Word Vietnam September 2014 by Word Vietnam

contents

wordvietnam.com

SEPTEMBER 2014

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092

058

THE TALK

INSIDER

010 / The Facebook Generation

054 / Savage Independence

It’s good to talk

011 / The Big Five

056 / Two Lives Saved

016 / The End of an Era

The decline of the Saigon Tax Centre

050 / This is the Month that Was

August was hungry ghost month

Vietnamese crews breakdance their way to glory

The vital work of CMI and The Heart Foundation

BRIEFINGS In Hanoi, motorbike taxis now come with a meter

092 / B-Boy World Cup

How arts café Manzi is changing the scene

Events to look out for this month

014 / Xe Om So

CULTURE

058 / Upwardly Mobile

Urban regeneration in Phu Nhuan

062 / 101 Things to Love About Vietnam

The bottle’s half full

078 / Ha Giang Special

The most beautiful province in Vietnam?

096 / Video Blogging in Vietnam

The rise of a new medium

EAT & DRINK 098 / A Wise Draft

Draft beer is suddenly getting popular. So are beer towers

104 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

Hanoi gets itself a tasty burrito

105 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: Mien Tron

FASHION 014

078

106 / Futura

A modernist backdrop for a futurist look

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contents

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116

186

HCMC 030 / To-Do List

TRAVEL 112 / Teaching English in Sudan

Darfur, desert and Sharia law. Not to be sniffed at

116 / Give Vientiane a Chance

Tokyo’s Haneda airport does it differently

126 / Travel Promos HANOI 040 / To-Do List 048 / Overscene 127 / Hanoi City Guide 130 / Recalling Hanoi 132 / Coffee Cup 134 / Food Promos

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145 / HCMC City Guide 154 / Coffee Cup

Who needs Vang Vieng anyway?

120 / Airport Stories

038 / Overscene

158 / Top Eats 160 / The Empty Wok 172 / Food Promos COLUMNS 136 / The Alchemist 138 / The Therapist 142 / Medical Buff

144 / Book Buff 148 / Business Buff

150 / Body and Temple 162 / A World of Good 164 / Know Your Business 174 / Student Eye 175 / Tieng Viet FINAL SAY 180 / Dognapped

Don’t get caught napping

182 / Tracking the Yeti

Bigfoot and rebel journalist Wilfred Burchett

186 / Taking the Plunge

Learning to swim the hard way

188 / Always Keep Ice in Your Beer

Just in time for the wedding season

192 / The Last Call

Snoop, Harvey Keitel and cocktails. Lola from Last Call tells all

CONTRIBUTORS

This month we asked our team what they love most about Vietnam. Here is how they responded. DAVID HARRIS Staff Photographer I enjoy the rain and thunderstorms, I like the way they clear the dirt from the air and leave everything fresh and clean. It reminds me of summer days at home. ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor For me it’s the collaborative spirit, the sense of openness and welcoming. It was a shock to me, coming from the competitive east coast of the US. If you say you play music there, people will ask you to justify it — “Are you in a band?” Here, people just say, “Cool, what do you play?" NICK ROSS Chief Editor Vietnam’s been good to me. Very good. It’s given me a family. It’s given me a job that I love. I couldn’t have had the opportunities I’ve had here elsewhere. And for that reason, what isn’t there to love about Vietnam? KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor I love the madness; you could even say I’m addicted to it. A man at a bar once phrased it perfectly, “Vietnam is chaotic harmony.” This is why I love Vietnam. JULIE VOLA Photographer My favourite thing about Vietnam is the landscape and the quality of the light. VU HA KIM VY Marketing & Illustration I’m not a drunkard, but I can get drunk whenever and wherever I want in Vietnam. MATT BENDER Writer The little geckos. My first trip to Southeast Asia was five years ago and I remember being at some little dive restaurant, seeing a gecko shoot across the wall and thinking, “I don’t want to live in a place where there aren’t geckos shooting across the wall ever again.” HOA LE Staff Editor Nuoc mam. I can’t imagine eating nem without it! NIKO SAVVAS Writer I love wandering around the markets, looking at all the exotic produce and haggling with the old ladies, then going home and ordering a pizza instead.

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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com

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HOA LE Staff Editor hoale@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

DAVID HARRIS Staff Photographer david@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

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KATIE JACOBS Writer The layers of history and complexities that are evident just walking around the streets — and nem cua, and bicycles overflowing with flowers, and drinking beer on the street. Wait, I can only pick one!

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

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Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Võ Thị Kim Thanh Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Bao Ross Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

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In đến 15.000 cuốn, khổ 20.5 x 27cm In tại Công Ty TNHH MTV In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Số ĐKKHXB: 1476-2014/CXB/02-127/LĐ QĐXB SỐ: 58/QĐCN-LĐ. Ngày 29/08/2014. In xong và nộp lưu chiểu Qúy 3 năm 2014.

The prelude

lthough well received, our last few issues have been quite serious, which is why we decided to do something lighter this month. It’s a simple concept — to create a cover story that helps us to remember what makes Vietnam the country it is. The idea came after a recent trip back to the UK. I normally love going home and get great pleasure returning

to London, the city I grew up in. But for the first time since I left Blighty all those years ago, I found myself having to deal with the National Health Service (NHS), the local authorities and receptionists taught to block and be unconstructive. It was a nightmare. It brought to mind a famous scene from a recent British comedy series, Little Britain. A female bank teller, played by David Walliams, gives advice

to customers. But every time she enters information into the computer, she gets a negative response. Her retort to the customer? “The computer says noooo.” That is how it felt getting things done in the UK, the fourth richest country in the world. In a nation that we call ‘developed,’ when it comes to bureaucracy it is anything but. And this is one of the reasons I love Vietnam. I can get

things done here. Yes, there are hiccups — I hear the complaints. We’ve all heard them. I've experienced them myself. But when it comes to day-to-day communications, it’s easy, it’s fast, and the computer almost never says ‘noooo’. This issue is our homage to everything we love about Vietnam, and to everything that makes this country unique. We hope you enjoy it! — Nick Ross, Chief Editor

THIS MONTH'S COVER Cover by DH Advertising Design by Vu Ha Kim Vy

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The Elements of Style

Cover Story

I’ve just seen your publication and The Elements of Style (August 2014) was really impressive. I particularly like the presentation and the content of the story. — NTL

The Vung Tau Hydrofoil There is talk of the hydrofoil service [between Ho Chi Minh City and Vung Tau] restarting. The operators are saying that their Russian-built hydrofoils were constructed circa 1995 and are therefore 20 years old. The fact is that the larger boats with three compartments and two engines are the Meteor class hydrofoil of which 400 were constructed between 1961 and 1991. Production ceased when the Soviet Union collapsed, and although a few have been built subsequently, they were already by then using an outdated design as evidenced by the riveted construction. It will be interesting to see what transpires regarding the maximum boat age allowed if the service is to restart. But if 25 years is stipulated, then the Meteor boats will not qualify. — CE

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I loveeeeee your cover story about The Elements of Style in the August issue!!! Very thorough words about the past. Actually the article comes out right at the time when I'm so into this topic. Thanks a lot for the fantastic work. — CM

The Elements of

hen we decided to take on an architecture focus for our cover story, we wanted to avoid the quick-hit approach. “Every piece of infrastructure — every building — is on a trajectory,” says urban explorer Michael Cook in a conversation with BLDGBLOG’s Geoff Manaugh. “You’re experiencing it at just one moment in its very extended life.”

Style

This is the problem with looking at architecture, at the buildings that surround us — we tend to see them at one point in time, without their historical context and without any notion of the grand or not so grand ideas that were behind their creation. In doing so, we forget the problems its architects were trying to solve, and what those solutions evolved into. “Even among explorers,” Cook says, “we don’t pay enough attention to process.”

Our cities’ skylines are like libraries of ambition and idealism, some in service of their particular moment in time, some with guiding wisdom for future generations. Without this context, we’re writing words best published in guidebooks. Or, as Cook says later in the interview, “We’re taking postcard shots of the sublime.” In putting this cover story together, we attempted to avoid that mistake through taking a closer look at the buildings that make up Vietnam’s two great metropolises. Our cities look like they do for specific reasons, reasons that are connected with everything that makes up the identity of Vietnam. As Manaugh says at a different point, “Architecture [at its most fundamental level] is literature, poetry and mythology all in one.”

Words by Jura Cullen, Katie Jacobs and Ed Weinberg

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Top front cover this month. Loved the balance of colours and the detail you used in there. It was perfect. — DG Great issue. Please pass on my compliments to the team. — DB

Wasted Time Your story on electronic communication is very accurate (Wasted Time, p10, August 2014). My wife and I spent nine days in Japan and while I can praise many things they do, as well as their honesty and efficiency, I was unable

to be online unless in a hotel lobby or at rare hot spots in the underground shopping areas. While they [the government and private companies] are ‘working on it’ and do offer alternatives, in fact what does currently exist seems to be from

the Stone Age when it comes to modern levels of communication. In room Wi-Fi was pay-for, and even getting on via Starbucks required an outside connection and response time. By the time we learned of alternative ways it was time to go. — RD

the talk

very country that develops fast goes through two phases. The first is the physical phase — the structural and infrastructural transition of a nation from what it was to what it will be. Part of this includes increased individual wealth and a wider access to goods or services that were previously unavailable or available to only a select few. The second phase is social and cultural. It is the phase that sees people change socially, the period where the mindset of the past alters itself into the mindset of the present and the future. It is where conservative values clash with contemporary, and where a tug-of-war takes place between what should be allowed and what shouldn’t. It’s one step forward, two steps back. It can be rewarding; it can also be painful. While in Vietnam the first phase continues apace, so more recently the second phase has kicked in. It is the phase led by smartphones, digital media and Facebook. It is news read digitally rather than in newspapers, communication through social media and messaging apps rather than through standard phone calls or just catching up with each other on the street. And it is a change in tastes, a change in sensibilities, a questioning of the accepted wisdom, a change in knowledge and understanding, a change in worldview.

The Book At the end of 2009 we wrote extensively about the problems with using Facebook in Vietnam. The issue was that the powers that be just didn’t know what to do with it, this phenomenon that was taking the country by storm. Here was this website that seemed to strike a chord with the very nature of being Vietnamese — at the time which, by country, Facebook’s growth rate was fastest in Vietnam. Despite difficulty of access, its popularity continued to soar. Make ‘the book’ undesirable, and it became something to be desired. The five years since have seen an explosion in the site’s usage. Vietnam has 18 million Facebook users — 20 percent of the population. And Vietnamese of all ages, particularly the young, seem to spend their lives on the website. The key to its popularity, though, is not just networking, making friends and keeping in touch with people. It’s Facebook’s troll-like ability to let you speak your mind. And if you so wish, through faking your avatar, to speak it anonymously. Whereas a decade ago people watched their tongues, especially in public, now people seem to do the opposite. Saying what you think in a public forum is an attractive prospect, especially from the safety of your computer or smartphone. In Vietnam, people, especially the young, have taken to this like a fish takes to water. Now they see self-expression as the norm. The younger generation of today is growing up with a freedom of speech, a freedom of expression that was unknown in the past. Yes, there are boundaries — but aren’t there everywhere? It’s something that must be lauded — no longer are automaton-like thought processes the norm. This has been led by access not only to Facebook, but also to LinkedIn and Twitter and Skype and Viber and many more. Forget Generation X or The Beat Generation. Today’s Vietnamese youth are the Facebook Generation, a generation brought up on a different worldview to that of the not-so-distant past. — Nick Ross

The Facebook Generation With the popularity of ‘the book’ in Vietnam has come immense change

the big five

FRIDAY

GOETHE1. INSTITUT’S GERMAN FILM FEST

For the fifth year, the Goethe-Institut is bringing the best new films of German cinema to Vietnam, and they’ll be screened in five locations around the country including Saigon, Hanoi and Danang. There are films for everyone — as evidenced by the 50,000 filmgoers who came out to last year’s edition — and a special workshop with filmmakers Constanze Knoche and Leis Bagdach at Saigon’s Hoa Sen University on Sep. 8. The two write screenplays for various successful German television series and have shot a number of feature films and documentaries together, including the film The Visitors. Free tickets are available at GoetheInstitut and at the cinemas screening the movies — (Cinebox, 212 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3, HCMC and The National Cinema Centre, 87 Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Hanoi). For the full schedule, head to goethe.de

TUESDAY SHANE FILAN

Love him or hate him, the former lead singer of Westlife is likely to get the teens wooing like deranged peacocks when he performs at Cargo Bar on Sep. 16. And it won’t be just the teens getting down to tracks from Filan’s album, You and Me, his debut solo offering. It will also be anyone else who maintains an affection for that once oh-sopopular Irish boy band. Might just be the whole of Vietnam. Tickets start at VND500,000 (early bird) and rise to VND3 million (which includes the ability to meet and greet Shane Filan). To book go to ticketbox.vn and may your dreams forever be filled with images of Westlife…

THE LARGEST SAILING EVENT IN THE WORLD

In memory of recently-deceased Olympic gold medalist Andrew ‘Bart’ Simpson, a worldwide effort is on to launch the most sailcrafts in the world, in the name of charity and the pursuit of a Guinness World Record. Vietnam’s contribution is organised by Jibes, and happening in Mui Ne all day. Dinghies and windsurfers are all encouraged to take part, as are sailors and non-sailors. Although it’s all in the service

FRANK GOSSNER: THE ARCHAEOLOGIST OF AFRICAN VINYL

“The man has undergone one of the more interesting musical metamorphoses that we’ve come across, transforming himself from a slightly sinister spinner of sexaholic go-go beat at the ’90s sleazefest Vampyros Lesbos into one of the world’s foremost collectors of rare ’70s- and ’80s-era Afrobeat, Nigerian disco, Ghana highlife and the like,” wrote Bruce Tantrum of Time Out New York. It’s true. From one of the leading lights of the intercontinental club scene to small nightspots in the Guinean capital Conakry, Frank’s career has run the gamut of musical experimentation. With his ridiculously rare collection of globetrotting vinyl, he’s bringing Saigon a set that is unique the world over. Frank Gossner brings his Voodoo Funk to The Observatory — cnr. La Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, HCMC. The show is co-sponsored by Everyone’s a DJ. Doors are called for 10pm, entry VND100,000, support by Dan Lo. Get a preview at voodoofunk.com

21 SUNDAY

SATURDAY

FROM BACH TO THE BEATLES

of fun, the press release does point out, “Few if any windsurfs have registered worldwide, so Vietnam windsurfers stand good chances in world leaderboard rankings! Few countries in Asia are signed up for the challenge.” Register for the event by emailing juliashaw2@gmail.com by Sep. 12, with dinghy/windsurf ability or experience, equipment preference and any other relevant details or questions, reconfirm on Sep. 15 if no typhoons are forecast. It’s VND500,000 for adults, VND100,000 for kids

No, you’re not seeing double. The Katona Twins are genuinely one of the world’s best classical guitar duos, known in particular for their effortless ability to move between classical and more popular music genres. Performing at The Conservatory of Music (112 Nguyen Du, Q1, HCMC) on Sep. 27, this is a unique chance to see this prize-winning act who have played at some of the world’s most renowned venues. Even more interesting is their set. Including works by Handel, J.S. Bach and Albeniz, there will also be tunes by the likes of Tears for Fears, The Beatles and of course Queen, with the night finishing up with a little Bohemian Rhapsody. Free tickets are available from Goethe-Institut, 18 Duong So 1, CuXa Do Thanh, Q3, HCMC, from Sep. 20

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briefings

BRIEFINGS

HANOI

At the beginning of August, Viet Pride staged its biggest show of solidarity yet

ride parades are a worldwide phenomenon, reflecting the acceptance of LGBT individuals in their communities. In places where identifying as LGBT is more charged, these events take on a political character — sometimes turning confrontational. In more accepting circumstances, pride marches turn into celebrations. So it says a lot that Viet Pride in Hanoi, entering its third year, was marked more by cultural events than it was by political stands. Viet Pride kicked off on Aug. 3 with an early morning bike ride through the streets of Hanoi. More than 1,000 people took part in the event, which headed to the American Club Hanoi for the after-party and a day of solidarity.

Celebrating Differences and Similarities The after-party was as diverse as the crowd, with flea markets, live music, modern dance and well-known local DJ Ngoc Mobile blasting out uplifting dance tunes to the large crowd till mid-afternoon. It was an event as much about celebrating a landmark for the LGBT community in Vietnam and its allies as it was about just having a good time.

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What really stood out was, regardless of people’s beliefs, preferences or origins, everyone came together to enjoy the differences of being human. It was a real show of giving people the space to be themselves, no matter how others feel about it. This year’s special guest was Stuart Milk, representing the Harvey Milk Foundation. Harvey Milk was the first openly homosexual political candidate to be elected to public office in California, as depicted in the Academy Award-winning films The Times of Harvey Milk (1984) and Milk (2009). One of most widely recognised LGBT rights groups internationally, the Harvey Milk Foundation’s show of support was another sign that Vietnam’s progress on the issue is registering. Families, the young and old, local and international, all came together to join in the festivities. As the American Embassy’s Michael Turner says, “This is about people taking pride in who they are... [to] the Vietnamese LGBT community, we’re with you.”

The Challenges that Await Although there is still a long way to go, Viet

Pride is a massive step in the right direction. In Vietnam, there’s a lack of understanding and fear of what homosexuality is or about how LGBT people act. There is a sense that being openly gay will bring dishonour to LGBT people’s families, and many are pressured into traditional marriage. But on the hopeful side, there is little physical violence against people who identify as LGBT in Vietnam, and there are few stories of LGBT-related suicides like in other countries. The flip side is unfortunate, if not all too common. Many LGBT people in Vietnam live double lives in a state of fear, shame and guilt. They hide their true selves from their families and friends, often resulting in damaging behaviour and mental health issues. There is a real ‘don’t ask, don’t tell’ attitude here. If more of Vietnam’s LGBT community came out and supported Viet Pride, the numbers would be in the thousands. — Tim McMahon Viet Pride 2014 was supported by the Civil Rights Defenders, the American Embassy, the Netherlands Embassy, Goethe-Institut, 6+, The Closet Hanoi, UNDP and USAID, in collaboration with media partners Utopia, AsiaOut and Hanoi Grapevine

Provided by Tim McMahon

Faces of Pride

briefings

o S m O Xe S FING BRIE

I HANO

Motorbike taxis in Hanoi now come with a meter

t’s early morning and we’ve just descended the night bus in My Dinh Bus Station. I want to take one of the new star-spangled xe oms that come with a meter. I’ve seen them, I’ve heard about them and the feedback is positive. There’s no argument about the cost or the mileage and it’s a set fee, dependent on distance. I say as much to the men gathering around us like flies, touting for work. I’m ignored, again and again. “Where are you going, I’ll tell you how much it costs,” grunts one man, not once but four, five, six times. I explain again, I’m still ignored. Some of the men are taxi drivers, some flirt with the xe om trade. Some are there to watch. An argument breaks out. “Can’t you hear the Tay,” says one, the early morning Hanoi heat starting to rise. “F___ your mother, this is my gig,” responds the other, the man hassling me the most. His eyes are sleepfilled red and his hair is stuck to his head like grease. I’d be reluctant to get on the back of his bike even if I had no choice. We walk round to the other side of the bus to find our luggage in the hold. A xe om rocks up, a xe om with a meter. The friend I’m with is amazed. Did she think I’d been kidding? “I’ve never seen one of these before,” she exclaims. She’s as excited at the novelty as I am. But it’s not the novelty that makes this such a good innovation. It’s the fact that customers, the passengers paying the fare, won’t get scammed. Unless the meter is tampered with, of course.

A Xe Om Revolution Appearing at the beginning of the year in Hanoi, xe om

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so have begun proliferate. There are now numerous companies bringing together otherwise disparate xe om drivers. Using cellphones to communicate, together they teamwork the trade like a taxi company. In return for providing work, the drivers rent a meter and pay 30 percent commission to the company. Tax is paid by the company, and the remaining 70 percent of the fare the drivers keep for themselves. My driver takes me on a back route through My Dinh and then Cau Giay to link up with Hoang Quoc Viet. “Do you understand eastern culture?” he asks me, having switched from politics. “Fairly well,” I reply. But as we talk, my knowledge is obviously not good enough for him — I haven’t read the key pieces of literature by the likes of Nguyen Du. “I’ll give you a copy,” he tells me. “I’ll bring it round to you. When are you at home?” Trust me to get a cultured xe om driver. Night, I tell him. When we arrive in Xuan Dieu the meter reads just over 11km. At VND6,000 a kilometer, that’s VND70,000 to me and you. I give him two fifties and ask for VND20,000 change. A tip. He searches everywhere. He’s left his wallet at home. “I’ll bring it round later, with the literature for you to read,” he says. “Sure,” I reply. Normally I would search out some change, but in this instance I don’t bother. My instinct tells me the man’s error is genuine — if he does or doesn’t turn up later I really don’t mind. He’s trying to make an honest living. And that is why the concept of xe om so seems to work. — Nick Ross

briefings

BRIEFINGS

HANOI

Attimi: Images of the Ordinary Barbara Pellizzari turns her eye from the city scenes of her last show to the moments happening within

Wonder Wrapped in Workaday Reality Finding wonder in the ‘Vietnamese normal’ is what guides her work. “I decided to represent all the things I was amazed by,” she says. “For example in Europe, orchids are considered like a very valuable, sophisticated thing. Here you have orchids

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everywhere. You go on the most modest balcony, they have orchids, to the fanciest house, they have orchids.” Most of all, she’s amazed by the people here — by their rhythms and their sense of connection to the land and each other. “The people,” Barbara says, “they have their own rhythm, they have their own time... they go with nature. When they want to have a sleep, they have a sleep, when they want to have a break, they have a break. They have a very strong sense of family. And I want to grab all of these moments.” Using typical scenes as her raw material, she cuts away at their contexts and focuses on their soul. Stripping away her subjects’ clothing, she wraps them in patterns of common objects — cups of coffee, bowls of pho, Buddhist wheels, plastic stools, @ symbols, flowers, packs of cigarettes and 333s — the things that people surround themselves with in their everyday lives. These are the things Barbara sees written all over the culture. “I’m combining the tradition with the contemporary moment,” she says. “Vietnamese — and this is the very nice thing about them — they’re very strong about what is their soul, what is their history and what is their tradition... [they’re able to] take in the modern while keeping the old.” I mention Kehinde Wiley — a New Yorkbased portrait painter who places AfricanAmericans in simulations of well-known

Provided by Barbara Pellizzari

arbara Pellizzari sees something most miss in everyday life. Instead of seeing a typical family squeezed onto a motorbike, she sees the gentle grasp of a shoulder, the child’s hands touching the dashboard, in imitation of his father. These scenes are the source material for her next show, called Attimi, Italian for ‘moments’. Hosted by the Italian Embassy in Hanoi, it opens on Sep. 18 at Casa Italia, the one-year-old Italian cultural centre. This series is part of her getting to know Vietnam — a process that started with huddled buildings and butterflies transported downriver, in last year’s Cargo at Ho Chi Minh City’s deciBel. Before she moved to Vietnam two years ago, she spent 12 years teaching and creating art in Shanghai and Beijing. And before that, she was an art restorer in Florence, Italy; Chicago, US and Karachi, Pakistan. And now she’s in Vietnam, amazed by what she sees around each corner.

paintings, taking their expressions and casual wear out of their familiar settings. In doing so, he toys with our assumptions and makes us take another look at people we’d thought we’d seen. It seems somewhat similar to what Barbara is doing here. “Look at this image for example” — she points at a picture of a shirtless man. “I haven’t done this guy because this guy doesn’t have enough clothes on for my project. But this looks like a real pose from Mannerism, from the Renaissance again. If you look at the traditional paintings, it’s really from that time. “So you see, there is Mannerism in Vietnam. And it’s very poetic.” — Ed Weinberg Attimi debuts on Sep. 18 at Casa Italia, 18 Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

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briefings HANOI

e iv s s a M e r o M Getting BRIEFINGS

On the eve of breaking into the mainstream, the founder of Hanoi Massive talks community, hangovers and finding interesting stuff to do — in short, all of the things you’ll find in an average scroll down the Hanoi Massive Facebook group page

he Facebook group page Hanoi Massive was born out of a need for connection — for the community, for people looking for shoe street or the rope market, for people looking to air grievances they’re too polite to mention in person. We’re pretty sympathetic to that need — Word was founded with a similar mission. Now, after three successful years and almost 20,000 members later, Massive is planning a rebirth — this one on an independent platform, one that’s better equipped to serve the online community specific to Hanoi it’s helped create. Here we speak to founder Julian Talbot, who hails from Bristol, UK, the home of Massive Attack and the underground scene often known as the Bristol Massive. Word: What’s your background, and how did you end up in Vietnam? Julian Talbot: Pretty much your standard issue English teacher. I’d been back and forth to Southeast Asia for a few years prior to moving here and loved the region. England wasn’t working. So once the decision was made I bought a one-way ticket to Saigon and was gone a month or so later. I was always aiming for Hanoi as I knew a couple people already up here and was sick of the Facebook pictures! It’s coming up on three years now and it’s still the best decision I’ve made.

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Word: Where did you get the idea for Hanoi Massive? JT: There really wasn’t any idea or thought put into it. One hungover Saturday I started a group so my friends and I could sort out dinner plans, beers and work... and things grew from there. Word: Why has it been so successful? JT: Its success has been a constant surprise. In hindsight it’s easy to see why the concept has worked so well — but at the time, hitting 50 members was a big deal considering there were only 13 or so to start with. I guess the success can largely be attributed to how difficult this city can be at times, and the lack of [easily-accessible online resources]. Most of us come from very easy-to-organise lives, and when you have to find everything out the hard way in a new city, something like Massive is pretty handy.

Word: You’ve got plans for developing both the Hanoi Massive name and the services provided by Hanoi Massive. What are they? And when do you expect this to happen? JT: Yeah, wheels are in motion and something’s coming up real soon. I’ve been thinking about what made the group popular and how to improve on this, but the problem is Facebook is very limited. The plan now is to move onto a new platform — and this opens up all sorts of possibilities. It really is quite exciting, there’s the ability here to combine social media with a travel/city guide in a way that hasn’t really been done before. By putting these together we can create a fully functional online community that is specific to Hanoi. I don’t want to give too much away at the moment, but we’ve got some big plans, with GPS and a one-stop shop for news and events. Going to be big!

Word: Do you think the growing popularity of Facebook in Vietnam is part of the reason for the group’s success? JT: Like it or not, social networking is a part of life now. This couldn’t of happened without Facebook, so of course it’s helped. But the success of the group is a result of the members creating a mixture of Hanoi Google and a soap opera. Useful, but also entertaining.

Word: How do you think this will benefit people living in Hanoi? JT: I’ve been here for long enough to know what helps and what doesn’t. This next stage is being designed on the back of years of battling Hanoi and all its quirks. Time will tell if it’s a success — but I’m confident it’s going to work. For now, you can find the group by searching Facebook for ‘Hanoi Massive’

Run walk stroll

, or This is a fun morning for everyone and a great team building event with procceeds going to charities the length of Vietnam.

Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist Tel: T el: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330 pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com Au Lac Do Brazil I HC M C 238 P asteur asteur, Dist. 3 Tel: T el: (08) 3820 71 57 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682 pr@aulacdobrazil.com

briefings BRIEFINGS

HCMC

The End of an Era Another Saigon landmark is being replaced. But at what cost?

hen it was announced in midAugust that the Saigon Trade Tax Centre, known locally as Thuong Xa Tax Sai Gon, was being knocked down, there was shock. The latest in a long line of buildings sacrificed to the emerging future concept of Central Ho Chi Minh City, the old shopping centre will make way for a 40-storey Tax Plaza — to be connected to the Opera House metro station and the four-storey deep underground mall running under Le Loi. But the shock was not at the redevelopment — since the mid-2000s the site has been one of 20 downtown buildings marked for reconstruction. Rather it’s the time scale. Business owners have been given just two months to relocate — an impossible scenario, especially if they want to find an equivalent location in District 1. Said one handicraft shop owner to local newspaper, Tuoi Tre, “We [had been planning] to move to a shopping mall on Le Thanh Ton, but the monthly rental fee [of VND30 million] is too high… We tried to bargain but they didn’t even listen to us, saying they have a fixed price and we [have] no choice.” Many other business owners are experiencing the same problems — without their home in the Saigon Tax Centre and the

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relatively low rents, they are being priced out of doing business in District 1. The result was that throughout August, many of the shop owners were selling off their products at huge discounts.

A Date with History Inaugurated in November 1924, according to historicvietnam.com, the Grands Magasins Charner (GMC) was not the first department store in Saigon — that honour went to Au Nouveautés Catinat, which was opened in 1887. However, prior to World War II, GMC was certainly the place to shop. As one guidebook published in 1937 describes it, GMC was “the best stocked store in Indochina, with the widest choice, incomparable price and all of the facilities one would find in a Paris department store”. Comprised of departments dedicated to perfumery, jewellery and silverware, millinery, lingerie, fabrics and silks, haberdashery, shoes, leather goods, porcelain, furnishings, hardware, toys, music, household goods, food and much more, the GMC attracted all breeds of shoppers. But if the advertising from the late 1920s is anything to go by, it was the weapons, ammunition and hunting accessory departments that brought in the shoppers.

With France relinquishing their hold on Vietnam, so in 1960 the department store was renamed the Saigon Tax Trade Centre in response to the owners starting to rent out space to individual merchants. After reunification in 1976, the landmark received another makeover — this time it became an exhibition centre for industrial machinery. However, just five years later it was turned back into a department store — this time the City General Department Store. In the mid1990s the old name Thuong Xa Tax Sai Gon was brought back. The decline of this Saigon landmark that still retains many of its original features doesn’t just mark the end of an architectural and historical era. It marks a change in people’s lives. Although Satra, the present owner of the site, has decided to exempt shop owners from two months’ rental fees, and is trying to give shop owners a place in the new shopping centre that will be planned, for many the gap between doing business now and in a few years time when Tax Plaza opens will be too long. They’ve been offered alternatives — Satra have shopping centres in District 8 and District 10. But neither offer the District 1 location and the unique customer and product mix that have made Saigon Tax Centre so popular. — Nick Ross

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briefings BRIEFINGS

HCMC

In Transition — Nha Lo

Glen Riley discovers beauty in a vanishing part of Saigon

ha Lo is an apartment complex most skip over, passing the street markets and roadside eateries near the intersection of Co Bac, Co Giang and De Tham. At first glance, this cluster of housing also known as Chung Cu Co Giang may make one wary due to the ill repair of the neighbourhood. But there is a beautiful charm to this late 1930s French-built complex. Much like any developing city, this relic of Saigon will soon disappear to make way for new development. When I visited, a local resident acted as my escort. She was born in this area, and grew up in a time when this part of

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District 1 was on the city’s southern edge. According to her, this is a place with a bad reputation. At one time it was known as a haven for gangsters and drug dealers. She told me that if someone was wanted by the authorities, they would hide out in Nha Lo. But now, the area has softened. You can be at ease as you walk through the alleyways of Nha Lo in the daytime and enjoy its laidback pace. Kind residents might even invite you into their homes for morning tea.

Long Exposure I have visited this community several times over the last five years — photographically,

it's stunning. There is a unique character to the complex. The textures, the light, the people and the culture convey a sense of what Vietnam was in days gone by. Unfortunately, the process of displacing residents started last year — the complex was originally planned to be vacant by this April. Once the land is cleared, with the exception of two temples this square block will be redeveloped. It will be interesting to see what’s in store for the Co Giang area. This is the first major development in the ward since the mid 1990s. As the saying goes, you can’t stop progress — but you can certainly try to understand it.

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briefings

BRIEFING

HANOI

TropFest Hanoi The world’s largest film festival comes to Hanoi

ea-light candles wink from between the garden foliage, a large frog croaks in the koi pond, and a movie projector illuminates the large outdoor wall. Behind the bar, the staff of BackYard Bia Hoi are busy preparing food and drinks for the crowd assembled to watch a selection of short films from this year’s TropFest, the world’s largest short film festival. Starting out in the Tropicana Cafe in Sydney 21 years ago, the official website describes the first TropFest as “a dude, a cafe, and one simple idea.” Originally called the Tropicana Short Film Festival, the first event was planned as a casual gathering of cast, crew and friends to watch the short film made by festival founder John Polson. These days, with the festival attracting millions of viewers in nine locations around the world, TropFest is not only the biggest film festival in existence, it is also one of the world’s only truly international ones. This year, TropFest expanded again with the opening of its new South-East Asia (SEA) arm in Malaysia. Kicking off in Penang this past January, the festival welcomed 180 entries from nine Southeast Asian countries. Over 4,000 people turned out to watch the screening of the 12 finalist films, with the top prize being taken by the 24-year-old Cambodian, Sothea Ines, for her film Rice. “We believe that great films don’t have to cost millions to be seen by millions,” say the festival organisers. “It’s all about getting out, doing it, and sharing it with the world.”

Hit the Road, Jack In the wake of the TropFest SEA success, festival organisers are hitting the road, encouraging film makers to join the competition, while displaying some of these exceptional short films to audiences around the region. So on a recent balmy Hanoi evening, the TropFest

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roadshow crew set up camp at BackYard Bia Hoi, a garden bar and restaurant that has become a fixture in the Tay Ho neighborhood since its opening earlier in the year. Reclining on wooden chairs throughout the verdant backyard setting, guests were treated to five short films. Feasting on plates of fresh Vietnamese food washed down with cold Hanoi beer, the audience sat captivated by a series of films that managed to inspire laughter, sadness, fear, and uncertainty all within seven minutes. “We want you.” Tropfest managing director Joe Sidak and festival director Lisa Case told the crowd at the end of the evening. “Entries for next year’s TropFest SEA are open and as long as you are a resident of Southeast Asia, you can apply.” “I have invited TropFest back again in mid-October for another viewing,” says Pete Wilkes, owner of BackYard Bia Hoi. “This is something we will do four to five times a year.” And judging by the positive reception, Hanoi’s filmgoers agree. After the films had ended, nobody seemed in a hurry to leave. The kitchen was still open and the cold beer was flowing; the perfect setting for a movie night. — Katie Jacobs To see more of Tropfest, go to tropfest.com. Backyard Bia Hoi is at 15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho, Hanoi

VIETNAM RD

L FIE FA C E

MAKE ey n o y o ur m

Maybe it’s with the Queen of England. Maybe it’s simply with your dog. Maybe it's by yourself. Or maybe it’s with friends in a bizarre location. It doesn’t matter. Word is running a competition in search of the best selfie taken in Vietnam. The deal is simple. You can use a wide range of photography techniques to take your photo, you can even use your camera or your smartphone - we have two entry categories. But, as the photographer, you must manually push the shutter button to take the photo. Simply take your selfie, make sure it’s a minimum of 500kb and send it to Kyle Phanroy at kyle@wordvietnam.com by October 15th. The results will be published in November 2014. The winner of the competition will be featured as our front cover model later in the year. ADVERTISE WITH US & GET NOTICED Email bao@wordvietnam.com for HCMC and giang@wordvietnam.com for Hanoi

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briefings

BRIEFING

NATIONAL

Vo Trong Nghia, Rebel Architect

ick Ahlmark, who’s produced and directed docs for The Guardian, Vice and Al Jazeera English, followed Vo Trong Nghia for two weeks to film Greening The City, his contribution to the Rebel Architecture series that focuses on architects around the world challenging conventions. Debuting last month on Al Jazeera English and this Sep. 8 on Al Jazeera YouTube, the film gives Nghia’s idealism the attention it deserves.

Vietnam’s most recognisable young architect gets the documentary treatment in Al Jazeera English’s Rebel Architecture series

Word: How did this project get started? Nick Ahlmark: I was pitching a different project at the Al Jazeera English offices in London, and the commissioner I was talking to introduced me to Daniel Davies, who is the executive producer and creator of the Rebel Architecture series. He explained the series concept, to profile six different architects in six different regions of the world using different directors for each episode. The common theme that binds the series is that these architects all use architecture as a form of resistance or activism. I thought it was a really unique and cool concept and something I’d not seen before. He knew I’d made a lot of films in Asia Pacific and said he was looking to include an architect

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from the region. So I pitched him the story of Vo Trong Nghia and after developing the idea together [with Daniel] he eventually gave the project the green light. Word: What’s your connection to Vietnam? NA: My dad lived there from 1994 to 2012, so I’ve been going back and forth for 20 years and seen it change. That’s why it was great to do this film, because it’s not just about Nghia it’s about the country. I love Vietnam and have a strong emotional connection to it — I hope that comes across in the film. Word: Do you get the sense that Nghia considers himself as someone against the popular current? NA: I think it’s a fact that he is someone who is going against normal paradigms in the context of Vietnam, although he probably wouldn’t really want to say that himself. But if you watch the film and know anything about him it’s undeniable. In that sense he is a rebel, hence why he fits perfectly into the Rebel Architecture series concept. Word: What did you see ‘behind the scenes’ in following Nghia around? NA: Honestly speaking, he’s pretty much how you see him in the film, relentlessly focused, upbeat, pragmatic. He can also be quite tough with his staff, but to manage that many projects and achieve that level

of success you can understand why he has to be. He tries to block out unnecessary distractions. But at the end of the day he believes in himself and his mission and I think this conviction is what drives him. It’s also important to remember that he lived for 10 years in Japan and speaks fluent Japanese, which has really moulded him as a person and an architect; he has a totally different outlook because of it. It was amazing to see him in meetings switching fluidly between Japanese, English and Vietnamese — there can’t be many people in the world who can do that! Word: How do you think Nghia’s work will affect the face of Vietnam in the future? NA: It’s hard to say because he’s just one person, but the more international awards he wins the more recognition he gets in Vietnam and the more influence he has. If he can start initiating larger urban plans under his green mantra he could become very influential. If you watch the film you will see he is working on a massive project called the Vertical Farming City. This kind of project could become more common in the future. Also he is pushing for the use of bamboo in architecture, which could change the look of Vietnam’s cities. See Nick Ahlmark’s work at facebook. com/storytimefilms, or check his Twitter — @Storytime_Films

Drinking for a Cause Preserving the endangered snow leopard

ow do you protect an animal from extinction? It’s a question that one entrepreneur and wildlife enthusiast Stephen Sparrow found himself grappling with. His solution? Use the name of the animal to create a brand, and then try and market it. Launched in 2006, Snow Leopard vodka is a top-end, spelt-grain vodka distilled in Poland for a key purpose — to prevent the extinction of the snow leopard. Found in 12 countries around Central Asia, estimates suggest there are now only 5,000 snow leopards left in the wild, the majority in five key countries: China, Mongolia, India, Pakistan and Kirgizstan. “If we can sell 150,000 cases annually,” says Stephen, “then 15 percent of profits will equate to a million dollars invested in communitybased conservation projects. We’ve been told that an incremental million dollars a year will provide the step change to get the snow leopard off the endangered list within a generation.”

A Grain of an Idea Stephen’s desire to conserve the snow leopard started on a 2005 trip to Nepal. Previously working on the commercial side for Formula 1 team Jaguar Racing, and then in the drinks industry, the former city lawyer decided to take a redundancy package when his employers, Allied Domecq, were bought up and split into separate companies. “I was 35 years old and wanted to do something different,” he recalls. “I got a nice payout and I thought, I’m going to do all these things I wanted to do — go to Argentina to learn the tango, go trekking in The Himalayas.” It was when he was in The Himalayas that he found out about the existence of the snow leopard.

“Out of ignorance I didn’t know if they were still alive or a mythical creature,” he recalls, “but when I did some research I realised a couple of things. They were the least well-researched of the big felines, hence the least well-resourced from a conservation point of view. Also the prognosis was that there was a good chance of getting the snow leopard off the endangered list.” Knowing that he would need to start earning a living, and determined to do something entrepreneurial, he decided to trademark the name Snow Leopard and create a luxury vodka, thus giving back 15 percent of all profits to conservation. The start-up period was tough — some of Stephen’s earliest deliveries were made in person on a bicycle. And for the first couple of years he worked out of his London flat not drawing a salary, instead giving anything he could towards his cause. But by selling the drink in the more fashionable bars in London, the vodka was quickly picked up by London’s celebrity set. Soon a number of cocktails emerged including the Feline Fatale and the Miaowtini. Peter Phillips, the grandson of The Queen, got on board, serving Snow Leopard as the only spirit at his 2008 wedding at Windsor Castle. His better-known cousins, William and Harry, also became fans, ordering Snow Leopard for their private parties. However, it wasn’t until last year when Stephen teamed up with drinks company Edrington, that he was able to push the brand further afield. In this instance Asia. Snow Leopard was launched in Vietnam in early August and is presently available in Ho Chi Minh City.

The Conservation Snow Leopard Vodka supports a range of conservation initiatives.

“A big problem for snow leopards is retribution killings because they typically take livestock,” explains Stephen. “You’ve got to sympathise with the herders… by western standards they are very poor. But if we start insurance schemes with the herders — these aren’t handouts, these are self-sustaining, they’ve got to pay in — when something happens, these livestock are replaced and there’s no need for retribution killing.” He adds: “Vaccination projects follow the same logic. The herders lose more livestock to natural disease [than to snow leopards]. Vaccinated, even if you get a few predator attacks, they’re going to be more prosperous. So again the local herders start supporting snow leopard conservation.” However, the most rewarding project is an economic enterprise for the women. In the past the women in the key areas were selling raw fleece “for pennies”. But if you spin that raw fleece into wool, it’s five times more valuable. “So we pay for spinning wheels, teach women how to spin wool, teach them how to make handicrafts, provide an international market place. A family’s income will probably treble if an adult female is part of that scheme.” In return, the women are asked to influence the local community. 20 percent of their income is held back by Snow Leopard Enterprises as a bonus so that if a snow leopard is killed in their territory, the women lose their bonus. “This allows them to really influence what happens in that patch.” “I saw a snow leopard killed a few years back [in the Gobi Desert],” he adds. “The nearest police station was about 200 miles away and the police had to come first and foremost to protect this guy who had killed the snow leopard, to protect him from being lynched by the women.”

