Word Ho Chi Minh City January 2013

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

JANUARY 2013

PICKING UP THE PIECES NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

Contents

wordhcmc.com

JANUARY 2013

056

030

050

036

060

FEATURES 032 006 | The Prelude THE TALK 009 | The Big Five

THE KNIGHTS OF THE STREET

Motorbike-riding neighbourhood watchers are safeguarding Saigon

036

PICKING UP THE PIECES

Quang Tri was on the front line of the war, and it still suffers the aftermath

050

010 | Just In

THE LION'S ROAR

Singapore finds its own way through The Straits

016 | The Buzz

056

FOOD FOR TET

020 | In the Papers

Sussing out the treats in store for Tet

022 | Calendar

060

024 | Overscene INSIDER

The all-girl-and-one-guy rock band White Noize is kicking out the jams

062

030 l Don't Stop Believin' Brett Newski and the Corruption contemplate success on the eve of their first album release

034 l Confessions of a Maid From discovering a cheating wife to an abusive employer, these household helps air out the dirty laundry

2 | Word January 2013

PECHAKUCHA

20 slides, 20 seconds each — PechaKucha is the antidote to boring slideshows

028 l The Salsa Man Patrick Leija ponders the dilemma of his family's secret salsa recipe and what to do with it

SIGNAL TO NOIZE

064

COMEDY IN THE CITY

In the words of the jokers themselves, we learn about the city's developing comedy scene

066

MY OWN SUPER POWER

Being an international school student has its pitfalls

068

THE TET SET

Anticipating the biggest style opportunity of the year

074

HAIR TODAY, GONE TOMORROW

On the beauty hunt with the gorgeous ladies of fake hair

076

ECO TO GO

Tourist destinations in Vietnam are claiming a share in the ecotourism movement, but do they really understand its meaning?

COLUMNS 086 l Business Buff 090 l Travel Promos 096 l Food Promos 104 l Wine Connoisseur 114 l In The Frame 119 l Decks, Drums & Rock N' Roll TIENG VIET HANOI 142 l Phu Lang Phu Lang traditional craft village is still thriving

FINAL SAY 148 l Pho in Nepal The first Vietnamese restaurant in Kathmandu is open for business

152 l Dead Heat The killer's apartment? Our crime serial continues

156 l The Last Call After a stint in Beijing, one of Saigon's best-known chefs returns home

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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor nick@wordhcmc.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter vananh@wordhcmc.com

MADS MONSEN Art Director mads@wordhcmc.com

CHARLES BARNES Staff Photographer charles@wordhcmc.com

NGUYEN THUC DOAN HIEN Layout Designer hien@wordhcmc.com

ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor ed@wordhcmc.com

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DEREK MILROY Staff Editor derek@wordhcmc.com

ADMINISTRATION DUONG VY BAO General Director bao@wordhcmc.com bao@wordhanoi.com

LE DANG PHUONG TRANG Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com

ADVERTISING DUONG THI THANH XUAN Sales Manager xuan@wordhcmc.com

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For advertising enquiries please call Xuan on +84 1227 055122 or Bao on +84 938 609 689 Special thanks to Rob Marsh, Kyle Phanroy, Lyra Dacio, Shane Dillon, Donald Berger, Charlotte Porter, Galen Stolee, Austin Nguyen, Ngo Xuan Hien, Eddy Coubeaux, Samantha Lee and Joey Lee for their contribution to this issue.

Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Word - Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word (Ho Chi Minh city và HaNoi) của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

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Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Công Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành, Phường 4, Quận 3, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com

In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 161/CXB-QLXB/ ngày 18/01/2012 Quyết định xuất bản số 476/QĐCN-LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 10/12/2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2012.

The Prelude F

or anyone used to the supposed ‘free press’ of elsewhere, working in the media in Vietnam can sometimes be a frustrating experience. To graft away in a profession that you believe in, you often have to make sacrifices. Not in terms of telling the truth — journalists should never lie — but in terms of telling the story. There are some things that just cannot be said.

Such was the case potentially with this month’s cover story on Quang Tri — for a while we weren’t sure whether we could publish it. In a country where the past is dealt with by accepting bad events as a matter of fate, much is blocked out. So much so that discussing the war can often be taboo.

Fortunately, for the writer and photographer who travelled to Quang Tri, the province surrounding the former

INBOX

Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), our guides and the people they introduced them to were able to open up. It was both a warming and shocking experience. Shocking in that the people we encountered showed us and made us feel firsthand the continued horrors of war. Do a search on white phosphorus and the unexploded ordnance known locally as bombi, the late Princess Diana’s most heartfelt cause, and you’ll understand. Read the facts laid out in our cover story and you’ll be sickened. Despite the war finishing almost 40 years ago, Quang Tri is still living in its aftermath.

The most harrowing moment was a visit to see Bui Manh Thang in hospital.

A victim of a mortar explosion only seven days earlier, his body was covered in black burn marks and he had injuries to his neck and almost every limb. Our photographer

was visibly perturbed. Yet despite being disorientated, Thang still had spirit. The visit to the house of Hoang Thi Thuy was equally upsetting. Her husband was killed in an accident two years earlier, and she was badly injured. One can only imagine her struggle to bring up her four children alone in the face of constant poverty.

Woven throughout the region’s beautiful scenery are many such tales of individual struggle. We cover these stories and their dark history. We also visit the sites of Khe Sanh, Vinh Moc Tunnels, Ben Hai River, the Mine Action Visitor Centre and Long Hung Church, the image shown on our front cover.

We hope you find it as engaging as we did.

As ever, if you have any comments, please email editor@wordhcmc.com. And from all the team at Word, have a great New Year.

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US AT EDITOR@WORDHCMC.COM — WE’RE NOW AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

THE END OF AN ERA

CHRISTMAS WISH LIST

Word would like to offer an apology to Saigon Star International School for not including their students’ Santa Claus letters in the Christmas Wish List article (December 2012). We would also like to offer an additional apology for misplacing the original letters while we were reorganising our editorial office.

6 | Word January 2013

The December 2012 issue of Word was the last issue with our chief editor Christine Van at the helm. Christine worked with us for four-and-a-half years and played a major role in bringing the publication to where it is today. On behalf of everyone at Word we would like to offer her our gratitude for all her work and efforts. Below are a few emails of recognition from some of our customers and partners.

Thanks Christine!

Christine, sorry to see you go. I have to say that in the 3.5 years that I've been here I've seen a lot of improvements and quality articles coming from Word. I hope that they continue to be a good source of knowledge and entertainment, and wish you the best of luck in your new projects. — SK Christine, on behalf of the Vietnam Swans, thank you very much for all your support and I trust all will go exceedingly well post-Word for you. — Phil Johns Christine, you have been at Word for as long as I have been in Vietnam and during this time I have looked at the team both as friends who have helped me in many ways and as providers of a monthly essential! Thank you for your integral role in this and wishing you the very best for the future. — PC

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE

The Festival Bandwagon

P

8 | Word January 2013

THE

BIG

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH

Christmas in Saigon is a Technicolor photo-op

alm trees trussed up in fairy lights; the promise of snow on every airconditioned café window; teenagers and kids sitting outside shops, their conversation punctuated by frequent photo-ops, the flash turned off so the shop window won’t be overexposed.

This was Christmas in Ho Chi Minh City.

There was even a nativity scene at a downtown KFC — alright, not as big a holiday absurdity as the reservationsrequired KFC Christmas Chicken in Japan, which has been marketed to the point that many Japanese believe westerners eat chicken on Christmas, rather than turkey or ham. But still it’s enough to make anyone pause at this strange collision of church and plate.

Of course, Vietnam isn’t the only place with unique Christmas traditions. In Caracas, Venezuela, the streets are closed to cars on Christmas morning, so locals roller skate to church, some shooting fireworks and yelling, “Jesus is born!” In the US, people ice skate around an 80-foot tall Christmas tree, while the loudspeakers blare It’s The Most Wonderful Time of the Year.

All celebrations have their eccentricities, but the key seems to be in the ritual, symbols of life and renewal found in evergreens bathed in snow and a warm living room, a fire in the hearth. The only thing out of place in this city is that these rituals seem to be growing up around the shops.

PHOTO BY CHARLES BARNES

The Talk

A LOOK INTO THE CRYSTAL BALL You might not have heard of CanCham — or worse, confused their business ethos with their dogeat-dog North American neighbours. But these Canadian business types will still share their views with you at their 8th annual “Crystal Ball” business luncheon, as is their gentle way.

This year, presenters range from Andy Ho, the managing director of VinaCapital, to Nigel Russell, chairman of the Australian International School. They will share their wishes and general outlook for the upcoming Year of the Snake.

To register for the Jan. 23 event, which runs between 11am to 2pm, contact CanCham at hcmc@canchamvietnam.org. The luncheon will take place at the New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1

3

LAUGH AND BE DONE BY

ERASING BOUNDARIES

Commercial Free-For-All

Electric for the People

Black Friday, an American start-of-theChristmas-shopping-spree gunshot familiar to readers of funny internet links, made an appearance here this year. It was a curious move.

For starters, the American holiday that precedes it, Thanksgiving, isn’t much of a thing in Vietnam. For the venues catering to expats, tourists and Uncle Sam-yearning Viet kieu, there are the yearly dinners and doses of turkey with all the trimmings. But without that Thursday off as a national holiday (Thanksgiving always falls on a Thursday) there isn’t a reason to give the next day any special treatment. Yet in Vietnam, even Black Friday was celebrated — another commercial celebration to add to the likes of Valentine’s Day, Halloween and Christmas.

Vietnam in the modern era is pulling in influences from almost everywhere, without quite knowing what to do with them. Christmas can conveniently be lumped in with Tet, the blue-and-white lighting scheme that lit up central Saigon an unconscious nod to Hannukah. There will be a gap and then a makeover, but the decorations will be up for most of the period running through to Lunar New Year, making it hard to draw a line from one celebration to the next. Falling in the middle of Tet this year, even Valentine’s Day will get squeezed into the holiday block.

Hitachi supplies a wall of photo props in front of the Saigon Center, ornaments and pinecones blown up to larger-than-life proportions, outgrowing whatever practical meanings they may have once had. Snowmen pose for photos with Vietnamese teens, hands raised in sweetly ironic peace signs on this day of ‘Peace on earth’. Little girls perch on slow motorbikes between snow-blind parents, dressed in tiny angel wings, their eyes filled with wonder.

It’s not Christmas we’re celebrating here, it’s the image of Christmas, the Christmas of Coca-Cola commercials and stock photos. (Santa Claus himself used to don a green and white outfit until Coca-Cola took over — his familiar red and white is thanks to the drinks giant’s marketing campaigns of yesteryear.) Family isn’t the draw of Christmas in Saigon, it’s the lights and store windows that people flock to see. As people walk around in a photo-snapping daze, hawkers with balloons and pinwheels stalk the sparkly intersection of Le Duan and Pham Ngoc Thach, hoping the ritual will extend to them.

Driving down Dong Khoi, you’re likely to get drawn into the festive mood. But these glimmering trees aren’t evergreens.

As you pass from the dolled-up downtown to the business-as-usual surroundings, it seems the ritual here is confined to a single photo-op. — Ed Weinberg

There’s no better place in the city for experimentation than Saigon Outcast, and Experimental Stage Project’s show Erasable aims to test its boundaries. The show itself is indescribable, a hodgepodge of contemporary dance, music, visual art — seemingly everything that can go under the title of ‘performance’. Instead of focusing on content, their energies are directed at the fourth wall, improvising an interaction that erases the gap between art and daily life.

Seems high-concept, and it is. The curious are invited to sign up to perform, and the audience will also play a role — one that will be made up of students, workers and rural types on the forthcoming tour.

Tickets run VND70,000 and the show is on Saturday Jan. 12 at 6pm. Saigon Outcast is located at 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2

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MAKING GOOD ON RESOLUTIONS It’s a few days into the New Year, one that will hopefully bring new opportunities and prosperity. What better way to prepare for success than by throwing on your finest threads, getting that date-escorting elbow ready and making your way to the cultural center of Ho Chi Minh City for a New Year’s Gala Concert?

The Opera House is hosting a grand concert with a wide enough array of source material that even the uninitiated will be able to follow along. Catch up with Rossini, Puccini and the rest on Wednesday Jan. 9.

Tickets cost between VND60,000 and VND300,000 and the concert starts at 8pm. The Opera House is located at 7 Lam Son Square, Q1

2

Saigon Comedy Nights returns to Hard Rock ock Café for its third episode on Tuesday Jan. 15, this time with h comedians from overseas as well as stand-ups from Saigon. n.

From different climes comes Jeff Innocent, nt, an East End-born hard man who besides numerouss television credits has also played movie roles alongside de the likes of Vinnie Jones, who Jeff could apparently eat for breakfast. Joining him is the award-winning ng New Zealand-based stand-up Brendhan Lovegrove ove who having conquered comedy clubs in thee UK returned to the antipodes to perform on n stages the length and rather long breadth of Australia and New Zealand.

And emceeing for the night will be Saigon-based Chris Baker, who has already garnered a following in the city.

The event starts at 8pm on Tuesday Jan. 15 and entrance is VND200,000 including a free beer. For further information or for bookings, call 6291 7595 or email chris.puchalski@ lski@ vtijs.com. Hard Rock Café is in the basement of Kumho Link, cnr. Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan

4

MAFT SAI The man behind the Zudrangma record label and Bangkok-based record store Zudrangma HQ, which opened in 2007, will be returning to Vietnam on Friday Jan. 25 as part of a special show hosted by Sound Adventures and Everyone’s a DJ. Specialising in Thai funk, luk thung and molam music, Maft Sai has been collecting records and DJing for over 12 years, spinning an eclectic mixture of roots luk thung and molam through to reggae, West African, Ethiopian, far-eastern psyche and underground sounds from around the world. With a unique set that he often labels loosely as Thai Dancehall, he has showcased his work around the world.

Supported by Hibiya Line and Superkid with live visuals by Nacho Hernandez, this will be a unique, not-to-be-missed show.

The event takes place at La Fenetre Soleil (2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1), doors open at 9pm. Entrance fee to be confirmed.

For further information go to www.everyonesadjvietnam. wordpress.com

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January 2013 Word | 9

Just In

GOMO Typical of the large, slightly out-of-town stores found in Europe, Australia and North America that focus on all things for the home, the opening of Gomo represents the arrival of a new style of home-wares shop in Vietnam.

Selling a range of products to suit all tastes and atmospheres, the 1,500sqm showroom stocks everything from furniture, sofa suites, bedding and home office equipment through to lamps, mugs, pots, decorative objects and even art. The key though is the style. With such a large showroom space there is something here for everyone. From the more kitschy type of furnishings often preferred by the Asian market through to contemporary seating, reproduction furniture and even more, all tastes are

catered for at reasonable prices.

But perhaps the most unique aspect of Gomo is that everything can be bought and taken home on sight. So, rather than having to order and wait — a typical scenario in Vietnam — if you like a particular table or suite, you can pay for it and have it delivered immediately.

To get to Gomo follow Highway 13 (Xo Viet Nghe Tinh) out of Binh Thanh and Thu Duc through to Binh Duong. The showroom is located on the right hand side 5km after the international Hanh Phuc Hospital on Highway 13. The full address is 7/308 Highway 13, Thuan An, Binh Duong. Call 06503 765115 or visit www.gomo.vn

BLANCHY STREET On Foursquare, Blanchy Street is listed as an Afghan restaurant. A bit off the mark, we think. While the flavours that will be migrating from its crossstreet predecessor, Blanchy’s Tash, are just as exotic, they’re from parts of the world without an Afghan in sight. The new restaurant in the Blanchy’s family will finally give former Nobu chef Martin Brito the proper staging point for his Japanese-Brazilian fusion cuisine. For some of the finest contemporary cuisine available in the city, whether it’s gingerdappled ceviche or Peruvian chilli-pasted sashimi you’re craving, Blanchy Street will be the place to get it.

Blanchy Street is in the courtyard at 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1

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January 2013 Word | 11

the talk

BROMA

ORIENTAL GARDEN Located in the hinterland of District 2 — also known as Thao Dien — O Orientall G Garden Southeast Asian restaurant d is the h llatest S h A to make its way to Vietnam.

Opened in November and focusing on Malaysian and Singaporean fare with a particular emphasis on seafood, three chefs from Malaysia specialise in a range of Straits-influenced cuisine including chilli crab, mee goreng, Hainanese chicken rice and sambal sotong (chilli sauce squid). With set lunches available as well as a large selection of a la carte options including the finger-lickingly good crispy aromatic duck, the restaurant can also make more complex dishes such as beef rendang, laksa and bah kut teh to order.

Oriental Garden is at 23 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2

There’s a rival ffor your Tuesday night socialising, on tthe other side of the downtown area from Lush. Broma is claiming not to be a bar, fairly set on cla ar, so what it is: it’s a rooftop let’s focus on w ftop hangout with a Medieval theme. e. It’s a restaurant with pan-world cuisine. uisine.

Shooters are offered free at the he drop of a hat, to men as well as women en (sometimes even on a Tuesday night!). Broma is a place that is willing to try y things, across a range of moods — movie ovie nights, imported beers, a fluorescent rescent fish tank, a bun bo Hue cocktail. Rumour has it that it’s even home to thee best mini lamb burger in town.

Broma is at 41 Nguyen en Hue, Q1

PEEKABOO

O M GALLERY O M stands for Olaf Mueller, not the ‘hug’ you’re used to on motorbikes, and these deadly digital creations feel like the opposite — chilly, distant, visions just out of reach. Whether its blowing soap bubbles over the terraced hills of China or observing an unsmiling Germanic blonde on stilts as she peers over a chain link, this Hong Kong-based gallery owner and curator will keep the uninitiated guessing from his new home in Thao Dien. Ho Chi Minh City’s art scene only stands to benefit from this new addition, as Mueller and his coterie begin to redefine the seemingly familiar landscape of Vietnam.

O M Gallery is at 216/8 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2

12 | Word January 2013

Starting off as a skate shop in Hanoi, Boo has extended its reach.

Already with a number of outlets around the capital, one has now opened in Ho Chi Minh City.

With its own, homegrown brands including Bo Sua and Infamous, and with everything designed inhouse, Boo Hai Ba Trung adds an extra element to the shopping experience — its premises are home to their very own set of traffic lights and even a bus stop.

Boo is at 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3926 0257.

For more information go to www.booskateshop.com or www.bosua.vn

January 2013 Word | 13

the talk LE BRASSERIE DE SAIGON Joining the Le Bouchon de Saigon and Le Steak Saigon family is another fine French restaurant, this time with the informal feel of a Parisian brasserie. Under the leadership of the France-trained Chef David Thai, Le Brasserie de Saigon is set to put on quite a show, between flamed desserts and fish prepared off-the-bone right in the dining room. Chic art nouveau décor, iron railings and a spiral staircase surrounds this dining experience — even the logo here is in the style of the old text used in Paris Metro station signage. But the streetside seafood stand draws the focus back to where it should be, on the fresh, authentic Parisian cuisine.

Le Brasserie de Saigon is at 38 Dong Du, Q1 on the corner of Hai Ba Trung

LE BANH MI

THE AIR UP THERE VietJetAir, already shortlisted internationally among the world’s best budget airlines, is taking another step on Feb. 10, the first day of the Lunar New Year, in becoming Vietnam’s first private airline to open an international route. The Bangkok — Ho Chi Minh City connection is already clickable on the airline’s website, and will start off with one round trip a day on a newly acquired Airbus 320.

For more information go to www.vietjetair.com

Serving up a gourmet but surprisingly inexpensive version of the Vietnamese banh mi, the tiny Le Banh Mi (12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1) has only been open a few months but is already proving to be a hit. With only three sandwich options on the menu — Umami, Phu Quoc and The Bale — all the banh mi come with roasted pork, cilantro, spring onions, cucumber and Dalat chilli. Prices start at VND35,000 for a banh mi on normal bread and VND40,000 for the same offering on baguette.

The work of well-known chef Andreas Ertle, with Sapporo on draft and wine sold by both the glass and the bottle, this sliver of a place has also become an after-work drinking haunt. And with later-night places like Bootleg Cafe, Sheridan's and Red Lion in close proximity, why not?

To get your banh mi delivered direct to your home or office, call 3822 1036

GIFTS WITH HAPPIMAP Santa may have come and gone, but one would like to think the act of giving is an allyear-round event — for birthdays, anniversaries or just because. If you are in need for a gift, Vietnam-based Happimap (www.happimap.com) may provide just the right idea.

You pay, the recipient chooses, or you choose and they collect. There are four simple steps in order to bring a “memorable golden moment” to your loved ones, and the gifts are anything from spa treatments through to hotel stays, sumptuous meals, rounds of golf and sessions of yoga. Huge in Europe, go find out for yourself and happy giving.

Happimap will be sold at a selection of retailers around town. For further information check out the website or email bique@happimap.com

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January 2013 Word | 15

The Buzz

WEDNESDAY MOVIES AT DECIBEL

ZOOM ACCELERATES INTO NEW TERRITORY

Backpacker area mainstay Zoom Café has had a makeover. The home of The Pham’s best burger has not only given its interior a lick of lime green paint, but has also overhauled its menu.

As ever a range of burgers heads up the list, with the likes of a chicken, bacon and cheeseburger with Sriracha dressing (VND99,000) added to the Zoom burger and Harley Topper burger. Other additions include a Carolina pulled pork sandwich, a range of spicy sausage sandwiches (fancy hot dogs to you and me), a selection of kickstarter sides as well as some western classics and a small selection of Vietnamese fare.

There’s a Cajun touch to the new Zoom, and open to 2am it’s a great option not only for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but for that hunger-quenching late night bite.

Zoom Café is at 169A De Tham, Q1

deciBel’s cool French style lends itself well to laid-back entertainment, and Wednesday nights are no exception. The Wednesday movie series takes advantage of January’s most plentiful weekday, with five performances spread out over the month. Jan. 2 features Nunta Muta (Silent Wedding), about a wedding taking place in the morning after the death of Stalin, and the weirdness continues with Virgin Suicides on Jan. 9, Ghost World on Jan. 16, Ao Lua Ha Dong (The White Silk Dress) on Jan. 23 and In Bruges on Jan. 30. deciBel Lounge is at 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1. The movies start at 8pm

TET COMES EARLY TO SAIGON SAIGON

1 PERCENT INSPIRATION Thomas Edison wasn’t the most recent person to recognise the hard work that needs to accompany inspiration, but hopefully his words will still have an effect on the 7 to 18-year-olds participating in the 5th annual Hoa Sen Short Story Writing Competition put on by the Australian International School.

The signature word this year is “Inspired,” which must appear in the story as proof of its contest-related purpose. All international students in Vietnam are free to participate for no fee, with 500 to 1,500 words due in by Mar. 11.

To submit or to inquire about more information, visit www. aisvietnam.com

ELECTRIC KICKS Everyone's a DJ is putting on Electric Kicks on Jan. 11, ‘a DIY indie electro sleazy discopunk dance party’. Again at Broma, it will have drink specials, free entry before 10 and good vibes.

Pe Dro, Hibiya Line and Superkid will be spinning some indie electro, nu disco and 1980s new wave in a house party atmosphere, where a free shot comes standard at the door.

Entry is VND50,000 (including that free shot), and the party starts Friday Jan. 11 at 9pm. Broma is at 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1

16 | Word January 2013

Unlike that old joke about tall people, it’s fair to ask how the weather is on the ninth floor of the Caravelle Hotel. On Jan. 22 it will be distinctly Tet-like, heating up with singers Minh Xu and Duyen Anh, dance troupe High Heels, Cuban heartthrobs Corazon Latino and envelopes filled with lucky money. Entrance is free at this Ciroc-sponsored blowout, which might keep you dancing until the real Tet comes.

Saigon Saigon Bar is on the ninth floor of the Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1

ECO-TOURISM COMES TO SAIGON Caravelle continues its efforts to stay ahead of the curve on conscientiousness, racking up Green Lotus status from Vietnam’s eco-tourism benchmarking body — the highest level of ecofriendliness there is. It’s a designation based on 81 criteria of energy efficiency, sustainability and contribution to the heritage and development of the local community, all of which Caravelle met or exceeded. This feather goes right next to the Silver Certified status given by EarthCheck eck (one of three properties in n Vietnam to qualify), and the hotel’s plans to go fully nonsmoking in 2013. It’s proof of that the hotel doesn’t look k as short-term as many of its guests, which should keep ep those same guests happy y well into the future.

The Caravelle Hotel is att 19 Lam Son Square, Q1

January 2013 Word | 17

SAIGON

CRICKET GREATS TO COME SAIGON Well-known ex-Australian cricketers Greg Chappell and Jeff Thompson will be flying to Vietnam on Mar. 22 for an informal gathering and a gala dinner for local cricket enthusiasts.

The Cricket Sportsmen Night, which is being organised by Austin Robinson, the former manager of cricketing legends Shane Warne, Dennis Lillie, Jeff Thompson and Rod Marsh, will be an opportunity for players of the world’s most controversial uncontroversial sport to exchange niceties with two of Australia’s best known cricketers. It will also be part of the celebrations marking the 40th anniversary of diplomatic ties between the Socialist Republic of Vietnam and Australia.

For further information or to discuss sponsorship opportunities, contact Glenn Nolan on 0907 378523. The venue will be confirmed closer to the date

SOUNDBITES OVERHEARD IN THE BIG CITY

FRENCH MOVIES AT IDECAF The Institute for Cultural Exchange with France has another slate of wacky, whimsical, chaotic movies lined up for January, all covering a range of themes but always with that inimitable French charm. On Jan. 5 watch those irascible Gauls Asterix and Obelix cavort around Egypt in the live-action Asterix & Obelix: Mission Cleopatra, or watch Donkey Skin on Jan. 12, The Girl on the Train on Jan. 19, The Kid with a Bike on Jan. 26 or The Artist on Feb. 2. All movies are presented in their original versions and are subtitled in Vietnamese and French. The shows kick off at 3pm.

Idecaf’s indoor projection hall is at 28 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

TUBELESS TYRE REPAIRS Following on from Pat Joynt’s recent article in Word about tubeless tyre repairs, he has been inundated with requests to stock the repair kits.

In response he has managed to bring in the complete kit for both cars and bikes including the mini Co2 canisters to re-inflate the wheel.

Costing US$75 (VND1,575,000), the kits are available both at the showroom in Tan Binh (25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh) and the shop at 80B Xuan Thuy, Q2

Hey, do you know what obesity is? A city with bees!

They've just brought out a Pizza Hut fragrance. Does it come with a stuffed crust?

GO2 GOES TWO Go2 recently extended their upstairs dance floor another level, for a total party zone encompassing two floors. The extension is connected to the main dance floor by a central stairway, and gives balcony views on the late-night dancers below.

Go2 is that place on the corner of De Tham and Bui Vien, across from that other place

I don't sleep vegetarian, either.

Do you smoke? No? Well you'll die anyway.

It's okay. When I'm drunk you're handsome.

WAR GOES WILD As part of their project to replenish the fish stocks of the country's waterways, Wildlife at Risk (WAR) has released more than 150 individuals of native fish into the Nhieu Loc Canal in Binh Thanh.

Including the rasbora trilineata (three-lined rasbora), betta splendens (Siamese fighting fish) and rasbora paviana (sidestripe rasbora), the fish were all bred in captivity as part of a programme started in February 2010 by WAR. To date, over 1300 individuals of four native fish species have been bred by WAR and released back into the wild.

For further information on the project go to www.wildlifeatrisk.org

So what you're saying is if you sunbathe naked, forget viagra.

You should hear her at bootcamp. She has like an hourlong orgasm.

You call this a French wine? It's not even a chateau. It's a chasse.

So you and I are going to meet the queen next month. I'll get my kilt ready.

You've got an MBE after your name. Does that mean you're a male British expat?

18 | Word January 2013

LUCIE BROCHARD Lucie Brochard’s new line of comfortable yet classy wardrobe items was materialised in the space between Ho Chi Minh City and Paris, where she identified a need for travel clothes to be both snug and stylish. The line emphasises a feminine silhouette, while incorporating tricks from men's tailoring at the same time. The Lucie Brochard Spring Summer 2013 collection is her first.

For more information, visit www.luciebrochard.com

January 2013 Word | 19

In the Papers THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

the talk AVON TO EXIT VIETNAM

CAO VIT GIBBON POPULATION ON THE RISE The population of cao vit gibbons in Vietnam, one of the world’s rarest and most endangered primates, has increased by 17 percent from 2007 and is five times its size compared to 2002, reports Fauna & Flora International (FFI).

Located in the Cao Vit Gibbon Conservation Zone in northern Cao Bang Province, there are now thought to be 129 cao vit gibbons living in the area, according to a two-week long survey conducted by a group of 31 scientists led by Nguyen The Cuong, a Vietnamese census coordinator of the cao vit gibbon, and Brian Crudge, technical advisor of the FFI Vietnam’s Primate Program. In 2007 there were 110 gibbons while in 2002 there were only 26.

According to FFI, the increase in the population size is due to FFI's conservation efforts in the area, which include improved forest protection, community outreach, livelihood development, environmental education, habitat restoration and ecological research. The cao vit gibbon is listed among the world’s 25 most endangered primates.

Avon, the world’s largest door-to-door cosmetics seller, will cut about 1,500 jobs globally and exit South Korea and Vietnam as part of plan to save US$400 million by the end of 2015.

CEO Sheri McCoy, who took over in April, announced the cost-cutting plans last month and said she would lower the company’s dividend as it works to recover from three years of declining profits. The move will be completed by the end of next year and will account for about 20 percent of Avon’s cost cutting savings target.

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT NOW OPEN IN PHU QUOC Vietnam’s newest international airport on Phu Quoc Island in the Mekong Delta’s province of Kien Giang opened at the end of last year.

The 900-hectare, VND16.2 trillion (US$777.4 million) Phu Quoc International Airport took four years to construct and is set to serve more than 2.6 million passengers each year.

The airport will enable the island district, which now receives around 600,000 passengers per year by airplane, to become a centre for tourism and services and connect it to other areas of Vietnam as well as international destinations. Vietnam currently has eight international and 13 domestic airports.

HYDROPOWER PROJECTS POSE THREATS TO NATIONAL PARK Two more hydropower plants that are planned to be built on the Serepok River in Dak Lak Province will contribute to threatening the ecological environment in Yok Don National Park, the park’s management warns.

Six hydropower plants have already been built on the Seperok River and the two new plants — Drang Phok and Serepok 4 — will both be located in Buon Don District, the core area of the park. About 53 hectares of park forest will be cleared and another 10 hectares will be temporarily occupied to make space for the plant. This will affect the local eco-system says the park’s management, and the emissions and noise from the construction will also frighten away wildlife.

VIETNAM'S RETAIL SECTOR IN DECLINE Due to several factors, Vietnam has lost its shine as an attractive location for retail investment since 2009, reports Saigon Giai Phong. One of the top 30 emerging retail markets in 2008, according to the annual GRDI report by A.T. Kearney, the country fell to 6th place in 2009, 14th in 2010, 23rd in 2011 and 32nd in 2012.

The causes of this fall are widespread and include an unpredictable economy as well as obstacles and barriers faced by investors when applying for business licences.

An additional disadvantage of doing business in Vietnam is costly rental space and difficulty in regaining consumer confidence. With purchasing power down, consumers have tightened spending and prefer bargain sales, for which enterprises have to continuously launch promotional programmes, offer discounts and give gifts to keep the consumer coming back to stores.

However, the continued 5 percent growth rate in GDP and a young population accounting for 50 percent in the country are causes for optimism. Sales of consumer appliances will register a 15 percent rise in 2013, says market research company GFK, and smartphone sales are predicted to rise by 100 percent.

20 | Word January 2013

GROWING GENDER IMBALANCE IN VIETNAM Sex ratios at birth are becoming increasingly imbalanced in favour of males and more than 4.3 million Vietnamese men will be unable to find a wife by 2050, according to a recent report announced at a conference in Hanoi.

The imbalance results from Vietnamese families' traditional preference for sons over daughters.

Nationwide sex ratios at birth in the first three months of 2012 were 112.3 males per 100 females, with a higher imbalance among the wealthy. Provinces in northern Vietnam were particularly affected. The sex ratios at birth in 2011 in Hai Duong, Nam Dinh, Thanh Hoa, Lao Cai, Lang Son and Bac Ninh exceeded the 120:100 ratio, while the north central province of Quang Binh topped last year’s list at 127 males per 100 females.

At the current rate, by 2050 there will be 12 percent more males than females among people under 50 years old.

January 2013 Word | 21

January CALENDAR TUE

MON 01

WED NEW YEAR’S DAY CELEBRATION. @Saigon Cafe, Sheraton Hotel

02

NUNTA MUTA SCREENING. 8pm at deciBel (79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, D1)

SALSA DANCING @ La Fenetre Soleil every Wed. MODELS AND BOTTLES. 9pm every Wed. at Sin Lounge

07

GBA MONTHLY MEETING. At New World

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm from Mon to Fri. at Hog’s Breath ROMANTIC ACOUSTIC NIGHT. 8.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

14

08

LADIES NIGHT. Free bottle for a group of 5 ladies. 9pm every Tue. at Lavish

LIVE ACOUSTIC NIGHT. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Habana MUSIC QUIZ NIGHT @ La Fenetre Soleil every Tue.

15

09

NEW YEAR CONCERT 2013. 8pm @ The Opera House (9 Cong Truong Lam Son, D1)

HAPPY HOUR. 3pm to 6pm every day at BMV

STEAK & ALE NIGHT for VND250,000+.

Every Wed. at Hog’s Breath ITALIAN MOVIES @ Pendolasco, 7.15pm every other Wed. LADIES NIGHT. 9pm every Tue. at Lush

21

WTF MONDAY. 7pm every Mon. at Sin Lounge

HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at MM Bistro Saigon AGM MEETING AT MOEVENPICK. Visit www.gba-vietnam.org for info

28

TAPAS FIESTA & WINE. through the night. 7.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

22

23

EARLY TET PARTY WITH CIROC. At Rooftop Caravelle Hotel CANCHAM'S 8TH ANNUAL CRYSTAL BALL. 11am to 2pm at New World Saigon Hotel. Email hcmc@canchamvietnam. org for info

29

ROOTS. 9pm every Tue. at Blanchy’s Tash

BLIND TEST. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Fenetre Soleil FABULOUS NIGHT OUT FOR MEN. Buy 1 get 1 free. 9pm every Tue. at Level 23 Nightspot

22 | Word January 2013

THU 03

LIVE ACOUSTIC. 8.30pm every Thu. at La Habana

LIVE MUSIC WITH JURAM. 9pm every Wed. at Pacharan

DAILY HAPPY HOUR. From 4pm to 8pm every day at Saigon Saigon Bar, offering two-for-one deal

10

17

FITNESS CLASSES @ The Boathouse, 8.30am every Mon., Wed. & Fri. Email info@cyril-and-you.com for info IN BRUGES SCREENING. 8pm at deciBel

EARLY BIRDS’ HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Sat. & 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana

REVEALED CONCEALED: ALTERED ICONS EXHIBITION. From Dec. 5 to Jan. 5 at Galerie Quynh ELECTRIC KICKS FRIDAY. 9pm @ Broma (Fl.2, 41 Nguyen Hue)

HAPPY HOUR. with house wine, beer and cocktail.

4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Mekong Merchant

18

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm every day at Pacharan

I AM HIP HOP @ Velvet, 9pm every Fri. HOUSE SPIRITS for VND20,000. 5pm to 7pm every Fri. at Phatty’s

SBA MEETING @ Swiss Chalet (54 Pasteur, Q1), every 2nd Thu. of the month.

FRIDAY FIESTA. 9pm at La Habana

24

THIRSTY THURSDAY. 8.30pm every Thu. @ Lush SALSA CLASSES at 7.30pm and Jazz Night at 8.30pm.

Every Thu. at La Habana

31

NEW 2 COURSE SET LUNCH for VND185,000. From Mon. to Fri. at Hog’s Breath

JAZZ NIGHT WITH MARIEDEL. 8.30pm everyy Thu. at La Fenetre Soleilil

25

SAT 05

SPICED UP LADIES NIGHT. 9pm every Thu. at Hard Rock Cafe

THE YEAR AHEAD - EXECUTIVE SUMMARY OUTLOOK 2013. 11am at New World. Email hcmc@canchamvietnam.org for info

MARGARITA MADNESS @ Khoi Thom, 7pm every Wed.

04

11

BEATS AND BOTTLES: DANCE TO DJ D-ROC'S TUNES. Every Thursday Night @ Martini Bar

PURE. 8pm every Wed. at Blanchy’s Tash

30

FRI

THIRSTY THURSDAY NIGHT PUB QUIZ. 8pm every Thu. at Ruby Soho

VIRGIN SUICIDES SCREENING. 8pm at deciBel

16

ROCK & MOVIE NIGHT. 5pm to 9pm every Mon. at Hard Rock Café

ACOUSTIC LADY NIGHT. 8.30pm every Wed. at La Habana

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Jan. 18 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

PERONI FRIDAY’S @ Vino, 4pm to 7pm every Fri.

KINKY FRIDAYS. 9pm every Fri at Blanchy’s Tash EVERYONE'S A DJ SOUND ADVENTURES. 9pm at la Fenetre Soleil

DJ NIGHTS @ Xu, 10pm every Sat.

SUN 06

BREAKFAST EVERYDAY & WEEKEND BRUNCH with new menu. 8am at Hog’s Breath

ASTERIX & OBELIX: MISSION CLEOPATRA SCREENING. 3pm at IDECAF

MEATY MORNING BRUNCHES. Every Sun. at Restaurant Nineteen, Caravelle Hotel

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm every day at Pacharan

SUNDAY DINNER BUFFET. 6.30pm every Sun. at Li Bai Restaurant, Sheraton

12

13

DONKEY SKIN SCREENING 3pm at IDECAF

19

MIDNIGHT XPRESS. 11pm every Sat. at Last Call

SUNDAY PAELLAS & HAPPY HOUR. 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana

DAILY HAPPY HOUR. From 4pm to 8pm every day at Saigon Saigon Bar, offering two-for-one deal CHAMPAGNE SUNDAY BRUNCH. 11.30am every Sun. at Saigon Café, Sheraton

20

FREE SAUSAGE SIZZLE. Every Sun. at Hog’s Breath

SABADO NIGHT. 9pm every Sat. at La Habana

HAPPY HOUR. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck

FESTIVE THEME DINNER. 6pm every Sat. in Dec. at Saigon Café

LUCIOUS FRENCH PASTRIES. From Jan. 19 to 25 at Lobby Lounge, Caravelle Hotel

26

HAPPY HOUR. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck

27

RELAX ACOUSTIC. 8.30pm every Sun. at La Habana

IYENGAR YOGA WEEKEND WORKSHOPS. From Jan. 25 to Jan. 27 at Saigon Yoga.

Email info@saigonyoga.com for info

VISTA TET BAZAAR. 10am @ Vista Walk (628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, D2)

VIETNAMESE ROCK STORM. Call 09323 32804 for tickets and info

AN AWESOME AUSSIE NIGHT. 6pm every Sun. at Saigon Café, Sheraton

OVER

SCENE

INDIE SAIGON

ELECTRIC KICKS Electric Kicks out the jams at Broma

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS

Brett Newski and the Corruption took the stage at Hard Rock CafĂŠ for the release of their first LP, Tiny Victories PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

SHAKEN, NOT STIRRED BBGV celebrated 50 years of James Bond with Christmas cheer and live music from the Pho Fighters

HIGH-OCTANE A new Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf opened in PetroVietnam Towers

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY COFFEE BEAN

FREESTYLE PHOTOS BY CHARLES BARNES

Stand-Up Saigon dropped some science at Mc'Sorley's

24 | Word January 2013

PHOTOS BY BIZ-EYES

JOKES!

The top street dancing crews in Vietnam took the stage at Gossip to crown a national champion in the Centaur Dance Showdown

Insider

THE SALSA MAN / DON'T STOP BELIEVIN' / COVER STORY

SAIGON ILLUSTRATION BY EDDY COUBEAUX

nose when walking through or you were in big trouble. Let’s just say that it was a strong smell.”

Salsa is a love, a passion and a hobby in which Patrick and his wife bond as a team.

Together they make the delicious sauce Dos Chiles which is the envy of many of their friends, who always ask ‘where do you buy this stuff?’ It is that delicious.

“I tell them I don’t buy it — I make it,” explains Patrick. “You can be guaranteed that the next thing they say is — ‘go into business and make this your living‘. I know what they are saying and maybe it is the life that has been mapped out for me. I suppose it is a matter of timing.”

Timeless Patrick’s secret recipe is sacred but he confesses he has tweaked it a little over the years. He feels a little guilty about this, as the salsa ingredients have been protected and cherished for so long, though he is sure his ancestors will understand.

After some family research Patrick pinpointed the first family salsa recipe to the end of the 1890s. His grandfather was Spanish, his grandmother Cherokee Indian/Mexican, the elders of a salsa lineage that came to the Rio Grande Valley four generations ago.

His grandmother learned the recipe from her mother and taught his mother. At six years old he started eating spicy food and learned how to make the special sauce when he was just 16. No-one in his family has ever made a living out of the recipe, but Patrick is resigned to making that a reality.

“Before my son was born I went back to the States and it was the last time I saw my grandmother alive,” he recalls. “She got me thinking about family and I started making the sauce again after a few years out. I also had the idea of teaching my son how to make it. At around the same time a lot of my friends [in Vietnam] said ‘why don’t you sell it?’ I said ‘well it’s a family thing you know’. I got talked into making more of it, and word got around and then I started to think, wait a minute here. It has picked up and over the last year I have made around 350 litres. All the sales have been through word of mouth — it’s not something I’ve looked at as a business, but it is looking that way.”

He adds: “I do it for fun. It’s a passion

for me and if the business happens it happens. Teaching English is my bread and butter in Vietnam. I was a kitchen manager in the States at a seafood restaurant and my background is in the hospitality and restaurant business.”

Homegrown Patrick loves all things Vietnamese, but he admits his neck tightens and his anxieties mount at the mere mention of the word MSG — a favourite with southern cooking.

His sauce has no preservatives, no artificial colourings, no artificial flavourings and is 100 percent natural.

Though he will take his secret recipe to the grave, he warns any newcomers in the salsa game “there is more to making salsa than tomato sauce, cilantro, onions and chilli pepper”. He buys his non-homegrown ingredients from Maximart and of course cultivates his own chillis, but not on his roof where other vegetables grow.

“There is something wonderful about being around plants and especially on the roof with the view,” he says. “Plants don’t ask anything from you, just be nice to them and take care of them and you will be rewarded. I grow vegetables on my roof, but it’s too hot to grow chillis there, I grow them on the balcony.

The leaves can’t handle the heat. If I can put a cover on the roof, then maybe I can expand my operation.”

The charismatic Texan proudly shows off his professionally designed logo and business card, and admits the more he thinks about this, the more he wants to share his family’s heritage with Vietnam. Maybe he’ll even make a buck or two as well.

But it is no easy feat in his game. It takes eight hours to cook the sauce and he currently makes 20 litres at a time, and that’s not including preparation of vegetables and fruit.

He grows four different chillis and the salsa comes in three different levels of spiciness: non-spicy, medium and special.

His salsa skills made his university years a breeze with his popularity secured as word spread of the Mexican salsa master.

Now it’s time to win some new friends.

“Though he will take his secret recipe to the grave, he warns any newcomers in the salsa game there is more to making salsa than tomato sauce, cilantro, onions and chilli pepper ”

THE MANY FACES OF SAIGON

The Salsa Man In a small corner of Tan Binh, Derek Milroy discovers a 40-year-old man pondering a real dilemma with his Mexican-American upbringing that revolves around homegrown chillis and the production of salsa. Photo by Mads Monsen 28 | Word January 2013

T

exas-born Patrick Leija makes his living teaching corporate English, and admits he is quite comfortable as he laps up the good life with his Vietnamese wife and four-year-old son.

However, his family heritage is causing him sleepless nights as he debates whether to make the biggest gamble of his life.

Patrick has Mexican-American-Cherokee Indian roots, but it is the chilli plants that proudly sit on his balcony in Tan Binh that are giving him food for thought.

“Salsa has been in my family for over 120 years and is the bedrock of so many of my cherished childhood memories,” he says. “I remember as a kid smelling salsa from the kitchen and you had to hold your

If you fancy trying out Saigon’s number one salsa, contact Patrick on 0902 527131, go to www.facebook.com/DosChilesSalsa or email doschilessalsa@gmail.com.

January 2013 Word | 29

“They’re avoiding the standard music bar set filled with greasy covers and dolled-up front men. It’s something the scene has been lacking for years” SCENE

Don’t Stop Believin’ One of a new breed of expat bands dedicated to playing original tunes, Ed Weinberg waxes musical with Brett Newski and the Corruption, and asks, what do they have to do to get some success? Photo by Francis

O

n the vanguard of Ho Chi Minh City’s original music scene, Brett Newski and the Corruption are taking some chances. For one — they’re out there at all. They’re being themselves in front of audiences that don’t always reward that. And they’re avoiding the standard music bar set filled with greasy covers and dolled-up front men. It’s something the scene has been lacking for years.

There are some pluses to this underexposed scene, as bassist Jeffro Gantner explains, “Vietnamese audiences have the common courtesy to never scream out, ‘PLAY SOME SKYNYRD, MAN!’ Even when they're drunk.” But getting their sounds and act out to the masses is a struggle. It’s a cultural divide that is real for this expat band with Saigon

30 | Word January 2013

The Album: Tiny Victories roots, and something they’re still trying to figure out. You only need to look at the YouTube comments garnered by last year’s hit rap track, Oi Gioi Oi by British rapper EP, to realise what the issues are.

Despite the 400,000 hits, many Vietnamese just don’t want music made in Vietnam to be composed by foreigners. Yet, when the music comes from overseas, they’re happy to listen to it.

Never Say No “The Backstreet Boys are still a massive band in Southeast Asia,” frontman Brett reasons. “We can never be sexier, ‘better’ singers than Backstreet. So hopefully the Vietnamese will get into grizzly-looking drummers with larger-than-life chest hair.”

Their positive assault on the status quo includes a new album, Tiny Victories.

They played the Culture ONE festival in Bangkok repping Saigon, and toured the US and South Africa, too. They cartoonised themselves and drummer Matt Green’s British Bulldog, Winston (Winston talks a lot of smack on their Facebook page, and might smoke cigars).

They’re trying things.

The feel of their music is jangly indie, with driving guitars and high-ranged harmonics that verge on the poppy. Brett jumps around a lot at shows, when not appealing to the crowd with punk legend Jonathan Richman openness in his plaintive brown eyes, or doubled over his guitar, mid-riff.

“Our mission is to get people's blood pumping and put contagious melodies in their ears,” Brett says. “It would be great to develop indie rock music in Saigon, but it’s going to take a few years. Right now,

the two big genres are metal and V-pop — eventually a middle ground must be formed. Melodic rock-and-roll seems like a great genre to fill that void.”

Jeffro adds: “I believe we can affect the shape of the music scene here, even a little, because I don't believe the modern original music mould has been cast in Saigon.”

So there’s opportunity here, this much we know. But why should Saigon support this band that wants to mould its tastes?

“We all really appreciate [this city],” Brett says. “We sing about it. While we don’t speak fluent Vietnamese, Saigon is the foundation of our band.”

But the band’s connection runs deeper than that, as Jeffro explains, “Saigon is so diverse and crazy that sometimes I get ideas over a plate of banh cuon while the recycling ladies pedal by.”

Let’s start with a verse, from the song Buenos Aires — “On the streets of Saigon all the mayhem keeps me sane / All the comforts of Wisconsin are a memory in my brain / I am done with sitting pretty there is hobo in my heart / And what used to be neurosis has become a healthy start.”

These lyrics are as close to a central statement as we get from this excellent, first full-length album from Brett Newski and The Corruption. It’s expat rock, in the finest sense — that which sees a familiar world with new eyes.

It feels like a tour we’re taken on, from proverbial cramped ovens in New York to cliff-jumping in Eau Claire, from the penthouse of rich folks to a highway in suburban Ho Chi Minh City. Like reporters on the emotional truth of a

situation, the band takes us through the highs and lows of a drifting life.

The album is called Tiny Victories “because winning the small battles is what keeps you motivated as a band,” explains Brett. “Nothing happens overnight, it’s a long slow burn… There’s nothing more subjective than music.”

This metaphor extends into the lyrics as well, from running out of gas in Saigon to the refrain of In Between Exits, a mid-tempo warble through harmonicas and whammy bars, led on by a whimsical guitar lead and Brett’s confessional tenor: “It’s kind of cathartic / When you get brokenhearted.” This might even be considered a pyrrhic victory, if it wasn’t for the gallows humour that goes along with it, and makes everything seem okay in retrospect.

For more information, go to www. brettnewskiandthecorruption.com.

