soft drinks.

The buffet runs every evening

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from Oct. 10 to Oct. 12 and costs VND850,000 per adult and VND500,000 per child.

For information and reservations call (04) 3831 5000 ext. 3039. The Daewoo is at 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

Steamboat Weekends Just in time for the cooler weather of the Hanoi Autumn, El Oriental at The Melia is putting on a special steamboat menu every Friday and Saturday from 5.30pm to 10pm.

Every steamboat is for two people and there are three options — classic (VND480,000++), mixed (VND 550,000++) and premium seafood VND 750,000++).

For more information and reservations, please contact: (04) 3934 3343 ext. 7507. The Melia is at 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Treat Her Well, Treat Her Special The Sheraton knows how to celebrate Vietnamese Women's day, and this year on Oct. 20 besides their special buffet at Oven D’or, ladies are being showered with a complimentary cocktail and a special gift.

Diners can either order a la carte or go for the buffet — VND1,300,000++ / person for lunch or dinner. If you want to raise the bar a bit, then head to

Hemispheres Restaurant. The VND1,600,000++ deal includes a freeflow of wine.

The Sheraton is at K5 Nghi Tam, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000

A View from Above Besides their 5pm to 8pm sunset happy hour deals — get half-price refills from your second glass onwards, when ordering the same kind — the Summit Lounge is no stooge when it comes to putting on the events and letting the booze flow.

On Martini Mondays, buy two of the bar’s Martini cocktails and get your third offering free of charge.

Even better, for VND490,000++ / person get a two-hour freeflow.

On Tuesdays, selected wine goes for VND100,000++ a glass and comes together with free finger food. Wednesdays are set aside for whiskey — a tasting flight of three glasses costs VND260,000++.

Ladies’ Night — or more aptly, Stilleto Night — is on Thursday.

Every lady with heels higher than 8cm will get a discount twice as much as the height of her heels.

And the live band will play every Thursday and Friday from 9pm to 11pm.

Summit Lounge is on the top floor of the Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

hanoi

LUNO D’AUTUNNO

highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

tay ho

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES

CLASSIC ITALIAN 27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.

Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

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ARTS WORK ROOM FOUR

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho workrmfour@gmail.com workrmfour.tumblr.com A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

BARS & CLUBS 88 LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029. 88group.vn 5pm to late A wine bar with a difference, this addition to the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170

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hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@ hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

HOUSE OF SON TINH

LIQUOR LOUNGE 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377 sontinh.com 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

MADAKE

CONTEMPORARY RESTOBAR 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665 or 0984 002181

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With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar and restaurant is ideal for those seeking a fusion of Western and Eastern cuisine. Famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, the ambient Asian-style décor, weekend DJ nights and general atmosphere makes Madake a popular West Lake go-to joint.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho Open daily from 2pm.

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favorites. Nonsmoking, unpretentious, dog-friendly.

TAY TAP

SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

COFFEE/BAKERY 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KUB CAFE

BIKING CAFE so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho kub.vn Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole bringing that’s become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.

Does good on-the-table bia hoi and runs biking events.

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CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888 hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list.

Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.

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PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe.

Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm

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those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.

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CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm

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LE BEAULIEU

MEET-UP SPOT 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917 4pm to late Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For

BOOK SHOPS BOOKWORM TOO

NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre.

With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean.com 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

LA GRACE

ART CAFE & GALLERY 8B/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 666736 lagrace.com.vn 7.15am to 10pm Located on a peaceful street named after the famous painter, To Ngoc Van, La Grace is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: drinks, food, arts and sometimes live music. Clean, comfortable and friendly, the venue has a nice selection of juices and smoothies and a Vietnamese-cum-Japanese food menu put together using organic vegetables. Set lunches cost VND150,000, and the café also has strong WiFi as well as separate nonsmoking and smoking areas.

SAINT HONORE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-

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hanoi

THE ALCHEMIST ONE LIFE TO LIVE

“Y

ou only live once.” These were the parting words of a friend as we ended a conversation and headed our separate ways. As I continued on my path, I mulled over his sentiment. Do we really only live once?

Many people, cultures and religions believe in reincarnation — the rebirth of a soul after the death of the physical body.

This belief in reincarnation is a tenet not held by the majority of the world’s population; however, according to some researchers, it is a belief system that is growing.

Fact of Lives In the spiritual realm, reincarnation is accepted as fact and it is from this standpoint I base this article. The article is not an argument for the existence of reincarnation — the empirical evidence is lacking to scientifically confirm it — however there have been some interesting studies that warrant a closer look at the topic.

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Among the many attempts to prove the reality of reincarnation, Dr. Ian Stevenson’s research comes to the forefront. Dr. Stevenson conducted more than 2,500 case studies of children who supposedly remembered past lives. He discovered evidence suggesting that memories and physical injuries can be transferred from one lifetime to another.

Although not a case for reincarnation per se, in August 2014 German doctors announced their clinical findings of “some form of life after death”. If ‘life’ continues after the death of the physical body, how does it evolve and why not manifest in another physical body and continue the lessons a previous physical life on Earth has to offer?

We’re the Lucky Ones Earth is known as the great teaching ground of the cosmos and is often referred to as ‘The School of Hard Knocks’. We humans incarnated here on Earth at this time are apparently in an

BY KAREN GAY

envious position according to spiritual teachers. They claim a great number of souls would eagerly take up an opportunity to experience life on Earth, even for a brief moment.

If we keep in mind that we are spiritual beings having a human experience, it is easier to see the world from a greater perspective. Opportunities for growth seem to spawn from every one of life’s situations. And although some of the challenges life throws at us can seem insurmountable, we are encouraged to turn inward to our soul’s strength and guidance, and to a higher power that lights the way forward. In so doing we draw on our soul’s infinite wisdom and reap the benefits of its immeasurable experiences. Perhaps this is the intent of reincarnation.

Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker. com

smoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ

ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection.com 8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an oldfashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.

The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CAFÉ / TAPAS BAR 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment.

Eclectic? Not a chance!

CLOTHING GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a madeto-measure service are available at no extra cost.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam.com

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts.

This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

COOKING CLASSES HIDDEN HANOI

COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but also rents and fixes bicycles. To add to the eclectic, community spirit they also organise bicycle tours, run yoga sessions, hold music concerts in their upstairs cafe area and run a great menu of Spanish tapas served up, if you so wish, with gin & tonic.

Quite a mix!

EAT AL FRESCO’S

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 5322 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301

DA PAOLO

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BETTERWORLD

GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS 8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.

LA CASA

CONTEMPORARY DESIGN Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084 lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development nonprofit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories.

Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired.

Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS DON’S TAY HO

BICYCLE RENTALS 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CYCLING COLLECTIVE 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn

CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

DALUVA

FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake.

This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

DON’S TAY HO

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com Monday to Friday, 10am to late.

Weekends 8am to late This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991

elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.

Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

HALIA HANOI

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121 thehalia.com Daily 11am to 11pm A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space.

The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer.

Has an extensive wine list.

HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our

IL FARO

ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6327 1142 Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel, this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned by the same people behind Mediterraneo serves up an assortment of French, Spanish and Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed yet Italianinfluenced atmosphere.

INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN 10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668 indiapalacehn@vnn.vn Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant envi-

hanoi

THE THERAPIST

This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, deals with a question of trauma and healing Dear Douglas, A housemate, who is also a friend of mine, witnessed a gruesome motorbike accident, where the passenger was thrown into a pole and then run over by another motorbike.

She died at the scene. Other people were also hurt. He is definitely freaked out. He is having trouble sleeping and skipped work yesterday. His friends are worried about him and not sure how to help him. Should he see a psychologist? How can we convince him to go?

— Worried Friends Friends, He is fortunate that he has friends who are paying attention and concerned for him.

Yes, he has been traumatised, and will undoubtedly need to work through the ways that this event has affected him.

Often the first response is to be flooded with images and details of the event.

He may have wanted to talk about it again and again. Other times, a person is overwhelmed and seems to shut down any emotional response and becomes distant and disconnected. Shock is a kind of internal protection device that keeps someone from being overwhelmed. Eventually, it is likely that he will notice that he is thinking and feeling differently. Traumas are events

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that happen in life, that suddenly make us aware of how thin the veil is between safety and catastrophe. That shocking awareness changes how safe we feel doing normal things.

He has just witnessed an event that shows how much life can change in a split second.

It is a common response to feel a hypervigilance and to feel jumpy or nervous for a while. It can also affect how a person feels about the meaningfulness of their lives and their relationships. It can influence a person to question everything about their life, as if through a different lens.

It can be very helpful for a person to have a special time and place (therapy) to bring these thoughts and feelings to light.

Friends can help, but often find it difficult to sustain the kind of support a person might need. Many people repress the trauma — meaning they go on with life as if nothing has happened. It generally shows up later in life as Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder.

The effects of true trauma will not go away by ignoring them. It is better when a person can face these things early on and go through a process that re-stabilises them and allows them to understand the realities of the healing process.

People seem to know that when we are grieving the loss of a loved one, we have

special permission to live life differently, to allow for sadness and other emotions to come and go. Some cultures have ways to honour that period of time, by wearing black or with rituals that honour the grieving process. It seems unfortunate that we don’t seem to have the same understanding for those who have been traumatised by something else. Often, a person feels that they have to continue to function at the same level and that they cannot really tell others about what they are going through. For some traumas, like rape, it is particularly difficult because it is so personal that it feels like increasing the violation for too many other people to know.

Show your friend this letter or offer to go with him to a psychologist the first time.

Stay close and responsive to him — but not to a point where you burn yourself out with his needs and then feel the need to get away from him. Understand that it has an effect on you, too. Friends can often support best as a group.

I wish you wellness and healing, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

ronment from the team behind Tandoor.

J.A.F.A.

INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 30 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Set inside a newly renovated house with a large courtyard, Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks.

R&R TAVERN

RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6295 8215 Now on its third location, this watering hole still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course, some quality live rock music. Its upstairs area is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly shows and events, while the downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly community environment.

SAINT HONORE

BOULANGERIE / BISTRO 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore.com.vn 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da

THE PIE SHOP

TAKEAWAY PIES 2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena

Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 1507 thepieshophanoi@gmail.com Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style savoury pies and rolls. Available in three convenient sizes (mini, regular and large). Enjoy them hot as a takeaway, or frozen to keep for later.

THE SUSHI CLUB

CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE 10A Quang An (ngo 27 Xuan Dieu), Tay Ho. Tel: 0934 544263 thesushiclub.info Featuring a delicious combination of contemporary Japanese dishes as well as other traditional Japanese favorites, The Sushi Club combines great cuisine with charming views over West Lake.

The ambience is warm and comfortable making it the perfect place for dating, business dinners, meeting friends and family gatherings. Quiet private rooms are available.

EXPAT SERVIES MAID IN VIETNAM

HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3112 maidinvietnam.com Offering a licensed hire service for trained domestic and office housemaids, cooks and nannies.

Courses include health checks, housekeeping, safety, basic 1st Aid, courses for external maids and household management for Vietnamese wives of foreigners.

FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS

TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

HANOI CLUB

COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub.com

HANOI OIS hanoinetball@gmail.com Hanoi Ois Netball Club is a mixed ability, mixed gender club for adults wanting to enjoy team sport while also improving fitness and developing skills. The club plays every Tuesday from 6pm to 7pm at UNIS. Email for more information

VIETCLIMB

CLIMBING CENTRE 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS

ANNAM GOURMET

GROCERIES / DELI First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

KITCHEN ART

KITCHENWARE 38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart.vn Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.

L'S PLACE

GROCERY SHOP 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

NATURALLY VIETNAM

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam.com Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for expats and Vietnamese.

PUNTO ITALIA

COFFEE MACHINES 62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510 puntoitalia.asia

Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

THE OASIS

ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case.

Free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

HOLISTIC HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER karen@a-roamingbodyworker. com a-roamingbodyworker.com Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available.

MEDICAL & DENTAL INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC

MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style checkups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam.

The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

hanoi

ba dinh

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL FOODSHOP 45

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BARS & NIGHTCLUBS BARBETTA

ARTSY BAR & CAFE 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

SUMMIT LOUNGE

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR 20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 ext. 5314 4pm to Midnight Sunday to Wednesday, 4pm to 2am Thursday to Saturday

ALTERNATIVE DANCE CLUB 18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh facebook.com/vaulthanoi The work of Mao, the enigmatic personality behind Mao’s Red Lounge and The

BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM

BOOK SHOP 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre.

With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES CAFÉ GOETHE

ARTS CAFÉ 56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 7395

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 2247 0602 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this

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quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh (Next to the Flag Tower) Tel: (04) 3823 3339 highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

MANZI

ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook.com/manzihanoi A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES GOETHE INSTITUT

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh

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Coach House, this underground homage to nighttime decadence sits in the gap between The Old Quarter and West Lake, bringing in a range of DJs and nightly entertainment. A great addition to the scene.

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BA DINH DISTRICT

Trần Nhân Tông

Tel: (04) 3734 2251 goethe.de/hanoi

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE

COOKING CENTRE 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

EAT

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com Open for over a decade, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the Hanoi's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, Passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.

Best washed down with red wine or a Caipirinha or five.

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.

Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 10am to midnight

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3942 4448 hoasuaschool.com

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space.

It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

MATCHBOX

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 3098 11am to 11pm

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regard-

ed as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.

Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus.

Reservations recommended.

MING PALACE

PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

THE BISTRO

FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 4782 thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

FITNESS & YOGA N SHAPE FITNESS

MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness.vn

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

MEDICAL 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice. com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats.

Also a 24-hour emergency service.

hanoi Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec.com

elsewhere

A DONG PHOTO CO

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION

RECREATION KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL

BARS & CLUBS CAMA ATK

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

CZECH MICROBREWERY 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088

VUVUZELA

MODERN BEER HALL 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung

CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm

FRENCH GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 facebook.com/frenchgrill Every day 6pm to 11pm With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3796 2647 10am to midnight

CAFES KOTO ON VAN MIEU

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

HAM HANH

ARTSY CAFE 170 Doi Can, Dong Da The physical representation of arts, film and music collective, The Onion Cellar, this cafe with multiple areas is as left field as the people who created it.

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space.

It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday

SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi.vn

11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

rant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

WILD LOTUS

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restau-

ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK

ALPHA LAPTOP 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418

FUONG MAY ANH 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568

NGUYEN CAU

ICE SKATING Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936 469799 royalcity.com.vn

1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem

X-FACTORY LASER TAG

HI-TECH USA

LASER TAG 77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106 x-factory-vn.com

DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261

PICO PLAZA 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

MEDICAL & DENTAL POTS ‘N PANS

SWIMMING POOL Landmark 72 Tower, Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3772 3801 landmark72.com

128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732

FRENCH HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh.com.vn

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983 011081

VIETSAD 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771

SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896

FOUR SEASONS 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN

EAT ASAHI SUSHI

ELECTRONICS

LA VERTICALE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi.com

Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

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hanoi

MEDICAL BUFF INFLUENZA VACCINATION FAQS

W

ith this month marking the beginning of flu season — which lasts until March — people are more susceptible to getting the flu and falling ill for up to 12 days. Getting a flu vaccination can easily prevent this. However, many people are misled by the basic facts of influenza — the FAQ below should shed some light.

1) Is flu vaccination only for the elderly?

No. The flu vaccine is highly recommended for those at most risk — children, elderly and those with chronic medical conditions like chronic heart, kidney, diabetes and lung conditions.