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Provided by Juergen Eichhorn

Charity of the

Month

“I

Stars of Vietnam When Juergen Eichhorn first saw the painful side of the northern province of Hai Duong, it happened by chance. He’s still unsure if it was an accident or destiny.

t’s been more than seven years,” Juergen says, “since I drove my motorcycle from what’s now known as the Nam Cuong Hotel towards the centre of the city. It started to pour and I was looking for a quick shelter. “That’s when I saw the roof of the social centre of Hai Duong and it looked like the perfect place to stop. When I walked inside, I found children on crutches and in wheelchairs. It was around lunchtime and there were probably 1,000 children in the yard.” Shocked by his presence, the children retreated. “Everybody wanted to rush back to their rooms or classrooms.” Undeterred, Juergen went inside. “What I saw next was shocking — no chairs, no tables, no dishes… nothing. The kids received their ‘food’ in cupped hands with some sauce on top, and that was their lunch. The children looked very thin and there simply wasn’t enough food to go around.” Accidental or not, Juergen couldn’t unsee the desolation he’d glimpsed. He started asking around, soliciting help and talking to family and friends back home in Bolzano, the mixed German and Italian-speaking capital of the autonomous Italian province of South Tyrol. Finally help arrived, in the form of Paul Christanell. Juergen says, “He was a godsend. Paul went with me to the social centre and was speechless. He couldn’t believe his eyes, and with the help of pictures and conversations, he brought us

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our first donation from the Missions AMT [a Christian missionary aid group, specialising in humanitarian projects in remote areas] in Bolzano. Finally, we had a starting point.”

Brick by Brick Fast-forward seven years, and Juergen has continued with his accidental, fated mission. With Paul’s help, they restored this children’s home “piece by piece”. They brought in furniture and kitchen appliances, education and training. “In four years,” Juergen says, “we set up 32 classrooms equipped with various machinery to teach the children useful trades. Education and training gives these children a chance in life. Today they are able to build chairs and tables themselves. The local industries support them, and the kids find placements where they can earn a living.” In 2013, Stars of Vietnam was born. With operating costs funded by the Italian restaurant Ristorante Italia (1 Pham Hung, Thanh Binh, Hai Duong, italia.vn) and the tourism service AEA (aea.vn), Juergen has helped set up in Hai Duong. “100 percent of the money reaches the poor ones,” he says. With increased awareness and support, Stars of Vietnam has started to help with more of Hai Duong’s larger problems. In particular, they’ve concentrated on the plight of those affected by Agent Orange, the terrible legacy of which has sprawled over generations in Hai Duong.

They’re now focused on building a new home for the 100 children they support, who are blind from the effects of Agent Orange. In 2013, a room collapsed in the old children’s home, injuring six children. Again this year, the stairs threatened collapse, which Stars of Vietnam prevented by installing steel reinforcements. But they saw a new children’s home was a necessary thing. Inspired by a charity ride that one of their benefactors took — in which he drove from Germany to Vietnam by motorbike, ‘selling’ the kilometres he travelled to sponsors for a Euro each — Stars of Vietnam decided to sell bricks to the new construction. They started leaving bricks on the tables in Ristorante Italia. An Italian donation enabled them to start work on the new 700sqm children’s home, but they’ll need more help to finish it. And that responsibility, reader, falls on all of us. Whether it was accident or fate that led you to this page, you’re here now. It doesn’t take much, just VND10,000 to add a brick to their new walls. And that’s how you build the future — brick by brick. — Ed Weinberg To contribute to Stars of Vietnam’s building campaign, buy a brick for only VND10,000 — or buy 100 for VND1 million. Follow the campaign at starsofvietnam.net (you’ll have to use your handy online translator if you’re not proficient in German) or donate directly to paypal@ starsofvietnam.net

Cat of the Month: Sharky

Photo by Julie Vola

harky got his name for being bitey as a young kitten â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but now he is more of a lovey dovey than a bitey sharky. He came with his sweet sister Snowball to a Tram Cuu Ho Meo foster family when he was only five weeks old, a whole four months ago. The two cats are inseparable; they love each other as much as they fight. Sharky has a passion for sneaking out as soon as the door is open, but as soon as heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s out he misses home and will meow within five minutes to get back inside. He is a very loving cat who just wants to sleep on the laps of TV-watching humans. He is active, neutered, fully vaccinated and waiting for you to take him home today. Contact tramcuuhomeo@gmail.com for more information.

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to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

TUESDAY

MARKETING AND MEDIA FOR PROS

National Day

CARAVELLE HOTEL caravellehotel.com If a restaurant’s going to shine, it better do it when the spotlight is on. Caravelle’s Opera 1 & 2 have taken that lesson to heart, and their chefs are coming together to give you food fireworks over four action stations and a variety of sea and land-based offerings — all of Vietnam’s rich natural resources. Or just kick back with a glass of free-flow house wine and enjoy one of Saigon’s coolest views — VND1.2 million++ per person.

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG novotel-nhatrang.com The Square restaurant is adding a tasty offer to a good getaway idea — enjoy buy-one, get-one on a special seafood buffet dinner from

WEDNESDAY

Most of those marketing mixers are little more than an excuse to get drinks with interesting people, but M2’s new concept is a bit more ‘hands-on’. Created as a monthly forum for people in advertising, digital, marketing, media and technology to meet industry experts and each other, M2’s Sep. 3 event at the Caravelle Hotel will give those in the know a chance to learn more. Three speakers will give networkers something to icebreak with — Andrew Duck, Managing Director of Audience Media, tackling Publishing in the Digital Age; Phi Nguyen, Managing Partner of Indochina, World

Franchise Associates, giving a talk entitled From Vietnam to the World — Can Vietnamese Brands Make It?; and Jay Kumar Kamala, Head of Quantitative Research at Epinion Asia, speaking on Digital Audience Measurement. Each presenter will be speaking for 15 to 20 minutes, and will then lead a Q&A. This will all be followed by a networking party. The M2 Marketing and Media Network event will be held on Sep. 3, 6pm to 8.30pm at Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1, HCMC. Tickets to the event are VND250,000 pre-registered, VND350,000 at the door. For more info or to register go to m2.vietnambusiness.tv/enews/sep

FRIDAY

Aug. 30 to Sep. 2, at only VND252,000++ per person.

THE GRAND – HO TRAM STRIP thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand – Ho Tram Strip has activities of all types lined up for the week of National Day and the Mid-Autumn Festival, from a festive special menu at Ju Bao Xuan starting at VND1,388,000++ to a seafood buffet at Ginger from VND638,000++. The games are on, too, including a weekend slot tournament with a VND74 million prize and a VND2,079,000 net Preview Play on the Greg Normandesigned gold course. Or relax with a buy-one, get-one at The Spa — valid on all 60-minute treatments over the weekend. In any case, you won’t be bored.

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HEART BEAT 9 @ CUBE BAR Goethe-Institut is continuing to bring good German culture to Vietnam this month, collaborating with Heart Beat on this ninth installment to fly in ‘the don of minimal house’, Schlepp Geist. Another one of the Berlin-based heavies we’re expecting this month, he’s a legendary live performer, and is backed by Vietnam’s Drew Tudose and B.A.X., with Heart Beat’s Erol on the visuals. They’re all conspiring to make sure there’s only one place you want to be that night — on the dance floor. Heart Beat 9 will take place at The Cube Bar, 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, HCMC. The show goes from 8pm to late and entrance is free. For more info, check heartbeatsaigon.com

SATURDAY

ENCOUNTERS OF THE STIMULATING KIND After wrapping up the pilot run of the multi-disciplinary, workshop-and-lecture-based Encounter programme, San Art is soliciting 15 more participants to take part in a new edition. The applications close on Saturday Sep. 6. The types of theorists and professionals that will work with participants represent the Global South, and have different perspectives to share on similar challenges. This year, people like Filipino film director/writer/ actor Kidlat Tahimik will speak as will South African Ntone Edjabe — writer, journalist, DJ and founder of Chimurenga, an awardwinning pan-African literary magazine. And that’s not the only interesting part. If last year’s programme was any indication, the other participants will also have some different perspectives to share, coming from backgrounds as diverse as social entrepreneurship and architecture, computer programming and fine arts. Learn more or apply at sanart.org

11 THURSDAY 20 YEARS LOOKING BACK, 2 YEARS LOOKING FORWARD With nearly 20 years of history in Vietnam, AusCham has rare perspective amongst expat business types. This month on Thursday Sep. 11 they’re sharing it with real estate professionals, with a full day of market insights, expert talks, discussions of law changes and networking opportunities. Speakers include Nguyen

SOME MAGRITTE WITH YOUR WINE Or maybe you’d prefer some Miro? It doesn’t matter; VinSpace’s Canvas & Wine September offerings feature both surrealists the way they were meant to be imitated — with lots and lots of wine.

Tran Nam, Deputy Minister of Construction, Nguyen Huu Thuy, Director of VAMC and Tareq Muhmood, CEO of ANZ Vietnam. Get a glimpse into the future for only VND1.9 million for AusCham and co-host members, VND2.3 million for non-members. To register or learn more, contact Ms. Phuong at events1@ auschamvn.org. The event will take place at InterContinental Asiana Saigon from 8am to 2pm

The Magritte edition of Canvas & Wine is on Sep. 11 at 6.30pm, at VinSpace Art Studio, 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC. The Miro edition is Sep. 25 at 6.30pm, at VinSpace Garage, 95 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC. Both editions cost VND800,000 — check vin-space. com for more info

12 FRIDAY

LEARN TO COOK JAPANESE AT BLANCHY’S Hoa Tuc’s Saigon Cooking Class has joined up with Blanchy Street to present one of the most unique cooking classes Saigon has to offer — Japanese cuisine as prepared by resident world beating chefs Martin Brito and Yogo Oba. Taking place on Friday

5th and 12th as well as Saturday 6th and 13th, for VND1.4 million for a two-class session, you’ll learn to prepare dashi, miso and spicy seafood soups; vegetable tempura; salmon maki in two flavours; sea grapes and wakame salad; and gyoza. For more info on these courses, check saigoncookingclass.com

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to do list

SATURDAY

TOM SMITH AT VINGALLERY UK artist Tom Smith’s mixed-media oils dance on their canvases, channeling mythologies, forgotten rites, landscapes that ripple with power, individuals that ripple with aura. His new VinGallery show Nevertheless presents pieces

BERLIN TECHNO EXCHANGE PROGRAMME The kind souls in Berlin knew we were starving for some of their deep house, so they decided to send a peace offering — Oskar Offermann. Known for his association with legendary nightclub Berghain/Panorama Bar, as well as the two record

Ho Chi Minh City

from past series, Shoreditch aesthetic filtered through the strange experience of a seeker. The opening reception for Nevertheless takes place at VinSpace Art Studio, 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC, 6pm to 8pm on Sep. 13. The show runs from Sep. 15 to Oct. 11. Check vin-space.com for more info labels he runs, Oskar’s decided to give us the first taste free — or free enough, given the calibre. Join in the crazy Berlin-type party at The Observatory — cnr. La Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, HCMC. The show is called for 10p and entry is VND100,000. Support by Hibiya Line

MONDAY

DANCE FOR THE REST OF US While last month’s Battle of the Year (see page XXX) got us shook with some of the best dance moves this country has ever seen, Dancenter had its own dance spectacular — 200 dancers of all ages and experience levels, participating in 24 performances. Now that

we’re sufficiently psyched for dance, Dancenter is pulling out its biggest promotion of the year — completely free classes in jazz, contemporary, Zumba, ballet, hip hop, high heels dance and belly dance from Sep. 15 to Sep. 20. For details on Dancenter’s September promotion, visit dancentervn.com

FRIDAY

WEDNESDAY

EUROPEAN RUSTIC FAIR Maybe you’ve browsed Annam Gourmet’s myriad wines, sampled a crumbly blue cheese or two, or even dabbled in some Belgian beers. With the nearly month-long European Rustic Fair, Annam is inviting you to take in more of its traditional European

AUTUMN CLASSIC JOYRIDE cuisine, with a traditional food celebration, Autumn wine fair and beer fest. Pick up that weird curvy cheese knife and go to town! The promotion run from Sep. 17 to Oct. 12. Annam Gourmet has locations in Districts 1, 2 and 7, HCMC — check annam-gourmet.com for details

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The crunch of fallen leaves is the only thing missing from this autumn freestyle on the streets of District 2 — and there’s more than enough funky weather here to replace it. Make sure you bring a good attitude, your helmet and a

bike with lights to The Bike Shop at 7pm on Friday Sep. 19, and get ready to celebrate the joy of cycling with a horde of like-minded road racers! The Bike Shop is at 250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q1, HCMC. Contact thebikeshopvn@gmail.com for info on bike rentals

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

A VERY GRAND FINAL CULOE DE SONG @ THE OBSERVATORY One of the most respected names in South Africa’s dynamic deep house scene is coming to Saigon on Friday Sep. 26, and he’s bringing his Red Bull Music Academy

AUSSIE RULES? Not to be outdone by the noisy neighbours, as in previous years on Saturday Sep. 27 the Vietnam Swans are putting on their very own AFL Final party, in this instance within the spacious confines of Game On. Including a free-flow of beer, wine and soft drinks as well as an all-day buffet with yes, you

and Innervisions approved tracks with him. Hibiya Line supports. Culoe De Song is at The Observatory — cnr. La Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, HCMC. Show is called for 10pm, entry VND100,000

It’s that time again, AFL fans — and whether that time is more about the sport you will watch or all the rest of it, Sep. 27 is a date to keep in mind. That’s the date of the AFL Grand Final, as well as Saigon Saints AFL Club’s annual Grand Final event at The Sheraton. The guest of honour this year is Swans legend Leo Barry — most famous for ‘that mark’ in the dying moments of the 2005 Grand Final. In addition, the

event will feature multiple megascreens, a buffet, all the beer and wine you can drink from 10am to 4pm, raffles, auctions and an afterparty back at Phatty’s. The AFL Grand Final celebration hosted by the Saigon Saints AFL Club is on at The Sheraton on Sep. 27, 10am to 4pm. Tickets are VND1.9 million each, or VND19 million for a table of 10 — call Chris Paget on 0903 735799 or Darren Cotter on 0913 803517 for more details

guessed it, vegetarian options, for a mere VND1 million not only will you get to watch the final itself, but you can take part in a raffle, get down to the aftermatch band and bring under-17s in for free. To buy your ticket/s simply go to vietnamswans.com/online-shop. Game On is at 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1

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to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

SUNDAY BBGV FUN RUN

Even when BBGV is having fun, they know how to do smart business. So it’s no surprise that this annual charity run — this year on Sunday Sep. 28 — has raised nearly VND7 billion in its previous 14 editions, with more coming in at an exponential rate. This year’s edition expects 9,000 runners, with prizes for winners of the 4km race and entertainment to follow. The race starts at 7am on Tan Trao, Phu My Hung, Q7, HCMC. For more info on registering (starting Sep. 8) and sponsoring, contact Tran on officemanager@bbgv.org or Claudia on claudia.lambie@bbgv.org

ALL MONTH

SAVE THE DATE

ALTERNATIVE ARTS BAZAAR

In the Midst of Life 2 by Ngo Van Sac

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY AT THE SOFITEL In September, Craig Thomas Gallery will follow up its successful Bui Tien Tuan exhibition with another hotel wall hanging of one of Vietnam’s brightest stars, Hanoi-based Nguyen The Hung. The

retrospective will focus on his do paper paintings, printed with acrylic and sometimes gouache and watercolour, often of women and nature in arresting positions. For more info, check cthomasgallery.com, or just stop into Sofitel Saigon Plaza at 17 Le Duan, Q1, HCMC

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Following on from the success of their first bazaar back in August, the alternative arts space at 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 is continuing their weekend markets once every fortnight throughout September. Providing the local and expat communities with a unique shopping experience, the bazaar's focus is on showcasing locally sourced, hand-made products with an emphasis on quality and value for money. The coming events in September will feature more than 40 booths with a wide variety of products. The 3A Station Bazaar, will be held the first and third weekend of each month at 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 from 9am to 8pm — in September that’s the 6th, 7th, 20th and 21st. For more information do a search on Facebook for 3A Station Bazaar

BATTLE OF THE MONTH Ok, so maybe it’s not the kind of throwdown we hosted last month, but Song’s urban style dance show on Saturday Oct. 4 has everything else urban, featuring the dynamic styles of John Huy Tran and the Urban Dance Group, as well as hip-hop dancers, circus performers, beat-boxers, graffiti artists, My Tam, Phuong Vy and others. On stage at Hoa Binh Theater, it will be the latest attempt to catch dance lightning in a bottle, or at least in a stage routine. To get the full rundown on Song’s Oct. 4 showcase at Hoa Binh Theater — 3 Thang 2, Q10, HCMC — visit facebook.com/ songdanceshow

PRIME MOVER Zoe Butt

Hailing from Sydney, Australia, Zoe has long been active on the pan-Asian art circuit, working with private collectors and researchers, independent curators and major museums globally. On a meta level, she’s one of the people trying to figure what makes this place tick

Executive Director and Curator of San Art san-art.org

Show I’m really excited about: WAITING FOR GODOT From Oct. 10 and also on the 12th and 13th, Dragonfly Theatre Co is taking on what is widely considered to be one of the best plays of the 20th century, Samuel Beckett’s Waiting for Godot. Nothing much happens while the two main characters wait

for the title character — unless you’re interested in discussing the meaning of life and things like that. At times striking and thought-provoking, at others down right silly, this is a play for all. For more info, check dragonflyvietnam.com

Conjuring Capital at San Art. This exhibition showcases artists from Argentina, India, US, Cambodia and Vietnam examining the cities of Nairobi, Mumbai, Phnom Penh, Buenos Aires and Thai Nguyen. This is the first exhibition I’ve curated that brings contemporary art from abroad to Ho Chi Minh City.

Best night out last month: Hops Beer Garden. I took a whole bunch of artists and supporters there for drinks and food and the outdoor setting was perfect. The service and food was also really good.

Best meal from last month: I am a serious dim sum fan — Ocean Palace on Le Duan!

general? I’m in the art scene, based in Ho Chi Minh City, and it’s growing quite impressively. Many of the contemporary artists that I have worked with at San Art have gone on to do marvelous projects abroad with museums, art fairs and independent organisations. Many more creatives, not just from the visual arts, but also from architecture, design, fashion, music, engineering, anthropology to name but a few, have become a part of our activities and it’s exciting to see the community diversifying like this.

The best secret in town is: The Museum of Vietnamese History (within the grounds of the zoo). This collection has some of the best displays in the country.

Where I go when I go out Thing I posted on Facebook on my own: I get on my bike and I ride to that got the most likes: An image of me wearing my sci-fi Chanel sunglasses in Nimes, France, with an equally stylish pal in his leathers.

SEMINAL POP-PUNKERS THE LEMONHEADS ARE COMING! For those of us born before the 1990s, The Lemonheads and their messy, awesome, charming sounds represent the path alternative-rock could have taken. Word contributor Evan Hudson went so far as to say, “oh sh_____t this is awesome! my favorite Evan in the world

besides me, this is going to rock, oh sh_t.” There you have it. And they’ll be in little ole Saigon on Tuesday Dec. 2. For more info on the upcoming show, contact dkilroy7@yahoo.co.uk, or keep an eye on facebook.com/ loudminorityvietnam. Presented by Loud Minority, it all happens at Q4, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Support by The Secret Asians and James and the Van Der Beeks

Funniest Youtube clip of the month: Tony Abbott bloopers… that man is such an embarrassment.

Song I can’t get out of my head: Happy by Pharrell Williams!

I wish this band would come to town: Die Antwoord from South Africa

How is the scene going in

the river. Sometimes I will go to a local water café on Binh Quoi, other times I’ll go and sit at ID Café in District 3 or M2C on Ly Tu Trong. Or if I’m feeling like a quiet drink I think my new fave would be First Bar... great Japanese whisky.

If my older-yet-still-cool Mom came to town, I would take her to: Café RuNam on Mac Thi Buoi — she would totally love the interior and outdoor garden settings. She would also love Villa Song in District 2 — a stunning boutique hotel on the river. Then to Cholon to visit the myriad of temples.

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just in

Ho Chi Minh City

VILLA VISTA DALAT Dalat’s got a new five-star villa, and it comes with a view. With floor-length windows, fireside evenings, friendly hosts and meals using their garden-picked vegetables — as well as other gourmet type offerings — Villa Vista Dalat is putting itself squarely into the conversation of the best places to stay in Dalat. See the view at facebook.com/ villavistadalat

TRAVEL IN STYLE Ginkgo Voyage — part of the Gingko family, which includes the T-shirt and concept store — has just arrived on the streets of District 1, and it’s looking for some fellow travellers. Managed by a team with more than 15

VIETNAM EAT & TRAVEL

SUITING UP FOR SOME HEALTHY COMPETITION Brooks Brothers, that most regal and long-lived of American brands, just set up their first Vietnamese store on Aug. 30. Now a country renowned for its custom tailoring is set to deal with an icon of business fashion,

worn by everyone from the President of the US to Hollywood stars to the countless wolves of Wall Street. So who will come out on top? We’re not sure, but we’re sure they’ll look good doing it. The first Brooks Brothers store is at L2-24 & 25 in Union Square, 171 Dong Khoi, Q1, HCMC

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After years of work, streetfood enthusiast and writer Stefan Leistner has finally put all his research, photos and obsession with the cuisine of this country into one handy downloadable app. Focusing on six key tourist destinations in Vietnam — Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, The Mekong Delta, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Phu Quoc — the app not only tracks the best street food available in all these

years of combined experience, they’ll get you where you want to go, in the highest quality possible. Stop in for a cup of tea and a chat at Floor 1, 130 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, HCMC, or check ginkgovoyage.com

places, but gives you the type of up-to-date travel advice that not even the Lonely Planet is able to provide (sic!). Including off-the-beaten-track locations, markets, coffee shops and insider street stalls, this may be the perfect accompaniment to anyone looking to avoid the standard tourist trap eating and drinking you get in Vietnam. To download the app go to iTunes and search for Vietnam Eat & Travel. The app is presently only available for iPhone and iPad

just in Mooncake Madness We know we’ve been yelling ourselves hoarse about mooncakes — so sue us, we like them. Stop by the following spots until Sep. 8 if you do, too.

Mooncakes at The Sheraton Saigon

ANNAM GOURMET annam-gourmet.com Annam Gourmet is getting into the mooncake game with a wisdom that belies their years, and some delicate and vibrant looking mooncakes to boot! Stop by Annam to discover what’s inside those clever interlocking boxes — it might just be the nicest thing the moon’s done for you all year.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn Maybe you’re a picky mooncake eater. Well this year Hotel Nikko Saigon is giving you some choices for your four-mooncake box — in varieties of black sesame with walnut and egg yolk, pandan with coconut and macadamia, passion fruit and dried fruit, green bean with almond and chestnut, red bean and Japanese green tea, and green bean and orange peel. Or just get them all in — VND200,000 net per piece, VND800,000 net per four.

NEW WORLD HOTEL saigon.newworldhotels.com Mooncakes are well known in Asia for their lovely baked skin and a surprise mixed-filling

centre. Look no further than the New World Hotel, as Saigon Bakery brings back traditional mooncakes with a nice variety of flavours like green bean, white lotus, panda lotus, black sesame and coconut. For a unique taste, try the hotel’s Pandan Lotus flavour, not found anywhere else in the city. Purchase these moon-cakes for VND850,000 for a box of four, or VND185,000 per cake — there are special discounts on purchases of 10 to 20 boxes. This is the one time of year your sweet tooth and your traditional values match up perfectly.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE renaissance-saigon.com Kabin has long been known for their mooncakes — those tasty turns on tradition like Green Tea Custard Azuki, Pearl of Harmony, Pure Lotus and Imperial Ivory. Get on the gravy train with the mooncakes of kings, and the people who stay at the hotel.

SHANG PALACE shangpalace.com.vn This time of year, Shang Palace puts on their thinking cap to

drum up the best innovations in the world of mooncakes. And they’ve done it again — with the new Macadamia Nut & Lychee Paste cake, as well as the old standbys Ham X.O., Coffee & Lotus Seed, healthy Green Tea, tempting Durian and the inspired Red Bean & Black Sesame Paste. With eight mooncakes to a box, you won’t be saying, “Shang’s for nothing!” (unless you love puns, and are moderately corny)

SHERATON sheratonsaigon.com White lotus, panda lotus, green tea lotus, X.O., date, cranberry, pomelo and mixed nut varieties are enough to get us howling at the moon, making moon eyes, and whatever other silly expressions we can think of — all to say, they sound good! They come with or without eggs, and with a bold assertion that the “perfect balance between sweet and sour flavours” in the new pomelo and cranberry varieties “will be definitely loved by the ladies”. Get these dazzling mooncakes for VND998,000++ per box of four.

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overscene ho chi minh

snow leopard

Photos by Kyle Phanroy Snow Leopard vodka is the only spirit on this planet whose proceeds go to animal preservation. Last month it had its Vietnam launch party. Expect the vodka to soon come to a bar near you…

Battle of the Year

Photos by Owen Salisbury Breakdance had its moment in Vietnam twice last month. We got to go to the first, the national finals in Saigon.

Le Pub’s Birthday Photos by Glen Riley

Pham Ngu Lao mainstay Le Pub turned eight, showing that there is some longevity to the bar scene here — especially if you’ve got someone as charismatic as Trinh Tien Trung at the helm.

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.

Apocalaughs Now

Photos by Glen Riley Two comics from overseas — Nick Page and Pete Berner — flew into our attractive shores, putting on a night of belly-tickling laughter at Cargo Bar. Also on stage was the talent of Jeremy Ginsburg, Eoghan Quinn and Sam Thomas

don’t feed the monkey Photos by Francis Xavier Saigon’s expat bands came together for a packed, drink-fuelled, 10-hour extravaganza show at Cargo Bar, demonstrating that making good music definitely has a point. Even if you’re not making it back at home.

to do list

hanoi

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

WHISKEY WEEKENDS

A still from the German movie, Exit Marrakech

Lang Ha, Ba Dinh. Free tickets are available from Goethe-Institut Hanoi, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 2251/52/53 ext. 9

THE HOT CHICKS

The Little Ghost

GERMAN FILM FESTIVAL Following the success of last year’s German Film Festival, which attracted more than 50,000 visitors around the country, this year’s offering will open in Hanoi on Sep. 4 at the Goethe-Institut. With more than 50 screenings of German language films with Vietnamese and English subtitles or occasional dubbing, there should be something there for every film buff. Kicking off proceedings, the filmmakers of the opening movie, The Visitors, will give a Q&A session on Sep. 4. at the National Cinema Centre, the venue for the screenings in Hanoi.

The themes of family ties and responsibility, home and identity, and love and friendship will be continued through the film selection this year, which includes Exit Marrakech, Parents, Taste of Apples Seeds, Two Lives, Colours of the Ocean, Broken Glass Park, The Little Ghost and Ruby Red. For further information on all of the films and complete schedules, please visit goethe.de/ german-filmfestival-vietnam.com. Screenings will also take place in Hai Phong, Danang, Hue, Ho Chi Minh City and Thai Nguyen. The Hanoi chapter of the German Film Festival will be shown at the National Cinema Centre, 87

Exit Marrakech

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If you haven’t heard of the Hot Chicks band, then you probably haven’t been in Hanoi all that long. Over the last few years, this Filipino-fronted covers band have made their name at the Friday Night on The Terrace parties at The Press Club. Every Thursday this month they will continue their regular slot at Old Quarter watering hole, RockStore. But if you just think this is stale, hotel band-style covers, think again. The performance and song selection make the Hot Chicks into a less run-of-the-mill live music prospect. There’s a reason they’ve had such longevity, and you’ll only figure it out when you see them play. Put simply, they’re good fun and great entertainers. The music’s good, too. The Hot Chicks play every Thursday from 9pm. Entrance is free. RockStore is at 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

La Fée Verte in the Hotel de l’Opera are running a single malt happy hour perfect for whisky enthusiasts from 6pm to 9pm throughout September. Costing VND600,000++, the deal includes three 25ml glasses of Singleton Whisky, ranging from the 12-year-old to the 18-year-old version. Each glass of whisky will also be paired with a selection of canapés. The happy hour runs on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Hotel de l’Opera is at 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

SATURDAY

NOVOLAB New wave, post-rock and even space rock? The mind boggles. Set to be one of the more unusual gigs this month, Novolab will be taking to the stage at RockStore on Saturday Sep. 6. A new live-music project coming from the Hoi An-Danang area, Novolab are a two-piece invention, mixing guitars and bass with computer-generated drums, a synth sequencer and sound design. As it stands that’s all we know, except that this is likely to be a unique show. Novolab will play from 9pm. Entrance is free. RockStore is at 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

A tuna filleting show in Japan

MAGURO NO KAITAI SHOW The Fortuna Hotel are staging a unique epicurean experience perfect for foodies. Bringing together Japanese cuisine, culture and dance, with the aid of Head Chef Kenji Tam they will be demonstrating how to fillet a 45kg yellow fin tuna. A task only performed by highly trained sushi chefs, the whole tuna will be cut into fillets on the spot using three enormous knives and several pairs of skilled hands.

With two shows â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the second on Sep. 20 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the tuna will then be used to create an array of dishes. Alongside the tuna will be a selection of Japanese-style hawker stores and homemade umeshu (Japanese cordial-style liquor). The all-you-can-eat-anddrink affair and show costs VND499,000++ for adults and VND249,000++ for children, but bookings are essential. So call (04) 3831 3333 ext. 6461 or 6160 to reserve your place. Fortuna Hotel is at 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

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to do list

hanoi

SUNDAY

WEDNESDAY

An image from the Spanish documentary, Enxaneta

SEPTEMBER MOVIES THBC Spanish Tapas Bar (44 Lane 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho) is continuing their season of movies celebrating Spanish culture every Sunday throughout September. With all films shown in Spanish and accompanied by English subtitles, entrance is free and even if you are not sure about the films you can still indulge in the finer arts of

Spanish food and drink. The month kicks off on Sunday, Sep. 7 with Pa Negre. On Sunday, Sep. 14 the movie Enxaneta will be screened followed by En La Ciudad on Sunday, Sep. 21 and climaxing with Salvador (Pug Antich) on Sunday, Sep 28. All movies start at 7.30pm. So head down for a relaxing and intellectually minded end to the week.

12 FRIDAY

QUEER DISCO

The regular DJ night celebrating all things beginning with the letter ‘Q’ is returning to CAMA ATK on Friday Sep. 12. DJs La Pham Nikita and Analogueliza will be on the decks to spin their own take on disco and the underground hits

SATURDAY

ROCKSTORE TURNS ONE

It’s difficult to believe, but it’s a year already since live music and DJ venue RockStore first landed on the steps of the Old Quarter. And in true RockStore fashion they will be celebrating their birthday on Saturday Sep. 13 with quite a bang. Although the line-up has yet to be released, expect a night of live music, mad professor-like turntablism, ample amounts of booze and of course, a whole lotta fun. Entrance is free. RockStore is at 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

and pop classics of the last four decades. This is your chance to get glam, be free and dance the night away without any cares in the world. Doors are at 8pm and the first cocktail, wine or beer you drink is half price. Entry is free. CAMA ATK is located on 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

BLUE HAWAII LIVE The punk-pop musical duo of Raphaelle Standell-Preston and Alex ‘Agor’ Cowan are making a not-to-be-missed trip

Canadian band Blue Hawaii

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Bertolt Brecht, author of The Caucasian Chalk Circle

THE CAUCASIAN CHALK CIRCLE The Goethe-Institut, in cooperation with the Youth Theatre, will be putting on a modern, semi-musical production of Bertolt Brecht’s classic play, The Caucasian Chalk Circle, from Sep. 17 to Sep. 19 at The Youth Theatre. Directed by Dominik Guenther, The Caucasian Chalk Circle is set during wartime. The governor’s house comes under attack and, fearing for their lives, the governor’s wife passes her beloved son into the arms of a maid before fleeing for safety with as many of her valuables as possible. The maid, Grusche,

from their native Montreal to Hanoi as part of an expansive Asian tour. Playing under the name Blue Hawaii and hitting CAMA

escapes and raises the child as her own. The years go by and calmer waters appear. Hearing of the whereabouts of her former maid, the governor’s wife finds her and the son, who is the heir to a large fortune. Having grown attached to the child the maid refuses to give him up. Now the court must decide. But which way will the decision go? The play will take place from Wednesday, Sep. 17 to Friday Sep. 19, 8pm at The Youth Theatre, 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Tickets are free of charge and are available from both The Youth Theatre and the Goethe-Institut, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi from Sep. 10

ATK on Saturday Sep. 13, Raphaelle’s dense harmonies combined with Alex’s synths, guitars and drum machines bring a unique flavour of dance not often seen in Asia. Mixing punk with pop the duo creates a magical blend of music that reflects their collaborative, communitydriven environment in Canada. Doors are at 8pm. Tickets are VND100,000 in advance or VND150,000 on the door. CAMA ATK is located on 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. For more information visit bluehawaii.bandcamp.com

THURSDAY

Fancy some paella anyone?

A SPANISH FEAST The Hanoi Cooking Centre (HCC) are putting on a Spanishinspired dinner. Starting at 7pm, the Iberian-style feast will cost US$24 (VND504,000) per

person while drinks will be sold separately at bar prices. For further information email tracey@hanoicookingcentre.com or go to hanoicookingcentre.com. HCC is at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

SHOWCASING THE ORDINARY

FRIDAY

As part of the Y-Viet Programme 2014, Italian artist Barbara Anchisi will be exhibiting her work, Attimi — Images of the Ordinary in Vietnam, at Casa Italia from Sep. 18 to Oct. 2. Born in Turin, Anchisi has worked with a number of art institutes across the world from the US to China, where she was based at Dulwich College, Beijing from 2007 to 2012. Her work has been displayed in solo exhibitions

AMCHAM HANOI NETWORKING EVENT IN DANANG

Cult Australian outfit, The Dune Rats

DUNE RATS Self-styled Australian poppunk-surf rock band, The Dune Rats, will play CAMA ATK on Friday Sep. 19. Supported by Hanoi punk rock outfit, The Offensive, the Brisbane-based outfit’s ear splitting sounds and on-stage antics have given them a cult following in their native Australia. Despite the

Artist Barbara Anchisi at work

space — CAMA ATK is tiny — expect mosh pit action and plenty of headbanging. This is one of those shows for the all the alternative metalheads and neo-punk fans out there. CAMA ATK is located 73A Mai Ha De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. For more information go to dunerats.bandcamp.com. Entrance fee TBA

AmCham Hanoi’s annual networking event will take place from Friday Sep. 19 to Sunday, Sep. 21 at the Hyatt Regency Resort in Danang. Providing a unique opportunity for business leaders and entrepreneurs to share their own visions of what the future holds for business in Vietnam, the AmCham leadership will be on hand for the weekend as will

both in her native Italy and internationally. In her latest exhibition, Anchisi will showcase a very personal vision of everyday Vietnam. Using a range of colours and tones along with handmade do paper inlaid on canvas, her work provides an intriguing visual rendering of contemporary Vietnam. The exhibition runs from Sep. 18 to Oct. 2 at Casa Italia, 18, Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. For information please email Ms. Hoa on yviet.hanoi@ esteri.it. representatives from the US Embassy in Hanoi and the US Consulate in Ho Chi Minh City. It’s not all work and serious chat, however, as the weekend will feature dinner parties, golf, swimming and more. The registration fee is VND4,800,000 for AmCham members; VND6,000,000 for non-members and VND3,800,000 for spouses or partners. For more information on the event, to register and total attendance costs, go to amchamhanoi.com/ event/networking-weekend/

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to do list

20 OF ART

hanoi

SATURDAY works of art celebrating the H’mong and Red Dzao people and their culture. Using images of objects, animals, people and landscapes that are familiar to the children in their everyday lives, she has created a unique body or work. During the festival, many of Sapa’s other artists will open their private studios to visitors. There will also be an exhibition of paintings at the Sapa Museum for the whole month. This is a great opportunity to meet the artists, ask them about their work and make a special purchase. For more information on the festival, please go to sapa-tourism. com

SAPA FESTIVAL

To celebrate the artwork of artists and children in Sapa, the Sapa Tourist Centre and various locations in the town will be holding a Festival of Art, from Sep. 20 to Oct. 18. Helping to support the Art for Community initiative, the notfor-profit showcase aims to raise funds to help both local artists and local communities living in the area. Included in the showcase will be paintings by UK-born artist Bridget March, who with help from the children of Ma Cha and Ta Phin Villages, has produced

JUNIOR MASTERCHEF? The Hanoi Cooking Centre (HCC) are continuing their cooking classes made just for kids. For US$15 (VND315,000), on Saturday, Sep. 20 your little ones can role up their sleeves, get creative and learn to cook a range of simple dishes in a safe

and supervised environment. Soon it will be them who will be cooking the evening meal. What more can you ask for? For further information email tracey@hanoicookingcentre.com or go to hanoicookingcentre.com. HCC is at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

Masterchef? Not exactly. But HCC are offering a chance for your kids to learn to cook

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FRIDAY

POSITIVE MASS The monthly bike ride inspired by the Critical Mass phenomenon that has reached 300 cities worldwide continues this month on Friday, Aug. 26 at 8pm. Titled Positive Mass or Dap Cho Suong, the ride will pedal off in Hanoi at St. Joseph’s Cathedral on the junction of Nha Tho and Nha Chung. From

there the cyclists will traverse the streets of the capital en masse, reclaiming what many believe is rightfully theirs — a city devoid of motorbikes, cars and trucks. Now wouldn’t that be something! Everyone is welcome to join free of charge. Simply turn up at the allotted time and date. For further information go to thbc.vn

ALL MONTH hands on an iPad. One of the last makers of these fascinating oddities — a lady called Ms. Mai — has rekindled her love affair with the art form after a four-year hiatus and has produced a limited edition of ships. These are now being exhibited at both Bookworm and Bookworm Too. The ships come in four sizes and can be bought for various amounts depending on the quality of the work. Ms. Mai’s tin ships can be viewed at Bookworm (44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh) and Bookworm Too (Lane 1/28, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho). For more information visit bookwormhanoi.com

TIN SHIPS REANCHOR AT BOOKWORM Bookworm and Bookworm Too will be running an exhibition of tin ships throughout the whole of September. Traditionally made for the Mid-Autumn Festival (Tet Trung Thu), tin ships and toys made out of scrap tin were once sold on the streets close to the To Lich River in Hanoi and then floated down the waterways of the local villages. Unfortunately, except for a few die-hard tin ship makers, the tradition has largely disappeared. Now you’re more likely to see a kid with their

PIKNIC ELECTRONIK After three years of becoming Hanoi’s favourite electronic music purveyor and weekly outdoor event, Piknic Electronik continues every Sunday throughout September at

The tin warships built by Ms. Mai

Softwater in An Duong. Bringing its tradition of good music and even better vibes to the capital, the Piknickers enjoy it all where it’s meant to be — on a lawn next to a river and in the late afternoon and early evening

of a cool Hanoi autumn. Unlike its sister events in Montreal and Barcelona, Piknic Electronik Hanoi has two additions — Piknic Acoustik Live sessions on the first Sunday of each month, and a monthly mini-market.

