The Word Ha Noi January 2012

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HANOI EDITION JANUARY 2012

RED RIVER

DIARIES NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

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EDITORIAL KAITLIN REES

IAN PAYNTON

Managing Editor ian@wordhanoi.com

Staff Writer kaitlin@wordhanoi.com

DAVID STOUT

PAOLO MALING

Deputy Editor david.stout@wordhanoi.com

Art Director paolo@wordhcmc.com

AARON JOEL SANTOS

NGUYEN TAN LOC

Photo Editor aaron@wordhanoi.com

Layout Designer loc@wordhcmc.com

DOMINIC BLEWETT

PHI NGUYEN THUY LINH Intern linh@wordhanoi.com

Staff Photographer dominic@wordhanoi.com

NICK ROSS

HOA LE

Chief Editor & Deputy Director nick@wordhanoi.com

Staff Writer hoale@wordhanoi.com

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LE DANG PHUONG TRANG

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2 | The Word January 2012

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

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Contents

wordhanoi.com

JANUARY 2012

034

058

050

036

004 l The Prelude

Dengue Fever turns ten

031 TET

008 l Just In

014 l The Buzz

024 l Overscene INSIDER 016 l Ourman

TALK

For those left in the dark this holiday

036 RED

RIVER DIARIES

Following the Song Hong from Lao Cai to Xuan Thuy

050 DESTINATION

020 l In the Papers 022 l Calendar

066 l Destination Zero

028 Q&A

007 l The Big Five

012 l The Exhibitionist

COLUMNS

FEATURES

THE TALK

The other Hong Kong

054 ETHNICALLY

URBAN

The journey of minority prints

057 VEGGIES

A PLENTY

For those who thought Hanoi was all about meat

I hate pub punch ups

034 l Many Faces The Classic Car Collector

058 l Mystery Diner Back to the old school with Com Viet

059 l Street Snacker

102

073 l For The Record 080 l Medical Buff 081 l Music Buff 082 l Cinema Buff 083 l Book Buff

CITY GUIDE TIENG VIET HO CHI MINH CITY 094 l Crosstown Traffic Saigon traffic time lapsed

Trivia Buff Answers See p104 for the original puzzle 1) Manager of the Spice Girls 2) Buddhism 3) Dame Kiri Te Kanawa 4) Japan 5) Penny Junor 6) Moonlight Shadow 7) Acoustics 8) Cornwall 9) Guinea Pigs 10) The Corrs 11) Mushroom 12) Chelsea 13) Shoes 14) George W Bush 15) Backstreet Boys 16) Advance Australia Fair 17) A Gimlet 18) Nottingham 19) Hamm 20) I Feel For You

FINAL SAY 102 l Life in the Bus Lane

Banh baos on bikes January 2012 The Word | 3

The Prelude CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HANOI EDITION JANUARY 2012

O

n this month’s cover is Nguyen Dan Duoc. For 20 years he has lived on the Red River in a houseboat he made by hand on the small island that runs under Long Bien Bridge.

Just as the Red River cuts through northern Vietnam, forging valleys and plains into the earth, similar marks have been left on the people the river supports. Geology after all, is a study of pressure and time. A life of attrition, hunger and poverty have carved the physical features into Duoc’s face.

For those of us at Word Ha Noi, it’s fitting that Duoc should grace the cover as we launch a new logo and give our publication a makeover. His long story of turmoil — which Word documented in The Many Faces of Hanoi (Markets, December 2010) — and the incredible lives that we have been lucky enough to profile have come to define this publication. If Ho Chi Minh City is all about places, then Hanoi is all about people. With that in mind, we consider ourselves lucky to work in a city where there are many characters to meet and stories to tell.

As always, but even more so now, please tell us what you think about the new-look publication by emailing editor@wordhanoi.com. Wishing you all a great New Year and the best for the 12 months ahead.

RED RIVER

DIARIES NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo: Aaron Joel Santos Design: DH Advertising

PHORRARI (Ong Audi Ba Bently, Nov. 2011)

December 2011 Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực The City in Your Hands

w .w o w

w

Nhà Xuất Bản Lao Lao Động

A well written article and very interesting topic. Many have been enjoying the fruits of their labour in the west and as a result, display these same fruits in various ways, such as a driving a flash car. Is it wrong for wealthy Vietnamese to do the same? I was recently sitting having a bowl of pho which cost VND20,000, about a dollar. Whilst sitting there a young Vietnamese guy pulled up in a red Ferrari to eat the same bowl of pho. He dirtied his trousers and shoes getting out of his flash car, his beautiful girlfriend struggled getting out of the car due to the height of her heels, and I sat there thinking to myself, not so much about the car, but the choice of eating venue considering the obvious wealth. — Marty 4 | The Word January 2012

rd Ҩ ha 6R Q 3 no QJ K i.c 1 ҭP om Jӳ

INBOX

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL US AT nick@wordhanoi.com or ian@wordhanoi.com

SIGHT FOR SORE EYES Trying to read that Pacman typeface on the cover story of the last issue hurt my eyes.

I couldn’t even read some of the headlines. Other than that, another good edition. Keep up the good work. — PC

Sunday Brunch

a chocolate heaven.

The Talk

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / EXHIBITIONIST / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE

Take Responsibility Without a safety net in place, living in Vietnam can be precarious. Make 2012 your most responsible year yet

F

igures vary dramatically, but according to the least conservative estimates, more than 30,000 people die each year on Vietnam's roads.

It's a huge figure and difficult to verify, but what is clear is that almost every family in this country has either lost someone to the roads or had a least one member seriously injured. One of this publication’s staff had a very lucky escape last month and was grateful to walk away with no more than scrapes and stitches to the head.

It could be fair to say that many living here rely too much on providence.

Motorbike helmets are mostly worn because failure to do so will mean a fine, and like the folly of youth, countless people think that somehow they are invincible when tackling the roads in this country. We’re not.

Nine Lives Nine is a lucky number in Vietnam but in a flash, nine lives can quickly become eight. When that truck pulled out onto the road in Yen Bai without looking during the first leg of the Red River trip for this month’s cover story, disaster was inevitable. Somehow the vehicle was avoided and our team member skidded out of the lorry’s line and hit the tarmac, head first. The helmet saved his life and fortunately help was at hand. Our photographer was on the motorbike behind and the people living on the street nearby quickly helped with bandaging up the wound. It was yet another lucky break. If the accident had happened even deeper into the countryside, nine lives could have become seven. Or zero.

Another problem arose shortly after the accident. When the said casualty got to Hanoi for a second check up and X-rays, all medical bills had to be paid for in cash.

6 | The Word January 2012

By the terms of his insurance, emergency evacuation would have been covered.

But with only the basic cover in place, everything had to be paid for. Fortunately the fees were small. If the accident had been more serious, the costs could have been extortionate.

Fortune Favours…

The purpose of this piece is not to sell insurance. It's about responsibility. There is no national health service in Vietnam, so the safety net for anyone who falls through the cracks is non-existent. Too many of us with the means to keep ourselves covered forget this. And driving without a motorbike license can, in many cases, mean that insurance is void.

Swedish long-term Vietnam resident Nicklas Carlsson has first-hand experience of insurance policies saving his life. What was initially thought to be a kidney disease in 2007 turned out to be a rare blood disorder, HUS. Affecting only one in a million people, the mortality rate for non-treatment is 96 percent.

Nicklas was fortunate. He was quickly evacuated to Bumrungrad Hospital in Bangkok and through a process of trial, error and extensive testing, his doctor diagnosed him. Without the insurance paying for both treatment and evacuation, he would have almost certainly died. In the four years since he first became ill, his medical costs have totaled more than US$1 million.

Even more fortunate for Nicklas was the nature of the insurance policy that he first took out in 2005 with Aetna.

When he became ill he was covered for chronic diseases, which meant that all ongoing treatment for HUS was paid for — Soliris, the drug used to treat HUS, is the most expensive in the world at VND10 billion a year. The policy he used

"There is no national health service in Vietnam, so the safety net for anyone who falls through the cracks is non-existent" also had a renewal guarantee, which meant the insurance company couldn’t just turn him out onto the streets, despite the costs to themselves. In addition it had a guaranteed premium — insurance companies often try to increase the premium after a claimant has had an accident or an illness. And he had a high yearly insurance limit for medical fees. If it had have been VND1 billion or VND2 billion, he may have been struck with a huge bill.

So if your life matters to you, and your family back at home, make the year 2012 a responsible one — especially in a country where just getting from A to B can put you at more risk than you may anticipate.

THE

1

BIG

Vietnam’s biggest holiday of the year is upon us again. Expect clogged roads in the lead up, lots of kumquat trees and perhaps a llittle bit of a bonus. If you’re planning on travelling during pl the holidays, it might be wise to th book your respective tickets now bo — assuming hotel and airlines still have open spots. However, if sti you’re planning on staying, stock yo up on goods because Hanoi is known for getting a little empty kn during this time. Chuc mung nam du moi, and lots of luck from Word in mo the Year of the Dragon. th Turn to page 31 for our Tet Talk holiday guide ho

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH TH

2

TET

TOUR THE NORTH

It’s January, which can only mean one thing: it’s time for the annual Freewheelin’ Tet Tour — a 10-day, more-than-800km motorcycle trip through the mountains and ethnic minority areas of north Vietnam. The trip will start in Hanoi and stop over in La Vie Vu Linh in Yen Bai before heading to to Lao Cai, Son La and Co Luong, giving riders a glimpse of life among Tay, Red Dao and Hmong communities. The cost, which is VND19.7 million includes accommodation, bikes and petrol, helmets, waterproofs and saddle bags, all authorization tickets and food — not to mention the wagon following the tour for the families that join it on the way. If you want to get away from the city this Tet but are staying in Vietnam, perhaps a bit of adventure wouldn’t go amiss.

For more information contact info@freewheelin-tours.com or pop into 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem.

Alternatively call 3926 2743

3

4

NEW VIET AIRLINE RLINE

HOG WILD

For those who enjoy admiring motorbikes other than Honda Waves, Cubs and Dreams, get yourselves down to the American Club on Jan. 6 for a show organized by Harley Owners Group Hanoi. As the name suggests, it will be the legendary Harley Davidson that will take the main stage — alongside DJs, beat boxers, cocktail buffets and art performances — to celebrate the one-year anniversary of the Hanoi-based clan.

The American Club — 19/21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem.

Contact ucomvn@gmail.com for more information

5

After months of speculation, low-cost carrier VietJetAir finally started domestic d flights in Vietnam last month. With four daily flights between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, VietJet comes into the market as the fourth airline in Vietnam. It will be the first private carrier in this country to fly domestic and international routes — flights to Danang will commence in a few months and routes between Vietnam and the rest of Asia will be launched in the next year. According to the airline, overseas destinations soon to be available will include Macau, Singapore, Hong Kong and various locations in Japan, China and South Korea, and it strives to provide Vietnamese and foreign residents with flexibly priced and affordable air tickets, thus “stimulating the development of business, travel, and investment in the country”.

As well as the main booking office in Hanoi (HD Bank, 32 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem) 200 agencies around the country sell VietJetAir tickets and flights can be booked online at www.vietjetair.com. Flights start at VND900,000 for a one-way trip between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City

SHOPPING GOES EAST

While we can’t guarantee its shops will adhere to the January Sales traditions of the west, Hanoi’s largest and newest shopping and entertainment plaza, the Savico Mega Mall, will spend its first full month with its doors open this January. Vietnam’s 17th Big C has already bagged the basement and 85 percent of the 200 retail units have been claimed, with the project managers hoping that this 60,000sqm hive will become adopted as a ‘new town centre’ among locals. The suburban shopping centre, over the Red River in Long Bien, is a gentle reminder that business centres in Hanoi are sprawling east just as quickly as they are heading west.

Savico Mega Mall — No.7-9 Nguyen Van Linh, Gia Thuy, Long Bien

January 2012 The Word | 7

Just In

TOP TWEETS

MILLENNIUM The newest addition to Bao Khanh Lane is a corker. Clean and fresh with a fine-dining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking runs over two floors and has a welcomed and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter. If you try anywhere new this New Year, try the food and vibe here — as well as the new Stop Café and bakery down stairs.

Millenium — 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Call 0904 134490

FISHEGGTREE @WordVietnam Good piece. Only 1 quibble. @ UNESCOheritagestatus is only as 'official' as WE make it.

And it does NOT guarantee preservation.

21 hours ago CAMTHUTRAN Do it for the sheer fun if not your love life @WordVietnam #Hanoi is looking for 10 singletons to play cupid with.

Email ian@wordhanoi.com 20 Dec

FASHION AND FOOD Boasting brands straight from Paris and Italy, Luala, the highfashion men and women’s boutique, has opened a café downstairs managed by the Press Club. So if you have any Christmas money left after throwing down for a new Missoni sweater this January, you’ll be pleased to know you can head downstairs to enjoy lunch on the sidewalk at the café in this high-end part of town.

Luala, 61 Ly Thai To in Hoan Kiem. See www.luala.vn for more info

HANOIGRAPEVINE @WordVietnam @ PechaKuchaHanoi Thanks for a 2nd great evening! Maybe mercilessly starting right on time could also encourage punctuality. :-) 9 Dec CHRISFHARVEY @WordVietnam Love the tweets.

Sending so many at once is overwhelming though. You might consider hootsuite.com to spread them out.

9 Dec HAININH @WordVietnam Who's Bobby Chinn?

9 Dec OURMAN Thanks @wordvietnam — @tabithacarvan @ doortomykitchen@hanoi_ink Just edited my blog roll — bloggers are a dying breed. Numbers way down.

7 Dec HANOI_INK thanks @WordVietnam for all the love in 2011! bit.ly/sOGt8Z (in such great company too @tabithacarvan @ourman@ doortomykitchen) 7 Dec

STEAKHOUSE OPENS Combining traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors, El Gaucho opened its doors on Xuan Dieu in December.

Already with two venues in Saigon — one near the Opera House and the other in Saigon South — the essence of this popular chain is off the grill. Yes, it’s mainly about top grade imported beef but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add this to a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to Xuan Dieu this evening.

El Gaucho — 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel 3718 6991. Visit elgaucho.com.vn for more info

8 | The Word January 2012

AARONJOELSANTOS Saw editor @WordVietnam almost get killed yesterday.

Lorry pulled onto road w/o warning, knocking him off his bike at full speed. #vietnam 7 Dec THECARTFOOD Nice mention in @WordVietnam for The Cart Nghi Tamyfrog. com/hsq1iip Love their newlook website: wordhanoi.com #hanoi 5 Dec

the talk

January 2012 The Word | 9

WIRED ONLINE MAGAZINES The iPad tends to be the gadget of choice when it comes to reading online magazines in a glossy, digital, visually enticing format. But there are now a number of single and cross-platform applications that provide the same functions for PCs, Macs, Android phones and more.

THE NEW BOOM Newcomer Boombox Lounge showcases a two story ‘Chill Lounge’ not too far from the Opera House and is ideal for drinks against a bright backdrop. Its large bar serves up test tube shooters and the Party Animal Bucket offering a range of of shots. Of course, it’s a café/restaurant too and be sure to check out the owner’s collection of boom boxes next to the DJ Booth. Live music on Wednesdays and a DJ at the weekend.

The Boombox Lounge is located at 1 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem.

Check them out on Facebook @ The Boom Box Lounge

One of the best is Zinio.

Including titles from the likes of GQ, Hello, Cosmopolitan, Newsweek, The Economist, FHM and much more, purchase a magazine or a subscription on your computer, and you can also view the same publication on your smart phone. Issuu offers the same service and most of the publications found here are free. However, while the online Issuu website is well-designed and user friendly, the smartphone application has yet to achieve full functionality — you can’t zoom and you can only read articles as text files. There is also the recently launched Android app, Google currents, and for Apple users, of course, Flipboard, which is now available on the iPhone.

Other smartphone options are individual applications for news agencies and magazines.

Among the best are The Guardian, Time Magazine, The Economist, AP and CNN. At present, the tablet versions of most of these apps are more magazine-like, but having a whole newspaper on your phone, such as The Guardian, which automatically updates each time you open the app, is pretty useful.

FIT FOR A KING After shutting the doors at its former location, Com Viet is back in full effect in the tranquil neighbourhood near Truc Bach Lake. The ‘imperial’ staple, with its pristine décor and antiques, traditional bites and regal atmosphere, specialises in serving up traditional treats with contemporary fusion — think cheese wrapped in beef with a side of pickled cucumbers and a glass of red. Go on the right night and catch live traditional music in the courtyard and feel like a king.

Com Viet 63 Pham Hong Thai, Ba Dinh. Call 3927 5920 for more info and see this month’s Mystery Diner for a more detailed review

MARILYN INSTALLS ROOFTOP TERRACE Considering the amount of flat rooftops in this city, it’s a crime that most go under utilized.

However, the top floor of Chim Yen boutique and Marilyn’s cafe is now home to one of the most pleasant end-of-2011 additions. With a great, stone’s-throw-view of the cathedral, food and beverages, hopefully this spot will kick off a new trend.

Check out the rooftop at Marilyn’s/Chim Yen 4 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem

the talk

WE ARE NOW OPEN AT 6T HAM LONG The new Hanoi Gourmet shop is now open at 6T Ham Long offering a large selection of wine, cheese, deli products, chocolates and gifts for Tet.

We also remain open at our 1B Ham Long address with all the usual high quality products as well as lunch and dinner table service.

H PHAN CHU TRIN

HOAN KIEM LAKE E US HO ERA P ERA OP ON O T HIL YEN HU NT HA

HAM LONG UC LO D

VA N

HU

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1B

Tel: 3943 1009 E: info@hanoigourmet.com www.hanoigourmet.com

LE

NGO THI NHA M NGO QUYEN

HANG BA I

TRANG TIEN

January 2012 The Word | 11

The Exhibitionist

DUST TO DUST

GERMAN FILM WEEK German and Vietnamese speaking film lovers can enjoy a movie feast this month as the German film week kicks off at the Goethe Institut. During six nights starting on Jan. 6, more than ten selected films will be screened with diverse themes. While Fatih Akin’s latest comedy Soul Kitchen is said to light you up and make you laugh, Sascha brings up the story of an eighteen-year-old man who tries hard to cover up his sexuality from his homophobic father and The Cloud — screened on Jan. 8 — will strike some romantic notes.

Contact the Geothe Institut on 3734 2251 or swing by 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh for a detailed schedule. All movies are in German with Vietnamese subtitles

In her first solo exhibition in Vietnam since returning from a 70-day residence programme at Fukuoka Asian Art Museum (FAAM) in Japan, Hanoian artist Nguyen Phuong Linh will be taking the ‘stage’ at Hanoi Rock City in a two-floor exhibition of installation and photography, across four rooms and one outdoor space. According to the artist, “I thought collecting dust from nostalgic places and objects meant collecting memories. But the dust has no memory, no value, no meaning. It is just dust”.

‘Remained Landscape’ will open at Hanoi Rock City, 27/52 To Ngoc Van on Jan. 12

HANOI DRAWINGS AT ETE The Ba Dinh restobar will be hosting artwork and photographs this month from Vincent Bertholon, the illustrator and photographer from the recently published picture book Hanoi, From One City to Another. Pictures from the book — and others — will be up for grabs from VND250,000 to VND1,500,000 and the book itself will also be doing the rounds for VND400,000, but the tapas and Meo Vac rice wine are free.

Ete Bar, 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh. Email bertholonpictures@email.com for more info

STRETCH IT OUT French rock outfit Limousine is slated to bring the noise at L'Espace on Thursday Jan. 12 to present their own brand of rock-inspired contemporary jazz accompanied by more melodious pop. The show starts at 8pm, with tickets priced at VND100,000, or VND50,000 for L’Espace members and students with appropriate ID. Preview their music at www.myspace.com/limousineband. Tickets can be bought at L’Espace at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem

12 | The Word January 2012

PIECES OF EIGHT Not one, but eight — eight! — contemporary Vietnamese artists will show their work in a group exhibition in the Bui Gallery until Jan. 15. The exhibition 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 is a collection of works from a group of distinct, individual artists but with a close connection in their friendship, their nationality and their contemporaneity. Head to the French Quarter gallery to see the work of Ly Tran Quynh Giang, Truong Tan, Nguyen Thai Tuan, Le Huy Hoang, Nguyen Minh Thanh, Nguyen Quang Huy, Pham Ngoc Duong and Nguyen Manh Hung.

Bui Gallery — 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem.

Call 3944 8595 for more information or see thebuigallery.com

January 2012 The Word | 13

The Buzz

WALKING MILES FOR MONEY The city’s newest international school is already giving back. Concordia International School teamed up with LCMS World Mission to raise VND46 million for the Son Tinh Primary School in Phu Ho Province. In one hour, students and parents walked a total of 130 miles. Students from the Concordia campus in Cau Giay will hand-deliver the classroom supplies they raised to 153 students in Phu Ho.

FORTUNE EATING AT FORTUNA Whip up some luck this holiday with May Man Chinese Restaurant at the Fortuna Hotel. The traditional prosperity salad, Lo Hei ‘Yu Sheng’, will be served in celebration of Tet 2012 and you’ll need to toss your food into the air before eating it to symbolize success and fortune for the year ahead.

Served for groups of four or ten, it’s ideal for family, friends and business folk going from Jan 9. And if playing with your food isn’t your thing, The Coffee Lounge is offering a sweet twist on happy hour — half priced deserts after 6pm. Also available in January, a new set lunch menu at Tiffin and new Dim Sum creations including rice balls with peanut and palm sugar, deep fried egg with flour cake, and, for those seeking adventure in the new year, steamed pork tongue with black moss fungus.

Call Fortuna Hotel at 3831 3333 for more information or to make a reservation

COME FLY WITH ME The first Air Asia fl ight from Kuala Lumpur landed in Danang last month as rumours of a similar service from Bangkok beginning in February continue to grow. Marking a milestone in the central coast region’s surge towards becoming a bona fide international tourism destination, Air Asia fl ight 868 touched down in Danang on Dec. 16. The two-hour and 40-minute flight was made by a 180-seat Airbus A320, marking the beginning of a service between Vietnam’s third largest city and the Malaysian capital every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.

For more information visit www.airasia.com

14 | The Word January 2012

PRESSING MATTERS It’s all going off at the Press Club this January. The monthly event popular with everyone, Friday Night on the Terrace, takes place on Jan. 13 and mojitos in the Bar Lounge are buy-one-get-one-free as ‘cocktail of the month’. On the same floor, Vietnamese food classics from north to south will be served between Jan. 23 and Jan. 29 — with a free Tiger beer thrown in.

Happy Hour will be 5pm to 7pm and, as always, Press Club Pizza will be two-for-one at the weekends, eat in, take out or delivery.

Press Club, 59 A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem.

Call 3934 0888 for more info

A NEW KITCHEN DOOR One of our favourite food bloggers of 2011, Door to My Kitchen, aka Dao Chi Anh, has decided it's time for a brand new concept in Hanoi. Foodies and passionate cooks unite: Kitchen Art, which will be a retail space and classroom, will start serving up kitchen supplies (private and commercial) and cooking classes this January. The studio, which is up on Xuan Dieu, has big plans for classes with professional chefs and bloggers alike. If you’re a chef on the shyer side, or no chef at all, check out their demos broadcasted on their YouTube channel to get a flavour of what they do. And for all the home cooks out there, you'll never again need to search high and low for that kitchen utensil nobody has heard of.

Visit Kitchen Art Store and Studio at 38/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

HANOI

TANNOY

CALLING ALL KILTS Anyone been craving some Scottish heritage complete with whiskey, reels and Haggis? Spend the night drinking free flow whiskey and wine while dancing with The Indochina Whisky Club at their annual Burn’s Supper. Hand-carried from Scotland, real Scottish Haggis, and even vegetarian Haggis, will be served during the four-course meal. For those needing to brush up their Dashing White Sergeant or Strip The Willow moves, help is at hand. Dance practices will be held at Jaffa’s in Ciputra on Jan. 9 and Jan. 16, from 7.30pm to 9.30pm.

The annual Burn’s Supper is first come first served — go with a friend or take a table of 10. For more info check out the Facebook page ICUC Burns Supper, email icuc@gmail.com or telephone 0904 211930

MAKE IT A DOUBLE For those who didn’t get the memo that Hanoi Gourmet has a new location — 6T Ham Long — just down the street for the old outlet, you’ve been told. Now all those great cold cuts, cheeses and quality bottles of liquor can be enjoyed in an equally fine location just a stone’s throw from the old one.

If you don’t know, now you know…

Hanoi Gourmet, 6T Ham Long, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3943 1009

MADAGUI TROPHY 2012 The fifth edition of the Madagui Trophy, scheduled to take place on Feb. 25 and Feb. 26, is now open for registration.

Organised by adventure tour operator Viet Adventure and held in and around Cat Tien National Park in Lam Dong Province, the triathlon-style team competition takes place in the jungle. It consists of running, mountain biking and river swimming.

Teams of two must complete the twoday endurance race together and travel for the duration of the event as a cohesive unit. Multiple levels of difficulty are offered, beginning with the “Adventure” for novices, followed by “Extreme” for advanced competitors and the “Ultra”, which is billed as the ultimate jungle race for the more adventurous who don’t mind racing in the dark.

With entries already received from Vietnam, China, Switzerland, France, New Zealand, Singapore, the US and UK, visit www.vietadventure.vn to fill out a registration form to claim your spot before the competition fills up

Yeah, I like hot-chubby sometimes He's always trying to pimp me out. He needs a feather hat or something I’m not taking a picture of that You gonna start shopping at Gucci? Well, you know, when in Rome He must have been brought up listening to The Smiths Pose, Snap, Snap, Pose We should be inseparable this Christmas So you don’t celebrate Christmas but you’re wearing a Christmas sweater? Cool I’m so obsessed I could fall for the garbage lady There’s luck and there are ladies. I got both.

You call this winter? I call it pain!

The only reason they’ve got customers is because of the service Service? Hanoi? You’re joking, right?

January 2012 The Word | 15

OUR MAN

BY STEVE JACKSON

PUB PUNCH UPS OR PHOTOS WITH FLOWERS? I SPENT A RECENT LUNCHTIME WITH the small team that make up my work department, enjoying a Christmas lunch before I head back to the UK. I’ve a new phone, with a better camera than the last, so I’m back to that irritating habit of snapping and sharing everything that moves. My colleagues, my meal, me — it all made it onto Facebook.

Looking back at the pictures, it’s hard not to notice how tame it was. Just a normal lunch albeit with great food and company, the most potent drink we enjoyed was Coca Cola. There’s a pint in front of me in one photo but it’s cold tea, with a straw.

I wondered aloud later. Did Vietnam do that to me or is this just me getting older? I recall the boozy Christmas parties from when I worked in newspapers. One unpopular editor said she’d cover the drinks for the first hour. People were stockpiling pints under the table to see them through the night. I returned home with my shirt ripped.

But then Vietnam has a curious relationship with alcohol. The most drunk I get is when I’m with my extended Vietnamese family. Alcohol is harder work now, but it’s not unusual for me to have a range of glasses in front of me filled with

16 | The Word January 2012

anything from brandy to rice wine. Time is irrelevant too. A special lunch may be served well before 12, meaning you’re ready to collapse for the day by one.

In contrast, somebody recently forwarded me a photo set of a night out in Cardiff. I think it was Cardiff but, frankly, it could have been anywhere in the UK. The pictures showed an extreme version but I recall seeing much of what it depicted.

People collapsed in gutters, broken noses, public puking, etc.

Frankly I’m scared of all that now. Not physically so, just the embarrassment of it all — though, strangely, I can’t quite work out who I’m embarrassed for. Me? Them?

The city? My country?

Is this how you feel when you get old?

Or is this what happens when you spend lots of time in Vietnam?

It’s hard to recognise my younger-pre Vietnam self. Last year I (generously) took my wife to see my football team. She met my UK friends in the pub beforehand.

All of them respectable, married, thirty to forty-somethings. And then later, at the ground, one of them, a university lecturer, launched into an eye-bulging F and C-word rant directed at a group of Manchester City supporters. I didn’t know where to put

myself. I’m fairly sure I might have done this in the past.

It’s not like I’ve discovered some kind of Vietnam Zen. But I find myself increasingly appreciating the cutesiness of the country, when once I might have sneered. My young colleagues, if their Facebook pages are to be believed, spend their free time photographing each other in flowery meadows. I genuinely like that.

I like the fact that they can apparently do this without irony, cynicism or a bottle of vodka.

Whether this is age or location I’m happy to be free of sneering in pubs, football anger and cynicism. I like the fact that young people in Vietnam can find fun in the seemingly innocent without having to cover it in layers of irony.

And yes I know too that Vietnam has more than it’s fair share of “social evils” — but surely, just occasionally, actions that appear innocent, are innocent. Better still, this lack of cynicism is twinned with ambition and optimism too.

Because, although I’m getting old, in Vietnam everything around me still feels newer, brighter and more optimistic.

Getting old in England may have been a far scarier prospect.

the talk

LIMESTONE GROTTO GALA In May 2012, several dozen passengers of Emeraude Classic Cruises, bedecked in black ties and gowns, will descend the gangplank and ascend a limestone pathway to a torch-lit grotto for a gala dinner. The event, which takes place from May 26 to May 27, will be the 8th Annual Wine Cruise for the Emeraude. The in-grotto dinner will be accompanied by vintages from the Rhone Valley’s M. Chapoutier Winery, including the Condrieu Invitare, Crozes-Hermitage “Les Meysonniers”, La Bernardine Chateauneuf du Pape and Les Becasses Cote Rotie in Condrieu, a village in France’s Rhone Valley.

For more information visit www.emeraude-cruises.com

NEW YEAR @ LIFE RESORTS Treat yourself with a luxury start to the New Year with affordable deals at Life Resorts throughout Vietnam.

Among other promos, a superior room with breakfast goes on offer from VND1,545,000 to VND1,957,000 a night, and for an extra VND21,000, you can add on a selection of spa treatments too. Choose from cucumber facials, green tea body scrubs and aromatherapy massages. For just one dollar it could be hard to resist.

Blue Ocean Resort Mui Ne, Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon, Life Heritage Resort Hoi An. To book call 3844 3605 or email sales@life-resorts.com

DRINK AND BE MERRY For those who don’t mind whetting your whistle during the holidays, Bacchus Corner has a host of promotions to celebrate the good times. For ANZ cardholders, enjoy a 15 percent discount on all items from Jan. 13 to Jan. 15 in honour of the lunar New Year.

For more information, drop by Bacchus Corner at 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, or call 3935 1393

DON’S GETS JET FRESH

LUCKY LIQUOR Still not sure what to get that special someone, friend or colleague for the holiday season? Well, the folks at Highway 4 know what a good gift looks like — a hip flask, funnel, a couple of cups and Son Tinh rice wine should certainly do the trick. The famed eatery has a whole host of different packaged gifts that aim to make giving a little easier.

For more information go to www.highway4.com or drop by any of their several locations around town

For anyone into oysters, Don’s is the place to be this month. Over the past twenty years Malpeques oysters, native to Prince Edward Island, have taken the world by storm. Lucky for us, the jet-fresh oysters have landed in Hanoi — find the sweet but bold aphrodisiacs at Don’s rooftop bar accompanied by live music and Montes Limited Sauvignon Blanc.

Also the Tay Ho favourite’s new winter menus include pan-seared chilled Australian venison rack, while the cigar and drink pairing of Cohiba Behike 56 and rare 25-year-old Cuban rum will be sure to keep everyone warm amid Hanoi’s chillier times.

Don’s Tay Ho, 6/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. For reservations call 3719 2828

January 2012 The Word | 17

the talk

THE WHOPPER HAS LANDED After years of speculation, and with Carl's Junior already here, the first of the big worldwide burger chains has finally made it to Vietnam. With the first branch now open at the Tan Son Nhat international terminal, and with a second outlet apparently being constructed at the airport in Danang, Burger King is finally getting its Whopper-sized claws into Vietnamese soil, if, that is, you’re flying out of the country.

Brought in by Imex Pan Pacific, at present no plans have been released as to when Burger King will receive clearance to operate in downtown Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi. For the benefit of our waistlines, the hope is that it won't be for some time.

HOLIDAY SHOPPING NOT OVER YET If Santa didn’t deliver exactly what you were hoping for, La Casa’s Pre-Tet sale will be a welcome extension to your holiday spirit. Shop for home furnishing goodies at two locations — Xuan Dieu or Bao Khanh — with up to 40 percent discount. Perfect if you want to give the home a new feel for the New Year. If you’re leaving Vietnam for Tet, catch this sale before you jet. It goes from Jan. 13 – 15.

Shop at Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho or call 3718 4084. Visit the second location at Bao Khanh Lane, Hoan Kiem, or call 3828 9616

THE MONTH @ HRC The first birthday bash in December went off — it must have been the busiest Hanoi Rock City has experienced it since opening — which summed up a cracking year for the To Ngoc Van party and live music venue.

To keep the bass drum kicking there is a packed schedule for January 2012.

On Jan. 6, Matt Vend and the Tender Ten bring live acoustic folk and rock from South Africa, while it gets a bit darker on Friday Jan. 13 with Vietnamese underground acts and foreign bands representing rock, metal and the darker wobbles of dubstep.

USA drum and bass duo Indradevi perform live on Jan. 14 while on Jan. 28, Thai indie rock bands The Standards and Popscene take to the stage. Performance art is on the agenda too, but you’ll have to check the exhibitionist section of these pages for more info on that.

Hanoi Rock City, 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho

18 | The Word January 2012

SOFITEL METROPOLE SPA WINS AGAIN Hanoi’s 110-year-old infamous luxury hotel, the Sofitel Metropole Legend, has won its second spa award since opening. Le Spa du Metropole came away from the 2011 Asia Spa Awards with the trophy for Best Urban Spa of the Year.

The Indochine-style spa charms over three floors and features a Jet Lag Recovery Massage. Handy.

Le Spa du Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON OPENS Already with a well-known property in Hanoi, the five-star Hotel Nikko Saigon opened last month and is celebrating with special rates until the end of January — deluxe rooms and Nikko Club Executive suites going for VND2,520,000 and VND4,620,000, respectively.

Good news for those heading south this Tet. The promo includes one complimentary buffet breakfast and Wi-Fi access in all guestrooms, free use of the fitness centre and outdoor swimming pool, and a 15 percent discount on food and drink at La Brasserie.

Hotel Nikko Saigon is located at 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1. For more information and booking enquires, visit www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn or call 3925 7777

the talk

Ho Chi Minh City Open 9 am - 7 pm everyday

Hanoi Open 9 am - 9 pm everyday

64 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1 Tel: 083 914 2119

13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3926 4831

NEW SHOP: 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1 NEW SHOP: S17-Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh Phu My Hung, District 7

www.mekong-quilts.org

January 2012 The Word | 19

In the Papers THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

HANOI AND SAIGON COSTLY FOR EXPATS IN ASIA Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City have been ranked 41st and 43rd, respectively, among the 49 most expensive cities for expats to live in Asia, according to a new survey by the consulting firm ECA International.

ECA's Cost of Living Survey is carried out biannually in March and September by measuring a basket of common items purchased by expats in more than 400 locations globally, such as dairy, produce, clothing and dining out.

The survey does not include housing, utilities, car and school expenses as these costs are offset by other factors, the firm said.

According to the survey, the last 12 months have seen considerable increases in the cost of food, oil and other commodities in many parts of the world.

In Asia, some of the biggest increases for items in ECA's basket of goods and services have been witnessed in Bangladesh (15 percent), Vietnam (14.2 percent) and India (13.3 percent). On average, prices have risen by just over eight percent in Asia.

"While, in locations like Singapore, price inflation has worked alongside exchange rate movements to push a location up the cost of living ranking, in other cases currency fluctuations are still outweighing the impact of inflation,� explains Lee Quane, ECA International's regional director.

The survey showed Japanese cities occupied the top four most expensive locations in Asia, with Tokyo ranked first followed by Nagoya, Yokohama and Kobe.

Rounding out Asia's top ten list of most expensive locations are Seoul in fifth place, followed by Singapore, Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Busan.

While living costs have risen by more than eight percent on average in Asia, this has not diminished the appeal of the region to foreign companies, ECA International said.

"People still want to move here, companies still want to expand their operations here," Quane said.

VIETNAM FOLK MUSIC IN LINE FOR UNESCO CREDIT Don ca tai tu, a fading genre of folk music mainly developed and common in the south of Vietnam, will be submitted to UNESCO by March 2011 for recognition as Intangible Cultural Heritage.

The Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism is now conducting research to trace down its origin and systemize musical theory of the genre. They are also collecting signature songs to send to UNESCO. Unlike other traditional music genres, the art is rooted in the scholarly musical theory of the Vietnamese royal court music in the former capital of Hue before being adapted for the masses.

This genre is generally popular in the Mekong Delta.

20 | The Word January 2012

the talk

PROJECT TO MAKE E-DRIVING LICENCES A group of researchers has proposed to the Can Tho City People’s Committee a project to produce electronic driving licences that will enable traffic police to have better control over drivers.

An e-driver’s licence, which has been applied in many other countries, can store high volumes of data related to the driver including personal details, photographs, medical records, history of traffic compliance, payment of fines through banks and much more useful information, the group said.

Traffic police simply place such e-licences, which have the same size as an ATM card, to a handheld card scanner and read the information displayed on the machine’s screen.

If approved, the project will be implemented on a pilot basis in several provinces and cities.

CITY ORDERS 35,000 MOBILE SUBSCRIBERS CUT OFF The Ho Chi Minh City Department of Information and Communications has ordered mobile operators to stop providing services to more than 35,000 prepaid mobile phone subscribers who have ignored the requirement of registering their personal information on subscription.

The penalties were levied after the department conducted inspection into seven service operators on their management over prepaid subscribers in the city as ordered by the city's People’s Committee.

Viettel Telecom Group has the most subscribers that are scheduled to have their services cut, followed by Vinaphone and Mobiphone.

The order came after the subscribers had either failed to provide personal information or provided false information when registering to activate a new mobile phone account.

Subscribers are required to provide service operators with information including full name, ID or passport number and date of birth when registering to use a new mobile phone number.