The flu may exacerbate these conditions.

However, even healthy people can get very sick from the flu and spread it to others. Hence the recommendation is to vaccinate all age groups.

2) Do children need to be vaccinated?

Yes, children are at a higher risk of suffering, even more so for those under five years and especially under 2 years. The vaccine is not recommended for children under six months.

3) Could you die from having the flu?

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Yes. The mortality varies from year to year and from country to country. For example in the US there were 12,000 deaths during the 2009 to 2010 flu season. The highest mortality worldwide occurs in Southeast Asia and Africa.

4) If I’m pregnant can I still get a flu vaccination?

Flu is more likely to cause severe illness in pregnant women than in women who are not pregnant. Changes in the immune system, heart and lungs during pregnancy make pregnant women more prone to severe illness from the flu, including hospitalisation and even death. Pregnant woman with flu also have a greater chance for serious problems with their unborn baby, including premature labour and delivery. Flu shots will protect pregnant women, their unborn babies and even protect the baby after birth. The flu shot is safe — and strongly recommended — for pregnant women.

5) What are the side effects of flu vaccination?

The viruses in the flu vaccine are dead — inactivated — so you cannot get the flu from a flu shot. Some minor side effects that could occur are: soreness, redness or swelling where the shot was given; a lowgrad fever; aches and pains.

BY DR. BRIAN MCNAULL

6) I was vaccinated last year. Do I need to be vaccinated again this year?

A flu vaccine is needed every year because flu viruses are constantly changing. It’s not unusual for new flu viruses to appear each year. The flu vaccine is updated annually to keep up with the flu viruses as they change. Also, multiple studies have shown that the body’s immunity to flu viruses declines over time.

7) What is the price of the flu vaccine?

At Family Medical Practice, the price is VND440,000 net. The vaccination itself only takes a few seconds. If you get the flu you could be sick for up to 12 days.

On average most people who fall sick take three to five days off work. So take a few seconds out of your day to get yourself and those you care about protected. *Please note, that according to the Ministry of Health, a doctor’s approval is now required before having a flu vaccination Dr. Brian McNaull is Medical Director at Family Medical Practice, which is located in Vietnam’s major cities. For information or assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511) 3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on vietnammedicalpractice.com

hanoi

business

BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS BUSINESS GROUPS

CORPORATE SERVICES

ICHAM

ENDO

Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.

79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3783 2085 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center, Ground Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 4772 0833 sbav-hanoi.org

INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS) H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435 bvisvietnam.com

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system.

All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743 0360 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243 C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri New Urban, Tu Liem District, Tel: +84 4 3794 0209 kinderworld.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SIS) 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036 www,kinderworld.net/sis SIS provides international

education for students from Primary up to University Foundation Programme. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers.

Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC

rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and long-term courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)

CIMIGO

Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551 unishanoi.org

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 2051 Apollo.edu.vn Established in 1994, Apollo offers high-quality and costeffective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres.

BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3728 1922 britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM 62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3927 3399 languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING

MARKET RESEARCH 142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com cimigolive.com

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO Inland Customs Deport Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882 asiantigergroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption ti family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3762 3805 ghmsglobal.com

RMIT Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 1460

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in

the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. For more information email Vietnam@ santaferelo.com.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0912 239085 atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

FRASER SUITES HANOI 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 8877 Located in the West Lake area, Fraser Suites Hanoi consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four bedrooms, which meet any lifestyle. With a calming and warm interior feel, each apartment features all the latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides peace of mind.

SEDONA SUITES No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 0888 sedonahotels.com.sg

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI 49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3934 2342 somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central location.

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hanoi

BOOK BUFF

This month Bookworm’s Truong does an informal census of some young readers’ favourite books

E

ssayist and newspaper columnist Elizabeth Farrelly recently wrote a piece about how university libraries in rich countries are getting rid of books in their catalogues and becoming increasingly bookless. She observed, too, that public libraries are either disappearing or becoming internet centres. She wondered if future historians will see ours as a time of biblio-plague, when the world was swept by a strange libriform ebola that causes institutions to haemorrhage books before dying horribly from their lack.

But she concludes her lamentation with an optimistic observation. She says that today’s kids, who could be the first bookless generation since Gutenberg, tell her that they like books. The touch, the texture, the smell, the fact. They’re bored with screen-everythings. This, she intimates, could be why the children’s book market is the least e-dominated sector… and that this is a small flame of hope flickering over the e-tide.

So in a mood of optimism for the future of actual books, we asked a group of kids who frequently visit the Bookworm to tell us about their favourite stories on our shelves.

Detective Mice and a Pig Named Sausage One precocious pre-school critic, who looks as though he’s going to be a fan of crime fiction when he grows up, is mad about Hermelin the Detective Mouse by Mini Grey. In this illustrated book, the detective mouse decides to find all the lost items on

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a communal notice board where he lives.

Our critic declared that he was not at all uncomfortable with the darker aspects of the plots.

Our seven-year-old critic is completely oinkers about The Unbelievable Top Secret Diary of Pig by Emer Stamp. It’s written in the Wimpy Kid format that attracts kids, especially boys, in a particular age frame.

It’s a very funny story about a pig who suddenly latches onto why the friendly farmer is so affectionate towards him and calls him loveable nicknames like Sausage.

When the penny drops the pig has to recruit all the farmyard help he can muster, even from those he’s previously made enemies of, like the evil chickens and silly sheep.

The critic said that her parents also think that the book is hilarious.

The Heavier Stuff Two 11-year-old Bookworm regulars are totally infatuated with Scarlet Ibis by Gill Lewis. It’s a very heartbreaking story about a 12-year-old girl named Scarlet Ibis McKenzie who lives high up in a tower block of flats in a single-parent family. The mother suffers from severe depression, and Scarlett has to take care of the flat, her mother and her eight-year-old half-brother Red, who is autistic and can only be calmed down by birds and feathers. The children’s life together is shattered when officialdom finds out about them after an accident and they are separated. Scarlet goes to a foster home and the boy into special institutionalized care. It’s a book, says our critics, that makes you feel as though you are in the middle of events with Scarlett

and Red. It’s as though you are fighting their battles and feeling their pain.

If Scarlett Ibis makes some helicopter parents a bit iffy, then More Than This by Patrick Ness is a definite no-go zone. The book’s opening sentence is likely to get young adult readers hooked and helicopter moms and dads palpitating: “Here is the boy, drowning.”

Seth, the teenage protagonist who tries to commit suicide by walking into the sea, has a number of things weighing him down. The biggie is that his mother hates the fact that he is gay, and blames him for a terrible thing that happened to his little brother.

Successful young adult author John Green has this to say: “Books are often described as ‘mind-blowing’, but this is one of the few books in which, while reading it, I have exclaimed aloud, ‘Oh. My. God.’ on multiple occasions… Just read it.”

Digitally savvy YA readers, like our 15-year-old guest book chooser, will have no problems coming to terms with the book’s existentialist aspects. Ness, a twotime Carnegie Medal winner for children’s literature, is controversial because he declares that kids’ books don’t always have to have happy endings. His often don’t — which may be why a lot of young adult readers go for them in a big way.

For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original store on Chau Long, Bookworm have a second, smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in the West Lake area. Located behind the Sheraton, it can be found at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

Ho Chi Minh City

BUSINESS BUFFD // JOB SEARCH // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS // THE EMPTY WOK // A WORLD OF GOOD // FOOD PROMOS // STUDENT EYE // NON-FAMOUS PLACES PHOTO BY GLEN RILEY

HCMC

business

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES / EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS / RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS ACCOUNTING & AUDITING COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND PHIBIOUS DESIGN

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0220 globaleye.com

PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Tmg-group.com

ADVERTISING & MKTG BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6662 bbdoasia.com

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com

DENTSU VIETNAM AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005 Dentsu.com.vn

GREY GROUP 404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933 3493 marketeersvietnam.com

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com

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7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 3377 phibious.com An independent, creative– led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050 purpleasia.com

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Viet-

nam to Australia.

RIVER ORCHID 10th Floor HDTC Building, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 2538 riverorchid.com

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.

TBWA\VIETNAM 4th Floor, Saigon Finance Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com.vn

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7858 Bdg-vietnam.com

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 1481 Concetti.vn

GRANT THORNTON

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL 38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884

28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100 Gt.com.vn

TRACTUS ASIA LTD

INSPIRED IMAGE

XAGE CONSULTANCY

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 Inspiredimage.co.uk

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES 4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 7305 0905 prism.com.vn

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.

HCMC CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon.

For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX 240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn

amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com

management and exclusive venues to make any kind of event a success.

CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com

ENDO 406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6292 2045 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

EVENT MANAGEMENT CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS Tel: 0906 761190 centerpiece-vn.com info@centerpiece-vn.com Centerpiece is an independent event planning company run by expatriates that can plan any event from private parties, to corporate events to weddings.

EVECOO Tel: 0988 297990 evecoo.vn

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD 268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event

EXPAT SERVICES

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665 colliersmn.com/vietnam

CREATION

CHUM’S HOUSE

International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553

HAPPY HOUSE

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7968 cushmanwakefield.vn

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE 12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com

JONES LANG LASALLE 26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968 joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management firm offering specialized real estate services to clients seeking increased value by owning, occupying and investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, they work and collaborate closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to their clients in Vietnam.

Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.

Enquiries via their website are welcome.

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, level 7, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

Savills Vietnam is a leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and other services.

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 thenest-vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE 49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661 baoviet.com.vn

IF CONSULTING SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn

IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable

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HCMC

BUSINESS BUFF SO YOU WANT TO BE A BILLIONAIRE?

BY SHANE DILLON

I

n my experience almost everyone wants to be rich in Vietnam. This is especially true of people who come from very little — money is seen as the gateway to happiness and opportunity. And while I may disagree on whether money buys happiness, it sure does buy a better form of unhappiness. So to make it easy for all the readers out there, I am going to give everyone 10 guaranteed ways to become billionaires; all you have to do is solve one of the following problems.

10) Death Google has hired biophysicist Cynthia Kenyon from the University of California to join its Project Calico anti-aging team. Her experiments have produced a roundworm as old as the equivalent of 80 human years, which looks and acts the equivalent of 40.

Google admits it’s a moonshot, but it’s proved pretty decent at those in the past.

9) Unhackable Passwords According to the recent mass scale hacking events, no-one has a secure password anymore. Hackers have, through brute force, so far been able to break through practically every firewall ever invented.

Many companies are trying to turn smartphones into ‘car keys’ for online applications, while others focus on a type of cryptology known as ‘obfuscation’ — which conceals how programmes operate.

8) Detecting or Predicting Major Weather or Natural Events Natural disasters cost the world billions of dollars every year and the price is only getting higher according to recent reports from the UN. Being able to predict a major event like an earthquake or mega storm in advance to prepare accordingly to minimize damage is worth billions to governments (and investors) all over the world.

7) Cost-Effective Desalination Clean drinking water is still major concern for a large part of the world’s population, and in the future this will be even more of an issue. Droughts are increasingly common in the developing world, as well as in parts of North America and Australia.

The problem is cost; current methods of desalination are far too expensive to scale.

If a solution is not found soon, we will have to rely on conservationists convincing governments to act — which means we have already lost.

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6) A Real Weight Loss Pill The holy grail of pharmaceutical companies the world over; whoever gets this right is going to be rolling in the sweet cash for many years to come. Recent research in the US has produced a pill that in rats could make them “resistant to obesity”, staying thin despite a high-fat diet without exercise. They even had normal blood pressure, and showed no increased risk of heart disease or diabetes. Sign me up.

5) Super Low-Cost International Payments While I doubt the powers that be would ever let this get off the ground, if someone could accomplish this, there are about 3 billion bank customers a day that would jump ship in a second. Remittances, while not overly burdensome, would be much cheaper if they were sent over a decentralised or distributed network free from bank networks, which require interchange fees.

This, of course, is the problem bitcoin and bitcoin-like technologies are looking to address.

4) Clean Coal A recent article in Bloomberg stated carbon capture and storage “may be more important — though much less publicised — than any renewable-energy technology for decades to come”, since it would allow the world to keep burning its most abundant fuel source. Whoever figures

out how this can be done in a scalable and cost-effective way will make a lot of people happy and themselves filthy rich.

3) Cheap, Scalable Solar Solar power has two issues, cost and scalability. The main way to reduce costs is to have a super-cheap photovoltaic cell, however the tradeoff is inefficiency. The solution may come from a hundred-yearold technology: perovskites. The scientists say they could help cut solar costs by 75 percent, to as low as VND2,000 a kilowatt.

2) Rural Internet Most of the world agrees this has huge potential for creating greater equality in the world. The frontrunner for this is Project Loon from Google. They plan to send renewable-powered balloons to the edge of space to create an internet network in remote parts of the world.

1) Wireless Power This is already pretty close, with top dogs at Apple saying “pursuing greater efficiency in batteries is a trap”. The key is to find ways of squeezing more efficiency out of the devices’ other parts — and capturing power from what’s around you. University of Washington engineers, among others, are at work on harvesting existing television and cellular transmissions and turning them into a power source.

Shane works in Vietnam; he can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn

HCMC medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES VIETNAM

8th Floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.

Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IGLOBALASSIST Tel: 0934 874271 Iglobalassist.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana

Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le Loi, Q1 ten-pac.com An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies in Southeast Asia. A trusted partner for health, employee benefits and life insurance, the team at Tenzing has over 30 years’ experience providing insurance advice.

INTERIOR DESIGN PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND REMODELING Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren Hawk) Thinking about upgrading a bathroom? Perhaps a new colour in the living room?

Maybe even a new wood floor? Professional Painting and Remodeling can help with these and many other projects. Provide international standards of quality as well as professional and timely service at reasonable

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS ILA VIETNAM

PRUDENTIAL 25th F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1660 prudential.com.vn

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM

rates. Call today to schedule a free evaluation.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP 27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0907 ethicalinvestmentgroup. co.uk

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t-wm.com

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market.

Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.

146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3521 8788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L’ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com

MAYER BROWN JSM 17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn

MANAGEMENT TRAINING EMBERS ASIA

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1717 vietnamlaws.com

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com

FRASERS LAW COMPANY Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com

INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com

80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc

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JOB SEARCH BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS

T

alent is the most important, tricky, valuable and invigorating part of every company’s makeup.

Without the right people, a company cannot perform, grow or succeed.

Vietnam’s economy has grown by 5 percent in the first half of 2014, but maintains an unemployment rate of 2 percent. In numbers, there are 1.5 million fresh graduates entering the labour market every year — but 21 percent of university graduates aged 20 to 24 years old are jobless. College graduates have to work as blue-collar workers, and there is great pressure to generate enough job opportunities for them.

The role of HR is becoming more important in matching the right people with the right jobs. Using external recruiters can be an effective way to reach top talents, as part of a broader recruitment programme.

A Good Recruiter Relationship As a prospective employee, are you uncertain what to expect from your recruiter or what you should be doing on your side of the table? An effective relationship should be more than your recruiter sending out resumes (or CVs) and getting you interviews. The best recruiters not only source talent, but act

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as consultants throughout the process by alerting you of important hiring trends based on their years of experience and exposure to a variety of companies.

But building a good relationship is a two-way street and there are actions both you and your recruiters need to take to ensure you’re getting the most out of your partnership. Here are the top five things you should both be doing to ensure your partnership is successful.

