Word Ha Noi March 2013 by Word Vietnam

Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực Hanoi EDITION

MARCH 2013

Nhà Xuất Bản Lao Động

Contents

wordhcmc.com

MARCH2013

032

066

056

040

006 | The Prelude

columns

THE TALK

FEATURES

009 | The Big Five 011 | Exhibitionist 012 | The Buzz 016 | In the Papers

030

034

Chula, Que Bueno!

060 | Day Tripper

The temples of Soc Son make a great getaway

070 | Woman

Strong women who are doing something different

penang street eats

056

Forgot KL, Singapore or even Hanoi. The real capital of Southeast Asian streetfood is Penang

062

the gift experience

Popular in Europe, a new high-end gift experience has made its way to Vietnam

The Teacher

026 | Q & A

SAIGON

That metropolis down south may have its airs and graces, but it's also somewhere to write home about. Here's an insiders' view

INSIDER 024 | The Many Faces of Hanoi

the phu quoc dog

Once close to extinction, Vietnam's national dog is making a comeback

018 | Calendar 020 | Overscene

110

064

33 revolutions per minute

Thanks to collectors in Hanoi and Saigon, vinyl is making a comeback

068

guessing games

Almost 25 percent of the Vietnamese population is into gaming. Are you?

072

mystery diner

Malaysian cuisine comes under the spotlight again

114

are you saussure?

Signs, signifiers and meanings. Time to read between the lines

The first primate to have an eye operation in the world, had it in Vietnam

110 | The Director

Meet the man behind the movie on Vietnam's version of Mother Theresa, Christina Noble

FINAL SAY 116 | The Last Call

Jonas Hjerpe, one of the faces behind new lounge bar, 88

2 | Word March 2013

March 2013 Word | 3

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL aaron joel santos Photo Editor aaron@wordhanoi.com

MADs monsen Art Director mads@wordhcmc.com

francis roux Staff Photographer francis@wordhanoi.com

douglas pyper Staff Writer douglas@wordhanoi.com

hoa le Staff Writer hoale@wordhanoi.com

rose arnold Staff Editor rose@wordhanoi.com

kaitlin rees Features Editor kaitlin@wordhanoi.com

nick ross Chief Editor nick@wordhanoi.com

ADMINISTRATION Duong Vy Bao General Director bao@wordhanoi.com

Le Dang Phuong Trang Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com

Add: 47 Lo Su Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: (84 4) 3935 2400/01 Email: Info@namastehanoi.com Fax: (84 8) 3935 2402 Website: www.namastehanoi.com

ADVERTISING chau thi huong giang Sales Manager & Office Manager giang@wordhanoi.com

- Authentic Indian Cuisine Serving both North & South Indian dishes - Cozy & Ambient setting - Halal Food - Free Home Delivery - Indoor Party facilities & Outdoor catering services - For details contact Gopi 0903 266 997 Or Ms Dung 093 657 2277

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SUBSCRIPTIONS hai@wordhanoi.com For advertising enquiries please call Giang on +84 934 640668 or Bao on +84 938 609 689 Special thanks to Tim Doling, Derek Milroy, Ed Weinberg, Fabiola Buchele, Steve Jackson, Jasper Waale, Hai Vu, Adam Astley, Alexandre Garel, Francis Xavier, Elisabeth Rosen, Huyen Tran, Nguyen Bao Ngoc, Khong Ten, FMP, Brian Webb, Shane Dillon, Mark Bowyer and Phuong Dung Tran for their contribution to this issue. Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Word - Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word (Ho Chi Minh city và HaNoi) của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

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4 | Word March 2013

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Công Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành, Phường 4, Quận 3, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com

In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 92-2012/CXB/161-02/LĐ ngày 28/12/2012 Quyết định xuất bản số 542/QĐCN-LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 28/12/2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2013.

March 2013 Word | 5

The Prelude “W

ell it’s Tet,” said everyone. “I’m going away.” Our question: how to put a magazine together in the precious few days before the world stopped for a month? Our solution: write what we know. What that meant was creating content for someone else, since what we know is probably what you already know as well. Thus a city switch. This month’s issue dedicated to Saigon was created by the experts on our team living

ChuyêN Đề du LịCh, ẩm thựC haNoi EditioN

maRCh 2013

there. They give their insider input into healthy lifestyle trends, tackle the tough questions about where to find the best dinner, suggest escape routes to bucolic bliss within the city, and muse over the weather. And with photos capturing what words cannot, we see the city through the eyes of our two photo editors, one based in the north and one in the south. As a city that appears to revolve around eating and drinking, we asked our Saigon team to give us a taste of what else lies beyond the

INBOX “The Old Quarter has never been more accessible and easily navigable since the February issue of Word.” — NN

typical bacchanal, in the realm of wholesome fun. We also asked what was going on with the cover bands versus the original music scene. Though the exceptions seem to prove the rule, just to confirm, we checked in with two big names in restaurant and music promotion. We hope this issue opens your mind, gives you something to think about, as well as something to eat and drink when the time comes for a visit. As always, please email editor@wordhanoi.com with any feedback.

Nhà Xuất BảN Lao ĐộNg

THIS MONTH'S COVER Design by Claire Driscoll

Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us AT EDITOR@wordhANOI.com — we’re now at your fingertips.

y Gerr with looks w ie ut!” interv eque “The inemath that layo C e from me, I lov R so —T awe

“I didn’t get the magazine until quite late this month. It’s disappointing to find out I’ve missed things because I didn’t know about them.” — AR

“Who is the handsome man in the American flag jumper in Overscene?” — TH

6 | Word March 2013

March 2013 Word | 7

The Talk

THE

thE big 5 / Just in / the buzz / calendar / overscene

Time and Place

big

watch out out for for this this month month Things to watch

Is now the right time to invest?

A Year of Living Healthily The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is already celebrating its first anniversary with an event-filled month. Alongside regular events like Positive Mass, this month taking place on Friday Mar. 29, the venue will also be hosting two live music events. Hanoi native Phuong Dang’s kooky piano-based songs will take to the stage on Mar. 17 while Hi Jinks rock out on Sunday Mar. 3. If you’re looking for the bottom line, then you’ll find it on Sunday Mar. 31 when the real birthday celebrations will be taking place. Pedals, inner tubes, beers, sandwiches, salads, gin and tonics, film screenings, live music and community movement have been the mainstay of THBC’s first year in Hanoi and as you’d expect, there’ll be plenty of positive energy to celebrate. On the day there’ll be a ride round West Lake, kids’ activities, live music, great food and fresh beer. If you like what THBC has done for the community over the last year, then let them know. THBC’s first anniversary will take place on Mar. 29 at 44, lane 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. For a detailed itinerary of the day’s events, check out THBC’s Facebook page

Photo by: ePi.Longo

France Bigs it Up

olumes of copy have been written about the country's present economic woes. The nature of this vitriol has been so negative that it begs the question: is it time to hang up those well-worn boots and seek fame and fortune elsewhere? The answer surely must be no. Recent conversations with three friends have revealed interesting experiences. All have moved on from jobs based in Vietnam, and with hopes of finding more fruitful climes, have searched for employment overseas. One found work almost immediately upon return to the UK: a regional managerial position with a well-known international fast food chain. Within days he was complaining about the ‘muppets’ he had to train over in England. The grass is always greener, true, and he missed working with Vietnamese colleagues who he found to have a more positive energy and a greater appetite for advancement than their compatriots overseas. The other two went on job hunts in their home countries only to return to searching better and more personally rewarding employment in Vietnam. This all suggests that now may not

8 | Word March 2013

necessarily be the moment to up roots and head west. Or even more topical, to switch your energies to the smash and grab market in Myanmar.

To Invest or Not to Invest With so many losers and so much wasted investment, is the Vietnam of 2013 really the right place to look for a future and part with your cash? The answer, at least according to this investor, is yes. But if you're going about your business with the build-it-andthey-will-come attitude, a trap so many fall into, then this country will no longer be your much hoped for field of dreams. There are many advantages to taking the plunge here. Rents are low at the moment — this writer was recently offered office space in a close to downtown office building for VND300,000 a square metre. This represents a quite substantial reduction on the rental demands of the past. There is an increasingly skilled and worldly-wise labour force in this country, although talk to business owners and they are likely to unleash a torrent of frustration over the staffing issues they have to endure. However, the traditional 13-month salary, the extra month to be paid immediately before Tet, is no longer standard. And the

worker-favoured labour laws play to your advantage, build clever bonus systems into salary structures, and you can protect yourself from unforeseen staffing issues. Interest rates on loans from the banks are relatively low, at least by local standards, and there are more guarantees against rate hikes than there were in the past. With the housing market at a lull, it is easier to secure long-term leases under more favourable terms than it was a few years ago. However, to expand or launch a new business you do need to take care. Your product must be strong and requires constant improvement. You can never rest on your laurels. And you need a strong marketing campaign to back up your business. Failure to do this may quite literally mean failure, no matter how strong your vision or unique your concept. But most importantly when you finally open your doors for business, you need to hit the ground running. There is of course time for improvement, but with little ready cash floating around, that time is short. If you can create something a little unique and have the full package in place, then 2013 is a good time to invest. There may not be a gold rush out there any more, but there still could be that pot of gold. — Nick Ross.

Similar But Different One of the hottest young beatmakers in the Philippines, Similar Objects, is making his first international tour to Hanoi. He may only be 24, but Jorge Juan B. Wieneke V has already been signed by three different labels. Deeper Manilla, Number Line Records and Singapore’s DarkerThanWax have all seen the value in Similar Object’s productions that range from ambient to glitch; minimal to hip-hop and avant-garde to idm. Support will be provided by Vietnam’s hottest young musical talent, DJ Slo Lo aka Bush Lam. Undoubtedly, Similar Objects and Slo Lo are two of Asia’s hottest players. Catch these versatile and talented beat-makers, producers, DJs and experimental electronic musicians together in Hanoi, Vietnam. Similar Objects and Slo Lo will perform on Mar. 8 at CAMA ATK, 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Tickets are VND100,000 or free before 8pm with DJs from 9pm

The end of this month seas the start of the French season in Vietnam. Commemorating 40 years of diplomatic relations between the two countries, a number of events have been organised to mark the occasion, culminating in a 3D light show in Ho Chi Minh City and an exhibition on Alexandre Yersin, the scientist officially recognised as the founder of Dalat, in December. This doesn’t mean Hanoi is being left in the dark, though. As well as orchestral performances, a French football team tour of the country, the arrival of hiphop contemporary dance artist Kader Attou and a number of outdoor concerts at Hang Day Stadium, L’espace will continue their frequent cultural events and their screenings of French movies. For more information, watch this space or go to www.ifhanoi-lespace. com. There should be some pretty edgy stuff coming up this year

The Whole of the Moon The live shows keep coming as CAMA bring American electro-psych two-some Moon Duo to Hanoi on Wednesday Mar. 20 Formed in San Francisco in 2009, Ripley Johnson and Sanae Yamada fuse the futuristic pylon hum and transistor reverb of Suicide or Silver Apples with the heat-haze fuzz of American rock ‘n’ roll to create tracks of blistering, 12-cylinder space rock. Think the Velvet Underground with added handclaps and swinging organ bloops over potent, shredding and guttural guitar riffs. Moon Duo will be performing in Hanoi on March 20. For details on venue and pricing see www.camaatk.com

Events at Madake West Lake’s newest event venue, Madake, continues its live events this month a range of shows including Tandem, a night of house classics on Mar. 8, a bass-infused night with Sub Elements on Mar. 9, London underground music on the 16th and a night hosted by Hanoi music collective, Synergy, on Mar. 23. As ever the venue will be open late and will continue to serve out a selection of beats and themes you’re unlikely to hear at all those clubs where top-shelf spirits are a must. There’s even some pretty tasty Thai food on site if the mood so takes you. Madake is at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

March 2013 Word | 9

The Exhibitionist

OUR MAN BY STEVE JACKSoN

You Don’t Know What They’re Like

hen I was a lowly account executive at a public relations agency in Newcastle upon Tyne there was a senior manager who joined us from a London firm. I took an instant dislike to him, not helped by the fact he’d lecture me on black people. Me just being a hick from the provincial sticks he’d claim I “didn’t know what THEY were really like.” A quick check on LinkedIn and the said racist has further climbed the corporate ladder — being a bigot has never really been enough of a barrier to success in the UK. The fact that his widely shared dream was to “win the Staples account” will tell you all you need to know about the fun guy he was to be around. I’ve noticed many times since that racists always profess to have a special insight into the lives and cultures of those they profess to dislike. The people least likely to engage and accept are the ones, apparently, who know the most.

Stereotyping Vietnam During my first spell in Hanoi I don’t recall the current myth of mean Hanoians being mentioned. Fast-forward half a dozen years and happy smiley Saigonese and their grumpy northern counterparts seem to be widely accepted stereotypes. And yes, “you don’t know what they’re really like” is still levelled at me, despite my own years adding up here, despite being married to a Vietnamese, despite being part

10 | Word March 2013

Mimes! Lap Loe at Goethe

of a wider Vietnamese family. Strangely those most likely to lecture aren’t normally residing in Hanoi, with the worst offenders I’ve encountered being Ho Chi Minh City expats. A journalist friend of mine who continues to shake her head at international reporting of Vietnam always cites one reporter who came here and referred to Vietnamese in print as “delicious”. Positive stereotyping, yes, but stereotyping nonetheless. It doesn’t quite bug me as much as Bill Hayton suggesting in his book Rising Dragon that business deals between men here are universally sealed with prostitutes and booze. He writes: “… paid-for sex is a respected way to form bonds of trust and friendship and thus an essential part of doing business. Deals will often be lubricated and celebrated with the assistance of a cohort of sex workers. Illicit sex is, more or less, a staple of mainstream male life in Vietnam...” The recent pronouncement by Pulitzer Prize winning numbskull extraordinaire Joel Brinkley that Vietnamese are aggressive rat eaters was a high profile slight but far from an exception. Though blaming the American war on meat was a new one in ongoing attempts to rewrite it as all Vietnam’s fault.

The Blame Game We are all individuals and would expect to be respected as such. High crime stats for young, black males in London don’t make all young, black, London males criminals. Likewise NGO stats on equality don’t make

all Vietnamese men lazy, boozing, whoring, gambling, wife beating, misogynists. Liberal NGOs can be quick to label people or organisations as right-wing racists, and some stats are more grant-worthy than others. There are some incredible expat idiots in this city, but I’d take exception to being categorised by the lowest common denominator. Meanwhile back home I’ve developed an increased sensitivity to the rise in blaming all Britain’s woes on immigrants (apparently this has more legs than blaming banks or governments, whatever the evidence). It’s a very odd feeling to stand somewhere with your Vietnamese wife and hear “they’re letting anyone in these days.” I probably should have reminded them that where I live I am an immigrant. One day we may return to the UK where it will be my wife’s turn to be the foreigner. Thanks for reminding us in advance of attitudes towards her. If I’d had spoken up, I’m sure all would have been suitably embarrassed. “Oh we don’t mean you of course.” Because, in this instance, they do know what we’re like. We’re not all those terrible people they read about, the people they only know by their bad reputation. We’re not a right-wing horror story nor Liberal hate figures. We’re just as real as anyone else. We’d expect to be judged on an individual basis — just as any one else would.

At the forefront of Vietnamese experimental and performance art, Tran Luong has done much for Hanoi. This month the Goethe Institute exhibits the artists’ video installation Lap Loe. The work was part of last month’s group exhibition No Country at the Guggenheim Museum in New York. Lap Loe is part of Luong’s series Red Scarf/ Welts that was performed around China, Korea, Indonesia, Singapore and Vietnam. The red scarf worn by schoolchildren in Vietnam and other countries is a powerful image for Luong, one that holds uncertainty and a foreboding. It is these red scarves that “suddenly flare up like the efforts of the ashes before going out.” The Goethe Institut presents Tran Luong’s Lap Loe video installation from Mar. 8 until Mar. 21 at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh from 9am to 7pm. The opening on Mar. 7 starts at 6.30pm.

The human body moving in silence speaks to all ages and all languages. And speak it will. This month, renowned Japanese mimist Limuro Naoki, who studied under the founder of modern pantomime, will perform Time of Mime in Hanoi. The performance will include a slow motion scene at the depths of the sea. Particularly now, particularly here, where movement and sound can feel so aggressive, the sublime art of silence is certainly one you don’t want to miss. Time of Mime will show in Hanoi on Mar. 9 and Mar. 10 at the Youth Theatre at 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung. The shows open at 7.30pm, free admission tickets can be picked up at the Japan Foundation on 27 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung, open from 9am until 6pm.

Space Minimisation at L’Espace

CAGE at Art Café What are we hiding from? What are we protecting? Artist Robert Natoli explores the self-created physical and emotional cages of our time through a study of line, colour, shape and distinguishing marks. In a work that asks more questions than it attempts to answer, Natoli exhibits his process of working in the deeper parts of the subconscious. What happens inside those parts of the consciousness that we usually keep locked in cages? After three years of living in Vietnam, Natoli’s work is also a response to an environment that contains myriad hidden layers of existence. Cage will run from Mar. 9 to Mar. 11 at Art Café on 12 Quan Su, Hoan Kiem

L’Espace’s foyer is hosting dozens of miniature city, home and landscapes this month. Small wooden boxes contain delicate worlds created by Artist Vu Kim Tu made from traditional Vietnamese and Japanese paper. Illuminated from the back these tiny spaces invite you to look closely for the loving detail put into each creation and search for fairysized flip flops, staircases and bus stops. Taking her inspiration from the contrast of country and city, the sculptures reflect just that variety of rhythm, landscape and lifestyle. The exhibition will run until Mar. 18 at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem

March 2013 Word | 11

The Buzz

Friendly Hand Bag The content of a handbag is as individual as their carriers. And the guys of friendly hand bag in Hoi An will ensure the exterior is just as exquisitely unique. Choose the shape, colour, zip and pocket amount of what is that all important barer of your out-of-fashion lipsticks, crumpled-up tissues, the odd dead fly and one or two pens. And Friendly promises to look after your handbag until every bit is as you imagined it --customer service they call it. And for our readers they are throwing in a 10 percent discount, so make sure you pay them a visit during your next beachscape. Just let them know you read Word and the offer is yours. Go to www.friendlybaghoian.com, visit their Hoi An location at 44 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An or call 0935 211382

The Lonely Langur Lounges in Bookworm Too

Turn off the Lights, Turn on the Ideas Annual tee shirt design contest Tat Den Bat Y Tuong is in full swing again. “The Tshirt of Change” will support Earth Hour 2013 by calling designers to create shirts that translate to real change for the wearers and the people who see them. This year, the contest aims to spotlight the environment and motivate young people to get involved in curbing climate change. With a Mar. 8 deadline, designers should get busy. The ten best designs will be printed on 1,000 tee shirts and sold with proceeds going to environmental activities that engage the youth. Send tee shirt designs by Mar. 8 to BOOVironment Department, 308 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung or email tatden@bosua.vn

Fat Cat The Cat is coming of age. The nocturnal felid is turning two and surely that’s 18 in cat years and therefore reason to celebrate on the Mar. 16. Thursday’s Deep House tradition continues this month, reinvented as the weekly Deep Touched series. Ah eh, alors, zer is also une party Francaise, on Wednesday Mar. 27, so prepare for some tri-colour boogying. Fat Cat is located at 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem

The endangered Langur population on Cat Ba island brought Suzi Garner to the drafting table with pen and ink. Now Garner brings her pen and ink drawings to Bookworm’s Nghi Tam Village location. Books are available for purchase, starting at VND1 million, prices negotiable. To celebrate the langur, red and white wine will be on sale for VND60,000, along with VND15,000 Beer Ha Noi and free snacks, every afternoon in March until 6pm. The bookshop also beckons with 20 percent off all second hand books, 10 percent off all new books. Bookworm Too is located at Ngo 1/28, Nghi Tam Village. Call: 3829 2322 or email bookworm@fpt.vn for info

HANOI

TANNOY

March at the Hilton Sipping a ginger margarita to the tunes of live music is the Hilton’s Friday evening theme in March. It’s cocktail Friday. And then you might as well stay for Pancake Saturday. This month every weekend sees the lobby of the Hilton transformed into a crepe feast. Try your hand at flipping these French delights and get them filled with all things scrumptious. Live cooking will take place from 2pm to 6.30pm every Saturday (VND140,000 per person). The Hanoi Hilton is located at 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem

Here there is a greater value on speed, but not speed in the 'fast' sense but speed in the sense of 'time' and 'movement' being one. Whoa, put that back in your brain. All of us have been broken at least once. Maybe that's the point of the holiday break though, right? I need to find my earth again.

Slimming with Salad With summer around the corner, Slim Salad is offering a new menu with a massive selection of salads, sandwiches and desserts. From Mar. 15 to Apr. 15, all orders over VND170,000 from 6.30pm to 8pm will receive a discount of 10 percent. Pop into Slim Salad at 33B Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem or call 3933 6130. Other branches are at 9 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung and 8A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

MBike Vietnam The premier edition of Vietnam’s first bicycle magazine will ride into town this March. Launched thanks to a growing enthusiasm for all things cycling, MBike magazine aims to pedal cycling info to everyone from five to 120 years old. Six times a year MBike will report on everything bicycle, both to get news out to those already cycling, and to contribute to the ever-growing cycle market in Vietnam. For more information go to www.facebook. com/mbikevietnam or check out www.mbike.com

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La Residence Summer Promotion Deeply buried under your duvet, you may not believe it just yet, but summer is on its way and with those first promises of sunrays, the promos are coming in. Hue’s La Residence is beckoning with a three-for-two-night deal, or should your schedule only allow for two nights away from home, the second night will be yours at a 50 percent discount. The offer is available from May 1 to Sep. 31. Visit www.la-residence-hue.com for reservations.

Less legs, less legs, more arms! Nice haircut. My face is now the moon.

The Not-So-Modern Age Getting those Mad March hares? Feel the energy of spring with a seasonally-inspired menu from Cameron Stauch, former chef to the Governor General of Canada. Vegan and gluten free options will be available alongside aura enhancing gemstones and Chakra-sprucing necklaces. If that doesn’t satisfy your lust to put flowers in your hair then a night of Trinh Cong Son classics certainly will. Trinh Cong Son isn’t renowned as the best Vietnamese singer songwriter for nothing, with an entire genre of music being named after him. If you need to find out what all the fuss is about, Tran Hong Nhung and friends will be exploring his career with renditions of his best tracks. The Spring Equinox Harvest Dinner will take place on Mar. 20 at the Hanoi Social Club, 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem. Bookings are essential and can be placed by calling 3938 2117. For a night of Nhac Trinh, visit the Hanoi Social Club on Mar. 16

Big Wig Music in Singapore Next month will mark the inaugural Big Wig Music Festival in Fort Canning Park, Singapore. Perhaps the biggest of the big wigs, Pharoahe Monch. will spit rhymes and soothing melodies alongside his company W.A.R. Media. The daylong affair will also feature some of the bigger names in hip-hop, soul, funk, disco, moombahsoul, reggae and dancehall, as well as noteworthy local acts. As no hip music festival these days is complete without a skateboard ramp, live graffiti and breakdance, these, too will be a part of the Big Wig. Big Wig Music Festival will be held on Saturday Apr. 6 at Fort Canning Park in Singapore. Tickets are currently on sale at www. sistic.com.sg or by visiting www.bigwigfestival. com

What's your zodiac sign? Well it's funny, I don't have one. I was actually born in the gap of the universe. Secretly I'd rather sit in the corner of the bar watching and judging. Don't you already do that? Yes, but I'd like to do it more. Well I've spent the morning watching jooking videos, I think I'm ready.

March 2013 Word | 13

{t ech Tips}

Spring Spa Special

** Online Shopping Outside Vietnam * *

key aspect of any successful trade is trust. Trust that the buyer pays the agreed amount, trust that the seller provides the agreed item in the agreed quality and volume. Shopping online is much harder than physically going into a shop, looking at what you’re going to purchase and making decisions based on what you see and feel. So why take the risk? The answer is simple. Online shopping gives you access to items not available in Vietnam — books, DVDs, toys and much more. There are also hotel bookings, the purchase of cheaper air tickets and a host of other possible savings. So is it worth the risk to buy items online? I say yes. Amazon has built a unique network of online shops and has managed to create a high level of trust with its customers. I deal with 20 to 25 different online shops that I trust, all via Amazon.

Shipping and Payment One issue you might find is that websites overseas just can't ship to Vietnam. Most of the time it’s related to not having the right costing or international agreements set up. I purchased a pair of Sebago shoes directly from their website, only to discover that they couldn’t be shipped to Vietnam. It took several calls and emails for the issue to be resolved. In many cases I have had to have items sent to friends in the US, UK or Denmark. They have then sent

14 | Word March 2013

them to me directly in Vietnam. Payment is another problem. With so many online scams, make sure to use a high-quality website when you make that purchase — low-res photos, spelling errors and ultra-low prices are warnings that you may be falling for a scam. Unless you have a guarantee from your bank in Vietnam that you’re covered against fraud — international banks like ANZ, Standard Chartered and HSBC have one — make your overseas payment with a credit card issued outside of Vietnam. This way, if anything goes wrong with payment, you are able to reclaim missing funds. A good option is Paypal, which works as a clearinghouse, taking payment from you and passing on payment for a small fee. The final thing to bear in mind is tax in Vietnam. It’s a bit hit and miss and you might have to pay anything from nothing to 30 percent to get your item out of the post office. Generally I pay 10 to 15 percent for DVDs or shoes when I pick up the package — the post office sends a note to your home or office address informing you that there is a package waiting. Just remember to bring your passport to get that coveted good. And I can confirm that so far, I have yet to report one missing shipment. Jasper Waale is a computer and online specialist. You can contact him by emailing jasper.o.waale@ matrongvang.com

Chess Tournament at SIS

Get your fill of spring spa fun at the Van Chai Resort. With special promotions running until Apr. 15 you’ve plenty of time to enjoy reduced room rates and discounts. The deal is that for VND1,489,000 you will get a room for a night along with a 10 percent discount in the restaurant and a further 10 percent off any spa treatments. The Van Chai Resort has out door swimming pools, steam baths, Jacuzzis, a gym and pretty much everything else you need to relax. For more info call 3717 2438 or email sales@ vanchai-vn.com. All the details of the resort can be found on their website, www.vanchai-vn.com

The Delight of Your Life

Women Wot Lunch

This Women’s Day - that’s March 8 in case you weren’t aware the Sheraton are offering the “present” of a wide ranging buffet. But before you get too excited, bear in mind that this is the kind of present you pay for. To get stuck into the buffet at the Sheraton’s Oven D’or Restaurant will set you back VND1,200,000, but it does promise to be “delightful”. If you’re feeling less flash, or just don’t love her enough, then try getting away with something similar at Sheraton’s Hemisphere Restaurant. Lunch here will only set you back VND365,000. She probably won’t know the difference. Well, maybe not… The Hanoi Sheraton Hotel is located at K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

The feeling’s right at Press Club as Women’s Day prepares the ground for Ladies’ Night. Pamper lovers, wives, mothers, daughters, grannies and trannies at the Press Club’s special Women’s Day Buffet Lunch. What woman wouldn’t be impressed by Press Club’s 1920s themed bar and views overlooking Ly Thai To? If you’ve got more women in your life than you know what to do with, then just take the whole lot down to the buffet. Men treating more than one deserving lady, get one dinner on the house. The Press Club is at 59 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Women’s Day is Mar. 8, pray you don’t forget it

Make your move at the 4th Interschool Chess Tournament on the Mar. 23 from 9am to 5pm. Singapore International School (SIS) has paired up with VietChess Club and are inviting five to 12 year olds to step to the board and show their strategic skills. Pawns will be moved, mates will be checked and the school will also open its doors to parents and students interested in their syllabus and international programmes on Mar. 16 (pre-school and primary) on Mar. 20 (middle school to graduation). Children can still be registered for the chess day by contacting SIS on 3758 2664

Know Your Market Offering a “true taste of Vietnamese cuisine”, Novotel Halong Bay reckons they can take the market out of markets while retaining the essence of the market. Every Saturday evening until April, guests can enjoy a market in the property’s restaurant. A wide range of authentic dishes from all over the country are promised in a buffet format within the cozy confines of Novotel Halong’s The Square restaurant. If you like markets, but don’t like markets, Novotel has the market just for you. The buffet will be serving up market fare every Saturday evening from 6.30pm. Adults can get tuckered out from VND525,000++ with a 10 percent discount for Advantage Plus members. Novotel Ha Long Bay is at Ha Long Road, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh. For more info email info@ novotelhalong.com.vn

Dragon Runs UNIS Rings in the Changes From August, the United Nations International School is beginning a raft of changes for its youngest attendees. The well-funded school’s Early Childhood Centre will be doubling their capacity of three-year-olds and will introduce all-day classes for those who’ve had quite enough of their little angels. After-school activities are also being enhanced as are the facilities with multi-sensory discovery classrooms and playspaces making an appearance in August. For more information on UNIS, check out their website at www. unishanoi.org

The 2012 Song Hong Races, organized by Hanoi’s Red River Runners, proved to be a great success raising a whopping VND105 million for children’s charity Blue Dragon. On the day, more than 300 runners took part in fun runs, 5km, 10km and half marathon races. Thanks to the support of many community actors, volunteers, sponsors and participants whose efforts will directly benefit one of Hanoi’s most vital charities, the funds go toward Blue Dragon’s Free Lunch Program to provide free nutritious lunches to kids in need. The next event is tentatively scheduled for December 2013. For more details on the funds raised, event photos and all other information, jog on to the Red River Runners website at www. redriverrunners.com

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In the Papers In the Papers

The Best of the VietnameSe Press

New Japanese Hotel Chain Japanese hotel chain, Toyoko Inn, introduced its ambitious plan to build 100 starred hotels in Vietnam at a seminar in Hanoi last month. Nishida Norimasa, President and also founder of Toyoko Inn, said he believes that the project would be successful as in the long-term Vietnam’s economy will improve from its present low ebb. Vice President of the Vietnam Chamber of Commerce and Industry Doan Duy Khuong expressed hopes that the project, once completed, will contribute to boosting the two countries’ tourism and investment cooperation, promoting Vietnam’s image overseas. Japan now ranks third among 84 countries and territories investing in Vietnam in terms of registered capital and first in terms of the amount of disbursed capital.

iPhone Stunner The Civil Aviation Administration of Vietnam (CAAV) has ordered all local airport authorities to stop iPhone stun guns from being brought onto flights to ensure passenger and staff safety. Stun guns, which are electrical self-defense devices that use high amounts of voltage to stop an attacker, have recently been designed in the shape of an iPhone, making them difficult to detect, CAAV said. For safety reasons, it has requested airport security units to strengthen the examination of passenger luggage in an effort to detect iPhone stun guns and prevent them from being brought onto planes and into the country. If such devices, costing VND2.9 million ($US140) are brought onto planes, they could pose a danger to passengers and threaten flight safety, the agency warns. The device was recently launched on the international market and is now offered for sale online by US-based Yellow Jacket, which manufactures the product, the agency said. As its name implies, the Yellow Jacket iPhone Stun Gun case protects your iPhone and has a built in stun gun feature. According to The Guardian in the UK, the stun gun case can take down an adult male.

Google Challenges Apple with High-End Laptop Google unveiled a touchscreen notebook computer designed for high-end users, throwing down the gauntlet to Apple and its MacBooks. Google said its Chromebook Pixel computers, which blend tablet and laptop technology, boast heavyweight Intel chips and screens tailored for rich graphics. They were released

Hanoi Mum Uncovers French Goat Milk scam

Teak Leaves Boom in Dong Nai A large number of people living in the southern province of Dong Nai have rushed to collect dry teak leaves in the forest between Dinh Quan and Tan Phu districts to sell to traders, a district official confirmed. The number of “collectors” has been increasing rapidly and they have even divided themselves into groups of up to 30 people, he added. “We are paid VND110,000 (US$5.26) a day if we manage to collect 50 kilograms of leaves,” said Le Quang Thoai, one of the collectors. Most of the leaf hunters have flocked to the 150-hectare teak forest managed by the La Nga Agriculture Seed Center. The leaves were then brought to a secret facility in the district for packaging. Locals said they only collected the leaves and sold them to traders. They do not know who the buyers are and what they plan to do with the leaves. However, it was later revealed that the leaves are being collected for a company in Ho Chi Minh City, which will use them to produce fertiliser.

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A Hanoi mother from Tay Ho District bought 12 cans of Danlait goat milk from the Manh Cam Co Ltd, based in Thanh Xuan District. After using seven she began to realise something was wrong with the product which costs VND400,000 for a 400g can. Cao Ngan Ha posted on lamchame.com, an online forum for local parents, providing proof that the product is not authentic goat milk, and not even French, as advertised. The post caused a storm as other mothers also claimed that their kids also lost weight and had slow growth while using Danlait. The importer, Manh Cam Co, eventually joined the forum discussion by creating a post full of scanned photos of what it said are necessary papers to prove the product’s validity. Danlait goat milk is said to be imported in full cans from France, and is manufactured by FIT, “one of the leading goat milk producers in the EU,” according to Manh Cam’s website (manhcam.com.vn). The company also includes a link to what it claims is FIT’s website, www.danlait.fr. However, the website’s admin session has a

last month in the US and the UK priced from VND27 million (US$1,299). “People will give up a MacBook Air for this,” Google Chrome senior vice president Sundar Pichai said. The newly unveiled version can connect online with wireless hot-spot technology or cables.

Air Mekong in Shutdown Vietnamese interface and several photos displayed there have a file name in Vietnamese, suggesting that this was not the official website. Following intensive research, it was discovered that FIT is in fact a small company that cooperates with a small group in France to produce goat milk, rather than a “European group”.

Air Mekong offered its last service on Feb. 28 before suspension of operations for a restructuring, the private carrier announced. The airliner currently operates a fleet of four, 90-seat Bombardier CRJ900 aircraft made in Canada, and will return them to US-based Sky West after the last flight, Air Mekong said. Sky West had leased the planes to Air Mekong. Air Mekong, which launched in October 2010, is the third

privately-owned carrier in Vietnam, after VietjetAir and Indochina Airlines, whose license was cancelled in late 2010. The suspension was fully expected, as Air Mekong has registered no flights with the Civil Aviation Administration of Vietnam after Feb. 28, said CAAV deputy head Vo Huy Cuong. The airliner, funded by the BIM Group, is on the verge of following Indochina Airlines in becoming the country’s second private carrier to shut down due to constant steep losses.

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March CALENDAR MON

TUE

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhanoi.com by no later than Mar. 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

WED

THU

FRI

11 hanoi deathfest. 5.30pm @ Hanoi Rock City (hanoirockcity. com)

passover seder. 6pm @ Chabad House (jewishvietnam. com)

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buddy love unplugged. 8.30pm @ Panacea Café (panaceacafe. webs.com)

social bike ride around west lake. 6.30am @ Hanoi Bicycle Collective (thbc.vn)

gaellic football with Viet Celt Ladies (vietcelts.com)

Breaking stereotypes talk show @ National University

PulpFusion. 9pm @ Fat Cat. See The Buzz on page 13

Spring Equinox Harvest Dinner @ Hanoi Social Club. See The Buzz on page 13

l'enfant d'en haut, with subtitles. 8pm @ L'Espace (ifhanoi-lespace.com)

27 The French Party. 9pm @ Fat Cat. See The Buzz on page 13

Lap loe installation opens. 6.30pm @ Goethe Institut. See The Exhibitionist on page 11

open jam session. 7pm @ Tea Talk (teatalkvietnam. com)

ONe man nation @ CAMA ATK. See Big 5 on page 9

onion cellar presents 2 efterklang films. 7.30pm @ Hanoi Bicycle Collective (thbc.vn)

INTERNATIONAL WOMeN’s DAY. Celebrate with lunch @ Press Club. See The Buzz on page 15

argentine tango. 8pm @ Xichlo Café (xichlocafe.com)

7777 dating. 7pm @ Duc de Hanoi (email davidinvitation@ gmail.com)

SAT Soil and “pimp” sessions @ Van Ho Exhibition Center (cama-atk.com)

World music Sundays: Phuong Dang. 2pm @ Hanoi Bicyble Collective. See Big 5 on page 9

4th Interschool Chess Tournament. 9am @ Singapore International School. See The Buzz on page 15

cs hanoi language exchange. 4pm @ Half Man Half Noodle (halfmanhalfnoodle.com)

gypsy campfire @ Hanoi Social Club (facebook.com/ thehanoisocialclub)

tay ho weekend market @ ASVELIS (asvelis.com)

World music Sundays: Hi Jinks. 2pm @ Hanoi Bicycle Collective. See Big 5 on page 9

time of mime @ Youth Theatre. See The Exhibitionist on page 11

CAGE exhibition OPENS @ Art Café. See The Exhibitionist on page 11

Fat Cat's 2nd anniversary. 9pm @ Fat Cat. See The Buzz on page 13

addiction band. 8.30pm @ My Way Beer House (myway.com.vn)

SUN

Hanoi Bicycle Collective's 1st Anniversary. All day from 9am @ Hanoi Bicycle Collective. See Big 5 on page 9

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SCENE

There might not have been many folk in town, but there were still options for those looking to get a date drunk on two-for-one cocktails and European house music

photos by nguyen bao ngoc

OVER

Fat Cat Valentine’s party

Positive Mass Almost 100 avid bikers grouped together - the cyclist version, not the guys on Harleys - to take on the streets around Ho Guom and beyond at the monthly Positive Mass

Photos by nguyen bao ngoc photos by khong ten

Cabaret night at L’espace Melodic French and Vietnamese musicians came together for L’Espace’s monthly cabaret night, more twee than your grandfather’s tweed

Photos provided by L’espace

Tet Eve For those not making the trek to the countryside or beyond, the Tet Eve celebrations went ahead regardless. The lake area was pedestrianised and lit up by fireworks, helium balloons and people. All demonstrating that Hanoi doesn’t completely close down for Tet

photos provided by pots n pans

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Insider

the teacher / chula / the phu quoc dog / saigon Photo by aaron joel santos

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The Many Faces of Hanoi

The Teacher The daughter of an artist, now in her 80s, Vietnamese language teacher Co Nhan is somewhat of a local celebrity. Words by Kaitlin Rees. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

heard Co Nhan before I met her. “Mind your head,” was the first sentence called down from where she waited on the second floor of her home. Her home, my Vietnamese language classroom, is a snug two-floor space in the back of an alley off Hang Ga and ducking is required to ascend the stairs. When I arrived that day, as with the many days that have followed, Co Nhan was reading at her desk with a pile of yarn nearby. I don’t remember what she was wearing, but it was without a doubt something that made me a bit envious, probably multiple layers of dark purple floral prints, a black velvet jacket, a handmade head scarf, bright red nail polish. For me, it is impossible not to fall in love with tough old ladies who look you in the eye and allow amused smiles to surface. Co Nhan is 80 years old, but there is nothing in her demeanor that gives away her age. Despite living through some of the country’s worst conditions and experiencing the gamut of post-war struggles, Co Nhan makes a point of enjoying her life. “If I started to worry about my life, about the past, I would be worrying for a long time.”

is accustomed. As the oldest of 12 siblings, the brunt of cooking, cleaning, sewing clothes, drying off tears, and overseeing the schoolwork of six sisters and five brothers fell on her. Though it was a hectic household, Co Nhan describes her family during her childhood as being quite fortunate. “My father was a strange man, very original,” she recalls. As a visionary artist, he moved the entire family, including both his wives, to

“Despite living through some of the country’s worst conditions and experiencing the gamut of post-war struggles, Co Nhan makes a point of enjoying her life”

Breathing Space What she does instead of worry, and why she seems so young, could probably fill this entire magazine with stories. A summary: three days a week she teaches English, four days a week she teaches Vietnamese, one day a week she teaches French. On Mondays she swims (because they change the pool water on Sundays). On Tuesday and Thursday morning she goes ballroom dancing at a nearby club, partnering with one of the young male staff. She knits clothes for herself and her friend’s grandchildren, she reads, plays the piano, and is working on a book of memoirs. The active life is one to which Co Nhan

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Ba Vi Mountain to live in isolation for three years in 1945. When the family returned to Hanoi, her father’s furniture business began to boom, and Co Nhan lived a life of luxury for a little while. Today Co Nhan has family all around the world; in Moscow, Paris, Australia and the United States working as translators, painters and pianists. But along with six of her siblings, she has stayed an “authentic Hanoian”. For this reason, she appears to be somewhat of a celebrity while walking down the streets of her neighborhood. From her daily pho stand on Hang Hom, for example, I ask her about how many people she usually

runs into that she knows. “How can I count? Maybe I’m special because I’ve lived in this district for a long time. I can contact people very easily. If anyone needs my help, I do what I can do.”

Strong Ties This was the attitude with which Co Nhan started teaching Vietnamese in 1990 while still working at VNA as a translator. “There were foreigners working here and they needed to know Vietnamese at that time.” Co Nhan will say that she doesn’t just teach Vietnamese though. According to her, one cannot learn a language without learning about the culture, the ways of thinking. Along with her language lessons, she would offer cooking lessons as well as tie-in history and anecdotes of her life, which she is still doing today. “Now I continue to teach just for fun. If I didn’t have contact with others, life would be so dull.” Thanks to this aversion to dullness, Co Nhan has guided countless students to access the impenetrable wall that the Vietnamese language can first appear to be. A common teaching tool that she uses is a breakdown of idioms and common sayings that come up during a lesson. One such saying recently surfaced when I asked about the standard customs of the approaching holiday. Me: “What do people usually do during Tet?” // “An Tet nguoi Vietnam thuong lam gi?” Co Nhan: “Mua day buoc minh”// “Buy a rope and tie it around themselves.” In a response that contains an introduction of the vocabulary for “rope” and “to tie”, Co Nhan reveals much about herself and her relationship to the environment around her. After an explanation of the obligatory practices and superstitions that are entwined with daily life in Vietnam, she adds, “But I don’t like to buy the rope, so I don’t.”

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Q&A

¡Chula, Que Bueno! Full of colour and bursting with energy, the world of Chula is a beautiful one. Much more than just a fashion brand, Chula is known for dresses that are pieces of art as well as regular events. Now they have a new range of furniture in the pipeline. Rose Arnold talks to Diego Cortizas and Laura Fontan, the husband and wife team behind it all. What is Chula about? Diego: Chula is for women who want to express something, not just a beautiful model wearing a beautiful dress. We are always really proud when a customer tells us they were in Tokyo or New York, or somewhere, and people stopped them to talk about their dress. Laura: I think sometimes that to have something very glamorous pushes people away, it makes you not approachable. With a Chula dress it is the start of a conversation. It is about a story, a connection. Diego: In some way Chula is always a little naïve, it is playful. Chula is about classic things, good material, classic cuts, but at the same time with a funny idea, with a concept.

you can wear, I think, in 20 years. I think working with trends can make you feel very depressed, there is no true meaning. Diego: Yes, fashion is one of the industries, along with technology, where you see how much people consume. I try to change this concept in our clients. And we avoid the chain production element. Here, no two dresses are the same. It is important that it involves us creatively. All the team, not just us, they make one dress from beginning to end, they don’t just do the same thing over and over. Every dress is new energy. Laura: And I think people who buy Chula feel a special relationship with the clothes, they feel a connection, it is part of their story.