January 2012 The Word | 21

JANUARY CALENDAR MON

SUN 01

02

TUE 03

WED 04

Happy Hour @ Southgate, daily from 5pm to 8pm

Happy Hour @ Don's Tay Ho, 5pm to 7pm daily

08 Happy Hour @ Press Club, 5pm to 7pm (weekends)

10 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 12 @ Bui Gallery, until Jan. 15

Happy Hour @ The Bistro, 5pm to 6.30pm (daily)

Match Box happy hour every week day 4pm to 7pm, buy one get one free on all drinks

15

Future Lounge @ The Rooftop every Tue. with DJ Cache

16

22

17 1 7

23

24

Sunday Brunch @ Southgate e Street Hockey Night @ United Nations International School, 6.30pm to 8pm (weekly)

30

Toastmasters Meetings @ KOTO, 6.45pm to 9pm, every 1st st & 3rd Tue.

31 Cine-Music Sessions @ Cinematheque, 8pm (every week) Salsa Party by Salsa Hanoi @ Olympic Dance Club, 8pm to 10pm (weekly)

22 | The Word January 2012

JJam a Sessions theatre, IMPROV ACT @ la 4uatrième, 8pm to 11.30pm (weekly) la

18 1 8 Space and the Fragments of Space @ L’Espace, until Jan. 23

25 2 5

Hanoi Trivia @ R&R R Tavern, Tue. 9.30pm to 11.30pm 0pm (weekly)

Sunday Winter Warmer Session @ HRC, 2pm to 7pm (weekly)

29

11 1 1

FFree re r Group Vietnamese Lesson @ Puku, 7pm to 9pm (weekly)

Instruments performed with Kick Off band @ Heresy Rock Club, 8.45 pm to 11pm (weekly) Traditional Vietnamese se Trio Band @ Oyster Bar, ar, Don's Tay Ho, every Sun. at 8.30pm

Jazz Band @ Oyster Bar, Don's Tay Ho, 8.30pm to 10.30pm, every Wed. and Thu.

Quiz night @ Hanoi Rock City, 8.15pm to 10pm (weekly)

To have your event included in our calendar, please email kaitlin@wordhanoi.com by no later than Jan. 7 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

THU 05

TOUR DE FIVE Thursday tour of Hanoi nightlife by Hanoi RidazzCycling Group @ Hanoi Opera House, 8pm to 10pm (weekly)

FRI 06 Matt Vend & The Tender Ten @ HRC M ““Astérix et Obélix-Mission Cléopâtre” screening @ C L’Espace, 8pm L’

SAT 07 German Film Week @ Goethe Institut, from Jan. 6 Saturday night @ Heresy Rock Club, 8.30pm to 11pm (weekly)

H Wild @ The American Club Hog

12

13 1 3

14

“Andalucia” screening at L’Espace, 8pm “An “A

Limousine @ L’Espace, 8pm Remained Landscape @ HRC

Friday Frid Night on the Terrace @ Press Pre Club Vietnamese Rock @ HRC

20

19

Acoustic Night with Finger-style Guitar @ Heresy Rock Club, 8.30pm to 11pm (weekly) Board Game / Card Game night @ Joma, 7pm to 9pm (weekly)

26

t d New western and Vietnamese breakfast menu @ Matchbox (daily)

Indradevi @ HRC

27

21 Luala outdoor classical music concert, @ 61 Ly Thai To, 3pm to 5pm

Ladies Night with Hanoi Panic! @ Half Man / Half Noodle, 10pm to 3am

28

The Standards & Popscene @ HRC

SCENE

PHOTOS BY DAVE LEMKE

OVER

EL GAUCHO OPENS The Argentinian steak house from down south opened up on Xuan Dieu with a beef and bubbly filled bash

PECHAKUCHA PART TWO

PROVIDED BY KINDERWORLD

PHOTOS BY IAN PAYNTON

City speakers came together to present a compelling mix of imagery and commentary in the cozy confines of the Cinematheque for the second time

KINDERWORLD CHARITY FAIR Training restaurant The Bistro teamed up with the Kinderworld International Kindergarten to celebrate Christmas and raise money for charity

A BIRTHDAY WITH SOLE

HIWC BAZAAR RED RIVER MARATHON The Song Hong Half Marathon went down a storm, with runners of all ages getting athletic over in Ciputra

HANOI ROCK CITY TURNS ONE And what better way to celebrate than a rammed out free party with DJs, live music and art

PROVIDED BY HRC

To get folk in the mood for the holidays, the Hanoi International Women’s Club organised a packed day of food, drinks and performances

PHOTOS BY DAVE CUMMINGS

PROVIDED BY SOLE AND GTI INTERNATIONAL

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY JOLEN CONSULTING

The fashion boutique selling imported brands and sizes celebrated one year of high fashion on Hanoi’s Nha Chung Street

TREND SPOTTER

CAMA and the Capital

WORD CATCHES UP WITH ONE OF THE CAMA BOYS, GILES COOPER, AFTER THEIR LATEST MUSIC FESTIVAL GO!GO! JAPAN TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THEIR MUSICAL TAKEOVER OF THE CITY Who is CAMA? The short answer is four long-term residents of Hanoi who missed live music.

We work together in our spare time for love, not profit, to entertain ourselves and help diversify the local music scene by exposing it to international acts [brought in

by CAMA].

How long has CAMA been around?

CAMA proper has been around since 2005 when it held its first party in the infamous Almaz Hotel (the landlady turned the water and electricity off around 9pm!). But if you look at its roots, it’s a mix of the people who originally established the Minsk Club (1997) and Cafe Puku (2000), and the spirit of both those ventures is very much evident in CAMA.

What is your motivation in bringing independent music to Hanoi?

At the beginning the motive was simple: live, contemporary, international music didn't exist here beyond sponsored cultural events. Who wants to see a German techno act sitting down in a youth theatre between the hours of 7pm and 9pm with nothing to drink beyond a warm can of Tiger beer, which couldn't be taken into the theatre?

So at first the motivation was selfish. Since then lots has changed. Hanoi has changed.

26 | The Word January 2012

There are more people, more activities available, more places, so the motivation is less straightforward. Nevertheless, we still think we do something that others aren't doing. So there's a place for us to continue.

What do you hope CAMA’s events do for the city, for Vietnam, and for artists?

We hope that it brings fun into some lives — for both the visiting artists and those who attend our events. There's also the bigger picture of being part of a change by exposing local audiences and performers to quality international acts. If you saw the faces of the local support bands during Electric Eel Shock's set at Go Go Japan, you'd know that this is a very real thing. As for Vietnam itself, we act as ambassadors when we host artists here. Some people we've worked with are used to very sophisticated touring and performing environments. In many cases, these artists never consider the possibility of playing in Vietnam and often it's Vietnam itself that sells the opportunity for this reason. Finally, I confess, we are also partly motivated by masochism… doing battle with the myriad forces that can so easily conspire, in absurd and illogical ways, to kill or maim an event.

Every event has its own challenges, none of them is ever easy.

It seemed like Go!Go!Japan brought in more of a Vietnamese crowd than we remember compared to when Wierdo Heroes or Lymbyc System were here. Was that intentional?

Yes — we know how much the kids here love rock and we know that many of them feel priced out of some of our events.

So this was an opportunity to design something specifically for a local audience.

I think that was evident in the choice of venue and the VND60,000 ticket price. But generally speaking our target audience is whoever is interested in a specific type of act, with a clear intention to target local groups that we think would enjoy the music if only they had exposure to it.

We hear you're opening a bar! Will this be venue for international acts too?

Yes. It's really our third bar — the first two were temporary places in random locations.

This one is more permanent and will have more thought put into it. We'll use it as a base for CAMA operations and while it's probably too small as a venue for bands, it's perfect for DJs and small electronic acts.

So we're looking forward to moving in that direction on a regular basis and providing a grown-up place with a focus on quality drinks and music for consenting adults.

Insider

Q&A / THE MANY FACES OF HANOI / RED RIVER DIARIES

PHOTO BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

Q&A

Dengue Fever Douglas Pyper celebrates a decade of Dengue Fever with founding band member Ethan Holtzman and singer Chhom Nimol after their show in Hanoi at the end of last year. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos YOU’RE OFTEN DESCRIBED AS A KHMER ROCK BAND. IS THAT TRUE OR IS KHMER ROCK FROM THE LATE 1960S / EARLY 1970S JUST ONE OF YOUR INFLUENCES? Ethan: Khmer rock was our main influence when we started. Nimol comes from Cambodia and grew up there listening to artists [like] Sinn Sisamouth, the golden voice Ros Sereysothea, and Pen Ron. Now we draw influences from music all across the world — African rhythms or psychedelic music; it doesn’t really matter. We’re not just doing Cambodian rock. We’ve expanded. Nimol can speak English better now so we are doing more songs in English to reach more people.

IS THERE MUCH DIFFERENCE IN THE RECEPTION YOU GET BETWEEN GIGS IN THE US AND SHOWS IN CAMBODIA? Ethan: Generally we get good responses in Cambodia, it’s been incredible. This is our third trip there and, I mean, we played for five or six thousand people. We did some free shows on the streets in Battambong, which is where Nimol grew up. And it’s also where Ros Soreysothea — the best singer — was born so we went there and did a show. We focused on a lot of the old 1960s songs for the villagers and they tripped out.

Nimol: They like the way Dengue Fever is American but playing Cambodian music. They’re surprised because they think we’re going to sing like Britney Spears or Beyonce — hip hop and pop — but we sing traditional music. We’d never played in Battambong or Siem Riep before, either. [This time] we played in a temple, which is usually quiet for the monks to pray…

Ethan: [Villagers] came and set up to sell food and watch the show. After we played they were just looking. They didn’t know what to do. They didn’t clap and they didn’t dance — they just had never seen it before.

WHAT IS THE SCENE LIKE IN CAMBODIA NOW? ARE THERE ANY YOUNG MUSICIANS OR BANDS MAKING INTERESTING MUSIC? Ethan: There were some great musicians in Battambang. There is a Phaire Light school — an arts college. We jammed with the kids there. We did a workshop and they were the best musicians that we’ve played with in Cambodia. They were younger, like 18 to 25, and really good. They had learned one of our songs and played it with us live in Battambong. At the school they had not just music but art and circus; they had a big room where they were doing trapeze and trampoline work. That was really cool.

28 | The Word January 2012

January 2012 The Word | 29

Nimol: It’s a French school. All the students know how to play pop, rock, traditional and wedding music. They can play all the music — very cool.

Ethan: As for other bands […] there is Pu Kleang, an MC who raps.

He was at two of our shows and jumped up and collaborated, rapping over a song of ours.

SO YOU GET REALLY INVOLVED WITH THE LOCAL PEOPLE AND LEARN LOTS ABOUT THE CULTURE? Ethan: Yeah, we work with a lot of organisations. [A friend of ours] is concentrating on all the best charities in Cambodia [and is] the president of Cambodian Living Arts. We [did] a couple of benefits [including] a huge show on Diamond Island — Koh Pich. We raised over US$10,000.

HAVE YOU DISCOVERED ANY VIETNAMESE MUSICIANS OR INSTRUMENTS THAT YOU’VE BEEN INTERESTED BY? Ethan: We jammed today with some musicians at the Hanoi Music Academy, they were jazz musicians and really good. The only Vietnamese artist I know is half Vietnamese half French, his name’s Onra. And I like the dan bau, I bought one on an earlier trip to Vietnam.

WHAT ABOUT OTHER MUSIC FROM AROUND THE REGION? Nimol: I love Isan. We just got back from Laos. We played there for the first time and played with some Laotian singers. I love Isan music and some traditional instruments like raneat ek [a wooden alto xylophone]. I like Thai songs, traditional ones like Luk Thung.

Ethan: In Indonesia, there’s a record, it’s folk and pop from Sumatra and it’s incredible. Some of the stuff is top notch. It’s on Sublime Frequencies, it’s called Folk Songs from Sumatra. Track it down, it’s really good.

IN 2010 YOU GUYS PLAYED THE CAMA FESTIVAL IN HANOI — HOW WAS THAT? Ethan: It was a tough show for me because my keyboard didn’t make it on the flight. One of the opening bands was nice enough to lend me their keyboard. I play Nord Stage but they had a Nord Electro, so it was similar but different. I was relying on the pre-sets.

But that’s just from my perspective, everybody else had a great time. We had to buy clothes. We didn’t have our luggage so we

30 | The Word January 2012

went shopping.

Nimol: That was my first time in Hanoi and [will be] the first memory forever! At the last minute I was looking for a dress to wear onstage and shoes and everything…

Ethan: No bags, no luggage, no toothbrush, nothing!

DOES CAMBODIA HAVE A SIMILAR INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL? Ethan: Not yet but it seems like it’s changing. Cambodia is opening up a lot, it’s really developing. People are cautious because of the dark history not that long ago and when I ask people “what do you think of it?” they are cautious — cautiously optimistic. But I think there will be music festivals. We’ll be going back there. We’ve connected Cambodians and NGOs and expats and foreigners. The shows we played there sold out and it was really exciting for us.

ANY PARTICULAR HIGHS OVER THE LAST DECADE? Nimol: The best show was the last one in Koh Pich and in Battambong, I felt like we’d made it and people really enjoyed it. I never thought that Dengue Fever would come to play in Cambodia.

I thought it wasn’t going to happen.

Ethan: Istanbul, we went there twice. That was, to me, an incredible tour because the city is half Europe, half Asia […] but this [2011 Electric Mekong] tour, by far for me, has been the best. It’s been the most exciting and the most organised.

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR DENGUE FEVER? Ethan: [We’re] starting our own record label called Tuk Tuk Records to put out our back catalogue, which we own now. We just got a new booking agent in Europe so we’ll be touring in Europe in maybe June and July. What else? We’ll do a show in San Francisco when we get back.

NO SIGNS OF STOPPING — YOU’VE STILL GOT PLANS AND ARE STILL ENJOYING IT? Ethan: Yeah, […] we’re just trying to reach more people and continue to tour places where we are wanted.

This interview was edited and condensed

TET SPECIAL

Time for a

TET Talk Vietnam’s most anticipated holiday is more than just a few days o. Word shines a light for those left in the dark. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos and Dominic Blewett

W

e’re only just recovering from Christmas and New Year and Tet has arrived early, throwing Hanoi into Vietnam’s biggest annual holiday.

A celebration of Lunar New Year, Tet 2012 will welcome the Year of the Dragon — the only mythical creature on the lunar calendar.

Tet’s all about luck, and new beginnings.

Expect to see Vietnamese families spring cleaning their homes, buying new clothes and settling any disputes before the celebrations begin; behaviour and attitude at the start of Tet determines how the rest of the year will follow. Cities and villages across the country morph into new entities; markets transform into kumquat and peach blossom forests.

Avenues and alleyways empty. City dwellers go back to the countryside for this time of reconnection with families, friends and colleagues.

Spirits are thanked for having blessed their families during the last year and ancestors are invited to return home.

Enter The Dragon The celebrations typically last for nine days but will often go on for longer. There are a handful of noteworthy dates to keep in mind. By Dec. 23 on the lunar calendar (or Jan. 16, 2012) the Kitchen God will have left the building, or, more appropriately, the home. Tao Quan flies to the heavens on the back of a fish to report family behaviour to the powers that be. To prepare for his journey, families burn paper fish and money, and some in Hanoi release gold fish or carp into nearby lakes and the Red River.

Like with most calendars, New Year’s Eve (Jan. 22) is when the magic happens. Traditional Tet meals are prepped in the kitchen to welcome the most sacred moment of the holiday — the family’s ancestors enter the home and the New Year commences. An altar is placed in the front of the house with a whole chicken, a plate of salt and a serving of rice to mark the occasion. Families choose one person — often a male — to be the first to enter the house. If the person bears favourable astrological signs and enjoyed good fortune during the year, their passage is believed to transfer luck to the home. Shop owners choose their first customers with equal prudence and consult fortunetellers before selecting a day to re-open after Tet. Three Days of Tet (Jan. 23 to Jan. 25) are dedicated to spending time with family and friends. On the first day, in accordance with tradition, married couples visit the husband’s parents. During the second, the wife’s family is visited, and some even drop by the homes of their teachers on the third.

Tet officially ends on Jan. 26 but this is flexible — some families conclude celebrations on the third or fifth day. A traditional meal is prepared for the departure of ancestors, who leave the home and continue their journey in the afterlife.

NEW YEAR NIBBLES BANH CHUNG A green, square-shaped sticky rice covered pie a with bean and pork centre, all wrapped in dong leaves.

Possibly better fried — just saying GIO CHA Sausage made from pork or pork skin and wrapped in green leaves MUT Sugar coated fruits

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XOI GAC Red sticky rice, coloured by gac fruits — said to be healthy HAT DUA Fried watermelon seeds CANH MANG Bamboo shoot stew with pig trotters

TET CUSTOMS

SPEECHLESS?

RITE OF PASSAGE: The ritual of carefully choosing the first person to enter the house in the New Year is rooted in the xong dat practice, where an individual is selected to touch the soil before a new crop is sown

So not everyone can speak Vietnamese. But whatever you do say this Tet, be sure to say the following (using the correct tones, of course):

BACK AWAY FROM THE BROOM: On the first day of Tet, families avoid sweeping or disposing of rubbish as it’s feared that luck and good fortune will be swept out onto the street DAMAGED GOODS: Go ahead, break a glass or two. Such minor incidents are said to be fortuitous IT’S YOUR BIRTHDAY: You are now one year older. Adults give children lucky money to congratulate them on their ‘birthday’ SEEING RED: Red scares away evil spirits at this time of year, so expect to see it everywhere

CHUC MUNG NAM MOI Happy New Year TIEN VO NHU NUOC May money flow into your life like water VAN SU NHU Y May 10,000 of your wishes come true SONG LAU TRAM TUOI May you live 100 years (said to the elderly) SUC KHOE DOI DAO To good health BUON MAY BAN DAT Cheers to your business (said to shop owners, and business owners)

THE DRAGON: The only mythical creature on the calendar symbolises royalty, prosperity and a whole heap of luck

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THE MANY FACES OF HANOI

The Classic Car Collector Words by Karryn Miller. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

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ran Quang Hung flicks through the images on his phone, pausing when he finds one of a new addition to his family. You could mistake him for a proud parent — with his big grin and eagerness to share — but Hung isn’t showing me family portraits. Instead we’re looking at a shot of a retro Citroen Ami 6, the latest vehicle to join his vintage car collection. Including the Ami, Hung has five classic cars — the youngest of which is 46 years old.

Hung, 39, has long been passionate about autos.

He recalls fondly when he first joined Ford Vietnam in 1996.

“I still remember the first time I saw Henry Ford in a photo standing in front of one of his Model Ts,” says Hung, who stops talking for a moment to show me a similar photo he has — of himself posing, like Ford, in front of a vintage car. Hung may have had a desk job at Ford, but that didn’t diminish his interest in mechanics.

“Even though I wasn’t actually working on the assembly line I was still down there every day,” he says.

Hung moved on from Ford in 2006, but his keen interest in vehicles has only gotten stronger. Last year his passion turned from a hobby to a business with the launch of Hung Xe Co — a classic car rental company. That, of course, meant he needed to grow his family.

“I bought my first one, a 1966 VW Beetle 1300cc, in May [2011] from Lam Dong province [in the Central Highlands],” explains Hung. “I bought a one-way ticket to Dalat and drove it back to Hanoi.”

His 1966 Simca also went on a long journey to get to its new home. Hung picked it up from Hau Giang, about 200km out of Ho Chi Minh City. As he was driving the length of the country he called about a Citroen Traction Avant that he had made an offer on and found out his bid was successful. Hung continued to drive the Simca, while the Citroen was transported by truck from Nghe An. The Movenpick Hotel’s Citroen Traction Avant was bought by Hung in September and his final purchase for 2011 was a Citroen Ami 6 in December.

Given Vietnam’s restrictions on importing cars over five years old, Hung has had to scour the country to build up his fleet. He says the law makes no exception for classic cars, so they need to either be found locally or brought in piece by

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“I still remember the first time I saw Henry Ford in a photo standing in front of one of his Model T's,” says Hung, who stops talking for a moment to show me a similar photo he has — of himself posing, like Ford, in front of a vintage car piece and then reassembled.

These limitations have resulted in Hung spending a lot of time behind the wheel, but his experiences have helped him with one segment of his new endeavour. Part of his goal in building up a classic car rental company is to also develop more of a culture of appreciation for classic cars in Vietnam and to create a community of like-minded enthusiasts.

Hung offers an example, “We are able to share our experiences such as where to park on long road trips, and safe routes to drive at night in Vietnam”.

If you ever purchase a car over 40 years old and decide to take a road trip, he offers, park it at the top of a hill each night — just in case you have to roll it down and pop the clutch to get it started in the morning.

The main element of his business at the moment is renting out his cars for photo shoots, events, city tours and airport pick-ups. Hung is also excited about the possibility of longer classic car road trips out of the capital.

The car enthusiast is almost philosophical in explaining how he hopes his efforts will be beneficial for posterity.

“Classic cars are built to last and I want to retain them for the next generation,” he says. Given this long-term outlook, Hung settled on the slogan tu qua khu toi tuong lai for his business, which in English means “from the past to the future”.

New sports cars, he explains are only good until the next year’s model comes out. “I like the permanence that classic cars represent.”

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RED COVER STORY

RIVER

DIARIES PHOTOS AND DIARY ENTRIES BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

The Red River, or Song Hong, the great river of the north. Rising in Yunnan, it meanders through northern Vietnam and dissects Hanoi before emptying lazily into the Gulf of Tonkin. Once a key transportation route and responsible for the development of the country’s earliest cities, the lands along the river are now mere backwaters. Subjected to poverty and monotonous tasks, people on the Red River’s banks carve out a living, from the uplands of Lao Cai to the plains of the delta in Nam Dinh

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ON THE BORDER

6

WORDS BY NICK ROSS

am in Lao Cai and the mist is rising over the river.

The night could have been cold, but from the back aching and neck wrenching comfort of the overnight train it’s difficult to tell. Out in the fresh December air, the city begins to stir.

Following Nguyen Hue along the river, the road eventually comes out to the Friendship Bridge where the Red River splits in two. The Lam Thi River runs along the border before heading north into China. The Red River also separates the two countries, but it’s in Lao Cai that this great river flows south in its long passage through Vietnam.

At this confluence sits a pagoda — Den Mau Lao Cai. It's nothing to look at; no different from so many other temples in the north of the country. Inside, from the confines of altars, gold-painted dragons and burning incense, a TV blares folk music. It’s a strange contrast to the peace of the pagoda but the views of the rivers, the city beyond and the jungle-covered mountains are magnificent.

Follow the Lam Thi River and what starts as an unkempt, paved promenade turns into manicured gardens with palm trees and subtropical foliage.

“Everyone in Lao Cai speaks Mandarin,” says a woman taking an

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early stroll along the river. It's not the local dialect of the town on the other side, but it is widely understood. She adds: “We're Vietnamese, so we can cross over the bridge. [Foreigners] need a visa.”

Despite the fact that Lao Cai is a city, the vegetable and fruit gardens still remain. So do the forested mountains. A woman is tending her crops on the muddy banks of the river, filling up her can and then watering her plants — su su, lettuce, long beans and other standard fare. She is dressed well, without the garb of the countryside farmer.

Her garden, it seems, is a hobby.

Behind this is Chua Thuong, the city's most revered pagoda. Built around a giant, age-old banyan tree and facing the Lam Thi River, part of the complex is being restored while the stone and marble renderings of the 12 signs of the zodiac remain open to the public.

Striving to the Future At first sight, little seems to have changed in Lao Cai during the last decade. It is still a sleepy border town flanked by mountains. But construction has started. A few high-rises like the Biti Tower now fill the skyline and the bridge over Song Hong to Coc Leu is being widened. It's a mess of a project with debris piled everywhere, but at 6am the blue uniformed workers are already squatting, smoking and stumbling along the structure.

“We're Vietnamese, so we can cross over the bridge. [Foreigners] need a visa” Up on the forested mountain behind the city, a couple, Van and Hoa, live with their 10 dogs, vegetable patches and youngest son. Van was born here and the land has been in his family for generations — except for a 12-year period where security considerations forced them to relocate to Yen Bai. Van, like most residents, has seen the city change. Originally built on the confluence of the rivers, the municipality has now been moved back closer to the train station on one side and Coc Leu over the river.

Much of Coc Leu — with its highways and multi-storey buildings — is new, as is what could be the most impressive mural in Vietnam. The piece is the equivalent of Vietnam's Guernica and charts everything from the roots of the country through to recent conflicts and even the arrival of backpackers.

Back in town, the madness of tourism has taken hold. With Sapa and Bac Ha — the location of the Sunday, ethnic market — so close by, Lao Cai has become a magnet for those going to and from the places of interest. The train station serves as the city’s hub, where hotels, restaurants and small businesses have sprung in recent years. Le Bordeaux sits on one corner, selling western and, possibly, French fare including the ubiquitous “buger”. Further on the Emotion chain is at work. They now have an Emotion hotel, and Emotion cafe and, by the looks of it, even an Emotion spa.

How many tourists actually make it beyond the confines of the station car park is a mystery. Most get off the trains, pass through the mixed Soviet-style Vietnamese architecture of the station, and then head up to the hills. They miss the history here. The township served as the region’s French administrative centre and hosted a military garrison during colonial rule. 25,000 Vietnamese died building a railway connecting Lao Cai to Hanoi. However, this incarnation of the city is no longer visible. When the Chinese invaded in 1979, Lao Cai was flattened — the colonial villas demolished and replaced by the ubiquitous concrete tube houses seen today.

DIARY ENTRY #1 Lao Cai seems best suited to dim lighting. Those early and late hours when the sun is more forgiving. We stay through noon and it’s a different place in the harshness of day. A sad place. Destined to stay always in the in between. It looks painted in grey. Tourists shuffle off the trains directly up the mountain to Sapa. We head south.

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ROAD AND RIVER WORDS BY NICK ROSS

A

s the Red River flows south, major roads parallel the banks. One such thoroughfare is Highway 4E. Out of Lao Cai the road is initially a six-lane highway, but further on it returns to its two-lane, badly surfaced winding roots. Dusty at points, the road also has the railway for company, and on two occasions it crosses the Red River, sharing the bridge with trains.

The full range of countryside inhabitants can be seen along the way. From officials manning bridges, labourers and ethnic minority women clad in traditional dress, to farmers, women selling goods out of their shanty-like tap hoa and men, drunk from the wedding season, puttering around on bikes.

Here in the far north, the river acts as the lifeblood to many living along its banks. Boats appear everywhere, not in the abundance that you may find them in the Mekong Delta, but with enough regularity to realise that people are making a living from this great waterway. At one spot just past Pho Lu and before the river narrows, it opens into a

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wide plain. Crops of all types are supported along the endless banks and the road provides a vantage point from which to watch life, lived by generation after generation of rural folk, trundle on by.

Further on as Highway 4E merges into Highway 70, the winding road leaves Song Hong behind as it meanders its way through valleys, plains and forests. It's wood processing season and makeshift workshops along the road are stripping bark off logs to make paper.

The industry envelops the whole area. Sheets of bark are left out to dry.

At the southernmost part of Lao Cai province, the river returns alongside the road — but this time as a smaller tributary. At points, the road follows its path, elsewhere it runs its own course, until a metal footbridge across the river appears from out of nowhere. A group of men and teenage boys lead buffalo pulling log carts across the bridge.

With the slats and lack of rigidity of the crossing, the going is arduous and slow, and at points, with the weight, you wonder if the bridge will crumple in its middle and collapse.

The scenery transforms heading into Yen Bai Province. The dusty, border town feel of Lao Cai is replaced by the thatched wooden dwellings of the ethnic minorities. Populated mainly by the Dao

“The garb of the Dao women is striking — the head dresses, handmade sarongs, all dyed in a multitude of bright colours”

— both white and red — the whole community here is supported by subsistence agriculture. The poverty is apparent. The garb of the Dao women is striking; the headdresses, handmade sarongs, all dyed in a multitude of bright colours. One, with her toothy smile, speaks virtually no Vietnamese. The second, carrying a one-year-old baby boy on her back, can converse more fluently. But even then there is a lack of engagement with the Kinh culture. The Dao, like so many of their mountain-dwelling brethren, seem to live in their own worlds.

Back along the main river, the road enters the vast space occupied by the city of Yen Bai. Only one bridge crosses this vast waterway, and it is a small one. There are no boats. Life, it seems, has deserted this section of the river. Even the houses backing onto the water are just that, and except for one hotel with its rooms and cafe overlooking the body, not one business seems to take advantage of the views.

According to one Yen Bai resident, there used to be many more boats here. But due to upstream damming, he says, the current is slow and the water levels are variable. Now everyone uses the roads as a means of transport.

DIARY ENTRY #2 There’s this inevitable, Sisyphean struggle for people living in small towns in rural Vietnam. Here’s this river that created and fed these communities and now it feels like it’s left them behind. Everyone we speak to repeats the same refrain: “We’re so poor. Why do you want to be here? This area is so poor...” I walk around and watch farmers tend their fields along the banks of the water — a never-ending cycle. The rock will always end up back at the bottom of the mountain.

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DIARY ENTRY #3 Yen Bai wants to kill us. I’m in the hospital watching a doctor stitch Nick’s head back together after a lorry sped onto the highway forcing him to crash his bike along the dust and gravel. I watched it happen, and it should have been much worse. He keeps asking what happened, and then saying, “I’m a lucky f***er, aren’t I?” Yes.

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DIARY ENTRY #4 We’re on the train from Yen Bai back to Hanoi, via Phu Tho. The landscape is unfolding through the gated windows like a slow-moving picture. The Red River. Rice fields.

Roads. Stations. Emptiness. When night falls everything outside turns black. It’s peaceful outside of the city.

A loud kind of quiet. The wheels and steel clanging against the tracks. A strange kind of industrial lullaby.

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THROUGH THE CAPITAL WORDS BY DEBBIE CLARE

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he Red River — also Mother River — ploughs through its ancient path like a never-ending steam train. Hanoi, or ‘the city between rivers’, where we live, work and play, would never have come to see such growing prosperity had the river taken another route.

In 1010, Emperor Ly Thai To moved the capital from the delta in Ninh Binh Province to Hanoi, which was then called Dai La and eventually Thang Long, having realised the area’s potential for transport, commerce and urban development. With ground rich in silt, clay and sand, the plains around the Red River offer exceptional farming conditions that have enabled food production on a large scale for over a thousand years.

With an artery as vast and powerful as the Red River, its sheer weight and volume brings variables that us mere humans struggle to tame. Due to soil erosion, in some areas entire communities have been forced to abandon their crumbling foundations in favour of land further away from the banks. This brings its own problems as residential areas are then created on land that has little or no flood defence systems.

Nguyen Van Trong, 69, is the elected leader of a community of 23 stilted households, which sit above water on a small area toward the northern tip of the Long Bien Island, or Middle Warp. The houses are made of wood, bamboo and plastic, and have been built to sustain the elements throughout the seasons.

“This area used to flood every summer, and we dealt with it by moving the houses further inland, and by placing boxes under them for support, but since the power station was built in Hoa Binh the flooding has stopped,” says Trong.

When questioned about his view on soil erosion causing communities to be displaced, Trong rubs his arms gently.

“It’s nature,” he says. “You can’t fight it, you can’t love it or hate it, it just is, and we have to accept it.”

Trong’s community has lived on the island for 20 years, citing the high cost of property rental inland as the reason for their way of life.

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“We don’t have to pay a fee to live on water,” he explains.

“So we help each other to build and maintain our houses, and we make money by collecting paper and selling it at Long Bien Market.”

Stone Collectors Le Van Hien, 37, and Le Vien Bang, 31, are the managers of a large metal boat, which is loaded with stones and moored up on the Long Bien side of the waterway.

Through the porthole behind Hien, a backdrop of the city hangs above the dramatic breadth of the river, complete with the Keangnam building and Long Bien Bridge in the frame.

“Life here is peaceful, we’re away from pollution and noise, and even in the summer the air above the water is cooler than it is in the city,” says Hien.

The pair’s journey involves picking up and delivering stone and sand between Viet Tri and Thai Binh Province.

With the round trip taking over three days to complete, the men spend just two days a month with their families — the rest of their time is spent on the river.

“We’ve been doing this job for over 20 years, and it hasn’t changed a lot in that time,” explains Hien. “Although we have seen a lot of bridges get built. Our job facilitates the development taking place in the city.”

The challenges the men face with their job on the river is also down to nature; the river is shallow in parts, and before now, boats have become stuck. This has been remedied with the removal of black sand, creating passageways for boats.

But where the sand has been removed without consultation, it has caused erosion, which damages buildings close to the river, and in some cases causes collapse.

“We’ve had to rebuild everything; we had no choice but to move. The land was becoming unstable and unsafe, so we moved here and are trying to rebuild,” says a farmer on the banks of the Song Duong tributary, which has a gentler flow than that of its master and is less brutal to its surroundings.

She recalls how she was forced to move from the banks of the Red River after her house began to collapse.

Hidden behind the kumquat orchards off Nghi Tam, a cluster of houseboats are moored along the edge of the narrower part of the river. Parts of it are dried up, and cats and dogs play on the sand, which is littered with clothes, plastic bags and pottery. The water here is seemingly stagnant; the tide is low and in stark contrast to the colouring of the main river — green and murky and almost entirely still.

“When the river is low I find it easier to catch fish, because the stream isn’t as powerful as the main river,” explains a keen fisherman, who is stepping eagerly into his tiny, metal dingy with a large net. His wife walks confidently across the narrow plank linking the boat to the land and shouts back her concerns about the future.

“They’re building another bridge here soon, so we’ll have to move our homes and our business.”

The family walks territorially up and down the boat, eyeing its master expectantly as he hurls his catch onto land.

With rainwater used for washing clothes, and food being available on nearby land and in the water, it’s a simple but varying existence here — somehow enviable from the perspective of the bustling, polluted city.

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DELTA BOUND WORDS BY IAN PAYNTON

N

am Dinh — the alleged birthplace of pho and a city not so disparate from Hanoi. It sits in a bend of the Red River and has a statue guarding its central lake. And like the capital, the city suffered heavily in the wake of American bombing. But as Hanoi now charges forward, Nam Dinh further down river is somewhat sleepy.

Joggers exercise on the riverbank of Au Co Street to the soundtrack of chugging boats on the Song Dao tributary, which separates from the Red River a few kilometres north of the city. On the other side, in what is Nam Dinh’s equivalent of Gia Lam, girls wash clothes in knee-deep water at Do Bai Village. The thousandstrong community of families has lived on the riverbank their whole lives.

“Life has always been unstable here, ever since my parents were living on the boats,” says one resident from inside her riverside house that she says flooded regularly when she was a child but hasn’t done so since 1996. She points to damp stains halfway up the wall in her bedroom that mark the high water levels of the past.

The small, riverside village, which locals say is under threat from plans for development, is a single concrete path on the riverbank with small, boxed houses on either side. All doors are open in what feels like a community even more tightly knit than the average Old Quarter neighbourhood. Waste lingers on the water’s edge and a plastics mound is never far away.

One house, with crab baskets hanging across the ceiling, has a small metal boat docked outside. It belongs to a 60-year-old fisherwoman who has worked this tributary for 50 years. She starts at 4am everyday and sells her catfish and crab to the local villagers, making VND100,000 on a catch of 3kg.

“It’s much harder to catch fish now because the river doesn’t flood anymore. Perhaps because of activities up stream,” adds another resident, who never went to school and is illiterate — something others around her say is common among the inhabitants of this half-forgotten hamlet in the heart of this provincial city.

DIARY ENTRY #6 I was built for warm weather, but right now I find myself driving a Honda Dream through the heavy rain down Highway 1A to Nam Dinh Province. It’s freezing cold and we are heading toward what I’m sure won’t be a very welcoming motel room. We almost turned around 40km ago, but we’d come halfway already. I’m not sure we made the right choice. My shoes are soaked through, my fingers frozen, my glasses fogged and smeared. It’s probably not even that cold. I’m just a big baby. And baby needs his blanket.

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WIDE OPEN WORDS BY IAN PAYNTON

he Red River finally loses momentum 50km east of Nam Dinh and 1,149km from its source in Yunnan. It deposits its remaining sediment in the river mouth and empties itself into the Gulf of Tonkin as the daily grind goes on around it. The sheer amount of dark, fertile, silt — which originally gave the river its name — means that life here really does revolve around the Song Hong. Possibly more so than anywhere else on the river’s winding journey through north Vietnam.

Paddy fields stretch for as far as the eye can see. The rich, red soil of the flat plains flood on either side of the road leading to the river mouth. Houses have ponds with ducks, water cabbage and lotus plants in the front garden, and shrimp farms at the back. On one of the delta’s canals, giant nets hang over the water, ready for the next fishing shift. More than 1,000 stilt huts pepper a spit of land made by the river’s sediment, which becomes flooded with the movement of the tide. When it’s in, fishermen get to work; when it’s out, it’s a race against time for the area’s clam pickers.

“We have four to five hours every day to pick clams, depending on the tide, and sometimes we work at night,” says Do Thi Dao, 47, who sits with eight co-workers in the sharp winds with little protection from the cold. They wait for a boat to take them to a neighbouring village where a large export company has left clams buried in the silt.

“Once, we had the clams to ourselves and could pick wherever we chose, but now we have to pay for the right to pick clams that large companies don’t want,” says Dao, who can collect up to 70kg per shift to sell to locals and larger dealers from Hanoi. She says that after paying a picking fee, she can earn up to VND1million a month working on the periphery of Xuan Thuy National Park — an “eco tourism” reserve on the mouth of the Red River.

The 7000ha mangrove forest was the first Ramsar site in Southeast Asia, which makes it recognised as ‘a wetland of international importance’. And while it supports the livelihood of 45,000 people over five communes, and is an integral stopover for 219 species of migrating birds, Dao says that outside of clam picking, farming and fishing, there are few jobs available. Her three children have all moved out of the Red River mouth to find more profitable work elsewhere — in central Vietnam’s booming construction industry.

This isn’t the case among all families here. Down in the sediment, fisherwoman Pham Thi Hong, 60, works with her

daughter to unravel the night’s bounty. The small, dead mai fish trampoline into the air as mother and daughter bang the net to loosen the catch. They started their day’s work at 1.30am and after 12 hours of fishing 15km out in the Gulf of Tonkin, they will spend the next four hours, barefooted in cold sand, separating and cleaning the fish before selling to exporters.

“We’ve only caught about a 100kg today but with different nets on different days we can come back with tonnes,” says Hong, adding that competition is high. “There’s about 200 boats here that all fish the same area.”