Piknic Electronik is at SoftWater Gardens, 49 Road 5, An Duong, Tay Ho and kicks off at 5pm every Sunday running until (fairly) late. For more information, keep an eye on the event page at facebook.com/groups/ piknicelectronik/events

otherwise known as Nguyen Tien Manh, is a professor of

jazz at the Vietnam National Academy of Music on Hao Nam. Having studied abroad — most notably in Sweden — he is intent on bringing the art form of jazz to young Vietnamese musicians and, of course, the public. The jazz starts nightly at 8.30pm (Wednesday and Thursday) and 9pm (Friday and Saturday). The musicians play for two hours. Don’s Tay Ho is at 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Entrance is free

JAZZ AT DON’S If you’ve ever heard the sounds of jazz and modern classics played with a classy edge floating over the waters of West Lake, then the likelihood is that they come from the Oyster Bar on the top floor of Don’s Tay Ho. Played nightly from Wednesday to Saturday, Mike’s Tip Box Band is a collection of both professional and student jazz musicians who are using the small, outdoor stage to blast

Jazzin' it up on Don's Oyster Bar

away some expertly crafted and very sublime jazz. Mike himself,

SAVE THE DATE

A FAIR FOR STARTUPS HATCH! FAIR 2014 returns for its second outing with the Vietnam startup community on Saturday, Oct. 11 and Sunday, Oct. 12 in Hanoi. Aiming to support entrepreneurs either on the threshold of starting a new business or with ideas that they have yet to bring into a business arena, the fair’s theme is connecting resources. Through three main activities the event will bring together potential investors, mentors, start-up companies with

innovative products and the media. In addition, an attempt will be made to evaluate business models and to create an environment where people attending the fair can learn from the success and experience of others. More than 1,000 people attended the fair last year and the organisers are expecting increased attendance for 2014. To get involved or for more information go to fair.hatch.vn or contact Vu Anh Ngoc on ngoc@hatch.vn. The venue will be confirmed closer to the date

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just in

hanoi

KAFE VILLAGE One year after opening KAfe, the urban café and restaurant on Dien Bien Phu, the successful café concept is expanding to a second location on Ha Hoi close to Tran Hung Dao. Opened in late August, KAfe Village is carrying the same food philosophy, serving up unfussy, hearty comfort food together with creative and simple drinks and desserts, all in a fresh urban setting. Located in a converted two-storey French villa, and

inspired by tastes from across the globe, the kitchen here is headed up by Sydneyborn chef, Joel Manton. The

well-known face behind the concept, Dao Chi Anh, will be leading from the front. They will be serving up a

range of dishes from the croque monsieur and eggs benedict through to Mexican achiote half BBQ chicken, burgers, handmade potato gnocchi and pastas. Also on the menu is a range of healthy salads, a new selection of creative, Asian-style street snacks together with rustic pizzas, fair-trade coffee, detox juices and organic tea. The KAfe Village is open from 7.30am to 11pm daily and can be found at 4 Ha Hoi, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. For more information click on thekafe.vn or go to facebook. com/thekafevn

A LA FOLIE MY DINH

KUB CAFÉ ON THE LAKE KUB Cafe, the scooterobsessed bar down one of the alleyways off Au Co, has opened a second location on West Lake. With all the mechanical trimmings of the Original KUB Café, the new bia-hoicum-restaurant is offering the Tay Ho community a lake view high on it’s terraced balconies. Located at 79 Quang An, Tay Ho, Lake KUB boasts a collection of classic motorbikes, handdrawn murals, comfy leather chairs and an eight-burner BBQ grill serving premium rib-eye steak to complement the famous KUB hotdogs. All giving motorcycle riders a choice stop on a spin around the lake. Lake KUB is open from 4pm to 9pm daily with a cafe race nightly to the original KUB Cafe near the river

My Dinh is many things to many people — the new frontier, the end of the empire, the rebirth of Hanoi, a blot on the skyline. Take your pick. And that is exactly what the bakery A la Folie did recently when they opened not in central Hanoi, but in My Dinh 1. French-run, the bakery is trying to do something a little different to other bakeries in Hanoi. Selling anything from croissants, pain au chocolat and chaussons au pommes through to French-style baguettes, the owners — both passionate for pastry — are only using real butter and real fruit. Another departure are the fillings in their macaroons. Rather than using butter cream they are filling the cakes with the different-flavoured ganache such as Earl Grey and raspberry puree. The éclair also come in a variety of flavours including lemon cream, caramel cream, passion cream and coffee cream. As well as pastries, A la Folie is producing savoury products such as quiche, tartines and other French specialities. A la Folie is at Nha 12A LO B7 My Dinh 1, Tu Liem, Hanoi, just off Le Duc Tho and close to Crowne Plaza. For more information go to facebook.com/alafoliemydinh1

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BORNGA Also new to the just-opened Lotte Centre is BORNGA, a well-known Korean chain restaurant started by celebrity chef, Jong Won Paik. Now with 30 outlets around the world, Chef Paik created the menu after researching and developing a variety of dishes that are “true reflections of the taste and style of Korea”. Among the highly recommended list is the dish

Woo-Samgyup, which is Chief Paik’s patented recipe of thinlysliced U.S. beef plate seasoned with a secret marinade. BORNGA is on the 6th Floor, Lotte Department Store, 54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Hanoi or online at bornga.co.kr

ANNAM EXPANDS Having developed its delicatessen, supermarket and cafĂŠ concept in Saigon, Annam Gourmet is now bringing the successful model to its groundfloor store in the Syrena Center in West Lake. Five times bigger than its previous installment, the new Annam will not only sell a larger range of products, but will also include a tea and coffee counter, a bakery and pastry section, a cafĂŠ, and a large selection of cold cuts and

cheeses, all available fresh from the deli. To add to the mix, Annam will also be selling fresh fruit and vegetables, cosmetics and beauty treatments as well as an in-store pharmacy-style selection of drugs and baby products. And of course all the luxury fine foods from the likes of Fauchon and Hediard will also be on sale as well as a rotisserie and an extensive selection of frozen products. Annam Gourmet Market is on the ground floor of the Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

SCHOOL FOOD The opening of the Lotte Centre on Lieu Giai has brought with it a number of new restaurants to the Hanoi dining scene. Of these one of the best known is School Food, a casual dining restaurant from South Korea that has more than 80 outlets around the world in destinations as farflung as Hong Kong, Indonesia, Thailand, Japan and the US. Serving up dishes like carbonara tteokbokki, bibimbap, squid ink mari and more, School Food opened up on the sixth floor

of the mall at the beginning of September. The Lotte Center is at 54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh. For more information on School Food go to schoolfood.co.kr

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overscene hanoi

TropFest Hanoi

Photos by Julie Vola The world’s largest film festival flew in its short movies to the rather petite but attractive climes of the Backyard Bia Hoi. Wooing the audience, it looks like TropFest will be back to show us more

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Who is William Onyeabor?

Photos by David Harris If you attended this documentary-cumDJ event at CAMA ATK, you’ll most likely know. For those who didn’t? He’s the mysterious, cult-like king of Nigerian funk…

Don’t Feed the Monkey Photos by Teresa Wealleans Jennifer Whennan and Jean Canstantinesco brought their silky, acoustic set to THBC Spanish Tapas Bar last month, in a show that reinforces the growth of this Iberian café-bar-restaurant into an important West Lake hub for entertainment, bicycles and more.

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

Piknic Electronik

Photos by David Harris The Montreal-born Sunday cool vibes and even cooler drinks event continues to bring Hanoians to the amazingly cool, riverside lawns of Softwater. Barefoot on the grass? That’s unheard of in Vietnam.

Tee Hee in Tay Ho

Photos by Julie Vola Alternative stand-up comedy returned to The House of Son Tinh with a show put on by Hanoi’s very own growing crop of comics. The headliner was from Hong Kong, but the Vietnamese magician was better…

the talk

This is the Month That Was It may have been the end of the summer last month, but Vietnam certainly didn’t pause for breath. Here’s what happened over the 31 days of August

ugust was Hungry Ghost Month, when the gates of the spirit world were opened unleashing millions of hungry phantoms on our planet. With the spirits unable to eat earthly foods, large numbers of Buddhists satiated the phantoms’ insatiable appetites by burning incense and opening the doors of their houses to let out the aroma of food. Unfortunately, as Harry Potter would be likely to tell you, there are always some ghosts trapped in between realms. When left unappeased they start to cause mischief, meaning that August was also a month to take precautions. Wearing protective scarves or amulets was one, as was avoiding travelling or going out late at night — during Hungry Ghost Month the likelihood of accidents, mishaps and robberies increases exponentially. We’ll have to wait to see the data on that one. Last month was also when the ghosts of Tet Eve Past came back to haunt us. In this instance it was in the form of the Saigon Tax Centre. When the news broke, nostalgic Saigonites were brought to tears. How can the city destroy yet another establishment built by the French? Surely this is part of Ho Chi Minh City’s heritage? What will we do without all those wooden chess sets, miniature ships and mother-of-pearl chopstick collections on the third floor that we never bought but always said we would buy as souvenirs but never actually did? And what about those camera shops on the ground floor, the supermarket, all that overpriced jewellery, the huge motorbike parking lot and them

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lovely wallets embossed with Armani and Polo logos? Not a lot and who cares, said the Hanoi Massive. Instead they reacted with restrained glee to the news that their favourite watering hole, Tay Tap, is due to return. Forget the impending Sep. 2 opening of Lotte Centre on Lieu Giai, it’s the drinking establishments that matter in the capital. And although Tay Tap is not actually open yet, construction has started on a new space next to Da Paolo’s on West Lake. Meaning that soon you will be able to go in, swill your beer, and finish it off with a coconut or two on the deckchairs overlooking West Lake. You may even fall in. Now you could never hope to do that at Lotte Centre! Fortunately, with Piknic Electronik going strong every Sunday out at Softwater, Hanoians didn’t need to wait to get their cheap beer, party vibes and skinny dips. Many even took an early river-water plunge and hit the outdoor Excite parties out at Eden Bar while Summer Vibrations brought revelers to a 24-hour dose of revelry somewhere near the pottery village in Bat Trang.

Football, WiFi and Railway Lines The sad news, however, came in the football. While Manchester Utd continued to flounder, leaking supporter after disloyal Vietnamese supporter to their noisy neighbours on the other side of the city, so Vietnam’s under-19s lost 3-4 to Myanmar in the final of the Sultan of Brunei Cup. So happy were the fans that the country’s budding footballers got as far in the

competition as they did — recent senior team performances have been dire — that the players received a hero’s welcome when they returned to Vietnam. This was only outdone by two sterling pieces of news. The first came from Danang with the launch of free WiFi throughout the whole city. Using a system comprised of 330 base transceiver stations, WiFi access points that have been installed on lighting poles and key locations including universities, tourist sites, apartments and 29 state departments and agencies. Let’s hope the proven connection between brain tumours, mobile phone usage and Wi-Fi continues to go unproven. We certainly wouldn’t want the truth to leak out on this one. The ramifications could be even worse if all the parents of Grade 1 to Grade 3 students in Ho Chi Minh City were to get their mitts on all that proven but unproven research. It could mean that a new city-wide plan to make school rooms into Smart Classes could well come off the rails. Not that it will, especially with the present construction of the Ho Chi Minh City Metro System in the lead for that particular accolade. Yet the authorities are sponsoring 5,334 tablets for disadvantaged students with another 321,000 having to buy tablets for between VND3 million and VND5 million a go. The hope is that new star-spangledbanner technology will be brought to 451 of the city’s schools. Hungry ghosts or not, August was a month with substance, satiating more than just the needs of all those ravenous spirits out there.

the talk

70%

95%

The percentage of people who share their copy with up to three other people

The percentage of survey respondents who live in Vietnam

1/4 8 in 10

The number of readers who have read more than six issues of Word Vietnam

The percentage of Word readers who are Vietnamese. The combined percentage of readers who are British, American and Australian is just over one half

24 to 40

The mean age group of readers of Word Vietnam. 26% of readers are over 40

40+

The Word Readership Survey A big thank you to everyone who took part in this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s readership survey, both in print and online. Our market research partner, Cimigo, put your names in a hat and drew out the following prizewinners.

HANOI Javier Bish 1 x VND1 million lunch / dinner voucher at Namaste

Samantha Lane 1 x two-night stay for two

including breakfast and set dinner at Pullman Hanoi

HO CHI MINH CITY

Vickie Warburton

Tran Ngoc

Kevin Hale 1 x 60-minute treatment for two at Xuan Spa, Park Hyatt

1 x FV Save & Safe Membership Card

1 x one-night weekend stay in a deluxe room for two including breakfast and lunch buffet at Sheraton Hanoi

Ricardo Glenn

1 x poolside BBQ weekend buffet voucher for two at Daewoo Hotel

1 x two-night weekend stay in a club luxury room for two including breakfast and club benefits at Sofitel Plaza Saigon

Daphnee Dauchi

Brian Caleda

1 x VND1 million lunch / dinner voucher at Pots â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;n Pans

6 x bottles of wine from The Warehouse

Nina Eejima

Marion Vigot 1 x 60-minute body treatment voucher from Kara Spa, Caravelle Saigon

Frances Amos 1 x voucher for 10 training sessions at Cyril and You To claim your prize, please email Vu Ha Kim Vy on vy@wordvietnam. com. A big thank you to all our sponsors!

wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 51

Insider

SAVAGE INDEPENDENCE // TWO LIVES SAVED // UPWARDLY MOBILE // 101 THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT VIETNAM // HEAVEN ON EARTH // THE B-BOY WORLD CUP // VIDEO BLOGGING IN VIETNAM // A WISE DRAFT // MYSTERY DINER HANOI // STREET SNACKER HANOI // FASHION // TEACHING ENGLISH IN SUDAN // GIVE VIENTIANE A CHANCE // AIRPORT STORIES PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

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Ma Pi Leng Pass in the Dong Van Highlands, Ha Giang

wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 53

insider MANY FACES

HANOI

Savage Independence As the founders and driving forces behind Hanoi art space Manzi, Tram Vu and Bill Nguyen are helping to define Vietnamese art for a new generation. Words by Katie Jacobs. Photo by Nick Ross

he piercing blue eyes ringed in black shadows stare at me intensely from across the room. Set into a face that looks half-human, half-bird, the painting confidently surveys its territory like a hawk from a nest. That territory is Manzi, a place that co-founders Tram Vu and Bill Nguyen describe as part art space, part performance venue, and part café and bar. Since opening, Manzi’s calm interior has become a familiar and welcome respite from the city’s hectic streets. Meeting there regularly with my writers’ club, the long communal tables topped with cheerful flowers serve as the perfect place to discuss our writing — the ever-changing artwork never failing to inspire. Paintings hang from every surface, the human-bird portrait just one of the many interesting pieces adorning the walls. A small shop on the second floor sells work by Vietnamese artists. “We are trying to test the local market,” says Tram. “Most wealthy Vietnamese are only interested in buying cars and brands, they don’t think about investing in art. We are slowly trying to change that.”

Art for the People In founding Manzi, Tram and Bill managed to create a space that effortlessly blurs the boundaries between café and gallery. “It was originally Tram’s idea to create an art space that also functions as a café and bar,” says Bill. “This was a bit of an experiment and we developed this really ambitious plan to test a new model for exhibiting art in Hanoi.” Working as the art manager at the British Council for a decade, Tram left to become a freelance art consultant for galleries and studios around the country. It was during this period that she approached Bill with the idea for Manzi. “Manzi was established with the aim to develop an audience for art, to promote contemporary art and to support Vietnamese artists,” says Tram. “Artists doing creative work often don’t know how to run a studio or gallery, so we created Manzi as a place for them.”

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There is another connection Manzi’s blurred lines are attempting to reach — an audience that normally wouldn’t enter a gallery. Tram says, “We wanted it to be an easy place for everyone to enjoy art in a relaxed space.”

The Future As the conversation continues, the comfortable and respectful relationship between Bill and Tram becomes increasingly apparent. Although from different generations — Tram was born in 1973 and Bill in 1988 — the duo work seamlessly together, ideas and topics bouncing between them as they finish the other’s sentences and talk over each other. I ask if they are artists themselves. “I was trained in fine arts,” Bill says — he graduated from Nottingham Trent University in 2009. “But I haven’t really made much recently.” “Yes, you have,” cuts in Tram. “You have done many things, especially in performance art.” “Yeah, but they were really just experiments,” he says. Tram brushes over his modesty. “I think Bill will be a very important curator in the future of Vietnam,” she says. “He has a good critical mind and understands the scene. But more importantly, he can understand the artist. I think he could be one of the best.” “I don’t know, I have a long way to go,” Bill says, shrugging. “I feel like I don’t belong anywhere — but I feel like this rootlessness is really important in my work, so I can sneak in between places of knowledge and link different worlds.” They’ve both seen the local art scene slowing down. “2006 was a big time for contemporary art in Vietnam, but since then it has been very slow,” says Tram. They haven’t seen much from the recent university graduates and they lament the old fashioned education many young artists are receiving. “There is no depth to their work, they are not taught to think critically,” says Bill. But a new generation of innovative new artists could be just around the corner. “There is the potential for Bill’s generation

to be really good,” says Tram. Vietnam is changing rapidly, and the current crop of young artists have more access to the world than ever before. They both feel that the influence and information pouring in from around the globe is great for artistic creativity, as long as young artists are able to filter the information and create something meaningful.

Into Thin Air It is clear that Tram and Bill genuinely love their work at Manzi and are eager to welcome all forms of art. “We’re open for anything really, as long as it’s good quality,” says Bill. Just as he says this, a package of clothes is delivered for a conceptual fashion show they will host later in the month — the clothes portray images of altar paintings depicting the 18 levels of Buddhist hell. As if fashion shows, photography exhibitions and music nights aren’t enough, Tram and Bill are also planning a public art series entitled Into Thin Air — a project that will contract artists to create one-off pieces for public spaces around the city. They hope this will challenge both the artist and the public. “There is no public art in Hanoi,” says Tram, “and we want to give artists that freedom and audiences that access.” Art and public space belongs to both everyone and no-one, and Into Thin Air aims to tie this concept into the limitless imagination that encapsulates art-making. “However, this is all contingent on funding,” says Bill. “We are looking everywhere for grants we can apply for.” Neither Tram nor Bill can tell me what the future holds for the Hanoi art world or for Manzi, but one thing is for sure — they will continue promoting Vietnamese art and they will continue pushing boundaries. “Manzi in Vietnamese means savage; it also means independent and different,” explains Tram. “By naming our art space Manzi, we show that we are an integral part of the local art scene, but also act as an independent entity.” Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

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insider

INSIDER

HCMC

Two Lives Saved Although The Heart Institute has helped over 4,000 children in their 22 years of existence, every heart they put right matters. Words by Margaret Smith. Photos by Francis Xavier

lthough a bit small for his age, two-year-old Thach Xuan Thai is like any growing boy: curious, squirmy and full of energy. He’s so friendly that he’ll give a high-five to anyone he meets, and he loves running laps up and down his family’s alley. If you had met Thai a year ago, however, a much different boy would have greeted you. Thai was born with three different heart diseases: an intra-ventricular complication — otherwise known as a hole between his two heart ventricles; a mitral valve disease in his left atrium; and arterial hypertension that was caused by the two other diseases. He had almost no muscle for the first year of his life, and was so easily tired that he spent most of the day lying down. Unfortunately, Thai’s case isn’t so rare in Vietnam. According to the Centre Medical International (CMI) in Ho Chi Minh City, an outpatient clinic in District 1, one out of every 100 Vietnamese children is born with a congenital heart disease, and often it goes untreated for years. That’s where the Heart Institute comes in. Funded by the CMI, the Heart Institute provides cardiac care to children from underprivileged families all over

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Vietnam. Founded by the Alain Carpentier Foundation, in conjunction with the Vietnamese government, they’ve helped 4,000 children in the past 22 years.

Map of the Heart How has the Heart Institute managed to have such an impact? According to Maelle Jarlier, the CMI’s chief financial officer, patients with families that can afford to pay, do. The Heart Institute will often help them find this money, and it can come from a variety of different resources, including health insurance — which all Vietnamese children receive until the age of six — extended family and even their local community. For those families that can’t pay or can only cover a portion of the costs, the Heart Institute, with approval from the CMI, will cover the rest. Families that apply for funding need to get certification from the Vietnamese government to prove their lack of financial resources. “We will always make sure that [the payment is] complete to be sure they are operated on,” Jarlier says. In Thai’s case, his family could only pay for one-third of his surgery costs. Both his grandmother and his aunt sell lottery tickets for a living, while his mother stays at home — a room that their family rents in District 4 — to take care of Thai and his sister. The father isn’t in the picture. After learning how weak Thai was, he asked for a divorce and left, his mother says. Thai had surgery in August 2013. He was in the hospital for two weeks and had two different operations: one to close the hole in his heart and another to repair his mitral valve. The surgery costs added up to nearly VND70 million. According to Dr. Nam Phuong, CMI’s leading cardiologist, Thai would have died without surgery due to severe hypertension. His lung would have been severely damaged, causing a lung embolism or a heart failure. Today there is only one sign that he has had major surgery: a small, thin scar that starts just under his collarbone and stops midway down his chest. You can barely see

it under his shirt as he bounces up and down.

An Undeniable Impact One-year-old Nguyen Bao Long’s case isn’t as extreme as Thai’s. Long, who also has Down’s syndrome, was born with a hole in his heart between the lower chambers, otherwise known as a ventricular septal defect. His condition is very treatable, and it most likely won’t require any open-heart surgery. If everything goes according to plan, he’ll only have to stay at the hospital for two days. Yet the surgery fees are still hefty. Long’s operation will cost nearly VND74 million, a price that his parents can’t afford. According to the Heart Institute’s file, Long’s mother sells vegetables at the market, while his father works in construction. Their whole family lives in a garage of sorts they rent out in District 12; surrounded by a few sturdy walls, it’s covered in front by sheets and tarp. They moved to Ho Chi Minh City eight years ago from the north, hoping to find work. The CMI has agreed to pay about 60 percent of the operation costs, while Long’s health insurance will cover the rest. This money is only for the surgery, though, and it doesn’t provide any help for the cost of medicine and the hospital room fee. According to Dr. Do Thi Kim Chi, if the hole in Long’s heart isn’t closed, the blood stream flowing through will make it larger and larger. “He will have difficulty growing, and he won’t have good health,”

Dr. Chi explains. “He will grow slower than others.” Luckily, the Heart Institute has never had to deny a case, no matter how small the operation. All the profits from the CMI go directly to the Heart Institute, and they raise additional money at their annual charity gala. This year’s charity gala is at the Park Hyatt Saigon Nov. 22. “I’m lucky,” Jarlier says with a laugh. “This is why the CMI [has] the charity gala, to have enough money to be able to not deny any case.” For more information about CMI, the Heart Institute and their annual charity gala, go to cmi-vietnam.com. All the profits from CMI’s medical clinic next to Notre Dame Cathedral go back into The Heart Institute to provide heart surgery for the underprivileged

“Thai would have died without surgery due to severe hypertension. His lung would have been severely damaged, causing a lung embolism or a heart failure” wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 57

THE CITY

HCMC

Upwardly Mobile The story of the street Phan Xich Long shows how urban regeneration can revitalise an area. Words by Nick Ross. Photos by Francis Xavier

have an afternoon meeting in Starbucks. Starbucks. Not the American coffee brand redesigned for Vietnam in Central Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. No. The outlet on Phan Xich Long Street in Ho Chi Minh City’s Phu Nhuan. The choice of meeting place is a compromise. I work in District 1, my client is in Tan Binh. Phu Nhuan is somewhere in between. But the cafe choice also works — I’m trying to front a positive image. In Vietnam Starbucks wins brownie points. My memories of Phan Xich Long are of a shortcut. Named after a 20th-century mystic and geomancer who claimed to be the emperor of Vietnam — he said he was descended from Ham Nghi — the road is blessed with space. Four lanes are separated by a grassy central reservation that acts as a quick route between Go Vap, Tan Binh

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and District 1. It was a way of avoiding the main arteries as I headed in and out of town. That was six years ago where at least twice a month I had to head out to Go Vap. I had learnt the back routes, I had navigated the alleyways and I discovered this road. It was incongruous. While elsewhere the streets of Phu Nhuan were maze-like and airless, here was the type of boulevard that you would be more likely to find in a new city. And that’s what it was. A new city. A new dust-filled suburb under construction. My next set of visits were four years ago when I had a number of meetings with a client out there. “Why is your office out here,” I remember asking the client. “The rent’s cheap,” she replied, “and you only need to go over a small bridge to get to District 1 and Tan Dinh Market.”

She was right. This area is deceptively close to downtown Saigon. Located just on the other side of Nhieu Loc Canal, in just 15 minutes or even 10 you find yourself in the heart of the city. District 1 is just on the other side of the canal.

Regeneration If ever an area in this country has benefited from urban regeneration it’s Phu Nhuan, and in particular the streets in the vicinity of Phan Xich Long. Located on the edge of Nhieu Loc Canal, rewind ten years and the place was a mess. The canal smelt, emitting a constant odour of sulphur that got stronger with the rain. The houses here were rundown, many without proper water systems. And even though this was the place to go for Ho Chi Minh City street food — it was the first area in town where you could

“This once dusty building site is now a middle class area — you just need to look at the villas on the side streets to see the wealth” buy almost every dish around Vietnam — the place was unwholesome. The change started with the regeneration of the Nhieu Loc Canal Basin. A project sponsored by The World Bank, not only was the canal dredged and cleaned up, the main sewerage system around the canal area was dug up and replaced. The disruption, particularly around Le Van Sy and Nam Ky Khoi Nghia on the other end of Phu Nhuan, lasted for just under a decade. Traffic was diverted, roads were dug up, and oddly, no-one quite understood what work was actually being done. “They’re putting the electric cables underground,” was the main prognosis.

As the end of the project neared conclusion in 2012, so the lipstick arrived — the surface development that has made the whole area surrounding the canal what it is today. First came the high-rises, then the walkways, greenery and the purchasing of old houses that were knocked down and rebuilt. While the whole of the canal all the way to the edge of Tan Binh has benefitted from the regeneration, it’s the area around Phan Xich Long that has seen the largest explosion of wealth and change. Location is key. Phan Xich Long is so close to District 1 that moving just slightly out of town or that much nearer is a nobrainer. This once dusty building site is now

a middle class area. You just need to look at the villas on the side streets to see the wealth. Named after flowers — Hoa Mai, Hoa Cuc, Hoa Hong, Hoa Lan, Hoa Phuong and Hoa Dao — the terraced houses on these roads are built three or four storeys high. Some resemble French-era constructions, but most mix architectural styles, demonstrating the whims of their owners. With the local population have come the restaurants, cafes and other businesses to fulfill their needs. Lotteria, Givral, Starbucks, Tokyo Deli, Baskin Robbins, Sumo BBQ, Pizza Hut, Nice Karaoke, Thai Express and Popeye’s are all here. There are also English language training schools,

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“While elsewhere the streets of Phu Nhuan were maze-like and airless, here was the type of boulevard that you would be more likely to find in a new city. And that’s what it was. A new city. A new dust-filled suburb under construction” Hoan My Hospital, a granite pagoda, Rach Mieu Sports Centre, the ASEAN Dental Center, Uma and an international school. It’s probably the largest concentration of ‘modern’ businesses outside the purposebuilt suburbs and shopping malls in the whole of Vietnam. There are even guesthouses advertising hour-long hotel stays for VND50,000. Two hours cost 70.

Early Morning Its 7am and just opposite the front gates of Rach Mieu Sports Centre, the exercise afficionados are in full throttle. From inside the sports centre the background music of an aerobics or step class blasts out of the speakers. Members here have a choice of sports and exercise options — yoga, ballroom dancing, billiards, gym work, swimming, aikido, kick boxing, taekwondo. Outside on the park by the canal, the exercise facilities are free. Three women take it in turn on one of the mini park’s, non-electronic walking machines. Next to her a man is in full sweat mode on the cross trainer while a woman in between dressed in beige brown pyjamas is rolling her wrist and

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performing what looks like an inane series of neck, stomach and hip stretches. After a few minutes, though, she starts to sweat. Elsewhere walkers and runners of all ages amble by, some along the river promenade, others on the sidewalk opposite. Cyclists pedal down the road, many on expensive bikes. It's the kind of scene you can watch for hours. The flora and walkways created along the canal have in their turn created a rare green setting in the heart of urban, concrete suburbia, a perfect hub for people to get some respite from the life of the city. And on the other side of the canal, observing it all is the towering Chua Van Tho, a recently spruced up pagoda with its towers, gold-painted dragons and statues of the various Buddhist deities looking out across the water. This is Phan Xich Long, an inner city model of regeneration and middle-class aspiration. I decide to avoid Starbucks this time for my early morning dose of caffeine and head to Café Moc on Hoa Mai with its rustic wooden paneling, quality sound system and walls decorated by old hi-fi equipment.

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Cover Story

Words by Katie Jacobs, Hoa Le, Ed Weinberg and Nick Ross. Photos by Kyle Phanroy, Francis Xavier, Glen Riley, David Harris and Julie Vola Read through the news and of

In today’s world there is a belief that it’s only negative news and sensation that sells units or draws in readers. And when it’s straight PR, readers just seem to switch off.

political interests? In our humble opinion, no. And with Vietnam often being the recipient of negative press, we decided to do the opposite this month and give you the anti-cover story, one that remembers all that’s good about this country. And believe us, from quirks to coffee, language to arts, culture and dramatic landscapes, there’s a lot. Far more than we could ever place in these fair pages.

Is the world really such a bad place, one where the only things we talk about are either negative or influenced by corporate or

So read on and join with us in celebrating all that is good about this country we live in — Vietnam.

No.1 every ten stories, eight will be negative and two will be PR. Rarely will there be a story that is genuinely positive.

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No.2

No.3

Coconuts

Cafés

The number of cafés in Vietnam is perhaps only exceeded by the number of motorbikes here. There are so many of them, and the style of each goes beyond diverse. From kitsch, communist-themed cafés like Hanoi’s Cong Caphe to the sleek, colonial charms of Saigon’s L’Usine, from cafés devoted to fans of Trinh Cong Son (Hanoi’s Caphe Nhac Trinh) to cafés devoted to fans of Japanese weirdness (Saigon maid cafés Viet Moe and The Other Person); there are as many places to take your coffee as there are methods of preparation. New trends are evolving all the time — from the pet cafés that are lately flooding Vietnam’s biggest cities to the evolving artisanship of Hanoi’s Oriberry and Saigon’s [a] café. And of course, we can’t forget the typical street café — their low wooden or plastic tables make it easy to get a ca phe sua da wherever you go. Just get lost in any coffee shop on Hanoi’s Trieu Viet Vuong — also known as coffee street — or in Saigon’s Phu Nhuan District. Somehow, we think you’ll find your fix.

They drop on your head. Fortunately their contents can also drop in your mouth, although you need to open them first. In Vietnam coconuts are cheap, nutritious and very, very tasty.

No.4

Flower Markets

The best-smelling markets around, these pre-dawn hubs of greenery are brightened by neat lotus flowers in summer and cheerful wild roses in winter.

Long Bien Bridge

No.5

The iconic iron peaks of Hanoi’s oldest bridge have transported trains, bikes and pedestrians across the Red River for over 110 years. And no, contrary to legend it wasn’t built by Gustave Eiffel.

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No.6

Pagoda Yellow

Deep, ubiquitous and full of mystique, pagoda yellow is found everywhere in Vietnam, and not just on the walls of the country’s temples.

CenturyNo.7 Old Temples

The oldest temple in Vietnam was built in AD182 and finished in AD226. Chua Dau in Bac Ninh Province, 30km away from Hanoi, is the first hub of Buddhism in the country. Rebuilt in 1313 by King Tran Anh Tong, the temple has gone through many periods of renovation. But what’s made

Chua Dau special is still evident today — its 101 Buddha statues or its nearly 300-year-old copper bells. There are nearly 15,000 Buddhist temples across the country, most of which were built so long ago that they have become an essential part of life for residents in the neighbourhood. For a Khmer version of the humble pagoda, head to Soc Trang or Tra Vinh in the Mekong Delta. Here some of the temples date back 1,500 years.

No.8

Paddy Fields

No.9

Alleyways — Ngo, Kiet and Hem

No.10

Countryside Churches

Take a trip to Ke Sat in the northern province of Hai Duong, and you’ll stumble across a church as large as, if not larger than, the cathedral in Hanoi. Phat Diem Church in Ninh Binh, probably the best-known church in the north, is equal in size and of even greater renown. Head out to Bac Giang and into the countryside, and suddenly you see churches soaring high above the fields. Built in the early 20th century, these houses of worship act as focal points for a once, strongly religious community. The separation of Vietnam into north and south in 1954 changed all that — most Catholics from the north moved south. But the architecture remains. It’s certainly something to behold.

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Take the Lang Hoa Lac highway just 50km out of central Hanoi, and you will end up in the beautiful village of Duong Lam. It’s no surprise to find yourself lost down roads that look like they did 100 years ago. From the village gates to the lotus pond, the

bamboo bush to the limestone walls, the old tiled roofs, the Han-Viet lettering above doorways — they all create a perfect picture of Vietnamese traditional villages, with beauty, charm and peace. Duong Lam is the only village near Hanoi that still keeps a large percentage of its houses in their original shape — some are 400 years old. Take a careful look at

the carvings on their wooden awnings or their curved roofs, and you will see some sophisticated works of art. Despite an increasing number of daytrippers hopping into the village or Vietnamese couples using the place as a backdrop to their wedding photos, the ambience of the past is still there — hopefully it won’t disappear anytime soon.

Photo by Francis Roux

No.11

Duong Lam

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No.12

West Lake

Once connected directly to the Red River, West Lake has been a geographical feature of Hanoi for centuries and the inspiration for many folk stories. Once home to summer palaces for Vietnamese royalty, the area is a hive of activity for many Hanoi residents. On weekends the lake’s

The Wild, No.13 Wild North

Sapa, Bac Ha, Ha Giang, Cao Bang, Dien Bien Phu, Son La: the edge of the Vietnamese empire, the home to large numbers of this country’s ethnic minorities, the jewel of the north, the location of the most astounding

No.14

Wildlife

From remote mountainous regions and stunning limestone karst landscapes to dense forest and picturesque coastline, Vietnam is famous for her diverse ecosystems and habitats. But Vietnam is not just blessed with a high level of biodiversity — it is blessed with unique, endemic species that are still

National No.15 Parks

Despite illegal exploitation, Vietnamese still nurtures an impressive variety of fauna and flora in its 30 national parks. While Phong Nha-Ke Bang in Quang Binh Province has lately gotten all the publicity — a UNESCO World Heritage site and home to the world’s largest cave,

Grandmas No.16 Wearing Pyjamas

17km shoreline is packed with people riding bikes, walking dogs, fishing and socialising. For the really keen there are also swan boats and kayaks as well as the delights of the water park. In the evening, the colourful lights of Hanoi’s skyline glisten along the shore, and on clear days you can glimpse the hills surrounding the city.

natural beauty in Vietnam. It’s wild yet with development, much of the area has been tamed. It’s breathtaking, yet with the building of new villages and towns, it now boasts pockets of concrete in all its ugliness. It’s traditional, it’s conservative, it’s cold and rainy yet hot and humid in the blistering northern summer. And it’s the only part of Vietnam you may get snow.

being discovered today. Over the past two decades scientists have unveiled four previously unknown mammal species. One of which is the rare saola, an almost mythical, antelope-like animal that nobody knew existed. It is undeniable that effective wildlife conservation has become an issue throughout Vietnam, but as environmental awareness grows, the next generation is set to lead Vietnam into a bright and healthy future.

Son Doong — Ba Be National Park is the pride of the north with its beautiful giant lake. There is also Cuc Phuong National Park, home to a primate conservation centre that has rescued some of the world’s most rare and endangered langurs. And of course, Nam Cat Tien, once home to the Javanese rhino. Take a trip to any of those parks and add one more word to your Vietnamese travel journal: spectacular!

No.17

Hanoi Rock City

It could be local, it could be international, it could be rock or rap, dubstep or folk. Any way it comes, there is usually some type of talent on show at the largest dedicated music venue in Hanoi. With a downstairs, English-style pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City has been making a huge impact on Hanoi’s arts scene since its opening four years ago.

No.18

Cargo Bar

Built out of an old warehouse on the District 4 banks of the Saigon River, the opening of Cargo Bar (and its larger version, Q4), has revolutionized the music scene in this city. Where before there was nothing, suddenly there’s a venue to go to, a ready-made space to attract the audience and stage the acts.

No.19

Saigon Outcast

Much like Hanoi’s dear departed Zone 9, Outcast is Saigon’s outlet for letting its freak flag fly. When it dropped its retrofitted shipping containers on the far side of Thao Dien in early 2012, it became a place where like minds could gather and collaborate — and now the culture they’ve helped create can be found everywhere.

No.20

Sailing Club

Twenty years and still going strong, Nha Trang’s premier bar still attracts the crow and still takes full advantage of its beachside location. To this day, there’s yet to be another venue in Vietnam that regularly draws in 2,000 people at the weekend. Quite an achievement.

No.21 The American Club

With a wide lawn, volleyball and basketball courts, and some of the most exciting outdoor events in the city, the American Club adds flavour to Hanoi’s cultural scene. The events here are as diverse as the organisations that host them: from the embassy to independent groups; from mud parties to music festivals, the American Club is always a great place to visit and socialise.

No.22

CAMA ATK

For music and bar lovers in Hanoi, especially those who love that hip, speakeasy vibe, event space CAMA ATK is the place to go. Opened by CAMA, the first independent music promoter to bring international music acts to Hanoi, it’s home to original music and international, non-mainstream DJs, as well as an eclectic mix of music, film and comedy. For cocktail aficionados, ATK serves some of the best mixed drinks in the city, too.

No.23

Rag and Bone Ladies

Vietnamese No.24 Women

Get fooled by the slight frame and well made-up facade at your peril. Vietnam's

female population are a force to be recognised with. So proud is Vietnam of its Asian tigresses, that they have a Woman's Museum in Hanoi dedicated to their prowess as well as institutes all over the country devoted to the advancement of women.

No.25 Motorbikes

No.27

Plastic Stools

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No.28

Wearing Raincoats

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No.29

Water Puppets

Dating back to the 12th century, water puppets started as a common form of outdoor entertainment for both children and adults in the countryside. The sculpted wooden puppets are fitted with floats and an ingenious system of rods and wires, and are operated by puppeteers standing in water up to their chests behind the stage. Telling stories inspired by both the daily lives of rice growers as well as mythology, dragons, serpents, silver and gold fish, peasants and their flocks of ducks, fishermen and their catches all come to life through the puppets’ exaggerated actions and humourous gestures. The show is made whole by a live band playing cheo music.

No.30

Vietnamese Dong

No.33

Floating Markets

Shiny purple eggplants, squat squash and furry zucchini bob on spindly poles far above the jumble of boats and people vying for river space in the Mekong Delta’s floating markets. In the cool dawn light, sellers and patrons jump skilfully from boat to boat — buying, selling and haggling over the day’s fresh produce.

No.35

Bum No.34 Guns Ballroom Dancing in the Park Waltz, tango, rumba or quickstep. Who needs Strictly Ballroom or Come Dancing when you can do it yourself in Hanoi’s parks?

Forget comparisons with the relative strength of the British Pound, The Euro or the US Dollar. Not every country can say that the majority of their population are millionaires. But Vietnam can. Even better for English speakers are the puns: "Put your dong in your pocket," and "Keep your dong to yourself". Just a few of the giggleinducing wordplays out there.

No.31

Rice Wine

Ruou de, ruou chuoi, ruou can, ruou nep, ruou thuoc, ruou mo qua, ruou go den… The list of ruou, or rice wine, peculiar to Vietnam goes on. And if you want to drink your ruou with style, the Son Tinh range out of Hanoi is the way to go — apricot, red plum, white ginseng, Minh Mang and passion fruit. They’ve even got their own selection of cocktail recipes. Devil’s fart, anyone?

No.32

Auspicious Days

Have you ever noticed a day when it seems everywhere you go, you see a wedding? Or that certain day after the Tet holidays that the shops and stores reopen altogether? That’s because most Vietnamese people believe there are certain good days to start an important journey, such as a new married life or a business venture. They go to see a fortuneteller, who picks a date for them from the lunar calendar, with consideration for their astrological signs. And there are days that it’s common knowledge to avoid. There is a Vietnamese saying that goes: “Cho di ngay bay, cho ve ngay ba” — which literally means “Don’t go out on the 7th and come back on the 3rd”. And people believe it’s best to avoid doing business on these unlucky days. Unlikely as it may seem, many believe that this was created from the experience of people in the past, so it won’t be wrong.

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The Smell of Bun Cha and Suon Nuong No.36

Hanoi late morning. The aroma of pork on the barbecue drifts through the streets in preparation for that lunchtime favourite, bun cha. Saigon early morning, and sweetgrilled suon, or pork cutlets, get stoked over the outdoor coals, readied for that very Saigonese of accompaniments — bitty rice or com tam. A health hazard? Yes. The open barbecues are hardly the definition of safety. But it smells so good that who cares. It tastes even better.

No.37

No.40 Bia Hoi

Autumn in Hanoi

For many people, autumn is the most beautiful and romantic season of the year. This is particularly true for Hanoi. Those long summer days with the humidity and intense heat are suddenly gone and replaced by pleasant days with that perfect temperature, which gets everyone into a sweeter mood. Although it normally lasts for just a couple of weeks, people seize the opportunity to get out of the house and walk through the fallen leaves on Phan Dinh Phung, or enjoy the nice breeze on the West Lake. During autumn, life in Hanoi can’t be any better.

No.41

Green Tea

If you’re looking for a taste that defines Vietnam, pull up a chair at any of the simple tea stands across the country. Tea, tra or che has been in Vietnam 10,000 years, and there are still three million Vietnamese people who work in the national tea industry, which exports tea to 70 countries. It greets the first hours of the morning or a guest when they enter a home; families sip on

it when they celebrate at weddings and when they grieve at funerals; teenagers drink sweetened concoctions; old men sit around quaffing bitter, golden brews, as they smoke cigarettes and play chess. Day or night, someone somewhere is sipping on tea. And what’s more? It’s believed that the elixir helps prevent potential maladies that come with time, as well as helping to reduce cholesterol and aid digestion. So much so that it’s a common question, have you taken your tea today yet?

No.38 Lotus Ponds

No.39

Funeral Music

The evocative sounds generated from a band playing bells, drums, a two-stringed fiddle, a pair of cymbals, a flute and sometimes a three-stringed lute is something you won’t hear anywhere else. In Saigon this has been adapted to include a brass band. The sounds are supposed to evoke a deep longing for the dead, but at the same time, to recognise the beauty of being alive. The music played in the ritual is supposed to accompany the deceased relative to the land of Buddha, and usually lasts from one to three days, depending on the family.

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No.42

Temple Food

Thanks to the influence of Buddhism, vegetarian cuisine is big in Vietnam. Served up in temples and a growing amount of flash eateries around the country, the most devout Buddhists don’t let a scrap of

meat or dairy enter their holy mouths. While the less devout followers of this sacred way of life go vegetarian on the 1st and 15th of the lunar month, so the rise of vegetarian cuisine has led to the creation of a non-meat, vegan diet that these days can be easily adhered to. If you don’t mind faux meat, that is.

No.43

Da Cau (Jianzi)

Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s national sport. Who would have thought that a shuttlecock and a net could create so much excitement?

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No.44 Flower Arrangements

No.45

Humidity

“It’s not the heat, it’s the humidity” are the words on everyone’s lips come the northern summer. But who says that’s a bad thing — plants are always green, cold beer tastes even better, and a beach is never too far away, making it easy to cool off. Besides, with constant dampness encasing the hair and skin, who needs moisturiser or a curling iron?

No.46

No.48 Ca Phe Phin

Beach Weather

With year-round summer in the south and long months of warm weather in the north, the time is always right to enjoy the country’s long stretches of powdery white sand, hidden coves and tropical islands. Whether it’s Phu Quoc in January or Danang in July, you’ll always find beach weather somewhere along Vietnam’s 3,600km of coastline.

No.49

Japanese Cuisine

No-one knows for sure, but there’s well over 400 Japanese restaurants in Vietnam now, and most of them — at least the ones catering for Japanese customers — are excellent. So good, in fact, that with the correct imported ingredients and well-trained chefs, you can eat fare in Vietnam that’s as good as the offering you’ll get in Japan.

No.50 Noodles No.51

Kim Chi

Korea is in Vietnam in a big way. Not just in terms of investment, factories, a large expat population and construction, but also with its pop culture and, of course, its cuisine. So popular is the Korean guise that for years Vietnamese food processing companies have been producing their own version of kim chi. It’s not as good as the original, but it’s not far off.