Proactive consulting. Recruiters live and breathe the job market, and the good ones constantly give advice on the marketplace’s situation, and feedback from companies about positions of need.

Customised talent solutions.

Finding the right job is more than just matching skills and experience — it is often equally important to find the right cultural fit. As a professional recruiter, they will spend time understanding the company’s environment and your expectations, and suggest the best way forward.

Effective candidate screening. Before sending job candidates to a company, good recruiters will coach the candidate about the organisation and the position they’re interviewing for. Unless the candidate meets agreed upon criteria, they will

BY NICOLA CONNOLLY

not send them to the interview, saving time and increasing trust.

Being responsive. Returning your calls, evaluating job descriptions in a timely manner and arranging interviews should be their top priorities.

Being time-effective. Recruiters shouldn’t waste the time of either candidates or clients, and should always seek feedback after every interview.

As Far As You’re Concerned You should consider their advice carefully. While your recruiter may not always find you the right job and you may not always agree with their suggestions, they are experts in the process. Be open to their ideas about job expectations, or about changing benefits packages. They know what other candidates are looking for and what companies are offering, so their advice can be very valuable.

By being engaged, informed and actively managing the process, you can make the recruiter’s job — finding the right job for you — much easier and more successful.

Nicola Connolly is the general director of Adecco Vietnam and chairwoman of the European Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam

HCMC Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com

TNS VIETNAM 58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6631 Tnsvietnam.vn With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customisation, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES DRAGON IMAGES Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660 dragonimages.asia Dragon Images production studio is a professional team of photographers, stylists. shooting administrators, casting managers and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.

- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions.

Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b.com

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com Helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective public relations campaigns.

Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues / crisis management.

RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26

or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and competitive service suitable for many types of business.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC. Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. www.vieclambank.com info@vieclambank.com VieclamBank is a brand of G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting executive and senior level, providing Vietnamese and Japanese candidates with experience studying abroad

provides tailored relocation services.

5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220 alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also

Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 www.asiantigers-mobility. com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS 2nd Floor Coteccons Office Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 4237 crownrelo.com

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com

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BODY

AND

REAL HELP

TEMPLE

BY PHIL KELLY

A

sia presents its occupants with great opportunities to get fit, lose fat and look great.

The lifestyle is more relaxed, gyms are more affordable and personal training is more within one’s means.

In Vietnam, where the gym scene is booming, there are more and more freelance personal trainers available for hire. But how do you decide who best meet your needs and desires?

The fitness industry is mostly unregulated — especially here in Asia — and with all the misinformation and myths regarding what is best for achieving fat loss, health and wellbeing, the general public is left in complete limbo. If you are thinking of seeking help with your fitness and fat loss desires before the Christmas and New Year period, here are a brief set of guidelines on how to select a trainer, so you can choose wisely and also know what to expect.

The Key Aspects First, you need to consider their qualifications and certification. A qualified personal trainer has an education in physiology, health promotion, athletic training, kinesiology or a similar field. They should be certified by a reputable organisation with a Sports Science Degree, NASM, ACE, Charles Poliquin, CHEK practitioner or similar.

Second, what’s their experience?

Have they honed their skills in a gym or clinical environment, developing practical experience and knowledge under supervision?

In today’s information saturated world it’s harder to choose because the above qualifications don’t actually tell you anything about the true effectiveness of the personal trainer you get. Hence, here are some additional questions you should ask to guarantee you’re getting your money’s worth.

What assessments do they perform?

Assessments should always be completed. It is impossible to properly prescribe exercise if the trainer/ practitioner does not test joint range of motion, posture, strength imbalances, movement patterns, flexibility and so forth. These assessments tell the trainer what exercise and programme is required… without these, it’s guesswork.

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How do they track progress?

What is tracked will vary from client to client, but there should always be a system of tracking the programme and progression.

Monitoring allows exercise, nutrition and lifestyle professionals to track exactly how each client is doing so that we can make adjustments if and when necessary.

How are their training programmes?

There should be no ‘one size fits all’ programmes. You should see a correlation between assessment findings, and a programme that addresses the findings.

What do they think about exercise machines?

Machines are far less effective because they ‘turn on’ fewer muscles and don’t let your body move in the way that nature intended. This increases the chance of injury — especially when you try to use your body in real life.

If a trainer’s programme has more than three exercises based on ‘machines’ like

the leg press, chest press or — especially — any abdominal machine, then be careful!

End results Any trainer that can answer these questions to your satisfaction should be able to help you get results. Personal training is not about ‘beasting’ you in a workout, but assessing your needs and developing a plan to achieve your goals. Your trainer should be able to clearly map-out your journey with them and explain the expected progression involved.

Employing a trainer can exponentially improve your workout effectiveness and efficiency, as they provide educated structures and guidelines. However, if you are not seeing results within four weeks, you need to ask some questions.

Be a conscious customer and you’ll get what you’re paying for.

Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com

SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com

SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279

SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults.

Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149

VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email Vietnam@santaferelo.com for info.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn

rious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES

Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE

7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850 seal.com.vn

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city.

Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.

Pricing depends on size and style.

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08) 3742 5678 enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

LAC VIET TATTOO 608

Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3830 4668 106 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7068 lacviettattoo.com

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1111 cityview.com.vn

SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart.com

SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO

31B Nguyen Du, Q1 saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO GROUP 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat.vn

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI

209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat.com

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxu-

127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

DELIVERY BEN STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare

CHEZ GUIDO Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts

EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

EL GATO NEGRO Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos

HUNGRYPANDA.VN www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

KFC Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

LOTTERIA SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

SCOOZI Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

WILLY WOO’S Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon.com US-style chicken and waffles

VIETNAMMM THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 157

HCMC

downtown

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

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BEER REPUBLIC

MODERN BEER HALL 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 0945 858034 facebook.com/BeerRepublic

BLANCHY’S TASH

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 Blanchystash.com

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202. bootlegsaigon.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

BROMA

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/random moments.

A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town.

Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.

CARMEN

LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7699

CUNHOUSE

LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.vn

GAME ON

SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon.com

HARD ROCK CAFE

LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn

EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2644 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.

LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180 lahabana-saigon.com Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events /

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LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON

FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR 9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0396 lerendezvousdesaigon.com With such a meaningful name - the meeting point - this wine bistro boasts a relaxed, friendly ambience, perfect for unwinding with an after work drink or to enjoy time with friends.

Reasonably priced, has a sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive old and new world wine list.

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EXPAT / SPORTS BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 2853 Subtle lighting, a pleasant ambience, a pool table and darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel of a drinking man's pub. A place to have fun, drink beer or spirits and get in with the party mood. Known for its 15 shooter challenge.

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon.com If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined.

Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

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DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon.com

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District 3

2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

DJ sets.

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ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LUSH

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2496 lush.vn

O’BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon.com This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

PACHARAN

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08)

3825 6024 pacharansaigon.com Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything Spanish. Regular first-floor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

PHATTY’S

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

SAIGON SAIGON

HOTEL MUSIC BAR 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 1923 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

STORM P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp.vn

THE CUBE BAR

HIP RESTOBAR 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798 facebook.com/thecubesaigon A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberi-

an-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

style atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

THE ORIENT

VINO

SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

VASCO’S

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2888 Vascosgroup.com A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.

VELVET

DANCE/HIP HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail. com

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and lounge-

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

VINYL BAR

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon.com A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge

HCMC selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827 wineembassy.com.vn A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

ropean and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.

BACH DANG

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707

BASKIN ROBBINS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR 1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131 baskinrobbins.vn

CASBAH XU

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

ZANZBAR

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375 Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting, international tapas and a laid-back, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the offering at the all-new ZanZBar on the river end of Dong Khoi.

Popular with a businessy, international crowd.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 Auparcsaigon.com Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced Eu-

MIDDLE EASTERN 59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130 This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.

CENTRO

ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 7285 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CREPERIE AND CAFÉ

FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117

Known for it’s fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out café will impress you with its location as much as its food.

FANNY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633 fanny.com.vn

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704 saigongivral.com

GOODY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339

GUANABANA SMOOTHIES

CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830 guanabanasmoothies.com An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.

HÄAGEN-DAZS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

MAGONN THE CAFE 109 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9672 magonn.vn Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything from drinks to bites. Coming with a crowd? The attic is a quaint little spot to fit a cozy gathering.

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495 facebook.com/m2ccafe At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe.com.vn Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

THE PRINT ROOM

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection.

Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

TRUNG NGUYEN

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn

ZEST BISTRO & CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)

3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows.

The mid-range menu offers over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE

LEATHER & JEWELLERY 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

DEBENHAMS

ADULT & CHILDREN’S WEAR Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7592

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

DESIGN & JEWELLERY 35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

CASUAL & EVENING WEAR 85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4004 Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear

fused with Asian designs.

The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags.

Enjoy a cup of coffee at their café after.

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA

BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com 9am to 9pm

L’USINE

LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA

TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

MR & MRS SMITH

FACTORY OUTLET 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet sells a variety of clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam.

All designs are brand new, delivered from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices.

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 159

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COFFEE CUP TOILET KINGDOM

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own a Binh Thanh back alley, the writing was on the wall.

And so the scripture read: “Thy kingdom come.” No wait, it read ‘Kingdom’ — but was preceded by ‘Toilet’?

Yup, urine for some potty humour. That’s par for the course at Toilet Kingdom, where the one room in the coffee shop you usually don’t want to see has taken centre stage. You sit on toilets with Angry Bird cushions, drink out of little potties and bathtubs on glass tables over sinks with glitter and fake trees inside. Little streamers with happy buzzing flies adorn the walls and ceilings. Bathroom mirrors with stray toothbrushes and bottles of shampoo are scattered throughout.

To call this place ‘cute’ seems misdirected, when you consider the subject matter. If you’ve ever been stuck in a bathroom at a party, just imagine the party is in the bathroom. It’s the brainchild of co-owners Quang Le Huu and Phuc Dung Dang Hong, and they didn’t exactly deny that a similarlythemed chain in Taipei called Modern Toilet might have helped with some ideas. But they agreed that Ho Chi Minh City patrons were ready for just such an

160 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Kyle Phanroy

establishment.

“We want to bring Ho Chi Minh City young people a different way to have coffee,” explained manager Quang, adding that a similar café has already been set up in Hanoi.

Showing me around the place, I pointed at one of the little steaming poops on one of the walls. As I cracked up at the sight of it, Quang exclaimed, “It’s sh-t!” with unbridled glee.

A Bit of a Bummer Right down to smoothies named King Toilet (strawberry, raspberry, blueberry and vanilla — VND69,000) and a parfait named Pink Love Toilet (vanilla, strawberry and fresh berries — VND68,000), the drinks are named just as whimsically as the place is decorated.

It’s also pretty family friendly; the only booze on hand seemed to be Bailey’s for your coffee. The Toilet Coffee (iced coffee with vanilla and strawberry — VND58,000) was only remarkable for its toilet-like cup, which is more kitschy than gross once you’ve gotten your head around the place. If anything, the drink itself was a bit of a bummer, so to speak,

given how much time and effort had gone into the décor of the restaurant. My contingent had similar findings; inventive packaging, uninspired contents.

The actual toilets here are surprisingly conventional, save for the toilet paper being suspended from the ceiling. On this particular day the young crowd Quang had talked about was present, along with some tots who seemed to get the biggest kick out of the place.

But is the whole thing a bit too out there for foreigners? Asking for a bowl of ice cream and getting it in a different kind of bowl is a tad much for some people, and looking around to see your friends eating out of commodes is definitely surreal.

“It’s an interesting idea,” says Helen Brook, a 25-year-old visitor from Bradford, England. “It is a bit dubious drinking brown stuff out of a toilet, though.”

It’s up to you to decide in this modern game of thrones, although at the end you might feel pooped. — Harry Hodge Toilet Kingdom is located at 29/2A Duong D2, Ward 25, Binh Thanh, Ho Chi Minh City

HCMC SONG

ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4088 asiasongdesign.com

T&V TAILOR

TAILORS 39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com

VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

COOKING CLASSES SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com

SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 69 Dong Khoi, Q1

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts.org

NHA XINH

HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115 www.nhaxinh.com

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn

EAT

BARBECUE GARDEN

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 barbecuegarden.com

BASILICO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon

BEIRUT

LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2188

BIBI@ALIBI 5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The legendary chef Bibi’s newest creation, a convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.

3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631

AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.

Excellent delivery service.

BLACK CAT

AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.

BLANCHY STREET

JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793

ASHOKA

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4201 bellavitafurniture.com

BOCONCEPT

DANISH FURNITURE 68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7357 boconcept.vn

DIABOLO

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803 9am to 8pm

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant.com Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

EM EM

SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-creations.org

NGUYEN FRERES

NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS 83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1. (08) 3824 7456 ninhkhuong.vn

BAHDJA 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

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HCMC The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city.

All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114

BROTZEIT

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink

BUN CHA HA NOI

BUN CHA 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

CENTRAL PARC BANH MI 7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549 Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule, New Yorkthemed sandwich shop does creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices — think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels. Excellent delivery service.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas.

Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.

Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.

DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

GANESH

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the

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curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn

GOURMET’S DELIGHT

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn

GRILLBAR

AIRCON STREETFOOD 122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901 facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes, typical of the barbecue fare you’d find on the street, and then add in three types of rice and a range of organic products. Close to Ben Thanh Market, this is com binh dan

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE 7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

INAHO

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.com Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

rant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LE BANH MI 12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036

L’OLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

KOH THAI

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restau-

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine.

Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico.

Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON LA BETTOLA

KABIN

LA CUISINE

LITTLE ITALY 84 Ho Tung Mau Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4402 labettolasaigon.com Located in the heart of Saigon, La Bettola is the only restaurant in town managed by two Italian chefs and an Italian waiter. A wood-fired pizza oven, a downstairs bar and a stylish, elegant setting on the second floor are part of the mix. As is the homemade mozzarella, ricotta cheese, ravioli magro, tortelli mushrooms, pappardelle and mascarpone cheese for the tiramisu, which is made fresh every day. Has a great selection of Italian wine.

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, and moules marinières, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.

LE JARDIN

CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent,

cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

LUCCA

TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3691 A contemporary trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine with New York flair in a beautifully designed space with high ceilings. The menu features both traditional antipasti and substantial main courses.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330

OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu backed up by a compact wine list from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PASHA

MAY RESTAURANT 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail.com 7am to late Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com

NHA HANG NGON

VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

OMG!

FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

OSAKA RAMEN

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677 pasha.com.vn Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating.Authentically Turkish cuisine with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

PROPAGANDA

CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO 21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

QUAN BUI 2

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 With its leafy roof garden and chic interior, Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open kitchen.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine

runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

REFLECTIONS

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

SAIGON CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SEOUL HOUSE

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300.

Good for events.

SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

TANDOOR

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Tandoorvietnam.com

TEMPLE CLUB

PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

THE BURGER CORNER

INTERNATIONAL 43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094

THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON 54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2079 swisshousesaigon.com Serving up authentic cuisine spanning the three linguistic regions of Switzerland, as well as dishes from Bavaria and Austria, this attractive, two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer cellar in the basement.

HCMC

TOP EATS KEP ’N’ KEM

W

ith the continuing spread of US and home-grown ice cream and dessert parlours across Vietnam, an affordable post-pho hit of sweetness is now never too far away. While the likes of Fanny’s and Bud’s may blind you with page upon page of sugar-based alchemy, Kep ’n’ Kem is a far simpler affair. However, as with so any eateries in Vietnam, the shorter the menu and the smaller the chairs, the greater the reward.