Peace of Improvement The delta province of Nam Dinh is home to a large Catholic community accounting for approximately 20 percent of the population. Imposing churches scatter the rice plains of the Red River.

The largest church in Xuan Thuy National Park, six-yearold Sa Nam, resembles Phat Diem church in Ninh Binh Province, which was completed in 1898 with a stark mix of European and Asian architectural characteristics; gothic church meets Sino-Vietnamese temple.

“When the French came to Vietnam by ship, they built churches along the coast and up the Red River as a way to spread Christianity,” says Dac Kim Tuan, a Buddhist monk living in a temple in Giao Thien Village. “There are 10 churches in the area and one Buddhist temple, which is this one. There are no other monks or novices.”

Tuan insists he prefers the quiet life as a Buddhist in the river mouth compared to his time spent training in the capital.

“The peace and the water here means that more efficient energy can be gathered quicker,” he explains, referring to his khi. “Novices have to spend time in peaceful places like this if they are to have enough energy to study or teach in the city.”

The 30-year-old monk says he has witnessed changes to the area since his days growing up amid the Red River’s final moments. Financially, he says, people seem to be having a better life, but environmentally, the water quality is worse — more pollution and increased salinity in the smaller waterways is a concern for farming and human health.

In 2010, education programs were rolled out in the region’s high schools to teach students the importance of this unique ecosystem. Tuan conducted summer camps for children at the temple. Despite the cold, his round face and calm smile radiate when he talks about passing down his knowledge to the youth of Xuan Thuy. “I teach children all about life, behaving well and being good to our environment,” he says.

DIARY ENTRY #7 Xuan Thuy. The end. We’re bracing ourselves against a heavy wind looking out over marsh and swamp and fishing boats toward a blue-grey horizon that’s nothing but water beyond what we can see. This is the mouth of the Red River Delta. I want someone to shake my hand and hand me a glass of champagne and tell me I’ve made it. I want this to be more of an accomplishment than it really is. But it’s just life here. Every day. And it will keep on after we’re gone. I’m just this small glitch, clad in rain and smiles and chattering teeth. Life goes on without me.

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DESTINATION

The Other Hong Kong One resident of the former British colony only a few hours away from Hanoi says avoid tourist honey pots to see a different side to this eclectic, vertical city. Words and photos by Liz Moskowitz

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hen looking at a world map, Hong Kong is usually represented by a tiny dot, or sometimes nothing at all.

Other, larger, countries in Southeast Asia may seem like more worthy destinations to the unknowing traveller, but maps, as we all know, don’t always accurately represent reality.

What Hong Kong may be lacking in size, it makes up for in originality. After 156 years under British colonial rule, Hong Kong is currently a special administrative region (SAR) to China; its dichotomous past has led to an eclectic present. The melding of Chinese customs and British intervention created a physical and cultural landscape that is distinctly Hong Kong, and can be seen nowhere else in the world, east or west.

Do all the things that you might otherwise miss as you rush to Victoria Peak or follow the crowds to Disneyland. As much as you can, stay outside and pay close attention, not only to speeding traffic, but also to the various anomalies you stumble across. Take time to wander different neighbourhoods and observe and participate in their quirks.

Trust me, it will add a satisfying sense of adventure to your trip, and provide a story or two for you to bring home with your souvenirs.

Architecture

SKY HIGH A view of a housing estate from the rooftop of the Hong Kong Design Institute in Tiu Keng Leng

With over seven million people living in an area only a third the size of Rhode Island, the US’s smallest state, Hong Kong has become the most vertical city in the world. The skyline along the coast of Victoria Harbour is rightfully one of Hong Kong’s major tourist attractions — even more so when lit up like an old-school arcade game in the evenings. Equally as fascinating are the housing estates that come in an array of pastel colors and include high-rises so tall and narrow they appear to be two-dimensional. One notable example is the Kin Ming Estate in Tseung Kwan O that houses over 22,000 people, but you can find housing estates, private or public, in every district of Hong Kong.

Take your time admiring these Lego giants while imagining how long you would have to wait for the elevator to your apartment on the 70th floor. Whether looking at them from the street, a double-decker bus, or a rooftop, it is easy to imagine you’ve stepped into a futuristic city where people live in tiny apartments in the sky. To add to the housing estates’ sci-fi vibe, curtains the colour of hospital scrubs can sometimes be seen adorning each and every window of a building; the fast-paced lifestyle of Hong Kong must leave little time for buying new curtains.

January 2012 The Word | 51

Yuen Po Street Bird Garden If Hong Kong were a suitor, a bird would be its prospective bride. Old men walk their songbirds in cages on sunny afternoons, and flamingoes dot the ponds of Kowloon Park. If you are looking for birds in large quantities, you won’t have to look far to locate an aviary. In most of Hong Kong’s parks you can find sanctuaries devoted to housing an assortment of bird species. The aviaries can sometimes be disappointing though, since the birds are either nowhere to be seen, or hidden behind netting and bars that are both dizzying and depressing to look through. For a more upclose bird experience, visit the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden in Kowloon. As you wind through this small but packed market, you will cross paths with escaped grasshoppers the size of mice and hyper birds performing back-flips in cramped cages.

Many people also bring their pets here for the opportunity to get some fresh air and to perform for an eager audience.

Perched atop a shoulder, nibbling on an ear or hanging on a finger, the birds obviously have very special relationships with their owners. Usually, neither will mind if you want to take a photo, or daringly hold the bird yourself. After you get your feathered fix, Flower Market Road is right next door, and a great way to replace the smell of birds with more pleasant aromas.

Domestic Workers on Sundays

Outdoor Markets and Kitchens Food is an integral part of public life in Hong Kong, and restaurants, bakeries and street food vendors are busy at all hours of the day. People are often munching on things that look either delicious or debatable, and what you think you ordered off the menu might not always be what you get. Dim sum and hot pot are two reliably tasty dishes, while other food options may only be for the strongstomached. Everyone should at least get a good look at the array of ingredients Hong Kong offers, and outdoor markets are the place to do so while giving your senses an intense workout. In Sham Shui Po, you can watch as rainbow scales fly from a fishmonger’s catch, while a butcher chops and wraps up a savoury roasted duck in three swift moves.

Bins containing hundreds of different types of dried fish, herbs and vegetables spill out of storefronts and exude an aroma best experienced and not described. Pieces of raw, red meat hang from outdoor stalls, while fresh fruit and vegetables are sold across the street.

Blinding fluorescents spotlight tofu and egg vendors, and shoppers can be seen carrying their purchases home in small red plastic bags as taxis honk at them to get out of the street.

The best time to go is during the after-work, before-dinner rush, when there is an electric feel in the air that is both exhilarating and disembodying.

Outdoor kitchens are also set-up during this time, and tables, chairs and a kitchen are quickly assembled on side streets to accommodate evening diners. Outdoor kitchens are like found objects, and can be discovered by pursuers in a small village in the New Territories or around the corner from upscale department stores in Central. The cook often uses several enormous woks to prepare meals for patrons, and dishes are scrubbed with hot water in large tubs on the ground. Plumes of steam rise from the cooking food, and bare bulbs dimly light the kitchen; the scene brings to mind sultry detective films from the 1940s. In addition to the outdoor kitchens’ striking atmosphere, the food is often delicious and always cheap. And the best part? It’s Hong Kong, so they’ll probably have an English menu.

"Kowloon Park and Victoria Park are some of the best places to see women in matching sweat suits performing in hip hop competitions or eating brightly coloured meals that look like edible art"

Though 95 percent of Hong Kong’s population is Han Chinese, its minority groups have a strong and significant presence. One such group are the female domestic workers from Indonesia and The Philippines. Their one day-off from work is Sunday, and since they live with their employers, they don’t have homes of their own to relax in. As a result, thousands of them congregate outdoors, create shelters using cardboard, tarps and blankets and spend the day catching up with friends and family they haven’t seen all week.

Kowloon Park and Victoria Park are some of the best places to see women in matching sweat suits performing in hip hop competitions or eating brightly coloured meals that look like edible art.

Some of the domestic workers are Muslim, and in quiet areas of the parks, you can hear their music as they pray in beautifully designed headscarves.

Don’t worry about casually walking by and respectfully observing different groups’ rituals; the women are accustomed to having their Sunday lives on public display. Surprisingly, the authorities

52 | The Word January 2012

not only allow the women to takeover large areas of space, but also block off entire streets for them.

Though the women must not always enjoy their free time sitting on the concrete ground, at least they have a designated area to do so.

HIDDEN HONG KONG Clockwise from Top Left: A cage full of brightly coloured birds at the Yuen Po Street Garden in Prince Edward, A fishmonger couple prepares and sells fish in an outdoor wet market in Prince Edward, A cook in an outdoor kitchen in Central looks out from his work area, Two women in matching outfits enjoy their day-off together in Victoria Park

January 2012 The Word | 53

FASHION

Ethnically Urban Kaitlin Rees speaks to key players in the story of how ethnic prints travel from Vietnam’s mountains to urban fashion centres worldwide.

Photo by Aaron Joel Santos “ETHNIC IS IN,” a phrase that my friends in New York started saying two summers ago, became a kind of joke because what does it actually mean?

The statement has since taken on more depth for me, with a somewhat closer approximation of what ethnic looks and feels like in northern Vietnam.

Handmade fabrics from ethnic minority villages have been tourism classics since Vietnam started accepting visitors in the 1990s. Colourful scarves, jewellery, handbags and wooden instruments that will probably never be played are the traditional items that tourists traditionally buy when visiting traditional minority villages. Tourism has become a significant source of income in some of Vietnam’s rural areas.

For the past ten years, Dirk Salewski and his wife have travelled to ethnic minority villages to select fabrics for their handicraft store, Mystere, on Saigon’s trendy Dong Khoi Street. They travel every other month to different areas in Vietnam searching for new products for their store. For the past three years, their most regular destination has been the northeastern province of Cao Bang — home to the Tay, Muong, Dao, Hmong, San Thi and Lolo ethnic minority groups. After hours of driving on paved and unpaved roads, then hiking up mountain passages, the pair looks for pieces that will attract customers back in Ho Chi Minh City. They always keep the tastes of the market in mind.

“It is not so easy because many tribes make products that customers are not going for,” they say. “Some of the very traditional things that are made cannot be sold.”

This wear-ability question is a familiar one to others who support the minority women weavers by introducing their textiles abroad. How do you take products from a small ethnic minority village and translate them to an urban setting without winding up in the land of clichéd and kitsch?

Prints The World Over French-Vietnamese designer Linda Mai Phung uses her trained eyes for fashion to negotiate this tricky terrain. She is aware that when her clothing line hits the streets of France, Italy or Belgium, people are weary of looking too “crazy,” even if it’s simply a colourful Hmong belt on a black skirt. Her compromise is a blend.

“I try to modernise the ethnic style,” she says. “At the last show in Paris, people thought I was going to sell skirts [straight from the village]… or traditional outfits that are very colourful and un-wearable in the streets.”

The show in Paris to which Linda refers is the annual Ethical Fashion Show.

Not to be confused with ethnic fashion, ethical fashion means all clothing is well sourced. Linda works with recycled materials left over from factories and brings prints from small mountain villages in Vietnam to Paris, infusing

54 | The Word January 2012

ethically sourced materials with ethnic designs. Like Dirk, she has done her share of travelling and is familiar with Hmong and Dao styles in Lao Cai and Bac Ha, and the Bana and Cham from the central region.

Promoting Vietnamese-made products in a global market and giving work to women who otherwise may not have any is what motivates Linda, who remains balanced about what she is doing.

“I’m not saying I’m saving the world, but I’m trying to live my passion and keep it in line with my values,” she explains.

Weaving a Story

“After the changes increased sales, Huong says that the people in the village also started to like the better quality material and the new line of colours”

In life, the story is what makes the difference. And from the growing and cultivating of their own cotton, to the hand weaving and dyeing, from the batik painting to the individual embroidery of traditional motifs, even an occasional pleat on a skirt, the history of a single piece of ethnic fabric is rich. For Dirk, the power of this story keeps business moving, with tourists making up the majority of his customers in Saigon.

“If it’s handmade and you tell the customer, they will accept [the strong smell of indigo or the fact that it cannot be easily washed].”

For Linda, her customers in Europe seem more concerned with the ‘does this look nice on me’ question.

“The customers can know the story but it’s hard for them to imagine it.

People come [to ethical fashion shows] because they are interested in the cause, but then get seduced by the style. Very few people are attracted to the story. Of course, when I explain it, it’s better.”

To trace the journey of ethnic clothes back even further involves talking to Mrs. Huong of a local Cao Bang NGO called Decen. Since December 2010, the organisation has been developing the handicraft sector in remote areas of the province. Huong works with village women who produce fabrics and helps them to generate an income through sales in bigger cities domestically and internationally. Even for Huong, who works in close proximity to the weavers, the story of the process is complicated.

“We cannot tell how many days or hours the women spend making their products. They start planting hemp in March and then after tending to the crops, there are at least 14 steps to get the finished hand-woven material, which is usually ready to be sold in December.”

Before her NGO's involvement, Huong says that handicrafts generated very little income for the people of remote areas.

“If there is no income, they have to give up the activity and this part of the culture disappears. We try to keep the traditional culture alive and help people understand the value of their work.”

As Dirk and Linda are both aware, the preservation of culture demands some negotiation. Huong reveals that after her project began involving local weavers, the fabrics themselves had to be slightly changed.

“The main target-clients in big cities [mostly in Japan and western markets] don't like synthetic material and don't like the overly bright prints. We introduced colours that are still warm, but not so bright and colourful.” After the changes increased sales, Huong says that the people in the village also started to like the better quality material and the new line of colours.

Customer Connection From the practiced hands of women in distant mountain villages to peaking out from beneath the black leather jackets of Hanoi, the end of the fabric's journey is not difficult to spot if you're looking.

Seen manoeuvering along Tong Duy Tan’s bumpy brick, a pair of stylish turquoise flats sport an ethnic flair at the toe. When asked about her shoes, the wearer thoughtfully reveals, “I like the idea of having something connected to a place where I am a visitor, but it being something that can be incorporated into my life in a way that’s not just me completely adopting something different”.

Another city dweller wearing a denim vest with lapels infused with Sapastyle embroidery describes the appeal of the blend.

“I saw this and thought I could wear it without being totally symbolic of something different; it's part me and my style.”

Some may argue that combining fashion from around the world causes cultural confusion and dilution. Others may argue that it educates the public and supports people in remote areas. And some may cherish the story of how it came to be, or the simplicity of something handmade. Maybe it’s just because the colours are beautiful. Maybe it’s because Glamour magazine told us to.

Whatever the reason, it's pretty “in” right now.

January 2012 The Word | 55

56 | The Word January 2012

OUT & ABOUT

Veggies a Plenty Hanoi is more vegetarian-friendly than it may appear. You just have to know where to look, says Karryn Miller. Photo by Dominic Blewett

T

ake a look through your average menu in Vietnam and you’ll find it’s not exactly light on the meat and fish.

Even the “vegetable” section usually includes dishes doused in the country’s favourite sauce, nuoc mam. But there is still hope for the herbivores among us. Hanoi has a number of Vietnamese restaurants, from street side to high end, catering to people who prefer foods without a face. And as Do Thi Thuy from White Cloud points out, “There are more kinds of plants to eat than there are types of animals,” so going meat-free doesn’t mean you’ll miss out on variety. Nor does it mean that you’ll miss out on Vietnamese cuisine — you just need to be wise with where you choose to dine.

Tamarind Cafe 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem www.tamarind-cafe.com Tamarind is one of the only 100 percent vegetarian joints in the city that isn’t heavy on mock meat dishes. Instead the menu includes a mix of food from around Asia such as Thai green curry, pho and sushi, as well as a few of their own inventions like mashed sweet potato with peanut butter. Main dishes average around VND140,000. Add a fresh fruit juice and you’re looking at VND200,000 per head.

Com Chay Ha Thanh

PHOTO BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

116 Ngo 166 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh (Turn off Kim Ma at the green Duc Hollywood shop and go in 25 yards and make a left, and it's another 25 yards on the right) www.comchayhathanh.com This no-frills joint can be a little hard to find. But if you can navigate the back alleys correctly you’ll end up at a relatively quiet spot with inexpensive Vietnamese vegetarian

food. Be careful what you order here, as a lot of the dishes are heavy on fake this or fake that (gluten-based snail, anyone?). If you want to try a delicious veggie take on a Hanoi specialty order the bun cha — chargrilled “pork” with fresh herbs and vermicelli noodles, with a citrusy soy dipping sauce.

White Cloud 2 Ngo, 12 Dang Thai Mai, Xuan Dieu Do Thi Thuy (along with two business partners) opened White Cloud two years ago to share vegan food — no animal products pass through their door — and to support both full and part-time vegetarians by providing nutritious, balanced and mostly organic meals. The com xuat (set menu) of soup, rice, and a sampling of four dishes is usually the best choice. Service here is friendly but can be slow.

Com Chay Nang Tam 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hai Ba Trung This cheap, cozy, Buddhist vegetarian spot is in an alley off Tran Hung Dao. There’s one main dining area along with a small room off to the side. On the first and 15th days of the lunar month, when Buddhists are forbidden to eat certain types of meat, the place swells with patrons — tables are even set up outside to meet demand. The menu is similar to what you’ll find at Hanoi’s other Buddhist restaurants: mock meats, tofu, sautéed greens and stir-fried noodles.

Veg-Friendly Animal lovers in Hanoi aren’t confined to strictly vegetarian hangouts. The city’s top Indian restaurants Khazaana (1C Tong Dan), Namaste Hanoi (47 Lo Su) and Foodshop 45 (59 Truc Bach) are always reliable for meat-free options. Staples like The Hanoi

Social Club (6 Hoi Vu), Southgate and Puku (both on Tong Duy Tan) all have a bit more atmosphere than the 100 percent vegetarian spots, and the black bean, rice and grilled veggie burritos from Vine’s Mexican menu (1A & 7 Xuan Dieu) are hefty — they will silence anyone who says that meat-free food doesn’t fill them up. The capital’s Italian restaurants such as Pane e Vino (3 Nguyen Khac Can) are also safe bets for tasty vegetarian options.

Upscale Vegetarian La Verticale (19 Ngo Van So), a FrenchVietnamese fusion restaurant housed in a traditional villa, has a “Garden Day” set menu for its vegetarian clientele. The course doesn’t come cheap (VND693,000++) but it’s well worth the splurge. It includes a half-dozen dishes but a highlight is the flavoursome soup, with big chunks of fresh artichoke hearts and crispy rice crackers stuffed with herbs to scoop it up. Finish things off with a selection of drool-inducing desserts like homemade lemongrass ice cream perched on top of passion fruit cake and surrounded with fresh tropical fruit.

Another of Hanoi’s French-Vietnamese restaurants, Green Tangerine (48 Hang Be), features a handful of vegetarian options such as eggplant stuffed with ratatouille.

Street Food Street food options are pretty slim.

However, there are a few choices if you’re determined to dine street side. Look out for banh my trung (fried egg baguette), my xao rau (fried noodles and vegetables) without fish sauce, or bun dau — bite-sized pieces of fried tofu, noodles and herbs, but be sure to pass on the fishy mam tom sauce that usually comes with it.

MORE PURE VEGGIE OPTIONS Com Chay Khai Tuong 289 Kim Ma

Com Chay Kim Cuong 96 Xuan Dieu

Com Chay Kim Cuong II 19 Phan Boi Chau

Phat Truong Tho 184bis Xuan Dieu

January 2012 The Word | 57

MYSTERY DINER

Com Viet With a handful of historically themed eateries salted throughout the capital, our anonymous reviewer seeks to separate substance from nostalgia in anticipation of Tet. Photos by Dominic Blewett

O

nce a hoary go-to on the eastern edge of the Old Quarter, Com Viet recently upped sticks and transported itself to the more secluded Truc Bach retreat of Pham Hong Thai — old now meets new as it sits at the base of the EVN Tower.

In its previous incarnation, Com Viet was among half a dozen Hanoian restaurants that seemed a perennial stopover for bemused tourists searching for the authentic Vietnamese dining experience. Along with Le Tonkin on Ngo Van So, Brother’s Café on Nguyen Thai Hoc, Au Lac House on Tran Hung Dao and probably a bevy of other dining establishments, Com Viet made, and continues to make, great play over its nostalgia dripped décor. It has transplanted its entire collection of burnished brasses, old telephones, regal bronze birds, aged dining chairs and inlaid mother-of-pearl trays to its new location — transforming a run-of-the-mill, alley-hid house into a virtual museum with the addition of what looks like a former mandarin’s country house plonked onto the top floor terrace. The waitress says that they’ve spent three years reinstalling the traditional northern Vietnamese house in its new location. And it’s true, patience is a virtue.

After traversing the weirdly gaudy, glass bridge under-lit by green neon lighting — perhaps the establishment’s only major interior design faux pas — we were warmly welcomed by members of staff who seemed to appear from various antechambers, smaller dining rooms and the kitchen.

The duty manager seemed a little overly officious when asking whether we had a reservation at 9pm on a freezing Monday night when most of Hanoi had better ideas and remained indoors.

Once settled into the upstairs mandarin hall dining area, we were promptly offered drink menus. The staff was on the slightly fussy side of the dining experience and I sometimes wonder whether this is a cultural difference that must be accepted, no matter how long I stay here. With such surroundings there seems to be a general belief among restaurant owners and perhaps anticipation on behalf of the

58 | The Word January 2012

customers that we need to be mothered. So I found myself squirming in my chair as the waitress unfolded my napkin and spread it open on my lap.

I’m suspicious of being recommended dishes by waiting staff ever since I read Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential, which defined a day’s special and the buffet as stuff the kitchen are desperately wanting to get rid of as it’s on the turn.

Thankfully, on this occasion the morning glory salad was light, tasty, slightly acrid from the astringent greens, combined with the crunch of peanut and the culinary treasure hunt for the nubs of grilled granular beef (VND80,000). The chicken rolls with Pandan leaves were an interesting contrast — sweet, orangehued marinated chicken semi-wrapped by desiccated greens, which added a crisp twist and a sweet and sour palate tingle (VND95,000). The mixed seafood fried rice was passable, with a generous serving that could feed four at a push (VND75,000).

Other items worth trying are the blood oyster salad for a mouth wateringly, iodinefresh kick start to the meal (VND95,000) and the golden-crusted, egg-salted tofu (VND55,000). I wasn’t so taken by the dried out five-spiced beef, which I thought lacked value for money, and more importantly juiciness (VND120,000) but the presentation and freshness of the shrimp certainly made up for it. The crunchy pickled vegetables that we originally thought were complimentary, later turned up on the menu for a mean VND20,000. This kind of topping up of a bill with unasked for items is something you wouldn’t expect in such a grand restaurant.

Finally, for a restaurant with such dynastic pretensions, and a space with instruments for live traditional music in the courtyard, there isn’t much of an excuse to be playing ABBA cover-versions done on the pan-pipes at high volume during dinner service. Better stick to that classy ambience by a playlist consisting of classical and Vietnamese traditional music. I’m sure the house’s ancestral owners would be much more appreciative.

COM VIET 63 Pham Hong Thai, Ba Dinh Tel: 0904 858208

THE VERDICT OUT OF 15 Food: 9

Decor: 13

Service: 10

The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

T

he dead of night may be the only time a person can actually find peace and quiet in a city like Hanoi. The cacophony and constant chaos of the traffic finally begins to cease.

But just as I am about to slip into slumber, a curious voice emanates from some distant megaphone to break the silence with its call, “banh bao day, bao nong day”.

As I listen intently to the persistent cry of this prerecorded message, edging ever closer and louder, I can no longer fight the craving. Winter chill be damned! I scramble out the door in just a light jacket and shorts, and, like a hungry bloodhound hot on the trail of a fresh scent, I track down the source of the racket.

I’m greeted by what could barely be called a working bicycle, welded and fused together to fit several large pots leaking steam. I watch as a lowly old man navigates this weatherbeaten apparatus. The whole contraption seems so disproportionate. I’m sure that if the old man weighed any less, the entire thing would flip up as if he were on the lighter end of a seesaw.

Inside his rickety mobile steamer sits of one of Vietnam’s oldest and most famous snacks.

A subtly sweet and succulent white steamed bun injected with a savory filling of seasoned ground pork, shiitake mushrooms and a quail egg. I buy one of the fist-sized treasures for VND6,000 and hold it delicately in my hands, breathing in the warm steam that radiates from the bun as it makes contact with the cold December air. After taking a bite, I inquire of the old man, whose name is Ong Hung, whether he has made these himself to sell at this ridiculous hour. “Khong,” he

STREET SNACKER

years ago. But it seems that most Asian countries have their own version of this delectable treat. Thailand has the salapoa and China has the cha siu bao, which looks practically identical but is filled with sweet, red barbeque-pork instead. I thank Ong Hung for his time and buy a third for the walk home.

If your cravings for banh bao become too intense for you to wait for the randomness of a midnight bicycle encounter, head to 59 Luong Ngoc Quyen in the heart of the Old Quarter.

The lady here specialises in a very unique banh bao — the buns are her personal recipes, made fresh from scratch daily. And it clearly shows in her price of VND35,000 per bun — a vast difference from her bicycle-riding counterpart. But what you get here is something all together different. The filling is a concoction of either chicken or pork with salted preserved duck egg and Chinese sausage; its outer white shell kissed with the faint aroma of sweet coconut.

Unfortunately, I can’t recommend these buns based on value alone. I’d indulge once for the novelty of seeing what you could get for the 600 percent price rise, but for street food, the markup seems a bit much. This is especially true since there are three stalls selling banh bao, all lined up in a row, just a few blocks west on Luong Van Can. The ones here are the usual fare, probably from the factory. They have no hidden tricks but are just as tasty as ever.

The banh bao is not difficult to find and should be tried. There is no sense resisting it, because, even if you don’t search it out, the banh bao will most definitely come calling for you at all hours of the night.

Midnight Banh Bao

Hai Vu talks banh bao, which if you haven’t yet tasted, you’ve definitely already heard of.

Photos by Dominic Blewett replies, saying that he purchased them earlier in the day at a banh bao factory in the Hai Ba Trung District. One of many, apparently.

Immediately, visions come to mind of an opulent, white Willy Wonka-esque building; a magical place where fluffy white machines churn out fluffy white buns en masse.

The heat of the cart and the warm bun in my hands feels so cozy and inviting. I decide to stick around and strike up a conversation with the vendor, asking him if he knew the origins of this ubiquitous snack that I’m stuffing into my face. I could tell, however, that Ong Hung is impatient with my gabbing as it is keeping him from his pilgrimage through the near-deserted streets of Hanoi.

There are hungry insomniacs like me to feed, so he is eager to be on his way. To appease him, I buy another bun, an act that quickly remedies his mood.

Originally brought to Vietnam by Chinese immigrants, the banh bao is the larger cousin of the baozi, a dumpling still popular today in Chinese dim sum. Other than this tiny tidbit, Ong Hung isn’t too sure of the exact origin of the banh bao, which he started selling six

January 2012 The Word | 59

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BUSINESS

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ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BEVERLY INVESTMENT

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THANG LONG AUDITING COMPANY 313 Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4976 2055 A Vietnamese company with more than 30 representative branches outside of Hanoi, Thang Long provides a full range of services, including audit, accounting, tax, corporate secretarial and business consultancy.

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KPMG

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16th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3946 1600 www.kpmg.com.vn Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also does executive search and selection.

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7th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3946 2246 www.pwc.com Provides business services including au-

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AMCHAM

104 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3822 3913 T&A is a marketing services company set up in Hanoi in 1995. Since then, they’ve offered their marketing services to several large overseas companies. They also work in co-operation with WPP, a world-wide brand communications firm.

M Floor, Business Center, Hilton Hanoi Opera, 1 Le Thanh Tong. Tel: 3934 2790 www.amchamhanoi.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

LEONITO MARKETING CONSULTING

AUSCHAM

10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co Street, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com Leonito develops marketing campaigns & behaviour change communications strategies for commercial brands and nongovernment organizations. Services: brand development; design & printing; gifts & premiums; marketing; public relations & events. Clients include multi-national brands and NGOs.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BOOZ ALLEN HAMILTON, INC.

Room 703, 7th Floor, MOF Project Building, No. 4, Lane 1, Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 9662 www.boozallen.com A US-based private consulting firm, Booz Allen Hamilton is one of the most notable names in the business. This firm has a long track record of assisting governments and multi-nationals in risk assessment and mission development.

DICKERSON KNIGHT GROUP

33A Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 2692 www.thinkdkg.com Established in 1991, this international firm has extensive experience in emerging markets. Their speciality is in providing

L3-14 Thuy Khue. Ba Dinh. Tel: 3728 0776 www.t-cgroup.com A well-known Vietnamese conglomerate of companies operating since 1994, T&C’s focus is on providing internationalstandard consultation to engineering and infrastructure projects. They also provide market research consulting.

BUSINESS GROUPS

10 Lane 283 Doi Can, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3762 2282 www.auschamvn.org An organisation bringing together Australian companies and individuals doing business in Vietnam, the Australian Chamber of Commerce offers advice on doing business. Also offers networking opportunities and social events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM

91 Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0906 240159 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

LAC VIET COMPUTING CORP

185 Giang VoSt., Dong Da. Tel: 3512 1846 www.lacviet.com.vn Since its founding in 1994, professional services and innovative solutions has led LAC VIET to a recognized position of leadership in Vietnam. LAC VIET employs more than 400 professionals in IT services and product development. LAC VIET is a certified MicrosoftTM Gold Partner; CiscoTM Premier Reseller; Dell Distributor and Authorised Service Provider(DASP).

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business CCIFV

Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2229. www.ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM

G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2228. www.eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM

Suite 504, Thanh Ha Building, Linh Dam Tel: 3641 6864. www.nordchamhn.org.vn Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Level 4, Kim Ma Building, 561 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3771 1004. www.sbav-hanoi.org An association that actively fosters business relations with other business communities while promoting social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities.

COPY WRITING ABLE COMMUNICATION

Tel: 0913 502829 able@fpt.vn An experienced editor is available

HANOI WEBSITES HANOIGRAPEVINE.COM The place to go for all things related to the arts in a city that is developing its own, vibrant contemporary arts scene. Has event calendars, event postings, blogs, addresses and contact details, and covers anything from classical music through to installations, rock concerts and more.

INFOSHAREHANOI.COM Provides the expat community with essential information for living and working in Hanoi including comprehensive and up-to-date events listings as well as address lists of galleries, cinemas, theatres, hotels, housing agencies, embassies and much more. Subscribe to receive their weekly newsletter.

LINKHANOI.COM Event photos, a what’s on calendar, restaurant and bar listings and in fact, pretty much everything you want to know about nightlife in Hanoi can be found on this popular website.

Also organize regular events and parties.

NEWHANOIAN.COM The city’s best known website, The New Hanoian provides user-generated listings, reviews and event information on pretty much anything and everything in the capital. Register, create your profile, write a review and receive frequent newsletters.

WORDHANOI.COM The online extension of The Word, contains both content from the print edition as well as blogs, events, news, a what’s on calendar, party photos and much more. Also has downloadable PDF versions of the whole publication.

62 | The Word January 2012

to proofread copy and help produce inspired communication or marketing collateral. Able Communication has been providing professional services and solutions to Vietnam’s business community since 2003. For more information about how we can help your organisation, call or e mail.

CORPORATE GIFTS REGAL PREMIUMS

10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.regalvietnam.com Regal Premiums produces trendy corporate gifts, premiums gifts, promotional gifts and branded mass giveaway items.

Professional team helps with design to fit your brand and production and logistics to fit your budget.

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE

MEGALAND

2nd Floor, 43 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5556 Specialising in meeting housing needs of expatriates and overseas Vietnamese, Megaland offers a wide range of serviced apartments, villas and commercial spaces.

SAVILLS VIETNAM

6th floor, Sentinel Place, 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 1300 www.savills.com.vn A leading global real estate service provider listed on the London Stock Exchange with over 200 offices worldwide.

Provides consultancy services, property management, space planning, facilities management, corporate real estate services, leasing, valuation and sales to the key segments of commercial, industrial, retail, residential and investment property.

TAN LONG HOUSING

CB Richard Ellis (Vietnam) Co., Ltd 6 Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 0220 www.cbrevietnam.com Finding the perfect accommodation to meet your various demands in Hanoi is made simple thanks to CBRE’s residential leasing team. Our services are inclusive of site finding, travelling fees, contract negotiation and resolving any other issues which arise during the term of the lease, all of which are free of charge for the tenant.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM 9th floor, Vinaplast, Tai Tam Building, 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 5888 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represent property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property.

Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management and support services.

Attempt to accelerate the success of their clients by making their knowledge your property.

49 Au Co, Tay Ho. Tel: 0913 345152 www.tanlonghousing.com Tan Long has been concentrating on assisting individuals in the process of buying, selling and renting property in Hanoi since 1999. They also have several branch offices, and a useful website that can help to fill residential or commercial needs.

VIETNAM LAND

38 Phan Boi Chau Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0934 416661 Vietnam Land was incorporated in Vietnam in 2002 as a commercial and residential real estate services, real estate property management and real estate development company. Since that time Vietnam Land has successfully developed two residential towers at the Chelsea Park project in Hanoi and a residential land sales project in Hung Yen province called Villa Park.

INSURANCE AIG

Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 1455 www.aig.com Offers a range of insurance products and services including property, casualty and marine exposure insurance. Also has comprehensive travel and accident coverage, as well as healthcare packages for expats residing in Vietnam.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI

CMC Tower, Duy Tan, Cau Giay Tel: 3795 8878 www.concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. It arrives in Hanoi in August 2011 but is enrolling from pre-school to grade seven now. Located to the west of the city.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

48 Lieu Giai Boulevard, Ba Dinh www.hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI

#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6418 www.hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International.

The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)

Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org With more than 800 students from 50 different countries, UNIS is a non-profit IB World School that instructs students from as young as three years old through to grade 12. Established in 1988 by agencies representing the United Nations, the pristine campus has a broad range of facilities and is located in the gated community of Ciputra.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.daluva.com/apartment Thoughtfully appointed and decorated, Daluva Home features a cosy bedroom for true rest, plus open living, dining, and work areas. Extras include two LCD TVs, iPod dock, and outdoor patio.

Housekeeping, and daily breakfast from the Daluva Breakfast Menu are also included. Private car and tour booking service available.

IF Consulting EuroCham, Sofitel Plaza Hotel, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

11th Floor, Hanoi Lake View Bldg, 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0203 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

HANOI HOUSE HUNTER

INDOCHINA CAPITAL

Quang Trung Building, Room 203, 39 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0983 336336 www.hanoihousehunter.com This company can assist you in finding an apartment that meets your living and budget requirements. Though they specialise in high-end, high-rise apartments, they do have a range of options. The website contains most listings.

16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: 3755 7111 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel, as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1 800 599 998.

KNIGHT FRANK

PRUDENTIAL

DALUVA HOME

40 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem www.knightfrank.com UK real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sale, lease, management, price appraisal, counselling and market research.

63 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centers throughout the country.

Floors 9-9A, 60 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3930 6399 www.indochinacapital.com A leading investment firm operating in the ASEAN region with a particular focus on Vietnam. Assists partners, co-investors and clients to achieve financial objectives while focusing on four core areas: corporate finance and advisory services, investment management and real estate development.

MEKONG CAPITAL

12th Floor, HAREC Building, 4A Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4888 www.mekongcapital.com A private equity firm which focuses on the growth equity of companies in the developing Vietnamese economy.

business SG VIETFRANCE

VIT Tower, 18th Floor, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 2220 8979 The Vietnamese subsidiary of France’s Societe Generale, the company recently opened a Hanoi. This was the first financial company in Vietnam to focus entirely on consumer credit.

VIET TIN FINANCIAL CO.

4th Floor, 44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5986 www.viet-tin.com A locally based securities and stock brokerage firm whose stated mission is to provide valued returns to partners and shareholders.

VINACAPITAL

5th Floor, Sun City Building, 13 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 4630 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a an investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO

67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 2051 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers highquality and cost-effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

One of the country’s leading language centres.

BRITISH COUNCIL

20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 1922 www.britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

CLEVERLEARN

to establish representative offices in Vietnam, Baker & McKenzie provide onthe-ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRESHFIELDS BRUCKHAUS DERINGER

#05-01 International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 7422 This law firm works in 19 countries and is one of the world’s largest. They regularly advise large clients on international investment, banking and finance.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

Pacific Place, Suite 505 – 507, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 2350 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 24 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services which combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

J&P LAW LLC

Room 1204B, Floor 12, Tower B, Handi Resco Tower 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh , Tel: 3724 5201 www.jnplaw.com This Korean law firm offers international legal services and has additional branches in Ho Chi Minh City, Beijing and Ulaanbaatar. The Vietnam offices provide high-quality legal services in English, Korean, and Vietnamese across all sectors of business law.

LAWYERS ASSOCIATION OF THE CITY OF HANOI

35 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 3835 3548 The Lawyer’s Association is a collective of Vietnamese lawyers speicialising in many fields. They can provide legal and representation services.

ROUSE LEGAL (HANOI BRANCH)

Building 3, 2C Diplomatic Compound, Van Bao, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1698 www.cleverlearnvietnam.vn With two main schools in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Cleverlearn offers mainly conversational and business English courses. An authorised in iBT test site by the ETS.

Room 317, 3rd Floor, VCCI Building, 9 Dao Duy Anh, Cau Giay Tel: 3577 0479 www.iprights.com Rouse is an international intellectual property law firm. From HCMC and Hanoi we advise on protection and enforcement of trade marks, patents, copyright and domain names; commercial IP, IP management/strategy.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM

RUSSIN & VECCHI

62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3733 8402 www.languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON

Suite 401, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 0990 Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE

13th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1428 www.bakernet.com One of the first international law firms

11/F, Hanoi Central Office Bldg., Suite 1104, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3825 1700 A financial law firm which focuses on commercial and investment matters for corporate clients. In some cases they can provide assistance to individual clients.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRITISH UNIVERSITY VIETNAM

193 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 7596 www.britishuniversity.edu.vn The first university offering prestigious UK degrees in Vietnam. Courses offered in 2010 include International Business Administration, Banking & Finance, Accounting & Finance, Marketing Management, Accounting & Business. Pre-university courses are also available.

G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES

HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh Tel: 3762 3805 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign-invested company focusing on management services and consult-

ing with in-house programs to meet the particular requirements of its clients.