No.52 Banh Mi

No.47

All That Mam

Nuoc mam, mam tom, mam ruoc, mam cha, mam tet. The list of mam, or fermented sauces,

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goes on. Some is for dipping, some is for cooking, and some just simply smells terrible. But we love it anyway. Vietnam just wouldn’t be Vietnam without all that mam.

Dyed Poultry No.53

Cultural No.54 Centres

Touring musicians, art exhibitions, upand-coming DJs and foreign film festivals — these are just a few of the activities on offer at the various cultural centres around Vietnam. With a wide array of entertainment, the centres offer a place to learn about different cultures, meet people from around the world and perhaps even study a foreign language. Venues such

The Rainy No.55 Season

as L’Espace, Idecaf, the Korean Cultural Centre, the Goethe Institut and the Japan Foundation are important mediums for cultural engagement, and contribute significantly towards the diversity of Vietnam’s social scene. Often attached to embassies and consulates, they fulfil one of the most fundamental forms of diplomacy — encouraging people-to-people interactions and cultural exchange to foster deeper understanding of different cultures. But above all, they are cool spaces to hang out, enjoy the interesting events and just have fun.

Manzi Arts No.56 Café and Gallery

Beautifully designed in a colonial-era villa with a bright white interior and decorated by a constant flow of art exhibitions, Manzi is Hanoi’s contribution to the contemporary art world. It’s the combination of a café, arts shop, gallery space, performing stage and occasional debating platform that has made Manzi a regular meeting point for many home-grown artists and art lovers. Having a chill-out morning with friends in this stunning space isn’t a bad idea, either.

No.57

Suzanne Lecht

No.58

Mountain Cold

Dalat at all times of the year. Tam Dao in the summer. Bach Ma and Ba Na from March to September. The northern highlands from late spring to late autumn. It’s a respite, a chance to breath, an opportunity to escape the often insatiable heat of the lowlands. Breathe that mountain cold deep into your lungs and wow, not even a whiff of the pollution of the big cities.

Art No.59 San Experimental and

contemporary are two sides of the same coin at Saigon’s hub of the new: the artist-led gallery, reading room and arts advocacy organisation San Art. In their seven years of activity, they’ve brought artists and art theorists together to lecture, exhibit and generally serve their mission — the fostering of a Southeast Asian arts community with an unshakeable identity.

No.60

Craig Thomas

No.61

Quynh Pham

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No.62

The Gang of Five

At the beginning of the 1990s a group of five Hanoi-based artists exploded onto the art scene. Known as ‘The Gang of Five’, its members include Ha Tri Hieu, Tran Luan, Hong Viet Dung, Dang Xuan Hoa and Pham Quang Vinh. Graduates of the University of Fine Arts, although the work of each artist was stylistically quite unique, they had a common theme. For the first time since 1975, Vietnamese artists were producing work no longer connected to social realism and propaganda art. With their work exhibited in Hong Kong at the Plum Blossoms gallery, the show, Uncorked Soul, was to change the way the world viewed Vietnamese contemporary art. Suddenly foreign collectors were flying into Vietnam to buy up works not just by The Gang of Five, but other Vietnamese artists, too. And with the arrival in Vietnam of art dealer and curator, Suzanne Lecht, who made it her mission to promote Vietnamese art, contemporary art in this country got its first, post-war boost. Now art is thriving and many artists in Vietnam have received international recognition. But if it wasn’t for The Gang of Five and the championing of Vietnamese art by Suzanne Lecht, the contemporary arts scene in this country could be in a very different place.

HipNo.63 hop and Skating

Twenty years and counting. The hip-hop and skating scenes are continuing to rack up the followers. Fancy doing some body popping, anyone?

Expat Bands

No.64

The Hi-Jinks, The Electric Yard Dogs, Mecha Sasquatch, The 67s, The Freckled Gypsys, UGWAE, Space Panther, James and the Van Der Beeks. There are a lot of them around at the moment. Let’s hope some of them, at least, are here to stay.

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No.65

The Business Climate

The international credit crunch in 2008 was when it all started to go wrong. Well, not quite, but the boom days of the previous five years were no longer quite so boom. Fortunately they’ve also not gone quite so bust either. You can see the business climate in Vietnam in two ways. You can go negative and focus on the stalled construction projects, the lack of liquid assets, the supposed red tape that bars businessmen from getting things done, the lack of profitability of SEOs and the issues with bad debt. But to do that is to miss something quite vital about this country. It’s a land of opportunity. There’s more competition these days, and you can no longer get away with doing something half-arsed. But come up with a good business concept, and the start-up costs are still relatively low. Get your model right from the offset and you’ve also got a fair chance of making it a success. Labour remains relatively cheap, there are many niche markets yet to be tapped, and the Vietnamese population is constantly crying out for something that is bigger and better. The business climate is still good in Vietnam. And those in the know are taking of advantage of it.

Cheap Cigarettes The Bitexco No.68 Tower No.67

No.69 Dive Bars No.70

No.71

BBQ Restaurants Names

Do you ever wonder where all those onesyllable Vietnamese names come from? They can mostly be traced back to the old chu nom — the Chinese characters that were formerly used to communicate Chinese-Vietnamese words. Often they carry beautiful and deep meanings that younger generations may not be aware of. And don’t let the spelling trick you. Some names may look ‘funny’ in English, but older generations put a lot of thought and expectation into them. Just to give a few examples: Phuc — ‘Good Luck’; Bich — ‘Jade’; Long — ‘Dragon’; Son — ‘Mountain’; Nguyet — ‘Moon’; Duc — ‘Morality’.

No.72

The Tones

Dau sac, dau huyen, dau nang, dau hoi, dau nga, khong dau… Master the tones, and you’re speaking what some linguists call one of the most difficult languages in the world. Fail to get your tones right and you’ll get smiles, laughter and just won’t be understood. Vietnamese is a melody, a set of melodies, and the tones are the notes. Understand that and you’ll be singing in no time.

No.73

Dialects

Take Hanoi Vietnamese and Saigon Vietnamese, and so different are the dialects that you might as well have two languages, as similar and as distant from each other as Swedish or Norwegian, Dutch or Flemish. Yet the dialects in this country are part of its character, are what makes the various regions unique. Go to Hue and the language has a different melody. Hit Quang Ngai or Quang Nam and it’s unintelligible. Go out of Hanoi and ‘n’s get mistaken for ‘l’s and the ‘l’s mistaken for ‘n’s. And hit the Mekong Delta and all the consonants get dropped.

No.74

Tuc Ngu

Talking with older Vietnamese men or women, and hearing them pepper their speech with traditional sayings can lighten up your day. Some are easy to translate, such as “Tot go hon tot nuoc son” — literally “Better to have a piece of wood with good quality than the one with nice varnish”, figuratively “Don’t judge a book by its cover”. Some aren’t. For example, let’s say you’re attending an elegant concert and fall asleep. Someone might say “Dan gay tai trau” — “Cows are listening to music”. Cows are simple animals that graze muddy fields, and have neither the interest nor the ability to appreciate good music — and perhaps a certain similarity to them is why you fell asleep. In those cases, there’s no need to get angry, just laugh and say, “Nguu tam nguu, ma tam ma” — “Cows hang out with cows, horses hang out with horses” — they’re hanging out with you because they’re on your same level. They will laugh for sure!

No.75

No.66

The Metal Scene

From the dregs of the late 1990s and early 2000s, the metal scene that has developed in Vietnam is as strong as ever. Stage diving, moshing and on-stage fuelled rebellion — all are going from strength to strength.

The Vietnamese 'Yes'

Vang, da, co, duoc — tey all mean okay, have or maybe. But they don’t mean a definitive ‘yes’. Sure, it greys the lines of black and white, and means that life here’s a constant negotiation. But without a definitive word for ‘yes’, it also means that nothing is set in stone. And that can only be a good thing. Everything is possible in Vietnam — there’s always a way. When it comes to getting things done, what could be better?

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Beachside No.76 Resorts

It started in Mui Ne in the mid-1990s, and now they’ve spread up the length and skinny breadth of Vietnam. Some of the

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resorts are truly magnificent — take the InterCon in Danang, Six Senses in Ninh Van Bay and Con Dao, Amanoi in Ninh Thuan. And some are, well, something else. But with all the modern amenities that you could ever wish for, they’ve changed the way people vacation in Vietnam.

No.77 Sapa No.78 Ha Giang No.79 Ninh Binh No.80 Halong Bay No.81 Hoi An No.82 Dalat No.83 Con Dao No.84 Phu Quoc No.85

Buildings for Trees

Reasonably No.88 priced five-stars

Go to London, and a five-star hotel room is going to set you back a minimum of US$700 (VND14.7 million). Hit Singapore, and while the rates won’t be quite as steep, they’re still going to dent your wallet. But Vietnam? Oh, wonderful Vietnam. Here a five-star room starts at US$80 (VND1.7 million) a night and averages out at around US$130 (VND2.7 million). Perfect if you’re looking for that luxury break on the cheap.

No.89

Indochinese Architecture

In an attempt to combat the climatic and cultural inaptness of early colonial architecture, many designs of the 1930s sought to fuse classical European elements with more traditional Asian decorative features in structures that were better suited to Vietnam’s hot climate. These designs, first coined by the influential architect Ernest Hébrard, came to be known as Indochinese style.

No.87

Art Deco

Circular port windows, glass encased staircases, streamlined design — the 1920s and 1930s were an exciting time for urban change and creativity across Vietnam. The first Vietnamese architects were graduating from the Arts School and building villas that rejected the traditional colonial styles, embracing modern international trends.

Very Cheap 3G

Another No.93 Side of Vietnam Expats in No.94 Ho Chi Minh City No.95

Hanoi Grapevine

No.96

Hanoi Massive

No.98

Historic Vietnam

No.99

And of other things

No.100 Tuoi Tre

Zone 9

It came, it saw, it almost conquered. Set in a repurposed pharmaceuticals factory in Hanoi, last year Zone 9 almost became the alternative arts space this country so badly needed. But then there was the fire. Six people were killed and suddenly the health and safety issues came to the fore. The five buildings which housed Zone 9 were crumbling and the place was quickly shut down. For better or for worse? We’ll never know.

No.92

No.97 Any Arena

Buildings with trees coming out of them? That’s exactly what the award-winning construction House of Trees managed to create. Created by architect Vo Trong Nghia in collaboration with Japanese architects Masaaki Iwamoto and Kosuke Nishijima, the Ho Chi Minh City building is being hailed as a feat of sustainable design and creativity. The only problem is that now, everyone who approaches Vo Trong Nghia to design a building for them wants trees growing out of it.

No.86

No.91 Free Wifi

No.101 No.90

Tube Houses

Vietnam’s iconic ‘tube house’ was created centuries ago. Due to the taxation on property frontage, façades extended only two to four metres, yet the buildings would stretch back for up to 60 metres. In the past the tube houses were usually only one storey to ensure that no-one could look down upon the Emperor. Today the style is popular for taxation reasons and its economic use of space in Vietnam’s dense urban centres.

The Word

Well, we couldn’t really leave ourselves out of this one, could we?

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insider

HA GIANG

SPECIAL

Heaven on Earth Ha Giang is touted by those whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve travelled there as the most beautiful place in Vietnam. Nick Ross took a trip up to the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most northerly province to find out for himself

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Zoom, Zoom (Let’s Go to the Countryside) “The bus may be uncomfortable,” warns Zoom. “Sometimes people speak on the phone very loudly and at other times there are babies. My last trip was okay, but you never know.” This is the second time Zoom, or Dung in Vietnamese, has told me this. The four of us — Zoom, Hoa, Quy and myself — have just finished dinner at Foodshop 45 in Hanoi and we are making our way to My Dinh Bus Station. Zoom’s leading our trip to Ha Giang and is trying to make an impression. With a journalist coming along, it’s a chance to show off the self-styled travel company that she set up a year ago. Leading tours into the countryside, sometimes by motorbike or bicycle, sometimes by car or bus, or sometimes even on foot, for the past 12 months Zoom has spent her time taking groups around North and North-Central Vietnam. An American university graduate — she studied in Alaska — and with a one-and-a-half-year stint

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living and working in Malaysia, running tours is a new direction for her. She loves it, but it’s taken its toll. “I’m burnt out,” she says. “I need a break.” Yet as we arrive at the bus station you can see she’s excited. It’s written in her smile. She’s already made a dozen trips to Ha Giang, but there’s always more for her to discover. You can see the anticipation. The sleeper bus comes replete with reclining bunk beds — four to a level either side of the aisle, two levels. Because of all the equipment I’m carrying — computer, camera and lenses — I don’t want to put my bag in the hold. So I pay for an extra bed. It’s a luxury, but I’m still uncomfortable. The beds aren’t just made for difficult sleepers like myself, especially someone who likes to sleep on their side. Here I have to sleep face up. Nine hours later we arrive in Ha Giang City, our sleep interrupted by loud phone

conversations and a midnight stop at a roadside restaurant. I breathe in the early morning air. I may be in the city — but after all these years of wanting to go to Ha Giang, I’m finally here. There is a spring in my step. “I don’t like doing motorbike tours so much,” says Zoom as we eat breakfast. “It can be dangerous.” The experience has taught Zoom to take precautions. One of them is speed. She drives slowly, sometimes infuriatingly slowly. But it’s safe, and at 30 or 40km/h any accidents have been minor. You also get to see the views and stop a lot — our itinerary takes in 100km a day. Within 2km of leaving the city the countryside descends on us. Despite being overcast it’s already breathtaking. We stop, take photos. “Just you wait,” says Zoom. There’s a twinkle in her eye. “Every day the scenery is different.”

The Rain As we enter the national geopark and start heading up into the Dong Van Highlands, the clouds are low, sitting like cotton wool in between the mountains, or looming grey and sullen above. It’s been spitting and the road is slippery, but the scenery is spectacular at every turn. “Oh it’s so nice when the sun’s out and the skies are blue,” says Zoom at a photo stop. “Don’t worry, tomorrow. It’s always bad weather on the first day I arrive.” For me the clouds and the drizzle create atmosphere — what passes in front of my eyes is already what I came here for. Mountains, lush greenery, valleys, small houses and villages. It’s the feeling, too, the emotion of being out of the town and in the wild. City life already belongs to another world. We’re getting wet, but it’s surface water wet, a glistening film appearing over our waterproofs. Zoom has a full raincoat kit — trousers and jacket. Hoa has a

see-through raincoat. Both myself and Quy just have rain jackets — our trousers are getting damp, but we’ll pull through. Halfway through the second pass the sky darkens, the wind starts to swirl and a storm breaks. Our speed slows. Now we’re at 20km/h as the road hugs the side of ravines and falls into twists and breakneck turns. The rain continues to come down, harder, pelting us with anger. A pool of liquid has formed in my shoes, my trousers cling like a wetsuit to my skin. I’ve forgotten to zip my raincoat all the way up to the top — my shirt is sodden and I’m starting to shiver. I left Hanoi with the remnants of the flu. This isn’t good. Still the road winds on through the mountains without a house in sight. We stop, drenched, pause for breath and then continue on. Another 15 minutes and we come to the first house, a wooden-fronted shack

inhabited by a Hmong family. Zoom pulls in and we see two young girls playing on the porch. They have a makeshift swing — two strips of material hanging from a beam. They take turns swinging back and forward, supporting themselves with the strength of their arms. “Can we stop for a bit?” Zoom asks a slightly older girl standing in the doorway. We get a yes and we descend from our bikes out of the rain. It’s cold, very cold, and it’s summer. We stand there shivering, but gradually start to interact with the kids and their mother. Zoom gives them some toys — she’s brought a bunch of masks, fluffy toys and rattles with her — and a conversation picks up. We’re in the middle of it all, taking photos, chatting, laughing, bridging gaps that are otherwise difficult to be bridged. The Hmong are a private people, and here we are in the middle of them.

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The Drunken Husband and the Masks It’s afternoon of day one and the scenery has changed. Within 5km of leaving Quan Ba the mountains start to loom high above, the vegetation becomes sparse, and the rock turns black, volcanic black. “The people are so poor here,” Zoom tells us, directing her arms towards the mountains. “Look at it, they can’t even grow rice. She leads us to a shack next to a school. The Hmong woman living there is someone she’s met a few times. “She’s so poor and I think her husband is a drunk.” “Last time I came here she was sick,” she adds. “I don’t like giving people money — I normally give her food. But I gave her VND100,000 to buy medicine.” Inside the shack the place is a mess. Corn, part ground for food, part whole, sits on a plastic tarpaulin in its midst, and pots and pans are strewn across the floor. Zoom has bought some fluffy toys. She gives one to each of the kids. The smiles emerge. The kids are entranced. We move on and within a couple of kilometres we see a boy chasing a goat down a road. The goat runs into the alley besides us and into the house. We get talking to the boy and his sister, and give them masks that Zoom has brought from Hanoi as a present. But quickly our presence is discovered and more kids arrive. Some are meek, some more confident, but each one is intrigued by the four strangers and the masks. The laughter starts to rise, games start getting played, adults stick their heads out of houses and watch.

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Moon Rock It’s morning in Yen Minh and the town is full of ethnic minorities. Some are Hmong, some are Tay, some are Red Dao. I stand opposite a gas station and watch as they rock up to fill their bikes, or amble down the street with baskets or young kids strapped to their backs. Out of the corner of their eyes they watch me back. Unlike elsewhere in Vietnam, the Hmong here wear a mixture of traditional garb. Some women proclaim their ethnicity through their brightly coloured headscarves; others through pleated dresses or the blouses they wear. The men are uniformly dressed in hemp-woven black shirts. The Red Dao women, however, are in full traditional dress — black garments with a red lining. Their men look like they could be Vietnamese. As we head out of town and up the first set of inclines, there are more people, more ethnic minorities, all walking. It’s market day, I’m told. They’re headed in and out of town. Mostly walking, many are carrying heavy loads up the side of mountains. Only a few are on motorbikes. The inclines get steeper, the houses disappear, the roads start to wind. Still there

are the walkers, colourfully dressed, camera shy, some demanding money if we try to take photos, some looking away in disgust. We get higher up and Zoom points out some cannabis growing on the side of the road. It’s a mild strain, used here for weaving hemp. It’s grown legally. The air starts to get cold, the mist drops and we find ourselves in a governmentconstructed village. It’s called Pho Cao and it’s typically un-Hmong — one wide, straight road with houses on either side made out of concrete. Quy sees something, goes into a house and starts talking to the owner. Hanging outside on the washing line are brightly coloured pink and tartan Hmong scarves. And behind them, barking, is a dog chained up to a small hut. It’s a Hmong Dog. Fluffy, mountainous with an unusual face, it’s different to every other dog in Vietnam. It’s strangely beautiful — I stare at it, it barks back. Inside the house the family are watching a Hmong fighting movie from the US, and the owner, who takes the Vietnamese name Son, is chopping up pork. Although corn, the Hmong staple, is strewn on a

tarpaulin on the floor, you can see this family is relatively wealthy. Relatively. And, by coming down from the mountains to settle in a Vietnamese-constructed village, they’re brave, too. They’re integrating into Vietnamese society. Not too much — the language spoken in the house is still Hmong. But they’re not living lives of mountain isolation. We move on and the road continues to wind and pass through ravines. And then we come upon the first thing to really startle us — a valley filled with black, volcanic rock intermingled with emerald green vegetation. We stop at an observation point for lunch in a place called Sa Phin. Wisps of cloud fill up the valleys below. More black-rock mountains shade like grey and black silhouettes into the background. And the wind is up. Not too high to be painful, but enough to make you breathe the air deeply into your lungs and not let go. There is something unearthly about this place. The rock is not from this planet. It can’t be. Even in the literature on this area this comment is made — moon rock, reads the badly translated English. Moon rock.

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Lung Cu We’re at Lung Cu, the most northerly point in Vietnam, and we’re talking about the village we just passed through. Is it Má Lé, meaning ‘cross-eyed mother’ or Ma Lé — ‘cross-eyed ghost’? We’re so tired from our rain-drenched motorbike drive, which meandered through mountain passes and regal valleys. When we settle on ‘cross-eyed ghost’, we don’t discuss its strangeness. We don’t need to. The scenery here is breathtaking. It defies words. You can describe it, yes — rolling hills, dark mountains, black rock, deep green foliage, terraced fields, winding roads, alpine furs, adobe houses — and with a role of the tongue you can add colour, verbiage for all the foliage, flowers for all the mountains. But words can only capture the emotion this place evokes, not the place itself. Everything that is not the mountains is small, tiny, a dot on an imposing horizon. Man is just a speck of dirt on the majesty of nature. But here, in the space where Vietnam sticks up into China like a sore thumb, we’re

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about to experience something else. That country up north. Lung Cu is known for its tower, a mountain-top column and flagpole overlooking the border. On its top flaps an enormous Vietnamese flag, placed as if to remind the northern hordes beyond of that upstart nation to the south. It’s on the tip of the nail, the pointed nail of that thumb, and the tower and flag loom resplendent below the imposing sky. As we climb the first set of steps — there are 270 to get to the base of the tower — Communist Party music drifts out of the speakers. It’s imposing and yet soothing, peace-breaking yet relevant. For the whole of the 1980s, Vietnam fought off the Chinese on its northern border. The Chinese managed to get no more than a kilometre into Vietnam. With an already war-hardened army and borderlands like these, it’s no surprise. At the base of the tower the question is asked again and again. “Where is China?”

No sign marks it out. I think it’s to the north, but when I look later on Google Maps, it’s to the east and west as well, no more than two kilometres either way. From where we stand, there are villages on the other side of the border that can only be reached by road from Vietnam. But at this moment we don’t know that, and climbing to the top of the tower — another 144 steps — we ask again. This time the answer comes with the wind. It soars here in blusters, hitting you in the face. Beyond the valleys below, China is everywhere you look, but it’s not here. Certainly not here. We have a different vantage point at the top of the tower to the one we see on the road. And we could stand here and soak in the effect of man and nature for hours. But we have to move on. It’s late afternoon and we have to get on to Dong Van for dark. Leaving Lung Cu and China behind, we head back south into Vietnam and through Ma Le. Yes, we confirm. The name means ‘cross-eyed ghost’.

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Banh Cuon There’s an Old Quarter in Dong Van, a French Quarter with century-old houses. And in one of them lives a woman selling possibly the best banh cuon I have ever tasted. “What do you call it?” I ask her. “Banh cuon Ha Giang?” She laughs. “It’s just banh cuon,” she says, “But you can call it banh cuon Dong Van if you wish.” The wet rice paper is folded with an egg inside it and is then served up with a bowl of pork broth with chopped spring onions and gio lua (pork sausage). It’s spicy, it’s filling, it’s wholesome. And it tastes delicious. I could eat this all morning. “Do they sell this elsewhere?” I ask Zoom. “Yes,” she says, “but this place is the best.”

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Heaven on Earth Just two kilometres out of Dong Van town you enter the district of Meo Vac. The Vietnamese press has labeled Ma Pi Leng, the pass we are about to go through, as ‘Heaven on Earth’. It’s majestic. It’s huge. It’s awe-inspiring. It’s a place that makes your jaw drop. It’s what tourists should be coming to this country to see. Instead Sapa and Halong Bay fall onto itineraries. Ma Pi Leng and the Dong Van Highlands don’t come close. In a way I’m relieved. Even with the clouds settling in the ravines, and the Nho Que River flowing 1,500m below; with the terraced paddy fields, the colour of the ethnic minorities and all the superlatives and emotion you can throw at this collection of mountainous valleys, it’s not heaven on earth. But it’s

certainly the most beautiful place I’ve seen in Vietnam, and I’ve travelled a lot in this country. It’s unearthly. It takes us almost three hours to drive the 13km between Dong Van and Meo Vac. Not because of the roads — they are well-paved here. I love it here, I could spend all day here. But it’s not heaven. At least not my heaven. That’s something else, a different figure of a different imagination. Greek columns, bearded gods and angels clad in white togas; floating stairs, early morning sunshine peaking through patches of cloud. I’m very classical in that way. A tourist stop has been erected at the best-known viewpoint and down below a castle-like tower has been built out over a Grand Canyon-like ravine — the distance

to the river at its base is 1,500m. We stop here for half an hour, looking, breathing, taking photos. I think of Sapa. After Ma Pi Leng, the jewel of the Northern Highlands is ordinary. Very ordinary. Every day on this trip has been different, every morning, every afternoon, every hour, every minute. But I realise while we drive away towards our stop for the night, that this was the pinnacle, the climax. As we go to the next town, Bao Lam, we descend stunning valleys, pass through small towns, follow river valleys, see a woman weaving hemp, meet kids on bridges and walk through paddy fields. But now it’s all ordinary. A bit like Sapa, I think again. A bit like Sapa. Except that it’s Ha Giang.

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The Cattle Market The next morning in Bao Lam my head is pounding — pounding with the constant changes in altitude, pounding with a bad night’s sleep the night before. The town is full of ethnic minorities walking the main street — Tay, Hmong, San Chi, Red Dao — we are told it’s market day. Again. But when we look for the market, we can’t find it. Eventually we stumble on a makeshift space next to the river. I climb down. It’s a cattle market. “How much?” I ask one guy who’s just handed someone a wad of crisp VND500,000 notes. “Six million,” he replies. “Six million for this calf.” Later I discover it’s cheap. In Hanoi the price

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would be double. The market is packed, mainly with ethnic minorities — only occasionally do I hear people speaking Vietnamese. Men are parading their wares, trying to sell cows and calves while the women look on, commenting, gossiping and making the decisions. A fight breaks out, man against woman. A crowd gathers — but the argument is not in Vietnamese and by the time I get over the woman is in tears. No-one is coming to her aid. I’m confused, overwhelmed with a feeling of not belonging I rarely feel in other situations in Vietnam. I decide to leave.

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The Valley of the Nung “This is stunning,” I say to Zoom as we look over the paddy fields, stilt houses and mountains. “But after yesterday morning, it’s an anticlimax.” She agrees with me. She also agrees with me that this area, Ban Bo, has got potential. Huge potential. “No tourists come here,” she says. “They never pass through this place. But it’s only good from April to September, when the rice is high. That’s when it’s beautiful.” We’ve been driving further and further into the valleys of the Nung, another of the ethnic minorities living in the area. Once again, the scenery is different to everywhere else we’ve been. Rolling hills,

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paddy fields, stilt houses with tiled roofs — some even have glass windows. Black pigs, chickens and goats run freely here, and unlike the Hmong, the Nung look Vietnamese. They no longer dress in the traditional clothing of their people. But the roads are terrible here, broken up by the dual harshness of time and weather, and the going is slow. “Maybe we should have taken a different route,” Zoom says, as she turns over my comment. “No,” I say. “The buildup was perfect. We hit the pass on day three. The problem, I think, is getting back to Ha Giang. There’s no easy way.”

Here Comes the Sun For almost 70km the road has been following a river, and around it are untouched swathes of jungle and houses perched on the side of soaring, 1,000-metrehigh mountains. After the anticlimax, the magic is returning. Even in the Central Highlands, on the road from Dalat to Dak Lak, you don’t see valleys so pure, beautiful and untouched. Perhaps in Quang Binh and Quang Tri, where the Ho Chi Minh Trail runs through the mountains. But nowhere else. And here there’s another difference. Every few kilometres there are iron and wood-crafted suspension bridges, decadeold structures crossing the river to the other side, connecting otherwise disconnected

villages with the highway leading to Ha Giang City. “Look,” says Hoa from the motorbike in front of me. “The sky! It’s turning blue.” We all stop, excited. It’s late afternoon and we’re 20km from the city. Finally — after four days, right at the end of the trip the sun is coming out. The azure of the sky shines back at us from the other side of the river. Finally I can see what this part of the world looks like with a background of blue rather than white. As we get closer to Ha Giang, the sun appears through the clouds and in the final collection of valleys before we hit the city, it gives us a sunset. Filling the mountains with

soft light, it creates a different mystique. We stop, look over and catch our final breath of beauty before heading back to civilisation.

Information To get to Ha Giang you need to can catch an overnight bus from My Dinh Bus Station in Hanoi. The journey takes nine hours. Motorbikes can be hired in Ha Giang City. Alternatively, hire a car in Hanoi. For more information on Zoom’s tours, go to zoomzoomtravelvn.com or pop into her office at 23 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

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insider

DANCE

NATIONAL

The B-Boy World Cup 92 | Word September 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Hip hop dancing has taken Vietnam by storm â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and, with the biggest breakdancing event on the planet qualifying two Vietnamese teams for the finals, it might be time for Vietnam to take the world by storm. Owen Salisbury reports from Ho Chi Minh City on the Vietnamese qualifying round

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odies surge across the stage, all grins and swagger, as the crowd cheers each new gravity-mocking move. B-boy crews S.I.N.E. (Saying Is Not Enough) and BigToe have battled other teams many times today. Still they dance with vigour and passion. Behind the dancers and the pulsing lights, the judges sit stone-faced, observing the final match like all the rest. DJ Red Ant works his turntables like a mad scientist, calling the dancers to battle as MCs Buck and Quan Rapsoul draw the crowd into a frenzy. When the battle finishes and the winners are announced, the auditorium erupts. It doesn’t matter who the fans came to root for. They got what they wanted — another exhilarating show. Welcome to Battle of the Year 2014, the biggest breakdancing event in the country — and the world. For hip-hop dancers, BOTY is like the World Cup. At the beginning of August, 21 10-member crews from over the length of the country headed to Saigon to dance for one of two Vietnamese spots in the Southeast Asian finals. The finals held on Aug. 29 in Danang, pitted the Vietnamese winners against eight to 10 other teams from across Southeast Asia. The Aug. 9 battle was held at Ho Chi Minh City’s Tan Binh Gymnasium. Cheered on by over 1,000 people, the competition was photographed and filmed by national and international media outlets like Xone FM, Japanese b-boy magazines, HTV-9 and many others. Besides being a dazzling display of Vietnamese hip-hop culture, there was plenty to see and do during the roughly eight-hour long qualifying event. The judges, all skilled, internationally-known dancers themselves, showcased their skills. Rapper Wowy blasted the stage before the final battle. Organising company Syncnamart put together a worthy show. This is their second year running BOTY, and they seek “to affirm that hip-hop and breakdance is not just a platform for b-boys, but also a sport and healthy playground for Vietnamese youth to express themselves to the world,” according to business development manager Huynh An. But the day was about b-boy crews, fans, and their love of dance. Every team danced with athleticism, pride and skill. Some fans watched from their seats with a connoisseur’s focus. Others danced and cheered from the floor.

A Fated Battle The final qualifying battle matched powerhouse Hanoi crews S.I.N.E. and BigToe, who have something of a history. S.I.N.E won the Southese Asian Championship in 2013 and a trip to Germany for the international finals. BigToe won in 2010, making it to that year’s finals in France. S.I.N.E. was formed in 2011 by 16 breakaway BigToe members, led by 26-yearold Pham Khanh Linh. Linh started dancing 10 years ago and has competed in every Vietnamese BOTY since it debuted in 2005.

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His crew now has 35 members, while BigToe has around 60 in four teams. The oldest crew in the country, they are a perennial BOTY contender. And on this day, defending champions S.I.N.E. prevailed over runner-up BigToe, but both teams will meet again in Danang. “It was very difficult for us to beat them,” said Linh, “because of their creativity and skill.” And emotionally? “They are new members, not my bros and sisters anymore. We beat them, same as we beat all the crews.” BigToe spokeswoman Mai Thin Vi had a similar take. “They’re just a crew from the same city... can’t say they’re not hard ‘cuz they were BigToe members.” BigToe actually fielded two teams, with secondary crew Assassins not advancing to the final six. Still, their shared past is important, as both teams have devoted followings which are steadily expanding as hip-hop culture in Vietnam grows each year.

A Brief History From its origin in early 1970s New York, hip-hop culture has become a force in nearly

every country on the planet. Adapting everywhere to meet the needs of the young, it often causes friction with older generations. Arriving in Vietnam over 20 years ago, its first manifestation was with the 1992 formation of BigToe by students returning from abroad. The first and most influential of the Vietnamese b-boy crews, their style became the national template, and these godfathers of the hip-hop scene have had a tremendous influence on every b-boy in Vietnam. Original member Nguyen Viet Thanh, 40, remains, heading the BigToe Limited Company. He still breaks, apparently holding his own in in-house battles. Despite its apolitical nature and lack of cultural associations — different from many other countries — Vietnamese hip-hop and breakdancing culture still needs time to gain acceptance. BigToe, and hip-hop as a community, received that social recognition in 2007, with an officially sponsored show at the Friendship Palace in Hanoi, followed by a national tour. In 2010, the group even received an official Certificate of Merit, and went on tour to France and Germany.

It’s fitting that BigToe once again has a chance to dance in the finals, as BOTY is the oldest breakdancing competition, formed in Germany in 1990. It’s also fitting that their progeny S.I.N.E. have their chance, as BOTY itself has spanned generations, going from 400 to 14,000 attendees at the finals. BOTY is a multi-month, multi-continent affair, which kicked off in Senegal in April of this year, and will finish in Germany on Oct. 18. The central company recommends countries for local and regional competitions and local affiliates present the events. National winners then go onto regional finals. From there the world’s best meet in Germany. Having finished first and second in the national championshops, for BigToe and S.I.N.E, Danang looms large. “For me, the toughest teams must be BigToe crew and the Thailand b-boys,” said Linh. When asked which crews would present difficulties in Danang, Vi laughed. “We don’t know, we also don’t care.” For the other teams, it was time to go home. A lucky few went to Danang to cheer on their countrymen. But all want a rematch in 2015.

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insider

TRENDWATCH

NATIONAL

g n i g g o l B Video nam in Viet

same time. e th t a r la u p po e lonely and b n o s r d in a boring e p te r a ta n s a ll c a t e it n , r te am only on the in ggers in Vietn t lo a b th o e id Kyle Phanroy a id d s v n l is a fu It is s s rr e a c c H u David f many s e. Photos by L In the case o a o H y b s ord apartment. W

ccording to YouTube statistics, over six million hours of videos are watched each month — or in other words, almost an hour for every person on earth. Video blogging — v-logging — started in the US around the turn of the century, and the number of content creators putting their products online, hoping for a breakout hit, has increased exponentially since then. In Vietnam, the trend came much later and it wasn’t until 2011 that it became a sensation among teenagers and twentysomethings here. The number of v-loggers

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has also increased, and a few have racked up subscribers in the millions. Some of the most popular are JVevermind, An Nguy, Pho Dac Biet, Huyme and the late Toan Shinoda — most of whom are in their early 20s themselves, and gain nice financial benefits from all the attention. In the beginning, most of the popular blogs were about students’ lives abroad or how to learn English well — because these first v-loggers were Vietnamese students in the US. Today’s v-logs have gotten more varied in format and content, and have better production quality.

“I love watching JV’s [short for JVevermind] videos. I watch his videos again and again,” says Nguyen Huu Dung, a senior college student from Hanoi. He likes the sound effects that JV puts into his videos and the often contentious subjects he addresses. 16-year-old Ho Thi Thu Ha, from Gia Lam District in Hanoi, says her classmates wait every week for a new video from these v-loggers. As soon as a new video is released, it’s downloaded and brought to class, so her 50 classmates can watch it together on a big screen.

Ho Chi Minh City based V-Blogger, JVevermind

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Pham Cong Thanh, otherwise known as Huyme Productions

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Reality Bites In July, the unexpected death of v-logger Toan Shinoda, due to health issues, came as a shock to his fans. Condolences and expressions of mourning flooded Facebook for weeks. Since he’d started v-logging in 2011, the 27-year-old had become one of the most popular YouTube personalities in Vietnam for his humour and wordplay. His series of fake news segments, in which he imitated the scandals of teenagers or world political figures such as President Obama or leader Kim Jong-Il of North Korea, used to crack people up. They now bring a bittersweetness. The intimacy of v-logging is greater than that generated through most other digital broadcasts, which is why Toan’s death hit many so hard. Someone they had looked at as a friend, who they had seen so many sides of, had gone, and there was no real way to reach closure.

the same time, to show my opinion,” says the 22-year-old v-logger. In his nearly 60 v-logs, his biggest hit was Student Life: Being Bullied, which scored 3.25 million hits. A unique personality was also key to An Nguy’s rise in Vietnam’s virtual world. With a toneless and somewhat husky voice, always wearing a pair of black, thick-framed glasses, she has rated 300,000 subscribers. Her v-logs have titles like When a Girl Hits on a Guy and Pursuing One’s Dream, and show her opinions through a straight-to-the point speaking style. Her old high school friend Le Minh Thu says her online persona is the same as that of the girl she went to school with. “She was always like that,” Thu says, “a bit strange and difficult to get along with. But that just makes her videos more full of personality and interest.”

Professional V-loggers

Cam Fright

Tran Duc Viet — JVevermind in YouTubespeak — was a third-year student in multimedia with a focus on web design at Cameron University in Oklahoma, USA, when he first posted a v-log online in November 2011. In the beginning his equipment was just one handheld camera on top of a stack of books; the background was a wall with half of the painting nailed to it out of frame. When putting his first video online — in which he debates another Vietnamese student’s skill in English — Viet never thought that he would become one of the most famous names in Vietnamese v-logging, with nearly 1.5 million subscribers. This led to his post-graduation choice to come back to Vietnam to continue doing v-logs. “The core here is that you have to be very individualistic and show off your personality,” says Viet, whose signature is a sarcastic voice and humourous word choices. Although never trained in acting, he often pretends to be the people that he talks about in his v-logs. One time it was his parents going to meet his teacher at school; another time it was a well-known ‘hot girl’ who gets into lots of scandals. “I want to use humour even in some serious issues, to entertain people but at

Not all v-loggers are born to feel confortable in front of cameras. It’s a challenge for some to get over their fears and act normally in front of a recording device. Pham Cong Thanh, known by the YouTube handle Huyme Productions, said he was quite a shy guy who used to think that he wasn’t good looking. “You don’t know how people receive your videos. There are times when you post it and start receiving negative comments or even worse. They share your videos with someone else and talk s___ about it, that’s when you just wanted to hide your videos immediately,” said the 21-year-old blogger, also a student at a fine art university in Ohio, USA. As their target audience is mostly teenagers and twenty-somethings — the type who often get snarky, judgemental and even hateful — it isn’t easy for any v-logger to get over their first steps of getting online. “At first, I felt terrible. But now I don’t usually care so much [about negative comments]. I think I’ve heard the nastiest comments already,” Thanh says and laughs. “But blogging gives me more than I expect,” he continues. “So I’m still happy doing it.”

Staying Relevant As popular v-loggers with a huge amount of subscribers, all those mentioned are considered real influences among teenagers and college students. They are invited to do advertising or guest at events for companies whose target audience is young people. “It [v-logging] brings me many projects that I would never have thought of,” says Thanh. “Like playing in a movie, even music videos. I’m now completely financially independent from my parents.” This is one of the things that led JV to make a similar choice. “I felt like if I came back to Vietnam at the right time,” he says. “There were a lot more opportunities than in the US to look for a job. So I took those chances when I still could. Perhaps after some time, I’ll go back to America. But for now, I’m happy here.” But it’s not always easy to earn money. Last year, JV was criticised by some viewers for integrating “too much” product placement into his v-logs. As the culture develops, many v-loggers — JV included — feel they should have better control of their clients’ demands. When possible, this means keeping advertising separate from their personal channels. Maintaining popularity in this foreverchanging virtual world is also a constant concern. Different approaches — not just the traditional sitting and talking in front of the camera in a bedroom — have become common. V-logger He Always Smiles made his fame by always appearing with a cartoon box with a smiley face inside while blogging. Recently, a new v-logging group called Doodle Dude has started using sketches to tell stories, rather than show their faces on camera. Thanh Huyme aims to create comic books based on v-logs, while JV plans to use short comedy sketches. New equipment — better cameras, separate microphones, tripods, lights and even filming assistants — is also employed to create videos with an edge. It’s all towards one goal — not to be a flash in the pan. “In the end,” Thanh says, “I want to become like some foreign YouTubers who can maintain their v-logs for a long time. I don’t want to let my channel soar up and then die quickly.”

“The number of v-loggers has… increased, and a few have racked up subscribers in the millions. Some of the most popular are JVevermind, An Nguy, Pho Dac Biet, Huyme and the late Toan Shinoda — most of whom are in their early 20s themselves, and gain nice financial benefits from all the attention” wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 99

Food & drink

EAT & DRINK

NATIONAL

A Wise Draft With draft beer suddenly becoming the drink of choice in Vietnam’s big cities, Nick Ross organises a pub crawl with some of the key players in the local beer industry. Here’s what happened. Photos by Glen Riley

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s the second beer tower arrives at the table, the comments and wisecracks start to flow. “The thing that surprises me is that no one drives a snow plough,” quips one person. We’ve been talking about traffic and driving on the highways at night. “Oh, don’t get a photo of me drinking that,” says another, worried about being seen with beer in his hand that’s not his own brand. “Wow, this is a departure!” A departure from what? We’ve already forgotten. The music is pumping and the female DJ is sporting the pre-requisite baseball cap. She’s in dancing mode, grooving to her selection of Top 40 dance tracks on a raised podium.

We have our own personal beer pourer — her name is Thao. She works the tower and keeps it refilled. In the urinals there is see-through glass. The view is not going to get you producing your iPhone for that quick Facebook shot unlike at another beer club, Bomb Beer, where the urinals back onto the DJ booth. But it’s a novelty turned into a prerequisite that seems to have followed the rise of the beer club. That and beer towers and high wooden plank tables and loud music and draft beer. Most particularly, draft beer.