What is it like to combine living and SOME OF THE DRESS CONCEPTS HAVE INCLUDED ENVIRONMENTAL THEMES. HOW working in the same space, as well IMPORTANT IS SUSTAINABILITY TO YOU? as customers coming here? Laura: My mother used to have maybe four new dresses a year but they were well cut — you keep them for many years. It is not like now when clothes are so disposable. Buy, buy and throw away. Chula doesn’t go out of fashion quickly, there are dresses

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Laura: It was always shared space. The house has an altar in the middle, we share this room with our landlord, so that makes our relationship with the landlord like a family. And we have all our workers here. At lunchtime there are 20 people eating. Then

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“We are spoilt in Vietnam with the children. They have a very special life, they have experience of artists, and Chula is an open house so they meet many people” we opened up the shop. It made it really complete and fun. But when our family comes from Spain, we realise they are a little bit shocked sometimes. Diego: We had relatives here and somebody appeared, I don’t know, a neighbour or someone and our family was like: “Woah! There is somebody in the house!” Laura: In Spain, private is really like, private. Whereas we realise for us that no, private is not really important.

And you also opened up the space for evening events? Diego: Yes, we started by chance because a painter friend said to us, this space is very nice, why don’t you do an exhibition? We invited some friends, it started small but we’ve done more and more events. Mixing art and photography and fashion and music. Laura: We are really happy about this, we are enjoying the space and sharing with many people. It is a pleasure to have beautiful paintings, fantastic musicians, our dresses. We mix all these different people together; customers, artists, friends. Chula nights are to know more people, to have more inspiration.

What is it like raising your family here, away from your home country? Diego: We are spoilt in Vietnam with the children. They have a very special life, they have experience of artists, and Chula is an open house so they meet many people. Laura: And here they can feel independent, Hanoi is a very open place. The older children have their own bicycles, they can go to the street, play with the neighbours, go to the supermarket. In Spain we don’t have that freedom any more. Diego: In some ways for us, Hanoi feels like Spain in the 1970s. But at the same time, Spain is important, we visit often, we like that they keep their roots. Laura: Yes, they have that, a very strong Spanish feeling, they take the best of both worlds, Vietnam and Spain.

How has Hanoi changed since you arrived in 2004? Diego: Some people who live here for a long time complain about the city changing, oof, the traffic, you know? But there are some very exciting things, positive changes. Like West Lake. Laura: When we arrived here the city had its back to West Lake, the city was the part close to Truc Bach. Diego: Sometimes you would come to a house here and you would realise that in the garden you can see the lake. It was a private lake for privileged people. Laura: But now the little bars, the people cycling, it is really fantastic. It really changes the city. It is a big open space and the people enjoy that. And also, in Hanoi, the life for young people, for art and culture, I think in the last two years it is exploding. Diego: We are very lucky to be here in this moment.

What are your plans for Chula? Laura: We would like to make more collections around places that we love; to study countries that we love, to study the culture. We want to do something special abroad, a Japan collection perhaps. Diego: We have just launched Chula Place, a line of furniture. We want to combine many of the things from Chula, using things we find in Vietnam, handmade. A sense of humour but of course it is furniture. Furniture is a bit more conservative. You can be more risky with buying a dress. And we want to make accessories and things for the home. We are taking our time, we want to link with our other things but to make it new and exciting. If we make a notebook, it should not be just translating the circles from the dresses to the notebook; it should be a really, really interesting notebook. The Chula showroom is located on West Lake at 4, Ngo 416, Nhach 22, Lac Long Quan. www. chula.es This interview has been edited and condensed

Extended Feature

The Phu Quoc Dog: A Renaissance The hunting dog coming from Vietnam’s largest island maintains a mythical status. It has been close to extinction on a number of occasions yet this feisty ridgeback has clawed and scratched its way through the centuries. Derek Milroy decided to find out more about this phenomenal creature that is on its way to being recognized as Vietnam’s national dog. Photos by Adam Astley

hunter by nature, rivals of this ridgeback cower in fear when they see the erect whorls on its back and its short, menacing thin hair. Not only does the Phu Quoc dog look brave and strong, it is a supreme being. Despite some similar features to comedy cartoon character Scooby Doo, the superhero of the Vietnamese dog world can swim, hunt and even climb trees. It’s no wonder that when people come across Vietnam’s most revered breed they become intrigued.

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The earliest non-Vietnamese sighting of the Phu Quoc dog occurred in the late 19th century when French medical student Fernand Doceul witnessed a Phu Quoc bitch making a predatory kill on a deer far superior in size — the dog weighs on average 15 to 20 kilos. He was astonished to see the athletic animal forcing the deer into the water before swimming after it and attacking its neck. The end was a foregone conclusion. Some dogs were taken to Europe at the

end of 19th century by the French, with two individuals named Xoai (Mango, a boy) and Chuoi (Banana, a girl) winning a dog show in Lille, France. They were born in 1892 and owned by Gaston Helouin who lived in Helfaut, Pas-de-Calais, northern France. Xoai and Chuoi also took part in the Universal Dog show held in Anvers, Belgium in July, 1894. Around the same time, cynologist (dog expert) Count Henry de Bylandt recorded the standard of the Phu Quoc Dog in his

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Rebirth The formation of the VKA started a nationwide campaign to preserve and recover the reputation of the Phu Quoc dog. In 2005, a group of dog fanciers in Vietnam met on a social network forum and floated the idea of a club for dog lovers. The group’s main target was the Phu Quoc. By the end of 2006 the group met overseas Vietnamese Du Thanh Khiem, who was living in Belgium and was a big player in the dog world in both Europe and the U.S. He knew mostly everything there was to know about the Phu Quoc and had researched it for decades. He intended to bring the dog to Belgium in the 1980s but was unsuccessful — not that it dented his passion. He then set out on the necessary path for a cynological national organization in Vietnam and smoothed the way for the Phu Quoc to recover its lost reputation. In July 2007 Khiem held seminars in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City where he lectured to the group and others interested in the dog, and shared his desire to bring the Phu Quoc into the international spotlight to celebrate the centenary of the establishment of Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), or World Canine Organisation. The group enlisted the support of businessman Pham Le Quan and drummer Cao Minh Kim Qui and on Feb. 13, 2008 the decision to establish Vietnam Kennel Association (VKA) was issued and approved a year later by the Minister of Home Affairs. A month after the official launch in July 2009, VKA established the Phu Quoc dog Standard Committee to research and construct the Phu Quoc dog breed standard. Khiem became its vice president. In the first VKA dog show in December 2009, Phu Quoc dogs took part and the breed won the award of Reserve Best in Show to become Vietnam’s first champion before joining the World Champion Dog Show in Paris, France in July 2011. It is estimated there are between 3,000 and 5,000 Phu Quocs nationwide.

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book, Les Races de Chiens (Dogs of All Nations), which covered 316 breeds.

A Miracle of Nature These days this feisty canine is being championed by breeders the length and breadth of Vietnam. Recent dog shows have catapulted the Phu Quoc into the spotlight. One man who has been seduced by the animal is Vietnam Kennel Association (VKA) officer Pham Hung, who has been breeding it since 2005 — having only heard about the dog just after the Millenium. He insists its reputation of having webbed feet is not completely true, but its athletic instincts are unique, which is what makes it a remarkable being. “The Phu Quoc is a hunting dog which has the characteristics of a primitive or wild dog,” Hung explains. “It has been bred by man for a long time now, but it is not a danger to humans. It can be aggressive towards other animals if they have not been trained to be social to other dogs or animals.” There is more to its reputation as a hunter than meets the eye, Hung says: “Its hunting instinct is very strong. Despite it living outside in its natural environment for a number of generations, city-born litters like to hunt small prey such as rats, cats and small reptiles. It is the type of dog you cannot keep in a small living space as it is alert and very active. Its reputation as a good swimmer is right, sometimes it even catches fish.” However, some things about the Phu Quoc that meet the eye are deceptive. “The ‘webbed feet’ term is not completely correct,” continues Hung. “But the skin between its toes is particular for this breed and is more developed than other breeds. In normal conditions, the toes are closed tightly and arched, but when it stands in the mud or a wet floor, its feet spread widely and the toes straighten to increase the contact area of the feet to the floor. So, [the paws] looks like webbed feet.” Hung insists Vietnam is a dog-loving nation, despite the now frowned-upon culture of eating man’s best friend in hideaway restaurants around the country. However, he thinks that the new generation has a different attitude towards our little and large canine friends. “Even though many people in Vietnam eat

dog,” he explains, “many people consider [the canine] as their closest friend, or a member of their family. We’re trying to encourage others to look at the connection between the people and the most loyal of friends, especially the valued dog breeds of Vietnam.”

Son of the Jackal? Its name tells you its birthplace — with the breed coming from Phu Quoc Island, off Kien Giang Province — but the dog’s origin is still a controversial topic. It wouldn’t be Vietnam without a folk legend recounting a mythical descent — that the breed is a cross between the Vietnamese Fu-dog and jackals living on the island, with the Fu-dog passing the ridge in its back onto the Phu Quoc. Some people say it is a crossbreed of native dog and wild dog, or that it originates from a country with ridgeback dogs. However, there is general agreement that it was bred with wild dogs on the island. Over a century ago, zoologist Emile Oustalet even thought that it could be a descendent of the Australian dingo, which was domesticated before being turned back to the wild. Yet unlike the dingo, the Phu Quoc is harmless to humans.

“Hung says Vietnam is a dog-loving nation, despite the now frowned-upon culture of eating man’s best friend in hideaway restaurants around the country”

A Phu Quoc in the Family VKA member Bui Quoc Viet, who is based in Tien Giang Province, admitted his life changed when his family received a strange-looking dog from Phu Quoc Island in 1986. “We were pretty fascinated with this dog as we had never seen anything like it before,” he says. “He looked like a greyhound with a bigger head and body. But it’s fair to say this dog awakened something in me. What I do find interesting is how sociable the dog can be and it can live with most animals if it’s reared with them from an early age.” Of course, the Phu Quoc’s unsociable aspects fascinate Viet as well. “Due to the fact that it can catch fish and small animals, it can live in the wild and survive alone,” he says. “With most breeds of dogs it is tough to get a pure breed. With the Phu Quoc you know what you are getting, as due to the isolation of the island from the mainland, it has not crossed with other breeds for a long time.”

Breeding Since the Phu Quoc dog comes from the wild it finds it hard to adapt to a life of dependency on humans, especially when living on the mainland where the surroundings, food and water are far different from its own environment. In an open environment, pregnant Phu Quoc bitches dig ‘caves’ before giving birth to their litter. It does not respond well to being kept in cages and is prone to infections and unusual illnesses, which is why eight out of ten die young. As a result, some breeders have drawn up ways to successfully tackle these problems. First, the dogs are vaccinated before leaving the island to prevent typical mainland illnesses; secondly, they bring soil and water from the island to the mainland, feeding the animals lean meat and clean water. The Phu Quoc is an expensive breed, priced at VND3 to VND5 million per puppy from the island and VND5 to VND10 million for a two to three-month-old dog from mainland breeders. Those with special features can be sold for VND30 million or more.

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N O G I SA

It’s all too easy to sit pretty in your back alley apartment, eating your steamy noodles and sipping on the self-satisfaction that your city is the best there is in Vietnam. One needs to occasionally crack open the dark rooms of geographical elitism to illuminate the possibility that maybe another city is also wonderful. A city swap of sorts, this month we bring you Saigon from our Saigon staff. We bring you the usual suspects of a travel piece: where to eat, where to drink, where to be active, where to find respite from the city. But we also address a few points of concern beyond those: what’s going on with the music scene, who are the people making waves in the city, where are the places that even Douglas Pyper doesn’t already know about. The differences between the north and the south are striking for how small the country seems at times. So we hope that this month’s profile of Saigon offers some inspiration for a visit down south, to see with your own eyes how much Ho Chi Minh City has to offer.

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n A : y t i C h n i M i h C Ho w e i V s ’ r e Insid What makes Saigon tick? We asked our editorial team down south to give us some insight. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos Vegging Out

The Best Restaurant in Saigon

Francis Xavier, Staff Reporter

Nick Ross, Chief Editor

A few years ago if you were talking about following a plant-based, tofu-influenced diet, people in Saigon would probably have thought you were either crazy or an extreme Buddhist. But not now. In a Saigon restaurant landscape increasingly made up of fast food joints, kids are getting fatter, and people are starting to question if the western diet, which they once thought was better for them, is really better for them (yes, the Saigonese really think that way). The younger generation, particularly, has started feeling like they should be more aware of what they eat. They want to be healthier — and some feel the answer is to go back to their Asian roots, and the vegetarian diet. So, they try not eating meat on the 1st and 15th of the lunar month, like Buddhists, or skip a few meat meals a month to try to be healthier. Last year a girl in Dalat tried to promote the benefits of the vegan diet by wearing a dress made of lettuce. Everybody has their own point of view. But, after seeing my Facebook newsfeed fill up with posts about Burger King and KFC,

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I’m glad that there are some Vietnamese out there not following what’s considered “trendy” in Saigon, but really putting thought into what they’re eating. The increasing number of vegetarians in Ho Chi Minh City has led to many newlyopened vegan restaurants brandishing a “healthy food” tag. There are now over 80 such eateries in the city. Which shows that vegetarianism is no longer seen as an exclusively Buddhist phenomenon here, but more of a lifestyle choice. Informational flyers about vegetable superfoods have been handed out, and more whole grain brown rice is sold. So, while some parents are still taking their kids to Pizza Hut every weekend as a treat, and McDonald’s is coming to Vietnam in the near future, there are a growing number of Saigonese who are not found standing in line for their dose of Burger King and Starbucks. For a full list of vegetarian and vegan restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City, go to www.happycow.net/ asia/vietnam

It was at a dim sum dinner at Kabin on New Year’s Day that the invariable question arose about the Saigon dining scene. What’s the best restaurant in this city? My initial response was Square One in the Park Hyatt and Shri atop the Centec Tower. But quickly I realised my error. Not that I’d been wrong in my judgement — both restaurants do excel in their own particular chosen field. Rather, my consideration of what is the best restaurant in this city was far too narrow. I was focusing my attention solely on pan-international fare, the type you’d expect to find in top restaurants in Australia, the US, the UK, Canada, Hong Kong and Singapore. A visit to the Mediterranean-influenced Trois Gourmands the following Saturday with the same group of friends exemplified my mistake. The meal was phenomenal. Even our dining colleagues, of whom half were French, were impressed at the quality of the Gallic fare, regardless of every dish seeming to come infused with the taste of truffle. And that is the problem with Ho Chi Minh City. With so much cuisine to choose from,

coming from so many different influences, no one restaurant can truly be said to be the best. This is a city obsessed with eating and drinking. It shows. Take the Indian dining scene. For Southern Indian fare go to Saigon Indian. For panIndian, hit Ganesh or Baba’s Kitchen. For the set lunch, Tandoor, and for kebabs, Ashoka. And that’s just the start. There are over 180 Japanese restaurants in this city. Korean cuisine is everywhere and on the Chinese front there’s Kabin, Tan Hai Van, Ocean Palace… The list goes on. If that makes for a hard choice, then the Vietnamese food scene is even more complex. A recent meal at the air-conditioned, lime green and white Wrap & Roll, a Hueinfluenced chain, moved it high up in my estimation. I am also a fan of Hoa Tuc, May and Cuc Gach Quan. For Indochine elegance, there’s only one spot, Temple Club. And for Hue-style street food, Nam Giao is my favourite. But don’t take my word for it. This is just my opinion. There are just too many options in this city.

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Escaping the Culture of Congestion

Beating the Blues

Saigon Streetlife

Ed Weinberg, Deputy Editor

Derek Milroy, Features Editor

Alexandre Garel, Photo Editor

In his 1978 book Delirious New York, Rem Koolhaas put forth the questionable thesis that “Manhattanism” was a miracle that New York had unconsciously planned. Its “culture of congestion”, Koolhaas explained with excited, dadaesque logic, was what the city had been building towards the whole time, the constant horn-honking the sound of jubilation and triumph. There are those in Ho Chi Minh City who would beg to differ, and I’m one of them. I feel the same pinched nerves passing through a rush hour traffic circle as I felt commuter train-catching in New York, the same relief in escaping the typical flow of workday life. So I try to escape often. I have some favourite spots, which — like most things in this city — involve drinking. In order to hit the city’s best roofdeck at Chill Skybar, you have to travel 26 steep floors up the AB Tower. But from there, gazing down, the city’s boulevard chaos almost seems to make sense, like

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looking at one of those mosaic photos of wild chickens that from a certain distance resemble Britney Spears. Duc Vuong Hotel’s 8th floor terrace has a similar effect, except the wild chickens seem larger and the beers cheaper. There are other removed spots tucked around the city, alley quan nhaus where the emphasis is on relaxed conversation and, of course, drinking. There are the famous plastic chairs on Bui Vien, which provide a front seat to the isolated biome of Pham Ngu Lao. Mong Footbridge is nice for hearing the river underneath, at least until it gets crowded and everyone gets sent home. But these are simply plasters on a migraine, and every now and then I need a breath of country air and hop on my bike to head out of Saigon’s downtown limits. And, if I time my return just right, there’s a moment cresting the Phu My Bridge, with the sun low in the sky, where the city I’m heading towards looks almost welcoming.

Tet is over, with almost 300-odd days before the next holiday season begins. All meaning that those blues and the desire for some respite from the big city may appear surprisingly soon, and when you least expect it. But don’t let it get you down — head to your local park. Saigon has some great little forest fillers including the September 23 Park downtown, but one cordoned off area of greenery that in particular has helped me through a rough patch and even relocated me to find my destiny is Gia Dinh Park in Phu Nhuan. The perfect place for some solitary contemplation, it is huge. Located on both sides of Hoang Minh Giam, near Tan Son Nhat Airport, on one end is the sports area with a large space and facilities for walking, jogging, dancing and martial arts. The other part now hosts a revamped playground and entertainment area for kids and parents alike. It is also a popular rendezvous spot with newly-wed couples making their

wedding albums. Keen photographers hang around, shooting through oversized lenses under the abundant shade of the many trees. With facilities and park-style manicured grass, and flower beds aplenty, normally that would be enough for even the most avid of park-goers. But I particularly love the so-called “out of bounds” area, the section of greenery lying unattended by the local wardens. Set out back with huge, French-era planted trees to shelter from the sun or rain, here you can barely hear the traffic. The thing I love about parks is doing nothing. Just being there is the beauty of it. There is nothing better than sitting under a tree alone or with a loved one, listening to some music, reading a book, people watching or just taking it all in and realising that life is not all that bad after all. It’s escape, something desperately needed in the large city, especially in a place of never-ending frenetic activity.

What makes Saigon special for me is the weather and the way the heat, the tropical climate, together with the sun and rain affects the lives of the people. Despite the growing usage of air-conditioning and the sometime desperate scramble to shelter amid that internal, artificial cold, life in this city is focused on the outdoors. And it is that life that for me makes Saigon unique, setting it apart from elsewhere. The photos on the following page were taken over the past few months and track the street life of this city.

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s e r u t c i P n i n o g i Sa

Aaron Joel Santos Photo Editor, Word Ha Noi

Alexandre Garel Photo Editor, Word HCMC

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r e b o S n o g Sai Ho Chi Minh City is obsessed with eating and drinking. Here’s what Ed Weinberg does when he’s off the booze

o Chi Minh City has an impressive number of options for drinking. Everyone from classy diners to corner sitters imbibes on a pretty regular basis, and those taking a break often find themselves out of the loop. Saigon might not have a backpacker parade of beer vests roaming its tourist strip like in Bangkok, but the connection with drinking runs pretty deep. But Ho Chi Minh City has more to offer — even past the totemic War Remnants Museum and Cu Chi tunnels. Past all the late-night bravado there’s a quirky city with plenty to do during Vietnamese waking hours. If you find yourself damning the morning alarm clock chickens next door or the man reaching into the seventh octave to sing to you about his peanuts or banh mi, you’re missing out on a good part of the city. There’s the active side of Saigon, some wholesome nightlife and there’s some weird weirdness. Sure, most of the people poolside at Van Thanh Tourist Park (48/10 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh) will be working off hangovers, but that doesn’t mean you have to be.

Get Active Regardless of your sensibilities, Saigon’s got an activity for you. There are some kooky ones — see lawn sledding below — and some serious ones, like the rougher football and rugby leagues. It’s the flipside to Saigon’s nightlife, although certain groups like the Saigon Hash House Harriers (www.saigonhash.com) — a frat-like group of runners that gathers every Sunday for a short run and a long drinking session (they make people drink from their shoes!) — have been known to blur the lines. Gathering every Monday and Wednesday, not great nights for drinking anyway, Saigon Dodgeball (www.saigondodgeball.org) usually attracts around 50 fun expats and locals to the Phan Dinh Phung Sports Complex at 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3. There aren’t many better ways to get acquainted with strangers

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than by hitting them in the face with a ball, saying sorry, then doing it again. The only problem with these new friends is they like to drink after. As the sports complex is closing, hitting the climbing wall (X-Rock Climbing, www.xrockclimbing.com) isn’t an option. And this is usually where the party ends for non-drinkers. But tonight, let’s step out.

Saigon by Night The night market at Ben Thanh features a good range of things, but is somewhat substandard compared to the rest of Southeast Asia. What isn’t substandard is the red snapper at Hai Lua, a large food stall on the north side of the market. Grilled and flecked with sea salt, lime and mint, it’s an authentic eating experience, one that mixes well with the kitchen commotion, the night air and the bikes puttering by. It’s one of those spots that shows Saigon’s beauty, away from the chaotic daytime where it can sometimes be obscured. And, while eating fish and manicures might not seem like the perfect combination, it is slap bang opposite Kem Nghia (16-18 Phan Boi Chau, Q1) giving you the chance to try out one of the other things Saigon is best known for, its beauty and nail salons. Here is one of its prime exponents. A good amount of nighttime beauty of a different sort can be found at Cau Mong, a pedestrian footbridge that overhangs the Saigon River tributary separating District 1 and District 4. Here and by the adjoining riverfront, couples stare into the shimmering distance as drink-sellers court them. Next up is the flower market. Ho Thi Ky Flower Market (Ho Thi Ky, Q10) is open from 11pm to 6am, with a range of roses, orchids, lotuses, sunflowers and other such petal-covered paraphernalia imported from all over Vietnam and Japan, Thailand and China. Here 10 roses will only cost VND30,000 — quite a bit cheaper than what the street beer dudes are paying the flower girls on Bui Vien. Ho Thi Ky is located in Saigon’s equivalent to Little Phnom Penh. So,

it’s a good place to try a Khmer export to Vietnam — hu tieu nam vang (Chinese pork noodle soup with shrimp, liver and egg). Try Quan Trung Thuy at no. 107.

Weird Weirdness Suoi Tien (www.suoitien.com) is apparently the largest Buddhist theme park in the world — it might in fact be the only one. Right off the Hanoi Highway in District 9, a mighty god-faced mountain looks benevolently out on some water slides — a scene which prompted Vice Magazine to write: “The Vietnamese seem to have taken the idea of the amusement park and fed it LSD for, like, a gazillion years.” The fact that the mountain is actually a modern day depiction of Vua Hung, one of the founding fathers of Vietnam, is lost on them. And the fact that water slides and quad bike racing form some of the activities here is also often forgotten by people judging the place by its giant face. There is also a recently opened go-kart track here. Further up that same way is the lawn sledding and ostrich riding weird activity paradise, Mango Garden Resort (www. vuonxoai.com.vn). On the wrong side of political correctness, they serve up the likes of porcupine, a dish so regular it doesn’t even make their specials menu. It’s one of those questionable “ecological zones” — they also do a trade in ostrich meat right

outside of their ostrich conservatory. If you’re looking for something more low-key, maybe a stocked fishing pond where you can eat what you catch, then Thanh Da Island in Binh Thanh should be your destination. A number of large pools stocked with freshwater fish are available to anglers (we counted 19). And you may even discover smaller bodies of water containing the likes of giant prawns. For around VND100,000 an hour, you can rent a fishing rod and have your catch prepared for you when you’re through.

Buy a Soft Drink Saigon Outcast (www.saigonoutcast.com) is a mixed-use space in District 2, comprised of three shipping containers retrofitted to hold DJs and scrapped, reupholstered chairs. They hold movie nights, have a skate ramp in the corner open to all comers every night of the week, host workshops and every event they can work in. They believe in community, as their name would suggest if you’ve ever watched a movie about outcasts. I's a great place to get creative during daytime hours. At the beginning of March they held the Melting Pot Arts Festival, a weekend medley of art, music, dance, artsand-crafts as well as a pixel art workshop. They also run regular workshops you can try out, and all activities are free.

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s e l i f o Pr The Courtyard Noëlle Carr-Ellison tells Ed Weinberg about the roots of one of nighttime Saigon’s prime eating and drinking spots, The Courtyard

t’s the tenth anniversary today of the opening of the popular Mediterraneanstyle bistro and cafe, Au Parc (23 Han Thuyen, Q1), and co-founder Noëlle CarrEllison isn’t taking a break. Compared to her first year in business, when she was also working full-time as an advertising executive and pregnant with her first child, maybe it feels like one. And it’s two days from Tet, but she’s not just wrapping up loose ends. She’s talking about the place next door, whose formerly intractable land owner is now ready to talk rental, and which she thinks would be perfect for a courtyard/foot massage extension on Central Parc Banh Mi (7bis Han Thuyen, Q1). It’s something that’s gotten her excited, even as she tends to her ever-popular stable of restaurants, including the improvisational Vietnamese Hoa Tuc (of which she is an associate) and French bistro The Refinery — both in the courtyard at 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, on the former site of Saigon’s main opium manufacturing plant. Evidently the owner of the land on Han Thuyen, who recently built a wall between Noëlle’s place and his original construction French villa, has come around because the potential buyers of the property have pulled out after finding that the house is protected from demolition. In a way, this is also the story of The Refinery — but it’s also just another curveball that she’s had to deal with in her 18-year Saigon existence. “Because [Au Parc] was my first business here,” Noëlle explains, “I didn’t know what was going to happen. We signed for three years, we were quite happy with that. At

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the end of the three years, on the last month of the contract — which was going to be renewed as the owner was a nice guy — it got sold to an owner who was not such a nice [person]… and she said, ‘You need to move out, you’ve got a week.’ [This was] after three years of doing really good business.” In a way, this is also the story of Ho Chi Minh City’s volatile business landscape. A business does well, then gets the rug pulled out from under it. Noëlle found the courtyard, a mere stone’s throw from the Park Hyatt, and started preparing for a move. She was sure it would cripple any momentum Au Parc had. But then the owner agreed to let them stay for the transition period, at a cost of VND105 million (US$5,000) a month — more than quadruple the original lease agreement. They did it and eventually agreed to more reasonable terms. So rather than moving Au Parc she set up a French-style bistro, The Refinery, in the new location. The courtyard has so far been a safe haven, inviting other insightful international restobars in like Jaspa’s, Beirut and Vasco’s, as well as the wine shop Vino and more recent editions Blanchy Street and La Camargue. Its downtown location helps — for the past six-and-a-half years, business has been good. But, like many things in Saigon, it probably won’t last. “You know that courtyard will be torn down one day,” Noëlle says. “I’ve already seen horrible tower blocks on the ‘net of what’s supposedly going to go there.”

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The King of Entertainment Joshua Turner tells Ed Weinberg the gameplan

orn in Vietnam but raised in the UK, Joshua Turner is a man of many worlds. There are the obvious ones of a Viet Kieu, but others inform his personality in more subtle ways. His time on the England under-18s football team informs his competitiveness, and maybe his self-confidence. His oil industry family background pushes him towards something more creative. His accounting background gives him an understanding of the problems confronting music, as he attempts to get local artists Suboi and Thao Trang some real traction. His work on the Vietnamese Big Brother-type vote-off show House of Dreams gave him some perspective on what connects with a Vietnamese audience. “A lot of crying, a lot of emotion, that’s what made the thing a success.” With Saigon Sound System GM Rod Quinton, Josh helped bring the Coca-Cola Samsung Soundfest to Ho Chi Minh City last year, with a reported 50,000 people and 18 bands on the scene of the biggest music festival ever to be held in Vietnam. He tried to get Snoop when he was touring Bangkok. It’s been four-and-a-half years since he got started in entertainment here. There’s a TV show on the horizon, and a crowdsourcing thing he wants to try on it. He’ll pick four or five musicians, and give them 30 episodes to run through the script. He will tell them: “None of this depicts any of your lives.” He’ll try to engage the audience by offering investment in their favourites — if the music they support makes money, so will they. His next big move is taking rap star Suboi to Japan this year, then maybe Hollywood in 2014. “One international star is all we need,” Josh says. “In anything. Because Vietnam’s not got one in anything, in sport, in movies, in music. There isn’t one famous [contemporary] Vietnamese person in the whole world.” Except perhaps for Ngo Bao Chau, the Nobel-prize winning mathematician. Josh thinks it could be a landmark achievement not just for her, but for the whole music culture. “We are representing Vietnam when we go there,” he says. “So support us. It’s like the football team getting to the World Cup. My god — the whole country would be behind them.”

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? n o g i a S l a n i Orig Apparently the Saigon music scene is all about cover bands. Ed Weinberg tells a different story. Covers yes. A lack of originality? Not quite.

henever the Saigon music scene is discussed within the city, it’s usually framed in the negative:

Why can my cover band get shows but my real band can’t? Why aren’t there more places for original music? Why won’t people pay to see music? The potential of the city for supporting a quality scene never seems to get any closer; for each of the 10 original acts playing music in Ho Chi Minh City at any one time, it’s the thing that keeps them hopeful and yet disappoints them. As Maeve Meleady and Julien Masson of the subliminal folksters Freckled Gypsies (Julien also strums for the restrained and dubby reggae trio, Echo Monkeys) put it in a conversation with the Ho Chi Minh City edition, it’s like a doubleedged sword — a lack of new stimulus on the one hand, a lack of competition on the other. This is the story that I’ve written many times in piecemeal, writ large. Just to assure the doubters; there is a Saigon scene. Banana Project’s got the eclectic soul jams and Time Keeper’s got the teched-up post-rock. Sunless has the former Elephant 6 scenester who reads short, often nautically-themed stories mid-set, and Bicycle Thief’s got the funk. White Noize is on the vanguard of the Viet rockers, slowly moving in a more original direction — although their delivery is pretty original notwithstanding the lyrics. There’s the Vietnamese metal scene, which has got something of its own going. Now, what’s the problem?

The Audience Problem A double standard exists in the expat community, which should be a big driver of the original music scene. Many expats are willing to drop VND500,000 on a meal or VND200,000 on a cocktail in a swank place. Yet add a cover charge in a venue where there usually isn’t one or jack up the price of a beer to pay for the cost of a band, and they get catty. Yet they’ll still fork out VND150,000 on the door at Apo (Apocalypse Now) together with VND90,000 Tigers so they can enjoy the doof doof scene at the city’s longest running club. That’s just the cost of going out. As Tess Somerville, herself a

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singer-songwriter with an arcing, sharp voice and something soulful about her, says, “I’m willing to pay for music, because I play music and I understand, but I can understand how a tourist wouldn’t really want to.” She goes on, paraphrasing Julien once again. “People come here because they want services, not because they want cultural experiences. Many of the douchebag expats and tourists come to Vietnam so they can get taken care of, because everything’s so cheap, and they can get hot Asian chicks to rub their feet at night. They want a service, they want to be spoon-fed music that they already know.” Elle Odessa of the newly formed darkfolk duo Saigon Kiss nails it: “Here the population is so transitory. It takes a while for people to know your songs and like your songs and say, ‘I really want to go out on Friday night and hear their songs.’”

The Venue Carousel Check out one of the venues in the city that puts on original bands — deciBel, Mc’Sorley’s, Outcast or Geisha — and you’ll see some names you recognise. “We don’t have a lot of choice,” Ludovic Tran, co-owner of deciBel, explains. “We’re living in a city where there are no concerts at all. There’s K-Pop, there’s sh*tty DJs, we don’t have any music from the outside. We need new stuff.” This is one of the problems. Another is logistical — loud shows receive noise complaints the moment the clock hits 10pm. Every place on the list besides Geisha has to deal with this, and Geisha has another problem. Its stage is a level above the main room, overhanging it so that audienceband connection is difficult. Live shows can sometimes become no more than super-loud background music. We’re missing a venue like Hanoi Rock City — a big, music-specific venue that can give a full-volume experience. Perhaps Rod Quinton’s ultra-modern new space Q4 can become that venue, if there’s an audience to fill it.

promoters that brought Bob Dylan to town. But if you think they’re just in it for the stadiums, they’ve also brought over lesserknown electro-rockers Ratatat and many other acts, too. Rod is one of the guys in this game with the potential to be a difference maker, and the taste to make that difference a good one. Another of his projects is a local one — Vietnamese rockers White Noize, who he has recently taken to managing. The all-girl-plus-one-guy group already has a decent following, and Rod is trying to push more original material into their sets. It’s an experiment that seems to be working. “During [original] songs, the audience isn’t as energetic as for cover songs,” White Noize lead thrasher Owl says. “But after the song finishes, they clap their hands stronger and longer. We don’t say our songs are good, but we do put all of our heart into originals. When we play originals we’re more excited. Maybe that’s the reason.”

Heartbreakers Last month, one of indie Saigon’s great hopes left. Brett Newski headed a jangly indie combo called The Corruption, and really tried to make it work. When he left, it wasn’t so much about what hometown

Milwaukee could give him as what Saigon could not. I interviewed Brett a few months back. Despite the pressures of getting an audience for original music, he was optimistic. “It would be great to develop indie rock music in Saigon, but it’s going to take a few years. Right now, the two big genres are metal and K-Pop — eventually a middle ground must be formed. Melodic rock-androll seems like a great genre to fill that void.” But the gigs got fewer and further between, even after releasing a solid first album here. He was killing time with his covers act, not stretching himself like he wanted to. A couple of weeks before he left we did a fake documentary tour of Bui Vien’s convenience stores. I played his enthusiastic Eastern European manager. The joke was in me saying things like, “People don’t talk about playing Circle K and 7/11 because they don’t want to jinx it,” and Brett rolling his eyes and deadpanning, “How many Red Bulls do we get paid again?” But somewhere in there, as we were blocking the aisle of yet another Shop & Go, the weird reality hit us — this was the gig, and we weren’t getting paid. Not even in Red Bulls.

The Man Who Brought in Bob Dylan Besides being a part owner of Q4 and Spanish tapas bar, Pacharan, Rod Quinton is the GM of Saigon Sound System, the

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s e t i S e h T : w e i V s â&#x20AC;&#x2122; r e d i s n An I

Turned off by the War Remnants Museum? Spent too long hanging around the cathedral? Jaded from your trip to Cu Chi Tunnels? Here are some of the lesser known historical sites you can visit in Ho Chi Minh City. Words by Tim Doling 50 | Word March 2013

MINH HUONG PAGODA Minh Huong Pagoda, 184 Hong Bang, Q5 A monument to the prosperity, prestige and confidence of colonial Cho Lon, the Phuoc An Assembly Hall (popularly known as the Minh Huong Pagoda) was built right next to Cho Lon Railway Station in the late 19th century by Minh Huong Chinese

whose ancestors hailed from Guangdong, Fujian and Zhejiang provinces. Originally established to worship Quan Thanh De Quan (the famous Chinese general Guan Yu), it later acquired secondary shrines to the Fujianese deity Ong Bon and the Ngu Hanh

goddesses of the five elements. Plaques commemorate official visits by Lieutenant Governor of Cochinchina Dr Maurice Cognacq on Mar. 4 1921 and Governor General of Indochina Henri Martial Merlin on Sep. 15 1924.

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successful Chinese property business, the Société Immobilière Hui Bon Hoa.

MORNING ZEN ANGKORIAN OUTPOST Chantarangsey Pagoda, 164/235 Tran Quoc Thao, Q3 The Mekong Delta was ruled for nearly a thousand years by the Khmer including the port of Prey Nokor, the forerunner of Ho Chi Minh City. Today ethnic Khmer people are still a sizeable minority in the city and their religious and cultural life is focused on the Chantarangsey (Moonlight) Pagoda. Built on the banks of the Thi Nghe Canal in the mid-1900s by the Venerable Lam Em of Soc Trang, it is dedicated to the Shakyamuni Buddha. The walls of its ornate three-prang main sanctuary and adjacent sala are covered with brightly-coloured imagery depicting scenes from the Buddha’s life.

Giac Vien Pagoda, 161/35/20 Lac Long Quan, Q11 The early Minh Huong settlers also built pagodas, one of the best surviving examples is Giac Vien Pagoda, a Linji Zen Buddhist sanctuary which began life in 1789 as a wood store. In the mornings it’s still one of the city’s most peaceful spots, though sadly after lunch the peace is shattered by the loudspeakers of the adjacent Dam Sen Water Park.

THE BIRTH OF CHOLON Minh Huong Gia Thanh, 380 Tran Hung Dao B, Q5 The 1683 arrival in Danang of hoards of asylum-seeking Chinese supporters of the deposed Ming dynasty could hardly have pleased the Nguyen lords. However, they turned the situation to their advantage by encouraging the refugees to head south to colonise new territories in Gia Dinh on their behalf. One group settled west of Prey Nokor where they established the Minh Huong commune, today’s Cho Lon. Skilled traders, they immediately became involved in shipping and rice trading, markets they would dominate for centuries. Built between 1789 and 1797 the Minh Huong Gia Thanh is their oldest surviving communal house. As well as honouring the Minh Huong village deities it contains shrines to the famous Nguyen dynasty military commanders who protected them and to Minh Huong scholars Trinh Hoai Duc and Ngo Nhan Tinh.

SCARY MANSION Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum, 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Long rumoured to be haunted by the ghost of a young woman, ‘Uncle Hoa’s Mansion’ — now home to the Fine Arts Museum — was one of three buildings constructed in 1929-1934 as the Saigon headquarters of

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away in a corner next to the Archbishop’s Residence. The jury is out on exactly whose house it was. Most people believe it to have been a gift, commissioned in 1790 by Lord Nguyen Phuc Anh (later King Gia Long) for his French ally Bishop Pierre Pigneau de Béhaine, in gratitude for assistance in the war against the Tay Son. One historian however has suggested that it might actually have been abandoned by an Annamite mandarin, seized by the French in 1860 and given to a Monsignor Dominique Lefèbvre to use as his first bishop’s residence. Either way although small, it is quite impressive.

EVACUATION The Roof of 22 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 In the final days of the American War, when the city was evacuated, the roof of the CIA building at 22 Gia Long (now Ly Tu Trong) became one of several landing sites for so-called “Freedom Birds”, helicopters conveying people to US ships bound for Guam or the Philippines. The little hut on the roof was captured in a famous image, taken by Dutch press photographer Hubert van Es, of people scrambling up a ladder to a waiting Bell UH-1 “Huey” helicopter. Best viewed from a bench in Chi Lang Park.

DRAGON HOUSE Nha Rong — Ho Chi Minh Museum, 1 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 For most people, the mention of French colonial architecture conjures up images of grand neo-classical edifices designed to reflect the glories of the empire. Yet many of the earliest French public buildings in Saigon were surprisingly modest structures with designs strongly influenced by Vietnamese ethnic architecture. Built in 1863 as the headquarters of the Compagnie des Messageries Maritimes, the Dragon House is a fine example of this early colonial style. Resembling a stilted house, it has a traditional roof decorated with dragons, the central pair gazing towards the moon in the luong long chau nguyet style found widely on Vietnamese pagodas and temples. Today it is used as the Ho Chi Minh Museum, as it was from this very spot that the young Ho Chi Minh set off for Europe in June 1911.

SCHOLARS AND REBELS Chi Hoa Communal House, 475/77 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q10 Life was hard for the citizens of Gia Dinh during the long war (1774-1802) between Nguyen Phuc Anh and the Tay Son brothers. However, dedicated mandarin-scholars like Vo Truong Toan were determined to continue teaching their students. Finding a secluded communal house in Chi Hoa, Toan trained many future southern luminaries here, including Trinh Hoai Duc (1765-1825), Ngo Nhan Tinh (1761-1813) and Le Quang Dinh (1759-1813), later known for their considerable literary output as the Gia Dinh Tam Gia (The Gia Dinh Three). This ancient building was later used as a covert military training centre by rebel Phan Xich Long between 1915 and 1917 and again by the anti-French Young Pioneers after the August Revolution of 1945.

calligraphic boards. Strangely, it works, succeeding where many other “east meets west” monstrosities have failed. The church is known for its connection with the military coup of November 1963. Having fled the palace the previous day, President Ngo Dinh Diem and his younger brother Ngo Dinh Nhu came early to pray. As they left they were arrested, bundled into an armoured car and later shot by members of the coup forces. A commemorative plaque in the rear stalls indicates exactly where the brothers sat to pray.

authorities to convert other public buildings into jails. One such building was the secure psychiatric ward at Cho Quan Hospital, used to incarcerate political prisoners. Its most famous inmate was Tran Phu, first Secretary General of the Indochina Communist Party. He was captured and detained by French police who finally brought him here on Aug. 26, 1931. He died of tuberculosis in one of its cells 11 days later, aged just 27. His final words to colleagues were: “Remain determined to fight.” The old secure psychiatric ward has been preserved in period style as a museum dedicated to his memory.

studies at the lycée. The villa at 141 Rue Testard (Vo Van Tan) was where the family lived on their return to Vietnam, before their eventual relocation to France.

AFTER THE AFFAIR

DIOCESAN DWELLING

EAST-WEST FUSION

IN MEMORIAM

Tan Xa Palace, 180 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Not quite a palace, but reputedly the oldest private residence in the city, it has twice been dismantled and reassembled in different locations. Its current location is hidden

Francis Xavier Church, 25 Hoc Lac, Q5 Built in 1902, the church was conceived in European Gothic style but has Oriental features such as yin-yang roof tiles, ceramic roof ridge decoration and lacquered

Tran Phu Memorial Site, Cho Quan Hospital, 766 Vo Van Kiet, Q5 As opposition to French rule intensified during the last few decades of colonial rule, the Saigon prison system became increasingly overcrowded, forcing the

Marguerite Duras House, 141 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Marguerite Donnadieu (Duras) was a French writer and film director, born in Saigon. Her 1984 Prix Goncourt-winning novel l’Amant (The Lover) was inspired by her relationship as a young high school student with a rich Chinese man, Léo Huynh Thuy Le. The affair started in 1929 and lasted during Marguerite’s first two years of study at the Lycée Chasseloup-Laubat (now the Le Quy Don Secondary School). After the affair ended, the Donnadieu family went back to France, but they returned the following year so that Marguerite could complete her

HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT Pho Binh, 7 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 The pho at Pho Binh is tasty enough, but the real focus of interest here is this cafe’s crucial wartime role as “Subdivision 6 Forward Headquarters of the Saigon-Gia Dinh Special Forces Region.” Owner Ngo Van Toai and his team served hungry customers downstairs, while upstairs operatives met

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to mastermind the attacks of Tet 1968. In the aftermath the cafe was stormed and 13 were arrested, two later dying in police custody. Mr Toai was also imprisoned but regained his freedom in 1975, whereupon he reopened his noodle shop. Since his death in 2007, Pho Binh has been run by his children, who maintain the upstairs area as a museum and family shrine.

attacks on enemy installations. Fast emerging as a rival to Cu Chi as the day trip of choice from Ho Chi Minh City, today Sac Forest Guerilla Base is accessed by speedboat.