Offers teambuilding and academic-based business and management programmes.

RMIT

Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1460 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and longterm courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO

142 Le Duan, Dong Da Tel: 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com www.cimigo.com Independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in Hanoi and the Asia Pacific region in general.

Services include auditing and optimising research programs, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH

7th Floor, 73 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4661 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina. Focus is on developing partnerships that leverage their market knowledge and on enhancing their client’s competitive position in the region.

THE NIELSEN COMPANY

3rd floor, 85 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 1161 www.nielsen.com Media company offering integrated marketing and media measurement information and analytics. Offers full service capability across qualitative, quantitative, media and retail measurement for FMCGs, consumer products, finance, telecoms and more.

VINALINK

59 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4206 1773 www.vinalink.com Specialising in online survey-based market research, Vinalink is a subcontractor for a few global market research firms, including CALEB Global and Pulse Group.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MEDIA ONE

Rm 207, 40A Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3247 4028 www.media-one.vn PR company with offices both in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Focuses mainly on the Telecom and IT industries, providing a range of services including events, product activation, consulting, marketing and advertising.

TQPR

Room 109, House K, 7, 2ha, Vinh Phuc Ward, Ba Dinh.

Tel: 32474 028 www.tqpr.com One in a group of companies from Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, the company offers international standard consultancy services and value-added results to local, regional and global clients.

VENUS COMMUNICATIONS

4 Da Tuong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 7066 Well-known PR and communications company with offices in both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Offers the full range of PR, advertising and consultancy services.

RECRUITMENT & HR AON VIETNAM LIMITED

14th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0832 www.aon.com/vietnam Founded in Vietnam in 1994, among other things, Aon now concentrates on human capital consulting, assisting their clients with compensation, benefit analyses and outsourcing.

HR2B

Suite A6, 3rd Floor, Horison Office Center, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3736 6843 www.hr2b.com The forte of this company is placing highly talented Vietnamese and expat candidates into executive positions at medium to large companies. Rapidly growing, in the past years they’ve added Coca Cola, DHL and Prudential to their client list.

MANPOWER VIETNAM

12th Floor, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 4574 www.manpower.com.vn Established in Vietnam at the beginning of 2008, Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally.

Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

NAVIGOS GROUP

Suite 1401, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 3033 www.navigosgroup.com Adept at solving human resource challenges through excellence in matching and management talent. Has offices in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS

8 Cat Linh, Dong Da. Tel: 6275 2824 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO

Inland Customs Depot Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem. Tel: 3768 5882 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption to family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

CROWN RELOCATION SERVICES

3rd & 4th Floor, 75 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 6741 www.crownrelo.com Offering both family and corporate relocation services locally and internationally, Crown prides themselves on being a kidfriendly company.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3826 0334 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and

January 2012 The Word | 63

destination local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

DESTINATION

RESIDENT VIETNAM

LISTINGS

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

DALAT 064 DANANG 064 HALONG & CAT BA 064 HAI PHONG 064 HANOI - INTERNATIONAL 065 HANOI - MID - RANGE 065 HANOI - BUDGET 065 HO CHI MINH CITY 067 HOI AN & DANANG 067 HUE 067 MAI CHAU & HOA BINH 067 NAM DINH & NINH BINH 068

3A, Alley 49, Huynh Thuc, Dong Da Tel: 3773 7191 www.residentvietnam.com Established in 2000, Resident Vietnam was the first dedicated Expatriate Service Provider in Vietnam. Resident Vietnam provides full relocation and immigration management services to several multinational companies in Vietnam and ser vices the Global Mobility industry.

Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Union Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0908 096222 sales@santaferelo.com.vn www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. We are proud to be the only moving company with both ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES

49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0912 239085 www.atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’.

Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

DALUVA HOME

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5831 Whether traveling or on a temporary stay, Daluva can provide space & comfort.

Thoughtfully appointed Daluva Homes feature a cozy bedroom for true rest, and an open living area that opens up to a terrace with plants.

FRASER SUITES

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 8877 http://hanoi.frasershospitality.com Great location in Syrena Tower on West Lake, Fraser Suites offer a tranquil repose from the busy city. Has several apartments with excellent views and provides gold-standard service.

MAYFAIR

34B Tran Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0030 www.mayfair-hanoi.com A building with a great location, and some of the largest apartments you’ll find. The Mayfair is popular among the diplomatic and international business communities.

SEDONA SUITES

No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 0888 www.sedonahotels.com.sg 175 well-designed, furnished apartments and villas combining the comforts of home with the conveniences of a fine hotel.

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 2342 www.somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24-hour reception and central location.

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DALAT BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA $$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and modern amenities, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa, and prices to match.

CREDIT

DREAMS HOTEL

$ 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private place has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from $10 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

CREDIT

$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat , Tel: 063 382 2663 You get door-to-door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic hotel, but it’s right in the middle of town.

DANANG DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Coastal Street Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son, Tel: 0511 396 1800 With six different styles of villa units that offer views of the ocean, the mountains and a green of a golf course, the Danang Beach Resort is one of the most luxurious places to stay in this much overlooked city. The property also offers 33-storey twin towers housing a five-star hotel and golf courses adding up to 36 holes.

CREDIT

HALONG & CAT BA BAI TU LONG ECOTOURISM RESORT

$ Halong Commune, Van Don , Tel: 0333 793156 Stay in a beachside bungalow or a traditional resort-style hotel on the shores of Van Don Island. Bai Tu Long Bay is situated just up the coast from Halong City.

The staff here can help you arrange tours that will offer scenery a bit different than the standard tours of Halong Bay.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY $$$ 47 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with

CREDIT

OCEAN BEACH RESORT

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings NHA TRANG 068 NORTH-EAST 068 NORTH-WEST 069 PHAN THIET / MUI NE 069 PHU QUOC 069 SAPA 069 TAM DAO 070 TRAVEL SERVICES 070

PEACE HOTEL

$ 39 Vuon Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846009 Found just outside Halong City on Bai Chay beach, this is clean, honest accommodation for a reasonable price. Located on “Hotel Alley”, there are a lot of options here. The rooms are fairly well looked after and clean. You can usually get one for under VND400,000, but prices vary depending on the season.

ARTICES DESTINATION ZERO 066

PRINCES HOTEL

contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three-night tours are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES

$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude-cruises.com This reproduction of a 19th-century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in impeccably maintained cabins. The great food and service adds to the already beautiful setting. They also offer transfers directly from Hanoi.

CREDIT

$ Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Tel: 0313 888899 This is one of the better hotels on Cat Ba Island. Large, clean rooms with all the modern conveniences, as well as a restaurant and a popular bar. The front desk can also arrange tailor-made tours around the bay.

ROYAL HOTEL

CREDIT

$$$$ 66 Pho Ha Long, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 848999. www.royalhalong.com The four-star Royal Hotel boasts villas, well-landscaped gardens and a pool, all overlooking Halong Bay. Just two minutes walk from Bai Chay, the property has a resort feel and the rooms are housed in several buildings. If you’re feeling lucky, there’s also a ‘Gaming Club’.

HAI PHONG

HAI LONG JUNKS, HALONG BAY

BACH DANG HOTEL

HALONG DREAM HOTEL

HARBOUR VIEW HOTEL

32 Anh Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846099 Hai Long Junks is one of the three largest cruise operators in Halong Bay. The company boasts 11 overnight cruise vessels with a total of 160 cabins and 15 traditional junks with capacities from 25-48 passengers each for day trippers, providing cruise services for travelers with a mid-range budget.

CREDIT

$$$ 10 Halong Road, Halong , Tel: 0333 849 009 www.halongdreamhotel.com Close to the pier and the new bridge, what this hotel lacks in character is made up for in cleanliness and comfort. There are 184 rooms priced between VND2 million and VND6 million. Other facilities include indoor pool, health club and sauna.

HALONG PLAZA

CREDIT

$$$ 8 Halong Road, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: 0333 845810, www.halongplaza.com One of the many large tower-type hotels in Halong City, Halong Plaza has pretty much everything you’d expect from a 4-star hotel. 200 rooms, a bar and a restaurant that touts its seafood and barbecue.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

CREDIT

$$$ www.oceanbeachresort.com.vn This resort is on a private island just off of Cat Ba Island. Around VND600,000 will get you a comfortable room in a bungalow close to the beach. Fee also includes the boat ride from Cat Ba. For more information check on the web.

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$$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh. Tel: 0333 848108 www.novotelhalongbay.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including a pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

$$ 42 Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 384 2444 bachdanghotelhp@hn.vnn.vn One of the best of the town’s best budget hotels, the aircon old but clean rooms come in all shapes and sizes and have satellite TV, a fridge and a mini bar. The front-desk staff speaks English and can help sort out any travel arrangements.

Rates from around VND250,000 per night.

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$$$ 4 Tran Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 382 7827 www.harbourviewvietnam.com Hai Phong’s most prestigious address, this cool, retro French-colonial style property is the only international standard hotel in town. Designed with panache without being pretentious, room rates at this 122-unit property start at around VND2.5 million.

HUU NGHI HOTEL

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$$$ 60A Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 384 2706, www.huunghihotel.vn One of the larger hotels in town, Huu Nghi offers some of the comforts you might miss at the other places. In addition to the clean up-to-standard rooms, the hotel also has a swimming pool and tennis courts.

MAXIM HOTEL

$$ 3K Ly Tu Trong, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 374 6540 New and tidy, with cable TV and airconditioning, Maxim is one of the best mini hotels in town. Rooms are small but have good modern conveniences like satellite TV and new, clean bathrooms done in designer tiles. Room rates around VND250,000 to VND300,000 a night.

MONACO HOTEL

103 Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 374 6468 One of the more modern hotels on Dien Bien Phu Street, the prices here are com-

destination petitive and it’s possible to request a room with a kitchen. Standards with aircon and a TV start at VND350,000 per night.

HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: 6270 6688. www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property. This 24-storey mixed-use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

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DAEWOO HOTEL

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$$$ 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel.com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range.

Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

$$$ 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Dist, Tel: 3831 3333 fortunahanoi@fortuna.com.vn fortunahotels.com This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

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FRASER SUITES

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 8877 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com A good alternative to staying at a five-star hotel while you’re in the capital, Fraser Suites offers short-term stays for as little as VND2.5 million a night when they’re having a promotion. In the West Lake area, you can expect the gold-standard service with a quiet atmosphere and excellent views.

are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE $$$$ 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental.com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.

Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.

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MARIGOLD HOTEL

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$$$ 17A Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com A contemporary boutique hotel a stone’s throw from Hang Cot in the Old Quarter.

Colonial era accents throughout and an oriental themes lobby. 32 upmarket rooms and an intimate top class restaurant make this a strong contender in an area with plenty of competition.

MELIA HANOI

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$$$$ 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343, www.meliahanoi.com This landmark property has become one of Hanoi’s most popular five-star hotels.

Centrally located, with luxurious accommodation, the Melia also has a host of fine dining areas, a swimming pool, a health club and an in-house bar-cumnightclub, Latino. A popular venue for functions, exhibitions and events.

MERCURE HANOI LA GARE

$$$ 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 7766 When your train arrives from Sapa at 5am, you will be overjoyed if your bed is just across the street from the station in one of the 102 spacious rooms at this smart hotel. A stone’s throw from both the Old Quarter and the Temple of Literature, Mercure Hanoi boasts a French brasserie, an internal courtyard, a fitness centre and a retail outlet of wine importer and distributor Da Loc. CREDIT

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem , Tel: 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this fivestar is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top-end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area.

$$$$ 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi.com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers.

An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

HORISON HOTEL

SHERATON

HANOI HILTON

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$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0808 This 250-room hotel no longer boasts the sparkle of a few years ago, but nonetheless has good quality rooms with all the mod-cons and a cavernous lobby. Decent but slightly old gym area and a good outdoor pool.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA

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$$$$ 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and

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$$$$ K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9000, www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI $$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem , Tel: 3826 6919 ww.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial peCREDIT

riod is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI

$$$$ 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

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four luxurious suites. All rooms have wi-fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.5 million for a guest room to VND4.5 million for a suite.

MAY DE VILLE

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$$$ 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

THANG LONG OPERA HOTEL

$$$ 1C Tong Dan Street, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 4775 www.thanglongopera.com This hotel houses 71 spacious, comfortable rooms all equipped with high speed internet, bath tub and room service. They have a meeting room, which can accommodate up to 60 people, as well as a restaurant and bar downstairs.

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HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN

16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GIABAO HANOI & GIABAO GRAND

$$$ 38 & 23 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2222 Two mid-range hotels situated in the heart of Hanoi,just 150 meters from Hoan Kiem Lake. Built using a blend of western and oriental architecture, the properties have 28 and 35 rooms respectively, all with mod-cons. For a bit more luxury stay at the Giabao Grand.

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GOLDEN LOTUS HOTEL

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$$ 32 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8583 www.goldenlotushotel.com.vn The interesting arty decor of this place is a bonus, as is its value for money – it’s not often you pay under VND1 million for a modern hotel room slap bang in the middle of town. Try to get a front room (with balcony) to look out over the bustling Old Quarter. They’ve also opened a second Golden Lotus just down the street at number 39.

HANOI SPRING HOTEL II

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$$$ 4 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1256 www.zephyrhotel.com.vn A mid-size boutique hotel with a prime location, Zephyr offers a range of packages and special offers on rooms that are clean and stylish. The lobby boasts a coffee house and restaurant with both Asian and Western Cuisine.

HANOI – BUDGET CAMELLIA HOTEL

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$$ 44 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 3667 www.camellia-hotels.com Basic rooms and friendly service at this well-known hotel. One of six properties of the same name in Hanoi, internet terminals are located in the lobby, and the property also offers a host of tour itineraries. Rooms vary in price from VND500,000 to VND700,000. Some of their other locations are more budget-friendly.

HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL

$ 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style

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$$ 38 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 8500 www.hanoispringhotel.com One of the only hotels in the Old Quarter to have a balcony with each room, this new boutique is middle of the range but feels higher. Run by Australian expats and partners with a wealth of experience in the hotel industry, expect great service.

Awesome western breakfasts and Vietnamese lunch and dinners. The top floor honeymoon suite has perfect views of St Josephs Cathedral.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

ZEPHYR

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$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com www.josephshotel.com Just to the side of St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a well-appointed, comfortable boutique hotel. Brightly decorated, the property’s 10 rooms have Wi-Fi, flatscreen TV and a mini bar. Prices start at VND650,000 a night. No smoking except for on the upstairs balconies.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem Lake, this boutique hotel is fitted with 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

$$

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM

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SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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DESTINATION PHOTOS BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

ZERO wanting to stop and look around, but feeling compelled to keep moving. Soon it was lunchtime.

There is nothing better than hot food after biking in the rain for several hours.

The second half of the day, the analogy and the highway continued. The rider in front of me sped ahead. Like my early twenties, there were times when I felt alone; at points I had to remind myself it wasn’t a race, to stop and rest if needed. Seeing an incline on the horizon triggered a pang of anxiety. At the top of a hill I felt triumphant.

And damp.

By the evening we reached the town where we would spend the night. The only thing better than hot food is sleep.

THE BIKE TRIP Sometimes road trips just don’t work out, writes Roz Plotzker, whose aim was to cycle from Hanoi to Nghe An with 12 Snickers bars and a poncho

I

t started outside a movie theatre with a text message: “Be there in 10 minutes.

Also, I have a proposal for you”. Over dinner, my friend explained his idea to bike 300km of the Ho Chi Minh Highway in three days. His pitch had phrases like “wing it” and “villages or bust”. It was a perfect invitation.

The archetypal road trip story has been experienced and told countless times. There is a road, a vehicle and a traveller. There are inevitable lessons learned. Internal and external struggles are confronted. With a little luck, the protagonist survives the journey a changed person, but unscathed.

In some ways this story is no different.

The Road The Ho Chi Minh Highway runs north to south, just parallel of highway 1A. It is currently a two lane, 1,234.5km stretch from Hanoi to Kon Tum Province in the Central Highlands, travelling approximately along the Ho Chi Minh Trail (though never into Laos).

The Vehicle A seven-speed Trek bike. I know nothing

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else technical about it. It was grey with a basket.

The Traveller I am 28 years old. I have not ridden a bicycle since I was 23, when my bike was stolen in Philadelphia.

The Story [Day 1] At 7.30am, armed with a lightweight backpack, a patch kit, a first aid kit, 12 Snickers bars, new bike shorts, a poncho and a helmet, I loaded my bike onto the bus. By 9.30am, we were at the head of the Ho Chi Minh highway. I needed a final preparatory step: a cafe. As soon as we were sat down, the sky split open and spilled a downpour.

After an hour, the rain stopped. We mounted our bikes. I peddled, staring straight ahead at my fellow traveller, with the gorgeous landscape that typifies the region in my peripheral vision. My muscles warmed up. After the first 10km I started to imagine the highway as an analogy for my early twenties — not knowing what I was getting myself into; hoping the person ahead of me would be a good guide;

[Day 2] A breakfast of juice, sticky rice and coffee — all under a lovely bright blue sky. I was stiff but looking forward to another day of scenery, introspection and peddling.

The landscape, which had been cloaked in mist before, was naked and illuminated today. It was a postcard. I biked up and down the hills, talking to myself a little bit to keep myself company. Water buffalodrawn carts passed me. I was engulfed by a group of teenagers on electric bikes for a few minutes. But mostly I was alone, physically on the road, mentally in 2006.

Then a sharp pain shot up my right heel to my calf. The back of my ankle felt like a rubber band that had been overstretched.

At our 10km break, I wondered if I would be able to complete the day’s goal. By 27km, I convinced myself to take a break. I caught a ride to the next town, iced my ankle, and waited for my friends to arrive. When they did, we had a bowl of pho — not nearly as satisfying as yesterday’s lunch. And, my ankle did not feel any better. I hitched a second ride to the town where we planned to spend the night. The scenery zoomed by too fast to appreciate the details. It was a montage of rural Vietnam. Was there ever a point in my twenties when I was equally handicapped, I wondered? Have I been zooming through my late twenties, failing to enjoy the minutia?

I hobbled into a guesthouse, wheeling my bike into the lobby. I was asking about room prices when I heard the crash. Once the cloud of incense dust cleared, I saw my bike on its side with a crushed alter underneath it. A pang shot up my Achilles tendon as I limped over to clean the mess. It was time to go home.

On the night bus back to Hanoi I felt disappointed, but mostly relieved to be off my feet. I would wake up closer to home.

Maybe I’ll try again, I thought as I dozed off.

Only first, I should do a couple day trips.

destination hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

$$$ 34 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5053 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact, with small but clean bathrooms, and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel.

Either ADSL or Wi-Fi connections available.

Some of the locations include sauna, steam bath and fitness facilities

LITTLE HANOI HOTEL

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$ 58 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem ,Tel: 3928 8648 www.littlehanoihotel.com Spacious rooms with ADSL broadband connections starting at around VND600,000 a night. The rooms at the front are more expensive, and breakfast is included. The staff speak good English and are very helpful. Has a number of sister hotels in town, two of which are located next to the cathedral. The third is on Tue Tinh, close to Lenin Park. Check the website for details.

HO CHI MINH CIT Y CARAVELLE HOTEL

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$ 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Luxury accommodation with a stylish club Lounge boasting panoramic views, as well as the finest meeting and banquet facilities in town – all designed with the savvy traveller in mind. The 21-floor tower includes 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a Presidential Suite.

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LAN LAN HOTEL 2

NEW WORLD

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1. Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid-range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 , Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth-floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1. Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous-looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation and the Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

CONTINENTAL

RAMANA HOTEL

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$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental-saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the best of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

DUC VUONG HOTEL

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$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi-Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well-appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street-level mayhem of the backpacker area.

EQUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Big and businesslike, with seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.

Also boasts the biggest banquet facilities in the city.

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA

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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1 Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3. Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A 4-star business class hotel, The Ramana Hotel boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a Business Centre, a well-equipped Fitness Room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club, The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2 km from the city centre and 3 km from the airport.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE

$$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus one of the best-regarded Chinese restaurants in the city.

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SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first-class facilities topped by an open-air restaurant 23 floors above the city. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com True class on an attractive (and historic) street, offering a mix of rooms and suites, CREDIT

top-notch facilities, and restaurant cuisine which can match anything in the city.

Without a doubt one of the nicest places to stay in the city.

HOI AN & DANANG CUA DAI

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family-run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air-conditioned rooms and pleasant staff.

FURAMA RESORT & SPA

$$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

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HUY HOANG 1

$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town.

Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life-resorts.com Recently refurbished after a recent flood, this award-winning resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000. www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, the Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre-programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CUA DAI BEACH CREDIT

Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Pull up some (private) beach and relax, at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

HUE ANA MANDARA HUE

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$$$$ Thuan An Town, Phu Vang District, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam. Tel: 08 6291 3030 sales1@anamandarahue-resort.com www.hotelcollectionindochine.com Located on Thuan An Beach, a 20-minute drive from central Hue, the five-star Ana Mandara is the only beach resort with pool villas in the area. The property has a total of 78 rooms and villas, including beach pool villas, beach villas, duplex

rooms and deluxe rooms in a wide range of styles and decor designed with modern facilities. Offers private rice paddy dinners, beach BBQs and cruises through the local fish farms.

GUESTHOUSE VAN XUAN

$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue , Tel: 054 382 6561 An excellent option for those on a tight budget, with a comfortable room plus balcony and satellite TV coming in at around VND200,000. An additional bonus is the pleasantness of the staff.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high-rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million ++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue. Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la-residence-hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark-stained wood furnishings, this is traditional Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

$$$ Tel: 0510 354 5105. www.domainedetamhai.com If you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional-looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer.

There is endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

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PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue. Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub-VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

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$$$$ 130 Minh Mang, Hue. Tel: 054 388 5461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com A collection of rustic villas located in the countryside close to Hue and its historical landmarks. Villas range from the traditional Vietnamese pool house to the family bungalow. The boutique, imperial-era Vietnam styled resort also holds cooking classes, makes tour arrangements and has an on-site spa.

SUN SPA RESORT

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999. www.sunsparesortvietnam.com This top-end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh, about 150 miles from Hue. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

MAI CHAU & HOA BINH COMMUNAL GUEST HOUSE 1

$$$ Poom Village, Mai Chau, Tel: 0912 320990 One of the larger stilt houses in Poom Village, the bamboo floor you can expect to sleep on is more comfortable than you might expect, and this house has a pleas-

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destination

AIRLINES

ant view of a lotus pond. Like at all the other stilt houses here, drink and dance can be arranged.

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LA FERME DU COLVERT

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First Floor, 1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 3484 www.airfrance.com.vn

$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam-aventure.com This eco-village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in ten houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

AIR MEKONG

MAI CHAU GUESTHOUSE

25 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 5351 www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 37186 399 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 99 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC G/F, Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7298 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

CHINA AIRLINES 4th Floor, Opera Business Center, 6B Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 6364 www.china-airlines.com

EVA AIR 2nd Floor,17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 1600 www.evaair.com

JAPAN AIRLINES 5th Floor, 63 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6693 www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

KOREAN AIR 2nd Floor, VIT, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 7247 www.koreanair.com

At the farthest end of town, Mai Chau Tel: 0218 386 7262 This hotel seems to offer bare-bones amenities, but if you don’t fancy sleeping on the rattan floor of a stilt house, this is a couple good steps above, and the rooms are quite inexpensive. Be prepared for the noise from the karaoke bars which surround the place.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com If real comfort is what you want, this is surely the best bet in Mai Chau. The rooms are modern and classy, with room service, sauna and internet connections.

The newly built Water Lily Cottage offers a luxury version of the house on stilts.

Give a call for exact directions, or you can check their website.

MAI CHAU NATURE PLACE

House 38, Ban Lac Village, Tel: 3938 1443 www.maichaunatureplace.com A perfect mix between a home-stay experience and comfortable hotel. The private rooms are beautifully quaint while the communal sleeping option is more typical of rural lodges. Both options come with modern and clean bathrooms, traditional home-cooked meals, free bicycles and friendly, in-the-know, staff.

BIKE RENTALS

LAO AIRLINES

Somerset Grand Hanoi, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 8820 www.malaysiaairlines.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 8888 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7921 www.thaiair.com

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 www.vietnamairlines.com

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NAM DINH & NINH BINH CUC PHUONG GUEST HOUSE

$$$$ 396 Quoc Lo 14, Dong Xoai, Binh Phuoc Tel: 0651 387 9764 Accommodation here is quite basic, but this place offers a good deal in relation to the other places around, if you want a place to sleep before a long day of park touring.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Park accommodation, in modern rooms, stilt houses and detached bungalows, includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night.

Rooms available at park hq, the park centre, and on the road linking the two.

THANH THUY GUEST HOUSE

$ 128 Le Hong Phong, Ninh Binh. Tel: 030 387 1811 Refurbished in 2004, this has big, clean rooms that are great value for the money.

There is an in-house restaurant that will make it redundant to eat elsewhere. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND400,000 for a double deluxe room. The staff speak very good English.

THUY ANH HOTEL

$$ 55A Truong Han Sieu, Ninh Binh. Tel: 030 387 1602 This hotel is slightly more expensive than its neighbors, but the reason is apparent once you walk in. The rooms in the newer building are especially nice and, together with the better than decent restaurant downstairs, this one can make for a good stop over.

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LOT AIRLINES

MALAYSIA AIRLINES

$$$$ House 100, Quarter 2, Mai Chau. Tel: 0218 386 7340 If a sturdy bed is what you crave, this might be your answer. The rooms are large and clean, with a working television and shower with hot water. Might not be the Hilton, but for an aching back it’s a step above a bamboo floor and a mat.

NHA TRANG

40 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 5362 www.laoairlines.com

R402, 4th floor, Dao Duy Anh Tower, 9 Dao Duy Anh, Dong Da Tel: 3577 2202 www.lot.com

NGOC BACH

MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL 106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912 094464

QUAN’S MOTORBIKE & BICYCLE RENTALS 70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 244941 Standard rental shop doing hire by the day and by the month.

VIETNAM MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURES 36 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem (down alley in between No. 34 & No. 36) Tel: 3904 5049 Bespoke motorbike tours, rental of automatic and manual bikes plus repairs.

VIP BIKE RENTALS 64, Alley 71 Tan Ap, Tay Ho (off Tan Ap Street, close to Sofitel Plaza) Tel: 0914 931390 Bike rentals and repairs. Good reputation.

Formerly part of the Blue Dragon Foundation.

bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top-drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at VND15 million++ for a beach pool villa.

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang. Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com This stylish four-star hotel is centrally located on the main street of the resort city of Nha Trang. Along with 154 modern rooms, each with terrace and a stunning sea view, Novotel Nha Trang offers a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room catering for up to 200 delegates.

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SAO MAI HOTEL

99 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 7412 Try to get a seaview room with private balcony at this friendly and very cheap hotel, which also has a rooftop terrace.

Rooms have basic but adequate facilities and it is well located.

SUNRISE BEACH RESORT

$$$ 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang. Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Luxury boutique hotel in the city centre and right across from the beach is well geared up for the family and business trade, with kids’ room, beach recreation, restaurants offering Japanese, Vietnamese and European cuisine, pool bar, beach bar, sky bar and a Qi spa.

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WHALE ISLAND RESORT

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501. www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. Onsite seafood restaurant and bar.

NORTH-EAST BANG GIANG HOTEL

$ 1 Kim Dong, Cao Bang. Tel: 026 385 3431 A large, government-run hotel popular with tour groups. Rooms are super-sized, with big windows and some even have views. They also take credit cards, which might not be expected here. Room rates are around VND400,000.

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang. Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason-anamandaranhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa-style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

HOANG NGUYEN HOTEL

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

57D Thanh Tam, Lang Son. Tel: 025 371 0479 Although it may be a bit hard to communicate with the staff if you’re Vietnamese isn’t up to snuff, they are eager to help. The rooms are exceptionally nice for the area.

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang). Tel: 058 362 2384 On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism.

The owners arrange pick-up from Nha Trang and the down-to-earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa. Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six-Senses-HideawayNinh-Van-Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a

$ 84 Pho Tran Dang Ninh, Lang Son Tel: 025 387 0349 This place offers basic accommodation at a good price. Don’t expect too much, but as an en route stop-over, Hoang Nguyen will definitely do.

HOANG SON HAI

HUY HOAN HOTEL

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$ 14 Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang. Tel: 0219 386 1288 The large, comfortable sleeping quarters here may come as a surprise in these parts. But these are the things that have made Huy Hoan so popular. Several tour groups use the place as a stopover, and the staff is adept at fulfilling their needs.

SAO MAI HOTEL

$ Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang. Tel: 0219 386 3019 One of the first guesthouses you see as you arrive in town, location has made this guesthouse a popular stop off point.

The sleeping accommodations are clean and comfortable, enough to enjoy a good night’s sleep and shower.

destination THANH LOAN HOTEL

$ V159 Vuon Cam, Cao Bang. Tel: 026 385 7026 Thanh Loan is a smaller hotel with more attention paid to the details. Still, expect basic accommodation, but, all said, a good bargain.

THAI NGUYEN HOTEL

2 Hoang Van Thu, Thai Nguyen. Tel: 0280 385 2803 Your standard two-star establishment, Thai Nguyen is one of the best (and one of the only) choices in the vicinity. It’s quite a large hotel considering its location, so booking shouldn’t be a problem.

NORTH-WEST HUYEN TRAN GUEST HOUSE

$$$ 2 Hoang Van Thu, Lai Chau. Tel: 0231 387 5829 Offers reasonable guesthouse-style rooms with air conditioning, some of them with balconies. Take a look at the rooms before you rent as the quality may vary.

KHACH SAN DIEN BIEN PHU

SON LA TRADE UNION HOTEL

$$ 4 Duong, 26-8 Rd, Son La. Tel: 022 385 5313 The explanation of the name is a mystery, but with 100 rooms it could probably house a mid-size union. Not the cheapest place in town, but the rooms are extra large and fairly well-kept. If you want to spend some time with satellite television, this is your place. Price range is VND500,000 to VND600,000, breakfast included.

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SUNRISE HOTEL

$ 53 Duong 26 – 8, Son La. Tel: 022 385 8798 Sunrise makes for a decent stay for those travelling between Hanoi and Dien Bien Phu. In relation to the other hotels on the road, the rooms are very clean and the staff helpful. A night here will run around VND400,000.

PHAN THIET / MUI NE BLUE OCEAN RESORT

$$ 849 Duong 7-5, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 382 5103 Pretty much what it sounds like: a Dien Bien Phu guest house. Rooms are made for sleeping and not much else, but at good prices. Cleanliness and comfort are acceptable and about average for this type of establishment.

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322. www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim-up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground.

Another new addition is an Irish bar. One of the better appointed resorts in the area.

MUONG THANH HOTEL

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

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$$ 25 Pho 1, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 381 0043 This Soviet-era hotel has a unique style that makes it one of the most visited. So, despite its size, it may be a good idea to book in advance. There’s a charge for the swimming pool, even if you’re staying there. But, hey, there’s a pool. The rooms are better than average and have satellite TV. CREDIT

$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com The first all-villa luxury boutique resort in Vietnam, the Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four-hour drive from Ho Chi Minh Ciry and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and a 24-hour butler service, this is one of CREDIT

the most luxurious resorts in the country.

Definitely one of the most exclusive.

SHADES APARTMENTS

$$$ Tel: 062 743 237. www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach, with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and dining options.

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THE SAILING CLUB

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7440 Much more than its name suggests, with beautiful landscaped tropical gardens leading onto a stretch of pristine beach and an outdoor bar, well-positioned to make the best of the scenery. Has a mix of comfortable rooms and bungalows, and has recently done some refurbishment.

Offers quad-biking, kitesurfing, paragliding and, of course, sailing.

PHU QUOC CHEN LA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla-resort.com Open since Nov. 2008, this 37-bungalow resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first-class spa treatment and a mediterranean-themed restaurant.

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LA VERANDA

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$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773 982888 / 3823 7645 (Sales office) www.laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, La Veranda has

beautifully-designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all-natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

MANGO BAY

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc. Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco-friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around. Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up excellent food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow-style resort, which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid-back and simple. And cheap.

SAPA AUBERGE HOTEL

$ 7 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 1243 Despite being in the centre of town, some of the back rooms offer nice views. There is also a good French-style restaurant downstairs, which is what you might expect considering the décor and name.

Prices vary, but a room should generally cost around VND400,000.

BAMBOO HOTEL

$$ 18 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 1075 One of the best things about the Bamboo

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destination Hotel is the view, so make sure you check out the room first – some are better than others. There is aircon if needed, but you might want to ask for extra blankets in winter, in spite of electric heaters. Rooms here are between VND700,000 and VND1 million a night. The premium here is on the views.

CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE

$$ Cat Cat Road. Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

HMONG MOUNTAIN RETREAT

$ Km 6 Sapa, Ban Ho Road Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: 020 3872 130 www.hmongmountainretreat.com A large stilt house, five clay-clad bungalows and one 70-year-old Hmong House is what waits for you amid the rolling hills of Lao Cai, 6km outside of Sapa. The ecoresort’s team are all local and will help you enjoy the surroundings of the Muong Hoa Valley.

SAPA ROOMS

$$ 18 Phang Xi Pan, Sapa. Tel: 020 6505 228 www.saparooms.com Located in the heart of Sapa town this simple but comfortable boutique hotel occupies an unprecedented corner location overlooking the terraced valleys of Sapa and not far from the energy of the local market. Rooms are decorated with antique hardwood furniture and contemporary artwork from local artists with touches of ethnic minority culture.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas-eco-lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco-cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

VICTORIA SAPA

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from $135 to $250 per night).

The many amenities include satellite TV, in-room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool.

The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

TAM DAO GREEN WORLD HOTEL

$ Khu Nhi Mat, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4315 A big new hotel, Green World has 100 rooms ranging in price from VND400,000 to VND600,000 a night. Because of its height, the top rooms have nice views of the town and surroundings. There is a restaurant and bar with billiards, and internet in the lobby.

HANG KHONG HOTEL

$ Khu 1 Thi, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4208 Another one of the newer hotels in Tam Dao, Hang Khong caters mainly to Vietnamese tourists. But the price is right, hovering around VND500,000. Many of the rooms have balconies, but all have comfortable beds and hot showers.

HUONG LIEN HOTEL

$ Khu I Thi, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4282 Just your basic hotel, but if what you want is a bed and satellite television, this is your place. Can’t beat the price at around VND200,000. Beware, though, prices are subject to change.

MELA HOTEL

$$ Thi Tran, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4321 Probably the prime place to stay in Tam Dao, the Mela has a swimming pool that might come in handy if you’re in the mountains to escape the heat of Hanoi summer. Rooms are comfortable and clean, with two double beds and balcony.

The staff can assist if you want to explore the natural surroundings. Prices between VND800,000 and VND1.6 million.

TRAVEL SERVICES AIR MEKONG

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 37186 399 www.airmekong.com.vn With presence in eight different cities including Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Con Dao, Phu Quoc and Pleiku, Air Mekong is the ideal way to see more of Vietnam.

It offers 30 daily flights and is a realistic alternative to the time-consuming train and bus combo.

ASIA WINGS TRAVEL COMPANY

Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 9343 0888 Founded in 1998, the travel company caters to both corporate and international travel.

Services include ticketing, hotel reservation, travel insurance, transfer and visa arrangement. Outbound tours and packages throughout the world are also available.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi Tel: (84-4) 3 828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com

www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the time-consuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXOTISSIMO

26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 2150 9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 5555 Golden Westlake, 151 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 2735. www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

FREEWHEELIN TOURS

2nd floor, 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2743. www.freewheelin-tours.com Responsible travel tourism company offering intimate, bespoke tours that give customers a more “authentic” taste of Vietnam. Motorbike journeys, homestays, visits to ethnic minority villages, national parks, waterfalls and spectacular scenery are all part of the mix, with part of the proceeds going to a number of responsible tourism initiatives.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL

80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.

HG TRAVEL

47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa - www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

INDOCHINA LAND

61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small

knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam's people, cuisine, history and culture.

JEWEL OF THE DELTA

Tel: 01282 471716. booking@jewelofthedelta.com A cruise boat on the Red River offering cocktail and party cruises every week with free snacks, a free cocktail and free shisha in one of the VIP rooms. Private cruises are available for parties, meetings, receptions, and dinners for groups or organisations. A unique place to chill out.

LOT AIRLINES

R402, 4th floor, Dao Duy Anh Tower, 9 Dao Duy Anh, Dong Da. Tel: 3577 2202 www.lot.com LOT serves Poland and back three times a week on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. The flight arrives in Warsaw in the early morning, and because of the city’s location in the middle of Europe, it’s an ideal airport for transit to and from other European hubs.

LUXURY TRAVEL CO., LTD

5 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 4120 www.LuxuryTravelVietnam.com Vietnam’s First Luxury Tour Company, offers you carefree luxury travel so you and your family can focus on the fun, not the details. Challenge your skills at the country’s most spectacular golf courses.

Soak up the sun while being soothed by the sound of breaking surf. Hunt for high-fashion couture in the most elegant cities of Vietnam. Envision any vacation experience you want; name it, we deliver

SYRENA CRUISES

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action.

All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

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destination

OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS

BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 071 CAFES 072 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 073 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 074 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 074 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 075 RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE &

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

KOREAN 076 RESTAURANTS - SOUTHEAST ASIAN 076 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 076 RESTOBARS 078 ARTICLES FOR THE RECORD 073

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 17 COWBOYS

MUSIC HALL/LONG BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 6822 5pm to 12am Cowgirls, lasers, belly dancing and Filipino bands who never shy away from a good Guns N' Roses cover. Drinks are a little pricey, but part of the money is going to the show. Expect a lively atmosphere and the band will take requests, but 1980s rock tunes are favoured.

AMAZON BAR

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TOURIST BAR/CLUB 32 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem This newcomer to Ta Hien’s Bia Hoi Junction is an Aztec-themed three story drinking hole and dance space. Balcony on the second floor, which provides a great view over the beer drinkers below, and dance space on the third floor. CDJs and a promise of dubstep and drink specials on the board outside are bound to go down well among the area’s party massive.

BAMBOO BAR

CLASSIC FRENCH Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 7am to 10pm Set up like a traditional colonial-era bar space with dark wooden plank flooring, bamboo roofing, wicker chairs and handheld fan crafted ceiling fans, both during the day and at night there is a relaxed, timeless ambience here. The drinks focus here is on Martini-based and classic cocktails with a huge wine list and aged spirits also making an appearance. Also a great place for a morning or afternoon coffee.