Kep ’n’ Kem fits this trend. Situated on a buzzing side-street just inside District 3 (with a second branch in District 11), this pavement-facing joint constructs indulgent yet exceptionally good value delicacies, with just three hand-crafted components: fresh ice cream, French crêpes and sweet waffles. And you will want to try them all.

The Basics Two flavours of homemade ice-cream are churned out daily from a rotating selection of 30, with recent highlights including white chocolate, coffee and a French-style guava sorbet. The day of our visit it’s

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raspberry and vanilla — both in creamy gelato style.

The combination of high quality and natural ingredients is evident in their appearance alone. The raspberry glistens with a subtle pink hue — no crazy neon colourings here — and upon dunking, twisting and removing my spoon, a seductive, almost caramel-like texture is revealed.

“There are actual raspberries in this,” says one of my companions as we huddle around the tiny table. And she is not wrong; the taste is both sweet and refreshing, not too heavy, and very addictive.

The Sticky Stuff Crêpes are made to order, with a touch of flair and a choice of the usual accompaniments including the ubiquitous banana and Nutella (which is particularly divine here). Rich in flavour, yet not too buttery, each crêpe is carefully rolled and slotted into handy tear-down cardboard pockets, ideal for munching on the move (although do grab a napkin or three as the fillings will find their way onto your hands,

face and possibly elbows).

The Kem Burger, however, should most certainly be tackled in a seated position.

This irresistible creation sandwiches a generous portion of ice cream and Chantilly between two golden and perfectly cooked Liège-style waffles. Add your choice of topping (we opt for yet more Nutella, of course), and prepare to be engulfed in a fuzzy glow of happiness.

That combination of warm waffle dough and cold vanilla creaminess pooling in the waffle’s dimples…

The open-mouthed silence around our table said it all, although the plastic spoons were a little too flimsy for our eager hands.

Prices range from VND20,000 for a single portion of ice-cream to just VND50,000 for the Kem Burger. 750g take-away ice-cream tubs are priced at VND135,000. Along with several other sweet creations, an Emmental and ham crêpe is also available, although you’d do well to get that far down the menu. — Simon Stanley Kep ’n’ Kem is at 7 Nguyen Thuong Hien, Q3 and 2 Duong Dinh Nghe, Q11 in Ho Chi Minh City, facebook.com/kepnkem

HCMC TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas and more. Sells authentic shisha.

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

YAMANEKO

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8433 yamaneko–vn.com Funky Yamaneko — down an alley off Le Thanh Ton — offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Does a great set lunch deal.

YU CHU

TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA ANUPA YOGA 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net/yoga-anupa

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30– 32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 5999 Cfyc.com.vn

NUTRIFORT

GENERAL FITNESS 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8560 nutrifort.com Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

HEALTH CLUB & GYM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

SHERATON FITNESS

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

THE LANDMARK CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com

DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 dogmacollection.com The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate.

Sells prints of the originals and related products.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

(08) 3829 4441 baotangmythuattphcm.vn

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3181 07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3166 phuongmaigallery.com

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town.

Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

BACCHUS CORNER

WINE SHOP 158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3306 bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

WINE SHOP 74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 3575 daloc.vn

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4376 kimhai.vn

PHUONG HA

GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318

RED APRON

WINE SHOP 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0021

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE SHOP 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:

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HCMC

THE EMPTY WOK THAI GREEN CURRY

A food blogger and selfstyled chef, this month Riccha Arora whips up a vegetarian Thai green curry, perfect for you to cook at home

T

hai curries are bright combinations of curry paste, coconut milk and vegetables, punctuated by intoxicating fresh herbs. The flavours are exotic, and surprisingly quick to cook (15 minutes tops).

Any way you cook it, this is such an aromatic and tasty meal, you’ll forget how healthy it also is!

If you’re a vegetarian, you may be aware that green curry paste often contains fish or seafood extracts. But it’s so simple to make that buying it shouldn’t even be a consideration. Here is a recipe that still keeps that glorious green curry taste and meets the vegetarian requirement.

This Thai-flavoured chunky vegetable curry is best served with steamed rice.

The Ingredients — 4 pieces of lemongrass — 3cm of galangal / Chinese ginger — 1 cup coconut milk, canned or fresh — 3 to 4 fresh green chillies — 2 fresh red chilies — 100g of fresh coriander, with stems — Handful of fresh basil/kaffir lime leaves — 1 medium-size onion — 3 to 4 cloves of garlic — ¼ tsp cumin powder — 1 tbsp cooking oil — ½ cup water — ½ cup lime juice — Salt to taste — ¼ tsp sugar — Seasonal Vegetables medium diced (i.e.

1 red bell pepper, ¼ cup broccoli, ¼ cup eggplant, ¼ cup carrots, ¼ cup long beans and/or ¼ cup mushrooms) — Optional: add ½ cup tofu to increase protein

Method First, chop the lemongrass, onion, garlic, galangal, coriander and green chillies — then add cumin, salt and sugar and blend it in a mixer to a fine paste. Add

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some water if needed.

Next, heat the oil in a pan and add the paste. Stir for three to four minutes, and add all the vegetables (except the optional bell pepper). Add half of the coconut milk and water, and cover the pan until the vegetables are almost cooked. If you have bell pepper, now’s the time to add it.

Cook for another seven minutes.

Finally, add the basil or kaffir lime leaves, the remaining coconut milk and lime juice, and garnish with some chopped green onions and red chillies.

Your 100 percent vegan Thai green curry is ready to go!

Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy Kitchen — facebook.com/pages/SassyKitchen/514471675341572

HCMC VEGGY’S

a clean and pleasant environment.

GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526

VINIFERA

WINE SHOP 7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0860 viniferavn.com

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.

Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

HAIRDRESSERS

MEDICAL & DENTAL ACCADENT

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)

FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa.vn Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

MEKONG BLISS SPA 112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 0563 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm)

VENUS 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6298

JASMINE

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

SALONS & SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 aquadayspasaigon.com

FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa.com.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies.

Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in

Q SPA & SALON 31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08) 3905 4609 Qspaandsalon.com An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage.

Also offers hair styling and facials.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

THANH SANCTUARY Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0885

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB 22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn

THE SPA Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9007 Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800 thespavietnam.com

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 hyattpure.com

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 167

HCMC

A WORLD

OF

GETTING A GRIP ON EXCESS

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

N

GOs are in the news with jet-setting executives being grounded and dire warnings that reputations are in jeopardy because charities can’t control their boardroom and C-suite extravagances.

Excesses? Tell me that paying a single person US$534 million (VND111.2 trillion) a year is not excess. More like obscene.

That ignoble distinction goes to Leon Black, chair of private equity group Apollo.

The for-profit sector’s average CEO pay is US$13.9 million (VND292 billion) — but hey, Larry Page at Google only makes a measly US$1 million. Last year the median salary for a charity CEO was US$126,000 (VND2.65 billion). Clearly something’s awry here.

A country director I know here who works for a highly-reputable education and livelihoods INGO manages a budget of US$100 million (VND21 trillion) and over 100 staff. Those aren’t bake sale figures. What do you think he’s paid?

What do you think he ought to be paid?

What I don’t understand is those who insist that if you work in the nonprofit or charity or development sector you have to dress in rags and even better, selfflagellate regularly.

I’ve written about this regarding nonprofit overheads; now it’s time to address paycheques. Current thinking goes something like this: any money coming into a charity must go straight to delivering vital frontline services rather than lining the pockets of unaccountable charity executives. All well and good, but there’s a problem here. It’s called scale.

You can certainly boast that 100 percent of your bake sale earnings went to frontline services as you hand over VND200,000 to your favourite charity.

But what if you had some staff (like a talented CEO), who knew how to leverage your bake sale into a national fundraiser that netted US$10 million (VND210 billion)?

A Double Standard

The New Reality

This is the ugly truth: in the for-profit world, the more value you bring to the table (or create), the more money you make. In the nonprofit world you are deemed monstrous, bordering on immoral, to expect even distantly similar treatment. In the nonprofit world, you cannot make money when you’re helping people.

Given the dwindling government participation in the social sector, many charities have become complex entities, running multiple programmes at home and globally. They employ hundreds if not thousands of people. Nonprofits need to attract talent just as much as Goldman Sachs. It’s already understood that public money going into a charity requires

168 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

accountability and transparency, but that misses the point. Our socioeconomic values are out of balance — which is reflected in the scrutiny we give the nonprofit world, the crap wages we pay our teachers and social workers, and the astronomical salaries we shower on barely out-of-their-teens footballers.

I say nonprofit pay is a matter between executives and their boards and trustees, justifiable to their donors.

How do we reward the folks tasked with the overwhelming goal of making the world a better place for all? We wish to eradicate malaria and poverty and ensure a toilet for everyone, while enforcing an economic apartheid on the salaries to do so. I don’t think the answer is a bloated pay package, but hey, what if it helps you recruit the nonprofit leader who can prevent the needless deaths of tens of thousands of women and children every day? It’s time to pay them what they’re worth.

Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth. She can be contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com. au

HCMC 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

pham ngu lao

BLUE DRAGON

SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / GALLERIES BAKERIES CRUMBS

BAKERY 117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

TOUS LES JOURS

KOREAN BAKERY 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4350

BARS & CLUBS BIA TUOI 33

BIA HOI 33 Bui Vien, Q1

BREAD & BUTTER

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

GO2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9575

GODMOTHER BAR

RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3832 4589 godmothersaigon.com Only a couple blocks from the bru-haha of Bui Vien, Godmother’s is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent mojitos, good food, and the weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJ’s.

setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Check out their daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect

With its two-floor, nook-andcranny setup, it combines café culture, cocktails, art, DJ nights — now the home base for the Optimist Club — live music and various "happenings", sprinkling them throughout its cozy corners.

THI CAFÉ

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929

T&R TAVERN

DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9839

UNIVERSAL BAR SAIGON VIBRATIONS

REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the name of that most special of sounds — the one from Jamaica.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

SPOTTED COW

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Alfrescosgroup.com Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

THE OBSERVATORY LE PUB

GINKGO

BAR, ART & MUSIC SPACE Cnr. Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 0906 359440 theobservatory-hcmc.com The Observatory is DJ Hibiya Line's new youth culture hub, just off Pham Ngo Lao.

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com

CAFES BOBBY BREWER’S

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4090 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fast-food style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge.

Check website for movie locations and schedule.

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE 213 Bui Vien, Q1 facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BAM SKATE SHOP

SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

MARATHON

BUDGET CLOTHING 147 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019

PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING 232 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com

ORANGE

BUDGET CLOTHING 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm

U.BEST HOUSE

TRAVEL GEAR 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9780

your-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

CORIANDER

THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311

JJ’S FISH ‘N CHIPS

FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De Tham, Q1

thing from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar.

A popular hangout.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

LA CANTINA

TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE 175/3 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

MARGHERITA

ITALIAN / TEX-MEX 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

PUNJABI INDIAN RESTAURANT

NORTH INDIAN / PUNJAB 40/23 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 3777 monuvn@gmail.com Ignore the non-trendy, holein-the-wall appearance. This side-street Indian serves up some excellent fare at reasonable prices, with a number of Punjabi specialities to boot.

SISTERS CAFE

VIETNAMESE/WESTERN 185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 Light wood paneling, beige walls and locally themed artwork help to create a fresh and airy ambience in this café-cum-restaurant that is owned by the woman behind Chi’s Café. Also does visa extensions and motorbike rental.

WRAP & ROLL 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check out the second floor, junglein-the-wall décor at this particular branch. Unique and refreshing.

ZEUS

GREEK / KEBAB 164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

EAT BABA’S KITCHEN

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.

BURRITO REVOLUTION

TEX-MEX / STREET STALL 124 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0902 714882

CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, build-

TAM HAO HANDPULLED NOODLES CHINESE NOODLES 195A De Tham, Q1 tamhao.com Nothing gets better than a bowl of tasteful broth and hand-pulled Chinese noodles, especially when it’s from Tam Hao. Hip interior design draws many a traveller into this tasteful but non-fancy hotel noodle restaurant, leaving them craving for more.

GALLERIES GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

THE HUNGRY PIG

BACON BAR / CAFE 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533 facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in any-

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 169

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district 1

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

D

CAFE THOAI VIEN

HOA VIEN

CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn

MZ CLUB

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Saigon’s first reggae bar located close to The Observatory on the other side of Pham Ngu Lao. Open late, holds a number of nights like Tropical Wednesday, Thursday-before-midnightshots-only ladies’ night and Underground Saturdays, all in an attempt to pump things up for the party seekers in town.

BOOKS LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.

Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com

CAFES (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews

159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien.com Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3833 3648 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

DECIBEL

INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel.vn Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3844 3295 saigongivral.com

I.D. CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.net Centrally located near Ben

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District 10

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Le Lo i

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café. Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espresso-based coffee.

an

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1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003 sam.nguyen197@gmail.com A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.

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L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

Tr u

Du

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Ng .H ue

Ham Nghi

District 2

Da o

TOP-END BAR & TERRACE Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.

BANKSY CAFE

District 3

Hu ng

CHILL SKYBAR

Ha i

Ba

t Kie n Va

Tr an

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 0906 780081

Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

To n

Ho

BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)

in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

an g

in h

en Ti

BARS & CLUBS

Binh Thanh

in h

District 4

Vo

LE PETIT CAFÉ

FRENCH 112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2067

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400 facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272 facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205 facebook.com/thingscafe Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOSSINI

UNISEX CASUAL WEAR 22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3839 2292 Bossini.com

GAYA CLOTHING

HAND-MADE / DESIGNER Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925

1495 Gayavietnam.com Clothing is designed and tailor-made by renowned designer Romyda Keth, and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. Gaya sells colourful, sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE GAYA

CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1495 gayavietnam.com Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the

products.

EAT 27 GRILL

GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grill-style fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.

CAFÉ IF

VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

COBALT

ROOFTOP RESTOBAR Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullman-saigon-centre.com A tapas-style contemporary international menu in an equally modern chic space, Cobalt also has panoramic views over the city thanks to its 30th-floor location. Has a focus on wine matching and tasting. A hotel restaurant with a difference.

DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

MAY RESTAURANT

INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE 3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1277 May-cloud.com Meaning ‘Cloud’, May utilises homemade recipes and broths developed by the restaurateur’s father, such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in an Indochine atmosphere.

MONSOON

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy

HCMC juices and smoothies.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

QUAN UT UT

AMERICAN VIETNAMESE GRILL 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500 quanutut.com On-site American grilltype fare in a Vietnamese, wooden table setting. Think ribs, burgers and all things hearty at this immensely popular eatery.

PARKVIEW

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.

QUAN BUI

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

QUAN UT UT

US-STYLE BARBECUE 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500 facebook.com/quanutut It’s a no-brainer, right?

American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA STAR FITNESS GYM

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh

Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

GALLERIES

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 0183 San-art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CITYSMART Horizon Tower, 214 Tran Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3526 8833 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn re.com MEDICAL

& DENTAL

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

WE LINK

COUNSELLING 64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Psychological counselling services for individual, group and family. Diverse counsellors and therapists, using Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French and Spanish spoken.

SALONS & SPAS CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steamsauna, paraffin and waxing services.

HAIR BAR

CONTEMPORARY SALON 68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108 hairbar.vn A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/hairbarvn.