January 2013 Word | 31

FEATURE

The Knights of the

Street With petty street theft affecting almost every part of the city, groups of fearless citizens have begun protecting the streets. Words by Derek Milroy

32 | Word January 2013

D

awn will never forget that night.

She had come to Vietnam with her two best friends for a dream holiday which took her a year of savings to pay for. She was out shopping at Ben Thanh Market with her friends but she could sense something was not right.

A few seconds later she spotted two men hovering around near the market stall where she was haggling with a persistent seller. She noticed that she had temporarily lost her two friends, and handed the man VND200,000 for a tacky souvenir she didn’t even want just to get out of there.

The English tourist, 29, felt relieved as she sat down to await her friends at the agreed meeting point, a seafood restaurant. Just as she checked her phone for any messages, she felt someone brush past her. She panicked and looked around to check that her personal belongings were still there.

Her bag was on the floor under her foot and her phone was in her hand, but when she touched her neck the gold necklace her mother had bought her when she was a child was gone. She shouted, “Help, robber!” The waiters at the restaurant gave her a glass of water and tried to calm her down, but what could they do?

Dawn is not the only one. She was targeted due to her presence in a busy tourist area. But it is not only international visitors who are victims, ordinary Saigonese are also getting sick and tired of robbers running riot on the city streets — and are taking matters into their own hands.

In Safe Hands?

The Knights of the Street, as they are

known, voluntarily hunt down thieves — who snatch purses, bags, phones, motorbikes or anything they can get their hands on from tourists and locals alike.

The volunteers have been highly praised for protecting ordinary citizens, despite not being official law enforcers. They are regarded as an extra pair of hands for fighting crime in the city.

They are media darlings and have been complimented by authorities at all levels.

It’s all put the white knights on a bit of a pedestal. But, while the powers that be are rushing to praise them, some people are becoming concerned about these growing bands of vigilantes.

In recent times they have overstepped the mark and some now think they are above the law. One case saw street knights jailed for causing the accidental deaths of robbers. Another group of vigilantes was also imprisoned for taking bribes from street thieves.

Neighbourhood Watch Word approached a member of the growing number of white knights. Nguyen Duc, who patrols the streets of Phu Nhuan District, insists that both himself and his compadres are performing a valuable role in Saigon society.

“We are the guardians of the street,” he says. “We try to cover as many streets and areas of the city as possible, so people can ride safely at night and during the day.

People think the robbers only operate at night, but they are there also during the day as the streets are very busy.”

Duc decided to join up after his motorbike was stolen from outside his house. His wife’s bag had been stolen a

few months earlier, and this was too much.

He was so enraged he called some friends and set up his own knights gang.

“In the western world I think you call it neighbourhood watch,” he explains. “We try our best to keep an eye on the local areas where we all live, and main roads.

We try to protect our area and we are not doing anything wrong are we? We haven’t broken any laws and we have caught a few robbers. We have stopped many robberies already.”

But a number of city residents are concerned with the power the knights have. They are scared that these people have assumed an authority to chase, catch, eavesdrop or spy on other people.

Hero or Villain?

Vigilantes roaming the city’s streets is nothing new. But according to one veteran knight, many of these groups are going about it the wrong way.

Phan Dung, 60, sits at home taking care of his grandchildren and enjoying semiretirement as he helps out in his family store. However, the Honda SH 150i which sits in the corner is a clue to his past life as a volunteer crook-catcher.

When most people his age are resting at home, he rides his motorbike like a bat out of hell, whizzing around the city streets like there is no tomorrow.

“Many, many years ago I worked in the city helping to catch robbers,” he says. “I was trained by officials for some months how to ride fast and safe through the city, and I helped catch thieves. It was very dangerous so I had to cover my face to make sure the robbers didn’t see me. Most nights I worked very late. It was exciting,

yes, and helped me learn how to ride really fast, and I have never crashed my bike. It’s very rare for a Vietnamese to say that.”

He is another citizen who is concerned with the knight’s motives and their methods, which he believes set a dangerous precedent.

He adds: “Are the white knights good or bad? The difference with my case was I was working with local officials. I think the white knights may create big problems in the future. I think they only want to help out, but it doesn’t mean what they are doing is the right thing.”

So what about Dawn? She tried to stay strong, but ended up sobbing hysterically, right there in the restaurant. The gold chain had been her mother’s — her mother had passed away the year before.

Fortunately a few moments later she was back with her shocked friends, who tried to provide comfort to her. No matter how much they tried to help her, the emotional value attached to the stolen chain couldn’t be replaced.

Some would argue that the poverty in Vietnam is an excuse for such behavior.

But is Dawn wealthy? No. Like most of the victims she is just a normal human being.

Robbers steal from the poor and rich alike, and in growing numbers.

The knights may believe that they have the moral high ground but it only takes a few unsavoury incidents to see them fall from grace and instead of the people’s champions, they will be regarded as another team of crooks. But whether you love them or loathe them, as long as robbers and gangs continue to steal motorbikes, bags and mobile phones, you can be sure there will be knights on their tail.

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CONFESSIONS

Confessions of a Maid

Nhi, 29 I was hired by my employer, a single man, a few years ago. He had a good job and seemed like such a sweet, nice man.

I walked his dog, looked after him in his house and did cleaning. The first three months he was so sweet but then he was very horrible. He became a crazy man with a real temper. I enjoyed the job but I felt like dying. I did the job for one year and then he hit me.

The day before it happened he checked the house and garden and said, ‘It looks great. Thank you’. The next morning I cleaned up the yard and garden, and inside the house. I knocked on his door to

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wake him up at 9am; I went through to the living room to turn on the television to his favourite channel and made cappuccino and served it on the tray with his matching napkin. He exploded and said: ’I want TV on my channel, clean house and my cappuccino should be served in perfect time!’ I just said ‘yes sir’and went to my room to do some ironing.

An hour later he called me, ‘What have you done with the yard?’ Even though I cleaned it very nicely he shouted [that] there were new grown weeds. He was swearing and yelling. He was now insulting me and I walked away. It was raining and I was getting wet, but he

followed me and grabbed me and was treating me like a dog. I tried to push him off with my hands but he twisted my arms and pushed me into the corner of the dining table. He was yelling, ‘You have to stay; you can’t leave or walk away from me!’ He twisted and squeezed my arms and it hurt so much.

I ran away to a friend’s house a few streets away and we went to the police to report him. I filed a complaint against him and the police took me to the hospital to be checked.

The police called him and he promised not to do it again. He apologised to me but still made my life hell with mental abuse,

From one poor girl going through a living hell, another catching her employer in bed with a lover and one discovering a family secret, the role of the domestic maid is a real eye-opener. Words by Derek Milroy. Photo by Nam Quan

although he never hit me again.

Bao Huong, 25 I work as a maid for a lovely family and love my job. I work for old couple and job so easy. The home is very beautiful and I even get to stay and the man is a gentleman, he never gives me any trouble, and the lady is nice.

One day, though, I saw something I shouldn’t have. It was my day off but I came to collect some things I had left behind as I was going back to see my family in my home province.

I opened the door and walked up the stairs. I could hear noises from the couple’s

room but was sure the man was away with friends playing golf.

I was scared and tried to sneak out without anyone seeing me but I saw a young man walking around with just a towel on and he went into the bedroom. He didn’t see me but now I can hardly look at the woman, and feel bad for the man.

Duyen, 51 I have been a maid many years but I was going to finish up and move back to my family home. A friend called me to take care of her father for a few months. He was an old man and was a little messy but had a small house so it was not difficult.

One day we sat down to drink some coffee and he asked me if I wanted to see his collection. I agreed and was very shocked. He had so many gold bars I couldn’t count. I never see so many. I was very surprised as his home was very small and not beautiful. He told me to keep it a secret as the gold is for his grandchildren.

I was very scared and told my friend that he has to be careful of robbers. She laughed at me. She said, ‘Any robber who go near my father would have to be strong.

My father fought in the war and is still very strong’.

The image above is for illustration purpose only and the people are not related to the stories.

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COVER STORY

PICKING UP THE PIECES It was a conversation about mushroom farming that first truly piqued the interest in Quang Tri. One organisation, Project RENEW, was helping victims of explosions from leftover war ordnance sustainably claw their way out of poverty through a system of micro loans and the cultivation of wood ear and linghzi mushrooms. It was an unlikely story, and where so many other NGO schemes over time had proved impractical, this was an unmitigated success. We were told we would be able to meet both the beneficiaries and the victims, and hear their stories first hand.

But there was more than that to draw us into making the trip to Central Vietnam.

For years a disproportionate number of NGOs and local organisations had been focusing their work on Quang Tri — it was clear this was a province with real, tangible needs. DMZ tours out of Hue had been running since the 1990s, with trips to Vinh Moc Tunnels, the Ben Hai River and the former base at Khe Sanh. And yet, badly marketed, few tourists take advantage of these trips, preferring instead the more accessible, and commercially appealing delights of close-by Hoi An. A recent, wellappointed museum — the Mine Action Visitor Centre — had been opened in Quang Tri's principle city, Dong Ha, and if the countryside of Hue, the next province down, could be relied on, there would be some spectacular scenery here, too.

It all added up to a fascinating journey, a trip to a part of Vietnam that was on the front line of the war, but by hook or by crook was grappling its way towards a better future. It was a story of hope, a story of pain, a story of survival. It was a story that needed to be told.

WORDS BY NICK ROSS. PHOTOS BY FRANCIS ROUX SPECIAL THANKS TO NORWEGIAN PEOPLE’S AID (NPA) Long Hung Church on the edge of Quang Tri Citadel

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QUANG TRI Area: 4,739.8 km2 Population: 604,700 (2011) Population Density: 128 people / km2 Ethnic Groups: Kinh, Bru-Van Kieu, Hoa, Ta Oi Capital: Dong Ha Administrative divisions: (Town) Quang Tri; (Districts) Vinh Linh, Gio Linh, Cam Lo, Trieu Phong, Hai Lang, Huong Hoa, Con Co and Dakrong

Above and below: Monuments on either side of Ben Hai River, the former demarkation line between north and south. Right: A concealed tunnel entrance at Vinh Moc

PARALLEL LINES

Beneath the sun, sea and sand, from Vinh Moc Tunnels to the ruins of Long Hung Church, a trip up the Quang Tri coast reveals a history that goes far deeper than the scenery.

“Are there any nice beaches here?”

A look of bemusement is the response to my question. Having encountered some astonishing stretches of sand to the south, I’m determined to discover what exists in Quang Tri. I rephrase the question.

“There must be some beaches in Quang Tri, really nice ones. Everywhere else in Vietnam has them.”

A quick discussion ensues between the three men, all NGO workers, all team leaders and project managers. Eventually they seem to agree on somewhere, but the looks remain quizzical. “We only go to the beach to eat and get drunk,” says one, still confused. “Or as a child,” another pipes in. With the way the land lies in Quang Tri, beaches just don’t come into the itinerary.

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Covering the width of the 17th Parallel, the boundary that once served as a front line between north and south, Quang Tri’s positioning in the country made it the grounds for some of the worst damage of the war. And it’s still trying to clean up the mess. Fighting, bombing, Agent Orange — near total devastation — left this otherwise nondescript slip of Central Vietnam in tatters. The former citadel was flattened with now only the ruins of a church and a school to show for 150 years' worth of history. A staggering statistic reveals that even today, 83 percent of the land has yet to be cleared of unexploded ordnance (UXO).

And despite being home to some of the most eye-opening, grandiose scenery in the country, Quang Tri’s principle city of

Dong Ha is not even a stopping point. Ten years ago, the backpacker tourist trail ran through here courtesy of the bus route to Savannakhet, Laos. But a new well-paved mountain road connecting the Lao Bao border point with Hue, via A Luoi has changed all that. Now the buses bypass this provincial capital, going instead directly to Hue.

UP THE LINE

Around lunchtime the next day Nguyen Thanh Phu picks us up to drive north.

Formerly a tourist guide based in Hoi An, like his colleagues he is a well-educated, English-speaking professional who has avoided the brain drain lure of the big city. Instead he now devotes his life to his

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A fisherman at sunset on Cua Viet Beach

vocation, helping to clean up the mess that is Quang Tri. He is passionate, not just about decontaminating his home, but about telling the story and helping those affected by the aftermath — he wants to make Quang Tri a better place. His energy, an unusual dynamism, is not the first to have struck us over the duration of our trip. There are many others like Phu, who believe in their ability to make a difference to their wounded home.

On a trip where we would be visiting Phu’s museum, meeting victims of UXO explosions, going to a mushroom farming facility and seeing first-hand the clearance work undertaken by the NGOs, we considered joining an easy backpacker tour to see the contrast in travel experience through the DMZ (Demilitarised Zone) and

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Khe Sanh. But the idea was quickly binned; posing as backpackers would have been an insult to our hosts who had stretched the boundaries of hospitality to show us their home, its positives, its beauty, its problems and its goals.

FOX HOLES

Anyone who has visited Cu Chi in southern Vietnam will tell you of the claustrophobic tunnels. Dark, narrow and only high enough for you to stoop; how people in the throes of war managed to live in the condensed terror has become the source of many a heroic story.

In comparison the tunnels of Vinh Moc are palatial — well-lit, less humid, and easy to navigate.

Located north of the former demilitarised zone, they were originally built as shelters from intense bombing. With nowhere else to go, the villagers of Vinh Moc dug tunnels and moved 12 metres underground. The space was then gradually increased to 30 metres.

Over time the complex grew to include three levels of wells, kitchens, rooms for each family and healthcare stations. Around 60 families lived here, and as many as 17 children were born underground. During the six years the villagers had to retreat from life on the surface, not one person lost their life.

Today most of the tunnels are easily accessible through entrances in a carefully manicured bamboo forest. Other doorways remain shrouded by thick foliage and hidden from view — a throwback to the concealment of the past. Following the labyrinth of

passages, stairs going down, deeper and deeper, the struggle for survival is clearly evident. In nearly all of modern day Vietnam, such travails are a distant memory. However, here the battle for survival on the outside is still very much being fought.

THE BEACH

Upon leaving the tunnels, the beach discussion somehow re-emerges. Our hosts are still not quite sure what we are looking for. And Cua Tung, the stretch of sand just south of Vinh Moc, is not it.

Developed some years back, the beachside has been replaced by concrete sea walls, the natural replenishment of sand has been disrupted and already starting to erode. Even the hotels overlooking the sea seem strangely disfigured. “I used to come

here as a kid,” says one of our hosts. “It was much more beautiful back then.”

With beaches stretching endlessly south — many deserted — eventually we end up in Cua Viet, a coastal area close to Dong Ha that is in the process of being developed. Once again it is a development that leaves much to be desired: plastic-stool restaurants with the odd deckchair rental option for those with cash to splash. There is no shade or greenery, just the standard, but fortunately quite light, collection of litter. Yet, the sand here is fine; coloured somewhere between European beach yellow and tropical paradise white. And standing on the edge of the vista that connects land, beach, horizon and sea, you can envision how with a bit of foresight, this could become a beautiful destination.

Returning to the car, the talk quickly leaves the beach and moves on to the afternoon light. The sunset around us is sensational, a photographer’s late afternoon dream, and our man behind the lens has caught some picture perfect, fisherman-onthe-beach shots. He is beaming. Our hosts, too, have captured the light. With our final destination a 20-minute drive away, our only concern now is getting to Long Hung Church in Quang Tri Citadel before dark.

We make it, just in time to see this building that despite bombardment, bullet holes in its walls and a lack of proper preservation, is acting as an epitaph to the past.

Along with the tunnels, this is the highlight of the day. Our hosts were correct; if you’re coming to Quang Tri, don’t come for the beaches.

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SILVER LINING It’s a well-worn phrase, behind every cloud… Three beneficiaries of charity and NGO aid in Quang Tri tell their stories.

At the end of October, Bui Manh Thang was dismantling some scrap metal on his porch in the village of Nai Cuu Phong.

Suddenly there was an explosion. The blast was heard by neighbours who rushed to his house to find him seriously wounded. None of his family was at home.

The 67-year-old was transferred to Quang Tri Hospital for advanced trauma care. Surgeons had to amputate his right hand. He also suffered severe injuries to his left hand, neck, jawbone, left knee and both feet.

According to his daughter, Bui Thi Thu Hoai, Thang had been scavenging scrap ordnance for years as a way to get additional income. Another member of the family confirmed this, adding that the grandchildren would often be playing in the house while their grandfather was playing with bits of scrap metal.

“Almost everyone in the village has to scavenge [for scrap metal],” says Hoai. “We are really poor. We need the money from the scrap for extra income.”

THE SUCCESS STORIES

Do Thien Dang currently earns a meagre living by making bamboo strips into hoops and pedestals for flower arrangements, as well as growing mushrooms. In 1980 he was badly injured and lost both legs. His additional income generation without excessive extra labour serves as a role model to other victims of unexploded ordinance (UXO) explosions.

“I was just walking normally on a hill,” he recalls. “I didn’t know there were any mines there. But I stepped on one, it exploded and I fell into a coma. The next thing I knew I woke up in hospital in Hue. The villagers had brought me there.”

He has since married, fathered three daughters and has managed to eek out a living. What happened was “bad luck. So, I just accept it and get on with my life. It was my fate.”

He adds: “I’m lucky that I’m still alive. Every cloud has a silver lining.”

In 2003 Dang became one of the first farmers involved in the Project RENEW Livelihood Assistance Programme. He has since, in one person’s estimation, become the project’s ‘champion grower’. This year he has progressed from growing the cheaper, but easier to cultivate

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wood ear mushrooms, to the more prized linghzi mushroom. Used for its medicinal qualities, the market value for a kilogram of linghzi is between VND700,000 and VND800,000.

“Lingzhi requires much more attention,” explains Dang. “The temperature is the decisive factor. I always have to moderate it. When it gets too high, I have to spray the mushrooms with water. I also have to prevent the wind getting in.

So, I’ve reinforced the growing house with more bamboo posts.”

With an expected yield of approximately 10kg from the 500 mushroom blocks in his care, the harvest won’t make him wealthy. But in an economy based on barter, trade and subsistence farming, it provides a vital injection of cash.

PICKING UP THE SCRAPS

A week after his accident, Thang is no longer disorientated. But, bed-bound and in the local hospital, he still can’t sit up. When the ordnance exploded he lost a lot of blood — fragments hit the artery in the left side of his neck. Besides his amputated right hand and other injuries, his body is covered in black burn marks.

Yet he remains positive.

“I was careless and I’ve been very unlucky,” he says. “But I’m lucky to be alive, extremely fortunate not to have any injuries to any of my organs.”

When asked about his hopes, his answer is simple. “I’m hoping to have some assistance from above to get a loan to raise buffalos and cows.

I don’t dare to ask for more.” From the various conversations we have with NGO workers, it seems that Project RENEW are likely to grant him a micro-loan to help him achieve his goals. Other organisations have also been on hand, paying his hospital fees and helping the family make up for lost income.

Thang is determined to become an advocate.

He wants to put the case to other people against collecting scrap metal, no matter how much additional income it can provide.

“I will say, ‘Look what happened to me. You can never know how dangerous the munitions are’,” he explains. “This is the problem. It’s impossible to say whether the munitions are safe or still dangerous. When it comes to UXO we don’t know what will happen. We just don’t know.”

He adds: “Now, never again. Cach mot doi.”

STRUGGLING ON Following an accident that killed her husband, Hoang Thi Thuy received assistance from various sources. Like Thang, most of the hospital fees were paid. She was also granted a donation of VND10 million to buy a buffalo.

Determined to purchase a female animal so she could rear its offspring, she borrowed an extra VND5 million from a microfinancing programme. The buffalo has since given birth to a calf. In a year’s time Thuy will be able to sell the young adult animal for VND10 million. It’s a long-term investment that over time should pay off.

“Having the buffalo helps,” says Thuy. “It helps with ploughing the land. But the problem is that I have no one here to do the ploughing. It’s a man’s job, not for women.”

Despite the hardship of having to bring up four children by herself, she is determined to put her kids through school and for them to have a future. It’s a battle. There is no safety net here, no welfare state, no organised function that will come to the aid of single mothers or widows. But as she says repeatedly, it’s what her husband would want. Her determination is heroic.

Talking about her husband, Thuy’s eyes redden as she pulls out a framed image of him to show us how he looked as a young man. It was October 2010, the flooding season, and the two of them had gone out early to Ben Hac Hill to clear weeds around their acacia trees. Suddenly Tam’s scythe hit an unexploded ordnance. The flooding had brought the previously buried munition to the surface.

“When the accident happened I ran to the house of the head of the village,” she recalls. “My face was all covered in blood. He kept on telling me to wash the blood off my face. The only thing I was concerned about was getting my husband to hospital.”

She points to her face. “I still have fragments of the mortar in my nose and cheek.”

Two years later and despite her troubles, Thuy cites her youngest son as being the biggest difficulty. He was five when the accident happened, but now he’s starting to understand.

Says Thuy: “He keeps saying, ‘Why didn’t my father just lose his limbs?’”

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the

MUSHROOM CAPI

There have been many attempts to find sustainable solutions for people living in poverty. But few have

Inside the main building of the mushroomprocessing facility, agricultural engineers wear white lab coats and plastic gloves.

Through a sterilised glass container, they inject mushroom cultures into jars of brown rice.

Under the auspices of our guide and facility director, Ngo Thien Loi, we’re here to see the first part of the mushroom-growing process. Forming part of a programme that presently helps 150 families in Quang Tri Province climb out of poverty, this is the first stage of creating the mushroom blocks which, when ready, are sent to farmers to nurture, grow and cultivate into the final product. Like the institute that finances it, the non-profit, US-based Humpty Dumpty Institute (HDI), the programme is part of a leftfield attempt to make a difference.

Says HDI’s president, Ralph Cwerman: “One of our passions is to work on mine action, which among other things is assisting victims who have been injured or disabled by landmine explosion or accidents.”

For practical reasons this has led to them teaming up with Project RENEW. By

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providing training and micro-loans, the mushroom farming programme will one day equip 1,000 families with the tools and expertise to become professional mushroom growers.

“Our main goal here is to build a business,” explains Ralph, “a real, sustainable business. And also to clear a path for the actual victims [of the unexploded ordinance (UXO) and the war] to play a role in cleaning up the mess in Quang Tri.”

PHENOMENAL FUNGI

But why mushrooms? Of all the projects that could be found to help create a sustainable livelihood for those in desperate need, it seems the most unlikely. Certainly, it’s not the kind of concept that would be expounded upon in your typical brainstorming session. Still in its early days, the programme has seen unmitigated success.

Ralph’s response is remarkably succinct.

First, it’s not actually that difficult to grow mushrooms — “it doesn’t take up a whole lot of land”. It’s not labour-intensive, doesn’t

require backbreaking work in the fields, and the physically impaired, as long as they are fully mobile, are able to farm the mushrooms themselves. Once the mushrooms have been hung, you quite literally only need to water them.

While the main beneficiaries of the project are victims of UXO and landmine accidents, Project RENEW also helps single women who have households to look after but no male support. By taking up mushroom farming they are able to earn much needed extra income, while still having the time to look after their children and keep the daily household responsibilities intact.

Seasonally, the jigsaw also fits together.

The natural season for growing mushrooms comes right in the middle of the rice farming seasons. So, locals in the area have the time to focus on cultivating mushrooms without it affecting their ability to work the fields. And once harvested, Project RENEW buys back all the mushrooms the farmers can grow, paying slightly higher than the market price.

This way, the farmers can guarantee the sale, and through this system, repay their loans.

TAL OF VIETNAM

been as creative or successful as the Project RENEW mushroom farming initiative in Quang Tri.

Under the brand name NAMUS, the project is currently working on cultivating four different types of mushrooms: wood ear, shiitake, oyster and the expensive, medicinally-valuable linghzi.

THE MUSHROOM CAPITAL OF VIETNAM

Leaving the lab area, Loi leads us to the warehouse space out back. Here a group of women are working on building the growing blocks for the mushrooms. Made out of rubber tree sawdust and lime juice, once dried and injected with the spawn, they are kept for two months under inspection before being ready to be sent to the farmers for cultivation.

“At present we’re producing 20,000 mushroom blocks a month,” says Loi. “It’s not enough because it limits the number of farmers who can join the project. We want to be producing 20,000 blocks a day.”

According to Loi, the problem is the lack of space. The Japanese embassy in Hanoi recently donated the equipment to help them expand — one of many organisations

and national governments that are giving the scheme a helping hand. But until they can expand and build an additional processing facility, something that he hopes to start work on next year, they can’t increase production.

“The aim is that by 2015 we will be able to create enough mushroom spawn to enlarge this project to involve 1,000 families,” he adds.

“Ultimately our goal is to export the mushrooms,” continues Ralph. “We’re just not there in volume yet — last season we grew five tonnes of wood ear — and we’re still only selling the mushrooms locally. But we will soon be starting to sell them in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. We just need to increase our volume.”

To become a real force in the market, though, Project RENEW also needs NAMUS mushrooms to have a competitive edge.

Thus, the goal is for these mushrooms to have full organic certification.

“Right now there are three steps to get there,” says Ralph. “First you need Viet Gap certification, which allows us to sell in

Vietnam. Then there’s Global Gap, and after that there’s full organic certification.”

It’s a demanding process. No one else is cultivating organic mushrooms in Vietnam right now, though in some of the remote areas where farmers live, it’s not easy to explain and enforce the organic certification.

But the mushrooms also have a different kind of organic marketing tool — their story.

Any profits will be ploughed into a fund to remove landmines and UXO. “In my earliest speeches I would say that we wanted to turn Quang Tri into Vietnam’s mushroom capital,” recalls Ralph.

“Everyone laughed. Some people still laugh.

But much less than before. For the first time, the real mushroom growers in and around Vietnam — it’s a US$40 million business here — are starting to pay attention to what we’re doing.”

Loi puts it another way. “The more we can expand the capacity of this centre,” he says, “the more people can benefit.”

For more information on Mushrooms with a Mission, go to Project Renew’s website — www. landmines.org.vn.

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What was the idea behind the museum?

The idea originated from the fact that despite all the efforts to deal with the UXO, there was still no record of the real devastation that occurred here in Quang Tri during wartime, nor a record of the efforts to clean it all up.

Every day, more than three busloads of tourists were visiting the DMZ, but there was no accurate information to tell them what happened, unless they had a tour guide with an in-depth local knowledge.

So, coming here to the museum you get some first-hand information, a real insight into what happened, not just in Quang Tri, but in Vietnam.

What are your hopes for the visitor centre?

We hope that over time it will draw in lots of visitors, which in the long-term will bring in additional revenue to help sustain the province.

Where did you get your funding from?

The idea was put on the table and discussed by both the local government and NGOs many years ago, but no-one was able to fund the project. Fortunately a family foundation in California came on board — the Chino Cienega Foundation (CCF). They agreed to provide a grant of VND1.5 billion.

After this, we coordinated with the local government and they provided the building in which the centre is housed.

We used the funding to create the displays and get the artefacts that we have on show here. And with the funding we received we were able to run the centre for the first year of operation. Now we rely on donations — we need VND190 million a year to maintain, to pay our staff, and for upgrades.

Besides attracting tourists from overseas, who else has benefited from the centre?

We have taken advantage of the centre to provide young people in the province with mine risk education. Many are from ethnic minorities and live in the mountains. They are the most vulnerable.

By the time they leave, they know about safety, and most importantly they know about reporting UXO if they discover it so it can be neutralised.

What else do visitors learn from the centre?

We provide awareness about the history — the loss, the resilience and the recovery of the people. When people come here they start to understand why Vietnamese people place such a high value on peace.

Since we opened officially we have received over 3,000 visitors including 500 visitors from overseas. Most of the overseas visitors are war veterans or students from the US. Many of them are descendants of veterans. They want to know what happened to their fathers, their uncles, their family.

BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE MUSEUM Opened in August, the Mine Action Visitor Centre in Dong Ha is one of the bestappointed museums in Vietnam, although it took a number of years to get off the ground. We speak to Ngo Xuan Hien, the communications and development manager.

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There is a clear bias in the museum towards Project RENEW. They run the project and are now responsible for future funding. But shouldn’t the centre include more information on other NGOs and charities working in the area?

The original idea was to showcase the efforts of all the mine accident organisations operating in the province.

This includes Peace Trees, SODI, CPI, MAG and more. The problem is we have a lack of materials and photos from the other organisations. The other problem is that Project RENEW provides the funding, pays the salaries and runs the centre.

We asked for contributions. But we’ve received very little.

The displays are open for modification and we hope [the other organisations] are willing to share. That’s the point of this centre.

If the world doesn’t know about it, what is the point?

Additional donors to the Mine Action Visitor Centre include the government of Quang Tri Province, Norwegian People's Aid (NPA) and Tromsoe Mine Victim Resource Center (TMC).

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INFORMATION To explore Quang Tri, use Dong Ha as a base and avoid the tours from Hue. These are impersonal and require you to spend most of your time staring at the confines of a tour bus. A number of travel agencies in Dong Ha, including DMZ Tours (www.dmztours.net) can arrange trips to sites such as Khe Sanh, Vinh Moc, Ben Hai River and La Vang Church. Make sure you also put some time aside to visit the Mine Action Visitor Centre (Kids First Village, Ly Thuong Kiet, Dong Ha. Tel: 0533 567338).

ACCOMMODATION Huu Nghi Hotel 68 Tran Hung Dao, Dong Ha Tel: 0533 852361 www.huunghihotel.com.vn For price versus quality, probably the best option in town.

Rooms start at around VND380,000 a night.

Saigon Dong Ha Hotel 1 Bui Thi Xuan, Dong Ha Tel: 0533 577888 www.saigondongha.com A well-appointed four-star property but with a provincial feel.

Part of the Saigon Tourist group.

EATING AND DRINKING Phi Thuyen On the River, Ba Trieu, Dong Ha Set on a boat on the Mieu Giang River, a great venue for sunset eating and drinking.

Com Am Phu 56 Phan Chu Trinh, Dong Ha Sells Hue-style rice at VND30,000 or VND40,000 a plate. The best rice restaurant in town.

Tam Cafe 83 Tran Hung Dao, Dong Ha Sat opposite Huu Nghi Hotel, the proceeds of this cafe go to helping the deaf.

KHE SANH Sat on a mountain plateau, this former army base and now museum is the highlight of any trip to Quang Tri.

Approaching Khe Sanh, the scenery immediately demands ones’ attention. Central Vietnam’s inland areas can often be hit with a disproportionate amount of miss — in some areas such as Phu Yen the landscape has been devastated, dams have been constructed, and the once lush jungle has been hacked and burnt leaving only desolate clumps of greenery. But here in Quang Tri it appears untouched. Even the river that undulates roughly along the same path as the highway is clear, devoid of litter and far from the touch of the human hand.

We’re on our way to Ta Con airstrip, the remains of the altitude army base formerly occupied by the Americans. And as we pass the strangely titled Nha Trang Restaurant — what is a restaurant from Nha Trang doing in the mountains of Quang Tri? — I start asking about Ta Con. “Is any of the tarmac still there?”

“It was all scavenged,” comes the answer. Everything that has any usage here is recycled.

“So, only dirt, right?”

“Only dirt.”

I'm left feeling a bit apprehensive, echoes in my head of a previous trip a few years before to Hamburger Hill. A place of huge historical importance, the site of one of the bloodiest battles of the American War, there was very little from the past remaining. The airstrip and base had long since been dismantled, overgrown trenches the only surviving sign of what had taken place there. I wondered if the same would be true here in Quang Tri.

THE STRUGGLE

But as we arrive in the plateau that houses Ta Con I realise that although the physical version of the airstrip may have long since disappeared, from a touring perspective, this is the highlight of my trip to Quang Tri. Highlight in the sense that few travellers ever make it so far inland and also that it is the first accurate representation of what transpired almost 50 years ago.

An epitaph to the struggles of Vietnam to gain independence, the physical army base has long since disappeared. In its place is a small, 1980s-style museum on stilts and a huge open space displaying the trophies of victory — bomber planes, tanks, land vehicles and more. A typical wartime trench has been rebuilt, sandbags stacked high upon its walls, and for the hour or so that I wander around the former airstrip, I am tailed by two souvenir sellers. It’s the only frustration of the visit, although I eventually give in and buy some empty bullet casings and a badge from 1968.

As we leave Ta Con and make our way back to Nha Trang restaurant for lunch, the talking resumes. At the airbase, I felt my hair standing on end. For large parts of the trip all was silent. Yet for our hosts, the three NGO workers, this is no more than a remnant of the past. It’s not so interesting any more.

Their struggle is now, today, in their attempts to rebuild their home. It is there that their passion and dedication lie.

We can only hope that they succeed.

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DESTINATION

The Lion’s Roar Douglas Pyper peers behind the Las Vegas style MGM Corp makeover that represents the new Singapore, to see if the Lion City still has any cultural teeth.

Photos provided by the Singapore Tourism Board

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f Singapore was a man, he’d walk on water. What was once waves on the Singapore Straight just 10 years ago is now the shiny new face that Singapore likes to show to the world. A combination of government spending and foreign investment has sat world-class architecture, tourism spots and cultural centres on land reclaimed from the sea.

At the outdoor stage of The Esplanade Theatre, a skyscraper skyline sets the scene as an atmospheric soundtrack to dancing fountains wafts across Singapore’s answer to the Sydney Opera House. The Esplanade’s domed design is meant to represent microphones, but is more often likened to durians by the locals. Its acoustic structure however, is no joke. Sonically it is considered one of the top five concert venues in the world, and with all the other accoutrements of a modern multi-disciplinary arts venue in place, The Esplanade promises to satisfy all of Singapore’s cultural desires.

As this example suggests, at the high end of arts venues, Singapore isn’t short of options. International bands from America or the UK can play at The Esplanade, Star Vista or a host of outdoor venues; a jetsetting DJ could play at a large scale club like Zouk, while the Cirque du Soleil would feel right at home in the Festive Grand Theatre at Resorts World Sentosa.

These are the places you go to perform once you’ve made it. Surrounded by such wealth, a journalist on a Singapore Tourism Board junket might be wondering ’how did I get here?’, yet an aspiring Singaporean artist is more likely to be asking ’how do I get here?’

Turn Left for Classical Concert, Turn Right for Christmas Comedy One of the Singapore’s best exports of recent years has been Syndicate. A collective of DJs and VJs, the group started organising underground events for the same reason everybody else does; bored with the scene, they decided to make their own. In the back of a taxi on the way to see a friend perform at a Jay-Z tribute night, Safua Johari —

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Captions: (From left to right) Incanto at Resorts WorldTM Sentosa; ZoukOut electronic music festival; performances by Singaporean artists at Substation; a dancer in Incanto

“While the Singapore art scene doesn’t screw with the police, or rage against the machine, it can still kick out the jams” known by his DJ moniker Max Lane — is explaining how the group went from organising their own parties around town, to playing festivals in Europe and later performing alongside their heroes from the Brainfeeder collective in LA. Far from having a master plan, the group “didn’t actually have much expectation” when they started out says Safua. By concentrating on “putting [our] sets together, producing and playing music that we wanted to hear; putting up visuals that we wanted to see”, the group soon caught the attention of both the party and the arty crowds around the city.

Surprisingly, Singapore actually has quite a few moderate-sized venues willing to support young local artists. Syndicate received most of their support from Home Club, a decent-sized space on the river, while live bands are more likely to find a home on the top floor of BluJaz Cafe in the Arab Quarter of the city. Yet for all the opportunity, Safua is quick to note that it’s not easy.

“No-one gives you the breaks, you’ve got to make it for yourself,” he says. And while there is a generous smattering of small and medium venues for artists to play, there is

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of course the natural limitation of life on an island. “After a certain time it becomes a challenge to yourself,” he continues.

“In a certain space there are only certain permutations that you can work with. So now we are trying to surprise ourselves, too.”

Subculture In an effort to continue to evolve and stay fresh, Syndicate have taken on a more experimental aspect than they started out with in 2010. This requires a different kind of venue and audience, both of which Syndicate found in Substation. Housed in a beautiful old electricity substation, it has been the city’s leading independent arts venue for over 20 years. One of the venue’s founding principles is now spray painted on the building’s walls: ‘The Substation should be anything anyone wants it to be, open and flexible enough to do things his or her own way.’ By renting out their theatres, classrooms, exhibition spaces and live music areas to creative Singaporeans, the organisation has probably done more than any other to foster multi-disciplinary arts in Singapore.

Like most arts organisations in

Singapore, the Substation receives generous financial support from the government.

Yet that support comes at a price. General Manager Emily Hoe explains how the organisation has “had our fair share of trouble that comes from trying to push the boundaries. Art has always been the medium whereby you’re trying to ask uncomfortable questions.”

One such question that baffled many was a performance art show in which a man cut his pubic hair while facing a wall in a disused shopping mall. The fallout left two artists banned from performing in public, funding was slashed and all future performances had to be officially sanctioned. While the funding has returned to previous levels, licences still have to be applied for. In the case of live music, that means handing over the details of all performers along with submitting lyrics for approval; a process which takes from six to eight weeks. Understandably, ‘spontaneous’ isn’t an adjective often applied to Singaporean arts.

When Emily is talking about the National Arts Council (NAC), the group who provide most of the arts funding, it’s

hard not to start to see them as a sort of paternal figure. They provide much needed finance for independent arts, yet they also reprimand on occasions when art is deemed to have gone too far. Furthermore, they sometimes take a protective role, offering advanced warning and possible solutions when such an admonishing may be coming from another authority figure. Singapore is awash with arts policies, but perhaps not all have been so encouraging to the independent arts.

While Emily acknowledges that overall “the developmental policies have been hugely helpful for us,” particularly in terms of funding, she reserves the caveat that the price of this funding is often high.

Regulatory policies such as licensing stipulate “what we can and can’t do, and the conditions which come with the space.”

Why Innovate in Utopia?

Heavy handed regulation aside, Singapore’s art infrastructure and funding is, dare I say, utopian. With at least 10 art and design universities, venues, performance spaces and galleries of all shapes and sizes, and a plethora of capital, that would certainly seem to be the case.

Yet as Arthur Bloch, the man behind Murphy’s Law, so eloquently observed, “every solution breeds new problems.”

Singapore’s problems lie just under the

surface. What looks from the outside like a diverse, refined and dynamic art scene may not stand up to closer inspection. Joyce Toh, the Senior Curator of the Singapore Art Museum claims that Singaporean artists may even be over-trained. “They’re very knowledgeable about working in art-world systems,” she observes, “so they are able to make and produce art for those kinds of networks and structures,” with the result that their work “is missing that punch-to-the-gut kind of feel.”

In the world of music, the situation is similar. Timothy Chia, head of marketing and events at Singapore’s largest electronic music festival ZoukOut claims the scene is “not as dynamic as the west” because “in a sense, we are a bit more controlled, a bit more structured.”

But that’s a little unfair. For the criticisms above, the fertility of Singapore’s arts community is undoubtedly among the highest in the region. From running only a smattering of events at weekends during the 1990s, a casual glance at The Straits Times today sees the city awash with cultural events both foreign and homegrown. Innovative artists like Syndicate and independent promoters like Substation are proof that while the Singapore art scene doesn’t screw with the police, or rage against the machine, it can still kick out the jams.

Entertainment in the Lion City Planning a trip to Singapore? To find out what’s going on in the island state, both mainstream and underground, check out the following websites: The Substation Arts Centre www.substation.org Zouk Club www.zoukout.com Syndicate www.syndicate.sg Singapore Art Museum www.singaporeartmuseum.sg Home Club www.homeclub.com.sg BluJaz Cafe www.blujaz.net The Esplanade www.esplanade.com Your Singapore www.yoursingapore.com Time Out Singapore www.timeoutsingapore.com

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DESTINATION

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In town for a few days and don’t know what to chow on?

Samantha Lee susses out the best local eats and where to find them. Photos by Joey Lee

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sk any Singaporean, and he’ll bemoan the rising costs of living, the surge of mega-malls, the skyrocketing housing prices, the overcrowding, and even (especially) the heat. But mention one thing — food — and that grimace will morph into an earnest, forthcoming grin and a flurry of suggestions.

No other city invests so much of its soul and identity into its cuisine, which, like the city itself, is a kaleidoscopic mish mash of cultures, traditions and flavours.

Since its beginnings as a British port in the early 1800s, the city has welcomed countless visitors to its shores. Malaysian, Indian, Chinese and European immigrants brought with them cures for homesickness, not least of which were their palates and recipes.

Today, the enduring legacy of Singapore’s past can be seen in the profusion of dishes that fill local hawker centres and eateries.

True, the city prides itself on an abundance of world-class restaurants to rival New York’s or London’s. But the beating heart and soul of Singapore can still be found in a good, cheap bowl of steaming laksa or a plate of chicken rice. Food that — like the earnest, forthcoming grin — reveals most clearly what Singapore truly is.

1) Hainanese Chicken Rice A slapdash of local touches has made chicken rice, which originates from China’s Hainan province, one of Singapore’s unofficial national dishes. It is comprised of an unalterable Holy Trinity of components.

Chicken, which is poached, sliced and drizzled liberally with sesame oil. Oily, fragrant rice steamed with chicken stock,

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ginger, garlic and pandan leaf. And a transcendent garlicky, limey chilli sauce.

There are as many ways to enjoy this dish as there are stalls purveying it. Some add dark soy sauce to the chilli for a tinge of sweetness, or ginger paste for a kick of spice. Drizzling the soy sauce over the oily, fragrant rice is not uncommon. Some stalls offer roasted or soy sauce chicken instead of the usual poached variety. Go ahead and explore — the chicken rice world is your oyster.

Boon Tong Kee is a local chicken rice institution.

The branch at 399 / 401 / 403 Balestier Road opens daily till late. Lee Fun Nam Kee Chicken Rice at 94 Lorong 4 Toa Payoh serves legendary soya sauce chicken as well as the traditional variety.

2) Chilli Crab The amount of sucking, cracking, chomping, slurping and finger-licking involved in eating this dish is enough to make your grandmother blush, if she wasn’t already tucking into the crab herself. Another of Singapore’s national gems, chilli crab consists of a fresh crab (usually of the humongous Sri Lankan variety) swathed in a thick, eggy, spicy-sweet chilli sauce. There is no use for cutlery here; take full advantage of your opposable thumbs to dig out morsels of the fresh, sweet meat from every nook and crevice of the crustacean. An order of mantou, a sweetish fried bun, usually accompanies the dish and is best used to sop up every last drop of sauce.

No Signboard Seafood at Block 1202 East Coast Parkway, #01-02, East Coast Seafood Centre

serves some of the best chilli crab in town. So does Jumbo Seafood Restaurant, located at Block 1206 East Coast Parkway, #01-07, East Coast Seafood Centre.

3) Carrot Cake

One might be forgiven in expressing surprise that there isn’t a shred of carrot in this dish. The ‘carrot’ here refers to the main ingredient, white radish (also known as daikon or white carrot), which is grated and steamed with rice flour to result in a ‘cake’. This is then fried with liberal amounts of egg, preserved radish, soy sauce, garlic and spring onions. Cholesterol-laden though this is, Singaporeans are not deterred from enjoying carrot cake at any time of the day. Yes, even for breakfast. Two equally popular versions exist; ‘black’ means that dark soy sauce is added for a sweeter taste, while ‘white’ refers to the usual, more savoury type.

This dish can be found in most hawker centres.

For some of the best, go to Ah Heng Carrot Cake at #01-28 Newton Circus Food Centre, 500 Clemenceau Ave North. Or try Miow Sin Carrot Cake at #01-04, Lavender Food Square, 380 Jalan Besar.

4) Laksa This culinary treasure was introduced by the Peranakan (Straits-born Chinese) diaspora in Singapore. Thick rice vermicelli comes drenched in a spicy, coconut milkbased broth, redolent of the flavour of dried ground shrimp. The dish comes charged up with taupok (a local version

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of dried tofu), cockles, a dollop of fiery sambal and a liberal garnishing of laksa leaves (also known as daun kesom), which imparts its distinctive herbal sharpness to the soup. With the amount of slurping and splattering involved, white shirts are not recommended for a laksa binge. However, some joints offer noodles already cut into shorter lengths, easily scooped up with a spoon — a godsend for those who haven’t quite perfected the art of chopsticks.

Relinquish chopsticks at these popular ‘shortstrand’ laksa joints: 328 Katong Laksa at 53 East Coast Road, and Sungei Road Laksa at #01-100 Jin Shui Kopitiam, 27 Jalan Berseh.

5) Kaya Toast and Kopi Forget chi-chi brunches in ritzy locales. For an unbeatable and unbeatably economical start to the day, one can’t go wrong with the simple but magical duo of kaya toast and coffee (more affectionately known as kopi). Thin slices of bread are toasted to a delicate crisp and spread generously with slabs of butter and kaya, an unctuous, pandan-scented coconut and egg jam.

Wash it down with a cup of thick, dark kopi, made using coffee beans roasted in butter and sugar for that aromatic, caramelised flavour. Still peckish? Include a side order of half-boiled eggs, seasoned with pepper and dark soy sauce, for a complete breakfast.

The undisputed granddaddy of kopi joints is Ya Kun Kaya Toast (est. 1944), which has numerous branches in the city. The one at 18 China Street is particularly atmospheric.

6) Bak Kut Teh (Pork Rib Soup) Bak kut teh (which literally translates as ‘pork rib tea’) is a rather polarising subject.

In Singapore the light, peppery Teochewstyle broth is slightly more popular, though many still swear by the darker, herbier Hokkien-style version. No matter the allegiance, the underlying idea remains — pork ribs are boiled for hours in a broth resplendent with garlic, onions, pepper, and a secret smattering of herbs and spices.

The resulting ribs are intensely flavourful

A Local Fix Not able to get to Singapore? A few establishments in Vietnam do great versions of Singaporean and Peranakan cuisine.

In Ho Chi Minh City there’s Lion City. With a number of franchises around town, the original is still arguably the best. Check them out at 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1. Also try the excellent, recently opened Oriental Garden (23 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2).

Lion City is also in Hanoi (92 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem). But for the real deal head to Rasa Singapura (63 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh). This is tasty, homecooked, Peranakan-style fare served up by a Singaporean-Vietnamese couple.

Their signature dish, nasi lemak, is to die for.

Another standout restaurant in Hanoi is Jade Restaurant (71 Kim Ma, inside Nha Hat Cheo, Ba Dinh). The Singapore hot chilli crab is sensational.

and fall-off-the-bone soft, best dipped in the accompanying chilli-infused dark soy sauce. Though the soup is usually served with steamed white rice, many opt to add you tiao (fried crullers), which are dunked in the soup before being eaten.

A good Hokkien-style version can be found at Leong Kee (Klang) Bak Kut Teh at 321 Beach Road. For the peppery Teochew broth, go to Song Fa Bak Kut Teh at 11 New Bridge Road or Old Tiong Bahru Bak Kut Teh at 58 Seng Poh Road.

7) Bak Chor Mee (Minced Pork Noodles) Originating from Singapore’s Teochew forefathers, this humble dish has reached unprecedented levels of local ubiquity.

It’s the perfect quick meal — fresh egg noodles are tossed with vinegar, chilli and oil then topped with a mound of minced pork. Slices of stewed black mushrooms, which impart a smoky umami kick, crumbs of sinful fried lard, and pungent slivers of crispy dried sole fish complete the dish.

(One can opt for no lard, but where’s the fun in that?) Each order comes with a bowl of soup on the side; you know it’s good when the broth is cloudy with the residue of minced meat.

There are virtually no bad bak chor mee stalls in Singapore, but here are some of the best: Joo Heng Mushroom Minced Pork Noodle at #01-86 Ang Mo Kio Market And Food Centre, 628 Ang Mo Kio Avenue 4, Street 61; and Seng Kee Mushroom Minced Pork Noodles at 316 Changi Road.

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OUT & ABOUT

Food for Tet The Tet holiday, and the story of how Austin Nguyen gets so fat in a week. Photos by Francis

Banh Chung (Square Rice Cake) People usually say banh chung is the soul of Tet — which is kind of true. I know Tet is coming when my mother starts to make space in the kitchen to stack these cakes up.

Banh chung is a savory concoction consisting of glutinous rice, yellow mung beans and pork, bundled together with banana leaves into a square shape. Why a square? An old legend about banh chung claims that its shape

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n Asian countries, Tet (Vietnamese New Year) is similar to the concept of Christmas or Thanksgiving in the west. Family members have a few days off for the holiday, time to bond, to catch up on what they’ve been missing throughout the year. And what better way to do so than by gathering around a hot stove making

some banh chung, having a cold beer and talking about New Year’s resolutions? Food just brings people together. Who can say no to a traditional serving of claypot pork or thit kho tau?

These four following dishes are the taste of the holiday — when you see these specialties together on the table you’ll know spring has visited you.

Thit Dong (Frozen Jelly Pork Belly) represents the earth. It’s dressed in banana leaves to make it green, a wish for new young life on this planet.