A Drop in the Ocean Our present choice of watering hole is Hops Beer Garden, a Saigon-based beer club built on the foundations of what was once

Windows Café, the first big, brash coffee drinking haunt in central Ho Chi Minh City. That was a decade ago. Now thanks to a craze started by the legendary Vuvuzela, it’s the beer clubs that are taking over. With higher average spends — VND250,000 to VND300,000 a head as compared to the coffee drinker average of VND50,000 — the days of large, elaborately decorated glitzy cafes are over. We’re here with some of the movers in the beer industry. It’s supposed to be a pub crawl, but two hours in and we’re still at destination number one. Our reason? Draft, or draught, beer. How you spell it is still up for debate. But what isn’t up for grabs is its rise in popularity among the local populace. It’s still a

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top-end tipple — a 330ml glass costs between VND30,000 and VND45,000. When bia hoi costs as little as VND10,000 for two litres, you realise there’s still a fair amount of market penetration to go. The majority of Vietnam is quite simply priced out of the market. After the launch of Tiger Draft in 1995, for years there were only three or four draft options available in Vietnam. Yet at Hops alone, there are seven. And a number of draft beers — including the recently launched Heineken Draft — are not even catered for here. That’s despite beer occupying 87 percent of packaged alcohol consumption in Vietnam. “I like it,” says Sapporo’s Cong Thanh. “The competition is good. Tonight is a bit unfair as everyone [in Hops] is drinking Sapporo. I want a draft beer market where people are drinking everything.” The reason for the present change is partly the rise of the beer clubs. But it’s also Cong Thanh’s brand, Sapporo. Over the last three years, big investment has seen the Japanese beer, both in draft and bottled form, break the market stranglehold of the likes of Tiger, Heineken, Carlsberg and San Miguel. It’s now

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a popular brand. And in Hops it’s the beer that’s got all the signage. And yet as Gary Bett (Red Rock and Gau Den) and Tom Duncan (SABMiller) explain, the draft beer market in Vietnam is tiny. "Until last year, the draft beer market in Ho Chi Minh City was mainly for expats and tourists,” says Tom. “It was very small and stable.” As a result, it didn’t get the investment it’s seen elsewhere in the world. Vietnamese just weren’t drinking it. In 2013 only 66 million litres of draft (keg) beer was sold. That is a mere drop in the beer-drinking ocean when you consider that bia hoi hit the 3 billion mark. Thanks to the rapid rise of the beer clubs, that’s all starting to change. “As a value increase, the change in draft beer consumption is significantly higher than the pure volume,” continues Tom. “But as a percentage of the total market, it’s still tiny but now growing quickly.” Says Gary: “For the big guys, setting up draft beer requires a lot of investment. They have to spend a lot of money on everything, the fonts, the branding, the cooling systems. They have to get it perfect. It’s easy for them to lose a lot of money on it.”

Yet for someone like Belfast-born Michael Comerton of Platinum, it’s far easier to enter the market. Selling a hoppy, American-style craft beer brewed in Vietnam that was originally created for Aldi in Australia, being small has its benefits. He doesn’t have to go through the costly branding and bureaucratic exercise of the multi-nationals. Being small means he is lean and with his draft beer in 20 high-selling venues, it’s possible for him to make a profit.

Table Service We’ve gone through Platinum, Sapporo and Red Rock. Now we’re on Gau Den, a tasty black beer brewed by Gary in Vietnam. It’s the only dark beer of its type on tap. “I love beer clubs,” says someone. “They’re great for attracting a more diverse group of customers and women feel more comfortable here.” “Yeah,” says someone else. “It’s better for them than going to the nightclubs. There they end up drinking too much spirits and getting in trouble.” We all nod in agreement. The way the service staff at nightclubs keep your glasses

constantly filled can be challenging. It’s costly, too. “So are we actually going to move anywhere?” says Michael. “I think we've redefined pub crawl in Vietnam. You sit in one place and the beer crawls around you.” Discussions start about where we should go and there’s some disagreement. But it looks like Bomb Beer. Named after a slang term developed in the north for bia hoi, it’s their official opening tonight. Suddenly I realise what’s strange about the whole experience. Table service. I go to the front of the bar to search out the beer taps. It’s all there, font after shiny metal font lined up in a bar space. But there are no customers there, only service staff. Go to a pub or a bar overseas, and the culture is based around bar service. Rock up, check out the fonts to see what beers are available, and place your order directly at the bar — the fonts and the selection of beers adds to the experience. It also means the beer is freshly poured from the tap. Yet in Vietnam, with beer towers you run the risk of the beer going flat. As Gary says, “Someone could fill

a beer tower full of bottled beer, and you’d never know.” I’ve actually seen that done before in a well-known bar in Saigon. They filled up early and served punters directly from the beer towers. By the time the beer was drunk, it was worse than flat. It was warm, too. “So, why do they do it?” I ask. “Why the beer towers and the flat beer?” “Because it’s social,” everyone seems to say at the same time. “It’s about people and we’re having fun.” We all laugh. Draft beer in Vietnam has its own dynamic. How that dynamic will develop is something to watch. But it’s certainly taken off. And more beers are set to come into the market, too. I look at Tom, SABMiller’s country manager. From all the talk it seems like he’s going to bring Peroni in on draft. Together with Staropramen, it’s my draft lager of choice when I go back to the UK. But he’s being coy. “When?” I ask, in anticipation. But my question is quickly avoided as we move onto the next round of draft beer.

Draft Beers in Vietnam The beers below are presently available on draft in Vietnam:

N ATIONWIDE

Sapporo San Miguel Red Rock Gau Den Carlsberg Tiger Bitburger Krombacher

H ANOI O NLY Budvar

H O C HI M INH C ITY O NLY Heineken Platinum Saigon Draft

For a list of microbrewery draft beers available in this country, go to the blog beervn.com

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Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

Salt n’ Lime

Will Hanoi finally get Mexican food right? Our anonymous writer arrives on the scene to check what’s behind the sombrero. Photos by David Harris

anoi’s newest Mexican eatery may be easy to miss, but you’ll know you’re in the right place when you see the colourful sombrero and Mexican flag welcoming customers to this hole-in-the-wall establishment. Salt n’ Lime in Tay Ho opened its doors in early August — and I’m sure I wasn’t the only one thrilled at the idea of good Mexican food in Hanoi. The sign over the door promises “quick Mexican food” and quick it is. Within minutes of ordering, our drinks arrive. The drinks list is limited to house wine, local beer, Corona and three kinds of tequila. My glass of very drinkable Chilean red (VND75,000) comes served in a small beaker — “Just for a bit of fun,” says the waitress. Indeed, it seems that this casual restaurant could be perfectly summarised as “fun”. The large front doors are pushed open to welcome the evening air, wooden tables are painted in bright reds and blues, and cheerful music mixes with the whir of the overhead fan. For those looking for alfresco dining there are a few tables set in the shadow of a large tree on the sidewalk. Within minutes of ordering, fragrant steam begins to rise from

within the kitchen. The whole restaurant is really just one room — the kitchen divided from the seating area by a large, diner-like kitchen window. “Order up for table 10,” yells the chef, sliding a foil-wrapped package across the bench. Behind the jars of limes and bottles of tequila he expertly wraps burritos and tends to pans of sizzling vegetables.

It’s the Simple Things Like any good Mexican restaurant, the meal starts with an order of guacamole (VND45,000) and homemade tortilla chips (VND60,000). Unfortunately, Vietnamese avocados don’t lend themselves to really good guac — unlike their Mexican counterparts, the local variety tend to be slightly watery with less flavour. Thus, despite the chef’s best efforts, the taste was somewhat bitter. But the homemade tortilla chips came to the rescue. These were not like any tortilla chips I had eaten before. They were better. Managing to perfectly balance thick and crispy with light and fluffy, they were a treat in their own right, perfectly seasoned with, well, salt n’ lime. I was still licking the seasoning from my fingers when the main meals were served. With only two

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options on the menu — burritos and tacos — ordering turned out to be a straightforward affair, with my dining companion and I deciding to go for one of each. Preferring to skip the meat, we went for vegetarian on both and were not disappointed. The tacos (VND60,000 for two) were originally a little on the thin side; capsicum and onion served on a bed of corn tortillas, with a wedge of lime. However, side orders of extra salsa and sour cream (VND15,000 each) spiced things up and complemented the flavour of the sautéed vegetables. Then there was the burrito (VND140,000). There is not much to say about this that isn’t expressed in one simple word — perfection. I usually avoid these bland, ricestuffed parcels, but Salt n’ Lime’s vegetarian option has revolutionised my thinking. Perfectly balancing the veggies and black bean mix with cheese, salsa, herbs and just enough rice, I can happily say that Hanoi is now home to an awesome burrito. The next day, I asked my dining companion what he thought of our dinner. “That’s a pretty easy sumup,” he said, “burrito = awesome. What else do I need to say?” Salt n’ Lime is located at 6 Tu Hoa (6/1 Au Co), Tay Ho, Hanoi

THE VERDICT

12.5 FOOD

9.5 SERVICE

DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Mien Tron

The perfect dish for the Hanoi Autumn, mien tron or mixed glass noodles is more complex than you may think. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by David Harris

here’s a problem with the English word ‘noodles’ or ‘vermicelli’. It just doesn’t describe the number of noodle dishes out there, and in Vietnam there are a lot. Bun, mien, banh da, banh pho, banh canh, banh hoi, mi Quang, mi… The list goes on. One of the more popular types of noodles is mien, often known as glass noodles in English. Made from cassava — mien is also sometimes called cassava vermicelli — as opposed to rice or wheat, after bun this form of dried noodle is probably the second most popular in Hanoi. Mien often comes fried with crabmeat and vegetables, or as a replacement for pho noodles in a broth known as mien ga. However, my recommendation for the cooler weather of the Hanoi Autumn is mixed cassava vermicelli or mien tron.

Just Off the Main Drag Find your way to Ly Quoc Su in the Old Quarter and you will come across a small mien tron eatery near the junction with Chan Cam, Mien Tron Hanh. Like many other street food joints in Hanoi, this place is quite small, only fitting in one row of tables. As this eatery was originally part of an alley, at its end you will see stairs leading to the upstairs apartments of local Hanoians. Mien Tron Hanh also provides a nice little escape from the bustling activity

of Ly Quoc Su, one of the busiest streets in the Old Quarter. Yet it still gives you a people-watching observation point onto the road beyond. Order a mien tron, wait for two minutes and a bowl of this all-in-one dish with shining fried onions and roasted peanuts on top will be placed in front of you. Put on a bit of vinegar, a drop of kumquat juice, some chilli and mix everything up — the blended taste may come as a bit of a surprise. Mixed with crab eggs, fried tofu, fried onion, roasted peanut, soy sauce, fish sauce, vegetables and herbs, together with fish patty, soft-stirred beef and pork roll, the sweetness and richness of the taste comes from the crab egg, which comes from crabs living in the waters of paddy fields in northern Vietnam. Besides the mien, it is the essential ingredient of this dish. “You have to select a good type of mien,” says Hanh, the eatery’s owner. “If it is not made from cassava, it gets too starchy and spoils the dish.” She adds: “I’ve run this shop ever since my mother passed away, and the last 20 years we have been carefully picking the fish from Ha Long to make the patty. I make the patty myself and fry it early every morning. “People say that mien tron is easy to make. They’re wrong. There are up to 11 ingredients in this dish. Each kind of sauce

must be used to a specific quantity and all the vegetables and meat must be wellcooked. To get the rich and sweet taste, you have to prepare the crab right after you’ve bought it from the market. To get the appealing smell, your onions must be fried daily in advance. The beef must be soft and tender. We have to prepare all the ingredients so that they’re ready-to-eat. Then the customer mixes them together.”

Language Barriers According to Hanh she’s had a number of interesting experiences with foreign diners. The most common problem she encounters is communication. “Many a time, foreigners come to my eatery,” she says. “They find it hard to say the name of things they like as we have so many ingredients on the plate.” The day before I spoke to Hanh a foreign man came in. He tried to explain that he couldn’t eat all of the vegetables, but struggled to make himself understood. “They have trouble [expressing themselves], but they still find the dish delicious. It makes their experience with my mien tron unforgettable.” The eatery is located at 7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi and is open from around 9am until 8.30pm. A serving of mien tron ranges from VND25,000 to VND40,000 depending on whether you order meat, fish patty, pork roll, beef or everything

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fashion

FUTURA

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Clothing

Romyda

Keth Photos

Francis

Xavier

Check romydaketh.net and at GAYA Modeling (1

Nguyen

Van

Accessories

Trang by

Q1,

Urban

Ariele

Gold

HCMC) Chick

instagram.com/urbanchickvn

Blindingly white modernism dominates the soon-to-be-former headquarters of that epicentre of Saigon chic, Gaya. In the Saigon of today, this outpost of 1970s eclecticism, with its concrete detailing shaped in the form of a fountain pen nib, stands as a beacon of the city that once was.

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Dress:

VND5,590,000

Earrings: (same

VND230,000 first

page)

satierF ssenisub a saw eh elbanu .sdrocer ypareht xe ot yrt

Earrings:

VND130,000

Bracelet:

VND200,000

Lena

dress:

VND3,870,000

nogiaS eht ni dnA .nac ti -bin nep siht ,yadot fo

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tsoptuo

dehsillebme

a ot tpada ot skees ti ekam ot ,dlrow gnignahc sa ni txetnoc sti fo esu sa yaw a eurt dna tcerid

Earrings: Ambition

dress:

VND200,000 VND3,999,000

sretrauqdaeh remrof-eb-ot-noos eht ,cihc nogiaS fo ertnecipe taht fo gniht taerg eht sâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;taht tuB .ayaG tpada ot skees ti â&#x20AC;&#x201D; msinredoM tuoba

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Earrings:

VND180,000

Bracelet:

VND250,000

Liz

VND3,665,000

dress:

inredoM oos eht rauqdaeh rtnecipe aG ,cihc aerg eht sinredoM ot tpada

oos eht setanwimod msinredoM etihw ylgn tnecipe taht fo sretrauqdaeh remrof-eb taerg eht sâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;taht tuB .ayaG ,cihc nogiaS

Necklace:

VND300,000

Earrings:

VND130,000

Daria

VND2,838,000

dress:

Earrings:

VND100,000

Pigalle dress:

VND3,548,000

Bucarest jacket: VND8,321,000

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travel TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

Teaching English in Sudan After a few years spent in the English-teaching game in Vietnam, Danny Armstrong decided to take his talents to Sudan — where he found a hard-scrabble people and a land he would grow to love.

n April 2012, after five years teaching English in Vietnam, the opportunity to work in Khartoum — the capital of the northeast African country Sudan — presented itself. I accepted immediately, and then the fear began. Sudan… where is it? Near Egypt, God help me… Darfur, genocide, George Clooney keeps talking about the place, Jihadists running around in funny clothes

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with scraggy beards looking to behead infidels like me. Even Osama Bin Laden lived there in the early 1990s. I boarded the flight there on Apr. 5, my 33rd birthday. The only positive thing I can say about this journey was that it was paid for by my employer in Khartoum. After two 16-hour layovers — now entering the realm of mental illness — I started getting my first glimpses of the

Sudanese, a people I would come to grow and love and respect with all my heart. As the time drew nearer to boarding the Istanbul to Khartoum leg of the trip, two things struck me about my fellow passengers. First, there were absolutely huge physically imposing men onboard, and second, they all seemed to know each other. Without exception, every person

Left: Sudan Bajarawiya (Jordan Sitkin) Right: Sudan Old Dongola (Retlaw Snellac) Main: Sudan Camels (Retlaw Snellac)

greeted, shook hands, offered God’s peace or warmly embraced every other person boarding that flight. This aspect of Sudanese culture was something I came to cherish, though I couldn’t recognise it then. It was 3am Khartoum time when I finally landed and cleared customs and saw my name being held by the promised driver. Being driven through Khartoum for the first time at 3am in a deranged mental state is raw on the nerves. In this state, my taxi slowed to turn the dirt red road corner where I was to live for the first two weeks, and a pack of stray dogs came leaping and yelping at the taxi, fearless. I wound my window up just in time. Visibly shaken, I turned to the driver and robotically stated, “Dogs.” “Yes,” he said. “And tomorrow, people.” The look of horror on my face must have

been enough to make him decide to let me off the hook, and he burst into a widesmiled laugh at my expense. I entered my room, lay down, and cried.

A Hard Century Sudan is suffering. There is no way to escape this harsh reality. The country, which was once the geographically largest in Africa, was cut in half when South Sudan gained independence in 2011 after years of civil war — which in simplified terms, was a battle between the ethnically Arab Muslim powerbase in Khartoum and the Christian and Animist Africans of the south. The country split, which the majority of Sudanese I know mourn as a dark day in history. South Sudan has since degenerated into ethnic violence between the majority

Dinka group and the minority Nuer. When South Sudan seceded the financial ramifications for Khartoum were severe. The major oil fields are in the south, yet ironically the pipelines only run north towards Port Sudan and the Red Sea. What this really means is this hit the Sudanese people hard in every way imaginable. It is impossible to write about Sudan and not discuss its President, Omar alBashir. He came to power in 1989 and has remained in control ever since. He immediately implemented Sharia Law and to this day, Sudan’s government remains a quasi-religious military dictatorship. Khartoum is in all but name a military compound masquerading as a city, due to the fact the regime is currently involved in three separate conflicts.

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In Darfur, there is again ethnic conflict between Arab and African — the primary difference between the previous conflict being this time the Darfuris are Muslims who just happen to be African. There are also separate conflicts in the Nuba Mountains and in Kordofan. There is no question that genocide occurred and is occurring in Darfur, and that the world at large remains for the most part ambivalent. To add to the already massive list of problems in a country ravaged by conflict and corruption, Sudan is labouring under a UN-imposed embargo. Sadly, the very people it is meant to punish suffer nothing. Average Sudanese citizens are the ones who suffer the main effects. Sudan has no access to Visa or Mastercard cashpoints inside the country, a harsh lesson I would come to learn when I woke up broke, jetlagged, hungry and completely disoriented. I went looking for food on a Friday, the start of the Islamic weekend, and the city was completely deserted. Without another soul around, I walked around in 48-degree heat looking to withdraw money in cashpoints that didn’t exist for a sandwich I couldn’t buy. I went back to my room to begin plotting my escape when the phone rang.

Learning the Ropes It was my manager calling, and thus began my two-and-a-half year teaching career in Khartoum. Learning how to deal with Sudanese students didn’t take me long. The first new thing I learnt about was the different concept of time. A 3pm class may start at 4pm, or it may never start at all. People will filter in and out, talking on phones, throughout the entire duration of the class. The first half-hour of the class is spent on traditional greetings. Males extend their right hand onto their left shoulder — they did the same for me. The women shake hands with the men and give each other a kind of high five, depending on their level of religious devotion. No matter if this class had seen each other the previous day, this routine is repeated by all Sudanese at all times. More amazingly, it happens in a genuine manner. The second thing I learnt is the Sudanese love to talk — as one student pointed out, “It’s all we have.” Once I had established trust in the class, and was fairly sure who my learners were, my students began to talk about topics they were not free to discuss outside. This was perhaps one of my biggest joys, allowing the students to express in a second language what they are forbidden to in their mother tongue: topics ranging from politics to sex to marriage.

A Questionable Learning Environment Khartoum is not easy on the eye. It is by far the ugliest and dirtiest city I have ever seen. The concept of waste disposal is

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Top: Khartoum St Matthew's Cathedral (David Stanley) Bottom: Khartoum Mosque (Jordan Sitkin)

ignored by the authorities, as is the idea of maintaining buildings and upgrading health facilities. The government is terminally in a state of conflict with its people. Sometimes it takes action against perceived threats; at other times, it cracks down on the local population’s protests. If you have the audacity to publicly rally against something as apolitical as the price of oil — which I witnessed in my first Sudanese year — you might be shot by the police,

in the street. Student friends of mine were killed in this manner. There is also the desert heat, from a Sub-Saharan oven that transcends hot. During the holy month of Ramadan, my students, friends and colleagues would fast in these conditions, not a drop of water or a bite to eat from sunup until sundown. Out of respect, many of my foreign colleagues would fast as well. I did too, to the extent that it was possible, so as not to cause offense. But every now

Top: Sudan The Mahdi's Tomb (Retlaw Snellac) Bottom left: Khartoum Children (David Stanley) Bottom right: Khartoum Sufi Dervish (Mark Fischer)

“The first half-hour of the class is spent on traditional greetings. Males extend their right hand onto their left shoulder — they did the same for me. The women shake hands with the men and give each other a kind of high five… This routine is repeated by all Sudanese at all times… [and] it happens in a genuine manner” and then a student would say, “Teacher, go drink some water.” You will lose weight in Sudan, there is no alcohol, it’s dirty and hot like no place on earth, the regime is one of the most oppressive on the planet and you will have no running water in your home for months at a time. So why go? In my time in Sudan, I ate a camel, I broke a fast during Ramadan — believe me, no drink ever tasted so sweet — I learned how to converse in Arabic, I even

managed to get hit by a bus and spend the night in a Khartoum hospital with a fractured leg. But the real reason to go is summed up in a quote about the Sudanese, “If you put 100 of the nicest people in a room, 99 of them will be Sudanese.” And I can testify that this is true. A friendlier group of people, living the hardest lives imaginable, surely does not exist anywhere else in the world. Shukran ya Sudan, Ma Salaam!

Getting There Qatar Airways and Turkish Airlines fly to Sudan via Doha and Istanbul respectively. A return trip from Vietnam will cost from US$1,255 and up. Arranging visas takes between four to six weeks. Tourists will need to get sponsorship either from a friend or relative, a travel agency or a hotel. For more information go to sudan.net.

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travel

TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

Give Vientiane a Chance Julie Vola explores the Laotian capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s overlooked charms, and finds them to be many

itting on a bed on a rickety night train, I look through the window at the last twilight strip of landscape I can see before night falls. I wonder what to expect from this trip. My editor wants me to write about the capital of Laos, but my travel companions just want to hop on a bus out as soon as possible. It takes some convincing for them to agree to spend the night, and give Vientiane a chance. The city doesn’t have a great reputation. In any discussion of travelling in Laos, most will advise you to go directly to Luang Prabang for the culture or Vang Vieng for the party — but I am up for the challenge of finding what the city has to offer. We arrive early the next morning and walk through the streets perpendicular to the Mekong. We feel the charm of the

city waking up. After a bit we find a cheap guesthouse and a comfortable restaurant to make plans.

Excursions I want to go to the Buddha Park, 25km outside the city. A tuk-tuk is a bit too expensive for just two people, so we rent a motorbike for the afternoon. The way to the park is almost straight, and quite an adventure once you are out of the city limits. Half the road isn’t paved, but it’s fun to drive on the dirt rocky road. For my bum, however... The park is an amazing collection of Hindu and Buddhist sculptures. The ornate statues seem to be centuries old, but they were actually built in the late 1950s by Luang Pu (‘Venerable Grandfather’) Bunleua Sulilat,

“Most will advise you to go directly to Luang Prabang for the culture or Vang Vieng for the party — but I am up for the challenge of finding what [Vientiane] has to offer”

“There is a strange monument, the Patuxai, a victory gate supposed to be a copy of Paris’s Arc de Triomphe. But, with the Laotian touch of mythological statues and decorum, it’s quite different from the French original” a priest-shaman who integrated Hinduism and Buddhism. This mix makes for a weird experience. I regret being so clear-minded that day, as the park has an esoteric, dreamlike feel that could benefit from an opener state of mind. There is a giant head-like sculpture right at the entrance — you enter by the mouth and climb for the spectacular view over the park. It represents Hell, Earth and Heaven. Mind your step and your head, because it doesn’t feel like the safest climb. The sculptures are made out of concrete, and with the Laotian weather they have a patina of time. There are monsters, animals, demons, humans and a giant reclining Buddha. I am like a

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kid, taking photos and jumping from one sculpture to the next. On the way back I notice how much more courteous driving in Laos is compared to Vietnam. I find myself actually following all the road rules and would not think of taking a one-way street the wrong way. It’s refreshing to see cars and motorbikes stopping and giving way at the intersections.

Back to the City In the late afternoon there is a great market on the riverside, and I am happy to see it’s not just the same products present in other touristy cities. The sky gets cloudy and the temperature drops a bit, which makes

it the perfect weather for a nice evening walk. The river itself is actually accessible, you can see in some places people leaving messages made out of bricks on the banks, the equivalent of carving a tree or putting a love lock on the Pont des Arts in Paris. It puts a smile on my face. While walking, we encounter an aerobics class on one of the main squares along the river. It’s a large class, with at least three different teachers and around a hundred people doing the same movements. I am starving, and we are about to settle for some cute Laotian restaurant nearby when my friend notices some tacky lights. It’s not a bar or a party as he hoped but a BBQ street, 10

times better in my opinion. There are maybe around 30 different places to choose from and they all seem to have the same prices. Seafood, skewers of all kinds of meat, mushrooms, vegetables. It’s delicious — and eating great barbecue by the river in the sunset is already worth the stay in Vientiane. Thunder and very heavy rain are the only reasons why we cut our dinner short.

The Morning After When I get up the sky is clouded, which helps keep the temperature cool but limits me with my Holga camera. I rent a bicycle for 10,000 Kip (around VND25,000). Cycling around is relaxing and easy, nothing is very far and I get a good view of the city. The guys I am with had just visited Myanmar and were ‘templed out’ — but I am not and am more than happy to visit some beautiful and old temples. There is a strange monument, the Patuxai, a victory gate supposed to be a copy of Paris’s Arc

de Triomphe. But, with the Laotian touch of mythological statues and decorum, it’s quite different from the French original. Here you can climb up the steps to have a great view over the city. The next thing on my list is the COPE Centre. COPE is an NGO that helps victims of unexploded ordinances (UXO) by providing care and support, largely by way of orthotic and prosthetic devices. The free exhibition is well presented and informative. I get stuck, easily overwhelmed, looking at the hanging display of prosthetic legs and cluster bombs. I forget to take photos and I linger on. When I finally leave I am greeted with heavy rain. I meet up with the guys, and we have a coffee with a freshly baked French baguette. As a French myself I will vouch for Vientiane’s bakeries. They are just like home. I regret having to leave so soon, this city is relaxing and charming — definitively worth at least a few days after the madness of Vang Vieng or the postcard-like Luang Prabang.

Getting There If you’re not going to fly — the oneway fare from Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City to Vietnam is around US$200 (VND4.2 million) — then try coming from Bangkok by train. It’s easy. The overnight train journey to Nong Khai on the border takes 11 to 12 hours. After going through customs, you catch a minibus to travel the last 13km to Vientiane. The price of the final leg is included in the train ticket. Alternatively, you can travel via 24-hour bus journey on a sleeper from Hanoi, for about VND550,000. Buses leave nightly at 7pm from the central bus station. There are also daily buses running to Vientiane from Danang, Hue, Ha Tinh and Vinh. Check seat61.com for train details and trip reports.

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travel

TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

Airport Stories

(Tokyo Haneda’s CIQ Info Plaza) Set off the main corridor in Tokyo’s Haneda Airport, the CIQ Info Plaza puts a nicer face on the harsh realities of baggage inspection. Ed Weinberg passes his layover with the cute little customs dog who’s always frowning

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et on a corner near the security check and on the way to the Haneda Airport gate area toilets, the CIQ Info Plaza is a decent place to kill five minutes. With a friendly yet watchful cartoon dog mascot, displays of confiscated items, and an interactive clickscreen explaining the rationale behind their prohibitions, Japan’s put more effort than usual into putting a nice face on customs. The first thing that catches my eye is the display on intellectual property — with haphazardly displayed consumer goods piled on top of each other, it stands in sharp contrast to the engaging shop displays elsewhere. On closer inspection, I see they’re well-made fakes: Gucci glasses, Levitra 20mg tablets, a North Face bag with matching tags, a few of those fitted New Era baseball caps with the shiny sticker that used to be fashionable to leave on. At the bottom, the stern-looking customs dog holds up a hand. The next display, on items prohibited for other reasons, is a bit more exotic. Painted ostrich eggs sit beside crocodile jerky, and ‘Dermatologist Tested’ caviar skin masks warn beauty enthusiasts, “Although caviar is a food item, it is regulated due to being the eggs of sturgeon.”

On the clip art-ornamented info boards above, the cartoon dog is starting to get angry. I watch the area for a few minutes. Children on their way to the washroom stop by the bright interactive display, touching it until they end up on one of the scrolling picture screens of specific seizures. Once they clear out, I check the lists. There are wads of cash and pieces of ivory. There are bags of cocaine lying next to busted-open coconuts. Next to the nonobvious contraband, there are commonsense explanations, like that explaining the prohibition on cattle jerky from the US and Canada. It’s been regulated since 2003, when mad cow disease broke out in North America’s cattle population. I leave after a few minutes to get some udon before my connecting flight. But I’ve learned something — and even if it’s not strictly useful knowledge I do appreciate the gesture. From just a few minutes spent in a random corner of a stopover airport, I’ve gotten the sense that Japan’s customs department is out to help me, and wants me to understand — even if it does take a little ankle biting by an overzealous mascot.

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travel

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AIRLINES

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AIR ASIA

DALAT / AROUND HANOI / HANOI - INTERNATIONAL / HANOI – MID-RANGE / HANOI – BUDGET / HCMC - INTERNATIONAL / HCMC - DELUXE / HCMC - MID-RANGE / HCMC - BUDGET / HOI AN & DANANG / HUE & LANG CO / NHA TRANG / PHAN THIET & MUI NE / PHONG NHA / PHU QUOC / SAPA / VUNG TAU & HO TRAM / TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI / TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE

$$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 bhayacruises.com Experience breathtaking tours of the serene Halong Bay, aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three– night trips with a wide range of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.

CUC PHUONG

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006 cucphuongtourism.com

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$$ Tel: (04) 3935 1888 emeraude-cruises.com Reproductions, of 19th– century paddle steamers, trawl around Halong Bay in colonial style. A classic experience, complete with, overnight accommodations in impeccable cabins suites.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 02183 825662 etoile-des-mers.com

LA VIE VU LINH

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743 lavievulinh.com

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla.com Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031) 388 0888 pearlriverhotel.vn

MAI CHAU LODGE

$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: (0218) 386 8959 maichaulodge.com

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108 novotelhalong.com.vn

TAM COC GARDEN RESORT Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249 2118 contact@tamcocgarden. com tamcocgarden.com Surrounded by rice fields and spectacular karsts, Tam Coc Garden is a haven of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury. Spacious rooms with rustic and chic décor, a pool with breathtaking views, a beautiful garden, and panoramic views over the fields and mountains. The perfect place to relax.

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HANOI - INTERNATIONAL

plimentary Wi-Fi.

CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL

HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI

$$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel. com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and com-

20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396 hanoi.hgi.com With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller.

HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500 hanoi.hilton.com Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fullyequipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental. com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi.com From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville.com

The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi. com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HOTEL

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool

www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/ vn

CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines. com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerair.com

VIETJETAIR www.vietjetair.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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Want to add more information to your listing? Get in touch and let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including four suites.

HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC - INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

DUXTON HOTEL

$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.

limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

PARK HYATT

$$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

REX HOTEL

$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777 hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and

53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

RIVERSIDE HOTEL

$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417 riversidehotelsg.com This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON

a live music venue on the same floor.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - DELUXE CONTINENTAL

$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and

$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5517 majesticsaigon.com.vn

NORFOLK HOTEL

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE

$$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels.com Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

EQUATORIAL

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS

$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2185 rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now five-star property, boasts designer fashion and a shopping arcade.

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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travel city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel.com

EMM HOTEL 157 Pasteur, Q3 A sleek, contemporary three-star hotel that mixes vintage appeal and modern chic thanks to a subdued palette of white and grey around two ‘pop’ colours: azalea pink and green hot pepper. Part of the Thien Minh Group that includes Victoria Hotels and Buffalo Tours.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel.com.vn

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel.com.vn

HCMC - BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL

$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.

HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An www.anbangbeachretreat. com

CUA DAI

$ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 354 5105 domainedetamhai.com

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 391 4555 life-resorts.com

MERCURE DANANG

$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang.com

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang.com Located on the white sands of Bac My An beach close to both Danang and Hoi An, the welcoming and modern Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for a dynamic escape. Perfect for a family holiday or a romantic beach getaway.

THE NAM HAI

$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive

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swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre– programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT AND SPA Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510) 392 7040 victoriahotels.asia

HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 banyantree.com/en/ lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

LA RESIDENCE

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel.com

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/ destination 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384

junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222 sixsenses.com/resorts/ ninh-van-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton.com/nhatrang

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 382 0999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

$$ Tel: (058) 384 0501 whaleislandresort.com

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 374 3777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN RESORT

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322 blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440 miamuine.com

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222 princessannam.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR

$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY

$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay.com

PEPPER HOUSE

$ Tel: 01678 731560 pepperhouse-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY

$$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135 phong-nha-cave.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or

double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT

$$ Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5999 phongnhalakehouse.com

SAIGON - PHONG NHA

$$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016 sgphongnhahotel@yahoo. com.vn

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: (077) 399 5895 centarahotelsresorts.com

MANGO BAY

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL

$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales) topasecolodge.com With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows

travel with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

cling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.

VICTORIA SAPA

$$$ Tel: 0203 871522 victoriahotels.asia

VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cy-

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao

THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include a 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI

corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXOTISSIMO 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150 www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more wellworn destinations.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and

Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/ vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214

www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE BEENINASIA.COM www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate

travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

EXOTISSIMO 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotissimo.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING SERVICE 12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh, District 1, HCMC Call center: 1900 5454 40 www.en.chudu24.com info.en@chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best prices and reliable service. If you are looking for great local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com. It has been the #1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

www.cocobeach.net

paradise@cocobeach.net

INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com

Coco Beach Resort

58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, W. Ham Tien Phan Thiet, Vietnam +84-(0)62-3847111 / 2 / 3

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travel

TRAVEL PROMOS

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH

FLY VIETNAM flyvietnam.com

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel: 0904 193308 intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well. The Banyan Tree in Lang Co, just north of Danang

TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure. com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead the way.

Dalat Highland Retreat @ Ana Mandara Villas Dalat anamandara-resort.com As if the deal Ana Mandara’s been running all summer wasn’t enough, they’re now taking an extra 10 percent off their Highland Retreat Package. Deduct that from the already generous VND2.69 million per night, and add daily breakfast, yoga classes, and a setmenu dinner or a daily 60-minute spa treatment for two. There’s a minimum two-night stay, but we doubt you’d want it any other way.

A Fifth Star for Danang

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

@ Novotel Danang Premier Han River novotel-danang-premier.com It’s been a little over a year since Novotel Danang started towering it over the scene, and the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism has noticed — awarding the hotel with a five-star rating on Jul. 30. Located at the top of the Bach Dang Promenade, the advantages of 36 floors become obvious in the rooftop sky bar and accompanying pool. And, from now through Dec. 31, the Five-Star Celebration Package will

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showcase all that and more — like daily breakfast and a choice of one other meal. Check it out from VND2.338,740 per night — or invite a friend for VND532,500++ extra.

Locals Go To Lang Co @ Banyan Tree, Angsana banyantree.com, angsana.com This National Day and the whole month after, Vietnam’s first integrated resort is serving up the savings, in the finest seaside trappings the central coast has to offer. Stay a minimum of three nights in Banyan Tree’s lagoon pool villas at a reduced rate starting at VND6.3 million++ per night, and get a one-time Do It Yourself BBQ to really feel at home. Or try Angsana’s three-night deal — starting at VND3 million++ per night, with a complimentary set dinner. These specials are good now through mid-December for Vietnamese residents.

Honeymoon in Nha Trang @ Sunrise Nha Trang sunrisenhatrang.com.vn If your new mate likes colonial

elegance by the seaside, you can do worse than Sunrise Nha Trang’s Honeymoon Indulgence Package — a three-day, two-night getaway that includes daily breakfast, a candlelight dinner, a 60-minute couple’s massage, sparkling wine and chocolate in your room, and a special honeymoon cake. Valid through Dec. 20, the package weighs in at VND6.9 million++.

Year-End Gatherings @ InterContinental Asiana Saigon icasianasaigon.com Where else should you take your team than the World Travel Awards’ Leading Conference Hotel 2013, Leading Business Hotel 2013 and Leading Hotel 2013 for the whole country? Until Feb. 28, the InterCon is rewarding you for making the right choice with incentives like welcome cocktails and VIP rooms, conference backdrops and hotel rooms with Saigon as backdrop. Contact trannguyenthuy.tram@ihg.com to figure out how you can add even more to one of Saigon’s premiere MICE destinations.

Hanoi

RECALLING HANOI // COFFEE CUP // FOOD PROMOS // THE ALCHEMIST // THE THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF PHOTO BY DAVID HARRIS

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hanoi

old quarter

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

BARS & CLUBS CHEEKY QUARTER

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01679 647254 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

DRAGONFLY

DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 4926 2177 11am to late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

FATCAT BAR

DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211 linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.

FUNKY BUDDHA

ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3292 7614 8pm to late

HAIR OF THE DOG

LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0947 893232 10am to late

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1943 3pm to late

IRISH WOLFHOUND

IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821 irishwolfhoundpub.com 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA BOMBA LATINA

LATIN BAR 46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0917 245155

LE PUB

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL RESTOBAR 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 2104 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104

MOJITO BAR

CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR 19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/mojito.bar. lounge Decked out in wooden pan-

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elling and bare brick, this tastefully designed watering whole in the Old Quarter is known for its prize-winning bartender and excellent cocktails

verted, colonial-era villa, the concept of the third Joma is the same as at its two other cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter, and a great selection of sandwiches, bagels, salads, cakes, ice-cream and tea.

smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

THE CART

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087 Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu.

SPY BAR

HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802

TEMPLE BAR

NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6675 7908

TET BAR

LATE-NIGHT BAR 2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3050

THE SPOT

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1874 8am to midnight

CAFES CAFE PHO CO

COFFEE SHOP WITH A VIEW Back of 11 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8153

JOMA

INTERNATIONAL CAFE 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem joma.biz Housed in a two-storey con-

COFFEE/BAKERY 222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don’t let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOO SKATESHOP

SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147 Booskateshop.com

CONTRABAND

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month

with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2419 ateliervietnam.com The downtown store of this well-known chic boutique. Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. Offers both ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

THREE TREES

JEWELLERY 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

CRAFTS & FURNITURE MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and

hanoi Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645 metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO 12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327 cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3993 1399 10am to 10.30pm A slither of a joint serving up the same fare that the lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9916 greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm

GREEN TANGERINE

FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639 10am to midnight

LITTLE INDIA

INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1859 littleindianhn@gmail.com

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 9052 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-

floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.

LITTLE HANOI

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 8333 7.30am to 11pm

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

MILLENIUM

PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

NAMASTE HANOI

PAN-INDIAN 46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery.

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and min-

iature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

etarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

THE LOFT STOP CAFÉ PROVECHO

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 223966 The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1979 southgatehanoi.com

THE KAFE

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE 18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245 thekafe.vn Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

THE MOOSE AND ROO

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT 42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever changing imagery on the walls.

TAMARIND

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat. Features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has Asian favourites like veg-

FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 8am to 11pm

SPICE

CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580

TANDOOR

PAN-INDIAN 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 5359 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAFÉ

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253

FITNESS & YOGA STUDIO FIVE

YOGA & WELLNESS 5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515 http://studio5.vn facebook.com/yogastudio5 6am to 8pm An international and professional Yoga Studio providing more than 20 different yoga styles such as: Hatha Yoga, Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga, Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with infrared heater), Power Yoga and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes per day. Bring harmony back into your life — Studio Five is the perfect place to reconnect your mind with your body.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR BACCHUS CORNER

WINE RETAILER 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www. fivimart.com.vn

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

INTIMEX 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 129

RECALLING HANOI PART FIVE

andscape is entangled with history and people’s lives. No matter how young we are or what social position we have, we all have stories to tell. The book I am working on, Recalling Hanoi, is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry weaved out of portraits, people’s stories

and the urban landscape that hosts them. I ask people living in the city to tell me about a place in Hanoi that holds memories. It can be about anything — a personal story intertwined with history; a great event; everyday little stories that our lives are made of. These stories, along with the photographs of the storyteller and the

location provide depth. Through this collection I am attempting to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait of this city through its collective memory. The hope is that the audience will connect to other people’s lives and also to their own memories in an attempt to understand this beautiful city.

closest friends. Brent and I first became friends because we were both American, both liked punk music, and both wanted to start a band. The band didn’t happen but we started a DJ duo and called ourselves Hanoi Panic. Luan said we could DJ on Saturday nights at Noodle and he would pay us in beer and food. It was really great, the music was good, and the atmosphere we created was different from anywhere else in the city. People were always requesting songs. Brent and

I really did not like requests because most of the time the songs sucked. One night a Vietnamese guy requested a horrible metal ballad. We decided to play it and the atmosphere dropped immediately, it went from high to low in a second. Luan came up to us and said, “No more requests. You guys do what you do best. No. More. Requests.” Noodle is gone now — it has been replaced by a restaurant — but I can still see the ghosts of my crazy friends laughing and dancing on the bar.