SPA TROPIC

79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 171

HCMC two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

Home décor orders are also available.

district 2

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

CHI LAI

DISTRICT 2 Nội

Thao Dien

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BAKERY 244 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8392 The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien, Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries such as croissants, pain au chocolat, pain raisins, pizza dough, pates feuillete and much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc, Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and Ho Chi Minh City.

LOAVES & FISHES

BAKERY / CAFE 5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4118 harvestbaking.net

VOELKER

BAKERY 39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

BARS & CLUBS BAAN THAI

SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one, the focus here is not just the cuisine but a con-

Xa

Lộ

DISTRICT 2 temporary bar area and live sports. Lots of live sports.

The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.

BMV PUB & GRILL 38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel: 01299 839314 facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill With its seven TVs, full-size mezzanine area, pool table and aircon lounge space, BMV is the perfect place in District 2 to relax and watch the sports. Has live music on Thursday and Friday nights, and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in Thao Dien.

BUDDHA BAR

RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon.com Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

MCSORLEY’S

IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126 9026006 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.

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SAIGON OUTCAST

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini- skate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.

THE FAN CLUB

SPORTS BAR Ground Floor, The Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, Q2 dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub 12 quality screens and eight draught beers, music spun

by DJs, excellent burgers, quiz nights and barbecues.

All in an attractive, contemporary environment.

CAFES AGNES CAFE

COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offers a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Now open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed

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and intimate.

CAFÉ EVITA

LAID-BACK CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 230A Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 3888

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES LITTLE ANH-EM

BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING 37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE AUSTIN HOME

REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023 austinhomeinteriors.com Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or

HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

FEELING TROPIC

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above.

Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks.

Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

EAT AGNES CAFÉ

CAFÉ FARE / TEX-MEX 11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable café offering up a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Open until 10pm.

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA 126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX Trading Centre 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.

BAAN THAI

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the

HCMC SPORTS

Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

BOOM BOOM BURGER

US-STYLE BURGER JOINT 2 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 532378 boomboomburgers.wago.co A simple and tasty menu similar to that of the US’s InN-Out burger, the tiny Boom Boom has chosen to focus on the fundamentals of the perfect burger — sweet potato fries, jalapeno-infused beef patties and special avocado blends.

LA CLOSERIE D’ELISA

CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL

AND

RUGBY

024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. astere@hotmail.fr

SAIGON RAIDERS Saigonraiders.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com

SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints.com

SPORTS — GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899 James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans.com

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Saigon-ultimate.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON gauloisdesaigon.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com

Contact Fred on 0919 709

FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT 52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 A tropical garden ambience that is at once French yet contemporary Indochinese is the home of this table d’hote style restaurant and bar. Classic French cuisine at reasonable prices in the heart of Thao Dien.

LA PLANCHA 25 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8521

LU BU

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant.com Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.

Has petanque on the terrace.

Italian restaurant, classic fare is combined with a special contemporary menu that brings together a fusion of European dishes, cooked up with Italian flair. Excellent Facebook-based delivery service. Go to facebook. com/Pendolasco2 for full menu and info.

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385

TAMAGO

CHIARA SQUINZI

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms.

They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

THE LOOP

HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA AQUAFIT

AQUABIKING 65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 008985 aquafit.vn

Tel: 01278 163620 laholista.com Experienced health coach as well as a corporate and school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve their health and weight goals through the innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. For more info email chiara@laholista.com.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 540030

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)

GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort.com A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER

BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2. Tel: 0947 77 13 26 Cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril features the same personalized mentorship Cyril’s clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10. Also has kids activites classes. Monday to Friday every week at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE 100%

MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES 26B Thao Dien, Q2 100percentvn.com

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.

PAPAGAYO

FRENCH BISTRO / COCKTAILS 18 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q3, Tel: (08) 6252 1333 facebook.com/papagayosaigon

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Saigon’s longest running

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HCMC vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

GROCERIES & IMPORTER No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines with a portfolio spanning old and new world as well as everything in between.

The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new tipple.

HAIRDRESSERS CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure.vn Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.

Tel: (08) 7300 7257 info@eishcmc.com www.eishcmc.com Located in the heart of Thao Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum.

EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 ishcmc.com The only fully authorized IB World School in Ho Chi Minh City, ISHCMC has been awarding graduates with an IB Diploma and sending them off to high-profile overseas universities since 1999.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers en-

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sure personal attention for all students.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223 theamericanschool.edu.vn

KIDS FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM www.firstBIKE.com.vn FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

SALONS & SPAS AUTHENTIC SPA Thao Dien Village, Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222

AVEDA HERBAL SPA

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON

104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321

district 3

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS BARS & CLUBS ACOUSTIC

LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars.

Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 0907 502951

CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS

LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE 224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948 031323

WOODSTOCK BAR

MUSIC BAR / CAFE 39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.

Tel: (08) 39304075 metallicbar.com Showcases a variety of different types of music — anything from rock, pop and rap to Latino — as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica, Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana and Guns ’n Roses. Covered live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music starts at 8.30pm.

PLAN B

CONTEMPORARY BAR 147 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 0987 684761

171 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 2778 budsicecream.com.vn

HIDEAWAY

INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon.com Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.

OPERATION: TEAROOM

TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0169 3583563 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BOO STREETWEAR 187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 boo.vn CRAFTS

& FURNITURE

ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR

ROCK BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08) 6290 7489

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AN’S INTERIOR CAFÉ

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 3398

BUD’S

ICE-CREAM PARLOUR

ATC FURNITURE

ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 39326455 SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 38403946 atc-craft.com Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living space of your home? Come to ATC FURNITURE, you will find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly materials (water hyacinth & rattan). Our outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A hanging (hammock) chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long day at work.

REMIX DECO

INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco.com

EAT

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Open for over a decade, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eatas-much-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, Passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.

Best washed down with red wine or a Caipirinha or five.

BANH CANH HOANG TY

BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE 70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com

HIGHWAY 4

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.

JOIE DE VIVRE

WESTERN / FRENCH 292/10, Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066 facebook.com/joie.vn

PHO HOA

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943

SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor

HCMC

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Tibrestaurant.com.vn

VIET CHAY

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2 and 3. Private and group yoga classes. Home visits available.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9429 saigonbellydance.com

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

HAIRDRESSERS

YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 michelle@michellelloyd.com michellelloyd.com American trained and licensed massage therapist and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and massage spaces in Districts

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MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY

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YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CITYSMART 7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488 citysmart.vn

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INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

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INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service.

Orthodontics is also available.

CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

VAS

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278 vas.edu.vn

MEDICAL & DENTAL STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the

foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC

CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www.acc.vn A clinic provides world class Chiropractic, Physiotherapy and Foot Care. We specialize in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries, and all types of foot problems. We also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome in children and adult.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908 453 338 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579

SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 175

HCMC

FOOD PROMOS El Gaucho Goes Prix Fixe elgaucho.asia El Gaucho’s new restaurant at 74/1 Hai Ba Trung (Q1, HCMC) already has a thriving lunch trade, and with a new set lunch menu starting at VND690,000 things are about to get crazy. From 11am to 5pm, this menu offers a variety of choices for starter, main course and dessert, including tea or coffee. And of course, the a la carte menu is always available — if you need to get the 1,000g USDA rib eye at 3pm, go for it.

A Taste of the Old Country @ Annam Gourmet annam-gourmet.com For a lot of us, Annam Gourmet is one of the connections we keep with our home countries. This month Annam is making that connection stronger until Oct. 12, with their European Rustic Fine Food promo, celebrating the unique and authentic tastes we’d forgotten how much we crave.

And keep your eyes peeled throughout the month for Oktoberfest specials!

Sheraton Celebrations sheratonsaigon.com Sheraton starts this special month by churning out the bratwurst every Saturday in October at Saigon Café, along with other German delicacies like ‘farmer style’ pate, pork jelly, German cold cuts, oven-roasted pork knuckle, roast garlic pork neck and cheese spatzle. The VND1.01 million++ bill includes a free flow of house wine, coffee and tea.

Saigon Café strikes again this Halloween, with a buffet featuring Halloween fare like you’ve never tasted, including pumpkin salad, coleslaw, Kansas City BBQ ribs, layered hamburger pie, oven-roasted USDA beef prime rib, candied yams, oyster Rockefeller and tasty desserts like New York cheese cake and Boston cream pie. The VND1.3 million++ includes free flows of wine, coffee and tea.

Load up on Dim Sum @ Hotel Equatorial hcm.equatorial.com Saturdays and Sundays, get all the dim sum you can handle at Orientica, served alongside seven selections of tea for only VND338,000++ per person. What’s more, they’re betting you’ll be a return customer — and if you collect 10 stamps on your frequent eater card you’ll get an all-youcan-eat lunch on the house! As always, a la carte dim sum is offered during the week, from VND48,000++ per basket.

176 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Halloween at the Sheraton Saigon

Sushi and Sashimi Blast

Park Hyatt Goes Pink

@ Mövenpick Saigon moevenpick-saigon.com On Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday nights, Mövenpick’s Japanese option, Iki, offers the best raw deal in town — VND299,000++ for all the fresh sashimi, sushi, nigiri, temaki and miso soup you can eat. Surrounded by the modern trappings Mövenpick is known for, you’ll snack down on some of the best Japanese food in town.

During the rest of the week, their Business Set Lunch gives a sturdy portion of Japanese for a very respectable VND139,000++ — available Monday to Friday lunchtimes.

parkhyattsaigon.com Park Hyatt is taking the opportunity of Vietnamese Women’s Day to punctuate their month-long dedication to Breast Cancer Awareness Month, with a pink decorating theme greeting hotel guests and a special “pink surprise” awaiting all resto guests on Oct. 20.

In addition, the much-loved afternoon tea is getting sweeter with an all-pink set-up. From chocolate-coated berries to meringues and macaroons, pink lovers will get the best colour in their lives by visiting Park Lounge this month.

A Tour of Argentine Wines

Ghost Chef at Renaissance Riverside

@ Caravelle Hotel caravellehotel.com Grapes grown on the foothills of the Andes Mountains and ripened under the Argentinian sun are the stars of a one-night wine encounter at Caravelle. The famous Mendoza region’s Trapiche Winery will be on show in a four-course gourmet menu at Reflections, featuring the winery’s acclaimed Iscay Malbec–Cabernet Franc, Iscay Merlot–Malbec and more. The Taste of the Andes will take place on Oct. 9 at 7pm, priced at VND1.48 million net — contact 0906 900523 for more information.

renaissance-saigon.com The Riverside Café’s Executive Ghost Chef is on the loose this Oct. 30 and Oct. 31 — making your taste buds feel things they thought they’d never feel. For VND1 million++ — VND1.3 million++ including free flows of wine, beer and Halloween cocktails — you’ll go a long way towards ensuring your Halloween is much more ‘treat’ than ‘trick’.

HCMC courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

phu my hung

PANORMA FITNESS

INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS 206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel: 01654 058401 / 01629 546534 cezsaigon@gmail.com

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL Đông yễn Ch

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Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.

Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to highschool, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

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CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

DISTRICT 7 PHU MY HUNG

BAKERIES L’AMOUR

BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery.com.vn

SAVOURE

BAKERY Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

SIMRANS

BAKERY SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908 828552 simrans.sg

BARS & CLUBS BANANA BAR

EXPAT BAR SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3282 A downstairs pool table, an open, street side terrace and specials on Tiger draft, this fun but slightly run-down joint is a local haunt for many a resident of Saigon South.

PEACHES

CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more.

A popular local haunt.

RUBY SOHO

CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900

THE TAVERN

EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody.

Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7355 bellavitafurniture.com

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110; S17 – Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-creations.org

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-quilts.org

EAT BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304

MING DYNASTY

LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 5555

NATHALIE’S

THAI / VIETNAMESE S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0822 nathaliesrestaurant.com

SCOTT AND BINH’S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

VIVA TAPAS BAR & GRILL

GRILL & BAR/ TAPAS R4-28 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 facebook.com/VIVATapasBar.pmh As well as classical Andalusian tapas, VIVA serves up a selection of original but flavourful dishes for those who dare to try. A Mediterranean-themed interior and a desire to provide something not presently available in Saigon South sets this joint apart.

13C Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence.

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: 0908 460267 kidsclubsaigon.com An international early childhood center in Phu My Hung serving 130+ expat and local families over two campuses.

Provides early learning programmes for children ages 18 months to five in a secure, loving, and creative environment.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

Crescent Residence 2, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 kindermusik-vietnam.com

CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

GYM, POOL, SQUASH 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277 The-crescent.com Overlooking the Crescent complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash

102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052 lgkids.vn

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance.edu.vn

MEDICAL & DENTAL AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn. com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience.

The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments.

Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

FV HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

EASTERN MEDICINE 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 177

HCMC

STUDENT EYE THE THING ABOUT TEACHERS

‘passionate’, ‘understanding’ or ‘respectful’ — those are qualities any teacher should have.

A great teacher, however, is a personal notion. For me, a few names and a few faces came to mind and I was able to discern one trait that they all share: a slight disregard for the rules. My old physics and chemistry teacher used to make fun of my shoes, only when he left did I realise how much I enjoyed his classes; my sardonic humanities teacher couldn’t resist the urge to start conversations with his classes about the hidden facts of history, and sometimes forgot the curriculum altogether; and last but not least, my bizarre seventh grade French teacher, who could be cuttingly sarcastic, but also astonishingly profound. It’s not that the rules didn’t apply to them or that these teachers were too good to follow them. They just preferred to carve out their own paths.

And maybe that’s what I yearned for the whole time: a pioneering spirit.

The Best You Can Expect

T

he other day, a strange thought hit me. I remembered my seventh grade French teacher, who often asked weird essays of us. On the first day we met, he told the whole class to take out a paper and pen (which often meant a pop quiz), giving everyone a fright. But instead he asked us to answer one simple question: “In your opinion, what is a great teacher?”

What was he asking of us, we wondered. Was this man demanding his students to do his job for him? Two types of teachers leave a mark on you: the ones you love and the ones you hate. My eccentric French teacher was somewhere in between.

After blurting out the essay prompt in a matter-of-fact tone, he sat down legs crossed in front of the computer and ignored us completely. 15 minutes

178 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

before the bell rang, I quickly scribbled down something, handed the paper to my teacher and left the classroom as quickly as what I wrote left my head.

And it came back to me, three years later! On that day, how many of my classmates were silly enough to do the same thing I did? What he presented to us that day was the option to, in a way, shape our school year with him; tell him what we wanted so he could hand it to us! I then gave the question a bit more thought.

Mr. Perfect Teacher It was a difficult question then, and it’s still a difficult question now. Hard enough to have 23 little 13-year-old brains malfunctioning over it. In hopes of not falling into clichés, I filtered out words such as ‘hard-working’,

Thinking back, my French teacher did ask the same question to 23 different students…

Was he prepared to shoulder the burden of 23 different expectations of him?

Like I said above, ‘a great teacher ’ is an individual question. You and I vary greatly. In front of two-dozen wishful pairs of eyes, the one feeling fidgety, scared and nervous should be our teachers, not us. Objectively speaking, most of my professors weren’t ‘great’ or ‘perfect’, they were just okay. And okay is good — it proves that they’re human.