There are many versions of banh chung. Banh tet is a southern version with a different shape — longer and thinner, with fewer mung beans and less meat, or sometimes no meat at all.

People believe that by reducing the amount of meat in it, they can store it longer than usual.

Like banh chung, banh tet is a dish that can be used as the rice accompaniment for daily meals, and it goes well with so many types of dishes made for Tet. The tradition of making banh chung goes past the dish itself — it is an opportunity for family members to gather around the cooking pot, tell stories about their lives and all together wish for a better new year.

This is a very rare treat because of the complexity of the dish. There are so many ingredients to be prepared and their proportions must be exact. If they are not, the dish will not set or will become thick and hard to eat.

Originally from northern Vietnam, this offering is made in the cold of winter to save

meat for the spring. The word dong does not only mean ‘frozen’ but also winter. With just a few simple ingredients, it creates an impressive taste. A salty jelly exterior with ear mushrooms, carrots shaped into flowers and sliced pork belly hides pig ears inside.

Along with pickles, shallots and cabbage this dish will definitely satisfy your inner

gourmet. Thit dong melts on your tongue, and a hint of garlic warms up the chilly wintertime.

Even though the process of making thit dong must be precise, it’s a flexible dish to serve.

You can use it as an appetizer like a type of cha (Vietnamese sausage). It also goes great with rice as a main. Add some pickles — yum!

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“This dish is usually cooked for Tet, where its ‘bitter’ name is taken as a reminder of the poor living conditions experienced in the past. It reminds us of a basic life lesson — at first nothing is easy, and sometimes it’s hard”

Canh Kho Qua (Bitter Melon Soup) Bitter melon (kho qua), like durian, is one of those things you either love or hate, nothing in between. Canh kho qua is a pretty common soup eaten at all times of the year, but it also appears on all the menus for the New Year.

Growing up, I used to dislike it, but over the years I’ve come to love it. Bitter melon is still as bitter as I remember as a child, but that’s

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Thit Kho Tau (Caramelised Pork Belly) only at first. After the initial sensation, the sweet and fresh aftertaste is truly amazing.

The filling includes shredded ear mushrooms, glass noodles, ground pork, salt, pepper and seasoning. Mix them up, add some fish sauce, then stuff them into the bitter melon. It takes about 20 minutes for everything to cook.

This dish is usually cooked for Tet, where its ‘bitter’ name is taken as a reminder of the poor living conditions experienced in the past. It reminds us of a basic life lesson — at first nothing is easy, and sometimes it’s hard.

But after everything, at the end of every bitter melon there will be a delicious, fish sauce-glazed reward.

One of the classic Tet foods, every family has to have some. Having a pot full of thit kho tau means your family is well-fed, and generous enough to share the overflow with guests.

The flavour combination of pork belly braised in coconut juice, garlic, shallots, fish sauce and pepper melts in your mouth.

That bacon taste created by slow-cooking pork belly fat brings you to heaven. You

end up with a surprisingly low-fat dish that will still blow your mind.

The sauce is sweet, but not overwhelmingly so. There’s a balance between salt from the fish sauce and sweetness from the caramelisation, which works perfectly to create a very aromatic, rich sauce.

Using a clay pot you can make a spinoff version, for a smaller family. Clay pots are porous and absorb everything. Soaking the

pot in water before cooking releases steam when heat is applied, which helps to cook the food.

I actually never get enough of thit kho tau.

Even if every single relative has made it, every neighbour we visit has it — I have to try each one, even if they’re not so different from one another. Why? Because I taste the effort they all put in, and it’s enough to make my New Year perfect.

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SOUND & VISION

Signal to Noize An all-girl Vietnamese rock band with a Turkish male guitarist, White Noize is an outfit that is really kicking out the jams. Words by Ed Weinberg. Photos by Francis

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e’re at Acoustic Bar and it’s Saturday night. Emotion talks reads the subscript on the stage backdrop, and the audience is buzzing — so much so that they cheer the opening bars of Nelly’s Just a Dream over the PA. Feedback cuts the chorus, and enthusiastic fans at the back bob their heads in confused rhythm until Cu "Owl" Nguyen cuts the beat definitively, the background fades, and White Noize hits them.

One fan raises both peace signs, another sings a refrain of “Yea-uh-HEY!” in the thrumming pit of the song’s breakdown.

With or Without You fills the cascading bass line with an emotional catchphrase, and as Owl hits the lyric “And you give”, it sticks in her throat, hitting over and over. The background howling picks up. Even the hundred or so still seated throw pointer fingers in the air, slap their thighs in rhythm.

Owl takes the mic and says something endearing to her audience in Vietnamese.

She shakes out her spiraling, peacockshaded pompadour, sweat running down her neck, over raised veins.

“Usually I can’t see,” Owl says of her performances. “The sweat gets in my eyes.”

How about glasses, a handkerchief? “No,” Owl replies with a wry smile, “I don’t wear a lot on stage.”

right now. But [Vietnamese rock fans] don’t really listen to our style of rock music.”

This is something that the girls — Owl, drummer Tran Uyen Thao, bassist Tam Nguyen — and their male guitarist, Gokhan Dedebal have been trying to reverse. This scion of all-girl forebears Lazee Dolls and Passion — brand-complicated by the addition of Gokhan, who was a fan of Owl’s in her solo days — have been trying to break through with a mix of covers, original songs, and lots and lots of energy. Through crossbooking with musicians as diverse as Curtis King — who Thao drums for as well — and whoever was on the Hennessy tour they started their careers on in 2010, and regular gigging at places like RFC Bar and Acoustic, they have cultivated a loyal following.

“When you put White Noize in the big market of Vietnamese music we’re different, because most of them play pop music. Rock is this small,” Owl says, pinching her fingers close together.

“Vietnamese tradition somehow is against rock music,” she continues, trying to make sense of the occasionally unreceptive demographic. “When fans come to a show, they want to dance, they want to shout, they want to yell... but they care so much about the others.” Owl screws up her eyes in determination. “So we have to rock harder.”

We Have to Rock Harder

Groupies

There are 300 people in Acoustic tonight, easy. It’s packed, and for good reason — there aren’t many places in town to see this type of music.

“Right now, White Noize is trying to build up a rock community,” Owl tells me. “There is a small society of rock bands in Vietnam

As the band gets into Someone Like You, the crowd picks it up on the first bars. Some superfans form a wall of echo chorus, hitting the same notes, the same pitch. The audience as a whole yells back the lines so loudly that Owl struggles to lead them.

Before the next round of chorus, she asks,

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“Ready?”

We go through a blistering three minutes of riot grrrl rendition, then the chords slowly trail off. Some cheer, some wait for more. A corner of the room starts it — “Never thought I’d find someone like you,” a cappella. It’s eerie. Owl says, “Ok, one more time.”

At the start of our interview, I asked the band what their groupies are like. Thao pointed at the girl beside her: “Like this.”

I hadn’t gotten to asking everyone’s roles, and was surprised. “I was wondering why you weren’t talking.”

She smiled and said, “Sorry.”

She’s right behind me at the show, bouncing around and yelling lyrics and really feeling it. She breaks during song intervals, but hardly, clapping her hands and steeling herself for the next round like a basketball player just about to run back on defense. She’s part of it.

“Our fans are dancing and yelling and crazy,” Owl says. “I say, if you want to know more about bands, look at their fans.”

And this crowd is feeling it, responding to Gokhan’s fist pump psych-ups while Owl catches her breath, toe-tapping Thao and Tam’s deliberately cool, driving rhythms, sticking camera phones in Owl’s direction as her knees touch the floor by the end of some songs, as cords snake around her legs while she paces the stage like something more threatening than her namesake.

My Humps comes on the PA abruptly as the band finishes their last song, instruments still in hand. They bust a little move, a gun-hand twitch of guitars, vocal chords. Everyone flinches. They keep the crowd’s attention another moment before turning away and folding up their gear.

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SOUND & VISION

PechaKucha The talk of the town, the introduction of PechaKucha to the city has Saigonese ears buzzing.

Words by Ed Weinberg. Photos by Nick Ross 62 | Word January 2013

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ike so many things, it started in Tokyo. PechaKucha, the onomatopoeic Japanese phrase for the sound of chit-chat, became associated with a lightning speed, 20-slides-20-seconds-each presentation concept in 2003, when Tokyo-based architects Astrid Klein and Mark Dytham first employed it as a means of shortening long-winded PowerPoints. From there it’s travelled to 585 other cities worldwide, the numbers increasing by the day.

On Dec. 4, VinGallery (4 Le Van Mien, Q2) hosted the first Ho Chi Minh City edition. 50 people came, drank wine, sat on chairs or on the floor, and watched seven presenters blow through six minutes and 40 seconds of rough-hewn inspiration.

Their brains were tickled by the doors of Sapa, a picture of a girl pushing people down the sand dunes in Mui Ne, reflections on loneliness, bamboo racing bikes, the turn of phrase ‘tickled pink’, and even the Thai words for ‘not spicy’.

20 seconds provides a nice window for these moments, these thoughts and little jokes. The event as a whole takes on a PechaKucha presentation’s best qualities — a mixture of tones, personal, humorous, creative — a wash of colours playing behind it all. One presentation begins just as the last ends in a feverish dream of exploration that comes off like the best, most intimate ice-breaking session ever.

Stacia Maiorani, the organiser, is the first to present. The first slide is about her home — she points out her brother in the picture.

She goes on to talk about her work as a librarian and her blogging pursuits, as well as her first Vietnamese cockroach. She takes a deep breath on the slide titled 'Slide #10… halfway break', saying, “Whew, halfway.

Thought I might need that.”

Later, she explains the idea behind the event. “From what I understand of Ho Chi Minh City, I feel this is the perfect time to bring PechaKucha here. A lot of creativity is going on, there are so many pieces to the [place].”

This, claim the founders, is the difference between PechaKucha and TEDTalks, another worldwide, digital-friendly presentation format. From the FAQ: “TED is top down, PechaKucha is bottom up!

Deanne the hooper, Astrid’s daughter, or Mark’s mum could not present at TED, but they had awesome stories to share at PechaKucha Nights.” For a city like this, without a significant Swedish community or bamboo-intensive sustainable architecture scene, an individual, personal perspective is the best way to learn about these things.

Vikings, Bond Girls and Tolerance Katarina Wallin decided to keep it simple.

She wanted to “go with something I knew a lot about and other people generally don't know so much about to keep it as easy for me as possible. So it was down to shoes or Sweden.”

She picks Sweden, and the audience learns that Sweden invented the zipper and has given passports to more Bond girls than any other nation. The Vikings were from there. Swedes also use the same pronoun for male and female.

Katarina was nervous before her presentation, she hadn’t anticipated such a large turnout. “My hands started to sweat when we ran out of stools, people were sitting on the stairs, men in suits — real grown ups — walked in.”

But as she gets into it, with her flippant take on something she cares about deeply, it gets through to people in a way that a Wikipedia page might not.

Afterwards, Katarina “noticed one of the suit men looked interested and my friends amused. And then it was over. It was a great feeling afterwards.”

The Bamboo Master James Wolf starts with a slide on 1969, his birth year. “Muscle cars, Woodstock, the Summer of Love.”

James is the self-designated ‘Bamboo Master’, a title that refers to his 20-year-long work with the grass, the longevity of which still fascinates him. It has more tensile strength than steel, and he’s used it to build racing bicycles and the only bamboo houses in the US that are up to code.

He’s coming off two professional presentations, one of which saw him spend two days lecturing bamboo artisans in Hanoi. “I covered the same materials [as in his PechaKucha] in a one-hour talk, which was also really interesting. You can tell more stories.” At his two-day, he got off-topic for an hour, telling his audience about the uncommon possibilities there are for the use of bamboo and rattan, like for coffins.

‘There’s not only baskets’ was his point, which he stuck to for this.

His presentation is also a success, and he leaves the stage to a nice round of applause.

“PechaKucha, because it’s so fast, 20 seconds per slide, covers a lot of topics,” says James. “On other presentations maybe there are six or ten things I want to say about this or that, or the way bamboo grows. Of the five or six you want to say, you just have to figure out, what are the three I’m not going to give away.”

For more information go to www.pecha-kucha. org/night/ho-chi-minh-city.

January 2013 Word | 63

TIPS FOR DOING STAND-UP Speak to professional comedians and they will tell you that there are no universal tips and tricks to become a great stand-up. Some comics need to speak faster, others need to slow down, the advice often given to young comedians is to cut out unnecessary verbiage. The needs of one comedian vary from case to case.

So, what follows are purely guidelines. There is no key, no wonderful all-encompassing formula.

But for anyone interested in taking the plunge, we hope they help!

SOUND & VISION

Comedy in the

City

1) Timing. Making people laugh is all about the timing. Get it right. Work on it. Practice. Take full advantage of the dramatic pause.

2) Get in character. On stage you are an actor, playing a role. You need to stay in that role and take your own self out of your act.

3) Delivery. A comedian can have great material, but without the delivery to match they will fail. Practice in front of the mirror. Record yourself.

Work on every detail.

The last 12 months has seen the birth of two regular comedy nights, one homegrown, the other bringing in the best talent from overseas.

Here’s the lowdown on the Saigon scene. Words

by Nick Ross. Photo by Charles Barnes

4) Props. Anything from guitars to costumes, plastic batons and even a bottle of beer. A good prop used well can add something to your performance.

5) Voice. Keep your enunciation clear.

Use tone, pitch and volume levels to aid your act. The microphone is a prop that can be used to great effect.

Dan Murray at McSorley's

Dan Murray Stand-Up Saigon James Trillion and myself kick-started StandUp Saigon because we had no other choice.

When I moved to Vietnam, I discovered there was no real scene to speak of. So James and I had to start our own.

I had already been on stage once or twice in Ireland and a few times when I lived in South Korea, and realised I loved it, it was a real buzz. It must be due to some undiagnosed mental disorder of mine. Irish comedians are popular all over the world, though, so maybe it's in the genes. Irish people joke about everything, all the time. As for the passion, it comes from years of telling jokes to avoid awkward silences. I don't know how else to communicate any more.

64 | Word January 2013

My material comes from almost anywhere: reading the news, listening to people spout ill-informed rubbish with absolute conviction, watching people interact, analysing my own mistakes. We do two nights a month at different venues — McSorley’s and The Voice Lounge. District 3 and District 2 are pretty far apart, so there isn't much crossover. Still, ten new minutes a month can be quite difficult.

We do sometimes get criticised for the content of our sets. It’s all a matter of taste. I personally find the Irish band U2 distasteful but I wouldn't go to one of their gigs and heckle them. It's a waste of time. If you don't like something leave or shut the hell up.

The great thing about our comedy nights is that it is a stand-up open mic, where all newcomers can give it a go. Ultimately we want people to have a nice night out where they can meet other people who like comedy

Glenn Wool plays Hard Rock and have a good laugh.

For more information on the nights organised by Dan and James, go to their Facebook page: StandUp Saigon. All entrance fee proceeds go to charity.

Andre Chalson Comedy Club Asia / Saigon Comedy Nights The Comedy Club Singapore, which is part of The Comedy Club Asia, was founded in October 2007 by Singapore-based Australian stand-up, Jonathan Atherton, and Singaporean comedy fan and financial wizard Dr. Heazry Salim. Its aim is to foster and nurture local comedy talent by establishing an open mic scene in Singapore and acting as mentors to aspiring comedians. Since its inception, links with promoters in Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City have gradually been established,

with monthly or bi-monthly tours sending some top circuit comedians to gigs across the region.

The club made its Saigon debut due to a chance encounter in Phnom Penh in mid-2011. Having owned and run a bar in Singapore and having hosted several successful comedy nights, I intended to use my connections to bring quality comedy to Phnom Penh. An acquaintance, Dan Riley, a Phnom Penh resident since 2004, was the missing link I needed to make my dream a reality.

Having scouted out a venue — Pontoon — with Jonathan, the first show ran in December 2011 under the banner Comedy Club Cambodia, which was a brilliant success. It was from this show, we got talking to Anthony Galloway and that gave us the contact that enabled us to set up the

6) Know your audience. Be prepared to adjust your set to the people in front of you.

7) Heckling. No-one likes hecklers.

But a good response to a heckle can help your act and get you in touch with the audience. Prepare responses in advance.

first show in Saigon at Hard Rock Café in September. Our shows so far in the city have seen Jonathan, Ro Campbell, Glenn Wool and Hung Le play alongside regional acts such as Rishi Budhrani and Kavin Jay. Our show this month will also introduce some fantastic local talent who have been earning their stripes at the regular Stand-Up Saigon nights.

The Comedy Club Asia is all about encouraging and promoting live stand up comedy. It’s amazing to have a regional flavour of comedy in with the international sets as, despite the majority of our audiences being expats, we like to remind people where they are.

9) Know your market. What are other comedians doing? What are their acts like? What can you learn from them?

The next Saigon Comedy Night will be at Hard Rock Café on Tuesday Jan. 15 and besides the local comics will feature Jeff Innocent and Brendhan Lovegrove.

10) Failure and success. Be prepared to get it wrong. If you bomb, learn from it. All good comedians have had nightmare gigs.

8) Material. A good comedian is always searching for new material.

Constantly look for ideas. If it doesn’t work, bin it. Don’t get precious.

January 2013 Word | 65

I

am an expat kid. I am living proof of someone who doesn’t know how to fill in the ‘permanent address’ box on a university application form. I have a home country that doesn’t consider me as its citizen.

I have an accent that doesn’t correspond with my nationality. I have lived the generic expat life ever since I was born; the kind where you’re not allowed to paint your room because it’s ‘only temporary.’ The kind where basic addition and subtraction is crucial when trying to find the difference for appropriate Skype dates with grandparents and cousins.

The kind where you find yourself comparing the taste of drinking water because you’ve travelled around so much.

I am British. Whether or not I’ve mastered the slang that all the British teenagers use, or if I can wear shorts in the middle of November, I am British. Every summer I return home to see family and friends, equipped with photo albums, exotic presents and — something I’ve found stands out when you’re in the UK — a suntan. Although I consider England to be my home, I know that deep down I’m an outsider. I feel as though I’m lacking some kind of connection with the people who live in England, as if I’m missing out on some kind of joke. Once a year isn’t enough time to adjust to the ever-changing British lifestyle. It’s like trying to watch a movie, only I keep leaving the room and every time I come back something new has happened.

Home Sweet Home

GENERATION V

My Own Super Power Detachment, identity and a place you can’t quite call home.

Despite its advantages, life as an international school student is not a stroll in a well-manicured park. Words by Charlotte Porter 66 | Word January 2013

I have lived in Hanoi for the past six years.

From being a country that I didn’t used to know existed, Vietnam has now become a part of me. Crossing the street has become a language that I’ve gradually picked up; difficult at first, but now something I can do fluently. While I may not speak Vietnamese, I’ve managed to conjure up my own tongue, a mixture of taxi-talk and sign language.

Hoan Kiem Lake is like the north that a compass points to; I can always find it whenever I’m lost in the Old Quarter. I’ve grown used to the construction that wakes me up at seven on a Saturday morning and to the workmen who shout down to me from the rooftops. I major in the art of bargaining and I’m still working on how to perfect the aggressive way in which the Vietnamese shop. I love spinning stories to my family and friends in England of the hectic Vietnamese traffic and the wild monsoons, or explaining how the lack of shopping malls are made up for by the maze of streets that are each dedicated to some form of goods. I see tourists walking around carrying maps the size of dinner tables and it gives me a sense of pride to know that I don’t need to do that.

Yet I used to. Six years ago, Hanoi was a labyrinth, a jungle of noise and motorbikes

and back alleys. Before Hanoi, I was living opposite Batu Ferringhi beach in Penang. I was used to civilized traffic, an abundance of incredible food and the way in which skyscrapers would bloom out of the ground overnight. Before that it was Holland. Before that it was Japan.

I see people come and go more often than not. I’ll make a new friend to replace the ones that are gone. I’m more fluent in goodbyes than I am in hellos. I bounce around from place to place so frequently that it might as well be categorised as one of those things you do every few of months, like going to the dentist.

Having the opportunity to live abroad and travel is supposed to be a luxury, but sometimes it can be really hard to see how.

I’ve been told that we are special, that we are different from all the rest,we have more of an opportunity to shine. I’ve been told that others are jealous of how fortunate we are, that they’re missing out on something big that has changed our lives. Yet how come when we all go back to our countries we feel jealous of them because they have a place to call home, a place which really is their home?

The New Super Power All the expats are thrown together in international schools across the globe. The benefit of going to an international school is that you get all the different sides to the story. During our weekly university session, I found myself comparing the American application system with a friend to my nowfamiliar UCAS. She told me she had to write a 2000-word essay answering the question: “If you could have any superpower, what would it be?”

When she first told me about this, I automatically thought of the traditional superpowers that we’re all secretly craving.

Invisibility, so we can listen to what people say about us behind our backs. Flight, so we can feel lighter than we’ve ever felt before.

Speed, so we can get to places quicker than we do now. The basics.

But then I thought about it— really thought about it. I don’t need a superpower.

I’m an International Baccalaureate (IB) student. I went back home this summer and I met someone who asked me about the ‘A’ levels I was taking. Common mistake; as someone who looks British and has a slight English twang, I should be living there, right?

I told him I was doing the IB and asked him if he’d heard of it. He had, and asked if that made me super smart. “No,” I replied,“it just means I’m unfortunate.”

Anyone who tells you that the IB isn’t hard has probably never done it or lives in a military boot camp.

I master in three higher-level subjects and three standard level subjects. I’m taking at least one science, one humanities, one arts, one first language, one maths and one second language. I have at least one assignment due every two weeks and a test every three. I could sing a song about the IB-learner profiles — backwards.

My biggest fear is the IB and I know that once I conquer that, I will be unstoppable.

Essays? Don’t get me started. I have to write a 4000-word essay judged by criteria so specific and picky it makes me cringe.

We’ve had almost everything thrown in our faces; from last-minute assessments to English orals based on a sealed envelope.

Some of us have to produce art to the level of Picasso or write essays demonstrating the research of a professor to achieve a grade worth smiling over. Some of us have to learn an entire language or memorise an extensive vocabulary. We have three weeks of exams that will determine the rest of our lives. That counts for the past 13 years of school and that will be the last thing we will ever do as high school students.

I may not be able to show my kids the house I grew up in in the future. I may not still be going to school with the same kids from my nursery. I may never truly have a place which I can call my home. But living overseas, growing up as an expat, doing the IB diploma? These are worth far more. I’ve created my own superpower. I’m almost a super hero.

Charlotte Porter is in her final year at the United Nations International School of Hanoi.

“I see people come and go more often than not. I’ll make a new friend to replace the ones that are gone”

January 2013 Word | 67

Peplum Dress, VND1,499,000 by Mango Floral Dress, VND1,079,000 by Mango

The

Tet Set Tet provides Vietnamese women with the biggest style opportunity of the year Whether you are taking photos in bright spring colours, going to a cocktail party in something darker, or in a strecthy cotton number hanging out after it all, chances are that you are going to look your best this Tet.

68 | Word January 2013

January 2013 Word | 69

Lace Dress, VND1,439,000 by Mango Leather Clutch, VND3,900,000 by Anupa

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Cotton Dress, VND520,000 iPad Case, VND3,500,000 Both by Anupa

January 2013 Word | 71

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Dress, VND999,000 by Mango Ring, VND5,645,000 by Anupa

Modelling by La Nguyen Thuc Nghi Hair, Make-up & Styling by Francis Photos by Mads Monsen Mango, Vincom B, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Anupa, 9 Dong Du, Q1

72 | Word January 2013

January 2013 Word | 73

that discarded pieces of hair would have resulted in such a booming industry?

The Definition of Beauty

LEISURE & WELLNESS

Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow Good hair is more important than life or death for some Saigonese women, with the prospect of a bad hair day out of the question. Derek Milroy discovers how salons specialising in fake hair are now a thriving business. Photo by Francis

74 | Word January 2013

D

ang, 35, stands outside the salon with her smart, classy outfit on. She is a successful businesswoman, married, looks good — tall, with a beautiful face and a great figure. But despite being given more than her fair share from her creator, it’s not enough. She needs perfect hair, not wants or would love to have — NEEDS. She draws admiring glances and jealous growls no matter where she goes, but she is not satisfied with her looks. A haircut two years ago denied her of her famed glowing dark locks and since then she has been forced to take action. The boutique she is standing outside is busy on a daily basis — they offer short-term good hair fixes and there are plenty of takers keeping them in business. Her hair extensions take two hours to complete, and her dazzling, perfect white smile when she exits Tiung Salon (5 Tan Vinh, Q4) says it all.

“I did a modeling shoot about two years ago, and my hair was so beautiful then that I want it back,” she recounts. “A little while after the shoot I went to a hair salon and they made a real mess of my hair. My hair was very long and they made my hair broken, so I have no choice but to go for some fake hair. I want my hair to be

beautiful and long. I hate short hair. I tried to keep my hair natural for a few weeks but it is not the same. I only kept it natural to keep my husband happy.”

She adds: “A friend tells me that this is the best place to go in Saigon and many famous singers and actresses also go there.

I have gone there now about five times and my latest hair I admit is the best I have had.

My husband thought I was pregnant when I came home from the salon. He says it is the happiest I’ve been in months and he knows how stubborn I am.”

The Saigonese female mind is obviously a complex area. Looking good means designer clothes and expensive make-up are a given, but great hair seems to be the most important area of the face-obsessed culture. And her husband’s wishes are secondary to her idea of how she wants to look.

Prices for extensions range from VND2 million to VND3 million at Tiung. The process involves choosing the hair you want from hundreds of options in the salon.

You have choices of short hair, long hair and shoulder-length hair, in all the colours under the sun.

With extensions now common-place in Saigon on the heads of young and ageing women alike, who would have thought

If you think that Dang is the exception in Saigon, you’re very wrong. She is in fact the rule.

Vietnamese women have much to be proud of — they have gorgeous dark manes of hair, beautiful brown eyes, smooth skin and slim bodies.

But you just have to look at the number of ‘fake’ hair salons specialising in giving city girls a little extra coverage down their backs to see they are still insecure about how they look.

City banker Hien was bored with her long dyed hair and after a rush of blood and a bad break-up with her ex-boyfriend, decided to get her luscious locks chopped.

She reckons it was the biggest mistake of her life and actually put her love woes into perspective. A few days after she went for a short bob style — like her idol, actress Ngoc Diep. Depression set in and only a week later she went straight to a fake hair store.

“It was horrible. I drank whisky every day for a week after I got my new style and went to all the discos,” she says. “I wanted a bob-style as I saw Ngoc Diep looking so good. But even she has had hair extensions put in since then. Both she and I made big mistakes. At one point I thought I was going to faint and getting the hair extensions only cost VND2 million. Now I can relax again for a few months before I have to do it all again.”

What is it about having beautiful long hair that releases endorphins into a Saigonese woman’s brain that no amount of Prozac could provide? Could it be the traditional description of a Vietnamese woman’s role in life — cong, dung, ngon, hanh — the second word, dung, meaning that a woman has to try and be beautiful and make everyone who sees her become fond of her? Is this why appearance is so vital to self-confidence?

Many Vietnamese women believe they are the most beautiful in the world.

However, their obsession to look good can be a little intensive and hair extensions are only a short fix to their problem — vanity — which is apparently the devil’s favourite sin.

Special thanks to Phuong Lai Hair Salon (132134 Cong Quynh, Q1) for allowing Word to take the photo for this story.

January 2013 Word | 75

TRENDSPOTTER

ECO TO GO Restaurants and resorts in Vietnam have latched onto the term ecotourism. But the meaning is badly defined, and the trend does nothing to prop up the country’s biodiversity. Words by Douglas Pyper.

Photos by Aaron Joel Santos “Ecotourism is both a reaction to rapid urbanisation, and the latest in a long string of trends to hit Vietnam”

L

ike fungi on your semi-dry clothes, or acne on your tender face, a new phenomenon is breaking out all over Vietnam.

Signs for something called du lich sinh thai are popping up in all sorts of unexpected places. They vie for your attention among forests of Karaoke and Nha Nghi neon, only with a more serene demeanor. If your Vietnamese language skills aren’t the best, you’d be forgiven for being a little confused about this mysterious new piece of vocabulary, sinh thai.

Sinh thai actually means ‘ecology’, making this new phenomenon ‘ecotourism’. Quite how you’d infer this

76 | Word January 2013

from all the new ecotourism spots around Vietnam, however, is harder to explain. In an alley off Ngoc Thuy road in Gia Lam, Hanoi one such newfangled sign directs you to Khu du lich sinh thai Bao Son, the Bao Son Ecotourism Area. In an area full of potted bonsai trees, you’ll find a restaurant, a couple of fishing ponds and a solitary alligator hiding in the muddy water of a concrete enclosure.

By now, those who know the meaning of the word ‘ecology’ are probably a little confused. So too are the staff in the Bao Son Ecotourism Area. “There are many trees and ponds here,” one waitress explains, “so we call it ecotourism.” On

the subject of raising environmental awareness, or whether that animal in the enclosure is an alligator or a crocodile, she’s quick to point out that they are in a restaurant. “We don’t teach anybody anything,” she says.

Words and Meanings Those who find this laughable, should try looking up the term ‘ecotourism’ in a number of English language dictionaries.

The unfortunate truth is that the term is ill-defined and varies from authority to authority. Josh Kempinski, who worked with Flora and Fauna International in Vietnam for over four years, describes

ecotourism as “one of those unfortunate terms. It just evolved and everyone jumped on it, and everyone slightly hijacked it.”

The most widely accepted description of ecotourism defines it in flexible, multifaceted terms. Ecotourism has come to cover three pillars: culture, environment and education. For a tourism facility to be considered eco in these terms, it should educate the traveller about a people or an environment, or help to protect that environment or ethnic group’s way of life. By this definition all kinds of unlikely tourism activities suddenly become ecotourism, including a trip to Mai Chau village, where visitors can experience the arts, customs, architecture and cuisine of the local Thai people, albeit in a very artificial setting. Bao Son Ecotourism Area, however, would still fail to qualify.

While the term ecotourism is internationally ill-defined, its Vietnamese equivalent du lich sinh thai is all but meaningless. Vu The Vinh, the founder of Hanoi-based tourism company Handspan, believes that what ecotourism means to Vietnamese people is “they have a chance to encounter more with a natural space.

That’s about it. They don’t do anything apart from have a large space and a chance to have fun.”

To Vinh, ecotourism is both a reaction to rapid urbanisation, and the latest in a long string of trends to hit Vietnam. Vinh remembers being told 10 years ago that in the future, Vietnamese people would pay thousands of dollars for imported high quality bicycles. “I couldn’t imagine that. But suddenly, in the last year or

two everybody has a bicycle. It’s typical Vietnamese. If it happens, it happens very quickly and it has its own way.”

Internationally the dialogue and the lexicon on ecotourism is changing and expanding. As Josh points out “ecotourism is a bit of a misnomer if you’re doing a homestay somewhere like Mai Chau.”

While a regular flow of tourists coming to see a clean, farming environment that supports the livelihoods of an entire village is undoubtedly incentive enough for the local population to keep that area clean in terms of visible littering and water pollution, it isn’t protecting or preserving an ecologically fragile area. In reality, it is better described as being ecologically neutral. Today, a raft of other terms such as ‘nature tourism’ or ‘sustainable tourism’ are beginning to replace the much abused ecotourism. When applied to the Bao Son Ecotourism area or Mai Chau respectively, these two terms make much more sense.

From Irony to Where?

The real irony in the false ecotourism trend in Vietnam is that the country has the potential to be one of the world’s premier ecotourism locations. From more than a half decade of conservation in the country, Josh knows that “Vietnam is one of the most important countries in the world for primate conservation.” Species like the Tonkin snub-nose monkey, Delacour’s langur, the cao vit gibbon and the greyshanked duoc langur can only be found in isolated locations within Vietnam, and nowhere else on earth. The potential for genuine, high-end, small-scale ecotourism to these locations, with much of the

proceeds going to preserve the animals and their natural habitats, is one of the country’s great untapped resources.

Yet for all the potential, Vietnam’s wildlife remains largely unknown.

“Vietnam as a brand,” says Josh, “doesn’t build on nature tourism at all.” This is in stark contrast to the advertising campaigns of Incredible India, or Malaysia Truly Asia whereby orangutans, elephants and other tropical wildlife feature prominently. “If you looked at any of the advertising for Vietnam,” he adds, “you’d think that there was no wildlife here.”

With much at stake, failing to tap into ecotourism or nature-based tourism, just doesn’t make economic sense.

Globally, tourism is one of the world’s most important industries, accounting for around 9 percent of the world’s GDP. It continues to grow robustly, with the rate presently hovering around 4 percent per year. Within the sector, Asia is one of the fastest growing regions, with Vietnam one of the continent’s best performers. In the last decade, Vietnam’s tourism growth has been outstanding. From hosting around 2.3 million visitors in 2001, the country managed to lift that number to around 6 million in 2011. Worldwide, ecotourism — as a term encompassing nature tourism and sustainable tourism — is the single fastest growing sub-sector. These heady statistics, promising very tangible financial incentives for those savvy enough, leave Josh and the conservation community with only one conclusion: “If we can’t tap into tourism for the benefit of biodiversity conservation in Vietnam, then we’re doing something wrong.”

January 2013 Word | 77

City Guide BUSINESS LISTINGS 080 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 088 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 097 / SOUND & VISION LISTINGS 115 / LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS 120 / LIFESTYLE LISTINGS 128 / GENERATION V LISTINGS 136 PHOTO PROVIDED BY THE SINGAPORE TOURISM BOARD

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DELOITTE VIETNAM

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GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS

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Globaleye provide an invaluable resource for expats living in Vietnam who want to maintain tax efficient savings while having access to major fund houses such as Fidelity & JP Morgan from only VND3 million a month, and also to have the right insurance protection for families living on foreign soil.

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9266 www.kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides executive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED

7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: 3812 5562 www.odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

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SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

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Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 2262 TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services.

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Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3910 3500 www.admaker.com.vn A local full service agency run by advertising professionals dedicated to providing clients with results orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

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74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 6662 www.bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

COWAN – STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 3064 www.cowandesign.com Specialising in brand strategy and brand design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies. Wholly

owned with seven global offices — three of which are in Asia and working extensively across India, Southeast Asia and North Asia.

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM

13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn Draftfcb is one of the largest global advertising agency networks with headquarters in both Chicago and New York.

Has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries including many in the region.

EDGE MARKETING

PHIBIOUS

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 6777 www.phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company growing fast throughout Indochina. Now with offices in Saigon, Phnom Penh and an association in Vientiane, Phibious employs over 70 staff that are driven towards helping brands connect and grow in this dynamic region.

Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

1Bis Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 3911 1191 www.edge–asia.com A creative marketing company that matches the results–driven requirements of modern business with the needs of the consumer. Embraces a wide range of modern technology and concepts to help provide a full–service marketing package to their clients.

PURPLE ASIA

GREY GROUP

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3929 1450 www.grey.com/vietnam A full spectrum marketing communications company, Grey Group’s work includes PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Has offices in nearly 100 countries and major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Villa B,12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: 3740 6388 www.industrialdesignasia.com Offers (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for all products; plastics, consumer products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia.

Contact them to get a free quotation.

Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3898 1005 www.purpleasia.com A leading independent creative communications company. Offers a wide range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: 3820 0169 www.red.vn Long established, branding consultancy and marketing agency. From Vietnam to Australia, the red team create and shape unique brand personalities that add impact to international and local brands.

The team regularly share industry trends, news and views at red.tm/blog.

RIVER ORCHID

Tel: 3925 2538 www.riverorchid.com The only communications network specialising in Indochina including Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade. Riverorchid specialises in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

SAATCHI & SAATCHI

3 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: 3824 1207 www.saatchi.com 60th among the top 100 global advertising agencies, the company has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world. Services include advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting, graphic design and advertising.

TBWA\VIETNAM

Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3824 5315 www.tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, named Advertising Age’s “Best International Network of the Decade” in 2010 and ranked 24th on Fast Company’s 2009 list of “The World’s 50 Most Innovative Companies”. Marketing services include strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

TYA VIETNAM

3rd Floor, Lafayette Building, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3956 www.tya.com.vn Established 1982 in Japan, TYA is a strategic creative agency with a growing network across Asia Pacific.

TYA uses this strength to match clients’ diverse business strategies. Their international team offers the TYA brand of strategic creative that strives to satisfy clients' business objectives to the fullest.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1, Tel: 3914 3615 www.marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide.

Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented campaigns that have been selected as global best practice by both international and local clients.

ASIAN

TIG T

ERS

OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9529 www.ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know–how with a worldwide network.

Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

PBB GRAPHIC STUDIO

Tel: 0126 5669632 contact@pbb-studio.com www.pbb-studio.com Founded in 2002, with more than 10 years of experience in graphic design, PBB specialises in branding, interior graphics, signage, print design, POSM and web design. As of 2006, PBB has been based in Ho Chi Minh City operating as a graphic consultant for creative agencies, companies as well as private clients.

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business XONE FM

100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 5341 www.xonefm.com The first independently run radio station in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest and hottest songs in both English and Vietnamese. Has 10 channels throughout the country, in Ho Chi Minh City on 104.5 FM and Hanoi on 102.7 FM. The schedule runs from Monday to Friday from 6am to 9am, 4pm to 11pm and at the weekends between 1pm and 11pm.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, el: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM

11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3823 7858 www.bdg–vietnam.com BDG is one of the leading business development and consulting company in Vietnam active in the areas of sourcing & production, strategic marketing and Project Management.

Partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open new perspectives, address critical challenges and drive business activities to success in Vietnam. BDG is a private company with four offices in three countries.

CONCETTI

33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

DL TECHNOLOGIES

69A1 Tran Ke Xuong, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3551 2260 www.dltechnologies.com.au DL Technologies provide premium integrated technology solutions with emphasis on local “on the ground” support from a highly skilled and continually trained international team.

Services include background music systems, lighting management and control systems, security & access control systems, premium audio and video with automated controls, discreet audio and video, home theatre, iPadbased home control / audio video control systems, air-conditioning control and energy management systems.

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business ERNST & YOUNG

8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk.

Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

GOLDEN SPEED SEO

www.goldenspeedseo.com info@goldenspeedseo.com Get maximum exposure for your website by improving your rankings in search engines like Google. A steady flow of potential clients will visit your site every day once you have achieved a good position on search engines' results pages.

Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

GRANT THORNTON

28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants working in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0916 352573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Huong Nguyen is a professional Image Consultant based in Ho Chi Minh City and the UK. An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES (VIETNAM) COMPANY LIMITED 8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3829 6416 www.prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering technical expertise in the areas of data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE

6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Specialist intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services. From the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services, include IP filing and management services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com Incorporation of offshore and foreign– owned Vietnamese companies. Opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts, providing licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing.

Also provides, investment strategies and administration services for foreign-owned companies based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0904 410884 www.strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL is a strategic solutions provider serving as a longterm strategic partner with senior leaders and organisations in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Focuses on the future, striving to deliver superior results, customer value and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions, derived from a combination of researchbased best-practice, consulting and learning with a focus on change, people, strategy and leadership.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 6291 2205 www.tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia. Their core strengths are corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion, and market research.

Offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Thailand, China and India.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development.

Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3562. www.amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

Ho Chi Minh Chapter, Suite 1A, 1st Floor, TV Building, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0272/ 73/ 74 www.auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group in Vietnam established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating here. AusCham co–ordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations, and promotes profile charity events in Vietnam.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM

25 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 8430 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM

Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums about doing business in Vietnam.

Offers an array of seminars as well as social and networking events.

NORDCHAM

12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM

40/5 Pham Viet Chanh, Ward 19, Binh Thanh www.pbgvn.com A non-profit, non-government, and non-political organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding, to serve as the voice of Philippine business entities and establish relationships with other business associations in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcm.org A group with over 300 members who meet regularly to foster business relations with others in the community, as well as taking part in social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities. Hosts regular networking functions and special events. Membership is VND200,000 per month and allows you access to a wide range of discounts around town.

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2 Tel: 3744 6996 www.swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a non-governmental, non-political, non-profit organisation that strives to promote business, economic, cultural activities and other interests of common concern to the Swiss Business Association’s members and the Vietnamese authorities.

CONSUMER GIFTS AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD.

14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3824 8364 manish@ambrij.com www.ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and much more.

EVENT MANAGEMENT EVECOO

Tel: 0988 297990 www.evecoo.vn Evecoo provides everything needed to plan, supply, organise, publicise, improve and implement a successful event. Evecoo gives every client specific attention and adds the needed magic to make any event memorable.

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3825 6048 www.galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall in the centre of District 1 has four different ballrooms and a rooftop terrace, professional banquet, catering, and event services.

Gala Royale is the ideal place for events such as meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings, or anniversaries.

MR BOUNCY INFLATABLE GAME HIRE 50/8 Hoa Binh, Q11, Tel: 0165 6392 507 www.mrbouncy.com.vn Mr Bouncy is an inflatable game hire company, offering great products hiring out a number of inflatables such as waterballs, bouncy castles and many more great items for parties and events.

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO.,LTD

268/3-5 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan binh Tel: 6675 2620 www.vietnam-weddings.com One World Tourism’s wedding planning business offers comprehensive wedding planning services in Vietnam no matter what size or type of wedding. It is offered to couples seeking high quality, attention to detailed planning and resources, wanting to create the wedding of their dreams, no matter what size, style or location.

PHOTO OI!

Tel: 01269 502790www.photooi.com Photo booth rental service that combines digital photography and instant photo printing using only top-of-the-line equipment and materials. Photo Oi! Sets up a booth at any event complete with backdrop and fun props that everyone can use.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering.

Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to provide the ideal solution for any kind of event.

EXPAT SERVICES CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7237 www.chumshouse.com A service dedicated to finding people a place to live. With an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference, they can have you moved into a new house within days. Help

with motorbike rentals, visas and other information about living in Vietnam is also available. All services provided free of charge.

HAPPY HOUSE

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916 www.happy-house.vn Created by a team of Vietnamese and expat professionals, Happy House aims to make life in Saigon easier for everyone by offering practical solutions for a myriad of problems, including monthly bill payments, home repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering, computer repair and pet transportation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross– cultural and business awareness training.

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE

Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent.

Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news. Also does research and management services.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 3529/3530 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management, and support services.

CREATION

International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6291 7553 A real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sales, leasings, rentals, free brokerage and aftersales service.

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 4707 www.cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising

in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy. For further information email hcmc.info@ ap.cushwake.com.

EASY SAIGON

www.easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.

Enquiries via their website are welcome.

HOUSINGINTERACTIVE

Tel: 6255 6774 www.housinginteractive.com HousingInteractive offers an easy-touse, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website allows users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time. Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

KNIGHT FRANK

Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 6777 www.knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896 as a valuations, surveying and auctions business, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy.

In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION

48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0989 00 77 00 www.namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions, decorations in HCM city especially in District 2. Supporting the professional services and after–sales.

PLATINUM1

Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com This American–based company provides a range of comprehensive real estate services. Known for its efficient and dependable service, it has global connections and expertise in the Vietnam real estate market.

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business

SAVILLS VIET NAM LTD. Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is the leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and many other services.

SNAP www.snap.com.vn A simple, web–based real estate search service. Provides information on rental properties all around the city with full listings available online.

SPOT 18/34b Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 955 877 www.spotvietnam.com Native English speakers specialising in rentals and tenancy management. Spot offers quick and easy complimentary services from start to close.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3520 2000 www.sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and for lease in Vietnam and around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901 www.thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale. Service is orientated towards expats.

Website is in English, French and Spanish.

TRANSPO PROPERTY (VIETNAM) Suite 501, Anh Kim Office Building, 43 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3914 7003 http://vietnam.transpo-property.com Transpo Property specialises in finding a suitable residence for their clients, as well as offering a full range of relocation services including school search, preview trips, orientation tours, and whatever else one may need when moving to Vietnam. Also provides a home search service to expats who are already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-onone instruction at a comfortable and centrally located facility, in your home, office, or over Skype.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE Tel: 3825 8416 www.interglobalvn.com Offers full hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits. Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. Available for anyone up to 74 years of age. No claims discount available.

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allocation and money management.

Debt and cash–flow planning. Life, disability and health insurance. Family wealth protection.

VINACAPITAL BLUE CROSS VIETNAM

Lau 8, River View Tower, Thai Van Lung,Q 1 Tel: 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.

Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance.

To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IF CONSULTING

1A Me Linh Square, Q1 Tel: 3827 7362 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers to provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3812 5125 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1800 599 998.

PRUDENTIAL

Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3823 9355 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP www.ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering ‘real’ alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t–wm.com Personal financial planning for expatriates. Portable retirement savings plans for individuals of all nationalities.

Tax minimisation strategies. Asset

17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9930 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO EDUCATION & TRAINING

26 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3597 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers high– quality and cost–effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

BELL VIETNAM

28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 www.bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM

51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3838 6788 www.ilavietnam.com A foreign owned education and training company that offers a broad range of educational programmes and services such as English language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training, and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L'ATELIER

33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492 www.latelier-anphu.com L’Atelier is a French language centre offering classes in all forms to children and adults, and to French-speaking and foreign residents. Each course is offered in small groups of a maximum of four people or in private class. Classes include spelling and grammar tuition after school, monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), and Vietnamese lessons, including extracurricular activities during the holidays.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and central school, in your home, office, or over Skype.

VLS SAIGON

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0168 www.vlsstudies.com A leading professional institution specialising in teaching Vietnamese to international students. Courses range from basic conversational Vietnamese for beginners to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as a range of special courses that take in Vietnamese literature, composition and a crash-course 6-hour survival session.

Courses range in intensity and classes take place on and off campus.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION (NOTARIZED)

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 6678 0914 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3925 9800 www.vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected non–governmental language institutions in Ho Chi Minh City. The English language training programmes are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York. Has a number of campuses throughout the city.

LAUNDRY COSMO LAUNDRY & DRY CLEANING

Office: 80 Nguyen Khoa, Q4, Tel: 6261 6868 Valet shops: Circle K Store, 15B1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1; 36 Su Van Hanh, Q5; CRII, The Crescent, Q7; Shop & Go Store, RMIT University 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.cosmolaundry.com Cosmo Laundry & Dry Cleaning offers professional and reliable laundry & dry cleaning services for executive officers, expatriates and business associations in Ho Chi Minh City.

MICKEY LAUNDRY

203 Bui Vien, Q1 29 Hung Gia 4 St, Q7 F4 Luong Dinh Cua, Q2, Tel: 2244 4466 Now in three convenient locations, Saigon’s leading laundry does wash and fold, dry-cleaning and ironing, along with a range of specialised services including spot removal, colour dyeing, tailoring, repairs, leather cleaning and business shirt service. Free pickup and delivery.

MR CLEAN

16 Tran Khac Chan, Q1, Tel: 2218 8111 www.mrcleanvietnam.com Mr Clean offers dry cleaning and laundry services for everything from wedding and ball gowns, suede and leathers to suits, shirts and jackets, and handbags and luggage. Repairs and alterations and shoe cleaning are also available. Using an oil-based solvent to ensure longer lasting clean clothes, Mr Clean offers free pickup and delivery and same day service.

liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRASERS LAW COMPANY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com The first legal firm to receive a foreign law company license to operate in Vietnam, Frasers Law Company is an integrated team providing international legal advice in a Vietnamese context on all areas of business and commerce to leading global and local companies investing and operating in Vietnam. Ranked in the top tier of international law firms practising in this jurisdiction. Monthly newsletter available by email.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL (GLN) A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8599 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services that combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

INDOCHINE COUNSEL

Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established at the end of 2006, the firm assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 8860 www.mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994 with offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the firm provides clients with the full range of legal services in all areas of business including corporate, real estate, banking and finance, and all forms of inward investment.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRAINBOX VIETNAM

5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6920 7405 www.brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with

its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

EMBERS ASIA

4th floor, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn Based in Singapore with campuses located throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes and corporate training to bachelor programmes in finance, business management and tourism and hospitality management, all the way through to the 12-month MBAs awarded by the Australian Institute of Business Administration.

G&H

6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9919 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients.

Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

INNOVATIVE TRAINING 2020

Ian: 01283 327472 Tom: 01696 826578 www.innovativetraining2020.com Innovative Training 2020 provides tailored training courses combining soft skills with English. A knowledgeable team is able to offer English languageled training and development to all industries — hospitality, banking, healthcare, IT and local government.

RMIT

702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development. Well-known for their MBA programme which can be taken both part and full-time.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development.

Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3822 7727 www.cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

EPINION

11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4 Tel: 3826 8989 www.epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company that operates the largest online panel in Vietnam and offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH

3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6965 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 6314 www.mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997.

Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices. Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis, and trade promotion.