Mon Ovatharsan No Requests Location: Half Man Half Noodle, 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem When I first moved to Hanoi, I felt like a fish out of water. I’d left a big group of friends behind in Philly and started a brand-new life in Hanoi. I didn’t have much of a social life until I found the Half Man Half Noodle bar in the Old Quarter. When I first started going, it was a dark bar with lots of expats and a few Vietnamese people. The manager Luan spoke English and embraced me like an old friend. It was great. ‘The Noodle’ is where I met most of the craziest people in Hanoi who also happen to be my

hanoi

BY JULIE VOLA

Le Tuan Ha Haut les Mains Location: Truc Bach Lake During the war I was in the civilian forces that protected the city and I worked in a factory on Thuy Khue. On Oct. 26, 1967 it looked like it was going to be a typical day. I went to work for my 8am shift and had a two-hour lunch break during which I went home as normal. Then I heard the city alarm start telling us an air strike was underway. I headed to the block shelter. I heard an explosion and looked outside to investigate. A plane was coming down over Truc Bach Lake and the pilot’s parachute was in the air. I ran out of the shelter screaming,

“There’s a pilot!” I went to my house to get a knife in case the pilot had weapons. I dived into the lake. When I got to the pilot I grabbed his hair and put his head on a bamboo floating rack. I didn’t speak English so I screamed at him in French, “Haut les mains!’’ I put my knife against his face, he didn’t put up a fight. He was still attached to his parachute, which was very heavy, so people helped me drag him to shore. We pulled him out of the water. John McCain was very lucky to go down near a police station. No harm would come to him there. If he had fallen into the city he

could have been badly beaten. The police took him away and handed him to the National Defence Force. I went home, finished lunch and returned to work. The day after it happened it was all over the newspapers and journalists wanted to interview me. When John McCain ran for President of the United States the story resurfaced and I was interviewed again. I don’t mind. I like sharing the story. This is the fifth excerpt from Julie Vola’s work, Recalling Hanoi. The work is presently being serialised in Word. For more information email juls.vola@gmail.com

wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 131

hanoi

COFFEE CUP COSA NOSTRA

Photos by Julie Vola

t’s been a big year for cafes in Hanoi, with high-end operators turning out in force to tantalise the taste buds of Vietnam’s style-conscious professionals. This month, we followed the well-heeled crowd to the epicenter of this upscale cafe revolution — Hoan Kiem District. With the opening of Starbucks last month, a Highlands located nearby and respected hangout Tadioto next door, Cosa Nostra has carved a stylish niche among a fierce batch of competitors. Location has been a key ingredient behind this success. The venue oozes prestige with high-hitting neighbours like the American Ambassador, The Press Club and the Sofitel Metropole. The location also boasts picturesque views of Co Tan Flower Garden, which acts

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as an effective sound buffer from the chaotic traffic of the Opera House roundabout. Inside, patrons relax in trendy chesterfield couches complemented by designer lampshades and dark timber furniture. Polished stainless steel air ducts and abstract wooden sculptures also hang from 12-foot high ceilings, while the building’s pastel yellow foundations add a rustic element to the design. Caffeine lovers can expect a decent selection of coffees, including a passable cappuccino (VND49,000) and caphe sua da (VND35,000). While the latte (VND49,000) was a bit on the milky side, the catchy beats and trendy ambiance were more than enough to make me stay. Somewhat bewilderingly, takeaway coffee is not offered here, which may divert the lunchtime coffee runs to the nearby franchises. This may also be a con for customers (like myself) who are put off by the occasional clouds of cigarette smoke wafting across the room.

Bottles and Good Eats The café is as much an after-work cocktail and shisha venue as it is a coffee-hangout

— a clever strategy that has been employed by many trend-savvy café owners in Vietnam. A centralised bar is stocked with top-shelf spirits used to make a handsome selection of cocktails. The cost of hard liquor might make the frugal-minded a little hot under the collar, but the selection is immense. Those fancying a snifter of scotch may even be tempted by the 18-year-old Glenlivet (VND3,350,000) or even some Royal Salute at a cheeky VND4,450,000 a bottle. But if weather permits, head upstairs to the shaded terrace to enjoy some sun and sangria (VND499,000 per jug). Cosa Nostra also serves up a comprehensive selection of in-house dining options. Local fare is well represented and reasonably priced, with offerings ranging from the southern noodle speciality bun thit nuong (VND49,000) to banh mi op la (baguette with pate) for VND40,000. Bar snacks range from humble cold cuts (VND149,000) to fried chicken (VND89,000), while more substantial splurges, like spaghetti bolognese (VND105,000) and foie gras (VND390,000), are also available. — David Mann Cosa Nostra is at 24 Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

hanoi HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)

hoan kiem

THEATRE GROUP hitshanoi.com

L’ESPACE

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT

PARIS DELI

Bà i

Triệu

Hàng

Hu ế

Phan

Bà

Chu Trin h

Sứ

Q uá n Sứ

Đinh Ti ên H o à n g

Hưng

Phùng

Hà n g G à

Hàng Điếu

Hưng Phùng

Quán Nguy ễn Du

Trần Hưn gĐ ạo

Lê Văn H u ư

h Hàn T

uyên

MODEL CLUB

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung 8pm to late

PHUC TAN

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem

RELAX BAR

HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem

ROOFTOP

SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901 8am to midnight

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

ZONE 17

CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger cafécum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

Tiền

ư nh D Khá Trần

FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 Hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am La Fée Verte (or the ‘Green Fairy’) is a metaphor for the decadence of another age, an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The signature bar of the Hotel de l’Opéra Hanoi where, just as in Paris at the dawn of the 20th century, the making of an evening drink a lavish event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge atmosphere, great music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine to bring a genuine sense of occasion to after-dark in the capital.

Hà

CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/bar84hanoi Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

Tổ

+84 BAR

g Hồn

WILD WEST THEME BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822

hái Lý T

Tràn g

i Khả

Thi

a ng Qu

17 COWBOYS

n Trầ

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

Lý Thái Tổ

Ngu yễn Du

g ươn

t uậ

Nguyễn Tri Phư ơng

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HOAN KIEM DISTRICT

BAMBOO BAR 17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem The first bar in what will eventually (hopefully) be a

zone dedicated to bars and restaurants. A pool table, a square bar in the middle of the room and a barbecue until the early hours — there’s quite an atmosphere in this pleasant watering hole.

CAFES CIAO CAFÉ

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

TWITTER BEANS COFFEE 45B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760 twitterbeanscoffee.com

CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE

ARTS CINEMA 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES AMERICAN CLUB

EVENT SPACE 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace.com

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar)

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

CAFÉ LAUTREC

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contem-

porary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

STEAKHOUSE / GRILL 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

LA BADIANE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night. A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.

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hanoi SATINE

FOOD PROMOS

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414 hoteldelopera.com

WRAP & ROLL

PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH

5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR CITIMART

SUPERMARKET Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

DA LOC

WINE RETAILER 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Daloc.vn

FIVIMART

SUPERMARKET 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

HANOI GOURMET

DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet.com The long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

INTIMEX

VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226

WESTERN CANNED FOODS

GROCERY STORE 17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

The stuffed squid at Le Beaulieu in The Metropole. One of the dishes from their Mediterranean promotion

Nikko Gourmet Refinement Hotel Nikko Hanoi has a host of buffet offers for September at its various restaurants. Our picks are both available at La Brasserie and include the seafood and lobster dinner buffet with a free-flow of wine, draught beer and soft drinks for just VND700,000++ every Friday and Saturday. For a boozy lunch, try the international lunch buffet from Monday to Friday with a free-flow of draught beer and soft drinks plus a complimentary glass of wine for just VND450,000++. Hotel Nikko is at 84 Tran Nhan Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

Marriott September Feasts JW Marriott Hanoi brings a host of special offers for September in its three restaurants and two bars. Its JW Café restaurant has breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets priced at VND550,000++; VND770,000++ and VND990,000++ respectively from Monday to Friday. On Vietnamese Independence Day and every Sunday enjoy an evolving brunch from 12 noon to 10pm with lobster, pan fried foie gras and seafood plus a free-flow of beer, juice and soft drinks for VND1,100,000++. Specials are also available at their French Grill restaurant and Crystal Jade Palace dim sum and

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Cantonese-styled dining hall. The JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi

Flavours of The Mediterranean The Melia Hotel is bringing the taste of The Mediterranean to El Patio. Every Tuesday evening from 6pm to 10pm enjoy the best from the land of sun, sea and sky with a buffet that includes lobster served at the table. For VND690,000++ per adult and VND475,000++ for children under 10, the buffet includes a broad selection of dishes, free-flow house wine, draught beer and soft drinks. The Melia Hotel, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Mediterranean at The Metropole With numerous restaurants and bars, The Metropole offers a bit of everything. Angelina, for example, is on ravioli month, with a selection of the Italian filled pasta dishes going for VND320,000++. The property’s flagship restaurant, Le Beaulieu, is also pitching in with some Mediterranean flavours created by Chef Olivier Genique and his team. Served a la carte for dinner, main courses start at VND460,000++ per dish. The Sofitel Metropole Legend is

located at 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

The Semi-Buffet Available through the week for busy businessmen looking to leave the office behind for 30 minutes to an hour, or families and friends searching for a place to enjoy lunch and dinner, The Mövenpick has created a semi-buffet specially designed by chef Hiep Chu. Enjoy a wide selection of appetizers and a dessert buffet complimented with your choice of “done a-la-minute” grilled items at the Mangosteen’s open kitchen for only VND298,000++ inclusive of one local beer and one soft drink. The Movenpick is at 83 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Duck Specials at The Sofitel Ming on the first floor of the Sofitel Plaza is running a number of duck specials this month. Served up with a wide selection of sauces such as mushroom sauce, plum sauce, oyster sauce, and curry sauce, a number of a la carte options are available. Ming is also continuing its popular Dim Sum buffet from Monday to Friday at VND580,000+ per adult and VND360,000++ per child. The Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

hanoi ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES

CLASSIC ITALIAN 27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

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Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.

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ARTS WORK ROOM FOUR

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho workrmfour@gmail.com workrmfour.tumblr.com A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

BARS & CLUBS 88 LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029 88group.vn 5pm to late A wine bar with a difference, this addition to the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

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HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170 hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@ hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

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CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888 hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.

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PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

PANE E VINO

NINETEEN 11

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm

TAY HO DISTRICT

LUNO D’AUTUNNO

ceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.

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CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm

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LE BEAULIEU

MADAKE

CONTEMPORARY RESTOBAR 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665 or 0984 002181 With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar and restaurant is ideal for those seeking a fusion of Western and Eastern cuisine. Famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, the ambient Asian-style décor, weekend DJ nights and general atmosphere makes Madake a popular West Lake go-to joint.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM HOUSE OF SON TINH

LIQUOR LOUNGE 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377 sontinh.com 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho Open daily from 2pm. Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favorites. Nonsmoking, unpretentious, dog-friendly.

TAY TAP

MEET-UP SPOT 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917 4pm to late

SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

BOOK SHOPS

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KUB CAFE

BIKING CAFE so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho kub.vn Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole bringing that’s become a favorite of the motorbike clubs. Does good on-the-table bia hoi and runs biking events.

BOOKWORM TOO

NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean.com 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for the ex-

LA GRACE

ART CAFE & GALLERY 8B/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 666736 lagrace.com.vn 7.15am to 10pm Located on a peaceful street named after the famous painter, To Ngoc Van, La Grace is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: drinks, food, arts and sometimes live music. Clean, comfortable and friendly, the venue has a nice selection of juices and smoothies and a Vietnamese-cum-Japanese food menu put together using organic vegetables. Set lunches cost VND150,000, and the café also has strong WiFi as well as separate nonsmoking and smoking areas.

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hanoi

THE ALCHEMIST OUR INNER CHILD

ne of the things I love about living in a foreign country is learning more about the cultural significance of the routines of daily life, as well as the meanings of festivities and ceremonies. This month’s Moon Festival is one I have experienced many times but beyond the endless eating of moon cakes, the lantern making and lion dances, I knew little of the fact that the Mid-Autumn Festival, by which it is also known, is a celebration centred around children. Reportedly a time for parents to catch up with their children after the summer harvest, the Mid-Autumn Festival is also a time to recognize children for their innocence and purity. It is believed that only those possessing these qualities can get close to the natural and sacred world. The goal therefore is to become like children in order to acquire the attributes of the gods.

Our Inner Child I can’t help but draw upon the parallels

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of the many spiritual teachings that urge a person to connect with their inner child. We are encouraged to not only find our inner child but also to embrace it, heal it, and release it. Why is our inner child so important? From a psychological standpoint, our base emotions stem from our inner child, therefore working through any unresolved childhood issues will help us to lead a more harmonious life. From a spiritual perspective, the inner child represents who we truly are, the innocent, joyful being that came into this world. Unfortunately, in the growing up process too many of us lose touch with that source of innocence and wonderment.

The Secret To help reconnect to this vital source of joy, retry some of the things that brought you fun and laughter as a child; take the time to absorb the beauty in your surroundings; listen to your heart, break free of any restrictions that limit the

BY KAREN GAY

fullness of who you are. These are but a few suggestions on how to rediscover your inner child. Just as we find it natural to foster and nurture children’s imaginations, their enthusiasm and joy, so too should we aim to nurture these qualities as adults. “The secret of genius is to carry the spirit of childhood into maturity,” said evolution theory advocate, T.H. Huxley.

God Within This Moon Festival join the lion dances, make some lanterns, eat lots of moon cakes and embrace life with the enthusiasm and joy that is inherent within us. The Greek origin of the word, ‘enthusiasm’ means to have God within. What better way to acquire the attributes of the gods than to be full of enthusiasm. Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker. com

SAINT HONORE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ

ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection.com 8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an oldfashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CAFÉ / TAPAS BAR 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment. Eclectic? Not a chance!

CLOTHING GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a madeto-measure service are available at no extra cost.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam.com Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

COOKING CLASSES HIDDEN HANOI

COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE 68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BETTERWORLD

GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS 8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.

LA CASA

CONTEMPORARY DESIGN Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084 lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org

Community development nonprofit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS DON’S TAY HO

BICYCLE RENTALS 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CYCLING COLLECTIVE 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but also rents and fixes bicycles. To add to the eclectic, community spirit they also organise bicycle tours, run yoga sessions, hold music concerts in their upstairs cafe area and run a great menu of Spanish tapas served up, if you so wish, with gin & tonic. Quite a mix!

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 5322 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

DA PAOLO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

DALUVA

FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

DON’S TAY HO

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

HALIA HANOI

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121 thehalia.com Daily 11am to 11pm A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an extensive wine list.

HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters,

hanoi

THE THERAPIST WORKING IT OUT

This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, talks about learning how to diffuse heat and emotion in the middle of a conflict Dear Douglas, Lately, my wife of four years has become unbearably aggressive in the way that she is talking to me. We have an on-going disagreement about living in Vietnam that we can’t come to terms with. She is blaming me for a decision we both made. In any case, we have no option but to live with it for at least a year. Once she starts screaming, calling me names and saying things that are meant to hurt me, I don’t know what to do. Arguing back doesn’t work… we end up on the verge of knocking each other out. Leaving the house doesn’t work. It has only proved to make her madder. I never imagined we would be so unable to solve our problems together. Help! She is out of control. — No End in Sight No End, The readers should be informed that this letter has identified a crisis… a situation that calls for immediate attention and cannot wait for the next issue of Word to come out. No End was contacted and was able to find a therapist who facilitated the communication that helped him and his wife move out of the risk of danger, physical and emotional, that intense

138 | Word September 2014 | wordvietnam.com

emotions can create. Conflict and disagreement are a normal and predictable part of any relationship, particularly within a marriage or with a partner with whom life decisions are being made. Often we discover ourselves in these conflicts before we realise the power and intensity they have and the difficulty that comes from trying to resolve them. There is a real danger that people are hurt or that the damage done is irreparable. My advice is to consider some ground rules that provides a structure that increases the likeliness of getting to resolutions that are amicable. A lot of it has to do with knowing and managing our emotions. It is helpful to learn the difference between responding and reacting to a situation or conflict. Responding is the ability to consider how we feel and what we think, while making a choice that is consistent with our values, or the way we want to be in the world. If our emotions are intense, in order to respond we need to pause long enough to calm ourselves and to see what the factors are that are causing that intensity. Often it is more than the given situation. Unfortunately, it is not uncommon for many of us to react, which

is to allow the intensity of our emotions to determine the behaviour we choose. Often when one acts out of that intensity they find themselves regretting their actions later, when they see it from a less emotional perspective. Many couples learn that when emotions start to escalate, they are better off calling “time out” and stepping away from the conflict to regain composure so they can revisit the issues from a place of relative calm. They learn that very few solutions occur when intense anger, frustration, or fear are in play. The key is not to escape the issue, but rather to see it from the broadest perspective — that of being calm. While anger can often be justifiable, it can never be used as a license for abusive or damaging behaviour. I am hopeful and confident that No End In Sight has found an end — even if it is to agree to disagree — with the help of some facilitation. It is a role that therapy can play for couples or families in trouble. Be well, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

hanoi Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our

IL FARO

ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6327 1142 Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel, this panMediterranean restaurant owned by the same people behind Mediterraneo serves up an assortment of French, Spanish and Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed yet Italian-influenced atmosphere.

INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN 10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668 indiapalacehn@vnn.vn Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

cream, this bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da

THE PIE SHOP

TAKEAWAY PIES 2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 1507 thepieshophanoi@gmail.com Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style savoury pies and rolls. Available in three convenient sizes (mini, regular and large). Enjoy them hot as a takeaway, or frozen to keep for later.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 53 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5656 8am to 11pm

THE SUSHI CLUB

CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE 10A Quang An (ngo 27 Xuan Dieu), Tay Ho Tel: 0934 544263 thesushiclub.info Featuring a delicious combination of contemporary Japanese dishes as well as other traditional Japanese favorites, The Sushi Club combines great cuisine with charming views over West Lake. The ambience is warm and comfortable making it the perfect place for dating, business dinners, meeting friends and family gatherings. Quiet private rooms are available.

EXPAT SERVIES

KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 30 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Set inside a newly renovated house with a large courtyard, Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks.

MAID IN VIETNAM

HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3112 maidinvietnam.com Offering a licensed hire service for trained domestic and office housemaids, cooks and nannies. Courses include health checks, housekeeping, safety, basic 1st Aid, courses for external maids and household management for Vietnamese wives of foreigners.

FITNESS & YOGA

R&R TAVERN

RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6295 8215 Now on its third location, this watering hole still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course, some quality live rock music. Its upstairs area is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly shows and events, while the downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly community environment.

SAINT HONORE

BOULANGERIE / BISTRO 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore.com.vn 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and

PUNTO ITALIA

hanoinetball@gmail.com Hanoi Ois Netball Club is a mixed ability, mixed gender club for adults wanting to enjoy team sport while also improving fitness and developing skills. The club plays every Tuesday from 6pm to 7pm at UNIS. Email for more information

COFFEE MACHINES 62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510 puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.

VIETCLIMB

RED APRON

CLIMBING CENTRE 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA

J.A.F.A.

INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

HANOI OIS

ELITE FITNESS

TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

HANOI CLUB

COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub.com

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS ANNAM GOURMET

GROCERIES / DELI First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

FIVIMART

SUPERMARKET Second Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1791

KITCHEN ART

KITCHENWARE 38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart.vn Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.

L'S PLACE

GROCERY SHOP 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

WINE RETAILER 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

THE OASIS

ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and home-made foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the in-house kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

MEDICAL & DENTAL INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC

MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

ONE DENTAL CLINIC

DENTISTS 8 Quang An, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6168

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

NATURALLY VIETNAM

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam.com Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for expats and Vietnamese.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 139

hanoi

ba dinh

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL FOODSHOP 45

ên

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS BARBETTA

ARTSY BAR & CAFE 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

SUMMIT LOUNGE

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR 20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 ext. 5314 4pm to Midnight Sunday to Wednesday, 4pm to 2am Thursday to Saturday

ALTERNATIVE DANCE CLUB 18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh facebook.com/vaulthanoi The work of Mao, the enigmatic personality behind Mao’s Red Lounge and The

BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM

BOOK SHOP 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES CAFÉ GOETHE

ARTS CAFÉ 56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 7395

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 2247 0602 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this

140 | Word September 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Cửa B ắc

Bà Tr iệ u

Trần Hưn gĐ ạo

Đà n

quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh (Next to the Flag Tower) Tel: (04) 3823 3339 highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

MANZI

ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook.com/manzihanoi A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES GOETHE INSTITUT

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh

Đinh T iên H o àn g

Hàng Bài

Q u án

Sứ

Phùng

Thắ n Tôn Xã

Hoà

Coach House, this underground homage to nighttime decadence sits in the gap between The Old Quarter and West Lake, bringing in a range of DJs and nightly entertainment. A great addition to the scene.

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Khâm Thiên

Cầ u

Kh án

Trần Ph ú n T hái Học

Đức

Hào

Th àn h

Lá

Th úc

Nguyên Tri Phươ ng

Hùng

Cát Lin h

Võ Na m

Giai

L iễu

Hạ

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Diệu

Vương

Văn Cao

Giai Liễu

Bư ởi

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nh hà

G La Th ành

Chùa Láng

Ngu yễ

Lê Thái Tổ

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La T

Đội Cấ n

Sơn Tây

Đư

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Phùng

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Đà

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Đội Cấn

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Đội Cấn To àn

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THE VAULT

Phan Đình

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Quán

Hoàng Hoa Thá m

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BA DINH DISTRICT

Trần Nhân Tông

Tel: (04) 3734 2251 goethe.de/hanoi

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE

COOKING CENTRE 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

EAT

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com Open for over a decade, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the Hanoi's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, Passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a Caipirinha or five.

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 10am to midnight

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3942 4448 hoasuaschool.com

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

MATCHBOX

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 3098 11am to 11pm

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regard-

ed as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

MING PALACE

PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

THE BISTRO

FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 4782 thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

FITNESS & YOGA N SHAPE FITNESS

MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness.vn

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

MEDICAL 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice. com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

hanoi Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec.com

elsewhere

A DONG PHOTO CO

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION

RECREATION KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL

BARS & CLUBS CAMA ATK

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

CZECH MICROBREWERY 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088

VUVUZELA

MODERN BEER HALL 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung

CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm

FRENCH GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 facebook.com/frenchgrill Every day 6pm to 11pm With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3796 2647 10am to midnight

CAFES KOTO ON VAN MIEU

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

HAM HANH

ARTSY CAFE 170 Doi Can, Dong Da The physical representation of arts, film and music collective, The Onion Cellar, this cafe with multiple areas is as left field as the people who created it.

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday

SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi.vn

11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

rant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

WILD LOTUS

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restau-

ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK

ALPHA LAPTOP 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418

FUONG MAY ANH 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568

NGUYEN CAU

ICE SKATING Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936 469799 royalcity.com.vn

1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem

X-FACTORY LASER TAG

HI-TECH USA

LASER TAG 77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106 x-factory-vn.com

DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261

PICO PLAZA 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

MEDICAL & DENTAL POTS ‘N PANS

SWIMMING POOL Landmark 72 Tower, Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3772 3801 landmark72.com

128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732

FRENCH HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh.com.vn

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983 011081

VIETSAD 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771

SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896

FOUR SEASONS 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN

EAT ASAHI SUSHI

ELECTRONICS

LA VERTICALE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi.com

Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

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MEDICAL BUFF BACK-TO-SCHOOL HEALTH TIPS

BY DR. I-AN SANTOS

When preparing for the new school year, here are some health reminders to consider: Vaccination Updates Take this opportunity to review your child’s medical records and check if their vaccinations are up-to-date, especially from common infectious diseases such as influenza, measles and chicken pox. You can find vaccine recommendations for different ages from websites such as the Center for Disease Control (CDC) and the World Health Organization (WHO). If you are unsure or need more information, discuss it with your doctor.

Vision And Hearing Screenings The ability to see and hear properly helps children to learn more and perform better in school. The American Academy of Pediatrics recommends screening yearly for children aged three to six years old,

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every two years during middle childhood (ages seven to 10), then once each during early (11 to 14), middle (15 to 17) and late (18 to 21) adolescence.

Let School Know if... Inform the school if your child has an existing medical condition like asthma, allergies, diabetes or seizures. Make sure that the school staff knows the symptoms to watch out for and understand your child’s medications and treatment plan. Check that they have your correct contact details in case of emergency. Letting the school know of any food allergies or physical restrictions will ensure safe and appropriate meals and activities for your child.

Reminders for your child: — Pack your child’s own water bottle, to encourage that they keep themselves well hydrated in school. — Remind them to practise good hand hygiene, especially before meals, to prevent illnesses like colds and diarrhea. — To prevent neck and back pains, make sure backpacks have wide, well-padded straps and padded backs. They should not weigh more than 10 to 20 percent of your child’s body weight, and should always be carried using both straps. Dr. I-an Santos is a paediatrician working for Family Medical Practice in Hanoi. For more advice on any medical topics, visit Family Medical Practice at 298I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, call (04) 3843 0748 or click on vietnammedicalpractice.com. FMP’s

hanoi

business

BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS BUSINESS GROUPS

CORPORATE SERVICES

ICHAM

ENDO

Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.

79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3783 2085 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center, Ground Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 4772 0833 sbav-hanoi.org

INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS) H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435 bvisvietnam.com

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743 0360 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243 C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri New Urban, Tu Liem District, Tel: +84 4 3794 0209 kinderworld.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SIS) 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036 www,kinderworld.net/sis SIS provides international

education for students from Primary up to University Foundation Programme. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers. Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC

rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and long-term courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)

CIMIGO

Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551 unishanoi.org

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 2051 Apollo.edu.vn Established in 1994, Apollo offers high-quality and costeffective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres.

BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3728 1922 britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM 62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3927 3399 languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING

MARKET RESEARCH 142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com cimigolive.com

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO Inland Customs Deport Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882 asiantigergroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption ti family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3762 3805 ghmsglobal.com

RMIT Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 1460

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in

the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. For more information email Vietnam@ santaferelo.com.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0912 239085 atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

FRASER SUITES HANOI 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 8877 Located in the West Lake area, Fraser Suites Hanoi consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four bedrooms, which meet any lifestyle. With a calming and warm interior feel, each apartment features all the latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides peace of mind.

SEDONA SUITES No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 0888 sedonahotels.com.sg

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI 49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3934 2342 somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central location.

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BOOK BUFF FEMINIST WRITING

This month Bookworm’s Truong looks at work by feminist authors with a focus on British novelist and columnist, Caitlin Moran

couple of pro-active feminists in the Bookworm orbit have suggested we put in a plug for very popular British author Caitlin Moran who now has two books on the UK bestseller lists. Moran is a columnist for The Times, is 37, married with two daughters and she writes with a wry but biting sense of humour. Her first book How To Be a Woman is a very hard-hitting memoir and asks women: “Do you have a vagina? Do you want to be in charge of it? If you say yes to both questions, congratulations! You’re a feminist.” Moran is open about the debt she owes Germaine Greer’s The Female Eunuch in molding her feminist views, but she presents her opinions in a way that plucks feminism out of academia and plonks it delectably onto the dinner plates of every woman. She blithely writes about discovering masturbation, about being the proud owner of a big, furry muff (and is scathing about bikini waxing, asking would a sane mother really want her daughter to grow up idolizing the Kardashians and spending loads of hard earned money on depilation). She describes in graphic detail her own adventures in childbirth and her, and her husband’s, decision to abort a second child. She writes about overeating being an addiction no different to heroin. She’s totally down on porn and the sleaze factor and she tells women that pole dancing is a definite no no. She’s scathing about females who say things like “my boyfriend treats me alright so I don’t need to be a feminist”; who belong to the up to 60 percent of bird brain western women who say they don’t relate to feminist ideals. She can’t see the point of painful stilettos or thongs that disappear up smelly bum cracks. She insists

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that strident feminism needs big undies. Moran’s favourite fashion era was the 1990s when grunge was big and the pressure on women to impress and be ladylike disappeared for a while. At the time she could dress down in Doc Martens and an old shirt, and not be told she was failing as a woman. Moran’s feminist outpourings are hitting a wide mark because they are less about glass ceilings and quotas in boardrooms and more about Brazilians, botox and the many things you don’t like having your vagina called. Our orbiting feminists say it should be compulsory reading for all adolescent females. A lot of men will get absorbed, too, but most won’t want to relinquish their gender power base

Teenage Angst Moran’s latest book, How To Build a Girl, is a spirited coming of age novel about a pudgy girl who describes herself at 14 as: “fat, a solid pale fat that makes me look like a cheap, white fridge-freezer.” Dolly is a typical female adolescent. She’s a mixture of low self-esteem — due to all the media directed at her gender cohort — and of impatience to jump out of the confines of the constructs of girlish innocence that only adults find enchanting. She becomes a smoker, a drinker and a fast forward fornicator. Over and over again she falls in love with some guy who’s only after an easy piece of action. The novel is direct and to the point about girls’ tendencies to concentrate more about what boys think about them than vice versa. More about the need to please their partners in bed rather than figuring out their own pleasurable preferences — though Dolly reaches a few

sensible conclusions about the satisfaction afforded by smaller penis sizes that will rock a lot of masculine egos. Set in the 1990s when Moran was undergoing her own teenage angst and paralleling her own beginning involvement as a precocious writer in the rock music scene, she has an ability to strip away the sweetness and cuteness we belatedly put on the terrifying decade between 12 and 20 years of age. Her huge fan, author Lionel Shriver states: “she manages to evoke in readers a nostalgia for the vigour, vibrancy and sense of infinite possibility that distinguishes those teenage years, but an enormous relief that it is all over.”

Recommendations Staying with young females and their preferences, here are two recommendations from the Twitter Youth Feminist Army — a group of teenage women from around the world who espouse and support the feminist aims. Delusions of Gender by Cornelia Fine is an outstanding resume of how science can be sexist and just how deeply this gender bias goes in our society. They recommend Margaret Atwood’s 1985 dystopian novel and classic piece of feminist fiction, The Handmaid’s Tale, because they feel that it is a striking portrayal of a society, not too far removed from our own, which takes oppressive attitudes to a natural conclusion. For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original store on Chau Long, Bookworm have a second, smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in the West Lake area. Located behind the Sheraton, it can be found at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

Ho Chi Minh City BUSINESS BUFF // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS // THE EMPTY WOK // A WORLD OF GOOD // KNOW YOUR BUSINESS // FOOD PROMOS // STUDENT EYE PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY

HCMC

business

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES / EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS / RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS ACCOUNTING & AUDITING COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND PHIBIOUS DESIGN

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0220 globaleye.com

PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Tmg-group.com

ADVERTISING & MKTG BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6662 bbdoasia.com

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com

DENTSU VIETNAM AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005 Dentsu.com.vn

GREY GROUP 404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933 3493 marketeersvietnam.com

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com

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7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 3377 phibious.com An independent, creative– led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050 purpleasia.com

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Viet-

nam to Australia.

RIVER ORCHID 10th Floor HDTC Building, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 2538 riverorchid.com

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.

TBWA\VIETNAM 4th Floor, Saigon Finance Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com.vn

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7858 Bdg-vietnam.com

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 1481 Concetti.vn

GRANT THORNTON

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL 38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884

28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100 Gt.com.vn

TRACTUS ASIA LTD

INSPIRED IMAGE

XAGE CONSULTANCY

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 Inspiredimage.co.uk

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES 4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 7305 0905 prism.com.vn

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.

HCMC CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX 240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn

amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com

management and exclusive venues to make any kind of event a success.

CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com

ENDO 406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6292 2045 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

EVENT MANAGEMENT CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS Tel: 0906 761190 centerpiece-vn.com info@centerpiece-vn.com Centerpiece is an independent event planning company run by expatriates that can plan any event from private parties, to corporate events to weddings.

EVECOO Tel: 0988 297990 evecoo.vn

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD 268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event

EXPAT SERVICES

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665 colliersmn.com/vietnam

CREATION

CHUM’S HOUSE

International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553

HAPPY HOUSE

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7968 cushmanwakefield.vn

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE 12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com

JONES LANG LASALLE 26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968 joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management firm offering specialized real estate services to clients seeking increased value by owning, occupying and investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, they work and collaborate closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to their clients in Vietnam. Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, level 7, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

Savills Vietnam is a leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and other services.

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 thenest-vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE 49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661 baoviet.com.vn

IF CONSULTING SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn

IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable

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HCMC

BUSINESS BUFF INFLUENTIAL GROUPS

n many countries and industries, there are small elite groups that have almost absolute control over their specific jurisdiction. This month I decided to find some of the lesser-known groups who wield power over things people use and buy every day.

The Texas Railroad Commission This group actually has nothing to do with railroads, but is instead responsible for the regulation of the oil, gas, uranium and coal industries in one of the largest energy producing regions in the world. The three-member council set oil prices for much of the 20th century, and still have tremendous influence over energy prices and policies — not only in the US, but worldwide.

Luxottica Ever wondered why sunglasses in the store are so expensive, yet you can buy a similar make on the street for VND50,000? The reason is the Italian company Luxottica. They’ve built a near monopoly in sunglasses and other eyewear, controlling around 80 percent of brands in the market. Ray Ban, Oakley and Persol are all owned by Luxottica, but they also make glasses for luxury brands such as Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Burberry, Stella McCartney, Versace, Vogue, Miu Miu, Tory Burch, Donna Karan and many more.

Yoshida Kogyo Kabushikikaisha Quickly take off your pants and look at

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the zip. Chances are the logo is YKK. They make 90 percent of all zippers produced today. YKK controls nearly all aspects of zip manufacture, from the machines that make them to the boxes they are shipped in.

Banana Cartels The banana is the 4th most consumed agricultural product in the world after wheat, rice and corn, with over 100 billion consumed annually. Over 80 percent of the market is controlled by three groups — Chiquita, Dole and Del Monte.

Mega-Corporations Nestle, Unilever, Proctor & Gamble, Kraft, Coca-Cola, Kellogg’s, Johnson & Johnson, General Mills, Mars and PepsiCo control almost everything you eat and the majority of your shopping budget — in every area from food to personal care. As of May, Switzerland-based Nestle has a market capitalisation of US$239 billion. They are the biggest food company in the world, with more than 8,000 brands worldwide. Procter & Gamble, owned by Warren Buffet’s Berkshire Hathaway holding company, is valued at US$217 billion. They are the largest buyer of advertising in the US. P&G serve an almost unbelievable 4.8 billion people a year with their products. Netherlands-based Unilever — with a market capitalisation of US$124 billion, as of May — serves a respectable 2 billion people a year with their personal care, food and home care products.

BY SHANE DILLON

JPMorgan Chase, Bank of America, Wells Fargo and Citigroup In the last two decades, 37 American banks have merged to become four. They hold a combined US$7.8 trillion in assets, equal to about 47 percent of the total US GDP. These ‘too big to fail’ bank mergers have actually increased since the Global Financial Crisis in 2008. Of the Big Four, only Citigroup has spent the years since the crisis trimming assets — which, in the world of banking, are generally considered risks. The others have bulked up, partly due to absorbing other banks during the crisis.

The 147 companies Who Own Everything Three systems theorists at the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich took a 2007 database listing 37 million companies and investors worldwide, and analysed all 43,060 transnational corporations and shared ownerships linking them. They discovered that global corporate control has a distinct bow-tie shape, with a dominant core of 147 firms radiating out from the middle. Each of these 147 own interlocking stakes of one another, and together they control 40 percent of the wealth in the global network. A total of 737 companies control 80 percent. The top five are: 1 — Barclays PLC; 2 — Capital Group Companies Inc; 3 — FMR Corporation; 4 — AXA; 5 — State Street Corporation. Shane works in financial services and can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn

HCMC medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

the team at Tenzing has over 30 years’ experience providing insurance advice.

INTERIOR DESIGN PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND REMODELING

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 8th Floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IGLOBALASSIST Tel: 0934 874271 Iglobalassist.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn

PRUDENTIAL 25th F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1660 prudential.com.vn

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES VIETNAM Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le Loi, Q1 ten-pac.com An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies in Southeast Asia. A trusted partner for health, employee benefits and life insurance,

Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren Hawk) Thinking about upgrading a bathroom? Perhaps a new colour in the living room? Maybe even a new wood floor? Professional Painting and Remodeling can help with these and many other projects. Provide international standards of quality as well as professional and timely service at reasonable rates. Call today to schedule a free evaluation.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP 27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0907 ethicalinvestmentgroup. co.uk

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t-wm.com

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS ILA VIETNAM 146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3521 8788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L’ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1717 vietnamlaws.com

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com

FRASERS LAW COMPANY Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com

Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

DRAGON IMAGES

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO

MAYER BROWN JSM

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com

INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com

MANAGEMENT TRAINING EMBERS ASIA 80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn

xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com

NIELSEN G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc

PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com

TNS VIETNAM 58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6631 Tnsvietnam.vn With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customisation, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660 dragonimages.asia Dragon Images production studio is a professional team of photographers, stylists. shooting administrators, casting managers and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com Helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues / crisis management.

RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430

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HCMC

BODY

AND

TEMPLE

STRESS MANAGEMENT

BY PHIL KELLY

tress is the modern day killer. Stress is making you old, making you fat, impacting your productivity at work, affecting your relationships and getting in the way of you reaching your optimal health. There are different kinds of stress that impact our lives. Being aware of stress levels and proactively managing stress can make a world of difference to both your health and body composition.

Emergency Situations Stress caused by emergency situations is called acute stress, which is our ‘fight or flight’ response — a response to an immediate threat. Fighting off an attacker, being chased by a wild animal, jumping out of the way of wayward Vietnam traffic or even competing in a sport like rugby, football, mountain biking, kite surfing or weightlifting can trigger this stress. But it’s not a bad thing; acute stress is an important safety mechanism that allows you to overcome an emergency situation. Once you escape or win, the maximal physiological stress response ends and your heart rate, blood pressure and hormones go back to normal. Restorative processes kick back on and tissue repair and healing occurs.

The Body that Cried Wolf Chronic stress happens in the absence of an emergency and thereforen for longer periods. We humans have amazing brains that interpret the world in very complex ways, which enable us to continue the stress response by fixating on problems or situations that we can’t do anything about. The human psyche experiences feelings of insecurity and intimidation that cause our acute stress response to become chronic. Stress is the body’s way of responding to a challenge. By not turning off the stress response, we wallow in a corrosive bath of hormones. Let’s think of this in terms of a car’s brakes and motor. Acute stress would be when you slam on the brakes to avoid hitting something. The brake pads engage for the short time it takes to stop the vehicle. The brake pads then return to a static position away from friction and are used periodically when required, allowing the motor to perform economically. Chronic stress is like driving with the

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handbrake on — the brakes are under constant wear and the motor exposed to more strain. You will be able to continue driving, but sooner or later that friction and strain (chronic stress) is going to wear out the brakes and potentially destroy the motor. Chronic stress will eventually wear out your adrenal system, as the car’s brakes wear out the motor. Poor energy, poor ability to sleep, low sex drive, lethargy and fatigue during normal activities are a few other common symptoms. In other words, your ‘get up and go’ got up and went! Furthermore, the corrosive hormones released through chronic stress can lead to increase blood sugar (and belly fat), high blood pressure and metabolic syndrome (an increased risk of heart disease and diabetes), just to name a few. Here are 5 Body Expert tips for managing stress, to avoid adrenal fatigue and optimise heath, fitness and vitality:

Get a Lot of Omega-3s Omega-3s will elevate glutathione hormone level, and they are particularly

good at protecting the body when exposed to physical stress.

Eat Antioxidant-Rich Foods Antioxidant-rich foods provide nutrients that the body uses to produce enzymes that effectively detoxify stress hormones, providing an anti-stress boosting procedure.

Do Yoga and Meditate Yoga and meditation practice will help by providing a safe but structured time to get rid of mental stress. You will be more body conscious and able to realise when you are in a stressed state.

Massage Massage releases endorphins that calm the peripheral nervous system.

Laugh a Lot Studies show genuine laughter makes you more resistant to disease and stress in the same way high antioxidant levels do. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763, at his website — bodyexpertsystems. com — or through Star Fitness — starfitnesssaigon.com

HCMC adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b.com

competitive service suitable for many types of business.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC. Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. www.vieclambank.com info@vieclambank.com VieclamBank is a brand of G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting executive and senior level, providing Vietnamese and Japanese candidates with experience studying abroad or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and

5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220 alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 www.asiantigers-mobility. com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS 2nd Floor Coteccons Office Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 4237 crownrelo.com

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

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HCMC KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato.edu.vn

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: 0908 460267 kidsclubsaigon.com

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850 seal.com.vn

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city.

SAIGON MOVEMENT

LAC VIET TATTOO 608

SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279

SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149

VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com

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CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn

Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3830 4668 106 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7068 lacviettattoo.com

SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart.com

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08) 3742 5678 enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1111 cityview.com.vn

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO

31B Nguyen Du, Q1 saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO GROUP 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat.vn

TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI

209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat.com

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED

Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com

Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com

SERVICED APARTMENTS

Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

PIANO CLASSES

including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email Vietnam@santaferelo.com for info.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

DELIVERY BEN STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare

CHEZ GUIDO Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts

EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

EL GATO NEGRO Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos

HUNGRYPANDA.VN

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

KFC Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

LOTTERIA Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

SCOOZI Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

TACO BICH THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

WILLY WOO’S Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon.com US-style chicken and waffles

VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

HCMC

downtown

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon.com

BEER REPUBLIC

MODERN BEER HALL 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 0945 858034 facebook.com/BeerRepublic

BLANCHY’S TASH

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 Blanchystash.com

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202. bootlegsaigon.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7699

CUNHOUSE

LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 0908 033982

DRUNKEN DUCK

EXPAT / SPORTS BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 2853 Subtle lighting, a pleasant ambience, a pool table and darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel of a drinking man's pub. A place to have fun, drink beer or spirits and get in with the party mood. Known for its 15 shooter challenge.

FUSE

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.vn

GAME ON

SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon.com

Huu C g

Ng uy en

Th i

cT ha n

Th an g8

Ng .H ue

Le Lo i

District 10

n Bi e

Ca ch

Tr u

h an

Ham Nghi

District 2

Da o

EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2644 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.

District 3

Hu ng

ICE BLUE

Ha i

ie n

LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn

Kh ai

APOCALYPSE NOW

CARMEN

HARD ROCK CAFE

t Kie n Va

Tr an

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.

To n

2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)

BROMA

an g

in h

en Ti

BARS & CLUBS

Binh Thanh

in h

District 4

LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180 lahabana-saigon.com Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

LAST CALL

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon.com

LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON

FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR 9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0396 lerendezvousdesaigon.com With such a meaningful name - the meeting point - this wine bistro boasts a relaxed, friendly ambience, perfect for unwinding with an after work drink or to enjoy time with friends. Reasonably priced, has a sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive old and new world wine list.