GROUNDED

WEAPONS STASH Secret Weapons Hiding Place Museum, 287/70 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 This unassuming house conceals a fascinating secret — a cellar dug by owner Tran Van Lai to conceal weapons and explosives for the 1968 attack on the Independence Palace. Pistols, rifles, grenades and over 350kg of TNT were brought here from Cu Chi and other remote bases in vans or ox carts, ingeniously hidden in hollowed-out wooden panels, plant pots and wickerwork baskets. Today the house is preserved as a museum and visitors can descend through a trap door into the weapons cellar, which is realistically dressed with boxes of replica armaments to show how it once looked. Upstairs an exhibition explains the planning and implementation of the mission, while a memorial honours the 15-strong NLF Special Forces Team 5, all of whom lost their lives during the attack.

Boeing 707, Hong Ha, Tan Binh How the old Boeing 707 ever got to its current location, a field in Hong Ha, is a mystery. It is quite some distance from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and old maps indicate that this area has never been linked to airport runways. But there it sits. Aviation enthusiasts identified the aircraft as a 1960 B707-344, originally flown by South African Airways. It was acquired by Vietnam Airlines in 1977 and flown under registration VN-A304 until 1985 when it was grounded. Then, it was somehow taken to its current location and used for training purposes. In the 1990s it became a popular cafe, but that’s now closed and the word on the street is that this unusual landmark may soon be taken away for scrap.

BIG MARKET Binh Tay Market, 57A Thap Muoi, Q6 Cho Lon’s massive temple to colonial consumerism was built in 1930 with funds from wealthy Cantonese merchant Quach Dam after the previous Cho Lon Market was destroyed by fire.

BITEXCO FINANCIAL TOWER SCHOLAR PAR EXCELLENCE

SIMPLY MONUMENTAL SWAMP WARFARE Sac Forest Guerilla Base, Can Gio Ecotourism Area, Can Gio District Sac Forest Guerilla Base is 70km southeast of Saigon, located deep in the mangrove swamps of the UNESCO Can Gio World Biosphere Reserve. The base, consisting of a semi-circular array of guerrilla huts connected by bamboo walkways, was set up in 1966. It operated in extraordinarily difficult terrain, often with inadequate supplies of food and water. Despite this, it succeeded in launching many devastating

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Hoa Binh Theatre, 240-242 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 In contrast to Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City has relatively little to offer fans of postreunification Soviet-style architecture. But there’s one noteworthy exception — Vietnam’s largest performing arts venue, the magnificent Hoa Binh Theatre. Designed by Huynh Tan Phat and built in 1985 with Soviet aid, it incorporates a 2,300seat main auditorium with revolving stage and a 300-seat cinema.

EDEN MALL / VINCOM A

Pétrus Ky Mausoleum and Memorial House, 520 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 A somewhat controversial figure due to his close ties with the colonial authorities, Pétrus Truong Vinh Ky (1837-1898) was a man of remarkable intellect, cited by Encyclopédie Larousse as one of 18 world-famous writers of the 19th century. Fluent in at least 10 different languages, he left more than 100 works of literature, history and geography, as well as dictionaries and translated works. To commemorate the 30th anniversary of his death, the Société d'Enseignement Mutuel de la Cochinchine built a classical-style mausoleum over his grave, next to his family home in Cho Quan village. A city street, a school and a tramway station were also named in his honour. Unfortunately Ky’s original house didn’t survive, so to celebrate the centenary of his birth, a replica was built as a memorial house. Ky’s descendants still live there, but the building also incorporates a small exhibition on his life and work.

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Singaporeans like to talk of the Lion City as the capital of Southeast Asian cuisine. But if your looking for that culinary getaway, for price, taste and pure quality, the region’s best street food destination is Penang. Elisabeth Rosen takes a trip to this former British colony lying to the northwest of mainland Malaysia

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he sun has long since set, but for the food vendors on Lebuh Chulia, business is just beginning. Along the crowded sidewalk, local people queue up for steaming, fragrant bowls of wonton soup and heaps of fresh noodles, wok-seared in a dark sauce. Outside a shuttered shop, a vendor pours the water from coconuts into plastic bags filled with shredded fruit. The Malaysian island of Penang has a well-deserved reputation as the street food capital of Southeast Asia. Less than an hour’s flight from Kuala Lumpur, Penang boasts an eclectic cuisine influenced by Chinese and Indian merchants as well as native Malay traditions. In the past, hawkers paced the streets, banging on sticks of wood to make their presence known. Today, you’ll find them cooking at stalls outside coffee shops and in markets, but the wide array of dishes they offer shows that the island is still a culinary melting pot. Start the day as the locals do, at Toh Soon Cafe (Jalan Campbell, off Jalan Penang), a coffee shop tucked into a back alley of historic George Town, where colonialera shophouses still outnumber newer developments. For decades this tiny shop has served the traditional breakfast of toast and kopi, strong black coffee brewed in a metal pot and filtered through a muslin cloth. The beans are roasted with sugar and butter, giving the resulting brew a dense richness. Order your drink ‘O’ style (RM1.30,

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“The shop looks like it hasn’t changed since the stall opened, with chipped blue walls and shelves stacked with ancestral clutter” “The business was founded 80 years ago by the current owner’s father, Choy. As all hawkers did in those days, he wandered the streets knocking on a bamboo stick to advertise his wares. It’s not hard to imagine people queuing up at the sound” VND9,000), without condensed milk, for a stronger sip. The toast, too, is still made the oldfashioned way. In the tiny kitchen, a charcoal fire burns inside an oil drum, toasting bread to a golden crisp and heating water for coffee at the same time. Once toasted, the bread gets a thick layer of butter or kaya, a sweet, eggy spread flavoured with coconut milk (RM1.50, VND10,000). Ask for both; the golden, mouthwatering result makes a light yet satisfying breakfast. For an introduction to Penang’s hawker food, walk down a block to Chowrasta Street Market (Jalan Kuala Kangsar, off Jalan

Getting There AirAsia and Malaysia Airlines run flights from Vietnam to Penang via Kuala Lumpur (KL). Doing the trip with AirAsia costs from VND2.9 million return, depending on when you depart and how far in advance you book your trip. Malaysia Airlines do the roundtrip starting at VND8.4 million including taxes and additional fees.

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Campbell). Filled with fruit and vegetable sellers and butchers hacking up racks of meat, the bustling wet market also has its share of hawkers selling classic Malay dishes like hokkien mee (spicy egg noodle soup) and chee cheong fun (steamed rice crepes). If you find a roti stall, ask for a roti canai: for about RM1 (VND7,000), you get a warm, round flatbread, edges crisp from the iron skillet. Like the Indian paratha that inspired it, the bread comes with a rich cumin-scented curry for dipping.

Starfish and Coffee As lunchtime nears, make your way to Lam Heng Coffee Shop (185 Jalan Macalister), home of the famous Sister’s char kway teow stall. Rumoured to serve the best, fried rice noodles in Penang, the stall has been run for decades by two sisters and their family. The shop itself looks like it hasn’t changed since the stall opened, with chipped blue walls and shelves stacked with ancestral clutter. Order your noodles from the woman at the wok, then take a seat on the wooden stools with an iced kopi, swirled with sweetened condensed milk.

Char kway teow was originally sold by Malay fishermen and farmers who needed extra income. At night, they stir-fried leftover shellfish with rice noodles and lard, which they sold to labourers as a cheap and filling meal. Today, the noodles are known as one of the region’s signature dishes. Although contemporary health concerns dictate less pork fat and more bean sprouts, the best noodles are still fried in lard, which combines with the searing heat of the wok (wok hei, which literally means “wok breath”) to lend the noodles a rich, smoky flavour. At Sister’s, each plate (RM5, VND34,000 for a large) gets a distinctive garnish of fresh crab meat. Charred in the wok, tangles of flat rice noodles absorb the dark sweet sauce and freshly ground chilli paste. Bean sprouts and egg go in for textural contrast, joined by tender shrimp and a handful of Chinese chives.

Dancing Porridge For a midday respite, head to Batu Ferringhi, the beach along the northern coast of Penang Island. Although new developments are rapidly cropping up, it’s still possible to

find a calm stretch of sand. Skip the strip of resorts and restaurants and look for handpainted wood signs pointing the way to the beach. Adventurous travellers can partake in water activities like parasailing and jet skiing, but the most thrilling diversion might be spotting a group of monkeys in the leafy trees overhead. On the way back, stop by the Mount Erskine Hawker Centre (Jalan Mount Erskine). It looks like a ramshackle collection of stalls on the side of the road, but insiders know that some of the best food in Penang can be found here. This is the place to try the island’s signature dish, nyonya laksa (RM4, VND27,000 for a large), a pungent, fiery noodle soup that merges Chinese and Malay flavours. Hunched over an enormous pot, the cook ladles the tangy red broth over thick, slippery noodles and tops it with steamed and flaked mackerel, pineapple chunks and mint leaves. The flavours are explosive; a mouth-puckering dose of tamarind juice, infused with heat from rings of red chilli and hints of gentle mint. Cool off with a bowl of bubur cha cha (RM3.50, VND24,000) from the neighbouring

stall. The name, which means “dancing porridge” in Malay, perfectly captures the euphoric experience of eating this dessert. Stewed in coconut milk, a rainbow medley of glutinous bites (sweet potatoes, taro, banana, tapioca) is topped with a mountain of shaved ice and a scoop of creamy mango ice cream. Back in George Town, stop for a final kopi at Sai Lam Coffee Shop (307 Lebuh Chulia). The street is crowded with wan tan mee stalls, but the soup here (RM4, VND27,000 for a large) might be the best in town. Loaded with knots of fresh, hand-cut noodles, the amber broth comes topped with silken

dumplings and strips of char siew pork. According to local rumour, the business was founded 80 years ago by the current owner’s father, Choy. As all hawkers did in those days, he wandered the streets knocking on a bamboo stick to advertise his wares. It’s not hard to imagine people queuing up at the sound. Across the street, an apom vendor beckons with rows of crisp golden crepes (RM0.50, VND3,500). Wandering through George Town in the cool dusk air, pancakes in hand, you can understand why so many merchants of yesteryear chose to settle here instead of returning home.

Accommodation and Information There are a number of excellent budget options for travellers staying in George Town, Penang. Go to travelfish.org for further information. Prices start at under RM60 (VND400,000) per night for a room with aircon — the best locations for anyone wanting to get into the cuisine are in the Chinatown area. For the mid to high-end market, check out websites like agoda.com. Some excellent websites provide information on Penang including penang.ws, which includes a free, downloadable guide to Penang, and tourismpenang.net.my. Both portals provide information on the local cuisine and the various attractions on the island.

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S DAY TRIPPER

Soc Son Temples As one of the oldest and most holy sites in Vietnam, the peaceful temple complex of Den Soc makes a great getaway from the bustle of Hanoi. Words by Douglas Pyper. Photos by Francis Roux

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at at the foot of the Soc Mountains and just an hour’s drive from Hanoi, Den Soc is an oasis of quiet and peace. Blessed by three natural lakes and bequeathed a large reservoir, the site has been religiously important since the 10th Century due to its connection to one of Vietnam’s most famous folk-heroes. The temples here worship Phu Dong Thien Vuong, known more colloquially as Thanh Giong, a semi-mythical figure who defeated the Chinese. Legend has it that Thanh Giong grew from a child into a man in a matter of days by feasting voraciously on rice, then ousted the Chinese using his bamboo sword. The temple complex commemorating him and Vietnam’s victory was erected sometime around AD980, making it a viable candidate for the much abused adjective “ancient”. Today, visitors can walk among these temples, pray to Thanh Giong and generally soak up the ambience of the area. Anywhere at the foot of the mountain makes a great picnic spot, but those feeling a bit more athletic can climb the steps to the top of the mountain. In 2010, an impressive statue to Thanh Giong was erected here as part of the 1,000-year Thanh Long — Hanoi celebrations. It’s quite a climb, but affords some great views of the surrounding countryside. If you haven’t got the legs, then there is also a well-paved, though unsignposted road to the summit. During Tet, Den Soc also hosts one of the country’s biggest festivals. On the

sixth, seventh and eighth days of the Lunar New Year, it becomes an explosion of colour, religion and tradition. Big crowds, processions and even an amusement park for kids appear as if from nowhere. At other times of the year, guests tend to be in the form of school trips bused in from Hanoi. They climb the mountain, are taught the religious and mythological significance of the place, recount their achievements for the year, make resolutions and even listen to Vina-house while playing tug-of-war. Other visitors are worshippers, daytrippers and the occasional foreigner.

Teaching Buddha Due to the area’s long religious significance, there are a variety of other temples and pagodas dotted around the mountain, and it is the site of northern Vietnam’s Institute of Buddhism. One of the most spectacular nearby pagodas is Chua Non Nuoc. Administered by the Buddhism Institute, the structure became home to Vietnam’s largest indoor Buddha in 2001. Towering a good 6.5 meters over those who visit, and weighing an astonishing 30 tons, the statue is not to be sniffed at. The pagoda itself is exquisitely composed of huge lim wood columns and in many places is beautifully carved. Perhaps more impressive, however, are the plans on display for a new building for the Buddhism Institute. Designed by architects in Beijing, the model is a breathtaking structure of

“They climb the mountain, are taught the religious and mythological significance of the place, recount their achievements for the year, make resolutions and even listen to Vina-house while playing tug-of-war”

rooftop gardens and relaxing water features stemming from a central lotus bud-shaped building. In any country in the world the structure would be an architectural dream. Sadly, that looks like all it will ever be as the plans are presently masked by a six-year layer of dust. The present building for the Buddhism Institute is a massively imposing structure with none of the Feng Shui properties that make its dream replacement so remarkable. Here more than 2,000 students are studying four-year courses. All prospective monks must have high school diplomas and pay tuition fees of VND1.5million per year. After their daily lectures, the monks head to Chua Non Nuoc for meditation in front of the massive statue. Visitors will find students all over the complex, shuffling off to classes, whispering with friends, working on their laptops and looking sheepish in front of strangers. Unfortunately, this is one trait that both the Den Soc complex and buildings administered by the Buddhism Institute share. Trying to talk to the monks, or any authority figures nearby can leave you feeling a bit like a white man in Bangkok — suspect. Regardless, the site’s millennium of history, religion and culture makes Den Soc an ideal spot for a day out of the city. The opportunity to climb a mountain, have a picnic and explore old temples is just an hour’s ride away.

Getting There Cross Thanh Long Bridge and follow the road north past the airport until you get to a T-junction. Turn left towards Phu Lo and continue till another T-junction offers you the opportunity to turn left again towards Thai Nguyen City. Around 44km before the city you’ll find a signposted left turn to Den Soc.

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T The

Gift Experience Two new start-ups are trying to introduce Vietnam to a different way of giving gifts. But are people ready? Words by Fabiola Buchele

he art of gifting has a long history in Vietnam, but the almost simultaneous launch of two gift experience companies suggests that some believe the country’s growing middle class are ready for a new kind of present. Happimap and Senses Club are attempting to pitch their tents in a gap the respective co-founders spotted in the country’s economy. The idea currently being introduced to Vietnam is born out of two concepts of gift giving popular in the West; the gift voucher and the experiential gift. Gift vouchers, redeemable for a specified amount, are widely available from many stores. But the idea of giving an experience as a gift was introduced in the 1990s by UK company, Red Letter Days. They offered a huge range of experiences to give your loved one; from spa visits to paragliding sessions, the chance to learn magic tricks, or perhaps to make jewellery. The idea took off and today the experiential gift market is a multi-million dollar industry. The concept being offered here combines the two ideas. The giver buys a gift voucher, which is then redeemed by the recipient for an experience of their choice. The founders of Happimap and Senses Club believe this will

lead to more exciting and memorable gifts. “Often after a birthday or party you end up with 10 bottles of wine or spirits and you have to really think to remember — I got this one from Mary, this one from Jenny,” explains 29-year-old Biqué Trieu, the cofounder of Happimap. “But when you have been given an experience by someone, you will think of Mary or Jenny when you’re redeeming your spa voucher.” This is echoed by co-founder of Senses Club, Alexi Daste. “You don’t want to buy a gift for someone and then find out it is not what the person likes,” he says. In response, both have created catalogues of gifts, each with a different value. Happimap’s version is colour-coded, starts at VND500,000 per gift set and rises to VND3 million. Senses Club similarly offers a value range with their three price categories Crystal, Gold and Platinum spanning from VND350,000 to just under VND2 million. The selection of gifts in each catalogue is divided into categories. So, in Happimap’s culinary gift experiences section, the person who has received the gift can choose to redeem their voucher on anything from a meal for two at an Indian restaurant through to a street eats tour of Hanoi or a cooking class in Hoi An. In the sport and adventure

category, you could play paintball, have a round of golf, learn pole dancing or even choose to go scuba diving.

Creating the Market The market that exists in the West relies on consumers’ total trust that you will get what you pay for. If it turns out this isn’t the case, you have legal rights to a refund. Such consumer security is lacking in Vietnam; trying to convince people who haven’t yet had reason to trust in the concept of vouchers is not simple. Here, traditionally gifts are presents to be unwrapped, things you can touch and feel. This lack of security has been accentuated by problems experienced by customers of the discount coupon provider, Nhom Mua. When they failed to deliver on valid, pre-purchased vouchers last November, the previously popular website went offline and its manager, Tom Tran, left the country — all eroding any trust that had been built up for such vouchers in Vietnam. With Happimap and Senses Club both working in a similar market, according to Alexi, this is one of the most difficult hurdles that they have had to overcome. “We felt the effect [of the Nhom Mua scandal] during our negotiations with

providers,” he explains. “We had to work even harder to convince them that our vouchers are secure.” Biqué says that to deal with this problem they’ve had to pay the utmost attention to quality control. They’ve also had to make a clear distinction between discount coupons and their own product. “It’s not about deals, it’s about experience,” she says, adding that it was not easy to find reliable partners. “We had to be picky and even now keep up quality control for every service and [piece of] equipment featured in our range.”

Tug and Pull It is in the difficulty of finding the right partners where it seems their race to a sturdy tent is at its fiercest. “Few of our partners are shared,” says Alexi. “But Vietnam has only a limited number of services with standards as high as we need them to be.” Yet, having two new businesses simultaneously trying to change gift-giving behaviour is beneficial for both start-ups. By promoting themselves, they are promoting the industry as a whole, and by virtue of this, their competitor, too. They are also dependent on each other to build up trust. Make one Nhom Mua-style mistake, and

it will affect the whole market. But create trust among their customer base, and their competitor will benefit, too. But even getting to launch stage was tough — the gestation period for both Happimap and Senses Club was roughly a year-anda-half. “Unless you want to release a [low quality] product it takes time,” explains Biqué. “A lot of people give up on Vietnam easily. But when you are still here at the end of the day, you know you believe in something. I still believe in the market and the people.” It is the growing middle class that Senses Club is putting its money on as well; 20 to 40 year-olds who spend money on leisure and entertainment. Alexi describes the target customer as someone who is “willing to try new things and whose mind is more flexible.” How quickly they will help Senses Club and Happimap make those tent pegs sturdy, is yet to be seen. But with the entry of both these gift experiences to the market, one thing is clear. Gift giving in Vietnam is about to become just that little bit more exciting. For more information on both Happimap and Senses Club, or to purchase your own gift set, go to happimap.com or sensesclub.vn

“You don’t want to buy a gift for someone and then find out it is not what the person likes,” he says.

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“As well as providing a window through which to interpret the past, the iconic vinyl format is also changing the present. By all rights, it should be long dead. But what hasn’t killed it, has made it stronger”

ou know those old cartoons where the character goes fishing and catches nothing but car tyres and welly boots? Digging for vinyl in Hanoi is a bit like that. In between fin de siècle gramophones and fighter pilot helmets, you might find a Chemical Brothers album with a bite taken out of it, or releases by Russian and Cuban classical ensembles that look like they’ve been used as chopping boards. In the latter half of Asia’s 20th century, the phrase “33 revolutions per minute” was more aptly used by nation states than audiophiles, and the reasons for Hanoi’s dearth of vintage vinyl are all too selfexplanatory. In the south of the country, however, the situation is a little different. Saigon was the epicenter of a bustling music scene before and during the war. Often the most interesting sounds were being made by those under the influence of the music from overseas. Tracks like Hung Cuong’s Mot Tram Van Tram combined the energy of rhythm and blues with the melodies and concerns of 1960s Saigon. In the case of Cuong’s most famous track, those concerns were getting time off from the conflict to spend with your lover.

Play it Again, Van With the arrival of CDs in the late 1980s and then MP3s, few in this country possess vinyl. But that has now changed and suppliers of vintage Vietnamese vinyl are beginning to appear. With his portable turntable hung over his shoulder and trademark hat and shades in place, Thai vinyl junkie Maft Sai is digging through a couple of hundred pre-1975 45s in Saigon’s District 1. He goes through the records one by one, flicking the needle forward every second or so to get a feel for the track. As the long process draws on, his friends start to drift away to other shops and cafes. Maft continues on alone, laboriously going through each record the shop’s owner brings to him. A few hours and a few hundred records later, he buys 50 classic records to include in his world renowned Isan Dancehall roots music DJ sets. Calling herself Ba Tuan, the shopkeeper won’t say exactly where the records have come from. Suffice to say that they are the ex-belongings of people who don’t listen to them any more and can find no-one in the family willing to take them. Despite saying Hung Cuong’s Mot Tram Van Tram was “a great track”, singing a few bars and swaying her hips energetically as soon as it’s mentioned, she never listens to the records she sells. Likewise, her kids have no interest, preferring “modern pop music”. As a major collector of Thai roots music like Molam and Luk Thung, Maft Sai has found himself at the centre of world roots music via his Bangkok based label, ZudRangMa Records. Every holiday is a digging expedition to resurrect long forgotten sounds from the Middle East to

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Mr Quang, owner of Quang's Reords, in his shop.

Africa and Southeast Asia. For Maft Sai, the purpose isn’t just for a deeper understanding of a certain country’s musical heritage, but to see the overall connections inherent in the world’s roots music. “I found a couple of tracks from Vietnam the other day and it sounds really similar to Thai Luk Thung,” he says. “A certain track also sounds a bit Ethiopian as well. It’s quite intriguing the way all this different culture in countries so far from each other can still have this connection.” When he plays the Vietnamese tracks for young audiences of partygoers in Bangkok clubs, it has the same effect on them as it did on Ba Tuan. “The people are up for dancing, they think this is Thai music, but we just don’t understand the language.” As Maft Sai leaves, Ba Tuan tells him that she can get her hands on 5,000 more records for the next time he visits. That’s an incredible store of culture unavailable on any other format and in danger of being lost forever. Having spent years resurrecting Thailand’s roots music, Maft Sai reckons the hours of research and digging is worth it. “It takes time,” he says. “But people start to realise the value of the culture [in old records].” As well as saving a musical

era from being consigned to the cultural wastebasket, Maft Sai’s persistence has also afforded him a living and a lifetime of pleasure, so much so that he refers to himself mockingly as a “selfish historian”.

Black Roots While vinyl is becoming a way for people like Maft Sai to explore Vietnamese culture, it is also starting to provide a way for Vietnamese to discover foreign musical cultures. As the little domestic music pressed to vinyl is forgotten or hard to obtain, many of Vietnam’s vinyl enthusiasts are finding out about the history of music from the west through black plastic. As this small community grows it is also starting to become more visible. Hanoi became home to the country’s first dedicated record shop in 2007. It’s a shop in that it sells things — it’s not in that it has no advertising, not even a sign or a website. If you want to go, someone is going to have to tell you the address via an online message board, a text message, or even with their mouth. It’s a small operation so prices aren’t cheap at around VND1 million per record, but it’s all worth it to owner Quang. Dressed

in a lounge-style smoking jacket, listening to French reggae and with cigarette holder in hand, Quang recounts the appeal of the black plastic. “It’s all a process,” he explains. “Some people feel it is like a religion. Before you go to the church or the temple, you should clean your body, think only good things — that’s vinyl.” Through vinyl, Quang has discovered a totally foreign culture of classical and jazz that he often doesn’t understand, but still respects. “Many jazz artists are very famous and important in American jazz history but me, or other Vietnamese listeners can’t listen to them cause we don’t belong to that culture, we cannot understand the culture.” It may not be fashionable to say it, but Quang prefers vocal jazz to Charles Mingus or Duke Ellington. For him, vinyl isn’t a fad with which to wave his pretensions, but a much richer way to appreciate music and world culture.

Green Shoots In the last few months, the trend has spread to Ho Chi Minh City, where Ngo Quoc Dung has set up the city’s first dedicated record shop. Like Quang’s place in Hanoi, it doesn’t

have a sign but at least it’s got a website. Its owner has also got very big ideas. In his small but tidy showroom, Frank Sinatra rubs up against Eminem, Thelonious Monk meets the Sex Pistols and Stravinsky sits next to Mylo, Tayler Swift and Alicia Keys. As the Clash’s London Calling fires out of the speakers, Dung explains his plans for developing an appreciation of vinyl in the country. The variety of genres and low prices in his shop are revolutionary in themselves. Averaging about VND700,000 for an LP, Dung says that he could actually get that price down to the kind of money people pay in other countries, but that doing this now, with the vinyl scene so fragile, would kill off all the other dealers. Even more ambitious are Dung’s intentions to drastically reduce the price of record players and to start pressing Vietnamese records, both reissues and new releases. Clearly Dung wants to take vinyl from a niche pursuit into the mainstream, but why should anyone care about the inconveniently large, fragile and costly format that he so loves? Logically, MP3s should be the death knell of the vinyl world, but Dung sees increased compression and falling bit rates as an advantage.

“That is when records can be resurrected,” he says. “If you listen to an MP3 and then you compare it to the vinyl, it’s like listening to a new song. That will interest young people.” And amazingly it does. As well as the elder gentlemen frequenting Dung’s shop, there are also plenty of twenty-somethings coming in to buy Adele and Lana Del Ray albums.

Richer Sounds Vinyl’s status as a store of world culture and as the most high fidelity listening experience are helping it survive long after it should have become extinct. For the last decade vinyl sales the world over have been rising and now it looks like Vietnam will start contributing to those numbers. As well as providing a window through which to interpret the past, the iconic vinyl format is also changing the present. By all rights, it should be long dead. But what hasn’t killed it, has made it stronger and ironically, the MP3 is fuelling vinyl’s resurgence. One of the main differences with vinyl is the way it affects listening habits. The ultraportability of the iPod and the availability of MP3s online has cheapened music. With thousands of songs available on massive databases, most listeners find themselves shuffling from one track to another in an effort to surprise themselves. The result is that very few people have the patience to listen to an album in its entirety. Vinyl doesn’t allow you to do this. As both Quang and Dung point out, vinyl is a process, it takes time and requires you to pay some attention to the work of art that you’re about to experience. From admiring the cover, to reading the liner notes, to setting the player’s arm over the spinning disc and dropping the needle on the outer rim, the listener is a participant in the process of vinyl. As Quang says, “When you listen to vinyl, it’s how the musician intended you to listen. Listening to one track by Pink Floyd doesn’t make sense. When you listen to [a vinyl LP], you really, actually listen. You understand the narrative of the album. With MP3s, people will never understand that.”

Get Digging Diathan www.diathan.vn 4th Floor, Riverview Building, 7A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City Quang’s Records quangbasf@gmail.com 2nd Floor, 131 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi Ba Tuan’s Vintage Records You didn’t really think it’d be this easy, did you?

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INSIDER

Guessing Games With an estimated 25 percent of the Vietnamese population into gaming, products such as Angry Birds, Pro Evolution Soccer and CrossFire are big business. Words by Hai Vu. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

or many of us, a quick game of Angry Birds while waiting for a friend at a local coffee shop might be a sensible way to kill a few spare minutes. No justification is needed should one choose to spend a quiet evening at home, slaying the dragons of Skyrim, from time to time. These are seemingly harmless choices; however, they may also signal the early onset of video game addition. Although not officially recognised as a disease by the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders, tales of people taking video game obsession to the extreme have become commonplace. To some, the lure of these fully-realised virtual worlds have already become more enticing than the experiences that real life has to offer. These individuals sacrifice alarming amounts of time and money, and essentially put their lives on hold, to play games such as World of Warcraft (WoW) and other MMORPGs (Massively Multiplayer Online Role-Playing Games). In these computer-generated spaces, real players from across the world can meet up online, trade goods, and complete quests to gain experience points and raise their player’s stats, ultimately making their characters more powerful. Studies conducted by universities in Belgium, the UK, and Australia, have found that online games possess the same addictive qualities as online gambling.

Addiction In South Korea, in 2005, a 28-year-old man died of heart failure at an internet arcade during a non-stop, 50-hour session of StarCraft. In another Korean case, a threemonth-old baby died of malnutrition while her parents raised a virtual child at one of the country’s internet cafes, called PC Bangs. After several of these high-profile stories came to light, the Korean authorities passed regulations to ban anyone under the age of 16 from using online features at PC Bangs, during the hours of midnight and 6am. China followed suit with the introduction of a fatigue system programmed into

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game characters to deter cafe patrons from overplaying their three-hours-per-day limit. The authorities here recently introduced the strictest measures yet to protect its citizens from the perceived threat of gaming addiction. In early 2011, an enforced block was put on all online features at internet cafes from 10pm to 8am. “The curfew, put in place to protect against playing too many games, is necessary,” says Nguyen Tuan Huy, founder of Emobi Studios, one of Vietnam’s few video game development companies. “But it is also necessary for it to be strictly enforced. Of course, [this policy]

“It is reported that 23 million Vietnamese are playing online games, which is approximately one-quarter of the country’s population” affects our games as well. But as long as we follow the rules, we are left alone.” Besides internet cafes, a fair number of PlayStation 3 halls can also be found across Hanoi, usually in close proximity to schools. Similar to PC Bang, these narrow buildings host a string of televisions linked to PS3 consoles. For VND12,000 an hour, customers can play a variety of games. Despite this, the Pro Evolution Soccer series, which recently released its 2013 edition, is by far the most popular choice. “Vietnam has a particular taste in games. What is extremely popular in other countries may not do so well here,” says Dung, an employee of the Vietnamese Television Corporation (VTC), the largest online game supplier in Vietnam. “Because of the language barrier, many high-profile games seemingly go unnoticed. That is why licensing foreign games and translating them for the Vietnamese market has become the smart business choice.” Dung is referring to games such as

CrossFire from Korea (known locally as Dot Kich), which now boasts 13 million Vietnamese players since its introduction in March 2008. Many Korean and Chinese online RPGs also fare well when translated into Vietnamese. Of these, Vo Lam Chi Mong, Thien Long Bat Bo, Vo Lam Truyen Ky, and Mu Online are among the most played.

Demographics Although the most popular games in Vietnam don’t differ much in style, the demographic of players are wide-ranging. During a typical afternoon, the PS3 halls and internet cafes are filled mostly with businessmen alleviating stress on their lunch breaks. Later into the evening, the teenagers descend. It is reported that 23 million Vietnamese are playing online games, which is approximately one-quarter of the country’s population. “CrossFire is played by all ages,” says Dung. “The average age [ranges] from 13 to 35. Maybe 60 percent are students, 10 percent are jobless adults, and the other 30 percent are just average people with jobs and families.” Despite their love of this virtual past-time, Vietnamese gamers are averse to paying high prices to partake in it. This explains why PS3 halls, a virtually non-existent concept in the West, are a normal sight in Vietnam. The vast majority will choose to pay an hourly rate to play with their friends at a café rather than purchase an expensive home gaming console. Vietnamese players are not buying games either. To hook them in, developers are giving the games away for free. One Vietnamese company took the opposite approach and found out the hard way just how finicky the Vietnamese gamer can be. Hanoi-based Emobi Studios released a military shoot ‘em up called 7554 in late 2011. This first-person shooter puts players in control of a Vietnamese soldier during the historic battle of Dien Bien Phu — the battle where Vietnam defeated the French. The game sells for VND399,000 and has sold only 5,500 units worldwide to date. “7554 wasn’t a huge success for us, but it

taught us some lessons for the next project,” Nguyen Tuan Huy, lead designer of 7554, admits. “At the time we didn’t have enough skill and were too nervous to put new features into the game, and gamers always want to see something new to attract them.” Thinking ahead, Huy had this to say: “Having a retail game at this time, in Vietnam, isn’t appropriate yet. We were too idealistic in our point of view and dreamed too far ahead. The gaming market in Vietnam is not used to having to buy copyrighted products.” Emobi followed up 7554 with an online multiplayer game called 2112. It is downloadable for free.

Monetarisation So how is the money made? The strategy is

not to sell games, but rather a personalised gaming experience. As Dung explains: “The games themselves are free to download, but we make our money by selling ingame items.” Dung’s employer, VTC, a distributor of popular titles including FIFA Online 2 and CrossFire, lets players use a mobile card to purchase health boosts and various articles to customise characters. This sales model earns CrossFire an average of VND30 billion per month. With the Vietnamese video game industry still in its infancy, developers and distributors are playing guessing games to figure out what will and what will not fly. Besides the fact that games must be free to have any chance of building an audience, there are other considerations

that are creating concern. To guard against the creation of overly violent games, licenses must be obtained before any online products can be distributed to the public. CrossFire just happened to be released before this restriction was set into place, but stricter guidelines will likely factor into the design and marketing of future games. And, of course, the 10pm to 8am internet curfew takes a big bite into profits by taking players out of the game entirely — well, maybe. “Yeah, there’s always a way around the curfew, you know?” Dung says with a smirk. Ah, yes. In this time of uncertainty, the single most important tenet of gaming continues to hold true—where there’s a Warcraft, there’s a way.

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SOCIETY

WOMAN Celebrating women even more than usual, this month it’s all about strong women who are doing something different. Words by Kaitlin Rees. Photo by Francis Roux The Many Tales of Madame Quy It’s not every day that you meet a grandmother with a diamond stud in her tooth. Then again, a few hours of talking to Quy and you’ll have a few of those “not every day that you…” moments. The story of Quy is a beautiful one and it’s a sad one, depending on how you want to tell it. And as a theatre and film actress for over three decades, Quy could probably get you both laughing and weeping in her own rendition of her life’s events. She was ten years old when her family would wake up in the middle of the night and run to the underground shelter in front of the house. She still recalls the sounds of gunfire, though many of the other memories have faded. She was 18 when she first auditioned for a song and dance troupe but due to improper preparation of official letters and documentation, was passed on to the police theatre group. “They asked me, ‘can you sing about rice?’ and I said, “no, not much!’” But she learnt, and after two years, joined the army’s stage drama group. The army was a big family, travelling for up to six months at a time around Vietnam to perform. So which story to tell here and how? There’s the story of her emotional performances as a heroic mother during the war. One of how she met her husband when he first thought she was a xe om driver. The story of how she left the army to get married but every night dreamed of being on the stage. The story of opening

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her café, Colonel Quy’s, on Lang Yen Phu, which was an immediate success. And how, despite the strong choices Quy made personally, when it comes to raising her daughter, traditional values still weigh heavily. She tells her daughter, “If you don’t know cooking, you need to know cooking. You need to know how to wear clothes and be beautiful.” Each of the stories above would draw out a certain aspect of Quy’s very full life. Admiration, frustration, sympathy, amusement, respect. But it would be an aspect only and maybe the only thing to write, after sitting down for a long morning coffee with Quy, is that she is a warm host and the view of the lake is lovely.

university students, CSOs and members of the Heads of Agencies and Ambassadors Informal Group on Gender will convene. Why the discussion? Well, International Women’s Day is on Mar. 8. Other activities happening across the city to celebrate “our” day include the following:

One Day… Things Will be Different

Mar. 11 UN VN and Youth Union “Breaking Stereotypes” (as above). In the National University Auditorium. Contact: verity.boaro@unwomen.org for more information.

Traffic police officer, football referee, political leader, taxi driver, manager of a high-end restaurant, student of engineering. If you just pictured a man doing these jobs, you are probably not the only one. Perceptions of what is a woman’s job and what is a man’s job are thickly ingrained in society. To work outside of the “normal” role for your gender occasionally requires a thick skin and it occasionally means you will speak about it. On Mar. 11, various men and women who are breaking stereotypes will be involved in a panel discussion. Held at the National University auditorium, 300 invited guests including high school and

Mar. 5 The United Nations Development Programme are running a project on Women's Empowerment in the Public Sector. Contact jean.munro@undp.org for information. Mar. 7 Showing of Deepa Mehta's film Fire at Cinematheque organised by the Canadian Embassy. Reception at 5.30pm Contact: ayesha.rekhi@international.gc.ca.

Mar. 11 onwards Exhibition on the theme of domestic violence. Contact: ana. demendoza@aecid.vn at the Spanish Agency for International Development Cooperation for information. Mar. 12 Launch of resources to support female entrepreneurs to start businesses run from home, provided by the Canadian Embassy. Contact francois.lasalle@ international.gc.ca for information.

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MYSTERY DINER

My Place T

he breeze blew in through the open doorway, carrying with it the heady aroma of cinnamon and star anise. In the kitchen, pork and mushrooms simmered in a dark cauldron laden with garlic and herbs. My heap of rice was streaked with bright red sambal, leaving a trail of spice across the broad white plate. Looking up from the nasi lemak, I was almost surprised to find myself still in Hanoi. Like the Vietnamese com binh dan, nasi lemak is the de facto national lunch of Malaysia. At noon, you can’t walk far in Kuala Lumpur without seeing a vendor dishing out heaps of rice topped with generous hunks of crispy fried chicken and ladlefuls of bright red sambal, a traditional spicy condiment. For the equivalent of about VND50,000, you can enjoy a spicy feast rich in protein, if light on vegetables. At My Place, a little food shop tucked in by West Lake, the nasi lemak hews closely to the traditional standard. In the middle of the plate lies a heap of rice, which — if you dare — you can mix with the fiery anchovy sambal. Around the edges jostle two plump pieces of fried chicken and a fried egg, the cloudlike white surrounding a golden yolk. Coated in a crisp spice paste, the chicken is moist and tender. The generously stacked plate comes garnished with crisp slices of cucumber, a small pile of

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Fancy some Malaysian cuisine as it is cooked in Malaysia? This month our mystery reviewer visits the self-styled kopitiam, My Place. Photos by Elisabeth Rosen dried anchovies and freshly roasted peanuts. The authenticity of the dish may be its undoing. Laden with salty dried anchovy, the sambal might be too fishy for those unaccustomed to Malay flavours. Still, it’s pleasant to see a restaurant that doesn’t water down flavours for local palates.

Simplicity The restaurant is small but cheerful, with bright red tables and Mediterranean tiled floors that make a perfect match for the lakeside location. It’s simply decorated, with warm orange lanterns and exposed brick walls painted a basic white. Its door-less wide entrance offers a generous view of West Lake. There are only two things on the lunch menu: nasi lemak and bak kut teh, a Chinese-influenced herbal soup. The soup has a richness, thanks to earthy dried shitake mushrooms and dense pork ribs, simmered in liquid infused with cinnamon, star anise, ginseng and garlic until they form a complex, umami-style broth. Along with those hunks of meat — so soft they practically melt off the bone — you’ll find shreds of tofu skin and Chinese lettuce in the stock. Served with rice, it also comes with snippets of fried dough (identical to Vietnamese banh quay ) to be dunked into the rich pork broth. This dish is surprisingly satisfying. Wash it all down with teh tarik, a

THE VERDICT

10 Food

frothy milk tea produced by pouring the liquid back and forth between two containers until it forms a rich foam. In Malaysia, vendors show off how much tea they can ‘pull’ without spilling it; here, it’s less of a show, but the result is just as sweet and foamy.

Authenticity

12.5 Service

Décor Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

The restaurant opened two years ago, but Jane, the current owner, bought it in November when the previous person at the helm returned to Singapore. All the ingredients, from the chilli paste that makes the sambal to the silvery dried anchovies sprinkled over the top of the nasi lemak, are imported from Malaysia, giving the food a rich sense of authenticity. My Place doesn’t stop at lunch. It also offers the breakfast traditionally served at Malaysia’s ubiquitous kopitiams, or coffee shops: roti bakar (fluffy slices of white toast with butter and kaya, a sweetened coconut spread) and gently boiled egg, still liquidy, to be cracked into a bowl and enjoyed with the crisp toast. The coffee is Vietnamese, but the sugar content recalls the sinful sweetness of Malaysian kopi. If it weren’t for the roar of motorbikes outside, the lake air might be enough to convince you that you were at the Malaysian seaside. My Place is at 9 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho (opposite Taboo Bar). Tel: 0914 541313

STREET SNACKER

Banh Xeo To Hien Thanh Hue cuisine is often deemed to be the best in Vietnam. One version of banh xeo sold in Hanoi perpetuates the myth. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Francis Roux

nce the imperial capital of Vietnam, Hue is still renowned for its royal cuisine. So much so that a large number of Vietnamese including many Hanoians have the firmly-held belief that it is the best of the country. Take banh xeo or fried pancake as an example. This dish may be familiar to many of us and people may encounter different versions of banh xeo as it is prepared differently throughout the country. However, to many Hanoians, the Hue version of banh xeo is the one that they prefer most. And while the exact origin of this dish remains a question, many think this Vietnamese fried pancake has its roots in Central Vietnam. Hanoians who are Hue culinary fans tend to seek eateries opened by Hue natives as to them, only people from the former imperial city can deliver the true spirit of Hue cuisine, both in terms of presentation and taste. Among the various Hue eateries in Hanoi, Banh Xeo Bun Thit Nuong 3 To Hien Thanh is famous for its almost ‘exact’ translation of the essence of Hue.

Ingredients, Ingredients, Ingredients According to the owner at 3A To Hien Thanh, all versions of banh xeo consist of three components: the fried pancake, the dipping sauce and the wrappers. However, each style differs taste-wise down to very small variations in the ingredients. “The simple step of choosing wrapping

vegetables can make the taste of banh xeo Hue different from other [versions],” she explains. “I, like Hue locals do, prefer to add mint leaves, star fruit or green mango to normal vegetables that are used in the north. The fresh mint and sour taste from the mango helps reduce the fatty richness of banh xeo.” “Even though it looks easy, making the crispy crepe filled with beansprouts, shrimp and pork is not simple,” she continues. “While preparing the batter, you cannot pour all of the water into the rice flour, instead, you have to gradually mix in the flour with the liquid. When achieving a sticky and smooth, condensed liquid, the batter is ready for a crispy crepe. “And then, while the batter is on the frying pan, the fire should be stable and the batter should be only be a thin layer on to the pan. You should not also add too much oil as it can make the crepe less crispy and brown.” Instead of using pork, as is often the case in Hanoi and Saigon, this lady chooses grilled meat the way Hue people do. She also orders a majority of ingredients from Hue every week so as to maintain the consistent flavour of her dish.

and sweet, which are obtained by the combination of 10 different ingredients. The secret to this delicious cake (banh xeo is called banh khoai in Hue which literally means delicious cake) is the thickened sauce with peanut butter. Many Hanoians love banh xeo Hue because of this sauce. However, while Hue locals prefer a spicy, sweeter taste and a thicker sauce, Hanoians prefer it to be thinner, less spicy and definitely less sweet. “I have had to make a slight change to the sauce by adding in a watery element,” she explains. “Some minor adjustments have also been made to balance and achieve a Hanoi-friendly translation of the Hue taste.” The dipping sauce is also used for other dishes, bun thit nuong, nem lui and pho cuon, dishes that add a nice touch of variety to this already attractive eatery. Even more unusual is that the proprietor was not even born in Hue. “Many people express their surprise when they know that I was born in Vinh Phuc,” she laughs. “People often think that only Hue locals can make Hue-like food. My belief is that when you love food enough, you can make it even better than the original.”