From time to time, you will meet someone ‘great’ — someone who fits your liking. But maybe that’s only according to you. So, right now, a good teacher will do for me. What about you? — To Thu Phuong To Thu Phuong is a high school junior at Alexandre Yersin French High School (Lycée Français Alexandre Yersin) in Hanoi, lfay.com.vn

HCMC

NON-FAMOUS PLACES 3 VO TRUONG TOAN: BEHIND THE SUGARCANE STAND

In an ongoing series originally published on the blog From Saigon, Non-Famous Places seeks to take readers to Ho Chi Minh City landmarks left off most maps, whose stories make up the very fabric of the city itself

J

ust next door to the Modernist circularity of 1 Vo Truong Toan in District 5 sits a house in a very different style. Composed of curlicues in concrete, geometric reliefs, painted Ionian columns, a pitchedtile roof that from beneath looks like a mound of popsicle sticks, tilework of yellow, green, red and white — repeating kaleidoscopes of stars, fleur-de-lis and feathered plumage, somewhat Moorish in mood — it’s a fusion of popular styles from 100 years ago. All of them faded, like the images of loved ones on the walls.

Two generations lived there before Pham Thi Hue, who runs the sugarcane stand on the other side of the boundary wall. They’re all descendants of the family’s patriarch, great-grandfather Quang Chau, a court figure in the last

Illustration by Lys Bui

imperial court in Hue. In a portrait that must date from the 19th century, he stares ahead with youthful purpose, in clothes drawn on perhaps in stylistic update — a French cap over a stiff, split-collared robe.

On the other walls sit Hue’s grandparents, looking more traditional than Quang Chau, more receded into history. Then her bookseller parents, mother with a perm and airbrushed glow surrounding her head, looking content.

An oversaturated black-and-white photo holds the head of an older brother, who died for some unexplained reason.

New Life A young girl runs around in a white dress, smiling, patting down halls in her plastic shoes, blurring out of photos. Her grandfather — Hue’s husband, Nguyen Quoc Nam — looks lovingly on and tosses

off a sweet little nothing in the French patois we’ve negotiated between us.

Living alongside the ancestors on the wall are seven others, sharing this house and a rear extension. Most of Hue’s other family members have moved to the US, starting with her grandmother.

Nam shows us a computer — grandson occupied with it — and then we chance upon a guitar. “Tu joues?” I ask. “Oui, je joue,” he says, picking it up.

Settling into a leather-upholstered rocking chair, Nam gently starts in on a lilting French ballad, looking up in smiling, soulful eye contact every phrase or two. It’s a jaunty tune, and it seems to fill the house with the youthful exuberance of the year it was written. — Ed Weinberg The From Saigon blog is at from-saigon. tumblr.com

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 179

Chiến Dịch Cứu Lấy Tê Giác

Một nghệ sỹ Việt Nam đã quyết định hành động

T

rước khi George Clooney tham gia, báo chí quốc tế đã bỏ qua những tội ác đã xảy ra ở Darfur. Nữ diễn viên đoạt giải Oscar Angelina Jolie đã và đang hỗ trợ toàn bộ 28 cơ sở và các tổ chức từ thiện bao gồm UNICEF, UNHCR, và Human Rights Watch.

Nhạc sỹ Bono của nhóm U2 nổi tiếng cũng hỗ trợ cho 36 tổ chức gồm Amnesty International và water.org. Ngay cả Sean Penn, chồng cũ của nữ ca sỹ Madonna, cũng tham gia ủng hộ việc trao trả quần đảo Falkland cho Argentina.

Mục đích, ít nhất là trên bề mặt, là để củng cố lòng tin và tính pháp lý cho những vấn đề này.

Bằng việc có một nghệ sỹ nổi tiếng làm người dẫn đầu, các cơ sở, tổ chức từ thiện hay các tổ chức phi chính phủ (NGO) có thể nâng cao nhận thức và kêu gọi giới truyền thông ủng hộ.

Do vậy, việc phát hiện ra ngôi sao ca nhạc, diva

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Việt Nam Hồng Nhung là người đứng sau chiến dịch 'Saving the Rhino' (tạm dịch là Cứu Lấy Tê Giác) có lẽ không có gì là ngạc nhiên lắm. Điều gây ngạc nhiên duy nhất là cô ấy là nghệ sỹ Việt Nam đầu tiên giữ vai trò này.

Chuyến Đi Nam Phi

Các vấn đề bảo tồn tê giác đã luôn được ghi chép lại cẩn thận. Việc tin rằng sừng tê giác có khả năng thần kỳ chữa bệnh ung thư và các vấn đề sức khỏe khác, cũng như nâng cao giá trị xã hội khi sở hữu nó, đã điều khiển ngành công nghiệp săn trộm ở Nam Phi. Năm 2013, 1.004 con tê giác đã bị giết chỉ để lấy sừng — bao gồm cả những con tê giác đen cuối cùng nay đã tuyệt chủng của Châu Phi — trong khi đó, trong năm 2014, tính cho tới nay có hơn 700 con tê giác bị giết hại. Nếu vấn nạn này không

được ngăn chặn, sẽ còn có nhiều sự tuyệt chủng hơn.

Với vai trò mới này, tháng trước Hồng Nhung đã có chuyến tìm hiểu thực tế tới Nam Phi. Được tài trợ bởi Rhinose Foundation và tổ chức Humane Society International- Australia, và được tổ chức cùng với tổ chức Education for Nature ở Việt Nam (ENV), chuyến đi còn có sự tham gia của phóng viên báo Lao Động, phó cục trưởng hải quan cục điều tra chống buôn lậu Việt Nam và một đại diện của đài truyền hình VCTV. Theo ENV, chuyến đi nhằm mục đích "thắt chặt mối liên hệ giữa Nam Phi và Việt Nam, và tuyên truyền các vấn đề này trực tiếp đến người dân Việt Nam bằng hình ảnh của những nghệ sỹ được yêu mến".

Tham quan công viên quốc gia Kruger , nơi đã mất hơn 400 con tê giác từ đầu năm đến

nay, đoàn đã gặp gỡ với các ban quản lý công viên, cán bộ kiểm lâm và các nhóm bảo tồn để hiểu rõ hơn về những khó khăn họ phải đối mặt trong nỗ lực bảo vệ tê giác. Họ cũng đã bay bằng trực thăng đến hiện trường một con tê giác vừa bị giết.

"Tôi thực sự bị sốc", Hồng Nhung cho biết, khi cô đứng gần cái xác. "Con tê giác này đã bị giết và sừng của nó đã bị lấy mất. Đây là hiện trường tàn bạo nhất mà tôi đã từng chứng kiến."

Cô nói thêm: "Khi tôi trở lại Việt Nam, tôi sẽ kể về những trải nghiệm của tôi để [người ta] hiểu và cảm nhận được mức độ nghiêm trọng của vụ sát hại vô nghĩa này, và tác động của nó lên loài động vật tuyệt vời này. "

Sẽ Hiệu Quả Chứ?

Theo tờ The Independent của Anh, hai nghiên

cứu gần đây cho thấy những người nổi tiếng là "vô hiệu" trong việc khuyến khích mọi người quan tâm đến các vấn đề ở nước ngoài. Thay vào đó, các nhà xã hội học công bằng cho hay, "những người hưởng lợi chính trong nỗ lực dùng hình ảnh ngôi sao nổi tiếng để nâng cao hình ảnh các chiến dịch cũng chính là họ".

Tuy nhiên, Jane Cooper, Giám đốc truyền thông UNICEF Anh, nói "Người nổi tiếng có một khả năng duy nhất để tiếp cận với hàng triệu người, mặc dù nhiều người trong số họ có thể thường không quan tâm."

Chắc chắn hình ảnh của Hồng Nhung sẽ được nâng lên qua chiến dịch này. Nhưng hy vọng nó cũng đem lại lợi ích cho những con tê giác. — Nick Ross Để biết thêm thông tin về công việc của ENV, hãy truy cập vào envietnam.org

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 181

Bảo Tồn Hay Hiện Đại Hóa?

N

Câu chuyện về hai thành phố lớn của Việt Nam

hững tòa nhà cũ kỹ gây ra không ít vấn đề. Đầu tiên là vị trí của chúng. Ở Việt Nam, ngoại trừ một số ít các trường hợp ngoại lệ, hầu hết những tòa nhà này đều nằm ở trung tâm thành phố. Với quỹ đất có hạn, người ta luôn nghĩ đến giải pháp xóa bỏ chúng và thay vào đó là những tòa nhà cao tầng. Về mặt giá trị khu đất và những lợi ích về kinh tế nó mang lại, những toà nhà chọc trời như thế đơn giản là mang lại hiệu quả cao hơn.

Việc bảo tồn cũng là một vấn đề. Đối với nhiều công ty xây dựng hay chủ sở hữu của những tòa nhà này, việc xóa bỏ chúng và xây mới lại hoàn toàn thường tiêu tốn ít hơn so với việc bảo tồn và đầu tư vào những tòa nhà đang xập xệ và đổ nát.

Yếu tố chủ quan cũng đóng vai trò quan trọng, đặc biệt với những nơi có giá trị về mặt di sản.

Những tòa nhà như Nhà Hát Lớn hay khách sạn Metropole ở Hà Nội hay Nhà Hát Lớn và chợ Bến Thành ở thành phố Hồ Chí Minh là những nơi đứng đầu trong danh sách di sản. Những công trình này là những địa danh với giá trị về mặt lịch sử, tinh thần và cả kiến trúc. Những tòa nhà khác không có được sức mạnh đó. Một khi những giá trị di sản càng cao, những tòa nhà càng có sức mạnh để được bảo tồn.

Và tất nhiên, việc quy hoạch đô thị cũng có tiếng nói riêng của nó. Cả Hà Nội và thành phố Hồ Chí Minh đều đang trong các giai đoạn phát triển. Với những thiết kế mang tên gọi tiến bộ hay hoành tráng, một số tòa nhà sẽ được cứu sống, nhưng một

182 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

số khác sẽ bị loại bỏ. Hãy nhìn vào sự san bằng khu Thủ Thiêm ở Quận Hai trong thành phố Hồ Chí Minh. Để tạo ra một khu trung tâm thành phố mới ở bờ bên kia của sông Sài Gòn, những cư dân ở đây đã phải di dời và những ngôi nhà của họ đã bị xóa sổ hoàn toàn.

Tiến bộ hay Bảo tồn

Cho đến gần đây, những yếu tố ảnh hưởng tới kiến trúc của Việt Nam thường có phần nghiêng về “tiến bộ”. Lịch sử, thay vì một thứ để nhớ về, trở thành một thứ để lãng quên. Trong quá trình đó, những thứ được xếp là “cũ” thường bị coi là xấu xí và cần phải được thay thế, và những thứ “phù phiếm” hay “mới” thường lại được đề cao.

Nhưng thời đại đang đổi thay. Trước đây, những người nước ngoài thường là những người tỏ ra buồn rầu khi thấy những tòa nhà có giá trị ở Việt Nam bị dỡ bỏ, ngày nay càng ngày càng có nhiều người Việt Nam cảm thấy như vậy. Đã có những sự đánh giá đúng đắn cho những gì thuộc về di sản mà thậm chí chỉ năm năm trước thôi còn không tồn tại.

Gần đây nhất là sự kiện Thương xá Tax của Sài Gòn bị dỡ bỏ. Là một phần của quá trình xây dựng lại trung tâm Sài Gòn, tòa trung tâm giao thương được xây từ những năm 20 này đã có quyết định đóng cửa vào đầu tháng 8. Chỉ trong hai tháng, những người buôn bán ở đây phải dọn dẹp hết đồ đạc hàng hóa của mình, và sự kiện đã gây ra nhiều lời bàn tán tới kinh ngạc. Người ta truyền nhau và kí vào những lá thư cầu cứu, cộng đồng mạng râm ran

những lời tiếc nuối về tòa nhà và những cư dân nơi đây cũng được các trang báo địa phương cập nhật liên tục. Lần này không phải là người nước ngoài đi đầu trong việc thể hiện sự tiếc nuối. Mà chính là người Việt Nam.

Tới Vô Tận và Hơn Thế Nữa

Thay đổi, xây dựng mới và xóa bỏ những cái cũ là không thể tránh được trong cuộc sống hiện đại ở Việt nam. Đây là một đất nước đang phát triển mạnh mẽ – để tiếp tục tiến trình nhanh chóng tiếp cận với thế giới phát triển, những thay đổi như thế này là không thể tránh khỏi.

Tuy nhiên, bây giờ và hơn bất cứ lúc nào, cần có những hướng dẫn chi tiết về sự phát triển này. Cái gì cần được bảo tồn? Tại sao nó cần được bảo tồn? Bảo tồn bằng cách nào? Bằng cách lập ra một danh sách đầy đủ những tòa nhà cần được bảo vệ - cả lớn lẫn nhỏ – chúng ta vẫn có thể giữ được nét đặc trưng của hai thành phố lớn nhất đất nước. Một số tòa nhà xứng đáng được gìn giữ, một số khác thì không.

Sự phân biệt này cần phải được làm hết sức rõ ràng.

Có quá nhiều tòa nhà đáng ra cần phải được bảo tồn nhưng đã bị xóa sổ.

Mệnh danh là thành phố sống bằng du lịch, Hội An có động cơ để bảo vệ vẻ ngoài và giá trị lịch sử của nó. Ở Hà Nội và thành phố Hồ Chí Minh, những động cơ như vậy không rõ ràng lắm. Thay vào đó, sự độc đáo, tính cách riêng và lịch sử là những gì quan trọng đối với hai nơi này. Và những thứ đó hẳn là vô giá. — Nick Ross

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TP.HCM & HÀ NỘI — 22, 25 – 26/10

THIẾU VẮNG NHỮNG NGÔI SAO

Nhóm múa đương đại được chào đón, The James Cousins Dance Company, sẽ bùng nổ trên sân khấu vào ngày 22/10 (Hà Nội) và 25 – 26/10 (TP. HCM).

Họ sẽ biểu diễn hai phần đầy cảm xúc — Without Stars và There We Have — cả hai phần đều được lấy cảm hứng từ cuốn tiểu thuyết của Haruki Murakami, Rừng Na Uy. Một tác phẩm gần đây của nhóm múa này đã được nhà phê bình múa người

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Anh nổi tiếng, Laura Dodge, miêu tả là "một trong những tác phẩm múa đương đại tuyệt vời nhất mà tôi từng thấy", hứa hẹn một kinh nghiệm quyến rũ và ám ảnh.

Buổi biểu diễn tại Hà Nội sẽ được thực hiện tại Nhà hát Tuổi Trẻ Hà Nội (11 Ngô Thì Nhậm, Hai Bà Trưng), trong khi ở Sài Gòn sẽ là tại sân khấu IDECAF (28 Lê Thánh Tôn, Q1). Để mua vé, vui lòng vào ticketbox.vn. Giá vé sẽ được thông báo sau.

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TP. HCM — 31/10

HALLOWEEN Ở CARGO BAR

Bạn đi đâu khi muốn xem các ban nhạc yêu thích thứ hai của mình biểu diễn? Chỉ một nơi duy nhất có một số ban nhạc yêu thích là những nhóm nhạc indie Sài Gòn và những huyền thoại khác như ParliamentFunkadelic, Florence và the Machine và The Misfits - đó là Cargo Bar vào đêm Halloween. Ngoài ra còn có

Arctic Monkeys, Bob Dylan, New Order và Joan Baez, đủ thỏa mãn niềm đam mê âm nhạc của bạn để không bao giờ phải đi đến Thị Café một lần nữa.