LEVEL 23 WINE BAR

large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

PACHARAN

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LUSH

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2496 lush.vn

O’BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon.com This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare,

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6024 pacharansaigon.com Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything Spanish. Regular first-floor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

PHATTY’S

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed

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HCMC

COFFEE CUP HIPENCIL STUDIO AND CAFÉ

iPencil was one of those good ideas that started in University, thought up by a group of seniors staying up late to make claymation videos about the adventures of a pencil, a robot maid and a host of other characters — some humanesque and others not so much. (Think Gumby, creepy pace and all.) Walking into the HiPencil Studio and Café, I found a group of kids transfixed on an episode wherein pencil and his lady friend were creaming another set of characters in a game of volleyball. One kid stood up and put his tiny hand on the screen, while a girl tumbled off of the indoor swingset and started to cry. The whole place was brightly lit, and the playroom was painted like a giant box of crayons had exploded on the white walls. The menu special of the month was a hamburger and spaghetti set, and the girl working there took my order

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Photos by Francis Xavier

(black iced tea) with a scowl. She gave me VND27,000 in change (all in VND1,000 notes), and then apparently forgot that I’d ordered anything as I sat there for 10 minutes before having to walk back up and ask her about it. One sip showed she’d forgotten the khong duong part of the conversation as well.

The Serious Playroom Kids were crawling all over each other and I was starting to feel way out of place. It was then that one of the owners stood up, clapped her hands and invited everybody up to the studio on the second floor where the show is made. The studio also acts as a workshop where kids can learn to make their own stopmotion cartoons. It looked like the real deal: boxes of clay and stuffed toys, top-dong cameras for filming, and computers where the kids could edit their work down to a working episode.

I wandered away from the workshop and up through the other floors, which consisted of another editing room, a business office and an empty rooftop. Not bad for kids who just a few years ago were freaking out about their senior animation project. Now they have four seasons hosted on their website, xinchaobutchi.com, a range of toys for aspiring young cartoonists and this café. Walking back down past the workshop, it occurred to me that I hadn’t seen a group of children so quiet and focused on something in a long time. Downstairs was empty at this point, allowing the Word team a chance to really give that indoor swingset a try. Gumby was cool, but all of this is way cooler. HiPencil offers parents a chance to kick back at the café, while their kids get to play with their imagination. — Matt Bender HiPencil Studio and Café is at 150 Duong D2, Binh Thanh, Ho Chi Minh City

HCMC Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

SAIGON SAIGON

HOTEL MUSIC BAR 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

STORM P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp.vn

THE CUBE BAR

HIP RESTOBAR 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798 facebook.com/thecubesaigon A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

THE ORIENT

SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

VASCO’S

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2888 Vascosgroup.com A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.

Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827 wineembassy.com.vn A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

ZANZBAR

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375 Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting, international tapas and a laidback, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the offering at the all-new ZanZBar on the river end of Dong Khoi. Popular with a businessy, international crowd.

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet down-toearth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

VINYL BAR

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon.com A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes.

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 7285 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CREPERIE AND CAFÉ

FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117 Known for it’s fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out café will impress you with its location as much as its food.

FANNY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633 fanny.com.vn

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704 saigongivral.com

GOODY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339

GUANABANA SMOOTHIES

CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830 guanabanasmoothies.com An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and

CAFES & ICE-CREAM

VELVET

DANCE/HIP HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 Auparcsaigon.com Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.

BACH DANG

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707

BASKIN ROBBINS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR 1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131 baskinrobbins.vn

CASBAH

MIDDLE EASTERN 59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130 This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.

CENTRO

ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.

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HCMC condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.

HÄAGEN-DAZS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

MAGONN THE CAFE 109 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9672 magonn.vn Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything from drinks to bites. Coming with a crowd? The attic is a quaint little spot to fit a cozy gathering.

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495 facebook.com/m2ccafe At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe.com.vn Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

THE PRINT ROOM

verted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

DEBENHAMS

ADULT & CHILDREN’S WEAR Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7592

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

TRUNG NGUYEN

DESIGN & JEWELLERY 35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.

ZEST BISTRO & CAFÉ

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn

INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows. The mid-range menu offers over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE

LEATHER & JEWELLERY 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been con-

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CASUAL & EVENING WEAR 85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4004 Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear fused with Asian designs. The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Enjoy a cup of coffee at their café after.

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom

wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA

BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com 9am to 9pm

L’USINE

LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA

TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

MR & MRS SMITH

FACTORY OUTLET 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet sells a variety of clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam. All designs are brand new, delivered from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices.

SONG

ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4088 asiasongdesign.com

T&V TAILOR

TAILORS 39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com

VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

COOKING CLASSES SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4201 bellavitafurniture.com

BOCONCEPT

DANISH FURNITURE 68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7357 boconcept.vn

DIABOLO

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803

9am to 8pm

EM EM

SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-creations.org

NGUYEN FRERES

NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS 83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1. (08) 3824 7456 ninhkhuong.vn

SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 69 Dong Khoi, Q1

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts.org

NHA XINH

HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115 www.nhaxinh.com

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

EAT 3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631

HCMC AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Excellent delivery service.

ASHOKA

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant.com Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.

elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

BLANCHY STREET

GANESH

JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114

BROTZEIT

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink

BUN CHA HA NOI

BUN CHA 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

CENTRAL PARC BANH MI

BAHDJA 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

BARBECUE GARDEN

7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549 Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule, New York-themed sandwich shop does creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices — think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels. Excellent delivery service.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORSO

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

GOURMET’S DELIGHT

L’OLIVIER

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn

GRILLBAR

AIRCON STREETFOOD 122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901 facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes, typical of the barbecue fare you’d find on the street, and then add in three types of rice and a range of organic products. Close to Ben Thanh Market, this is com binh dan

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE 7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

BEIRUT

DRAGON NOODLE

INAHO

ELBOW ROOM

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008

BIBI@ALIBI 5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The legendary chef Bibi’s newest creation, a convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking USstyle diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

BLACK CAT

EL GAUCHO

AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.com Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

KABIN

12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA BETTOLA

HOA TUC

BASILICO

LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2188

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LE BANH MI

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon

KOH THAI

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 barbecuegarden.com

Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc

LITTLE ITALY 84 Ho Tung Mau Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4402 labettolasaigon.com Located in the heart of Saigon, La Bettola is the only restaurant in town managed by two Italian chefs and an Italian waiter. A woodfired pizza oven, a downstairs bar and a stylish, elegant setting on the second floor are part of the mix. As is the home-made mozzarella, ricotta cheese, ravioli magro, tortelli mushrooms, pappardelle and mascarpone cheese for the tiramisu, which is made fresh every day. Has a great selection of Italian wine.

LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot,

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HCMC

TOP EATS STICKY FINGERS GRILL

here is an art to eating ribs. I have a special T-shirt in my closet that I use only for this purpose and it’s basically a wearable napkin. When getting down to some serious ribs, there is no time for pointless etiquette. Ribs are comfort food, and comfort food is meant to be messy. North American barbecue cuisine has recently taken off in Saigon, with spots such as Quan Ut Ut drawing trendy crowds of meat lovers every night. But if you prefer sofas to stools and your TV to traffic, the new delivery-only Sticky Fingers Grill will bring deliciousness right to your door. Sticky Fingers prepares their ribs in the time-honored tradition one expects when donning food-specific clothes. The owner, a friendly Canadian named David, proudly explains, “We slow-grill our ribs for eight hours, then we rub them down with the sauce, then you eat them.” When I ask him why the prep work is so timeconsuming, he replies simply, “It tastes better.”

Primeval I figured a man of such few words must grill a mean rack of ribs, and I was not

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Photo by Kyle Phanroy

disappointed. Sticky Fingers’ pork ribs (VND150,000) are so tender and succulent you’d slap your grandma if she asked for a bite. It would have been an insult to pick at such ribs with a fork; instead, I clutched them in my bare hands and gnawed like a ravenous caveman. In the aftermath, with my face, palms and upper torso covered in homemade barbecue sauce, I realised through the fog of my meat coma that I had neglected the side dishes. Corn on the cob (VND30,000) is a necessary complement to any meal of barbecued meats, because it is technically a vegetable and therefore good for you. Sticky Fingers gets all its produce from local farms, and even an undiscerning foodie can taste the freshness. “Nothing canned, nothing frozen, nothing from a bottle,” David says proudly. Rubbed with a little bit of butter and a pinch of salt, the bright yellow kernels popped off the cob with a refreshing crispness. Each morsel lodged in my molars was a pleasant reminder that I’d eaten something healthy for lunch. I saved Lucy’s Infamous Potato Salad (VND30,000) for last — a recipe given by a friend back home, who promised David

grave bodily injury if he ever used it outside of Saigon. “She’d probably kill me,” he says, and not without reason. Made from scratch and seasoned to perfection, the hefty chunks of fork-smushable potato would be a top-seller in any city. Best to keep the competition overseas. As I slurped up the elusive dregs of my blueberry-raspberry smoothie (VND45,000), I felt a twinge of remorse for the menu items I didn’t get to try like the pulled pork poutine (VND95,000), a decadent French-Canadian dish topped with gravy, French fries and cheese curds, or New York City’s holiest of sandwiches, the hot pastrami (VND135,000) (Editor’s note: it’s righteous). Soon Sticky Fingers will offer even more choices — there are plans to add a selection of gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches to the menu, and David hopes to expand into a physical location in the future. Until then, he is happy to dispatch meatbearing motorbikes across Saigon, like a carnivorous Santa Claus. “I never wanted to be a millionaire,” the ribsmaster says. “I just like feeding people.” — Niko Savvas For Sticky Fingers Grill delivery, order online at stickyfingersgrill.com or call 0906 396461

and moules marinières, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.

LE JARDIN

CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

LUCCA

TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3691 A contemporary trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine with New York flair in a beautifully designed space with high ceilings. The menu features both traditional antipasti and substantial main courses.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330

jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

OSAKA RAMEN

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7

OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu backed up by a compact wine list from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PASHA

MAY RESTAURANT 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail.com 7am to late Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com

NHA HANG NGON

VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

OMG!

FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677 pasha.com.vn Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating.Authentically Turkish cuisine with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

PROPAGANDA

CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO 21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

QUAN BUI 2

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 With its leafy roof garden and chic interior, Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open kitchen.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com

A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

REFLECTIONS

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

SAIGON CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SEOUL HOUSE

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

TANDOOR

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Tandoorvietnam.com

TEMPLE CLUB

PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

THE BURGER CORNER

INTERNATIONAL 43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094

THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON 54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2079 swisshousesaigon.com Serving up authentic cuisine spanning the three linguistic regions of Switzerland, as well as dishes from Bavaria and Austria, this attractive, two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer cellar in the basement.

HCMC

THE EMPTY WOK TANDOORI CHICKEN

A food blogger and self-styled chef, in this new column, Riccha Arora shows us how to make one the tastiest Indian dishes around at home. Who needs a specially built clay oven, anyway?

f you’re in the mood for something spicy and grilled, this dish will fit the bill. You don’t need to go to an Indian restaurant to make your own version of tandoori chicken. One of the best known dishes emerging from North India, there’s something about the marinating process, the intoxicating spices and yoghurt base that makes this kebab-style fare play mouthwatering havoc with your taste buds. The meat is nice and juicy, and served up with chutney or a spicy onion salad, you can give the dish an extra kick.

Ingredients 5 chicken drumsticks

Marinade — 1 cup hung curd — curd with water drained — 3-4 teaspoons ginger garlic paste — 1 tablespoon lime or lemon juice — 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper — 1/2 teaspoon of coriander powder — 1/2 teaspoon of red chilli powder — 1/4 teaspoon cumin powder — 1/4 teaspoon of clove powder — 1-2 drops of red food colour — 2-3 teaspoons of mustard oil or any other vegetable oil — 2 egg whites — 1 tablespoon of dry fenugreek leaves Salt to taste

Preparation Wash the chicken and pat it with a cloth to dry. Cut two slits on each side of the leg, making sure the knife cuts all the way in to the bone. For the first marinade, take the lemon juice, salt, red chilli powder and ginger garlic paste and massage it over the drumstick and inside the slits. Then refrigerate for 15 to 20 minutes. Onto the second marinade. Take the hung curd, remaining ginger garlic

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paste, pepper, coriander, clove, cumin and dry fenugreek leaves and again rub it all over chicken and inside the slits. Add salt to taste. Add the oil as the top coating followed by egg whites — they will hold the marinade while baking. Refrigerate it for 30 minutes. Now preheat your oven for about 15 minutes on 250 degrees Celsius. Place the chicken on the grilling tray, and keep

the aluminum foil on the surface of the oven as the juices will drip. Bake it for 15 minutes on each side. Check the meat before you remove. Serve hot and sizzling with spicy onion salad or the chutney. Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy Kitchen. To buy many of the ingredients above go to Phuong Ha, 58 Ham Nghi, Q1 or the spice shops in Ben Thanh Market

HCMC TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas and more. Sells authentic shisha.

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

YAMANEKO

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8433 yamaneko–vn.com Funky Yamaneko — down an alley off Le Thanh Ton — offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Does a great set lunch deal.

YU CHU

TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA ANUPA YOGA 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net/yoga-anupa

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30– 32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 5999 Cfyc.com.vn

NUTRIFORT

GENERAL FITNESS 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8560 nutrifort.com Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

HEALTH CLUB & GYM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

SHERATON FITNESS

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

THE LANDMARK CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com

DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 dogmacollection.com The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

(08) 3829 4441 baotangmythuattphcm.vn

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3181 07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3166 phuongmaigallery.com

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

BACCHUS CORNER

WINE SHOP 158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3306 bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

WINE SHOP 74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 3575 daloc.vn

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4376 kimhai.vn

PHUONG HA

GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318

RED APRON

WINE SHOP 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0021

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE SHOP 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:

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HCMC

A WORLD

CSR OR SOCIAL ENTERPRISE?

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

hilanthropy has become an umbrella term for just about any type of benevolent activity. But what about corporate social responsibility (CSR) and social enterprise? Is there a difference? Welfare capitalism, corporate philanthropy, ethical investing, charity and yes, CSR, are all terms used to signify ‘doing well’ financially with ‘doing good’ socially. If the primary purpose is to bring about social, political or economic change, then some would date social enterprise (under different names) as early as 1780 in the United States. But Google searches on social enterprise still returns social media or social relations. I attended a fundraiser where the host told us they had started as a social enterprise, but now they’re a nonprofit because ‘it’s just better that way’. While there are legal issues in Vietnam, social enterprise shouldn’t be equated with ‘bad’ and nonprofit as ‘good’. (You can be a nonprofit social enterprise, by the way.) Manichean thinking is easy to slip into — businesses working towards a social cause shouldn’t be making money out of disadvantaged communities.

Exclusion, Equilibrium and Funding So then isn’t social enterprise just the rich helping the poor? No. Many NGOs and nonprofits here are scrambling to adjust to the downturn in donor funding. Government (and donor) funding is slow and comes with an agenda. Creating your own revenue stream is one more step towards sustainability. Even CSR funding must adjust in oscillating economic times. But team days, doing work in a community or supporting a charity with an annual check are examples of CSR activities. These activities are important for staff morale, but CSR still tends to be a side project, rather than having social objectives as the raison d’être of the entity. If you hire disadvantaged people, run a foundation on the side or open a business in the ‘developing world’ you are not running a social enterprise. Why? Let’s take Stanford University’s (yes, picky) definition. Social entrepreneurship is: 1) identifying a stable but inherently unjust equilibrium that causes the

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exclusion, marginalisation, or suffering of a segment of humanity that lacks the financial means or political clout to achieve any transformative benefit on its own; 2) identifying an opportunity... developing a social value proposition, and bringing to bear… direct action… thereby challenging the… hegemony; and 3) forging a new, stable equilibrium that releases trapped potential or alleviates the suffering of the targeted group, and through imitation… around the new equilibrium ensuring a better future for the targeted group and even society at large. Unjust equilibrium transformed into a new ecosystem by either scale or outright imitation. That makes microfinance Grameen Bank a social enterprise. Opening an orphanage or free clinic is

not because there’s no new equilibrium or scale created. It might be social work, social activism or even altruism (ack!), but it’s not game changing. But I prefer middle ground. Why not hybrids that merge small businesses and social purpose enterprises? Perhaps the difference between the two is the social impact they deliver. Let that be our yardstick. Many believe the world’s intractable problems will be solved through market rather than political solutions. I am one of them. Social enterprises don’t want to be big businesses — they want to be small giants. Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth. She can be contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au

HCMC VEGGY’S

a clean and pleasant environment.

GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526

VINIFERA

WINE SHOP 7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0860 viniferavn.com

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

HAIRDRESSERS

MEDICAL & DENTAL ACCADENT

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)

FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa.vn Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

MEKONG BLISS SPA 112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 0563 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm)

VENUS 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6298

JASMINE

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

SALONS & SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 aquadayspasaigon.com

FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa.com.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in

Q SPA & SALON 31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08) 3905 4609 Qspaandsalon.com An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage. Also offers hair styling and facials.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

THANH SANCTUARY Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0885

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB 22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn

THE SPA Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9007 Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800 thespavietnam.com

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 hyattpure.com

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HCMC

KNOW YOUR BUSINESS ATTRACTING TALENT IN VIETNAM’S DIGITAL ARENA

e are now living in a digital world, where job seekers are engaging with potential employers on social media sites and other digital platforms — LinkedIn, Facebook and Twitter to name a few. Social media could not be more important. According to a survey conducted by Belle Beth Cooper, content crafter for Buffer and co-founder of Exist, social media is the number one activity on the internet. Clearly, social media carries more weight than ever.

What to Expect Thanks to the growth of social media, we can expect a certain level of passivity among job seekers. Job searchers nowadays actively participate on platforms such as YouTube, Facebook and LinkedIn, thus making them increasingly visible to recruiters. The candidates no longer have to work so hard to update their resumes or push their skills to recruiters because the recruiters themselves are out searching. All they have to do is keep their profiles updated. To attract potential candidates, recruiters have had to evolve their methods of seeking out talent. It is through the collection of social data that potential employers will be able to review crucial information — in particular, behaviour — regarding potential candidates faster and more efficiently, resulting in the inevitable social consumption. Thanks to this, there is little doubt that social recruitment will remain on the rise for the foreseeable future.

Stepping into the Social World Almost 90 percent of recruiters in Vietnam say that they are currently using social media as their preferred recruitment tool. With 53.2 percent of Vietnam’s job seekers looking for jobs online, the number of recruiters checking online information as well as using online social media is growing. So what does a recruiter need to do when they’re searching for staff?

candidates or check references to their background or experience.

Company Website It’s necessary to build up your company’s website and invest in its renewal and design. Create as strong a search engine optimisation (SEO) as possible.

Twitter Twitter isn’t popular yet in Vietnam, but it’s coming. With an upwards limit of 140 characters per statement, Twitter is great for companies looking to promote specific job opportunities or communicate with potential candidates.

LinkedIn Among the top social media channels, LinkedIn leads the way in how recruiters search for information about potential

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Facebook Facebook users have been growing rapidly in Vietnam for years, so most recruitment companies have already set up Facebook pages. But the race is still on to gain as many fans or likes as possible.

YouTube Youtube can be a great tool to promote

company branding to a huge amount of viewers in a short time. All you need is to produce fun, creative and eye-catching content, and you’re away! As has happened in many other industries, social media has transformed the recruiting industry. By investing in a strong, coherent and relevant digital presence, your company will become a beacon for the kinds of candidates who will be suited for both the role and the organisation. Ninh The Dung is Team Leader of Permanent Staffing at Adecco Vietnam. Adecco is a Fortune Global 500 company and the global leader in Human Resources services, check out adecco.com.vn for more insight

HCMC 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

pham ngu lao

BLUE DRAGON

SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / GALLERIES BAKERIES CRUMBS

BAKERY 117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

TOUS LES JOURS

KOREAN BAKERY 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4350

BARS & CLUBS BIA TUOI 33

BIA HOI 33 Bui Vien, Q1

BREAD & BUTTER

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

GO2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9575

GODMOTHER BAR

RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3832 4589 godmothersaigon.com Only a couple blocks from the bru-haha of Bui Vien, Godmother’s is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent mojitos, good food, and the weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJ’s.

setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Check out their daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect

With its two-floor, nook-andcranny setup, it combines café culture, cocktails, art, DJ nights — now the home base for the Optimist Club — live music and various "happenings", sprinkling them throughout its cozy corners.

THI CAFÉ

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929

T&R TAVERN

DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9839

UNIVERSAL BAR SAIGON VIBRATIONS

REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the name of that most special of sounds — the one from Jamaica.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

SPOTTED COW

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Alfrescosgroup.com Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

THE OBSERVATORY LE PUB

GINKGO

BAR, ART & MUSIC SPACE Cnr. Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 0906 359440 theobservatory-hcmc.com The Observatory is DJ Hibiya Line's new youth culture hub, just off Pham Ngo Lao.

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com

CAFES BOBBY BREWER’S

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4090 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fast-food style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge. Check website for movie locations and schedule.

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE 213 Bui Vien, Q1 facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BAM SKATE SHOP

SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

MARATHON

BUDGET CLOTHING 147 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019

PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING 232 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com

ORANGE

BUDGET CLOTHING 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm

U.BEST HOUSE

TRAVEL GEAR 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9780

your-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

CORIANDER

THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311

JJ’S FISH ‘N CHIPS

FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De Tham, Q1

thing from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

LA CANTINA

TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE 175/3 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

MARGHERITA

ITALIAN / TEX-MEX 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

PUNJABI INDIAN RESTAURANT

NORTH INDIAN / PUNJAB 40/23 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 3777 monuvn@gmail.com Ignore the non-trendy, holein-the-wall appearance. This side-street Indian serves up some excellent fare at reasonable prices, with a number of Punjabi specialities to boot.

SISTERS CAFE

VIETNAMESE/WESTERN 185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 Light wood paneling, beige walls and locally themed artwork help to create a fresh and airy ambience in this café-cum-restaurant that is owned by the woman behind Chi’s Café. Also does visa extensions and motorbike rental.

WRAP & ROLL 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check out the second floor, junglein-the-wall décor at this particular branch. Unique and refreshing.

ZEUS

GREEK / KEBAB 164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

EAT BABA’S KITCHEN

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.

BURRITO REVOLUTION

TEX-MEX / STREET STALL 124 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0902 714882

CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, build-

TAM HAO HANDPULLED NOODLES CHINESE NOODLES 195A De Tham, Q1 tamhao.com Nothing gets better than a bowl of tasteful broth and hand-pulled Chinese noodles, especially when it’s from Tam Hao. Hip interior design draws many a traveller into this tasteful but non-fancy hotel noodle restaurant, leaving them craving for more.

GALLERIES GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

THE HUNGRY PIG

BACON BAR / CAFE 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533 facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in any-

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 165

HCMC

district 1

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

CAFE THOAI VIEN

HOA VIEN

CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn

MZ CLUB

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Saigon’s first reggae bar located close to The Observatory on the other side of Pham Ngu Lao. Open late, holds a number of nights like Tropical Wednesday, Thursday-before-midnightshots-only ladies’ night and Underground Saturdays, all in an attempt to pump things up for the party seekers in town.

BOOKS LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com

CAFES (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews

159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien.com Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3833 3648 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

DECIBEL

INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel.vn Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3844 3295 saigongivral.com

I.D. CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.net Centrally located near Ben

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District 10

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Le Lo i

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café. Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espresso-based coffee.

n Bi e

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1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003 sam.nguyen197@gmail.com A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.

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District 2

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TOP-END BAR & TERRACE Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.

BANKSY CAFE

District 3

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CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 0906 780081

Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

To n

BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)

in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

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BARS & CLUBS

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District 4

LE PETIT CAFÉ

FRENCH 112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2067

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400 facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272 facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205 facebook.com/thingscafe Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOSSINI

UNISEX CASUAL WEAR 22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3839 2292 Bossini.com

GAYA CLOTHING

HAND-MADE / DESIGNER Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925

1495 Gayavietnam.com Clothing is designed and tailor-made by renowned designer Romyda Keth, and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. Gaya sells colourful, sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE GAYA

CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1495 gayavietnam.com Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the

products.

EAT 27 GRILL

GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grill-style fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.

CAFÉ IF

VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

COBALT

ROOFTOP RESTOBAR Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullman-saigon-centre.com A tapas-style contemporary international menu in an equally modern chic space, Cobalt also has panoramic views over the city thanks to its 30th-floor location. Has a focus on wine matching and tasting. A hotel restaurant with a difference.

DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

MAY RESTAURANT

INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE 3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1277 May-cloud.com Meaning ‘Cloud’, May utilises homemade recipes and broths developed by the restaurateur’s father, such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in an Indochine atmosphere.

MONSOON

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy

HCMC juices and smoothies.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

QUAN UT UT

AMERICAN VIETNAMESE GRILL 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500 quanutut.com On-site American grilltype fare in a Vietnamese, wooden table setting. Think ribs, burgers and all things hearty at this immensely popular eatery.

PARKVIEW

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.

QUAN BUI

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

QUAN UT UT

US-STYLE BARBECUE 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500 facebook.com/quanutut It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA STAR FITNESS GYM

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh

Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

GALLERIES

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 0183 San-art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CITYSMART Horizon Tower, 214 Tran Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3526 8833 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn re.com MEDICAL

& DENTAL

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

WE LINK

COUNSELLING 64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Psychological counselling services for individual, group and family. Diverse counsellors and therapists, using Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French and Spanish spoken.

SALONS & SPAS CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steamsauna, paraffin and waxing services.

HAIR BAR

CONTEMPORARY SALON 68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108 hairbar.vn A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/hairbarvn.

SPA TROPIC

79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 167

HCMC two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.

district 2

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

CHI LAI

DISTRICT 2 Nội

Thao Dien

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BAKERY 244 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8392 The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien, Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries such as croissants, pain au chocolat, pain raisins, pizza dough, pates feuillete and much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc, Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and Ho Chi Minh City.

LOAVES & FISHES

BAKERY / CAFE 5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4118 harvestbaking.net

VOELKER

BAKERY 39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

BARS & CLUBS BAAN THAI

SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one, the focus here is not just the cuisine but a con-

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DISTRICT 2 temporary bar area and live sports. Lots of live sports. The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.

BMV PUB & GRILL 38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel: 01299 839314 facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill With its seven TVs, full-size mezzanine area, pool table and aircon lounge space, BMV is the perfect place in District 2 to relax and watch the sports. Has live music on Thursday and Friday nights, and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in Thao Dien.

BUDDHA BAR

RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon.com Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

MCSORLEY’S

IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126 9026006 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.

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SAIGON OUTCAST

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini- skate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.

THE FAN CLUB

SPORTS BAR Ground Floor, The Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, Q2 dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub 12 quality screens and eight draught beers, music spun by DJs, excellent burgers, quiz nights and barbecues. All in an attractive, contemporary environment.

CAFES AGNES CAFE

COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offers a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Now open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed

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and intimate.

CAFÉ EVITA

LAID-BACK CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 230A Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 3888

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES LITTLE ANH-EM

BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING 37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE AUSTIN HOME

REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023 austinhomeinteriors.com Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or

HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

FEELING TROPIC

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

EAT AGNES CAFÉ

CAFÉ FARE / TEX-MEX 11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable café offering up a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Open until 10pm.

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA 126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX Trading Centre 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.

BAAN THAI

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the

HCMC SPORTS

Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

BOOM BOOM BURGER

US-STYLE BURGER JOINT 2 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 532378 boomboomburgers.wago.co A simple and tasty menu similar to that of the US’s InN-Out burger, the tiny Boom Boom has chosen to focus on the fundamentals of the perfect burger — sweet potato fries, jalapeno-infused beef patties and special avocado blends.

LA CLOSERIE D’ELISA

CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL

AND

RUGBY

024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. astere@hotmail.fr

SAIGON RAIDERS Saigonraiders.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com

SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints.com

SPORTS — GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899 James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans.com

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Saigon-ultimate.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON gauloisdesaigon.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com

Contact Fred on 0919 709

FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT 52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 A tropical garden ambience that is at once French yet contemporary Indochinese is the home of this table d’hote style restaurant and bar. Classic French cuisine at reasonable prices in the heart of Thao Dien.

LA PLANCHA 25 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8521

LU BU

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant.com Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace.

Italian restaurant, classic fare is combined with a special contemporary menu that brings together a fusion of European dishes, cooked up with Italian flair. Excellent Facebook-based delivery service. Go to facebook. com/Pendolasco2 for full menu and info.

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385

TAMAGO

CHIARA SQUINZI

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

THE LOOP

HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA AQUAFIT

AQUABIKING 65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 008985 aquafit.vn

Tel: 01278 163620 laholista.com Experienced health coach as well as a corporate and school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve their health and weight goals through the innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. For more info email chiara@laholista.com.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 540030

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)

GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort.com A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER

BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2. Tel: 0947 77 13 26 Cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril features the same personalized mentorship Cyril’s clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10. Also has kids activites classes. Monday to Friday every week at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE 100%

MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES 26B Thao Dien, Q2 100percentvn.com

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.

PAPAGAYO

FRENCH BISTRO / COCKTAILS 18 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q3, Tel: (08) 6252 1333 facebook.com/papagayosaigon

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Saigon’s longest running

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HCMC vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

GROCERIES & IMPORTER No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines with a portfolio spanning old and new world as well as everything in between. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new tipple.

HAIRDRESSERS CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure.vn Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam. Tel: (08) 7300 7257 info@eishcmc.com www.eishcmc.com Located in the heart of Thao Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 ishcmc.com The only fully authorized IB World School in Ho Chi Minh City, ISHCMC has been awarding graduates with an IB Diploma and sending them off to high-profile overseas universities since 1999.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers en-

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sure personal attention for all students.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223 theamericanschool.edu.vn

KIDS FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM www.firstBIKE.com.vn FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

SALONS & SPAS AUTHENTIC SPA Thao Dien Village, Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222

AVEDA HERBAL SPA

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON

104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321

district 3

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS BARS & CLUBS ACOUSTIC

LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 0907 502951

CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS

LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE 224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948 031323

WOODSTOCK BAR

MUSIC BAR / CAFE 39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3. Tel: (08) 39304075 metallicbar.com Showcases a variety of different types of music — anything from rock, pop and rap to Latino — as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica, Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana and Guns ’n Roses. Covered live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music starts at 8.30pm.

PLAN B

CONTEMPORARY BAR 147 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 0987 684761

171 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 2778 budsicecream.com.vn

HIDEAWAY

INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon.com Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.

OPERATION: TEAROOM

TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0169 3583563 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BOO STREETWEAR 187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 boo.vn CRAFTS

& FURNITURE

ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR

ROCK BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08) 6290 7489

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AN’S INTERIOR CAFÉ

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 3398

BUD’S

ICE-CREAM PARLOUR

ATC FURNITURE

ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 39326455 SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 38403946 atc-craft.com Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living space of your home? Come to ATC FURNITURE, you will find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly materials (water hyacinth & rattan). Our outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A hanging (hammock) chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long day at work.

REMIX DECO

INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco.com

EAT

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Open for over a decade, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eatas-much-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, Passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a Caipirinha or five.

BANH CANH HOANG TY

BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE 70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com

HIGHWAY 4

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.

JOIE DE VIVRE

WESTERN / FRENCH 292/10, Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066 facebook.com/joie.vn

PHO HOA

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943

SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor

HCMC

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Tibrestaurant.com.vn

VIET CHAY

Qu ỳnh

Tổ

2 and 3. Private and group yoga classes. Home visits available.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9429 saigonbellydance.com

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

HAIRDRESSERS

YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 michelle@michellelloyd.com michellelloyd.com American trained and licensed massage therapist and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and massage spaces in Districts

Sá Ph ủ

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VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 vietchay.vn

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY

Th ị

YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CITYSMART 7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488 citysmart.vn

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INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

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DISTRICT 3

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

VAS

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278 vas.edu.vn

MEDICAL & DENTAL STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the

foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC

CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www.acc.vn A clinic provides world class Chiropractic, Physiotherapy and Foot Care. We specialize in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries, and all types of foot problems. We also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome in children and adult.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908 453 338 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579

SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com

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HCMC

FOOD PROMOS A Taste of Malaysia @ New World Hotel saigon.newworldhotels.com It’s a brand new world at New World this September, with a Malaysian guest chef crafting traditional dishes from Sep. 10 to Sep. 21 — Malaysia Tourism Boardorganised traditional dancers will be adding flavour. At Parkview, lunch and dinner buffets will offer sizzling satay, lamb rendang, char kway teow (stir-fried ricecake noodle) and nasi kerabu (a rice dish) — all for VND610,000 for lunch, or VND910,000 for dinner. Dynasty is serving up a five-course set for VND400,000 for lunch or VND650,000 for dinner, with a la carte options of fried Hokkien noodles, beef hor fun, and prawn wonton noodle soup. And even The Lounge is getting in on the festivities, with free flow teh tarik tea, sweet and savoury Malaysian treats and a live action station with traditional roti jala — available 3pm to 5pm for VND250,000 per person.

Harvest at Snap @ Snap Café snap.com.vn Snap has always been a Thao Dien nexus for breakfast, and now they’ve added some of the best baked goods in the city, courtesy of Harvest Baking. They’ve added their awesome scones, cookies, bagels and cakes to Snap’s repertoire, and made your breakfast decisions that much harder.

At the InterCon, Time Marches On @ InterContinental Asiana Saigon icasianasaigon.com Hard to believe it’s been five years already, but that’s the anniversary the InterCon is celebrating this Sep. 9. It’s not like they haven’t been busy, racking up awards and becoming more a part of the community with every occasion celebrated at their world-class restaurants. This month, they’re inviting you to celebrate with them. Stop into Market 39 to take in a flute or two of Veuve, as part of a VND555,000++ free flow offer they’re running on evening buffets, which start at VND899,000++. Or visit their Asian restaurant Yu Chu for a taste of one of their signatures — starting at VND110,000++ this month. But don’t neglect Basilico’s three-course Italian set, specially designed for the occasion, which runs VND450,000++ including a glass of wine. After all that, Spa InterContinental will rub your belly and anything else that

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The flavours of Malaysia come to the New World Hotel this month

aches for VND1.39 million++, as part of their traditional remedy-inflected 90-minute Beautiful Package treatment.

Shang’s For Everything! @ Shang Palace shangpalace.com.vn It’s time to go back to school, and you need to keep your energy up. That’s why Shang Palace is dishing out devastating beefsteak with black pepper and BBQ sauce, dainty sautéed beef cubes with avocado salad and delirious US beef cubes in walnuts and XO chilli sauce through the whole month. Yum!

The Glories of Poultry @ Reflections, Caravelle Hotel caravellehotel.com From Sep. 13 to Sep. 19, Reflections’ chefs are masterminding new treatments for duck, chicken, turkey, quail and roast pigeon — from pan-fried duck liver

medallions to smoked free-range chicken on toasted sourdough. Three courses for VND810,000++ or four courses for VND938,000++ won’t have you crying fowl!

Time to Get Happy @ Renaissance Riverside Saigon renaissance-saigon.com The Renaissance is ensuring that all its guests stay happy this month with a Happy Hour Extravaganza on Friday Sep. 12. Between 5.30pm and 9.30pm, cocktails in the Atrium Lounge will go for just VND140,000++ a glass. This will be followed up by a German Beer Night in the Atrium Lounge on Saturday Sep. 20, perfect for those who can’t wait for Oktoberfest. With a free-flow of the good stuff going for just VND170,000++, including a choice of snacks, the 6.30pm to 8.30pm event is one not to be missed.

HCMC FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

phu my hung

CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277 The-crescent.com Overlooking the Crescent complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL Đông yễn Ch

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INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS 206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel: 01654 058401 / 01629 546534 cezsaigon@gmail.com

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DISTRICT 7 PHU MY HUNG

BAKERIES L’AMOUR

BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery.com.vn

SAVOURE

BAKERY Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

SIMRANS

BAKERY SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908 828552 simrans.sg

BARS & CLUBS BANANA BAR

EXPAT BAR SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3282 A downstairs pool table, an open, street side terrace and specials on Tiger draft, this fun but slightly run-down joint is a local haunt for many a resident of Saigon South.

PEACHES

CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt.

RUBY SOHO

CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900

THE TAVERN

EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7355 bellavitafurniture.com

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110; S17 – Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-creations.org

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-quilts.org

EAT BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

CHAM CHARM

LUXURY INDOCHINA 2 Phan Van Chuong, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 9999

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304

MING DYNASTY

LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel:

(08) 5411 5555

NATHALIE’S

THAI / VIETNAMESE S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0822 nathaliesrestaurant.com

SALT & PEPPER

PAN-ITALIAN The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 4848

SCOTT AND BINH’S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

VIVA TAPAS BAR & GRILL

GRILL & BAR/ TAPAS R4-28 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 facebook.com/VIVATapasBar.pmh As well as classical Andalusian tapas, VIVA serves up a selection of original but flavourful dishes for those who dare to try. A Mediterranean-themed interior and a desire to provide something not presently available in Saigon South sets this joint apart.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

tional British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to highschool, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence.

MEDICAL & DENTAL AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn. com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

FV HOSPITAL

102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052 lgkids.vn

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE Crescent Residence 2, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 kindermusik-vietnam.com

LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance.edu.vn Renaissance is an Interna-

EASTERN MEDICINE 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969

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HCMC

STUDENT EYE DIGITAL MEMORY

he way things change in the teenage years snaps into focus on that most important day of the calendar — the birthday. Teenagers’ birthdays may include an exciting night out partying with friends: dancing, socialising and maybe even getting drunk. Other, more toned down celebrations take the form of a fancy birthday dinner or a gathering with some of their closest friends and family members. They tend to avoid calling these ‘birthday parties’, a word which often evokes images of balloons, cone hats and bouncy castles. But today there is another, more generally practised birthday custom, which only requires a phone or a laptop. It seems nowadays, everything has become digitised, even teenagers’ birthdays. Facebook will pop up its pink cake icon, reminding its users about an upcoming birthday of one of their friends. And by the time the birthday boy or girl logs in, their timelines have been flushed with birthday posts. Sometimes from ‘closer’ friends, the post contains a collage of selfies that they took with the birthday teens along with

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lengthy paragraphs that explain how thankful and important he or she is. It even seems some of these trends have caught on with adults as well. Although some people might praise this marvelous development of technology that “makes the world more open and connected”, it also has another effect, one that actually trivialises birthdays.

Different Year, Same Thing With daily Facebook birthday reminders, it’s become somewhat of a routine to post a simple, emotionless birthday wish like “hpbd, have a great one”. And with this routine comes an expectation of receiving one back on one’s birthday. Now, despite all the ‘interest’ that friends have shown them, these birthday posts become more a burden than anything — they might not even remember half their well-wishers. The whole process appears to be laborious and often quite meaningless. This new birthday culture has also led teens’ attitudes to change. Birthdays used to be dates that close family and friends memorised, flowers and stars marking them on the calendar. They

were special days not only because it was the date one was born on, but a date that was dedicated and associated with a particular person. But with Facebook and all those new apps shooting up notifications and reminders, people no longer memorise these dates. Actually, everyone remembers everyone’s birthday, which has drained the unique aspect that birthdays used to hold. It is unlikely you will ever read those birthday posts again, which disappear into a special birthday wish grouping that may never be looked at. But it is much harder to throw away a birthday card, which you’ll keep with you much longer, not only in your drawer but in your memory as well. This year, if you can’t be there for your friend’s birthday, you can still do something positive. Write them a card or give them a phone call, and give them one less repetitive post to ‘like’. — Tae Jun Park Tae Jun Park is a high school senior at the United Nations International School of Hanoi, unishanoi.org

Lễ Hội Phim Đức Vào lễ hội lần thứ năm này, Viện Goethe sẽ mang đến Việt Nam những thước phim mới và hay nhất của điện ảnh Đức, và sẽ được trình chiếu ở năm thành phố bao gồm Sài Gòn, Hà Nội và Đà Nẵng. Với khoảng 50,000 người đến tham dự vào lễ hội năm trước, phim dành cho tất cả mọi người, và sẽ có một buổi họp mặt với nhà làm phim Constanze Knoche và Leis Bagdach ở Đại Học Hoa Sen Sài Gòn vào ngày 8/9. Họ là hai nhà viết lời thoại cho nhiều phim truyền hình thành công của Đức, và cùng nhau làm một vài bộ phim nổi bật và phim tài liệu, bao gồm bộ phim The Visitors. Vé miễn phí tại Viện Goethe và tại các rạp Cinebox, 212 Lý Chính Thắng, Q3, Tp. HCM và Trung Tâm Chiếu Phim Quốc Gia, 87 Láng Hạ, Ba Đình, Hà Nội. Để biết thêm chi tiết về lịch trình chiếu, xin vui lòng ghé trang web goethe.de

Từ Bach đến Beatles

The Lemonheads Đến Việt Nam! Đối với những ai sinh vào trước những năm 1990, nhóm Lemonheads và âm nhạc hỗn loạn tuyệt vời đầy mê hoặc đại diện thể loại alternative-rock của họ là một trong những điều yêu thích nhất. Word hân hạnh giới thiệu Evan Hudson và bạn sẽ phải thốt lên rằng: "Ôi, thật tuyệt! Evan của tôi đang ở đây, điều này sẽ tuyệt lắm đây." Họ sẽ có mặt tại Sài Gòn bé nhỏ cổ

Katona Twins là một trong những bộ đôi guitar gỗ hay nhất thế giới, được biết đến với khả năng điêu luyện khi chuyển đổi thể loại âm nhạc từ cổ điển sang những thể loại phổ biến hơn. Họ sẽ trình diễn tại Nhạc Viện Tp. HCM (112 Nguyễn Du, Q1) vào ngày 27/9, đây sẽ là cơ hội duy nhất để thưởng thức âm nhạc của bộ đôi đã từng giành được các giải thưởng và trình diễn tại một số nơi nổi tiếng nhất trên thế giới. Điều quan trọng hơn là chương trình biểu diễn của họ bao gồm các nhạc phẩm của Handel, J.S.Bach và Albeniz, cùng một số tác phẩm của Tears for Fears, The Beatles và cả Queen, và kết thúc đêm diễn bằng ca khúc Bohemian Rhapsody. Vé miễn phí tại Viện Goethe, 18 Đường Số 1, Cư xá Đô Thành, Q3, Tp.HCM, từ 20/9

kính này vào thứ ba ngày 2/12. Để biết thêm thông tin cho các buổi diễn tiếp theo, xin email về dkilroy7@yahoo.co.uk, hoặc ghé facebook.com/loudminorityvietnam. Được giới thiệu bởi Loud Minority, đêm diễn sẽ được tổ chức tại Q4, 7 Nguyễn Tất Thành, Q4, Tp. HCM với sự hỗ trợ từ The Secret Asians và James and the Van Der Beeks.