The Dipping Sauce

Banh Xeo Bun Thit Nuong 3 To Hien Thanh will be relocated to 5 To Hien Thanh, Hai Ba Trung, in the next two months. The shop is open from 8.30am to 10pm. Banh xeo costs VND20,000 a portion.

“To me, the dipping sauce is the soul of this dish,” she explains. The typical sauce used in Hue is a harmony of tastes: spicy, sour, bitter, salty

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City Guide BUSINESS LISTINGS 077 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 081 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 087 / LEISURE & arts LISTINGS 098 / fashion listings 104 / home LISTINGS 106 / medical LISTINGS 108 Photo by aaron joel santos

BUSINESS

LISTINGS

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public 080

corporate gifts 078

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Beverly Investment

Room 919, Suite 8, Song Da Building, Me Tri, Tu Liem Tel: 3794 9669 www.beverly.vn Professional investment company dealing with real estate resort, hotel and senior housing projects all over the country. Working to promote sustainable development, Beverly provides good value for its partners, investors, customers and society.

TMF Group

Unit 06-023, 6th Floor, Prime Center Building, 53 Quang Trung, Ha Dong 8th Floor, 53 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 9733 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 2660 Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC, Tel: 3910 2262 www.tmf-group.com TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

KPMG

16th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 1600 www.kpmg.com.vn Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also does executive search and selection.

A D D ITIONA L F E AT URE S

Business Buff 079 Music Buff 094 Book Buff 099 Cinema Buff 100 Travel Notes 103 Medical Buff 109 74 | Word March 2013

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive Ogilvy & Mather Tien Phong Newspaper Building, 15 Ho list of our listings 8/F Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3822 3914

Accounting & Auditing 077

Accounting & Auditing

PricewaterhouseCoopers

7th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3946 2246 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions and tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

Thang Long Auditing Company 23 Tran Duy Hung, Trung Hoa, Cau Giay Tel: 4976 2055 A Vietnamese company with more than 30 representative branches outside of Hanoi, Thang Long provides a full range of services, including audit, accounting, tax, corporate secretarial and business consultancy.

premiums; marketing; public relations & events. Clients include multi-national brands and NGOs.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited

2811, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: 3910 922 www.tmf-group.com With over 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide. TMF is expanding rapidly throughout the world. Learn more about our unique network and our services by visiting our website.

advertising & marketing Crunchy Frog

www.ogilvy.com International marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know-how with a worldwide network. Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity. 2nd floor, 63 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2246 0682 www.studiotada.com A small, young and elite designing and branding agency that has been working with well-known local and global brands like DMC, Hermes, Kenzo and Porsche. The company offers services in branding, event, print and digital. With a youthful, energetic and experienced team, Tada has played an important part in international graphic design and advertising projects across Vietnam and France.

10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co Street, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com Leonito develops marketing campaigns & behaviour change communications strategies for commercial brands and nongovernment organizations. Services: brand development; design & printing; gifts &

AmCham

M Floor, Business Center, Hilton Hanoi Opera, 1 Le Thanh Tong Tel: 3934 2790 www.amchamhanoi.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

T&A Ogilvy JVC Ltd.

British Business Group of Vietnam

Booz Allen Hamilton, Inc.

Leonito Marketing Consulting

business groups

AusCham

Level 8, 142 Le Duan, Dong Da www.red.tm Working from Vietnam to Australia, the Red team creates and shapes unique brand personalities to international and local brands. The team specialises in brand consultancy and marketing, regularly sharing industry trends, news and views at their blogsite, red.tm/blog.

Grey Group

10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com In addition to their own clients, Leonito works in partnership with the Grey Group, a major full-spectrum marketing and communications company with offices in nearly 100 countries. Services include research, branding, activations, events and public relations.

L3-14 Thuy Khue. Ba Dinh Tel: 3728 0776 www.t-cgroup.com A well-known Vietnamese conglomerate of companies operating since 1994, T&C’s focus is on providing internationalstandard consultation to engineering and infrastructure projects. They also provide market research consulting.

Red Brand Builders

3rd Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 6008 T&A is a marketing services company set up in Hanoi in 1995. Since then, they’ve offered their marketing services to several large overseas companies. They also work in co-operation with WPP, a world-wide brand communications firm.

Leonito

T&C Investment Holding

Studio Tada

8 Xom Chua, Tay Ho Tel: 01283 443579 www.crunchyfrogdesign.com Crunchy Frog is a personable and experienced western design and branding agency. They offer high quality creative and strategic solutions to both local and global clients. Services include research, brand and marketing strategy, and design of communications materials, brand identity, packaging and websites. 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.grey.com/vietnam Founded in 1917 in New York, Grey is a full spectrum global communications company offering branding, advertising, marketing, digital, and PR, with offices in 100 countries. Grey is the only agency with a specialised HoReCa team. In Vietnam, the client roster includes Nike, Vinaphone, Levis, TNT, ESPN, Bayer, Samsung Mobile, BaoViet, P&G, BAT, and 35 other top local and international brands.

tunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, stateowned and foreign.

business consulting Room 703, 7th Floor, MOF Project Building, No. 4, Lane 1, Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 9662 www.boozallen.com A US-based private consulting firm, Booz Allen Hamilton is one of the most notable names in the business. This firm has a long track record of assisting governments and multi-nationals in risk assessment and mission development.

Deloitte

8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da, Tel: 3852 4123 www.deloitte.com One of the Big Four, this firm offers a broad range of audit, tax, consulting, risk, and financial advice to businesses. Over 182,000 employees in more than 150 countries, Deloitte serve more than 80 percent of the world's largest companies, Vietnam now being one of them.

Dickerson Knight Group

33A Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 2692 www.thinkdkg.com Established in 1991, this international firm has extensive experience in emerging markets. Their speciality is in providing advisory and training products to private sector enterprises and NGOs.

Ernst & Young

Daeha Business Centre, 15th Floor, 360 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh, Tel: 4831 5100 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalize on oppor-

Room 2707, 1010 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 3562 5786 ext. 107 www.auschamvn.org An organisation bringing together Australian companies and individuals doing business in Vietnam, the Australian Chamber of Commerce offers advice on doing business. Also offers networking opportunities and social events.

193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0906 240159 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

Icham

Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3715 2393 www.icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the development of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.

Lac Viet Computing Corp

Hanico Building 110 Thai Thinh, Dong Da Tel: 3512 1846 www.lacviet.com.vn Since its founding in 1994, professional services and innovative solutions has led LAC VIET to a recognized position of leadership in Vietnam. LAC VIET employs more than 400 professionals in IT services and product development. LAC VIET is a certified MicrosoftTM Gold Partner; CiscoTM Premier Reseller; Dell Distributor and Authorised Service Provider(DASP).

CCIFV

Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2229 www.ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

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EuroCham

G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2228. www.eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

NordCham

Suite 504, Thanh Ha Building, Linh Dam Tel: 3641 6864 www.nordchamhn.org.vn Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

Singapore Business Association Vietnam

Business Center, Ground Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: 4772 0833 www.sbav-hanoi.org An association that actively fosters business relations with other business communities while promoting social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities.

Commercial Photography Noi Pictures

25/158 Ngoc Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3747 8611 noipictures@noipictures.com www.noipictures.com Photography and film agency specialising in commercial assignments, stock photography and production services in Vietnam. Has a number of mainly overseas photog-

Hanoi Websites hanoigrapevine.com

The place to go for all things related to the arts in a city that is developing its own, vibrant contemporary arts scene. Has event calendars, event postings, blogs, addresses and contact details, and covers anything from classical music through to installations, rock concerts and more.

infosharehanoi.com

Provides the expat community with essential information for living and working in Hanoi including comprehensive and up-to-date events listings as well as address lists of galleries, cinemas, theatres, hotels, housing agencies, embassies and much more. Subscribe to receive their weekly newsletter.

linkhanoi.com

Event photos, a what’s on calendar, restaurant and bar listings and in fact, pretty much everything you want to know about nightlife in Hanoi can be found on this popular website. Also organize regular events and parties.

newhanoian.com

The city’s best known website, The New Hanoian provides user-generated listings, reviews and event information on pretty much anything and everything in the capital. Register, create your profile, write a review and receive frequent newsletters.

wordhanoi.com

The online extension of The Word, contains both content from the print edition as well as blogs, events, news, a what’s on calendar, party photos and much more. Also has downloadable PDF versions of the whole publication.

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raphers in their books both in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

corporate gifts Regal Premiums

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 0685 7167 www.regalvietnam.com Regal Premiums produces trendy corporate gifts, premiums gifts, promotional gifts and branded mass giveaway items. Professional team helps with design to fit your brand and production and logistics to fit your budget.

housing & real estate CB Richard Ellis (Vietnam) Co., Ltd

6 Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 0220 www.cbrevietnam.com Finding the perfect accommodation to meet your various demands in Hanoi is made simple thanks to CBRE’s residential leasing team. Our services are inclusive of site finding, travelling fees, contract negotiation and resolving any other issues which arise during the term of the lease, all of which are free of charge for the tenant.

Colliers International Vietnam 9th floor, Vinaplast, Tai Tam Building, 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 5888 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represent property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management and support services. Attempt to accelerate the success of their clients by making their knowledge your property.

Creation

Room 802, Building 101, 101 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 2246 2232 A real estate company that provides both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Also offers free brokerage and many other support services.

Daluva Home

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.daluva.com/apartment Thoughtfully appointed and decorated, Daluva Home features a cosy bedroom for true rest, plus open living, dining, and work areas. Extras include two LCD TVs, iPod dock, and outdoor patio. Housekeeping, and daily breakfast from the Daluva Breakfast Menu are also included. Private car and tour booking service available.

Hanoi House Hunter

Quang Trung Building, Room 203, 39 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0983 336336 www.hanoihousehunter.com This company can assist you in finding an apartment that meets your living and budget requirements. Though they specialise in high-end, high-rise apartments, they do have a range of options. The website contains most listings.

Knight Frank

40 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem www.knightfrank.com UK real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sale, lease, management, price appraisal, counselling and market research.

Megaland

2nd Floor, 43 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5556 Specialising in meeting housing needs

of expatriates and overseas Vietnamese, Megaland offers a wide range of serviced apartments, villas and commercial spaces.

Savills Vietnam

6th floor, Sentinel Place, 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 1300 www.savills.com.vn A leading global real estate service provider listed on the London Stock Exchange with over 200 offices worldwide. Provides consultancy services, property management, space planning, facilities management, corporate real estate services, leasing, valuation and sales to the key segments of commercial, industrial, retail, residential and investment property.

Tan Long Housing

Moongate Building, 5th & 6th Floor, 107 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9864 www.tanlonghousing.com Tan Long has been concentrating on assisting individuals in the process of buying, selling and renting property in Hanoi since 1999. They also have several branch offices, and a useful website that can help to fill residential or commercial needs.

Three Temples

73B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 3366 www.threetemples.com Three Temples is a full-service, design-led property development and marketing company that specialises in creating residential addresses by providing high quality architecture, residential design, interior design, commercial consultancy, marketing and branding solutions. A onestop-shop to finance, design, brand and build for the finest residential products.

and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel, as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1 800 599 998.

Prudential

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3934 5999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centers throughout the country.

international schools Concordia International School Hanoi

CMC Tower, Duy Tan, Cau Giay Tel: 3795 8878 www.concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

Hanoi International School

48 Lieu Giai Boulevard, Ba Dinh www.hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

Vietnam Land

38 Phan Boi Chau Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3787 0188 Vietnam Land was incorporated in Vietnam in 2002 as a commercial and residential real estate services, real estate property management and real estate development company. Since that time Vietnam Land has successfully developed two residential towers at the Chelsea Park project in Hanoi and a residential land sales project in Hung Yen province called Villa Park.

insurance AIG

Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3936 1455 www.aig.com Offers a range of insurance products and services including property, casualty and marine exposure insurance. Also has comprehensive travel and accident coverage, as well as healthcare packages for expats residing in Vietnam.

IF Consulting

CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

Liberty Insurance

16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: 3755 7111 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises

International School of Vietnam

6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-for-profit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

KinderWorld International Kindergarten

Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra Tel: 3743 0306 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 7243 Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI International School of Hanoi

#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6418 www.hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

Singapore International school

2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, 726 1601, Block C3, Ciputra, Tel: 3758 2664 An international school with an excellent record in a host of countries around the world, now available to those in Hanoi within its salubrious surrounds in Ciputra.

United Nations International School (UNIS)

Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org With more than 800 students from 50 different countries, UNIS is a non-profit IB World School that instructs students from as young as three years old through to grade 12. Established in 1988 by agencies representing the United Nations, the pristine campus has a broad range of facilities and is located in the gated community of Ciputra.

investment & finance Dragon Capital

11th Floor, Hanoi Lake View Bldg, 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0203 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

Indochina Capital

Floors 9-9A, 60 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3930 6399 www.indochinacapital.com A leading investment firm operating in the ASEAN region with a particular focus on Vietnam. Assists partners, co-investors and clients to achieve financial objectives while focusing on four core areas: corporate finance and advisory services, investment management and real estate development.

Mekong Capital

company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is an investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

language schools Apollo

67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 2051 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers highquality and cost-effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres.

{business Buff} ** Unusual Ways to Make Money * * By Shane Dillon

British Council

20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 1922 www.britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

Cleverlearn

Building 3, 2C Diplomatic Compound, Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1698 www.cleverlearnvietnam.vn With two main schools in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Cleverlearn offers mainly conversational and business English courses. An authorised in iBT test site by the ETS.

Language Link Vietnam

62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3733 8402 www.languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

friend of a friend was recently paid $US1 million dollars for a phone application that they had conceived of and had made in China for a few hundred dollars. This got me thinking about other great ways people have made their fortune on what at first would seem like absurd ideas. So if the Year of the Dragon was not your thing, why not try one of the following in the Year of the Snake and turn your fortunes around.

Virtual Farming

VIT Tower, 18th Floor, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 2220 8979 The Vietnamese subsidiary of France’s Societe Generale, the company recently opened a Hanoi branch. This was the first financial company in Vietnam to focus entirely on consumer credit.

Suite 401, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3936 0990 Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

It is estimated that over one million Chinese make money from online gaming through making virtual currencies and selling them for real currency online. Recently it was discovered that North Koreans had done a more aggressive strategy that netted them over US$6 million in the last two years focusing on South Korean online games.

Total Wealth Management

Baker & Mckenzie

Pet Accessories

Frasers Law Company

A huge market in the US with a recent success story of a group that marketed UV protective Doggles (Goggles for Dogs). Any pet product that catches the market can make a fortune with Americans spending over US$310 million a year on pet costumes alone.

12th Floor, HAREC Building, 4A Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4888 www.mekongcapital.com A private equity firm which focuses on the growth equity of companies in the developing Vietnamese economy.

SG VietFrance

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 3820 0623. www.t-wm.com TWM provides information related to inter-country personal financial planning. They will walk you through the solutions and products available and will constantly monitor and manage your portfolio through opportunity and instability in global financial markets.

Viet Tin Financial Co.

1st & 2nd Floor, 40 Pho Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3941 1566 www.viet-tin.com A locally based securities and stock brokerage firm whose stated mission is to provide valued returns to partners and shareholders.

VinaCapital

5th Floor, Sun City Building, 13 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 4630 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management

legal services Allens

13th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 1428 www.bakernet.com One of the first international law firms to establish representative offices in Vietnam, Baker & McKenzie provide onthe-ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country. Unit 1205, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3946 1203 www.frasersvn.com As the first legal firm licensed as a foreign law company in Vietnam, Frasers provides legal advice on all areas of business and commerce within the country. They provide international legal advice in a Vietnamese context, and are ranked in the top tier of international law firms practising in this jurisdiction.

Web Services There are so many of these success stories whether it’s printing and making yourself a year book based off your Facebook photos or outsourcing your background design on MySpace, to the million

pixel/million dollar webpage experiment; there are people making a fortune off providing simple services for your online life. And of course there’s apps, with several entrepreneurs now coming up with ideas and having the software made cheaply in Asia.

Children Services Parents love to spend money on their children and one multimillion dollar idea was the guy who started the letters from Santa service where for US$10 he will write your child a reply from Santa posted from the North Pole. He now reportedly makes over a million dollars each Christmas. Fun online education and fitness games also seem to make a packet.

Whacky Ideas Some notable success stories are the pet rock to the lucky wishbone to the car antenna balls. These cheap and easily made ideas have huge margins and if they catch the market, make a fortune for their creators. So maybe it’s time to throw in that 9 to 5 job and start investing in your own brilliant ideas. With the internet and cheap outsourcing available, there is a whole world of people out there to market your ideas, too, and a fortune in online payments to make the Year of the Snake your year to shine. Shane works in financial services he can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn

March 2013 Word | 77

Freshfields Bruckhaus Deringer

#05-01 International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 7422 This law firm works in 19 countries and is one of the world’s largest. They regularly advise large clients on international investment, banking and finance.

Gide Loyrette Nouel A.A.R.P.I.

Pacific Place, Suite 505 – 507, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 2350 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 24 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services which combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

Rouse Legal (Hanoi Branch)

7th Floor, VIT Building, 519 Kim Ma, Dong Da Tel: 3577 0479 www.iprights.com Rouse is an international intellectual property law firm. From HCMC and Hanoi we advise on protection and enforcement of trade marks, patents, copyright and domain names; commercial IP, IP management/strategy.

Russin & Vecchi

11/F, Hanoi Central Office Bldg., Suite 1104, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3825 1700 A financial law firm which focuses on commercial and investment matters for corporate clients. In some cases they can provide assistance to individual clients.

management training British University Vietnam

193 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 7596 www.britishuniversity.edu.vn The first university offering prestigious UK degrees in Vietnam. Courses offered in 2010 include International Business Administration, Banking & Finance, Accounting & Finance, Marketing Management, Accounting & Business. Pre-university courses are also available.

G&H Management Services

HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh Tel: 3762 3805 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign-invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in-house programs to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic-based business and management programmes.

RMIT

Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1460. www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and longterm courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

market research Cimigo

142 Le Duan, Dong Da Tel: 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com www.cimigo.com Independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in Hanoi and the Asia Pacific region in general. Services include auditing and optimising research programs, knowledge manage-

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ment, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

Indochina Research

7th Floor, 73 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4661 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina. Focus is on developing partnerships that leverage their market knowledge and on enhancing their client’s competitive position in the region.

The Nielsen Company

3rd floor, 85 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 1161 www.nielsen.com Media company offering integrated marketing and media measurement information and analytics. Offers full service capability across qualitative, quantitative, media and retail measurement for FMCGs, consumer products, finance, telecoms and more.

Vinalink

11th Floor, Lang Ha Building, 14 Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: 3772 4234 www.vinalink.com Specialising in online survey-based market research, Vinalink is a subcontractor for a few global market research firms, including CALEB Global and Pulse Group.

public relations Media One

Rm 207, 40A Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3966 www.media-one.vn PR company with offices both in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Focuses mainly on the Telecom and IT industries, providing a range of services including events, product activation, consulting, marketing and advertising.

Pioneer Communications

Floor 6, 58 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3945 4398. www.pioneervn.com Pioneer Communications is one of the leading agencies in providing integrated marketing and public relations solutions for businesses and organiastions in Vietnam.

TQPR

HR2B

Suite A6, 3rd Floor, Horison Office Center, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3736 6843 www.hr2b.com The forte of this company is placing highly talented Vietnamese and expat candidates into executive positions at medium to large companies. Rapidly growing, in the past years they’ve added Coca Cola, DHL and Prudential to their client list.

Resident Vietnam

Manpower Vietnam

Santa Fe Relocation Services

12th Floor, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 4574 www.manpower.com.vn Established in Vietnam at the beginning of 2008, Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

Navigos Group

Suite 1401, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung , Tel: 3974 3033 www.navigosgroup.com Adept at solving human resource challenges through excellence in matching and management talent. Has offices in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

relocation & tracking agents Allied Pickfords

8 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 6275 2824 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

Asian Tigers Transpo

Inland Customs Depot Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: 3768 5882 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption to family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

Room 109, House K, 7, 2ha, Vinh Phuc Ward, Ba Dinh., Tel: 32474 028 www.tqpr.com One in a group of companies from Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, the company offers international standard consultancy services and value-added results to local, regional and global clients.

Crown Relocation Services

Venus Communications

No 17 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 4375 www.hanoihousing.vn A one-stop housing service that specialises in relocation, trained professionals can take care of housing rentals, short and long term as well as car rentals. They also have an extension showroom for furniture rental and custom furniture, making your transition as easy as possible.

4 Da Tuong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 7066 Well-known PR and communications company with offices in both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Offers the full range of PR, advertising and consultancy services.

recruitment & hr Aon Vietnam Limited

14th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0832 www.aon.com/vietnam Founded in Vietnam in 1994, among other things, Aon now concentrates on human capital consulting, assisting their clients with compensation, benefit analyses and outsourcing.

95E Ly Nam De, Ba Dinh , Tel: 3936 6741 www.crownrelo.com Offering both family and corporate relocation services locally and internationally, Crown prides themselves on being a kidfriendly company.

Image Group Housing

JVK Indochina Movers

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3826 0334 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Destination

3A Alley, 49 Huynh Thuc Khang Tel: 3773 7191 www.residentvietnam.com Established in 2000, Resident Vietnam was the first dedicated Expatriate Service Provider in Vietnam. Resident Vietnam provides full relocation and immigration management services to several multinational companies in Vietnam and ser vices the Global Mobility industry.

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Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Union Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0908 096222 sales@santaferelo.com.vn www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. We are proud to be the only moving company with both ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

25-48 passengers each for day trippers, providing cruise services for travelers with a mid-range budget. RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR GYM

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www.halongdreamhotel.com Close to the pier and the new bridge, what this hotel lacks in character is made up for in cleanliness and comfort. There are 184 rooms priced between VND2 million and VND6 million. Other facilities include indoor pool, health club and sauna.

nha trang 085 north-east 086 north-west 086 phan thiet / mui ne 086 phu quoc 086 sapa 086 tam dao 086 travel services 087

Halong Plaza

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$$$ 8 Halong Road, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: 0333 845810, www.halongplaza.com One of the many large tower-type hotels in Halong City, Halong Plaza has pretty much everything you’d expect from a 4-star hotel. 200 rooms, a bar and a restaurant that touts its seafood and barbecue.

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Novotel Ha Long Bay

serviced apartments

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$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness center with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relax lounge and VIP massage room.

Harbour View Hotel

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$$$ $$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, 4 Tran Phu, Hai Phong Quang Ninh. Tel: 0333 848108 Tel: 031 382 7827 www.novotelhalongbay.com www.harbourviewvietnam.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the Hai Phong’s most prestigious address, this beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close cool, retro French-colonial style property proximity to major attractions such as is the only international standard hotel in bay cruises and local markets. Featuring town. Designed with panache without be214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and ing pretentious, room rates at this 122-unit one professional spa with seven treatproperty start at around VND2.5 million. ment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including a Huu Nghi Hotel pool with swim-up bar overlooking the $$$ limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or 60A Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong family holidays. Tel: 031 384 2706 www.huunghihotel.vn Ocean Beach Resort One of the larger hotels in town, Huu Nghi $$$ offers some of the comforts you might www.oceanbeachresort.com.vn miss at the other places. In addition to the This resort is on a private island just off clean up-to-standard rooms, the hotel also of Cat Ba Island. Around VND600,000 will has a swimming pool and tennis courts. get you a comfortable room in a bungalow close to the beach. Fee also includes the Maxim Hotel boat ride from Cat Ba. For more informa$$ tion check on the web. 3K Ly Tu Trong, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 374 6540 New and tidy, with cable TV and airPeace Hotel conditioning, Maxim is one of the best $ mini hotels in town. Rooms are small 39 Vuon Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh but have good modern conveniences like Tel: 0333 846009 satellite TV and new, clean bathrooms Found just outside Halong City on Bai done in designer tiles. Room rates around Chay beach, this is clean, honest accomVND250,000 to VND300,000 a night. modation for a reasonable price. Located on “Hotel Alley”, there are a lot of options Monaco Hotel here. The rooms are fairly well looked 103 Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong after and clean. You can usually get one Tel: 031 374 6468 for under VND400,000, but prices vary One of the more modern hotels on Dien depending on the season. Bien Phu Street, the prices here are competitive and it’s possible to request a room Princes Hotel with a kitchen. Standards with aircon and $ a TV start at VND350,000 per night. Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Tel: 0313 888899 This is one of the better hotels on Cat hanoi – international Ba Island. Large, clean rooms with all the modern conveniences, as well as a Crowne Plaza West Hanoi restaurant and a popular bar. The front $$$ desk can also arrange tailor-made tours Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem around the bay. Tel: 6270 6688. www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property. This Royal Hotel 24-storey mixed-use complex lies next to $$$$ My Dinh National Stadium and close to 66 Pho Ha Long, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh the National Convention Centre. Boasting Tel: 0333 848999. www.royalhalong.com 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two The four-star Royal Hotel boasts villas, swimming pools and a spa and fitness well-landscaped gardens and a pool, all centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the overlooking Halong Bay. Just two minutes best meetings and conference facilities walk from Bai Chay, the property has a in town. resort feel and the rooms are housed in several buildings. If you’re feeling lucky, Daewoo Hotel there’s also a ‘Gaming Club’. $$$ 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 5555 hai phong www.hanoi-daewoohotel.com This enormous structure offers the most Bach Dang Hotel modern of amenities, and with four restau$$ 42 Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 384 2444 rants and two bars, the events staff is well bachdanghotelhp@hn.vnn.vn equipped to handle any occasion. Close to One of the best of the town’s best budget the National Convention Center, and a CREDIT CREDITCARD CARD CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING GYM GYM

dalat

Atlanta Residences

49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0912 239085 www.atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

Blue Moon Hotel Resort and Spa

$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and modern amenities, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa, and prices to match.

Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic hotel, but it’s right in the middle of town.

danang

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$ 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private place has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from $10 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

Daluva Home

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5831 Whether traveling or on a temporary stay, Daluva can provide space & comfort. Thoughtfully appointed Daluva Homes feature a cozy bedroom for true rest, and an open living area that opens up to a terrace with plants.

Trung Cang Hotel

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat , Tel: 063 382 2663 You get door-to-door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the

Fraser Suites

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 8877 http://hanoi.frasershospitality.com Great location in Syrena Tower on West Lake, Fraser Suites offer a tranquil repose from the busy city. Has several apartments with excellent views and provides gold-standard service.

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Danang Beach Resort

$$$ Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Coastal Street Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son, Tel: 0511 396 1800 With six different styles of villa units that offer views of the ocean, the mountains and a green of a golf course, the Danang Beach Resort is one of the most luxurious places to stay in this much overlooked city. The property also offers 33-storey twin towers housing a five-star hotel and golf courses adding up to 36 holes. CREDIT CREDITCREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$ 47 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three-night tours are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

34B Tran Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0030 www.mayfair-hanoi.com A building with a great location, and some of the largest apartments you’ll find. The Mayfair is popular among the diplomatic and international business communities.

VND651,000 to VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 to VND3,171,000

$$$$ Above VND3,171,000

ICONS 101

Sedona Suites

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Somerset Grand Hanoi

$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude-cruises.com This reproduction of a 19th-century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in impeccably maintained cabins. The great food and service adds to the already beautiful setting. They also offer transfers directly from Hanoi.

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Hai Long Junks, Halong bay

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Emeraude Classic Cruises

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No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 0888 www.sedonahotels.com.sg 175 well-designed, furnished apartments and villas combining the comforts of home with the conveniences of a fine hotel.

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Bhaya Cruises, Halong Bay

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halong & cat ba $ Halong Commune, Van Don , Tel: 0333 793156 Stay in a beachside bungalow or a traditional resort-style hotel on the shores of Van Don Island. Bai Tu Long Bay is situated just up the coast from Halong City. The staff here can help you arrange tours that will offer scenery a bit different than the standard tours of Halong Bay.

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Bai Tu Long Ecotourism Resort

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Mayfair

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 2342 www.somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24-hour reception and central location.

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hotels, the aircon old but clean rooms come in all shapes and sizes and have satellite TV, a fridge and a mini bar. The front-desk staff speaks English and can help sort out any travel arrangements. Rates from around VND250,000 per night.

32 Anh Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846099 Hai Long Junks is one of the three largest cruise operators in Halong Bay. The company boasts 11 overnight cruise vessels with a total of 160 cabins and 15 traditional junks with capacities from

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March 2013 Word | 79

{ travel Promos }

favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

Fortuna Hotel Hanoi

$$$ 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH

Photos by: Lucas Jans

Golden Silk Boutique Hotel

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969, www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) and daily replenished minibar and snacks service in every room. Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare, and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails. CREDIT

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Hanoi Hilton

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 0500, www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this fivestar is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top-end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area.

Eden Resort You don’t need to be newly-weds to enjoy Eden’s Honeymoon Package, but it sure helps! For VND13,230,000++ a happy couple can spend three wonderful nights at Eden’s gorgeous Phu Quoc resort, champagne, a couple’s massage and a candle-lit dinner. The promotion runs through Mar. 31. edenresort.com.vn Unique Resort Although every visit to Mui Ne feels like a special occasion, make your next visit really romantic with Unique’s Honeymoon Package, three nights in a magical ocean-front suite for VND7,540,000++. Quaff complimentary champagne, bask in the candle light of a complimentary dinner and sniff the roses presented on welcome, as long as you book before Mar. 31. muineuniqueresort.com Mercure Danang March is duck month at Mercure Danang, with a whole Hong Kong duck clocking in at VND380,000++ until Mar. 31. And after you’ve stuffed your belly, take on the 170-minute pamper spa package for VND1.5 million net — a steam and soak followed by a sesame seed scrub and body massage. mercure-danang.com

80 | Word March 2013

Pullman Hotel

VietStar Resort Tuy Hoa loses some of the lazier southern tourists to Nha Trang, its coastal cousin 120km closer to Ho Chi Minh City. For those willing to invest slightly more time into the trek, VietStar Resort and Spa will reward the extra effort with a two-night spa package, available until Mar. 31. Included are complimentary breakfasts, daily spa treatment, daily choice of lunch or dinner, and transportation all around the beautiful Phu Yen region — VND3,339,000 per room, per night. vietstarresort.com Mia Resort A weekend in Mui Ne puts you in a relaxed frame of mind, at least until the doof doof scene starts up around nightfall. So, take a calculated risk by heading to Mia Resort’s yoga and meditation retreat, led by California-bred yogi Suzanne Vian on the weekend of Mar. 15 to Mar. 17. Weekend rates inclusive of food, accommodation and transportation start at US$460, on a double-occupancy basis. For more information email suzvian@gmail.com. miamuine.com

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0808, www.pullman-hanoi.com A recent refit and a change of management — this property is now run by the Accor group — have given this 250-room hotel the sparkle that it had once lost. Good quality deluxe rooms and suites, a cavernous but contemporary looking lobby, an excellent buffet and a la carte restaurant, and a sleek image that would be at home anywhere in the world, this business traveller-orientated property is also close enough to the Old Quarter to make it a great stopping off point for anyone wanting to explore Hanoi.

Hotel de l’Opera

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$$$$ 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555, contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

InterContinental Hanoi Westlake

$$$$ 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental.com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.

Marigold Hotel CREDIT

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$$$ 17A Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com A contemporary boutique hotel a stone’s throw from Hang Cot in the Old Quarter. Colonial era accents throughout and an oriental themes lobby. 32 upmarket rooms and an intimate top class restaurant make this a strong contender in an area with plenty of competition.

Melia Hanoi

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$$$$ 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3934 3343, www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

Mercure Hanoi La Gare

$$$ 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3944 7766 When your train arrives from Sapa at 5am, you will be overjoyed if your bed is just across the street from the station in one of the 102 spacious rooms at this smart hotel. A stone’s throw from both the Old Quarter and the Temple of Literature, Mercure Hanoi boasts a French brasserie, an internal courtyard, a fitness centre and a retail outlet of wine importer and distributor Da Loc. CREDIT

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$$$$ 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3822 2800, www.moevenpick-hanoi.com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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Thang Long Opera Hotel

$$$ 1C Tong Dan Street, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 4775 www.thanglongopera.com This hotel houses 71 spacious, comfortable rooms all equipped with high speed internet, bath tub and room service. They have a meeting room, which can accommodate up to 60 people, as well as a restaurant and bar downstairs. CREDIT

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hanoi – mid-range 6 on Sixteen

16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

Zephyr

Giabao Hanoi & Giabao Grand

$$$ 38 & 23 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2222 Two mid-range hotels situated in the heart of Hanoi,just 150 meters from Hoan Kiem Lake. Built using a blend of western and oriental architecture, the properties have 28 and 35 rooms respectively, all with mod-cons. For a bit more luxury stay at the Giabao Grand. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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Golden Lotus Hotel

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$$ 32 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8583 www.goldenlotushotel.com.vn The interesting arty decor of this place is a bonus, as is its value for money – it’s not often you pay under VND1 million for a modern hotel room slap bang in the middle of town. Try to get a front room (with balcony) to look out over the bustling Old Quarter. They’ve also opened a second Golden Lotus just down the street at number 39.

Hanoi Spring Hotel II

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$$ 44 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 3667 www.camellia-hotels.com Basic rooms and friendly service at this well-known hotel. One of six properties of the same name in Hanoi, internet terminals are located in the lobby, and the property also offers a host of tour itineraries. Rooms vary in price from VND500,000 to VND700,000. Some of their other locations are more budget-friendly.

Hanoi Backbacker’s Hostel $

48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

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$$$ 4 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3934 1256 www.zephyrhotel.com.vn A mid-size boutique hotel with a prime location, Zephyr offers a range of packages and special offers on rooms that are clean and stylish. The lobby boasts a coffee house and restaurant with both Asian and Western Cuisine.

Camellia Hotel

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hanoi – budget

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Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi

Sheraton

to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

Hong Ngoc Hotel

$$$ 34 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5053 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact, with small but clean bathrooms, and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi-Fi connections available. Some of the locations include sauna, steam bath and fitness facilities

Little Hanoi Hotel

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$ 58 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 8648 www.littlehanoihotel.com Spacious rooms with ADSL broadband connections starting at around VND600,000 a night. The rooms at the front are more expensive, and breakfast is included. The staff speak good English and are very helpful. Has a number of sister hotels in town, two of which are located next to the cathedral. The third is on Tue Tinh, close to Lenin Park. Check the website for details.

ho chi minh city Caravelle Hotel

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 , Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top

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$$ 38 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 8500 www.hanoispringhotel.com One of the only hotels in the Old Quarter to have a balcony with each room, this new boutique is middle of the range but feels higher. Run by Australian expats and partners with a wealth of experience in the hotel industry, expect great service. Awesome western breakfasts and Vietnamese lunch and dinners. The top floor honeymoon suite has perfect views of St Josephs Cathedral.

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$$$$ K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9000, www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919 ww.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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Joseph’s Hotel

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$$$$ 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888

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Maison D’Hanoi Hanova Hotel

$$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem Lake, this boutique hotel is fitted with 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have wi-fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.5 million for a guest room to VND4.5 million for a suite. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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May de Ville

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Sofitel Plaza Hanoi

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$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com, www.josephshotel.com Just to the side of St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a well-appointed, comfortable boutique hotel. Brightly decorated, the property’s 10 rooms have Wi-Fi, flatscreen TV and a mini bar. Prices start at VND650,000 a night. No smoking except for on the upstairs balconies.

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$$$ 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition

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100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth-floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

Continental

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$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental-saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the best of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

Equatorial

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Big and businesslike, with seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also boasts the biggest banquet facilities in the city.

Guest House California

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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1 Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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$$$$ 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Luxury accommodation with a stylish club Lounge boasting panoramic views, as well as the finest meeting and banquet facilities in town – all designed with the savvy traveller in mind. The 21-floor tower includes 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a Presidential Suite. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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Lan Lan Hotel 2

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106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912 094464

Phung Motorbike Rental & Sales 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 253491 phungmoto@ovi.com Well-maintained motorbikes for hire at reasonable rates, plus servicing and repairs for modern and vintage bikes.

Quan’s Motorbike & Bicycle Rentals 70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 244941 Standard rental shop doing hire by the day and by the month.

Vietnam Motorcycle Adventures 36 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem (down alley in between No. 34 & No. 36) Tel: 3904 5049 Bespoke motorbike tours, rental of automatic and manual bikes plus repairs.

VIP Bike Rentals 64, Alley 71 Tan Ap, Tay Ho (off Tan Ap Street, close to Sofitel Plaza) Tel: 0914 931390 Bike rentals and repairs. Good reputation. Formerly part of the Blue Dragon Foundation.

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1. Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid-range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

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Park Hyatt

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1. Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous-looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation and the Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

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Ramana Hotel

Mr Cao Motorbike Rental

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New World

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InterContinental Asiana Saigon

Renaissance Riverside

$$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus one of the best-regarded Chinese restaurants in the city. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first-class facilities topped by an open-air restaurant 23 floors above the city. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com True class on an attractive (and historic) CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asia n restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

hoi an & danang Cua Dai

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family-run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air-conditioned rooms and pleasant staff.

Furama Resort & Spa

$$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort

$$$$ Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang Tel: 0511 393 8888, info@icdanang.com www.intercontinental.com/danang With its own private bay on the Son Tra Peninsula, the Bill Bensley-designed InterContinental Danang is nestled within one of the region’s most exquisite locations. All 197 of the resort’s rooms, suites and beachfront villas are designed to take full advantage of their location and panoramic South China Sea views. Large terraces and shuttered windows elevate private living spaces that draw in the surrounding jungle and crystal bay, and add depth to the already large rooms that start from 70sqm.

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3. Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A 4-star business class hotel, The Ramana Hotel boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a Business Centre, a well-equipped Fitness Room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club, The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2 km from the city centre and 3 km from the airport.

Sheraton

street, offering a mix of rooms and suites, top-notch facilities, and restaurant cuisine which can match anything in the city. Without a doubt one of the nicest places to stay in the city.

Huy Hoang 1

$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

Life Resort Hoi An

Ana Mandara Hue

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$$$$ Thuan An Town, Phu Vang District, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam, Tel: 08 6291 3030 sales1@anamandarahue-resort.com www.hotelcollectionindochine.com Located on Thuan An Beach, a 20-minute drive from central Hue, the five-star Ana Mandara is the only beach resort with pool villas in the area. The property has a total of 78 rooms and villas, including beach pool villas, beach villas, duplex rooms and deluxe rooms in a wide range of styles and decor designed with modern facilities. Offers private rice paddy dinners, beach BBQs and cruises through the local fish farms.

Guesthouse Van Xuan

$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6561 An excellent option for those on a tight budget, with a comfortable room plus balcony and satellite TV coming in at around VND200,000. An additional bonus is the pleasantness of the staff.

Imperial Hue

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high-rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million ++ for a deluxe city view room.

La Residence

Mai Chau Lodge

has an on-site spa.

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$$$ Tel: 0218 386 8959, www.maichaulodge.com If real comfort is what you want, this is surely the best bet in Mai Chau. The rooms are modern and classy, with room service, sauna and internet connections. The newly built Water Lily Cottage offers a luxury version of the house on stilts. Give a call for exact directions, or you can check their website. CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING GYM GYM

Sun Spa Resort

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com This top-end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh, about 150 miles from Hue. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

mai chau & hoa binh Communal Guest House 1

$$$ Poom Village, Mai Chau, Tel: 0912 320990 One of the larger stilt houses in Poom Village, the bamboo floor you can expect to sleep on is more comfortable than you might expect, and this house has a pleasant view of a lotus pond. Like at all the other stilt houses here, drink and dance can be arranged.

La Ferme du Colvert

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam-aventure.com This eco-village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in ten houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

Mai Chau Guesthouse

At the farthest end of town, Mai Chau Tel: 0218 386 7262 This hotel seems to offer bare-bones amenities, but if you don’t fancy sleeping on the rattan floor of a stilt house, this is a couple good steps above, and the rooms are quite inexpensive. Be prepared for the noise from the karaoke bars which surround the place.

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Mai Chau Nature Place

House 38, Ban Lac Village, Tel: 3938 1443 www.maichaunatureplace.com A perfect mix between a home-stay experience and comfortable hotel. The private rooms are beautifully quaint while the communal sleeping option is more typical of rural lodges. Both options come with modern and clean bathrooms, traditional home-cooked meals, free bicycles and friendly, in-the-know, staff.

Ngoc Bach

$$$$ House 100, Quarter 2, Mai Chau, Tel: 0218 386 7340 If a sturdy bed is what you crave, this might be your answer. The rooms are large and clean, with a working television and shower with hot water. Might not be the Hilton, but for an aching back it’s a step above a bamboo floor and a mat.

nam dinh & ninh binh Cuc Phuong Guest House

$$$$ 396 Quoc Lo 14, Dong Xoai, Binh Phuoc Tel: 0651 387 9764 Accommodation here is quite basic, but this place offers a good deal in relation to the other places around, if you want a place to sleep before a long day of park touring.

Cuc Phuong National Park

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Park accommodation, in modern rooms,

stilt houses and detached bungalows, includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms available at park hq, the park centre, and on the road linking the two.

Thanh Thuy Guest House

$ 128 Le Hong Phong, Ninh Binh, Tel: 030 387 1811 Refurbished in 2004, this has big, clean rooms that are great value for the money. There is an in-house restaurant that will make it redundant to eat elsewhere. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND400,000 for a double deluxe room. The staff speak very good English.

Thuy Anh Hotel

$$ 55A Truong Han Sieu, Ninh Binh. Tel: 030 387 1602 This hotel is slightly more expensive than its neighbors, but the reason is apparent once you walk in. The rooms in the newer building are especially nice and, together with the better than decent restaurant downstairs, this one can make for a good stop over.

nha trang

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Novotel Nha Trang

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com This stylish four-star hotel is centrally located on the main street of the resort city of Nha Trang. Along with 154 modern rooms, each with terrace and a stunning sea view, Novotel Nha Trang offers a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room catering for up to 200 delegates. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason-anamandaranhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa-style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING

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$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang). Tel: 058 362 2384 On a secluded – almost deserted – CREDIT CARD

Six Senses Hideaway Ninh Van Bay

$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa. Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six-Senses-HideawayNinh-Van-Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top-drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at VND15 million++ for a beach pool villa.