BAR BETTA

RETRO CAFÉ BAR 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 9134 haimtc@gmail.com 8am to midnight This bar is every bit as quirky as the Czech moped it’s named after. Inside every surface is festooned with a medley of objects ranging from gramaphones to retro TVs. The rooftop terrace is an awesome place for a sundowner or a morning coffee.

Eclectic and like nothing else in Hanoi.

CHEEKY QUARTER

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 032829 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic.

Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late.

Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

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DRAGONFLY

DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem 93 Phung Hung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 4926 2177 11am - late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

EZ RIDER

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POOL HALL / LIVE MUSIC / CLUB 55 Ma May, Hoan Kiem 8am to midnight A potential gem in the heart of the Old Quarter. While it’s themed to the Easy Rider vibe out front, this huge two-storey venue is a jack of all trades – it has a bar, live music stage, pool tables, hookahs, a VIP room and a night club with a decent sound set up. Ideal for private functions and party promoters. Club stays open till late.

FUNKY BUDDHA

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ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Owned by the people behind Face Club, the low, LED-lit venue has the feel of a VIP room situated in a larger club, only it's not. While techno and trance are the genre's of choice spun in the establishment by live DJs, patrons treat the space more like a lounge than a dancehall and typically order bottle service and cocktails.

One of the Ta Hien mainstays.

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

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LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1943 3pm to late Often a bit dark and somewhat gloomy, “The Noodle” is still a hit with long term residents. With its all-hour eating options — ranging from cheese toasties and pizzas to grilled cod and bun cha — and its popular happy hour, this Old Quarter old-timer is still up there with the options. Between 11pm and 12.30am, local beers go for VND15,000 and mixers go for VND30,000. Friendly staff and talkative patrons included.

HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 01887 487 426 www.hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, English-style pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the

capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

slightly ethnic decor and one of the most amiable owners in town, Mao's is always a great place to start off or finish the night. Sing-a-longs and dancing welcome at one of the most popular drinking spots on Ta Hien.

HO GUOM XANH CLUB

MAY PUB

STAGE AND TABLE CLUB 32 Le Thai To Tel: 3828 8806 8pm to 11.45pm Just a few yards from the banks of Hoan Kiem Lake, this giant pantheon of a nightclub seems more at home in Bangkok than in the capital. With DJs, go-go dancers and an ear splitting sound system, Ho Guom Xanh is a great place to ‘dance’ around a table, if you’re willing, while enjoying expensive top shelf bottle service in the heart of the city.

LAID-BACK FIX 2 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0917 897630 A curving neon sign marks the small entrance to May Pub, which stands on the corner of Nam Ngu and Phan Boi Chau.

The pub hosts a laid-back bar atmosphere with old Hollywood photographs, free billiards and darts and low-key live music.

The menu combines traditional cocktails with offerings like Russian string cheese — a late-night brew and dairy fix. Wednesday and Friday nights are Buy One Get One Free for ladies.

HOUSE OF SON TINH

MODEL CLUB

LIQUOR LOUNGE 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6377 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class.

Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

IRISH WOLFHOUND

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IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 2212 6821 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA FÉE VERTE

FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 lafeeverte@hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am Meaning the green fairy — an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe which was drunk extensively in colonial Vietnam — understated lighting, a laid-back lounge atmosphere, a good music selection and ultra-contemporary interior design make up the mix at this downstairs bar in Hotel de l’Opera. Expect a good selection of creative cocktails and an extensive wine list.

Opens late with a DJ taking to the decks on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

LONG PLAY CAFÉ

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 9B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0914 339439 lpcafe@yahoo.com.vn 9am to late This quirky bar and living room gets busiest in the later hours. Down in the bar, plasma screens and an iPod station mix with a dance floor and comically named cocktails. Upstairs, there’s a cushioned living room — a pleasant space with a low ceiling and shisha. Throw in a dartboard, “sell and swap” book shelves, Jenga and some tasty toasted sandwiches, and it can be hours of fun. The dried buffalo “nosh” from Tay Bac in the north is a must.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

LOUNGE AND BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 3104 5am to 2am One of the few staple bars in the city that hosts an equal number of ex-pats, locals and tourists. With cheap drinks, funky,

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CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Lasers, pulsating trance, bottle service and nightly model shows. This venue is largely filled with flashy Vietnamese youngsters or older business types flashing their wads. Bottle service is a must, which is a little pricey, so if you ain't got enough money then you probably won't be sticking around to see the honeys.

PHUC TAN

ELECTRO GRUNGE CLUB 51 / 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem 6pm to late Hanoi's favourite after hours dancehall/ trance den. Throw shapes on either of the two floors that have regular DJs while dancing to rapacious electronic beats or enjoy the Red River's breeze and snack on a kebab as you catch up with all of the city's regular night owls. The terrace out back has great views of Long Bien Bridge at night.

PILSNER URQUELL

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EUROPEAN BREW HALL 10 Nguyen Bieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 2288 Modeled after a brewery, bar and bowling alley in the Czech Republic, Pilsner Urquell has an old Europe feel — particularly in the private rooms lined with glass beer mugs, thick cuts of dark wood furniture and semi-circular booths. With the UNmeeting-of-a-menu, customers can choose from goose dishes, noodles, fried apples, an assortment of cheeses and several other options. Perfect location for big gatherings. +

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0959 A bit musty and jaded, despite being one

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out & about of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches. +

Q PUB

BOTTLE BASED DANCE CLUB 61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0915 381180 qbuphanoi@gmail.com A glitzy, spacious basement club tucked away in the corner where Luong Ngoc Quyen meets Hang Giay. It’s a laser, mirrors and disco ball affair with high tables, hostesses, bottles of whiskey and a DJ — usually playing a mixture of trance and house. Runs a number of spirits offers on different days of the week. Ask for details.

ROOTS

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REGGAE CHILLOUT BAR 2 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem 5pm to late With a reggae theme, the French-run Roots stays open late playing African and Caribbean music with some salsa thrown in for good measure. Laid back vibes. A good, late-night, Old Quarter option set on a first floor. The entrance is next to the Irish Wolfhound.

TEMPLE BAR

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DANCEFLOOR / LONG BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6675 7908 7pm to 2am A relative newcomer and an instant favourite, located in party mile, Temple Bar is a good choice for late night fun. The long, thin establishment is a bar out front with decks and some tiles out back – usually hosting electro pop DJs or sets from the likes of Link Hanoi. Has drinks specials most days and is guaranteed to be crammed at the weekend. Popular among locals, expats and tourists.

TUNNEL BAR

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 11B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0936 063303 4pm to late Slim but stylish two-storey bar located just at the bend on Bao Khanh. The friendly staff can make a range of well-made and colourful cocktails. Frequent DJ nights and parties are commonplace at this watering hole that caters to both foreign and Vietnamese. Does an excellent happy hour with specials on Ricard.

WINE’S CORNER

WINE AND CIGAR LOUNGE 2 Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3477 9am to 1am The ambience at the relaxed wine bar near the Metropole screams red wine — the walls are painted a warm yellow, the exposed brick adds a touch of cool and the wine barrels-turned-tables are tasteful. Too bad it’s often awkwardly empty.

Features fine wines, cigars and Vietnamese and international snacks.

CAFES ALIGN 3D

POPULAR VIETNAMESE 1 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 10A Khuc Hao, Ba Dinh 7am to 11pm Popular with young Vietnamese, the Align cafes are always busy. The younger venue on Khuc Hao is hidden down a bamboo alley and has three outdoor seating areas, one of which makes you feel like you’re sat under a waterfall. The other two are on the roof, and from the middle of this embassy-type street, the sound of motorbikes is replaced with tweeting birds. 3D pictures on the walls of each floor take you back to the old city, before KFC and Parkson. Even to times before the French.

AVALON CAFÉ

MEET-UP SPOT 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6917 www.taytap.com Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.

LAKE VIEW LOUNGE 73 Cau Go; 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0801 www.avaloncafelounge.com 7am to 11.30pm Popular for its views of Hoan Kiem Lake, this lounge and bar is always busy. With comfy seating and balconies, the lounge and sky garden offer a pleasant escape from city-centre chaos. The smoothies are creamy and renditions of popular street dishes are spot on. Elsewhere in the eclectic menu, pizzas and pastas cost around VND100,000 and steak in red wine sauce goes for VND179,000. Classic pop instrumentals play by day, and come night, the chilled vibe is tainted slightly with electro pop.

TET BAR

CIAO CAFÉ

TAY TAP

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LATE NIGHT LOCAL 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 3050 6pm to 5am This small and personal one-and-a-half floor bar starts to get busy at around 11pm and is popular with expats of all nationalities, despite having a French flavour. Run by the indomitable Thanh and once called Le Maquis, the Tet Bar these days has a slightly cluttered feel to it, but nonetheless continues to pull in the punters. Open very, very late.

THE SPOT

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 1874 8am to midnight A stone's throw from Ta Hien, this barcum-lounge-cum-restaurant has all of the atmosphere present in bars scattered throughout the Old Quarter without being a dive. Enjoy a mixed drink, tacos or a Vietnamese staple starter with the occasional live DJ breaking out classic funk, soul and hip hop in the comfortable furnishings or on the back patio.

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RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communist-driven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on 'cafe street'. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

ESPRESSAMENTE ILLY

ITALIAN COFFEE 75 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 2065 8am to 11pm International standard, Italian-style espresso drinks are the name of the game at this undeniably chic chain coffee shop.

Boasting a wide range of drinks, including spirit coffees with tequila, and a small selection of pastries and panini sandwiches, the café’s clientele is a mix of tourists and Vietnamese who are tired of ca phe nau da. It is connected to a tour agency and in the central hub of the Old Quarter.

HAPRO CAFÉ

CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 6th floor, 38-40 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7984 7.30am to 11pm Take the dilapidated elevator to the 6th floor and emerge onto a balcony with one of the best views of Hoan Kiem. The big draw to this café is the vantage point — the drinks are a secondary concern, though there is about every coffee and juice concoction known to mankind on the menu and plenty of yoghurt and smoothie options too. Graze on French fries, sandwiches, salads and typical Vietnamese rice plates. Perfect for watching the city wake up or catching a sunset.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 6 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0444 www.highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm As with any chain that attempts selfreplication, there is a tried and tested formula. At Highlands it is comfortable seating, good Wi-Fi, unobtrusive music and a mid-range, generic atmosphere.

It works, too. The Starbucks of Vietnam, a French-influenced, international and pan-Asian food menu sits alongside the teas, coffee and cakes. Has other locations at 49 Hai Ba Trung, The Opera House, The Syrena Centre, Pacific Place and more.

JOMA

COFFEE/BAKERY 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 33 88 54 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6071 www.joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of “home” to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counterstyle service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels.

Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2010 and is looking to open in Ho Chi Minh City in 2011. Has a play area for kids up in the West Lake café and bakery.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0216 7am – 8pm A must-go-to place on a lazy day, Mr Chi’s long-standing patisserie is somewhat famous for its honest, home-cooked food, no frills-but-relaxing environment and sour yoghurt fit for celebrities — Catherine Deneuve ate here daily during her time shooting Indochine. Hot fresh milk, exclusive coffee, awesome croque madames and local dishes, too. Replace WiFi with a book and aircon with ceiling fans; eat in, take away, the pastries are great and the price is always right.

LA PLACE

CONTEMPORARY / VIETNAMESE 6 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 5859 7.30am to 10pm This tall, narrow lounge café with rooftop seating is a quintessential Hanoi spot.

The decoration is bright and casual and the all-day menu has food from both the east and the west. Draw with crayons on brown paper covering the tables as you while away the hours over coffee

or cocktails, and take in the view of St. Joseph’s Cathedral. Has some interesting food options including spinach fried rice along with old standbys like tuna salad sandwiches and coconut chicken curry. No MSG is used here.

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 6334 moca@netnam.vn 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don't let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down French-styled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

MARILYN CAFE

ROOFTOP CAFE 4 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Considering the amount of flat rooftops in this city, it’s a crime that most go under utilized. However, the top floor of Chim Yen boutique and Marilyn Cafe is home to one of the more pleasant spaces in the Old Quarter. With a great, stone’s-throwview of St Joseph’s cathedral, food and beverages, this spot can turn a temperate afternoon into something a bit more special.

OCHAO TEAHOUSE

TRADITIONAL TEA ROOM 25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 01887 785977 ochaoteahouse@gmail.com 8am to 10pm A stylish, two-storey traditional but contemporary tea house with great views of West Lake. Specialises in “precious” Vietnamese tea from the northern hills, handpicked by ethnic minority tribes and presented to the public by a passionate French owner. Well worth your time hanging out here on a lazy day.

PANACEA CAFE

MUSIC CAFE 25 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0909 061982 panaceacafe@yahoo.com 8am to late Slightly rough around the edges and with an artsy vibe, this is nonetheless a place that welcomes all comers. There’s live music four nights a week (Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat), but it’s not uncommon to find someone strumming away at the piano here at any time of the day. Friendly staff, good coffee, juices and cold beers.

PARIS DELI

CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish.

Also does filled baguettes and a larger café-cum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

SAINT HONORE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other.

The homely upstairs lounge area has

standard tables as well as sofa seating.

Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

SEGAFREDO

ITALIAN CAFE 36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1476 www.segafredo.com.vn 7am to 11pm Names of some of the world's greatest cities cover the front wall of Segafredo, an Italian cafe and eatery serving up some of the best espresso-based coffee in town.

Red and white decor, lifestyle black and white coffee drinking images and an open plan space make up the mix. Besides the caffeine-based drinks, also does granita, teas, shakes and modern Italian fare ranging from panini and focaccia through to pizza, pasta, salads and desserts.

STOP CAFÉ

FRENCH DELI 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9433 8am to 11pm Situated on Hanoi’s not-so-serene ‘Pub Street’, Stop sponges up the surrounding atmosphere, which gives the French delicatessen a relaxed vibe that avoids pretension. The spot specializes in serving a mixture of western, French and Vietnamese fare, along with coffee, shakes and juice. The venue is more affordable then it’s sister location upstairs, Café de Arts, and is prime real estate to nibble on some quiche and quaff a juice on a sunny day.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP/CAFÉ 18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street behind Au Trieu) 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3928 7715 www.thecartfood.com 7:30am – 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets, with a new outlet on Nghi Tam, which is more like the big-windowed coffee shops you expect to see in Europe. The Cart serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF

Picomall, 229 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: 6276 1004 www.coffeebean.com 8.30am to 9.30pm Known for the quality of its coffee and tea, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf has landed in Hanoi — in the form of an air-con, westernstyle drinking space in Hanoi’s newest shopping mall. The five first coffee shops in Vietnam started in Ho Chi Minh City, and this the first one in the capital. Hanoians are finally able to taste the beverages already quenching the thirst in 20 countries across the planet. New stores to open on West Lake soon.

THE DOLL HOUSE

26 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2539 8am – 10am This new café, which fills a coffee-shopshaped gap in the market for this area, has the feel of half green house, half designconscious doll house, and is a welcome alternative for when your favourite hang out begins to get samey. Focusing on fresh ingredients to suit the fresh design, the Doll House also has a garden terrace, and is open for party bookings and private events.

Enter through the shop out front.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re

sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

for the record

RESTAURANTS - FRENCH MID-RANGE CAFE DE PARIS

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FRENCH BISTRO 10 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1327. www.cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

MID TO TOP GREEN TANGERINE

48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

TOP-END CAFÉ DES ARTS

PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 7207 11am to 11pm This Parisian eatery with high ceilings is imbued with a laid back feel that comes with wooden furnishings and a nice bar.

The venue serves up traditional French dishes and boasts an exquisite rooftop terrace on Hanoi’s pub street that is home to fewer bars and more and more cafes. The place is owned and operated in cooperation with its neighbor, Stop Café.

LA BADIANE

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 4509 labadiane.hanoi@yahoo.fr 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night.

A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced three-course lunch menu.

LA VERTICALE

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3944 6317 www.verticale-hanoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the

DAVIS ZUNK & THE WANDERLUSTERS MIDNIGHT BREEZE If you're familiar with The Wanderlusters' live shows in and around Ho Chi Minh City, you may be surprised by how laid-back their first album is. Midnight Breeze clocks in at a little over 30 minutes and is as chilled out as it is enjoyable.

With relaxed, swaggering love songs like, So High (Now I'm so high/ Learn to love/ Leave lost love behind), and the loping On The Trail (On my horse I ride/ With my gun at my side/ You know I got my pride/ But I left all trust behind), this album is equal parts islandgroove party and backwoods moonshine-fueled hoedown.

To be fair, the band could play either of those locales without sounding out of place. It's difficult to categorise their musical genre — they're a little bit country, a little blue grass and a little Americanroots. In many ways, they can't be confined to a single style. Zunk croons like Joe Strummer, but writes more like Jerry Garcia.

Instrumentally, this album has a ‘front porch’ feel, with a lot of string picking, banjo, brassy guitar and slow, samba-like percussion.

Zunk's mandolin stands out on several tracks, but none more so than on the reeling Blues No More (Well, ain't gonna sing them blues no more/ Nobody gonna bring me down/ Walked in, now I'm running out that door/ Dust settles on that old ghost town). Baron's gripping banjo picking is wickedly utilised on the aforementioned On The Trail and Brantley's percussion is particularly on-point on Thai Fever.

While their trademark four-part harmonies are all but absent on this album, their instrumental mastery shines on every track. The album's title track, Midnight Breeze, is a bass-heavy meditation on the impermanence of love (Please, oh baby don't you leave/ 'Cause I don't want to say/ Goodbye again).

If this album is any indication of things to come, Ho Chi Minh City is lucky to have these guys as their resident psycho-billy, bluegrass-fusion act. — Charles Barnes Midnight Breeze is available to purchase on iTunes, and from cdbaby.com

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out & about up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

LE BEAULIEU

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm Classic French Indochine décor and subtle lighting give the Sofitel Metropole Legend’s signature restaurant an elegance rarely found in Vietnam’s capital. The a la carte menu pits classic French cuisine against contemporary Vietnamese cooking with dishes like Nha Trang lobster with saffron pot au feu, the pan fried veal tenderloin on a lemongrass skewer and the calisson parfait marinated with orange, pomelo and lemon balm. Has an extensive wine list.

SATINE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 satine@hoteldelopera.com 6pm to 10.30pm Designed for strictly dinner only indulgence, the opulent Satine provides diners the option of ordering a la carte or from one of the venue’s 12-course menus.

Lavish design, royal-styled chairs and tables, three private dining rooms and the option of dining in a glass-covered courtyard are all part of the mix, with the cuisine prepared by executive chef Ms. Frédérique Nguyen.

RESTAURANTS - INDIAN MID-RANGE FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3716 2959 foodshop45@yahoo.com 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.

Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

INDIA PALACE & DAKSHIN

78 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5995 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm India Palace is the fourth member of owner Ravi Kumar’s family of restaurants which includes Tandoor. The menu takes the cuisine of North India and combines it with a South Indian-inspired menu, to create a pan-Indian menu appealing to all. Occupying a large four-storey villa with unobstructed views of West Lake at the front, the décor here is traditional yet

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contemporary Indian. The fourth floor with sweeping views over West Lake is given up to Dakshin, a vegetarian restaurant selling mainly South Indian fare.

KHAZAANA

INDIAN/HALAL 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5657 www.khaazana.vn 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm One of the two oldest Indian restaurants in Hanoi, the menu at Khazaana encompasses the entire subcontinent, complete with heavier chicken korma and northern curry dishes alongside lighter southern dosas and uttappams. The venue is homey albeit harsh, but with quintessential masala tea, naan and raita to round out the meal, the focus here is on the food and filling your belly… or overfilling, as is more likely the case. All cuisine here is halal.

NAMASTE HANOI

47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2400 www.namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery

TANDOOR

24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 5359 tandoor@hn.vnn.vn 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indian-food enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CAFÉ 129

Tex-Mex, soups and salads going for less.

The set business lunch is three courses for VND155,000. See the website for delivery numbers and don’t forget to ask for delivery deals. Have an efficient delivery service, but make sure you ask for knives and forks.

BRITANNIA

FISH & CHIPS 15 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6694 If you want a product closest to quintessential British fish and chips, then your best option by an arm and many a leg is Britannia. The cod, plaice and haddock may have been switched for basa and sea bass, but everything else is authentic, from the beer batter and mushy peas through to the newspaper wrapping, Scotch eggs and vinegar. Has an airy, upstairs two-room dining area.

CHEZ XUAN

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4448 www.hoasuaschool.com Open from 7am to 10pm This restaurant, which schools and employs disadvantaged youths, has been popular for 11 years — as a grand villa and courtyard setting tucked away in the corner of Ha Hoi. Popular with business types, tourists and expats alike, who enjoy good food while supporting a good cause, mains like cha ca and steaks go for VND99,000 and VND289,000 respectively, and there are six set menus available which take in Vietnamese, French and Italian cuisine.

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21 – 23 Hang Gai Street, Hoan Kiem Dist Tel: 38285 333 littlehanoi@orientalstars.com.vn 7:30am - 11:00pm A tourist hotspot and one for locals, too, Little Hanoi near Hoan Kiem Lake has been going sturdy since 1994 — mainly for its central location, range of sandwiches, pastas and Vietnamese cuisine. Baguettes go from VND95,000 and mango salads VND99,000, not to mention the coffee at around VND50,000, wines and fresh fruit juices. With Indochina-inspired art on the walls and jazz in the background, Little Hanoi is a little escape from the chaos of the central lake.

KITCHEN

MATCHBOX

TRIEU PHUONG HONG KONG

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 1155 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5322 www.alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm With a real ‘diner’ kind of feel, Al Fresco’s serves up munchies-busting Aussie inspired food from a number of locations across the city including their original restaurant at 23L Hai Ba Trung. Topping the menu are the jumbo ribs at VND395,000, with generous helpings of pizzas, pastas, burgers,

IBERIAN / MEDITERANNEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 9052 lasalsa@fpt.vn 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanishthemed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and fantastic first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.

Western staff speak English and French.

LE MARRAKECH

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE Ngo 40, Nha 7A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Despite a two-storey indoor dining space, Kitchen is all about its leafy, terracottatiled terrace out front, a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothiestyle drinks. Has amiable know-your-name staff and a good delivery service.

MID-RANGE

LA SALSA

OPEN AIR EATING 41, Ngo 76, An Duong, Tay Ho. Tel: 0915 085305 Though it’s a bit far from the centre, the expansive wooded area, chilled out atmosphere and good food makes it worth a visit. The menu is well equipped to satisfy cravings for fish and hearty meat dishes. If you’re in a DIY mood, you can Grill Yourself a plate of meat and seafood or choose from the gourmet selection of strip loin, ostrich or salmon to throw on the tabletop grills. Regularly holds live music events.

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm Service at this “slow food café” is seriously snail paced, but that is part of the charm of this modest eatery with only a few tables and small stools. Popular as a weekend hangover mainstay for the greasy eggs with cheese, the café is best known for its not-quite Mexican food. But hey, when there’s guacamole, salsa fresca, beans and cheese, what can go wrong? Be sure to try the fresh juices, like the super-booster with beetroot, and the coffee with whipped egg.

CANTONESE/DIM SUM 317 Kim Ma, Dong Da. Tel: 3846 1327 9am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm One of the most underrated Chinese restaurants in the city, the place itself is not much to look at, but they serve above average dim sum. A variety of other Cantonese style dishes including noodle soup and rice dishes are on offer here, all at very affordable prices.

chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3747 0337 www.koto.com.au All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with

MORROCAN 88 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3710 0389 10am to 11pm. Closed Monday Family-run Moroccan restaurant in a charming terrace-fronted house close to the start of Xuan Dieu. Focus of cuisine is on authentic couscous, tagines and kebab dishes made with a mixture of local and imported ingredients, all cooked up by a Moroccan chef. Uses Halal meat.

LITTLE HANOI

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 3098 tmbhanoi@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Located in the grounds of the Fine Arts Museum, this classy restaurant and wine bar mixes attractive décor with western cuisine, all cooked up by a New Zealand-trained Vietnamese chef. Famed for its salads, good cuts of steak, lamb shank and its various pasta fare, the menu here also incorporates a number of well-known Vietnamese dishes.

PROVECHO

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912 223966 provechohanoi@gmail.com The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, self-styled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SPOON

ASIAN FUSION 15-17 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 5636 6.30am to 10pm An extension of Soul furniture and lifestyle store, the restaurant and lounge bar at Spoon serves up a fusion menu in a setting that screams homeliness and style. Asian dishes, seafood and steaks are among the go-to menu choices. Attentive and competent staff top it all off in this chic restolounge.

out & about TAMARIND

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0580 tamarind_cafe@yahoo.com 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat, Tamarind features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Breakfast is served all day and with Asian favourites, like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences, vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

THE BISTRO

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FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 4782 www.thebistro.com.vn A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

THE HOUSE

FUSION FARE / WINE 10 Truong Han Sieu. Tel: 6270 2611 hoangcuongfb@gmail.com The House, once Annie’s Corner, is one of the latest restaurants to occupy an old French building in the quiet streets nestled between Ba Trieu and Quang Trung. It serves Vietnamese food but with international twists. The affordable and eclectic menu ranges from local tenderloin steak to lemongrass tuna salads with a decent wine list and an ideal bring-yourown VND100,000 corkage fee per bottle of wine.

MID TO TOP GREEN MANGO

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WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 9916 www.greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm Sophisticated restaurant set inside an Old Quarter boutique hotel. Formerly a school, and now also on Cat Ba Island, Green Mango serves Vietnamese and western food, ranging from sandwiches and pasta to lamb chops and VND700,000 Angus rib-eyes. Buy-one-get-one-free deals on cocktails and beers every day from 4pm to 6pm and Lavazza coffee at all hours. With comfy seats and a soft setting, the function room at the back often hosts charity events and semi-formal get-togethers.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 8388 www.alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight The newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes — lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” — but fine imported steaks can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 8325 www.alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight With attentive service, tasty food and large portions, this place has something for everyone and has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. Also has a large and spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

LA CANTINE

INTERNATIONAL / CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3936 9897 www.lacantine.vn 6am to 11.30pm Converted from a wing of an old church, this upscale restaurant with extensive Vietnamese and international offerings is just a stone’s throw from the Opera House. Sophisticated but cozy, the salon is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and tea.

Expect about VND1 million for a set topend six-course meal and VND600,000 for the more downscale five-course offering.

LE PETITE BRUXELLES

BELGIAN / EUROPEAN 1 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1769 10 Alley 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 5853 www.le-petit-bruxelles.com 10am to 10pm An airy and spacious long-running Belgian-themed eatery with a location by the cathedral and a second out in West Lake. Although this is not the place to wash down your Chimay, Leffe or Duval with moules frites on a daily basis — the mussels are only available seasonally — a number of other traditional Belgian dishes fill the menu including carbonade, jambonneau and boulettes sauce tomate as well as the more Swiss-sounding beef and cheese fondue. Hearty fare in a nice environment.

HALIA HANOI

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 0121 www.halia.com.sg 11am to 11pm. Closed Sundays A secluded courtyard in the heart of Pacific Place plays host to one of the capital’s best restaurants. A two-floored venue split into a downstairs tapas and bar area,with a refined dining space located on the level above, the menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer, with dishes such as pan-braised Alaskan cod with sea winkle crust and the braised pork belly in shoyu and sweet mirin making an appearance. Has an extensive wine list.

MILLENIUM

TOP END

PAN-FRENCH / INTERNATIONAL 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 134490 Clean and fresh with a fine-dining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

CAFÉ LAUTREC

NINETEEN 11

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 cafelautrec@hoteldelopera.com 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 4801 www.nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Named after the completion date of the Opera House under which it is located, walk inside and a labyrinthine-like, barebrick wall hallway leads you through to the main dining area. With dark browns,

deep yellow tablecloths and a refined ambience aided by background classical music, the menu takes in western, panAsian and seafood fare and even has its own section dedicated entirely to foie gras. Has a 100-strong old and new world wine list that includes Bordeaux vintages and also boasts a cheaper, outdoor garden space next to Highlands Coffee.

PRESS CLUB

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 0888. www.hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm.

Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular first-Friday-ofthe-month party.

RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN MID-RANGE DA PAOLO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 8585 1443 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic.

Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000

DON’S TAY HO

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 3719 www.donviet.vn Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late A bakery, bistro, restaurant, wine retailer, oyster bar and top floor lounge bar all in one, this lake-facing venue is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger.

Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negra ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6991 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This welcomed eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with two venues in Saigon — one near the Opera House and the other in Saigon South — the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

January 2012 The Word | 75

out & about and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

LUNO D’AUTUNNO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3823 73338 lunadautunno@gmail.com 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian restaurant has been going for 10 years. It uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND60,000 to build-your-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space with over 35 covers and an outside courtyard, seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly photo exhibitions and opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6288 leo@mediterraneo-hanoi.com 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner. +

PANE E VINO

PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 38269 080 Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe.

Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

ZPIZZA

Floor 1, Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 5959. www.zpizza.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm Californian pizza chain in the now open in West Lake. — currently the only place to eat from this American pizza brand in Hanoi. The new pizzeria prides itself on its 100 percent certified organic wheat dough and different dishes found nowhere else, like the strawberry and goat’s cheese salad. Also serves up curry chicken sandwiches and meatball penne pasta.

TOP-END ANGELINA

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar) There are only two truly top-end, contemporary Italians in Vietnam and Angelina claims pride of place in this elite group.

This doesn't mean that prices here are off limits — take a similar eatery in Europe and here you are paying a third, which all makes a meal here a special affair. The carpaccios are to die for, the pastas are all home made, the pizzas are wood-fired and the steaks are chargrilled. Does a great three-course set lunch for VND520,000++.

Nick Ross

RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN

BONG-CHU JJIM-DAK

KOREAN CHICKEN B40 Nguyen Thi Dinh, Thanh Xuan Tel: 6680 1423 Visit www.bongchu.co.kr 11am – 10pm In typical Vietnamese fashion, Bong-Chu Jjim Dak restaurant only serves one dish

76 | The Word January 2012

it knows best: chicken. A light kimchi soup is served alongside the steamed bird mixed with cellophane noodles packed in a mildly peppery but sweet combination.

It’s simple — ordering options include half chicken, whole chicken, chicken and a half, or all of the above. Select the answer that best fits your appetite and escape from the ubiquitous boiled chicken on streets.

GIM BAB

KOREAN 50A Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3201 2989 One of the longest running Koreans in town, this down-to-earth eatery just off Kim Ma specialises in the Korean nation’s version of sushi rolls. These can be ordered either plain or deep-fried. Other Korean fare includes bibimbab and a range of barbecue dishes. The cuisine is brought to your low tables with floor seating and in typical Korean fashion, all meals are served with free side dishes (banchan) of kim chi, pickles and eggplant.

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday Sushi, soba, sake. Buy a big bottle of sake and the staff will put your name on it and keep it until next time. Dine at the downstairs bar or in one of the private rooms with sliding doors for an authentic Japanese experience. Although Ky Y specialises in rice-style working man’s fare, it’s hard to go wrong with anything on the menu, but the Japanese omelets, tempura and saucy eggplant dishes are perennial crowd pleasers.

IZAKAYA YANCHA

JAPANESE BBQ 121 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 8437 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Just a stone’s throw from Ky Y, this Osakabased chain does the same cuisine, but entirely differently. The small plates on the large menu are best shared among a group and with bottles of beer or sake.

The tofu in amber sauce will leave you licking the plate and the chicken with udon and vegetables is off-the-charts delicious. The tidbit barbeque sticks of okra or bacon are also great, but more as a snack than anything else.

SAIGON SAKURA

TRADITIONAL JAPANESE 17 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7565 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm This Japanese eatery might be easy to walk past without noticing, but venture inside and you will find a small but neat interior. The food ranges from traditional Japanese to dishes that lean towards fusion. Very reasonable prices, compared with other Japanese establishments.

RESTAURANTS - SOUTHEAST ASIAN BUDGET NISA

MALAYSIAN / HALAL 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1859 www.nisa-restaurant.com 10am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10pm A two-storey fresh looking Malaysian restaurant with affable staff and authentic cuisine. Difficulty in obtaining ingredients means that these days the menu is limited, but a nasi campur buffet-style counter in the downstairs space and photos on the wall of other classic Malaysian fare allows customers to choose what to eat. Think nasi lemak, mee goreng, roti canai, beef rendang and more. It tastes good, too.

MID-RANGE BAAN THAI

NORTHEASTERN THAI / LOUNGE BAR 3B Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8588 baanthai95@hotmail.com 10am to 10pm This venue serves arguably the best Thai food in the city. With Thai owners and staff from the country’s Isaan region in the kitchen, the place specializes in spicy staples that come from the northeastern provinces in the country. After a meal in the more traditional ground floor space, relax in the comfortable furnishings of the venue’s chic first-floor lounge.

RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH CUON PHU LY

BANH CUON 39 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem 6am to 3pm Put the warm fish sauce in the small bowl with squeezed lime, chilli and fresh herbs and then dip. This is the Ha Nam version of banh cuon (rolled wet rice paper) with the gio lua (pork cake) substituted for barbecued pork and bacon. The street side, flaking paint wall location may be off putting for some, but the fare tastes great.

BANH XEO SAI GON

BANH XEO / BUN BO 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem Tel: 01296 290015 12pm to 11pm A recently opened slither of an eatery selling — wait for it — a Hanoi version of a Saigon version of a Hue dish. It's a bit of a mouthful but worth it — for all its augmentations the banh xeo (beef, beansprout and egg pancakes) served up for self rolling with rice paper and fresh herbs are pretty tasty. Also does a sweet and spicy to-die-for bun bo Nam Bo.

BUN BO HUE

BUN BO HUE 36c Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung 7am to 4pm This is the second branch of the ninemonth-old restaurant on Food Street. Like the Tong Duy Tan favourite, which is more restaurant than street-side affair, the new location serves up the same staples from further south including bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong and nem lui. Authentic, tasty and cheap

BUN BO NAM BO

BUN BO 67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3923 0701 7am to 11pm Dressed up like an indoor version of a streetside eatery, this megalith of a skinny bun bo restaurant is famed not only for its northern interpretation of a southern dish that you can't buy in the south, but also for its ga tan (stewed marinated chicken). The bun bo itself, a concoction of sauteed beef, peanuts, beansprouts, white noodles and sweet and sour sauce, is one of the better versions available in the city. And the beef is excellent.

BUN CHA DAC KIM

BUN CHA 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 5022 10am to 7pm With the help of over 40 years of customer loyalty and repeated mentions in overseas press, Dac Kim has become the powerhouse of eateries serving up bun cha (white rice noodles with barbecued pork and herbs). The formula is simple. The mini pork patties are perfectly rounded, the bacon is perfectly grilled and then the portions are humongous. If you're feeling ravenous, the servings here will fill that merry gap, but if you want quality over

quantity, look elsewhere. Has a second eatery at 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem.

CHICKEN STREET

BBQ STAPLES Ly Van Phuc, Ba Dinh Perhaps the most well known street food Mecca in all of Hanoi, the lane is flanked with BBQ chicken joints from north to south. At the Nguyen Thai Hoc entrance, the food stalls boast proper chairs, while the venues at the opposite end offer stools and host much larger crowds. No trip to Hanoi or tenure in the capital is complete without a trip to Chicken Street.

Honey grilled banh my and potatoes provide vegetarians with savory alternatives.

COM CHAY NANG TAM

VEGAN 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 4140 9am to 9pm The set meals for one person or a group of six people make this a popular lunchtime eatery. Signs clearly demarcate the way through the alley on Tran Hung Dao to this casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. Everything on the menu is vegetarian, from standard tofu with tomato sauce to more obscure fake meat dishes. The walls are moldy but the food is fresh.

COM GA HOI AN

HOI AN CUISINE 1 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3923 3856 7am to 11pm A four-storey restaurant and café specialising in food from the centre of Vietnam — or, as the name suggests, the ancient town of Hoi An. It serves everything from the famous cao lau noodles and my quang tom, to bun bo nuong and com ga Hoi An. Also sells Thai and Chinese cuisine, cakes and ice cream. A spiral staircase, a second floor terrace and pictures of the ancient town top it all off.

DAC SAN HUE

HUE CUISINE 150 Nguyen Khuyen, Dong Da Tel: 6674 7917 6.30am to 10pm A no frills, ten-table restaurant easy to miss at the end of Nguyen Khuyen, just opposite the Temple of Literature. Specialises in dishes from Hue, like banh beo and banh khoai, all at local prices. The staff is friendly and helpful and the bun bo Hue is spot on.

DUONG SOM CHAO CA

FISH PORRIDGE / CHAO CA 213 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3829 5281 Serves perhaps some of the best chao ca in the city. This rice porridge with fish is garnished with a healthy amount of fresh herbs and, if you choose, strips of banh quay – the Chinese style fried bread.

The fish is boneless, which helps set this place apart from others selling the same dish. One bowl is VND30,000.

MAI ANH

PHO GA 32 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 8492 5am to 4pm Ignore the doubters, this infamous eatery serves up some seriously wholesome pho ga (chicken noodle soup) in a hygienic, shared table indoor environment. The secret? The broth, a perfectly rounded chicken stock consomme. Portions are big, too, and diners can order chicken on the bone or off and can even get an extra egg added to the soup for good measure.

PHO CUON STRIP

PHO CUON / PAN-VIETNAMESE 71-77 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh 9am to midnight For a dish purported to be invented by French chef Didier Corlou, it is phenom-

out & about enal how this wet rice paper filled with beef and herbs affair has so quickly been absorbed into the street food fold.

Dipped into sweet fish sauce with a touch of chilli, it tastes good, too. The biggest proponents of this dish are on Truc Bach — a row of five street-side eateries that also sell standard, quan nhau meat and seafood fare. There is also another strip of joints just round the corner on Ngu Xa.

QUAN 32

PHO GA / PHO BO / PHO XAO 32 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem 5.30am to 11pm A hearty, slightly salty broth accompanies the pho ga at this well-known, 40-year-old street corner eatery also lauded for its tasty pho xao and pho bo. It's a simple, typically Hanoian streetside affair here with red plastic tables on the street and foot-high stools. The soup comes with an accompanying basket of slightly stale but buttery banh quay.

QUAN 49

PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho 6am to 4pm A stilt-hutted street food eatery and cafe in the shadow of Elite Fitness doing a tasty version of the sweet and sour bun bo Nam Bo (southern-style beef noodles).