Halloween Covers bắt đầu vào từ 21:00 tại Cargo Bar — 7 Nguyễn Tất Thành, Q4, TP. Hồ Chí Minh. Xem thêm trên trang 84

TP. HCM — 24 – 25/10

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HÀ NỘI — SUỐT THÁNG

NGHỆ THUẬT ĐỒ HỌA CỦA BENJAMIN BADOCK

SỰ KIỆN BALADE EN FRANCE

Tiếp nối thành công của bốn phiên bản trước đây, Balade En France năm hay hứa hẹn sẽ mang đến một đêm thú vị tại một khách sạn sang trọng.

Dự kiến sẽ có khoảng 1.800 người yêu thích nước Pháp tham gia tại khách sạn Equatorial (242 Trần Bình Trọng, Q5, TP. HCM) cho hai đêm diễn ra sự kiện, bạn sẽ có cơ hội nói về ẩm thực và rượu vang, cùng các nghệ thuật của

quê hương đất nước Pháp được trưng bày trong sự kiện. Với mong muốn tạo dấu ấn, sự kiện năm nay sẽ mang bạn đến tận nước Pháp.

Balade En France bắt đầu từ 18:00 - 23:00 mỗi đêm, giá vé 150.000 đồng cho vé đặt trước, 300.000 đồng cho vé mua ở cửa - 120.000 đồng cho trẻ dưới 15 tuổi. Mọi chi tiết xin liên lạc avdpol@hcm.equatorial.com

Sống và làm việc trong “Trại Lưu Trú Nghệ Sỹ” tại Hà Nội từ tháng Chín đến tháng Mười Một, nghệ sĩ đồ họa theo trường phái Leipzig sẽ ra mắt triển lãm that’s new — what’s next của mình tại Viện Goethe với cuộc nói chuyện vào thứ Sáu ngày 10/10. Triển lãm sẽ kéo dài đến ngày 02/11.

Là một trong những thế hệ nghệ sỹ đồ họa trẻ quan trọng nhất ở Đức, Badock nổi tiếng với các bản in màu khổ lớn của mình, sử dụng các yếu tố in sẵn trong sản xuất, tương tự như bộ đồ chơi xây dựng của một đứa trẻ, phát triển một hình ảnh mới từ các

hình học cơ bản. Các công trình hiện nay của anh được in trên giấy báo, thông qua một quá trình lâu dài liên quan tới các nếp gấp và bản in kẽm chưa qua xử lý. Được tài trợ bởi Cultural Foundation of Saxony Việt Nam, như một phần của giai đoạn trong trại lưu trú, Badock cũng sẽ tổ chức một số hội thảo tại Viện Goethe.

Triển lãm sẽ mở cửa hàng ngày cho đến ngày 02/11 từ 09:00 — 19:00. Viện Goethe nằm tại 56-58 Nguyễn Thái Học, Ba Đình, Hà Nội. Để biết thêm thông tin, xin ghé goethe.de

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 183

The final say

THE FINAL SAY

VIETNAM

The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War Chapter 1: Down From the Highlands For the next 15 issues, Word is proud to present excerpts from Wilfred Burchett’s seminal account of the American War. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett was the only westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the early 1960s.

This work was written in 1964 From the Author’s Forward Apart from my general interest in the peoples of the former states of Indochina and my special sympathy for the South Vietnamese people in their heroic struggle, I had an important, added reason to visit the Liberated Areas and battlefronts of South Vietnam during late 1963 and the first three months of 1964.

The United States is experimenting with a new type of warfare in South Vietnam, so-called ‘special warfare’, the theoretical father of which is General Maxwell Taylor.

Maxwell Taylor’s thesis was that in this nuclear era, the United States must prepare to fight three types of war — global, nuclear war; limited or local wars; and ‘special’ wars. The special thing about the latter is that US combat troops are not involved.

I went there to find out on the spot what was really special in this new military concept and what were the special means the South Vietnamese people had in countering its strategies, tactics and techniques. **********

In the Nam Bo At first I held on to the barrel of the shouldered rifle of the guerilla ahead of me, but soon my eyes could distinguish the white triangle of his haversack and I was able to follow him closely enough to avoid taking a wrong turn on the narrow, winding track. We walked as fast and as noiselessly as the crackling, dried leaves under our rubber sandals would permit.

Finally we halted, haversacks were dumped on the ground. Now there were broad smiles, more handshakes and the

word ‘Nam Bo’. Cigarettes were lit and everyone relaxed. We were again in friendly territory. For me it was an emotional moment because it meant that I was now in the real South, in Nam Bo (Cochinchina), and on my way to what I felt sure would be the highlight of my visit — the outskirts of Saigon where I hoped to touch the very essence of this war at the gates of the capital itself. Conversation now was limited only by language difficulties, my too few words of Vietnamese and their too few words of French.

While we were resting, I noticed two guerillas take out their knives and hack down a small sapling which they proceeded to trim and then attach the cords of my hammock to each end. A new way of slinging my hammock, I thought. Perhaps it is tiger country and they are putting me high up between the forks of two trees. When the cigarettes were finished the unit chief made signs that I should enter what was now transformed into a palanquin, suspended between the shoulders of two guerillas, each about half my size. With some indignation I invited them to test the steely quality of my leg muscles. There were some smiles and appreciative murmurs as a result of which the hammock was untied and the pole thrown away.

I learned next day, when an interpreter turned up, that the guerillas had been informed that I was “old and not used to walking”. This was a slander on my 52 years and previous months’ activities — and the only occasion on which I found the guerillas to be misinformed. **********

wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 185

Next morning I was introduced to a bicycle; despite a dubious start, in the weeks that followed I was to cover about 500 miles on bike, plus quite a few more on foot and in a sampan. My comprehensive training for the trip, incidentally, had not included bicycle riding and nothing could have simulated the reality in any case. A narrow, winding trail, never more than three or four yards straight, with roots and snags everywhere; tiny stumps where the undergrowth had been slashed close to — but not level with — the earth, jabbing at your pedals and angles; overhead creepers waiting to strangle you while you are looking down to avoid a stump; trellises of bamboo banging at your head no matter how low you bent over the handle bars; a multitude of spikes reaching out to rip your shirt and flesh to shreds; a combination of traps, snags, loops and spikes trying to trip you up and unseat you at every turn.

And in the beginning, the bike invariably insisted on taking the very direction one wanted to avoid. Worst of all, added to the previous terrors of the log bridges, was that the bike as well now had to be maneuvered across, usually on one’s shoulders.

But when we emerged after a few hours of snag-ridden, serpentine trail on to what still bore resemblance to a bard-topped highway, I began to appreciate being on wheels again.

The old sense of balance soon returned and the miles began to whizz by. It was better than being in a jeep because with the silence of bike travel we always had plenty of warning of approaching planes and could pull into the under-growth.

Gifts of the USA My first Nam Bo bike was a Mavic, and although it was French-made, the frame and both wheels were stamped with clasped US-Vietnamese hands under the Stars and Stripes and the legend that it was a “gift of the people of the USA”. Just like the bombs and napalm! The same with the haversacks of the guerillas and troops we passed on the road. Haversacks were almost invariably white flour sacks, stamped in big letters: THIS IS A GIFT OF THE PEOPLE OF THE USA. NOT TO BE SOLD OR EXCHANGED. It was ironic, to say the least, to see long lines of troops moving along the road to

186 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com

attack a post or take part in a countermopping up action, each prominently displaying on his back: ‘GIFT OF THE PEOPLE OF THE USA’. In the Nam Bo, it seemed, the clasped hands of friendship were more in evidence in Liberation Front areas than their own yellow-starred red and blue flag. Apart from the captured US weapons themselves, almost every other bit of equipment I came across, from generators to spot-welding machines and X-ray equipment, bore the clasped hands and the standard legend.

“You Are in Saigon Now” The following day the track led through lots of open country and in and out of rubber plantations. Lots of plane activity.

One mademoiselle started very early in the morning, at first in big circles, then tighter and tighter ones with our little group always in the centre, in a patch of small trees and bushes in which we had taken cover when she seemed too inquisitive. The main concern of my companions was that someone may have reported back about a “European with the Viet Cong” and the Americans may conclude I am one of their POWs being transferred.

We had to play ‘hide and seek’, pushing on when the plane’s tail was turned to us, hoping she was blind in that position, hiding in whatever skimpy cover was available when we were clearly under observation.

But she called up a sister plane to have us constantly in view. The two of them buzzed around like blowflies, flying in ever tighter circles and then cutting diagonals through the circles, zooming down lower and lower while we sped along, taking chances, by now trying to reach the comparative shelter of a rubber plantation.

Our security chief feared helicopter troops might be moved into the various clearings and the escort troops were very much at the ready again. By the time the planes had zoomed down to near treetop level we had reached Olympic standards in a final burst of speed that took us into the shade of a rubber plantation — not the same perfect camouflage roof as the jungle gives, but enough to cover our nakedness, of which I had been acutely conscious for the previous hour or so.

The ‘hide and seek’ had gone on for three hours by now; the sun was well up and the sweat pouring down. Our guide kept up a high speed, however, until we reached what was pronounced to be a ‘safe area’. Within three minutes the planes dived down and to my surprise — I did not suspect that reconnaissance planes carried weapons — they dropped napalm bombs on a tiny cluster of huts they had sighted in the plantation, a few hundred yards from where we had slung our hammocks. One of the huts was hit and a nine-year-old girl was killed — which depressed me greatly because the planes were undoubtedly led to those huts by following our trail.

In the afternoon we moved on again, passing within 1,500 yards of a post, some green twigs fortunately indicating which tracks we should not follow. Lots of plane activity, but nothing so specifically in our direction. There were plenty of explosions from high-level and dive bombers, but as the sun dropped low on the horizon this slackened off. I was cautioned to follow the bicycle ahead very precisely because the road was ‘mined’ by the guerillas with spiked traps and some explosive ones.

We entered a village where everything was gay and lively, decorated with banners of the Front and slogans on red cloth hailing the Lunar New Year; there were cosy scenes in the huts as we passed, families taking their evening meal out-of-doors, children playing under the trees, dogs barking at our arrival — the atmosphere of normal, peaceful village life. There was even a rare, friendly mechanical noise — electricpowered irrigation pumps for the localmarket gardens.

I was astonished on being escorted into a hut to see a bottle of John Haig whisky on the table. My host, a wispy-bearded old man whose face was a myriad of wrinkles and who was introduced as a “veteran revolutionary from the November 1940 uprising”, asked whether I drank it neat or with soda. Within seconds he produced a bottle of soda and a basin of ice. The reply to my wonderment as to where the ice came from was: “But you are in Saigon now!”

In fact, we were about six miles from the outskirts.

After a full day’s rest and talks with the

villagers and local guerillas, we set out on a zigzag course which was to bring us still closer to the capital. And about the time the Year of the Cat was transforming itself into the Year of the Dragon — that is about midnight on February 12, 1964 — I was gliding down a small canal towards the golden halo of Saigon. The outboard motor puttered away gently; some escort troops, carbines across their knees and fingers on the triggers, peered earnestly into the darkness; the guide scanned every tree and cross canal.

The motor was cut. We were either very close to the rendezvous point or we had missed it. A minute or two in the wrong direction now would be fatal. The striking of even a match could bring a shattering artillery barrage in reply. As we rounded one bend however, a tiny point of light flashed twice from within the depths of a bamboo grove, and as we veered towards the feathery profile from which the flashes had come. There were some whispered exchanges between shore and boat, as a

result of which we entered a tunnel in the bamboo and within seconds, hands clasped my arms to guide me out of the boat and on to a path.

Without a word spoken apart from those hurried whispers, the escort troops fanned out each side and ahead of me and we were hastening along a path through a pineapple garden towards the next rendezvous point, a grove of trees for our hammocks. We were then about five miles from the southwest tip of Saigon. It was comforting to be assured that the sharp explosions in the immediate vicinity, some of them like rippling bursts of machine gun fire, came from the petards of New Year revelers, ignoring the strict ban that General Nguyen Khanh had ordered on any use of fireworks in welcoming the New Year of the Dragon. ********** Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing us to republish the work of his father

Who was Wilfred Burchett?

There have been many intrepid journalists, but Wilfred Burchett (1911 — 1983) was one of the most unique. His moment came on Sep. 5, 1945, when London’s Daily Express printed his Morse code dispatch on the horrors of Hiroshima — the first public report detailing the postatomic effects on the city.

Although his report was one of the scoops of the century, there was much more to Burchett’s intrepidness.

Starting in 1936, when he left his native Australia to help Jewish refugees escape Hitler’s Germany, he began a career of championing the underdog. Despite turning 60 during the American War he still travelled hundreds of kilometres to cover it, often sheltering in tunnels with NVA and Viet Cong soldiers against attacks by US forces.

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The final say

THE FINAL SAY

HCMC

Resentment on the Road How Niko Savvas learned to stop worrying and love the calm. Illustration by Mads Monsen

I

’m on my home from work, puttering down Ba Thang Hai at a pace that could be generously described as ‘glacial’. An ocean of madness swirls around me — motorbikes spilling over onto sidewalks, buses careening wildly across lanes with no regard for human life, taxis blaring their horns in a cacophonous symphony of ugly noise. In front of me a pack of teenagers balance precariously on silver bicycles, four abreast, chattering mindlessly as they swerve slowly down the street, completely oblivious to the world around them.

By the time I pull into my alley, I am almost catatonic with rage. My mind is buzzing from all the injustices of my 30-minute commute. Each incident is catalogued and filed away with its own bitter little narrative: — The fat woman in pyjamas who turned blindly into my path is a thoughtless, moronic cow — The grimy old man riding the skeleton of a decrepit Honda Cub with no headlights or turn signals is a lazy cheapskate who endangers the lives of others just to save a couple dong

— The young guy in the Land Cruiser speeding recklessly down the wrong lane is the worst kind of homicidal maniac — a filthy rich one I’m a little surprised at the ferocity of my hatred for these people. Even now, when I’m sitting safely on my couch with a whiskey ginger in hand, I cannot stop my mental narratives. I begin to project imagined offenses onto them — the fat woman ignores her crying children while she watches her soaps.

The grimy old man is a purse-snatcher in his spare time. The Land Cruiser’s driver cuts the tails off kittens for fun.

These thoughts are a little too raw, a little too visceral — I need a distraction. So I log onto Facebook, finding solace in cute pet pictures, marriage proposals and ice bucket challenges. It’s just a temporary fix, but I need it right now. I’d rather be numb than angry.

Social Media Salve At some point during my descent into the social media wormhole, I see that a friend has shared This is Water; a speech by the late author David Foster Wallace. I love Wallace

“There is a fundamental difference between Asian and western cultures. In the west, we are considerate, but we are not tolerant.

Asian cultures are not so considerate — the people who cut you off in traffic, for example.

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“I’m tired of floating through life here with anger and annoyance as my default emotions.

I’m terrified of becoming one of the sour old expats whom I ridiculed so self-righteously when I first arrived in Saigon” — this will make the perfect diversion.