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Evason Ana Mandara and Six Senses Spa

Jungle Beach Resort

promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick-up from Nha Trang and the down-to-earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

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Sao Mai Hotel

99 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 7412 Try to get a seaview room with private balcony at this friendly and very cheap hotel, which also has a rooftop terrace. Rooms have basic but adequate facilities and it is well located.

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la-residence-hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark-stained wood furnishings, this is traditional Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life-resorts.com Recently refurbished after a recent flood, this award-winning resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

The Nam Hai

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$$$ Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com If you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional-looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood. CREDIT CREDITCREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000, www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, the Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, preprogrammed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

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Le Domaine de Tam Hai

Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Pull up some (private) beach and relax, at

Phuong Hoang Hotel

$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub-VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

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$$$$ 130 Minh Mang, Hue, Tel: 054 388 5461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com A collection of rustic villas located in the countryside close to Hue and its historical landmarks. Villas range from the traditional Vietnamese pool house to the family bungalow. The boutique, imperial-era Vietnam styled resort also holds cooking classes, makes tour arrangements and

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Sunrise Beach Resort

Khach San Dien Bien Phu

$$ 849 Duong 7-5, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 382 5103 Pretty much what it sounds like: a Dien Bien Phu guest house. Rooms are made for sleeping and not much else, but at good prices. Cleanliness and comfort are acceptable and about average for this type of establishment.

$$$ 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Luxury boutique hotel in the city centre and right across from the beach is well geared up for the family and business trade, with kids’ room, beach recreation, restaurants offering Japanese, Vietnamese and European cuisine, pool bar, beach bar, sky bar and a Qi spa. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$ 4 Duong, 26-8 Rd, Son La, Tel: 022 385 5313 The explanation of the name is a mystery, but with 100 rooms it could probably house a mid-size union. Not the cheapest place in town, but the rooms are extra large and fairly well-kept. If you want to spend some time with satellite television, this is your place. Price range is VND500,000 to VND600,000, breakfast included.

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$ 1 Kim Dong, Cao Bang. Tel: 026 385 3431 A large, government-run hotel popular with tour groups. Rooms are super-sized, with big windows and some even have views. They also take credit cards, which might not be expected here. Room rates are around VND400,000.

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$ 84 Pho Tran Dang Ninh, Lang Son, Tel: 025 387 0349 This place offers basic accommodation at a good price. Don’t expect too much, but as an en route stop-over, Hoang Nguyen will definitely do.

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$ 14 Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang, Tel: 0219 386 1288 The large, comfortable sleeping quarters here may come as a surprise in these parts. But these are the things that have made Huy Hoan so popular. Several tour groups use the place as a stopover, and the staff is adept at fulfilling their needs. CREDIT

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322 www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim-up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar. One of the better appointed resorts in the area. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com The first all-villa luxury boutique resort in Vietnam, the Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four-hour drive from Ho Chi Minh Ciry and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and a 24-hour butler service, this is one of the most luxurious resorts in the country. Definitely one of the most exclusive. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$ Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang. Tel: 0219 386 3019 One of the first guesthouses you see as you arrive in town, location has made this guesthouse a popular stop off point. The sleeping accommodations are clean and comfortable, enough to enjoy a good night’s sleep and shower.

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$ V159 Vuon Cam, Cao Bang, Tel: 026 385 7026 Thanh Loan is a smaller hotel with more attention paid to the details. Still, expect basic accommodation, but, all said, a good bargain.

Thai Nguyen Hotel

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2 Hoang Van Thu, Thai Nguyen, Tel: 0280 385 2803 Your standard two-star establishment, Thai Nguyen is one of the best (and one of the only) choices in the vicinity. It’s quite a large hotel considering its location, so booking shouldn’t be a problem.

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Shades Apartments

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$$$ 2 Hoang Van Thu, Lai Chau. Tel: 0231 387 5829 Offers reasonable guesthouse-style rooms with air conditioning, some of them with balconies. Take a look at the rooms before you rent as the quality may vary.

La Veranda

Topas Ecolodge

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7440 Much more than its name suggests, with beautiful landscaped tropical gardens leading onto a stretch of pristine beach and an outdoor bar, well-positioned to make the best of the scenery. Has a mix of comfortable rooms and bungalows, and has recently done some

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Victoria Sapa

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc. Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco-friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around. Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up excellent food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea. CREDIT CARD

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Phu Quoc Resort Thang Loi

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522, www.victoriahotels-asia.com Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from $135 to $250 per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in-room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow-style resort, which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid-back and simple. And cheap.

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$ Khu Nhi Mat, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4315 A big new hotel, Green World has 100 CREDIT CREDITCARD CARD

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$ 7 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 1243 Despite being in the centre of town, some of the back rooms offer nice views. There is also a good French-style restaurant downstairs, which is what you might expect considering the décor and name. Prices vary, but a room should generally cost around VND400,000. CREDIT CREDITCARD CARD

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Don’s Restaurant 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2828 Have two Vietnamese bicycles for rent and well as a tandem. Great lake-side location. Pricey.

Mr. Trung No. 10, Ngo 175 Hong Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 0903 232888 A large number of old mountain bikes for rent. Located close to Long Bien Bridge. Good repair service.

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$$ Cat Cat Road. Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces. CREDIT CARD

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$ Km 6 Sapa, Ban Ho Road Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: 020 3872 130 www.hmongmountainretreat.com A large stilt house, five clay-clad bungalows and one 70-year-old Hmong House is what waits for you amid the rolling hills of Lao Cai, 6km outside of Sapa. The eco-resort’s team are all local and will help you enjoy

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$ Khu 1 Thi, Tam Dao, Tel: 0211 382 4208 Another one of the newer hotels in Tam Dao, Hang Khong caters mainly to Vietnamese tourists. But the price is right, hovering around VND500,000. Many of the rooms have balconies, but all have comfortable beds and hot showers. CREDIT CARD

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$ Khu I Thi, Tam Dao, Tel: 0211 382 4282 Just your basic hotel, but if what you want is a bed and satellite television, this is your place. Can’t beat the price at around VND200,000. Beware, though, prices are subject to change. CREDIT CARD

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$$ Thi Tran, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4321 Probably the prime place to stay in Tam Dao, the Mela has a swimming pool that might come in handy if you’re in the mountains to escape the heat of Hanoi summer. Rooms are comfortable and clean, with two double beds and balcony. The staff can assist if you want to explore the natural surroundings. Prices between VND800,000 and VND1.6 million. CREDIT CARD CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR CARD CARD

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Quan's Motorbike & Bicycle Rentals 70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 244941 Well-maintained bicycles and motorbikes for rent. Located in the Old Quarter close to Hoan Kiem Lake.

The Hanoi Bicycle Collective 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 8246 Well-maintained selection of bicycles for hire at the best prices in town, plus guided tours and all services you might need went to rent a bicycle. Rental available by day, week or month.

LISTINGS

Handspan Travel

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travel services 7 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 0615; 21 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 3449; Crowne Plaza, 36 Le Duc Tho, Tu Liem Tel: 6265 4558 www.asianatravelmate.com An active supporter of the Loreto Program, AsianaTravel is a tourist information company that offers a wide range of customised itineraries, and reservations throughout Indochina. Have daily departure tours available in Saigon, Hue and Hanoi.

Buffalo Tours Agency (BTA)

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$$ 18 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 1075 One of the best things about the Bamboo Hotel is the view, so make sure you check out the room first – some are better than others. There is aircon if needed, but you might want to ask for extra blankets in winter, in spite of electric heaters. Rooms here are between VND700,000 and VND1 million a night. The premium here is on the views. CREDIT CARD

Hang Khong Hotel

Out & About

parks, waterfalls and spectacular scenery are all part of the mix, with part of the proceeds going to a number of responsible tourism initiatives.

Asian Travel Mate

tam dao

Green World Hotel

sapa Auberge Hotel

rooms ranging in price from VND400,000 to VND600,000 a night. Because of its height, the top rooms have nice views of the town and surroundings. There is a restaurant and bar with billiards, and internet in the lobby.

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas-eco-lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco-cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

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Hmong Mountain Retreat

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$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773 982888 / 3823 7645 (Sales office) www.laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, La Veranda has beautifully-designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all-natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

The Sailing Club

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$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla-resort.com Open since Nov. 2008, this 37-bungalow resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first-class spa treatment and a mediterranean-themed restaurant.

Chen La Resort and Spa

Cat Cat Guesthouse

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Sapa Rooms

$$ 18 Phang Xi Pan, Sapa. Tel: 020 6505 228 www.saparooms.com Located in the heart of Sapa town this simple but comfortable boutique hotel occupies an unprecedented corner location overlooking the terraced valleys of Sapa and not far from the energy of the local market. Rooms are decorated with antique hardwood furniture and contemporary artwork from local artists with touches of ethnic minority culture.

$$$ Tel: 062 743 237, www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach, with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and dining options. CREDIT CARDCREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING

Huyen Tran Guest House

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the surroundings of the Muong Hoa Valley.

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Princess d’Annam Resort & Spa

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Phan Thiet / Mui Ne

57D Thanh Tam, Lang Son. Tel: 025 371 0479 Although it may be a bit hard to communicate with the staff if you’re Vietnamese isn’t up to snuff, they are eager to help. The rooms are exceptionally nice for the area.

Sao Mai Hotel

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$ 53 Duong 26 – 8, Son La, Tel: 022 385 8798 Sunrise makes for a decent stay for those travelling between Hanoi and Dien Bien Phu. In relation to the other hotels on the road, the rooms are very clean and the staff helpful. A night here will run around VND400,000.

Hoang Son Hai

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refurbishment. Offers quad-biking, kitesurfing, paragliding and, of course, sailing.

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$$ 25 Pho 1, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 381 0043 This Soviet-era hotel has a unique style that makes it one of the most visited. So, despite its size, it may be a good idea to book in advance. There’s a charge for the swimming pool, even if you’re staying there. But, hey, there’s a pool. The rooms are better than average and have satellite TV.

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. Onsite seafood restaurant and bar.

Bang Giang Hotel

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94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi Tel: (84-4) 3 828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the time-consuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.

bar & nightclubs 087 cafes 089 restaurants — french 090 restaurants — indian 090 restaurants — international 091 restaurants — italian 092 restaurants — japanese & korean 093

HG Travel

47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

Indochina Land

61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

Intrepid Travel Vietnam

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam's people, cuisine, history and culture.

Syrena Cruises

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

17 Cowboys+ AC AC

26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 2150 9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 5555 www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

Tel: 01282 273717 www.sapasisters.webs.com The best trekking guides in Sapa showing you the key spots with the guarantee of an unforgettable experience. Sapa Sisters aims to empower young H’Mong women and give them fair pay for their skilled services. Read their reviews on Trip Advisor..

Vietnam in Focus

info@vietnaminfocus.com vietnaminfocus.com A photography tour company based in Hanoi, organising workshops and tours in the capital, as well as photographic adventures across northern Vietnam. Tour leader Colm Pierce's pictures have featured in numerous publications worldwide, such as The Guardian (UK), Le Figaro (France) and LA Times (US). Check out the website forinfo on upcoming workshops and photography tours. AC

Freewheelin Tours

2nd floor, 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2743 www.freewheelin-tours.com Responsible travel tourism company offering intimate, bespoke tours that give customers a more “authentic” taste of Vietnam. Motorbike journeys, homestays, visits to ethnic minority villages, national AC

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MUSIC HALL/LONG BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 6822 www.seventeencowboys.com 5pm to 12am Cowgirls, lasers, belly dancing and Filipino bands who never shy away from a good Guns N' Roses cover. Drinks are a little pricey, but part of the money is going to the show. Expect a lively atmosphere and the band will take requests, but 1980s rock tunes are favoured.

Bamboo Bar

WIFI

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columns music buff 094

Café Blue Note

HAPPY HAPPYHOUR HOUR

Restaurants — SINGAPOREAN 094 restaurants — sE asian 094 restaurants — vietnamese 095 restobars 096

place for a sundowner or a morning coffee. Eclectic and like nothing else in Hanoi.

Bars & Nightclubs

LIVE MUSIC

LOUNGE BAR 61A Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Located on the upstairs portion of Mix III lounge and café, Blue Note features dimly lit, blue lighting and a balcony area that overlooks the streets of the Old Quarter. The interior is decorated with elegant red, velvet chairs and photographs of vintage jazz artists along the walls—giving the place a vintage, musical feel to accompany your conversations. The bar is a promising small venue, equipped with a small stage and piano.

CLASSIC FRENCH Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 7am to 10pm Set up like a traditional colonial-era bar space with dark wooden plank flooring, bamboo roofing, wicker chairs and handheld fan crafted ceiling fans, both during the day and at night there is a relaxed, timeless ambience here. The drinks focus here is on Martini-based and classic cocktails with a huge wine list and aged spirits also making an appearance. Also a great place for a morning or afternoon coffee.

Cama ATK++

Bar Betta

Cheeky Quarter+

++ AC AC

WIFIWIFI

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ICONS 101 WIFI

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LIVE MUSIC

Delivery DELIVERY

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Live Music LIVE MUSIC

LIVE MUSIC

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LIVE MUSIC

Happy Hour LIVE MUSIC

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LIVE MUSIC

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++ ACLIVE ACMUSIC

WIFILIVE WIFIMUSICSMOKING SMOKING DJ

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LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 032829 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

Airconditioning AC

ACAC

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven. AC

DELIVERY DELIVERY 2 2 HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR LIVELIVE MUSIC MUSIC LIVELIVE MUSIC MUSIC

RETRO CAFÉ BAR 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 9134 haimtc@gmail.com 8am to midnight This bar is every bit as quirky as the Czech moped it’s named after. Inside every surface is festooned with a medley of objects ranging from gramaphones to retro TVs. The rooftop terrace is an awesome

The Sapa Sisters

Exotissimo

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

HAPPY HOUR

LIVE MUSIC

Chime Bar

Level 1, Sheraton Hanoi Hotel K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9000 restaurant.hanoi@sheraton.com sheraton.com/hanoi Chime bar is the perfect spot for a refreshing glass of wine and a bite to eat. Offering a wide selection of tapas dishes in a lounge atmosphere, this is a great space to unwind, while listening to some soothing jazz to wash your blues away.

LIVE MUSIC

March 2013 Word | 85

DJ DJ

DRAGONFLY AC

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LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC

EZ Rider AC AC

AC WIFI WIFI

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SMOKING DELIVERY DELIVERY

+ +

DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY AC 22

DJ DJ

LIVE MUSIC

POOL HALL / LIVE MUSIC / CLUB 55 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 1788 8am to midnight A potential gem in the heart of the Old Quarter. While it’s themed to the Easy Rider vibe out front, this huge two-storey venue is a jack of all trades – it has a bar, live music stage, pool tables, hookahs, a VIP room and a night club with a decent sound set up. Ideal for private functions and party promoters. Club stays open till late.

FatCat Bar AC

WIFI

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LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC

DJ DJ

DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 5333 6087 www.linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.

Flow Bar+

WIFI

SMOKING AC

DELIVERY WIFI

DELIVERY SMOKING2

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+ LIVE DELIVERY AC MUSIC 2

HAPPY LIVE WIFI MUSIC HOUR

DELIVERY LIVE MUSIC

DELIVERY DJ2

HAPPY HOUR

LIVE MUSIC

WIFI

SMOKING AC

DELIVERY WIFI

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+ HAPPY AC DELIVERY AC HOUR

LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC

WIFI

SMOKING AC

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DELIVERY SMOKING2

HAPPY DELIVERY HOUR

+ LIVE DELIVERY AC MUSIC 2

HAPPY LIVE WIFI MUSIC HOUR

86 | Word March 2013

La Fée Verte+ AC

+ SMOKING LIVE MUSIC DJ

DELIVERY LIVE MUSIC

DELIVERY DJ2

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LIVE MUSIC

SMOKING SMOKING

DJ DJ

LIVE MUSIC

LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem 10am to late In the same building as the old Bucket Bar, Hair of the Dog, the first floor offers a large drinking space, graphic artwork, sidewalk seating and a dance floor. Up the spiral staircase, there’s the late-night

DELIVERY SMOKING2

HAPPY AC DELIVERY AC HOUR

WIFI LIVE DELIVERY WIFIMUSIC 2 SMOKING SMOKING HAPPY LIVE MUSIC HOUR DELIVERY DELIVERY LIVE MUSIC DJ DELIVERY DELIVERY LIVE MUSIC 2 2 HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR DJ

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WIFI LIVE LIVE WIFI MUSIC MUSIC SMOKING SMOKING LIVE LIVEMUSIC MUSIC DELIVERY DELIVERY DJ DJ

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May Pub AC

DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY 2 2 2HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR HOUR LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC

LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC

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ACSMOKING ACAC

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DJDJDJ

DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY 2 2 2HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR HOUR LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC

+ Model Club WIFI

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WIFI DJ

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LIVE MUSIC

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+ Phuc Tan SMOKING

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DELIVERY 2

HAPPY HOUR

LIVE MUSIC

+ LIVEAC MUSIC

WIFI DJ

SMOKING

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DELIVERY 2

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LIVE MUSIC

ELECTRO GRUNGE CLUB 51 / 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem 6pm to late Hanoi's favourite after hours dancehall/ trance den. Throw shapes on either of the two floors that have regular DJs while dancing to rapacious electronic beats or enjoy the Red River's breeze and snack on

WIFI LIVE DELIVERY WIFIMUSIC 2 SMOKING SMOKING HAPPY LIVE MUSIC HOURDELIVERY DELIVERY LIVE MUSIC DJ DELIVERY DELIVERY LIVE2MUSIC 2 HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR DJ LIVELIVE MUSIC MUSIC LIVELIVE MUSIC MUSIC

DJ DJ

WIFI WIFI SMOKING WIFI SMOKINGSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING DELIVERY DELIVERYDELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY 2DELIVERY 2 DELIVERY DELIVERY HAPPY HAPPY 2 HOUR 2 HOUR 2 HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY LIVE HOUR LIVE HOUR HOUR MUSIC MUSIC LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC LIVE MUSIC LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC DJDJ

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SMOKING AC

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+ LIVE DELIVERY AC MUSIC 2

HAPPY LIVE WIFI MUSIC HOUR

DJDJDJ

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Q Pub+

WIFI

SMOKING AC

DELIVERY WIFI

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HAPPY DELIVERY HOUR

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ACAC

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Roots+

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REGGAE CHILLOUT BAR 2 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem www.rootsbar-hanoi.blogspot.com 5pm to late With a reggae theme, the French-run Roots stays open late playing African and Caribbean music with some salsa thrown in for good measure. Laid back vibes. A good, late-night, Old Quarter option set on a first floor. The entrance is next to the Irish Wolfhound.

HAPPY HOUR

LIVE MUSIC

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DELIVERY

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++ + WIFI LIVE WIFI WIFI MUSIC SMOKING SMOKING LIVE SMOKING MUSIC DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY DJ

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DJ DJDJ

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AC LIVE ACMUSIC

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DELIVERY DELIVERY 2 2 HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR LIVELIVE MUSIC MUSIC LIVELIVE MUSIC MUSIC

DJ DJ

+ ++ + +

ACAC

ACACAC WIFI WIFI

DJDJDJ

Meet-up spot 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6917 www.taytap.com 4pm to late Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.

Tet Bar LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC

+ AC

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LATE NIGHT LOCAL 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 3050 6pm to 5am This small and personal one-and-a-half floor bar starts to get busy at around 11pm and is popular with expats of all nationalities, despite having a French flavour. Run by the indomitable Thanh and once called Le Maquis, the Tet Bar these days has a slightly cluttered feel to it, but nonetheless continues to pull in the punters. Open very, very late.

+ + WIFI WIFI

SMOKING

Tay Tap

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho Tay, Tay Ho Monday to Friday, 2pm to 11.30pm. Weekends open from 11am Located on the lakeside road just below Xuan Dieu and close to the entrance to The Sheraton, this quiet, casual pub offers up a variety of beer, wine and mixed drinks, juice, tea, Nespresso coffee and espresso and milkshakes, all with a nice view of West Lake. Non-smoking indoors, Red River Tea Room is a welcome addition to the area.

DELIVERY 2

12 Truong Han Sieu, Ba Trieu Leftfield, Indochine, contemporary and artsy, all thrown into one, the latest incarnation of Tadioto rolls together café, bar and gallery. Always with an attractive ambience and friendly service, a garden out back adds a nice touch to the space inside.

BOTTLE BASED DANCE CLUB 61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0915 381180. qbuphanoi@gmail.com A glitzy, spacious basement club tucked away in the corner where Luong Ngoc Quyen meets Hang Giay. It’s a laser, mirrors and disco ball affair with high tables, hostesses, bottles of whiskey and a DJ — usually playing a mixture of trance and house. Runs a number of spirits offers on different days of the week. Ask for details.

Red River Tea Room

DELIVERY

Tracy’s Pub and Grill

DJDJ

The Spot+ WIFI

SMOKING

DELIVERY

DELIVERY 2

HAPPY HOUR

++ LIVE ACAC MUSIC

LIVE WIFI WIFI MUSIC

SMOKING SMOKING DJ

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LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC

DJ DJ

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 1874 8am to midnight A stone's throw from Ta Hien, this barcum-lounge-cum-restaurant has all of the atmosphere present in bars scattered throughout the Old Quarter without being a dive. Enjoy a mixed drink, tacos or a Vietnamese staple starter with the occasional live DJ breaking out classic funk, soul and hip hop in the comfortable furnishings or on the back patio.

+ ++ +charm AC

ACACAC WIFI

Tunnel Bar+ AC

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SMOKING

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LIVE ACAC MUSIC

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DJ DJ

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 11B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0936 063303 www.tunnel-bar-hanoi.com 4pm to late Slim but stylish two-storey bar located just at the bend on Bao Khanh. The friendly staff can make a range of well-made and colourful cocktails. Frequent DJ nights and parties are commonplace at this watering hole that caters to both foreign and Vietnamese. Does an excellent happy hour with specials on Ricard.

Wine’s Corner

WIFI

AC SMOKING AC

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LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC

WINE AND CIGAR LOUNGE 2 Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3477 9am to 1am The ambience at the relaxed wine bar near the Metropole screams red wine — the walls are painted a warm yellow, the exposed brick adds a touch of cool and the wine barrels-turned-tables are tasteful. Too bad it’s often awkwardly empty. Features fine wines, cigars and Vietnamese and international snacks.

DJ DJ

cafes Align 3D

++ ACAC

WIFI WIFI

SMOKING SMOKING

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++ + ACACAC

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DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY 2 2 2HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR HOUR LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC

DJ DJDJ

LAKE VIEW LOUNGE 73 Cau Go; 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0801 www.avaloncafelounge.com 7am to 11.30pm Popular for its views of Hoan Kiem Lake, this lounge and bar is always busy. With comfy seating and balconies, the lounge and sky garden offer a pleasant escape from city-centre chaos. The smoothies are creamy and renditions of popular street dishes are spot on. Elsewhere in the eclectic menu, pizzas and pastas cost around VND100,000 and steak in red wine sauce goes for VND179,000. Classic pop instrumentals play by day, and come night, the chilled vibe is tainted slightly with electro pop.

Café Lam

++ AC AC

WIFI WIFI

SMOKING SMOKING

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DJ DJDJ

Chill Out Cafe AC

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TEEN SCENE CAFÉ 89A Ly Nam De, Ba Dinh Tel: 3223 3246 9am to 10pm This hangout spot is styled for locals in their teeny-bop years and early twenties. The décor is kitschy and cozy, there is even a piano, used occasionally in live music shows. They serve sweet drinks at a reasonable price along with lots of treats like brownies in a variety of newwave flavors.

Ciao Café

DJ DJ

ACAC

++ + ACACAC

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DJ DJDJ

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf

ACACAC

WIFI WIFI WIFI

SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING

INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3715 4240 www.coffeebean.com 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.

DJ DJ

91 Nguyen Huu Huan Tel: 3824 5940 Always busy, the café has traditional

Cong Caphe

DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY

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LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 6686 0344 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communist-driven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on 'cafe street'. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go. And if you like more space and an outdoor terrace, hit Cong Caphe take two on Dien Bien Phu.

Espressamente Illy

++ + ACACAC

WIFI WIFI WIFI

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+ WIFI

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CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 6th floor, 38-40 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7984 7.30am to 11pm Take the dilapidated elevator to the 6th

+ + WIFI WIFI

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CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 6 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0444 www.highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm As with any chain that attempts selfreplication, there is a tried and tested formula. At Highlands it is comfortable seating, good Wi-Fi, unobtrusive music and a mid-range, generic atmosphere. It works, too. The Starbucks of Vietnam, a French-influenced, international and pan-Asian food menu sits alongside the teas, coffee and cakes. Has other locations at 49 Hai Ba Trung, The Opera House, The Syrena Centre, Pacific Place and more.

Joma

DJDJ

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COFFEE/BAKERY 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 33 88 54 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6071 www.joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little ++ + slice of “home” to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2010 and is looking to open in Ho Chi Minh City in 2011. Has a play area for kids up in the West Lake café and bakery.

DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY 2 2 2HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR HOUR LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC

DJ DJDJ

Kinh Do

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 0216 7am – 8pm A must-go-to place on a lazy day, Mr Chi’s long-standing patisserie is somewhat famous for its honest, home-cooked food, no frills-but-relaxing environment and sour yoghurt fit for celebrities — Catherine Deneuve ate here daily during her time shooting Indochine. Hot fresh milk, exclusive coffee, awesome croque madames and local dishes, too. Replace WiFi with a book and aircon with ceiling fans; eat in, take away, the pastries are great and the price is always right.

La Place

++ + ACACAC

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CONTEMPORARY / VIETNAMESE 6 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 5859 7.30am to 10pm This tall, narrow lounge café with rooftop seating is a quintessential Hanoi spot. The decoration is bright and casual and the all-day menu has food from both the east and the west. Draw with crayons on brown paper covering the tables as you while away the hours over coffee or cocktails, and take in the view of St. Joseph’s Cathedral. Has some interesting food options including spinach fried rice along with old standbys like tuna salad sandwiches and coconut chicken curry. No MSG is used here.

DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY 2 2 2HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR HOUR LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC

ITALIAN COFFEE 75 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 2065 8am to 11pm International standard, Italian-style espresso drinks are the name of the game at this undeniably chic chain coffee shop. Boasting a wide range of drinks, including spirit coffees with tequila, and a small selection of pastries and panini sandwiches, the café’s clientele is a mix of tourists and Vietnamese who are tired of ca phe nau da. It is connected to a tour agency and in the central hub of the Old Quarter.

Hapro Café

floor and emerge onto a balcony with one of the best views of Hoan Kiem. The big draw to this café is the vantage point — the drinks are a secondary concern, though there is about every coffee and juice concoction known to mankind on the menu and plenty of yoghurt and smoothie options too. Graze on French fries, sandwiches, salads and typical Vietnamese rice plates. Perfect for watching the city wake up or catching a sunset.

Highlands Coffee

DJ DJ

POPULAR VIETNAMESE 1 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 10A Khuc Hao, Ba Dinh 7am to 11pm Popular with young Vietnamese, the Align cafes are always busy. The younger venue on Khuc Hao is hidden down a bamboo alley and has three outdoor seating areas, one of which makes you feel like you’re sat under a waterfall. The other two are on the roof, and from the middle of this embassy-type street, the sound of motorbikes is replaced with tweeting birds. 3D pictures on the walls of each floor take you back to the old city, before KFC and Parkson. Even to times before the French.

Avalon Café

in old quarter. Lining the walls, old world drawings line the walls floor to ceiling. They serve a variety of teas and coffee, as well as many jars of pickled looking vegetables and less identifiable things. Grab a seat on the low wooden tables and take advantage of their strong Wi-fi.

WIFI WIFI SMOKING WIFI SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY 2DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY HAPPY 2 HOUR 2 2HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY HOUR LIVE HOUR HOUR MUSICLIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSICLIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC DJ

SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 6675 9838 www.tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

WIFI

+ SMOKING LIVE MUSIC DJ

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Tadioto+

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ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR 20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888 ext. 5314 4pm to Midnight Sunday to Wednesday, 4pm to 2am Thursday to Saturday While there are a few ‘rooftop bars’ in the capital, few hold a candle to the view on offer at the Summit Lounge. With a chilled but lively ambience, top shelf cocktails, and a Southeast Asian fusion bar menu, the Summit Lounge is a great place to pitch yourself above the madness and peer down at the chaos below in peace. Sunsets are particularly special.

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Summit Lounge

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

AC AC

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Polite Pub+

DJ DJDJ

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Lasers, pulsating trance, bottle service and nightly model shows. This venue is largely filled with flashy Vietnamese youngsters or older business types flashing their wads. Bottle service is a must, which is a little pricey, so if you ain't got enough money then you probably won't be sticking around to see the honeys.

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European brew hall 10 Nguyen Bieu, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 2288 Modeled after a brewery, bar and bowling alley in the Czech Republic, Pilsner Urquell has an old Europe feel — particularly in the private rooms lined with glass beer mugs, thick cuts of dark wood furniture and semi-circular booths. With the UNmeeting-of-a-menu, customers can choose from goose dishes, noodles, fried apples, an assortment of cheeses and several other options. Perfect location for big gatherings.

DJ DJDJ

ACACAC

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HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2269 1107 Fronted by the affable Sean, and with Guinness, Jameson’s and a surprising amount of draught beer flowing from the taps, since its inauguration the tiny Spy Bar has managed to create a dedicated following despite its tiny size. With pictures of spies dotting the wall (both Vietnamese and international) and food delivery available from three restaurants, this is a great place to chill and shoot some well-deserved, Chuong Duong Bridge breeze.

GAMING LOUNGE 104 Bach Dang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0621 0212 huongnmd@gmail.com 9am to midnight If you’re looking for a more active night out, this gaming lounge has it all. White leather sofas, and plasma screens hooked up to Xbox 360 Kinect, Playstation 3 Move etc and more. Challenge your friends to games while enjoying a western-style food menu and a decent selection of beverages. When you get a little too competitive, you can cool down in the lounge area and gear up for your next big win.

Pilsner Urquell

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HOTEL BAR Lobby Level, Pullman Hanoi, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3733 0808 www.pullmanhotels.com 7am to midnight Situated in the heart of the lobby, Mint Bar is perfect for a relaxing, convivial experience any time of the day. A tapasinspired menu along with fresh fruit juice, local and imported beers are available at all times while wines by the glass or by the bottle are available from the Vinoteca by Pullman. Relax with a coffee or tea from the property’s extensive selection.

FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 lafeeverte@hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am Meaning the green fairy — an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe which was drunk extensively in colonial Vietnam — understated lighting, a laidback lounge atmosphere, a good music selection and ultra-contemporary interior design make up the mix at this downstairs bar in Hotel de l’Opera. Expect a good selection of creative cocktails and an extensive wine list. Opens late with a DJ taking to the decks on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Play Bar

Laid-back fix 2 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0917 897630 nemoover@gmail.com A curving neon sign marks the small entrance to May Pub, which stands on the corner of Nam Ngu and Phan Boi Chau. The pub hosts a laid-back bar atmosphere with old Hollywood photographs, free billiards and darts and low-key live music. The menu combines traditional cocktails with offerings like Russian string cheese — a late-night brew and dairy fix. Wednesday and Friday nights are Buy One Get One Free for ladies.

Mint Bar

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DJ DJ

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Spy Bar

a kebab as you catch up with all of the city's regular night owls. The terrace out back has great views of Long Bien Bridge at night.

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IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2212 6821 www.irishwolfhoundpub.com 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Owned by the people behind Face Club, the low, LED-lit venue has the feel of a VIP room situated in a larger club, only it's not. While techno and trance are the genre's of choice spun in the establishment by live DJs, patrons treat the space more like a lounge than a dancehall and typically order bottle service and cocktails. One of the Ta Hien mainstays.

Hair of the Dog+

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Irish Wolfhound

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Liquor Lounge 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6377 www.sontinh.com 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

DANCEHALL/BAR 61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem 5pm to late Previously known as Dracula Bar, this watering hole tucked upstairs behind a hotel is around the corner from Ta Hien. A double-sided bar splits up a pool table space, lounge area and dance floor. The smoke machine can be a bit much, but the music is a decent mix of pop and house. Never crowded and open late, free shots are given out every hour on the hour.

Funky Buddha

SMOKING AC

House of Son Tinh

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WIFI

weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

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LATE NIGHT LOCAL 9B Bao Khanh, Kiem Tel: 0914 339439 lpcafe@yahoo.com.vn 9am to late ++ This quirky bar and living room gets busiHalf Man Half Noodle + + LATE DIVE BAR est in the later hours. Down in the bar, 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem plasma screens and an iPod station mix Tel: 3926 1943 with a dance floor and comically named 3pm to late cocktails. Upstairs, there’s a cushioned Often a bit dark and somewhat gloomy, living room — a pleasant space with a low “The Noodle” is still a hit with long term ceiling and shisha. Throw in a dartboard, residents. With its all-hour eating options — “sell and swap” book shelves, Jenga and ranging from cheese toasties and pizzas to some tasty toasted sandwiches, and it can grilled cod and bun cha — and its popular be hours of fun. The dried buffalo “nosh” happy hour, this Old Quarter old-timer is still from Tay Bac in the north is a must. up there with the options. Between 11pm and 12.30am, local beers go for VND15,000 ++ Mao’s Red Lounge and mixers go for VND30,000. Friendly staff LOUNGE AND BAR and talkative patrons included. 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 3104 ++ Hanoi Rock City + 5am to 2am LIVE MUSIC VENUE One of the few staple bars in the city that 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho hosts an equal number of ex-pats, locals Tel: 01887 487 426 and tourists. With cheap drinks, funky, www.hanoirockcity.com slightly ethnic decor and one of the most 5pm to midnight amiable owners in town, Mao's is always With a downstairs, English-style pub a great place to start off or finish the garden area and an upstairs space night. Sing-a-longs and dancing welcome dedicated to live music and live at one of the most popular drinking spots production, Hanoi Rock City is the only on Ta Hien. venue in the capital of its kind. Has

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Long Play Café+

bar and shisha lounge complete with beanbags. Drawing in a mix of expats, backpackers and locals, when the bars across the street shut down, the mayhem continues in ‘The Dog’.

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DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem 93 Phung Hung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 4926 2177 11am — late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

DJ DJDJ

Love Chocolate Cafe

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QUIRKY CAFE 26 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3243 2120 www.lovechocolatecafe.com 10am to 10pm, Closed Sundays Bathed in pink and decorated to mimic a French salon, Love Chocolate Cafe carries decadent chocolate desserts like mocha lava cake, espresso pepper brownies and

March 2013 Word | 87

when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

tons of cookies. It doesn’t end there, hot chocolates, shakes and even coffee blends like minty java are on the menu. The sign out front reads, “All you chocoholics, We are open!”. A rare but terrific find in Hanoi.

Moca Cafe

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CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 6334 moca@netnam.vn 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don't let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down French-styled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

Marilyn Cafe

Segafredo

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ROOFTOP CAFE 4 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1949 www.marilyncoffee.com Considering the amount of flat rooftops in this city, it’s a crime that most go under utilized. However, the top floor of Chim Yen boutique and Marilyn Cafe is home to one of the more pleasant spaces in the Old Quarter. With a great, stone’s-throwview of St Joseph’s cathedral, food and beverages, this spot can turn a temperate afternoon into something a bit more special.

OChao Teahouse

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TRADITIONAL TEA ROOM 25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 01887 785977 ochaoteahouse@gmail.com 8am to 10pm A stylish, two-storey traditional but contemporary tea house with great views of West Lake. Specialises in “precious” Vietnamese tea from the northern hills, handpicked by ethnic minority tribes and presented to the public by a passionate French owner. Well worth your time hanging out here on a lazy day.

Panacea Cafe AC

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CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger café-cum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

Saint Honore

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DJ DJDJ

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning

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DJ DJDJ

DJ DJ

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Thai Café

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TOP-END La Badiane

DJ DJ DJ

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Spice

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Café 129

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The Kebab House

STREETSIDE FOOD STOP AND RESTAURANT 12 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6659 8598 Tasty Turkish Vietnamese dining with Nha Tho’s chiming bells accompanying your meal. Its outdoor blackboard menu advertises Kebab possibilities such as lamb, chicken, pork, and even ostrich. Choose from eating in the street or take a few steps inside, through the bustling kitchen, and into the comfortable upstairs lounge seating area. Scrumptious and affordable food, with Kebab’s starting at VND 30,000.

Trieu Phuong Hong Kong AC

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CANTONESE/DIM SUM 317 Kim Ma, Dong Da Tel: 3846 1327 9am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm One of the most underrated Chinese restaurants in the city, the place itself is not much to look at, but they serve above average dim sum. A variety of other Cantonese style dishes including noodle soup and rice dishes are on offer here, all at very affordable prices.

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm Service at this “slow food café” is seriously snail paced, but that is part of the charm of this modest eatery with only a few tables and small stools. Popular as a weekend hangover mainstay for the greasy eggs with cheese, the café is best known for its not-quite Mexican food. But hey, when there’s guacamole, salsa fresca, beans and cheese, what can go wrong? Be sure to try the fresh juices, like the super-booster with beetroot, and the coffee with whipped egg.

FRY (Fresh. Real. Yummy)

Westlake Cupcake AC

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CUPCAKE SERVICE Tel: 01219 499523 mia@westlakecupcake.net The cupcake obsession has caught on. A new baking project by Westlake’s infamous Anna and Mia brings custom cupcakes cooked to order to your front door. Offering a variety of cupcakes and butter cream frostings, check out their speciality flavours like New York cheesecake, brown eyed girl and creative monthly specials. Are you drooling yet? Although a delivery only outlet, the cupcakes are available for purchase at Daluva and Oasis.

OLD TOWN CHIP JOINT 24 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem A quality food stop with a clean, smart,

MID-RANGE Al Fresco’s

+ ++ + ACACAC WIFI

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 1155 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5322 www.alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm With a real ‘diner’ kind of feel, Al Fresco’s serves up munchies-busting Aussie inspired food from a number of locations across the city including their original restaurant at 23L Hai Ba Trung. Topping the menu are the jumbo ribs at VND395,000, with generous helpings of pizzas, pastas, burgers, Tex-Mex, soups and salads going for less. The set business lunch is three courses for VND155,000. See the website for delivery numbers and don’t forget to ask for delivery deals. Have an efficient delivery service, but make sure you ask for knives and forks.

Chez Xuan AC

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Open air eating 41, Ngo 76, An Duong, Tay Ho Tel: 0915 085305 Though it’s a bit far from the centre, the expansive wooded area, chilled out atmosphere and good food makes it worth a visit. The menu is well equipped to satisfy cravings for fish and hearty meat dishes. If you’re in a DIY mood, you can Grill Yourself a plate of meat and seafood or choose from the gourmet selection of strip loin, ostrich or salmon to throw on the tabletop grills. Regularly holds live music events.

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Le Marrakech

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE Ngo 40, Nha 7A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Despite a two-storey indoor dining space, + Kitchen is all about its leafy, terracottatiled terrace out front, a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothiestyle drinks. Has amiable know-your-name staff and a good delivery service.

DELIVERY LIVE MUSIC 2 HAPPY HOUR DJ

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Koto on Van Mieu

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RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 0337 www.koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

La Restaurant AC

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La Salsa

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IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 9052 lasalsa@fpt.vn 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanishthemed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and fantastic first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Western staff speak English and French.

DJ DJDJ

Little Hanoi

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Matchbox

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21 – 23 Hang Gai Street, Hoan Kiem Dist Tel: 3828 5333 littlehanoi@orientalstars.com.vn 7:30am — 11:00pm A tourist hotspot and one for locals, too, Little Hanoi near Hoan Kiem Lake has been going sturdy since 1994 — mainly for its central location, range of sandwiches, pastas and Vietnamese cuisine. Baguettes go from VND95,000 and mango salads VND99,000, not to mention the coffee at around VND50,000, wines and fresh fruit juices. With Indochina-inspired art on the walls and jazz in the background, Little Hanoi is a little escape from the chaos of the central lake. ++ ACAC

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 3098 tmbhanoi@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Located in the grounds of the Fine Arts Museum, this classy restaurant and wine bar mixes attractive décor with western cuisine, all cooked up by a New Zealand-trained Vietnamese chef. Famed for its salads, good cuts of steak, lamb shank and its various pasta fare, the menu here also incorporates a number of well-known Vietnamese dishes.

DJ DJDJ

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88 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3710 0389 10am to 11pm. Closed Monday Family-run Moroccan restaurant in a charming terrace-fronted house close to the start of Xuan Dieu. Focus of cuisine is on authentic couscous, tagines and kebab dishes made with a mixture of local and imported ingredients, all cooked up by a Moroccan chef. Uses Halal meat.

Provecho

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

+ ++ +MOROCCAN

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 4448 www.hoasuaschool.com Open from 7am to 10pm This restaurant, which schools and employs disadvantaged youths, has been popular for 11 years — as a grand villa and courtyard setting tucked away in the corner of Ha Hoi. Popular with business types, tourists and expats alike, who enjoy good food while supporting a good cause, mains like cha ca and steaks go for VND99,000 and VND289,000 respectively, and there are six set menus available which take in Vietnamese, French and Italian cuisine. AC

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Hoa Sua Training Restaurant – Song Thu

Kitchen

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modern feel in the heart of Old Quarter that specializes in serving their signature Belgian fries to accompany their tasty, slider-sized burgers. Choose from an array of preparations ranging from beerbattered to garlic-fried with a variety of 12 different dipping sauces. If you’re craving a savoury lunch place, stop by FRY to get your fix.

DJ DJ

Restaurants – International

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78 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5995 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm India Palace is the fourth member of owner Ravi Kumar’s family of restaurants which includes Tandoor. The menu takes the cuisine of North India and combines it with a South Indian-inspired menu, to create a pan-Indian menu appealing to all. Occupying a large four-storey villa

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24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 5359 tandoor@hn.vnn.vn 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indian-food enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3716 2959 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3993 1399 info@foodshop45.com 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

India Palace & Dakshin

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CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT First Floor, 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel : 3926 0580 Located in the upstairs portion of its sister restaurant, Tamarind, Spice is an impressive extension to the Indian food choices in the city, providing quality non-vegetarian dishes and a comfortable seating area. Includes lounge seating and a colourful dining area with thoughtful artwork and photographs along its walls. Spice is a tropical, artistic, cultural, and attractive addition to the Old Quarter’s dining options. Specializes in seafood and classic Indian dishes.

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47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2400 www.namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery

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10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4509 labadiane.hanoi@yahoo.fr 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night. A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you

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CASUAL FRENCH FUSION 59A Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3941 1959 A well-appointed lounge bar downstairs and a more typical bistro on the first floor, this Vietnamese-run French eatery is known for is extensive wine list and excellent, but well-priced fusion lunches. The work of French-trained sommelier Hai Ha, Le Paul Conti has so far proved quite a hit. A great addition to the capital.