Ladle in the chilli and mix up with the beansprouts, fresh herbs, peanuts and sauteed beef, and you have a spiced-up, filling meal. Also does decent pho ga (chicken noodle soup) and pho xao (fried noodles). Has a semi-mezannine cafestyle space out back.

TRUC LAM TROI

VEGAN 39 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 6278 1848 7am to 9pm Vegetarians delight in being able to order anything off this more-creativethan-normal traditional Vietnamese Buddhist restaurant situated on a quiet street. Corn juice is the drink of choice here, as everyone around sips the tepid yellow stuff, and the array of fried tofu vegetable dishes makes you reconsider vegan cuisine as “health food.” Order an office lunch plate or dine in during the weekend surrounded by families and walls adorned with traditional Buddhist imagery.

WHITE CLOUD

VEGAN Nha 2, Ngo 12 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 1622 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm Simplicity is the key at this small but airy, zen-like bamboo-table eatery located behind the Syrena Centre. A rarity in Vietnam — the cuisine here doesn’t only focus on faux meat imitation — the menu mixes canh (broth) with a range of light dishes, Vietnamese-style salads and a selection of tofu and gluten-inspired mains. Worth a try for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike.

MID-RANGE CHA CA LA VONG

CHA CA 14 Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 3929 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm A funky wooden-floored two storey, onedish-only eatery on a street devoted to one of Hanoi's best known dishes, cha ca. Claiming to be the oldest restaurant in Vietnam (established 1873) the deal is straightforward. The butter-coated, pre-marinated fish is sauteed with dill and spring onions on the table and served up with sides of peanuts, bun noodles and fresh herbs. It's not street food prices cheap by any means, but it's darned tasty. Popular with tourists and locals.

CHIM SAO

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 65 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3976 0633 Situated in a turn-of-the-century French townhouse in a tucked away alley, the ‘whistling bird’ continues to offer some of the best ‘traditional’ Vietnamese food in the capital. Sit on the floor upstairs or enjoy seating downstairs, regardless this eatery serves up simple Vietnamese staples that are well executed and presented in a setting that makes one feel like a regal Hanoian.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 3 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4200 10am-12am Always busy, often hectic, this multifloored restaurant is for diners who don’t mind loud noises and sitting on the floor.

It’s best for groups so you can order an array of dishes ranging from the more exotic frog legs, buffalo and ostrich, to the trusted standbys; catfish spring rolls, papaya salad and fried tofu. But it’s the exclusive Highway 4 flavoured rice wines that can be taken as shots or mixed into cocktails that keep this place crowded.

Chuc Mung Nam Moi

KITI RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 38 Hang Hom Tel: 3928 7241 An unassuming establishment that rarely fills up, which means that customers often benefit from better service and the servers utmost attention. What the restaurant lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for with a large menu that is chalked full of reasonably priced Vietnamese fare and some western staples.

NGOC HIEU

STEAK / CHINESE NOODLES 52 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 2251 7am to 10.30pm Located on the corner of Hoa Ma, this steak served sizzling-on-the-griddle eatery packs no punches when it comes to getting your beef. Get the standard banh my affair and the imported US steak is doled up with meatballs, fried egg, chips and lots of fat. It's a cholesterol mess of a meal but really tasty. Also does bun bo Hue, Phuc Kien noodles and the Khmer Chinese hu tieu Nam Vang. Has restaurants at 349 Doi Can and 71 Tran Duy Hung.

NHA HANG NGON

CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 26 A-B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 6133 ngonhanoi@vnn.vn 7am to 10pm Large and always busy restaurant set in two colonial buildings. The courtyard is filled with tables and fairy light covered trees, which are circled by 18 cooking stoves. Here the chefs serve Vietnamese classics from all over the country a la carte style. Good for street side classics done well in the comfort of an airy restaurant. Of the 14 dining spaces, one room holds 30 guests. Open for breakfast lunch and dinner.

Celebrate the ultimate auspicious year at don's for success and happiness.

May the celestial Dragon bring great good luck to everyone.

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem Tel: 1355 9096 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake.

But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the roll-your-own cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi Tel (04) 3719-3719 or 0913 001 359 Email: donchef@donviet.vn www.don's-bistro.com

January 2012 The Word | 77

out & about QUAN AN NGON

CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 8162 sales@ngonhanoi.com 7am to 9.30pm Long-time favourite serving up Vietnamese classics in a large French villa and courtyard. Menu is huge, made up of street-food options and higher end dishes from Hanoi, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City.

Quick service makes it ideal for lunch and the array of options makes it perfect for newcomers to Vietnamese cuisine. Order loads and share, of course.

MID TO TOP AU LAC HOUSE

INDOCHINE / VIETNAMESE 13 Tran Hung Dao Tel: 3933 3533 Set in converted colonial villas and frequented primarily by travelers that unload in front of the establishment on massive tour buses, this venue is imbued with the nostalgia of Indochine, replete with chess boards, stylish fans and waitresses outfitted in ao dais. Boasts a large menu filled with Vietnamese favourites and much more.

CLUB OPERA NOVEL

PAN-VIETNAMESE 17 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3972 8001 clubopera@orientalstars.com.vn 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm Indochine elegance mixes with top-end culinary flair to create one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. Fine dining it isn't — this country's cuisine doesn't really lend itself to that type of cooking. But quality ingredients and a twist of creativity makes the fare here well worth the higher price tag — think creative spring rolls and lobster cooked up with a passion-fruit sauce. This is just the start. Also has a great downstairs lounge bar.

COM VIET

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 42 Duong 9, F361, An Duong, Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: 2260 8968 10am-10pm Imperial-era architecture, a rock garden with trees almost 300 years old, a beautiful lawn area and contemporary Asian-influenced international fare make up the mix at this quite unique top-end restaurant. The cuisine and drinks don’t come cheap, but then establishments such as Softwater are a rarity. Has both an international and a Vietnamese menu and is located by the river in An Duong at the end of Road 9, close to the Sofitel Plaza.

TRUNG DUONG

VIETNAMESE SEAFOOD 55 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0787 10am to 10pm There are two of these restaurants in Vietnam and the other is in Phu Quoc, the location of probably the best seafood in the country. Every type of ocean-breathing animal is available here in addition to an array of tofu and vegetables. From crab to Russian sturgeon and grouper, most of this seafood harks from down south or Halong Bay. The restaurant is set up so that every day is a banquet and you can pick your poisons from the tank.

WILD LOTUS

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du Tel: 3943 9342 www.wildlotus.com.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm One of the city’s most popular Vietnamese restaurants is a delight from the entrance inwards. Walk over water features and 100 roses and up the spiral staircase into subdued lighting, warm colours and a menu that mixes subtle, well-executed Asian flavours. Not for those who love the sharpness of some street foods, but definitely for those who have guests in town or business clients to schmooze.

Quite an experience.

Nick Ross

IMPERIAL / CONTEMPORARY 63 Pham Hong Thai, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 5920 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm After shutting the doors at its former location, Com Viet is nestled in the tranquil neighbourhood near Truc Bach Lake.

The ‘imperial’ staple, with its pristine décor and antiques, traditional bites and regal atmosphere, specialises in serving up traditional treats with contemporary fusion — think cheese wrapped in beef with a side of pickled cucumbers and a glass of red. Go on the right night and catch live traditional music in the courtyard and feel like a king.

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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SOFTWATER

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

78 | The Word January 2012

RESTOBARS +

DALUVA

CLASSY FUSION 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5831 www.daluva.com A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

Additional services include catering, BBQ rentals, playroom, kids menu, takeaway and local delivery.

DERRY'S

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IRISH / WESTERN / ASIAN 63 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0614 derryspub@gmail.com 3pm to midnight A multi-storey Singaporean-Vietnamese run Irish joint with all the Celtic accoutrements and drinks — think Guinness, Jameson's and Bushmills. Located on the lake, the venue also has an international food menu which takes in anything from Irish beef stew through to fish head curry, beef rendang, tom yam soup and more.

Has a solid local following and amiable know-your-name owners.

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh Tel: 0976 751331 www.etehanoi.com 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has

balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails.

For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

J.A.F.A.

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INTERNATIONAL The Clubhouse, Ciputra Tel: 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance.

They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 8388 This new addition to the city from the Alfresco’s Group is definitely the meatiest yet. In the shape of a four floor, chic restobar — which has a bar lounge on the ground, a restaurant vibe on the second and third, and a “boardroom” on the fourth — Jacksons Steakhouse serves of well presented plates of imported Oz and New Zealand steaks as well as seafood.

Of course, the large restaurant wouldn’t be complete without a large wine list to match. +

JASPA’S LOUNGE

INTERNATIONAL 23C Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 6555 www.alfrescosgroup.com 9.30am to midnight Formerly known as Jo Jo’s, this miniscule yet attractive space is first and foremost a wine bar serving up tasty, western-style fusion cuisine in an elegant, subtly lit setting. Black sofa chairs line the interior, providing the perfect place to park up and chow down. Part of the Al Fresco’s Group.

LA PETIT TONKINOISE

ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL 58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm Located on the corner of Quang Trung, this large new cafe, restaurant and bar is housed in a restored colonial building. The beautiful courtyard is liberally decorated with plants, fans, blowlight jets of water, and shade is provided by tasteful cream parasols. Inside, a non-smoking, airconditioned room is the perfect place to escape the heat. Western and Vietnamese fare is on offer, they have a huge range of wine, beer and coffee and they serve excellent fries too.

LE PUB

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2104 www.lepub.org 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele.

A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix.

The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events. Has a second Le Pub at Third Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho.

OLA DE TAPAS

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SPANISH 26 Lan Ong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 8585 2563 9am to 11pm Nestled just off the main Old Quarter

drag, this bar and restaurant daubed in the colours of the Spanish flag is the first genuine Iberian tapas bar in town. Sells a range of fare from paella through to tapas, a selection of tortilla and Spanish mains, and also serves lethal but tasty sangria.

Spanish tempanillos and reds make up the enigmatic mix.

PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

ROOFTOP

SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 1901 therooftop@vnn.vn 8am to midnight If location counts for anything, then here it is spectacular. With a 270-degree view over the whole of the city, the up-on-high theme of the Rooftop is used to its full.

The bar is pretty cool, too, with bare brick, sofa-style seating, glass fronted wine displays and a private room out back for more intimate drinking. Also does day-time office lunches, coffee and decent bar food.

SANDBOX

INTERNATIONAL / WINE AND JAZZ 12 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 5708 5.30pm to midnight Tucked into a quiet street close to Truc Bach, this romantic, Parisian-styled lounge exhibits art from up-and-coming Hanoi artists and is best experienced on the nights with live music. The menu offerings are rich and robust, from chicken curry to spaghetti and roast duck, all created to pair well with wine. Come for dinner and stay for the live jazz and well-curated wine selection.

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3398 1979 www.southgatehanoi.com An American-run casual yet sophisticated restobar on Food Street with a great outdoor terrace area, a shared indoor bar space, a chef’s table and upstairs seating.

Matched by contemporary décor, the creative food menu focuses on doing comfort food well, while a decent new and old world wine list and innovative cocktails make up the mix. Popular with the media and artsy set.

THE BOOMBOX LOUNGE

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OLD SKOOL 1 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 2888 This ‘Chill Lounge’ is not too far from the Opera House and is ideal for drinks against a bright backdrop. Its large bar serves up test tube shooters and the Party Animal Bucket offers a range of shots. Of course, it’s a café/restaurant, too and be sure to check out the owner’s collection of boom boxes next to the DJ Booth. Live music on Wednesdays and a DJ at the weekend.

LEISURE & ARTS LISTINGS

AMUSEMENT 079 BOOKS SHOPS 079 CINEMAS 079 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 079 COOKING CLASSES 079 DANCING 079 FITNESS 079 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 079 GALLERIES 080 GOLF COURSES 081 MASSAGE 081 HAIDRESSERS & SALONS 082 KIDS 082

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

LEISURE GENERAL 082 NAILS 083 PERFORMING ARTS 083 SPAS 084 SPORTS CLASSES 084 TENNIS 084 VIETNAMESE CLASSES 084 ARTS CLASSES 084 ARTICLES MEDICAL BUFF 080 MUSIC BUFF 081 CINEMA BUFF 082 BOOK BUFF 083

CINEMAS

AMUSEMENT BINGO CAFÉ

57 Yen Phu, Tay Ho A proper two-floor pool hall with a restaurant on the ground floor. Plenty of tables in good condition, great for a night out.

COSMOS

168 Ngoc Khanh, Dong Da This bowling alley may be small, but if you’re hankering for a night at the lanes, this one has instant replay cameras that will show your strike again in slow motion.

HANOI STAR BOWL

2B Pham Ngoc Trach, Dong Da Tel: 3574 1614 Plenty of lanes, and the zany colours add to the festive feel. A game will cost VND27,000, plus a little extra for the shoe rental. All in all it makes for a night of good fun.

QUAN TOM

89 Bui Thi Xuan Tel: 3294 47844 The staff at this karaoke bar is quite friendly. Large, comfortable rooms, and – their claim to fame – a vast English language track list, makes for a good night.

BOOK SHOPS BOOKWORM

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 3711 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

HIEU SACH THANG LONG

55 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7043 A large bookstore with mostly Vietnamese material, but there is also a selection of French and English books and even some literature.

XUNHASABA

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 4068 Often referred to just as ‘The Foreign Language Bookstore’, you’ll find a decent selection of both books and magazines.

Their biggest section is composed of ESL materials, but you will also find fiction.

CINEMATHEQUE

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2648 Not a movie theater per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

MEGASTAR

Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, 6th floor, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3974 3333 www.megastarmedia.net Inside Vincom towers, this big, westernstyle multiplex shows some of the latest English language and Asian foreign films.

The experience includes fairly wellstocked concession stands, comfortable seats, air conditioning and a booming sound system.

NATIONAL CINEMA CENTRE

87 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 3514 2278 Cineplex with several smaller theaters and an arcade. Movies are quite cheap, especially matinees. Be sure to ask if the movie is subtitled in Vietnamese or dubbed.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES DEMOCRATS ABROAD – VIETNAM

www.democratsabroad.org Affiliated with the American Democratic Party, like-minded and politically active individuals can stay in touch and continue to affect the political winds that are blowing Stateside. Hosts regular events for every major election cycle.

AMERICAN CLUB

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 1850 www.americanclubhanoi.com A bit worn around the edges, but the facilities are still useful and the grounds pleasant. They host frequent events that are open to the public. Wide lawn, volleyball and basketball courts may make the place worth a visit.

HANOI CLUB

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 The exclusive social and fitness club is located on the banks of West Lake. Golfers hit balls into the lake from the driving range and swimmers enjoy a lovely view from the pool. The gym is small and classes are not included as part of the steep yearly membership fees.

leisure & arts L’ESPACE

24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2164 www.ambafrance-vn.org The cultural arm of the French Embassy is very active in the cultural life of the city.

They both organise and host many functions – music, performing arts, film. Large French language library as well as classes and workshops.

COOKING CLASSES

ELITE FITNESS

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6281 www.elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

HANOI COOKING CENTRE

FOUR SEASONS SWIMMING POOL

HIDDEN HANOI

HANOI FITNESS

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0088. www.hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 254045 www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS

31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3715 0577 The well-known restaurant also offers one-off cooking courses in the kitchens at their Truc Bach location. Don’t worry if you forget some of the tricks, as the class includes a recipe booklet.

KOTO

Lane 52/28, House 9, To Ngoc Van Tel: 3747 0377 www.koto.com.vn This charitable organisation, which helps street kids gain the skills to succeed in the hospitality industry, also offers cooking classes to the public on Tuesdays at their training centre. Learn how to make some of the items on their menu at home. Pick up is also available at their Van Mieu location.

DANCING ASPARA DANCE STUDIO

137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 7916 Located in the same building as Hidden Hanoi, Aspara is a multi-genre dance studio. Will provide instruction in everything from belly dance, to meringue, salsa and bachata.

ROCKIT FITNESS

Tel: 0126 6257214 yurymiankovich@gmail.com Yury is an internationally certified personal and group exercise specialist who teaches at the gyms and provides individual trainings. Offers a good work out that incorporates jazz, hip-hop, reggae and African tribal movements. For Further info contact Yury directly through email or by telephone.

FITNESS CLUB OLYMPIA

4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049 For a monthly fee of VND170,000 you can have access to all of this well-equipped health club. There’s a swimming pool, tennis courts, weight lifting area, tread mills and everything else you might expect to find for a full work out, even if it doesn’t have all the privacy in the changing and showering areas you might be used to. Equipment could do with an upgrade, though. Also offers aerobics classes.

14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250 This beautiful hotel has a swimming pool for VND40,000 per day, and another VND10,000 for a locker to keep your pantaloons. It might be a good idea to go during the off hours, as it’s a well used pool. But if laps are what you want, the pool is large and, at times, quiet.

Tel: 01256 898069 www.hanoifitness.com Hanoi Fitness is run by Henrik Olofssen, a young Swedish personal trainer. No gym, no workout space, just call and make an appointment for a personal fitness routine designed around your personal needs.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

475 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: 01267 239974 (Arnaud), www.k1-factory. com Already with a well-known sister fitness factory in Saigon, K1 specialises in mixed martial arts and fight training and private fitness conditioning in a location overlooking the south end of Ho Tay. Run

by Frenchman Arnaud Le Pont, disciplines trained at this centre include Thai boxing, Brazilian JJB, grappling, wrestling, kick boxing and English-style boxing.

NSHAPE FITNESS

71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 6266 0495 www.nshapefitness.vn This gym with American Life Fitness cardio and weight machines, provides a clean, uncrowded environment and expertly staffed facilities with a selection of fitness classes for its members. Classes include boxing, yoga and groupX with both Vietnamese and foreign fitness trainers on hand to give exercisers advice.

Membership starts from VND1.5 million per month with no joining fee.

STAR FITNESS

4th Floor, The Garden, Me Tri, Tu Liem Tel: 3787 5353 This lifestyle, top-end gym in My Dinh offers massage rooms, steam rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis, cold plunge baths, gym areas, exercise studios, locker rooms, and a swimming pool. It is a great option for residents living on the outskirts of the city.

SUNWAY HEALTH CLUB

19 Pham Dinh Ho, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 3888 Very good equipment in this small gym, housed in a little hotel. None of the extra frills that you might expect at a larger place, but all the machines are running and well maintained. Monthly price of membership for non-guests is about VND1.4 million.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY HANOI CAPITALS FOOTBALL CLUB

www.hanoi-capitals.blogspot.com Hanoi Capitals don’t play. This football club is serious about their sport. The uniforms and attitudes alone tell you they’re no Bad News Bears. If you want to let your skills shine get in contact with Ricky at 0903 413339.

January 2012 The Word | 79

medical buff

HANOI YOUTH FOOTBALL LEAGUE

www.hanoiyouthfootball.com/english/home/ The biggest youth football league in the capital. Youths aged 8 to 16 years old come together to play regular tournaments.

VIET CELTS

www.vietcelts.com The first and only Gaelic Football league in Hanoi has recently added a women’s team. The teams play in the Southeast Asia Gaelic League as well as in tournaments all over the region. Bring a sporting spirit as a spectator or a player.

Call Gareth for more information: 0904 228629.

VIETNAM SWANS

SIX TIPS FOR A HEALTHY HEART IN 2012 As another year waits before us, we should take our hearts into our own hands. We know that certain factors affecting our cardiac health cannot be changed, such as ageing, gender — males are more at risk from heart problems than females — and inheritance, but here are the six modifiable factors that can be worked on to reduce the risk for heart disease and stroke.

HIGH BLOOD PRESSURE Be proactive. Get your blood pressure checked at least twice yearly — more frequently if you are over 40. Hypertension is called the ‘silent killer’. Often the first sign of high blood pressure is the heart attack of a stroke, which is too late. We need to keep the pressure below 130/80, ideally.

Any reading consistently above 140/90 will require medication and significant changes in diet.

HIGH CHOLESTEROL Post 25 years old we should all get our lipid profile done at least once annually to monitor changing levels. There are four elements to this test — total cholesterol, LDL cholesterol or ‘bad’ cholesterol, HDL or ‘good cholesterol’, and Triglycerides. The latter is most affected by exercise and diet. The goal is to get total cholesterol below the magic 200mg/dl level, or lower if you already have a

heart condition. In a recent metaanalysis of 38 cardiac trials it was shown that for every 10 percent reduction in total cholesterol there is a 15 percent reduction in coronary vascular disease.

If a low fat diet, healthy eating and exercise are not sufficient, then you can discuss with your doctor about using the range of medications called Statins, which are very effective in controlling abnormal lipid profiles.

CIGARETTE SMOKING It’s a ‘no brainer’, smoking will kill you. Specific cardiac risk of sudden death is ten times higher for males who smoke and five times higher for females. It’s bad news that nicotine is more addictive than heroin. There is help available to deal with both the physical and psychological withdrawal symptoms, which range from counseling and nicotine gum/ patches/lozenges, to medicine such as Zyban.

OBESITY A BMI of between 25–29 is overweight. Over 30 is ‘obese’. A BMI of over 27 will increase your relative risk of developing heart disease by 50 percent. Healthy eating choices and exercise can help reduce weight as well as reduce high cholesterol and lessen the likelihood of diabetes.

We should aim to exercise at

least three times per week for a minimum of 30 minutes with the goal of increasing our heart rate.

Check with your doctor before embarking on any exercise if you have been sedentary for a while.

DIABETES MELLITUS As we age, gain weight and become less active, our risk of developing late onset diabetes (NIDDM) rises dramatically. In fact, 65 percent of all diabetics will die from either heart disease or stroke. Good control of blood sugar as well as the other risk factors can and will reduce the risk of heart disease.

BEHAVIOURAL FACTORS Stress is a risk that is often hard to appreciate. It slowly creeps up unawares then builds and adds to the threat of heart disease.

It’s more important than you may think to identify and manage the stressors of life.

At FMP Hanoi we have doctors and a dietician who can help you tackle these modifiable risk factors for the heart. Monitor your blood pressure and cholesterol.

Eat a healthy diet, reduce weight to under a BMI of 25. Exercise regularly and quit smoking. Also, be sure to take time to relax. You will live longer. Dr WBMcNaull MB ChB MPhil (Cambridge) DTM&H FRSTM (London)Medical Director, Family Medical Practice, Hanoi

www.vietnamswans.com In true Aussie style, the Vietnam Swans footballers hold not only weekly matches and training sessions, but social and drinking affairs as well. Concerned just as much with fun as with winning, this club is welcoming to anyone who is willing to have a good time.

GALLERIES APRICOT GALLERY

40B Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8965 www.apricot-artvietnam.com This centrally located space houses art by some of Vietnam’s best-known contemporary artists, such as Hoang Hai Anh and Dinh Quan, as well as up and coming artists.

ART VIETNAM

7 Nguyen Khac Nhu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 2349 www.artvietnamgallery.com One of Vietnam’s best known and respected galleries, features contemporary Vietnamese art in all its forms: sculpture, painting, lacquer, photography and video, from both up-and-coming and wellestablished artists. Check their website for a list of exhibitions and events.

BUI GALLERY

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 8595 www.thebuigallery.com Housed in a picturesque French colonial villa, Bui Gallery is one of Hanoi's newest and boldest modern art galleries. Features cutting-edge contemporary art from Vietnam, Indonesia, China, Brazil, the US and Europe.

HANOI ART CONTEMPORARY GALLERY 36-38 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 7192 www.hanoi-artgallery.com This art space is home to a large collection of your standard tourist fare along with a smatter of more unique pieces.

MAI GALLERY

113 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0568 www.maigallery-vietnam.com Several floors of paintings, regularly changed, by some of the best known contemporary artists in the country, some of whom they’ve helped in gaining international recognition. Mai specialises is finding the perfect décor for both homes and offices.

MAISON DES ARTS

31 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 8096 www.maisondesartshanoi.com A gallery near the Temple of Literature with several floors bills itself not only as an art gallery, but a multi-purpose social and cultural space. Frequent exhibitions feature both Vietnamese and international artists. Mlle. Nga, who runs the space,

also involves herself in several other cultural projects around Hanoi.

RED RIVER GALLERY

7 Hang Khay, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 9071 www.redriverartvietnam.com This small gallery has focused on building a collection of traditional Hanoi images with a modern twist since it opened in 1990. The gallery actively seeks out talented young contemporary artists.

{musicbuff}

SUFFUSIVE GALLERY

35A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem www.suffusiveart.com Don’t be fooled by the signs hawking café sua da. Hidden within the coffee shop interior is a small gallery showing some of Vietnam’s newest talent.

TADIOTO

113 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tadioto hosts an alternative gallery above the bar and café on the ground floor. A thoughtful space containing rare works by serious artists questioning quick development or changes in societal norms. Hosts frequent literary and musical events, along with presentations of artwork that differs from what’s available elsewhere in Hanoi.

VIET FINE ARTS GALLERY

96 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6667 www.vietfinearts.com If you’re looking for a well-known name, and a high price tag to match, Viet Fine Arts sells work by some of Hanoi’s more famous artists.

54 TRADITIONS GALLERY

30 Hang Bun, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3715 0194 www.54traditions.com.vn The only gallery in Vietnam focusing on the antiques, artifacts and art of Vietnam’s 53 minority groups and the Kinh majority people. Has over 1,000 items on display and objects in the collection have been exhibited in museums both in Hanoi and abroad.

GOLF COURSES HANOI CLUB DRIVING RANGE

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3623 8115 A fitness club that also boasts a two-level driving range where the balls are hit into the water. No net means you can gauge your driving. The price for a bucket of golf balls depends on whether or not you’re a member.

LANG HA DRIVING RANGE

6 Huynh Thuc Kang, Ba Dinh Tel: 3835 0909 The driving range has two levels and a netted area to catch the balls. Although the facilities might not be up to country club standards, it is in a relatively convenient location. One can either pay a monthly membership fee of around VND2 million, or pay by the ball as you go.

TAM DAO GOLF AND RESORT

www.tamdaogolf.com Relatively new golf club near the base of the mountains at Tam Dao. It is about two hours from the city, but does provide an 18-hole course with a clubhouse and a spectacular view, surrounded by green hills.

MASSAGE JUST MASSAGE

237 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 6671 2249 www.justmassage.org.vn Aromatherapy, Swedish, shiatsu and preg-

Citing influences such as The Doors, Pink Floyd and Leonard Cohen, French quartet Limousine will be pulling up at L'Espace on Thursday Jan. 12 to present their own brand of rock-inspired contemporary jazz, which scales the depths of cinematic soundscapes while somehow managing a nod towards lighter, more melodious pop. Dynamic, intuitive and fantastical, the show starts from 8pm, and available from L'Espace, tickets are VND100,000, or VND50,000 for L’Espace members and students with appropriate ID. Check out the band at www.myspace.com/ limousineband If you're starting to suffer from Seasonal Affective Disorder with the on-set of winter, don't fret — there is some respite for you.

Synergy Music Productions offer weekly Sunday Winter Warmer Sessions at Hanoi Rock City (2pm to 7pm), featuring live music, DJs, arts activities, a camp fire and a barbecue. Entry is free and families are welcome. Check out smpasia. org for more information.

Renowned for programming some of the cities best events year-round, the CAMA boys are now embarking on one of their most challenging ventures yet — the opening of their own, brand

new city-centre venue. If their standard of events in the past have anything to go by, this venue is likely to be the talk of the town for all the right reasons. Watch these pages for an official opening date or visit www.camafestival. com for the official announcement.

FEATURED VENUE Tucked down a bumpy lane in what feels like the wrong direction, Chez Xuan is nestled upon an area of wasteland, which for a brief moment, tricks you into believing you've left the city for the countryside. And who needs walls anyway? This venue lends itself well to Hanoi's varying and sometimes quick changing weather conditions — it has two open spaces, both three-quarters wallless and airy. The venue has to be the city’s least claustrophobic building. While the space works well as an interesting wedding venue alternative, it really comes to life when the dance floor's packed and the bar’s rammed.

This year the establishment has been utilised by the likes of CAMA and Future Shorts, whose bands and films have attracted hundreds of revellers to the site. The food is good; excellent portions and reasonable prices, the cocktails — well, I can't remember — I may

have had one too many, but Chez Xuan is an away-from-it-all venue right on your doorstep. Chez Xuan Restaurant Garden Bar & Grill is at No 41, Lane 76, An Duong, Tay Ho.

FEATURED ARTIST Bread & Circus — aka Phuong Dang and Luke Destefano — are familiar faces on the Hanoi music scene. The pair tirelessly programme, promote and participate in Cinematheque's regular Cine-Music sessions, and can also be spotted performing at venues and events all around the city. Arguably the city's hardest working musical duo, the pair cite influences ranging from Muse to Fiona Apple to Tom Waits. By some miracle they've managed to find time to record and release their debut EP, which is no mean feat considering they only formed during the summer. Featuring their trademark blend of strong female vocals, elegant piano, drums and guitar, the group’s EP can be picked up at their lives shows, but for more information check out facebook.com/breadncircus. — By Debbie Clare Debbie has more than 10 years experience in the international live music sector as a booking agent, gig promoter and professional vocalist

January 2012 The Word | 81

cinema buff What’s on in the cinemas this month

CONTRABAND Director: Baltasar Kormákur Starring: Mark Wahlberg, Giovanni Ribisi and Kate Beckinsale A remake of the Icelandic thriller Reykjavik-Rotterdam, Contraband revolves around the underground world of international smuggling. Chris Farraday (Mark Wahlberg), who has abandoned a life of crime, is forced back into the game to pay off his brother-in-law’s debt. The legendary smuggler quickly assembles a crew with the help of his best friend and heads to Panama to retrieve millions in counterfeit bills.

Hits screens on Jan. 13 at Megastar at Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu

nancy massages all given by the hands and touch of nine visually impaired therapists. The massages here are professional and, of course, in aid of a great cause. Check their website for their range of promotions.

the frangipani flower, known in Vietnam for its healing properties. Services include hair salon, nail care and massages.

Details to amenities like bathrobes, slippers and towels provide a comfortable atmosphere.

HANOI AESTHETIC INSTITUTE

TA SALON

14 Yen Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3945 4548 www.vienthammyhanoi.com.vn Trained at the Tue Tinh Traditional Hospital, the therapists at this no frills, traditional Vietnamese massage centre use a variety of techniques including tuina, aromatherapy, ayurvedic and shiatsu. Also offer a range of healing treatments as well as not-so-traditional laser and plastic surgery.

THANH GIA

18 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 38 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem One of a number of foot massage parlours in town that has treatments focusing as much on the pressure points of your feet at they do on the rest of your body. Strong hands, unbranded oils and, if you ask, tiger balm oil.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 09877 18899 A small but popular hair salon that serves both expats and locals. The many repeat customers go back because of Dinh’s willingness to both follow instructions, or to be creative when asked. Services include scalp massage, shampooing, colouring and styling.

FRANGIPANI SPA

405 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 6329 2915 www.frangipani.com.vn New garden-themed day spa named after

THE MUPPETS Director: James Bobin Stars: Amy Adams, Jason Segel and Chris Cooper When three muppet fans Gary, Mary and Walter hear that wealthy oilman Tex Richman wants to demolish the Muppet Theatre to drill for black gold, the group plans a show to raise money to save it. But with Fozzie performing in a Reno casino tribute band called the Moopets, Miss Piggy working as a fashion editor at Vogue Paris, Animal enrolled at a Santa Barbara clinic for anger management, and Gonzo running a high-powered plumbing magnate, the muppet diaspora must reunite to save their theatre.

Hits Megastar’s screens on Jan. 20 — three days before Tet commences

ASTERIX AND OBELIX MEET CLEOPATRA Director: Alain Chabat Stars: Gérard Depardieu, Christian Clavier and Jamel Debbouze

The Egyptian Queen Cleopatra bets with Julius Caesar that her people can build a new palace for the Roman emperor within three months.

She seeks help from Edifis, who plans to build a palace covered in gold. However, if he fails, he will be thrown to the crocodiles. To assist him with this monumental task, Edifis calls upon his old friend Druid Getafix who brews a potion that will supply him with supernatural strength.

Screened in French with Vietnamese subtitles at the French Cultural Centre (L’Espace) at 8pm on Jan. 6

Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 1754 / 3758 2940 (Ciputra).

Hotline: 0912 267613 Multi-functional hair and body salon with a range of treatments running from haircut, highlights, shampoo, straightening and perm to hot stone foot and body massages, a range of facials, waxing, bikini lines and body scrub. With a first salon in Ciputra, TA number two is at the Hanoi club. Popular with both western and Asian expats as well as A-class Vietnamese.

THE HAIR WORKSHOP

49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5980 Located in Hanoi Towers, The Hair Workshop has a number of hairdressers used to cutting and styling all types of hair. The prices are significantly higher than they would be on the street, or at a smaller shop, but there are many people who refuse to go anywhere else. A full service salon that also offers such services as waxing.

HAIR SPACE

137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 127554 Run by an Australian expat named Cat, this is a small but comfortable and well-run hair studio located in the Hidden Hanoi building. There is only Cat and her one assistant, so be sure to make an appointment.

TRAN HUNG HAIR CREATION

ARMY HOTEL

5 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4946 Located near Reunification Park, Hung has a long list of satisfied clients, both western and Vietnamese. Be prepared to allot one to two hours for a cut and more for colour as Hung is a perfectionist.

FOUR SEASONS

HANOI ZOO

SWIMMING POOLS 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 2896 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL

44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA

4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI

10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN

Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

KIDS Off Kim Ma, opposite Daewoo Hotel Tel: 3834 7395 Really as much a park as it is a zoo, you can find Vietnamese families on picnics here on any given day. Strewn throughout, sometimes in curiously small cages, you’ll also find a number of animals large and small, all indigenous to the country. Also, there are other attractions for children such as a fun house, and big, floating plastic balls they can climb into. The One Man Cinema operates out of here at weekends.

THANG LONG WATER PUPPET THEATRE

Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Daily shows of traditional rustic Vietnamese carved puppets, animate folkloric tales accompanied by music.

This can be fun for adults as well as children.

VINCOM TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung There are a bunch of toy stores and shops for children in the mall area of the second tower. Also, near the food court, you’ll find an arcade with video games and tiny rides for very small kids.

LEISURE GENERAL HANOI HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

www.hanoih3.com This big, assorted “family” gets together

book

every week to go on out of town excursions, for hour-long runs along paths marked by flour spots, and with no lack of beer stops along the way. Drink and get into shape at the same time, and add some sight-seeing into the picture.

Emphasis here is on fun. Bus leaves on Saturdays from the American Club on Hai Ba Trung at 2pm in summer and 1:30pm in winter.

buff

HANOI LITTLE LEAGUE BASEBALL

www.hanoibaseball.com If you’re looking for a little league baseball team in Hanoi, this is the website to check out. One of the first, if not still the only, such club in town, their mission is to teach young people about the game, teamwork and to have a great time.

Practice every Saturday at Xuan Dinh Field from 6.15 to 8.30 am

NAILS FANCY SPA

26 Dinh Ngang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 4183 A small Vietnamese spa and salon. Prices are quite high, but the shop offers a wide range of services in addition to manicure/ pedicure.

LINKQ

271 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3725 2359 One of a chain of all-purpose beauty salons that specialises in manicures and pedicures. This place has a lot of business from word of mouth, so it’s best to call ahead and make an appointment.

THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA

57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 www.thucucbeauty.com This all-purpose beauty salon offers spa pedicures in a Zen-like atmosphere where your manicurist won’t be chatting on her mobile phone.

TOP SPOT

52 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8344 They offer a long-lasting, professional manicure and pedicure service for barely more than you would pay to get your nails cut on the street. The staff doesn’t speak much English, but they have an extensive menu to choose from.

PERFORMING ARTS HANOI CIRCUS

67 Tran Nhan Tong, Hai Ba Trung For VND50,000, see an array of live performances, both human and animal. Bears ride motorbikes, monkeys do tricks. The acrobatic performances are particularly amazing.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)

www.hitshanoi.com Hanoi’s premiere community theatre group has been entertaining audiences around the city since 2001. The amateur acting society both draws from and gives back to the local community. All profits from the bi-yearly performances are donated to charities in Vietnam.

HANOI OPERA HOUSE

1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 0113 www.ticketvn.com This French colonial building hosts a packed schedule of cultural events throughout the year, everything from the New York Philharmonic to cutting edge Vietnamese performance art has graced its stage.

After lots of thought, Truong at Bookworm reviews four of his ‘can’t put down books’ Last year’s Pulitzer Prize winner for fiction, A Visit From The Goon Squad by Jennifer Egan, can’t be faulted. Egan says she gained her inspirations from Marcel Proust’s In Search of Lost Time and HBO’s television series The Sopranos.

It’s about punk rocker-turned record producer Bernie Salazar, his kleptomaniac sidekick, Sasha, and a cast of recurring family members, friends and low-lifers — such as coke snorting, teenage-girlseducing Lou — as they move in and out of a series of scenes where they intersect at different points of their lives during a 50 year period. Minor characters in one vignette become major characters in another. As the stories dive back and forward with each having its own mood and voice, you get used to the chaos and the way they move rapidly across time and place from the 1970s into the future and back again. You even don’t mind that they’re told in the first, second and third person. The whirl gets you hooked. It’s a book dealing with the effects of technology on our lives and culture and begins with the digital revolution that transformed the music industry.

It’s a farce, a satire, and, at times, a tragedy. The last chapter is written as a PowerPoint slideshow that imagines a future where we completely reduce language into SMS speak. The goon is not a gangster harassing you, the goon is

time and the way it takes control of you whether it’s what happened in the past, the way the present runs away with you, and the probable, unavoidable disappointments that are to come.

Secondly, it was Rudyard Kipling who gave me one of the year’s best book laughs. I’ve never really liked the imperial attitude of this Nobel Prize laureate and especially his efforts on behalf of the British Government to persuade the masses to send their sons to the slaughter in the trenches in World War One. His later anti-war writings after his own son became a casualty are better but don’t really make up for the jingoism that made his early work blatantly prejudiced towards anyone with a tinge of skin colour. Even though I get engrossed in Kim, I get put off by the superiority of the White Men (especially the Brits) and unfortunately The Jungle Book was adopted by Lord Baden Powell to educate little white boys of the Empire in the ways of class superiority. With a seven-year-old nephew, I visited Kipling’s Just So Stories and read, among others, his delightfully funny and irreverent How The Elephant Got His Trunk.