20 minutes later, I am staring at the computer, my eyes scanning the same sentences again and again: “If you’re automatically sure that you know what reality is, and you are operating on your default setting, then you, like me, probably won’t consider possibilities that aren’t annoying and miserable. But if you really learn how to pay attention, then you will know there are other options. It will actually be within your power to experience a crowded, hot, slow, consumerhell type situation as not only meaningful, but sacred…”

Wallace’s words make perfect sense: I can choose how to interpret the actions of those around me. I can imagine that the guy blowing through a red light is an impatient jerk, or that he is racing to the hospital for the birth of his first child. The problem is that Explanation #1 seems so much more reasonable. It’s my habit to assign negative motivations to people’s actions because… well, it’s my habit. I don’t know why I do it.

What I do know is this — I want it to stop. I’m tired of floating through life here with anger and annoyance as my default emotions. I’m terrified of becoming one of the sour old expats whom I ridiculed so selfrighteously when I first arrived in Saigon.

I don’t want to look back on my time here with bitterness and regret.

Potholes on the Path to Enlightenment For a moment I’m quite pleased with myself for having such noble, compassionate thoughts. But then an insidious little voice inside my head chimes in: “Sure, Niko, it’s great to imagine yourself becoming a kinder, gentler person. That’s super of you. But how are you actually going to do it?”

I’m stumped. Should I count to ten before screaming obscenities at the slow-moving bicyclists in front of me? Should I visualise a peaceful island beach when I’m nearly T-boned by a reckless taxi driver? I’ve tried these methods before. They’re useless, like using dreamcatchers to treat cancer. I don’t need flowery thoughts and empty mantras. I need something that works.

Like meditation. Of course! I need to start meditating again. Monks meditate. Monks are peaceful. Monks are happy. I want to be like them (minus the shaved head). The only

problem is — where can I go to meditate?

When I lived in the US, I practiced meditation at a local centre several times a week. Upon moving to Vietnam, my practice gradually petered out — without the guidance of my teacher and support of fellow meditators, it was hard to stay motivated. Practising halfheartedly, alone in my tiny apartment, I slipped back into familiar habits and patterns of thought.

There are hundreds of pagodas in Saigon, of course, and thousands of monks — but how many of them speak English? How many of them can explain the principles and techniques of meditation in a clear, informative way? In search of this elusive information, I turn to the wisest guru of them all — Google.

Soon I find what I am looking for — ‘Vipassana Vietnam’. The organisation practises a form of insight meditation taught by the late SN Goenka, a non-sectarian teacher from Myanmar. Its technique is simple — seated in the traditional crosslegged posture, the practitioner directs his attention to his breathing, eventually honing in on a small region between the nostrils and upper lip. By focusing so intently, the mind ceases its agitations and achieves a peaceful ease — imagine your grandma happily knitting a scarf for hours. It feels good to focus. Everybody knows that. It’s just really, really easy to forget.

I contact the centre, and a helpful assistant named Anh Huynh puts me in contact with two teachers, Klaus and Nadia Helwig. A Franco-German couple who were introduced to Vipassana while living in Japan over 30 years ago, they seem like the perfect people to answer my questions.

A Difference of Degrees Several days later, we speak via Skype (Klaus and Nadia had just finished leading a meditation retreat in France). I tell them about the struggles of everyday life in Saigon. I describe the frustration of my daily commute — how dozens of times each day, I am confronted with the thoughtless, selfish actions of others. Klaus nods patiently — a seasoned nomad himself, he knows what I am talking about. “There is a fundamental difference between Asian and western cultures. In the west, we are considerate, but we are not tolerant. We hold the door

open for the person behind us, then become angry when they don’t say ‘thank you’.

Asian cultures are not so considerate — the people who cut you off in traffic, for example. But they are tolerant — how often does somebody scream at you when you cut them off?”

I have to admit that he has a point. But still… these people are putting my life, and the lives of others, at serious risk. In this case, my anger seems entirely rational and justified. How am I supposed to not feel angry toward reckless motorists?

Nadia answers, “Of course you become angry. In fact, you cannot choose to not become angry. It is a blind mental reaction.

When you practice Vipassana, however, you learn not to suppress the anger but to observe what happens in your body when you become angry. You notice the tightness, the agitation, the discomfort. You observe them objectively. Eventually, you learn to stop the momentum of your anger before it consumes you.”

It sounds lovely. But part of me is skeptical — how is focusing on the breath supposed to stop me from becoming angry?

In some meditative traditions, practitioners conjure fantastical images with their minds and chant hypnotic mantras. I can see how that might work — replace the negative thoughts with positive ones. Simply paying attention to your breath, on the other hand, seems deviously simple. I want them to convince me that the Goenka method of Vipassana is best. How are their techniques superior to others? Why are they right, and everybody else wrong?

Klaus chuckles, and instantly I realise I’ve asked a stupid question. Still, he proceeds gently. “We are not missionaries… we do not evangelise. You cannot convince people that meditation is right for them. If they are interested, they will come of their own will.

If not, no words of mine will change their minds.”

For a moment I am silent. Nadia chimes in. “For many years, people learned of our courses only through word-of-mouth. We have no billboards, no flyers — it was only recently that we even set up a website. We do not seek converts or customers. People come when they are ready. Sometimes they do not even know what they are ready for… they just know they are ready for a change.”

It’s getting late, so I thank them and log off Skype. Nadia’s words are still echoing in my head as I pull up their website and register for a ten-day silent meditation course in October. I’ve never done one before — I have no idea what to expect.

But I know that I’m ready for a change.

And now, finally, I know where to begin.

Vipassana Vietnam offers ten-day meditation courses in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. All courses are offered free of charge — beginners are welcome. For more information, visit vn.dhamma.org

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The final say

THE FINAL SAY SHORT STORY

The Agony of The Feet Most of us who ride motorbikes have been in scrape-ups, life-altering things in the moment that don’t seem so bad when they pass. For Dara O Foghlu, it was the moment when doubt seeped in — and something else seeped out. Photos by Glen Riley

H

aving a motorcycle accident in Vietnam is inevitable, so I was not overly surprised when it finally happened. In the six months I’d been living here, there was no one I knew who didn’t have a scar to show or a story to tell.

My accident hardly counts because I didn’t even come off the bike. But just to get it out of the way, here’s what happened: a guy with two large metal bins attached to his bike — one on either side — came towards me from the other direction, and the bin closest to me smashed off my foot. That was all. It was over in a second. No explosions, no screeching tires, no brawl at the side of the road. In fact, neither of us even stopped.

However, three weeks after the initial injury the swelling around the wound would still not go down, and after another night in the pub (exhaustive research had proved that alcohol alone would not heal the damn thing), I decided to soak my foot in a bucket of boiled and salted water. Roughly circular and about the diameter of a penny, the wound was run around on all sides by a raised whitish ring, and beyond that the skin was pink and bulging and felt as if there was a great tide of blood in there waiting for release, ticking under the pressure of my pulse.

Playing with the Wound After I had soaked my foot for about 40 minutes, I pressed the area around the wound

and a trickle of dark blood seeped out from its southern pole. I pressed a little harder then, urged on by my morbid curiosity and a natural sense that somehow this was the right thing to do. The entire wound itself seemed to raise up then like a spring-loaded button, and with both hands firmly clamped around my foot, it suddenly erupted with a black jelly of clotted blood.

The thickness and viscosity of the stuff resembled nothing more than blackcurrant jam, and I was at once horrified and satisfied at the sight of it. I pressed again and rolled the skin with my thumb from the back edges of the wound like you would squeeze out toothpaste from its tube, spilling out more and more of the clotted black jam. I took some of it and pressed it between my fingers and sniffed. I expected the rank odour of anoxic death, but thankfully it just smelled faintly of iron.

When I had squeezed the last of it out, the blood, now red, welled up freely from the hole, and when I put my foot back in the bucket, fresh blood curled out into the water in a macabre and enchanting slow dance.

I removed my foot from the pink water and dabbed the wound dry with my last remaining piece of sterile gauze to examine it under the light of my reading lamp. I had remade my wound by bursting out the clotted blood. I had, in fact, blown one side of the scabbed cap off it, and the scab now only functioned as a hinged lid. Where the lid

lifted up there was now a gaping maw that reached deep — far too deep — into my own foot. This black hole would draw things into it, because that is the nature of holes, they have a will to be filled.

I tried to join one side of the hole to the other by looping medical tape around my foot and hooking it under my pinkie toe to hoist it up against the natural angle of the joint. This was, I knew, only a short-term solution to keep the wound closed while I made my way to the hospital.

On the Operating Table At the hospital I sat up on a trolley and, surrounded by one doctor, two nurses, two interns, a security guard, and a couple who had also been in a crash, I removed the blood-stained surgical tape to a chorus of ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhs’. There followed a brief silence where we all stared into that black abyss and collectively acknowledged the fact that, no, this was not good. The doctor took some gauze dipped in iodine, and, pinching the brown and yellow scab, lifted it clean off. What we saw then was worse than what any of us had in mind. There seemed to be no flesh in there at all. There was only space, far too much horrible empty space and some thin straw-coloured fibres that I supposed was sinew or a nerve ganglion or perhaps just something rotten that had no business being there at all.

The girl who had been in a motorcycle

“I removed the blood-stained surgical tape to a chorus of ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhs’. There followed a brief silence where we all stared into that black abyss and collectively acknowledged the fact that, no, this was not good”

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“Three weeks after the initial injury the swelling around the wound would still not go down, and after another night in the pub (exhaustive research had proved that alcohol alone would not heal the damn thing), I decided to soak my foot in a bucket of boiled and salted water”

crash and had scuffed feet and grazes trailing down her arms and legs, tutted and shook her head. “No good,” she said. And again, “No good.” Her boyfriend, who had no visible injuries, brought his hand to his chin and made a thoughtful expression as if this was a problem he had the solution to. The security guard inhaled sharply and said something in Vietnamese that I didn’t understand. I looked up at the gallery of faces standing about me and waited for someone to make a decision. Finally, the doctor — probably picking up on my snowballing sense of panic — said, “Don’t worry.”

Within five minutes I was in an adjoining operating theatre where the surgeon was meticulously painting my foot with a wad of gauze soaked in iodine. He made careful strokes in between my toes and in a straight line across the top of my foot. The intern on the left of the operating table asked me to lie back fully, whereupon he began a running commentary of everything I couldn’t see happening to my foot.

“He is putting on iodine to serialise the wound.”

The other intern, who was on my right, corrected him, “Sterilise.”

“Yes. To sterilise the wound.”

“Your English is very good,” I said.

“No, no,” he said modestly, “not good.”

I looked up for a moment to see the surgeon apply his final brushstroke with an artist’s flourish and the nurse carry over a

tray of surgical cutlery: tweezers, scrapers, scalpels, that sort of thing. I turned my head away then, because to anticipate what these instruments can do is often worse than the real and actual moment of pain they create.

Sometimes, however, the pain is worse.

“The doctor now will cut away the dead tissue. No need for lidocaine. It won’t pain.”

Prior to this I was told that there would be local anaesthetic, but evidently there had been a change of plan.

“Oh. Okay then,” I said. I will believe anything a doctor says.

“Don’t worry,” he added. This “don’t worry” tactic was obviously something heavily reinforced during medical training.

And although I was glad to hear it every time, I was beginning to think it was just perfunctory reassurance without any real basis in fact.

A minute later, and with me writhing and doing my level best not to yelp, the doctor decided that lidocaine was in fact necessary.

I sat up and looked him in the eye. “I agree,” I said.

When the dead tissue had been scraped and cut away, there followed two sharp and deep pains that I suppose was the suture entering either side of the wound. Then the drawing together of the string like a corset being pulled tight.

Before the surgeon dressed my wound, I took a good look at his work. A taut black equator ran across the once circular wound

and pulled it together, like a planet imploding longitudinally.

Home Alone On my way out, I said thank you and goodbye to all the doctors and nurses and the security guard and the couple who were now being examined by one of the interns.

The other intern, the one who gave the running commentary on my procedure, walked me outside to the kiosk where you pay. I hobbled slowly and gingerly beside him carrying my helmet as he explained the drugs I needed (antibiotics, antiinflammatories, pain-killers), and the various tinctures and patches to clean the wound.

When I had paid my bill, we stood outside in the hospital car park. It was close to one o’clock in the morning and still warm.

He said, “You come here along.”

I said, “What?”

He said, “You should have someone to... to...”

“Ah yes. I came here alone.”

“You don’t have someone take you home?”

“No, I have no-one,” I said, suddenly surprised by how sad that statement was.

He looked at the motorbike helmet in my hand and then down at my foot. “Will you drive okay?”

I flexed my toes by about a micrometre.

“Sure,” I said. “Don’t worry.”

Dara O Foghlu is an Irish writer living in Hanoi

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The last call The president of the Singapore Business Group in Ho Chi Minh City, Norman Lim gives us his own personal insight into working and living in Vietnam.

Photo by Kyle Phanroy I came to Vietnam because… of work. In fact I

have been away from Singapore for more than 17 years. Prior to Ho Chi Minh City, I was working in Brunei Darussalam. I was offered a choice to work in Tianjin (China) and Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam), I chose the latter and the rest is history.

Being a specialist in Green Field operations, I have started businesses from ground up for several Fortune 500 MNCs in Vietnam.

The current economic climate is also not conducive to do this.

Since the global financial crisis in 2008, Vietnam has been creeping her way to recovery. Gone are the days of double digit GDP growth.

Working in Ho Chi Minh City is… refreshing. Despite

Getting things done in Vietnam… is equally challeng-

the fact that I have been away for so long and moving around, I thought I had seen it all. But Ho Chi Minh City is such a unique city. This is the kingdom of scooters and the bustling traffic never seems to stop. The people are very friendly, too. The country has a very young population and they are always eager to learn.

Doing business in Vietnam… poses its own set

of problems. Though Vietnam is still a promising destination for foreign investments, the authorities urgently need to create a business environment friendly to investors if the country is to continue attracting FDI. The World Bank ranked Vietnam 99 in the Ease of Doing Business Index 2013 as compared with Singapore at number 1.

The things I love about living in Vietnam are… the

food and the people. Being a true blooded Singaporean, going on a food trail is important for where we work and live. Vietnam has a great variety of food.

The things that frustrate me are… the difficulties in

starting a business in Vietnam.

ing. The short span of economic reform [since Doi Moi in 1986] means that many of the local staff don’t have enough work exposure at an international level. Expecting your Vietnamese colleagues or staff to gear up to speed to the same level as that from our home country is a bit of challenge.

Culturally I find that Vietnam… has a long and rich

history. In fact, they have one of the longest histories among South East Asian countries. Vietnamese culture is heavily influenced

by Confucian social and moral ethics. Most if not all the Chinese festivals are observed by the Vietnamese like the Lunar New Year and Mid-Autumn Festival. Being a Singaporean Chinese, I can associate and assimilate myself into the local culture without any problems.

The differences with Singapore… are that we have

become a very modern society with a heavy western cultural influence. Some of the Confucian social and moral ethics are observed more closely by the Vietnamese than the Singaporean Chinese.

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The lifestyle in Vietnam… is very much like 1960s and 1970s Singapore. When my parents visit, it is like déjà vu for them.

The food stalls and coffee by the sidewalk, the shop houses, the hawkers and pedallers are all too familiar to them.

The balance between work and play in Vietnam… is much better than the hectic lifestyle we have back in Singapore. There is much more time for yourself and your family.

The Singapore Business Group’s role… is to be a

platform for Singaporeans working in Ho Chi Minh City, to get together for social as well as business opportunities. We have been incorporated for 22 years and have been engaging our counterparts from other countries as well as Vietnamese at all levels.

For more information on the Ho Chi Minh City chapter of the Singapore Business Group, click on sbghcm.org