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Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm Classic French Indochine décor and subtle lighting give the Sofitel Metropole Legend’s signature restaurant an elegance rarely found in Vietnam’s capital. The a la carte menu pits classic French cuisine against contemporary Vietnamese cooking with dishes like Nha Trang lobster with saffron pot au feu, the pan fried veal tenderloin on a lemongrass skewer and the calisson parfait marinated with orange, pomelo and lemon balm. Has an extensive wine list.

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 11 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5657 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Recently relocated, Khazaana is one of the two oldest Indian restaurants in Hanoi. The menu encompasses the entire sub-continent, complete with heavier chicken korma and northern curry dishes alongside lighter southern dosas and uttappams. The venue is homey albeit harsh, but with quintessential masala tea, naan and raita to round out the meal, the focus here is on the food and filling your belly… or overfilling, as is more likely the case. All cuisine here is halal.

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48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina+++ styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

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Picomall, 229 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: 6276 1004 www.coffeebean.com 8.30am to 9.30pm Known for the quality of its coffee and tea, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf has landed in Hanoi — in the form of an air-con, western-style drinking space in Hanoi’s newest shopping mall. The five first coffee shops in Vietnam started in Ho Chi Minh City, and this the first one in the capital. Hanoians are finally able to taste the beverages already quenching the thirst in 20 countries across the planet. New stores to open on West Lake soon. 26 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 2539 8am – 10am This new café, which fills a coffee-shop-

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19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 6317 www.verticale-hanoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese++ + French fusion cuisine.

FRENCH BISTRO 10 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1327 www.cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

SANDWICH SHOP/CAFÉ 18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street behind Au Trieu) 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3928 7715 www.thecartfood.com 7:30am – 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets, with a new outlet on Nghi Tam, which is more like the big-windowed coffee shops you expect to see in Europe. The Cart serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

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6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

Cafe de Paris

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PAVEMENT / VIETNAMESE 27 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Walk by this old café and you’ll see why it’s favoured by the locals. Grab a stool on the sidewalk to enjoy the lemon-y tea and sunflower seeds, or a strong drip coffee and people watching. AC

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44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 8246 www.thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment. Eclectic? Not a chance!

FRENCH DELI 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 9433 8am to 11pm Situated on Hanoi’s not-so-serene ‘Pub Street’, Stop sponges up the surrounding atmosphere, which gives the French delicatessen a relaxed vibe that avoids pretension. The spot specializes in serving a mixture of western, French and Vietnamese fare, along with coffee, shakes and juice. The venue is more affordable then it’s sister location upstairs, Café de Arts, and is prime real estate to nibble on some quiche and quaff a juice on a sunny day.

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MUSIC CAFE 25 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 061982 panaceacafe@yahoo.com 8am to late Slightly rough around the edges and with an artsy vibe, this is nonetheless a place that welcomes all comers. There’s live music four nights a week (Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat), but it’s not uncommon to find someone strumming away at the piano here at any time of the day. Friendly staff, good coffee, juices and cold beers.

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ITALIAN CAFE 36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1476 www.segafredo.com.vn 7am to 11pm Names of some of the world's greatest cities cover the front wall of Segafredo, an Italian cafe and eatery serving up some of the best espresso-based coffee in town. Red and white decor, lifestyle black and white coffee drinking images and an open plan space make up the mix. Besides the caffeine-based drinks, also does granita, teas, shakes and modern Italian fare ranging from panini and focaccia through to pizza, pasta, salads and desserts.

with unobstructed views of West Lake at the front, the décor here is traditional yet contemporary Indian. The fourth floor with sweeping views over West Lake is given up to Dakshin, a vegetarian restaurant selling mainly South Indian fare.

as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced three-course lunch menu.

shaped gap in the market for this area, has the feel of half green house, half designconscious doll house, and is a welcome alternative for when your favourite hang out begins to get samey. Focusing on fresh ingredients to suit the fresh design, the Doll House also has a garden terrace, and is open for party bookings and private events. Enter through the shop out front.

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TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912 223966 provechohanoi@gmail.com The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, self-styled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

Spoon

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ASIAN FUSION 15-17 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 5636 6.30am to 10pm An extension of Soul furniture and lifestyle store, the restaurant and lounge bar at Spoon serves up a fusion menu in a setting that screams homeliness and style. Asian dishes, seafood and steaks are among the go-to menu choices. Attentive and competent staff top it all off in this chic restolounge.

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CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0580 tamarind_cafe@yahoo.com 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat, Tamarind features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Breakfast is served all day and with Asian favourites, like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle

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Luala Cafe

salad, along with some falafel and western influences, vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

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French flair 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3726 4782 www.thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

The House

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FUSION FARE / WINE 10 Truong Han Sieu. Tel: 6270 2611 hoangcuongfb@gmail.com The House, once Annie’s Corner, is one of the latest restaurants to occupy an old French building in the quiet streets nestled between Ba Trieu and Quang Trung. It serves Vietnamese food but with international twists. The affordable and eclectic menu ranges from local tenderloin steak to lemongrass tuna salads with a decent wine list and an ideal bring-yourown VND100,000 corkage fee per bottle of wine.

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WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 9916 www.greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm Sophisticated restaurant set inside an Old Quarter boutique hotel. Formerly a school, and now also on Cat Ba Island, Green Mango serves Vietnamese and western food, ranging from sandwiches and pasta to lamb chops and VND700,000 Angus rib-eyes. Buy-one-get-one-free deals on cocktails and beers every day from 4pm to 6pm and Lavazza coffee at all hours. With comfy seats and a soft setting, the function room at the back often hosts charity events and semi-formal get-togethers.

Jaspa’s

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INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 8325 www.alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa's is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

Le Petite Bruxelles

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BELGIAN / EUROPEAN 1 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1769 10 Alley 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 5853 www.le-petit-bruxelles.com 10am to 10pm An airy and spacious long-running Belgian-themed eatery with a location by the cathedral and a second out in West Lake. Although this is not the place to wash down your Chimay, Leffe or Duval with moules frites on a daily basis — the mussels are only available seasonally — a number of other traditional Belgian dishes fill the menu including carbonade, jambonneau and boulettes sauce tomate as well as the more Swiss-sounding beef and cheese fondue. Hearty fare in a nice environment.

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MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 cafelautrec@hoteldelopera.com 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

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SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 0121, www.halia.com.sg Monday – Saturday 11am to 11pm Closed on Sundays A secluded courtyard in the heart of Pacific Place plays host to one of the capital’s best restaurants. A two-floored venue split into a downstairs tapas and bar area,with a refined dining space located on the level above, the menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer, with dishes such as pan-braised Alaskan cod with sea winkle crust and the braised pork belly in shoyu and sweet mirin making an appearance. Has an extensive wine list.

Hemispheres steak & seafood grill

Sheraton Hotel, K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 9000 restaurant.hanoi@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our “Wines of the World” selection. ACAC AC

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23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 8388 www.alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

La Cheminée

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PAN-FRENCH / INTERNATIONAL 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a fine-dining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

Ming Palace

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PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

Nineteen 11

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 4801 www.nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Named after the completion date of the Opera House under which it is located, walk inside and a labyrinthine-like, barebrick wall hallway leads you through to the main dining area. With dark browns, deep yellow tablecloths and a refined ambience aided by background classical music, the menu takes in western, pan-Asian and seafood fare and even has its own section dedicated entirely to foie gras. Has a 100-strong old and new + + +world wine list that includes Bordeaux vintages and also boasts a cheaper, outdoor garden space next to Highlands Coffee.

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BUFFET & A LA CARTE First Floor, Pullman Hanoi, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3733 0808 www.pullmanhotels.com 6am to 10pm Serving cuisine inspired by local culinary tradition, La Cheminee also includes international classics revisited with an eye on contemporary trends. Buffet service, a la carte menu, dishes to share with family or friends; everything here is created with the concepts of freedom, flexibility and ++ +conviviality.

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99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6991 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This welcomed eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with two venues in Saigon — one near the Opera House and the other in Saigon South — the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and

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CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 3719 www.donviet.vn Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late A bakery, bistro, restaurant, wine retailer, oyster bar and top floor lounge bar all in one, this lake-facing venue is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negra ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

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Halia Hanoi

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6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: 3845 5224 www.aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

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CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2886 www.luala.vn 8 am to 10 pm If you can't afford the labels at Luala you can still enjoy the cuisine in this small cafe run in conjunction with the high-end fashion concept store, Luala and The Press Club. Offering a large menu specialising in creative but chic cafe fare as well as the prerequisite quality coffee, the outdoor terrace seating offers great views of the downtown area.

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CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 0888 www.hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular first-Friday-ofthe-month party.

Restaurants — Italian

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PAN-CHINESE 2nd Level, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place to get

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CASUAL ITALIAN DINING 172 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 0680 9am to 10.30pm An Italian eatery in West Lake with a large selection of authentic, pan-Italian cuisine, Cielo is a place which goes back to basic, using homemade Bufala mozzarella on their pizzas. The word Cielo means sky,

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CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 8585 1443 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

Luno d’Autunno

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PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6288 leo@mediterraneo-hanoi.com 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

Pane e Vino

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Pan-Italian 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 9080 www.panevino.com 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

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CLASSIC ITALIAN 78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3823 73338 lunadautunno@gmail.com 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian restaurant has been going for 10 years. It uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND60,000 to build-your-own-skiesthe-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space with over 35 covers and an outside courtyard, seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly photo exhibitions and opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

May Man Chinese Cuisine

goat’s cheese salad. Also serves up curry chicken sandwiches and meatball penne pasta.

which is reflected in the fresh airy dining room. And while their takeaway service is prompt, eating in ensures a much better experience. Prices are very reasonable.

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Floor 1, Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 5959 www.zpizza.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm Californian pizza chain in the now open in West Lake. — currently the only place to eat from this American pizza brand in Hanoi. The new pizzeria prides itself on its 100 percent certified organic wheat dough and different dishes found nowhere else, like the strawberry and

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar) There are only two truly top-end, contemporary Italians in Vietnam and Angelina claims pride of place in this elite group. This doesn't mean that prices here are off limits — take a similar eatery in Europe and here you are paying a third, which all makes a meal here a special affair. The carpaccios are to die for, the pastas are all home made, the pizzas are wood-fired and the steaks are chargrilled. Does a great three-course set lunch for VND520,000++. Nick Ross Restaurants — Japanese & Korean

BONG-CHU JJIM-DAK

KOREAN CHICKEN B40 Nguyen Thi Dinh, Thanh Xuan Tel: 6680 1423 Visit www.bongchu.co.kr 11am – 10pm In typical Vietnamese fashion, Bong-Chu Jjim Dak restaurant only serves one dish it knows best: chicken. A light kimchi soup is served alongside the steamed bird mixed with cellophane noodles packed in a mildly peppery but sweet combination. It’s simple — ordering options include half chicken, whole chicken, chicken and a half, or all of the above. Select the answer that best fits your appetite and escape from the ubiquitous boiled chicken on streets.

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KOREAN 50A Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3201 2989 One of the longest running Koreans in town, this down-to-earth eatery just off Kim Ma specialises in the Korean nation’s version of sushi rolls. These can be ordered either plain or deep-fried. Other Korean fare includes bibimbab and a range of barbecue dishes. The cuisine is brought to your low tables with floor seating and in typical Korean fashion, all meals are served with free side dishes (banchan) of kim chi, pickles and eggplant.

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JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday Sushi, soba, sake. Buy a big bottle of sake and the staff will put your name on it and keep it until next time. Dine at the downstairs bar or in one of the private rooms with sliding doors for an authentic Japanese experience. Although Ky Y specialises in rice-style working man’s fare, it’s hard to go wrong with anything on the menu, but the Japanese omelets, tempura and saucy eggplant dishes are perennial crowd pleasers.

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JAPANESE BBQ 121 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 8437 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Just a stone’s throw from Ky Y, this Osakabased chain does the same cuisine, but entirely differently. The small plates on the large menu are best shared among

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{ music Buff } ** The Years of the Snakes * *

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a group and with bottles of beer or sake. The tofu in amber sauce will leave you licking the plate and the chicken with udon and vegetables is off-the-charts delicious. The tidbit barbeque sticks of okra or bacon are also great, but more as a snack than anything else.

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TRADITIONAL JAPANESE 34 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7565 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm This Japanese eatery might be easy to walk past without noticing, but venture inside and you will find a small but neat interior. The food ranges from traditional Japanese to dishes that lean towards fusion. Very reasonable prices, compared with other Japanese establishments .

Restaurants — SINGAPOREAN

Hard Yards The obvious case in point is CAMA. It was just a few years ago when the one music event that every expat in the city looked forward to was the CAMA / Minsk Club Festival — a yearly event held in a large venue with semilarge musical acts. Their press

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My Place releases were peppered with the word “international”, and true enough, it was one of the few chances people had to see current musicians from other countries. The first time I had a chance to speak with Giles Cooper of CAMA he mentioned that they were looking for a permanent venue that would link Hanoi in a more consistent way to the international music scene. Back then it seemed a bit far-fetched. There were fewer promoters, and those who were operating then, the likes of Noizee and others who were giving a good honest effort, seemed to be having problems from every side — the authorities, venue owners and even bands and DJs themselves. Since then the situation has changed quite a lot. CAMA has set up ATK, a small but intimate place with an undeniably Hanoian character. In Giles’s own words, “It was falling to pieces when we found it.” Now it has become one of the places bringing a continual breeze of eclectic artists who may not have otherwise bothered to stop in the city.

Cheapskates? The most common complaint that I've heard about ATK has been about their prices and cover charges. This complaint is endlessly baffling, especially coming from people who I suspect would gladly pay ten times as much to see live music in their home countries. Bush Lam from Sub Elements, touched on this point by saying: “Probably people's

responses are due to the fact they that they either don't know the act, or they know there's still a gap called an ‘entrance fee’. Everyone loves free shows, and sadly we can’t bring anyone in to play for free, that's reality.” On other shores promoters are also known to be fiercely competitive. This is another bright spot for Hanoi, and another way in which promoters here have broken the old stereotype. “We don't feel that we're in any competition because we're all different, we do different things,” explains Bush. “No-one is better than the others. This is just what we love and what others love is different. People will choose for themselves what they want.” Giles echoes the same sensibility when he says that they would gladly collaborate with other promoters. If this were to happen it could create a stronger magnet in Hanoi for groups, DJs, MCs and other artists, essentially putting the city on the map. Maybe it could even reignite a musical dialogue with the rest of the world with the potential to wake local bands from the candy-coated V-pop daze that has entranced too many for far too long. I am not so optimistic that such collaboration is on the horizon. But one can hope, right? Brian Webb is a music writer originally from Milwaukee in the US. He has been plying his trade as a journalist in Vietnam for four years.

MALAY KOPITIAM 9 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Home-cooked style Malaysian and Singaporean cuisine with dishes such as nasi lemak, roti bakar and mee hoon tom yam cooked up using imported ingredients from both Malaysia and Singapore. Recently refurbished, My Place is designed like a typical Malay 'kopitiam'.

The Lion City

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PAN-THAI RESTAURANT & CAFE 9 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 6353 8am to 10pm Probably the only cafe restaurant in Hanoi that makes a genuine attempt at creating authentic Thai cuisine, mythical figures wearing traditional garb dance along the cream-coloured walls giving this contemporary venue a touch of elegance that goes beyond the food. The dishes come from all the regions of the country formerly known as Siam, with mains weighing in at somewhere around the VND100,000 mark.

Thai Elephant

mid-range n big cities around the world with large music scenes, promoters have gained reputations for being scheisters, crooks, con artists and snakes. After writing about music in these types of mediasaturated scenes, one hears words for promoters that are usually reserved for the ugliest crawling mammals and insects. Give me one band that has played any substantial circuit in America and I will give you 11 creative pejorative terms to describe a promoter. But the situation in Hanoi has been different. Hanoi is slowly but surely making an ascent in rank among stopping points for western acts coming through Asia, who just a few years ago, would likely have only put places like Beijing, Shanghai, Singapore, Melbourne and Sydney on their stop lists, maybe with Ho Chi Minh City thrown into the mix. This has been largely due to the straightforward efforts of promoters who work hard to attract artists, many times with limited budgets and at their own financial risk. Shortterm profit motives are often secondary. So much for the slimy promoter cliché.

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INTERNATIONAL THAI 73 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 8586 7090 11am to 11pm For those with sensitive taste buds, this small restaurant serves up authentic Thai food that is lighter on the spice. Owned by a Bangkok native, the space itself is a small two-level restaurant with traditional Thai décor. At a convenient location near Hoan Kiem and Vincom Towers, Thai Elephant covers all the delicious bases with efficient, fast service and delivery.

Restaurants — Vietnamese budget

SINGAPOREAN RESTAURANT 92 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3941 1208 www.lioncity.com.vn Probably Hanoi’s best Singaporean dining is located steps away from the Hanoi train station, so close that a clear view of the tracks can be seen through a window from your table. As part of the lavish Cosiana Hotel, excellent hospitality comes hand in hand with tasty cuisine. Choose from a variety of typical Lion City dishes and speciality drinks.

Banh Cuon Phu Ly

Rasa Singapura

BUN BO HUE 36c Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung 7am to 4pm This is the second branch of the ninemonth-old restaurant on Food Street. Like the Tong Duy Tan favourite, which is more restaurant than street-side affair, the new location serves up the same staples from further south including bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong and nem lui. Authentic, tasty and cheap

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SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE 63 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2992 www.rasasingapura-hanoi.com 5pm to midnight By the shores of Truc Bach Lake is the newly opened Singapore Peranakan Restaurant with its authentic, Straits fusion fare emanating from Singapore, Malacca and Penang. Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as its signature dish, all the fare here is home-cooked by the owner / partner who spent five years living and studying in Singapore. This is tasty, homecooked, well-priced fare in a pleasant but tranquil setting. late night dining until the early hours.

Restaurants — Southeast Asian

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MALAYSIAN / HALAL 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1859 www.nisa-restaurant.com 10am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10pm A two-storey fresh looking Malaysian restaurant with affable staff and authentic cuisine. Difficulty in obtaining ingredients means that these days the menu is limited, but a nasi campur buffet-style counter in the downstairs space and photos on the wall of other classic Malaysian fare allows customers to choose what to eat. Think nasi lemak, mee goreng, roti canai, beef rendang and more. It tastes good, too.

BANH CUON 39 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem 6am to 3pm Put the warm fish sauce in the small bowl with squeezed lime, chilli and fresh herbs and then dip. This is the Ha Nam version of banh cuon (rolled wet rice paper) with the gio lua (pork cake) substituted for barbecued pork and bacon. The street side, flaking paint wall location may be off putting for some, but the fare tastes great.

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BUN BO 67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3923 0701 7am to 11pm Dressed up like an indoor version of a streetside eatery, this megalith of a skinny bun bo restaurant is famed not only for its northern interpretation of a southern dish that you can't buy in the south, but also for its ga tan (stewed marinated chicken). The bun bo itself, a concoction of sauteed beef, peanuts, beansprouts, white noodles and sweet and sour sauce, is one of the better versions available in the city. And the beef is excellent.

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BUN CHA 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 5022 10am to 7pm With the help of over 40 years of customer loyalty and repeated mentions in overseas press, Dac Kim has become the powerhouse of eateries serving up bun cha (white rice noodles with barbecued pork

Mai Anh

and herbs). The formula is simple. The mini pork patties are perfectly rounded, the bacon is perfectly grilled and then the portions are humongous. If you're feeling ravenous, the servings here will fill that merry gap, but if you want quality over quantity, look elsewhere. Has a second eatery at 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem.

Chicken Street

BBQ STAPLES Ly Van Phuc, Ba Dinh Perhaps the most well known street food Mecca in all of Hanoi, the lane is flanked with BBQ chicken joints from north to south. At the Nguyen Thai Hoc entrance, the food stalls boast proper chairs, while the venues at the opposite end offer stools and host much larger crowds. No trip to Hanoi or tenure in the capital is complete without a trip to Chicken Street. Honey grilled banh my and potatoes provide vegetarians with savory alternatives.

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HOI AN CUISINE 1 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 3856 7am to 11pm A four-storey restaurant and café specialising in food from the centre of Vietnam — or, as the name suggests, the ancient town of Hoi An. It serves everything from the famous cao lau noodles and my quang tom, to bun bo nuong and com ga Hoi An. Also sells Thai and Chinese cuisine, cakes and ice cream. A spiral staircase, a second floor terrace and pictures of the ancient town top it all off.

Cua Hang An Uong Mau Dich So 37

CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 37 Nam Tran, Truc Bach, Ba Dinh Mau Dich is a blast from Vietnam’s subsidy era past with diners ordering from a blackboard and paying in vouchers. Traditional dishes like thit kho tau are written up daily and washed down with cool bia hoi. Hanoi’s most interesting themed restaurant.

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HUE CUISINE 150 Nguyen Khuyen, Dong Da Tel: 6674 7917 6.30am to 10pm A no frills, ten-table restaurant easy to miss at the end of Nguyen Khuyen, just opposite the Temple of Literature. Specialises in dishes from Hue, like banh beo and banh khoai, all at local prices. The staff is friendly and helpful and the bun bo Hue is spot on.

Duong Som Chao Ca

FISH PORRIDGE / CHAO CA 213 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3829 5281 Serves perhaps some of the best chao ca in the city. This rice porridge with fish is garnished with a healthy amount of fresh herbs and, if you choose, strips of banh quay – the Chinese style fried bread. The fish is boneless, which helps set this place apart from others selling the same dish. One bowl is VND30,000.

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VEGAN 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4140 9am to 9pm The set meals for one person or a group of six people make this a popular lunchtime eatery. Signs clearly demarcate the way through the alley on Tran Hung Dao to this casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. Everything on the menu is vegetarian, from standard tofu with tomato sauce to more obscure fake meat dishes. The walls are moldy but the food is fresh.

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PHO GA 32 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 8492 5am to 4pm Ignore the doubters, this infamous eatery serves up some seriously wholesome pho ga (chicken noodle soup) in a hygienic, shared table indoor environment. The secret? The broth, a perfectly rounded chicken stock consomme. Portions are big, too, and diners can order chicken on the bone or off and can even get an extra egg added to the soup for good measure.

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PHO CUON / PAN-VIETNAMESE 71-77 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh 9am to midnight For a dish purported to be invented by French chef Didier Corlou, it is phenomenal how this wet rice paper filled with beef and herbs affair has so quickly been absorbed into the street food fold. Dipped into sweet fish sauce with a touch of chilli, it tastes good, too. The biggest proponents of this dish are on Truc Bach — a row of five street-side eateries that also sell standard, quan nhau meat and seafood fare. There is also another strip of joints just round the corner on Ngu Xa.

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Quan 32

PHO GA / PHO BO / PHO XAO 32 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem 5.30am to 11pm A hearty, slightly salty broth accompanies the pho ga at this well-known, 40-year-old street corner eatery also lauded for its tasty pho xao and pho bo. It's a simple, typically Hanoian streetside affair here with red plastic tables on the street and foot-high stools. The soup comes with an accompanying basket of slightly stale but buttery banh quay.

Quan 49

PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho 6am to 4pm A stilt-hutted street food eatery and cafe in the shadow of Elite Fitness doing a tasty version of the sweet and sour bun bo Nam Bo (southern-style beef noodles). Ladle in the chilli and mix up with the beansprouts, fresh herbs, peanuts and sauteed beef, and you have a spiced-up, filling meal. Also does decent pho ga (chicken noodle soup) and pho xao (fried noodles). Has a semi-mezannine cafestyle space out back.

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VEGAN 39 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 6278 1848 7am to 9pm Vegetarians delight in being able to order anything off this more-creativethan-normal traditional Vietnamese Buddhist restaurant situated on a quiet street. Corn juice is the drink of choice here, as everyone around sips the tepid yellow stuff, and the array of fried tofu vegetable dishes makes you reconsider vegan cuisine as “health food.” Order an office lunch plate or dine in during the weekend surrounded by families and walls adorned with traditional Buddhist imagery. AC

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VEGAN Nha 2, Ngo 12 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 1622 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm Simplicity is the key at this small but airy, zen-like bamboo-table eatery located behind the Syrena Centre. A rarity in Vietnam — the cuisine here doesn’t only

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TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 65 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3976 0633 www.chimsao.com 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Situated in a turn-of-the-century French townhouse in a tucked away alley, the ‘whistling bird’ continues to offer some of the best ‘traditional’ Vietnamese food in the capital. Sit on the floor upstairs or enjoy seating downstairs, regardless this eatery serves up simple Vietnamese staples that are well executed and presented in a setting that makes one feel like a regal Hanoian.

Choi

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Old Hanoi

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem Tel: 1355 9096 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the rollyour-own cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

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Quan an Ngon

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CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 8162 sales@ngonhanoi.com 7am to 9.30pm Long-time favourite serving up Vietnamese classics in a large French villa and courtyard. Menu is huge, made up of street-food options and higher end dishes from Hanoi, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City. Quick service makes it ideal for lunch and the array of options makes it perfect for newcomers to Vietnamese cuisine. Order loads and share, of course.

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IMPERIAL / CONTEMPORARY 63 Pham Hong Thai, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3927 5920 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm After shutting the doors at its former location, Com Viet is nestled in the tranquil neighbourhood near Truc Bach Lake. The ‘imperial’ staple, with its pristine décor and antiques, traditional bites and regal atmosphere, specialises in serving up traditional treats with contemporary fusion — think cheese wrapped in beef with a side of pickled cucumbers and a glass of red. Go on the right night and catch live traditional music in the courtyard and feel like a king.

Pots ‘N Pans

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57 Bui Thi Xuan Street, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 0204, www.potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

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La Petit Tonkinoise

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CLASSY FUSION 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 5831 www.daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. Additional services include catering, BBQ rentals, playroom, kids menu, takeaway and local delivery.

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 42 Duong 9, F361, An Duong, Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: 2260 8968 10am-10pm Imperial-era architecture, a rock garden with trees almost 300 years old, a beautiful lawn area and contemporary Asian-influenced international fare make up the mix at this quite unique top-end restaurant. The cuisine and drinks don’t come cheap, but then establishments such as Softwater are a rarity. Has both an international and a Vietnamese menu and is located by the river in An Duong at the end of Road 9, close to the Sofitel Plaza.

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SPANISH 26 Lan Ong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 8585 2563 9am to 11pm Nestled just off the main Old Quarter drag, this bar and restaurant daubed in the colours of the Spanish flag is the first genuine Iberian tapas bar in town. Sells a range of fare from paella through to tapas, a selection of tortilla and Spanish mains, and also serves lethal but tasty sangria. Spanish tempanillos and reds make up the enigmatic mix.

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BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2104 www.lepub.org 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make

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INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

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SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 1901 therooftop@vnn.vn 8am to midnight If location counts for anything, then here it is spectacular. With a 270-degree view over the whole of the city, the up-on-high theme of the Rooftop is used to its full. The bar is pretty cool, too, with bare brick, sofa-style seating, glass fronted wine displays and a private room out back for more intimate drinking. Also does day-time office lunches, coffee and decent bar food.

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BAR, CAFÉ AND MUSIC VENUE 256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho www.rockandrolltavern-hanoi.com Come grab a drink at the newly revamped R &R to enjoy a taste of American style brew and their comforting Western dishes. The pub still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course, some qual-

Quang Ba L a ke

West Lake

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INTERNATIONAL / WINE AND JAZZ 12 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3927 5708 5.30pm to midnight Tucked into a quiet street close to Truc Bach, this romantic, Parisian-styled lounge exhibits art from up-and-coming Hanoi artists and is best experienced on the nights with live music. The menu offerings are rich and robust, from chicken curry to spaghetti and roast duck, all created to pair well with wine. Come for dinner and stay for the live jazz and well-curated wine selection.

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CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3398 1979 www.southgatehanoi.com Sunday to Wednesday 11.30am to midnight. Thursday to Saturday 11.30am to 2am An American-run casual yet sophisticated

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12 Truong Han Sieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 6680 9124 www.tadioto.com 8.30am to Midnight Alternative and nostalgic restaurant bar with a dim lit conversational ambience. This French-style villa is adorned with old-world architectural styles and hints of engaging contemporary artwork along its walls. Enjoy a glass of wine to complement a variety of succulent light dishes in this combination café, bar, and gallery. Includes lounge seating, two bars, an outdoor patio, and two multipurpose rooms for small gatherings. Tadioto is an exciting, intimate venue for live music, literary readings, and art showcases.

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OLD SKOOL 1 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 2888 9am to 11.30pm This ‘Chill Lounge’ is not too far from the Opera House and is ideal for drinks against a bright backdrop. Its large bar serves up test tube shooters and the Party Animal Bucket offers a range of shots. Of course, it’s a café/restaurant, too and be sure to check out the owner’s collection of boom boxes next to the DJ Booth. Live music on Wednesdays and a DJ at the weekend.

Restaurants & Bars

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INTERNATIONAL The Clubhouse, Ciputra, Tel: 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

other Businesses

The Cart

L’s Place

St. Honore; Vine

Oasis; Red Apron

Segafredo; Tracy’s; Kitchen

Vine Cellar Door

Mandarin; India Palace

Yuki’s

Al Fresco’s; Tay Tap

Kitchen Art

House of Son Tinh

Santal Spa; Bamboo Village

Don’s Tay Ho

City Zoo; Better Day

Da Paolo; Coconut Cafes

Collective Concepts

La Salsa

Binh’s Salon

White Cloud

L’Atelier

Cielo

Pure Heaven

Bobby Chinn

International SOS

Le Marrakech

Ham Long Mini Market

Daluva

Module 17

Joma

George’s Fashion

Hanoi Rock City

Veggie’s

Love Chocolate Cafe

Zenith Yoga

El Gaucho

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restobar on Food Street with a great outdoor terrace area, a shared indoor bar space, a chef’s table and upstairs seating. Matched by contemporary décor, the creative food menu focuses on doing comfort food well, while a decent new and old world wine list and innovative cocktails make up the mix. Popular with the media and artsy set.

West Lake Out & About

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ity live rock music. Its upstairs area is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly shows and events while the downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly community environment.

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LOUNGE CAFÉ 9 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 3710 1566 Nestled along bustling Au Co, seconds away from West Lake, Grain and Grape provides a comfortable, elegant setting to enjoy a glass of wine alongside an appetizing meal. Outdoor seating, dining room, and an upstairs seating area adorned with stacks of wine bottles along the walls only give testament to its extensive, diverse menu. ACAC

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FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 www.etehanoi.com 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

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the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events. Has a second Le Pub at Third Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho.

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ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL 58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm Located on the corner of Quang Trung, this large new cafe, restaurant and bar is housed in a restored colonial building. The beautiful courtyard is liberally decorated with plants, fans, blowlight jets of water, and shade is provided by tasteful cream parasols. Inside, a non-smoking, airconditioned room is the perfect place to escape the heat. Western and Vietnamese fare is on offer, they have a huge range of wine, beer and coffee and they serve excellent fries too.

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29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 ext. 6414 satine@hoteldelopera.com Situated in the heart of Hotel de l’Opera’s 8 storey central atrium, Satine offers a high class dining experience. Signature Vietnamese dishes from around the country will be presented to guests including some of the country’s best kept culinary secrets passed down by generations.

Softwater

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Nick Ross

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CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 26 A-B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 6133. ngonhanoi@vnn.vn 7am to 10pm Large and always busy restaurant set in two colonial buildings. The courtyard is filled with tables and fairy light covered trees, which are circled by 18 cooking stoves. Here the chefs serve Vietnamese classics from all over the country a la carte style. Good for street side classics done well in the comfort of an airy restaurant. Of the 14 dining spaces, one room holds 30 guests. Open for breakfast lunch and dinner.

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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Tel: 3943 9342 www.wildlotus.com.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm One of the city’s most popular Vietnamese restaurants is a delight from the entrance inwards. Walk over water features and 100 roses and up the spiral staircase into subdued lighting, warm colours and a menu that mixes subtle, well-executed Asian flavours. Not for those who love the sharpness of some street foods, but definitely for those who have guests in town or business clients to schmooze. Quite an experience.

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PAN-VIETNAMESE 17 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3972 8001 clubopera@orientalstars.com.vn 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm Indochine elegance mixes with top-end culinary flair to create one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. Fine dining it isn't — this country's cuisine doesn't really lend itself to that type of cooking. But quality ingredients and a twist of creativity makes the fare here well worth the higher price tag — think creative spring rolls and lobster cooked up with a passion-fruit sauce. This is just the start. Also has a great downstairs lounge bar.

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23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 8388 www.Jackson_steakhouse.com 9.30am to midnight This new addition to the city from the Alfresco’s Group is definitely the meatiest yet. In the shape of a four floor, chic restobar — which has a bar lounge on the ground, a restaurant vibe on the second and third, and a “boardroom” on the fourth — Jacksons Steakhouse serves of well presented plates of imported Oz and New Zealand steaks as well as seafood. Of course, the large restaurant wouldn’t be complete without a large wine list to match.

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STEAK / CHINESE NOODLES 52 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 2251 7am to 10.30pm Located on the corner of Hoa Ma, this steak served sizzling-on-the-griddle eatery packs no punches when it comes to getting your beef. Get the standard banh my affair and the imported US steak is doled up with meatballs, fried egg, chips and lots of fat. It's a cholesterol mess of a meal but really tasty. Also does bun bo Hue, Phuc Kien noodles and the Khmer Chinese hu tieu Nam Vang. Has restaurants at 349 Doi Can and 71 Tran Duy Hung.

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Vietnamese / Ethnic 5 Hang Tre, hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 4200 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3771 6372 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3796 2647 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 0639 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6377 10am to midnight

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LOUNGE CAFE 15A Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 0913 221971 Step downstairs through Choi’s imposing wooden doors, and into their cellar-like lair. Intricate jazz tunes float through the spacious interior, adorned with artwork that pays tribute to greats like D. Ellington and Bo Diddley. Enjoy a smart, cozy setting with selections of wines, soups, salads and other Vietnamese comfort foods to enjoy.

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VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 38 Hang Hom Tel: 3928 7241 An unassuming establishment that rarely fills up, which means that customers often benefit from better service and the servers utmost attention. What the restaurant lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for with a large menu that is chalked full of reasonably priced Vietnamese fare and some western staples. AC

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INDOCHINE / VIETNAMESE 13 Tran Hung Dao, Tel: 3933 3533 Set in converted colonial villas and frequented primarily by travellers that unload in front of the establishment on massive tour buses, this venue is imbued with the nostalgia of Indochine, replete with chess boards, stylish fans and waitresses outfitted in ao dais. Boasts a large menu filled with Vietnamese favourites and much more.

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CHA CA 14 Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 3929 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm A funky wooden-floored two storey, one-dish-only eatery on a street devoted to one of Hanoi's best known dishes, cha ca. Claiming to be the oldest restaurant in Vietnam (established 1873) the deal is straightforward. The butter-coated, premarinated fish is sauteed with dill and spring onions on the table and served up with sides of peanuts, bun noodles and fresh herbs. It's not street food prices cheap by any means, but it's darned tasty. Popular with tourists and locals.

Au Lac House

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VIETNAMESE SEAFOOD 55 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 6270 0787 10am to 10pm There are two of these restaurants in Vietnam and the other is in Phu Quoc, the location of probably the best seafood in the country. Every type of ocean-breathing animal is available here in addition to an array of tofu and vegetables. From crab to Russian sturgeon and grouper, most of this seafood harks from down south or Halong Bay. The restaurant is set up so that every day is a banquet and you can pick your poisons from the tank.

Cha Ca La Vong

Trung Duong

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Always busy, often hectic, this multifloored restaurant is for diners who don’t mind loud noises and sitting on the floor. It’s best for groups so you can order an array of dishes ranging from the more exotic frog legs, buffalo and ostrich, to the trusted standbys; catfish spring rolls, papaya salad and fried tofu. But it’s the exclusive Highway 4 flavoured rice wines that can be taken as shots or mixed into cocktails that keep this place crowded.

Ben

focus on faux meat imitation — the menu mixes canh (broth) with a range of light dishes, Vietnamese-style salads and a selection of tofu and gluten-inspired mains. Worth a try for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike.

InterContinental Westlake

West Lake

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Leisure & Arts LISTINGS

amusement 098 Antiques 098 books shops 098 cinemas 098 clubs & societies 098 cooking classes 098 CYCLING 098 dancing 098 fitness 098 football, soccer & rugby 100 galleries 101 golf courses 101 haidressers & salons 101

amusement

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

kids 101 leisure general 102 massage 102 nails 102 performing arts 102 spas 102 sports classes 102 tennis 102 vietnamese classes 102 yoga 102 ColumnS book buff 099 cinema buff 100 French and English books and even some literature.

Xunhasaba

Cosmos

168 Ngoc Khanh, Dong Da This bowling alley may be small, but if you’re hankering for a night at the lanes, this one has instant replay cameras that will show your strike again in slow motion.

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 4068 Often referred to just as ‘The Foreign Language Bookstore’, you’ll find a decent selection of both books and magazines. Their biggest section is composed of ESL materials, but you will also find fiction.

Hanoi Star Bowl

2B Pham Ngoc Trach, Dong Da Tel: 3574 1614 Plenty of lanes, and the zany colours add to the festive feel. A game will cost VND27,000, plus a little extra for the shoe rental. All in all it makes for a night of good fun.

Quan Tom

89 Bui Thi Xuan Tel: 3294 47844 The staff at this karaoke bar is quite friendly. Large, comfortable rooms, and – their claim to fame – a vast English language track list, makes for a good night.

Antiques 54 Traditions Gallery

30 Hang Bun, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3715 0194 www.54traditions.com.vn The only gallery in Vietnam focusing on the antiques, artifacts and art of Vietnam’s 53 minority groups and the Kinh majority people. Has over 1,000 items on display and objects in the collection have been exhibited in museums both in Hanoi and abroad.

book shops Bookworm

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 3711 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

Hieu Sach Thang Long

55 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7043 A large bookstore with mostly Vietnamese material, but there is also a selection of

96 | Word March 2013

cinemas

individuals can stay in touch and continue to affect the political winds that are blowing Stateside. Hosts regular events for every major election cycle.

American Club

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 1850 www.americanclubhanoi.com A bit worn around the edges, but the facilities are still useful and the grounds pleasant. They host frequent events that are open to the public. Wide lawn, volleyball and basketball courts may make the place worth a visit.

Hanoi Club

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 The exclusive social and fitness club is located on the banks of West Lake. Golfers hit balls into the lake from the driving range and swimmers enjoy a lovely view from the pool. The gym is small and classes are not included as part of the steep yearly membership fees.

L’Espace

24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem www.ambafrance-vn.org The cultural arm of the French Embassy is very active in the cultural life of the city. They both organise and host many functions – music, performing arts, film. Large French language library as well as classes and workshops.

cooking classes Hanoi Cooking Centre

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2648 Not a movie theater per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0088. www.hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

Megastar

Hidden Hanoi

Cinematheque

Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, 6th floor, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 3333 www.megastarmedia.net Inside Vincom towers, this big, westernstyle multiplex shows some of the latest English language and Asian foreign films. The experience includes fairly wellstocked concession stands, comfortable seats, air conditioning and a booming sound system.

Megastar Pico Mall 299 Tay Son, Dong Da The second Megastar outlet in the city in the newly renovated Pico Mall. Generally less crowed than the theatre at Vincom Towers, but the same concept. For real Hollywood and American fast food fans, has a Pizza Hut and Swensen’s within the same cinema complex.

National Cinema Centre 87 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 3514 2278 Cineplex with several smaller theaters and an arcade. Movies are quite cheap, especially matinees. Be sure to ask if the movie is subtitled in Vietnamese or dubbed.

clubs & societies Democrats Abroad – Vietnam www.democratsabroad.org Affiliated with the American Democratic Party, like-minded and politically active

137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 254045 www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

Highway4 Cooking Class

31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3715 0577 The well-known restaurant also offers one-off cooking courses in the kitchens at their Truc Bach location. Don’t worry if you forget some of the tricks, as the class includes a recipe booklet.

Kitchen Art Store and Studio

Lane 38/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 6680 2770 www.kitchenart.vn Well stocked and modern cooking store offering cooking classes with one of Vietnam's popular food personalities. Kitchen Art Basic Baking Classes also open to non-Vietnamese speaking students. The friendly staff ensures that everyone is able to follow the instructor.

KOTO

Lane 52/28, House 9, To Ngoc Van Tel: 3747 0377 www.koto.com.vn This charitable organisation, which helps street kids gain the skills to succeed in the hospitality industry, also offers

{ book Buff }

cooking classes to the public on Tuesdays at their training centre. Learn how to make some of the items on their menu at home. Pick up is also available at their Van Mieu location.

cycling The Hanoi Bicycle Collective (THBC)

To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho beeactivetoday@gmail.com The successor to the weekly bootcamp famously run by fitness professional Helen Kindness, BeeActive continues the community spirit by bringing together both the fit and unfit to work out on the streets. To take part, drop them an email. Sessions are all held around the To Ngoc Van area, unless stated otherwise.

lthough it’s the Year of the Snake, it’s just about impossible to find any stories that celebrate that scaly beast. What a pity! In the lexicon of lunar animals, snakes are closely related to the most prestigious animal of all, the dragon. Snake years have a potential to slither along bringing great prosperity. They portend rebirth and renewal, symbolised by the snake annually shedding its skin. But in the West snakes have had a bad rep ever since the days of Adam and Eve. And, because it was too easy to lay the blame at Eve’s feet, so, too often, have women. However, although Eve might have been blamed for “original sin”, it since seems to have been claimed as a male prerogative. Mention male sex holidays and the audience might roll their eyes a little, and acquiesce with a titter about “dirty old men”. Mention female sex holidays and the audience will be incredulous, whispering descriptive nouns not suitable for print. Yet among wealthy, single, older women it is one of the western world’s fastest travel growth markets. Over 80,000 a year whisk off to Jamaica and Barbados, many more to southern Europe, with Bali a newer fantasy hotspot. “Jamaican vacation” has become its own sub-genre in e-book erotica. You may think that it’s funny that this column would lower itself to mention e-books. But why be an ostrich? Bookshops, like harpsichords, go into decline and then re-invent themselves as upright pianos or, like dinosaurs, become extinct. And anyway, for certain topics e-books can have their place.

NShape Fitness

Not Just for Men

44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 8246 www.thbc.vn Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but also rents and fixes bicycles. To add to the eclectic, community spirit they also organise bicycle tours, run yoga sessions, hold music concerts in their upstairs cafe area and run a great menu of Spanish tapas served up, if you so wish, with gin & tonic. Quite a mix!

dancing Aspara Dance Studio

Level 3, 141 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6869 Gate 3, Hanoi Academy, Ciputra Tel: 3743 0455 www.apsarastudio.com.vn Cosy, friendly and well equipped dance studios offering dance and fitness classes for adults and children. Classes include ballet, folk dance, jazz, hip-hop, contemporary, belly dance, salsa, zumba and yoga for family. Instructors are qualified and certified from Vietnam Dance College or overseas.

fitness Elite Fitness

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6281 www.elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

Four Seasons Swimming Pool

14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250 This beautiful hotel has a swimming pool for VND40,000 per day, and another VND10,000 for a locker to keep your pantaloons. It might be a good idea to go during the off hours, as it’s a well used pool. But if laps are what you want, the pool is large and, at times, quiet.