And how did the elephant get his trunk? The tug of war that the elephant’s child had with a crocodile on the banks of the great, grey, green, greasy Limpopo River.

I laughed out loud and the child I

read it to just about wet himself.

My last two favourites are

by Barbara Kingsolver. The Poisonwood Bible starts in the Belgium Congo in 1959 when the struggle for independence was at its most fierce. It’s narrated by the wife and daughters of a fiery and bigoted American missionary who arrive in Africa with minds shaped by the racial prejudices of 1950s Georgia. The story starts with the missionary’s descent into insanity and the voices of his family recount the rape of the Congolese for the next three decades by the CIA, dictators, and multinational greed. It’s a real heart of darkness read, and hard to put down. Kingsolver’s next novel Lacuna is a compelling fictional story that takes in the love affair between Leon Trotsky as he hides from Stalin’s assassins in Mexico, and the larger than life artist, Frida Kahlo. It is based on the notebooks kept by an American, Harrison William Shepherd, from 1929 when he was 12, to 1951. He worked as Kahlo’s typist cook and eventually ends up as a casualty of American McCarthyism and the ‘Reds Under the Bed’ campaigns.

The lacuna in the title can refer to the glimpse we are privileged to get of a magically, special moment in history.

Catch Truong and his favourite books at Bookworm — 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh

January 2012 The Word | 83

medical THANG LONG CA TRU THEATRE

25 Tong dan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3665 54608 Head to this theatre, lodged on the campus of the Vietnam Revolution Museum, for a taste of one of Vietnam’s most traditional musical forms.

YOUTH THEATRE

11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hoan Kiem A few blocks south of Hoan Kiem Lake, this community theatre space hosts both music events and theatre productions.

SPAS KIM DUNG

38 Nguyen Cong Hoan, Ba Dinh Tel: 3483 50079 Face massage, hair care, manicure, pedicure, this is a one-stop shop for all sorts of comfort services and products. Facilities are clean and modern. Hairstyling also available.

LANCY SPA

SPORTS CLASSES HOANG CAU SPORTS CENTRE

59 Hoang Cau, Dong Da Tel: 3511 8030 The distinction of this fitness centre is that they have a large space, filled with a “number of different fields of different sizes”. Includes areas for aerobics, football and rugby. Classes depend, according to the season.

UNIS COMMUNITY EDUCATION

UN International School, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org The UN International School is located between West Lake and the highway heading to Noi Bai Airport. They have great facilities and offer a number of different classes throughout the year.

TENNIS THUY LOI SPORTS COMPLEX

35 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9461 This all-purpose spa offers the full menu: massage, nails, skincare at reasonable prices. Discounts offered to regular customers.

95 Chua Boc, Dong Da A wide sports pitch that also offers a swimming pool and a football field – if you get tired of tennis. Football fields are almost always crowded, but even for tennis it might be good to go during the off hours.

LE SPA DU METROPOLE

VAN TUE THANG LONG

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 sparec@sofitelhanoi.vnn.vn A five-star spa for a five-star hotel, this colonial-style centre of relaxation is pure luxury. Choose the genre of music you want to hear in your treatment room from a menu, select anything from themenamed facials through to traditional, Vietnamese-style massages, and indulge.

It comes at price, but when you’ve just got to treat yourself…

ORCHIDS SPA

34 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4862 www.orchids-spa.com Just a few steps away from bia hoi corner, the unisex Orchids spa recently one a VTV award for being one of the top spas in Hanoi. Treatments range from facials through to waxing, saunas and slimming treatments.

SANTAL SPA

112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 4686 Private rooms with showers, a beautifully designed interior, well-trained and professional staff. The place to go if you want to forget a busy work week, or the busy streets.

THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA

57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 Near Truc Bac, Thu Cuc is an all-purpose spa where you can get a full-body massage, a facial, manicure or pedicure in a relaxing environment. Both prices and service are comparable to the West.

ZEN SPA

100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9889 www.zenspa.com.vn Brushing up against the banks of the Red River, this Indochine-styled day spa hideaway comes replete with an oasis-like bonsai garden and peace and quiet, a perfect tonic to the chaos of the city. Has a range of five-element spa packages as well as just one-off facials and waxings and other treatments. Has a second outlet at 100 Xuan Dieu as well as spas in Hoi An.

84 | The Word January 2012

136 Ho Tung Mau, Tu Liem A little bit hard to find, but Van Tue Thang Long offers quite a bit of room, with a sit-down restaurant and a few tennis courts. Facilities are a bit run down, but a place to go if you want to play tennis on concrete courts.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE TEACHING GROUP

164 Le Thanh Nghi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 7236 9842 www.vietnameseteaching.net Offers not only Vietnamese classes, but also a variety of excursions and events that will help foreigners and expats to better understand Vietnamese culture.

Organised and professional, classes are usually sold in blocks, which you pay for in advance.

VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY

B7 Bis, Bach Khoa, Dong Da Tel: 3869 4323 www.vnu.edu.vn/en This national university also offers some language and culture classes to foreigners. Teaching standards are high, and prices are not unreasonable, at around VND150,000 for a one-on-one lesson.

YOGA & MEDITATION UNESCO YOGA CENTER

3B Dang Thai Than, Ba Dinh Tel: 3913 5497 www.yoga.com.vn One of the only yoga studios in town exclusively devoted to the practice.

Professional instruction with well-trained teachers, and a very low monthly fee.

ZENITH YOGA

3rd floor, 111 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 0904 356561 www.zenithyogavietnam.com A premier studio offering some of the best yoga, pilates and tai chi in town.

Kids’ yoga, prenatal yoga and meditation are also available. Professional instruction along with a peaceful atmosphere creates one of the most zen places in Hanoi. Drop in classes are available for VND200,000 and a month unlimited class pass costs VND1.8 million.

FASHION

LISTINGS

ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 084 CLOTHING 084 LINGERIE 085 SHOPPING MALLS 085

ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR BOO SKATESHOP

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 1147 This skateshop offers a variety of clothes, shoes and skateboarding equipment. Most of the T-shirts are made and designed in Vietnam, while the shoes and other equipment are made for export, often rejected due to minor defects. Staff is knowledgeable about Hanoi’s best skateboarding spots.

EURO FASHION SHOES

26, 84/16 Ngoc Khanh, Tel: 0904153041 While you may have to dig through piles of mismatched or orthopaedic-looking shoes, this shop is full of hidden gems in larger sizes, a rare find in Hanoi.

EURO SHOES

320 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem If you’re looking for a diamond in the rough, head for Euro shoes, which has a wide selection of options, many of which you’ll want to give a pass. Often carries larger sizes than most Vietnamese retailers.

HANDMADE SHOES

18 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5357 This cobbler’s shop repairs shoes and makes shoes to order. The staff speaks limited English, so it’s best to bring along your favourite pair to get copied.

HUONG’S JEWELLERY SHOP

62 Hang Ngan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 1046 A small store specialising in silver necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and pendants. While Huong’s merchandise is mostly silver or pearl, the staff will also make jewellery to order.

IPA-NIMA

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

SPORTSWEAR 085 TAILORS 085 OPTICIANS & GLASSES 085

THREE TREES

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8725 The jewellery on offer, designed by a Belgian expat, often features chunkier gold shapes with small, well-placed diamonds. Hidden in the back of the store there is also a display case featuring less-expensive costume jewelry.

TINA SPARKLE

17 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7616 An eclectic assortment of costume jewelry and Chula dresses are scattered among a wide collection of bags by one of Vietnam’s most popular designers, Ipa-Nima. Check out the seasonal sales for heavy discounts.

VIETNAM OPTICAL

138B Giang Vo, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3736 5505 This all-purpose eyewear shop offers free eye exams and a wide selection of frames. Usually there is at least one English-speaking staff present. The quick and easy service means you will be out of the store, lenses in hand, in an hour.

CLOTHING CALVIN KLEIN

19-21 Dinh Tien Hoang ; 61-63 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name then Calvin Klein’s lakeside store has got it pretty much sewn up. Underwear sits next to jeans going for around VND2.5 million and a range of quality CK shirts, belts and more. By Hanoi standards, prices are high, but think relative. VND5 million for an original, welltailored pigskin jacket is pretty good going.

COCO SILK

37A Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3747 1535 High-end silk clothing retailer located near the Temple of Literature carries contemporary looks based on traditional Vietnamese styles.

73 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 4000 Started by Hong Kong born designer Christina Yu, Ipa-Nima’s stores are filled with their one-of-a-kind purses and accessories.

Their use of colour, a unique design philosophy and hand done embellishments appeals to jetsetters and fashionistas from Los Angeles to Paris. Always eye-catching and trendy, Ipa-Nima accessories are tangibly timeless and sophisticated.

CONTRABAND

KINH MAT HA THANH

EOS FASHION AND DÉCOR

2 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3928 6556 Large selection of lenses as well as biomedic contact lenses imported from the US. But buyer beware, lenses in Vietnam usually aren’t scratch-resistant.

LONDON DIAMOND GALLERY

21 Nguyen Huy Tu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 4972 6327 www.londondiamondgallery.com Home to the world’s finest gemstones, master craftsmen and jewellery experts, London Diamond Gallery is among the most established jewellery houses in the world, with an international presence that spans across England, Japan, Hong Kong and South-East Asia.

LOUIS VUITTON

Sofitel Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen Tel: 3824 4977 This boutique offers an exclusive collection of the French designer handbags and accessories.

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

45 Phan Dinh Phuong, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3629 78574 The limited stock in this clothing store is made up for by the unique design of the pieces, which are refreshed by the designer every month.

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics.

Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-to-measure service are available at no extra cost.

HANOI SILK

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 3062 . www.hanoisilkvn.com Located on the ground floor of the Sofitel

fashion Plaza Hotel, this silk shop offers a highquality selection of ready-made items. The most popular sellers include robes, linensilk blend shirts, ties and jackets.

ISALYNA

1 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3762 4405 www.isalyna.com The retail outlet for local designer Teddie Tran, who believes that fashion is all about “attitude”. Accordingly, the store’s pieces are mostly basics that can be combined with a range of high-quality leather accessories and jewellery for a unique fashion statement.

KANA

41 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6208 Reasonably priced handmade silk clothing and accessories in a wide range of patterns sized to fit western bodies.

KEN SHOP

108 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6270 0256 A popular stop for silk lovers, this store is all about soft and light fabrics. Silk, cotton and silk cotton mixes in creamy summer colours or eclectic prints. Ken has a wide range on offer, from casual summer skirts to fancy dresses. A cute collection of toys made of cotton and imported jewellry and accessories are also for sale.

KENLY SILK

108 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 7236 www.kenlysilk.com Instantly recognizable with its two-pillared shop front, Kenly prides itself on professional guidance and high-quality materials from a design’s conception to finish. The shop caters to everything from fashion shows to personal designs.

KHAI SILK

133 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 4237 One of the better established silk shops in Hanoi, this store also has a satellite shop in the Sofitel Metropole. With outlets throughout the country, this household name is a great place to go for ready-made silk items. You may find better deals at other shops, but with the highest quality silk, at Khai you pay for what you get.

LUALA BOUTIQUE

61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 9899 www.luala.vn Close to the Opera House, this “concept store” dressed up as a spacious boutique and café is aimed at the luxury, lifestyle-focused end of the local market. Has clothing and accessories for men and women and stocks the likes of Vera Wang, Nina Ricci, Elie Saab, Paul & Joe and much more. Also slated to show contemporary Vietnamese art. Check out their website for latest arrivals and their full range of brands.

MARIE-LINH COUTURE

SONG

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 6965 This boutique, whose name comes from the Vietnamese word for “life”, stocks high-end linen and silk clothes in a serene store awash with the fresh scent of mint. Located just across the street from the cathedral, prices are on par with its higher-end neighbours.

TAN MY

66 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1579 www.tanmyembroidery.com.vn Located in the heart of the old quarter, on “silk street”, Tan My claims to be Hanoi’s oldest silk and embroidery shop and boasts customers like Hillary Clinton.

The three-storey shop offers everything from clothes and hand-embroidered baby pillows to sumptuous silk bedding.

TAN MY DESIGN

61 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1154 800sqm of elegant, modern space that offers one-of-a-kind pieces to add to your home furnishings or wardrobe. Located across the street from the other Tan My, one of the oldest silk and embroidery stores in Hanoi.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

25 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem In-town factory outlet for the Vinatex clothing corp. Carries items for men, women and children at low prices.

LINGERIE ANA MAI

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho This small boutique stocks lingerie similar to Parisian designers Agent Provocateur and Cosabella.

AUBADE

52 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh . Tel: 3822 9051 Pretty, lacy underwear imported from France. Carries mostly small sizes, up to a western sized medium.

MINOSHE

59 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem This popular store carries a wide range of bras and underwear. Additional locations in Hanoi Towers and Vincom Towers.

SHOPPING MALLS HANOI TOWERS

MOON

36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0737 Shopping mall includes international designers such as Versace collection, Dolce and Gabbana, and Roberto Botticelli.

NAGU

20 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, www.zantoc.com Walk past the rows of teddy bears and head for the small rack of clothing, which offers unique Japanese-designed dresses and shirts. The second floor has a selection of home goods. There is a loyalty program for frequent customers.

49 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem The retail space on the first floor of this complex includes everything from a golf shop to a hair salon. After shopping you can enjoy a cup of coffee at the Highlands Café or a sandwich at Papa Joe’s.

OCEAN PARK LUXURY MALL

PARKSON

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This large shopping centre located at the southern tip of Hoan Kiem Lake includes shopping options for every price range.

Bargain bins full of locally-produced clothing stand beside a Nike retail outlet. Offerings also include a cosmetics department and multiple electronics retailers.

VINCOM TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 9999 A shopping plaza offering a range of international brands such as Levi’s, United Colours of Benetton, Nike, Adidas and Geox.

SPORTSWEAR ADIDAS

83 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:3828 7190 www.adidas.com The capital city’s flagship store of the international retailer of sport clothing and equipment.

Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da www.parkson.com This Malaysian-owned department store prides itself on making the shopping experience one that is “more exciting and fun”. Unlike many of Hanoi’s retailers, this megastore is also appealing to those who just want to browse. Departments include men’s, women’s and children’s clothing as well as home furnishings.

B.BALL

65A Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da, Tel:3224 10780 bball.com.vn This hoops-themed store sells balls, basketball shoes and jerseys of the madein-China variety.

HANOI CLUB GOLF SHOP

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com A small shop on the first floor of the Hanoi Club sells a range of equipment to fulfill your golfing needs, including clubs, balls and clothes.

Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung www.nike.com With multiple locations open, and more to come, Nike retails high-end sports clothing and accessories, including yoga mats and water bottles.

TOLIA

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Also known as the “Russian shop”, Tolia retails overstock outdoor wear made for export. Brands include Jack Wolfskin, The North Face and Patagonia.

ZONE GOLF

Hanoi Towers, 49 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3936 3233 This centrally-located shop carries all the equipment and gear you need for a day at the course.

TAILORS CAO MINH TAILORS

250 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3594 www.caominh.com Located near Cua Nam street at the western-most end of Hang Bong, this established tailor with over 50 years of experience specialises in quality materials from Italy and England. The go-to place for top-of-the-range suits and shirts for all occasions. The shop is new and the service spot on.

CO

18 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 9925 Though this tailor offers both men’s and women’s clothing, the well made dresses displayed in the window and the range of bright colours and patterns caters mostly to female tastes. Located in the shadow of the cathedral, it’s a little pricier, but you pay for the view.

NGOC SHOP

seasonal collection of ready-made designs.

The owner will also copy clothing or sew from your own designs. Fabric can be picked out in the shop or you can bring your own.

MS TAM

Tel: 0989 098903 With a long list of foreign clientele, Ms Tam works from her home not too far outside of central Hanoi. She will pay a visit to where you live to take measurements and then bring the final clothes back a few days later. She also carries a book of fabric swatches for those who truly want to skip the shopping experience.

THANH HA

114 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Located in the heart of the old quarter, this tailor caters mostly to tourists, but a large collection of Vogue pattern books makes communication very easy.

OPTICIANS & GLASSES SUNGLASSES STREET

NIKE

VINATEX

11 Nha To, Hoan Kiem; 74 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Parisian-style clothing combined with quality Vietnamese dressmaking skills.

The beautiful clothes are available in silk, organza and linen. Also available for online orders. With the accompanying home décor and accessories shop on 38 Hang Trong, it is possible to live an entire life of couture.

111 Ma May, Hoan Kiem This small shop carries handmade embroidered linen and silk clothes that are usually less expensive than those found at the larger stores. The shop owners make most of the clothes themselves, so they will adjust designs to fit personal tastes.

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

64 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4747 This English-speaking tailor located near the fabric market off Pho Hue offers a

Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name, well here its all in a number - two of them in fact, 51 & 58. Not exactly conventional opticians - the rows of shops here do sell frames with lenses and have basic eye-testing services - but if its sunglasses with brand names superglued on top, here is the place.

THU HA KINH THUOC

134 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4570 Free eye testing in this well-known, German-trained opticians that also doubles up as a medical clinic and pharmacy specialising in eye problems. Sells a range of branded and non-branded spectacles and sunglasses. Located opposite the National Hospital of Ophthalmology.

VIETNAMOPTICAL

48 Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung & 231 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan Tel: 3736 5505 www.kinhmatvietnam.com.vn Chain of opticians, glasses and sunglasses stores selling a range of branded and Chinese-imported frames starting at VND100,000 a go and rising to over VND2 million. The in-store optometrist gives free eye tests. Helpful, English-speaking staff.

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART

210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart.com.vn

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

INTIMEX

22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO

126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

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BAKERIES DONKEY BAKERY

8 Nguyen Hoang Ton, Tay Ho www.donkey-donuts.com Founded as a donut shop, it now also offers a wide range of German-inspired breads for those who favour nutrition over sugar. A loaf of rye bread rings in at VND40,000. Donuts, breads, cookies and sandwiches can be ordered online and delivered to your home or office. The bakery employs mostly disabled persons and is dedicated to providing them with high-quality training and care.

KINH DO

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem One of the oldest and most well-established bakeries in the city, maybe best known as Catherine Deneuve’s former haunt, Kinh Do has been around much longer than any expat. But their breads, pastries and quiches keep foreigners and Vietnamese coming back. Extensive Western and Vietnamese menu as well.

LE CROISSANT

21 Ha Hoi, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3943 6707 www.hoasuaschool.com A well established and well respected Hanoi institution. Le Croissant not only makes excellent baked goods of all kinds, but is also part of the NGO Hoa Sua, a school for disadvantaged children that teaches them life changing skills.

PARIS DELI

6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 6697 With two locations, one by the Opera House and the other by St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the Paris Deli makes a good job of their breads, tarts and pastries. Both are sit-down restaurants, but are happy to sell you their baked goods over the counter, to go.

THU HUONG BAKERY

35C Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 3868 A small but popular Vietnamese-style bakery selling all types of sweets and cakes, luxuriously decorated. They also sell baguettes and sliced breads. They also deliver.

CRAFTS CRAFTLINK

VIETNAM QUILTS

13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 4831 Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

FURNITURE BAMBOO FURNITURE CORNER

Cnr. Quang Trung & Tran Nhan Trong, Hai Ba Trung This cluster of furniture shops offer lowpriced bamboo products from baskets and desks to drawers.

BELLIZENO

130D Thuy Khue, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3825 1343 The factory location of the Bellizeno bedding company includes a retail space for their high thread count sheets and bedding.

CARPET STREET

There are a number of made-to-order carpet and rug stores along Kim Ma from roughly number 239 to 299.

CHI VANG

63 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3936 0601 Located near the lake, this store offers a wide range of embroidered bedding and tablecloths. Items can be purchased in the store or hand-embroidered to order.

LIQUOR & WINE

UMA

BACCHUS CORNER

VELVET UNDERGROUND

DA LOC

CT 6 My Dinh, Tu Liem; 147 Doi Can, Ba Dinh; 210 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3972 7412 www.uma.vn Designers and retailers within the interior industry, each branch sells trendy furniture for modern living as well as interior design for all types Vietnamese houses.

Tel: 3716 0400. www.velvetunderground.biz This shop offers a range of ready made items, from bedding to hot water bottle covers as well as the option of designing your own item from a choice of fabrics.

The friendly and helpful English-speaking staff make shopping a pleasure instead of a chore.

GROCERIES

1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1325 This wine importer and distributor has over 250 different types of wine in its portfolio and is doing its part to bring a culture of fine wine to Hanoi. The main office and showroom is on Hai Ba Trung and an upscale outlet is located within the grounds of the Mercure Hanoi hotel on Ly Thoung Kiet.

AU DELICE

HANOI GOURMET

3 The Giao, Ha Ba Trung. Tel: 3972 0584 www.au-delice-online.com A European style deli and grocery store with all sorts of imported products for your dinner parties or a homesick night in. Their claim is to have the best selection of cheeses in Hanoi.

1B Ham Long, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3943 1009 Not just a wine shop, the long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

BETTERDAY

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

1A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7887 This shop stocks high-end duvet and cushion covers, quilts and tableware like runners and placemats.

EUROPEAN IKEA SHOP

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

18 Yen The. Tel: 3747 4889 15a Ngo Van So. Tel: 3943 7226 28 Xuan Dieu. Tel: 3719 8337 #6, Lane 1, Au Co. Tel: 3718 6271 Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu. Tel: 3823 8749 The retail face of wine distributor Celliers d’Asia, this small wine shop is in the French Quarter, adjacent to the Metropole.

The focus here is on quality and the portfolio ranges from French to Chilean to the barrage of wines coming from Down Under. Delivery service available.

35 Ngo Thanh Mie, Dong Da This tiny shop carries a small collection of IKEA brand furniture, but can order more from the catalogue.

GRAND BOIS

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This high-end wooden furniture store located on the first floor of Hanoi Towers has offered best-selling designs for a decade. The classic pieces are mostly constructed out of dark wood and are complemented with cream-coloured linen lampshades and cushions.

LA CASA

86 | The Word January 2012

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and home-made foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the in-house kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.

COTYLEDON

INDIGENOUS

38 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 0436 www.marie-linh-design.com This newly-opened shop sells specially designed decorative objects in traditional Vietnamese lacquer and pottery in unique styles. It also retails small accessories that are easy to pack in your suitcase. Items are sold in the shop and online.

6 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 6181 This home furnishings shop specialises in unusual lamps and hand-embroidered pillow covers, but also carries other colorful bric-a-brac and clothing. Free delivery of all purchases.

THE OASIS

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

HANOI MOMENT

MARIE LINH HOME DECOR

MOSAIQUE

espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.

114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 6258 3511 Specialising in organic and fair trade coffee, tea and cashews, this shop also offers an array of products for mindful living. Find perfumes and candles by Dame Clemence, as well as eco-friendly laundry detergent, all natural jams, and virgin coconut oil in this boutique food shop.

43 Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3843 7710 www.craftlink.com.vn This non-profit organisation helps traditional artisans seek new markets. for sale in the retail space include handmade textiles from the northern provinces.

36 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0977 799911 A crafts and home furnishings shop stocked by the Hold The Future organisation, which helps disabled and underprivileged children in Hanoi and northern provinces.

156 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7264 Nestled in the heart of the old quarter, Maroon sells accent pieces to brighten up any household: lacquer picture frames, lamps, and silk bedding.

101 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7170 This shop makes sifting through lacquer kitchenware and accessories easy. While its stock may not differ from the stores next door, the display is less overwhelming.

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 4084 2 Bao Khanh lane, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 9616 www.lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware.

The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

MAI LONG

71 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3822 5393 This shop sells material for curtains and window blinds. They make house calls to measure and install.

19/298 Ngoc Lam, Gia Lam. Tel: 3873 6079 www.classicfinefoods.com The place to go for imported foods such as foie gras, high-quality meats, pastas and dairy products. Although they specialise in the wholesale market, they occasionally do retail sales.

HUNG LONG MINIMART

71B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 6220 This little store around Westlake has the feeling of one of those small ethnic markets you find in London or New York, but the ethnicity is Western. Reasonably priced canned foods, potato chips, cookies and other snacks that may be difficult to find elsewhere in the city.

PUNTO ITALIA

62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 6258 3510 www.puntoitalia.asia Punto Italia is an authentic Italian supplier importing the finest espresso coffee as well as Italian coffee machines for professional, home and office use. Real Italian granita, ice-cream and much more is now available in Vietnam with the support of a professional and friendly service.

VINE CELLAR DOOR

7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories,

RED APRON

VINE CELLAR DOOR

7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.

MARKETS CHO HOM

Corner of Pho Hue and Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung One of the best places in the city to buy fabrics. Found a tailor, want to make clothes? Here you’ll find everything you need, stuff imported and domestic, silk, cotton, linen. Also any sewing materials you might need can be found here.

CHO SINH VIEN

Xuan Thuy and Pham Hung, Cau Giay The Student Market, across from Hanoi

National University, caters to students.

Mostly durable goods, clothing and accessories here. As far as style and size of clothes, selection is a bit limited, but if you take your time you may find something worth the trouble.

The market, as well as the food stalls surrounding it, are open quite late.

Prices are also tailored for the student budget.

DONG XUAN Dong Xuan, Hoan Kiem

MEDICAL LISTINGS

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE DR. TRAN HUONG

The biggest market of it’s kind in Hanoi, Dong Xuan is filled with pretty much any durable good you can think of: from jeans to jewelry, from leaf tea to livestock. The indoor market spills out onto the streets, which can also serve a good place to get a meal pretty much any time.

80 Ngo Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0913 540907 www.drhuong.tk Dr. Tran Huong is well-known in Hanoi thanks to his long experience as both a practitioner of traditional Chinese and Western medicine. The clinic treats severe and chronic pain with a variety of drugfree methods, including acupuncture, acupressure, cupping and moxibustion.

FLOWER MARKET

YAKUSHI CENTER

Au Co, East Side of Street The name can be a little deceptive, since it’s more of a distribution point, where flowers come in to vendors all over the city.

Of course you can buy directly from sellers here at a good price, provided you’re up late enoug`h. The other reason to come is for the pho stands. The market begins late at night and continues well past dawn.

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS A DONG PHOTO CO

128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0732 This camera shop retails a wide range of cameras, including both analogue and DSLR models, as well as film and accessories like flashes and lenses.

ALPHA LAPTOP

95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418 This laptop retail and repair shop also carries camera accessories and cases.

FUONG MAY ANH

5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568 This small store has a wide selection of Viet Nam-produced Pentax cameras. Also has a selection of imported lenses.

NGUYEN CAU

1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem This camera shop overlooking the lake develops both digital and film prints. Services include photo mounting and passport photos.

COMPUTERS AND ELECTRONICS DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772 This large electronics retailer deals in computers, printers, as well as external storage devices.

HI-TECH USA

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 6261 A small, but good all-around electronics store, selling all kinds of electronics. Speakers, I-Pods, headphones, cables and phone accessories.

Many name-brands.

PICO PLAZA

35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This is a super-sized electronics shop with each floor devoted to a specific kind of electronics.

You’ll be able to find pretty much anything you’re looking for here, from a phone to a computer to a washing machine.

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES

28B Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0983 011081 This service company can help with a just about any computer-related task. Computer repairs, set up, Wi-Fi, design, networking and development.

On-site and off-site service, and free quotes.

VIETSAD

34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3747 8771 Located on bustling “computer street”, this shop offers a range of computer accessories including keyboards and USB drives. They also do computer and laptop repair.

Lane 28, No 6, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1971 The centre offers such services as acupuncture, massage and traditional Chinese medicine. One of their specialties is the hot rock massage. Run by Dr. Thuy, a qualified practitioner, the Yakushi Center has a clean and relaxing environment and takes a holistic approach to health, designed to take care of both body and mind.

COSMETICS PARKSON

Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da One of the newer malls in the city, Malaysian-owned Parkson offers international name brand cosmetics. For those days when you feel like treating yourself, do your shopping in a real mall atmosphere.

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Stop here for everything from moisturizer to lipstick before heading upstairs to continue the shopping trip. Keep in mind, imported cosmetics don’t come cheap.

COUNSELLING INTERNATIONAL SOS VIETNAM, LTD. 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: 3934 0666 www.internationalsos.com In addition to emergency healthcare, the clinic also offers consultations by in-house specialists, full counselling and psychotherapy services. Call to make an appointment.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Van Phuc Compound, 298 I Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3843 0748 (24 hours) www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice provides psychotherapy and nutrition counselling services by in-house specialists. For more information or to book an appointment, please call the clinic.

COSMETIC SURGERY NEW LIFE CLINIC

6 Nguyen Thi Thap, Khu do thi moi Trung Hoa, Nhan Chinh, Tel: 6261 6166 www.newlifevietnam.comA small clinic that offers cosmetic dental work, skin treatments and minor cosmetic surgery.

The on site doctor, Ms. Ha, was trained at the University of Southern California.

DENTAL AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC

3 Nguyen Du, Dong Da Tel: 3944 5216 www.nhahoaucchau.com A clinic with modern facilities and internationally trained dentists. The prices here are more than competitive than the other international dental clinics in town.

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL

95 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh Tel: 3716 3972 The dental practice is located on the first

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floor of this well-organised health clinic.

The waiting time is short and the doctors competent.

1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

ONE DENTAL

No 8, Lane 27, Xuan Dieu,Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6168 Providing quality dentistry in a calm, relaxing environment where patients can enjoy the dental experience. Has an attentive and experienced mixed foreign and Vietnamese dental team who are there at all times to assist with any questions or concerns.

PEACE DENTAL CLINIC

51a Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3715 2286 www.peaceclinic.biz Established in 2001, it is run by an American dentist named Frederick. The clinic has a number of dentists trained in such places as Japan, Denmark and the Czech Republic – so the doctors are also fluent in many languages.

INTERNATIONAL SOS

1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: 3934 0666 24-hour emergency service with pricey, but international quality emergency and routine dental services. This is the place to go when your wisdom tooth needs pulling in the middle of the night, or you fall down and break a tooth. Competent doctors and fast service.

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho District, Hanoi Tel: 3710 0555, www.westcoastinternational.

The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who share a vision to deliver modern, highlevel dental services throughout Vietnam.

From the waiting room to the chair, the clinic is designed to provide the highest quality technology, comfort and afterservice care to patients.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3843 0748 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

FMP PEDIATRIC UNIT

Van Phuc Compound, 298 D Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 5222 fmpkidshanoi@vietnammedicalpractice.com At the new Pediatric Unit of the Family Medical Practice Hanoi, services include routine newborn and well-child check-ups, updated immunizations and vaccinations, out-patient treatment and follow-up.

FMP’s pediatric specialists provide professional consultancy for every milestone in your child’s life, from infancy to adolescence.

FRENCH HOSPITAL

1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da Tel: 3577 1100 This was the first international hospital created in Hanoi, and still viewed by some as the gold standard for medical treatment. Offers everything from standard medical and preventative care to surgical procedures. Full-service hospital that has both doctors and staff that speak good French and English.

PHARMACIES H CLINIC

24T 1 Hoang Dao Thuy, Cau Giay Tel: 6251 2835 A clinic with a very large pharmacy that can fill pretty much any prescription you get in Hanoi. They also offer minor medical consultations.

NHA THUA VINH PHUC

625 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh While it appears to be your basic street pharmacy, this small shop front stocks some hard-to-find medicine.

SUPPLEMENTS AMEVITA SUPPLEMENTS

Tel: 3759 2515 www.amevita.com.vn Sells high quality vitamins and supplements imported from the USA including multivitamins, probiotics, joint care, herbals, fitness and anti-aging products. Free delivery in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Available online and at select retailers.

ULTIMATE NUTRITION

Hotline: 0917 295091 www.allsportvietnam.com Protein supplements, high quality vitamins, testosterone, muscle gain and fat loss supplements for those looking for professional sports nutrition to help their exercise or training regime. Call the hotline for free delivery to your home or office.

VETS ANIMAL CARE

16 ngo 424 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 2246 1946 / 0978 776099 www.phongkhamthuy.com Locally-run clinic specialising in treating cats and dogs as well as providing a range of pet-care accessories, from animal food to clothing, toys and much more.

ASIAN VETERINARY & LIVESTOCK SERVICES (ASVELIS) 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3178 2779 www.asvelis.com English, French and Vietnamesespeaking veterinarian providing a range of medical services as well as grooming, boarding and certification for pet import and export. Also sells a range of pets toys as well as other products.

DR. BAO, MOBILE VETERINARIAN

Tel: 0903 223217 vetdoctorvn@yahoo.com On-call, English-speaking veterinarian who does the rounds in Hanoi. Well-respected, knowledgeable and, according to the feedback, very funny.

INTERNATIONAL LABORATORY & VETERINARY SERVICES

31 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho District Tel: 3719 9994 www.vetsinvietnam.com A Vietnamese-owned small-animal veterinary clinic with English-speaking vets. Offers a range of healthcare and laboratory services as well as a selection of products for all animal needs.

Products can be ordered online via their website.

January 2012 The Word | 87

Tiêng viêt MỘT HỒNG KHÔNG KHÁC / PHONG PHÚ NHỮNG MÓN CHAY

88 | The Word January 2012

MỘT HỒNG KÔNG KHÁC Söëng úã thaânh phöë thuöåc àõa Anh cuä chó caách Saâi Goân möåt vaâi giúâ, Liz Moskowitz khuyïn chuáng ta nïn traánh nhûäng àiïím toaân khaách du lõch vaâ nhòn vaâo khña caånh khaác cuãa möåt thaânh phöë khöng bõ boá heåp vïì tû tûúãng vúái nhûäng toâa nhaâ thùèng àûáng.

AÃnh búãi Liz Moskowitz

N

CAO CHÓT VÓT Quang cảnh của một tòa nhà từ tầng thượng của Học Viện Thiết Kế Hồng Kông ở Tiu Keng Leng

hòn trïn baãn àöì thïë giúái, Höìng Köng thûúâng àûúåc thïí hiïån qua möåt dêëu chêëm nhoã xñu, vaâ àöi khi laâ khöng coá trïn baãn àöì. Nhûäng thaânh phöë khaác röång lúán hún úã Ðöng Nam AÁ coá veã nhû laâ àiïím àïën hêëp dêîn hún àöëi vúái nhûäng du khaách khöng biïët, nhûng baãn àöì, nhû têët caã chuáng ta àïìu biïët khöng phaãi luác naâo cuäng phaãn aánh chñnh xaác hiïån thûåc.

Höìng Köng coá möåt diïån tñch nhoã beá nhûng buâ laåi laâ möåt lõch sûã thuá võ. Sau 156 nùm cai trõ búãi ngûúâi Anh, ngaây nay Höìng Köng laâ möåt àùåc khu haânh chñnh cuãa Trung Quöëc; quaá khûá aãnh hûúãng tûâ hai nïìn vùn hoáa àoá taåo nïn möåt hiïån taåi àa daång.

Nhûäng phong tuåc Trung Hoa hoâa quyïån vúái têåp quaán Anh taåo nïn möåt Höìng Köng àùåc biïåt caã vïì àõa lyá vaâ tû tûúãng maâ baån seä khöng tòm thêëy úã àêu khaác trïn thïë giúái, caã úã àöng hay têy.

Haäy laâm nhûäng thûá khaác vúái viïåc chaåy àua àïën Ðónh Thaái Bònh (Victoria Peak) hay hoâa vaâo àaám àöng àöí döìn vïì Disneyland.

Baån haäy cöë gùæng hïët sûác coá thïí àïí bûúác ra khoãi voâng xoaáy àoá vaâ luön cêín troång, khöng chó túái doâng xe cöå chaåy vúái töëc àöå cao maâ coân túái caã rêët nhiïìu nhûäng àiïìu kyâ laå maâ baån ài qua. Haäy daânh thúâi gian ài daåo quanh nhûäng khu dên cû khaác nhau vaâ quan saát hay trúã thaânh möåt phêìn cuãa cuöåc söëng khaác laå àoá. Haäy tin töi àiïìu àoá seä laâm

thoãa maän àûúåc caãm giaác khaám phaá trong chuyïën ài cuãa baån vaâ mang laåi cho baån möåt vaâi chuyïån àïí kïí laâm quaâ cho nhûäng ngûúâi úã nhaâ cuâng vúái nhûäng moán àöì lûu niïåm maâ baån àaä mua.

Kiến Trúc Vúái trïn 7 triïåu ngûúâi söëng trïn möåt núi chó bùçng möåt phêìn ba Ðaão Rhode, bang nhoã nhêët cuãa Hoa Kyâ, Höìng Köng àaä phaát triïín thaânh möåt thaânh phöë vúái mêåt àöå nhaâ troåc trúâi daây àùåc nhêët. Ðûúâng chên trúâi doåc bïën caãng Victoria laâ möåt trong nhûäng àiïím thu huát khaách du lõch xûáng àaáng vaâ coá leä coân hún thïë nûäa khi noá àûúåc thùæp saáng nhû möåt cöî maáy troâ chúi ngaây trûúác vaâo möîi buöíi töëi. Thuá võ khöng keám laâ nhûäng khu chung cû san saát taåo nïn möåt daäy maâu phêën vúái nhûäng toâa nhaâ siïu cao vaâ moãng tröng nhû khöng gian hai chiïìu.

Möåt vñ duå àaáng chuá yá laâ khu Kin Ming Estate úã Tseung Kwan O núi têåp trung túái trïn 22.000 ngûúâi sinh söëng, nhûng baån cuäng coá thïí tòm thêëy nhûäng khu dên sinh, caã tû nhên vaâ nhaâ nûúác úã bêët cûá quêån naâo cuãa Höìng Köng. Baån coá thïí daânh thúâi gian àïí ngûúäng möå nhûäng khöëi xïëp hònh khöíng löì àoá vaâ thûã nghô xem baån seä mêët bao lêu àïí àúåi cho thang maáy lïn túái nhaâ cuãa baån úã trïn têìng 70. Duâ baån coá àang ngùæm nhòn noá tûâ trïn phöë hay trïn möåt chiïëc xe buyát

January 2012 The Word | 89

hai têìng, hoùåc tûâ möåt têìng thûúång, baån seä coá caãm giaác nhû mònh àang laåc vaâo möåt thïë giúái tûúng lai núi con ngûúâi söëng trong nhûäng cùn höå beá xñu trïn trúâi. Thïm vaâo caãm giaác khoa hoåc viïîn tûúãng cuãa nhûäng khu chung cû àoá laâ nhûäng chiïëc reâm cûãa söí vúái maâu sùæc nhû nhûäng chiïëc buâi nhuâi cuãa bïånh viïån tö àiïím trïn caác toâa nhaâ; coá leä cuöåc söëng bêån röån cuãa Höìng Köng khiïën ngûúâi ta khoá tòm àûúåc thúâi gian àïí thay thïë nhûäng chiïëc reâm cûãa múái.