Chay Bộ Từ Thiện Của BBGV Mỗi khi BBGV muốn tổ chức một sự kiện giải trí nào đó, họ đều làm theo một cách thông minh nhất. Do vậy, không có gì ngạc nhiên khi năm nay, sự kiện chay bộ hằng năm này lại được tổ chức vào Chủ Nhật ngày 28/9. Trong 14 lần trước, tổ chức đã quyên góp được gần 7 tỷ đồng và quỹ này có xu hướng tăng lên từ từ. Năm nay, ban tổ chức hy vọng sẽ có 9,000 người tham gia, với những phần thưởng dành cho người thắng chặng đua dài 4km và có những trương trình giải trí theo sau. Cuộc đua bắt đầu từ 7:00 tại Tân Trào, Phú Mỹ Hưng, Q7, Tp.HCM. Để biết thêm thông tin đăng ký tham gia (bắt đầu từ 8/9) và tài trợ, xin liên hệ Trân tại officemanager@bbgv.org hay Claudia tại claudia.lambie@bbgv.org

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NGƯỜI TRONG CUỘC

TP HCM

Cứu Vớt Hai Cuộc Đời Mặc dù Viện Tim Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh đã cứu trên 4.000 trẻ em trong 22 năm hoạt động, mỗi trái tim đều được họ chữa trị với tất cả nhiệt huyết. Viết bởi Margaret Smith. Ảnh bởi Francis Xavier

ặc dù khá nhỏ so với tuổi của mình, em Thạch Xuân Thái, 2 tuổi, cũng như bao đứa trẻ đang lớn khác: tò mò, liên tục uốn mình và tràn đầy năng lượng. Em cũng rất thân thiện và đưa tay ra để chào bất cứ người nào em gặp, em cũng thích chạy lên chạy xuống trong con ngõ nơi gia đình em ở. Tôi gặp Thái một năm trước, khi đó, em còn là một em bé rất khác. Thái sinh ra mang ba căn bệnh về tim: một liên quan tới nội tâm thất – có một lỗ hở ở giữa hai tâm thất; bệnh về van hai lá ở tâm nhĩ trái; và tăng huyết áp động mạch gây ra bởi hai bệnh

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kia. Em hầu như không có cơ bắp trong năm đầu đời của mình, và rất dễ mệt mỏi khi dành hầu như cả ngày nằm một chỗ. Thật không may, những ca như của Thái không hiếm ở Việt Nam. Theo trung tâm Y Tế Quốc Tế (CMI) tại thành phố Hồ Chí Minh, một cơ sở khám bệnh ngoại trú ở quận 1, cứ 100 trẻ em thì có 1 em sinh ra với bệnh tim bẩm sinh ở Việt Nam, và thường thì không được chữa trị trong một thời gian dài. Đó chính là lí do Viện Tim Thành Phố xuất hiện. Có vốn từ CMI, học viện cung cấp dịch vụ chăm sóc tim cho trẻ em ở những gia đình

khó khăn trên khắp Việt Nam. Được thành lập bởi Tổ chức Alain Carpentier, kết hợp với chính phủ Việt Nam, họ đã giúp được cho 4.000 trẻ em trong 22 năm hoạt động.

Con đường tới trái tim

Làm thế nào để Viện Tim tạo ra được ảnh hưởng lớn như vậy? Theo ông Maelle Jarlier, trưởng phòng tài chính của CMI, bệnh nhân của những gia đình có khả năng chi trả thì trả tiền. Viện thường giúp họ tìm khoản tiền này và nó có thể đến từ nhiều nguồn khác nhau, bao gồm cả bảo hiểm y tế – vì tất cả trẻ em

“Thái đã có thể chết nếu không được phẫu thuật vì tăng huyết áp. Phổi của em có thể sẽ bị tổn thương nghiêm trọng, tạo ra sự tắc nghẽn của phổi hoặc tim có thể ngừng hoạt động”

Việt Nam đều được nhận khoản này cho tới khi 6 tuổi – từ gia đình họ hàng và thậm chí cả phường xã nơi họ sinh sống. Đối với những gia đình không thể trả tiền, học viện sẽ chi trả phần còn lại với sự thông qua của CMI. Những gia đình nộp đơn xin quỹ này cần có chứng minh từ các cơ quan nhà nước về tình trạng kinh tế khó khăn của gia đình. “Chúng tôi luôn đảm bảo rằng [khoản tiền] này đủ để họ được phẫu thuật,” Jarlier nói. Trong trường hợp của Thái, gia đình em chỉ chi trả được một phần ba chi phí cho ca phẫu thuật. Bà ngoại và dì của em bán vé số kiếm sống, mẹ em ở nhà – trong căn phòng thuê ở Quận 4 – để chăm sóc hai chị em Thái. Mẹ em kể sau khi biết được tình trạng yếu ớt của em, bố em đã đòi li dị và bỏ đi. Thái được phẫu thuật vào tháng 8 năm 2013. Em ở trong viện hai tháng và có hai ca phẫu thuật khác nhau: một để khép lại lỗ hổng trong tim và một để chữa van hai lá. Ca phẫu thuật hết tổng cộng gần 70 triệu đồng. Theo bác sỹ Nam Phương, bác sỹ trưởng khoa tim mạch của CMI, Thái đã có thể chết nếu không được phẫu thuật vì sự tăng huyết áp. Phổi của em có thể sẽ bị tổn thương nghiêm trọng, tạo ra sự tắc nghẽn của phổi hoặc tim có thể ngừng hoạt động.

Hiện nay, cuộc phẫu thuật lớn đó chỉ để lại một vết sẹo nhỏ và mỏng chạy ngay dưới xương đòn và tới gần ngực của em. Bạn khó có thể nhìn thấy nó dưới chiếc áo em mặc khi em đang nhảy nhót lên xuống.

Sức mạnh lan tỏa

Trường hợp của Nguyễn Bảo Long, 1 tuổi thì không nghiêm trọng như của Thái. Long bị bệnh thiểu năng trí tuệ và cũng sinh ra với một lỗ hổng ở tim, nằm giữa những buồng dưới, hay còn biết đến là bệnh hở vách ngăn tâm thất. Tình trạng của em rất có khả năng để chữa được mà không cần phải phẫu thuật mở tim. Nếu mọi việc diễn ra như dự kiến, em sẽ chỉ phải ở lại viện trong hai ngày. Tuy nhiên, chi phí để thực hiện phẫu thuật vẫn là một gánh nặng. Phẫu thuật của Long sẽ mất khoảng 74 triệu đồng, một con số mà bố mẹ em không thể chi trả. Theo hồ sơ của Viện Tim, mẹ em bán rau ở chợ, còn bố em là công nhân xây dựng. Cả gia đình em sống ở một nơi gần như một cái ga-ra được thuê ở Quận 12; nằm xung quanh những bức tường vững chãi, phía trước ngôi nhà của em chỉ có một vài tấm vải và nhựa che. Họ chuyển tới thành phố Hồ Chí Minh tám năm trước với hi vọng tìm được việc làm.

CMI đã đồng ý trả khoảng 60 phần trăm giá của ca phẫu thuật, và bảo hiểm của Long sẽ trả phần còn lại. Khoản tiền này dù vậy cũng chỉ là tiền phẫu thuật và không thể giúp cho chi phí về thuốc men hay tiền giường bệnh ở bệnh viện. Theo bác sỹ Đỗ Thị Kim Chi, nếu lỗ hở ở tim của Long không được vá lại, máu sẽ chảy qua và làm cho nó ngày càng lớn hơn. “Em bé sẽ gặp khó khăn để phát triển, và sẽ không thể có được sức khỏe tốt,” cô Chi nói. “Em sẽ lớn chậm hơn so với những đứa trẻ khác.” Rất may là Viện Tim chưa bao giờ từ chối trường hợp nào, kể cả những phẫu thuật nhỏ. Tất cả lợi nhuận của CMI được chuyển cho Viện Tim, và họ cũng quyên góp một số tiền thêm từ những buổi gala từ thiện hàng năm. Ga la từ thiện năm nay sẽ diễn ra tại Park Hyatt Saigon vào ngày 22 tháng 11. “Tôi thật may mắn,” Jarlier nói với một nụ cười. “Đó là lí do vì sao CMI [tổ chức] gala từ thiện, để có đủ tiền và không phải từ chối trường hợp nào.” Để biết thêm thông tin về CMI, Viện Tim và gala từ thiện hàng năm của họ, hãy xem tại cmivietnam.com. Tất cả lợi nhuận từ cơ sở y tế CMI cạnh Nhà Thờ Lớn sẽ được chuyển vào Viện Tim để thực hiện những ca phẫu thuật cho những người có hoàn cảnh khó khăn.

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TIN NGẮN

HÀ NỘI

Attimi:

Nghệ Thuật Nằm Trong Những Vật Bình Thường

Barbara Pellizzari lần này đã thay những hình ảnh về thành phố bằng những khoảnh khắc hiện tại trong triển lãm mới của mình

arbara Pellizzari nhìn thấy những thứ thường bị bỏ qua trong cuộc sống hàng ngày. Thay vì nhìn thấy một gia đình nhồi chật ních người trên một chiếc xe máy, cô thấy một cái nắm nhẹ vào vai, bàn tay những đứa trẻ chạm vào bảng đồng hồ, bắt chước bố của chúng. Những hình ảnh đó là nguồn tài liệu cho buổi trình diễn sắp tới của cô với tên gọi Attimi, có nghĩa là “những khoảnh khắc” trong tiếng Ý. Tổ chức tại Đại Sứ Quán Ý tại Hà Nội, buổi triển lãm mở cửa từ ngày 18 tháng 9 tại Casa Italia, trung tâm văn hóa Ý mở năm ngoái. Những tác phẩm này là một phần trong hành trình tìm hiểu về Việt Nam của cô, trước đây cô bắt đầu với những tác phẩm về các tòa nhà lộn xộn và những chú bướm được vận chuyển trên sông, trong triển lãm Những chuyến phà (Cargo) năm ngoái tại deciBel, thành phố Hồ Chí Minh. Trước khi chuyển tới sống tại Việt Nam hai năm trước, cô đã có 12 năm giảng dạy và sáng tác nghệ thuật ở Thượng Hải và Bắc Kinh. Trước đó, cô là người gìn giữ nghệ thuật ở thành phố Florence, Ý; Chicago, Hoa Kỳ, và Karachi ở Pakistan. Và bây giờ cô đang ở Việt Nam và trầm trồ trước mỗi góc phố mà cô nhìn thấy.

Những Kỳ Quan Với Vẻ Ngoài Gần Gũi

Tìm thấy kỳ quan ở những cái tưởng chừng như rất bình thường của Việt Nam chính là ý tưởng của những tác phẩm của cô. “Tôi quyết định mang tới tất cả những gì đã làm cho tôi kinh ngạc ở nơi đây,” cô nói. “Ví dụ ở Châu Âu, hoa lan được coi

là rất giá trị và tinh tế. Ở đây bạn có hoa lan ở mọi nơi. Bạn có hoa lan ở những ban công khiêm tốn nhất và cả ở trong những ngôi nhà hào nhoáng nhất.” Điểm làm cô ấy ấn tượng nhất là con người nơi đây, qua những nhịp điệu của họ, qua cảm giác kết nối của họ với mảnh đất này và với nhau. Barbara nói: “Mỗi người có một nhịp điệu khác nhau, họ có hệ quy chiếu thời gian khác nhau… họ làm theo bản chất tự nhiên. Khi họ muốn ngủ, họ ngủ, khi họ muốn nghỉ, họ nghỉ. Họ có mối liên hệ chặt chẽ với gia đình. Và tôi muốn nắm bắt được tất cả những khoảnh khắc đó.” Tuy sử dụng những cảnh đó như là tài liệu sống nhưng cô tách rời nó ra khỏi hoàn cảnh nơi nó diễn ra và cô tập trung vào phần hồn của nó. Bỏ đi những bộ quần áo khoác trên người của những nhân vật của mình, cô quấn cho họ trong những mẫu vẽ của những đồ vật phổ thông như những cốc cà phê, những tô phở, những bánh xe nơi cửa Phật, những chiếc ghế nhựa, biểu tượng @, hoa,

thuốc lá và cả những chai bia 333 – những thứ mà mọi người tiếp xúc trong cuộc sống hàng ngày. Đây là những thứ Barbara nhìn thấy được khắc họa khắp nơi trong nền văn hóa ở đây. “Tôi kết hợp truyền thống với khoảnh khắc đương đại,” cô nói. “Người Việt Nam – và đây là điểm rất hay của họ – họ rất mạnh mẽ trong việc xác định đâu là tâm hồn của họ, lịch sử của họ và đâu là truyền thống của họ…[họ có thể] hòa nhập vào hiện đại trong khi vẫn giữ được những giá trị cũ.” Tôi nhắc tới Kehinde Wiley, một họa sỹ tại New York, người đã đặt những người Mỹ gốc Phi vào trong những mô phỏng của các tác phẩm hội họa nổi tiếng, mang những biểu hiện trên gương mặt họ và những trang phục hàng ngày ra khỏi khung cảnh quen thuộc của họ. Với cách làm đó, ông đã thách thức những phỏng đoán của chúng ta, buộc ta phải có cái nhìn khác về những con người này. Nó có vẻ khá giống với những gì Barbara đang thực hiện ở đây. “Hãy nhìn vào tấm hình này nhé” – cô chỉ vào một bức ảnh của một người đàn ông cởi trần. “Tôi chưa làm người đàn ông này bởi vì anh ta không mang đủ quần áo trên người như tôi muốn có trong dự án của mình. Nhưng nó trông như một tư thế thuộc trường phái Kiểu cách (Mannerism) từ thời Phục Hưng. Nếu bạn nhìn vào những bức tranh truyền thống, nó thực sự là từ thời gian đó. “Vì thế bạn thấy đó, Việt Nam cũng có trường phái Kiểu cách. Và nó rất nên thơ.” — Ed Weinberg Attimi được trưng bày vào ngày 18 tháng 9 tại Casa Italia, 18 Lê Phụng Hiểu, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội.

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The final say THE FINAL SAY

HANOI

Dognapped! Whether it’s talked about in international newspapers or in hushed tones down the street, the illegal dog trade is a problem. With Katie Jacobs joining the ranks of Hanoi dog owners, she finds her struggling with the same questions

“D

id you know dogs are stolen and held for ransom?” a friend casually asks as she pats my five-month old golden retriever. Not knowing how to respond, I nod sadly in agreement as Marmalade licks my feet. Over the past three months of dog ownership I have become all too aware of the fear and rumours surrounding dognapping across Vietnam. “You have to watch out, the nappers drive by on scooters and lasso the dogs right off the street,” one friend had warned. “I heard of a person getting their fingers broken when their dog was snatched from their hands,” said another. “My neighbour’s dog wandered down to the end of the street and never returned,” I also heard. Then came the worst one of all: “Did you hear about the teenage boys who were murdered for trying to save stolen dogs?”

The Stories When I first announced I had adopted a puppy, my family in Australia made all the usual crass jokes about her being stolen for dog meat. I rolled my eyes, how cliché. But I soon came to realise that, although Marmalade is not the type of dog to be stolen for meat, their jokes had more substance that I imagined. “The majority of dognapping still occurs for sale to dog restaurants,” says Marilyn Drinkwater, vice-president of Friends of Happy Pet Clinic, an animalawareness organisation in Hanoi. “But as the popularity of pedigree breeds grows, the frequency of stealing dogs for ransom is becoming increasingly common. They are usually people who are desperate for money and these expensive dogs are easy cash.” There is no data on dognapping frequency in Hanoi, but ask any dog owner, particularly one living in the Tay Ho area, and they will have a plethora of stories that have either happened to them or someone they know. None of these are more notorious than the case of Hisui Kobayashi and her Siberian Husky Kuma. Kuma went missing while on a walk one evening in April. Hisui lost sight of her for a few minutes and when she called out to Kuma, the dog didn’t return. After searching frantically well into the night,

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Hisui and her friends distributed posters all around town. Desperate to get her dog back, Hisui offered a VND15 million reward to anyone who could return Kuma. “Within a few days all the posters had been torn down. We must have put up hundreds but I only ever saw a few of them,” says Hisui. With such a large sum of money involved, word about the missing dog spread quickly and the dognappers weren’t keen on the attention they were attracting. There was now a large group of people looking for Kuma. When Hisui asked the local vet if they had any leads, she was informed that over 20 people had already been inquiring about the dog. Kuma had become a doggy gold mine and the hunt was on. Knowing quite a few people who had been victims of dognapping, Hisui turned to her friends for advice. “They informed me there was a procedure,” says Hisui. “They said I would receive a phone call within a week demanding money in return for my dog. They told me the dognappers would try to play on my emotions and that I should be careful not to fall for their games.” After days of searching, the phone call came and the negotiations began. It was at this point in Hisui’s story that I started to realise the severity of the dognapping business — it was like listening to the plot of the next Hollywood blockbuster in which Liam Neeson swoops in to rescue all the Taken dogs and restore law and order to the Tay Ho dog world. When I said this to Hisui she smiled. “I know, it was a crazy time,” Hisui says. “I knew the people who had Kuma were watching me. I returned home one evening to find one of them waiting for me with pictures of Kuma on his phone. He said he could get her back for me.” So against her better judgement, Hisui jumped in the car and followed the man into the night. 15 minutes later Kuma was in the car and Hisui was handing over the VND15 million she had negotiated. But all she cared about was that Kuma was safe.

The Fear “I try not to let anyone I don’t trust know about my dogs,” says a Tay Ho resident who prefers to remain anonymous for fear

of attracting attention to his expensive pups. The breed is so rare that it is yet to be bred in Vietnam, and he is convinced that the dogs will be stolen if the wrong people hear about them. “The breed needs very little exercise so they are happy on the deck on the top floor of my house. But I’m worried because my neighbours are now building a house that is taller than mine. I won’t be able to control who sees them.” He also added that he knows of housekeepers stealing or ‘borrowing’ dogs to breed while the owner is away. Whether stolen for meat, breeding or ransom, these threats are feeding fear and anxiety in dog owners across the country. Earlier this year, three teenage boys were murdered in Ho Chi Minh City when they attacked a group of dog thieves. Stolen dogs fetch approximately VND200,000 in restaurants and abattoirs. “Those boys died for less than US$10,” says Drinkwater. “In the end these people are stealing property that does not belong to them. Whether it’s a phone or a dog, they are thieves and they need to be held accountable.” According to a June article by Thanh Nien, dog owners across the country feel they are powerless against canine thieves, many of whom become violent when confronted. In 2012 residents of a village in the north-central province of Quang Tri murdered accused dog thieves that had escaped legal punishment. When the police arrested the suspected murderers, the entire village signed a mass confession.

The Solution On a recent trip to the park with Marmalade, I watched as she played with the other purebred puppies — Huskies, Labradors, Australian sheep-dogs. Feeling a little more worried about her I looked around at the other dog owners and realised that they too were watching their dogs closely. “I don’t really know what the solution is,” says Hisui, “but I recommend that dog owners keep a very close eye on their pets.” Drinkwater agrees. “You can think you have the situation under control but the dognappers are so fast that you turn your back for one second and the dog can be gone.”

â&#x20AC;&#x153;When Hisui asked the local vet if they had any leads, she was informed that over 20 people had already been inquiring about the dog. Kuma had become a doggy gold mine and the hunt was onâ&#x20AC;? wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 181

Tracking the Yeti When we addressed the legend of Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bigfoot in our July issue, people called us crazy. Here, iconic war journalist Wilfred Burchett and close friend of Ho Chi Minh writes on another sighting

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Bigfoot

When we ran our original article on the yeti back in July, a number of negative comments followed. Here is what you said:

Bigfoot in Vietnam? Come on. Are you that stretched for good content? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like the story of Merlin, King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table. Both France and England have the same myth â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the sword coming out of the lake. So does Vietnam, with the sword rising out of the lake on the back of a turtle. But bigfoot? Really.

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hen talking about intrepid journalists, Wilfred Burchett (1911 — 1983) should be one of the first names to come to mind. His moment came on Sep. 5, 1945, when London’s Daily Express printed his Morse code dispatch on the horrors of Hiroshima — the first public report detailing the postatomic effects on the city. Although his report was one of the scoops of the century, there was much more to Burchett’s intrepidness. Starting in 1936, when he left his native Australia to help Jewish refugees escape Hitler’s Germany, he began a career of championing the underdog. Despite turning 60 during the American War he still travelled hundreds of kilometres to cover it, often sheltering in tunnels with NVA and Viet Cong soldiers against attacks by US forces. And in one of his most intrepid reportages, he wrote on Vietnamese legends of the Yeti in a 1965 volume entitled La Seconde Resistance. What follows are excerpts from Chapter 10, entitled Du Yeti aux Elephants.

The Passport During the war era, the journalist who interviewed Ho Chi Minh the most was Wilfred Burchett. Yet Burchett's connection with Vietnam went further than his inthe-field reportage and his personal relationship with Uncle Ho. In 1955 his passport mysteriously disappeared over lunch on a trip from China to Hanoi. Already at odds with The West due to his coverage of The Cold War from 'the other side', the Australian government refused to issue him new papers. North Vietnam came to the rescue. Together with his family for a number of years he travelled on papers issued by the Socialist Republic of Vietnam.

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******************** I felt particularly guilty, because I had insisted, against the advice of those responsible for my security, that we deviate from the established itinerary. There was an amazing story I wanted to check and we were heading for the place where we could find the only people who could shed light on it, if we were able to meet them. My request was eventually met. And here we were! I had put a whole group of guerrillas, each of whom was prepared to give their life to save mine, in an impossible situation. In normal circumstances, we would have never had engaged an enemy patrol, because every territory we had to cross was cleared thanks to a very effective reconnaissance network. It was no doubt that patrol that had alerted the helicopters. And they were now on the edge of the jungle; hovering just above the treetops. Thanh handed me his carbine. We had trained together — to defend ourselves against tigers, we were told — and he knew I was a better shot than him. After the customary greetings, I asked if

there were M’Nong from Dak Mil District, Dak Lak Province among the local guerrillas. There were indeed two — stocky fellows with dark, almost chocolate skins and large ears — whom their comrades pushed forward... A few weeks earlier, in a very different region, Tran Dinh Minh told me the story I am going to now recount. He was very surprised (after all this had nothing to do with the war) by my keen interest in his story and the questions I bombarded him with to obtain additional information. “In 1949,” he told me, “my mission was to explore the border zones of Dak Lak. I had to produce a map and explore all possible itineraries — even if they had to yet be cleared — that could be used as escape or communications routes in an emergency. Among other districts, I worked in Dak Mil, with its apparently impenetrable mountain chains, which forbid access to Cambodia. But how inaccessible were they? I had to find out. “I organised a small expedition with a few M’Nong and we ventured into the mountains. Their steep flanks are covered in dense jungle.

My M’Nong companions explained to me that huge boulders made the clearing of ray [brush] impossible. As we went deeper into the mountains, the landscape became wilder and more fantastic. Soon, we couldn’t cover more than a kilometre a day — one kilometre on the map, that is. Often, it took a whole day to climb a mountain only to discover another steep mountain range. “Wild animals were in abundance: tigers, panthers, wolves, not to mention all kinds of deer, in brief, all the fauna of Vietnam, except for elephants. There were also strange birds I had never seen before, the size of a peacock, but different. They would take off from between rocks, their long tails trailing behind them. We killed one and ate it. It was good. There were no fruits, no streams. There were only a few palm trees of an unknown species and, close to the summit of the highest range, we discovered holes in the rocks, round like small plates, filled with fresh water and teeming with eels as thick as a thigh. We harpooned a few with bamboo spears: they were delicious. We didn’t lack in supplies: they were as easy to catch as picking a bunch of bananas. “We travelled along the mountain range and, after some time, when we entered the wildest and most arid part, I was stunned to spot human footprints on the sand. We hadn’t seen any trace of humans for weeks. And those prints were numerous. It was amazing. We followed the freshest tracks for several days and, one morning, we heard a kind of chirping, followed by the sounds of someone fleeing in the direction of a cluster of palm trees. We came too late: all we could see were two sets of footprints leading to the palm grove. We searched the place but didn’t find anything. Nevertheless, my M’Nong companions, after carefully studying the footprints, made an interesting discovery — the most recent prints were made by someone walking backwards: indeed, the heel left a deeper mark in the sand. “So we followed the first set of prints in reverse. It led us to a cave occupied by a very frightened male creature, entirely naked save for a kind of tiny cache-sex [a small garment that covers the genitals] made of bark; his entire body was covered by thick dark hair and his hair covered his shoulders. Crouching in a corner of the cave, the creature was visibly petrified despite our best efforts to show that we had no hostile intentions. The M’Nong addressed him in their language. I too tried every dialect I knew but in vain: we could get nothing out of him, except the kind of sounds we’d heard earlier, the strange chirping. “The M’Nong were not as surprised as I was: they told me that their brothers from Dak Mil District knew of the existence of these strange mountain creatures; they would sometimes come across their footprints while tracking a tiger or some other wounded game, or even spot some of the ‘hairy creatures’ walking hand in hand in the jungle. They even saw them chop down palm trees with their bare hands...” At this stage, I interrupted him to say that perhaps the creatures were using stones. Minh agreed with me but added that the

M’Nong insist that “they can cut down trees with the side of their hands” and are therefore stronger than humans. “We discovered new tracks coming from another cave, but as the sun was setting, we just marked the place, planning to return the next day. That particular cave contained only ashes and bones. We decided to take our prisoner to our district base hoping someone would be able to understand his language: in vain. We had great difficulty making him eat anything. He watched us eat our rice, but refused to touch it. “The M’Nong told us that they’d heard that the ‘creatures’ ate the fronds of palm trees — the particular species of palm trees we came across when we surprised them. We gathered a few leaves which the ‘creature’ devoured raw. We offered it some roasted monkey. It took it, looked at it, sniffed it, but refused to taste it. The M’Nong then suggested we just warm up the meat without cooking it. “It worked, but the ‘creature’ was still very afraid of us: it trembled at the slightest noise. We had to tie him up when we went to sleep and kept him tied on the way back to base. We reached our base without incident but no-one was able to translate our prisoner’s chirping. As there were no palm trees like the ones in its native mountains, we decided to take him back. But, to our great chagrin, he died and we buried him on the spot...” I wasn’t able to gather any more information. However, in the Dak Mil District everybody knew that such ‘creatures’ existed, that they are “the most fearful and timid of creatures”, and that they live in caves that they abandon as soon as a stranger approaches. According to the two M’Nong, the journey from the district centre to the zone where they live would take “from full moon to full moon”. When peace returns to South Vietnam, an expedition will no doubt go there to establish the objective facts. What an irony it would be

to discover that the “abominable snowman” really exists... but in the tropics! Later, I discussed what I’d heard with an ethnic minorities expert from Saigon. He’d never heard of the Dak Mil ‘creatures’. He said, however, that if they really existed and that no-one knew about it, there was nothing surprising about that. “It’s in M’Nong country, and the M’Nong were in a permanent state of war with the French, who were never able to penetrate their territory. The M’Nong keep strangers away from their lands. It is quite possible that along the valleys and rivers where quasi Stone Age societies still exist, there also exist people who are even lower on the evolution scale. “Not so long ago, in many places in the Tay-Nguyen, people still lived in the Stone Age. Thus, during the anti-French Resistance, cadres who’d made first contact with the Sedang people discovered that they were using stone axes to cut down trees, stone knives and scrapers to make bamboo spears and carve game. The tradition of letting meat rot before eating it may be a leftover from a time predating the discovery of fire. And if it’s true that these ‘creatures’ live naked, they are only one step behind some tribes where men and women only wear the simplest of cachesexes. Only a generation ago, the Sedang still lived in the stage of primitive communism. And if human groups still exist at this level of civilisation in open regions, why wouldn’t others still live in the prehistoric age in a region as remote and inaccessible as Dak Mil?” ********************

Special Thanks A big thanks to George Burchett for allowing Word to republish both the writting and photos of his father, Wilfred Burchett

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The final say

THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

Taking the Plunge Swimming education is a hot-button issue in Vietnam. With thousands of drowning deaths occurring each year, it’s something that should be seen as a crucial need. Unfortunately it isn’t. Vu Ha Kim Vy jumps into the deep end, finding answers to this paradox along the way

espite the many benefits swimming gives — including survival skills — I have always hated it. Thanks to hydrophobia, deep water always sent shivers down my spine whenever I was in it. Like other people who put off doing something, I’ve had motivations to learn to swim. But nothing ever pushed me into taking that vital first step until earlier this year. That’s when a deal was struck with a friend, one that would help us both be healthier. “I will quit smoking, and you will learn how to swim!” he said. His voice was still echoing in my head on that fateful first day, delayed from April for the usual reasons (being busy, not having a swimsuit). It wasn’t until June that I started class, when every school in Vietnam is out for summer. It was the wrong choice.

Swim Class is for Kids? Like a kid headed to their first day at school, excited I prepared everything the night before. The alarm woke me up at 7.30am, and I rushed to blend into the hustle of people going to the pool. The class started at 8am. “Kim Vy?” the coach called. “Next time, please get your daughter here earlier!” He looked at the membership card, on which neither age nor photo is printed. Seeing my eyebrows raised, he gave me a smile as an apology. With a question nagging at me, I stepped toward the pool in my swimsuit, swim cap, earplugs and goggles. My excitement quickly disappeared when I noticed that all of my classmates were kids under the age of 11. There weren’t only two or three of them, but about 20. More than 40 eyes — including some from the coaches and the parents — started staring at me, and I stared at the space in front of me. The question was answered. I was hating swimming more than ever.

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The only difference between my swimming lesson and a circus show is that I was the only clown, and I wasn’t getting paid. My show reached its climax when bright orange inflatable armbands and a back float were offered to me. I heard the parents to the side giggling. Three of them were seated on benches waiting for their kids. They were continuously laughing. “Can you guys swim?” I asked them. “No!” they responded, and continued to laugh. Hypocrites.

By Numbers Vietnam has a coastline of 3,260km, double the north-to-south distance of the country. 390 rivers flow in between. According to the Department of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs, there are more than 3,600 cases of drowning every year in Vietnam — the highest rate in the region. Some estimates suggest the real figures could be twice or even triple the size. According to the Alliance for Safe Children, 13,000 children die each year from drowning — that’s 35 children per day. Even with such geography and statistics, swimming isn’t considered a vital part of the curriculum in Vietnam. In school, it’s offered as an optional subject in high school physical education. And worst of all, people aren’t concerned. Like the parents who watched me flail, most Vietnamese don’t take swimming seriously. “Bend your knees, extend your legs and close them together!” the coach yelled. He was teaching the breaststroke, and it seemed easier to practise it on the ground than in the water. While my legs were still shaking, I figured out why these adults didn’t want to take a swimming course. They gave me many reasons, from being busy with life to hydrophobia, from an aversion to getting

tanned to some kind of illness that doesn’t allow people to swim. But I guess the truth is they don’t want to experience what I had to go through during my first swimming lesson.

Changing Course I am not addicted to swimming, but I have a daily routine now. And my coach does, too — three sessions in the morning and two sessions after 5pm every day, with more than 20 students attending each one. For me, though, it’s just mornings. People might not attach importance to their lives, but the risk of their children drowning matters to them. Thanks to the government and local swimming advocacy organisations, this awareness is growing wings. With the support of the World Medical Association, the Department of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs has developed a project that started in 2012 and extends to 2015, aiming to reduce the annual drowning rate by 25 percent compared with 2010. There will be free swimming lessons sponsored by government and local organisations, currently in pilot runs in Can Tho, Danang, Hai Phong, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. There are also NGOs such as Water Safety Vietnam who are helping children learn to swim. Since 2012 they have taught over 1,000 kids to swim as well as over 300 adults. They have also recruited and trained local swimming coaches. As Donald Miller, a best-selling American author, once wrote, “Fear is a manipulative emotion that can trick us into living a boring life.” Swimming is a new Barbie that I, a little girl, found in an intimidating-looking toy box. The fear hasn’t disappeared, but instead it’s been transformed into a respect for the water — and now that I can do it, I don’t hate swimming anymore.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;My show reached its climax when bright orange inflatable armbands and a back float were offered to me. I heard the parents to the side giggling. Three of them were seated on benches waiting for their kids. They were continuously laughing.â&#x20AC;? wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 187

The final say

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THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

Always Keep Ice in Your Beer

...and other practical advice for attending weddings in Vietnam. ‘Tis the wedding season after all. Words by Evan Hudson. Photos by Nick Ross

ere’s a situation that may or may not sound familiar: your friend or coworker has pressured you into attending a wedding — theirs, or their uncle’s or maybe the man who neutered their cat. The venue is located somewhere in the vast urban sprawl surrounding your city on a street Google Maps has never heard of, and as you arrive you feel a sinking feeling in your stomach. You have no idea what to do. That’s okay! A Vietnamese wedding can be a tricky proposition. If you play your cards right, it can be a beautiful celebration of love and family. If you act the part of Bumbling Foreign Fool, it can be three hours of awkward, boring purgatory. I want to help you, dear reader, to avoid this fate, so I have composed a short list of suggestions to help keep you from making a fool out of yourself at any weddings you may have to attend in the future. If you keep these rules in mind, hopefully you won’t end up sleeping in the bushes or sitting at the kid’s table, wishing you were at home watching HBO. Walk with me.

Don’t Flake Out Upon receiving the wedding invitation and replying in the affirmative, it is important to recognise that you are definitely going to attend and plan accordingly. I made this mistake some time ago. A female coworker invited me to her wedding, which was to take place at some ungodly hour on a Saturday morning. When the time came I elected to stay in bed instead of following through on my promise. For the next eight months she never said a word to me again even though I sat two cubicles away from her for more than 20

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“A female coworker invited me to her wedding, which was to take place at some ungodly hour on a Saturday morning. When the time came I elected to stay in bed instead of following through on my promise. For the next eight months, she never said a word to me though I sat two cubicles away from her”

hours a week. If you are invited and aren’t sure if you’ll be able to make it, say so — because once you say you’re going, you’re locked in.

Starve Yourself a Little It looks weird if you’re not eating anything. People will think you’re not having a good time, so it’s a good idea to skip breakfast the day of. Eating seconds is good form. You will probably eat thirds because the food at weddings is always on point.

Bring Money There will be a box near the entrance for storing the envelopes of money brought by guests. Even if you’ve never met the bride or groom, the envelope with your name

on it needs to have at least VND500,000 inside if it’s a city wedding (at country weddings, you can get away with stuffing in VND200,000, though you run the risk of being thought of as the cheap foreigner). It goes up from there — if you’re going to a wedding in a five-star hotel, a minimum of VND1 million is safe. Try the same if you’re going to the wedding of a close friend, a coworker or a family member. If you feel like showing off, put your money in one of the complimentary envelopes assembled by the entrance. The conspicuous delivery of your gift will likely be rewarded with a curt nod of approval from at least one of the salty old aunts standing around.

Water It Down Here’s your mantra: 75 percent ice, 25 percent beer, and only drink the rice wine if you can’t get out of it without looking like a wuss. Your beer should be the colour of a well-hydrated marathon runner’s urine. If you notice your chunk of ice dissolving, grab the tongs and get another one in your glass swiftly. If you ignore this advice you will probably be in sorry condition by hour three.

Be Adventurous Try all the food provided. At countryside weddings, especially, you might be asked to try some unfamiliar things — congealed duck’s blood, frog, pig fat, guts. It doesn’t really matter, because you should eat

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whatever’s put in front of you. To decline proffered food is an awkward refusal of hospitality — and it’s not like you’re going to look back from your deathbed and wish you had experienced fewer things. When you go back to wherever you’re from, and the girl you had a crush on in high school asks you what totally crazy foods you tried in Vietnam, you can be like, “I ate a duck butt and it was actually good!” It will be impressive to her because she has three kids and limited time to go to one of your hometown’s three ethnic restaurants.

Bring a Friend Especially if it’s a huge blowout wedding (you can tell by the invitation — if it has gold leaf on it, it qualifies). It’s probably even cool to bring a friend or two — it’s not like there’s not going to be enough food or drink. You might want to notify the hosts in advance, though. Not that going by yourself is a bad idea — if you fly solo, you might actually end up having a better time because wedding guests are super friendly, but you run the risk of flying too close to the sun with the rice wine. Remember, if it’s a small countryside-type wedding, you’ll probably be the only foreigner in the room, so literally everybody and their uncle will want to meet you — and offer you a drink. This is where the danger comes in.

Nam Muoi-Nam Muoi Say you’ll drink 50 percent, but actually

drink 25 percent. If you’re not acquainted with the custom of tram phan tram, you soon will be. This is Vietnamese for ‘100 percent’ — and when you hear it and vocalise your agreement, it means you have to finish your beer even if you’re already having trouble keeping your head off the table. A good idea is to counter the offer of tram phan tram! with nam muoi-nam muoi, offering to drink 50 percent of the beer instead of the whole thing. Then only drink 25 percent, and hope the drunk uncles don’t call you out on your cowardice.

Choose Your Table Wisely Sit with people who will be fun to hang out with for a few hours. It’s bad form to dip out before everybody else, and if you are sitting at the kid’s table or a table full of very elderly women three hours can feel like a very long time. Conversely, if you sit down at a table of college-aged dudes, you’ll be forced to drink at least a dozen beers. Sitting at a table with a nice-looking family is a happy medium. Most importantly, don’t sit at the table of grizzled-looking middle-aged men. In addition to the communal shots (mot-haiba-vo! — rinse, repeat for five hours), you will be asked to drink shots with each and every man sitting at the table. One time, at a wedding in a small town near Dalat, I tried to put a tally on my hand for every shot I took. I awoke some hours later in a coffee field behind the outhouse, with about a dozen marks on my hand

and a large infinity symbol drawn in what appeared to be lipstick.

Socialise If you only sit at your table and talk with your friends, people will think you’re a snob. Even if you don’t speak Vietnamese, hang out with the grannies a little bit and let the host show you off to their relatives. Practise English with the kids a little bit. You’ll come off as a friendly and polite cultural ambassador, and meet some cool people in the bargain. Remember to thoroughly ice your beer before you begin to make the rounds.

Plan Your Exit Ask the location of the bathroom from a reliable source. One time I got tricked into walking into the bridal party’s dressing room in front of 500 people. Needless to say, I got some cold stares. Don’t make the same mistake.

Take a Taxi Home Drunk driving is somewhere between a necessary evil and a national sport in Vietnam, but the truth is that you will probably be wasted and there’s no need to get killed on the way back from the party. Of course, you might be in the countryside, without easy access to a taxi, in which case you could always try to hitch a ride back to your hotel with one of the more sober guests. In any case, it will make your life easier if you arrange transportation beforehand.

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The last call One of the faces behind Saigon late-night bar Last Call, California native Lola Guimond has gone from fashion designer, stylist and actress to well-known bar manager and cocktail aficionado. Photo by Kyle Phanroy Going to school with Snoop and Cameron Diaz… at Long Beach Poly

High was a trip. It was the late 1980s and violence between the Bloods and Crips was no joke. My fondest memories of both of them are before and after high school. In junior high, Cameron had a platinum mullet, wore rock jerseys and skinny jeans. She was the ultimate heavy metal chick. A few years after graduation, I ended up working with Snoop on the video, Murder Was The Case. My buddy Shawn was head stylist and hired me on this crazy video shoot. When she found out we went to high school together, I became Snoop’s personal stylist.

As an accomplished swimmer… I’m

thrilled that swimming programmes are now being taken seriously here in Vietnam. Nobody should fear water.

California… is the best place on earth, es-

pecially southern California. Next to Saigon, of course.

My background in fashion design… opened a lot of opportunities for me, especially travel. I still enjoy design as a creative outlet. It’s fun. When I first arrived here in October 2008, nine days before Halloween, I whipped up Wonder Woman costumes for all my female staff at Q Bar.

My first trip to Vietnam in 1997… was intense because I spent my first two months on a strict diet and was jumping rope an hour per day in the hotel gym to prepare for my role as the daughter of Harvey Keitel in the movie, Three Seasons.

Spending time on the same film set as Harvey Keitel… was beyond words. He’s a strong and compassionate man. He donated all of his earnings to a children’s foundation.

The demise of Q Bar in Saigon… has spawned many an urban legend! Anyone who’s heard about the iconic Q Bar closing

at the height of it’s popularity should know that yes, it was all that!

Bobby Chinn… had a great concept and the right team to be successful — I was one of his managers. Unfortunately, when your rent is as high as it is in Beverly Hills, there is zero room for error. It should never have been in the Kumho Link. What an atrocity.

We got the idea for Last Call… because we wanted a fun and safe place to party late night after everything closed, hence the name.

Making cocktails… is a blast! My bartenders are little chemists and I so appreciate all of their creativity. I just let them go and see what they come back with. The best thing about Last Call is… our artisan

cocktails and music selection. We take both very seriously.

My sleeping habits… are great for preventing melanoma! When I made my trip home to California last July, my father was shocked to see how pale I was. It was like he saw a ghost. It’s the occupational hazard

of running a late night venue. You become a card toting member of the vampire club. I am a creature of the night.

Vietnam… is a place where the sheltering sky almost demands you live by your heart.

If I could change anything in Vietnam, I would… like to see more aware-

ness with young adults and safe sex; more concern with air pollution; affordable and safe, real helmets since there is a helmet law in effect here.