Hanoi Bootcamp BeeActive

71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 6266 0495 www.nshapefitness.vn This gym with American Life Fitness

Interest in sex and pornography has forever

** Books of the Month * *

because the reader can enjoy it all salaciously without fear of ominous outcomes. This is because the pact made between Anastasia Steele and Christian Grey is for a not overly extreme form of bondage, at least not compared to some options that can be part of the world of sadomasochism.

Phoenix Rising

This month Bookworm’s Truong ponders the lack of snakes in literature and how e-books have opened up the world of erotic fiction been seen as a proper male privilege. Even when little Billy is caught with copies of dad’s Playboy under his bed it’s considered an almost acceptable rite of passage. But when it’s for women? Anne Rice, author of erotica thirty years ago — stories that have since been re-released into e-book format due to the overwhelming popularity of E. L. James’ Fifty Shades of Grey — says that women have just as much right to literary porn and erotica as men do. Women who read or watch anything pornographic are too often categorised as being overly sexual or slutty. So thank goodness for the digital option that enables women anonymity of literary choice. With e-book ownership

being 70/30 on a female/ male split, it is assumed that many women are indulging more in derided genres such as romance and are downloading easily accessible erotic fiction. After all, Fifty Shades of Grey started its life as a phenomenally successful e-book before outing itself in print Those shades of grey have recently been translated into Vietnamese and are becoming best sellers in real books with a new demographic of devourers of soft porn. Unlike its western incarnation, it also seems to be on many young men’s reading lists. The first book in the Fifty Shades trilogy can become addictive reading due to its staccato delivery of text and

You may wonder if the initial banning of D.H. Lawrence’s Lady Chatterley’s Lover in the UK was from fear that its erotica may have appealed too much to the Eve in female readers. As the publishers wished to appeal to the male market the book’s cover, when it was legalised in Britain in 1960, was of a suggestive phoenix rising from the ashes. Gradually female nudes from classical paintings began reclining invitingly across them followed latterly by full frontal models, taking on the role of Eve the temptress. Now that the lid is off the female market, cover designs are pushing in a new direction; perhaps indicated by one that shows gamekeeper Mellors decidedly tugging at his belt. Not that the conservative, long winded narrative in Lady Chat can compare with the simplistic machine gun delivery of Fifty Shades — and there’s a lot of text to read between the assignations — but perhaps the titillation provided by the new covers may inspire a re-birth of a quality literary read, if only in e-book format. For more information on Bookworm go to www. bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original store in Chau Long in the Truc Bach area, Bookworm have a second, smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in the West Lake area. Located behind the Sheraton and in the same alley as VilaTom Coffee, it can be found at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam, Tay Ho.

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{ CINEMA Buff } **

THE YEAR IN FILM

plantation. Exploring the compound under false pretenses, Django and Schultz arouse the suspicion of Stephen, Candie's trusted house slave. Watch it at MegaStar from Mar. 15

cardio and weight machines, provides a clean, uncrowded environment and expertly staffed facilities with a selection of fitness classes for its members. Classes include boxing, yoga and groupX with both Vietnamese and foreign fitness trainers on hand to give exercisers advice. Membership starts from VND1.5 million per month with no joining fee.

Star Fitness

4th Floor, The Garden, Me Tri, Tu Liem Tel: 3787 5353 This lifestyle, top-end gym in My Dinh offers massage rooms, steam rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis, cold plunge baths, gym areas, exercise studios, locker rooms, and a swimming pool. It is a great option for residents living on the outskirts of the city.

Sunway Health Club

Zero Dark Thirty Director: Kathryn Bigelow Stars: Jessica Chastain, Joel Edgerton, Chris Pratt Genre: Drama, history, thriller Maya is a CIA operative whose first experience is in the interrogation of prisoners following the Al Qaeda attacks against the US on the Sep. 11, 2001. She is a reluctant participant in the extreme duress applied to the detainees, but believes that the truth may only be obtained through such tactics. For several years, she is single-minded in her pursuit of leads to uncover the whereabouts of Al Qaeda's leader, Osama Bin Laden. Finally, in 2011, it appears that her work will pay off, and a US Navy Seal team is sent to kill or capture Bin Laden. But only Maya is confident Bin Laden is where she says he is. Hits the screens on Mar. 1 at MegaStar cinema complexes in Vincom Tower (191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung) and in Pico Mall (229 Tay Son, Dong Da).

Django Unchained Director: Quentin Tarantino Stars: Jamie Foxx, Christoph Waltz and Leonardo DiCaprio Genre: Adventure, drama In the south two years before the civil war, Django, a slave whose brutal history with his former owners is landed face-to-face with German-born bounty hunter Dr King Schultz. Schultz is on the trail of the murderous Brittle brothers, and only Django can lead him to his bounty. Honing vital hunting skills, Django remains focused on one goal; finding and rescuing Broomhilda, the wife he lost to the slave trade long ago. Django and Schultz's search ultimately leads them to Calvin Candie, the proprietor of ‘Candyland’, an infamous

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19 Pham Dinh Ho, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 3888 Very good equipment in this small gym, housed in a little hotel. None of the extra frills that you might expect at a larger place, but all the machines are running and well maintained. Monthly price of membership for non-guests is about VND1.4 million.

The Little Gym of Hanoi Silver Linings Playbook Director: David O. Russell Stars: Bradley Cooper, Jennifer Lawrence and Robert De Niro Genre: Comedy, drama, romance Life doesn't always go according to plan. Pat Solatano has lost everything — his house, his job and his wife. He now finds himself living back with his mother and father after spending eight months in a state institution on a plea bargain. Pat is determined to rebuild his life, remain positive and reunite with his wife, despite the challenging circumstances of their separation. All Pat's parents want is for him to get back on his feet, and to share their family's obsession with the Philadelphia Eagles football team. When Pat meets Tiffany, a mysterious girl with problems of her own, things get complicated. Tiffany offers to help Pat reconnect with his wife, but only if he'll do something very important for her in return. As their deal plays out, an unexpected bond begins to form between them, and silver linings appear in both of their lives. Hits screens on Mar. 15 at MegaStar. Tomboy Director: Céline Sciamma Stars: Zoé Héran, Malonn Lévana, and Jeanne Disson Genre:Drama A French family with two daughters, 10-year-old Laure and 6-year-old Jeanne, moves to a new neighbourhood during the summer holidays. With her Jean Seberg haircut and tomboy ways, Laure is immediately mistaken for a boy by the local kids and passes herself off as Michael. She takes advantage of her new identity hoping that the end of the summer will not reveal her unsettling secret. This movie is in French with Vietnamese subtitles and is being shown at the French Culture Centre (L’Espace) at 8pm on Mar. 15

4th floor, 402 Vincom Centre, Long Bien Tel: 0935 158 555 www.thelittlegym.com.vn A place that aims to show kids the meaning of serious fun. At The Little Gym, a positive environment and bilingual classes create opportunities for children to try things and build selfconfidence, all with a proud grin. Kids from four months through to 12 years are welcome to develop motor skills and more — this is a great way to give your child a brain boost, work on their social skills and get them moving. Besides a range of gymnastics classes, they also host awesome birthday bashes, organise kids camps and arrange parent survival nights.

Vietclimb

forms and attitudes alone tell you they’re no Bad News Bears. If you want to let your skills shine get in contact with Ricky at 0903 413339.

Hanoi Youth Football League

www.hanoiyouthfootball.com/english/home/ The biggest youth football league in the capital. Youths aged 8 to 16 years old come together to play regular tournaments.

Viet Celts

www.vietcelts.com The first and only Gaelic Football league in Hanoi has recently added a women’s team. The teams play in the Southeast Asia Gaelic League as well as in tournaments all over the region. Bring a sporting spirit as a spectator or a player. Call Gareth for more information: 0904 228629.

Vietnam Swans

www.vietnamswans.com In true Aussie style, the Vietnam Swans footballers hold not only weekly matches and training sessions, but social and drinking affairs as well. Concerned just as much with fun as with winning, this club is welcoming to anyone. who is willing galleries to have a good time.

Apricot Gallery

40B Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8965 www.apricot-artvietnam.com This centrally located space houses art by some of Vietnam’s best-known contemporary artists, such as Hoang Hai

swimming pools Army Hotel 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 2896 Four Seasons 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250

So 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho Tel: 5321 9235 www.vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

Hanoi Club 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

Vincharm Spa and Gym

Olympia 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049

6th & 7th floor Vincom Centre, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 8686 www.vincharmspa.com Far more Zen then your average gym, work out to toned-down music while toning up on state of the art equipment, and have a post workout drink at the juice bar. There is even a separate swimming pool for tots, and a full service spa. Top-end equipment and services come with top-end monthly fees — not for the feint-hearted.

football, soccer & rugby Hanoi Capitals Football Club

www.hanoi-capitals.blogspot.com Hanoi Capitals don’t play. This football club is serious about their sport. The uni-

Horison Fitness Center 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808 Melia Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343

Sao Mai 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161 Sofitel Plaza Fitness Center 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888 Than Nhan Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park) Thang Loi Hotel 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

Anh and Dinh Quan, as well as up and coming artists.

Art Vietnam Ngo 66 So Nha 2, Pho Yen Lac, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3862 3184 www.artvietnamgallery.com Now operating from the private residence of owner Suzanne Lecht, Art Vietnam is one of Hanoi's most respected galleries, featuring contemporary art in all its forms: painting, lacquer, photography and video, from both upand-coming and established artists. To see the full list of artworks available, go to the website. Gallery viewing is by appointment only

Hanoi Art Contemporary Gallery 36-38 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 7192 www.hanoi-artgallery.com This art space is home to a large collection of your standard tourist fare along with a smatter of more unique pieces.

Mai Gallery 113 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0568 www.maigallery-vietnam.com Several floors of paintings, regularly changed, by some of the best known contemporary artists in the country, some of whom they’ve helped in gaining international recognition. Mai specialises is finding the perfect décor for both homes and offices.

Maison Des Arts 31 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 8096 www.maisondesartshanoi.com A gallery near the Temple of Literature with several floors bills itself not only as an art gallery, but a multi-purpose social and cultural space. Frequent exhibitions feature both Vietnamese and international artists. Mlle. Nga, who runs the space, also involves herself in several other cultural projects around Hanoi.

Red River Gallery 7 Hang Khay, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 9071 www.redriverartvietnam.com This small gallery has focused on building a collection of traditional Hanoi images with a modern twist since it opened in 1990. The gallery actively seeks out talented young contemporary artists.

Suffusive Gallery 35A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem www.suffusiveart.com Don’t be fooled by the signs hawking café sua da. Hidden within the coffee shop interior is a small gallery showing some of Vietnam’s newest talent.

Viet Fine Arts Gallery 96 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6667 www.vietfinearts.com If you’re looking for a well-known name, and a high price tag to match, Viet Fine Arts sells work by some of Hanoi’s more famous artists.

golf courses Hanoi Club Driving Range 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3623 8115 A fitness club that also boasts a two-level

driving range where the balls are hit into the water. No net means you can gauge your driving. The price for a bucket of golf balls depends on whether or not you’re a member.

Tam Dao Golf and Resort www.tamdaogolf.com Relatively new golf club near the base of the mountains at Tam Dao. It is about two hours from the city, but does provide an 18-hole course with a clubhouse and a spectacular view, surrounded by green hills.

Hairdressers & Salons Binh’s Salon 3 Lane 31/10 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2656 A salon and spa offering a variety of cosmetic services, and specialising in western cuts and colour.

Dinh Hair Salon 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 09877 18899 A small but popular hair salon that serves both expats and locals. The many repeat customers go back because of Dinh’s willingness to both follow instructions, or to be creative when asked. Services include scalp massage, shampooing, colouring and styling.

Frangipani Spa 405 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 6329 2915 www.frangipani.com.vn New garden-themed day spa named after the frangipani flower, known in Vietnam for its healing properties. Services include hair salon, nail care and massages. Details to amenities like bathrobes, slippers and towels provide a comfortable atmosphere.

TA Salon Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 1754 / 3758 2940 (Ciputra). Hotline: 0912 267613 Multi-functional hair and body salon with a range of treatments running from haircut, highlights, shampoo, straightening and perm to hot stone foot and body massages, a range of facials, waxing, bikini lines and body scrub. With a first salon in Ciputra, TA number two is at the Hanoi club. Popular with both western and Asian expats as well as A-class Vietnamese.

The Hair Workshop 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5980 Located in Hanoi Towers, The Hair Workshop has a number of hairdressers used to cutting and styling all types of hair. The prices are significantly higher than they would be on the street, or at a smaller shop, but there are many people who refuse to go anywhere else. A full service salon that also offers such services as waxing.

Hair Space 137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 127554 Run by an Australian expat named Cat, this is a small but comfortable and well-run hair studio located in the Hidden Hanoi building. There is only Cat and her one assistant, so be sure to make an appointment.

Tran Hung Hair Creation 5 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung

Tel: 3943 4946 Located near Reunification Park, Hung has a long list of satisfied clients, both western and Vietnamese. Be prepared to allot one to two hours for a cut and more for colour as Hung is a perfectionist.

kids Hanoi Zoo Off Kim Ma, opposite Daewoo Hotel Tel: 3834 7395 Really as much a park as it is a zoo, you can find Vietnamese families on picnics here on any given day. Strewn throughout, sometimes in curiously small cages, you’ll also find a number of animals large and small, all indigenous to the country. Also, there are other attractions for children such as a fun house, and big, floating plastic balls they can climb into. The One Man Cinema operates out of here at weekends.

Kinderpark 614 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: 3710 1666 www.kinderpark.vn A huge international indoor playground for children of all ages founded by three likeminded mums. The indoor playground covers an impressive 2,000 sqm, and offers activities, birthday parties and a well-trained staff. There is a café for parents to sit in while their children run amok.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Daily shows of traditional rustic Vietnamese carved puppets, animate folkloric tales accompanied by music. This can be fun for adults as well as children.

The Little Gym of Hanoi 4th Floor, 402A Vincom Center, Long Bien Tel: 3515 8555 www.thelittlegym.com/hanoi The newest addition to the Hanoi family entertainment scene, this globally-known brand has more than 300 locations across the world. Has a range of programmes for kids aged four months to 12 years old including gymnastics, karate, dance classes, sports skills and more, with the activities focusing on developing both cerebral and physical capacity. Also hosts birthday parties, organises camps and arranges parents nights.

Tiniworld 51 Xuan Dieu, Syrena Towers; 229 Tay Son, Pico Mall An indoor play-haven for children inside the safety of a shopping centre. Pay an entry fee of VND50,000 and let your kids loose on the jungle gym and video arcade-style games. Small and with enough staff on hand so you can let your kids play, and head out to do a little shopping next door.

Vincom Towers 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung There are a bunch of toy stores and shops for children in the mall area of the second tower. Also, near the food court, you’ll find an arcade with video games and tiny rides for very small kids.

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14 Yen Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3945 4548 www.vienthammyhanoi.com.vn Trained at the Tue Tinh Traditional Hospital, the therapists at this no frills, traditional Vietnamese massage centre use a variety of techniques including tuina, aromatherapy, ayurvedic and shiatsu. Also offer a range of healing treatments as well as not-so-traditional laser and plastic surgery.

Thanh Gia

67 Tran Nhan Tong, Hai Ba Trung For VND50,000, see an array of live performances, both human and animal. Bears ride motorbikes, monkeys do tricks. The acrobatic performances are particularly amazing.

Hanoi International Theatre Society (HITS) www.hitshanoi.com Hanoi’s premiere community theatre group has been entertaining audiences around the city since 2001. The amateur acting society both draws from and gives back to the local community. All profits from the bi-yearly performances are donated to charities in Vietnam.

Hanoi Opera House 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 0113 www.ticketvn.com This French colonial building hosts a packed schedule of cultural events throughout the year, everything from the New York Philharmonic to cutting edge Vietnamese performance art has graced its stage.

Thang Long Ca Tru Theatre 25 Tong dan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3665 54608 Head to this theatre, lodged on the campus of the Vietnam Revolution Museum, for a taste of one of Vietnam’s most traditional musical forms.

Youth Theatre

26 Dinh Ngang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 4183 A small Vietnamese spa and salon. Prices are quite high, but the shop offers a wide

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Kim Dung 38 Nguyen Cong Hoan, Ba Dinh Tel: 3483 50079 Face massage, hair care, manicure, pedicure, this is a one-stop shop for all sorts

57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 Near Truc Bac, Thu Cuc is an allpurpose spa where you can get a full-body massage, a facial, manicure or pedicure in a relaxing environment. Both prices and service are comparable to the West.

Zen Spa 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9889 www.zenspa.com.vn Brushing up against the banks of the Red River, this Indochine-styled day spa hideaway comes replete with an oasis-like bonsai garden and peace and quiet, a perfect tonic to the chaos of the city. Has a range of five-element spa packages as well as just one-off facials and waxings and other treatments. Has a second outlet at 100 Xuan Dieu as well as spas in Hoi An.

sports classes Hoang Cau Sports Centre 59 Hoang Cau, Dong Da Tel: 3511 8030 The distinction of this fitness centre is that they have a large space, filled with a “number of different fields of different sizes”. Includes areas for aerobics, football and rugby. Classes depend, according to the season.

Red River Runners www.redriverrunners.wordpress.com The Red River Runners meet every

Vietnamese Teaching Group 164 Le Thanh Nghi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 7236 9842 www.vietnameseteaching.net Offers not only Vietnamese classes, but also a variety of excursions and events that will help foreigners and expats to better understand Vietnamese culture. Organised and professional, classes are usually sold in blocks, which you pay for in advance.

Vietnam National University B7 Bis, Bach Khoa, Dong Da Tel: 3869 4323 www.vnu.edu.vn/en This national university also offers some language and culture classes to foreigners. Teaching standards are high, and prices are not unreasonable, at around VND150,000 for a one-on-one lesson.

yoga & meditation UNESCO Yoga Center

3B Dang Thai Than, Ba Dinh Tel: 3913 5497 www.yoga.com.vn One of the only yoga studios in town exclusively devoted to the practice. Professional instruction with well-trained teachers, and a very low monthly fee.

Zenith Yoga

Floor 3, 111 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 0904 356561 www.zenithyogavietnam.com A premier studio offering some of the best yoga, pilates and tai chi in town. Kids’ yoga, prenatal yoga and meditation are also available. Professional instruction along with a peaceful atmosphere creates one of the most zen places in Hanoi. Drop in classes are available for VND200,000 and a month unlimited class pass costs VND1.8 million.

Sky-High The best scams are those that the victim doesn’t notice, at least until it’s too late. Telco roaming ripoffs have had quite a lot of press coverage of late. But that hasn’t prompted a change of heart from the telecommunication companies. Banks, meanwhile, whose treatment of travellers is almost as shabby, get off very lightly. Many travellers have never even noticed that they’re being had. And just like dodgy taxi drivers, tour operators and market sellers, telcos and banks exploit the ignorance and vulnerability of travellers. It’s hard to imagine a more bald faced rip-off than the charges global telcos impose on loyal customers that have the temerity to travel internationally. By my estimate, you’ll pay around 100 times the price locals pay for international calls and up to 1,000 times the price locals pay for data in most countries while roaming. Unsuspecting travellers are still being caught out with bills in the thousands after a few weeks away with regular call and data usage.

Go Local Buy a local SIM card wherever you are. This is easier in some countries than others. In Vietnam and Cambodia, it’s very straightforward. And stay with services like Skype, Viber and Whatsapp. You’ll need an unlocked phone if you want to change SIM cards. If you’re from the US, good luck. The land of the free recently made it illegal to unlock phones. They’re even threatening huge fines and prison terms for offenders. In Vietnam, a new company called Tourisim is offering a SIM card designed for travellers. No confusing visits to the telco offices. Everything’s in English, including a support line. Prices start from VND200,000 with some local and international calls thrown in. You can even buy a new handset and SIM for VND600,000. They’re available at the places tourists congregate — airports, hotels

and supermarkets, and even from street vendors. If you need to keep your home mobile number active, Skype has some inexpensive premium services that provide cheap calls and you can even forward your mobile number back home to a Skype number back home (a local call) that follows you around the world. With it, you can keep your main mobile number functional while bypassing ugly roaming charges. Here in Vietnam, we’re fortunate that free WiFi is ubiquitous in cafes, bars, restaurants and most hotels. Remarkably, a handful of fivestar hotels refuse to follow the trend and continue to charge their guests silly prices for internet access. Some travellers to Vietnam get a decent room, breakfast and free WiFi for the price others pay for WiFi. Go figure. In the West, access to free WiFi is far more patchy. And in many countries, hotels persist with high internet charges.

Mark Bowyer is publisher of the Vietnam and Cambodia travel guide — www.rustycompass.com. You can contact him on mark@ rustycompass.com.

Don’t Forget… And those banks? While you can take steps to minimise your exposure to nasty roaming and internet charges, the banks have you by the proverbial…. After all, you need to access your money when you travel. Have you ever thought to calculate the margin your bank

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There’s no cost basis for the huge gap between local and roaming charges. They’re purely opportunistic. Remember that taxi driver? He was being opportunistic, too. But at least he only got away with a few dollars. To get around this, get yourself off the roaming network completely. Dump your local telco as soon as you leave home.

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112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 4686 Private rooms with showers, a beautifully designed interior, well-trained and professional staff. The place to go if you want to forget a busy work week, or the busy streets.

136 Ho Tung Mau, Tu Liem A little bit hard to find, but Van Tue Thang Long offers quite a bit of room, with a sit-down restaurant and a few tennis courts. Facilities are a bit run down, but a place to go if you want to play tennis on concrete courts.

11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hoan Kiem A few blocks south of Hoan Kiem Lake, this community theatre space hosts both music events and theatre productions.

Santal Spa

Van Tue Thang Long

18 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 38 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem One of a number of foot massage parlours in town that has treatments focusing as much on the pressure points of your feet at they do on the rest of your body. Strong hands, unbranded oils and, if you ask, tiger balm oil.

Hanoi Circus

34 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4862 www.orchids-spa.com Just a few steps away from bia hoi corner, the unisex Orchids spa recently one a VTV award for being one of the top spas in Hanoi. Treatments range from facials through to waxing, saunas and slimming treatments.

95 Chua Boc, Dong Da A wide sports pitch that also offers a swimming pool and a football field – if you get tired of tennis. Football fields are almost always crowded, but even for tennis it might be good to go during the off hours.

makes on each foreign currency transaction when you use your credit card or an ATM abroad? When you use an ATM, you’re asked if you accept a fee. But that’s only one of three places you get hit — it’s usually the least costly. And no-one alerts you to the other charges or asks whether you accept them. There’s the ATM owner’s fee. These are reasonable in Vietnam but brutal in Cambodia. There’s your bank’s fee. These can be as much as 8 percent. And then there’s the margin on the foreign currency exchange that your bank charges — in the samples I used, 2 percent to 4 percent. It can easily run as high as 10 percent on transactions between US$100 and US$200. That’s US$10 to withdraw US$100. And to top it off, at no time will you ever be in possession of a single document that itemises these three charges. Some banks with global networks offer preferred ATM charges for their customers. Others are releasing complicated ‘traveller’ cards that giveth with one hand and taketh with the other. So next time you’re enraged by a taxi driver or cyclo that’s fleeced you out of VND100,000, think how much you’ve lost to your bank or telco. That’s if you can find a way to calculate it.

Hanoi Aesthetic Institute

performing arts

Orchids Spa

Thuy Loi Sports Complex

Photo by Mark Bowyer

237 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 6671 2249 www.justmassage.org.vn Aromatherapy, Swedish, shiatsu and pregnancy massages all given by the hands and touch of nine visually impaired therapists. The massages here are professional and, of course, in aid of a great cause. Check their website for their range of promotions.

52 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8344 They offer a long-lasting, professional manicure and pedicure service for barely more than you would pay to get your nails cut on the street. The staff doesn’t speak much English, but they have an extensive menu to choose from.

e’ve all heard of them, the common scams that afflict travellers to Vietnam. Dodgy taxis, standover cyclo drivers, fraudulent tour operators. While Vietnam rates pretty well in terms of safety for travellers, travel blogs are littered with tales of nasty scams. Vietnam’’s scams are real and serious, and definitely shouldn’t be trivialised. But while many travellers will escape the local scammer, only an exceptional traveller escapes another kind of scam — telecommunication company and bank ripoffs. And they’ll hit your wallet a lot more than most of the stuff you’ll encounter in-country.

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Just Massage

Top Spot

tennis

** Travel scams and ripoffs? Check your telco and bank * *

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massage

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 sparec@sofitelhanoi.vnn.vn A five-star spa for a five-star hotel, this colonial-style centre of relaxation is pure luxury. Choose the genre of music you want to hear in your treatment room from a menu, select anything from themenamed facials through to traditional, Vietnamese-style massages, and indulge. It comes at price, but when you’ve just got to treat yourself…

57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 www.thucucbeauty.com This all-purpose beauty salon offers spa pedicures in a Zen-like atmosphere where your manicurist won’t be chatting on her mobile phone.

Le Spa Du Metropole

UNIS Community Education UN International School, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org The UN International School is located between West Lake and the highway heading to Noi Bai Airport. They have great facilities and offer a number of different classes throughout the year.

By Mark Bowyer

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www.hanoibaseball.com If you’re looking for a little league baseball team in Hanoi, this is the website to check out. One of the first, if not still the only, such club in town, their mission is to teach young people about the game, teamwork and to have a great time. Practice every Saturday at Xuan Dinh Field from 6.15 to 8.30 am

Thu Cuc Exotical Spa

35 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9461 This all-purpose spa offers the full menu: massage, nails, skincare at reasonable prices. Discounts offered to regular customers.

{ t r a v e l Notes}

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Hanoi Little League Baseball

Lancy Spa

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www.hanoih3.com This big, assorted “family” gets together every week to go on out of town excursions, for hour-long runs along paths marked by flour spots, and with no lack of beer stops along the way. Drink and get into shape at the same time, and add some sightseeing into the picture. Emphasis here is on fun. Bus leaves on Saturdays from the American Club on Hai Ba Trung at 2pm in summer and 1:30pm in winter.

271 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3725 2359 One of a chain of all-purpose beauty salons that specialises in manicures and pedicures. This place has a lot of business from word of mouth, so it’s best to call ahead and make an appointment.

1 80

Hanoi Hash House Harriers

LinkQ

Saturday to run through the fields and suburbs skirting the Red River in Hanoi. The group organises races, such as the annual Hanoi Triathlon and the Song Hong Half Marathon, which are community events that help to add a different, more social dimension to fitness and sport in the capital.

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www.fvheritage.org A non-profit organization devoted to the culture of Vietnam. People from all over the world join together to educate themselves and others on Vietnam and preserve its heritage. The organization holds events such as lectures, city walks and excursions available to the public.

of comfort services and products. Facilities are clean and modern. Hairstyling also available.

Friends of Vietnamese Heritage

range of services in addition to manicure/ pedicure.

leisure general

March 2013 Word | 101

Fashion

near the Temple of Literature carries contemporary looks based on traditional Vietnamese styles.

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive Contraband 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem list of our listings Tel: 3928 9891

LISTINGS

accessories & footwear 104 clothing 104 lingerie 105 shopping malls 105

sportswear 105 tailors 105 opticians & glasses 105

accessories & footwear Boo Skateshop

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3923 1147 This skateshop offers a variety of clothes, shoes and skateboarding equipment. Most of the T-shirts are made and designed in Vietnam, while the shoes and other equipment are made for export, often rejected due to minor defects. Staff is knowledgeable about Hanoi’s best skateboarding spots.

Euro Fashion Shoes

26, 84/16 Ngoc Khanh Tel: 0904153041 While you may have to dig through piles of mismatched or orthopaedic-looking shoes, this shop is full of hidden gems in larger sizes, a rare find in Hanoi.

Euro Shoes

320 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem If you’re looking for a diamond in the rough, head for Euro shoes, which has a wide selection of options, many of which you’ll want to give a pass. Often carries larger sizes than most Vietnamese retailers.

Handmade shoes

18 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 5357 This cobbler’s shop repairs shoes and makes shoes to order. The staff speaks limited English, so it’s best to bring along your favourite pair to get copied.

Huong’s Jewellery Shop

62 Hang Ngan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 1046 A small store specialising in silver necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and pendants. While Huong’s merchandise is mostly silver or pearl, the staff will also make jewellery to order.

Ipa-Nima

73 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 4000 Started by Hong Kong born designer Christina Yu, Ipa-Nima’s stores are filled with their one-of-a-kind purses and accessories. Their use of colour, a unique design philosophy and hand done embellishments appeals to jetsetters and fashionistas from Los Angeles to Paris. Always eye-catching and trendy, Ipa-Nima accessories are tangibly timeless and sophisticated.

Kinh Mat Ha Thanh

2 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: 3928 6556 Large selection of lenses as well as biomedic contact lenses imported from the US. But buyer beware, lenses in Vietnam usually aren’t scratch-resistant.

London Diamond Gallery

21 Nguyen Huy Tu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4972 6327 www.londondiamondgallery.com Home to the world’s finest gemstones, master craftsmen and jewellery experts, London Diamond Gallery is among the most established jewellery houses in the world, with an international presence that spans across England, Japan, Hong Kong

102 | Word March 2013

and South-East Asia.

Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

EOS Fashion and Décor

Sofitel Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen. Tel: 3824 4977 This boutique offers an exclusive collection of the French designer handbags and accessories.

45 Phan Dinh Phuong, Ba Dinh Tel: 3629 78574 The limited stock in this clothing store is made up for by the unique design of the pieces, which are refreshed by the designer every month.

Three Trees

George’s Fashion Boutique

Louis Vuitton

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8725 The jewellery on offer, designed by a Belgian expat, often features chunkier gold shapes with small, well-placed diamonds. Hidden in the back of the store there is also a display case featuring less-expensive costume jewelry.

Tina Sparkle

17 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 7616 An eclectic assortment of costume jewelry and Chula dresses are scattered among a wide collection of bags by one of Vietnam’s most popular designers, Ipa-Nima. Check out the seasonal sales for heavy discounts.

Vietnam Optical

138B Giang Vo, Ba Dinh Tel: 3736 5505 This all-purpose eyewear shop offers free eye exams and a wide selection of frames. Usually there is at least one English-speaking staff present. The quick and easy service means you will be out of the store, lenses in hand, in an hour.

clothing Beo Boutique

54 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8997 www.beo.vn The answer for women who struggle with the Hanoi heat. A locally owned boutique selling simple, unfussy clothing in light and easy to wear styles, perfect for when the humidity rises. Most clothing is made from cotton or silk, but they also have felted jackets for the colder weather. As well as off the rack, do custom orders.

BOOCiti

308 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 5426 www.booskateshop.com BOOCiti is a combination of shop, cafe and office. The successor to the famous skate shops that started out from meager roots, this stylishly designed location was opened in July 2011. Stocking the Boo label BoSua and more, the space provides its customers with a ‘unique’ shopping experience.

Calvin Klein

19-21 Dinh Tien Hoang ; 61-63 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name then Calvin Klein’s lakeside store has got it pretty much sewn up. Underwear sits next to jeans going for around VND2.5 million and a range of quality CK shirts, belts and more. By Hanoi standards, prices are high, but think relative. VND5 million for an original, welltailored pigskin jacket is pretty good going.

Coco Silk

37A Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 1535 High-end silk clothing retailer located

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, el: 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-to-measure service are available at no extra cost.

Ginkgo T-Shirts

44 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem; 79 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem www.ginkgo-vietnam.com An environmentally conscious and fairtrade company that offers unique designs and a quality product, Ginkgo t-shirts sport ethnic and modern graphics in a rainbow of colors. The company began in Ho Chi Minh City and now has five outlets around Vietnam. These shirts make great gifts or souvenirs, perfect for proving to disbelievers overseas that you’ve visited the home of the conical hat.

Hanoi Silk

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 3062 www.hanoisilkvn.com Located on the ground floor of the Sofitel Plaza Hotel, this silk shop offers a highquality selection of ready-made items. The most popular sellers include robes, linensilk blend shirts, ties and jackets.

Isalyna

1 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3762 4405 www.isalyna.com The retail outlet for local designer Teddie Tran, who believes that fashion is all about “attitude”. Accordingly, the store’s pieces are mostly basics that can be combined with a range of high-quality leather accessories and jewellery for a unique fashion statement.

Kana

41 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 6208 Reasonably priced handmade silk clothing and accessories in a wide range of patterns sized to fit western bodies.

Ken Shop

108 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0256 A popular stop for silk lovers, this store is all about soft and light fabrics. Silk, cotton and silk cotton mixes in creamy summer colours or eclectic prints. Ken has a wide range on offer, from casual summer skirts to fancy dresses. A cute collection of toys made of cotton and imported jewellry and accessories are also for sale.

Kenly Silk

108 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7236 www.kenlysilk.com Instantly recognizable with its two-pillared

shop front, Kenly prides itself on professional guidance and high-quality materials from a design’s conception to finish. The shop caters to everything from fashion shows to personal designs.

offers unique Japanese-designed dresses and shirts. The second floor has a selection of home goods. There is a loyalty program for frequent customers.

The three-storey shop offers everything from clothes and hand-embroidered baby pillows to sumptuous silk bedding.

Khai Silk

Nuna Nunong

100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Racks of flowery frocks line the walls, and handmade fabric garlands hang from the ceiling. You will also find a wide selection of handmade goods, such as hand-painted mugs, totes and baskets of increasingly popular animal pillows.

61 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1154 800sqm of elegant, modern space that offers one-of-a-kind pieces to add to your home furnishings or wardrobe. Located across the street from the other Tan My, one of the oldest silk and embroidery stores in Hanoi.

133 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 4237 One of the better established silk shops in Hanoi, this store also has a satellite shop in the Sofitel Metropole. With outlets throughout the country, this household name is a great place to go for ready-made silk items. You may find better deals at other shops, but with the highest quality silk, at Khai you pay for what you get.

L’Atelier

No 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3668 5509 www.ateliervietnam.com Designer store where Le Duyen Huong features her creations and matching accessories and shoes. The trendy shop exudes a pleasant and warm atmosphere and collections change often. Offers tailoring for local and export markets.

Luala Boutique

61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 9899 www.luala.vn Close to the Opera House, this “concept store” dressed up as a spacious boutique and café is aimed at the luxury, lifestylefocused end of the local market. Has clothing and accessories for men and women and stocks the likes of Vera Wang, Nina Ricci, Elie Saab, Paul & Joe and much more. Also slated to show contemporary Vietnamese art. Check out their website for latest arrivals and their full range of brands.

Magoon

19 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 9 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem A small fashion house with many outlets around the city, Magoon offers one-of-akind lady like fashions. They have a bit of everything from jackets and dresses to knitwear. The prices are affordable and the merchandise changes often. The main studio is on Au Trieu.

Marie-Linh Couture

11 Nha To, Hoan Kiem 74 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Parisian-style clothing combined with quality Vietnamese dressmaking skills. The beautiful clothes are available in silk, organza and linen. Also available for online orders. With the accompanying home décor and accessories shop on 38 Hang Trong, it is possible to live an entire life of couture.

Metiseko

40-42 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem www.metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

Moon

111 Ma May, Hoan Kiem This small shop carries handmade embroidered linen and silk clothes that are usually less expensive than those found at the larger stores. The shop owners make most of the clothes themselves, so they will adjust designs to fit personal tastes.

Nagu

20 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem www.zantoc.com Walk past the rows of teddy bears and head for the small rack of clothing, which

Pure Heaven

55 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6290 If the classic storefront doesn’t draw you in, the clothing will. The Scandinavian showroom is clean and streamlined, emulating the modern but simple clothing contained within. Cottons and knitwear are the main focus in the European designed clothing for women and children. Prices are affordable and the quality is great.

Song

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 6965 This boutique, whose name comes from the Vietnamese word for “life”, stocks high-end linen and silk clothes in a serene store awash with the fresh scent of mint. Located just across the street from the cathedral, prices are on par with its higher-end neighbours.

Tan My

66 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 1579 www.tanmyembroidery.com.vn Located in the heart of the old quarter, on “silk street”, Tan My claims to be Hanoi’s oldest silk and embroidery shop and boasts customers like Hillary Clinton.

Supermarkets Big C Supermarket 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay Citimart Hanoi Towers 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

Tan My Design

Things of Substance

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

Runway

13 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 6260 www.runway.vn The second branch of the flagship store located in Ho Chi Minh City, Runway sells only authentic designer collections from all over the world. The large store located in the Sun City Building mimics what a designer boutique should look like, with an all white interior. If you are in need of a designer fix, Runway is your answer, but be warned, the prices match the labels.

Sole 21

21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1968 A distinctly designed boutique around the corner from the cathedral, bringing the latest from European and American Designers. Think Jimmy Choo, Kate Spade and Top Shop. Mark-up seems high on some pieces, but all designers are authentic. No fakes here.

Vinatex

25 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem In-town factory outlet for the Vinatex clothing corp. Carries items for men, women and children at low prices.

lingerie Ana Mai

Citimart Vincom Towers 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho This small boutique stocks lingerie similar to Parisian designers Agent Provocateur and Cosabella.

Fivimart 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart.com.vn

Aubade

52 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3822 9051 Pretty, lacy underwear imported from France. Carries mostly small sizes, up to a western sized medium.

Minoshe

59 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem This popular store carries a wide range of bras and underwear. Additional locations in Hanoi Towers and Vincom Towers.

shopping malls Hanoi Star Supermarket 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da Intimex 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da Metro 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

Hang Da Galleria

Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 9999 This small shopping mall is conveniently located in the centre of the Old Quarter, with all the standard small stores as well as a range of boutiques selling the wares of Vietnamese designers. The Highlands outdoor café is a perfect place to sit and watch the Old Quarter ebb and flow.

Hanoi Towers

49 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem The retail space on the first floor of this complex includes everything from a golf shop to a hair salon. After shopping you can enjoy a cup of coffee at the Highlands Café or a sandwich at Papa Joe’s.

Ocean Park Luxury Mall

36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0737 Shopping mall includes international designers such as Versace collection, Dolce and Gabbana, and Roberto Botticelli.

Parkson

Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da www.parkson.com This Malaysian-owned department store prides itself on making the shopping experience one that is “more exciting and fun”. Unlike many of Hanoi’s retailers, this megastore is also appealing to those who just want to browse. Departments include men’s, women’s and children’s clothing as well as home furnishings.

Pico Mall

299 Tay Son, Dong Da Newly renovated mall housing international stores like French Connection, Nike, and Adidas. A touch far from the centre, but distance brings lower levels of noise and customers, making it a nice option for shopping spree. Also has a movie theatre, a Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf and a food court.

Trang Tien Plaza

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This large shopping centre located at the southern tip of Hoan Kiem Lake includes shopping options for every price range. Bargain bins full of locally-produced clothing stand beside a Nike retail outlet. Offerings also include a cosmetics department and multiple electronics retailers.

Vincom Towers

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 9999 A shopping plaza offering a range of international brands such as Levi’s, United Colours of Benetton, Nike, Adidas and Geox.

sportswear Adidas

83 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel:3828 7190 www.adidas.com The capital city’s flagship store of the international retailer of sport clothing and equipment.

B.Ball

65A Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da Tel:3224 10780 bball.com.vn This hoops-themed store sells balls, basketball shoes and jerseys of the madein-China variety.

Hanoi Club Golf Shop

at the course.

tailors Cao Minh Tailors

250 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3939 3594 www.caominh.com Located near Cua Nam street at the westernmost end of Hang Bong, this established tailor with over 50 years of experience specialises in quality materials from Italy and England. The go-to place for top-of-therange suits and shirts for all occasions. The shop is new and the service spot on.

18 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 9925 Though this tailor offers both men’s and women’s clothing, the well made dresses displayed in the window and the range of bright colours and patterns caters mostly to female tastes. Located in the shadow of the cathedral, it’s a little pricier, but you pay for the view.

Ngoc Shop

64 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3943 4747 This English-speaking tailor located near the fabric market off Pho Hue offers a seasonal collection of ready-made designs. The owner will also copy clothing or sew from your own designs. Fabric can be picked out in the shop or you can bring your own.

Ms Tam

Tel: 0989 098903 With a long list of foreign clientele, Ms Tam works from her home not too far outside of central Hanoi. She will pay a visit to where you live to take measurements and then bring the final clothes back a few days later. She also carries a book of fabric swatches for those who truly want to skip the shopping experience.

Phuong Linh Tailor

99 Son Tay, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 083674 Exceptional quality at very reasonable prices, Phuong Linh may not speak English but her and her team make every effort to understand the task at hand. From copying your favourite garments to creating something new or from a magazine, Phuong and her girls succeed in getting it right time and time again.

Thanh Ha

114 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Located in the heart of the old quarter, this tailor caters mostly to tourists, but a large collection of Vogue pattern books makes communication very easy.

Opticians & Glasses Sunglasses Street

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com A small shop on the first floor of the Hanoi Club sells a range of equipment to fulfill your golfing needs, including clubs, balls and clothes.

Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name, well here its all in a number — two of them in fact, 51 & 58. Not exactly conventional opticians — the rows of shops here do sell frames with lenses and have basic eye-testing services — but if its sunglasses with brand names super-glued on top, here is the place.

Nike

Thu Ha Kinh Thuoc

Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung www.nike.com With multiple locations open, and more to come, Nike retails high-end sports clothing and accessories, including yoga mats and water bottles.

Tolia

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Also known as the “Russian shop”, Tolia retails overstock outdoor wear made for export. Brands include Jack Wolfskin, The North Face and Patagonia.

Zone Golf

Hanoi Towers, 49 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3936 3233 This centrally-located shop carries all the equipment and gear you need for a day

134 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3943 4570 Free eye testing in this well-known, German-trained opticians that also doubles up as a medical clinic and pharmacy specialising in eye problems. Sells a range of branded and no n-branded spectacles and sunglasses. Located opposite the National Hospital of Ophthalmology.

VietnamOptical

48 Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung & 231 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 3736 5505 www.kinhmatvietnam.com.vn Chain of opticians, glasses and sunglasses stores selling a range of branded and Chinese-imported frames starting at VND100,000 a go and rising to over VND2 million. The in-store optometrist gives free eye tests. Helpful, English-speaking staff.

March 2013 Word | 103

Home

LISTINGS bakeries 106 crafts 106 furniture 106 groceries 106 Kitchen Products 107

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings liquor & wine 107 markets 107 pets 107

bakeries Donkey Bakery

8 Nguyen Hoang Ton, Tay Ho www.donkey-donuts.com Founded as a donut shop, it now also offers a wide range of German-inspired breads for those who favour nutrition over sugar. A loaf of rye bread rings in at VND40,000. Donuts, breads, cookies and sandwiches can be ordered online and delivered to your home or office. The bakery employs mostly disabled persons and is dedicated to providing them with high-quality training and care.

Kinh Do

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem One of the oldest and most wellestablished bakeries in the city, maybe best known as Catherine Deneuve’s former haunt, Kinh Do has been around much longer than any expat. But their breads, pastries and quiches keep foreigners and Vietnamese coming back. Extensive Western and Vietnamese menu as well.