Vườn Chim Phố Yuen Po Nïëu Höìng Köng laâ möåt chaâng trai coá yá àõnh cêìu hön thò nhûäng con chim chñnh laâ cö dêu tûúng lai cuãa noá.

Nhûäng öng giaâ àûa nhûäng con chim biïët hoát trong löìng ài daåo vaâo nhûäng buöíi chiïìu àêìy nùæng, hay nhûäng con chim höìng haåc raãi raác trong höì trong cuãa cöng viïn Kowloon àïìu laâ nhûäng thûá dïî bùæt gùåp úã àêy.

Nïëu baån àang tòm kiïëm nhûäng àaân chim lúán thò baån cuäng khöng phaãi ài xa. ÚÃ phêìn lúán caác cöng viïn úã Höìng Köng, baån coá thïí tòm àûúåc nhûäng núi truá êín àûúåc daânh riïng laâm núi phên loaåi caác giöëng chim. Tuy nhiïn nhûäng chiïëc löìng coá thïí laâm baån thêët voång vò àöi khi baån khöng thïí tòm thêëy caác chuá chim hoùåc nhòn thêëy caác chuá thöng qua nhûäng chiïëc lûúái vaâ cöåt tröng thêåt choáng mùåt vaâ tuâ tuáng. Ðïí coá möåt traãi nghiïåm gêìn guäi hún vúái caác chuá chim, haäy túái thùm Vûúân Chim Phöë Yuen Po úã Kowloon. Khi baån ài qua nhûäng caái chúå nhoã beá nhûng àöng àuác, baån seä thêëy nhûäng nhûäng con àûúâng moân vúái nhûäng chuá chêu chêëu xöíng chuöìng nhûäng con chuöåt hoùåc chim àang biïíu diïîn nhûäng maân nhaãy giêåt luâi trong nhûäng chiïëc löìng chêåt heåp. Nhiïìu ngûúâi cuäng mang nhûäng con vêåt nuöi cuãa mònh àïën àêy àïí têån hûúãng möåt chuát khöng khñ trong laânh vaâ biïíu diïîn trûúác nhûäng khaán giaã haâo hûáng. Ðêåu trïn vai ngûúâi, róa tai hay vùæt veão trïn möåt ngoán tay chuã, nhûäng con chim naây roä raâng laâ coá möåt möëi quan hïå rêët àùåc biïåt vúái chuã cuãa chuáng.

Thûúâng thò caã chim vaâ ngûúâi àïìu khöng phiïìn nïëu

baån muöën chuåp aãnh hay nïëu baån àuã duäng caãm àïí tûå àúä nhûäng con chim naây. Sau khi àaä thoãa maän thuá ngùæm chim, baån coá thïí tòm àïën Con Ðûúâng Chúå Hoa úã ngay caånh àoá àïí kiïëm tòm nhûäng hûúng thúm ngoåt ngaâo cuãa hoa thay vò muâi cuãa caác chuá chim.

Chủ Nhật Của Những Người Giúp Việc Mùåc duâ 95 phêìn trùm dên söë Höìng Köng laâ ngûúâi Haán tûâ Trung Quöëc nhûng nhûäng nhoám thiïíu söë úã àêy cuäng thïí hiïån àûúåc maånh meä sûå hiïån diïån cuãa mònh. Möåt trong nhûäng nhoám àoá laâ nhûäng phuå nûä giup viïåc ngûúâi In-àö-nï-xi-a hay Phi-lñp-pin. Hoå coá möåt ngaây nghó trong tuêìn laâ ngaây Chuã Nhêåt, vaâ vò hoå thûúâng söëng vúái nhûäng ngûúâi chuã cuãa mònh nïn hoå khöng coá chöî riïng àïí thû giaän. Vaâ kïët quaã laâ haâng nghòn ngûúâi tuå têåp ngoaâi trúâi, tûå taåo ra chöî nghó cho mònh bùçng nhûäng têëm bòa, vaãi hay chùn vaâ daânh caã ngaây àïí thùm hoãi baån beâ hay gia àònh maâ hoå caã tuêìn chûa gùåp. Cöng viïn Kowloon hay Victoria laâ möåt trong söë nhûäng núi töët nhêët àïí coá thïí thêëy nhûäng ngûúâi phuå nûä naây trong nhûäng böå quêìn aáo thïí thao thi nhaãy theo nhõp hip-hop hay ùn nhûäng moán ùn maâu sùæc trong nhû caã möåt taác phêím nghïå thuêåt. Möåt söë nhûäng ngûúâi giuáp viïåc naây laâ ngûúâi Muslim nïn trong nhûäng núi yïn tônh cuãa cuãa cöng viïn, baån coá thïí nghe thêëy êm nhaåc khi hoå cêìu nguyïån trong nhûäng chiïëc khùn àöåi àêìu thiïët kïë thêåt àeåp. Ðûâng lo vïì viïåc baån ài qua vaâ kñnh troång quan saát nhûäng nghi lïî cuãa caác nhoám khaác nhau; nhûäng ngûúâi phuå nûä àaä quen vúái viïåc cuöåc söëng ngaây Chuã Nhêåt cuãa hoå diïîn ra núi cöng cöång. Ðaáng ngaåc nhiïn laâ chñnh quyïìn úã àêy khöng nhûäng cho pheáp nhûäng ngûúâi phuå nûä naây sûã duång möåt khu röång lúán maâ coân ngùn hoaân toaân möåt vaâi con phöë cho hoå. Mùåc duâ nhûäng ngûúâi phuå nûä naây khöng phaãi luác naâo cuäng thñch daânh thúâi gian röîi cuãa mònh ngöìi trïn nhûng mùåt àûúâng bï-töng, ñt nhêët thò luác naâo hoå cuäng coá möåt chöî àïí daânh riïng cho mònh.

"Dù bạn có đang ngắm nhìn nó từ trên phố hay trên một chiếc xe buýt hai tầng, hoặc từ một tầng thượng, bạn sẽ có cảm giác như mình đang lạc vào một thế giới tương lai nơi con người sống trong những căn hộ bé xíu trên trời"

90 | The Word January 2012

HỒNG KÔNG ẨN GIẤU Theo chiều kim đồng hồ, từ trái sang, từ trên xuống: các loại chim đủ màu sắc rực rỡ trong chuồng ở vườn chim Yuen Po trên đường Prince Edward, một đầu bếp của một điểm nấu ăn ngoài trời ở quận Trung Tâm nhìn ra ngoài đường, hai người phụ nữ chỉnh sửa quần áo cho nhau để tham gia một ngày lễ ở Công Viên Victoria

Chợ và Bếp Ngoài Trời ÊÍm thûåc laâ möåt phêìn thiïët yïëu cuãa cuöåc söëng cöång àöìng úã Höìng Köng, nhûäng nhaâ haâng, tiïåm baânh myâ vaâ nhûäng quaán ùn vóa heâ luön têëp nêåp suöët ngaây. Ngûúâi ta thûúâng ùn thñch thuá nhûäng moán tröng hoùåc laâ tröng rêët ngon hoùåc àaáng àïí baân caäi, vaâ nhûäng thûá baån nghô baån seä goåi tûâ thûåc àún coá thïí khöng phaãi thûá maâ baån seä nhêån àûúåc. Suãi caão vaâ lêíu laâ hai moán ngon àaáng tin cêåy, trong khi nhûäng moán khaác coá leä chó daânh cho nhûäng ngûúâi töët buång. Moåi ngûúâi nïn ñt nhêët laâ nghiïn cûáu kyä nhûäng nguyïn liïåu maâ Höìng Köng coá, vaâ nhûäng quaán ngoaâi trúâi laâ núi baån coá thïí laâm àiïìu àoá vaâ àïí cho nhûäng giaác quan cuãa baån phaãi hoaåt àöång maånh. ÚÃ Sham Shi Po, baån coá thïí ngùæm nhòn nhûäng sùæc maâu cêìu vöìng tûâ nhûäng con caá múái àûúåc àaánh bùæt úã cûãa hang caá hay möåt ngûúâi baán thõt chùåt vaâ goái cho baån möåt con võt quay ngêm têím ngon chó qua ba àöång taác. Nhûäng chiïëc thuâng àûång haâng trùm loaåi caá khö, rau thúm vaâ rau xanh traân khoãi mùåt trûúác cuãa cûãa haâng vaâ lan toãa ra möåt hûúng thúm àùåc biïåt nhêët maâ baån coá thïí caãm nhêån vaâ khöng thïí miïu taã àûúåc. Nhûäng miïëng thõt söëng àoã àûúác treo ngoaâi cûãa, vaâ nhûäng hoa quaã tûúi àûúåc baán trïn phöë. Qua nhûäng boáng àeân huyânh quang tûâ caác cûãa haâng àêåu vaâ trûáng, nhûäng ngûúâi ài chúå thûúâng àûúåc bùæt gùåp mang theo nhûäng chiïëc tuái nilon maâu àoã àûång nhûäng àöì hoå

vûâa mua àûúåc trong khi nhûäng chiïëc taxi liïn tuåc bêëm coâi vïì phña hoå àïí tòm löëi ra phöë. Thúâi gian töët nhêët àïí túái àêy laâ sau giúâ laâm viïåc, trûúác giúâ cao àiïím buöíi töëi, khi baån coá thïí caãm nhêån möåt bêìu khöng khñ naáo nhiïåt vûâa höì húãi laåi vûâa giaãi thoaát.

Nhûäng caái bïëp ngoaâi trúâi thûúâng àûúåc dûång lïn vaâo thúâi gian naây, vaâ nhûäng caái baân, ghïë vaâ möåt khöng gian bïëp àûúåc xïëp lïn trïn àûúâng phöë àïí phuåc vuå nhûäng ngûúâi ùn töëi. Nhûäng caái bïëp ngoaâi trúâi nhû thïë nhû nhûäng vêåt thïí nghïå thuêåt coá thïí àûúåc tòm thêëy úã nhûäng ngöi laâng nhoã beá trong khu New Territories hay quanh nhûäng goác tûâ nhûäng trung têm thûúng maåi cao cêëp úã khu Trung têm. Nhûäng ngûúâi nêëu bïëp thûúâng duâng nhûäng caái chaão khöíng löì àïí chuêín bõ àöì ùn cho nhûäng khaách ruöåt cuãa mònh vaâ nhûäng chiïëc àôa àûúåc lau rûãa bùçng nûúác söi trong nhûäng chiïëc böìn to trïn mùåt àêët.

Nhûäng chuâm khoái böëc húi nghi nguát tûâ àöì ùn àang àûúåc nêëu, nhûäng boáng àeân trêìn roåi aánh saáng lúâ múâ cho bïëp, caãnh tûúång naây gúåi nhúá laåi nhûäng böå phim trinh thaám cuãa nhûäng nùm 40. Thïm vaâo bêìu khöng khñ êën tûúång àoá, nhûäng thûác ùn úã àêy cuäng thûúâng rêët ngon vaâ reã. Vaâ phêìn tuyïåt vúâi nhêët û? Ðoá laâ úã Höìng Köng vaâ coá leä hoå seä coá thûåc àún bùçng tiïëng Anh.

January 2012 The Word | 91

92 | The Word January 2012

Haâ Nöåi coá thïí chiïìu loâng nhûäng ngûúâi ùn chay nhiïìu hún veã ngoaâi cuãa noá.

Coá àiïìu Karryn Miller cho rùçng baån cêìn phaãi biïët tòm caác moán ùn àoá úã àêu. Hònh aãnh búãi Dominic Blewett

Phong Phú Những Món Chay

C

ûá thûã nhòn qua möåt caái thûåc àún trung bònh úã Viïåt Nam vaâ baån seä thêëy noá chùèng ñt thõt caá möåt chuát naâo. Ngay caã úã phêìn caác moán rau thò cuäng thûúâng laâ caác moán àaä thïm nïëm loaåi gia võ àûúåc yïu thñch úã àêy laâ nûúác mùæm. Nhûng vêîn coân hi voång cho nhûäng àöång vêåt ùn coã trong söë chuáng ta. Haâ Nöåi coá möåt cú söë nhûäng nhaâ haâng Viïåt Nam, tûâ quaán vóa heâ cho túái nhûäng núi sang troång mang àöì ùn túái têån núi cho nhûäng ngûúâi ûa chuöång loaåi thûác ùn khöng coá àöång vêåt. Vaâ nhû chõ Àöî Thõ Thuãy úã nhaâ haâng Mêy Trùæng àaä noái: “Rau coã coá nhiïìu loaåi hún àöång vêåt,” vò vêåy ùn chay khöng coá nghôa laâ baån seä khöng àûúåc ùn möåt caách phong phuá caác loaåi thûåc phêím.Vaâ cuäng khöng coá nghôa laâ baån seä boã lúä caác moán ùn Viïåt Nam – baån chó cêìn khön ngoan lûåa choån nhûäng núi mònh seä ùn maâ thöi.

Tamarind Cafe 80 Maä Mêy, Hoaân Kiïëm www.tamarind-cafe.com Tamarind laâ möåt trong söë nhûäng nhaâ haâng möåt trùm phêìn trùm chay úã Haâ Nöåi maâ khöng coá quaá nhiïìu moán giaã thõt. Thay thïë vaâo àoá, thûåc àún úã àêy bao göìm caác moán AÁ khaác nhau nhû moán caâ-ri xanh cuãa Thaái Lan, phúã hay sushi cuâng vúái möåt söë moán tûå saáng taåo khaác nhû khoai lang nghiïìn vúái bú laåc. Caác moán ùn chñnh coá giaá khoaãng VNÐ140.000. Nïëu thïm àöì uöëng hoa quaã tûúi nûäa thò giaá seä khoaãng VNÐ200.000 möåt ngûúâi.

Cơm Chay Hà Thành 116 Ngoä 166 Kim Maä, Ba Ðònh (Tûâ àûúâng Kim Maä, reä vaâo ngoä bïn caånh cûãa haâng Duc Hollywood maâu xanh, ài tiïëp khoaãng 25m röìi reä traái. Quaán nùçm sêu khoaãng 25m, bïn tay phaãi) www.comchayhathanh.com Caái quaán khiïm töën naây coá thïí húi khoá tòm möåt chuát. Nhûng nïëu baån ài theo àuáng chó

dêîn thò baån seä tòm àïën àûúåc möåt núi khaá yïn tônh vúái nhûäng moán chay Viïåt rêët phaãi chùng.

Baån nïn cêín thêån khi choån moán úã àêy nïëu khöng muöën goåi phaãi nhûäng moán chay giaã thõt (coá ai muöën ùn moán öëc laâm bùçng böåt luáa myâ khöng nhó?). Nïëu baån muöën nïëm thûã möåt moán ùn chay ngon tuyïåt haäy goåi thûã moán àùåc saãn Haâ Nöåi – buán chaã – thõt lúån nûúáng bùçng than vúái rau thúm vaâ buán cuâng vúái nûúác chêëm laâm tûâ àêåu vaâ dêëm.

Mây Trắng Söë 2 Ngoä 12 Ðùång Thai Mai, Xuên Diïåu Ðöî Thõ Thuãy (cuâng vúái hai àöëi taác kinh doanh) múã Mêy Trùæng hai nùm trûúác àïí chia seã nhûäng moán ùn thuêìn chay – khöng coá bêët cûá möåt saãn phêím thõt naâo coá thïí loåt qua cûãa cuãa hoå, vaâ cuäng àïí uãng höå nhûäng ngûúâi ùn chay hoaân toaân hoùåc möåt phêìn vúái nhûäng moán ùn giaâu nùng lûúång, cên bùçng vaâ hêìu hïët laâ hûäu cú.

Cúm xuêët bao göìm suáp, cúm vaâ böën moán nho nhoã thûúâng laâ lûåa choån àuáng àùæn nhêët. Phuåc vuå úã àêy rêët thên thiïån nhûng àöi khi húi lêu.

Cơm Chay Nàng Tấm 79A Trêìn Hûng Ðaåo, Hoaân Kiïëm Quaán naây reã, êëm cuáng vúái nhûäng moán ùn theo àaåo Phêåt, nùçm êín mònh trong möåt ngoä nhoã trïn àûúâng Trêìn Hûng Ðaåo. Caác baân ùn àûúåc sùæp xïëp úã möåt khu chñnh hay trong möåt phoâng nhoã caånh àoá. Vaâo ngaây muâng Möåt hoùåc ngaây rùçm, khi nhûäng ngûúâi theo Ðaåo Phêåt khöng àûúåc pheáp ùn thõt, quaán trúã nïn àöng àuác vúái toaân khaách haâng quen, baân ùn àûúåc xïëp traân ra caã phña ngoaâi sên àïí phuåc vuå. Quaán coá caác moán tûúng tûå nhûäng moán baån coá thïí tòm thêëy úã caác quaán àaåo Phêåt khaác trong thaânh phöë: moán giaã thõt, àêåu, rau vaâ myâ xaâo

Quán thân thiện với khách ăn chay Nhûäng ngûúâi thñch ùn caác moán thõt úã Haâ Nöåi khöng cêìn phaãi khoá xûã khi ài ùn cuâng nhûäng ngûúâi ùn chay. Nhûäng quaán ùn ÊËn Ðöå ngon

nhêët thaânh phöë nhû Khazaana (1C Töng Ðaãn), Namaste Hanoi (47 Loâ Suä) vaâ Foodshop 45 (59 Truác Baåch) luön laâ nhûäng lûåa choån tin cêåy àïí ùn nhûäng moán khöng coá thõt. Nhûäng núi nhû The Hanoi Social Club (6 Höåi Vuä), Southgate hay Puku (caã hai nùçm trïn phöë Töëng Duy Tên) söi àöång hún nhûäng quaán möåt trùm phêìn trùm chay, vaâ nhûäng moán burrito Mï-hi-cö khöíng löì (cuöën bùçng böåt myâ) vúái àêåu àen, cúm vaâ rau nûúáng cuãa Vines (1A vaâ 7 Xuên Diïåu) coá thïí laâm bêët cûá ai tûâng phaân naân nhûäng moán chay khöng àuã laâm hoå no phaãi giûä im lùång. Nhûäng quaán ùn YÁ úã Haâ Nöåi nhû quaán Pane e Vino (3 Nguyïîn Khùæc Cêín) cuäng laâ nhûäng lûåa choån an toaân cho caác moán ùn chay ngon tuyïåt.

Quán Chay Sang Trọng La Verticale (19 Ngö Vùn Súã) laâ möåt quaán pha tröån giûäa Phaáp vaâ Viïåt nùçm trong möåt biïåt thûå cöí coá xuêët ùn Garden Day (Ngaây xanh) daânh cho nhûäng khaách haâng ùn chay.

Xuêët naây khöng reã (VNÐ690.000++) nhûng hoaân toaân àaáng àöìng tiïìn. Noá bao göìm àïën nûãa taá caác moán ùn nhûng nöíi bêåt laâ moán suáp thúm ngon vúái nhûäng miïëng rau atisso cùæt to vaâ nhûäng chiïëc baánh gaåo gioân tan coá àöån rau thúm àïí ùn keâm. Kïët thuác bûäa ùn vúái möåt danh saách caác moán traáng miïång tuyïåt vúâi nhû kem võ xaã phuã trïn möåt chiïëc baánh chanh leo, xung quanh laâ hoa quaã tûúi. Möåt quaán PhaápViïåt khaác laâ quaán Green Tangerine (48 Haâng Beâ) cuäng coá khaá nhiïìu moán chay nhû laâ caâ tñm àöån ratatouille (moán suáp rau cuãa Phaáp).

Món Ăn Vỉa Hèâ Khöng coá nhiïìu lûåa choån lùæm vúái caác moán ùn ngoaâi àûúâng phöë. Tuy nhiïn baån cuäng coá möåt vaâi lûåa choån nïëu baån thûåc sûå muöën ngöìi ùn úã vóa heâ. Haäy thûã moán baánh myâ trûáng, myâ xaâo rau khöng cho nûúác mùæm, hay buán àêåu – vúái nhûäng miïëng àêåu cùæt vûâa miïëng ùn, buán vaâ rau kinh giúái, nhûng haäy nhúá boã qua mùæm töm nheá vò noá thûúâng ài keâm moán naây.

CÁC QUÁN ĂN THUẦN CHAY KHÁC Cơm Chay Khải Tường 289 Kim Mã

Cơm Chay Kim Cương 96 Xuân Diệu

Cơm Chay Kim Cương II 19 Phan Bội Châu

Phạt Trường Thọ 184B Xuân Diệu

January 2012 The Word | 93

Ho Chi Minh City CROSSTOWN TRAFFIC

Crosstown

TRAFFIC

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94 | The Word January 2012

WITHIN A WEEK OF UPLOADING THE TIME-LAPSE CLIP ONTO VIMEO THE VIDEO WENT VIRAL, SPREADING ACROSS NUMEROUS SOCIAL MEDIA SITES, BLOGS AND NEWS WEBSITES AROUND THE WORLD, INCLUDING THE LIKES OF CBS NEWS, TIME AND THE WASHINGTON POST. DID YOU EXPECT THE REACTION IT’S RECEIVED? The response has blown me away. No matter how much you believe in a project it’s only really tangible when you get direct feedback, and there’s a tendency to think your latest work is your best. I'm also grateful for the small group of family and friends who reviewed the video for me — they’re never afraid to tell me what they think.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO UNDERTAKE SUCH A PROJECT AND WHAT DID YOU HOPE TO ACHIEVE

BY MAKING IT? I draw creativity from stuff that fascinates me and Ho Chi Minh City intrigued me from the moment I arrived — I wanted to understand it, find my way around it, and capture it in some way. Some of the main things that struck me were the massive scale of building and infrastructure construction, as well as the traffic and the general sense of excitement.

There’s a palpable feeling of things growing and improving.

January 2012 The Word | 95

HOW WERE YOU ABLE TO ACHIEVE SUCH A RANGE OF CAMERA ANGLES? WHAT EQUIPMENT DID YOU USE? I've always considered myself to be a wide-angle photographer, I saw the phrase ‘turning the ordinary into the unusual’ written somewhere and I like that. In Ho Chi Minh City there is so much going that wideangle lenses become essential. At the same time a few of the shots were done using telephoto lenses to pick out some of the interesting details.

I got good use out of the Nikon D7000 with Nikon 12-24, 10-24, 50 1.4 and 70-200 2.8 lenses, and most importantly a tripod and some good books.

Bill Bryson’s At Home — A Short History of Private Life, was a particularly good companion. One of the shots was completed from the top floor of a motorcycle pimping shop while breathing in paint fumes.

DID YOU EXPERIENCE ANY DIFFICULTIES DURING THE SHOOTING PROCESS? The most notable difficulty was having all of my equipment stolen at the end of a particularly successful though now-never-to-be-seen sunset shoot across from the ferry port in District 4. If anyone got a particularly good deal on some Nikon camera equipment in early September this might give them an idea as to why!

Luckily for me, health and safety hasn't caught on in Ho Chi Minh City to the extent it has in London, where you’re suspected as a terrorist before you’ve even got your camera out, let alone a tripod for hours at a time. So it made it possible to get shots without

96 | The Word January 2012

going through months of paperwork or having paramedics and fire crew on standby.

ANGLE AND PAN For any camera enthusiasts wanting to know how the zooms and pans were achieved in his time-lapse, Rob Whitworth says that the camera movements were all implemented during post-production using Adobe After Effects.

“I've played around with in-camera movements but they're limited and unsatisfying,” he adds.

“The RAW footage from D-SLRs is very high resolution, which makes it possible to achieve zooms, crops and pans that wouldn't normally be possible in-camera.”

THE TIME-LAPSE IS THE CULMINATION OF 10,000 RAW IMAGES AND MULTIPLE SHOOTS, HOW LONG DID IT TAKE AND CAN YOU DESCRIBE WHAT THE EDITING PROCESS WAS LIKE? Time-lapses are quite a time consuming business in a number of ways. When shooting, once the camera is set up and running there’s some time to step back and take in the scene and experience stuff you wouldn't otherwise. I've seen some pretty cool sunrises and sunsets that I would’ve slept through or otherwise missed.

The shooting was conducted over six short trips to Saigon over a nine-month period and the processing probably took about a month. I spent a lot of time staring at computer screens. There is a saying: “if you want to take pictures, then don't become a photographer”. Personally I love the whole process. I love feeling that I’m pushing the boundaries and doing something new and exciting with the technology available, and the way that time-lapses are both technically and creatively demanding.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE SAIGON TRAFFIC TO THE UNINITIATED? Chaotic. It’s a must-see part of Vietnam. When people ask me what I like most about Vietnam I tell them it’s the traffic. Ho Chi Minh City is the only city I have ever been to where I can cross several districts and park in a sensible amount of time. I’m a natural biker

GIVE WAY (previous pages, left & right) Stills from the video; (below) Rob

at heart so I love being in a country where the motorbike is king.

HOW ARE YOU DEALING WITH THE OVERNIGHT FAME? Funny… the response has been fantastic.

As with many people working in creative industries my work often only gets seen by a handful of people at most and you often get very little feedback, so having it shared around the world is amazing. I’ve been particularly blown away by the response of Vietnamese at home and abroad. There is a real pride that my video seems to have tapped into by presenting Vietnam in a different vibrant light compared to how it’s sometimes presented in mainstream foreign media. All this being said I don't think I'll be stopped in the street anytime soon and asked for an autograph!

WHAT‘S YOUR NEXT PROJECT AND WILL YOU MAKE ANY MORE TIMELAPSES IN VIETNAM? I'm hoping to complete a time-lapse of Hoi An, which will have a very different feel. There is certainly a wealth of shooting opportunities in Vietnam and I’m spoilt for choice with potential locations.

To watch Rob Whitworth’s Traffic in Frenetic HCMC, visit the home page of www. wordhcmc.com

January 2012 The Word | 97

Ho Chi Minh City

LISTINGS

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 098 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 098 RESTAURANT - FRENCH 098 RESTAURANT - INDIAN 098 RESTAURANT - INTERNATIONAL 098

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am.

Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

APOCALYPSE NOW

MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music.

Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

CLOUD 9

+

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0948 343399 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet.

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

+

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

98 | The Word January 2012

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

RESTAURANT - ITALIAN 099 RESTAURANT - SOUTHEAST ASIAN 099 RESTAURANT - VIETNAMESE 100 RESOBARS 100 It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen. +

LAVISH

DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices.

However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

LUSH

+

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

VASCO’S

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EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

MID-RANGE TAN HAI VAN

PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best–known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN BUDGET THE PUNJABI

NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s self-made tandoor oven.

Excellent.

MID TO TOP

MID-RANGE

KABIN

GANESH

SZECHUAN / CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Szechuan and Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID TO TOP TY COZ

CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa.

And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town. A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

TOP-END LA CAMARGUE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay.

Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 29B Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Decidedly intimate, this whitewashed, open-kitchened, 22-seater restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list – 75 at present count – and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the three-storey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams.

Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

MUMTAZ

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

TANDOOR

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bob Dylan on the sound system.

Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

ho chi minh city MID-RANGE AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1. Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor.

Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

BERNIE’S BAR & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3822 1720 www.berniesbar.com 7.30am to 11pm daily Famed for its Australian-style burgers served up with pickled beetroot and fried egg, the two-storey, bistro-style Bernie’s is much more than a burger joint. Boasting comfort food-style mains ranging from steaks, grills and pizzas through to pasta, sandwiches, salads and panini, this venue also has a Vietnamese food menu. Live music enters proceedings on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays and space is also available for private functions.

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

SUBWAY

171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1. Tel: 3836 4497 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere.

Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with

eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

MID TO TOP FLOW SAIGON

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1. Tel: 3915 3691 www.flowsaigon.com 7.30am to midnight, Monday to Friday.

10am to midnight, Saturday. 10am to 3.30pm, Sunday Opening up onto an enormous first floor dining area with an outdoor terrace to boot, this black and white, artwork-clad space with touches of deep red is one of the latest international styled restaurants to descend on Saigon. Excellent service, an extensive wine menu and modern fusion European cuisine all combine to make this a great place for a quality meal.

Also puts on events and film screenings.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

PASHA

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rary international–style grill and modern European fare with sushi and sashimi.

THE DECK

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MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm.

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN MID-RANGE PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3821 8181 www.pendolasco-restaurantvietnam.com 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

MID TO TOP LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful,

rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO

PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House.

The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni.

This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

RESTAURANTS – SOUTHEAST ASIAN BUDGET CORIANDER

THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

SKEWERS

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

TOP-END SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN / SASHIMI 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and sushi bar, as wells as a separate dining room with 270–degree views of the city makes up this enormous, no-comfort-spared space.

The excellent food menu mixes contempo-

January 2012 The Word | 99

ho chi minh city HOA TUC

MID-RANGE LION CITY

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SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic five-storey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

RESTAURANTS – VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A

BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1 Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes.

VIET CHAY

BUDDHIST VEGETARIAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3848 3399 7am to 9.30pm If you’re into Buddhist-style vegetarian cuisine and aren’t put off by faux meat, the offerings at Viet Chay are among the best in town. Set in the grounds of the city’s largest pagoda, the joint, hygienic indoor, outdoor space is the setting for dishes like tuna made out of bean curd and pork ribs constructed out of tofu.

Sounds odd but tastes great and prices are cheap, too.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

CUC GACH QUAN

MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh and his French-Vietnamese wife, the cuisine here is good, too, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients together with a selection of more contemporary options.

100 | The Word January 2012

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

Also runs separate cooking classes.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt.

Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

RESTOBARS ALA MEZON

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10 Chu Minh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6291 0447 alamezon.vn@gmail.com 11.30am to 1am A restobar where France meets Japan, this innovative and bold four-floor venue mixes Gallic flair with all the nuances of the Land of the Rising Sun. With lime green in the stairwells, maroon on the ground floor and orange moving up to the subtly lit top-floor terrace, the bar areas and dining spaces are complemented by two games rooms for playing board games, Wii and X-Box. The menu encompasses the same eclectic mix, with ika kappa maki sitting next to baked clams gratinee and beef carpaccio. A bit of something for everyone.

ALIBI

INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

CEPAGE

LOUNGE BAR / INTERNATIONAL Lancaster Building, 22 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8733 www.cepage.biz 8am to 12pm. Sunday 5pm to 12pm When the plush but chic Cepage opened its doors, its décor and concept caused a stir thanks to its lounge-style seating, eye-catching subtly lit bar area, upstairs restaurant and glass-fronted wine cellar.

Then there was the international, Japanese-influenced food menu, put together

by German Andreas Ertle, one of the city’s best chefs. More than three years on this comfortable but well-priced restobar still hits the spot, and also boasts one of the most creative cocktail lists in town. Check out their black box lunchtime deal.

HARD ROCK CAFÉ

AMERICAN / LIVE MUSIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6291 7595 www.hardrockcafe.vn 11am to midnight The rock memorabilia, cowboy-like, rockcentred American food menu and branded décor at the Saigon version of this international branded café provide for one of the city’s few, medium capacity downtown music venues. The nightly live music is accompanied by a pricey (for Saigon) food menu that includes burgers, hickorysmoked BBQ ribs, fajitas, sandwiches and salads. Puts on regular events – check their website for details.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own.

Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

LE PUB

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the Frenchrun Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

O BRIEN’S

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IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-die-for zesty beef roll-ups.

Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

PACHARAN

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SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas. Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded

reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene. The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

PHATTY’S

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46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere.

Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains. +

SANDALS

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 93 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 5198 www.sailingclubvietnam.com 7am to 12am Creative, international-influenced Mediterranean cuisine is the focus at this airy, Buddha-inspired, sandalwood coloured restobar that is part of the Sailing Club chain in Mui Ne and Nha Trang. With a downstairs bar area, two floors of dining space and an upstairs terrace-cum-lounge bar, Sandals provides a pleasant, more laid back alternative to the standard nightlife and dining scene in downtown Saigon. Has a range of specials and happy hours on offer.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

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17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home– style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

ZANZBAR

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 info@saigongourmetgroup 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, a laid back atmosphere and a conversation-friendly bar area mix with a dining space out back and international fusion cuisine to make this one of downtown’s go-to destinations. Running the gamut from sake ‘n’ harissa marinated cod through to torchon of lamb, chicken souvlaki, a lemon pepper salmon salad, a chimichurri burger and a range of enticing desserts, the cuisine here is top-notch and the presentation excellent.

The Final Say LIFE IN THE BUS LANE / PHOTO OF THE MONTH / TRIVIA BUFF

102 | The Word January 2012

THE FINAL SAY

Life in the Bus Lane You can learn a lot about a city during a bus ride or two, says Roz Plotzker.

Photo by Nguyen Bao Ngoc

F

or several weeks, I took the 31 bus from the corner of Nguyen Du and Ba Trieu to the end of the route.

It manoeuvered its way towards Vincom Tower, lumbering elephant-like among a jungle of motorbikes and pedestrians. Then it hooked a right onto Dai Co Viet, and finally turned left down a small, winding street, which led to the university. I got off the bus and walked to my Vietnamese lesson. Afterwards, I returned to the same bus stop and waited — sometimes for three minutes, sometimes for 20. Occasionally, I passed the time answering questions about my age, my nationality and marital status.

The bus had curious passengers. The 31 would come. I would board the bus, and go home along Pho Hue. The buses in Hanoi stand out on the streets. From an outsider’s point of view — both literally and figuratively — they look clumsy and unapproachable. Uninviting.

Crowded. Kind of dirty. A little intimidating, maybe? But, I came to Hanoi from New York, where the subways are as relevant to the city as the avenues they are under.

When I arrived in Hanoi, it seemed only natural that I should get a bus map as soon as I could. Over the weeks, the map became my guide to the anatomy of Hanoi’s neighbourhoods, interconnected by the circulatory system of the bus routes.

The 31 bus, for example, continues on Pho Hue, past Hoan Kiem Lake, along Au Co, up to Tay Ho. I discovered the 14 bus one morning, and consequently found a street full of plants and birds and aquariums.

Incidentally, the 14 bus is a good way to get to the Museum of Ethnology as well... which you can also access by the 38 or the 13. For those in Tay Ho, you probably could take the 55 to the Museum of Ethnology, which picks up at the same stop where the 31 drops off on Au Co. But I digress.

It’s easy to get carried way with the bus system, especially with a map. Like looking

at a city from an airplane, it reveals the ‘big picture’. But, actually, riding the bus provides an entirely different perspective.

Show me the Routes A major challenge is getting on the bus in the first place. The bus stop is a place of expectation. Sometimes it’s a lesson in waiting, and unpredictability. How do

“A small joy of riding the bus is participating in a microcosm of Hanoi. The mobile environment hosts a perfect cross section of the city” you cope when something — like a bus arriving — is out of your control? Do you get frustrated? Do you play Snake on your Nokia phone until you see the giant red and yellow vehicle on the horizon? Do you give up and eventually shell out tens of thousands of VND for a xe om, rather than a VND3,000 bus fare? Among many other things, waiting for the bus is simply an exercise in patience.

But, the patience inevitably pays off. The bus arrives. It pulls to the curb. The door opens. Suddenly, the competitiveness that has driven Vietnam’s growing economy rears its head on a local level: people

shove their way to the bus’s steps from both directions. Passengers flood off as if they are being pushed; they probably are.

Meanwhile, counter currents of people force their way through the doors, up until they close.

One would think that all this pushing and shoving among bus riders would suggest a disregard for each other. Every man for himself! But, once on the bus, the relationships among passengers become more complicated. The bus becomes a transient, nuanced community.

A small joy of riding the bus is participating in a microcosm of Hanoi. The mobile environment hosts a perfect cross section of the city. Students on their way to school give up their seats to retired women heading to the market. Young professionals send text messages. Street vendors balance their baskets of bootleg DVDs. I’ve found that in this little moving slice of Hanoi, competition will typically shift to allegiance.

Perhaps it’s a result of my foreignness that I’ve been taken under the wings of fellow passengers. It also might be a reaction to my map, which I study from time to time while I’m riding. My bus-mates are often quick to make sure I know where I’m going, where I should get off, and where they are going.

If they get off before I do, they’ll recruit someone to make sure I recognise my stop.

Lately, I haven’t needed a map. I take the bus to and from work daily. It’s a time of transition — in the morning getting into work-mode, in the afternoon a period of unwinding.

The other week, I saw something rare: another foreigner on the bus. My instinct was to approach her. Did she have a map?

Did she know where to get off? Just when I summoned the courage to offer my assistance, she headed to the door. She knew exactly where she was going. We made eye contact, smiled knowingly at each other, and went our separate ways.

January 2012 The Word | 103

BY

Do you own a photograph that would look good here? Email it to editor@wordhanoi.com

ED PARKS

A Burmese barber in his salon and house near Inle Lake, Myanmar

{trivia buff} Answers on page 3

1) In the world of music, what job did Simon Fuller get sacked from in 1997?

8) What British county has the longest coastline?

in 2002?

15) What American vocal group scored their first UK Top Ten Hit In 1996 with We Got It Going On?

2) What religion's sacred writings are divided into the Tripitaka?

9) What animal provides 50 percent of all the protein eaten in Peru?

3) What overseas singer performed at the wedding of Prince Charles & Lady Diana Spencer?

10) In the world of music what band is made up with the members Jim, Andrea, Caroline and Sharon?

4) David Sylvian was the former front man of what group?

11) Morel and Oyster are types of what vegetable?

5) What book in 1998 criticised Diana and was disapproved of by the royals?

12) What football team enjoyed a UK chart entry with the song Blue is the Colour?

18) What English city is home to theatres called The Royal Centre and The Lace Market Theatre?

6) Mike Oldfield had A Shadow of Light or A Moonlight Shadow?

13) What fashion items does Jimmy Choo design?

19) What was the name of the pig in the movie Toy Story?

7) What brand of science is the study of sound?

14) What world leader famously choked on a pretzel and fell off the couch bruising his face

20) What Chaka Khan smash was written by Prince and featured Stevie Wonder?

104 | The Word January 2012

16) What is the national anthem of Australia?

17) What small hand tool shares its name with a cocktail consisting of half gin or vodka & half lime juice?

106 | The Word January 2012