SYNOVATE VIETNAM

13th Floor, Room 1312, Khumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6288 8785 www.synovate.com A global market research company that drives competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies. With offices

in 64 countries, Synovate combines global research capabilities with a personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific requirements.

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: 3997 8088 http://vn.nielsen.com Nielsen Holdings N.V. (NYSE: NLSN) is a global information and measurement company with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties.

Nielsen has a presence in approximately 100 countries, with headquarters in New York and Diemen in the Netherlands.

TNS VIETNAM

105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 Tel: 3821 5727 www.tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customised, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MANDARIN MEDIA

www.mandarinmedia.net A public relations, marketing and IT company with offices in Saigon, Hue and Portland (USA). Led by a team of seasoned journalists, Mandarin Media generates news and features about your company in English–language newspapers and magazines worldwide.

MASS GROUP

30 Dang Tat, Q1 www.massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand–building consulting.

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS

Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: 3838 5517 www.matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam.

Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility, and media and issues management and training.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA)

1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 2220 2989 www.universalmanagementasia.com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS

Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE

12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provide on–the–ground

January 2013 Word | 85

BUSINESS

BUFF

business and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6291 0462 www.veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues/ crisis management.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS 37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1 Tel: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

RECRUITMENT & HR HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

HIGH FREQUENCY TRADING

1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is currently one of the top three HR consulting firms in Vietnam, specialising in matching senior level professionals to top opportunities in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Other services include: payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

MANPOWER VIETNAM HIGH FREQUENCY TRADING OR HFT has been the most influential change to hit Wall Street over the last decade.

Some economists, including the chief at the Commodity Futures Trading Commission, Andrei Kirilenko, have concluded that the high-speed trading firms that have come to dominate the USA’s financial markets are taking significant profits from traditional investors. HFT has been described as “much like Maroon 5 computer traders making money by churning out the same formulae over and over again.”

So what is HFT and how does it work?

First, some perspective on time. One microsecond is the time of one flash of a strobe light which happens 1,000,000 times a second. In this time an HFT trader can do one trade or around 5,000 trades in the average time it takes to blink. These fractions of time put a whole new meaning on the phrase “time is money”.

WIRED IN This is achieved through crucial cables.

A cable which was completed in 2010 between New York and Chicago at a cost of US$300 million saved 3 microseconds for traders with access.

A new trans-Atlantic cable between New York and London is expected to be completed this year at a cost of US$400 million will save 5

86 | Word January 2013

microseconds, and a trans-Arctic cable between London and Japan at a cost of US$1.5 billion is expected to save 62 microseconds and be finished in 2014.

These cables are combined with huge broadband speeds. The average broadband speed in the UK is 9Mbps, or 7 seconds to download a song. The average HFT connection is 10Gbps or 0.0064 seconds a song. The location of your server is also crucial with the average cost of a 1.75” server spot close to the exchange costing around US$5,000 per month. The guys that write the codes can get paid a base salary of anywhere from US$400,000 to US$1.2 million a year.

As all of this is relatively new, regulators are on the back foot. HFT firms make up only 2 percent of the trading community yet their trading represents over 70 percent of all equity orders on exchanges in the US. This was the cause of the flash crash in 2010, a.k.a The Crash of 2:45, which occurred on May 6, 2010 when the Dow Jones Industrial Average plunged about 1,000 points (about 9 percent) only to recover those losses within minutes.

Let’s just hope these IT traders are more self-regulating than the old school traders were meant to be.

Shane works in financial services, he welcomes your questions or comments at shane@t-wm.com

8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3911 0950 www.manpower.com.vn Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT 4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3820 3115 www.mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing.

Works within a wide variety of industries.

NAVIGOS GROUP 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

OPUS VIETNAM RO 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups, with over 30 offices worldwide.

ROBERT WALTERS VIETNAM 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 7900 www.robertwalters.com.vn Robert Walters Vietnam offers a highly professional and specialised recruitments service. With 47 offices in 23 countries, Robert Walters holds

an established track record with Asia's leading institutions, from multinational corporations to smaller enterprises. The Vietnam office specialises in permanent jobs across these disciplines: Sales & Marketing, Technical Healthcare, Accountancy & Finance, Banking & Financial Services, Human Resources, IT, Supply Chain, Engineering and Oil & Gas Technical.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM (formally Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9488 www.towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam.

Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Online jobsearch website with probably the best selection of jobs in Vietnam.

Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS 2nd Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3454 www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services.

In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

network. Also local, domestic and office moves. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Email Chris Honor at chris@logicalmoves.net for further information.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com Resident Vietnam is the first dedicated relocation company with 11 years of experience in Vietnam and provides full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED 7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4 Tel: 3826 8850 www.seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam. SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS

for long-term lease, each unit comes fully furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay and range from VND11,825,000 to VND16,125,000 per month. This is inclusive of two gas cylinders, five big bottles of water per month, daily usage of water and parking, thrice-weekly apartment servicing, ADSL Internet, and access to the fitness centre.

CITYVIEW 12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1111 www.cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown with 69 fully–furnished apartments.

Facilities include a gym, a pool room, a kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 8888 www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon is the InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences with 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area and is part of the brand-new Kumho Link Asiana Plaza, the city’s finest integrated food and beverage complex featuring commercial, residential and luxury shopping arcade.

CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

JASMINE COURT

656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3 Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments

307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh www.jasminecourt.com.vn Located five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes

from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with only 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes. Amenities in each apartment include a 32” LCD TV, DVD player and audio system, in-room safe and wireless Internet with broadband connectivity, and a fourfixture en suite with shower.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3822 6111 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers clients a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steamroom, as well as two on-site restaurants — Shang Palace and Terrazzo Café.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside–apartments.com Four–hectares of nature on the bank of the Saigon River where all can enjoy the lifestyle of a resort with all the luxury amenities of a fully servicedapartment. Located within minutes of the downtown area by high speed boat shuttle service.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one–to–three bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes. Have a range of residential

facilities including a gym, squash court, business centre and Minimart.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3823 2288 www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property in Ho Chi Minh City and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9197 www.somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court and Somerset Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL (VIETNAM) LTD. 9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4.

Tel: 3826 7799 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers are the largest regional move management specialists with partners all over the world, with services including door to door moving, housing and school finding, local and office moves, and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 4237 www.crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 3826 7655 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES – VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 3941 5325 www.logicalmoves.net Specialists in international moves for household goods and used personal effects through our global partner

January 2013 Word | 87

destination

DESTINATION LISTINGS DALAT 082 HANOI 083 AROUND HANOI 083 HCMC INTERNATIONAL 085 HCMC DELUXE 086 HCMC MID-RANGE 086 HCMC BUDGET 087 HOI AN & DA NANG 088 HUE & QUANG BINH 088 NHA TRANG 089 PHAN THIET & MUI NE 089

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic place to rest those weary feet, but it’s right in the middle of town.

HANOI PHU QUOC 090 SAPA 091 VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO 091 TRAVEL SERVICES 091

CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Hanoi Tel: 04 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property, this 24-storey, mixed use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre.

Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

CREDIT

COLUMNS DESTINATION ZERO 084 TRAVEL PROMOS 090

FRASER SUITES

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

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$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com This luxurious and tranquil sanctuary of relaxation is nestled on the gentle and picturesque slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Offering 65 rooms from 17 original French colonial villas, rates start at just over VND 2 million++ and rise to over VND6 million++ per night. Top-notch services and facilities include a personal butler on call from 7am to 10pm, in-villa dining and the La Cochinchine Spa with a range of holistic and therapeutic treatments.

BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA CREDIT

$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views,

PRICE RANGE

and every modern amenity, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa and reasonable prices to match.

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

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$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 3827 999 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in the centre of town, this no-frills budget hotel offers 12 basic but nicely decorated and clean guestrooms, all with free Wi-Fi. Rooms start at VND300,000. A coffee shop can be found on the ground floor and the hotel offers airport pickup, bicycle rental, tour information, a laundry service and business centre.

DALAT PALACE

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$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat, Tel: 063 382 5444 www.dalatpalace.vn Overlooking central Dalat, the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain further afield, the city’s top and most classic hotel still maintains its original 1920s style and charm. Has 38 rooms and five suites, a gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie serving international and local cuisine, a piano bar, Larry’s Bar in the basement and five meeting rooms.

DREAMS HOTEL $

BELOW VND630,000

$$

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

88 | Word January 2013

151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private hotel has made it justifiably popular.

You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from VND500,000 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

LA SAPINETTE DALAT

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$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat Tel: 3740 7512 www.lasapinette.com Situated in the centre of Dalat’s famous Liang Biang Plateau, La Sapinette is a first class hotel with traditional, French art nouveau-styled décor. Also has a modern commercial centre, complete with stateof-the art facilities, 91 rooms including one and two-bedroom apartments.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: 063 382 2663 www.thesinhtourist.vn You get door–to–door service from Saigon

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 8877 Fax: 04 3719 8811 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com Strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is ideal for expatriates who desire a home close to work, and yet offers repose from the bustle of the city. The gold– standard serviced residence is in the Westlake district, an enclave preferred by foreign executives and their families and close to a good selection of quality restaurants, gourmet food shops and decent bars.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969 www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) daily, replenished minibar and snack basket service in every room.

Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

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$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 7566 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good no–frills option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact with small but clean bathrooms and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi–Fi connections available.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

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$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com Just on the side of beautiful St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a good, comfortable mid–range hotel. Each of the 10 rooms is fitted with cable television, Wi–Fi and a mini bar. The staff is quite helpful and can arrange tours and tickets to many destinations surrounding Hanoi. With room fees starting at $40 a night, and topping out at $50, the small boutique– style hotel offers quite a deal.

MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

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$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com Located only 50 meters away from Hang Cot, the newly built Marigold Hotel Hanoi elegantly combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with a modernised classic facade. The Mimosa Wine Bar & Pub, an Irish bar complete with nightly live Irish music, is located on the top floor, providing excellent views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

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HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

$ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com The cheapest European–style place in town, with bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers, also has a second hostel at 9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem (Tel: 04 3935 1890) close to all the latenight Old Quarter bars and eating spots.

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HANOI HILTON

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this five–star is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that once housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top–end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. Presently undergoing extensive renovation.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Maison d’Hanoi provides an elegant respite from the traffic and noise of the city. They have 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have Wi–Fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.4 million for a guest room to VND4.4 million for a suite.

CREDIT

PULLMAN HOTEL DESTINATION

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808 www.pullman-hanoi.com A recent refit and a change of management – this property is now run by the Accor group – have given this 250-room hotel the sparkle that it had once lost. Good quality deluxe rooms and suites, a cavernous but contemporary looking lobby, an excellent buffet and a la carte restaurant, and a sleek image that would be at home anywhere in the world, this business traveller-orientated property is also close enough to the Old Quarter to make it a great stopping off point for anyone wanting to explore Hanoi.

SOFITEL METROPOLE

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$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the

ambience of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL CREDIT

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free Internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness centre with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relaxation lounge and VIP massage room.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$ 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Q3 Tel: 3933 0077 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

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CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and home to the well-known national primate centre, the accommodation here is in modern rooms, stilt houses or detached bungalows. Includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre and on the road linking the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude–cruises.com This comfortable yet accurate reproduction of a 19th–century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in small but impeccably maintained cabins.

They also offer transfers from Hanoi itself.

A great, classic experience.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam–aventure.com This eco–village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in 10 houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills.

Has its own spa and restaurant.

LA VIE VU LINH

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: 04 3926 2743 (Freewheelin’ Tours) info@freewheelin-tours.com www.lavievulinh.com Located 170km northwest of Hanoi and on the banks of Thac Ba Lake, this bambooconstructed eco lodge close to Yen Bai is situated in one of the most tranquil and visually stimulating areas in Vietnam.

Set in a Dao Quan Trang ethnic minority

village, accommodation is either in the main stilt-house area or in the rammed earth rooms and starts at VND250,000 per night. Offers a whole host of activities including lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours and walking trips into the surrounding mountains.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com Located in a lush valley home to indigenous Vietnamese minority groups, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is a luxurious alternative to the stilt house homestay accommodation offered close by. Has all the usual western amenities in a beautiful setting and every room has a view of either the mountain, lake, pool or valley.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 03 3384 8108 www.novotelhalong.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including the pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay.

Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

HCMC INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth–floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

DUXTON HOTEL

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$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Right in the middle of town, the Duxton deserves its luxury appellation with all the features the tired business executive needs including pool, gym, spa, bar and fine dining. The rooms and suites are luxurious. Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets.

EQUATORIAL

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Only a ten-minute drive from downtown Saigon, this big and businesslike property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also has some of the biggest banquet facilities in the city and an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

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$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: 3925 7777 www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn A five-star luxury hotel with 334 rooms and suites, and 53 serviced apartments. Offers excellent services and facilities for both business and leisure travellers, including 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity grand ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool and gym, Japanese and

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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travel Promos EDEN RESORT PHU QUOC Eden Resort’s sumptuous Phu Quoc location offers the ideal Honeymoon experience, for the newly wed or those who want to feel like that again. The three-day, twonight Honeymoon package includes complimentary buffet breakfasts, a sunset champagne dinner, a half-day island tour and all the extravagances you’d expect of a world class resort — VND5,800,000++ per package. www.edenresort.com.vn MERCURE DANANG To celebrate its newly-opened Karma Spa, Mercure Danang is offering two spa promotions through the month of January.

VND850,000 net gets you a 90-minute spa treatment, with herbal compress massage and face saver, and the buy-twoget-one-free gift certificate promotion lasts until Feb. 8. www.mercure-danang.com ANA MANDARA VILLAS DALAT With its location in the

highlands of Dalat, overlooking a 100-year pine forest from 17 colonial French villas, each originally constructed between the 1920s and 1930s, there’s not too much more Ana Mandara needs to do to sell itself. However, the resort is rolling out classic offers this month and the next that should make it seem even more appealing.

In January, a two-night stay in a villa room with daily breakfast for two, a set menu dinner at elegant Le Petit Dalat restaurant and a credit of VND840,000 at Spa La Cochinchine is on offer — from VND7,875,000 per package.

In February, Tet is celebrated with an overnight villa room special, including a complimentary breakfast and VND1 million to spend at the nearby outlets — from VND3,045,000 per package. www.anamandara-resort.com EMERALDA RESORT NINH BINH This winter, Emeralda Resort’s Executive Chef Can is cooking

destination

See more at wordhcmc.com

up a BBQ every Saturday night, to be enjoyed in the redolence of the sunset-tipped mountains overlooking the property. Either that, or after a swift game on the new 9-hole mini golf course in one of the most stunningly attractive areas of Vietnam. www.emeraldaresort.com

Chinese restaurants, an all day dining restaurant, and 24-hours room service. Also provides city shuttles, airport transfers, city tours, currency exchange, limousine service, ticketing and mail services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

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$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com You’ll notice the difference when you first enter the lobby here – the architect was in serious atrium mode when he drew up the design. There’s no shortage of space in the rooms, either, and a fine selection of dining, from buffets (the atrium again), to Chinese, Japanese and western.

MOEVENPICK HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.movenpick-hotels.com Located a stone’s throw away from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, this tastefully decorated Swiss-run hotel possesses 278 well appointed rooms and suites, five restaurants and bars, meeting and banquet facilities. The shopping arcade, and popular e-gaming centre make this a preferred option for both business and leisure travellers.

AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

NEW WORLD HOTEL

EVA AIRWAYS 4th Floor, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 4488 www.evaair.com JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Bi Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town CREDIT

$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous–looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation as has the ground floor Italian-themed Opera, and Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE

$$$$ 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissance–saigon.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus Kabin, one of the best– CREDIT

REX HOTEL

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$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3829 2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history and still possessing a certain fading charm, the Rex is now mainly populated by tour groups, while for the independent traveller it has been comprehensively overtaken in value terms. But its open– air fifth–floor bar is still one of the must– do experiences of the city, and there is now a great gym and spa area on the sixth floor as well. A recent renovation and the addition of the new wing has seen the entry of the top-end designer brands to the shopping arcade of this now five-star property.

SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first–class facilities topped by an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

HOTEL MAJESTIC

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$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn This hotel makes you think of words like classic, traditional, vintage and colonial.

Overlooking the Saigon River, and recently renovated to international standard, it retains a unique atmosphere which makes it especially memorable for newcomers to the city. The rest of us just take advantage of its cheap buffet lunches. $$$ 648/65 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3, Tel: 3846 0263 hotel@mamaison.vn Just a short alley from the Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ma Maison Boutique Hotel caters to demanding clients of both long–term expats and French art aficionados. The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside.

Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in–house guests on a French farmhouse wood table surrounded by modern leather and ladder–back chairs. Ma Maison provides full services– business centre, internet, housekeeping, laundry, room service and limousine.

NORFOLK HOTEL

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THE AU CO, BHAYA CRUISES

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$$ Tel: 04 3933 4545 www.aucocruises.com The Au Co offers the first and only continuous three-day voyages in the Gulf of Tonkin. The first-class twin vessels feature state of the art design, each of them containing 32 spacious and luxury cabins, all with private balconies. The onboard cuisine follows a traditional concept and incorporates the five natural elements, with a relaxing jacuzzi and spa treatments and numerous exciting en-route activities.

WINDSOR PLAZA

HCMC DELUXE CONTINENTAL

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$$$ 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental–saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the most classic of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

HCMC MID-RANGE

HOTEL IBIS SAIGON SOUTH

$$ 73 Hoang Van Thai, Phu My Hung, Tan Phu, Q7. Tel: 5410 1111 H7177-RE@accor.com www.ibishotel.com The first International three star hotel in Saigon, Ibis Hotel is within walking distance of global corporate offices, FV hospital, other medical centers and shopping malls. It features 140 stylishly designed rooms with timber floors, complimentary Wi-Fi internet access, a restaurant, bar and three meeting rooms. A free return Ibis scheduled shuttle bus is available from the hotel to major corporate offices as well as into the city center.

The open restaurant serves a variety of pasta, grilled food and a touch of Asian cuisine prepared in front of you as you eat. There is something for everyone at affordable prices. There is also an option to create your own recipe from the items listed on the menu.

Ibis Saigon South is located in front of Saigon Exhibition and Convention Centre (SECC) and is 15 minutes from the city centre.

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$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3822 4479 www.novotel.com Novotel Saigon Centre features 247 contemporary rooms, an international buffet restaurant – The Square, a lobby lounge, a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including swimming pool, fitness, sauna and spa. With five meeting rooms and over 400m2 of space that can accommodate up to 350 persons, Novotel Saigon Centre provides expert support teams and facilities that will ensure successful business meetings and events.

KIM DO ROYAL CITY HOTEL

RAMANA HOTEL

$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid–range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

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$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Definitely the hotel with the most – its own shopping hub (including a bank), the city’s second biggest discotheque, several restaurants, a sauna, health club and business facilities, and superb panoramic views over the city when you take time off from all the other activities and make it back to your room.

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$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3999 8888, www.starcitysaigon.vn A brand new hotel located near Tan Son Nhat International Airport with 185 guest rooms each with city views and comfortably designed outdoor swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, restaurant, bars and meeting rooms that cater to 400 people.

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$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is the ultimate in French lifestyle, comfort and convenience.

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon caters to upscale business and leisure travellers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 info@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Located minutes away from famous landmarks, shops, restaurants and international companies, Norfolk Hotel is a good choice for buisness and leisure travellers. Recently renovated the sleek new design is reflected in the lobby space and in their ground floor bar and steakhouse, Corso.

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AIR ASIA www.airasia.com

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$$$$ Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Intercontinental Asiana Saigon is an exciting destination in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Personalised services await guests in each of the 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a stylish Presidential Suite. The hotel offers signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LEGEND HOTEL BANYAN TREE LANG CO To mark the opening of Banyan Tree’s first foray into the Vietnamese market, the 280-hectare integrated resort is offering some introductory rates for local residents, to go along with a three-kilometer beach and 18 hole, par 71 championship golf course designed by former British and US Open winner Sir Nick Faldo. This jumping-off point to some of the most remarkable splendors of Central Vietnam also features an award-winning spa and panoramic views of the East Sea — VND5,145,000++ for Lagoon Pool Villa, VND6,615,000++ for Beach Pool Villa. www.banyantree.com

AIRLINES

regarded Chinese restaurants in the city.

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club. The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2km from the city centre and 3km from the airport.

SABENA HOTEL

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$$$ R3–60 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 1000, www.sabena.vn Located on a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the brand–new rooms at Sabena are equipped with all the latest in–room technology perfect for making your room a combined office and home away from home. A good choice for anyone seeking accommodation away from downtown Saigon.

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$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5914 www.kimdohotel.com You’ll never have trouble finding your way back here at night – perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the exterior is brightly lit and the interior follows suit. A quality venue where no amenities are lacking – we’re talking executive Jacuzzis here. Use internet bookings to slash the cost of your room.

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

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THAO DIEN VILLAGE

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$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining and spacious gardens on the bank of the Saigon River. Located in Thao Dien Village, also has a number of restaurants on hand including an Italian, Thai and Japanese.

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, P8, Phu Nhuan Tel: 8625 69966 www.alcovehotel.com.vn Opening their doors in July 2012, The Alcove is located just off Nguyen Van Troi , the thoroughfare connecting Tan

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ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTURES Soc Son Tel: 0164 3876 594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 06 1366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

JUNGLE BEACH Nha Trang Tel: 05 8362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

LA VIE VU LINH Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

MANGO BAY

destination Son Nhat International Airport to the city centre. Nestled in a charming and quiet neighbourhood, and in keeping with their name, The Alcove Library Hotel offers a sanctuary of deluxe accommodation, architectural elegance and timeless style.

The hotel has an extensive library that offers a wide variety of fiction and nonfiction books for guests to borrow during their stay and guests can eat in the fifth floor restaurant or enjoy the outdoor terrace overlooking neighbouring rooftops.

HCMC BUDGET CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

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$ 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3, Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn Though possessing only five rooms, Cam Ly’s hotel section comes very reasonably priced. A double room costs under VND400,000 per night while a large double room and a twin room are both priced at under VND700,000. With 24-hour security,

BIKE RENTALS

MEKONG LODGE An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

MIA NHA TRANG

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 05 8372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

$$

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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CHI’S CAFÉ 40/27 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/month.

Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter.

NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pick-up.

SAIGON MOTORBIKE 203 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat.

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals. Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

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DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: 8373 699 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA $ 171A Co Bac, Q1, Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

HONG HOA $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 1915 It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked–away little venue is on a par with anything else in the area – attractive, comfortable, friendly and more. Plus there is free Internet access.

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Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com

Ha Giang Tel: 0219 38 33 3565 www.panhou-village.com

DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi–Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street–level mayhem of the backpacker area.

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Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 07 7398 1693 www.mangobayphuquoc.com

PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT

all rooms come with cable television and ADSL Internet access. For cleanliness, comfort and safety, Cam Ly is one of the best no-frills options in the city. See our Business listings for an overview of Cam Ly’s studio apartments.

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: 3827 4648 Take advantage of the free WiFi offered in every room at this venue where you’ll be impressed with the low prices, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few minutes from the street–level mayhem of the Backpackers’ area.

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HOI AN & DA NANG CUA DAI

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family–run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air–conditioned rooms and amiable staff.

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: 0511 3961 800 www.danangbeachresort.com.vn This resort, 20 minutes away from the airport in Danang, comprises six areas of villas with beachfront, golf and mountain views, a 33–floor twin tower, three five–star hotels, a convention and commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village.

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FURAMA RESORT & SPA $$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the CREDIT

HUY HOANG 1

$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 0511 398 1234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com Located 15 minutes by car from Da Nang International Airport, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is situated on a stretch of beach with a view of the ocean and the Marble Mountains. Has 200 guestrooms featuring modern designs with oversized balconies and floor to ceiling windows. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private Ocean Villas, each with a private pool.

INTERCONTINENTAL DANANG SUN PENINSULA RESORT $$$$ Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang Tel: 0511 393 8888, info@icdanang.com www.intercontinental.com/danang With its own private bay on the Son Tra Peninsula, the Bill Bensley-designed InterContinental Danang is nestled within one of the region’s most exquisite locations. All 197 of the resort’s rooms, suites and beachfront villas are designed to take full advantage of their location and panoramic South China Sea views.

Large terraces and shuttered windows elevate private living spaces that draw in the surrounding jungle and crystal bay, and add depth to the already large rooms that start from 70sqm.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

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$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, if you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional–looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is an endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

MERCURE DANANG

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$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: 0511 379 7777 www.mercure-danang.com Located on Green Island in the heart of Da Nang city, the Mercure Danang is only 10 minutes from the International Airport.

Consisting of 272 modern and stylish rooms reflecting local Vietnamese culture, all rooms feature ocean or mountain views. The hotel offers all day dining at their brasserie as well as a Chinese restaurant and lobby bar and lounge.

Conference facilities are available as is a private spa, treatment rooms, tennis court and fitness centre. The hotel offers complimentary shuttle to the city centre and Danang Beach.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000, www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, The Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT

Cua Dai Beach, Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels.asia Pull up some (private) beach and relax at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

HUE & QUANG BINH ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: 0543 695800 www.angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage with views of the

shimmering East Sea. Providing a complete and elaborate vacation experience, from exceptional accommodation and entertaining activities to excellent dining options, the property is conceptualised in tribute to the rich culture and heritage of Vietnam. Traditional Vietnamese aesthetic and design elements can be found throughout the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: 0543 695888 www.banyantree.com/en/lang_co Built on a unique crescent bay offering privacy and unparalleled exclusivity, Banyan Tree Lang Co is the most luxurious edition of the resort and hotel collection in the Laguna Lang Co complex. Designed and conceptualised to attract the wellheeled and knowledgeable traveller, the five-star, all-pool villa resort is a destination in itself. Reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods, the main buildings and villas are built with integrated clay-tiled pitched roofs, open courtyards and wood rafter ceilings in the style of the traditional houses of Hue.

HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

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$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6567 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa, this is the cheapest European–style place in town. Has bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial–hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high–rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la–residence–hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark–stained wood furnishings, this is

traditional art deco Indochine at its best.

Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub–VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

RUSTIC CHAY LAP

$ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh www.chaylap.org Situated on a peanut and maize farm on the doorstep of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge and farm offers homestay-style accommodation in the middle of a rural, ethnic minority Vietnamese environment. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking, caving and chilling out in the shadow of some of the most spectacular limestone karst scenery that this country has to offer.

Booking needs to be made through tour operators - email chaylap@gmail.com for details or check out the website.

SUN SPA RESORT

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason–anamandara– nhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang), Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded – almost deserted –

promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism.

The owners arrange pick–up from Nha Trang and the down–to–earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633, www.mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary of rest and relaxation is set on its own private beach. Based on eco-friendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs instead of tiles or differing roof coverings, enhancing the environmental appeal. The 50-seaview rooms are split between luxurious villas and condominiums that blend contemporary living with slight Indochina influences.

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NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 625 6900 rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com This attractive four-star hotel is centrally located with 154 guestrooms, each with terrace and sea view, offering a pool, spa and restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. One of the best run hotels in town.

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SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY CREDIT

$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six–Senses–Hideaway– Ninh–Van–Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top–drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at around VND15 million for a beach pool villa.

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$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu Tel: 058 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front hotel with 284 sea view rooms and suites, complimented by six restaurants and bars. The hotel also has a Sheraton Club Lounge with spectacular views, Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms,

LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG

$$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 511 3958 888 www.lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is family-friendly resort.

The design of the guest rooms and amenities, quality of the food, ambience of the bar and restaurant and the dedication of service of the resort’s staff has all been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion.

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LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life–resorts.com Recently refurbished, this award–winning leafy and well-appointed resort is located

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an outdoor swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool area, a fitness centre, a kid’s club, a business centre and a cooking school. For great view of the city, head up on high to the rooftop bar.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL & SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn With various awards, including being listed in the World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009 by Expedia, and in view of the current facilities, location and its anticipated strong branding and service from the heart, Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa is ideal for the medium to higher end individual leisure and corporate travellers.

All rooms have a view of the sea.

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WHALE ISLAND RESORT

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501, www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. On-site seafood restaurant and bar.

WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT & SPA

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$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 058 3670 670, www.whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean and a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants including one where you can pick fresh seafood and then have it cooked, a swimming pool and a spa.

Service is both professional and friendly.

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3743 777, www.allezboo.com This resort offers exotic and luxurious accommodation including two Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas and 55 spacious suites and deluxe rooms. Fresh seafood, Vietnamese specialities, Thai food and international cuisine are served in their many dining areas. The resort also offers outdoor activities including kitesurfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322, www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its new luxury makeover includes a

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large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground.

Another new addition is an Irish bar.

COCO BEACH

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$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7111, www.cocobeach.net The place that put Phan Thiet on the map is still one of the best options for a stay, with charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant. Coco Beach is continues to be run by the European management team that began it all in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

DU PARC PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES & GOLF RESORT

$$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet, Tel: 062 3822 393 www.phanthietresorts.com This resort offers access to a first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo. Great food and service is offered in this 123–room escape destination featuring private balconies with ocean or golf view.

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com One of the few all–villa luxury boutique resorts in Vietnam, Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four–hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country.

It’s definitely one of the most exclusive.

SHADES APARTMENTS

$$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 374 3237, www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach with fully equipped and modern units.

Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and good dining options.

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VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT & SPA

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SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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VILLA ARIA MUI NE

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$$$ 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660, www.villaariamuine.com The newest boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Villa Aria Mui Ne provides warm service with only 22 spacious guestrooms and one suite. Using only natural amenities in every room for a luxury experience, the resort includes a nice pool overlooking the beachfront, an alfresco dining lounge serving authentic Phan Thiet cuisine and more.

around (although Wi-Fi is available).

Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up tasty, home-cooked Vietnamese food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

proudly along the tree–lined seafront and has added modern amenities to its spacious rooms, along with a large restaurant, first–floor bar, fitness centre and business facilities.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT & SPA

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow–style resort which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid– back and simple. And cheap.

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: 062 384 7440/2 www.miamuine.com Set on one acre of manicured lawns and lush gardens, this luxurious haven of rest and tranquillity offers four different accommodation types, all featuring en suite bathrooms, cable TV, IDD telephone, safe box and air conditioning. Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows looking out to the South China Sea. The resort’s Xuan Day spa offers a selection of therapeutic body treatments while the beachfront Sandals restaurant serves a blend of dishes from the Mediterranean and Pacific Rim.

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

located just before you reach the main stretch of resorts in Mui Ne.

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: 062 381 3000 www.victoriahotels.asia Part of the Victoria chain which has properties in Vietnam and Cambodia, this high–end resort with thatched–roof bungalows and family villas is set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a top–end seafood restaurant, and a spa, beauty salon and Jacuzzi right on the private beach. An excellent place to stay

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: 077 398 0998 www.beachclubvietnam.com A small and popular guesthouse located 15 minutes south of the airport offering simple yet well-appointed accommodation with rooms at VND630,000 and bungalows at VND840,000 per night. Features a beachside restaurant and includes free WIFI. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

BO RESORT

$$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 6142 www.boresort.com, booking@boresort.com Conceived and operated by a French– Vietnamese couple, BO Resort lies on the west of Phu Quoc and is quiet, low–key and secluded. An eco–lodge concept, there are no televisions or air–con and future plans include hot water by solar panels. 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay. Bathrooms are tropical, open–air style. The beachside restaurant is well–known and includes traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on fresh seafood and products, prepared with an unmistakable classic ‘French touch.’

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla–resort.com Open since November 2008, this Italian-run, 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first–class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant. One of the few top-end properties on Phu Quoc.

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LA VERANDA

$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773982988, contact@laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery branded La Veranda has beautifully– designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

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MANGO BAY

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones

SAPA CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE

$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas–eco–lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco–cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

VICTORIA SAPA

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522, www.victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from VND2.8 million per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO BINH AN VILLAGE

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$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: 064 335 1553 www.binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this glamorous, Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has a calming and elegant boutique atmosphere. Has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining and a bar strategically located on the cliff to watch the sunset.

$$$$ Tel: 064 378 1525 info@hotramresort.com www.hotramresort.com Located along the coastal road in Ba Ria– Vung Tau Province, this attractive, Hoi Anstyled property is the ideal getaway from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City.

The resort is highlighted by a selection of 63 uniquely designed Indochine bungalows and villas that promise a local experience with international–standard accommodation. Also has an excellent spa facility and two swimming pools.

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HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Tel: 064 3781 631 www.sanctuary.com.vn Just 45 minutes north of Vung Tau, the classical but contemporary elegance and refined atmosphere of this leafy villa complex provides guests with a home away from home. Perfect for renting with groups of friends or as an extended family, the spacious villas each come with their own pool and many have direct access to the beach. Facilities include tennis courts, water sports, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

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REX HOTEL

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$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 2135 www.rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge. Rooms start at VND900,000.

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel : 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao/ The first five-star resort on the Con Dao archipelago, this unique property pays homage to the remoteness of its natural environment by being deliberately sandwiched between the sea, beach, mangrove and mountains behind. 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay here, each with an unencumbered view of the sea.

Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage.

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TRAVEL SERVICES ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS

7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia Pacific. Join now and save.

ASIANATRAVEL MATE CO. LTD

113C Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 6678 92-94-96 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 0615 www.asianatravelmate.com An active supporter of the Loreto Program, AsianaTravel Mate Co. Ltd. is a tourist information company that offers a wide range of customised itineraries, tour packages, and hotel & cruise reservations throughout Indochina, as well as daily departure tours in Saigon, Hue, Hanoi, known as Deluxe Group Tours. The company also operates three deluxe cruises in Ha Long Bay.

AZA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL

S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7 Tel: 5410 5523, www.azaadventuretours.com AZA Adventure Tours and Travel specialises in adventure and education tourism, providing consulting and custom travel arrangements and packages to the Philippines and other countries in Asia. AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level.

COME & GO VIETNAM

195/14, D1, Q Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 3281 hello@comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, responsive British–run tour operator offering high–quality, innovative tailor made tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets.

Come & Go pride themselves on originality so if you’re tired of the usual Vietnam products, they’re definitely worth a try. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

DALAT EASY RIDER

70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat vndalateasyrider@yahoo.com www.dalat–easyrider.com.vn Bespoke motorbike tours from the original Easy Rider group based in Dalat. With over 70 guides, all speaking English, tourists can either ride on the back of a bike with their guide or can hire their own bikes. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands and you can even venture as far as Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Email for further information. Note: insurance is not included. Price is generally VND800,000 to VND1 million per day depending on how far you travel.

EXOTISSIMO

64 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 2911 dongdu@exotissimo.com SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2761 - Ext 113 pmh@exotissimo.com 41 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3 5194 111 - Ext 17 I anphu@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com Everything you could wish for under one roof from this professional agency. An

upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, which aims to bring you up close to the cultures of the area through personalised tours across the region, which may include insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. Excellent service.

Travel desks at Sofitel Plaza Saigon and New World Hotel open from 7.30am to 9pm every day.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 7744 info@flightravelco.com www.flightravelco.com Flight travel is an associated partner of Hogg Robinson Group (HRG) in Vietnam providing a range of travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLUB PHU QUOC

60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Tel: 0939 402 872 www.flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff that speak English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and Vietnamese. Established in 2009, Flipper Diving Club offers international scuba diving insurance for all customers and each instructor carries additional scuba diving insurance.

Contact them now to learn more about diving in Phu Quoc.

FLY VIETNAM

www.flyvietnam.com booking@flyvietnam.com An online air ticket reservation and

BUDGET RENT–A–CAR

www.budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best–known car rental companies. With a kiosk at the airport and drivers trained in a range of driving, cultural and language skills, mileage– free car hire starts at VND1.2 million.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY

81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9170 travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips, customises leisure and corporate travel plans around the world and in Vietnam while offering a selected range of small group tours.

Viet Nam

Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3830 939 www.condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island on the edge of the main town, this beachfront resort is a good option thanks to its reasonable pricing and coconut-shaded sand. Has the standard range of mod cons.

GRAND HOTEL

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$$$ 2 Nguyen Du, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 6888 www.grand.oscvn.com This four-star iconic property stands

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CARAVELLE HOTEL

Sundays in January, Restaurant Nineteen hosts a meaty morning brunch the likes of which the city has never seen. Choose between barbeque pork ribs, chicken galantine, beef wellington, duck liver, oven-roasted duck breast with orange sauce, lamb shoulder in curry cream, whole roasted suckling pig and panseared lobster — or have them all. Unlimited margaritas, martinis and house wine will help with the digestion — VND1,144,000++ per person with one flute of Taittinger Champagne, VND1,834,000++ with Taittinger free flow.

Jan. 19 to Jan. 25 is Éclair and Choux Week in the Lobby Lounge, commemorated with seven varieties of delicious puff pastry, ranging from pistachio cream with stewed cherries and roasted hazelnuts, to lemon curd with flamed meringues and chocolate shavings, to vanilla cream with strawberries and icing sugar!

— VND180,000++ per portion, VND280,000 with Ronnefeldt tea or Lavazza coffee, VND380,000 with a flute of Taittinger. www.caravellehotel.com NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

Novotel Nha Trang will host a traditional Russian Christmas Gala buffet dinner on Jan. 6.

It’s a Russian feast without the stuffy connotations of Catholic Christmas, so of course there’s a DJ — VND735,000++ per person.

Also in the New Year, there’s

a special buy-three-get-onefree buffet dinner deal at The Square restaurant. The Square restaurant serves six different delicious themed buffets, with Asian on Monday, International on Tuesday, Thai on Wednesday, traditional Vietnamese on Thursday, Italian on Friday and seafood on the weekend — VND420.000++ per person. www.novotel-nhatrang.com

LEGEND HOTEL

Oggi Steak & Bar brings in a new four-course western set dinner for January, which consists of double beef consommé, lobster salad, seared scallops or roasted veal marinated with herbs de provence, and dark chocolate cheesecake —VND880,000++ per person includes free flow of selected wines, beer, cocktails, soft drinks, coffee and tea. www.legendsaigon.com THE DECK

After years of superb dining exploits, The Deck is turning its attention to executive chef Cao Lam Gia’s speciality — lobster.

This January he will be cooking his own brand of excellent lobster dishes, right on the banks of the Saigon River. www.thedecksaigon.com MEKONG MERCHANT

Mekong Merchant isn’t wasting any time resting on its Christmas and New Year’s laurels. Planning ahead, they’re offering a Tet canapés

See more at wordhcmc.com home delivery service, in tartine, bruschetta, quiche, mini pizza and MMBistro special varieties. www.mmbsaigon.com HOTEL EQUATORIAL

Orientica restaurant’s executive sous chef Wong Yow Phun is masterminding an array of special offerings for Tet, to be presented from Jan. 26 and lasting through to Feb. 9 with a special blend of set menus and a la carte offerings, conveying various blessings on tables of 10. Spring and Happiness clocks in at VND5,628,000++ per table, Everlasting Prosperity will run the ambitious VND6,258,000++ per table, or go for it all with the Wealth and Fortune table — a formidable VND11,928,000++.

Orientica also runs a Yee Sang Celebration through to Feb. 24, with mounds of auspicious ingredients tossed as high as possible to bring about prosperity and abundance for the Lunar New Year. Salmon, Australian abalone, fresh tuna and shark’s fin will all make an appearance, mixed with a variety of vegetables that each has its significance in the Yee Sang — VND150,000++ per person.

If you’re looking for flavour relief a bit sooner, Chit Chat @ The Café is running a north-tosouth bounty through the month of January. It’s exploration is in the form of a comprehensive Vietnamese cuisine buffet — VND678,000++ per person. www.equatorial.com

travel agent in Vietnam providing information, pricing, availability, and booking facilities for domestic and international air travel, railway reservation, hotel bookings, holiday packages, buses, and car rentals. Also organises travel insurance, coach tours and visas.

KIM TRAVEL

270 De Tham, Q1 One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering day tours, short breaks and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne Tel: 0908 400 108 www.mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes with national and international guidelines for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation. Group rates and corporate event packages are also available.

ONE WORLD

28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 A local inbound tour operator specialising in boutique tours around Vietnam. We provide economy, luxury, packages and Taylor–made tours, including flexibility to allow our customers to explore at their pace and will.

OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS

BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 092 CAFES 094 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 096 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 097 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 098 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 098 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 105 RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 106

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 2 LAM SON

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am.

Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

destination

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings RESTAURANTS SOUTHEAST ASIAN 106 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 107 COLUMNS FOOD PROMOS 108

ALIBI

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RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

ALLEZ BOO

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 195 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 6291 5424 info@allezboo.com 24 hours Summery, Ibiza-style beats rock through

TERRAVERDE

91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3984 4754 info@terraverdetravel.com If cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Halong Bay is your kind of thing, then this company’s range of customised cultural and soft adventure tours might suit. It caters to travellers interested in making a positive impact on the lives of the people whose regions they visit.

TU TRANG TRAVEL

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 071 3752 436 www.tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Tu Trang Travel offers services such as trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh, and between Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc. Email: sales@ tutrangtravel.com.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

www.vietnamvespaadventure.com From the people behind Zoom Café, Vietnam Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English speaking tour leaders lead the way, contact shawn@vietnamvespaadventure.com for more details.

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out & about this recently refurbished Backpackers’ Area icon, mixing in with the bamboostyle décor, deep red walls and ethnic minority upholstery and place settings.

Serving a mixture of Thai and western cuisine (from VND80,000 to VND140,000 a dish), the late-night party atmosphere is bolstered by the first-floor DJ pumping out tunes into the early hours.

AMERICA DISCOTHEQUE

TECHNO / HIP HOP Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 9pm to late Once the largest nightclub in Vietnam, this 2000-capacity venue is located in the An Dong Plaza complex in District 5. Pumping out 30,000 watts of sound, this club also possesses one of the loudest nightclub sound systems in the city. A popular nightspot for the local and Viet Kieu crowd, with resident and guest DJs playing thumping dance and techno tunes and a separate room for those who prefer hip hop and R&B. Expect to pay the usual nightclub prices for drinks, but look out for the regular specials on bottles of spirits.

APOCALYPSE NOW

MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music. Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

BIA TUOI 33

BIA HOI 102 Bui Vien, Q1 4pm to late The beers are cheap and the plastic seats are perpetually packed at this Bui Vien institution, which attracts all types of backpackers, expats and Vietnamese to its street-side chaos. No frills are present here, but when you’re dealing in VND7,000 to VND12,000 beer offerings you don’t need much else. Consider “Grandma’s” — socalled for the older woman in charge — your front row seat to the spectacle of a typical Bui Vien night.

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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out & about BLANCHY’S TASH

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 11am to 3am Located in a three-storey building in the centre of downtown Saigon – and named after French colonial-era mayor Rue Paul Blanchy — this popular high-end restobar pulls in both diners and latenight revellers thanks to its inventive Japanese-Peruvian fusion menu (designed by former Nobu chef Martin Brito), late opening hours and regular DJ sets.

Check out their sashimi and tartares.

Mouthwateringly good.

BLUE GECKO

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com 9.30am to 1am Swathed in greys, cream and dull brown, this bar and café has the feel of an underground-style watering hole, the type you may find in London or New York.

Run by a well-known, locally based DJ, the decks and mixing board take centre stage here, with a range of turntablists taking to the stand at night. Also a good place to hang out during the day — the Mediterranean-influenced food menu includes crostini, salads, pastas and a good selection of breakfast fare. Does takeaway Lavazza coffee.

BOSTON SPORTS BAR

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR / SPORT 28/4 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 6656 6338 bostonpizzavn@gmail.com 24 hours This inviting, all-hours-god-sends multistorey restobar with its rectangular, bare-brick bar area is the only place in the Backpackers’ District showing all the live sport. And here we certainly mean the word ALL. TV screens are everywhere. Also in the mix is the coldest aircon in town, reasonable (although slightly pricey) pub food and friendly female staff.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555, www.sofitel.com 7am to 1am Composed of The Conservatory, a daylight-drenched loft area, The Salon, a plush living room with baroque and exotic accents, The Cigar Room and The Library, with its sleek champagne tasting counter, the Boudoir Lounge is a haven for executives and lounge adepts alike.

Live International DJs perform Fridays and Saturdays. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and evening bouchées.

CHILL SKYBAR HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

98 | Word January 2013

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AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 3483 www.bluegeckosaigon.com 4.30pm to midnight Although run by a Vietnamese couple, this boozy, outback-themed sports pub just off the main drag is quintessentially Australian. The down-to-earth atmosphere is added to by a great pool table, darts and all the live sports, with a particular focus (not surprisingly) on Aussie Rules and Rugby. Also shows the Premier League. One of the longest running watering holes in town.

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LOUNGE RESTOBAR & TERRACE Floor 26 & 27, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 5630 www.chillsaigon.com 5.30pm to 2am The city’s most towering view is only getting better, as Chill is building a VIP terrace to complement the already magnificent outdoor area, made all the more dramatic over the lip of a martini-

glass encased cocktail. Transplanted ideas of clean lines and natural materials suffuse the inside with the classy sensibilities of the Vietnamese-Danish ownership, a solid foundation for the comfortable beat of the five DJs playing on any given night. 100+ wines range from VND1 million to VND75 million, complementing the upscale western/French menu occasionally supplemented with some of the Danish ownership’s home specialities.

CLOUD 9

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LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0907 502951 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet. It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

CRAZY BUFFALO

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 212 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 3836 9946 www.crazybuffalosaigon.com 24 hours This hard-to-miss Backpackers’ Area restobar, terrace and nightclub declares itself loud and bold with its massive, snorting buffalo signage, a symbol that has undoubtedly appeared in thousands of photos of Saigon. A daytime happy hour, pizza, pasta, Asian cuisine and international mains make up the mix, with the beats pumping on the first floor until late.

DECIBEL LOUNGE

ECLECTIC LOUNGE BAR 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 6271 0115 www.decibel.vn 7am to 12am An eclectic atmosphere that combines many different flavours, deciBel is open to anyone looking for something different.

Situated in the centre of Saigon in an old house, the lounge holds a range of music and artistic events with friendly service and reasonable prices. Food is also available as well as a roster of local and international artists playing live acoustic music and spinning away on the decks. Cocktail happy hour is from 5pm until 7pm every day and Wednesday is international movie night.

DON DE DIEU

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WINE BAR 49/1 Hoang Du Khuong, Q10 Tel: 3979 8102 www.dondedieu.com.vn 10am to 10pm Situated across a hip District 10 alley from Carpenter Café, Don De Dieu relies on the same wooden aesthetic but shapes it differently into an arched wine barrel-ceilinged ground floor and four funky-muraled upstairs dining areas. The wines are the focus, but Belgian, Russian and German beer offerings round out a French-intensive dining menu.

DUC VUONG HOTEL

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GARDEN TERRACE 8th Floor, 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6991 www.ducvuonghotel.com 6.30am to midnight If you’re looking to escape the fire-eaters and sunglass-sellers of street level Bui Vien, take the elevator of this quirky hotel up to the eighth floor and the decent view that awaits. The terrace has a rustic feel, with wooden chairs, cheap beer and a tree-planted square in the corner. Just below on the seventh floor, a recently renovated restaurant serves European, Japanese and local cuisine.

FUSE

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com 7pm to late One of the smaller nightclubs to grace Saigon, the neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese set. Blaring techno and dance music envelopes the dance floor as large fruit platters and bottles of whiskey and cognac are consumed. A lack of space means this place gets packed easily, especially on the weekends, so look to arrive relatively early to grab a table. Even better, book in advance.

GO2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 3836 9575 24 hours A corner location, retro, slightly grungy décor, banging indie and popular rock tunes downstairs, never ending drunkenness and late-night partying make Go2 one of the watering hole destinations in the Backpackers’ Area. Popular with tourists and expats searching for latenight drinking and dancing options, the food menu includes Thai, Vietnamese and western cuisine with mains costing between VND75,000 and VND110,000. DJs bang out the beats upstairs until late.

GOSSIP

HARD TECHNO 79 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3824 2525 8.30pm to 2.30am This Singaporean-run super club, located in the Dai Nam hotel, is just as popular with the locals as it is with the foreigners. A friendly, communal atmosphere and attentive service helps Gossip to stand out from its contemporaries. As expected, tinnitusinducing levels of techno and house music blare throughout the two-tiered club with a large, raised dancefloor that fills out instantly.

‘Dress to impress’ is the nature of the clientele here so don’t turn up in shorts and flip-flops. The entrance fee is VND120,000.

HIDEAWAY

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LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 40/15 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0902 799962 10.30am to late This place has a lot more going for it than just swings, which dangle mischievously from the ceiling. There’s also live music of all kinds from covers to flamenco, and a polished, fun-loving crowd that knows the way off main street Bui Vien. The food is also noteworthy, as it’s one of the best places in town for western breakfasts and Mexican. The back room is sealed off from the loudness of the main one, outfitted with comfortable couches and a wall-high, three-walled mural of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

BEERHALL 18 Bis/28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn 8am to midnight Set in the same building as the Czech Consulate and decorated in wood panelling and brass finishing, this enormous Czech-styled bierkeller popular with stout burghers from both the local and expatriate communities was the first microbrewery in town (1995) and remains one of the best. The excellent home–brewed Hoavener beer, which comes in dark, red or blonde, is served out of huge steins and is complemented by a food menu that mixes Vietnamese fare with Central European staples such as schnitzels, wurst and much more.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.vn 8am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the well known

Australian chain mixes hearty pub grub such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere thanks to the big screen TVs regularly showing various sporting events.

Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long bar space and grassy/patio outdoor terrace, drinks include a mainly new world wine list and various local and imported beers and spirits. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

ICE BLUE

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EXPAT BAR / DART 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 2664 3pm to 1am Despite its slightly run down veneer and smoky but lively atmosphere, Ice Blue remains a popular haunt for many of the city’s older expats as well as a not–so–regular crowd of tourists. Known for its amicable service and lively, beer-drinking ambience, this long-running waterhole is also famed for its darting prowess, with two well set-up dart boards claiming pride of place.

LA HABANA

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CUBAN/SPANISH 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am If it's mojitos and well-mixed cocktails you want, spiced up with nightly live music and a Latin atmosphere, La Habana is the place. Run by a Chinese-German couple, this attractive, long-running Cuban bar and restaurant is one of the few watering holes in the Thai Van Lung / Le Thanh Ton area to serve up a regular dose of all things live. Also has HB beer on tap, an excellent food menu and weekly salsa classes.

LAVISH

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices. However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

FRENCH / RESTOBAR 2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own.

Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

LE PUB

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the French-run

Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it.

But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here.

Occasional live music.

seating and good service to boot.

Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-die-for zesty beef roll-ups. Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

PACHARAN

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PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas.

Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene.

The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

MCSORLEY’S

PHATTY’S

LUSH

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IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4659 3pm to midnight weekdays, 10am to late weekends Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorley’s is an Irish bar with an interesting twist — it houses a beautifully backlit swimming pool. It’s home to an array of fun nights, from reggae parties to comedy nights to sporting events projected on the outdoor patio wall. The bar is fast becoming an indispensible District 2 hangout, with a comfortable vibe, decent eats, a nice happy hour and an ever-increasing collection of Irish swag.

MINH CHAU’S

BIA HOI 75 Bui Vien, Q1 4pm to late Right across from Bia Tuoi 33 you’ll find Minh Chau’s, a plastic chair bar with a bit more of an expat feel (owing to the hotel upstairs) and cheap Vietnamese spirits on the menu. You’ll pay the standard VND7,000 to VND12,000 for a beer, VND10,000 for a shot and VND20,000 for a mixed drink. Minh Chau, the lady running the establishment, has been on the Bui Vien scene since the very start, in 1995, and she gives it a different feel than the other street beer places — a bit more relaxed, a bit more homey.

MZ CLUB

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LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3925 5258 www.m-zing.com 6pm to late Live music every night of the week of the pop, jazz, rock and Latino cover variety makes this crafty cocktail bar a destination for the city’s 30+ Vietnamese and expat population. It’s a rather fitting location for tipping back a glass of one of the 100 wine vintages, as the glossy blue-lit surroundings hide the wrinkles of a haute couture crowd. The two lady leads of the MZ Band do a killer job at breathing some attitude into familiar pop tunes, while on Sundays a Cuban band is there to change up the flow over a selection of tapas dishes.

O BRIEN’S

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IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden

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AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beerguzzling but homely atmosphere. Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

PURPLE JADE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Purple Jade is a great place to catch up with friends or business partners or simply just to relax and enjoy great drinks. If you find yourself being overly particular about your choice of tipple, pull yourself together and ask the bartender for a cold beer with a shot of good liquor on the side.

QING

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WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION CUISINE 110 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar, this slither of a place mixes dark brown and maroon décor with bar-style seating and comfortable dining areas out front and at the back.

An extensive new and old world wine list is, of course, part of the offering, as is an awesome pan-Asian fusion menu boasting Asian tapas (from VND85,000), international fusion mains (from VND185,000) and gourmet, creatively topped pizzas. Has a highly rated massage parlour upstairs.

RUBY SOHO

LOUNGE BAR S52-1, Pham Van Nghi, Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 6039 www.rubysohosaigon.wordpress.com 10am to 1am A French-inspired spacious (owned by French animation designers), cozy lounge bar and restaurant with two levels offering a menu that includes a classic French rabbit dish, and western food with a French touch, plus a set lunch menu every day from 11am until 2pm for VND95,000. The happy hour on beers and cocktails is from 3pm until 7pm every day of the week.

January 2013 Word | 99

out & about SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

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IRISH BAR 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match.

Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home–style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

SHRI

LOUNGE RESTOBAR & TERRACE 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270– degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfort-spared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

SLATE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR 3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com 5pm to 1am Located opposite Centrepoint, Slate takes its name from the dark grey tiling covering the floor. Merging black and silver with turquoise, and with touches like semi-private sofa beds, the offerings here include over 30 martini cocktails, a barbecue menu and perhaps one of the most contemporary yet tasteful watering holes in town

SPOTTED COW

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INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7670 spottedcow@alfrescosgroup.com 11am to 12pm daily Part of the Al Fresco’s Group, the original Spotted Cow bar was on Hai Ba Trung

100 | Word January 2013

in Hanoi, a few doors down from the country’s first Al Fresco’s. Now revived and transformed into a full-on sports bar with Friesian black and white spots to match, this friendly watering hole has a good food menu to match – think pasta, pizza, burgers, baguettes and international comfort food mains. A range of happy hours and darts make up the mix.

THE DRUNKEN DUCK

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SPORT / SHOOTER BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3915 2853 4pm to late A shooter bar, with over 15 down–in– one cocktails on the menu boasting names like Aquackalypse Now and The Duckinator, this striking, subtly lit space has a downstairs pool table, a long wooden bar and an upstairs lounge with a large, pull-down projector screen.

The watering hole also shows live sport on the weekends courtesy of three flatscreen TVs. Try the shooter challenge and get a t-shirt and your name and time engraved on the wall. Also has a reasonable bar menu.

THE LIBRARY

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The Library recaptures the romance of a bygone era, offering a sophisticated all-day snack menu of exquisite delicacies devised by Executive Chef Rolando Manesco. From 2.30pm to 5pm, the Library’s nostalgic afternoon tea is served, comprising of an array of fresh-cut sandwiches, light bites and platters.

THI CAFE

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LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 2210 2929 6pm to late It’s a well-worn Saturday night expat route that starts at Thi Café, where the better funk and rock cover bands in the city can be seen from a dance floor that stretches well into the bar area. Upstairs is an underutilized lounge area, useful for escaping from the crowd when Adele or Jason Mraz is invoked once too often.

Overall a friendly scene, one where dancing next to someone often leads to conversation, and dancing on the bar-top doesn’t seem too out of place.

VASCO’S

TRYST LOUNGE

1st Floor, Gemadept Tower, 6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 1637, trystlounge@ddds.vn Daily, 7am to 12pm Specialising in French and Vietnamese cuisine cooked up by an experienced chef, Tryst Lounge serves up its tasty fare at all times of the day, making it a venue for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Complemented by healthy mixed juices, Illy coffee, creative cocktails and a good selection of wines at affordable prices, the space has a chilled atmosphere, and is great for hanging out both indoors and on the outdoor terrace. Has live acoustic and Latino music every weekend courtesy of well-known Cuban outfit Warapo.

T & R TAVERN

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DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1Tel: 3838 9839 6pm to late The lights come on at 6pm, but this notorious after hours spot only begins to pick up around 2am. It’s the end of many expat nights, not necessarily a good one for those who need to wake up in the morning. There’s a jam-packed iTunes window for wannabe DJs to tweak, and a sign underneath with an oft-ignored warning not to change songs in the middle, as “the stubborn will be call prostitute”. Go figure. Darts, a pool table and a tiny but raucous dance floor keep many a drinker occupied until the wee hours.

UNIVERSAL BAR

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LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 www.universalbarsaigon.com 10am to late Just up from Bui Vien’s street beer nexus is Universal, a live music spot with an outdoor seating area that lets you take in the action from a more comfortable perspective. We’re still dealing in mostly local spirits here, but respectable mouldings and a rotating cast of Filipino bands playing pop, top 40 and funk tunes bump prices up a notch. Upstairs is a reservable dance space.

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EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

A Veteran on the city’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s Bar and Lounge has a downstairs area situated in the open air in the popular Hai Ba Trung courtyard where cocktails and food are available. In contrast, the Blue Room Bar upstairs provides a more relaxing chill out area. Local and International DJs turn the tables from Thursday until Saturday, with live jazz on Wednesdays and the weekly, Thursday evening Ladies’ Night.

VELVET

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com 8.30pm to midnight You will be hard pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and uber trendy as Velvet. It’s of no wonder then that most of its clientele are exceptionally well-dressed socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. As a result this venue has carved itself a reputation as being the place to be and to be seen. Has a ladies night every Wednesday.

VIBE BILLARDS AND LOUNGE

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LOUNGE BAR / POOL HALL 102 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 3925 2599 10am to 1am A departure from the Saigon norm, this comfortably decorated, two-floor pool and snooker lounge mixes the attractions of a lustrous contemporary lounge bar with all the mod cons together with some of the best, imported pool tables available in town. Rental is by the hour, the seven pool tables costing around VND100,000 while the upstairs, full-size snooker table costs a touch more. A great place to go simply for a drink or to shoot pool with friends.

VINO

WINE BAR The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315, www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

CAFES AIRPLANE CAFE (CAFE MAY BAY)

OUTDOOR VIETNAMESE 117 Hong Ha, Tan Binh 7am to 10pm Located on the L-shaped road behind the Parkson Centre opposite the airport, a disused war-era passenger plane sets the scene for one the city’s most unique outdoor, plastic deck chair seating cafes.

So unique, in fact, that the wings act as shade from the sun, the wheels play home to a set of speakers, pot plants and fans hang from the metal casing of the aircraft while the tail has had a mini house built around it. Not surprisingly this museum of a place can get pretty crowded with families and kids awestruck by the novelty. It’s a decent cafe, too.

AN’S INTERIOR CAFE

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: 3823 3398 www.anscafe.com 7am to 11pm Located down alleyway 38, this sumptuous cafe just off Turtle Lake Circle is chintz, kitsch, bling and contemporary baroque decor all combined into an eye-catching one. That this place is so pleasing on the eye is added to by the silvery finished sofa seating and the iPad menus. Simply swipe the menu, zoom in or zoom out to choose from a contemporary range of coffees, teas, drinks and cocktails as well as Vietnamese and pan-western cuisine.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm Classic but eye-catching cream and greentiled decor runs through this cafe and deli-style restaurant housed in a colonial

building opposite Le Duan park. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix together with a Mediterranean and European cafe fare food menu that includes creative sandwiches and salads as well as kebabs, bagels, mains and mezzos, all at prices that go easy on the wallet. Good wine list and an excellent delivery service.

BOBBY BREWER’S

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 4090 www.bobbybrewers.com 6.30am to 11pm Now with eight locations in town, this slightly synthetic, Starbucks-style airport lounge of a place continues to knock out large and tasty espresso-based coffees together with a full range of smoothies, frappuccinos, juices and much more. Also has a fast-food style western food menu and an upstairs movie lounge showing the latest Hollywood hits with Vietnamese subtitles. Check their website for the movie schedule. Movie lounges are at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 and 400B Le Van Sy, Q3.

CACOPHONY

LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: 3932 2797 www.cacophonycafe.com 7.30am to 11pm Set in a villa in a colonial era courtyard alongside two other cafes dedicated to live music, the four floors of Cacophony are all devoted to the beauty of sound, but in a different way. Take level 3, for example. An acoustic guitar and sound system sits in one corner while the room is decorated like a Hanoi urban street corner, sign, lamppost, tree, doorways and all, with the seating on cushions on the floor. Has live music in the basement

out & about space five nights a week (not Monday and Tuesday). Also has a small food menu.

CENTRO

ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm The home of Caffe Vergnano, a recent makeover has added a bar area to this popular downtown cafe that serves up all things coffee - anything from ristrettos, macchiattos and lattes through to frappuccinis, mochas and spirit-infused coffees. Has a decent, mid-range Italian food menu to match that includes a large selection of panini, crostini, Italian rice dishes, salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat-based mains.

Has a second cafe at 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1.

out & about GLORIA JEAN’S

INTERNATIONAL 2BIS Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 www.gloriajeanscoffee.com/vn Wooden table seating mixed with more comfortable armchairs, subtle lighting and a serve-yourself buffet-style ordering counter are some of the key components of this coffee chain that succeeded in Australia where Starbucks failed. It’s not surprising really. The coffee is good as are its various renditions — cinamocha, chai tea chiller, Turkish Delight, mango chiller, Irish nut crème and more.

I’M YOURS

CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ BAR 213 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 0902 514757 Up and coming hole-in-the-wall coffee spot tucked away at the end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an extensive menu of Italian and Vietnamese coffee, as well as a variety of ice blended drinks, iced dolce green mint latte and Italian sodas. Flavours range from violet and lavender to frozen cookie freeze, all at very affordable prices.

MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0909 682927 9am to 10.30pm Tucked away just behind Nga Tu Phu Nhuan (The Phu Nhuan Intersection), this tiny gem of a rustic cafe combines nightly live music from 8.30pm with brown velvet upholstered sofa seating, treated dark wooden bench tables, cushions and striking wall decor.

So small is this venue that there is an upstairs mezzanine level reached by old Mekong Delta-style ladder stairs and when the music starts, the place not only fills to the open rafters but gets local bus-style cramped, too. A great find.

CITY GARDEN

KITA COFFEE

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

CAFE / CASUAL DINING 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 4860 citygarden.sg@gmail.com 7am to 10pm daily City Garden is somewhat of a rarity in this city. Built in a sea of bamboo, this cozy open-air, non air-con cafe offers a casual and Mediterranean-influenced menu with a creative range of reasonably priced Panini starting from VND50,000, Italian latte from VND40,000 and cocktails from VND55,000. Good music and comfortable seating round up the mix.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3508 7825 www.coffeebean.com.vn 7am to 11pm weekdays. 7.30am to 11.30pm weekends.

Great, large servings of coffee have to be the biggest pull of Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, an international chain of pleasant Starbucks-like work, meet and play cafes that is gradually spreading around the city. Now with five stores around town including 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 and further afield, comfortable seating and a contemporary but generic atmosphere are bolstered by a menu of cakes, cookies, sandwiches, pastries and more.

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistrostyle and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3821 2718 7am to 10pm An outdoor, well-aired terrace on a corner location is the centerpiece of this fairly new but ever-popular contemporary coffee shop just behind New World Hotel. Wickerchair seating, lightbox lighting, browns, blacks and creams make up the effect, with a menu selling both Vietnamese and espresso-based coffees, smoothies, cocktails, beers and a mix of well-priced pan-international and Vietnamese fare.

Live music on the weekends.

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com Plaudits galore as well as overseas TV coverage seem to have followed this spacious, first floor bistro-style cafe above the Art Arcade. Pitting 1930s French-style wooden decor against a spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior, a simple but creative cafe menu including sandwiches, salads, mains and cakes combines with reasonably priced coffee and good WiFi. Out back is a fashion store stocking modern, street-style brands, and an art gallery.

OPERATION: TEAROOM

335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 www.operationteavietnam.com 8am-8pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-5pm (Sat-Sun) A quiet and hidden little tearoom located on the ground floor of a yoga studio and not far from the city centre. A wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond marks the entrance to this quaint, open-air tearoom. Serving a line of high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and Vietnam, drinks start at VND35,000. Tea and teaware is also available for home use and as gifts.

PETITE NOTE

MUSIC CAFE 351/4A le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 3931 6312 8am to 11pm A jungle of a place with vines wrapping round stairwells, water features, pot plants and fairy lights at night, the aircon indoors transforms into a living room-style cafe obsessed by music — images of famous musicians and bands adorn the walls while the playlist is all American.

Live piano enters the fray on Saturday and Sunday nights while the menu is typical Vietnamese cafe style together with fast food and a good selection of ice cream.

SOHO COFFEE LOUNGE

Backpacker area location, this pleasant, mid-range venue is best known for its coffee — its lattes and cappuccinos are among the best available in town. Has both indoor and outdoor spaces as well as an additional dining area upstairs.

Although, the service is questionable.

TRUNG NGUYEN

50 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 3914 6911 www.trungnguyen.com.vn 6.30am to 10.30pm A downtown location of the everexpanding Trung Nguyen chain, this pleasant two-storey cafe opposite the Bitexco Tower mixes the creams, browns and comfort seating of this international homegrown brand with the Trung Nguyen menu — six types of mixed robusta and arabica Vietnamese-style coffees together with smoothies, juices and a small range of easy food options. The best place in town to taste locally produced coffee in all its tempting guises. Also has a store at 349 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 and numerous locations around town selling their coffee.

UP CAFE

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3845 2155 7am to 11pm Even the logo is shaped like an upside down house at this funky, spacious cafe close to the Moevenpick and the airport.

With whole sets of upside down tables and chairs, shelves, light fittings, mantlepieces and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up is one of the new brand of cafes spreading its wings across the city. Sells the typical range of cafe drinks and simple Vietnamese cuisine as well as cocktails, beer and more. A great place to chill.

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 92 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3915 3606 www.soho.vn What started out as a sleek but comfortable, black and white futuristic affair on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai has now spread to five cafes around town and a restaurant at 327 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. It’s a nice formula. Comfortable but not flamboyant sofa-style seating, suave lines, curves and surfaces, a non-smoking section, good WiFi and surprisingly cheap coffee, all making a place to work, eat, rest and play. Check out their website for a list of locations.

HU TIEU MI ANH KY

STELLA CAFFE

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm Despite its Italian restaurant veneer in a

MI NOODLE SOUP / WANTON 80 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3821 5518 6.30am to 12pm daily Take freshly made mi noodles, put them in a pork broth, add equally fresh wantons (hoanh thanh), maybe add in some dried hu tieu noodles and put banh quay (bread sticks) and a range of sauces on the side. Et voila, you have one of the best Chinese-style Vietnamese noodle soups in Saigon. The service may be a touch slow and you’ll have to get used to an on-the-street, back to basics atmosphere, but worth every penny (and bite).

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken

rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

MID-RANGE GOURMET’S DELIGHT ROAST KITCHEN

CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3521 8181 www.gourmetsdelight.com.vn 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Hong Kong casual dining restaurant Gourmet’s Delight Roast Kitchen is the first of its kind in Saigon and is now open to Cantonese cuisine lovers. Serving authentic barbeque and traditional Cantonese dishes in a laid-back atmosphere, Gourmet’s Delight Roast Kitchen claims to give guests a bona fide experience of Hong Kong food in the heart of Saigon. Check out the reasonably priced weekend buffet.

TAN HAI VAN

PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best– known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

Has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300 and is a good venue for events, business functions and family get-togethers.

YU CHU

1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The restaurant marries contemporary style, stylish surroundings and culinary spectacle with authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. As diners look on, the skillful chefs prepare hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within the open, impeccably designed show kitchen.

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID-RANGE LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3829 9263 11am to 10pm Mon-Thu. 11am to 11pm Fri-Sat. Closed from 2.30pm to 5.30pm daily and Sundays A quirky and sociable family-run, family-friendly French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, home cooked-style French cuisine for lunch and dinner. Le Bouchon de Saigon offers traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, croque madame and moules marinieres, as well as an array of European fusion dishes, and competivitely priced world wines.

LE JARDIN

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3825 8465 11am to 1.30pm, 6pm to 8.20pm. Closed Sundays Unpretentious, tasty but simple French fare in a relaxed garden setting around the back of the French Cultural Centre, Idecaf. Although don’t expect much

intimacy here – Le Jardin gets so crowded and the tables are so close together that private conversations are best had elsewhere. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is classically Gallic and it’s well-priced, too. Excellent, cheap house wine served by the carafe. Booking advised.

MINH KHA CAFÉ (K CAFÉ)

FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 0903 852956 (Paulo) kcafesaigon@yahoo.com A French-style bistro and restaurant all in one, this Backpacker Area mainstay attracts a regular clientele made up of Gallic expats, tourists and more. An excellent food menu – think all things French – backs up the long bar area perfect for sipping on a Ricard or a beer or two. Daily specials board and French sports live on TV.

MID TO TOP LA FOURCHETTE

PAN-FRENCH 9 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3829 8143 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm A cramped but comfortable, twostorey eatery popular with the French community. Classic fare from goats cheese salad through to seared magret duck, escargot, charcuterie plates and much more. Has a reasonable but mainly French wine list and a cosy, amiable atmosphere aided by the almost constant presence of the owner. Booking recommended.

TY COZ

CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming

MID TO TOP DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town. The classic dim sum menu is reliably appetizing – check out their Sunday morning dim sum brunch. Also has a selection of set menus, both private and semi-private dining rooms and a highly rated chef hailing from Hong Kong.

KABIN

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) www.shangpalace.com.vn Located just off the Central Business District, the dark intricate wooden tables and chairs of this well-respected Chinese restaurant contrast well with the white linen and deep red carpeting. Featuring over 200 dishes including over 50 kinds of dim sum for lunch, the cuisine here is prepared by chefs from Hong Kong.

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out & about

out & about space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town.

A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

TOP-END LA CAMARGUE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this long-running white tablecloth Saigon mainstay. Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

WINE CONNOISSEUR

LA CUISINE

BY DONALD BERGER

SPARKLING WITH PERSONALITY The traditional period of celebration, Tet, New Year’s and the Christmas season is the time for bubbly, no matter how bad all our economic woes. Be it champagne, cava, prosecco, sparkling wines made using the methode traditionnelle, sometimes you need to forget your troubles and get in some bubbles. And with family and friends playing such an important role during this period, there is no better time to hear the pop of that cork.

Around since the 18th century, what we know and love in bubbly — the lightness of taste, the heady feeling of happiness and the fineness of the bubbles — was once considered a flaw. It took the work of Dom Perignon, who is credited with discovering what became champagne, to give bubbly credibility. Prior to his development of new winemaking techniques, if your wine came with bubbles in it you’d have given it back.

A monk and cellar master at the Benedictine abbey in Hautvillers, Dom Perignon is also credited with the introduction of corks instead of wood, which were initially fastened to the bottles with hemp strings soaked in oil in order to keep the wines fresh and sparkling. He was also

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the first to use thicker glass in order to strengthen the bottles — prior to this bottles were prone to explode. However, it was his work on enhancing the tendency of champagne wines to retain their natural sugar in order to naturally induce secondary fermentation that was to be his biggest legacy. It kick-started the development of sparkling wines in the Champagne region of northeast France during the 19th century. Made from the grape varieties pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier, they continue to lead the way when it comes to all things with bubbles.

These days and under a range of names, sparkling wines are produced in almost every wineproducing country in the world.

Added to the complexity of the wine, there is now a choice of colours — white, red and rose — and a choice of sweetness from no dosage (the driest), Brut, dry, extra dry (a bit sweet), through to sec and demi sec. In Italy and Portugal, even the levels of the bubbles can be moderated, giving drinkers the choice between sparkling or lightly sparkling.

The oddest advancement has come in the UK. Thanks to global warming and a chalky terroir similar to that of Champagne, the British are producing award-

winning Champagne-styled wines in Southern England that can rival the best produced in France. Who would have thought?

CHARACTER So what kind of sparkling suits your personality? Here are some suggestions. Remember, though, drink what suits you, and drink what fits your budget. But make sure you drink bubbles.

Rich and Famous Dom Perignon, Salon, Krug Upwardly Mobile Taittinger, Moet & Chandon, Roederer British and Posh Bollinger Italian and Trendy Prosecco French Already Made It La Grande Dame, Cristal or Taittinger Compte de Champagne Australian Well-Off Jansz Brut or De Bortoli Brut The New Breed Coates & Seely, Nyetimber’s Backpacker Russian or Hungarian ‘Champagne’

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Recently relocated from its spot on Ngo Van Nam, this decidedly intimate, whitewashed, open-kitchened restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist.

With an extensive old and new world wine list — 75 at present count — and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its small size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

L’OLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555, www.sofitel.com 11.30am to 2pm, and 6pm to 10pm A traditional French restaurant offering Mediterranean cuisine that’s well known for its quarterly Michelin star promotions and award winning pastry team. Seating 80 people, the restaurant exudes a southern Gallic atmosphere with its warm-toned tiled veranda, pastel coloured walls and ficus trees.

TROIS GOURMANDS

CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: 3744 4585 6.30pm to 10pm. Closed Monday Deliberately off the radar, Trois Gourmands is the successor of the once legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh. Despite its new District 2 location in a colonial-style bungalow, the enigmatic Gils remains at the helm of this self-styled table d'hôte, and as of old he continues to serve up some of the best, classic Gallic fare in town.

As ever, the standard seven-course meal remains surprisingly cheap — presently at VND900,000 a head. The bread and even the cheese here are home made — quite a feat.

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN BUDGET

DELIVERY BEN’S STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare BURGER OI Tel: 3826 5426 www.burgeroi.com Burgers, fries, onion rings and side orders CHEZ GUIDO Tel: 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches DA VINCI’S Tel: 3943 4982 www.davincisvietnam.com Pizzas, pastas, subs and salads DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants KFC Tel: 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

THE PUNJABI

NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s self-made tandoor oven.

Excellent.

MID-RANGE BABA’S KITCHEN

NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3838 6661 www.babaskitchen.in 11am to 10.30pm Run by the enigmatic Robin of former Mumtaz fame, this recently opened, pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent.

From dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and the fiery vindaloo, the cuisine and hospitable service at this friendly eatery are already drawing in the customers. Good delivery service.

GANESH

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the threestorey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian

curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams. Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

INDUS INDIAN

INDIAN / MALAYSIAN 2G Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3521 0326 indusindiansaigon@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Just two doors away from nightspot icon Apocalypse Now, Indus Indian may not be the brightest in decor and ambience, but this is made up for by the tasty, hybrid Malay Indian fare. Run

by Chef Logu, the former cook to the Consulate General of India to Vietnam, expect a Halal menu including the likes of roti canai, murtabak and Malay-styled curries as well as more traditional Indian cuisine.

A Taste of Authenticity

LA TRATTORIA DEL BUON

11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 01634 991625 The trattoria in Italy is a casual meeting place for friends and family reflecting the passion for food of the owners and chef.

La Trattoria del Buon Vino is a new Italian restaurant in Saigon serving traditional Italian cuisine with a contemporary flair.

Il Buon Vino ‘The Good Wine’ on the 3rd floor is a beautiful lounge with an extensive wine list for relaxing after work or with a romantic glass of wine.

MUMTAZ

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the

pendolasco

LOTTERIA Tel: 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers SCOOZI Tel: 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 0903 863114 11am to 10pm Daily Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine as well as roti paratha, muttapa (murtabak) and both vegetarian and meatbased mains. Like its menu, the fan-cooled dining area is simplicity personified and the prices here are cheap, too, with all the dishes costing well under VND100,000.

VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants ZIPANG Tel: 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm.com for menu

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00

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out & about

North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

PEACHES

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S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999 10am to 11pm A Saigon South favourite, Peaches is located in the square area between Sky Garden 2 and Sky Garden 3. A spacious, attractive restobar with comfortable, lounge-style seating and a bar area, this watering hole mixes three beers on tap and a large screen for the live sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Including anything from Sri Lankan chicken curry through to beef rending, fish head curry and mutton vindaloo, the majority of the dishes cost under VND100,000. A perfect accompaniment to the beer.

TANDOOR

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bo b Dylan on the sound system.

Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

LAM’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 175 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 0308 The hole-in-the-wall frontage to this darling of the Backpacker’s Area dining scene is misleading. Lam’s serves up some genuinely tasty cuisine at rock bottom prices, especially when you hit the Vietnamese menu. The fare here is typical of local home cooking and the portions are big, too. Also does Tex-Mex, Thai, Singaporean and much more. The bar Chao Saigon (222/2 Bui Vien) opposite is owned and run by the same family

MARKET 39

Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Market 39 specialises in a boutique selection of appetisers, locally sourced and imported seafood, succulent steaks sizzling from the grill and hand-crafted noodles. Breads and pastries are prepared all day to ensure that every dish arrives on the table, fresh and full of flavour.

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.MID-RANGE

AL FRESCO’S

CASABLANCA MOROCCAN CUISINE +

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 8424 www.alfrescosgroup.com 8.30am to 11pm The downtown outlet of one of the country’s most successful restaurant chains, the multi-storey Al Fresco’s is international comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Famous for its jumbo ribs, also making the menu is TexMex, burgers, pizzas, salads and an assortment of international mains. Does an excellent delivery service. For a full list of restaurants check the website.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

BAHDJA

87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 11pm (Mon-Fri), 6pm to 11pm (Sat) Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

BERNIE’S BAR & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3822 1720 7.30am to 11pm A restobar that caters for any crowd and occasion. A fine dining room is located upstairs while the more casual bar area downstairs regularly shows live sport and hosts live music. The menu offers up a bevy of tasty western comfort food, a selection of Vietnamese fare and some of the best burgers in town.

BREAD & BUTTER

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 8452 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Closed Mondays.

A miniscule, two-floor restobar with a homely, slightly rustic feel that is the only place in town pushing the excellent, Hue-brewed Huda beer, always served cold.

A free book exchange, an everyone-knowsyour-name kind of atmosphere and mains from tuna steak and bangers and mash through to burgers, schnitzels, burritos and sarnies make up the formula here. Does a popular roast from 5.30pm every Sunday.

PAN-NORTH AFRICAN 58/9 Thanh Thai, Q10, Tel: 3862 8859 6pm to midnight. Closed Monday The first Moroccan restaurant in Saigon’s history has an intimate, cozy setting.

Couscous mains start at around VND100,000, while couscous with lamb, chicken and beef is just under VND200,000. Other Moroccan specialties such as slow–cooked lamb with almond and plums and roasted quail with sweet mrozia sauce are also on the menu.

Chef Riahi’s home–made pastries such as baklava and “gazelle horns” filled with almond paste are a rarity in the city.

DOMINO'S PIZZA

AMERICAN PIZZA DELIVERY 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7; The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn 10am to 10pm Despite its delivery-only reputation, Domino's in Vietnam is also doing a roaring trade with eat in diners thanks to its upstairs restaurant space. It's all very casual, of course, with the pizzas served out of the box, but with a range of combos starting at VND70,000 for a small pizza and coke, and now with thin crust available, the Domino's taste and experience has successfully been imported to Vietnam. Check their website for full menu and specials.

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner.

The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

Mogambo claims pride of place as one of the city’s longest running restobars. A well-known expat meeting spot, Savannahesque, bamboo décor and booth seating make up the mix together with a pleasant bar space. Dishes run from fajitas and burritos through to chicken cordon bleu, pies, the coronary bypass burger, salad, soup, gumbos and spare ribs.

PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 9838 www.pizza4ps.com 11.30am to 11pm, Tue-Sun Italian tradition meets Japanese ingenuity at Pizza 4P’s. This quirky fusion pizza parlor serves whacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza, calamari seaweed pizza and teriyaki chicken pizza, as well as more traditional types such as quattro formaggi, marinara and the old faithful, margherita pizza. Those with an adventurous streak can also order their pizza half and half. Pan-European and Asian soups, salads and a la carte mains make up the rest of the menu.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

SCOTT AND BINH'S

RUSSIAN 6 Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: 3829 4644 11am to late A larger than life-size Russian doll stands outside the entrance of this three-storey beautiful mismatch-of-styles, Russianrun venue. Filled with Eastern European imagery, red theatre-style curtains and Soviet propaganda art, the weekly changing Russian menu includes the likes of borsh, Russian salad, dumplings and cutlets, and can be adapted to your needs for party bookings. Located close to Basilico.

KITA RESTAURANT

SNAP CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistrostyle and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn 9am to 11pm daily Known for their American-styled burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex, the two-storey

SUBWAY

171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 4497 Ground Floor, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4849 121 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 3914 4118 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere.

Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

TRADERS

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NEW YORK/ INTERNATIONAL 76 Bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 3556 7am to midnight Located in the stock market area in between the canal and Ham Nghi, this funky, Wall Street-styled restobar takes the concept of its name and mixes it with an ever-changing set of deals on drinks and cuisine. With cash-obsessed, comic strip style American artwork lining the walls and a great, curved long

bar, the French-influenced American food menu includes pizza, hotdogs, salads, tartines and bracket kebabs.

Great concept and a good place for more than just a beer.

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 3897 vscooterguy@yahoo.com 7am to 2am daily Known for its excellent scooter-themed burgers, this Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a Vietnamese-style sidewalk drinking haunt by night. A corner location, friendly staff and American deli-style fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

Also serves Tex-Mex and Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a Vespa tour service from within the café.

MID TO TOP ALIBI

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INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark

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INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0948 901465 www.bizuhotel.com/main/pages/sb-food.php 4pm to 11pm. Closed Monday American chef/owner Scott Marquis offers a creative international menu that he likes to call “comfort food with a twist”. Serving all homemade soups, salads, sharing plates, burgers, sandwiches, pastas, main courses and desserts, the restaurant also boasts a full bar, ice cold beer and an international wine list to complement your meal. Also has a daily happy hour from 4pm to 7pm on ‘buy one get one free’ bottled beers and local spirits mixed drinks to complement the usual selection.

IMPERIAL

Saigon long-termer with its mural of Copenhagen taking up the length of one wall attracts a mix of Scandinavian and international punters, all enjoying the offerings from the well-stocked bar and the reasonably priced Danish-influenced pub grub menu. Dishes include Danishstyle fried pork and meatballs, frankfurt sausages, a range of grilled fare, burgers and much more. Has three screens for the live sport and seating areas out back and upstairs.

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 3519 4532 www.snap.com.vn 7.30am to 10.30pm (weekdays). 7.30am to 11.30pm (weekends) A huge banyan tree sits in the entrance of Snap Cafe, a rustic-themed airy cafe and retail space with thatched roofing, jungle-like foliage and a kiddy’s play area. Breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, mains including Asian cuisine and weekly specials make up the cuisine mix, complemented by a range of benches and sofa seating that gives this venue a unique feel. Retail outlets include Oasis Deli, a furniture store and YB Designs jewellery.

STORM P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 10am to late Named after a Danish cartoonist, this

January 2013 Word | 107

YEEBO Broadway Building, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Flashy hotpot joint great for large parties.

108 | Word January 2013

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 7.30am to 11pm daily The river plays a big role in this spacious restrobar in An Phu on the banks of Saigon's river. The menu offers seasonal dishes that include share plates, mains, classics and desserts along with a hearty breakfast menu and kids menu. Boat House caters for small to large functions, with three areas to choose from within an ideal private setting. Also provides occasional live music, mini festivals and various themed events.

BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL

CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 6592 www.boomerang.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Take the Esplanades in Singapore, transport one of the Lion City’s seafrontstyle restaurants to Vietnam and you have Boomerang, a two-story, Australianthemed but Singapore-owned eatery and bar with great terraced seating specializing in international fare all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

The menu runs the gamut from pizzas (around VND220,000) through to grills, salads and burgers (around VND185,000).

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CHARNER CAFÉ

EUROPEAN/ASIAN 98 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 6065 7am to 11pm Situated above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, Charner Café offers pan-European and Asian cuisine despite its overtly mid-to-late 20th century Parisianinspired interior. Excellent soups, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes are all available at reasonable prices ranging from VND120,000 to VND350,000, as are Chinese and Thai-style Asian courses.

Also serves breakfast, brunch and good coffee.

FIGARO

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ITALIAN-STYLE TAPAS / RESTOBAR 17 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3827 9095 10am to 11pm Specialising in Italian-style tapas and fine dining in a casual setting, Figaro offers an assortment of aperrandivi dishes, weekly blackboard specials, gourmet pizzas, pastas and salads, and an extensive selection of wines by the bottle from Italy, France, Chile, Australia and New Zealand.

Premium beers, spirits and cocktails make up the rest.

HARD ROCK CAFÉ

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6291 7595 www.hardrockcafe.vn Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2009, the 542sqm iconic café includes seating for 205, a bar, a live music area and a Rock Shop featuring Hard Rock’s rock n' roll inspired merchandise, including limited-edition pins and t-shirts, reflecting the spirit of the city.

Memorabilia from Hard Rock’s collection covers the walls of the bar, and includes items from many of the world’s most beloved and recognisable musicians, as well as contemporary artists with local ties. The restaurant menu features burgers, signature smokehouse items and more and the bar menu has a range of speciality drinks.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 7am to 11pm An easy, breezy, light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river. Serves up international comfort food such as burgers and pizzas as well as tasty Asian standards. Also has a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. Part of the Riverside Apartments complex. Check for daily boat schedule between the complex and downtown Saigon.

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.vn 8am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the well known Australian chain mixes hearty pub grub such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere thanks to the big screen TVs regularly showing various sporting events. Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long bar space and grassy/patio outdoor terrace, drinks include a mainly new world wine list and various local and imported beers and spirits. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

BROTZEIT

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WRAP & ROLL SA1–1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 5412 0461

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SURASANG 1417 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Korean deli displaying bowl after bowl of various types of kim chi and other traditional fare.

TIB Broadway Building, 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 6868

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ONE MORE SA9–1 My Khanh III, Ha Huy Tap, Q7 An everybody–knows–your–name type atmosphere at this local bar.

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OHAN S1 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Quality Japanese fare in a stylish atmosphere. Prices are higher but so is quality.

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NATHALIE’S THAI RESTAURANT S9–HV3 Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 A strong neighbourhood vibe at this pleasantly decorated Thai eatery–cum–café.

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LOVE NOODLE HOUSE D002 Nguyen Binh, Q7 Singaporean noodle house.

THE TAVERN R2–24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 3900 Cold beer, friendly service, a convivial atmosphere and a pavement terrace make this a perfect place for a pit stop any time of the day.

LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2188 A Lebanese restaurant and shisha lounge located in the downtown area Ho Chi Minh City, it encompasses a multiplefloored restaurant and extensive garden area. As the name suggests the menu has a Lebanese/Arabic theme and shisha with a variety of flavours are available on request.

BOAT HOUSE

LA PIZZA ITALIANA SF 19-1 Canh Vien 1 Duong Pho Tieu Nam, Q7 Tel: 08 5417 0511/2 - for deliveries Selling authentic Italian thin-crust pizzas & a selection of pasta dishes.

SARPINO’S PIZZA GrandView Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2480

BEIRUT

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JUJAEGEUM Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Enormous bakery, patisserie and chocolatier.

wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

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GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2289 International–style coffee house with the usual range of cappucinos, frappucinos and mochaccions to drink or take away.

DISTRICT 7

CREMONA 55 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Italian–style cake shop and café that serves excellent coffees and tasty sweets.

Lawrence S.ting Building

CAFÉ TERRACE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2178

Mini Golf Course and Swimming Pool

DISTRICT 7

Parkson Paragon Shopping Mall and Cinema

out & about

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4206, www.brotzeit.co/kumholink 11am to 12am daily The city’s first contemporary German bier bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers wellknown German black, blonde and gold beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine — think sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed, contemporary yet chic setting. Almost a Bavarian variation of the British gastropub chain All Bar One, the interior comprises wooden benches, wooden tables and a long wooden bar counter, as well as a semi open-air balcony overlooking Le Duan.

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains.

Excellent service and a good kids menu.

Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

KUMHO LINK AT KUMHO ASIANA + PLAZA SAIGON

39 Le Duan, Q1 www.kumholink.com.vn/en As Saigon’s one and only dedicated “Drinking and Dining destination”, Kumho Link has made a name for itself by being able to suit everyone’s food and drink desires: with quality Western, Hong Kong Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Singaporean, Thai and Vietnamese fare, along with great cocktails, imported German Beer and live music.

LA HABANA

ALTO Heli Bar: Level 52 Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, D.1, HCMC, t: 08.6291 8752 e: booking@altosaigon.com

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CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am Cuban–themed bar and restaurant selling a tasty range of Cuban and Spanish cuisine. The signature seafood–based paella goes for VND330,000 for two people and a big selection of tapas starts at VND40,000 each. Also has a small German menu featuring favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Does excellent cocktails, and,three–course lunches, including a drink, for under VND200,000.

MEKONG MERCHANT

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com 8am to 10pm daily. MM Bistro 6.30am to 9pm daily.

The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place to go in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard with a kids’ play area, a bar space, wicker-style seating and notice boards galore, the cuisine is a mixture of gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, salads, pasta and pizza interlaced with Gulf of Thailand seafood imported directly from Phu Quoc.

Also does a great breakfast. A recent addition is the aircon, bakery-style MM

SAIGON’S HIGHEST WORLDCLASS FOOD & BEVERAGE VENUES o

Saigon’s highest venues

(ALTO Heli Bar on level 52 & CIRRUS Sky Dining on level 51) o

Contact us to learn more

about our very special Tet and Valentine’s Day menus created by our American Executuve Chef Gabriel Boyer. o

Impress your guests with

360-degree sweeping views of the city’s skyline. o

Reservations essential.

CIRRUS Sky Dining: Level 51 Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, D.1, HCMC. t 08. 6291 8751 e: booking@cirrussaigon.com

out & about

AN PHU BLU BAR & GRILL 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 An easy, breezy light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river serves up comfort food and Asian standards. Also with a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials.

BOATHOUSE APSC Compound, 40 Lily Road, Q2 info@boathouse.com.vn The menu is built around surf and turf.

Lunch comprises of a healthy selection of soups, salads and sandwiches while dinner concentrates on top–end beef, seafood and pastas.

CAFÉ EVITA 230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Pizzas, salads, burgers, pastas, ice cream and a whole lot more besides is on hand to keep the entire family full and happy at this bright, airy and well kitted–out eatery.

GAUDI 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4722 A Spanish tapas restaurant decorated in the style of Spanish architect Gaudi.

Italian dishes such as pizza, risotto and pasta are also on offer.

GOOD EATS NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Connected to NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, the menu is based on the theme of maintaining a long and healthy life.

MEKONG MERCHANT 23 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 Superb dining space in leafy, shaded courtyard. Fresh Phu Quoc seafood is the speciality. Other staples are homemade pizzas, salads and daily specials.

SNAP CAFE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Chilled, rustic, open–air style cafe set in a large courtyard with comfortable wooden seating, banana–leaf roofing and an outdoor playground area for kids.

TAMAGO 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4634 Serving a range of authentic Japanese dishes and sushi, Tamago offers a weekly Sunday buffet lunch and BBQ/ yakiniku on Thursday evenings. Indoor and outdoor seating, with a great terrace. Private rooms also available.

Call for home delivery.

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out & about Bistro out front.

MY PLACE

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195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3829 8301 www.myplace.com.vn 11am to late, Tue-Sun Renovated from an old French colonial-era villa, My Place is a sleek, high-end gastropub with private salons, an idyllic garden space and several bar areas. Serves both local and international fare including stews, clams, pasta dishes and finger food. Also does a BBQ every Saturday night, brunches on Sundays and offers various daily food and drinks promotions.

PASHA

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TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

PACHARAN

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SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas.

Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene.

The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

SKEWERS

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315, www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE

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CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 11am to midnight The downstairs café-cum-lounge bar of this iconic downtown modern Vietnamese restaurant mixes subtle lighting with contemporary artwork ands design touches,

a swathe of browns, cream, maroon, sofa-style seating and deep red upholstery.

Serving a range of international fare together with Vietnamese dishes throughout the day, nighttime turns this venue into an upmarket, downtown bar. Known for its cocktails and extensive wine list.

ZANZBAR

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

TOP-END AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3820 7157 www.aulacdobrazil.com 5pm to 10.30pm Au Lac Do mixes a Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. Heading up the menu is the churrasco, the Brazilian barbecue, with 12 cuts of smoked, barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, all hand carved quite theatrically at your table. Not surprisingly the place can get a little busy, so best to book.

Has a second restaurant at 36/19–21 Ground floor, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7.

BLANCHY’S TASH

JAPANESE / PERUVIAN FUSION 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 11am to 3am Located in a three-storey building in the centre of downtown Saigon – and named after French colonial-era mayor Rue Paul Blanchy — this popular high-end restobar pulls in both diners and latenight revellers thanks to its inventive Japanese-Peruvian fusion menu (designed by former Nobu chef Martin Brito), late opening hours and regular DJ sets.

Check out their sashimi and tartares.

Mouthwateringly good.

CHILL SKYBAR

26th & 27th Floor Rooftop, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 2372, www.chillsaigon.com 5pm to 10pm (restaurant). 5pm to 2am (bar & lounge) Offering breath-taking views of the city, Chill consists of an upscale restaurant, posh sky bar and a sophisticated lounge.

The music schedule offers everything from chill-out, R&B and sexy house to hip-hop. A “Sunset Happy Hour Special” runs Mondays through Thursdays from 5.30pm to 8:30pm.

Make sure to dress well as Chill operates a no-shorts/no-sandals dress code policy.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 6am to 11pm The sleek, contemporary brown and cream decor at this street level steakhouse in the Norfolk Hotel plays host to a gem of a place close to Ben Thanh Market. Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range US or Australian steaks as well as the great grill and comfort food menu makes this a good option for a quality bite. Steaks start at VND390,000 for a decent sized cut. Does a nightly, competitively priced wine buffet.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3825 1879 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late A pleasant downtown eatery mixing the Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. The smaller downstairs and kitchen area is complemented by a no-smoking dining space upstairs replete with a bar and an outdoor terrace. Add to this bar-brick wall decor, light-wood tables and Argentinian themed photography on the walls and you have a well-rounded, popular restaurant only a stone’s throw from the Opera House.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE & WINERY

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 7373 www.steakhouse.com.vn 11am to midnight Evoking a retro, black and white Hollywood movie star environment, NYSW is known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, table-carved double strip loins and chateaubriands. Side dishes include black truffle cream spinach, potato dauphinois and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive wine list adds to the overall dining experience, which is enhanced by the all red and grey diner-style décor. Has an upstairs cigar room.

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine. Often puts on specials and brings in overseas chefs. Presently regarded as one of the best buffet restaurants in town.

PARKVIEW

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 6am to 10pm The ground floor, flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, the minimalist yet slightly kitsch décor here is designed to bring out the colours and ambiance of the restaurant’s lavish buffets. Served three times a day, with a number of alternative cooking stations, the cuisine runs the gamut from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood to creative salads, cold cuts and cheese plates to a range of desserts. Also does an excellent range of promotions.

Check their website for details.

QUO VADIS

INTERNATIONAL FUSION 5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 8am to 11pm This lounge-restaurant (below Lavish) is centrally located and has elegant, peaceful and cozy surroundings. The décor includes reproduction furniture, sculptures, flowers and oil paintings, and the menu has a great range of well-presented Asian and European dishes. The service is friendly, relaxed and attentive. A great place to meet friends to relax, eat and drink.

REFLECTIONS

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 6pm to 11pm Pan-Mediterranean and European dishes make up the bulk of the offerings at the refined but surprisingly fresh Reflections.

The Caravelle Hotel’s signature restaurant, old images of the city grace the walls while a pianist plays nightly in the separate bar area. And yet the fare is surprisingly contemporary. Cosy yet elegant, a well– sourced wine list and a pre-bookable private dining room make this a good choice for that special meal or to entertain people who need to be entertained.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 6am to 11pm Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus an ongoing roster of themed lunches in a fresh, elegant setting.

SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270– degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfort-spared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

STRATA

INTERNATIONAL/ASIAN Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 6291 8750 www.cirrussaigon.com 10am to 10pm Strata is an all-day restaurant and events venue offering a panoramic view of Saigon. Food offered includes an express business lunch from 11:30am to 2pm, high tea from 2:30pm to 5pm and a buffet dinner 6:30pm to 10pm, as well as an all-day a la carte menu. A separate private function space provides a suitable venue for business meetings, corporate events, seminars/conferences, and private dining.

THE DECK

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MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm.

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up Europeaninfluenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

SALT AND PEPPER

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7. Tel: 5412 4848 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm Located in the modern confines of The Crescent, this contemporary-styled Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an open kitchen and a relaxing outdoor terrace area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian cuisine, the menu includes a nice selection of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas and desserts, all at affordable prices. At night the cozy atmosphere creates the ideal ambience for a dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine.

MID-RANGE CENTRO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm A contemporary Italian-themed cafe and restaurant mixing the best of the peninsular’s coffee — anything from ristrettos and macchiattos to frappuccinis — with a decent cafe-based food menu that also includes a more extensive selection of mains. As well as a substantial range of meat and vegetarian panini and crostini, there are also Italian rice dishes, creative salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat or seafood-based mains.

CIAO BELLA

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NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3822 3329 www.saigonrestaurantgroup.com 9am to 11pm A fun and affordable New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of interesting and tasty antipasti, pastas, pizzas and more. Friendly and attentive staff, rustic bare brick walls and warm Tuscan yellow colouring make for a relaxed and attractive setting to dine while Sinatra, Deano and Sammy croon in the background.

LUCCA

TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1 Tel: 3915 3692 A contemporary yet traditionally themed Trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving a wide range of home cooked Italian cuisine in the confines of a well designed and thought out space with high ceilings. A varied menu is available to suit different tastes from traditional antipasti to substantial main courses.

PENDOLASCO

BUDGET

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: 6253 2828 www.pendolasco.vn 11am to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

MARGHERITA

STELLA CAFFE

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN

ITALIAN, TEX-MEX, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 0760 8am to 11pm daily This family-run restaurant has been on of the Backpackers’ Area mainstays for well over a decade, selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas all mixed in with pan-western cuisine, tasty Vietnamese fare and a few Tex-Mex dishes. Amiable owners, a pleasant atmosphere, reasonable pricing and an efficient delivery service make up the mix.

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ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm daily Besides serving up one of the best lattes in town, the tasteful, two-storey Caffe Stella has become one of the main expat haunts in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly staff, decent WiFi, reasonable Italian cuisine and indoor aircon space. Although there are a number of Vietnamese dishes on offer, the cuisine here is all Italian – think antipasti, pasta,

pizza, insalata and Italian-style mains – all sold at decent prices.

Strata Restaurant

MID TO TOP BASILICO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Cnr. Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.icasianasaigon.com 6.30am to 10.30pm A sleek, modern-styled trattoria attached to the back of the Intercontinental, the professionally designed, international Italian fare encompasses anything from carne and pesce dishes through to pizza, pasta, baguettes, focaccia and panini.

Has a breezy, tree-shaded outdoor street terrace area and is often packed at mealtimes. For being part of a five-star, prices here are very reasonable.

Level 50 Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, D.1, HCMC, t: 08. 6291 8750, e: booking@stratasaigon.com

CASA ITALIA

CLASSIC ITALIAN 86 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn 10am to midnight Pompeii ceiling tiling, Roman arches and a classic Italian feel pervade this restaurant close to Ben Thanh Market. The fare mixes international Italian cuisine such carbonara, Bolognese and Arrabiata dishes with regional specialities such as the linguine sfiziose and excellent woodfire oven pizzas. Has a good selection of mains as well as an intimate wine cellarstyle dining space upstairs.

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful, rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO

PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House.

The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni. This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

CELEBRATE TET & VALENTINE’S DAY AT ALTITUDE o The only all-day dining restaurant in Saigon with a VIEW

TOP-END OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 6am to 11pm Unpretentious, casual but elegant bistro– style restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu which starts with pasta and wood–fired pizza, and then moves on to an expertly crafted selection of gourmet fare. A terrace offers the chance to observe the city goings–on. The wine list is a compact selection from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and great open kitchens. Has a laid-back separate bar area, too.

o Chef’s special Tet and Valentine’s Day lunches, dinners and brunches being served with special menus o Private dining rooms and function room space available for family gatherings and corporate affairs o Saigon’s Highest Tea available every afternoon

January 2013 Word | 111

out & about RESTAURANTS – JAPANESE & KOREAN

BUDGET ASIAN KITCHEN

out & about a broth on your table. Eat the remaining soup with rice or noodles. A great, tasty and remarkably healthy dish. And it’s cheap, too.

KABUTO TOKYO

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PAN-ASIAN / JAPANESE 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 7397 7am to midnight daily While standard Japanese day-to-day fare is the focus of this long-running, bamboo-clad eatery close to Chi’s Café, the menu here also includes Vietnamese, Indian, western and vegetarian options.

With prices remaining at rock bottom – VND45,000 to VND65,000 for a mains — Asian Kitchen is a favourite with budget tourists and is highly rated on Trip Advisor.

JAPANESE / FUSION 45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 2351 11am to 1.30am Aiming to add some "Nippon (Japanese) culture” to Saigon’s dining scene, Kabuto Tokyo offers typical Japanese cuisine such as sushi and sashimi, fusion dishes like Kabuto Mushi and steamed Vietnamese seafood, and various skewers (roasted pork, Yakitori chicken) with salted rice and soy flavoured rice malts. The restaurant itself mixes Manga cartoons on the walls with golden ceilings and traditional Japanese armour, swords and huge carp steamer lantern displays.

TOKYO BBQ

OOO / MARUSAN

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 2527 9.30am to 2pm, 4.30pm to midnight The wooden and charcoal panelling together with the open downstairs kitchen and upstairs swathed-in-red dining area give this contemporary Japanese eatery a casual but comfortable ambience.

Specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoal-grilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, while the various other meat and vegetable options are also an excellent choice. Does a great lunch set starting at under VND100,000, rising to just under VND300,000 for the barbecue set.

MID-RANGE DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3521 0008 www.ramen.vn 11am to 1am Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the defining feature of this decidedly Japanese eatery is the black and white sketch of old Saigon stretching the whole length of the righthand wall. Bar-table as well as standard seating adds to the atmosphere while the menu focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also has a number of stir-fried options and a rice dish-based lunch menu.

MUS MUS

JAPANESE HOTPOT 117 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3930 9185 www.musmus.net 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm An excellent slither of a place specialising in Japanese-style hotpots, shabu-shabu and, in particular, the awesome steamed hotpot.

Choose 12 ingredients (including meats and seafood) from the menu and steam over

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

112 | Word January 2013

YAKITORI / CHICKEN RESTAURANT 37 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 3911 9000 www.yakitori-ooo.com 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Possibly one of the most eye-catching Japanese restaurants in town, this snug two-storey space mixes light wooden and bare industrial brick decor with a downstairs wooden topped bar area and upstairs cubby holes for semi-private dining. Serving all things chicken from hotpots and yakitori fare through to deep fried chicken on a huge bed of dried chillis, the trilingual menu also includes Korean soju, saki, a big selection of wine and imported Japanese beer.

OSAKA RAMEN

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 11am to 3am Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm Sunday If you like your noodles in every possible form and prefer them to be Japanese, then this sleek, open-kitchened contemporary eatery may just be a little slice of heaven.

Served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes, the ramen are supplemented by a range of smaller, appetizing sides. The Phu My Hung branch is on Nguyen Duc Canh next to S’Cottage.

SEOUL HOUSE

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr 7am to 10pm Now on its third location, the simply designed Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular. Two floors with a mixture of standard and sit-on-the-floor seating cater for a cosmopolitan clientele. The cuisine takes on the full Korean food spreadsheet with everything from banchan starters, kim chi and bulgoggi through to barbecues, claypot mixed rice and awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

YAMANEKO

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko–vn.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 1am Tucked away in an alley off Le Thanh Ton, the funky Yamaneko offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Including dishes such as buta no syoga yaki tesuko (grilled pork marinated in ginger sauce) and rafute soba tesoku (Okinawa soba noodle with soft stewed pork). Standard Japanese fare is also on hand if you don’t want to dive into something a little different. Does a great set lunch deal

MID TO TOP FUJI RESTAURANT

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Ground floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon, 235 Nguyen Van Cu Street, Q1 Tel: 3830 8123 Lunch: 11:00 - 14:30 Dinner: 18:00 - 22:30 Fuji restaurant offers luxury Japanese cuisine in Saigon such as Teppanyaki, sushi and Japanese dishes. All ingredients are prepared two Japanese Chefs from Tokyo and Osaka. The big selection of wine, sake and premium Japanese Wagyu beef. Tasty set lunch menus start VND 252.000++.

INAHO

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3829 0326 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita. Originally from Osaka this old hand travelled the world prior to serving a stint at the former Omni Hotel (now Moevenpick). His present venture features diminutive downstairs bar seating and upstairs space together with some of the best sushi and sashimi in town. The key is not just in the cutting and preparation, but in the ingredients and presentation. Here it is faultless.

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 Tel: 3930 0039, www.sushidiningaoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. All sushi dishes are prepared by a professional sushi chef from Japan.

Tasty set lunches start from a very reasonably priced VND90,000.

URAETEI BBQ RESTAURANT

JAPANESE BBQ 2A Ngo Van Nam, Q1Tel: 6673 9373 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Cool and dark, this forest grotto of a restaurant deals in natural finishes and a sense of isolated calm, all added to by private booths and food prepared at the table. Dishes include salty fish/squid, fresh raw beef, smoked chicken, fried pork cutlet, seafood pizza, sukiyaki and shabu shabu hot pot. The speciality here, though, is yakiniku, traditional Japanese grilled meat. Delicious.

RESTAURANTS – SOUTHEAST ASIAN

BUDGET CORIANDER

THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

MID-RANGE BAAN THAI

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 5453 www.baanthai-anphu.com 11am to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday. Open until midnight on Friday and Saturday Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating fill the restaurant and lounge bar

area of this eatery on the main drag in An Phu. The menu focuses on a range of rice, noodle, fried and curry dishes with a mix of other fare including a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as a selection of salads, including the likes of the firey larb moo and Laotian som tam.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn 11am to 10pm Whitewashed décor with a distinctly Thai theme – images of the Royal family, elephant embroidery and more – provide the atmosphere at this excellent, long-running restaurant. The fare runs from laab salads (from VND75,000) through to curries (from VND75,000), traditional Thai mains, som tam (VND70,000), fish cakes and dishes such as the deep-fried catfish with mango salad (VND75,000). Has three VIP rooms upstairs.

JASMINE THAI

PAN-THAI Tel: 3519 0038 Tues to Sun 5pm to 9.30pm A cosy, Thai-style garden dining area with a children’s playroom, this eatery off the main drag in An Phu provides soft, candle-lit lighting, Thai music and a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine runs the gamut from Bangkok Thai through to Laotian and Isaan cuisine, with anything from massaman and green curries through to lap ped and mains such as phad prew wan gai. Also does an efficient District 2 delivery service that includes The Manor and Saigon Pearl.

LION CITY

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SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic fivestorey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

MONSOON RESTAURANT & BAR SAIGON

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: 6290 8899 10am to 11pm Located minutes away from the backpacker area in a beautifully restored French colonial-era villa, Monsoon Restaurant & Bar Saigon specialises in pan-Southeast Asian cuisine from Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. Reasonably priced, with a great selection of health-conscious smoothies and juices, expect traditional favourites served in a boldly contemporary and visually arresting setting.

MID-TO-TOP KOH THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 4423, www.kohthai.vn 11am to 12am daily A modern Thai fusion restaurant that merges traditional Thai flavours with contemporary European presentation and cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus on set menus while the evening fare concentrates on a la carte. An extensive wine list and creative cocktails merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

VICKI’S TEPPANYAKI & BBQ

42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3232, www.vickis.com.vn 11am to 11pm Offering teppanyaki-style live cooking over seven floors, this completely non-smoking restaurant is fun for all the family. Headed up by Thailand’s No. 1 teppanyaki chef, the all-Thai cheffing team possess an arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, with each chef preparing the food in front of guests on a traditional teppanyaki-style grill.

Offering fresh local and imported meats and seafood at market prices, customers can also choose from an extensive set menu ranging from around VND500,000 to VND1.2 million per person

RESTAURANTS – VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A

BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills.

The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes.

Beefsteak Nam Son

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE

188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3930 3917 6am to 10pm Set down an alleyway in an outdoor

courtyard with an additional indoor dining space, this well-known eatery specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak.

Served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, you can add pate or an egg, all for well under VND100,000.

Has a second restaurant at 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. English menu available.

BO NE LE HONG

STEAK / BANH CUON 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 5106 11.30am to 22.30pm Stuffed down an alleyway close to the intersection of Huynh Van Banh and Le Van Sy, the bo ne offering at this fancooled, plastic stool eatery is one of the best in town. Served up sizzling with pate, fried egg, onions, chips and of course local beef, price-wise Le Hong remains very much a budget option. Is also known for its excellent banh cuon.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU

COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1 Tel: 3925 0935 www.comtamthuankieu.com.vn The multi-storey, downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery close to Cho Ray Hospital. Swathed in yellow and green and packed all day long, the fare here is everything com tam (bitty rice) - think suon nuong (barbecued pork), xiu mai (meatballs), thit heo quay (roasted pork), canh kho qua (bitter gourd broth) and muc don thit (squid stuffed with pork). Prices are cheap, too with the standard meal going for around VND30,000. Has an English menu.

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 0261 www.namgiao.com 7.30am to 10pm Set down an alleyway opposite Ben Thanh market and surrounded by a bizarre plethora of hole-in-the-wall beauty salons, this pleasantly attired, long-running Huestyle eatery is known for its excellent bun bo-style soups and central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen and much more. All the mains go for under VND50,000. Has a second eatery on Suong Nguyet Anh.

PAPAYA RESTAURANT

PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 10am to 10pm The work of the eponymous owner and head chef Chi Nghia, Papaya is one of the city's unsung gems. Tucked down a tangle of streets near the canal on the edge of

District 1, the cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap, too, with mains going for well under VND100,000, and portions are also on the large side. Well worth a visit

PHAP HOA

VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1Tel: 3839 5893 6am to 9pm If you desire service with a smile, avoid Phap Hoa. This vegetarian eatery is a truly functional place, with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with faux meat such tomato stuffed with pork and meat-filled cabbage rolls sitting alongside mushroom, tomato and tofu fare.

It tastes good, too. Just don’t expect the staff to bat you more than an eyelid.

PHO HOA

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3829 7943 6am to midnight Everything at this famous but strikingly traditional pho joint is largesse. From the size of the portions through to the plates of banh quay and fresh herbs as well as the myriad of other accoutrements, it’s all double-sized.

Fortunately looks don’t deceive and this distinctly southern version of Vietnam’s national dish tastes good, too. Choose from a range of cuts of beef and spice to taste. Gets busy so expect to share tables.

PHO 99

PHO / STEAK 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 2791 6am to 2.30am Although essentially one the city's better pho restaurants, putting Vietnam's most iconic dish in a pleasant aircon setting, the two-storey, late-night Pho 99 is also known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of local beef bought in Cu Chi. Served up with mushrooms, onions and fries, the dish goes for well under VND100,000 a go, and is one of the best beefy bargains in town. It tastes good, too.

QUAN HO GUOM

HANOI STREET FOOD 177 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 9185 This local, chrome table-topped eatery may not look like much, but except for the addition of Saigonese-style fresh herbs it does some pretty tasty and authentic Hanoi street fare. Dishes include the moreish bun cha (rice noodles with barbecue pork), nem ran cua bien (deepfried crab spring rolls), bun mang ga (rice noodle chicken and bamboo shoots

soup) and banh cuon thanh tri (wet rice paper rolls), all at budget prices. Also sells decent com binh dan (rice plate dishes) at lunchtime. No English menu.

SAIGON VEGAN

VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3834 4473 7am to 2pm. 4pm to 10pm A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat. Furnished with dark rustic wooden tables and chairs, Japanese-style wooden carvings and tropical foliage on the terrace area outdoors, the specialities here are the hotpots and the daily specials. But the vegan menu runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes.

Also has a range of sautéed fair.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 2538 7am to 2pm, 4pm to 9pm One of the city’s oldest eateries (it was established in 1925), this plain but charming holistic little venue located close to Ben Thanh Market also does some of the tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Cooked up without onions, garlic and MSG, the fare ranges from curry noodles and fried rice through to a tantalizing selection of nonfaux méat tofu and mushroom dishes. It’s cheap, too, and the menu is also in English.

VIET CHAY

VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3848 3399 www.vietchay.vn 7am to 9.30pm Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received plaudits aplenty thanks to its contemporary Buddhist, feng shui-inspired setting, almost reverent ambience and interesting menu. With a regular buffet (check for details), eight specialities are also on show from salted tofu in claypot through to hundred flowers hotpot and Viet Chay spring rolls. Also sells a range of appetizers, vegetables, salads and creative mains.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience

NATHALIE'S

PAN-THAI S9 Hung Vuong 3, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 www.nathaliesrestaurant.com 7am to 10pm Both a cafe and a restaurant, its corner location on the opposite side of the highway from KFC has gained Nathalies's a reputation among Vietnamese, Asian expats and more. Claiming to serve up 'Thai Fine Cuisine', all cooked without MSG, and with a particular focus on seafood, mains on the pan-Thai menu go for between VND100,000 and VND200,000.

Also has an outdoor Thai noodle stand.

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takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

BARBECUE GARDEN

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3823 3340 www.barbecuegarden.com 11am to 11pm A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. Specialising in all things barbecue, the menu goes from western and Vietnamese appetizers and salads through to combos, a la carte meats and seafood, vegetarian options, desserts and a kids menu. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair so expect smoke and lots of fun, too.

A great place for groups and parties.

CUC GACH QUAN

A TALE OF TWO CITIES ORIGINALLY FROM HO CHI MINH CITY, Zan Doan left for France at the young age of 14. He spent the next 20 years of his life abroad and completed his study of the arts at the l’Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. His short trip to Vietnam in 2007 left an indelible impression on him, which led him to come up with a series of works that capture the vibrancy of the two cities he has called home — Paris and Ho Chi Minh City. His works can be found in Vin Gallery (6 Le Van Mien, Q2).

masters. But, of course, if I had to pick one, it would be Marcel Duchamp. I see him as my biggest enemy, but I have to accept he is the most important.

What made you want to study the arts? What or who continues to inspire you?

I don’t know! I suppose it is most closely aligned with impressionism. I am deeply interested in the idea of space.

Here in Saigon, space takes on a life of its own and whenever I am outside I find myself constantly looking for the space. In my paintings I seek a harmony between the hectic noise of the crowd and the peace of open space.

I was told it was cool to be an artist — everyone wants to be cool, right? I began to do a lot of drawings of war when I was young; this inspired me from an early age. Everyone who I spend time with inspires me and I feel that everyone I meet is an opportunity for me to grow as an artist.

Are there art masters you look up to?

When I was in France, I spent seven years in the Louvre museum. I look up to all the

114 | Word January 2013

What is the medium you are most comfortable in using?

I work in oils. But for me, the texture of the canvas is also very important and I want it to be part of the painting. For this reason my method of application is lean.

How do you describe your style? What are your favorite themes?

What is your favourite work to date?

My next painting! Really, this is an impossible question — it’s like asking a parent which child is their favourite. I can’t choose!

What do you think was the turning point in your career?

I think it would have to be when I exhibited at Hotel Baudy at Giverny which was Monet’s place and the birthplace of the American impressionism. Famous names like Cezanne, Pissaro and Monet spent their time having lunch there. I also think my exhibitions in Romania and here in Saigon are both important milestones in my career.

MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh, the cuisine here is good, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients, together with a selection of more contemporary options.

HIGHWAY 4

101 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3602 2069 www.highway4.com 10am to 11.30pm The first Saigon version of the well-known Hanoi restaurant chain, Highway 4 is named after the six-thronged mountain highway that skirts the ChineseVietnamese border to the north. Serves up authentic Vietnamese cuisine and drink that reflects the ambience of the north and wider Vietnam, all set in a pleasant environment — the upstairs area has Asian-style, long-table, on the floor seating. Also does the excellent Son Tinhbranded rice wine liquors, with flavours ranging from plum to wild mountain apple.

HOA TUC

What was your solo exhibition with Vin Gallery about?

My experience as a painter enabled me to see the aesthetic of this city under a new guise. This, combined with the reminiscence of my memory, has I think created an ethereal quality in my work. I look to my surroundings for inspiration, so my work has a direct correlation to my location. My new series here in Saigon is about the concept of space. I like to play with the idea in my paintings, where you can see frantic crowds of people and motorbikes juxtaposed with calm space. — Lyra Dacio Visit www.tudoart.com to see Vinh’s work or email him at thevinhart@gmail.com.

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

Also runs separate cooking classes.

LAU XE LUA

PAN ASIAN HOTPOT Ground Level, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 6111 A Japanese-style rotating conveyor belt restaurant that substitutes sushi and sashimi for hotpot, diners order their preferred broth – choosing from Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Thai style – each with their own individual pot. Customers can choose from an assortment of fresh ingredients, such as thinly sliced meat, fresh seafood and leafy vegetables, to be cooked on a high-tech electric panel, tailor-making their own dipping sauce by mixing and matching a selection of condiments.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt.

Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

MAY RESTAURANT

5/2 Hoang Sa, Dakao, Q1, Tel: 3910 1277 May, meaning cloud in English, is a spacious Vietnamese restaurant opened

by French-Italian-Vietnamese restaurateur, Thai Tu Tho. Decorated with 20th century Indochine in mind, the restaurant is spacious and situated in a villa in the heart of Dakao ward, has a touch of understated luxury about it, too. Utilizing homemade broths developed by Tu Tho’s father, the restaurant also uses authentic homemade recipes such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls.

NHA HANG NGON

STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn 7am to 10pm A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a converted colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented and loved Vietnamese eateries. Specialising in pan-Vietnamese street food cooked up in a hygienic environment using quality ingredients, dishes cost between VND40,000 and VND100,000 each. Not surprisingly the place gets packed out with noisy diners, so best to book.

TEMPLE CLUB

PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3829 9244 11.30am to 10.30pm Once a hotel for French Pondicherry Indian dignitaries visiting both old Saigon and the Hindu temple opposite, this converted floor of one of the city’s best-preserved buildings is home to the elegant, refined and atmospheric Temple Club. Serving quality cuisine from the three main regions of the country, impeccable presentation and the occasional modern twist makes this a great place to entertain. For the colonial setting, the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

TIB

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187ter Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3829 7242 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Formerly owned by composer Trinh Cong Son, the local equivalent of Bob Dylan, this iconic, local institution mixes dark brown Hue-style, Indochine décor with sullen lighting, white tablecloths and a more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. The fare is all Imperial Hue — goi thanh tra, banh uot thit nuong, bun hen and much more. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

MID TO TOP BO LAC 3 (LOST COW 3)

STEAKHOUSE 71/3 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 8023 www.lostartsaigon.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm If décor could have a voice of its own, here it would be loud, clear, sophisticated and very funky, such is the contemporary but

very retro feel to this more recent addition to Alley Number 71. With a menu focusing on steaks, four cuts of either imported or locally produced beef are on offer, all served up with a range of sauces. For additional vegetables and sides, order separately.

CAFÉ IF

38 Dang Dung, Q1 Tel: 3846 9853 6am to 10pm Located in the grounds of a beautifully restored Indochina-French colonial villa, Café IF is completely non-smoking and offers a concise array of MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew for breakfast, while all lunch and dinner mains come with a choice of different meats and fish, cooked in various styles such as stir fry, hot pot and curry. Has a comprehensive selection of wines, cocktails and fresh fruit juice, too.

HUE CORNER

HUE CUISINE / PAN-VIETNAMESE 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 6281 9830 8am to 9pm. Closed Sundays A new Vietnamese addition to the Thao Dien area for those who want good quality local cuisine for lunch or dinner in a quiet setting. A Vietnamese buffet can also be arranged for your own parties at home with take-away and delivery in District 2. A special BBQ with seafood and meat takes places every Saturday.

QUAN BUI

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1 Tel: 3602 2241 / 01286 252351 7am to 10pm Popular with foreigners and Vietnamese, Quan Bui offers an extensive menu and reasonable prices. No MSG or sugar added and food is served in traditional pots/ crockery. This restaurant is worth visiting for its high quality food, chic black tables and inviting ambience. Western food also available but make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge.

SOUND & VISION LISTINGS

ARTS CLASSES 110 BOOKS & MAGAZINES 110 GALLERIES 111 LIVE MUSIC VENUES 113 PERFORMING ARTS 115 PRODUCTION COMPANIES 115

ARTS CLASSES HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780 www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults. Has a permanent exhibition at Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

THE TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHERS WORKSHOP Peter Stuckings and Mark Stennett are professional travel photographers based in Ho Chi Minh City who offer workshops and tours to help you improve your photography skills. For more information on dates and prices, check out www. facebook.com/TheTravelPhotographers or

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

COLUMNS IN THE FRAME 110 ROAD RULES 112 BAND & DJ 114

email them on pstuckings@gmail.com or mark@driftphototours.com

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP

Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A new creative group invites new members every second Tuesday in the evening for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire.

All levels are welcome from beginners to more experienced. Contact John by phone or e-mail.

VIN SPACE

4 Le Van Mien, Q2 Tel: 0983 377710 www.shyevin.com Vin’s Space is a cosy, intimate, lightfilled space that offers artists of all kinds a quiet space to work individually and share ideas and perspectives. Runs various weekly classes, including oil painting, drawing, figurative drawing and painting, and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

NAM PHAN

PAN-VIETNAMESE 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC Tel: 3933 3636 www.khaisilkcorp.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch This purpose-built, four-storey building is coated in greys, browns and creams mixed in with the Imperial architecture of Hue, Chinese imagery and Terracotta Army-style columns. All helps to create the perfect, eloquent atmosphere for fine dining in a Vietnamese context. The cuisine mixes well-known dishes from the various regions of Vietnam, all served up with a contemporary and welcome twist.

Good wine list.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE

MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 6pm to 11pm An elegant, contemporary restaurant whose unique décor has influenced the design of so many other eateries in town, five years of operation has seen Xu evolve into a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare here ranges from the likes of banh cuon thit heo through to pork wanton, bun cha, seared beef crostini, bo luc lac and Xu-style chicken rice, all served up with a modern twist.

January 2013 Word | 115

sound & vision BOOKS & MAGAZINES

SAHABOOK

ARTBOOK

43 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3502 1559 www.artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. Not only are the products current, but they also cover areas from art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping. Magazine titles in stock include the likes of FutureArc, GA Houses and Landscape World. The back room doubles up as an art gallery.

FAHASA

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5796 www.fahasasg.com.vn 8am to 10pm Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English, French, Chinese and Vietnamese. International best sellers, children’s books and toys and educational and professional textbooks are all available. Think the Vietnamese version of Waterstone’s or Borders and you’re somewhat close to understanding what this quality bookstore chain is all about.

FRENCH BOOKSHOP NAM PHONG

94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 7859 Set in a mixed colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallicrun bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications with a selection of second– hand Folio editions. Also stocks art books, coffee table books and French comics.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC)

2A Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 9650 www.pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City as well as other outlets throughout the country, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam.

Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction on non-fiction as well as over 2,000 English language titles from publishers such as HarperCollins, Random House and Penguin — the fiction available ranges from classic and modern literature through to detective novels, horror, thriller and children’s books. If you’re looking for bestseller-

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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list titles from overseas, this is the place to start your search.

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

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175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6290 6599 www.sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, the travel titles here range from titles on Eastern Europe to East Timor and city guides through to maps. Also stocks non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, bills/coin collections and travel fiction.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3821 3695 www.bluespacearts.com 9am to 5pm With its ochre walls and internal courtyard complete with a quaint bridge, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center is an attraction unto itself. Inside the 120sqm space, local expert Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia, from sculptures and luridly coloured abstract paintings to contemporary representations of timeless Vietnamese themes: village scenes, willowy girls in ao dais and water buffaloes in fields.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878 317 (Ms. Mai) www.cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner on the outer reaches of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery (CTG) offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. CTG has been in operation since 2009 although its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade and has mentored a number of now well-known and highly regarded Vietnamese artists. CTG features primarily emerging and mid-career artists and has a regular schedule of exhibitions both at its main gallery space in District 1 and its satellite exhibition space in the Thao Dien Ward of District 2.

DUC MINH GALLERY

31C Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn 9am to 6pm Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock colonial mansion constitutes the private museum and art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Helpful and friendly English-speaking staff are on hand to guide you through the artists and styles of Vietnamese art on offer. Artists exclusive to the gallery include the twins Le Duc Hai and Le Ngoc Thanh plus Hoai Huong and Vu Thang. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to something approaching astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday Contemporary art gallery Galerie Quynh, initially promoting several of Vietnam’s pioneering abstract painters, now focuses on a wider international programme. In

addition to working with a select group of artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of distinguished artists from around the world allowing the local community and visitors access to a diverse range of contemporary art practice. Working with art spaces and curators internationally, the gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON

324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) www.himikokoro.com 8am to 10.30pm Monday to Sunday A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes.

Open for five years, this cafe-cum-gallery, the brainchild of local artist Himiko Nguyen, has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things. Recent works include The Happening, a year-long project that sees a solo installation by a different artists showcased every fortnight until November 2011.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 4441 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. The first floor displays changing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. Move one level up and the galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, featuring sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to various colonial rulers. The third floor exhibits older works from the first century AD through to the early 20th century.

There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement, accessed through the courtyard in the centre of the building.

SAIGON GALLERY OF FINE ART

9 Phan Chu Trinh St., Fl 2-3, Q.1 Tel: 38226570 VN +84-919025726 / US +1-714 697 7037 10am - 7pm daily The Saigon Gallery of Fine Art is located on the West Wing of the famous Ben Thanh market. The gallery is set up on the second and third floor of an old French building that is accessed by a cozy hallway-entrance. Founded in 1999 with the objective of promoting contemporary Vietnamese art and providing support to young, up-and-coming Vietnamese artists. Various types of art displayed on different media include oil on canvas, lacquer on wood and paper works. The gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website. Specific paintings by Vietnamese artists can be acquired upon request.

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1366 129B Le Thanh Ton Q1 Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 9pm Established in 2004, these two galleries focus on the contemporary art works of both fledgling and experienced Vietnamese artists from across the country. Works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu are displayed and an eclectic range of styles is featured, including abstracts,

landscapes and impressionism.

Mediums mainly feature lacquer on wood and oils on canvas, although some silk paintings are available.

SAN ART

3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 www.san–art.org 9.30am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat San Art is an independent, artistrun exhibition space and reading room dedicated to the exchange and cultivation of contemporary art in Vietnam. It also aims to support the country’s artist community by creating opportunities that provide exhibition space, residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

TUDO GALLERY

53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city artists. It aims to promote the works of contemporary Vietnamese artists to domestic and foreign art appreciators.

ZEROSTATION

288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 www.zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and long-term art project managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy. With a small installation room and two beds, artists can also participate in ZeroStation’s art residency programme.

into a trendy live music nightspot with a selection of resident and guest DJs to be found behind the Saratoprogrammed decks. Expect a multitude of electronic sounds, from deep and liquid house to lounge, disco, chill out, hip-hop and a bevy of instrumentals you’ve heard before but can’t quite put your finger on.

CACOPHONY

57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 9am to 11pm This unique establishment sets itself apart from other live music venues in Saigon as the city’s first 3D-themed café. Each floor of this French-colonial three-storey villa has been designed as a homage to both Sagionese and Hanoian street café culture. The ground floor is where the live music happens every Wednesday to Sunday from 9pm to 11pm with pop, rock and country sets performed by the growing plethora of local bands.

CARMEN

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3829 7699 6pm to 1am The inspiration for Carmen is the popular opera named, naturally, Carmen. In place of European leads are the musical talents of a local band as well as Filipino and Vietnamese lead singers crooning to Latin beats. As if being a venue built on Flamenco music was not enough to stand out in Saigon, it further differentiates itself with a cabin-like exterior, steep stairs, a small cavernous-type entrance and an interior highlighted by rough rock walls, wood beams and candle-lit beer keg tables.

HARD ROCK CAFÉ

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6291 7595 www.hardrockcafe.vn Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2009, the 542sqm iconic café includes seating for 205, a bar, a live music area and a Rock Shop featuring Hard Rock’s rock n' roll inspired merchandise, including limited-edition pins and t-shirts, reflecting the spirit of the city. Famous for its burgers and American fare, the venue also has nightly live music played by their house band together with a range of events – anything from live, standup comedy through to the Battle of the Bands. Check their website for details.

JARDIN D’AMOUR

8Bis Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 6679 2406 9am to 11pm A quirky, French-style café with a subdued and relaxing atmosphere.

Each evening from 8.30pm the selftitled ‘Garden of Love’ houses live music with different themes such as Tien Chien Night (pre-war Vietnamese music), International Covers Night and Lovers Night. The stage is a quaint miniature theatre-style set up with white picket fencing and a painted backdrop of a garden positioned next to a tiny raised balcony where a pianist serenades customers every Monday night. Romantic ballads can be heard every Tuesday and rock every Friday.

LA HABANA

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6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com Saigon cover band stalwarts Carmen &

Brothers play an eclectic selection of well known hits by the likes of Michael Jackson, Leona Lewis and Bon Jovi every night of the week except Mondays. The music usually starts at 9pm but arrive early to ensure prime seating in the lounge.

METALLIC BAR

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41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: 3930 3154 www.metallicbar.com 9pm to 1am A popular destination for both locals and foreigners with a hankering for live rock music and a totally smoke-free atmosphere, Metallic Bar is one of Saigon’s most established live music venues.

Longtime house band, The Yellow, a host of Filipino singers and numerous local Vietnamese bands can be seen rocking out to ferocious covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and CCR on a nightly basis between 9pm and 12am before a DJ takes to the decks to perform a selection of contemporary dance, hip hop and r n’ b tunes through to the early hours.

NAPOLY BAR

7 Pham Ngoc Thanh, Q3, Tel: 3829 0583 www.napolybar.com 7pm until 12am Named after the famed southern Italian city, the ground floor seating of this popular and somewhat upscale café looks and feels like it came straight out of Italy itself. The upstairs bar in the back is the place to catch local Vietnamese band Quoc Anh play classic 1980s hits every night from 9pm to midnight.

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon 7pm till late Tuesday to Sunday One of Saigon’s chicest venues with

some of the most awe-inspiring views of the city, this hotel bar offers nightly live music (except on Mondays) from 9pm courtesy of the multinational sextet Motion. Expect a bit of everything from r&b, dance and jazz to hip-hop, rap and rock.

PACHARAN

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97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6024 9am to midnight Wednesdays and Fridays are the nights to catch local favourites such as cover band circuit legend Juram, and latin pop group Warapo. Juram is known for his gravel-voiced versions of anthems

by Nirvana, Pink Floyd and Metallica, while Warapo serve up a very physical offering live and exotic Cuban salsa music.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3 Formerly Tadao Coffee Bar, the promoters behind RockFanClub, the long-running underground Vietnamese hard rock and metal night, have moved in, finally giving the city’s moshers a home of their own. Local hard rock and metal bands can be found playing every night of the week from around 9pm at this tiny yet comfortable and cool venue.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR

9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 11am to 2am Cuban bands are a mainstay at this outdoor bar with salsa band Warapo providing a musical melting pot of South

LIVE MUSIC VENUES ACOUSTIC

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6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Tel: 3930 2239 7pm until late Though only 1km from the heavily touristic downtown area, Acoustic is well off most foreigner’s radars. The allVietnamese house band performs every night, playing mostly western covers, and the space is perpetually jammed with young locals either bopping away in the crowd or getting up on stage. Known for being notoriously busy at the weekends, arrive by 7.30pm to stand any chance of getting a seat. Those with a love for heartfelt rock balladry and heavy rock n’ roll should check this place out on Friday nights. Has occasional guest bands from overseas.

BAR BUI

39/2 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3824 1963 lodgebui@gmail.com 10am to 12am Also known as Dust Lodge, Bar Bui resembles Seventeen Saloon with its red and blue neon lighting, bricked walls, wooden roof, columns and beams. It hosts live flamenco and country music every night from 8.30pm courtesy of three Filipino house bands.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

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9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 8am to 1am This sleekly designed café morphs

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sound & vision

BAND & DJ LISTINGS BAD NEIGHBOUR claualehm@hotmail.com Bad Neighbour plays a combination of Latin and rock with some reggae and rap thrown into the mix. A multinational outfit with nine members, Bad Neighbour can be seen performing on Fridays at Hard Rock Café.

BOB WITTENBACH (BONGO BOB) Tel: 0903 193241 Ex-professional rock, blues, jazz and pop drummer from London who has played with various artists including John Otway, The Breaks and The Scaffold. Has played many gigs in Saigon with Mike Belmes, Curtis King and Juram, among others.

Looking to hook up with like-minded blues/rock musicians interested in bringing an Asian feel to Western themes.

CARMEN & BROTHERS LIVE Acoustic Band carmenandbrothers@yahoo.com facebook.com/lahabanasaigon La Habana’s famous Filipino house band captivates audiences most nights of the week with Carmen’s extraordinary vocal range and an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary pop, r&b, retro, latin, rock and ballads CURTIS KING BAND Tel: 0908 339405 www.curtiskinglive.com A funky, bluesy, travelling rock ‘n’ roll band with an east-meets-west sound.

Founded in 1996, the band has performed all over the world and has been featured on MTV, the BBC, China Central Television, XoneFM Radio and HTV. Having recorded four albums, the band can be caught playing throughout Vietnam and the region. Available for weddings, corporate, embassy, consulate or chamber of commerce events.

DJ AJAM http://djajam.podomatic.com Vasco’s resident DJ Ajam (UK) available for private parties, clubs, bars and versatile in any style of music. With 17 years of DJing experience, Ajam has played at venues worldwide including the worlds number one club brand Pacha.

Now teaching private DJ classes to all ages. DJ equipment and sound system for rent.

DJ JORDAN HOWARD Tel: 01223 447721 whitfield@jordanhoward.net American DJ specialising in eclectic mixes of 1980s, pop, rock, and hip-hop to audiences of all ages and nationalities.

A Vasco's veteran of three years, Jordan has played many balls and corporate events around Vietnam.

DMA: DIGITAL MUSIC AGENCY 380/13B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3843 6459 (ask for Ms. Nhi) www.dma.vn DMA is the first international DJ training centre in Vietnam. Run by professional local and overseas DJs, DMA offers

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training programmes and job opportunities for those wanting to become professional DJs or looking to learn for pleasure. DMA uses the latest professional DJ equipment and software, and doubles up as an events company and talent agency.

EVERYONE’S A DJ everyonesadjvietnam@gmail.com www.everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com One of the top and longest running indie electro, 80s new wave, 50/60s dance parties in Saigon. Its concept is simple: to create a party with a DIY aesthetic heavily rooted in art, film, and design.

Fronted by superkid, the parties occur monthly with rotating DJs and VJs. GILLES SNOWCAT (FROM AWAKEN) www.awaken.be, awamail@hellokitty.com Awaken’s Gilles Snowcat is in Saigon looking to join forces with musicians who don’t want to play it safe in order to make his magnetic soul music caress the eared need apply.

JURAM GAVERO TRIO juramgavero@hotmail.com Juram has been playing around the city for the last 12 years, and is now one of the most popular acts in Ho Chi Minh City. His blend of eclectic music styles gathered from his experiences around the world stand him in good stead to make you enjoy your evening any night of the week.

MARK “MR. JOLLY” JOLLY Tel: 0918 119987 With over 20 years DJing experience and close to a decade playing in Vietnam, Mr Jolly can cover pretty much any musical situation from private parties to the largest club and corporate events.

Can play a wide range of musical styles despite having very little hair.

RISKY RED rickreid@vnn.vn Either a three-piece acoustic light rock combo or a six piece full-on rock ‘n’ roll, blues and boogie, party Band. Regular around Saigon.

THE WANDERLUSTER Tel: 0122 3022 262 davis@wanderlustersvn.com The Wanderlusters are an acoustic, vocally inspired band, outfitted with traditional blurgrass instruments, that plays American roots music. Influenced by country, bluegrass, rock, folk, gospel, and blues, The Wanderlusters play your favourite hillbilly soul songs.

WARAPO BAND Tel: 0933 067752 warapo.production@gmail.com This high-energy seven piece Cuban band brings the sensuality and the passion from the Carribbean. Their music is a unique blend of styles ranging from salsa, merengue, cha cha, reggaeton and pop that’s ideal for events and private parties.

American rhythms every Tuesday as part of the hotel’s Havana Ladies Night, while the six-piece Luna Negra like to mix it up with salsa, bachata and merengue on Wednesdays through to Mondays. Both bands start at 9pm.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

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103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3914 0007 www.seventeensaloon.co.vn 7pm until late A favourite among both Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this Wild West-themed bar doubles up as a great live music venue with no less than three highly talented Filipino cover bands rocking out nightly. B & U, Wild West and Most Wanted impressively belt out like-for-like hits by rock staples such as Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses’ while pumping Vietnamese techno blasts out of the speakers in between sets.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH HOUSE

+ 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793, www.sheridansbarvn.com 9am to 12am Those in search for a sound of the familiar will find solace at one of Saigon’s longest running bars. A different cover band gets up every night of the week (except Mondays) at this

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox 1 and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3862 2425 www.cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 3775 2521 www.lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: 3849 4567 www.galaxycine.vn

pub-like Celtic establishment. Celtic Band knock out jovial Irish ditties on Tuesdays; the classic rock power of Risky Red and Mr. Bo can be heard on Wednesdays and Fridays; Wonderluster play pop hits on Thursdays, and rollicking Japanese blues group, 12 Bar Blues take over on the weekends.

VASCO’S

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74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12am (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

With two rooms set up to cater to bands and DJs (Yellow Room & Blue Room), Vasco’s is one of Saigon’s most prominent live music venues. Catering mainly to the musical tastes of muso expats, the likes of DJ Premier, Free The Robots, Handsome Furs and Daedelus have headlined this former opium den. Local DJs such as Jordan Howard and DJ Jase regularly put on nights with hip-hop, dubstep, drum n’ bass, reggae and dance firmly on rotation.

Local expat latin-punk band Bad Neighbour also plays on most Friday nights.

YOKO

22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 0577 8am until late As the name suggests, John Lennon's wife inspired the name of this excellent bar. Refurbished and expanded in 2011, Yoko is undoubtedly one of the coolest and most unique venues in Saigon, hosting live music nightly from some of the city's best local musicians and bands, including 6789, Microwave and Coconuts. Expect classic rock, jazz, funk, country, metal, grunge, blues and everything else in-between. An unmissable destination for grassroots and underground music lovers.

PERFORMING ARTS HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA

The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 7419, www.hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Shows feature both national and international stars, and take place in one of the most elegant buildings in the city. There are two annual seasons: Spring through summer (January to June) and autumn through winter (July to December),

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING

IDECAF

WI-FI

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 5451 www.idecaf.gov.vn

NON-SMOKING AREA

MEGASTAR CINEMA

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 0088 www.megastar.vn

DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

featuring performances every 9th and 19th monthly. Tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC

decks, drums & rock n' roll

sound & vision

112 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre is the perfect place for classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to other performance groups in the city. Also provides music education in undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels for the southern region of Vietnam. There are two concert rooms (500 seats and 100 seats) with two performances weekly. To obtain a programme of events, visit the Opera House.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY

Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn www.hcmcchoir.com This well–established 40–strong choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3. The Choir’s repertoire includes classic works by Bach, Beethoven, Handel, and Verdi as well as songs from musicals, traditional songs from Britain, Christmas carols in many languages, gospel songs, and national and European Anthems.

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SAIGON PLAYERS

www.saigonplayers.com saigonplayers@gmail.com A non-profit community theatre group whose mission is to uphold the arts while giving to charity. Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights at 7.30pm every first Wednesday of the month at La Habana and script nights at 7.30pm every third Wednesday of the month at venues alternating between Boomarang Bistro Saigon in Q7 and Geisha's Tea House in Q1.

PRODUCTION COMPANIES CREA TV

339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 7434 www.crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Facilities are located at Thanh Da Island and include two studios (400m2 and 150m2) as well as in-house post-production. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisations and permits, art department, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS

91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10 Tel: 0908 477079 www.factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films is a diverse, creative, bespoke production company built on broad film and media experience. Their team has developed and delivered content worldwide and specialises in TVCs, documentary, web and TV content with vast experience in all stages of production from development through to post production and delivery.

WHERE ARE YOU ORIGINALLY FROM AND HOW DID YOU GET HERE? DO YOU HAVE A DAY JOB? Sitti: I came from the City of Smiles — Bacolod City, Philippines.

I had my first singing contract in China in 2006. Then I went on a vacation trip with my mum to Thailand in the year 2010. I decided to stay, until I made my way to Cambodia and Ho Chi Minh City.

Jason Jazz and I were introduced by a friend a year ago.

We had our first gig together out of town and it turned out way better, like we were already performing together for quite awhile. Ever since then, we decided to team up and we’ve been making the rounds in the Saigon music scene.

Aside from singing, I do have a daytime job. I am an educator/ teacher and practicing both my passion and profession is always what I desire to do.

Jason: I came from Cotta Lucena City, Philippines. My musical talent brought me to Ho Chi Minh City as a keyboard player in 2004, then as a pianist and later I switched

to playing guitar and doing vocals as well.

WHAT'S YOUR MUSICAL BACKGROUND? Sitti: Singing has always been part of my life — from my grade school days to my university days, I’ve always been onstage singing with the glee club or the church choir. I have pursued my dream of becoming an international singer and have performed in different countries since 2006. I've been performing around Asia including China, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and of course my home country, the Philippines.

Jason: Back in the Philippines, I was always active in the music ministry. During my high school and university days, I played the trumpet for a marching band. I dabbled in playing the piano alongside veteran Filipino musicians at a young age. Inspired by my mentors, I took formal lessons and a course in education, majoring in music. I have always had the enthusiasm to master my craft, especially when it comes to music. Using my knowledge in

musical theory, I tried playing the guitar and we’ve been inseparable ever since.

WHAT’S ON YOUR PLAYLIST? Sitti: I was classically trained as a singer and it’s always a challenge for me to widen up my range — from classical, bossa nova, pop, R&B, easy rock and country.

Sometimes we also play Latin, rock, alternative, foreign songs and even hits from the 1960s through to the 1990s in order to please our crowd.

Jason: I am a versatile musician that puts a variety of feeling into every music genre that I play. I can play almost all kinds of music types depending on the venue and the crowd. My aim is to make my audience appreciate the music we create. I love to play fusion, jazz, soul and gospel music.

Catch them at the newest cozy spot, Cavern Pub at 19 Dong Du, Q1 every Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. You can also jam with them at the acoustic night every Sunday at Number Five Bar at 44 Pasteur, Q1, and Wednesdays at Red Bar at 70 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1.

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LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS

LEISURE AMUSEMENT 116 BASKETBALL 116 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 116 COOKING CLASSES 116 CRICKET 116 DANCING 116 FITNESS 116 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 118 GOLF 119 LEISURE - GENERAL 119 SPORTS CLASSES 120 TENNIS 120

LEISURE AMUSEMENT DAI NAM THEME PARK

Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong , Tel: 0650 384 5845 6:30am to 5:30pm A mammoth of a place, the superkitsch Dai Nam is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. Just 50km from Ho Chi Minh City past Thu Dau Mot on Highway 13, the amusement park rides include two huge roller coasters, an excellent go kart track, dodgems, kiddy’s bouncy castles and much more. Then there's the well set-up water park, a non-cringe worthy zoo modeled on its counterpart in Singapore, a 5000 sqm temple and the cultural area.

Well worth the VND50,000 ticket price.

LASER TAG

5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun.

Hand over VND40,000 and you’re in for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun. The gaming area is a little on the small side but the equipment all functions well, and you’re provided with a fun and alternative leisure activity. A collection of arcade games can be found in foyer.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTQANICAL GARDENS

2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3829 3728 www.saigonzoo.net 7am to 5pm At less than VND10,000 for entry, Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical gardens is a great option for a day out in the city. Dating back to 1875, Saigon has one of the oldest zoos in the world, which makes it a famous site not only for the Vietnamese.

You can get lost amongst the many rare orchids, ornamental plants in the garden or marvel at over one hundred species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Some of the enclosures don’t meet western standards so the wary should steer clear.

BASKETBALL PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB

8 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot

120 | Word January 2013

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

VIETNAMESE CLASSES 120 YOGA & MEDITATION 120 WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 120 COSMETIC SURGERY 121 DENTAL 122 HAIRDRESSERS 122 MEDICAL 124 PHARMACIES 124 SALONS 124 SPAS 124

leisure & wellness service on offer as well as the alfresco dining option offered poolside at the ‘Coco Cabana’. The lush garden adjacent to this outside eatery provides a great option for kicking back with a cocktail. A 3-month membership will set you back VND4 million.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB

36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1 Tel: 3820 9734 www.overlandclub.jp A Japanese home cooking class that meets every Sunday afternoon from 1.30-5pm. Run by a Japanese pottery artist, Overland Club also organises pottery classes, Vietnamese-Japanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating papers and multinational cuisine days. The club is open to all nationalities and ages.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

SAIGON EXPATS

kurtislaw@best.com.vn A basketball night at Saigon South International School every Thursday, open to anyone who wants to play or watch.

Call Kurtis Law on 01265 638 486 to secure an invitation.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM www.ilvietnam.com This long–established social organisation fosters social contacts for women in the city and currently has a membership of 500 women from 42 nations. The group offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Meetings are held at 10am every Thursday at the Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur, Q3. Membership for the first year costs VND700,000; annual renewal is VND500,000.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3898 9000 www.parklandvn.com 6am to 10pm Opened in 2003 the Parkland Country Club offers a green retreat from the frenetic city with its 2-hectare space in An Phu. The club is able to organise a wide range of activities such as wine tasting and sports tournaments due to its extensive facilities, which include three different dining options, supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, 3 tennis courts, squash courts, a lap and fun pool, spa and premier gyms. Monthly memberships are VND3.5 million.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonatownclub.com 6am to 10pm Up and running since May 1998, Sedona Town Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide private sanctuary from the busy streets. Amongst the attractions are the club’s recreational facilities, which include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi. Members can benefit from the secretarial support

74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com Learn how to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local fine dining specialists Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients and the preparation of three tasty local dishes. Some tricks of the trade and the chance to sample the fruits of your labour afterwards also feature. A seasonal desert wraps things up nicely. Courses run from Tuesday to Sunday with two sessions per day from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. The class is VND800,000 for adults and VND500,000 for children.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3827 0349 www.vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com Established in 1999, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy. Located in a pretty colonial-style villa 15 minutes from the city centre, the course caters to all skill levels. An introduction to a traditional Vietnamese kitchen and cooking utensils is an added bonus as well as a trip to a central food market. For VND800,000 per person you can attend their morning course from 9.30am to 1pm or the afternoon course from 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Meals included.

CRICKET SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE

The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations – Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka – as well as a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club (UCC). New recruits are welcome. The teams play on weekends at RMIT and have regular practice sessions. The season starts every October.

VCA (VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

COUNTRY TEAMS: ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 Samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 Suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Mobile: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

DANCING DANCENTER

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung Tel: 3519 4490/4340 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio available online.

LATIN STREET DANCE

Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday at Geisha's Coffee and Tea House (2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1).

It's individual dancing (no partnering) and you just need to buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate. Contact fred@ salsaaigon.com.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 www.saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to their studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”. Scheduling information is available online.

SAIGON SWING CATS

www.saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information.

Free introductory class every Wednesday at Caffe Molinari (Petrohouse Tower, 5 Le Duan, Q1).

FITNESS AIS SPORTS CENTRE

Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) www.aissportscentre.com With a 25m swimming pool, Astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay in shape. Memberships start at VND10 million per year and are payable in advance or semi–annual installments. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

Queen Ann Building, 28–30–32 Le Lai, Q1 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring state–of–the– art equipment with over 100 aerobic and

yoga classes such as Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance, Body Combat and more.

NTFQ2

19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool. Monthly membership costs VND3.2 million.

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq@nutrifort.com Has a strong focus on fitness classes and personal training. Besides an excellent weights and cardio area, the facility runs group classes including power yoga, Pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. The centre also contains a spa and a restaurant serving up calorie– calibrated meals to help members stay in line with individual fitness programmes.

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER

PAUL SIMOS

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA

49 A Xa Lo Hanoi, Q2 Tel: 0947 771326 www.cyril-and-you.com There's a new sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril Terrones.

Cyril's fitness centre features no membership and no monthly charge, and the same personalised, hands-on mentorship Cyril's clients have come to love from him. There is Zumba, salsa and English boxing for kids and adults, and fitness every day.

www.paulsimos.com paul@paulsimoshealthcoach.com Tel: 01286 305 982 Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul has studied all major dietary theories and uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them. Contact Paul for a free health history consultation.

DIAMOND HEALTH CLUB

Tel: 093 815 6865 www.corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial arts trainer with 14 years of fitness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California. Certified by the National Sports Academy Of Medicine and a certified Sivananda yoga instructor trained by Green Path Yoga.

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found at this leading department store. Off–peak membership from VND1.7 million per month.

JOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR

Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise programmes, weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports.

Services include fitness and nutrition assessment.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 A 750m2 space that offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA and kid’s basic martial art classes as well as private fitness, bodybuilding and cardio conditioning.

Come to get into shape, take out stress or learn a new sport with foreign instructors.

Open to everyone from kids to adults and beginners to professionals.

LA COCHINCHINE

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 1812 www.lacochinchine.net This new colonial–themed gym is a large, open–plan space, situated on the top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, loads of cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms. Also offers classes. Peak membership starts at VND2.2 million per month.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Taebo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. Membership to the small professional fitness studio costs VND1.8 million per month, or just VND1.3 million per month for a one–year membership. Drop–in sessions cost VND300,000. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room to help you unwind after a work out.

PATRICK NGUYEN

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. A good place to take time out at the pool–side bar. Costs VND400,000 a day or VND2.2 million a month.

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 www.saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool.

Standard monthly membership starts from VND4.5 million while a day pass goes for VND450,000. Special yearly memberships and family offers available.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR

Tel: 01225 811 080 www.sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano is qualified in mat work and Pilates equipment, and offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs and schedule.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 Membership costs VND12 million for six months and VND21 million for a year at this small but well–equipped gym.

Equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in

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leisure & wellness establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness – Vietnam’s second largest gym.

Memberships gives free access to regular fitness classes and involves a one-time free entry, plus monthly subscription.

STEPHANE LAPORTE, FITNESS COACH

Tel: 0908 897 604 www.personaltrainers.asia Stephane Laporte is a certified personal trainer and sports massage therapist.

Take a free assessment and receive a tailored goal-driven fitness and nutrition programme to get you in the shape you want to achieve. Programmes include pre/post-race preparation and therapy, triathlon coaching, corrective and functional exercises, weight loss/gain, TRX, Kettlebells and Capoeira as well as many other services.

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking The Crescent complex’s lagoon, this multi-purpose and organically designed fitness and wellness centre offers an array of modern facilities. A state-of-the-art gym fitted out with the latest Technogym equipment allows users to track their progress with personalised keys, while other features include group fitness classes, yoga sessions, a squash court, swimming pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

THE LANDMARK CLUB

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext. 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Call for further information.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Equipped with technologically advanced equipment, large cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, this gym has spacious changing facilities with sauna and steam rooms, three group class studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, Step Aerobics and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

www.vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia.

Training sessions are held weekly in both Saigon (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT University, Q7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra).

Social functions aplenty for everyone.

Regardless of age, preferred sport or ability, all are warmly invited to become an active part of an inclusive Club.

Contact Nick on 0937 683 230.

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

www.gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been

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leisure & wellness playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years.

Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

SAIGON RAIDERS

jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams in the nearby provinces. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent for weekly training sessions and matches.

Contact Jon Hoff.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social touch rugby is played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT University from 4pm. The Saigon Geckos welcome both men and women of all nationalities to join and enjoy a few beers afterwards. Does regular tours of the region for tournaments, as well as inviting visiting teams for ladies’ touch rugby, contact rugby and men’s over–35 contact rugby. Beginners welcome.

SAIGON SAINTS

www.saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

GOLF LADIES’ FIRST GOLF

www.ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF

Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7 Tel: 5411 2001 Visitors’ green fees are VND400,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course behind FV hospital. Fees discounted by 40% on Wednesdays. On the driving range, a basket of 50 balls costs VND60,000.

Equipment hire is also available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT

77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756 660 www.songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city. Individual memberships cost VND38 million or VND63 million per year.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

Long Thanh My Village, Q9 Tel: 6280 0101 www.vietnamgolfcc.com Also known as the Thu Duc Golf Course, this facility just off Highway 1 has two courses, one following a more Asian style, and one with distinctly modern touches. Both 18–hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

LEISURE – GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

www.saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long–established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Also offers walking trails too. Bus leaves from the Caravelle Hotel at 2pm every Sunday.

RAINBOW DIVERS

Buddha Bar, 7 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0913 408146 www.divevietnam.com Diving courses & trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu. Operates PADI–National Geographic Dive Centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 members, including Japanese, American, Canadian and Taiwanese players. Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

www.thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts club, which runs a competitive league for 14 pub–based teams. Check out the website for details on how to get involved and to see the recent 180 scores.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

www.saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball.

Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball@gmail.com A friendly mixed netball league, running on Monday nights, is open to both men and women from the ages of 8 years old and upwards (including an adults competition). If you are interested in playing, whether as a team or an individual, please contact The Shooters by email.

SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the squash court. For new players or those without a partner, there is a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets can be rented and balls are provided inclusive. Book in advance. Day rate is VND250,000 for use of all facilities.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to noon. Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James (Tornados HC) on 0938 889 899 or Rina at rinabakher@ yahoo.com.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 3pm to 5pm. For information how to get involved call David Jensen on 0909 458 890 or Tino Tran on 0903 042 014.

X–ROCK CLIMBING

75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: 6210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 2. Prices start at VND170,000 for a group pass of four,

with a two-hour safety course costing VND500,000.

SPORTS CLASSES CAPOEIRA

25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail.com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance. Held near the zoo, lessons begin at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and at the same time on Fridays at DanCenter.

Admission is VND70,000 for one session or VND250,000 for four sessions.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

Tel: 7303 1100 www.saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

TENNIS KY HOA II

796 Su Van Hanh, Q10 Tel: 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH INTERNATIONAL TENNIS COURT

291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club. You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour, and all gear (including a ball boy) is available for rent.

seminars and workshops.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA

Tel: 0909 648193 www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

MY YOGA EXERCISE

Tel: 0128 630 5982 www.myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation. Also offers tropical Hatha yoga. Private sessions and group classes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 35149009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon’s luxury state-of-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week at varied times in a specifically designed soft floored studio. A host of certified, experienced international and local practitioners whose styles include Ashtanga, Power Yoga, Hatha and also Pilates classes.

SAIGON YOGA

Tel: 090 835 2265 www.saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a registered "Experienced Instructor" through Yoga Alliance. Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats & Trainings.

SHRI YOGA STUDIO

54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 5347 / 0913 764 776 www.shriyogavietnam.com Newly opened yoga studio focusing on Ashtanga Yoga and suitable for all levels; basic, intermediate and advanced. Prenatal and postnatal classes also available. Classes are held in both English and Vietnamese with internationally certified instructors in cooperation with Tirisulayoga Singapore. Scheduled 200hour teacher training courses (RYT200) are available throughout the year.

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 www.starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym.

Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non– member prices.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE

84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 3920 5813 www.soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in high-quality yoga training and yoga retail products, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and other classes with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally produced yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Also offers 30 per cent off yoga class passes and memberships on first day of every month.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES

Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency. VND220,000 per hour.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDEIS – SAIGON

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern & southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities. Private lessons are VND250,000 per hour, group classes for 3 or more people are VND160,000 per person.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6678 0914/ 0979 654487 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

YOGA & MEDITATION DR. SHIVA

shivaprakashyoga@yahoo.com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City for the last two years in a variety of locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. His yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga. Available to conduct personal, group sessions, health

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leisure & wellness VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP

saigongompa@gmail.com www.saigon-gompa.org Meditation group using specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism.

Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE

Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com.vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretarygeneral of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and non-Vietnamese speakers.

VIVACOLOUR

33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2 Lotus Road 28, Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 090 3873 599, vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailored-made relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music.

Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available.

Contact Pascaline for more information.

YOGA ANUPA STUDIO

17/27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.anupa.net/yoga-anupa The Yoga Anupa Studio is a place where students practice yoga in classes limited to four students with highly qualified teachers who can assist students and also adjust classes based on the group's needs.

A busy schedule of Kandalini, Sivananda, Hatha Flow, Yin, Ashtanga and Power as well as many other types of yoga is available throughout the week. Healthy drinks, breakfast and lunches are also organized to take back to work after class.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE Tel: 01266 626467, www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING

Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735 833 (Thuy) www.yogaliving.com.vn Conducting over 150 commercial and private classes a month, daily offers are Ashtanga based Hath yoga, Vinyasa yoga and Sivananda and classical yoga classes.

A larger second studio equipped with six classrooms and 14 shower rooms in the centre of the city provides a great

leisure & wellness space for a yoga workshop, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

YOGA SANTI

269/3 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 2110 www.yogasanti.com Operating to create an oasis of peace in Saigon, Yoga Santi strives to provide thoughtful and challenging classes for students of all levels while offering a variety of styles ranging from athletic to gentler classes. All teachers have received international training and are well versed in instructing Hatha yoga, Vinyasa yoga, Yin yoga, Hatha flow and Sivananda yoga.

YMC – YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3929 1707 www.ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes of different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow. VND400,000 for a one-week trial.

WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM

8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and an American-educated and licensed doctor of physical therapy speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, sports injury rehabilitation, and manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT

Family Medical Practice Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com www.saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with a Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Care 1, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com www.saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam.

Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation

GREGORY BEALE

2B1 Chu Manh Trinh Q1 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: 01268 654202 www.gregbealetherapyfitness.com American-trained and nationally certified massage therapist and National Academy of Sports Medicine certified personal trainer offering orthopedic manual therapy, corrective exercise and orthopedic massage. With a focus on pain management of back pain, shoulder pain and other muscular and soft tissue injuries as well as injury rehab/prevention.

Orthopedic manual therapy ends pain, helps regain range of motion and prevents re-injury with massage/manual therapy and exercise prescriptions.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, and special treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular etc), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders. Dr Kim has studied TCM in Korea and China and speaks Korean, Chinese and some English.

A Vietnamese translator is also available.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE

273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy – the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system.

English–speaking Dr. Le Hung can address all your needs in these areas.

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY – DAVID TRUONG TAN

Tel: 0903 098 124 www.osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

SARAH MARTIN

Tel: 0937 442 516, www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu. Home visits available.

THETA HEALING

Tel: 0918 591 933, www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information or to book a session call or email Jodie on jodieastwood@gmail.com.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOUR

Tel: 090 3873 599, vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture - alternative fields of health care that focus on correcting energy misbalance by combining the energy of colour and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for, but not limited to, muscular and joint pain, stress, sleep issues, jetlag, and tailor-made programmes for body revitalization, mood boosting, and to stop smoking. Other areas focus on treating asthma, ear infections, and general light children’s medical issues, as well as cosmetic problems such as skin wrinkling and sun spot removal. Contact Pascaline for more information.

COSMETIC SURGERY AMERICAN EYE CENTER VIETNAM

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 www.americaneyecentervn.com Excess eyelid skin, drooping eyelid/ eyebrow, ‘fat bags’ and hollowing around the eye or deep forehead wrinkles can be severe enough to limit vision or cause eye discomfort. American Eye Center Vietnam offers a solution with eyelid plastic surgery by an American Board-Certified eye surgeon providing eyelid surgery as well as Botox and cosmetic filler injections.

CAO THANG AESTHETIC CENTRE

135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn A range of eye and aesthetic procedures

are available at this modern hospital.

With state-of-the-art devices, services include laser vision correction, cataract surgery, hi-myopia treatment, Botox anti-wrinkle treatment, dermal filler (Restylane) treatment, eyelid reshaping, eyelid fat removal and brow lifts.

DR. TU’S COSMETIC & LASER SURGERY CLINIC

290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3836 7685 www.bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound– based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions such as hair transplants, eyebrow lifts, nose, eye and ear shaping. The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, carried out with the best equipment by expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems such as sagging, dull skin, unwanted tattoos and acne by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic has the latest therapies including laser hair removal, stem cell therapy, skin rejuvenation by IPL, Botox and filler hydrolifting, anti-aging and hair loss regrowth treatments.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures.

It houses state-of-the-art equipment, including fractional CO2 laser, Q-Switch Nd:Yag laser, Fraxel laser, and is the only skin clinic in Vietnam offering Digital Dermoscopy for skin cancer evaluation.

Other treatments include eczema, acne, psoriasis, laser treatments (wrinkles, melasma, freckles, scars, keloids); Botox, Restylane and Dysport.

s

DENTAL ACCADENT

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

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Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 822 8800 www.accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene

standards for your teeth.

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5411 3435 www.fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic minutes from downtown.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service.

Orthodontics is also available by a foreign orthodontist.

SMILE DENTAL

173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open Mon-Sat from 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm, closed on Sundays and public holidays. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Long–established, state–of–the–art clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6777 www.wescoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

HAIRDRESSERS ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal. Shampoo, cut & blow–dry for VND530,000. Mini facials from VND250,000.

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leisure & wellness ART HAIR 37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp– looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

COLOR HAUS 23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 www.colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean–based salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling.

A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you. A wash and cut starts at VND80,000 from a junior stylist. To cover grey hair, price starts at VND250,000 while a full colour and highlights range from VND350,000 to VND550,000. They also have a new nail care service.

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4625 Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated and rebranded her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a designer villa in Thao Dien, Q2.

Open daily from 9am to 8pm, a full new range of services is now on offer, including a dedicated salon for kids: Concept Kids. Only top products such as Alfaparf and Natural Rendez-Vous are used.

leisure & wellness THE SALON

21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

VENUS

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 Tel: 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look for a night out on the town.

YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist Ky The Guy (Cut and Colour Specialist), YKC Hair Studio atteacts a loyal expat clientele thanks to the well trained staff and friendly English-speaking environment.

Top industry products such as Tigi and Goldwell are used. A cut and blow-dry starts at VND550,000. Moroccan Oil treatment is also available.

MEDICAL

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP 119 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 SD-11,Panorama Phu My Hung, Tan Phong, Q.7 Tel: 5413 3300 Academy 117 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 3911 0915/3911 0916 www.kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this Singapore–based outlet provides hair treatments, from a simple wash and blow dry from a student (VND5,000) to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist (VND310,000). All services are monitored by highly qualified instructors. Appointments recommended. Open 9am to 9pm.

LE GRAND SPA & FITNESS

Grand Hotel, 8 Dong Khoi, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 08 3827 0309.

Open every day from 10.30am - 7pm.

A hair stylist with 16 years experience including a long stint at Park Hyatt Hotel, Tommy Bui now works as a manager at Le Grand Spa Hotel. His hair salon is modern and relaxed, the staff professional and sociable. All famous cosmetic brands like L'Oreal, TiGi and nail water OPI are being used.

A hair cut including washing and blowdry costs from VND500,000.

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CARE 1

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0757 www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI) – FOUNDATION ALAIN CARPENTIER

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine. A nonprofit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heat Institute to fund children’s operations.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC

8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1, Tel: 3823 8888 Well–established and well–regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with doctors (both overseas and Vietnamese) on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable, with a health check–up costing from VND400,000 to VND800,000.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider whose highly–qualified foreign and Vietnamese doctors can handle anything from emergencies to lab tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL AMERICAN EYE CENTER

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758/5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn.com AMERICAN EYE CENTER is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS 273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health– checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

CAO THANG EYE HOSPITAL

135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn Cao Thang is a comprehensive eye hospital overseeing 6000 surgeries per year (laser vision correction, cataract surgery and eyelid reshaping). English speaking staff, a member of the World Association of Eye Hospitals (WAEH), and quality assurance by the Joint Commission International (JCI).

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 Emergency: 5411 3500 www.fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, with maternity care a specialty. Hotline (24–hour) 5411 3500.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre conveniently located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

IFC INDIVIDUAL AND FAMILY COUNSELING HCMC

A 2.4 Parkview Building, Q7, 28/1A Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 0903 031280 libbyzin@yahoo.com With offices located in district one and Phu My Hung, this nonprofit counselling clinic offers sliding scale fees to all its patients.

For eight years in HCMC, IFC has been the only teaching clinic practicing western psychotherapy with attention to the values of other nationalities and cultures.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine. A non– profit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heart Institute to fund children’s operations.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. The International SOS medical team of expatriate and national doctors and nurses provide general practice consultations for the whole family.

Specialist care is available in many fields, including general practice, women’s health, pediatrics, vaccinations, physiotherapy/ osteopathy, dental and more. In-house pharmacy has a wide selection of prescription and over the counter medication.

STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordskin.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine.

Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open & doctors on call 24/7.

PHARMACIES INTERNATIONAL SOS

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The in-house pharmacy at this well-respected clinic provides an excellent range of all medications, both over the counter and prescription-only. Pharmacy managed and staffed by English speaking team.

SALONS FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 3521 0599 www.famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

JUST MEN

40 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services (starting from VND200,000), offers massages for the tired executive, with a head, shoulder and neck massage costing VND150,000. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

SMOOTH

pampered. What could be better than that?

G20-022, Rd. 6 Hung Vuong 1, Q7 Tel: 08485 4148008 www.smoothwaxworks.com The owners of Indochine Spa have opened this Singaporean-designed modern salon in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing waxing, nail art and mani-pedis to both women and men. Set in a relaxed atmosphere, Smooth aims to satisfy your cravings for luscious lacquer, silky smooth skin, happy hands and fab feet.

SPAS AQUA DAY SPA

Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

CAT MOC SPA

61-63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 6295 8926 www.catmocspa.com Established in 2010 and aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. Open daily from 9am to 10pm including national holidays.

GLOW SPA

129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 8368 www.glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes (VND400,000) to two-hour hot stone therapy (VND1.2 million), includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care as well as a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA

69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 3827 7188 www.indochine-spa.com Nestled in the heart of the city, Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with a range of aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by fully qualified therapists using 100% natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur Street, Q1, Tel: 6299 0563 www.mekongblissspa.com 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm) Located in the centre of Saigon, Mekong Bliss Spa is a top place to enjoy authentic Vietnamese spa treatments. As well as offering an impressive plethora of services such as herbal foot scrubs, warm stone therapy and purifying facials, part of the proceeds go towards helping disadvantage youth in the Mekong Delta, meaning you’re making difference while getting

ity service. Spa Tropic offers a complete range of spa services and an al fresco café with a healthy food and drinks menu crafted by a New York trained organic chef.

THANH SANCTUARY MIU MIU FOOT & SPA

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6659 3609 www.koneko.asia/miumiu 10am to 11:30pm (Last booking 10:30pm) Located in the city centre, and standing for “Nyanya” (or “cry of the kitten”), Miu Miu is an elegant and serene Japanese spa offering various body, facial and foot massages, as well as several nail treatments including manicures, polish and design, and scrubs. Massages range from 60 minutes to two hours and rates are from VND65,000 to VND530,000. The spa also offers Thann and Harnn, popular beauty products in Thailand.

Q SPA & SALON

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3905 4609 An old world, Indochine-esque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a deep tissue, hot stone or four-hands massage.

Also offers hair styling and facials.

QING SPA

110 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa above the foot massage salon that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service and members get a 20 percent discount off foot & body massage as well as a 10 percent discount on other services.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB

Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated with furnishings brought in from Thailand. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies such as massages and body scrubs.

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB

22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 2220 2600, www.spa1960.vn A luxury health spa located on the top floor of Sailing Tower in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Designed with traditional Oriental spirit, the spa focuses on offering both relaxation and health care therapies to all clients. Oriental remedies and therapies collected from the Traditional Medicine Institutes of Vietnam are used by the centre’s therapists and applied to the particular health condition of each client.

THE SPA

Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0290 www.thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 ext. 2235 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the

highest level. Six treatment rooms for women, four treatment rooms for men, one foot massage room and two VIP spa suites (couples’ treatment rooms) are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Treatments start at VND400,000 and packages are available regularly.

THE SPA AT THE DUXTON HOTEL

Duxton Hotel, 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxton.com Conveniently located in the very central Duxton Hotel, The Spa offers a full range of services including deluxe manicures and pedicures, aroma body massages, 60–minute foot massages, and the usual sauna and steam bath facilities.

XUAN SPA

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury downtown spa noted for its tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages (from VND900,000), facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

YKC SPA

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction for over a decade has firmly established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors.

Complimentary beverages are offered in addition to a complete range of professional spa services. Family owned since 1996, YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9901 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Spa InterContinental offers guests the professional spa expertise and a truly sensory experience. With an extensive menu, the Spa InterContinental provides the caring touch of the local therapists and the best of active pure ingredients and exotic botanical recipes, bringing to life Asia’s healing traditions.

SPA TROPIC

79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: 3910 5575 www.spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Established since 2002, Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional qual-

L’APOTHIQUAIRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3; 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1218 www.lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages (from VND550,000), facials (from VND500,000), sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing (around VND210,000). Also offers gentleman’s care.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In the heart of downtown and specialising in all forms of skincare, this is a well–designed and outfitted day spa offering body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments. Nice decor completes the atmosphere.

January 2013 Word | 127

STYLE LISTINGS

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 124 CLOTHING STORES 125 LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS 126 SPORTSWEAR 127 TAILORS 127 INTERIORS ART 127 CRAFT 128 FURNITURE & HOMEWARES 128 KITCHEN & BATHROOM 129

style DR. MARTENS

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings LIGHTING 129 ELECTRONICS CAMAERAS 129 COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES 129 MOBILE PHONES 130 GROCERIES BAKERIES 130 CATERING 130 GROCERIES 131 LIQUOR & WINE 131

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 2K BAG SHOP

362 Huynh Tan Phat, Q7; 193 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc; 55 Pham Van Thuan, Bien Hoa Tel: 097 7872 777 This cute little store has been gaining popularity amongst Vietnamese and foreigners alike. Although dinky from the outside, 2K stocks an impressive, colourful selection of purses, wallets, handbags, manbags, laptop carriers, backpacks and suitcases. If you’re hunting for a good value, last minute purchase, then 2K is well worth the visit. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND1.5 million.

ACCESSORIZE

B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9308 9am to 10pm One of the most instantly recognisable international retail brands operating inside Vincom Center, Accessorize pulls in droves of shoppers thanks to stocking an attractive range of globally sourced products, from beachwear and children’s clothing to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses and much more. Prices vary depending on type and design but generally start from around VND200,000.

ICONS 101 CASUAL WEAR

B.O.M SHOP

2 Thao Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 01283 221705 / 0986 024367 www.bandzofmonkeyz.com B.O.M provides imported, high-quality helmets from Italy and China, bean bags, authentic sunglasses from France, highquality raincoats for kids and adults, and other accessories.

BIRKENSTOCK

B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Stands out from the crowd thanks to its wooden and neon-lit frontage and eye-catching wooden shelves and boxes used to display its Birkenstock brand products. Selling shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany made with various designs and colours, there are also similar products for kids.

A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

BLUE DRAGON

1B Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm It’s hard to ignore this store as its frontage is painted in a stark lemon yellow. Well-known for its selection of recycled bags made from plastic feed sacks, coming in all designs and colours, the unique product selection includes colourful quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery, scrap metal animals and other such wares. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

CHARLES & KEITH FORMAL WEAR SHOES BAGS JEWELLERY ACCESSORIES SWIMWEAR UNDERWEAR

128 | Word January 2013

18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9306 9am to 10pm This airy, well-displayed and wellorganised Singaporean store has two branches in town. An elegant beige frontage stands out thanks to three large hanging posters. Sells women’s shoes, bags and accessories with a wide range of products from boots, heels and sandals to bags and clutches. Prices are acceptable for an international brand with a pair of thong sandals costing VND775,000 and leather bags starting at VND1.1 million.

There is also a selection of sunglasses from VND1.1 million and belts for VND600,000.

127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3832 3904 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm Dr Martens has come a long way from the punk era of the late 1970s when its boots first gained popularity as a hard-man (or woman) accessory. Indeed, according to a recent consumer survey, eight out of 10 urban Vietnamese teenagers own a pair of sandals from this global shoe brand.

Standing out thanks to its bright yellow signage, the street style and wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots that contrast from the 15-hole lace-ups from the past.

But then, with Dr Martens its all about the quality of the soles.

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

35 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6291 8162 www.galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm Located next to Jaspa’s and run by jewellery and furniture designer Vivek Chaudhary, this retail-cum-gallery space is decked out in white giving it a sleek aura of elegance. Specialises in contemporary and exclusive arty jewellery including rings, bracelets, necklaces and medals all displayed in U-shaped cases. The products are handcrafted and made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials consisting of precious metals, plastic, zinc or fiberglass. There are also exhibitions and gallery talks every month and the gallery stocks the work of guest jewellery artists. Check the website for details.

IPA-NIMA

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 2701 www.ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm Looking for fun, sexy, glamorous accessories? Look no further. Dubbed one of the most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery in Vietnam, Ipa-Nima is the brainchild Hong Kong-born designer Christina Yu. The flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes definitely catch the eye. Also stocks shoes, dresses and hats. Prices range from for bags, VND1.2 million to VND2.1 million for shoes and from VND3 million for dresses.

JEMMA

174 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3926 0270 www.jemma.com.vn 9am to 10pm A branch of the Vietnamese SJC company, the elegance and luxury of this space provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece. A coral necklace costs around VND900,000 while a silver ring with an angel hair stone is stocked at around VND1.5 million. A selection of bags starts from VND1.4 million.

MAI O MAI

67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4007 Mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool and funky jewellery.

There are also selections of ethnic bags, fabulous hand-made silver pieces and lacquer items. All products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000 and intricate designs cost over VND2.1 million.

The staff is friendly and speak English.

SERGIO ROSSI

146AB Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Located opposite Labella, the luxurious design and appearance of this quiet shop actually intimidates passers-by. Features upmarket shoes and bags made from high-quality materials such as crocodile or python skin and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads. Prices vary but a normal pair of shoes starts from VND21 million. Credit cards (of course) are accepted.

SKECHERS

115 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 9582 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm The award-winning SKECHERS is one of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. Now the number two footwear brand in the US with new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old, SKECHERS is fast becoming a popular choice with Vietnamese. The display is impressive with shoes in many designs and colours hanging on the walls. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

TDC SWISS WATCHES

VESPA SHOP

Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Located inside Saigon Square, this store is perfect for anyone looking to indulge in their obsession with classic scooters.

Stocking a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia from Saigon Scooter Centre, the wares include t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and much more. Rental scooters and bikes are also available.

YB DESIGNS

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 0907 168910 www.yimbaderjewelry.com Situated on the same site as Snap Café, YB is a small shop with simple décor, offering all kinds of jewellery including earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings. Most of the products are handmade and crafted from various gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite. Prices are affordable, depending on the type of gemstone and design, but usually start from VND50,000. Also offers custom orders.

CLOTHING STORES BUDGET

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3929 0685 www.tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm The wide signage on the front of the shop name checking a host of famous international timepiece brands means this shop is unmissable. Large and with in-your-face displays, TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. A funky plastic Swatch strap watch costs VND2 million while a classic gilded Longines strap starts at VND11 million. Also stocks high-end brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

MARATHON

TIC TAC WATCHES

PAPAYA

72 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 3519 www.tictacwatch.com 9am to 8pm The pleasant and steady sound of a watch stays the same. However, its design has evolved along with mankind.

So has the TicTac Company, growing from a family watch specialist store in Ho Chi Minh City in 1978 to an elegant black-and-gold designer watch showroom. Stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Baume & Mercier, Maurice Lacroix, Armand Nicolet, Mido, Hirsch and Swiza. Also provides repairs and battery changes. Time seems to never stop at Tic Tac Watches.

THERESE JEWELRY

9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3827 3756 www.theresejewelry.com 8am to 7.30pm A good place for luxury jewellery, this store is located on a tiny street in between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi.

However, it stands out thanks to its décor and design with a big wooden and glass door. Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, an oval pink stone necklace, a gold plain daisy brooch, all displayed in a U-shaped wooden case. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring. Men can also find a selection of cufflinks here.

147 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Even though their business card claims Marathon to be a sports fashion store, it’s actually a beachwear shop. With an orange frontage, this outlet quickly grabs the attention of passers by.

Displays many products in a simple and accessible style, offering colourful beach pants, t-shirts and flip-flops for men and women, caps, and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices range from VND110,000 to VND190,000 for a t-shirt, and VND140,000 for a pair of flip-flops.

171 Bui Vien, Q1 www.papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts for both men and women, which are manufactured in Vietnam.

Also offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. A part of the profit from each sale is given to two charity organizations, Poussieres de Vie and the Endangered Asian Species Trust. A t-shirt starts at VND189,000, a cap costs VND99,000 and a post card is only VND15,000.

ORANGE

180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3820 2620 152 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 5028 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults. Despite simple décor, Orange stands out thanks to the array of colourful products hanging on the wall including jeans, t-shirts, bags, sandals and belts. A selection of attractive hats and leather bracelets are also stocked. Prices are affordable with t-shirts selling for VND180,000 while bags go for between VND90,000 and VND600,000. Shoes start at VND400,000 a pair.

MID-RANGE BAM SKATESHOP

174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-cum-skate store has played a large role in the current rise of local, non K-Pop street fashion thanks to its branded mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps, accessories and more. Naturally, there is also a range of skateboards on sale, with the board and wheels costing anywhere between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

BOO

187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3926 0257 BOO embraces street style in clothing as well as decor — with a traffic light, zebra crossing and bus shelter complementing the shopping experience. BOO's Bo Sua and Infamous brands have their own street stalls in-store, stocking clothing and shoes made in Vietnam and designed by the young staff.

GINKGO

54-56 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0905 493148 www.ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run clothing store that also has an outlet in Nha Trang. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. Has a permanent photo gallery upstairs exhibiting the works of Thiery Beyne.

MAXXSTYLE

52 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Located next to Zen Plaza, this Vietnamese brand is one of the best-known shops in town for unisex clothing. Contains a wide range of apparel including jeans, tees, shirts, jackets, khaki trousers and much more, all displayed in a huge retail space. Stocks many different designs, fabrics and colours, and prices are good. A pair of men’s jeans starts at VND500,000, and VND450,000 for women, while a female shirt costs about VND300,000 and VND279,000 for a printed male tee.

NINOMAXX

118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3824 9689 www.ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm A brother of Maxxstyle, this brand is well-known locally for both its men’s and women’s clothing. Set in a large, two-floor space, Ninomax stands out thanks to its large white-painted Renaissancestyle columns. Despite its size, a lack of adequate lighting gives the shop a slightly darker feel. Has the same prices as Maxxstyle and also stocks similar products.

MID TO TOP BOSSINI

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3839 2292 9am to 10pm This Hong Kong-brand retailer sells both male and female casual wear, including jeans, khaki trousers, tees and shirts.

Although carrying various designs,

including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts, there are not many products. Prices range from VND900,000 for a pair of women’s jeans and VND700,000 for a shirt. Also stocks socks and belts.

ER-COUTURE

43 Thao Dien, Q1 Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com 9am to 8pm This Scandinavian outlet is situated on the first floor of An Phu market, stocking high-quality designer garments. Carries a full range of products, from floral dresses to tight tanks starting at VND1.8 million, as well as chiffon shorts and high-waist trousers for VND2 million. Shoes, bags, belts, scarves and hats are also carried as well as larger sizes.

D’BLANC

89A Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 5164 www.d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by the modern woman with a youthful attitude, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. A complete lifestyle collection that offers a broad range of stylish looks to take women from day to night and work to the weekend.

Accessories are also available. A dress costs from VND1.5 million.

FRENCH CONNECTION

L1-08, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7493 www.8lions.com 9am to 10pm Located inconspicuously on a corner of the Vincom Center, customers have trouble finding this generically designed shop. Stocks both casual and formal wear for men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts. Prices here are also surprisingly reasonable.

A male tee starts at VND750,000 while a pair of men’s jeans goes for as little as VND1.8 million. There is also a small selection of bags and belts.

GAYA CLOTHING

Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 Located on the 2nd floor of the Gaya, all the clothing here is designed and tailored-made by renowned FrenchCambodian designer Romyda Keth and concentrates mainly on women’s wear.

There are plenty of colourful and sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops. If it doesn’t quite fit, alterations are available. Prices start at VND2 million for a normal party dress. Also stocks a small selection of men’s shirts.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

85 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3829 4004 8am to 10pm The products of this Australian fashion label are displayed on the basement floor with contemporary ranges of casual and eveningwear fused with Asian designs.

The work of proprieter Hellen Holani, the apparel includes sweet floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Worth a visit with friends so you can also enjoy a cup of coffee at the in-house cafe while waiting to pick up your clothes.

IT'S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSET

89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com 9am to 9pm More than just a typical clothing store, It’s Happened To Be A Closet (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a colourful range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, but doubles up as a Wi-Fi friendly café stocking an impressive array of imported food and beverages, as well as artful jewelry, handicrafts, comestibles, accessories and books. Also offers manicures and pedicures.

LABELLA

85-87 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Located opposite Sergio Rossi, the decorative style and display of this Vietnamese fashion outlet is both impressive and endearing, using strong colours like orange and wood-brown to catch the eye. Products include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. A large selection of bags is displayed on colourful and eyecatching box-shaped shelves. Also offers night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

LEVI’S

47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3240 7460 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 3240 7461 9am to 9.30pm For cosmopolitans who love genuine Levi’s Jeans, there are numerous of the self-branded stores throughout the city.

Invented by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, the brand has become one of the most recognisable and imitated pieces of clothing throughout the world. The stores here offer a wide range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices vary but normally start at VND2 million for a pair of woman’s jeans.

LITI

40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Located near the corner of Pasteur and Ly Tu Trong, Liti harks back to Vietnam’s French colonial era. Stocking simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, other retro ware includes clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple black blouse starts at VND820,000 while an old clock costs upwards of VND3 million.

LOLITA

61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (opening Aug. 15) Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 (opening Sep. 1) Tel: 3925 9993 www.lolita.com.vn Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, offering stylish and comfortable easy-to-wear clothing for work or play

L’USINE

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm A contemporary shopping experience can be enjoyed at this fashion boutique, café and art gallery. A spacious, elegant Indochina-themed image of a 1930’s

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style French garment factory, L’Usine stocks exclusive labels from all over the world, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons tailored to the climate of Ho Chi Minh City. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, home-wares, nick-knacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MAI’S

132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2733 9.30am to 9.30pm Based on the ground floor of the Continental Hotel, Mai’s feels more like an art space than a fashion shop. Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories. Her renowned signature pieces include velvet and cotton ao dai reworked for casual wear, as well as hand embroidered vintage US army and flak jackets. Also stocks a fine selection of artworks. Prices range from VND1 million to VND80 million for clothes, and VND600,000 to VND40 million depending on styles and materials.

MANGO

40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 1136 96 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3824 6624 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3914 7464 B1-43 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9300 www.maisonco.com 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand is located in an impressively designed two-storey building with a black-painted neon logo outside.

The entire shop is well displayed with air-conditioning and professional staff, exuding a feeling of class but not luxury.

Provides a full range of clothing including jeans, tees, skirts, trousers, cardigans, leggings and much more. There are also selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million, and a pair of jeans starts at VND1.4 million. Visit the website for more Mango outlets in town.

MR & MRS SMITH

43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet, located in the same building as Dogma and Saigon Kitsch, sells a variety of men’s and women’s clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam for export markets in Europe, Japan and the US. All designs are brand new, delivered directly from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices (VND100,000 to VND70,000).

NGAN

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 6290 9391 www.nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Ngan has become a well-known brand due to their distinctive tailor-made clothing and designs. Stocks mainly women’s clothes, however, men are also suitably catered for. The entire shop is designed in a sleek and luxurious black with cozy lighting emanating from a pendant light fixture.

Due to the elegant and sophisticated designs and high-quality fabrics, prices are more top-end, with a party dress ranging from VND6 million to VND10 million a piece, and a normal dress starting at VND3 million. There are selections of boots, belts, scarves and jewellery boxes. Also does bespoke orders.

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style RAZ GARNETT

137 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, a wide range of sneakers and authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops.

Crocs sandals are also displayed in the middle of the store. T-shirts range from VND400,000 to VND900,000, VND400,000 for a bag and VND700,000 for sneakers. Also stocks sunglasses starting at VND400,000.

Has European-sized t-shirts.

SONG

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, Q1 Tel: 3821 5292 76D Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 6986 This t-shaped and turquoise-painted store is located on the first floor of Saigon Center, stocking the clothing of French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie. All the designs have a quaint, slightly Gallic feel and are made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000 and a spandex shirt goes for VND1.5 million. Also stocks shoes, sandals and a small range of accessories.

THUY NGA DESIGN

19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: 3820 3574 www.thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm With over 15 years in the trade, Thuy Nga is one of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam. This luxurious shop stocks both men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear. A long-sleeved women’s shirt starts from VND1 million while a male striped shirt starts from VND1.3 million. Also stocks jewellery and accessories.

UMBRELLA

35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Impressively designed with exposed brick walls, Umbrella is airy and well displayed with warm lighting exuding a comfortable atmosphere. Sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses.

Prices vary, starting from VND999,000 up to VND3,499,000 on selected items with more complicated craftsmanship.

TOP-END ANUPA

Eco Luxe Anupa, 9 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 2394 www.anupa.net Situated in a French villa-style home and converted into an eco-boutique, Villa Anupa houses the complete Anupa Collection as well as the products of Anupa Horvil's handpicked eco designers.

Anupa’s collection features luxury leather accessories including bags for men and women as well as many other pieces from yoga bags to belts. Other designers include Unit T bamboo eyewear, Miguel la Salle and Things of Substance to name but a few. Recently expanding to another location, Anupa has opened an Eco-Luxe boutique which carries a smaller selection of her collection. Both stores are open from 9am until 8pm daily.

CHLOE

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm Located inside the Rex Hotel, this Parisian fashion house is one of the most popular international brands with local celebrities

due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products. Chloe Saigon stocks a range of Chloe products, from low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes to Sakia bags. There is also a selection of glasses in many cool and contemporary styles and designs.

JUST CAVALLI

M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9005 9am to 10pm Contemporary decor with large mirrors and leather sofas creates the setting for a range of products catering for both men and women. The apparel of this Italian brand varies in both design and fabric, helping shoppers identify with contrasting international fashion trends. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million. There is also a small selection of bags and scarves.

MARC JACOBS

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel next door to Chloe, this urban American brand carries international-standard clothing and a wide range of sophisticated bags placed on wooden shelves, costing from around VND6 million. There is also a glass case in the middle of the store containing other accessories.

VERSACE

M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 9am to 10pm Spacious, well-displayed and stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, Versace is shopping at its most lavish.

The products come in many colours and fabrics, designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers. Prices are expectedly expensive; a well-tailored floral dress will set you back VND40 million. There is also a small selection of shoes and bags.

LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS AQUAMARINE

211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3827 5695 www.xuanthuswimsuit.com 8am to 8.30pm Situated on the corner of Truong Dinh and Ly Tu Trong, Aquamarine is a classy branch of Xuan Thu swimwear. A small shop full of colourful products, a step inside results in a sensory overload. Offering custom orders, the stock here runs the gamut from one-piece bikinis through to twopieces as well as monokinis and various types of beachwear with different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Also stocks a small selection of scarves.

JOCKEY

Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm One of the most popular underwear brands in Vietnam, the American selfbranded shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear.

Prices of imported clothing are slightly more expensive compared to domestically manufactured products. A sport tee ranges from VND150,000 to VND180,000, while a pair of long johns starts at VND200,000, with a sports outfit costing VND300,000.

LA HA

139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands in Vietnam, La Ha caters for both men and women. The shop is small and simply decorated but contains a comprehensive range of products with many different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini. Also stocks yoga and gym outfits.

SSUZI

127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm This brand is better known on Facebook than in The Backpackers’ Area. Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and two-piece bikinis starting from VND250,000. The shop has been designed well making it easy to search for the right swimsuit. Also stocks maxim dresses at VND380,000 and beach sandals at VND110,000. A small selection of earrings and sunglasses is available.

Search on Facebook for ssuziswimwear for new designs and promotions.

TRIUMPH

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, Triumph’s high-quality products make women look and feel good.

However, because of the form of the bra cup, this brand is considered to be more suitable for European women. The bras are plentiful and come in many different colours, styles and designs, while the pants look more classic and traditional compared to other brands. Prices vary but normally a bra starts at VND600,000 and a pair of knickers goes for VND200,000. Also stocks a small selection of bikinis.

WACOAL

94 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women in Ho Chi Minh City, Wacoal has more than 10 shops around town. However, there is a lack of product variety and the designs are quite classic. Compared to Triumph, prices are quite expensive with a bra ranging from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while pants start at VND250,000 per pair. No swimsuits. Staff are friendly, helpful and enthusiastic.

and looks like an army disposal store, with a comprehensive range of products, including flashlights, binoculars, climbing clothing, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags and even underwear and cycling gear. If you’re after any products related to travelling, then this store is a must.

something on the rack, get measured up then return a day or two later and pick up your custom-made garment. Alterations can be made upon request. An ao dai costs from VND1.6 million and a suit starts at VND4 million including fabric.

INTERIORS

TAILORS HOANG DUNG

270 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2240 5990 8am to 8pm Located on the corner of Bui Vien and Cong Quynh, this store offers a wide range of tailor-made clothing with all designs and styles, from vests to ao dais, and skirts and trousers. Customers can either bring their own fabric or ask the tailor to choose for them. A normal pair of shirts can be made in two days.

Prices are acceptable, with a vest costing around VND700,000 and VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including the price of the fabrics. Guarantees that all tailor-made clothing will fit.

ART APRICOT GALLERY

50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art.

Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars. Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

CACTUS GALLERY

17/12 Nguyen Huy Tuong, P6, Binh Thanh.

Tel: 0904959053 www.cactusartgallery.com Located near to the Fine Art University, Cactus Gallery was founded in 2011 by artist Phuong Quoc Tri with a desire to provide the art space to the world in general and Viet Nam in particular, both on a personal level and on a united one. Linking talented artists together for daily art events such as exhibitions, artist talks and art projects the gallery aims to erase the boundaries between Vietnamese and International artists as well as any art lovers, curators, collectors and art dealers. Cactus Gallery primarily focuses on discovering, supporting and developing young talent.

T&V TAILOR

39 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 4556 9am to 11pm Run by two Vietnamese sisters, Tricia and Verona, this shop offers tailor-made clothing for both men and women with the latest and trendiest designs and styles. Stocks a wide range of fabrics, which is helpful for those that don’t know where to purchase it separately. Find

GALLERY

244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

GALERIE QUYNH

MANDARINA

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 5267 9am to 7pm One of the most difficult things for foreigners living in Vietnam is finding the correct shoes size. Mandarina is a good place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes. They can even make shoes in 24 hours for around VND1 million.

Simply choose the design and colour and they will take care of the rest. There is also a wide range of ready-to-wear shoes, from sandals and peep toes to slingbacks and boots. Stocks a small selection of bags, too. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000 depending on style and materials.

from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards.

If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propaganda-printed tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

DOGMA

1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamese-themed stereotypes available elsewhere in town. Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

NHU Y

257 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers. Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHUONG MAI

213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists. Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a fourfloor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1

Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists. Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

TMG

234 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and well-organised space offers a comprehensive range of products.

An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

CRAFT EM EM

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists

SPORTSWEAR SPORTS STREET

A large amount of fine and affordable sportswear can be found around town, however, there are two main streets stocking sportswear in the centre; Huyen Tran Cong Chua, between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Du in District 1; and Pham Hong Thai, between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Loi. You can find everything for sports on these streets, from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma at ultra affordable prices through to the real thing.

U.BEST HOUSE

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 Tel: 3920 9187 9am to 11pm With its wooden frontage, this shop feels

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style favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-made-clothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

MEKONG CREATIONS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-creations.org A project of the NGO Mekong Plus designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia.

All products are locally produced, including paper mache, ratten, bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. Bamboo vases from VND350,000 and rag ranges from VND400,000.

NGUYEN FRERES

2 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house.

Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

83 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

style FURNITURE & HOMEWARES 20 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item.

Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

Home décor orders are also available.

53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3 Tel: 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets.

There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

A&W FINE FURNITURE

CLIC CLAC SOFA

AUSTIN HOME

Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs. Their products are stocked at AA Deco with Their products are stocked at Nha Xinh showroom.

BELLAVITA

The Crescent Parcel CR1-07/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by well-known brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware. Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT

209 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above.

Concerning itself mainly with the hand– woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

68-70 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks. Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

MEKONG QUILTS

CALLIGARIS

SAPA

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3914 2119 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-quilts.org A charity organization helping poor women in rural areas, all products are handmade with a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within 5-6 weeks. Also stocks accessories such as aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

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CHI LAI

4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interior-furnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock includes many covers in various colours and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

DIABOLO

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

ESTHETIC

11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-toorder furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

FEELING TROPIC

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks.

Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4640/4643 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted

and take about four weeks for delivery.

Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

GAYA

1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive postWorld War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally.

You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linen-embroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

HAFELE SHOWROOM

46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights.

The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

selection of sofas, tables and chairs.

Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

3B Tong Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6657 0788 www.thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

THE LOST ART

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture.

Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more.

Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

LIVING & GIVING

59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors.

Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

NHA XINH

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom.

Custom orders are also accepted.

Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials.

From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large

UNITY

12 Dang Tran Con, Q1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection— to give your home a sense of Unity.

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN

152 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3925 3648 www.verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custom-made items.

VIVACOLOUR

Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailormade environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your

customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

KITCHEN & BATHROOM CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1

It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

LIGHTING CAO DONG

Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand.

Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO

51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

LIGHT HOUSE

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials. Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE

98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 4634 www.mosaiquedecoration.com 9am to 9pm This eye-popping lime green-painted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories.

Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

VEKTOR LED

117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.VektorLED.com Vektor LED provide LED base replacement lights and T8 tubes that are easy to

install in current sockets. Using green materials (no mercury or other toxins), these lights provide an energy saving of 50% against normal Fluorescent lights, with 10-15 times the lifespan of normal lights.

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS CAMERA STREET

Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH

28 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES COMPUTER STREETS

Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

CARTRIDGE WORLD

81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0999 www.cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices.

With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of wellknown brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER

Tel: 0903 035 271 www.silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, professional, true HD and extremely small.

The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 7300 6666 www.elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million.

Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

LE VU NIKON

HOAN LONG

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million.

Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000. Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

MAT RONG VANG

Fitting & Services Centre, 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.goldendragoneye.com Ctrack GPS vehicle solutions. A world leader in real time monitoring and data collection, Ctrack GPS has operations in 56 countries and have more than 20 years of hands on experiences in solutions related to GPS and management logistics. Juotec T-eye Dashboard Cameras record events outside and inside vehicles with high-res 1.3Mb cameras.

PHAM THE

11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony. They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 3925 8999 www.hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products

by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million.

In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customer-service.

LONG BINH COMPUTER

50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 0699 www.longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers.

Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU

125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,

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style the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories.

Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM

42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1. Tel: 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN

428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3818 1188 www.tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here.

Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3825 7750 9am to10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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style THUAN MY CO.

227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3838 9164 www.thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

MOBILE PHONES GIA KIEN

352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3868 3733 www.giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more.

There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS

The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE

382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3526 5838 www.thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million.

Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG

182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292 www.thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo.

The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and specifications. The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices. Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A

328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3863 3333 www.vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where

customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

GROCERIES BAKERIES CAKEWALK

84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 6295 9087 www.cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS

54 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS

33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut.

The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING

30 Lam Son, Tan Binh, Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com www.harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

LA DORÉE

216 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 65 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, La Dorée serves up a variety of colourful and traditional French breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds, including baguettes, fougasse, and dieppois and montagnard sandwiches.

Desserts include passion cheese, tiramisu and chocolate mouse.

NHU LAN

64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

SIMRANS

SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com www.simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate. No preservatives or

hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

SESAME BAKERY

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOUS LES JOURS

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices.

Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread.

Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

sandwiches, fresh tropical fruit). Efficient delivery, all equipment and waiter service provided.

marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

REX HOTEL CATERING

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3829 2185 With the same team that feeds the guests at the Rex Hotel, prospective clients can be sure that the party they plan will be in good hands.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

41 Vo Truong Toan, D.2, HCMC Tel: 3898 9286 info@saigoncateringco.com www.saigoncateringco.com With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals. Experienced with every conceivable style, from the smallest dinner party to a stand-up cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow,

VOELKER

39 Thao Dien, Q2 www.voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

CATERING AU PARC CATERING

Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@ gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME

100 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western– fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

LE REUNION DES MARMITES

Tel: 08 6274 0647 www.lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more.

Visit website for full menu.

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE

Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties.

Reasonably priced.

QUAN BUI

Tel: 01286 252 351 / 3602 2241 (Mr Danh) High quality Vietnamese food at reasonable prices for the home or workplace. Caters for private parties, receptions, office celebrations, and conferences. Choose from an extensive Vietnamese menu (crispy spring rolls, chicken fried rice, sautéed prawns and cashew nuts) or mix and match with Western cuisine (canapés, dips, cocktail

ELECTRONICS SUPERMARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day. You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson.

In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices.

Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information.

CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET 590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm GIA THANH 975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE 133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm NGUYEN KIM 63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm THIEN HOA 277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa.vn 8am to 10pm

THE CATERERS

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY 84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128 info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget.

Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

YES! ICE–CREAM HOME DELIVERY SERVICE Tel: 3844 6099 A delivery service offering banana–on a stick, Öla premium ice–cream & frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice–cream. All produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

GROCERIES ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

AUSSIE–FRUITS

45 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Q1, Tel: 6291 8126 www.aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109 www.classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KITCHEN – QUALITY FROZEN READY MEALS, Tel: 0974 444 001

www.kitchen.net.vn Kitchen provides an alternative to takeaways with home-cooked frozen ready meals in biodegradable packaging.

Beef, pork, chicken and vegetarian meals cost between VND140,000-VND220,000 for 2-3 portions. Order online at www. kitchen.net.vn. Free delivery.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally– sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer. Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer. Open seven days a week.

LE COCHON D’OR

32 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry.

Sells both retail and wholesale.

OPERATION: TEA

Tel: 01693 583563 www.operationteavietnam.com Offering a line high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and tea ware. Tea tasting events are conducted by an experienced tea infusionist, who is available for private tastings as well.

PHUONG HA

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines.

Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA

60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers.

Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

THE OASIS

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 (inside Snap Cafe), Tel: 3744 6432 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5412 2449 The Oasis grocery store and gourmet shop was established in Hanoi three years ago and offers imported and local delicatessen such as cold cuts and cheeses from around the world, organic vegetables and many other homemade, artisanal ready-to-eat food. Specialties include homemade lasagnas, soups, raviolis, pasta and sausages.

VEGGY’S

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET SHOP

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 www.annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

BACCHUS CORNER

158D Pasteur, Q1 www.bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines

at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

74E Hai Ba Trung,Q1, Tel: 5404 3575 www.daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE

6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

LE TONNEAU

15D Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3824 6597 Overlooking the wine store on the first floor is the VIP room upstairs which caters to club members and those who take their wine seriously. Special wine– tasting every Friday. Call Patrick for more details (0903102418).

RED APRON

22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

TAPAS WINE CO LTD

2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com An importer of Spanish wines, Tapas delivers directly to your door. A growing list of products includes wines from the northern and central regions of Spain such as Elciego and Rioja Alavesa. Their website features their full portfolio complete with reviews.

THE WAREHOUSE

178 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VINE CELLAR – CASA HABANA

41 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 2284 www.vine–group.com The wine store represents hundreds of award – winning wines from every part of the globe and stocks an exclusive collection of spirits. Also, Casa Habana – Cigar Shop provides 100% authentic Cuban cigars, and luxury cigar accessories.

VINIFERA

15C7 Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

VINO WINE SHOP

74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

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generation v

GENERATION V LISTINGS BABY EQUIPMEANT 132 CHILDREN'S BOOKS 132 CLASSES & SPORTS 132 CLOTHING 132

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

EDUCATION 133 ENTERTAIMENT 135 KIDS' PARTIES 135 MEDICAL 135

BABY EQUIPMENT

ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odd ends.

PHUONG NAM

BABY

66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

CHILDREN’S SQUARE

270 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 2841 Pampers and Huggies nappies, baby bottles, bibs, buggies and other necessities.

ME OI

1B Ton That Tung, Q1 Tel: 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital with reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

MOM & BABY

230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3, Tel: 3932 1611 Closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

CHILDREN’S BOOKS FAHASA

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all

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1st Flr, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

CLASSES & SPORTS ALPHA GALLERY

10 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3822 4946 Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber runs six– week printmaking classes for children and adults, starting from the very beginning and working through to final prints made from copper plates. Other printing methods are also addressed.

DANCENTER

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4490/4340 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and more classes of all levels at this modern dance studio.

generation v GUITAR AND PIANO CLASSES

Mr Anh Vu Phi, another conservatory graduate now teaching at the International School, offers private tutoring in guitar and piano in Vietnamese and English for VND200,000 per 45–minute session.

He has 30 years experience teaching youngsters, and after a stint in Spanish city Seville now offers classes in flamenco, call him at 091 387 7884.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 (gallery and workshop), 88 Ho Tung Mau (FLOW – permanent exhibition) Tel: 0903 955780 hk.painter@gmail.com helenekling@yahoo.com www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults.

LIFETIME SPORTS

Tel: 0909 269511 mb@michaelbelmes.com www.michaelbelmes.com Group swimming, tennis and golf lessons run by Michael Belmes, the former Head Coach of the Vietnam National Polo Team and the Phillipines Elite Development Group of Swimmers. Prices start from around VND120,000. A Saigon Masters Swim Club is also being formed. Visit the website for more info.

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages

and levels for VND150,000 a session.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Steffen Christophe teaches introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard, and voice. With a diploma in guitar and singing from 10 years spent at the Geneva Conservatory, lessons at his home come from 25 years experience playing – one hour private tuition cost VND500,000 for students aged four to 14, and VND550,000 for those over (scb_music77@hotmail.com).

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

628A An Binh, Q2 Tel: 3898 9788 pcc@parklandvn.com Provides a range of leisure activities including sports and movie nights for children of all ages. Participation requires membership of this well–known country club. Email for more details.

PIANO CLASSES

Tel: 0122 5636 682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Offers a full range of piano lessons, from basic to advanced ones such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin. Suitable for kids of all ages.

RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years at Somerset, Q1; AIS, Q2: APSC, Q2; Sherwood Residence, Q3 & classes now available in Q7. Run by Elizabeth Hollins.

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generation v SAIGON MOVEMENT

Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Offering a variety of classes for movement development for ages two to 11 in An Phu and Phu My Hung. Saigon Movement aims to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports–based activities. Contact Abbie Klein for more info.

generation v anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. One class a week costs VND160,000 per week; two classes a week are VND800,000 and three classes a month are VND1 million. There’s an additional fee for non–members.

Contact Mr. Phuc on 0903 918149.

SAIGON SEAL TEAM

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com www.divevietnam.com Scuba Diving Adventures in a Swimming Pool for 8 + 9 year olds. 15 week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam.

RMIT VIETNAM

702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn The venue for a large number of sporting activities for children of all ages. Sports include baseball, softball, football (soccer) and more.

SAIGON PONY CLUB

42 Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn the correct riding technique from the three part–time teachers. Half–hour lessons with the engaging Amaury cost VND200,000.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

Tel: 0862 819790 info@SaigonSportsAcademy.com www.SaigonSportsAcademy.com Saigon Sports Academy offer coaching for children aged 4–16 years and private lessons for children and adults. They currently offer soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming.

They have a team of International coaches offering training for beginners all the way up to professional levels. Please check the website for details. Also offers a youth soccer league that runs on Sundays 2pm–6pm in District 7. Call 0932 153502.

STAGEMAGIC

Tel: 0903 145087, www.stagemagicbiz The city’s first stage school, offering youngsters between seven and 19 the opportunity to develop their acting and singing skills. The ultimate aim is to put on public performances at the end of each term. Cost for a 10–week term begins at VND2.1 million.

TAE KWON DO

BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes

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WATERCOLOUR WORKSHOPS WITH LINDSAY ERDMAN

Tel: 0932 102378 www.lindsayerdman.net Canadian watercolour artist, Lindsay Erdman hosts Saturday afternoon workshops for painters of all levels.

Work with still life, live models and flora while learning or refining a variety of watercolour techniques. Workshops held on a beautiful terrace in district 10.

Week-long workshops are also available.

CLOTHING 123 BABY CLOTHING

226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on good–quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

BELLI BLOSSOM

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3822 6615 4th Floor, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel:5413 7574 www.belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom is a shop catering to moms and babies stocking imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and more. Available brands include Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends and Gingersnaps.

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI

17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 3853 The emphasis here is on attractive and unique designs for the very young, encompassing clothing, pyjamas and bedding. A great place to browse for some memorable items.

THANH THUY

93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 4893 There are clothes for all ages in here, mostly made of cotton and reasonably–priced, with friendly English–speaking staff on hand to help.

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.smallisb.com With the belief that each child is a prince or princess, the store offers an exclusive selection of brand names in clothing, accessories and creative toys. Creative toy brand names such as Playmobil, Vilac and Trousselier are on display and clothes by international designers such as Sonia Rykiel, Petit Bateau, Baby Dior and Kiwi are also available. As an added touch, the shop has been designed especially for children so that they feel at home.

EDUCATION

School, students follow the PYP and MYP curriculum. Senior students follow the IGCSE – Cambridge A Levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies GRADE 12 Curriculum (UNSW). Focus on academic excellence, international student body, and exceptional facilities in quiet residential settings, qualified expatriate staff, range of co-curricular sport, creative, academic and musical activities and languages. Scholarships available.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com Three campuses offer a British–style education to moret than 1,500 children aged from two to 18. A centre for the UK Cambridge International Examinations boards, it is also an IB. World School, delivering the IB Diploma Programme.

programs for children to develop a love for learning and the essential skills, character, and intelligence needed to become outstanding leaders and achieve success and happiness in life.

COMPASS EDUCATION

15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3820 3302 / 3820 3202 information@compass.edu.vn www.compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education is a English language education company that offers a range of courses for teachers, students and managers, corporate and teacher training, nanny and teacher placements and career counseling.

ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel: 84 8 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com Founded in 1995, this international school of 800+ students drawn from 32 national backgrounds is served by 80+ UK expatriate teachers and 70+ support staff. It is the only international school in the city whose curriculum is wholly based on UK standards for all pupils from age two yrs (Playgroup) to 18yrs (Pre–University matriculation). Students graduate with IGCSE’s & A levels awarded by Cambridge University examinations board.

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

East-West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234, www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior school and a range of extracurricular activities. The new campus provides exceptional learning and sports facilities.

Offers international curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Xi Early Childhood Centre 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3519 2727 Early Childhood & Primary School, Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien,Q2. , Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior School, East-West Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com A co-educational day school with dedicated early childhood, primary, middle and senior school campuses. An IB World

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh Tel: 5412 3456 www.cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers co-educational classes from Kindergarten to grade 12 for local and foreign students. Talented, certified teachers implement the awarded Ontario curriculum to create a studentcentered learning environment. Focuses on academic achievement, character education and global thinking with a commitment to the arts and languages (Vietnamese and French). Students graduate with the Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognised by universities worldwide.

GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL – GIS

730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 7300 7257 www.giss.vn The German International School offers a unique bi-lingual German-English programme for students, from a variety of nationalities, from 2 to 16 years old. Its curriculum is based on the internationally recognised Primary Years Programmes (PYP), Middle Years Programme (MYP) and IB Diploma Programme of the International Baccalaureate (IB) system.

GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7257 A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. A language programme is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM

Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3827 7008/3827 7008 info@gymboreeclasses.com.vn www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0 - 5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in over 30 countries, making them a leader in early childhood development programs.

Recognized for their approach to parent involvement, their programmes encourage participation in, and understanding of, each child’s development.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY

28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com ISHCMC, located in District 2, has been successfully graduating students with an IB Diploma to high-profile overseas colleges and universities since 1999. ISHCMC is the only fully authorized IB World School in HCMC, providing an International Baccalaureate curriculum (PYP, MYP & IBDP) to all students, ages 2 to 18. It is fully accredited by the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of School and Colleges (NEASC).

CITYSMART

Cu Xa Do Thanh, 7, Duong So 2, P4, Q3 Tel: 3832 8488 Flemington Tower, 2nd Floor, 182 Le Dai Hanh, P15, Q11 Tel: 3962 1218 www.citysmart.vn CitySmart is an international education centre for children in Vietnam that delivers a range of diverse, internationally proven educational

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generation v INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL

92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 2222 7799 www.issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American standard-based curriculum taught by certified North American teachers. ISSP started the academic year of 2010-2011 with more than 100 students enrolled from 20 different nationalities. A brand new single purpose-built campus and state-of-art facility caters for nursery through to grade 5 (sixth grade added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese are welcome.

Unique features include Mandarin language classes, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTER

Ground Floor, Crescent Residence 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0907 099 480 www.kindermusik.edu.vn Kindermusik is the world’s premier Music, Movement & English language program for children from birth to 7 years. Each unit’s weekly lessons promote early literacy and English language acquisition, social skills and more. The learning fun continues with Kindermusik@Home materials, including music from class, musical activities and story time.

Kindermusik programs align with standards and/or requirements for the USA, UK, EU, TESOL Pre-K and IB Primary Years Program; and have been adopted by the National Teachers College of Ho Chi Minh City. Enrolments include a family activity book or digital

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magazine, along with high-quality CDs or digital music downloads, containing a variety of musical styles and genres.

There are over 6,000 Kindermusik Educators in 67 countries.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn School following the Montessori methodology for children from two to six years old, offering natural learning environments to complement the child’s natural sense of engagement with their surroundings. Also offers extra–curricular activities for children from three to 12.

PERFOMING ARTS ACADEMY OF HCMC

Tel: 0862819679, info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in piano, guitar, drums, singing, flute, clarinet, and saxophone by real musicians and experienced teachers. ABRSM Qualified. Group dance and drama sessions also available. Plus new vacancies in our popular Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3–5.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON

74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Q7 Tel: 3773 3171 admission@rissaigon.edu.vn www.rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides British/International education with native English teachers and state–of–the–art facilities. Students from more than twenty–five nationalities from age two to 18. RISS is an IB World School, a member of CIS and IPC, and an approved centre for IGCSE.

school, emphasising state–of–the–art facilities, a multi–cultural student environment, and a commitment to a well–rounded education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON INTERNATIONAL COLLEGE (SIC)

21K Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0938 371 760 www.sic.edu.vn An Australian-Vietnamese government project, SIC caters for Years 10, 11 & 12 and is under the Curriculum Council of Western Australia. All subjects taught in English by foreign teachers. Inspectors from Australia control teaching standards.

Students graduate with the internationally recognised Australian Certificate of Education (WACE), which gives direct entry to all Australian universities. Fees up to VND142,702,000 per year.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE

15 Street 12. Perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: (848) 3740 8081 www.saigonkidskindergarten.com Has evolved over 10 years to create a creative learning environment through play for children between the ages of two and six. There are 12 teachers, and the school limits numbers to 85 to ensure personal attention for all the children.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high

Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2, Tel: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn The school offers a British primary curriculum, supported by the Cambridge International Primary Program, as well as an integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

The school focuses on providing a stimulating learning environment, and a value priced education. A brand new 8,000 sq. meter eco-friendly campus, the largest of any primary school in Ho Chi Minh City, includes a pool, running stream and more.

SMARTKIDS

1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3519 4236 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre provides kindergarten and pre–school education for children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM

177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3519 2223 Fax: 3519 2224 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn info@tasvietnam.edu.vn A fully-licensed American school

programme designed by administrators and educators experienced in the development and operation of American and international schools.

An independent and private college preparatory school with an individualized programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a US-based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

THE LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten has joined Sisterhood with school in USA and uses same curriculum. It is the Kindergarten with the best facilities and environment compare to any similar size school in Vietnam

VAS

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3933 3655, www.vas.edu.vn VAS is one of the leading schools for teaching and learning development in Vietnam, providing from programmes from Kindergarten to Secondary school education. In line with their mission to educate an elite young generation with confidence to integrate into the world’s education, VAS also aims to develop its human resources by creating a professional and friendly working environment with attractive benefits for teachers.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS) 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Ben Nghe Ward, Q1 Tel: 3910 0168 / 3910 3266 contact@vlstudies.com R4-28 (Hung Phuoc 2) Le Van Them, Q7 Tel: 3602 6694 info@vlstudies.com, www.vlstudies.com This professional school has built a good reputation over 18 years. VLS offers set and tailor-made courses for all abilities in

high quality facilities with time flexibility.

Lessons can be taken either at school or at the learner’s office and home.

ENTERTAINMENT DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3825 7750 Diamond Plaza features a top–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options, with KFC and Pizza Hut.

PARKSON PLAZA

35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3827 7614 Over at Parkson Plaza there is a large selection of arcade games to choose from along with a bowling alley, with a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

X–ROCK CLIMBING

503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2, Tel: 3402 2542 www.xrockclimbing.com.

X–Rock Climbing is the city’s first venture of this kind. The facilities for children are excellent (children under 12 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian) at this 26–metre–tall wall, where you (or they) can climb up or abseil down. A day pass costs VND200,000

KIDS’ PARTIES A2

196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON

Tel: 0909 052502 dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing

environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

THE BALLOON MAN

100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn If you don’t know how to cook jelly, never mind, because The Caterers do. Although mainly focused on grown–up events, they will cater for kids’ parties as well.

MEDICAL AMERICAN EYE CENTER

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 5413 6758/5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn.com American Eye Center provides eye care services to Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 15 years of experience in US. Vision problems in children can be treated here: hyperopia, astigmatism, focusing problems, Myopia, strabismus and lazy eyes.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Three paediatricians make up the childcare speciality at this well–equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped paediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520, www.internationalsos.com Operating in Vietnam since 1989, this clinic is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. An internationally experienced general medical and pediatric team will meet the preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs of your child.

Emergency cases managed 24 hours a day. House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL

2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q.3 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Up–to–date well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care, alignment and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3910 4545 info@victoriavn.com www.victoriavn.com Victoria Healthcare is especially committed to paediatrics, and its services for children include general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

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Hanoi PHU LANG VILLAGE

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THE VILLAGE

Phu Lang Close to the border of Hai Duong, Phu Lang in Bac Ninh is one of the few traditional crafts villages still thriving with life.

Words by Hoa Le. Photos by Nick Ross

142 | Word January 2013

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would have been a decade ago. He has mastered a range of traditional techniques and has become a part of the local community. Every time you arrive in Phu Lang, the villagers will likely refer you to his workshop. Although they specialise in a range of ceramics and pottery, they are proud of the Buddha-themed art that Tuan has brought to the village.

No longer wild and undeveloped, the Phu Lang of today is full of charm, with narrow paved alleys connecting to the winding concrete roads. Houses with long brick walls and dark brown tiled roofs are at every turn, and located at the base of rolling hills it makes a tidy picture. A collection of clean and well-kept hamlets, the art is everywhere you look. Decorative ceramic bricks used for burial ceremonies, brown and yellowcoloured vases and jars, and other more unlikely ceramic products dot the village. It’s a mixture of good planning and design, with a touch of the spontaneous.

The wood that is used to fuel the kilns is cut and stacked like big square wooden frames in the middle of the green rice fields or in the alleys. In the courtyard of every household, jars, pots and other ceramic forms are placed in line after line waiting to dry. Next to them stand old and somewhat sloppy kilns, while the mess of pink clay used to construct the pottery is in the backyard.

Despite the industry, Phu Lang lacks the intense industrialisation of the better known Bat Trang, where trucks run back and forth transporting the ceramics all the while rolling up the dust and emitting fumes.

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Yet it’s a lively place. Even on a Sunday the work continues — every family is still patiently sculpting their wares.

Impervious to Time, Wind and Water Ask local people when the ceramic industry first appeared and they’ll tell you a long, long time ago. No one quite knows. It’s the same as when we ask an old lady who is steadily polishing ceramics on a banding wheel about when she first learned the trade — she can’t recall. The artisans here all started playing with clay when they were very young. So young that they can’t quite remember. And fashioning ceramics out of clay has been in their family for generations.

According to one online source, however, it started in the 13th century when Luu Phong Tu, a mandarin of the Ly Dynasty, was sent to China as an ambassador. It was there that he learnt to make ceramics. On his return he came back to the village and taught the techniques to the local people. “[Making ceramics] is our soul and breath, our blessing but also our curse,” says 80-year-old Hoan, a village elder who was once also head of the local ceramic cooperative. “The work has created a fortune for many, who have become rich and successful, and yet others do the same trade and remain poor. But in general, I’m very grateful because making ceramics has created jobs for the villagers. Everyone has been able to live on it.”

Traditionally the ceramic trade has focused on simple, commonly used products such as jars to store water or rice, pots and flower vases. More recently there has been

a demand for ceramics serving spiritual ceremonies. With the booming of the economy, more families have shifted to making ceramic coffins, which which are sold for traditional funerals.

Another more recent direction has been the making of ceramic paintings and artwork. Galleries now dot the village, exhibiting such works. Despite this growing diversity, the traditional methods for moulding, drying and firing the clay remain.

The clay used in the village is bought annually from Bac Giang, a neighbouring province and home to large numbers of clay pits. When I asked one woman how many cubic metres her family buys each year, she laughs. “We don’t buy [the clay] in cubic metres. We buy it in boats — small boats and big boats.” An average-sized workshop like that owned by her family, which only makes small pots and wine jars, uses up to five boatloads a year. Bigger households, mostly those making the ceramic coffins, buy up to 30.

The traditional technique of using wood fire to burn the clay is also still in use. Wood is collected from all over the country and stacked in organised piles to dry. Before doi moi when the artisans worked in cooperatives, the brick kilns were placed all together in one spot — households fired their ceramics collectively. Nowadays, most families have built their own kilns.

Once the clay is shaped it is covered in a layer of glaze, which is made using natural ingredients from local tree bark and

alluvial soil from the nearby river. Then the clay is left to dry before being placed in the kilns and fired at temperatures reaching 1,000 degrees Celsius. The use of natural fire means that every product can turn out differently depending on where it is placed in the kiln.

A Promising Future There is a sense of contentment in this village — almost everyone we meet seems at ease. One old lady, probably in her 70s, still has a smile on her face when asked about her life as a ceramicist. “I was once the best sculptor in this village,” she recalls. “We worked day and night, and it was so much fun.”

A middle-aged woman whose house we visit tells us with a happy smile that she’s always busy with orders. “As soon as we take one set of pots out from the kilns, they are purchased. I don’t even know what part of the country those products will go to.”

As Tuan the young artist is preparing his next haul of statues for an international exhibition in Singapore, he can’t help but expressing how much he looks forward to receiving the final products. “It’s a great feeling the day when the ceramics are sent to the kilns. With hundreds of the statues going in at the same time, everyone is super busy.” He pauses. “And extremely excited, too.”

And with that, Phu Lang ceramics will continue crossing over the borders of the village and reaching out into the larger world.

Getting There To get to Phu Lang from Hanoi take Highway 5 towards Hai Phong, and then turn left onto Highway 1 towards Lang Son and Bac Ninh. At the milestone reading km136, turn off onto Highway 18 towards Pha Lai. Drive for 18km. Just past the 20km milestone turn left. You will see a sign for Phu Lang ceramics. Follow the road to the T-junction and turn left again. This takes you to Phu Lang.

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Tiêng viêt DU LỊCH SINH THÁI

Du Lich . Sinh Thái

“Sự trớ trêu thực sự trong xu thế du lịch sinh thái ở Việt Nam là đất nước này có tiềm năng trở thành một trong những địa điểm du lịch sinh thái hàng đầu thế giới.”

Các nhà hàng và khu nghỉ dưỡng của Việt Nam đã đi theo hướng du lịch sinh thái từ lâu. Nhưng chưa hiểu đúng nghĩa của cụm từ này, và xu hướng này hiện không làm gì để tận dụng nền đa dạng sinh thái của đất nước.

Viết bởi Doughlas Pyper. Hình ảnh bởi Aaron Joel Santos

G

iống như mốc meo mọc trên quần áo ẩm ướt, hay như mụn trứng cá trên mặt, hiện tượng mới luôn lan truyền rất nhanh trên khắp Việt Nam. Những dấu hiệu du lịch sinh thái xuất hiện với đủ dạng ở những nơi không ngờ tới. Họ cố gắng làm bạn chú ý hơn so với một rừng bảng hiệu đèn nê-ông karaoke và nhà nghỉ, chỉ khác là cách thức nhẹ nhàng hơn. Nếu như khả năng tiếng Việt của bạn không tốt, bạn sẽ lúng túng một chút về cái từ mới bí ẩn này - sinh thái.

Du lịch sinh thái là một hiện tượng mới.

Bạn có thể nhận ra điều này từ rất nhiều điểm du lịch sinh thái mới mọc rải rác ở Việt Nam, tuy nhiên, điều này rất khó để giải thích. Trong một con hẻm đường Ngọc Thụy, Gia Lâm, có một bảng hiệu mới chỉ dẫn thẳng đến Khu du lịch sinh thái Bảo Sơn. Ở khu vực đầy cây cảnh trồng trong chậu này, bạn sẽ thấy một nhà hàng, một vài ao cá và một con cá sấu ẩn mình trong bùn được xây bê-tông xung quanh.

Tới giờ thì những người thật sự hiểu rõ nghĩa của từ sinh thái là gì có thể sẽ hơi lúng túng. Nhân viên của Khu du lịch sinh thái Bảo Sơn cũng vậy. “Có rất nhiều cây và ao ở đây, nên chúng tôi gọi là du lịch sinh

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thái” – một cô phục vụ giải thích. Nói về vấn đề kêu gọi nhận thức về môi trường, hay cái con vật bị nhốt kia là cá sấu hay họ hàng nhà cá sấu, cô nhanh chóng chỉ ra rằng là chúng thuộc nhà hàng. Và “Chúng tôi không tuyên truyền hay nhắc nhở được về bất cứ điều gì” – cô cho hay.

Từ Ngữ và Ý Nghĩa Những ai cảm thấy điều này buồn cười nên tra từ điển từ “sinh thái” trong nhiều từ điển tiếng Anh. Buồn thay, sự thật là từ này được định nghĩa kém và khác nhau tùy theo tác giả. Josh Kempinski, người làm việc cho Flora & Fauna International ở Việt Nam hơn bảy năm, nhận định từ du lịch sinh thái là “một trong những từ không may. Nó vừa xuất hiện là mọi người nhảy xô vô nó và hơi lạm dụng nó.” Định nghĩa được chấp nhận rộng rãi nhất của du lịch sinh thái là một định nghĩa linh hoạt và nhiều mặt. Du lịch sinh thái bao gồm ba vấn đề chính: văn hóa, môi trường và giáo dục. Đối với một nơi du lịch được coi là sinh thái, nó sẽ giúp giáo dục du khách về con người hay môi trường, hoặc giúp đỡ để bảo vệ môi trường đó hoặc biết nếp sống của dân

tộc vùng đó. Theo định nghĩa này, tất cả các loại hoạt động không giống du lịch lắm đột nhiên trở thành du lịch sinh thái, như chuyến đi đến làng Mai Châu, nơi du khách có thể trải nghiệm nghệ thuật, phong tục, kiến trúc và ẩm thực của dân tộcThái, mặc dù trong một khung cảnh rất nhân tạo. Nhưng khu du lịch sinh thái Bảo Sơn thì không đủ điều kiện.

Trong khi định nghĩa quốc tế về du lịch sinh thái không đầy đủ, tại Việt Nam thì nó hoàn toàn không có nghĩa. Vũ Thế Vinh, người sáng lập công ty du lịch Handspan tại Hà Nội, tin rằng người Việt Nam hiểu du lịch sinh thái là “họ có cơ hội được về với thiên nhiên. Vậy thôi. Họ không làm gì hết ngoài việc có một nơi rộng rãi và cơ hội để vui chơi.” Đối với Vinh, du lịch sinh thái vừa là phản ứng với việc đô thị hóa nhanh chóng vừa là xu hướng dài mới nhất tại Việt Nam. Vinh nhớ anh đã được nói khoảng mười năm trước đây rằng trong tương lai, người Việt Nam sẽ phải trả hàng ngàn đô la cho xe đạp chất lượng cao nhập khẩu.

"Tôi không thể tưởng tượng được điều đó.

Nhưng đột nhiên, trong một hai năm qua, mọi người đều có một chiếc xe đạp. Đó là

điển hình người Việt Nam. Nếu điều đó xảy ra, nó sẽ xảy ra rất nhanh chóng và theo cách cách riêng của mình."

Một cách quốc tế, vấn đề tranh cãi và ý nghĩa từ vựng về du lịch sinh thái đang thay đổi và mở rộng. Như Josh chỉ ra "du lịch sinh thái là một cái tên sai nếu như bạn đang làm một kiểu du lịch ở tại nhà dân địa phương tại một nơi nào đó như Mai Châu." Trong khi đó, du khách ồ ạt thường xuyên muốn đến một môi trường nông thôn sạch sẽ nhằm hỗ trợ đời sống của toàn bộ một ngôi làng để khuyến khích người dân địa phương giữ khu vực sạch sẽ, không xả rác và nước bẩn – những thứ không bảo vệ được hệ sinh thái mong manh. Trong thực tế, nên miêu tả nó như là du lịch sinh thái trung lập. Ngày nay, một số lớn các thuật ngữ như “du lịch tự nhiên” hay “du lịch bền vững"đang bắt đầu thay thế cho du lịch sinh thái. Khi áp dụng cho Khu du lịch sinh thái Bảo Sơn hay Mai Châu, hai thuật ngữ này có ý nghĩa nhiều hơn nữa.

Từ trớ trêu tới đâu?

Sự trớ trêu thực sự trong xu thế du lịch sinh thái được hiểu sai ở Việt Nam là đất

nước này có tiềm năng trở thành một trong những địa điểm du lịch sinh thái hàng đầu thế giới. Hơn một nửa thập kỷ bảo tồn, Josh biết rằng "Việt Nam là một trong các nước quan trọng nhất trên thế giới về việc bảo tồn linh trưởng." Các loài như voọc mũi hếch, voọc Delacour, vượn cao vit và voọc Chà Vá xám chỉ có thể thấy tại các địa điểm hoang vắng tại Việt Nam, không nơi nào khác trên trái đất. Có một tiềm năng du lịch sinh thái quy mô nhỏ, cao cấp và đích thực cho các địa điểm này, phần lớn số tiền thu được để bảo vệ động vật và môi trường sống tự nhiên của chúng, nhưng là một trong những nguồn tài nguyên chưa được khai thác lớn của đất nước.

Tuy nhiên, cho tất cả các tiềm năng, động vật hoang dã Việt Nam vẫn còn là một bí ẩn lớn. "Việt Nam như một thương hiệu," Josh tiếp tục, "không xây dựng dựa trên du lịch tự nhiên chút nào." Điều này là hoàn toàn trái ngược với các chiến dịch quảng cáo của Incredible India, hay Malaysia Truly Asia – nơi nổi bật với đười ươi, voi và các động vật hoang dã nhiệt đới khác.

"Nếu bạn xem bất kỳ quảng cáo du lịch cho Việt Nam," anh nói thêm, "bạn sẽ nghĩ rằng không có động vật hoang dã ở đây."

Dù biết khó khăn, việc khai thác du lịch sinh thái hoặc du lịch thiên nhiên có thể thất bại, chỉ cần không quá chú trọng đến việc thương mại hóa.

Trên toàn cầu, du lịch là một trong những ngành công nghiệp quan trọng nhất của thế giới, chiếm khoảng chín phần trăm GDP của thế giới. Nó tiếp tục tăng trưởng mạnh mẽ, với mức phát triển hiện nay dao động khoảng bốn phần trăm mỗi năm.

Trong lĩnh vực này, châu Á là một trong những khu vực đang phát triển nhanh nhất, với Việt Nam là một trong những ứng cử viên xuất sắct nhất của lục địa này.

Trong thập kỷ qua, tốc độ tăng trưởng du lịch Việt Nam đạt được mức xuất sắc.

Khoảng 2,3 triệu du khách vào năm 2001, Việt Nam đã nâng con số đó lên khoảng 6.000.000 vào năm 2011. Trên thế giới, du lịch sinh thái - như một thuật ngữ du lịch tự nhiên bao gồm cả du lịch bền vững – là ngành du lịch phụ phát triển nhanh. Các con số thống kê cao này hứa hẹn cơ hội đầu tư từ những người đủ hiểu biết, Josh để lại một kết luận cho công đồng bảo tồn: "Nếu chúng ta không thể khai thác du lịch vì lợi ích của bảo tồn đa dạng sinh học tại Việt Nam, vậy thì chúng ta đã làm sai".

The Final Say PHO IN NEPAL / DEAD HEAT / THE LAST CALL

Pho in Nepal The last decade has seen Vietnamese cuisine spread its tentacles to the four corners of the culinary globe. Even the most unlikely destinations have not been forgotten. Welcome to Saigon Pho, the first Vietnamese restaurant in Kathmandu. Words and photos by Galen Stolee

W

hether you’re being served a steaming bowl of pho at the Copacabana in Rio De Janeiro, or just grabbing a quick banh mi on the streets of New York City, today you can easily get your Vietnamese fix in most of the world’s major cities. But surprisingly, there are still some places (relatively) nearby where its reach hasn’t quite been felt yet.

Enter Nepal, one of the poorest countries in Asia. Its capital Kathmandu, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayan mountains, has slowly emerged as a growing metropolis, and now offers every kind of cuisine under the sun. Every kind, that is, save for one. Either because of distance or obscurity, Nepal hasn’t quite attracted a Vietnamese presence — the city is home to a Vietnamese population of seven. That has now changed.

A Match Made in Phnom Penh Xiebao Uy (Bao) was born in Vietnam,

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relocating to Cambodia as a young girl.

Coming from a family of restaurant owners — her mother and sister both run successful Vietnamese food spots in Phnom Penh — she was surrounded by cooking from an early age. At the same time, Naveen Saru, a young boy from rural Nepal, was starting his career waiting tables at restaurants in Thamel in the backpacker district of Kathmandu. After graduating university and working for an American non-profit based in Nepal, he was transferred to Cambodia. How the two came to meet, as it happens, was all thanks to a faulty television.

Naveen had only been living in Phnom Penh for a few months. “One day my TV stopped working, so I called into the [customer service] centre.” And who should pick up but a young Bao, who had taken a job operating the phone line at the centre. “Workers never show up, just like in Nepal, so I had to call several times complaining,” Naveen recalls.

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“Each time I would reach Bao. She would be arguing with me, and I would be complaining about the service. Eventually we just started talking, and that’s how our relationship grew.”

Four years later they married and moved to Hawaii, where they lived together until 2010. At first, they had no intentions of settling in Nepal.

“We came back to visit my family, without any real plan,” says Naveen. But after spending a few months in the city, a thought slowly occurred to them.

“We didn’t see any Vietnamese food

“Each time I would reach Bao. She would be arguing with me, and I would be complaining about the service.

Eventually we just started talking, and that’s how our relationship grew” here, so there was this opportunity,” he adds. “It was kind of risky, and we had no idea if it would be successful. But we both had backgrounds in [the food industry], so we said why not? Let’s try it.”

And with that, Saigon Pho was born.

Easier Said than Done To call their endeavour a challenge would be an understatement. The pair quickly discovered a significant problem; most of the things that make Vietnamese food so, well, Vietnamese, are actually quite hard to find in Nepal. Bao and Naveen had to start completely from scratch.

When they couldn’t find the right varieties of vegetables such as Asian basil, bean sprouts and lemongrass, they started growing their own using seeds from Vietnam. In order to make the right sauces and broths, Bao asked her visiting friends

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and relatives to bring over pho, barbecue and sauce spices.

Eventually they found their stride.

“Today we make all our hoisin sauce and chilli sauce ourselves,” says Bao. “You can hardly find them here.” They’ve also managed to create their own pate and mayonnaise for banh mi. “Right now we’re trying to make our own soy sauce.” And although you can easily find Chinese brands like Kikkamon around Kathmandu, it’s simply not up to Bao’s standards. “It’s too expensive, for one.

And filled with chemicals. We make ours with soybeans. Vietnamese food is meant to be healthy and fresh, it’s very important.”

Not that there aren’t still challenges now and then. At one point last year, due to the floods in Thailand, their supply of rice paper for goi cuon (summer rolls) was completely cut off. And on certain (apparently very productive) days, people consume so much of the imported Trung Nguyen coffee that the restaurant barely has enough to cover the following morning. “We refuse to make our coffee with local grounds,” says Naveen. “People know the difference.”

A Local Hit Today, Saigon Pho boasts an impressive selection of menu items that extend far beyond the eponymous noodle soup.

Meals include everything from banh xeo,

to steamed basa fish (shipped direct from Vietnam), to one of the restaurant’s signature dishes — bun tom heo nuong, a variation on the favourite that includes spring rolls and shrimp along with the standard barbecued pork. With the variety of dishes to try, all featuring garden vegetables, homemade sauce, fresh meat and seafood, the food here couldn’t be more different than other neighbourhood offerings.

Positioned directly across from the ritzy Shangri La hotel in the embassy district of town, you might expect Saigon Pho to be flush full of international travellers looking to escape from Nepali food for a night. But surprisingly, it’s local Nepalis that make up about 70 percent of their customers.

“It was a bit difficult at first,” Naveen recalls. “Things like fish sauce, glass noodles with vegetables, we don’t usually eat these things.” But word began to spread, especially through Nepalis who had lived abroad, and eventually Saigon Pho gained a steady fan-base. Naveen counts himself among the converted.

“Look, I love dal bhat [an iconic dish made of lentil soup, spinach, chilli and rice],” he says. “It’s in my blood. But I cannot deny it. In the morning, I go for Vietnamese food. It’s just so fresh, healthy and good.”

Saigon Pho was opened in Kathmandu in February 2012. For more information do a search on Google.

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CRIME FICTION SERIAL

Dead Heat Russell Kemp, a former captain in the South African Police Service and now a Private Detective, has teamed up with former detective Tran Hai Duong.

The two men are on the trail of a South African serial killer who they believe is starting a new killing spree in Vietnam. All they know about the killer is his first name – Gerard. Story by Rob Marsh Part 7: Gerard’s apartment

R

ussell Kemp sat at the dining table in Nguyen Ba Hoa’s apartment in Saigon Pearl, Binh Thanh District. Ba Hoa is the twin sister of Nguyen Hai Hien, the murdered woman he had originally come to Vietnam to find. Spread out in front of him was the passenger list for the flight Hai Hien had taken when she had flown from South Africa to Vietnam.

Ba Hoa came to stand over him. She was a very beautiful woman despite the dark rings under her eyes. “How many people were on the flight?” she asked.

“Two hundred and forty-three.”

“And you think that my sister was killed by one of them?”

“Yes.” “By her boyfriend, the man named Gerard?”

“Yes.” She walked to the window. In the distance District 1’s tall buildings were emerging from the smog.

Eventually, she said, “My sister once told me that her boyfriend was a prince amongst men.”

This was new information. Kemp turned to look at her. “What did she mean by that?”

He asked.

Ba Hoa’s gaze remained fixed on the panoramic view beyond the glass.

“I’ve no idea,” she said quietly.

It was an hour later that the revelation came suddenly to Kemp. He called Ba Hoa to the table, pointing to a name on the passenger list. “Prinsloo,” he said, then again: “Prinsloo,” this time stressing the first syllable. “Could he be your prince amongst men?”

It hardly seemed like a real clue, but what else did he have to go on?

For a moment she looked at him. “How

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should I know!” she retorted.

There were three ‘Prinsloos’ on the flight, two women and one man. The man’s name was listed as Hendrik G. Prinsloo. The ‘G’ (for Gerard?) was intoxicating certainly, though Kemp was experienced enough not to get his hopes up too high.

Former detective Tran Hai Duong listened in silence while Kemp voiced his suspicions about the passenger Hendrik G. Prinsloo, then said, “Speak immigration,” before abruptly putting down the phone.

He called back two hours later.

“Man’s name Hen’rik Gerar’ Prin’loo.”

This time there was a touch of excitement in his voice. “Have address, too…”

Miss Bich Miss Bich was waiting for Gerard outside the door to her apartment. She was wearing blue jeans and had her hair tied back in a ponytail. “I ready go,” she said giving him a wide grin.

They had met only a few days before when she had pestered him to teach her English. In return she had agreed to accompany him to District 2.

Gerard managed a smile in return. She was such a pretty little thing, he thought, though he imagined that he had seen in her expression a moment earlier something he hadn’t noticed before — a flash of mockery.

But then Vietnamese girls were so sure of themselves. He recorded the impression for future reference. It was merely one more treachery, he had decided, in a never-ending catalogue of deceit.

He handed her a crash helmet. “My motorbike is in the basement,” he said.

As they were driving along the street Gerard saw in his mirror three people get out of a taxi that had stopped outside the entrance to his apartment building: two

men he’d never seen before, and a girl he instantly recognized — Hai Hien’s twin sister. He knew instinctively that they were looking for him and he suffered at that moment a swell of panic, quickly suppressed, a surge of resentment, then the adrenalin rush of excitement. He considered going back and allowing them to question him, but that was not his way. Better to continue as planned then work out his next move later on.

A photo album Mr. Liem, the manager of the apartment building, was stick-thin with long, greasy grey hair and a face pock-marked by acne.

“Mr. Pri’loo gone out,” he said morosely, “you come back later.”

That was when Duong warned him in not-so-subtle terms of the consequences of hampering an official investigation.

When the door to Gerard Prinsloo’s apartment finally sprang open, Kemp and Duong rushed inside but the manager remained standing on the threshold. The interior of the apartment offered high ceilings, casement windows and a Spartan assortment of furniture, but little else.

“He says he’s seen me before,” Ba Hoa said when Kemp emerged from a bedroom a few moments later. “The manager,” she added when she saw Kemp’s look of confusion, “He meant my sister. He mistook me for my sister!”

That has settled the issue, Kemp thought, though he said: “Does he know where he is now?”

The now eager-to-please manager had suddenly become verbose and was waving his hands in the air.

“He go wi’ girl,” Duong said.

“A young woman from downstairs named Ms. Bich,” Ba Hoa explained.“They left on

his motorcycle a few minutes ago.”

Mr. Liem’s head was swiveling from one side to the other when he spoke out again.

“He says that Mr. Prinsloo is a good tenant, that he always pays his rent on time,” Ba Hoa said with a bitter smile.

“Yes, I’m sure he does,” Kemp remarked.

In his mind’s eye he recalled photographs he had seen of Gerard’s victims, their throats slashed and bloody. To mask his discomfort he went over to the window and looked down at the flow of motorcycles in the darkening street below. He grasped the woodwork to hide the fact that his hands were trembling. “Has he any idea where our friend has gone?” he asked quietly.

Mr. Liem shook his head.

While Duong telephoned Dakao Ward police station and spoke to Captain Le, who was in charge of Nguyen Hai Hien’s murder, Kemp searched the apartment again. In the spare bedroom he found a photograph album containing pictures of a

number of young Asian women, Hai Hien included. There was also a photograph of a tall European in jeans and a t-shirt shaking hands with a much smaller Vietnamese man.

They were on a balcony somewhere. Behind them as a backdrop was the Saigon River.

Kemp showed the picture to the manager.

“Is that Mr. Prinsloo?” he asked.

Mr. Liem, who had been eavesdropping on Duong’s conversation with Captain Le, responded by nodding gravely.

While they waited for Captain Le to arrive Kemp and Duong continued questioning the manager. Gerard Prinsloo, it seemed, kept to himself, hardly ever received mail and rarely had any visitors. What kind of man was he then, Kemp wondered? A man who liked to travel? A man without friends? A secretive person? An ’excellent tenant’? A serial killer?

What disconcerted Kemp the most, though, was the uncomfortable feeling that he had missed something fundamental, that he had overlooked an important clue, as yet

unrealised. Also alarming was the fact that despite all that they now knew about Gerard Prinsloo, he continued to remain an enigma, merely a shadow with no substance.

Ba Hoa joined him in the corridor. “Are you going to be able to stop him before he hurts the girl?” she asked.

“I’m not sure.”

“You’re not sure of anything, are you!” she said with unexpected venom.

“That’s the one thing I am sure of,” Kemp answered softly.

Part 8 of Dead Heat will be published in the February 2013 issue of Word.

This is a work of fiction. All names, characters and incidents are invented. Rob Marsh is the author of 30 published books (both fiction and non-fiction). He has a special interest in matters crime-related and is the author of Famous South African Crimes and With Criminal Intent: the changing face of crime in South Africa. He currently lives in Ho Chi Minh City.

January 2013 Word | 153

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154 | Word January 2013

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the LAST CALL

After a stint in Beijing, one of Saigon's best-known chefs, KhmerFrench Sakal Phoeung, returns to Vietnam. Photo by Francis

BLENDING FRENCH GASTRONOMY WITH ASIAN TASTES... is something I let other chefs do and experiment with. I concentrate on what I know the best – Mediterranean cuisine.

WAITERS SHOULD… work faster, stop arguing, be seen and definitely not heard.

TV CHEFS… are showoffs.

Reality is in the kitchen not on the screen.

THE PERSON I LOOK UP TO THE MOST... is of course my general manager, Monsieur Courtois (ahahaha). Someone’s got to look up to him!

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING I'VE LEARNT IS... to be humble RETURNING TO HO CHI MINH CITY… was the simplest decision I have ever made. I was badly missing the traditional taste of Vietnamese pho.

THE WORK OF A CHEF… is a pleasure. I love spending all my days in the kitchen, creating new dishes and doing my best to satisfy all our customers.

EXPERIMENTING WITH TASTES, STYLES AND SPICES… is my passion. I have been lucky enough to travel all around the world, discover new products and flavours to help my cuisine constantly evolve.

LONG HOURS IN THE KITCHEN... might be boring for others chefs, but not for me.

156 | Word January 2013

and myself at all times. I always try not to take myself too seriously. I am a natural person who loves life.

MY MOST ANNOYING HABIT… is arriving late to almost every meeting. Whatever I try, I can’t seem to resolve it.

WHAT I CAN'T STAND ABOUT OTHER PEOPLE IS... when they don’t have passion for what they are doing. I also can’t stand people who criticise without being constructive.

MY DREAM... is to continue what I am currently doing for as long as possible. I enjoy cooking and giving pleasure to others with my cuisine.

Sakal Phoeung is the executive chef at Sofitel Plaza Saigon.