Le Croissant

21 Ha Hoi, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3943 6707 www.hoasuaschool.com A well established and well respected Hanoi institution. Le Croissant not only makes excellent baked goods of all kinds, but is also part of the NGO Hoa Sua, a school for disadvantaged children that teaches them life changing skills.

Paris Deli

6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 6697 With two locations, one by the Opera House and the other by St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the Paris Deli makes a good job of their breads, tarts and pastries. Both are sit-down restaurants, but are happy to sell you their baked goods over the counter, to go.

Thu Huong Bakery

35C Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 3868 A small but popular Vietnamese-style bakery selling all types of sweets and cakes, luxuriously decorated. They also sell baguettes and sliced breads. They also deliver.

crafts Craftlink

43 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: 3843 7710 www.craftlink.com.vn This non-profit organisation helps traditional artisans seek new markets. for sale in the retail space include handmade textiles from the northern provinces.

Indigenous

36 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0977 799911 A crafts and home furnishings shop stocked by the Hold The Future organisation, which helps disabled and underprivileged children in Hanoi and northern provinces.

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Marie Linh Home Decor

38 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0436 www.marie-linh-design.com This newly-opened shop sells specially designed decorative objects in traditional Vietnamese lacquer and pottery in unique styles. It also retails small accessories that are easy to pack in your suitcase. Items are sold in the shop and online.

Mekong Quilts

58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem; 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 0473063682 Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

furniture Bamboo Furniture Corner

Cnr. Quang Trung & Tran Nhan Trong, Hai Ba Trung This cluster of furniture shops offer lowpriced bamboo products from baskets and desks to drawers.

Bellizeno

130D Thuy Khue, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3825 1343 The factory location of the Bellizeno bedding company includes a retail space for their high thread count sheets and bedding.

Carpet Street

There are a number of made-to-order carpet and rug stores along Kim Ma from roughly number 239 to 299.

Chi Vang

63 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3936 0601 Located near the lake, this store offers a wide range of embroidered bedding and tablecloths. Items can be purchased in the store or hand-embroidered to order.

Cotyledon

1A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 7887 This shop stocks high-end duvet and cushion covers, quilts and tableware like runners and placemats.

Darling Hanoi

Tel: 01282 273717 info@darlinghanoi.com www.darlinghanoi.com Photowalls and Wallpaper of the highest quality. Create a photowall from your own image or choose an image from their large online catalogue. Inspiring and unique wall décor for private homes, offices and reception areas, hotel rooms and foyers, restaurants and bars. PVC-free, UV-resistant and moisture-resistant, all the paper is made in Sweden and shipped free within Hanoi.

Dome

10 Yen The, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3843 6036 www.dome.com.vn Internationally run furniture store with

three large outlets in Hanoi. They offer ‘affordable luxury’ goods such as pillows, bed linens and other home wears, in addition to making custom furniture.

industry, each branch sells trendy furniture for modern living as well as interior design for all types Vietnamese houses.

European IKEA Shop

Van Loi

35 Ngo Thanh Mie, Dong Da This tiny shop carries a small collection of IKEA brand furniture, but can order more from the catalogue.

Grand Bois

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This high-end wooden furniture store located on the first floor of Hanoi Towers has offered best-selling designs for a decade. The classic pieces are mostly constructed out of dark wood and are complemented with cream-coloured linen lampshades and cushions.

Hanoi Moment

101 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 7170 This shop makes sifting through lacquer kitchenware and accessories easy. While its stock may not differ from the stores next door, the display is less overwhelming.

La Casa

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 4084 www.lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

Mai Long

71 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 5393 This shop sells material for curtains and window blinds. They make house calls to measure and install.

Maroon

156 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 7264 Nestled in the heart of the old quarter, Maroon sells accent pieces to brighten up any household: lacquer picture frames, lamps, and silk bedding.

Metiseko

Module 7

83 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 7247 www.module7design.com Open since 2002, this interior design firm and home store creates modern and simple collections. They use local materials and traditional craftsmanship for a cool mix of contemporary Vietnamese living spaces. Their showroom showcases floor to ceiling windows, which allows for a bright open design centre.

Mosaique Boutique

22 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 6181 www.mosaiquedecoration.com Hard to miss, this bright green boutique blends Vietnamese traditionalism with modern flair. The result is a shop selling intricate lamps, lacquers and fun home wears. Handmade jewellery and crafts are also scattered around the store.

UMA

CT 6 My Dinh, Tu Liem; 147 Doi Can, Ba Dinh; 210 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3972 7412 www.uma.vn Designers and retailers within the interior

87 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 6758 www.vanloi.com This store is an impressive mix of fusionwestern furniture and home accessories. All furniture is hand crafted by artisans meaning top-end quality, but with price tags to match.

Velvet Underground

Tel: 3716 0400 www.velvetunderground.biz This shop offers a range of ready made items, from bedding to hot water bottle covers as well as the option of designing your own item from a choice of fabrics. The friendly and helpful English-speaking staff make shopping a pleasure instead of a chore.

groceries Au Delice

3 The Giao, Ha Ba Trung, Tel: 3972 0584 www.au-delice-online.com A European style deli and grocery store with all sorts of imported products for your dinner parties or a homesick night in. Their claim is to have the best selection of cheeses in Hanoi.

Betterday

100 A Xuan Dieu, Tel: 4258 3511 www.betterday.com.vn Hanoi’s speciality organic shop has a small stock of locally grown products including coffee, tea, cashews, a range of spices and beauty products produced in Sapa. Better Day Organics products are also available at the following stores: L’s Place, Oasis and Donkey Donuts

Classic Fine Foods

19/298 Ngoc Lam, Gia Lam, Tel: 3873 6079 www.classicfinefoods.com The place to go for imported foods such as foie gras, high-quality meats, pastas and dairy products. Although they specialise in the wholesale market, they occasionally do retail sales.

Hung Long Minimart

71B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 6220 This little store around Westlake has the feeling of one of those small ethnic markets you find in London or New York, but the ethnicity is Western. Reasonably priced canned foods, potato chips, cookies and other snacks that may be difficult to find elsewhere in the city.

L’s Place

3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho; 34 A Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem Cramped and crammed to the bursting point with imported food products, making your way around the maze that is L’s Place can often be a tight affair, but it’s worth it. The canned and packaged goods together with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and more can provide the dietary solution for anyone craving for a change from pho ga or bun cha.

Naturally Vietnam

So 4, Ngo 67, Ngach 67/12 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.naturallyvietnam.com Owned by ASVELIS, Naturally Vietnam is the first and only food shop in Hanoi offering free-range poultry products with a sanitary quality in compliance with Vietnamese norms and close to the international standards of the World Organisation for Animal Health (OIE) and the Codex Alimentarius Commission (CODEX). Also has a wide range of organic, safe vegetables, and many other traceable food products made in Vietnam.

Electronics Cameras A Dong Photo Co 128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0732 This camera shop retails a wide range of cameras, including both analogue and DSLR models, as well as film and accessories like flashes and lenses. Alpha Laptop 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418 This laptop retail and repair shop also carries camera accessories and cases. Fuong May Anh 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568 This small store has a wide selection of Viet Nam-produced Pentax cameras. Also has a selection of imported lenses. Nguyen Cau 1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem This camera shop overlooking the lake develops both digital and film prints. Services include photo mounting and passport photos. Computers and Electronics DK Computer 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772 This large electronics retailer deals in computers, printers, as well as external storage devices. Hi-Tech USA 23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 6261 A small, but good all-around electronics store, selling all kinds of electronics. Speakers, I-Pods, headphones, cables and phone accessories. Many name-brands. Pico Plaza 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This is a super-sized electronics shop with each floor devoted to a specific kind of electronics. You’ll be able to find pretty much anything you’re looking for here, from a phone to a computer to a washing machine. Professional Computer Care and IT Services No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0983 011081 This service company can help with a just about any computerrelated task. Computer repairs, set up, Wi-Fi, design, networking and development. On-site and off-site service, and free quotes. Vietsad 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771 Located on bustling “computer street”, this shop offers a range of computer accessories including keyboards and USB drives. They also do computer and laptop repair.

Punto Italia

62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 6258 3510 www.puntoitalia.asia Punto Italia is an authentic Italian supplier importing the finest espresso coffee as well as Italian coffee machines for professional, home and office use. Real Italian granita, ice-cream and much more is now available in Vietnam with the support of a professional and friendly service.

Rock Candy

28 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 6492 9597 Rockcandy.com.vn If you have a sweet tooth this store was made for you. Near the corner of Ly Quoc Su, Rock Candy specializes in the obvious, traditional rock candy. You can sample before you buy, and Rock Candy is available for weddings, private and corporate functions.

Veggie’s

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 4719 4630 International grocer at the end of Xuan Dieu, Veggie’s remains one of the best suppliers of western foods in the city. Stock includes organic granola bars, frozen corn dogs and shelves full of cereal. When searching for baking supplies, this store is your best bet. Also, due to having their own farm in Dalat, sell some of the best locally grown non-standard vegetables in town.

Vine Cellar Door

7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.

The Oasis

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and home-made foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the in-house kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.

Yuki’s

54 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6192 New on the scene, this grocer on Xuan Dieu has a large selection of fruits and seafood downstairs. Upstairs is reserved for a grocery store carrying western goods.

Kitchen Products Kitchen Art

38/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 6680 2770 www.kitchenart.vn Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.

Punto Italia

62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 3510 info@puntoitalia.asia www.puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.

markets

liquor & wine Bacchus Corner

1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

Da Loc

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 1325 This wine importer and distributor has over 250 different types of wine in its portfolio and is doing its part to bring a culture of fine wine to Hanoi. The main office and showroom is on Hai Ba Trung and an upscale outlet is located within the grounds of the Mercure Hanoi hotel on Ly Thoung Kiet.

Hanoi Gourmet

1B Ham Long, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3943 1009 Not just a wine shop, the long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

Pane E Vino Wine Shop

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

Red Apron

18 Yen The Tel: 3747 4889 15a Ngo Van So Tel: 3943 7226 28 Xuan Dieu Tel: 3719 8337 #6, Lane 1, Au Co Tel: 3718 6271 Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu Tel: 3823 8749 The retail face of wine distributor Celliers d’Asia, this small wine shop is in the French Quarter, adjacent to the Metropole. The focus here is on quality and the portfolio ranges from French to Chilean to the barrage of wines coming from Down Under. Delivery service available.

Cho Hom

Corner of Pho Hue and Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung One of the best places in the city to buy fabrics. Found a tailor, want to make clothes? Here you’ll find everything you need, stuff imported and domestic, silk, cotton, linen. Also any sewing materials you might need can be found here.

Cho Sinh Vien

Xuan Thuy and Pham Hung, Cau Giay The Student Market, across from Hanoi National University, caters to students. Mostly durable goods, clothing and accessories here. As far as style and size of clothes, selection is a bit limited, but if you take your time you may find something worth the trouble. The market, as well as the food stalls surrounding it, are open quite late. Prices are also tailored for the student budget.

Dong Xuan

Dong Xuan, Hoan Kiem The biggest market of it’s kind in Hanoi, Dong Xuan is filled with pretty much any durable good you can think of: from jeans to jewelry, from leaf tea to livestock. The indoor market spills out onto the streets, which can also serve a good place to get a meal pretty much any time.

Flower Market

Au Co, East Side of Street The name can be a little deceptive, since it’s more of a distribution point, where flowers come in to vendors all over the city. Of course you can buy directly from sellers here at a good price, provided you’re up late enoug`h. The other reason to come is for the pho stands. The market begins late at night and continues well past dawn.

Tay Ho Weekend Market

So 4, Ngo 67, Ngach 67/12 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.weekendmarket.org Set up in March 2010 and organised by ASVELIS, a French-Vietnamese company specialised in the provision of services for sustainable livestock development, animal health and food safety, around 20 retailers sell traceable food and beverages every Saturday morning to hundreds of Vietnamese and foreign visitors. In addition to food and beverages, visitors can also find various non-food items such as handicrafts, books, clothes and jewellery.

pets ASVELIS Veterinary Hospital

59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0439 287666 www.warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam's ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

So 4, Ngo 67, Ngach 67/12 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5475 www.asvelis.com Founded by a French–Vietnamese couple who love taking care of companion animals, the ASVELIS Veterinary Hospital has developed from a small clinic into a hospital. In addition to dental care and basic laboratory test equipment, the pet hospital also offers boarding services, which are located in a pet-friendly environment in Soc Son, 10 minutes from Noi Bai airport.

Vine Cellar Door

City Zoo

THE WAREHOUSE

7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.

114A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 6660 7749 www.cityzoo.vn Hanoi pet lovers take notice. A real pet store selling all your pet needs exists. City Zoo caters to dogs, cats, birds and fish. Dog beds line the walls at this small shop which also offers a range of imported pet food, accessories like collars and pet toys. You can even pick up a hamster while you’re here. Delivery is available on pet food.

March 2013 Word | 105

Medical

fast service.

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

LISTINGS alternative medicine 108 cosmetics 108 counselling 108 cosmetic surgery 108 dental 108

medical 108 pharmacies 108 supplements 108 Vets 108 COLUMN: medical buff 109

alternative medicine Dr. Tran Huong 80 Ngo Nui Truc, Ba Dinh Tel: 0913 540907 www.drhuong.tk Dr. Tran Huong is well-known in Hanoi thanks to his long experience as both a practitioner of traditional Chinese and Western medicine. The clinic treats severe and chronic pain with a variety of drug-free methods, including acupuncture, acupressure, cupping and moxibustion.

Yakushi Center Lane 28, No 6, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1971 The centre offers such services as acupuncture, massage and traditional Chinese medicine. One of their specialties is the hot rock massage. Run by Dr. Thuy, a qualified practitioner, the Yakushi Center has a clean and relaxing environment and takes a holistic approach to health, designed to take care of both body and mind.

cosmetics Parkson Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da One of the newer malls in the city, Malaysian-owned Parkson offers international name brand cosmetics. For those days when you feel like treating yourself, do your shopping in a real mall atmosphere.

Trang Tien Plaza 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Stop here for everything from moisturizer to lipstick before heading upstairs to continue the shopping trip. Keep in mind, imported cosmetics don’t come cheap.

counselling International SOS Vietnam, Ltd. 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 www.internationalsos.com In addition to emergency healthcare, the clinic also offers consultations by in-house specialists, full counselling and psychotherapy services. Call to make an appointment.

Family Medical Practice Van Phuc Compound, 298 I Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh Tel: 3843 0748 (24 hours) www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice provides

106 | Word March 2013

psychotherapy and nutrition counselling services by in-house specialists. For more information or to book an appointment, please call the clinic.

cosmetic surgery New Life Clinic 6 Nguyen Thi Thap, Khu do thi moi Trung Hoa, Nhan Chinh Tel: 6261 6166 www.newlifevietnam.comA small clinic that offers cosmetic dental work, skin treatments and minor cosmetic surgery. The on site doctor, Ms. Ha, was trained at the University of Southern California.

dental Australian Dental Clinic 3 Nguyen Du, Dong Da Tel: 3944 5216 www.nhahoaucchau.com A clinic with modern facilities and internationally trained dentists. The prices here are more than competitive than the other international dental clinics in town.

Hong Ngoc Hospital 95 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh Tel: 3716 3972 The dental practice is located on the first floor of this well-organised health clinic. The waiting time is short and the doctors competent.

One Dental No 8, Lane 27, Xuan Dieu,Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6168 Providing quality dentistry in calm, relaxing environment it has an attentive and experienced mixed foreign and Vietnamese dental team who are there at all times to assist with any concerns.

Peace Dental Clinic 51a Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2286 www.peaceclinic.biz Established in 2001, it is run by an American dentist named Frederick. The clinic has a number of dentists trained in such places as Japan, Denmark and the Czech Republic – so the doctors are also fluent in many languages.

International SOS 1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 24-hour emergency service with pricey, but international quality emergency and routine dental services. If your wisdom tooth needs pulling in the middle of the night, or you break a tooth, there are competent doctors and

{ medical Buff }

pharmacies

One Dental Clinic No 8, Alley 27, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6168 www.onedentalvietnam.com Providing clients with the best in dentistry, the international standard One Dental also creates a calm environment where customers can enjoy their dental experience. Using the latest technology, the One Dental team is there all the time to assist customers with any questions they may have.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho District, Hanoi Tel: 3710 0555 www.westcoastinternational The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

medical Family Medical Practice 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3843 0748 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

FMP Pediatric Unit Van Phuc Compound, 298 D Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 5222 fmpkidshanoi@vietnammedicalpractice. com The Pediatric Unit of the Family Medical Practice Hanoi provides routine newborn and well-child checkups, updated immunizations and vaccinations, out-patient treatment and follow-up. FMP’s pediatric specialists provide professional consultancy from infancy to adolescence.

French Hospital 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da Tel: 3577 1100 The first international hospital created in Hanoi, and still viewed by some as the gold standard for medical treatment. Offering everything from standard medical and preventative care to surgical procedures. Full-service hospital that has both doctors and staff speaking good French and English.

International SOS 24-hour Clinic 1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

H Clinic 24T 1 Hoang Dao Thuy, Cau Giay Tel: 6251 2835 A clinic with a very large pharmacy that can fill pretty much any prescription you get in Hanoi. They also offer minor medical consultations.

** Pneumonia * *

Nha Thua Vinh Phuc 625 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh While it appears to be your basic street pharmacy, this small shop front stocks some hard-to-find medicine.

supplements Amevita Supplements Tel: 3759 2515 www.amevita.com.vn Sells high quality vitamins and supplements imported from the USA including multivitamins, probiotics, joint care, herbals, fitness and antiaging products. Free delivery in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Available online and at select retailers.

Ultimate Nutrition Hotline: 0917 295091 www.allsportvietnam.com Protein supplements, high quality vitamins, testosterone, muscle gain and fat loss supplements for those looking for professional sports nutrition to help their exercise or training regime. Call the hotline for free delivery to your home or office.

Vets Animal Care 16 ngo 424 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 2246 1946 / 0978 776099 www.phongkhamthuy.com Locally-run clinic specialising in treating cats and dogs as well as providing a range of pet-care accessories, from animal food to clothing, toys and much more.

Asian Veterinary & Livestock Services (ASVELIS) 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3178 2779 www.asvelis.com English, French and Vietnamesespeaking veterinarian providing a range of medical services as well as grooming, boarding and certification for pet import and export. Also sells a range of pets toys as well as other products.

Dr. Bao, Mobile Veterinarian Tel: 0903 223217, vetdoctorvn@yahoo. com On-call, English-speaking veterinarian who does the rounds in Hanoi. Well-respected, knowledgeable and, according to the feedback, very funny.

International Laboratory & Veterinary Services 31 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho District Tel: 3719 9994 www.vetsinvietnam.com A Vietnamese-owned small-animal veterinary clinic with English-speaking vets. Offers a range of healthcare and laboratory services as well as products for all animal needs. Products can be ordered online.

neumonia is an inflammation of the lungs caused by infection which can range in seriousness from mild to life-threatening. There can be different causes and types of pneumonia; bacteria, viruses, fungi or parasites can all be causes. Pneumonia is a complication of another condition, such as the flu. Antibiotics can treat most common forms of bacterial pneumonias although the best approach is to try to prevent infection in the first place.

Signs and Symptoms Pneumonia often mimics the flu, beginning with a cough and a fever, so you may not realise you have a more serious condition. Symptoms can vary depending on your age and general health. The signs and symptoms of pneumonia may include: Fever higher than 39C — — Lower-than-normal body temperature in older people — Cough — Shortness of breath — Sweating — Shaking chills — Chest pain that increases when you breathe in (pleurisy) — Headaches — Muscle pain — Fatigue

Types of Pneumonia There are different types of pneumonia for which the risk factors and treatment are different.

Community-acquired. This type of pneumonia is contracted from bacteria encountered in the course of your normal routine and can usually be treated without difficulty. The influenza virus can also cause pneumonia. Although most cases of viral pneumonia are mild and resolve in time with rest and fluids, viral pneumonia caused by influenza viruses may lead onto secondary bacterial pneumonia. Much less-common causes of community-acquired pneumonia include fungi, parasites and tuberculosis. Most cases of parasitic pneumonia occur in people who live or have travelled in developing countries. Health-care-acquired pneumonia. Severe, difficult-to-treat bacterial pneumonia can be a major problem in health care facilities — not only hospitals and nursing homes, but also kidney dialysis centers and outpatient infusion centers, where people regularly receive cancer chemotherapy and other intravenous medications. Aspiration pneumonia. Can occur if foreign matter is inhaled into the lungs, perhaps from vomiting while asleep or unconscious. Parkinson's disease and strokes can occasionally lead to aspiration pneumonia. Opportunistic viral, bacterial and fungal pneumonias. These types of pneumonia strike people with weakened immune systems (see Factors that Increase Risk below).

Factors that Increase Risk Age. Being 65 or older can increase the risk of pneumonia. Very young children, whose immune systems aren't fully developed, also are at increased risk.

Immune deficiency diseases. HIV/AIDS can increase risk, as can weakened immune systems, for example caused by chemotherapy or long-term use of immunosuppressant drugs. Chronic illnesses. Heart disease, emphysema and other lung diseases increase risk factors. Smoking. Smoking damages your body's natural defenses against the bacteria and viruses that cause pneumonia. Occupational exposure. The risk of developing some uncommon types of pneumonia may be increased if you work in agriculture, in construction or around certain industrial chemicals or animals.

Diagnosis Your doctor may first suspect pneumonia based on your medical history and a physical exam. Chest X-ray. X-rays can confirm the presence of pneumonia and determine the extent and location of the infection. Blood and sputum tests. You may have a blood test to measure your white cell count. A sample of your mucus or blood may help identify the particular microorganism that's causing your illness.

Treatment Antibiotics. The decision to treat pneumonia with an antibiotic isn't always straightforward. Initially, your doctor may prescribe a particular antibiotic based on trends in infection and antibiotic use in your area. If tests show that you need a different drug or your condition doesn't improve, you may switch to another antibiotic.

Antivirals. Your doctor may recommend antiviral medication for viral pneumonia. Antibiotics are not effective for treating viral pneumonia. Fever controllers. such as ibuprofen or acetaminophen may be used. (Children should not take aspirin). Cough medicine.

Prevention Vaccination lowers your risk of two leading offenders. Seasonal flu shot. The influenza virus can be a direct cause of viral pneumonia. Bacterial pneumonia is also a common complication of the flu. A yearly flu shot provides significant protection either way. Pneumonia vaccine. Physicians recommend a one-time vaccine against Streptococcus pneumoniae bacteria (pneumococcus) for everyone older than age 65, as well as for people of any age residing in nursing homes and long-term care facilities. In addition, the vaccine is recommended for anyone at high risk of pneumonia. Childhood vaccines. Children should receive the seasonal flu vaccine every year. Doctors also recommend a different pneumonia vaccine (conjugate vaccine), for all children younger than age 2 and for children ages 2 to 5 years who are at particular risk of pneumococcal disease (immune system deficiency, cancer, cardiovascular disease or sickle cell anemia). Children who attend a group day care center should also get the vaccine. Dr WB McNaull MB ChB MPhil (Cambridge) DTM&H FRSTM (London) is the medical director of FMP, 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh

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Tiêng viêt

Cô Nhan

Những Gương Mặt Hà Nội

Là con gái một họa sỹ, giờ ở tuổi 80, cô Nhạn vẫn là một giáo viên tiếng Việt và một ngôi sao. Viết bởi Kaitlin Rees. Ảnh bởi Aaron Joel Santos Tôi đã nghe tiếng cô Nhạn từ trước khi tôi gặp cô. “Cẩn thận cụng đầu nhé,” là câu nói đầu tiên của cô với tôi từ tầng hai ngôi nhà khi thấy tôi đang lên gác. Nhà của cô, cũng là lớp học của tôi, là một không gian ấm cúng hai tầng ở sâu trong một ngõ nhỏ trên phố Hàng Gà và bạn cần khom lưng lại để lên được tầng hai. Ngày hôm đó, và cũng như nhiều ngày tiếp theo sau đó, khi tôi đến, cô Nhạn đang đọc sách ở bàn của cô với một đống chỉ bên cạnh. Tôi không nhớ cô mặc gì nhưng chắc chắn nó đã làm tôi ngưỡng mộ, có lẽ là những lớp áo có in hình hoa màu tím sẫm, một chiếc áo khoác nhung đen, một chiếc khăn đội đầu được làm thủ công, và móng tay màu đỏ tươi. Đối với tôi,thật khó để có thể không yêu quý cô, một người có thể nhìn bạn và làm bạn mỉm cười. Cô Nhạn đã 80 tuổi nhưng không có thứ gì trong phong thái của cô thể hiện là cô đã ở tuổi đó. Mặc dù phải sống qua những giai đoạn tồi tệ nhất của Việt Nam và chứng kiến những gam màu khắc nghiệt của thời kỳ hậu chiến, cô Nhạn vẫn luôn vui vẻ. “Nếu cô bắt đầu lo lắng về cuộc đời, về quá khứ, cô sẽ mãi mãi lo âu.”

Sức Sống

“Mặc dù phải sống qua những giai đoạn tồi tệ nhất của Việt Nam và chứng kiến những gam màu khắc nghiệt của thời kỳ hậu chiến, cô Nhạn vẫn luôn vui vẻ” 108 | Word March 2013

Những việc cô làm thay vì ngồi và lo lắng, và có lẽ cũng vì thế mà cô trông rất trẻ, có thể viết được hết cuốn tạp chí nầy. Để tóm tắt: một tuần ba ngày cô dạy tiếng Anh, bốn ngày cô dạy tiếng Việt, và một ngày cô dạy tiếng Pháp. Thứ Hai hàng tuần cô đi bơi (vì họ thay nước bể vào các ngày

Chủ Nhật). Sáng thứ Ba và thứ Năm cô đi khiêu vũ ở câu lạc bộ gần đó, bạn nhảy của cô là một người đàn ông trẻ. Cô tự khâu quần áo cho mình và các cháu của mình, cô đọc sách, chơi đàn piano, và đang viết một cuốn tự truyện. Cuộc sống hoạt bát là một trong những thứ cô Nhạn đã quen. Là chị cả trong gia đình có 12 anh chị em, gánh nặng của những việc nấu nướng, dọn dẹp, khâu vá, an ủi và lo lắng việc học hành cho sáu em gái và năm em trai đều đổ dồn vào vai cô. Mặc dù gia đình đông đúc, cô Nhạn vẫn nghĩ rằng tuổi thơ của cô khá may mắn. “Bố tôi là một người rất kỳ lạ, rất đặc biệt,” cô nhớ lại. Là một họa sỹ, ông đã chuyển cả gia đình, gồm cả các bà vợ của ông, tới sống ở núi Ba Vì, một nơi cô lập với thế giới bên ngoài trong vòng ba năm vào năm 1945. Khi gia đình cô trở lại Hà Nội và công việc kinh doanh đồ gỗ của bố cô phát đạt, cô Nhạn sống trong một cuộc sống xa xỉ trong một thời gian dài. Bây giờ cô Nhạn có gia đình trên khắp thế giới: ở Moscow, Paris, Úc, và Mỹ; họ là những nhà phiên dịch, họa sỹ, và nghệ sỹ dương cầm. Nhưng cùng với sáu anh chị em khác của mình, cô vẫn là một “người Hà Nội chính hiệu”. Vì thế, cô luôn xuất hiện như một ngôi sao khi bước xuống phố ở nơi cô ở. Từ một quán phở quen thuộc của cô trên phố Hàng Hòm, ví dụ như vậy, tôi hỏi cô đã gặp bao nhiêu người cô biết. “Làm sao mà cô đếm được. Có lẽ cô đặc biệt vì cô đã sống ở đây rất lâu rồi. Cô biết hết mọi người ở đây. Nếu ai cần và cô giúp được gì thì cô giúp ngay.”

Những kết nối mãnh liệt

Cũng vì muốn giúp đỡ người khác, cô Nhạn bắt đầu dạy tiếng Việt vào những năm 1990 và làm phiên dich trong Thông Tấn Xã Việt Nam. “Có rất nhiều người nước ngoài làm việc ở đó và cô biết họ cần học tiếng Việt” . Cô Nhạn luôn nói rằng cô không chỉ dạy tiếng Việt. Theo cô, một người không thể học học được một ngoại ngữ mà không học về văn hóa và cách tư duy của người nước đó. Cùng với các bài dạy tiếng của mình, cô Nhạn cũng dạy cả nấu ăn lồng ghép những chi tiết lịch sử và câu chuyện của cuộc đời cô. “Bây giờ cô tiếp tục dạy cho vui thôi. Nếu cô không giao tiếp, cuộc sống sẽ thật nhàm chán.” Cũng chính nhờ việc này mà cô Nhạn đã giúp được vô số học sinh vượt qua được bức tường khó khăn của tiếng Việt mà nhiều người khi mới bắt đầu học đã gặp phải. Một phương pháp cô thường áp dụng là giải nghĩa những câu thành ngữ xuất hiện trong bài học. Một trong những câu như vậy đã xuất hiện trong khi tôi hỏi cô về những phong tục của những ngày lễ đang đến gần. Tôi hỏi: “Ăn Tết người Việt Nam thường làm gì?” Cô Nhạn: “Mua dây buộc mình” Trong câu trả lời của mình, cô Nhạn vừa giải thích cho tôi từ “dây” và “buộc”, cô cũng kể nhiều chuyện về cuộc đời mình và mối quan hệ với môi trường xung quanh. Sau khi giải thích về những nghĩa vụ bắt buộc và những điều mê tín trong cuộc sống thường nhật ở Việt Nam, cô nói thêm, “nhưng cô không thích mua dây, nên cô không làm theo.”

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Ho Chi Minh City mika the gibbon / the director

hen scaffolding company owner Bob Taylor first met Mika, a yellow-cheeked gibbon, she was holed up in a tiny cage in a small and dingy pet shop in Ho Chi Minh City. Taken at a young age from the wild, years of confinement had had devastating physical effects. With little muscle to support movement, her legs were deformed and she was unable to walk, only being able shuffle about on her behind. Having already transformed part of his home in Vung Tau into a primate care centre, Bob took her out the shop and into his own care. It was the start of a long and unique relationship. After a short time Mika began to make progress. Under Bob’s personal care she learnt to walk, swing and climb. Home to 23 primates, including three species of macaque and three other yellow-cheeked gibbons, life in the centre was good for Mika and she was beginning to thrive. But then Bob noticed another problem. Mika had developed cataracts and was starting to lose her sight. He was devastated. “It broke my heart,” he recalls. “So I ended up putting ropes in her cage so she could move around.” It was then that he had the idea. “With a will and a way you can do anything,” he continues. “I had my cataracts taken out. So, I contacted people around the world and asked ‘can we do it for Mika’? But everyone I spoke to said no, it was impossible.” The problem with such an operation, says Marina Kenyon of the Endangered Asian Species Trust (EAST), was the risk of infection. “Many veterinarians said it was far too dangerous — if Mika rubbed her eyes it would cause serious problems.” Established by Monkey World UK to support conservation work in Southeast Asia, while the role of EAST in what was to follow proved vital, it was local surgeons in Vietnam who were able to provide the breakthough. “Having spoken to doctors in America and all over the world, we eventually contacted some Vietnamese surgeons in Ho Chi Minh City,” continues Bob. “‘Could they do the operation?’ They told me they had never done it before but they said they could try.” Adds Marina: “The final decision to proceed was based on the fact that Mika would lose all vision soon without the surgery — she really had nothing to lose. It was the Vietnamese that came through in the end.”

Local Expertise, Foreign Supervision The Community Eye Department in Ho Chi Minh City performed the surgery; the team was headed up by Doctors Tien Phi Duy and

110 | Word March 2013

Tran Huy Hoang. However, in the run up to the operation, Bob and his team had to overcome a range of difficulties. With so many physical issues, there was huge concern about Mika’s general health. So she underwent a series of tests to rule out diabetes and any other disease that may have negative connotations for her wellbeing. Fortunately, for once she came out with a clean bill of health. Then there was the reoccurring problem of no previous cataract removal operation on a primate — the surgeons and everyone involved were quite literally in the dark. And operating on a primate rather than a human being meant the purchase of special drugs and equipment. While EAST provided the anaesthesia equipment, Bob eventually sourced all the other supplies in the UK. All set and with just two days to go before the operation, there was one final hiccup. Worried about the spread of disease, the hospital assigned for the operation pulled out. So, after much bargaining and discussion, the procedure was moved to a local training centre and under the supervision of specialists from Monkey World UK and EAST, Doctors Tien Phi Duy and Tran Huy Hoang took Mika into the operating theatre. The procedure was a success. Seeing Mika every few days during her rehabilitation, Marina says that there was almost an instant difference. “After just a few days she’d reach out to objects — she could clearly see so much better”. But post-operation, there remained concerns. How could they stop Mika from rubbing her eyes. After much debate, pain relief was administrated and eye drops were given to avoid infection and inflammation — due to the nature of Mika’s surgery it was vital that her eyes did not cause discomfort; the measures taken achieved their goal. According to Bob, Mika now has 99 percent vision. There have been other accomplishments, too. Constantly monitored throughout her recovery, to the delight of Marina and her team Mika is now able to feed herself and maintain a social position within her group. It was also discovered that the gibbon eye is very similar to that of an infant human. Therefore, this surgery can be easily performed elsewhere, meaning that a positive step in animal welfare and medicine in Vietnam is now being recognised and respected by the world. Naturally, Bob is overjoyed. “Mika has adapted to life with sight perfectly,” he smiles. “The Americans said no. So did everyone else. In the end it was the Vietnamese who came through, against the odds.”

INSIDER

Mika the Marvel Against the odds, Mika the gibbon was the first primate in the world to have eye surgery. She now lives in Vung Tau. Here’s her story. Words by Tara Oldfield. Photo by Nick Ross

March 2013 Word | 111

The Many Faces of Saigon

The Director Stephen Bradley has tackled a number of movie projects during his time, but none has quite gripped him like the movie about Christina Noble. Last month he was in Saigon shooting the story of one woman’s struggle to make a difference when he caught up with Derek Milroy. Photo by Francis Xavier

tephen Bradley admitted he didn’t cut it as an actor early on. Instead of letting it get him down it only released an inner desire to succeed. So he started producing and finally found his goal in life — to direct. The talented Irishman’s first feature Sweety Barrett (1998) earned rave reviews, starring Brendan Gleeson in the title role, with Cillian Murphy making his screen debut. Fast forward to 2013 and he is in Saigon on a six-week shoot with Noble — the story of Christina Noble, a remarkable woman who has touched the lives of millions of children and adults alike through her foundation, which helps street kids have a real chance at life. Stephen’s wife Deirdre O’Kane, a famed comedienne and actress, stars in the lead as the Irish ‘Mother Theresa with balls’. The movie was actually his better half’s brainwave. “Deirdre had the idea to do the movie,” says Stephen. “She did some charity comedy gigs for the Christina Noble Children’s Foundation (CNCF). She had also read her books and I had been to the gigs Deirdre did some standup at. They were called The Toothfairy Ball in Dublin. I met Christina at those gigs and learned a little about her story, although I hadn’t read the books. I did that later when we became hooked on the idea. We decided we were going to do the movie in 2008. Five years from the idea to production is short in the feature industry.”

From Dream to Reality In case you have been living on the moon in your time in Vietnam, you may not know that Noble formed the CNCF from scratch after arriving in Saigon with 10 dollars to

112 | Word March 2013

her name. She had a dream in 1971 when she lived in London, of Vietnamese street children crying out, which was to recur in her mind for almost two decades before she finally made it to the country in 1989. One scene in the movie features O’Kane singing in a club to expatriates, as she tries to highlight the plight of the starving homeless children of Vietnam. Now there are 700,000 children in Vietnam and Mongolia being taken care of thanks to one woman. She has built a foundation that has committees in Australia, France, Germany, England, Vietnam, Ireland and the US. Taking the best part of two years to get to know Noble, Stephen is now a close friend and has been amazed at how she has opened up to him and let him see the woman behind the myth. In the flesh, he’s realised, she is almost too good to be true. “The decision to make the movie was easy in the sense that Christina is such a fascinating character,” says Stephen. “Most people only know about her ‘good deeds’, although she would hate you to say that. She just sees it as something she wants to do, so she does it. “What fascinated me was how funny and musical she is. Christina always has hope and that is why her story is so interesting. She is so courageous and if you tie in the humour and music, it allows you to have the rollercoaster. If she wasn’t that person I wouldn’t have been interested. The thing about Christina’s story is you don’t stop admiring that story; you don’t stop loving that story and don’t stop getting a buzz out of other people being affected by it.” He adds: “We were recently in London at the gallery opening that her daughter had organized with works of a Vietnamese artist for the CNCF. She did five minutes

of standup comedy and it was great. She was also given the President’s Medal of Friendship from the Vietnamese President in London a few years back. I went to that, it was very formal and diplomatic, but she just got up and sung a song and everyone relaxed. She takes all situations into a good place.”

The Irish of Asia But why did Noble, now in her 60s, instantly connect with the Vietnamese people? She had the dream maybe due to the coverage and feelings of injustice of the American War, which broke hearts around the world. At the time, many cried for the people of Vietnam. Bradley believes that the reason Noble fit in so well and became one with this country is because the Vietnamese are the Irish of Southeast Asia. “My thoughts on Vietnam are strangely that the people in Vietnam are similar to people from Ireland,” Bradley explains. “They have a very similar sense of humour behind the façade, a lot of madness and chaos, and that’s very Irish. That is why Christina connected with them, they have great spirit. “She has a phrase, ‘A Vietnamese gutter is the same as an Irish gutter’. I think she has always had a real sense of hope and destiny. I think that’s why it works for her in Vietnam — because they believe in that kind of pre-destined idea. She says that ‘it only takes one person’. When she was homeless it would have only taken one kind soul to take her in, take care of her and take her off the streets.” For more information on the Christina Noble Children’s Foundation go to cncf.org

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The Final Say are you saussure? / the last call

Are You Saussure? Adverts for ‘special dumplings’ without the special; ecotourism resorts without the eco — Douglas Pyper is starting to wonder if anything means what it says, or says what it means.

“P

enis”, “Fartshion”, “Nefertiti” — no I don’t have Tourettes, this is just a list of my favourite shops. When I need a new jacket, I pop out to “Penis”; if I’m looking for something special then it’s got to be “Fartshion” or I might as well not bother. When I see “Fanny”, I think ice-cream and when I see “Pussy”, I think coffee. Hanoi’s taught me to think this way. Signs don’t mean anything. At least, they don’t mean anything out of context. Ferdinand de Saussure preached that signs only have relevance as part of a culture of signs. The sign is arbitrary, but it has a socially agreed significance. Hence the eternal problem of how to put a sign on dangerous materials designed to be read by a completely different future society? For proof of this, we don’t need to wait to see the perplexed faces of future peoples as they stare at a 20th Century stop sign, you just need to come to Hanoi. Here is a baffling arrangement of signifier and signified that can’t be understood without knowledge of the culture that made the signs. Some signs are fairly easy to decipher. A B52 crashing to the ground or hand-drawn figures of scientists, students, farmers and engineers staring at a common point on the horizon can be understood with only rudimentary knowledge of history and politics. You don’t even have to read the text

to know exactly what’s being said. Yet not all signs are this clear-cut. Take a common slogan like Hanoi: Xanh, Sach, Dep. Does this sign express that Hanoi is a green, clean, beautiful city? Does it mean that the city aspires to be green, clean and beautiful, giving a constant reminder to its citizens to be vigilant in pursuit of this goal? Or is someone trying to convince us that the city is green, clean and beautiful through repetition, and in spite of the medieval garbage disposal system that we experience every day? Another vague case is Hanoi: Thanh Pho vi Hoa Binh. Isn’t it ironic that a city so tied in international consciousness to war calls itself the City for Peace?

Reading Between the Lines You may have noticed that the city of Hanoi is full of areas marked Khu Van Hoa. To a young language learner looking to immerse themselves in the culture of Vietnam, this is like fire to a moth. Literally “culture area”, you probably think you’re going to find a maze of galleries, museums, art spaces and dance studios. At least, you might hope to find some kind of traditional trade, like the making of conical hats. You’d be wrong. Khu Van Hoa is actually closer to something like “cultured area”, but again that sign still means nothing until someone has told you what the society has agreed the sign to mean. This sign signifies that this area is home to a high enough

percentage of the right kind of people; they don’t have criminal records, their children aren’t prostitutes and they turn up to community meetings. If you’re looking for pretty pictures then you’ll have to go look somewhere else. Everywhere linguistics and expression go, the same inconsistencies of signifier and signified follow. When reading Vietnam News, Nguoi Lao Dong, Tuoi Tre or Word Hanoi, you will stumble upon passages designed to obscure their content, passages that appear to have no tangible information, and passages that hint at undefined ill deeds. Apart from wondering why you bothered to learn any Vietnamese, you’ll also be trying to work out what hasn’t been said — or why what has been said has been said — or the difference between what has been said and what is meant. In order work it all out, you need to know the set of conventions and codes currently being used to give meaning. That requires awareness of the history of both what has been said and what it signified to a whole raft of different stratas of society. Words are not immutable labels attached to a mutually understood reality. Rather they are representations of a society’s mode of signifying; and not all societies express by the same rules. If you don’t read between the lines, it’s going to go over your head.

“Hanoi […] is a baffling arrangement of signifier and signified that can’t be understood without knowledge of the culture that made the signs” 114 | Word March 2013

March 2013 Word | 115

the LAST CALL

A love of architectural details and the never fading popularity of a well-decanted glass of wine has lured Jonas Hjerpe from Halong Bay to West Lake to step in as general manager of 88 Lounge. A bar and wine lounge, this new venue adds a welcome dimension to nightlife in Xuan Dieu. Photo by Francis Roux

My vision for our venue is... to create an environment

that is welcoming, friendly and affordable.

Our success depends on... our ability to respect our concept and stay competitive.

I relax and unwind when... I am not working.

I want to provide Hanoians with... something

new, something exciting, a place that will continuously surprise them.

My favourite aspect of the lounge is... the freedom and flexibility it allows when operating.

West Lake is the perfect location for this venture because... it is quickly developing into a food and beverage haven. New restaurants and bars are frequently opening. More and more people will start to be drawn to this neighbourhood.

I got on board this project because... the

architects had their mind set on creating something that was different from what is found in this city today.

Comfortâ&#x20AC;Ś all comes down to

what you see, what you hear, what you feel, eat and drink,

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and the people you surround yourself with.

88 is unique because... of its design. The detail (and I might add headaches) that went into creating the place is unbelievable.

Wine experience to me is... all about learning and discovering.

The biggest challenge of opening up has been... patience.

Moving from Halong Bay to Hanoi, the biggest adjustment has been... the rhythm and lifestyle of the city.

Hanoi's nightlife is missing... a place where people of all cultures and nationalities can go. In the short time that I have been in this city I have yet to discover a venue that has managed to create a good balance between the locals and the foreigners.

I will stay in Vietnam until... I feel it's time to move on. But I am happy here at the moment so it might be while.

Before opening 88 I had never... lost so much weight in

such a short period of time.

88 Lounge is at 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho.