Word Ho Chi Minh City September 2012 by Word Vietnam

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

SEPTEMBER 2012

SSaigon ingles NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

MUST GO LA˘NG CÔ BANYAN TREE

Contents

wordhcmc.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

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KIMCHI CULTURE

Has the Korean community embraced Vietnam as much as the locals have embraced K-Pop? Find out

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IT’S A MATCH!

It’s that time of year again and somehow we’ve managed to rope 20 brave souls into putting their heart and ego on the line

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JAPANESE TANGO

A treasure trove of 2,000 shrines & temples are located on this isolated peninsula

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THE ROBBED REPORTS

First-hand accounts from victims of crime

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SHADES OF GREEN

See how Bob Allen changed people’s eating habits in Vietnam

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ON FAIR GROUNDS

INSIDER

Small farmers are levelling the playing field when it comes to trade

030 l Where the Children Are

Weird and wacky Vietnamese desserts to put you into a sugar rush

Twenty years and 4,000 kids later, Thao Dan is still continuing to help street kids

033 l The Bodyguard Without his protection, celebrities won’t stand a chance against frantic fans

052 l On the Watch Tips on how to prevent yourself from getting mugged

064 l Mystery Diner Xu and R.E.D. go on the table this month

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SWEET SENSATION

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LIFE IN RECYCLE

Not housed in a typical villa or house, this café is set up in shipping container crates

Trivia Buff Answers See p150 for the original puzzle 1) Dumb & Dumber 2) Aberdeen 3) 76 Years 4) Alvin Stardust 5) Bob & Earl 6) Sandstorm or Desert Wind 7) Blitzkrieg 8) Toto 9) Amity 10) Computers and he was chairman of IBM 11) Christmas Crackers 12) Can Can 13) Roberts 14) Bacardi Breezer 15) Teddy Pendergrass 16) Armadillo 17) McCartney 18) Hunting High and Low 19) Simone Signoret 20) Bering sea

COLUMNS 084 l Destination Zero 106 l Travel Promos 100 l Foodie Corner 106 l For The Record 112 l Road Rules 114 l Decks 'n Drums TIENG VIET HANOI 142 l The Village That Makes Mien Before the noodles are engulfed into your mouth, find out how they’re made

FINAL SAY 142 l The World According to Me Everyone’s striking a pose and posting it for all to see

142 l Dead Heat The body is found and clues of the killer are revealed

142 l On the Stool It’s fast times with Ross Stewart

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JAMES ALLEN Deputy Editor james@wordhcmc.com NICK ROSS Editor-at-Large nick@wordhcmc.com

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Crossword Answers See p150 for the original puzzle. Puzzle by Frank A. Longo. Edited by Will Shortz

Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Chi Nhánh Công Ty CP TM–DV– QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 54/26 Nguyễn Cư Trinh, P.PNL, Q. 1, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 / Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com

Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 161/CXB-QLXB/ ngày 18/01/2012 Quyết định xuất bản số 299 QĐCN/LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 20/08/2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2012.

The Prelude F

orget Valentine’s Day, now that Saigon Singles 2012 is underway, this is where the love’s at. Having scoured the city with romance in mind, whipped out our best puns and innuendos, chatted up Saigon’s most eligible men and women, made sure they were single, we now have 20 bachelors and bachelorettes and have matched them into 10 rather good looking couples. From jet setting pilots to high flyers in the business world, we’ve got the lot, and with adventure dates as the prize this month, we can’t wait for the Kodak moments that are sure to ensue half way up a climbing wall or during a Ghost moment at the pottery wheel. As always we appeal to

you, our readers, to whip out your phones and get voting. You should also keep your eyes peeled for next month’s issue for all the gossip, drama and potential love at first sight in the wake of the two winning dates. This month’s travel destination is the less known Tango Peninsula in Japan, right from the mouth and artistic hand of a two-year resident in the area. As well as stunning illustrations, J Muzacz provides an indepth look into a previously underrated area north of Kyoto, Japan’s former capital. We also visit the guys at Saigon Outcast and listen to their talk of recycling as a way of life, and we probe even more experts on issues from organic farming to the tough world of security.

INBOX

Not a week goes by without hearing about another friend or colleague getting mugged, so we decided to attack the issue with some gritty personal experiences and some dos and don’ts to keep you safe out there. Once again the drama continues with the third edition of Dead Heat where, in the words of a film we don’t remember the name of, s*** just got real. As ever we look forward to getting your feedback. To make it easier for you, you can now text your comments direct to our chief editor Christine Van. Simply drop her an SMS on 0947 074136 (please refrain from sending drunken texts). Alternatively you can email her on christine@wordhcmc.com. We look forward to hearing from you!

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

SEPTEMBER 2012

SSaigon ingles NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly Design by DH Advertising

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US EITHER BY EMAIL ON CHRISTINE@WORDHCMC. COM OR BY TEXT ON 0947 074 136 — WE’RE NOW AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

Confessions of an English Teacher From scheduling DVD lessons to coincide with hangover blues, to leaving 20 ungraded tests at the bar after last orders, here are confessions straight from the horse’s mouth. Words by Stephanie Cantrell. Photo by Charles Barnes Dave, 29 It’s not uncommon for people to fall asleep during a listening test when the CD is playing and the kids are all writing, but I somehow managed to fall asleep midway through a class feedback session while I was sitting at the front of the room. The teaching assistant had to come and wake me up. Is it bad that none of my students noticed?

Johnny, 23 I had a student who wouldn’t join in any of the physical activities such as changing chairs or racing games. I kept pushing her to stand up and participate with the rest of the class until the teaching assistant sidled up to me and told me the kid had a prosthetic leg.

Nadine, 27 I was trying to teach my class the word ‘contain.’ In true CELTA style, I broke the syllables down to make the pronunciation easier. It was only when I started drilling the individual sounds that I realised my mistake, as 18 ten-year-olds stood chanting, “C***! C***! C***!”

Sophie, 22 A lot of the kids are really small so you have to be careful where you put your feet. I made my youngest class gather around me for story time and accidentally kicked one in the head. If you laugh it off, they’re fine.

Emma, 22 My problem is pronouncing Vietnamese names. I walked into my teenage class one day and said, “Has anyone seen little Vu?” The intonation I used meant that I was actually saying ‘little boobs.’ The 15-year-old boys in the class loved it.

Andrew, 25 A junior kid kept [irritating me] in the lesson and wouldn’t listen to me or do as he was told. Just before break time a bigger kid pushed him over and he really hurt his leg. He looked at me from the floor to see what I would do but I just

MILEAGE OUT OF YOUR MONEY

pretended I hadn’t seen anything happen and let the drama unfold.

Gaz, 29

(The Buck Stops Here, August 2012)

I have a lot of banter and jokes with the kids in my classes. One kid came in wearing a black badge one day and I drew attention to it and started teasing him about it. I sarcastically said, “Hey, nice badge.” He replied, “Yes, Teacher. It’s to remember my brother who just died.”

I guess a dollar still goes a long way here. — Patrick

Jenny, 24 I’m sorry, but kids all look the same to me. I’m always calling them “You!” in class and have completely fabricated grades and comments when the reports come through and there’s a kid’s name you don’t know. Who doesn’t need to improve on their accuracy and pronunciation?

Rich, 24 I had a really young class and realised about an hour into the lesson that one of the kids had sh*t his pants. The assistant was out of the room and I couldn’t face dealing with it, so I ignored it and left him sitting in his own sh*t for the next half of the lesson. Towards the end of the class, I’d completely forgotten what’d happened and started playing a game of ‘change chairs.’ Realisation dawned on me as he waddled out of his seat and the unpleasant smell in the room intensified.

Katherine, 22

ETCHED IN TIME

I’d had really bad food poisoning the night before class and couldn’t stop farting. To avoid embarrassment, I kept sidling up to the kid no one liked and farting next to him before moving away. The whole class was convinced it was him.

Anna, 25

(The Accidental Engraver, August 2012)

One of my students finished her test early. So to stall time I told her to check it. She misunderstood me and fled the room, thinking she’d got every question wrong. I finally tracked her down in the ladies toilets, but when I tried to approach her, she turned the bum hose on me to keep me away.

28 | Word August 2012

August 2012 Word | 29

TALK OF THE TOWN

Well, this surely got the town talking! The stories are hilarious as heck. As a teacher myself, I’ve been known to behave in such a way before, but now I’m reformed. English teachers do get a bad rap here but I gotta say sometimes we deserve it. Also, it doesn’t mean all of us are like that, like in any profession, there are good and bad. — Donald

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Cool article on the engraver. I’ve always wanted to know his story because I’ve passed by him almost every week for the past 10 years and never had the courage to speak to him because my Vietnamese is so bad. Thanks for that. — Kevin

The Talk

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE

A Slippery Slope? I

Remember the Champagne? That there is so much negativity owes much to the memory of when the good times

8 | Word September 2012

truly flowed. Anyone involved in business in Vietnam for over five years remembers it well. Champagne corks were popped and money, as the Vietnamese saying goes, came in like water. Well, it didn’t exactly. But being beasts of comparison, a species that understands what is normal by seeing what is deemed to be abnormal, it is no surprise that impending disaster can now be spotted around every bend. Doing business, surviving and brokering deals right now is simply tougher than it was before. The fundamentals have changed, as have the demands. And then there are complaints about the economy. The dong is going to lose value by the end of the year (we heard that in 2010, 2011 and 2012, too). All the FDI has dried up. Development and building projects continue to stall. Lending is at a standstill. And this is just the start of it. But look at the stats and Vietnam remains in reasonable shape. The growth in GDP so far this year is at about 4.5 percent. Retail sales are increasing by about 20 percent per month. The CPI dropped for the first time in 38 months in June — signaling deflation and the end of rising prices — and prior to that for most of the year was almost at zero. The property market is finally getting some balance — more mid-range properties

BIG 2

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH

There’s too much negativity around. Time to get positive again t’s now four years since the credit crunch and the dramatic attempts to save the worldwide banking system. Europe, says its 700 million inhabitants, is in the throes of its worst recession since, erm, the last one. And in Asia, while the Middle Kingdom grows at a rate faster than the speed of Usain Bolt, so smaller entities such as Vietnam are grinding to a halt. Or at least they are if you believe the mood on the street. In Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, by all accounts July and August were a disaster. With everyone holidaying in Danang, Nha Trang or overseas, the country’s two major cities shut their doors and turned off the lights. “We had such a bad July, that we almost closed,” says one Saigon restaurateur. “[The last two months] were even quieter than last year,” agrees a Hanoi restaurant owner, rolling his eyes. An ear to the confidences of all and a sundry, he then starts on a tirade about the myriad disasters that are going to beset this country by the end of the year. There’s much déjà vu in his prognosis — similar tirades were heard at the end of 2010 and 2011. Fortunately, unlike Greece, Vietnam has yet to be swallowed up by the sea.

THE

are being developed (although, notably, the bottom end is still not being catered for) and over-inflated rents have dropped substantially.

Self-Fulfilling How well this country does is all about confidence. Confidence in business, confidence in the minds of consumers, confidence in the people calling the shots. And this is where Vietnam brings itself down. Morale. Spirit. Self-belief. It’s all not so good right now. Like a sports team that needs to be motivated to play well, so this country desperately needs that proverbial kick up the derriere. It needs to believe in itself again, believe that it is truly a place worthy of being in the first tier of nations around the world. It needs to hold an Olympics, without, of course, having to pay for the cost of it. And a Diamond Jubilee or two wouldn’t go amiss. The run-in from September to Tet is usually the busiest time of the year, the period where budgets have to be spent and everyone breathes a sigh of relief that the first half of the year is finally over. It will also be the most telling end of year cycle yet. If Vietnam can emerge relatively unscathed, then maybe there will be light at the end of the neverending tunnel.

DEBUSSY DUO A recital of flute and piano with Clément Dufour and Tristan Pfaff will be held at The Conservatory of Ho Chi Minh City (112 Nguyen Du, Q1) on Sep. 20 from 8pm. The artists are presented by The Antenna in Ho Chi Minh City of the French Institute in Vietnam and IDECAF. The duo will attack the works of Debussy including Syrinx (solo flute), En bateau, Le petit berger, Prelude a l'apres midi d'un faune and Arabesque (solo piano) and Fantaisie brillante sur Carmen by Bizet/Borne. Tickets are priced at VND100,000 to VND200,000 with a 50 percent discount for students; and can be purchased at The Conservatory of Ho Chi Minh City

SPACED

Sep. 16 sees Yoko (22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3) taken over by Cosmic Beat with a night of space age Electronica headed up by Daisuke Tanabe. Taking you to the cosmos and beyond will be Demon Slayer, Jase, Sleeve, Discocactus and, of course, Daisuke Tanabe. Taking inspiration from ambient, jazz, folk, reggae, and the entire canon of electronic music out there, Daisuke Tanabe assembles subtle compositions made up of distinctively miniscule layers of sound. Doors open at 9pm and admission is free

IN HOT PURSUIT

Wake Up Saigon, the group that organised International Pillow Fight Day, brings you Survive The Night. Participants must run to several checkpoints throughout the city while being pursued by chasers. First one to the finish line wins! Registration time is at 7pm on Sep. 22 at The Spotted Cow (111 Bui Vien, Q1). For more info, email info@wakeupsaigon.com

ALL THINGS ARABIAN

The annual, fancy dress Auscham Ball will take place on Sep. 15 at the Intercontinental Asiana Saigon (cnr. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1). The hotel’s ballroom will be turned into something out of Arabian Nights with live entertainment and a special four-course Arabian meal. Funds raised from the silent auction and raffle ticket sales will be donated to the Loreto Australia-Vietnam Program. This event is sponsored by ANZ. For more info and tickets, call 3832 9912 or email events@auschamvn.org

SAIGON COMEDY NIGHTS Two internationally acclaimed stand-up comics will be descending on Hard Rock Café at the end of September for the first Saigon Comedy Night. Organised in collaboration with Comedy Club Asia, a monthly comedy night in Phnom Penh, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta and Singapore, UK-based Australian stand-up Ro Campbell will lead the line. Having performed at the last six Edinburgh Fringe Festivals, Campbell has written for TV and radio, performed at the Adelaide Fringe, the Melbourne International Comedy Festival, several maximum security prisons and supported Russell Kane and Tom Stade on their 2011 UK tours. Recently The Australian controversially crowned him Scottish Comedian Of The Year. Also on stage will be old hand, Jonathan Atherton. The star of Discovery Channel TV series, Lonely Planet, Atherton comes with a list of accolades longer than his right arm. Described by Time Out as the type of comedian who “blows the audience away”, expect a high velocity, rapid-fire set full of gags, stories and more. Saigon Comedy Night will take place at Hard Rock Café, Kumho Link on the corner of Le Duan and Hai Ba Trung on Wednesday Sep. 26. Doors open at 8pm, entrance is VND150,000 and includes a can of Coors Lite.

September 2012 Word | 9

Just In the talk

the talk BOO YA! Hanoi’s favourite skate and street fashion store Boo (187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3) opens in Ho Chi Minh City on Sep. 8. Boo will bring well-known Vietnamese brand BoSua to Ho Chi Minh City as well as many other brands, catering for all the Saigon skaters out there. Keep your eyes peeled for summer promotions and for a sneak preview, check out www.boo.vn.

I SCREAM FOR ICE CREAM

Haagen-Dazs (11-13 Han Thuyen, Q1) has scooped out a place in downtown Saigon. Founded in 1960 and operating worldwide, the ice cream brand is occupying a French villa, redesigned conceptually to reflect Haagen Dazs’ desire to create ‘extraordinary’ moments for its hungry guests. As well as having over 60 flavours of ice cream to try, beverages and a view of the park opposite are all part of the package.

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ECO, TOO Anupa has added a new boutique to its collection, now open and stocking the same standard of luxury goods Villa Anupa is known for. Eco-Luxe boutique (9 Dong Du, Q1) carries both the Anupa luxury collection and many other brands such as ER Couture, Em Stationary, Things of Substance, bamboo and modal clothing as well as much more. Yoga vouchers for Anupa’s Yoga studio are also available at the boutique.

September 2012 Word | 11

the talk

The Buzz SCOOTER - MOTORBIKE FEST VOL 1 Over 300 scooters and motorbikes are on display at the Scooter Motorbike Fest vol 1 at Kumho Link. Along with vintage scooters and motorcycles there will also be high performance bikes including BMW, Harley Davidsons and more. Games will take place every hour, as well as live music in front of Hard Rock Cafe from 1pm until 4pm. DJs will be spinning before and after. Guests will also be able to take part in several lucky draws to win bike related prizes. Scooter - Motorbike Fest vol 1 will take place on Sep. 29 and 30 from 10am until 5pm

HAPPY CAMPERS Attention all, Barcamp Saigon is back on Sep. 9 with its annual presentations on all aspects of life in the city. Everyone is invited to come and present, share, listen and talk about their favourite topic, from ‘How to Create a Location Mobile App’ all the way to ‘Tiger Conservation’ and even ‘How to Date an American Guy Living in Saigon’. If you don’t want to present, feel free to attend to listen and meet new people. BarCamp will take place at FPT Software, F-Town, Saigon Hi Tech Park, Q9. Contact barcamp@barcampsaigon.com for more info

CYCLING FOR CHARITY Saigon Children’s Charity is organising a three-day bike ride on Nov. 23 from Hue to Hoi An, covering a total distance of 180km. Requiring you to just take two days off work, Saigon Children’s Charity will fly you to Hue where the three-day ride will take participants through the scenic beauty Vietnam is famous for. Highlights include the Hai Van Pass, a mountain road that was described by Jeremy Clarkson as “a deserted ribbon of perfection — one of the best coast roads in the world” and the UNESCO-listed Cham temples of My Son. A VND10,415,000 registration fee covers all costs of the ride, including your flights, transport, bicycle and equipment, support bus and all your meals and accommodation. Participants are also asked to raise a minimum of VND10, 415,000 which will go to support the SCC. For more info contact freddi@saigonchildren.com or craig.eldrid@saigonchildren.com

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UK FILM FESTIVAL The 2012 UK Film Festival themed London Calling is being organised by the British Council from now till Sep. 10 in Vietnam. This is the first time such a UK film festival has been held in Vietnam’s five major cities — Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Hue, Danang and Hai Phong. Selections for the London Calling film festival include Yellow Submarine, Love Actually, The Queen, Made in Dagenham, Defense of the Realm, Sixty Six and 28 Days Later, which showcase both the traditional and the contemporary sides of London. For the full schedule of films check out www.britishcouncil.org/vi/vietnam-artsuk-film-festival-2012.htm. Tickets are free and will be distributed at British Council located at 25 Le Duan, Q1 and IDECAF at 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1

THE JOKES ARE HERE On Sep. 20 from 9pm is comedy night at Bernie’s (19 Thai Van Lung, Q1) with laughs supplied by Jim Dale, a regular on the comedy scene in Arizona. Originally from England, Jim immigrated to America with his family shortly after he was born.

September 2012 Word | 13

Wired GREEN ELECTRONICS MUCH HAS BEEN WRITTEN ABOUT THE source of components and materials for today's growingly sophisticated electronics industry. Are they made, mined or fabricated under unethical, dangerous circumstances. Do they exploit the have nots in order to help manufacture gadgets for the haves? How does their usage affect the environment? How do they affect the consumer? Fortunately you can check the ethical and green status of your electronic purchases online with the website set up by EPEAT (www.epeat.net). Providing a comprehensive environmental rating system, the online registry helps users identify greener computers and other electronic equipment. Put into practice in 2006, the EPEAT system was conceived and developed through the collaboration of stakeholders from the business, advocacy, government and academic arenas. Its rigorous requirements and searchable product database allow consumers to bypass marketing hype and confusing product specifications. It also allows manufactures to showcase and validate greener designs and cleaner production. A quick perusal of the registry tells an interesting story. While East Asian manufacturers such as Lenovo, Samsung and Sony have the most products registered with EPEAT — over 300 in a couple of cases — so the likes of Apple Inc. only have 40. But more interesting is the credence attributed to EPEAT by a range of commercial and non-commercial entities. In early July, due to their new Retina MacBooks Pro not fulfilling EPEAT recycling and user-serviceable specifications, Apple announced that they were leaving the registry. The uproar that followed has seen them undergo a complete U-Turn. All meaning that fans of the new Retina MacBook Pro will not only have to wait a little longer to get their hands on the new product, but that being green in the electronics industry requires more than just lip service.

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ZERO TO HERO The 2012 Go Pro Hero Danang Triathlon is testing the resolve of practiced athletes on Sep. 29 from 6am. Aiming to promote Danang as a healthy and enjoyable city for all ages and nationalities, the event will consist of an Olympic triathlon and a Sprint Triathlon (half an Olympic) combining swimming, cycling and running. There will also be shorter, less serious fun races and children’s sports. The event will take place at My Khe Beach in Danang and Son Tra Peninsula, and will involve participants from both Vietnam and overseas. For info or to register, email philbozz@hotmail.com or call 0903 035271

AUTUMN IN MUSIC A classical piano concert titled Autumn Concert will be hosted by Terraverde at The Conservatory (112 Nguyen Du, Q1) on Sep. 16 at 8pm. The HBSO Symphony Orchestra will be conducted by meritorious artist Tran Vuong Thach and will feature special guest pianist Dr Urs Buchmann performing Anton Rubinstein's Piano Concerto No. 3, Op. 45 and A. Dvorak’s Symphony No. 7, Op.70. There are three types of tickets depending on the location of the seats, priced at VND300,000, VND250,000 and VND100,000. Complimentary tickets are available on a first come first serve basis. To pre-purchase tickets and request further information call Ms Huong on 0908 853686 or email her at huongduong@terraverdetravel.com

ON YOUR MARKS, GET SET…

GET YOUR HIGH HEELS ON

Regional race organisers Sporting Republic have announced their next international running race to be held in Phan Thiet on Sep. 9. The half marathon will be run on an elevated coastal highway overlooking the world famous beaches of Mui Ne, with the race beginning and ending at Sea Links City. Participants will have the option of running one of three distances — the featured race is the 21km half marathon, while a 10km and 5km run will also be offered. Registration for the event begins at around VND521,000 per person and can be completed on www.vietnamhalf.com

The higher the heels, the bigger the discount at Boudoir Lounge on ‘Cointreaupolitan’ cocktails. Four types of cocktails will be served including the Cointreaupolitan, Margarita, Side Car and Cointreau Fizz, and with music by DJ Kamel Night. The night starts at 9pm on Sep. 28. Boudoir Lounge is located on the Lobby Floor at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1

FAR AWAY

A solo exhibition entitled Faraway by Hanoi-based artist Do Tuan An is on show at the Craig Thomas Gallery (27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1) from Sep. 6 until Sep. 29. In his latest series of paintings, Tuan Anh invites us on a journey deep within his own psyche as he struggles to reconcile his current life as a metropolitan husband, artist and father with the halcyon days of his rural childhood.

the talk

THE FIVE AMIGOS Free beer, free entry and live acoustic music? We’re not joking; ask Hard Rock Cafe (39 Le Duan, Q1) if you don’t believe us. Saigon Unplugged presents five of your favourite musicians in Ho Chi Minh City for a night of live acoustic jamming, and you’ll even get a free beer for your trouble. The night starts at 8.30pm on Sep. 19 with Juram, Curtis King, Claudio, Davis Zunk and Erick Swackhammer.

LUCKY NUMBER 7 Multiple Directions, a group exhibition of seven young artists, continues at the Cactus Gallery until Sep. 8. Featuring Pham Tran Viet Nam, Truong Cong Tung, Pham The Mai Phuong, Nguyen Van Du, Nguyen An Thai, Ha They Can and Pham An, the exhibition explores many different themes and disciplines from landscapes and ceramic painting to hell. Cactus Gallery is located at 17/12 Nguyen Hay Tong, Binh Thanh, go to www. cactusartgallery.com for more info

EATING EUROPE Food from all over Europe is ready to be scoffed down at the European Food Festival on Sep. 8. A whole evening of eating, drinking and general merriment will be accompanied by live music, magic, lucky draws and even some belly dancing, all designed to help the food go down that little bit better. The eating begins at 5.30pm and guests will also have the chance to win some great lucky draw prizes such as dining vouchers for five-star hotels, vouchers for luxury resorts, fitness passes and the piece de resistance — a round trip to Europe flying business class. Ring 3827 2715 or go the Eurocham office at 49 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 to book your place. The festival will take place at the Windsor Plaza Saigon (18 An Duong Vuong, Q5)

SOUNDS OF TUNISIA Tunisian born Emel Mathlouthi brings her electro and trip hop rhythms combined with lyrics predominantly in Arabic to IDECAF (31 Thai Van Lung, Q1) on Sep. 6 from 8pm. Becoming a Parisian in 2007, Emel grew up in Tunisia where she was an architecture student, a young rebel and dissenter, using her years of artistic and ideological struggle as inspiration for her album. Said to evoke greats such as Joan Baez, her captivating style is lyrical, with powerful rock, oriental and trip hop influences, telling the story of a Tunisia through her eyes. Entrance is priced at VND100,000.

IT’S A MATCHA To celebrate the introduction of Matcha to its tea menu, Operation: Tearoom (335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3) is hosting a free tea ceremony day on Sep. 23 from 2pm until 5pm. A bowl of Matcha will be prepared in the Japanese ceremonial style for anyone who stops by the tearoom. Matcha has been prized in Japan since the 12th century when the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, chado, flourished. In addition to its rich history and flavour, it is renowned for its health benefits. One serving is equivalent to 10 cups of normal green tea in terms of nutritional value and antioxidant content.

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September 2012 Word | 17

In the Papers THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

the talk

VIETNAM INTERNET USERS ON A HIGH Vietnam now takes 18th place in the world’s top 20 countries using the internet, with over 30 percent of its population surfing the worldwide web. According to the Vietnam Internet Network Information Centre (VNNIC), by the end of June, the number of internet users reached 31 million (35.40 percent of the population), of which 4.3 million are landline broadband subscribers. The ranking maintains the country's eighth place position in Asia and third place position in ASEAN, according to the VNNIC — which is affiliated with the Ministry of Information and Communication (MIC). Binh said good pricing policies, especially those applied to 3G (third generation network) wireless access, will further increase the number of internet users.

VIETNAM NO. 1 IN COFFEE Vietnam has surpassed Brazil to become the world’s largest coffee exporter, according to statistics recently released by the International Coffee Organization (ICO). The country shipped a total of 14.325 million bags (1 bag = 60 kg) of coffee in the first six months of this year, 13.63 percent higher than the export turnover of Brazil, the ICO said in its June report on the world coffee exporting market. Vietnam’s coffee export turnover in June dropped by 23.15 percent month on month to 2.07 million bags, but the country remained the top exporter for the fifth consecutive month. Honduras made an unexpected increase as it outgrew other strong rivals such as Indonesia, Colombia and India to take third place.

MOTORBIKE EMISSIONS CONTROL Emission controls will be carried out every year starting mid-2013 for all motorbikes, except those that have been used for less than three years. The Vietnam Register is preparing a plan to put motorbike exhaust emissions under control in a move intended to ease pollution, said Trinh Ngoc Giao, head of the agency. The agency is planning to assign companies that are manufacturing and assembling motorbikes in Vietnam, such as Honda, Suzuki, Piaggio and Yamaha, to set up exhaust control centres since they already have equipment and technicians at their warranty centres. They will also repair vehicles that fail to meet emission standards. When the emissions control plan is applied, the owners of motorbikes meeting emissions standards will be granted a stamp as confirmation of exhaust quality, and motorbikes that do not meet the standards must be repaired in order to become qualified. Users of motorbikes without an emission control stamp will be fined by traffic police.

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1000-YEAR-OLD CHAM TOWER DISCOVERED The foundation of a Cham temple tower dating back to the 10th century has been unearthed at a 500sqm site in Phong Le Village, Cam Le District, Danang. Excavation work has begun. Vo Van Thang, director of the Danang Museum of Cham Sculpture, said the museum’s experts together with archaeologists from Hanoi are working on the relic site. The site covers an area of 256sqm, consisting of four corners of the tower, three side doors and one main gate. Director Thang said that apart from the vestiges of the foundation, no other artifact has been found so far.

HANOI CHEAPEST TOURIST DESTINATION IN THE WORLD Hanoi has been rated as the cheapest destination for travellers this summer, according to travel website TripAdvisor. Assessing the expense of visiting the Vietnamese capital between Jun. 1 and Aug. 31, the criteria for the ranking (TripIndex) is based on the combined costs for two people touring and staying one night at a four-star hotel, cocktails at a five-star hotel, a twocourse dinner with a bottle of wine, and two-mile long taxi fares. The cost of such extravagances in Hanoi were calculated to be US$141.12 (VND2.96 million). Asia has six cities among the top ten cheapest localities while European cities are the most expensive, with London firmly routed at number one at US$518.01 (VND10.88 million). The cheapest four-star hotel room in the survey goes to Bangkok at US$81 (VND1.68 million) per night, while the most expensive can be found in London at US$362 (VND7.6 million) per night. The top five cheapest cities: — Hanoi, Vietnam — Beijing, China — Bangkok, Thailand — Budapest, Hungary — Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia The top five most expensive cities: — London — Oslo, Norway — Zurich, Switzerland — Paris, France — Stockholm, Sweden

LOCAL BUSES TO STOP AT TOURIST SITES The Ho Chi Minh City Transport Department announced last month that it will open a bus route connecting major tourist attractions in the city centre starting on the 15th of this month. Bus number 127 will stop at major tourism destinations like the Reunification Palace on Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, the Saigon Zoo and Botanical Gardens, and several museums in downtown area. The bus will depart from Ben Thanh Bus Station. The route is 9.8kms and takes 35 minutes to complete. The line will run from 5.30am to 8.12pm with eight to 10 minutes between each bus. Ten new buses with automatic ticket selling systems will be used on the route, and are also designed to serve handicapped passengers in wheelchairs. Tickets will cost VND4,000 for the whole route or VND90,000 for a monthly pass.

OPENING UP PAVEMENTS Authorities in Ho Chi Minh City will be clearing pavements in an attempt to ease traffic congestion, officials said. The number of streets whose pavements are currently used for for-profit parking space will be cut from 160 down to 119. The HCMC People’s Committee will also clear parking lots entirely off of at least 36 streets.

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Word of Mouth

EASY ACCESS

BACK TO SCHOOL

As part of its anniversary celebrations, Commonwealth Bank (www.commbank.com. vn) have presented a new online banking platform. Enhancing customer’s banking experience with faster, easier and hassle free access by enabling them to manage finances online, myAccess provides an easy solution to conduct personal and business banking anywhere at any time. From now until Oct. 11, the myAccess premium backpack is available for any overseas remittance if you have an account with the bank. For more info, call 3824 1525 ext: 200 or 210

A new corporate scholarship programme has been announced by ACG International School. Under the programme, companies can apply for a five to 50 percent reduction on annual tuition fees for the schooling of their staff’s children. The programme can help companies save between VND145,600,000 to VND185,120,000 per year on employee’s children’s primary and secondary school tuition fees, respectively. For more info, contact myco.tran@acgedu. com

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APP-Y TRAILS A new travel app in IOS format is now available from City Pass, with all major destinations in Vietnam available by Nov. 31. Four complete Native Travel Guide apps have been created as well as many subsections derived from each of the existing travel apps. Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Halong, Nha Trang, Phan Thiet, Dalat, Hoi An, Danang and Hue will be covered, all providing detailed information and accompanied by conceptual design and extensive photography. For more information or to download the app, go to www.citypassguide.com/apps

the talk

YOGA TRAINING

Singaporeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Trisula Yoga will hold a 200-hour Ashtanga yoga teacher training course on Oct. 8. Tirisula Yoga specialises in conducting yoga and pilates certification courses, and will be offering an Ashtanga course in Ho Chi Minh City covering Yoga philosophy, a study in anatomy and physiology, practical work and teaching practice. The classes will be conducted with no more than 12 students, allowing more focused attention from teachers and masters for each student. For more info, call Kim on 0913 764776 or visit www.tirisulayoga.com

STILL WATERS Ho Tram Water Safety is calling for support in an effort to build a 25m swimming pool to educate children in water safety. An estimated 25 children drown every day in Vietnam, and the best way to combat this is to teach kids to swim. Ho Tram Water Safety is hoping to raise money to build a pool in Ho Tram in order to achieve this goal. With a design by Out 2 kicking the project off, they are now calling for contributions of materials, labour time or cash. If you would like to contribute or learn more, please contact hotramsafety@gmail.com

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FRENCH ONCE A WEEK

FRESHER & BETTER

After six years, Warda (71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1) has undergone a stylish renovation and is now open looking even more glamorous than before. The space has been redesigned, giving a more sophisticated feel through the addition of new furniture, large glowing mirrors, new lighting and plants on the terrace, all offering a more relaxed tropical atmosphere. The renovation includes a new wine list and cocktail menu, along with the introduction of a new MiddleEastern tapas-style menu. To celebrate their reopening, there will be a new happy hour from 5pm until 7pm from Monday to Thursday.

Originating in New York City ten years ago and in numerous cities across the globe, French Tuesdays is adding Vietnam to its repertoire. Parties appear pop up style in different bars; their first in Saigon was held at Chill Bar last month. Membership is free but only a member can introduce you to the fold, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s definitely a case of who you know. French Tuesdays takes place all over the world and aims to be a networking platform for both expats and locals. Keep an eye on www. frenchtuesdays.com for the next party

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SEPTEMBER CALENDAR TUE

MON

WED

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Sep. 10 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

THU

FRI

SAT 01

MULTIPLE DIRECTIONS. Until Sep. 8 at Cactus Gallery (17/12 Nguyen Huy Tuong, Binh Thanh)

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 8pm every day, except Sun. at Alibi

MARGARITA MADNESS @ Khoi Thom, 7pm every Wed.

ITALIAN MOVIES @ Pendolasco, 7.15pm every other Wed.

HAPPY HOUR. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck

STEAK & ALE COMBO FOR VND250,000+. Every Wed. at Hog’s Breath

AUSCHAM HCMC SUNDOWNERS IN SEPTEMBER 2012. 6pm at Bobby Chinn. Email events@auschamvn.org for info

SAIGON PLAYERS CLUB NIGHT. Every first Wed. of the month at La Habana. Email saigonplayers@gmail.com for info

FABULOUS GIRLS NIGHT OUT @ Level 23 Nightspot, Sheraton, 7pm every Thu. Free cocktails for all ladies

FITNESS CLASSES @ The Boathouse, 8.30am every Mon., Wed. & Fri. Email terronescyril@hotmail.fr for info

10 HIGHEST TEA. 2.30pm to 5pm, Mon. to Sat. at Strata NEW 2 COURSE SET LUNCH FOR VND185,000+. From Mon. to Fri. at Hog’s Breath TAPAS FIESTA & WINE through the night. 7.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

LONDON CALLING - THE UK FILM FESTIVAL. Visit www.britishcouncil.org/vietnam-artsuk-film-festival-2012 for schedules

HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at MM Bistro Saigon

DAILY VIETNAMESE COOKING CLASS @ Saigon Cooking Class, 10am to 1pm or 2pm to 5pm from Tue. to Sun. Email contact@saigoncookingclass.com for info

18 MUSIC QUIZ NIGHT @ La Fenetre Soleil every Tue.

SALSA CLASSES at 7.30pm & Romantic Night with Carmen & Brothers at 8.30pm. Every Mon. at La Habana

LIVE ACOUSTIC NIGHT. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Habana

DAILY BUFFET LUNCH. From Mon. to Sat. at Strata

SAIGON CITIZENS NIGHT. Every Tue. at Hard Rock Cafe

25 HAPPY HOUR with house wine, beer and cocktail. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Mekong Merchant

FARAWAY. From Sep. 6 to Sep. 29 at Craig Thomas Gallery

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HAPPY HOUR ON DRAUGHT BEER FOR VND30,000+. 5pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Hog’s Breath

COSMIC BEAT. 9pm Sep. 15 at Yoko & 10pm Sep. 17 at Oceans Republic

BOARD GAMES NIGHT. Every Thu. at Geisha

SBA MEETING @ Swiss Chalet (54 Pasteur, Q1), every 2nd Thursday of the month. Visit www.swissvietnam.com for info “SAIGON KIDS” PHOTO EXHIBITION @ My Place (195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3). Until Sep. 16

SALSA DANCING @ La Fenetre Soleil every Wed.

HOUSE COCKTAILS, buy one get one free. Every Thu. at Hog’s Breath

JIM DALE. 9pm at Bernie’s

FLASHBACK WEDNESDAY. 9pm every Wed. at Chill LIVE MUSIC WITH JURAM, CURTIS KING, CLAUDIO, DAVIS ZUNK & ERICK SWACKHAMMER. 8,30pm at Hard Rock Cafe

SAIGON COMEDY NIGHT. 8pm at Hard Rock Café

SAIGON POKER NIGHT. 7.30pm at Geisha

LATINO AMERICAN CINEMA @ Khoi Thom, 8pm every Tue.

AMCHAM PALOOZA PARTY. 6pm at Windsor Plaza. Visit www. amchamvietnam.com for info

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm from Mon. to Thu. at Koh Thai

LADIES NIGHT with Carmen & Brothers’ Live acoustic. 8.30pm ever Wed. at La Habana

MIXED SUNDAY ROAST FOR VND500,000+ at Hog’s Breath WANDERLUSTERS. 9pm Sep. 7 & 21 at Hard Rock Cafe

FRIDAY FIESTA. 9pm at La Habana

HOUSE SPIRITS, buy one get one free. Every Fri. at Hog’s Breath MICHAEL “SOLO ACOUSTIC”. 8.30pm every Fri. at Geisha WARAPO. 9.30pm every Fri. at Pacharan

PERONI FRIDAY’S @ Vino, 4pm to 7pm every Fri.

EUROPEAN NETWORKING NIGHT. 6pm to 8pm, email infodbav@gmail.com for info

27 LADIES’ NIGHT. Every Thu. at Bootleg JAZZ NIGHT WITH MARIEDEL. 8.30pm every Thu. at La Fenetre Soleil SALSA CLASSES at 7.30pm and Jazz Night at 8.30pm. Every Thu. at La Habana

SUNDAY LUNCH BUFFET. 12pm to 3pm at Geisha

HBSO ANNIVERSARY CONCERT. 8pm at the Opera House. Visit www.hbso.org. vn for info

I AM HIP HOP @ Velvet, 9pm every Fri.

CLEMENT DUFOUR & TRISTAN PFAFF. 8pm at the Conservatory

VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL HOT AIR BALLOON FESTIVAL. From Aug. 29 to Sep. 3 at Binh Thuan

EMEL MATHLOUTHI. 8pm at Idecafe

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm Mon. to Thu. At Warda

SUN

LIVE MUSIC WITH VERONICA NGUYEN. Every Fri. at Hog’s Breath

28 ONE NIGHT IN BANGKOK. 9pm at Boudoir Lounge, Sofitel Saigon

THE 6TH EUROPEAN FOOD FESTIVAL 2012. 5.30pm to 11pm at Windsor Plaza

AFL GAMES @ The Boathouse, every weekend GRAND OPENING. 6pm at VinGallery and Inspirato Music Centre AUSCHAM 'ARABIAN NIGHTS' BALL at the InterContinental. Email events@ auschamvn.org for more info

DJ NIGHTS @ Xu, 10pm every Sat.

IAN LUTZ “SAX NIGHT” at Geisha COCKTAIL MASTER CLASS WITH RICHIE FAWCETT @ Koh Thai, every Sat. Call 091 233 9138 for booking WATERCOLOR WORKSHOPS. Every Sat. afternoons. Visit www.lindsayerdman.net for info

BARCAMPSAIGON 2012. At FPT Software, F-Town Building, Q9

AFL GRAND FINAL with big screen live and free bar snack at Hog’s Breath

THE RETURN OF LUNA NEGRA. 9pm Sep. 14 & 28 at Hard Rock Cafe

VIETNAM SWANS GRAND FINAL PARTY. 9am at Boomarang. Email vietnamswans@gmail.com for info

HAPPY HOUR. Buy 1 get 1 free on cocktails and draft beer. 4pm to 6pm every day at Level 23 Nightspot

2012 GO PRO HERO DANANG TRIATHLON. Email philbozz@hotmail. com for info

SUNDAY POOL COMPETITION. 2pm at Red Bar

RACK ‘EM UP POOL TOURNAMENT. 7pm every Sun. at the Tavern SUNDAY PAELLAS & HAPPY HOUR. 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana GAME ON - SUNDAY DARTS at the Tavern

23 FREE TEA CEREMONY DAY. 2pm to 5pm at Operation: Tearoom

BIKE FEST. 10am to 5pm Sep. 29 & 30 at Kumho Link Plaza

AUSSIE MIXED GRILL BBQ FOR VND380,000+ at Hog’s Breath NRL GRAND FINAL with big screen live and free bar snack at Hog’s Breath BBGV HCMC FUN RUN FOR CHARITY. 6.30am at the Crescent

SCENE SOUNDS OF SUMMER The Curtis King Band gathered an eclectic group of musicians — from a banjo man to a zither player and everything in-between — to officially kick off the end of summer at the Hard Rock Cafe

PHOTOS BY KY NGUYEN

OVER

Last month saw the new VinGallery and Inspirato Music Centre collaboratively celebrating C Debussy's 150th birthday with an exhibition by French artist Zan Doan and a music concert

PHOTOS BY ANPHABE

A NEW SPACE

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY VINGALLERY

The Danish Vietnamese Jewellery Company (DVJ) showcased their new Autumn/ Winter and Spring/Summer collections in conjunction with the Embassy of Denmark in Vietnam at the Rex hotel

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY DVJ

SHINY AND NEW

Rooftop 23rd Floor, Centec Tower

NETWORKING IT Anphabe held a seminar titled “Networking — Keys to transform HR into effective business partner” with special guest Andy Lopata at the Hyatt

72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Just next to Diamond Plaza Tel: (08) 3827 9631 | Fax: (08) 3827 9632

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September 2012 Word | 27

Insider

THE BODYGUARD / KIMCHI CULTURE / IT'S A MATCH! PHOTO BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

schooling as well as playing time. — Those who live in vulnerable circumstances, are disadvantaged, are at risk of being abused, face violence, use drugs and exploited and trafficked. — Immigrant children who follow their caregivers to work and earn a living on the streets, lack proper care and love from their families. — Those who face traumas such as losing parent(s) because of divorce, prison sentences, accidents, illness and so on Have you ever turned away children? We always do our best for a child in need. However, there are some cases where we cannot support them because our services focus on children under 16 years old. [We cannot help] children with mental problems and young adults addicted to drugs. We sometimes turn away children in the following cases: — They go back home to a place that is a long distance from the city. — The children mature and start working. — Children accompany their caregivers for seasonal jobs at work sites. — Families do not cooperate successfully and/or support a child effectively. How do you raise funds and support for the centre? Fundraising and support are from several sources: — INGOs are the main donors (but the number is decreasing as many INGOs have left Vietnam) — Companies, friends both domestic and internationally — The local community (the business people of a nearby market donating food

and services) — Income generating activities (children’s paintings exhibitions, charity fairs and bank interest) — Local authorities Who is your most successful story? I don’t have any most successful story. Every child’s problem is a challenge for me. A boy name V. came from L.A. [Long An] at the age of 14. He left his family for the city park with his friends. Thao Dan met him and sent him to the centre and he was able to go to school. Then he took on vocational training to be a barber. The centre contacted his family to send him back home. After that, he started to work for a factory, and in his free time he volunteers to help other children with haircuts in the community. So far, the centre keeps in contact with him via phone calls. Do you get support from the government? The government mainly supports us with implementing the latest law documents and welfare procedures for disadvantaged children. In the past, the centre received funding for a home reunification project for street children within a support agreement between DOLISA and EU. When donations are made, is the distribution of cash transparent? Are donors able to see where it goes? Thao Dan’s accounting system is clear, accurate and trustful. We submit our monthly financial reports to the concerned local authorities and we are

under an administration by an accounting government office. INGOs conduct yearly account audits of our projects. We are responsible for sending our donation reports to individual and organisation sponsors. As director of Thao Dan, I am the person legally responsible to the government. What does the centre do to help children and their families? What is the core goal of Thao Dan? The main activities are outreach activities, providing urgent aid to street children and basic care and protection services that include: 1) Health care, nutrition, legal aid, family visits and reintegration. Educational and recreational activities, case management and referral to other services. 2) A safe house for abandoned children or children without any family support. 3) Half-day boarding classes — half-day in public school with lunch, homework and activities. 4) A social club for children with diverse classes and activities such as an English language course, computer, dance, circus and more 5) Counselling for children and parents, vocational training and job placement 6) Income generating activities We work for the care and the protection of children living in difficult circumstances by giving them opportunities and conditions for family and society reintegration, and promoting the respect and the implimentation of the rights of the child. For more info on the center, visit www. thaodan.org.vn

CHARITY CORNER

Where the Children Are Now celebrating its 20th year in service, Christine Van speaks to Thao Dan Child Centre’s director Nguyen Thi Thu Thuy about its work and the rights of every child. Photos by Quinn Ryan Mattingly How did you get involved with the centre? It was a discovery. In 1992, I started working at a Swiss organisation named Terre des Hommes Lausanne (Tdh). At that time, Tdh carried out research on the situation of street children in Ho Chi Minh City in order to build support for street children projects and seek local partners. I came upon an article in Tuoi Tre newspaper which said that “... there is a group of young people who regularly spend time playing with street children at

30 | Word September 2012

the zoo on Thursdays...” I took Tim Bond, a Tdh delegate, to go and meet them. After that, we had several long discussions on the street children project. Tim said that there was “flaming passion” in these youths so Tdh began work with them. However, the project was unsuccessful because Tdh could not work with a partner that didn’t have legal status. Meanwhile Thao Dan had also refused the collaboration due to its difficulty in getting legal recognition at that time. Also, most of the youths had their own jobs so they were

working for the group voluntarily. That is when I became a volunteer for Thao Dan. In 2005 I left Tdh and officially worked for Thao Dan. What requirements must the children meet before the centre can help them? They are as follows: — Children earning a living at an early age on the streets and those who work too many hours in a dangerous environment. — Those who do not have personal legal papers, opportunity/access to proper

September 2012 Word | 31

TALKING SHOP

The Bodyguard Your safety is his concern. Words by James Pham. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

ociety has become obsessed with celebrities. With the pervasiveness of the internet, gossip magazines and entertainment-related TV shows, anyone can gain immediate access to information about their favourite stars — who’s romancing who, how much plastic surgery is on that face, what latest diet craze they’re on and everything else under the glittering sun. But seeing a celebrity in real life takes it to another level. While an odd encounter with a single fan looking for a photo to tweet or autograph to cherish is part of celebrity life for stars from the world of screen, song or sports, multiply that by a few thousand delirious, screaming ones intent on getting everything from a handshake or a more space-invading hug, kiss or momento, and personal security becomes a real issue. Enter Rod Stubbs, aka ‘The Bodyguard’. The interview with Rod is set at a small table in the crowded lounge at Strata, the establishment on the 50th floor of the Bitexco Tower. In walks a tall, stocky man dressed all in black and sporting dark sunglasses (which remained on during the entire interview). “Let’s go over here,” he says, as he heads towards a deserted area of the restaurant, bypassing smiling waitresses and chatting up managers, casually throwing in the line, “I helped build this floor”.

International Man of Mystery Indeed, Rod Stubbs is a man of mystery. Or at least he likes to portray himself that way. He’s also a master in kung fu. “In this business, being able to choke someone out and have them wake up wondering, ‘Where am I?’ is pretty handy,” he says. Having done internal investigations and protection work for the Australian government and having been a member of the Australian Special Forces for eight years, bodyguarding came naturally to Rod, having

32 | Word September 2012

scored his first security job at 18-years-old at a radio station where he had to deal with a deranged “nutso” wielding a knife demanding to meet Cyndi Lauper. Since arriving in Vietnam almost 11 years ago and setting up his own security company with more than 1,000 employees, he’s guarded everyone from the Prime Minister to The Backstreet Boys. “When I first arrived, the protection industry was still pretty raw with only basic guard services,” he says. “There’s still a long way to go. It’s difficult here to provide a high level of training because if you train someone too well, they might disappear [to another

"There’s a big hole in security in Vietnam at the moment. But we’re hoping things change. Right now, the minimum wage for a general security guard is only VND2.3 million a month” job] the next month. There’s a big hole in security in Vietnam at the moment. But we’re hoping things change. Right now, the minimum wage for a general security guard is only VND2.3 million a month.” Despite the occasional kidnapping or high profile robbery, Rod says Vietnam is not considered “high threat”. That all goes out the window when it comes to celebrities, though, Korean pop stars in particular. Korea has even coined a term to describe overly obsessive groupies who take fandom a step beyond stalking — ‘sasaeng fans’ (‘sasaeng’ is Korean for ‘private life’). Sasaeng fans have been

known to do everything from install GPS trackers in their idol’s car, or in the case of girls too young to drive, shell out hundreds of dollars a day to hire a car and driver to follow stars around, to poisoning rivals or sending fan messages written in menstrual blood.

Kiss & Sniff Fortunately Vietnamese fans haven’t quite reached that level of sasaeng, although Korean superstar Bi Rain’s Hanoi visit earlier this year caused a national stir when a television insider reported that a seat (A12, to be exact) that Rain sat in during rehearsals was swarmed by fans later that evening wanting to take pictures with it and more shockingly, a group of teenage girls even kissing and sniffing the seat. Earlier this year during April’s Soundfest, Rod was responsible for the security for Big Bang, presently the most successful Korean boy band on the world stage. Despite it being past 11pm, “the scene was incredible,” he recalls. “There were about 3,000 fans who swarmed the airport. The crowd soon got too big. They were jumping on top of cars trying to get to the group. It didn’t help that the airport personnel were trying to get pictures and autographs of their own. But professional security is all about understanding the threat and controlling it. Knowing where safe houses are, being able to change routes from points A to B are all part of the job. The security for Big Bang was like no other. We always kept control.” Security guards in Vietnam aren’t allowed to carry guns, relying on less lethal weapons such as batons and tasers. “We have an international bodyguard training programme, covering rules of engagement and tools of the trade. But it always comes down to common sense, knowing what you’re doing”. When asked about the most danger he’s ever encountered in Vietnam, Rod answers with a wry smile, “Driving on the road”.

September 2012 Word | 33

FEATURE

Kimchi Culture As the Vietnamese seem to openly embrace Korean culture, Michael Halloran ﬁnds out if the notion is reciprocated. Photos by EJ Chung

oreana restaurant on Thai Van Lung serves spicy kimchi with a slightly astringent, sour aftertaste. But it’s only one of eight side dishes you’ll find on the table on any given night, along with the main course — stew of pork on the bone. Then have a shot of soju to really ram home the spice. Or maybe take things a little easier with a bowl of ice-cold makgeolli, a rice beer. With all the vibrant flavours attacking your oral senses you might even forget that you’re in the middle of Ho Chi Minh City, so enveloping is this Korean experience. Officially there are 84,566 Koreans living in Vietnam, the second largest overseas Korean population in Asia, and quite a few live in Ho Chi Minh City. However, Korean culture doesn’t stop at restaurants. It’s hard to find a TV station not showing a Korean soap opera or a radio station not playing K-pop.

Woojin Lee

34 | Word September 2012

You often hear about the ‘Korean Wave’, but sometimes it feels more like a lava flow reshaping Vietnam’s cultural landscape. But what do Koreans in Vietnam think of this and living in a different culture? Eunji Chung, a photographer, remains ambivalent about the situation. “I’m proud that Korea is widely recognised and that it's loved by Vietnamese,” she says. However, she questions the quality of such cultural exports like soap operas and music. “They don’t really encourage sophisticated culture.” Strange then that the relationship between Korea and Vietnam started with the elevated art of poetry, something which envoys from the two countries used to communicate through while posted in Qing Dynasty Beijing. It was only in 1992 that contemporary diplomatic relations normalised and, with that, the formation of a

Rumi Lee

Korean expat community.

The Seoul of Saigon Go to the Phu My Hung area of District 7 and parts of it feel like a suburb of Seoul. Korean BBQ restaurants, Korean churches, PC rooms and karaoke rooms are everywhere, and many signs are written in the Korean alphabet, Hangeul. When approached, many Korean people are reticent to talk, perhaps shy of their English. But how do they feel about adapting to Vietnamese culture? “Learning Vietnamese is not too difficult,” says Woojin Lee, a trade manager. “I had a private tutor and most of the vocabulary is similar to Korean, because of the shared Chinese root. The tones are a problem though. At home, my oldest son, who is two years old, is learning to speak Vietnamese from our nanny.”

But he does find the business culture here difficult at times. “In Korea, jobs are very hierarchical. But here, everyone tries to be more or less equal, so I get frustrated.” In Korea, there is strict etiquette surrounding the acceptance and handling of business cards. “One time,” Woojin recounts, “I gave my business card to a Vietnamese colleague. He didn’t look at it and started tapping it against the table. It was upsetting.” A recent high school graduate, Rumi Lee has lived in Vietnam since 2006 and is currently studying English at a language school. She is the only non-Vietnamese person in a class of 18. She says that many Korean people don’t make the effort to reach out and explore Vietnamese culture. “Koreans move very fast and don’t have much time to relax. But Vietnamese… maybe they’re too relaxed. The most important thing is to see that cultural difference and to accept it.” Andy Kang, who prefers to go by his English nickname, plunged into Vietnamese life in a dramatic way. Now working as an intern, he spent six months at Dalat University, having been sent there by his company to study Vietnamese language and culture. He has to go back to Dalat next month. He says that he doesn’t have much time for the Phu My Hung Koreans. “That place is for married people and families. Single people prefer to live in maybe District 1 or District 4.

Andy Kang

When I first got here, I was a backpacker, and I thought it was all chaos. But now I think life is better, even if it’s more difficult to make Vietnamese friends. But once you do, they’re your friends for life.”

Bubble Life “I feel like I am living in a bubble here,” says Eunji, “but I think I would feel like a foreigner if I have to go back to Korea. Even if I leave Vietnam, I would always come back here because it's where my family is based.” Andy’s first impression of Vietnam wasn’t positive. “I came to Vietnam to see a developing country. I was disappointed because by the time I got here, I think it was already too developed. Jobs here carry more responsibility for Korean graduates. In Korea, I would have to get a more menial job.” Woojin loves life here and finds it much less stressful than similar work in Korea. “The best experience in the workplace was when one of my Vietnamese employees was leaving for another job. Before she left, she gave me a gift and bowed to me just like a Korean and said ‘kamsahamnida’ which means ‘thank you’ in Korean. It really touched me.” Seokchan, Rumi’s father, had problems of a more logistical nature when he first moved his family to Vietnam. “It has been really exciting living here, but at first it was difficult. There are too many motorbikes. When I came here first it was very difficult to cross the road or even use public transportation.”

Anxiety over motorcycle use is common. Korean companies discourage their employees from using motorcycles, preferring them to use public transport or chauffeured cars. Moon Miyeon, a Korean teacher, only arrived here in July but in her short time, has explored the city extensively. She says her co-workers don’t really try to integrate. But she advises those planning on coming here, “don't be afraid of Vietnam.”

THE KOREAN EXPERIENCE Catch the food and culture at these places: — To get in your orders of kimchi or kimbab try SEOUL DELI & SHOP (231 Tran Quang Khai Q1). Open 9.30 am to 10pm — For an authentic Korean dining experience try SEOUL HOUSE (33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1). Open 7am to 10pm — Be a bit more adventurous and walk into one of many Korean restaurants in the Phu My Hung area — Next time you’re in Hanoi, check out the KOREAN CULTURAL CENTRE (49 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi). For more information, visit vietnam.korean-culture.org

Moon Miyeon

September 2012 Word | 35

A Mat ch!

COVER STORY

it's

Dating and the emotions that go with it can make us feel like we're back in high school: wondering if they'll call, playing hard-to-get, feeling giddy after a great first date, and hopefully, falling head over heels in love. Well, this month it’s time to rewind the years and head back to Saigon High. 20 guys and gals have opened the very depths of their souls, revealing what they are looking for in a partner. We’ve taken their deeply personal answers and done our best to make a love match. BUT there's a twist, the singles did not know who they were paired with until this issue of Word was published.

couples with the most votes will then get the chance to prove that actions speak louder than words when we put them together for a blind date. Having done our bit, we’ll exit stage right and wait for sparks to fly and wedding bells to sound. Not that we are trying to put any pressure on anyone… And don’t worry, yu’ll hear all about the dates in October’s issue when we get the scoop from all four parties, with photos, too!

VOTE FOR LOVE see go out on a date to 0947 074136. It’s that easy.

Now that you’ve read our ramblings on amour in the city, time to move on and meet 20 of the city’s most eligible residents. We’re throwing a readership voting competition, too, and we’ve made voting as easy and quick as possible.

Date #1: A day of adventure with rock climbing in the afternoon followed by dinner in the evening.

Each of our couples has a code. So, simply grab your mobile phone and text your vote for the two couples you want to

Date #2: A day of creativity at a pottery class in the afternoon followed by dinner in the evening.

Words by James Allen, Lyra Dacio and Ed Weinberg. Photos by Charles Barnes, EJ Chung and Quinn Ryan Mattingly

As in past years, we’re allowing you to vote on who you think are the best or most suited couples. The two 36 | Word September 2012

September 2012 Word | 37

AARON LEE 30, Chinese-American The Reborn

JENNY HUYEN NGUYEN 24, Vietnamese The Princess

This good girl likes princess dresses, high heels and frequent smiles. Two April Fools Days ago, Aaron’s sonogram technician girlfriend “It’s my style, feminine,” she says when pressed. This is also the told him she’d found something on the frivolous X-ray she’d given manner of this happy-go-lucky soul, swishing the world brighter him, something that looked like a heart tumor. It sounded unreal, not with pastel patterns and twinkling eyes, taking funny pictures with quite the kind of joke she would play, but unreal all the same. She friends or bouncing around at a party. Her voice is slanted in a sweet consulted the doctor she worked with and he said Aaron had to do direction, and she’s never far from laughing. Everything she touches something about it immediately. she makes a little better, more thrilling, more filled with joy. After three heart surgeries in six weeks — the final a complete Her day job is in marketing for a roofing tar manufacturer, and success — he realised the deep truth in the chestnut: “Life’s too she also has business hook-ups for all the things you put under a short.” He quit a good job in San Diego, California to move to roof — water, wine and supplements. She dreams of one day opening Vietnam, where he now teaches business English and unleashes a health food restaurant, with plenty of vegetables, fruits and lean chestnuts of his own like: “Buy low, sell high!” between the clubs and meats — free from the chemical contaminants present in much of the coffee. He likes it out here. the domestic product. Some weeks ago Aaron found himself in the ocean late This doesn’t stop her from being adventurous with night in Nha Trang, clothes deposited on the sand. eating the things she loves, though. As a founding Concentrating on other things, he didn’t notice a thief TEXT C1 member of the Adventurous Eaters Club, she has stealing his and his friend’s clothes until the thief was TO 0947 074136 introduced the other members to the dog meat she’s well down the beach. He finally caught up with the TO VOTE FOR so fond of. When asked how she can reconcile her clothes — minus wallets and cell phones. Throwing the AARON & kindhearted, animal-loving approach with this apparent clothes back where they had previously been, he went JENNY idiosyncrasy, she patiently explains, “I love dogs but I back into the water. Nothing bothers him. don’t eat my dogs — I eat others’ dogs.” IN A NUTSHELL: He’s a cool, confident guy who loves the IN A NUTSHELL: Sweet, cute and honest. beach and the rumble of bass. His spirit animal is a tiger. THE PERFECT DATE: Going skinny-dipping and not getting clothes stolen. Music and dancing would also be a part of it.

THE PERFECT DATE: A nice restaurant with a lot of candles, an unexpected surprise.

PROS: He’s funny and smart, honest to a fault.

PROS: When you get sick, she’ll come to take care of you even if it’s midnight, and when she goes away she’ll buy you a gift.

CONS: If he’s on a date and it’s not working, this honesty can be a bad thing.

CONS: She’ll believe everything you say.

FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “When life hands him lemons, he makes OJ.”

FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “She’s a good girl and she doesn’t know how to tell lies, I like it.”

38 | Word September 2012

ALBIN DEFORGES 35, French The Social Butterfly

JOANIE

Filipina The Artistic Chef

Joanie was active in the advertising business in Manila and Saigon Albin has made a career out of his lifelong passion for good food until she took a six-month sabbatical to pursue her passion in the and even better company. With over eight years in Vietnam and culinary arts in Florence, Italy. Now she’s back and is Geisha Café countless other countries under his belt, this professional foodie and Clothing Company’s café director, lending her talent not only knows what he likes and invariably ends up eating it. in the kitchen but in running the business as well. A veteran on the restaurant scene in Ho Chi Minh City, there’s nothing better, he tells us, than a good meal with friends at one of IN A NUTSHELL: She’s also a talented painter and has had the tried and tested eateries in his repertoire. Formerly part owner a couple of solo exhibitions in Saigon and Florence. Her of Alamezon, which he tells us is in search of a new venue, he’s had love for cooking, on the other hand, actually took root in her more than his fair share of nights out, but now prefers the quieter grandmother’s kitchen after being inspired by naked chef, things in life, even if he has to drive well outside of the city to find Jamie Oliver. In fact, Joanie is Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution them. Ambassador in the Philippines. She is also known in her When he isn’t knee deep in menus and business home country as the Artist Chef, planning and cooking development, Albin finds time to box or swim, no doubt to lip-smacking full course meals at special occasions for combat all those big meals out. Even though you’re more couples. likely to find him front of house, he knows his way TEXT C2 around the kitchen and often finds time to cook dishes TO 0947 074136 HER DREAM GUY: When describing him, Joanie inspired by his Italian Grandmother. TO VOTE goes beyond the looks and wants someone who she FOR ALBIN & can connect with. Whether whiling the night away IN A NUTSHELL: This laid back Frenchman is looking JOANIE over a bottle of beer or dodging the police while for good conversation, an even better sense of humour spray-painting graffiti, Joanie wants that connection. and someone who enjoys her food as much as he does. Not into extremes, he ensures us he doesn’t need a mum, PROS: She can cook a mouthwatering paella juana — her he just needs a girl with her own life and one who can take very own speciality. If she likes you, a full course meal with all the things at an easier pace. frills is in your future. HIS DREAM DATE: “I’d learn what she loves to eat and cook a CONS: Joanie is allergic to the term ‘dating’, but she likes to hang meal tailor-made to her, then find a decent bar with a view next out. If you want to win her heart, surprise her with an activity that to the river, or take the bike and get lost somewhere off the beaten will jive well with her personality. track. PROS: He speaks four languages and even “dabbles” in Japanese, and he can cook up a storm. Surely UN material? CONS: Social butterfly to the extreme.

September 2012 Word | 39

ED WEINBERG

TON THI QUYNH HUONG

Over the past week, Ed’s worn a Moroccan robe and fez, a Cambodian bell, a Vietnamese grandma-type pajama top and a homemade spider t-shirt — which he made for the premiere of Dark Knight Rises. If clothes maketh the man, he’s covered a lot of territory recently. That’s just the way his imagination works. He’s exhilarated by the small wonders of life, and he sees them everywhere. He’s looked for them in plenty of places, too, with 33 countries in his passport — not including the cafe/imaginarium Ba Cay Choi (Three Brooms Town), where he is editor-in-chief of their monthly newsletter. He’s got jokes, of course, but he’s most amused by the jokes of life. These are the things he can’t help noticing, whether embodied by the random people he always seems to meet or the insanity he’s a part of, like the party he organised at a Pham Ngu Lao Shop ‘n Go, 30 people packing the aisles to listen to his friend play guitar and drink beers at retail price.

Behind the smiles, excitement and frequent bursts of laughter, Huong is always picturing her dream. It’s been sketched out in the backpacker hostels of India and through ten years of school and work in China, writing travel articles for Vietnamese magazines. She found versions of it in the monasteries of Tibet, travelling with a Vietnamese monk who found his own there, and most recently in The Himalayas, on a two-pass trek through the Everest region. It’s a dream of the world that she’s never seen, a world that can’t be imagined but only felt. However, on solid ground she handles PR for the company behind The Amazing Race Vietnam and Vietnam Idol, and edits the business magazine VIP Dat Viet. In her calmer moments, she hangs with friends, cooks and reads. It’s all preparation for her next crazy rush (she’s thinking of trying to bungee), her next brush with curiosity.

31, American The Idea Man

IN A NUTSHELL: He is the nutshell. THE PERFECT DATE: Taking a motorbike ride through some unknown part of town en route to some tasty Bun Cha Ha Noi and a crash of an apartment building pool he knows about in District 7. End it with some beers and sweet conversation on a high rooftop.

31, Vietnamese The Spontaneous Type

TEXT C3 TO 0947 074136 TO VOTE FOR ED & HUONG

IN A NUTSHELL: She’s a smiley adventurer with wide eyes and an engaging manner. She’s prone to small inspirations, fanciful ideas and laughing jags. It’s never a boring time with her. THE PERFECT DATE: She doesn’t plan for something perfect. Just surprise her and it’ll be perfect.

PROS: If you’re lucky he’ll play You Shook Me All Night Long on his ukulele.

PROS: She’s a creative cook who loves pot lucks. She makes an excellent meatball-in-tomato.

CONS: He’s got a weird pair of shoes whose defined toes might be a deal breaker. If clothes maketh the man, do these shoes make him half-frog?

CONS: She doesn’t make plans. You might bore her if you’re not creative enough.

FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “Maaaan, what to say about our buddy Eddie? Pretty incredible how much you can laugh, party, drink, wonder, giggle, see, eat, hoola-hoop, talk and make baaad bad jokes in only two-and-a-half days!!”

40 | Word September 2012

FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “She likes fun.”

FLAVIO OLIVARI 33, Italian The Jet Setter

SARA OWEN 28, Welsh The Musical Minx

All of Flavio’s life he’s been flying, and good humour and a sense of If you go out in Saigon, chances are you’ve seen this girl perspective have come along with the altitude. For the last two years somewhere. Maybe you noticed her skanking at a reggae party or he’s found himself flying for an airline in Vietnam. It’s not quite as maybe it was onstage at Thi closing out the night with some Jason laid-back as his previous appointment, flying one-week-on, one-weekMraz. It might even have been at a traffic stop, the rare blonde on off charters to the far corners of the world, and getting fixed up in the the front of a motorbike. Or it could soon be in the Ho Chi Minh same resort accommodations as his passengers. Yet he’s still managed City International Choir, which she recently got selected into (it to bring his easy-going adventurousness to life in Saigon. hopefully wasn’t during a rugby international, where she’s been In a practical sense, this means an off-day flip through the Word’s known to shout rude things to Englishmen on behalf of her native directory pages for a cool cafe or some live music, and some random land.) adventures. It’s a different breed of adventure from the days he found Even if you’ve been the recipient of this Welsh lass’s outgoing himself in Havana on a regular basis, smoking cigars rolled by an warmth, you probably haven’t seen her pirouette on the beach, and 80-year-old man who once rolled for Fidel and Che, but Flavio is you almost certainly haven’t seen her skinny-dip in the sea. finding it equally rewarding. Now, he’ll find himself in some unexpected French cafe IN A NUTSHELL: She keeps her intuitive generosity for courtyard or in Hanoi on an overnight trip and realise the quieter moments, over some nibbles or movies, it’s just the place he wanted to reach. Maybe he’s finally curling up in her rooftop hammock with her cat and a TEXT C4 arrived? cheeky fag. She’s a dance therapist, one who believes TO 0947 074136 the right moves are the key to a happier life. Not that TO VOTE FOR IN A NUTSHELL: He’s a playful charmer, an earnest there are too many quiet moments with this fireball. FLAVIO & dreamer who hasn’t outgrown his youth. He ran into a With a mental soundtrack that runs from Disney to SARA girl he had previously flirted with out one night. Taking drum and bass, dubstep to disco, the bounce never her by the hand, he stared into her eyes for a moment stops. and said nothing. In disbelief, with serious conviction, he eventually said, “Our children will have blue eyes.” THE PERFECT DATE: A drive out to the coast filled with motorbike cuddles and sparky conversation, ending in a seafood THE PERFECT DATE: He will cook Italian food for you. Some Cafe picnic on the beach. Del Mar chill-out on the stereo, maybe a wander onto his Phu My Hung roof terrace. A movie, ice cream, popcorn — whatever you like. PROS: She’ll sing for you on your birthday... and at other times too. PROS: He might fly you on your next date. CONS: Girls don’t trust pilots. FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “He’s the only guy I’ve ever met that I can’t tell if he’s good or bad. He’s polite, but all the bad guys are polite.”

CONS: Coffee dates aren’t always your friend with this caffeinesensitive lady. FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “An all-singing, all-dancing Welsh lass, with a heart of gold and lungs the size of China!”

September 2012 Word | 41

LUKE DAVID GEDDIE

TRAM BAO THAI

25, American The Improvisor

25, Vietnamese The Wild Card

If you’re at the Hotel Equatorial and you’ve got a wad of cash to blow, you might find Tram across the table from you. This blackjack babe could even give you some insight into how tough it is to be on her side of the table, dealing rounds of blackjack and baccarat. That is, if you’re not one of those customers who lose then throw an ashtray (probably not your best move anyway). Not to be cheesy, but you need to realise she’s this other breed you find in casinos. She’s been-there-a-hundred-times cool, and the deck is firmly in her hand. Stakes are high even in the daylight — she brings the same energy to Lush (ladies’ night), the tennis courts (she’s competitive) and travelling (she loves the unexpected). She’s a good — some might even say sexy — dancer with a freestyle fashion sense, like pairing a nice dress and sneakers. She’s a fine cook with an inventive streak who toys with the idea of someday opening a western-style restaurant. She’s friendly, too, unless you cross her. For TEXT C5 example, she once said “hi” to a white monkey on the TO 0947 074136 beach in Muine, and then chased him down when he TO VOTE FOR stole her coconut. LUKE & TRAM Through it all the same current runs — a passion and wise humour that lets her get the most out of life.

When asked, “Why should someone date you?” Luke has an answer prepared. “Cause I’m awesome,” he cracks at the 1 a.m. bar. “People know me. I have a large collection of leather-bound books and my apartment smells of sweet mahogany.” Through whatever weirdness Luke encounters — and he encounters a lot, whether it’s at bi-weekly dodgeball games, on stage as an emcee, or accepting a random invitation to do something he’s never done before — he never fails to keep his unflappable sense of humour. He’s in one of those moods tonight as he riffs on. And though you won’t always hear about it, he’s one of the people out there making things all right. Whether it’s through one of his clever business angles or being the joke cracker, you can usually find him wherever he is making things just a bit brighter. And, remember, his apartment smells of sweet mahogany. IN A NUTSHELL: He is tall, dark and stormy. When he gets drunk he might say, “Don’t act like you’re not impressed.” THE PERFECT DATE: You’ll watch a comedy and eat takeaway, then head straight to the club for some “bump ‘n’ grind!” PROS: He’ll introduce you to his dodgeball friends.

IN A NUTSHELL: She never regrets what she’s done, only what she hasn’t done yet.

CONS: He might be too awesome.

THE PERFECT DATE: Show her something new and she’ll be impressed.

FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “If you want to know anything about Luke David Geddie, you should listen to the song ‘You spin me right round baby right round...’”

PROS: She’s optimistic, believing the best about everyone even though she’s seen the worst. However, she no longer gives the benefit of the doubt to monkeys. CONS: She makes the people in her life worry about her sometimes.

TUNG TRAN

33, Vietnamese-American The Numbers Guy

Originally from Seattle, Washington, Tung moved to Saigon to work as an actuary for a Canadian insurance company. When not neck deep in numbers, he likes to slow down, relax and go running at the gym. When friends from overseas visit him Tung offers to play tour guide, travelling and exploring the country. IN A NUTSHELL: Although he seems to be firm about being single, in reality he is a softie when it comes to finding the right girl. “There is nothing better than growing and experiencing life together with the one you love,” he says.

EMILY DUNG NGUYEN 27, Vietnamese Superwoman

With more strings to her bow than the average Wall Street banker, Emily is one very busy lady. We eventually lost count of how many pies this girl has her fingers in, but we do know they include writing for a tennis magazine, developing a Korean TV channel soon to air in Vietnam, acting in TV commercials and working as a teaching assistant at Singapore International School. When she isn’t negotiating in fluent Korean or organising classrooms full of children, she somehow finds time to swing dance. A hobby that has taken her all around Asia, Emily can cut some serious rug on the dancefloor. This one woman whirlwind of activity also manages to keep herself in killer heels of which she has quite the collection, not to mention an ability to be friendly and effortlessly kind.

HIS DREAM GIRL: Friendship is important to Tung if he’s to find his dream girl. She should “like to be active, ambitious, constantly evolving and challenging herself — someone that carries herself with class so I can IN A NUTSHELL: According to Emily she can TEXT C6 introduce her to my mom, but also has a naughty sometimes care too much, but considering her work TO 0947 074136 side,” he says. load, we aren’t surprised. Any guy looking to woo TO VOTE this superwoman will have to be quick on his feet, FOR TUNG & PROS: He’d take you somewhere adventuresome well educated and appreciate both her passion for EMILY and remote like Con Dao, “followed by some great business and dance. She knows her stuff, has travelled food and ending with a relaxing massage.” As an and can speak three languages. If she wasn’t so lovely experienced traveller, Tung has been exposed to many we would hate her. gastronomic delights. He knows his way round the kitchen and can cook a delicious meal. DREAM DATE: “Just going to the beach would be great but some sport or cycling while we were there. Romance is great, but I still CONS: Going out on a date with Tung? Don’t blab too much need to be active!” about your past relationships. Some guy may have the patience to hear your lamentations, but best to keep it to a bare minimum PROS: Superwoman-cum-future business mogul with an eye for with him. fashion. What more do you want? CONS: We tried, but we seriously couldn’t find any.

FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “Sexy, crazy, nice.”

42 | Word September 2012

September 2012 Word | 43

MARK VALENTI

ELLEN GLEESON

30, American The Quiet American

33, English The Power Girl

It’s not often you meet a retired 30-year-old boat captain whose grandfather worked as a whisky runner for the Italian mafia. It’s even rarer to find a retired boat captain who can star in musical theatre productions one day and master the art of dodgeball the next. But fear not, this guy does actually exist. We didn’t make him up. Surprisingly quiet at first, Marc can be quite introspective, often coming across as shy, but he assures us it is impossible to embarrass him, a challenge we encourage his date to take on. Starting his career as a boat captain quite by accident while on holiday in Hawaii, he didn’t leave for four years. He’s now in Vietnam and looking for a change of pace. The quiet American is also planning to get involved in volunteering both here and in Cambodia. IN A NUTSHELL: If you like your men to have more layers than a really big onion, then Marc is probably your guy. He’s looking for a girl who is adventurous at heart, willing to scuba dive and not insecure. It may take him a while to open up, but this easygoing guy has more than enough life experiences to keep you entertained when he does. THE PERFECT DATE: A nice leisurely lunch to test the water, maybe a walk around the zoo or a park, somewhere quiet so they can talk.

There’s a name for girls like Ellen— Power Girls. They go out all night, always keep their heads, and are there with a laugh or a clever dance move whenever you need. In Ellen’s case, she can even turn her eyelids inside out if you need to freak someone out. By day she’s ready for a different kind of adventure (these are the luxuries one can afford when on a sabbatical from a job at a charity back home). She volunteers at an orphanage, and her benevolence even extends to paying prostitutes not to sleep with sexpats. She likes fun travels, having just come back from a festival in Korea where she saw Radiohead and “borrowed” about 25 accessory items (headbands, glow sticks, toe rings) from festival-goers defenseless to her charms. She is being inducted into her friend’s Vietnamese family as a sister. She plays “Would you rather?” in dull moments and sometimes charms the lads with an Irish accent so convincing that even Irish guys have fallen for it. TEXT C7 TO 0947 074136 IN A NUTSHELL: It’s a fun life out here for Ellen, one TO VOTE that she’ll share with the occasional Frenchman who FOR MARK & asks nicely. Some tips: she likes being picked up by a ELLEN motorbike, baking cakes on dates and movies where nothing happens. She’s an English rose with an Irish accent and a French approach to dating.

PROS: Boat Captain! CONS: Might take a few dates to open up. FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “One of the most selfless people I know and also very adventurous and open-minded about trying and exploring new things. Oh and he’s definitely one of the best cooks around!”

44 | Word September 2012

THE PERFECT DATE: At some cool gig, the band is really good, and there’s a moment in there where you both just smile at one another in perfect mutual enjoyment. PROS: She has a cat named Mofulus Romney Ballsack. CONS: She is currently addicted to Breaking Bad, so your chances of seeing her are slim. FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “Her classy accent and impeccable style hide a weird and wonderfully-angled sense of whimsy.”

DANNY NGUYEN

NGAN NGUYEN THUY

When a man without an agenda comes to a place where he doesn’t need one, sometimes he stays. That’s what happened to Danny, a Viet Kieu of Phan Thiet family origin, who came from San Jose, California to Vietnam for the first time a year ago and liked it so much he stayed. Sometimes that openness makes for the perfect match. Since arriving in Saigon, he’s found a pretty comfortable place. It started in a chance meeting with a businesswoman who needed a translator. Now he flies with her to boardrooms around Southeast Asia, fine tuning the English in her contracts. When he actually is in town, he’s equally at home at Bling, Sky Bar, Gold or Shri. His brother’s also here, and life just seems to fit — whether he’s fishing at the stocked pools in Binh Thanh or trying to bring the American BBQ style to a backyard near you. He’s in his element, and he’d love to share it with you.

Nghi, as this lovely girl is called, is not just a pretty face. She studied in Singapore, not only to get a diploma, but also to test her independence.

26, Vietnamese-American The Prodigal Son

IN A NUTSHELL: This snappy dresser has a quick wit and a sincere smile. He’s an easy guy to please, and you won’t have too much difficulty if you like ribs and chicken wings and don’t need a napkin.

30, Vietnamese The Independent

IN A NUTSHELL: Going clubbing, watching movies and hanging out with friends are some things she likes. “My friends think I am lazy and just want to go out for dinner, but they’re wrong, I’m a good cook,” Nghi tells us. And that’s not all; this budding businesswoman owns three nail salons and a shop specialising in baby products. HER DREAM GUY: Nghi may be tough, but wants someone equally strong. She describes her dream guy as her “big shadow to protect my life”.

TEXT C8 TO 0947 074136 TO VOTE FOR DANNY & THUY

THE PERFECT DATE: Maybe it’s his beach blood, but seafood and ice cream seem like the perfect combination for this whimsical dude. Afterwards, a walk in the breeze and a stopin on an overheard jazz session could be lovely.

PROS: Nghi is easy to please. Just come with a purple flower, a huge smile and your charming self. CONS: Three things make a date with Nghi a success — “good food, good drink, and good talk that goes beyond 30 minutes”. Can you meet all three?

PROS: He’s an optimist and a nice guy. He might write you a sweet poem one of these days. CONS: He has a Minnie Mouse keychain his niece gave him that he won’t let you borrow. FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “He likes lions, but he’s more like a pussycat.”

September 2012 Word | 45

(Unfortunately, Guilherme was unable to make it to the photo shoot so we had to use his stand in.)

BINH NGUYEN

NGUYEN THI DIEN CHAU

25, Vietnamese The Overachiever

30, Vietnamese The Dancer

After four years studying in Oz (not the fictional TV prison), Binh couldn’t wait to get back to life in Saigon. Previously at Yan TV he has already moved on to a management position at a small digital marketing company where at the tender age of 25 he regularly produces music videos and writes scripts for different projects. When he isn’t working his overachieving derriere off, he often finds himself turning his very own tables as a mobile DJ around the city, listing his musical inspiration as ‘everything’. His work doesn’t end there. He also creates, designs and manages a group of websites, and even finds time to freelance as a director. It’s no surprise Binh likes to keep himself busy, having grown up in a house right in the market, surrounded by people and noise that he soon got used to and missed while away at university. When he isn’t hanging out with his friends drinking more than he probably should on a work night, he loves family life, especially his new neice who he promises us is “bloody cute”. IN A NUTSHELL: Binh is creative and knows how to have fun. He is effortlessly outgoing and according to the man himself, “You will never get bored in a relationship with a creative guy. There will always be surprises along the way”. Not into gossip, he is looking for a girl who is kind to the people around her. She must also know what she wants in life.

IN A NUTSHELL: A fun loving girl, Chau likes hanging out with her friends. If she’s not hard at work, she likes going to a bar, singing karaoke or watching a comedy movie. She’s always ready for a laugh. HER DREAM GUY: Someone who can surprise her and spend time with her walking on the beach, or someone who she can go dancing with her until the sun comes up.

TEXT C9 TO 0947 074136 TO VOTE FOR BINH & CHAU

PROS: He will star you in his next movie! CONS: Can be difficult to get a word in. HIS DREAM DATE: “A jazz bar, a red and white checked table cloth covered table and a window.” [Enter Binh and new date stage left.] FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “He is generous and kind with everyone, he always helps people if he can, and doesn't expect anything in return because he is ‘precious’. Just listen to Price Tag by Jessi J, that song pretty much describes exactly who he is!

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Chau, originally from Dalat, moved to Saigon to find a job. She worked in the restaurant industry for a while before going full time to work online for a furniture shop. When she can take time off from the hustle and bustle of city life, Chau visits her parents in Dalat for a much needed R ‘n R.

PROS: Thinking where to take this gal on a date? She’s not picky with her food and will try anything. Bring her to some place where she can wow you with her dance moves or impersonate people using accents. CONS: If you’re going to get drunk, better make sure you don’t lose her in the crowd because she will leave you to find a better scene somewhere else.

C10

GUILHERME TONON

HANNAH LAMBIE

28, Brazilian The Wise Man

23, English The Proton

In Saigon it can be a struggle to find the peace Guilherme likes, the peace he remembers so well from Brazil. He no longer has easy access to the beaches and mountains, or the clubs where his brother would play samba. So now it’s the corner cafes he goes to for stimulation and his rooftop — where he can hear his neighbours exercising and raising chickens — for peace. He’s a digital marketing specialist, currently making clever internet moves on behalf of a beer company you may have heard of. He’s from Santos, the home of Pele, but his talents lie in other things like cooking. He makes a feijoada (Portugese bean stew) that sounds like a good firstdate dish, as long as you don’t mind getting messy. IN A NUTSHELL: Though he was a couchsurfing host back home he enjoys privacy, too, reading and cooking, going to the gym and listening to Brazilian music. He’s not a clubber, preferring places where he can hear his conversational partner. This relaxed attitude permeates his approach to life — he ended up working for the same hostel he’d been staying at. That’s how it works when every possibility feels like it’s for the best.

If you met her on Halloween — dressed as a dead bride with an unsettling eyeball-white contact over one eye — you might have gotten the wrong impression. If you were at her UK leaving-do where everyone drew mustaches on their faces so they could frown more sternly at her going, you might have the right idea. If you saw her dancing at Blanchy’s or Bootleg, occasionally pulling out such tongue-in-cheek moves as the crab dance from The Office while smiling out her good vibes, you’ll have an even better idea what Hannah’s all about. Just to be clear — she’s about friends, fun and shared meals where everybody’s happy. She’ll walk across the mud pits of Glastonbury for an hour to get some shoes for a stranded friend. She’ll cook you a meal and put a nice drink beside it. If you’re stuck for conversation, she’ll ask silly questions like, “What kind of animal would you like to be?” She’d like to be a robin, just for one day. TEXT C10

TO 0947 074136 TO VOTE FOR GUILHERME & HANNAH

Though he enjoys his peace, when he’s with you he’ll always be with you.

IN A NUTSHELL: Hannah’s a good force in this universe, one that will occasionally help you out of jams, but more often just exude life and keep on smiling at you across the dance floor. She is kind and caring, but she doesn’t let that get in the way of some crazy fun.

THE PERFECT DATE: Anything that ends with a kiss. If it ends with a kiss that means it was perfect.

THE PERFECT DATE: Tapas dinner with red wine and cheese, Flamenco music and some sultry dancing to follow.

PROS: He can eat anything, so you can even cook badly and he will be amazed.

PROS: She might give you a foot massage if you’re tired.

CONS: You'll have to be walking everywhere, he doesn’t own a bike. FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “He’s reached a high-level of awareness that some face only in late age, if at all ever. Conversations with him are as schizophrenic as his music collection.”

CONS: When playing the game Nivea crevice (where you put some Nivea somewhere on your body and get a blindfolded person to rub it and guess where it is) you might get the wrong impression. FRIEND’S TESTIMONIAL: “Lambie has an unreal number of fun photos on HCMC Life — that should tell you something.”

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DESTINATION

JAPANESE TANGO Located to the northwest of Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan, is the exquisite Tango Peninsula. Boasting more than 2,000 temples and shrines, all hidden around every bend, this sparsely populated region is an untouched treasure trove that even locals don’t know about. Words and illustrations by J Muzacz

A traditional Japanese tock garden

Looking down between your legs at Amanohashidate, Bridge to Heaven

hey call the countryside inaka. Roughly translated, inaka means rural area, hometown, the sticks. It is a place of few young people — the farmer’s dilemma — most running away as soon as they can to the big and bustling neon fishbowls of Osaka or Tokyo. There they can get lost in concrete jungle anonymity and find a job with a regular paycheck. Air-conditioned office space, noisy apartments, foul-smelling streets. For the young, these irks are somehow more appealing than the clean air, fresh food, tight-knit communities and satisfying

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physical labour of working outdoors, tending a few rice fields and a patch of sweet potatoes. Rice from the Tango Peninsula is officially ranked as some of the best tasting rice in the country. School kids help plant and harvest the rice they will eat next semester. They take field trips to the garden of somebody’s uncle’s garden where their school lunch salad greens were grown. This kind of local and holistic, slow-food lifestyle is nearly impossible in the sprawling cities. And what happens when grandma and grandpa plant their last rice paddy? Who is going to

grow next year’s lunch? The good food, nature and community that are cornerstones of a thriving, sustainable culture and healthy environment should already be reason enough to visit the Tango Peninsula. That there are so many other highlights of a visit to this pinky toe headland jutting out into the Japan Sea, says much about this area. It’s a little bit special.

Geoparks, Stonehenge and Heaven For cyclists, the peninsula has a circumference small enough that you could

ride around it in a single day. You would have to pedal past most of the attractions to make it back before dark but it is definitely doable and, with the recent bike boom in Japan, is increasingly popular. A sign on the winding cliff-side road confidently declares, ‘here are the most beautiful villages in Japan’. And they aren’t kidding, the dramatic coastline is stunning. There is also a bus that goes round for about ¥1,300 (VND340,000). The San’in Kaigan Geopark encompasses the northwestern Tango Peninsula coast. The geology and rock formations are amazing, three million year old columnar joints of magma jut up out of the sea providing perches for camouflaged hawks. The effect is dazzling; dramatic, postcard-perfect views. Historical remains from the Jomon period (13,000BC to 300BC) such as pottery, jewellery and tools have also been unearthed in the area, and are preserved in the local Tango Ancient Museum. A series of Kofun burial mounds like mini-Stonehenges are easily accessible, too — you can waltz right into one on a

walking tour. The town of Ine has been transformed into an architecture preservation district. Built right on the water it is famous for its Funaya boathouses, often with the traditional bamboo frame poking through the earthen walls. Replete with ‘ground floor’ garages left open for the fishermen’s vessels to moor directly inside the confines of the house, you sense these are spaces that must get awfully drafty during winter. While in Ine, you can also visit and tour the 300-year-old sake brewery where you can sample a swig of rice wine 15 years in the making. In the process you will likely be charmed by the seventh generation of brew masters into having a meal together or going fishing. Just down the coast from Ine you reach one of Japan’s ‘Top Three Views of Scenic Beauty’. Amanohashidate or the Bridge to Heaven ranks up there with Japan’s other two top views: the massive vermillion ‘floating’ torii peace gate of Miyajima Island in Hiroshima, and the 200 plus pinecovered islands of Miyagi Prefecture called

Matsushima — literally ‘pine islands’. A manmade, 4km-long sandbar disguised tastefully by more than 8,000 pine trees, Amanohashidate separates a large fishing bay from the slightly wilder waters of the sea. Climb the steps to the Kasamatsu Park viewpoint and look at the land bridge between your legs beneath your feet. I promise everybody else will be doing it, too. If you find yourself there in autumn when the momiji (maple tree) foliage turns from green to canary yellow and burgundy, go a bit higher up the mountain to Nariai-ji Temple. There you will find yourself in the shadow of a bright red, five-tiered pagoda. The surrounding meadow and pond are covered by bright, recently fallen leaves, painting a technicolour climax to the year before winter’s frozen shades of grey settle in.

The Elements The weather on the Tango Peninsula is humbling, especially in winter. You may not think that living literally a hop, skip

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and a jump to the sea would put you in a climate conducive to such an incredibly White Christmas, but it does. The culprit? Cold Siberian winds that blow fiercely over hundreds of miles of flat seas, bombarding Tango with almost daily assaults of hail, sleet and snow. When that piercing wind chill hits, it is hard to believe the thermometer that still reads just -4 degrees Celsius is accurate. This goes on unrelenting for four months, making the memory of snorkelling in the calm aquamarine summer sea just a few months before feel like a lifetime ago. In winter, though frigid, as the seas turn navy to silver to black, the sleepy fishing village of Taiza warms up into its peak tourist season. Taiza’s tiny port houses about a dozen small fishing boats that catch some of the country’s finest winter kani (crab), the matsuba snow crab, for just three months each year. These huge, bright orange spiders of the sea, kept alive on ice, are auctioned off early in the morning, sometimes garnering bids of ¥10,000 a piece (about VND2.6 million)! Local ryokan (bed and breakfast-style guesthouses) capitalize all winter on busloads of Japanese coming to gorge on kani shoku — prepared crab feasts that can run up a hefty tab equivalent to two or three hundred dollars per person. Crafty fishermen of some neighbouring towns have started tagging their crabs as Taiza kani to fetch higher bids from restaurant buyers not in the know. The secret to surviving the Tango winter is frequent visits to the area’s numerous hot spring spas called onsen. All over Japan community bathhouses are the norm but in the city they may only offer hot water and perhaps some weird electro-shock pool with melon scent. Tango, however, has 40 natural springs and a number of those have been developed into spas and small resorts, always nestled attractively in the landscape. The community pools are geo-thermally heated so the water provides an assortment of healing minerals to soak in for an hour or so, until you get the feeling back in your toes. You are also guaranteed to catch up on the local gossip as sitting naked with three old guys in a Japanese-sized sauna loosens your tongue as well as having a way of opening up more than just your pores.

The Forgotten Land

Gathering seaweed on Hei beach

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Kyouga Misaki, the cape furthest north in the prefecture, is an overgrown mountainous area inhabited by wild pigs, bears and monkey families that frequently leave their excrement on the roadside. It is also home to one of Japan’s biggest and brightest lighthouses, teetering on a cliff 120 meters above the sea. A 20-minute hike takes you to the chalk-white lighthouse that has been guiding ships in the night (especially firefly squid fishermen) for over 100 years. Last year it got a makeover in the form of a massive new, cutting-edge crystal, one of only five existing examples in Japan. From this point, recommended viewing at sunset, you have more than a 180-degree

Farmers in the Tango Peninsular view of the Sea of Japan. On a clear day you can actually see the bend of the horizon. One warm spring afternoon I went for a walk to gather plants after a co-worker kindly introduced me to the culture of sansai tori ni iku (picking wild mountain edibles) and found wasabi growing by a stream. I picked a root stock, took it home and ground it fresh on my soba noodles with soy sauce — simple. The wasabi root didn’t make the meal, though. It was the plentiful nature and giving culture of Tango. Why aren’t there more tourists coming here? Because if you invite too many people to come and take, contrary to the farmer’s dilemma, what will be left? Perhaps a local tourist brochure sums it up best when it proclaims that a visit to Tango is ‘a trip of nature and culture’. While not altogether poetic, I think the brochure hits the right balance. After all, it is the delicate equilibrium struck between the two here on the Tango Peninsula that makes Kyoto’s forgotten north a place worth visiting.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR J Muzacz is the artist and author behind the recently published ballpoint retrospective of Japan, JAPAN 365: A Drawing-A-Day. He lived on the Tango Peninsula for two years teaching English, learning Japanese and drawing pictures. Now he is cycling the length of Japan for the environment with a small group called BEE, Bicycle for Everyone’s Earth. You can follow their two-wheeled adventure at www. beejapan.org.

GETTING THERE You can get to Kyoto Prefecture by flying from either Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi to Osaka. Kyoto City is 55km from Osaka. The Tango Peninsula is in the northwest of the prefecture, bordering the Sea of Japan.

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SAFETY SPECIAL

On the Watch One of the unfortunate realities of living in any big city is the risk of petty theft and Ho Chi Minh City is no exception. But being a victim isn’t inevitable if you follow these precautions. Words by James Allen. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

he city is packed, the gap between rich and poor is vast and there are enough tourists and residents to supply muggers with high-priced loot that they can sell on. It’s far too easy to be lulled into a false sense of security in a city where everyone seems so friendly, and the streets safe. But the danger is out there and being a victim of a mugging is far more common than you’d think. Women are not the sole targets, neither are expats or tourists. Thieves aren’t picky and they will target anyone. Whether it’s a camera, nice jewellery or a shiny new smart phone, if they think they can sell it, it’s theirs, and although fighting back isn’t advisable, being prepared and vigilant can save not only the contents of your bag, it might also keep you from a lengthy hospital visit. There are many ways to limit the likelihood of being mugged, but of all the advice, simply being aware of your surroundings and operating with a decent amount of common sense can decrease your chances tenfold.

Prevent, Prepare, Beware Reading consular advice can be useful, as can asking someone who has lived here for a good amount of time — after all nothing beats a good bit of been-there-done-that wisdom. Doing your research should also help to dispel some myths surrounding the subject, but luckily there is a wealth of experience out there that can be easily condensed into these handy pieces of advice

from those who were once victims. 1) The Buddy System Walking home with friends after a few drinks can be a useful way to deter muggers —who usually work with a partner in crime. So there is no harm in evening up the odds. 2) Preventive Measures This can be as simple as avoiding poorly lit alleys and if your buddy is unavailable, keeping your head high and walking with a brisk sense of purpose. 3) Travel Light Leave as much as you can at home, especially important documents such as your passport and driving license. 4) Be Prepared No one likes a pessimist, but planning ahead can save you a world of effort if the worst should happen. Keep photocopies (back and front) of all important pieces of identification at home, and make sure all your contacts including numbers to cancel your cards are saved on your laptop or in a notebook. 5) Buy a Rucksack If this isn’t an option, make sure your bag strip is sturdy and wear it over your shoulder, keeping hold of it while travelling by xe om and in moments when you suspect a potential threat. If possible buy a money

belt to wear under your clothes or just keep your valuables in your front pockets. 6) Don’t Flash the Cash Showing off your money won’t do you any favours, nor will standing by busy roads taking pictures with expensive cameras or iPads. There is no shame in swapping your smart phone for a cheaper model while zipping around the city. 7) Better Safe Than Sorry If you notice anything suspicious or think that someone is following you, head towards a more populated area and call the police (113). Although English speaking operatives aren’t a common occurrence, there are always helpful people around to ask for help. 8) Be Vigilant Mugging is largely an opportunistic crime, so keep your eyes peeled and as difficult as it might seem, don’t give anyone the chance to see you as anything but a confident, no-nonsense person that’s aware of their surroundings. 9) The Price of Life You are worth more than the contents of your bag or smart phone. If your attacker grabs your bag or phone, let them. There have been many reports of retaliation involving knives or victims being run over in the attacker’s haste to escape.

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SAFETY SPECIAL

The Robbed Reports Several residents describe their run-ins with muggers, proving that everyone, regardless of age, sex and nationality, is a target

Thanh, 28, Vietnamese At 11.30pm one evening in June 2012, I drove home with my handbag hung on the left handle bar near the mirror of the motorbike. I was driving fast on Nguyen Huu Canh when suddenly two guys came from behind trying to cut my handbag with a knife, but they missed! I stopped and yelled at them as they were about 100 metres away from me. I was scared because they had a knife so I made a U-turn and started shouting, “Thief! Thief!” They then turned their bikes to chase me. There were other vehicles coming from the other street, so when they came across me again, I changed my direction to avoid the traffic. I tried to use my bike to hit them but I fell off and saw the guy jumping off his bike with the knife in his hand. I ran away, for fear he might stab me, while he quickly cut my handbag strap and [they] drove away. I think that these two guys had been following me because I was driving alone very late on a quiet street. The mirror on my bike was broken so I couldn’t observe what was happening behind me. The way I hung my bag on the handle bar was very dangerous because it was a target for the thieves. Women are said to be the target of most robberies therefore they should not go out alone on the street late at night, and [should] keep their belongings hidden.

Nacho, 34, Spanish I was walking home from the Opera House area when, near the bus station, close to Ben Thanh Market, two lady-boys stopped their motorcycle and came to talk to me in a manner that was a bit too friendly. One of them stayed on the motorbike waiting while her friend came closer and grabbed my balls. It was not fun. Then she went on and on about how good her ‘services’ were. I was confused for a moment, trying to let this

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lady boy know that I didn't need what she was offering, when I noticed her hand down in my pocket trying to get my wallet out, albeit unsuccessfully. When I realised what was going on I took her hand out of my pocket and told them in no uncertain terms to disappear quickly. And they did. Since then I've met other people (mostly guys) who have had very similar experiences with the same couple of guyscum-gals in the area. Ways to avoid it? If you get drunk in Saigon at night, don't walk, take a taxi. And if someone starts being too friendly or just plain weird, you should suspect something is going on. Watch out for your wallet, and your balls.

Natalie, 27, British I’d been quite conscious of the danger as I know other people who’ve been mugged. No loose straps hanging where anyone could grab them, and no straps across my body so if my bag was snatched I wouldn’t be dragged down the street. I wasn’t giving them the opportunity. So instead, when it happened they followed me home and waited until I got off a xe om outside my house. I opened my bag to get out my wallet and keys when two guys on a bike sped into the alley. I think I just had time to notice how well-dressed they were and how expensive their bike was so [thought] they probably weren’t dangerous — some rich kids messing about maybe, stupid me — then I was hit over the head and pulled over as they grabbed my handbag. Not too badly hurt, just cuts and bruises. Because they knew where I lived and had my house keys we had to change the locks. I also had to replace my bankcard, buy a new camera, a new phone — just money, nothing sentimental. But it was much more upsetting

than I’d thought it would be. It happens so often in Saigon that it’s easy to be blasé about it, until it happens to you.

Brigitte, 70, French It was 10.30am on a Sunday, and I was walking down Nguyen Hue wearing a dress with a pocket and as usual I held my handbag on my left side, its large strap passed over my head on my right shoulder. As I crossed the street, two men on a motorbike noticed me, and the driver turned his handlebars in my direction and accelerated right into me. One of the guys roughly trapped my left hand and the impact made me fall, everything went very quickly, I was on the floor in the middle of the street, then I was dragged and finally let go after which I saw the scooter driving down away at full speed, my bag in their hands. I attempted to get myself up twice, without success as my left side hurt badly and my left leg couldn’t support me. Two traffic policemen arrived. Some passers-by tried to help me reach the other side of the street. Finally, I was assisted to the kerb. I didn’t have any money or a means to contact anyone as my phone was in my now-stolen bag, so I lay on the floor for 20 minutes until a kind young girl stopped a taxi where the police dragged me onto the asphalt and finally into the taxi and off to hospital. The kind girl, Trang, managed to cancel all my bank cards on her smart phone and contact someone from the NGO that I work at before we arrived at the hospital. After a lot of tests and four days in the hospital, I learned that I had a heamotoma and muscle trauma to the left hip, which after four weeks and medication I am still trying to recover from. When I can walk again I will find Trang and thank her profusely for all her kindness.

USE PROTECTION SAFETY SPECIAL

Kim Vy has searched high and low to find a selection of anti theft products to take you and the contents of your bag out of the line of fire.

MOBILE PHONE/ CAMERA CASE Hello247 (245/6 Nguyen Trai, Q1) This case provides you with multiple carrying options with the neck strap. Your mobile phone or camera will never be lost again. Comes in many designs and colours at VND270,000.

INCOGNITO

SIZE MATTERS

106 Bui Vien, Q1

U.Best House (51 Bui Vien, Q1) www.bagvina.com

People usually carry small items such as their wallets, keys, phones, passport in their pockets, which is a good opportunity for pickpockets to grab your goods. Even a bag can be risky, so go incognito with an underthe-clothes hidden bag you can attach around your waist. Prices start at VND50,000.

SPRING HOOK U.Best House (51 Bui Vien, Q1) Made of aluminum with different colours and shapes, provides a spring snap to prevent accidental unhooking. You can use one to carry your keys, mobile phones or mp3 players at your waist, or many of them to make a wallet chain. Starts at VND20,000.

TRACKING APPS ON THE CHEAP www.thegioididong.com

BELT IT CHAINED AND READY 146 Bui Vien, Q1 Not only a 90s fashion statement, they can also come in handy when attaching your wallet to your person to prevent theft. Prices start from VND80,000 depending on material and design.

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Hello247 (245/6 Nguyen Trai, Q1) This is another option to protect your phone, fasten it at your waist under your top. Prices start at VND75,000 depending on material and design.

So, you have a laptop? Never put it in backpacks or bags with thin straps, snatchers can cut it with a very sharp knife and your laptop will be history. There is a huge range of backpacks and bags with thick straps on Bui Vien or De Tham. Be sure to check the quality and strength of the stitching where the strap is attached. Price starts at VND300,000.

Pickpockets and bag snatchers always pay attention to expensive phones when you’re out and about. Cheap phones are always the solution when going out, especially at night. Models and prices differ, but if you’re not picky, you can buy a brand new one for VND449,000 at www.thegioididong. com, or a secondhand one for under VND300,000 at any mobile phone store.

www.play.google.com www.itunes.apples.com Along with other anti-theft solutions, there are many apps out there to find your lost, stolen or misplaced smart phone. Go to play.google.com, search “Find my phone” for around VND21,000 or “Find my iPhone” for free on itunes.apples. com. If you do lose your phone, just send it a text message and the app will locate your phone on a map and have it ring at maximum volume (even if volume is off). Remember to install the app in your phone and the GPS.

BUSINESS

Shades of Green Fans of broccoli, cauliﬂower and mixed greens living in Vietnam have a couple of hectares of Dalat farmland and a conscientious American to thank. Douglas Pyper talks to Bob Allen to understand how his family operation in the mountains of Central Vietnam aﬀected the whole country’s eating habits. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

ive somewhere for 20 years and that place is going to have an effect on you. But will you have an effect on it? When Bob Allen moved to Vietnam in 1991, he couldn’t have known quite what a change he would have in the everyday diet of the Vietnamese. In 1994, he settled down in Dalat with his wife and thought he would “try to do something”. In a relaxed American drawl heavy with fatalism, Bob muses, “Farming seemed like a safe innocuous thing for an American to do in those days.” With his Golden Garden farm produce and his mini supermarket chain, Veggy’s, two decades later Bob can genuinely say he has changed the way this country eats. In the early 1990s, was it necessary for Vietnam to clean up its food production? Were too many chemicals and unsafe practices being used? Absolutely. I worked closely with the department of agriculture and [with] one lady in particular who spent most of her time investigating poisonings. It was all traced back to vegetables about 90 percent of the time. So what’s changed? Are safer pesticides being used? Yes they are. In the last few years they’ve been trying to clean it up. In the early days there were a lot of dodgy chemical products coming in to the country, unregulated, not labelled properly, [and] farmers weren’t really trained how to do it. There is a lot more available now to do organic production. For example we have a very, very high organic input. By that I mean we use organic fertilisers, we use cow fertilisers, we use forest mulching … and have reduced the use of synthetic materials to a minimum. We try to limit chemicals. If we have to use it, then we observe the re-entry period and we try to use the safest thing possible, botanicals, things

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made from plants. It’s about taking care of the land and the land taking care of you, as opposed to just taking the cheap way out: buying chemicals. I take it then that you’re not completely against using chemicals in farming? If we have to use them we will. We have problems with pests sometimes, but we move the crop to another area, rather than trying to kill them all. It’s about sustainability; keeping chemical use to a minimum. Is it possible to be organic in Vietnam? First off, [in Vietnam] who’s going to certify that you’re organic? You don’t really have any confident certification from the authorities here, and if you were exporting and you had a Vietnamese company certifying your organic production, I’m not sure how well it’s going to be believed. Simply because we’re still a developing country and there is a track record. Farming in Dalat is another example. It’s always been the vegetable basket of Vietnam. With all the years of chemical abuse there, you have a situation where the ground water is contaminated with nitrates, even the city water — I’ve done tests on my wells. So you’re always going to have nitrates somewhere along the line because someone else along from you is using chemicals. If you’re sucking water out of that same source then you’re going to get the run off. And it’s also even in the air. We have high humidity at times and we get acid rain. In the rain you can also find nitrates. It’s not practical, unless you get well away from established farms, into the forest and start from scratch, to be truly organic. Is becoming organic something you have an interest in doing? I’ve considered it in the past, but I think the demand worldwide is slowing down. It’s

not the buzzword it was a few years ago. In my estimation, what I’d have to do to make my produce truly organic and make myself comfortable with it, it would be expensive and I don’t think it’s worthwhile — from a business point of view. Is it desirable from a health and safety perspective or a dietary perspective to have purely organic vegetables? Whether consuming purely organic produce is better for you, I don’t know. But I will say that consuming residue products can be harmful for your health. Do you feel that your business model has influenced Vietnamese farms? I like to think that we’ve influenced the way farmers do things quite a lot, at least in the Dalat area. They are bringing a better and a safer product these days than they would be if we’d never come along. Back in 1991 or 1992, there were only two basic salads in the country. We didn’t have broccoli and we didn’t have zucchini. A lot of the things that I’ve introduced have now become widespread. What have farmers specifically taken from your operation? Using mulching film. I was probably one of the first. Keeping the product clean and safe, adopting safer chemicals and using less of it, following labels and directions, not being so dependent on chemicals. The way our farms are organised, we work — sowing, planting, harvesting, shipping — six days a week, 52 weeks in a year. That’s 40 or 50 products at any given time. It’s complicated. A market garden if you will. So, I think more and more, [the Vietnamese farmers] are learning how to space things out, to plant things in a sequence and on a schedule, have a variety of products rather than have a single crop. They’re getting more money by doing it this way than they ever did with a single crop system [because] they’re not so dependent on one particular product. It’s about contingency. The farmers didn’t do that before? No, they had no idea. Going back the main thing was cabbage, two different types of lettuce, there were the potato guys, the tomato guys, the onion people — it was pretty basic. [Since then] they’ve learnt from us and you have people doing zucchini, cauliflower, broccoli and various types of salads. There is a bigger market now. Vietnamese people have learnt to enjoy these products rather than in the old days when it was limited to a handful of vegetables. Sounds like variety is important to the ethos of your farms and shops? Absolutely, right now, in our standard lettuce mixes, we must have 15 or 16 leafy items. It’s fast-moving, there are a wide range of products and we do it 52 weeks out of a year. The farms operate six days a week, the shops operate seven days a week and I operate 10 days a week.

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BUSINESS

On Fair Grounds While the trend elsewhere has been to neglect small farms in favour of larger, commercial enterprises, Vietnam has invested in its smallscale roots. It’s a move that has seen a dramatic reduction in poverty. Words by Rose Arnold. Illustration by Eddy Coubeaux

etween 1979 and 2007 Vietnam achieved what many thought was impossible. It reduced levels of poverty in the country by almost half. It’s a slice of success that has had development agencies citing Vietnam as an inspiration. It’s also a reminder that poverty isn’t just one of those inevitable things, such as death, that must be accepted. It has causes and it can be solved. Vietnam achieved this by bucking the world trend and perceived wisdom of the time. Worldwide, as in Vietnam, the vast majority of the poorest people live in rural areas. Vietnam focused poverty reduction efforts on rural families, on small farmers, on the poorest. During the period known as Doi Moi, or renovation, a raft of measures were introduced to build up the agricultural sector and to support small farms. Rights to rural land were given to families that relied on it for their livelihoods. Vietnam also opened up their markets and encouraged international trade, but they did so at their own rate. Changes were implemented cautiously with tariffs set at levels that protected the country’s interests. At first both the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund were critical of the slow pace of change. But by 2007 these measures had taken effect. The numbers of people living in extreme poverty had dropped from around 60 percent to about 15 percent.

In the Field While Vietnam was supporting farmers much of the rest of the world were moving in the opposite direction. Aid money given to support agriculture in developing countries plummeted. Between 1979 and 2006 the percentage of aid money being spent on agriculture fell from 18 percent of total assistance down to 2.9 percent — in real terms, a huge drop. This was despite evidence, such as that cited by the United Nation’s Food and Agriculture Organisation, that strengthening agricultural sectors “does more — at least twice as much — to reduce rural poverty than investment in any other sector”. At the same time, egged on by powerful

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lobby groups, developed countries were ramping up the level of agricultural investment at home. Poor countries found it increasingly hard to compete in the global market, many deciding to focus on other sectors instead. Government investment in agriculture fell by one third in Africa and as much as two thirds in Asia and Latin America. These countries didn’t fare as well as Vietnam. Poverty in Africa is a growing problem. Between 1990 and 2005 the number of people living in extreme poverty rose by 92 million up to 391 million people. India, like Vietnam, opened its markets (although they did so as part of the International Monetary Fund’s bailout conditions and at a faster rate than Vietnam). However they didn’t take the same approach of supporting small famers or focusing efforts on rural areas. India has experienced huge levels of financial growth, but while it can boast dramatic increases in the number of home-grown millionaires, the numbers of people living in extreme poverty also rose by 65 million.

Big But Not Beautiful Not everyone who sees the value of investing in agriculture supports investment in small farmers. Some argue that bigger is better. Big farms are more productive, economy of scale is everything and specialism in one crop is best. But big farms aren’t successful just because they are big. They have profited from investment in technology, knowledge, and have sufficient cash flow to ride out any glitches and money to reinvest when times are good. Compare that to small farms. Poor farmers have to work with basic equipment and don’t have access to credit or insurance to buffer their income through bad times. Hunger and related illness often impact on productivity. In times of financial desperation, farmers have no option but to sell possessions such as livestock, thereby reducing earning capacity of the farm. Given support and investment, small farms can be incredibly effective. According to a Fairtrade Foundation report, “a considerable body of evidence” shows that in the long

term, small farms will produce more per hectare than large commercial farms, which grow only one crop. Certainly in Vietnam, the 70 percent of rice cultivators who were smallholder farmers played a vital part in the country’s transformation. In the late 1970s and early 1980s, this was a nation unable to feed itself. Now it is the world’s second largest exporter of rice. In addition, the remote areas where many people live are not suitable for large commercial farms.

The Next Phase Globally there is an increasing recognition of the value of supporting small farmers in reducing poverty. Yet, today in Vietnam the focus seems to be shifting in the opposite direction. In 2005 the Vietnamese Ministry for Agriculture and Rural Development produced a development strategy outlining future plans. Poverty reduction was increasingly going to be ‘decentralised’ with international and community organisations funding and managing this work. The state would provide infrastructure, including the new roads needed by rural farmers to be able to sell their produce, but increasingly foreign and private investment would fund agriculture projects. The plan did recognise the continuing role of agriculture for reducing the poverty levels of the ethnic minorities, and included aims to hand over areas of forest. It also outlined an intention to introduce viable insurance schemes for farmers. But for Vietnam as a whole, there seems to be a move from agriculture in favour of construction and industry, with targets set for shifting employment away from agriculture into jobs in these areas. Compensation for farmers who lost their land in the move to industrialisation would take the form of training opportunities and jobs in other industries, such as labouring on construction projects. Vietnam has an impressive track record to date on both reducing poverty and increasing the affluence of the country. Let’s hope that the new-found wealth of the skyscrapers can trickle down to people on the ground, and that jobs in industry and construction help continue this progress.

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OUT & ABOUT

Sweet Sensation Going against his dentist’s wishes, James Allen discovers the sweeter things in life, one bite at a time. Photos by Charles Barnes

f you have a mighty sweet tooth, then you’re in the right city to abuse your need for the sugary stuff. Forget Belgian chocolate, decadent pastries and all the other good-looking things you associate with dessert. Hyperactive sugar hunters need look no further than the strange, sometimes questionable looking candy and pastries native to Vietnam, some of which require a huge step out of your candy comfort zone. Ranging from the rich to the humble, the eye catching to the eye watering, we have rounded up a veritable bag of pick n’ mix filled with the best local sweets available around the city.

O Mai Dac Biet Phuong Khanh, Tel: 0907 196719 Visually it may look like something you find at the bottom of your drain, but it’s actually really morish. Full of orange, liquorice, tamarind, peanuts and ginger, biting into one of these bad boys is quite brilliant. The words o mai come from the Vietnamese term for teenager, tuoi o mai to be exact. According to Khanh, whose family has been making the candy for a generation, the reason behind the name lies in the popularity of o mai among teenagers, often keeping the candy in their pockets during class time. Her family specialises in two additional varieties similar to their dac biet recipe above. One without nuts and the third recipe is made using Chinese oranges or kumquats instead of tamarind and again without nuts. When all of the ingredients are combined they pour the mixture into a big pan that sits ready on the stove. During the cooking process, which takes three hours, the gooey candy has to be stirred regularly until

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Banh Bo Dua

Moon Cake

the mixture melts and begins to get sticky. After that, they move the pan off the stove and leave the concoction to cool. Finally, they shape the sticky stuff into balls and roll them in a tray full of liquorice. O mai may look a little scary and often quite hairy, but they’re worth a try.

Moon Cake Most street sides, bakeries and hotels shops One of the few unshriveled/good looking sweet things is a seasonal cake which comes around only once a year, the infamous moon cake or banh trung thu. Making its annual appearance during the mid-autumn festival, moon pies come in all shapes and sizes, colours and flavours, from modest vegan options to calorific salted duck egg filled varieties more commonly associated with the holiday. Heavy and generally full with upwards of 1,000 calories per pie, they are bought in the thousands and shared among family or given as gifts throughout the festival. Common flavours range from taro and green bean to the more adventurous such as green tea and a mixed variety with or without meat complete with a taste that is difficult to describe. This year the mid-autumn festival begins on Sep. 15, but leading up to this and beyond, countless pop up street side shops appear selling seemingly limitless amounts of moon cakes to anyone passing by. By no means a cheap after dinner solution, banh trung thu generally starts from VND60,000 and up with some boxes going for sums in the millions, usually reserved for only the best clients and friends, but much like Santa, they only

O Mai come round once a year. So you should probably make the most of them before they vanish for another 12 months.

Me Duong Muoi Ot Ben Thanh Market, Q1 Me duong muoi ot literally means tamarind sugar salt chilli, and pretty much sums up this bizarre candy. Each piece of tamarind flesh contains a bullet hard stone covered in a mixture designed to confuse the palette and bewitch the taste buds. Tamarind itself grows in abundance in Vietnam but first originated in Africa. Now found in many adequately tropical countries, it is used in a number of cuisines and dishes, even, oddly enough, Worcestershire sauce. Making candy out of the sour chunks

Me Duong Muoi Ot has proved incredibly popular, especially when coated in sugar and fiery chilli, spicy enough to make your nose run and sweet or salty enough to transform your face into something quite grotesque. Luckily me duong muoi ot is worth the trouble. A stone is usually present in each chunk, and don’t be fooled into thinking it’s candy. One overenthusiastic bite of these invincible pebble sized pips and you may just find yourself with a dentist’s hand in your mouth.

Banh Bo Opposite the World Nail School at 184 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 Anemic in appearance and subtle in flavour, banh bo or ‘beef cake’ luckily doesn’t live up to its namesake. Generally

Banh Bo about the size of a walnut and with a texture not dissimilar to that of an English crumpet, they were originally popular in southern China. Consisting of coconut milk, rice flour, water, sugar and yeast, banh bo can be found in pretty colours all over the city, piled up in little glass cabinets and sold with crushed salty peanuts to dip the slightly oiled surface of the cake.

Banh Bo Dua Along Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Banh bo dua, banh bo’s somewhat jazzier cousin, is relatively new to the street food scene, only gaining popularity in the late 2000s. Available from mobile carts-cumgrills, they resemble fat hockey pucks made of pancake batter. It’s only until

you take a bite that you find the puck to be hollow and packed with shredded coconut and sweetened mung bean. These carts are everywhere — look out for the complicated jerk like motion of the stall holders who manage to create the cylindrical shape with a flick of the wrist, swirling the batter around a circular pan before it goes on the grill. The understated banh bo is also the subject of a famous, if impossible to pronounce tongue twister. “Bà Ba bán bánh bò bên bờ biển, bị bác Bảy bắn bùm bùm,” which roughly translated means, “While Mrs Ba was selling banh bo by the seashore, she got shot by Mr Bay.” Luckily a bite of these little cakes should leave a sweeter taste in your mouth than it did in Mrs. Ba’s.

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THE PRICES

MYSTERY DINER

From minimalist fusion food to hearty pub grub, our critic willingly embraces a couple of kilos for your dining pleasure. Photos by EJ Chung and Charles Barnes

Xu 75 HAI BA TRUNG, Q1. TEL: 3824 8468

lush and indulgent, Xu’s main currency is escapism. A long bar manned with more than capable mixologists downstairs is an instant draw. But we were here for the food, so we headed upstairs into the soft lighting and intimacy of the dining area. Boasting a well-conceived collaboration between Vietnamese cuisine and overseas cooking styles, and with the likes of Square One and Blanchy’s Tash just a stone’s throw away, our expectations were high. The Manhattan I ordered was exactly how I like it — balanced, with just a slight sweetness from the vermouth and a healthy kick. Very pleased with my cocktail, our appetisers arrived; we had gone with the rib eye fresh spring rolls and the infamous mini burgers. The fresh spring rolls were, well, fresh spring rolls, plus beef and your standard herbs, and unfortunately, not a lot of either. The accompanying hoisin sauce added an edge the dish needed, but after four very small rolls, we were left

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MANHATTAN VND110,000 MINI HAMBURGERS VND110,000 RIB EYE FRESH SPRING ROLLS VND180,000 TAMARIND BRAISED BEEF VND320,000

trying to remember the taste of the beef. The mini hamburgers, as always, were fantastic. No more comments needed here. Our main dishes appeared and we couldn’t help but be impressed. The tamarind braised beef looked immaculate and if I had whipped out a ruler, the four nearly identical pieces of tender beef would have been exactly the same distance from one another. I was looking forward to the tamarind biting me back, but it wasn’t so much a bite as a faint nibble. The beef itself was beautifully cooked, falling apart nicely. The pumpkin was smooth and sweet, stealing focus somewhat from the meat, but the blink and you miss it bok choy, although pretty, faded into the background. Definitely more punch needed. The desserts at Xu are better described as ‘bites’. Admittedly on the cheaper side, they are the size of postage stamps. The taste of them was for the most part good, but the white chocolate custard was vague and the che troi nuoc was a carbon copy of what I have eaten on the street. The chocolate brownie and the kumquat

truffle were brilliant, but for me needed to be a touch larger to form a proper bite. Vietnamese cuisine, renowned for its taste, simple fresh ingredients and above all, accessibility, is always a tricky one to incorporate into a more sophisticated, top-end environment without people thinking ‘this costs VND5,000 outside’. Xu is intimate, chic and the service is so good the waiting staff know what you want before you want it. Although the dishes were definitely pleasant and tasty, they lacked the oomph necessary to transform such familiar ingredients into something truly memorable.

WHITE CHOCOLATE CUSTARD VND25,000 CHE TROI NUOC VND25,000 CHOCOLATE KUMQUAT TRUFFLE VND25,000 CHOCOLATE BROWNIE VND25,000 THE VERDICT

10 13 12.5 FOOD

SERVICE

DÉCOR

R.E.D Bar and Restaurant 70-72 NGO DUC KE, Q1 THE PRICES R.E.D WITH ITS RED-LIT SIGN ADDS some life to this relatively uneventful street, noise comfortably falling out of its doors as well as the odd customer after one too many. Recently changing its name from Red Drum (Trong Do), the popular downtown watering hole has renovated its upstairs area to a more diner friendly space. Modern in design without being too sterile, the area upstairs manages to live up to the bar’s name-cum-acronym — relax, eat and drink. The menu is a mixed bag, featuring good solid pub grub and with a welcome focus on lamb, a meat not always seen on the restaurant scene in Saigon. For the appetiser, I headed straight for the lamb sausages with aioli dipping sauce. More than enough to share, the plate of little skewers were moist to the touch and dripping with a rich distinctly lamb-y flavour. My whisky arrived in a shot glass, after a few attempts to correct it and much confusion, it arrived in a glass, by which time I was glad of it. The tang of the aioli sliced right through

the tasty lightly spiced lamb sausages, creating an awesome mix of flavours. The sting of room temperature whisky at the end was in a word, beautiful. Still hell bent on the brilliant New Zealand lamb I ordered the Red lamb burger, which came complete with goat’s cheese. The fries were unfortunately more of a garnish and although the patty was only a little smaller than my fist, it was incredibly thick, leaving the inside pink and the texture deliciously smooth and juicy. The goat’s cheese, an interesting touch, fought with the lamb and added extra weight to the dish where none was needed. The desserts were sadly quite thin on the ground, with a choice of either mango or apple tart and ice cream. Not overly inspired we went with the apple tart and in spite of our reservations, it wasn’t bad, instead of a sugary mess it tasted like the intended fruit but it didn’t blow us away, although it did satisfy our sugar craving. All in all, the food was solid, the lamb won me over completely, the prices were

reasonable and the atmosphere welcoming. The service did suffer occasionally, but everyone was friendly and no doubt with a large group of friends and some live music, this place could well prove to be a great night out, food included.

Food, decor and service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15: 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair

RED BAR LAMB BURGER VND185,000 SHOT OF J.W. BLACK VND80,000 LAMB SAUSAGES VND120,000 APPLE TART VND65,000 THE VERDICT

12 10 11 FOOD

SERVICE Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

DÉCOR

LEISURE

Life in Recycle Based on the concept of rejuvenating discarded objects, two friends have turned shipping container crates and anything else they can ﬁnd into the latest hang out craze. Words by Ed Weinberg. Photos by Doan Phuong Ha

ne of Saigon’s charms are the abrupt transitions, the journey from digital age office building to sidewalk cafe culture. But it’s not often you see these differences reconciled. The gritty, unpolished industrialism of the city — reflected in Saigon Outcast’s shipping container components — balanced by a modern approach to design and space has to be seen to be believed. Though the venue hasn’t officially opened yet, Linh Nguyen and Doan Phuong Ha are too excited with its possibilities to keep it under strict wraps. They held a BBQ there and then another and a conversation on DIY culture they hosted the week after. There’s a balance in there, one as carefully struck as the bolts placed in the containers’ supports. The two are friends, just friends — but all the same, life-and-death friends. They share the same ideas, a creative marriage made in geek heaven. “I met Ha at Gameloft. Ha was really funny. We become friends and recently we decided, let’s do something... crazy.”

Old & New As I wait to speak with Linh and Ha at the DIY event, I take in a presentation on bio-tuning — a diesel engine’s conversion to biodiesel. The presenter, Hai Nguyen, is an ethnographer who has studied SoCal (Southern California) youth and their cars. He talks about how customisation creates a personal meaning, how the unusual needs of DIY engender a social network, in this case of restaurant owners with used vegetable oil to burn. Somehow it all seems relevant. Linh steps up next. “Originally we wanted to build a place for bikers,” she says, “for people who customise motorcycles, classic motorcycles. Instead of diesel we like gasoline, greasy gasoline.” That visceral connection with process is definitely part of the aesthetic, and Linh and Ha are active in pursuing it. Instead of buying new furniture, they go to scrap yards and use their imagination on old pieces. The half-pipe is made of old wooden house panels from before the war, contoured and grafted together. The trees are from properties around Thao Dien that had no use for them. The rocks under our feet are from Vung Tau, scraps of tiles sent from Korea. “We want to give things a second life,” Ha explains, “a second chance to be something better.” They even did that with the land, marsh land like much of the Thao Dien area, having laid down seven layers of foundation since they started work in April. The containers — the iconic part of Outcast, stacked two-high like Lego pieces — have been around the globe, and still have tracking marks on them which they plan to someday trace. If they need to, they can stack them on a truck and move them to a beach somewhere. When they put the containers up, people

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just thought, “Oh these are containers for someone to live in while they’re building something bigger — but this is it,” Linh tells us. “The local people just said, ‘Ah young people, they have all these ideas.’”

In All Directions Outcast is continuing to grow in unexpected directions. Work is ongoing on a bar-kitchen, where Ha will soon practice her subtle northern techniques on paying customers. There are plans for a bike workshop and more graffiti on the walls. Even small things are open to these relaxed directions — like the spontaneous BBQ I stumble into a few days later. We find a quiet corner to talk in, next to some split-log swings, one of the more reflective climates on a property with energy niches coursing through it. I ask Ha what gives Outcast such a different feel, the energy that people respond so well to. “I find it quite amazing,” she tells me, “because the last few weeks we met so many like-minded people.” We’re

surrounded by them tonight — in midconversation, someone asks the sound a frog makes in Vietnamese. “Ekko!” Ha yells before turning back to me. “Before we would go to nightclubs and get wasted, we didn’t know about each other at all... But [people] come here and can have real conversation, they come here and they feel good, like they want to create something.” Right now this is the most important thing in both their lives, this sharp detour into the fantastic, this immersion in uncharted potential. Right now, neither wants the adventure to go static. “There are some values that don’t change,” Ha tells me when I try to pin down the uncertain future. “Right now I deal with life, like, I see what life can give me, don’t think about the future. How I live my life is tomorrow. I open up my fridge, see what there is, and then try to make the best dish out of it.” Saigon Outcast is located at 188 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2

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IDLE HANDS... With an infinite number of insane colours to choose from, whether you are a glitter queen or simply neon fantastic, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no excuse for boring nails. So have fun with your nail polish, after all, you know what they say about idle handsâ&#x20AC;Ś Blue glitter - DS Magic, VND209,000, Opi Neon pink - My digital life, VND180,000, Melia

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Photographs by Charles Barnes Styling by James Allen & Vu Ha Kim Vy September 2012 Word | 69

Green, VND49,000, The Faceshop Neon orange - Laugh out loud, VND180,000, Melia

Turquoise - Good luck, VND180,000, Melia Red - The Thrill of Brazil, VND209,000, Opi

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City Guide

Orange, VND49,000, The Faceshop

BUSINESS LISTINGS 074 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 082 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 092 / SOUND & VISION LISTINGS 110 / LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS 116 / LIFESTYLE LISTINGS 125 / GENERATION V LISTINGS 132 PHOTO BY DOAN PHUONG HA

AD D I T I O NA L F E AT U R E S

Melia www.meliabeauty.com Opi 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 The Faceshop Cnr. Nguyen Trai, Ton That Tung, Q1

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Destination Zero 084 Travel Promos 090 Foodie Corner 100 Food Promos 108 For The Record 111 Road Rules 112 Decks 'n' Drums 114 September 2012 Word | 73

BUSINESS

LISTINGS

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 074 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 074 BUSINESS CONSULTING 076 BUSINESS GROUPS 076 CONSUMER GIFTS 077 EVENT MANAGEMENT 077 EXPAT SERVICES 077 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 077 INSURANCE 078 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 078

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BUREAU VERITAS E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 2196 www.bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions firm working in all the major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC. Has over 900 offices worldwide in 140 countries.

DELOITTE VIETNAM 11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0751 www.deloitte.com/vietnam A member firm of Deloitte Touche

KPMG

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 078 LAUNDRY 079 LEGAL SERVICES 079 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 080 MARKET RESEARCH 080 PUBLIC RELATIONS 080 RECRUITMENT & HR 080 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 080 SERVICED APARTMENTS 081

Tohatsu. Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3827 0220 www.globaleye.com A financial advisory company that advises on everything from investments, offshore banking and education planning to life protection wills, pensions and more. Globaleye provide an invaluable resource for expats living in Vietnam who want to maintain tax efficient savings while having access to major fund houses such as Fidelity & JP Morgan from only VND3 million a month, and also to have the right insurance protection for families living on foreign soil.

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9266 www.kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides executive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED 7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: 3812 5562 www.odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions, as well as tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years of experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES 6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

TMF GROUP Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 2262 TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services.

Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING ADMAKER Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3910 3500 www.admaker.com.vn A local full service agency run by advertising professionals dedicated to providing clients with results orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

BATES 141 VIETNAM Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1 Tel: 3821 8632 www.bates141.com A full service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group. Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 6662 www.bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

COWAN – STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN 16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 3064 www.cowandesign.com Specialising in brand strategy and brand

design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies. Wholly owned with seven global offices — three of which are in Asia and working extensively across India, Southeast Asia and North Asia.

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM 13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn Draftfcb is one of the largest global advertising agency networks with headquarters in both Chicago and New York. Has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries including many in the region.

EDGE MARKETING 1Bis Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 3911 1191 www.edge–asia.com A creative marketing company that matches the results–driven requirements of modern business with the needs of the consumer. Embraces a wide range of modern technology and concepts to help provide a full–service marketing package to their clients.

GREY GROUP 404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3929 1450 www.grey.com/vietnam A full spectrum marketing communications company, Grey Group’s work includes PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Has offices in nearly 100 countries and major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA Villa B,12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: 3740 6388 www.industrialdesignasia.com Offers (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for all products; plastics, consumer products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia. Contact them to get a free quotation.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM 113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1, Tel: 3914 3615 www.marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented campaigns that have been selected as global best practice by both international and local clients.

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9529 www.ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know–how with a worldwide network. Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

PHIBIOUS 7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 6777 www.phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company growing fast throughout Indochina. Now with offices in Saigon, Phnom Penh and an association in Vientiane, Phibious employs over 70 staff that are driven towards helping brands connect and grow in this dynamic region. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3898 1005 www.purpleasia.com A leading independent creative communications company. Offers a wide

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range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

RED | BRAND BUILDERS 10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: 3820 0169 www.red.vn Long established, branding consultancy and marketing agency. From Vietnam to Australia, the red team create and shape unique brand personalities that add impact to international and local brands. The team regularly share industry trends, news and views at red.tm/blog.

RIVER ORCHID Tel: 3925 2538 www.riverorchid.com The only communications network specialising in Indochina including Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade. Riverorchid specialises in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 3 Phan Van Dat, Q1 Tel: 3824 1207 www.saatchi.com 60th among the top 100 global advertising agencies, the company has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world. Services include advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting, graphic design and advertising.

TBWA\VIETNAM Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3824 5315 www.tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, named Advertising Age’s “Best International Network of the Decade” in 2010 and ranked 24th on Fast Company’s 2009 list of “The World’s 50

Most Innovative Companies”. Marketing services include strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

TYA VIETNAM 3rd Floor, Lafayette Building, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3956 www.tya.com.vn Established 1982 in Japan, TYA is a strategic creative agency with a growing network across Asia Pacific. TYA uses this strength to match clients’ diverse business strategies. Their international team offers the TYA brand of strategic creative that strives to satisfy clients' business objectives to the fullest.

XONE FM 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 5341 www.xonefm.com The first independently run radio station in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest and hottest songs in both English and Vietnamese. Has 10 channels throughout the country, in Ho Chi Minh City on 104.5 FM and Hanoi on 102.7 FM. The schedule runs from Monday to Friday from 6am to 9am, 4pm to 11pm and at the weekends between 1pm and 11pm.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS 37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, el: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities

business for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3823 7858 www.bdg–vietnam.com BDG is one of the leading business development and consulting company in Vietnam active in the areas of sourcing & production, strategic marketing and Project Management. Partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open new perspectives, address critical challenges and drive business activities to success in Vietnam. BDG is a private company with four offices in three countries.

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

DL TECHNOLOGIES 69A1 Tran Ke Xuong, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3551 2260 www.dltechnologies.com.au DL Technologies provide premium integrated technology solutions with emphasis on local “on the ground” support from a highly skilled and continually trained international team. Services include background music systems, lighting management and control systems, security & access control systems, premium audio and video with automated controls, discreet audio and video, home theatre, iPad-based home control / audio video control systems, air-conditioning control and energy management systems.

business ERNST & YOUNG

and business behaviour skills.

8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES (VIETNAM) COMPANY LIMITED

GOLDEN SPEED SEO www.goldenspeedseo.com info@goldenspeedseo.com Get maximum exposure for your website by improving your rankings in search engines like Google. A steady flow of potential clients will visit your site every day once you have achieved a good position on search engines' results pages. Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

GRANT THORNTON 28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants working in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0916 352573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Huong Nguyen is a professional Image Consultant based in Ho Chi Minh City and the UK. An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette

8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3829 6416 www.prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering technical expertise in the areas of data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Specialist intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services. From the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services, include IP filing and management services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com Incorporation of offshore and foreign– owned Vietnamese companies. Opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts, providing licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing. Also provides, investment strategies and administration services for foreign-owned companies based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0904 410884 www.strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL is a strategic solutions provider serving as a long-term strategic partner with senior leaders and organisations in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Focuses on the future, striving to deliver superior results, customer value and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions, derived from a combination of research-based best-practice, consulting and learning with a focus on change, people, strategy and leadership.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD 164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 6291 2205 www.tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia. Their core strengths are corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion, and market

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research. Offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Thailand, China and India.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3562. www.amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Ho Chi Minh Chapter, Suite 1A, 1st Floor, TV Building, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0272/ 73/ 74 www.auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group in Vietnam established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating here. AusCham co–ordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations, and promotes profile charity events in Vietnam.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 8430 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums about doing business in Vietnam. Offers an array of seminars as well as social and networking events.

NORDCHAM 12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com Provides support to Nordic companies

and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM C3 Floor 5, 21-Century Apartment, 326/1 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh www.pbgvn.com A non-profit, non-government, and non-political organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding, to serve as the voice of Philippine business entities and establish relationships with other business associations in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcm.org A group with over 300 members who meet regularly to foster business relations with others in the community, as well as taking part in social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities. Hosts regular networking functions and special events. Membership is VND200,000 per month and allows you access to a wide range of discounts around town.

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2 Tel: 3744 6996 www.swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a nongovernmental, non-political, non-profit organisation that strives to promote business, economic, cultural activities and other interests of common concern to the Swiss Business Association’s members and the Vietnamese authorities.

CONSUMER GIFTS AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD. 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3824 8364 manish@ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and much more.

EVENT MANAGEMENT EVECOO Tel: 0988 297990 www.evecoo.vn Evecoo provides everything needed to plan, supply, organise, publicise, improve and implement a successful event. Evecoo gives every client specific attention and adds the needed magic to make any event memorable.

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6048 www.galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall in the centre of District 1 has four different ballrooms and a rooftop terrace, professional banquet, catering, and event services. Gala Royale is the ideal place for events such as meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings, or anniversaries.

MR BOUNCY INFLATABLE GAME HIRE 50/8 Hoa Binh, Q11 Tel: 0165 6392 507 www.mrbouncy.com.vn Mr Bouncy is an inflatable game hire company, offering great products hiring out a number of inflatables such as waterballs, bouncy castles and many more great items for parties and events.

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO.,LTD 268/3-5 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan binh Tel: 6675 2620 www.vietnam-weddings.com One World Tourism’s wedding planning business offers comprehensive wedding planning services in Vietnam no matter what size or type of wedding. It is offered to couples seeking high quality, attention to detailed planning and resources, wanting to create the wedding of their dreams, no matter what size, style or location.

PHOTO OI! Tel: 01269 502790 www.photooi.com Photo booth rental service that combines digital photography and instant photo printing using only top-of-the-line equipment and materials. Photo Oi! Sets up a booth at any event complete with backdrop and fun props that everyone can use.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to provide the ideal solution for any kind of event.

EXPAT SERVICES CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7237 www.chumshouse.com A service dedicated to finding people a place to live. With an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference, they can have you moved

into a new house within days. Help with motorbike rentals, visas and other information about living in Vietnam is also available. All services provided free of charge.

HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916 www.happy-house.vn Created by a team of Vietnamese and expat professionals, Happy House aims to make life in Saigon easier for everyone by offering practical solutions for a myriad of problems, including monthly bill payments, home repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering, computer repair and pet transportation.

HOUSINGINTERACTIVE Tel: 6255 6774 www.housinginteractive.com HousingInteractive offers an easy-touse, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website allows users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time. Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross–cultural and business awareness training.

Real value in a changing world

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE

JONES LANG LASALLE VIETNAM

CBRE Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news. Also does research and management services.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 3529/3530 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management, and support services.

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 4707 www.cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy. For further information email hcmc.info@ ap.cushwake.com.

EASY SAIGON www.easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

26th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3968 www.joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a financial and professional services firm specializing in real estate. We offer integrated services delivered worldwide by expert teams to clients who seek increased value by owning, occupying, or investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, we work and collaborate closely with our colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to our clients in Vietnam. Our offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 6777 www.knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896 as a valuations, surveying and auctions business, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

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NAMHOUSE CORPORATION

TRANSPO PROPERTY (VIETNAM)

LIBERTY INSURANCE

48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0989 00 77 00 www.namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions, decorations in HCM city especially in District 2. Supporting the professional services and after–sales.

Suite 501, Anh Kim Office Building, 43 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3914 7003 http://vietnam.transpo-property.com Transpo Property specialises in finding a suitable residence for their clients, as well as offering a full range of relocation services including school search, preview trips, orientation tours, and whatever else one may need when moving to Vietnam. Also provides a home search service to expats who are already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas.

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3812 5125 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1800 599 998.

PLATINUM1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com This American–based company provides a range of comprehensive real estate services. Known for its efficient and dependable service, it has global connections and expertise in the Vietnam real estate market.

SAVILLS VIET NAM LTD. Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is the leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and many other services.

SNAP www.snap.com.vn A simple, web–based real estate search service. Provides information on rental properties all around the city with full listings available online.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and centrally located facility, in your home, office, or over Skype.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE Tel: 3825 8416 www.interglobalvn.com Offers full hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits. Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. Available for anyone up to 74 years of age. No claims discount available.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3520 2000 www.sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and for lease in Vietnam and around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901 www.thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale. Service is orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL 1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3823 9355 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP

SPOT 18/34b Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 955 877 www.spotvietnam.com Native English speakers specialising in rentals and tenancy management. Spot offers quick and easy complimentary services from start to close.

PRUDENTIAL

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM Lau 8, River View Tower, Thai Van Lung,Q 1 Tel: 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IF CONSULTING 1A Me Linh Square, Q1 Tel: 3827 7362 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers to provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

www.ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering ‘real’ alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t–wm.com Personal financial planning for expatriates. Portable retirement savings plans for individuals of all nationalities. Tax minimisation strategies. Asset allocation and money management. Debt and cash–flow planning. Life, disability and health insurance. Family wealth protection.

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9930 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO EDUCATION & TRAINING 26 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: 3823 3597 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers high– quality and cost–effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

BELL VIETNAM 28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 www.bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM 51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3838 6788 www.ilavietnam.com A foreign owned education and training company that offers a broad range of educational programmes and services such as English language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training, and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L'ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492 www.latelier-anphu.com L’Atelier is a French language centre offering classes in all forms to children and adults, and to French-speaking and foreign residents. Each course is offered in small groups of a maximum of four people or in private class. Classes include spelling and grammar tuition after school, monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), and Vietnamese lessons, including extra-curricular activities during the holidays.

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: 3910 0168 www.vlsstudies.com A leading professional institution specialising in teaching Vietnamese to international students. Courses range from basic conversational Vietnamese for beginners to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as a range of special courses that take in Vietnamese literature, composition and a crash-course 6-hour survival session.

Courses range in intensity and classes take place on and off campus.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION (NOTARIZED) 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6678 0914 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

VUS 189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3925 9800 www.vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected non–governmental language institutions in Ho Chi Minh City. The English language training programmes are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York. Has a number of campuses throughout the city.

LAUNDRY COSMO LAUNDRY & DRY CLEANING Office: 80 Nguyen Khoa, Q4, Tel: 6261 6868 Valet shops: Circle K Store, 15B1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1; 36 Su Van Hanh, Q5; CRII, The Crescent, Q7; Shop & Go Store, RMIT University 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.cosmolaundry.com Cosmo Laundry & Dry Cleaning offers professional and reliable laundry & dry cleaning services for executive officers, expatriates and business associations in Ho Chi Minh City.

MICKEY LAUNDRY 203 Bui Vien, District 1 29 Hung Gia 4 St, Q7 F4 Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 2244 4466 Now in three convenient locations, Saigon’s leading laundry does wash and fold, dry-cleaning and ironing, along with a range of specialised services including spot removal, colour dyeing, tailoring, repairs, leather cleaning and business shirt service. Free pickup and delivery.

MR CLEAN 16 Tran Khac Chan, Q1 Tel: 2218 8111 www.mrcleanvietnam.com Mr Clean offers dry cleaning and laundry services for everything from wedding and ball gowns, suede and leathers to suits, shirts and jackets, and handbags and luggage. Repairs and alterations and shoe cleaning are also available. Using an oil-based solvent to ensure longer lasting clean clothes, Mr Clean offers free pickup and delivery and same day service.

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provide on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

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FRASERS LAW COMPANY

XAGE CONSULTANCY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com The first legal firm to receive a foreign law company license to operate in Vietnam, Frasers Law Company is an integrated team providing international legal advice in a Vietnamese context on all areas of business and commerce to leading global and local companies investing and operating in Vietnam. Ranked in the top tier of international law firms practising in this jurisdiction. Monthly newsletter available by email.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL (GLN) A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 8599 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services that combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law. INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established at the end of 2006, the firm assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 8860, www.mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994 with offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the firm provides clients with the full range of legal services in all areas of business including corporate, real estate, banking and finance, and all forms of inward investment.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRAINBOX VIETNAM 5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6920 7405 www.brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn Based in Singapore with campuses located throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes and corporate training to bachelor programmes in finance, business management and tourism and hospitality management, all the way through to the 12-month MBAs awarded by the Australian Institute of Business Administration.

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9919 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development. Well-known for their MBA programme which can be taken both part and full-time.

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MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3822 7727 www.cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

EPINION 11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4 Tel: 3826 8989 www.epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company that operates the largest online panel in Vietnam and offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MANDARIN MEDIA www.mandarinmedia.net A public relations, marketing and IT company with offices in Saigon, Hue and Portland (USA). Led by a team of seasoned journalists, Mandarin Media generates news and features about your company in English–language newspapers and magazines worldwide.

MASS GROUP 30 Dang Tat, Q1 www.massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand–building consulting.

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: 3838 5517 www.matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility, and media and issues management and training.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA)

3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6965 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 2220 2989 www.universalmanagementasia.com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

MEKONG RESEARCH

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

INDOCHINA RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 6314 www.mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997. Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices. Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis, and trade promotion.

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6291 0462 www.veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues/ crisis management.

SYNOVATE VIETNAM

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS

13th Floor, Room 1312, Khumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6288 8785 www.synovate.com A global market research company that drives competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies. With offices in 64 countries, Synovate combines global research capabilities with a personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific requirements.

NIELSEN CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: 3997 8088 http://vn.nielsen.com Nielsen Holdings N.V. (NYSE: NLSN) is a global information and measurement company with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties. Nielsen has a presence in approximately 100 countries, with headquarters in New York and Diemen in the Netherlands.

TNS VIETNAM 105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 Tel: 3821 5727 www.tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customised, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1 Tel: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

RECRUITMENT & HR HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is currently one of the top three HR consulting firms in Vietnam, specialising in matching senior level professionals to top opportunities in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Other services include: payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing. Works within a wide variety of industries.

NAVIGOS GROUP 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

OPUS VIETNAM RO 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups, with over 30 offices worldwide.

ROBERT WALTERS VIETNAM 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 7900 www.robertwalters.com.vn Robert Walters Vietnam offers a highly professional and specialised recruitments service. With 47 offices in 23 countries, Robert Walters holds an established track record with Asia's leading institutions, from multinational corporations to smaller enterprises. The Vietnam office specialises in permanent jobs across these disciplines: Sales & Marketing, Technical Healthcare, Accountancy & Finance, Banking & Financial Services, Human Resources, IT, Supply Chain, Engineering and Oil & Gas Technical.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM (formally Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9488 www.towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 3826 7655 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES – VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 3941 5325 www.logicalmoves.net Specialists in international moves for household goods and used personal effects through our global partner network. Also local, domestic and office moves. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Email Chris Honor at chris@logicalmoves.net for further information.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com Resident Vietnam is the first dedicated relocation company with 11 years of experience in Vietnam and provides full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED 7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4 Tel: 3826 8850 www.seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam. SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3 Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments for long-term lease, each unit comes fully furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay and range from VND11,825,000 to VND16,125,000 per month. This is inclusive of two gas cylinders, five big bottles of water per month, daily usage of water and parking, thrice-weekly apartment servicing, ADSL Internet, and access to the fitness centre.

CITYVIEW 12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1111 www.cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown with 69 fully–furnished apartments. Facilities include a gym, a pool room, a kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 8888 www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon is the InterContinental Asiana

Saigon Residences with 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area and is part of the brand-new Kumho Link Asiana Plaza, the city’s finest integrated food and beverage complex featuring commercial, residential and luxury shopping arcade.

JASMINE COURT 307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh www.jasminecourt.com.vn Located five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with only 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes. Amenities in each apartment include a 32” LCD TV, DVD player and audio system, in-room safe and wireless Internet with broadband connectivity, and a four-fixture en suite with shower.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3822 6111 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers clients a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steamroom, as well as two on-site restaurants — Shang Palace and Terrazzo Café.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside–apartments.com Four–hectares of nature on the bank of the Saigon River where all can enjoy the lifestyle of a resort with all the luxury amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located within minutes of the downtown area by high speed boat shuttle service.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one– to–three bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes. Have a range of residential facilities including a gym, squash court, business centre and Minimart.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3823 2288 www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property in Ho Chi Minh City and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9197 www.somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court and Somerset Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a toprated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Online jobsearch website with probably the best selection of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS 2nd Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3454 www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL (VIETNAM) LTD.

8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3911 0950 www.manpower.com.vn Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4. Tel: 3826 7799 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers are the largest regional move management specialists with partners all over the world, with services including door to door moving, housing and school finding, local and office moves, and pet relocations.

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT

CROWN RELOCATIONS

4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3820 3115 www.mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services

48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 4237 www.crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include

MANPOWER VIETNAM

expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

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destination

DESTINATION LISTINGS DALAT 082 HANOI 082 AROUND HANOI 082 HCMC INTERNATIONAL 083 HCMC DELUXE 085 HCMC MID-RANGE 085 HCMC BUDGET 086 HOI AN & DA NANG 086 HUE & QUANG BINH 087 NHA TRANG 088

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

PHAN THIET & MUI NE 088 PHU QUOC 089 SAPA 089 VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO 090 TRAVEL SERVICES 091 COLUMNS DESTINATION ZERO 084 TRAVEL PROMOS 090

has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa and reasonable prices to match. CREDIT

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com This luxurious and tranquil sanctuary of relaxation is nestled on the gentle and picturesque slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Offering 65 rooms from 17 original French colonial villas, rates start at just over VND 2 million++ and rise to over VND6 million++ per night. Top-notch services and facilities include a personal butler on call from 7am to 10pm, in-villa dining and the La Cochinchine Spa with a range of holistic and therapeutic treatments.

BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA CREDIT

$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and every modern amenity, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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HANOI CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

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$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 3827 999 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in the centre of town, this no-frills budget hotel offers 12 basic but nicely decorated and clean guestrooms, all with free Wi-Fi. Rooms start at VND300,000. A coffee shop can be found on the ground floor and the hotel offers airport pickup, bicycle rental, tour information, a laundry service and business centre.

DALAT PALACE

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$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 382 5444 www.dalatpalace.vn Overlooking central Dalat, the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain further afield, the city’s top and most classic hotel still maintains its original 1920s style and charm. Has 38 rooms and five suites, a gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie serving international and local cuisine, a piano bar, Larry’s Bar in the basement and five meeting rooms.

DREAMS HOTEL 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private hotel has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from VND500,000 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

LA SAPINETTE DALAT

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$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat Tel: 3740 7512 www.lasapinette.com Situated in the centre of Dalat’s famous Liang Biang Plateau, La Sapinette is a first class hotel with traditional, French art nouveau-styled décor. Also has a modern commercial centre, complete with stateof-the art facilities, 91 rooms including one and two-bedroom apartments.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat Tel: 063 382 2663 www.thesinhtourist.vn You get door–to–door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it

and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi–Fi connections available.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

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$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Hanoi Tel: 04 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property, this 24-storey, mixed use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com Just on the side of beautiful St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a good, comfortable mid–range hotel. Each of the 10 rooms is fitted with cable television, Wi–Fi and a mini bar. The staff is quite helpful and can arrange tours and tickets to many destinations surrounding Hanoi. With room fees starting at $40 a night, and topping out at $50, the small boutique– style hotel offers quite a deal.

FRASER SUITES

MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

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DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

is a fairly basic place to rest those weary feet, but it’s right in the middle of town.

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 8877 Fax: 04 3719 8811 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com Strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is ideal for expatriates who desire a home close to work, and yet offers repose from the bustle of the city. The gold–standard serviced residence is in the Westlake district, an enclave preferred by foreign executives and their families and close to a good selection of quality restaurants, gourmet food shops and decent bars.

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$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com Located only 50 meters away from Hang Cot, the newly built Marigold Hotel Hanoi elegantly combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with a modernised classic facade. The Mimosa Wine Bar & Pub, an Irish bar complete with nightly live Irish music, is located on the top floor, providing excellent views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Maison d’Hanoi provides an elegant respite from the traffic and noise of the city. They have 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have Wi–Fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.4 million for a guest room to VND4.4 million for a suite.

contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK $ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and home to the well-known national primate centre, the accommodation here is in modern rooms, stilt houses or detached bungalows. Includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre and on the road linking the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude–cruises.com This comfortable yet accurate reproduction of a 19th–century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in small but impeccably maintained cabins. They also offer transfers from Hanoi itself. A great, classic experience.

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GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969 www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) daily, replenished minibar and snack basket service in every room. Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails. CREDIT

HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL $ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com The cheapest European–style place in town, with bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers, also has a second hostel at 9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem (Tel: 04 3935 1890) close to all the latenight Old Quarter bars and eating spots. CREDIT

SOFITEL METROPOLE

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$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambience of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL CREDIT

HANOI HILTON

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this five–star is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that once housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top–end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. Presently undergoing extensive renovation.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

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$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 7566 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good no–frills option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact with small but clean bathrooms

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free Internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness centre with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relaxation lounge and VIP massage room.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY $$$ 52 Hang Trong, Hanoi Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Q3 Tel: 3933 0077 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with

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LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam–aventure.com This eco–village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in 10 houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

LA VIE VU LINH $ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 (Freewheelin’ Tours) info@freewheelin-tours.com www.lavievulinh.com Located 170km northwest of Hanoi and on the banks of Thac Ba Lake, this bamboo-constructed eco lodge close to Yen Bai is situated in one of the most tranquil and visually stimulating areas in Vietnam. Set in a Dao Quan Trang ethnic minority village, accommodation is either in the main stilt-house area or in the rammed earth rooms and starts at VND250,000 per night. Offers a whole host of activities including lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours and walking trips into the surrounding mountains.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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HCMC INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth–floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

DUXTON HOTEL

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$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Right in the middle of town, the Duxton deserves its luxury appellation with all the features the tired business executive needs including pool, gym, spa, bar and fine dining. The rooms and suites are luxurious. Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets.

EQUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Only a ten-minute drive from downtown Saigon, this big and businesslike property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also has some of the biggest banquet facilities in the city and an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

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$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1 Tel: 3925 7777 www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn A five-star luxury hotel with 334 rooms and suites, and 53 serviced apartments. Offers excellent services and facilities for both business and leisure travellers, including 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity grand ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool and gym, Japanese and Chinese restaurants, an all day dining restaurant, and 24-hours room service. Also provides city shuttles, airport transfers, city tours, currency exchange, limousine service, ticketing and mail services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON CREDIT

$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com Located in a lush valley home to indigenous Vietnamese minority groups, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is a luxurious alternative to the stilt house homestay accommodation offered close by. Has all the usual western amenities in a beautiful setting and every room has a view of either the mountain, lake, pool or valley.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including the pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

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$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 03 3384 8108 www.novotelhalong.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214

$$$$ Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Intercontinental Asiana Saigon is an exciting destination in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Personalised services await guests in each of the 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a stylish Presidential Suite. The hotel offers signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LEGEND HOTEL

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$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com You’ll notice the difference when you first enter the lobby here – the architect was in serious atrium mode when he drew up the design. There’s no shortage of space in the rooms, either, and a fine selection

of dining, from buffets (the atrium again), to Chinese, Japanese and western.

MOEVENPICK HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.movenpick-hotels.com Located a stone’s throw away from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, this tastefully decorated Swiss-run hotel possesses 278 well appointed rooms and suites, five restaurants and bars, meeting and banquet facilities. The shopping arcade, and popular e-gaming centre make this a preferred option for both business and leisure travellers.

AIRLINES

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NEW WORLD HOTEL

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Bi Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE $$$$ 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissance–saigon.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus Kabin, one of the best– regarded Chinese restaurants in the city. CREDIT

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$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3829 2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history and still possessing a certain fading charm, the Rex is now mainly populated by tour groups, while for the independent traveller it has been comprehensively overtaken in value terms. But its open–air fifth–floor bar is still one of the must–do experiences of the city, and there is now a great gym and spa area on the sixth floor as well. A recent renovation and the addition of the new wing has seen the entry of the top-end designer brands to the shopping arcade of this now five-star property.

SHERATON

AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous–looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation as has the ground floor Italian-themed Opera, and Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

REX HOTEL

AIR ASIA www.airasia.com

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first–class facilities topped by an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com EVA AIRWAYS 4th Floor, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 4488 www.evaair.com JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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destination SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is the ultimate in French lifestyle, comfort and convenience. This 20–story building in downtown Saigon caters to upscale business and leisure travellers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon. CREDIT

WINDSOR PLAZA

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$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Definitely the hotel with the most – its own shopping hub (including a bank), the city’s second biggest discotheque, several restaurants, a sauna, health club and business facilities, and superb panoramic views over the city when you take time off from all the other activities and make it back to your room.

HCMC DELUXE CONTINENTAL

DayTripping from Hanoi No time for a holiday, but want to get out of the smog? Alex Field jumped on his trusty Honda Wave to see what adventures he could find in a day — and still be home for dinner. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos Travel Time 2. 5 hours

Distance from Hanoi 65km

Perfume Pagoda

in an enormous cave at the top of the mountain.

Travel Time 2. 5 hours

Distance from Hanoi 65km

The Day Trip

Entrance Technically VND55,000 per person for the boat, VND50,000 for entry to the mountain path. Come as a group, though, or you will most likely be forced to hire your own private boat. The cable car costs VND70,000.

The Place Set in the Huong Tich Mountains, Perfume Pagoda (Chua Huong) is a very Vietnamese destination. Pilgrims come from across the country to worship here all year round — especially in the four months after Tet. It’s one of the most important religious sites in Vietnam. An epic complex of shrines and temples built into limestone rock, visitors get in a rowing boat at Ben Duc, and float down Yen Stream to the base of Huong Son Mountain. From there you can walk or take a cable car up to the Inner Temple,

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The journey out of Hanoi is pretty gruelling, but fear not, it gets a lot prettier and calmer after Highway 13. Make sure you leave early for this trip, though — it's not a nice return drive in the dark. I left at 7.30am and arrived at 10.30a, getting a little lost on the way and taking it easy on those roads. This gave me plenty of time for the 45-minute boat ride and a walk up Huong Son Mountain, with lots of sightseeing on the way. There is so much to take in here; from the array of stuffed animals and porcupines in cages (animal rights activists stay at home) to stall after stall of tat as you walk up the mountain — plastic toys, golden statues and fake flowers galore. If you don’t like litter, don’t look down. There are thousands of cans and packets tumbling down the mountain, all the way to the top. The trek can take up to two hours with stops at the cave pagodas. During peak season there are so many stalls that it's a struggle to see the view most of the time

like classic, traditional, vintage and colonial. Overlooking the Saigon River, and recently renovated to international standard, it retains a unique atmosphere which makes it especially memorable for newcomers to the city. The rest of us just take advantage of its cheap buffet lunches.

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 648/65 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3, Tel: 3846 0263 hotel@mamaison.vn Just a short alley from the Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ma Maison Boutique Hotel caters to demanding clients of both long–term expats and French art aficionados. The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in–house guests on a French farmhouse wood table surrounded by modern leather and ladder–back chairs. Ma Maison provides full services– business centre, internet, housekeeping, laundry, room service and limousine. CREDIT

NORFOLK HOTEL

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$$$ 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental–saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the most classic of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 info@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Located minutes away from famous landmarks, shops, restaurants and international companies, Norfolk Hotel is a good choice for buisness and leisure travellers. Recently renovated the sleek new design is reflected in the lobby space and in their ground floor bar and steakhouse, Corso.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

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$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn This hotel makes you think of words

contemporary rooms, an international buffet restaurant – The Square, a lobby lounge, a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including swimming pool, fitness, sauna and spa. With five meeting rooms and over 400m2 of space that can accommodate up to 350 persons, Novotel Saigon Centre provides expert support teams and facilities that will ensure successful business meetings and events.

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3822 4479 www.novotel.com Novotel Saigon Centre features 247 CREDIT

RAMANA HOTEL

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club. The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2km from the city centre and 3km from the airport.

SABENA HOTEL

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$$$ R3–60 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 1000 www.sabena.vn Located on a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the brand–new rooms at Sabena are equipped with all the latest in–room technology perfect for making your room a combined office and home away from home. A good choice for anyone seeking accommodation away from downtown Saigon.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

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$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3999 8888 www.starcitysaigon.vn A brand new hotel located near Tan

Son Nhat International Airport with 185 guest rooms each with city views and comfortably designed outdoor swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, restaurant, bars and meeting rooms that cater to 400 people.

HCMC MID-RANGE KIM DO ROYAL CITY HOTEL

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$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5914 www.kimdohotel.com You’ll never have trouble finding your way back here at night – perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the exterior is brightly lit and the interior follows suit. A quality venue where no amenities are lacking – we’re talking executive Jacuzzis here. Use internet bookings to slash the cost of your room.

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid– range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

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$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining and spacious gardens on the bank of the Saigon River. Located in Thao Dien Village, also has a number of restaurants on hand including an Italian, Thai and Japanese.

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

— but it's all worth it when you get to the Huong Tich Pagoda at the top. The cave is enormous, with beautiful shrines and worshippers all around — after the chaotic climb and garish souvenirs, it’s good to remember what it’s all about. Everyone also seems happy to share their traditions here. Twice I was taught how to pray, and was physically dragged to a rock to have holy water dripped on my hand. Do dress respectfully, though. Women should cover their shoulders.

Getting There The fastest way is to drive down Le Duan to join the Highway 1. This may be quick, but it’s not much fun and can be a very dangerous road. Watch a lorry overtake a lorry on a corner, and you might wish you took another route. A less death-defying (and much prettier) option is to take Highway 13 out of Hanoi for 15 km, then turn left onto the highway 21B when you reach a roundabout. From here, follow the road down, veering right after 40 km onto Highway 74. From here it’s 4km straight to Ben Duc.

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTURES Soc Son Tel: 0164 3876 594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 06 1366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

JUNGLE BEACH Nha Trang Tel: 05 8362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

LA VIE VU LINH

destination HCMC BUDGET CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

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$ 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3 Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn Though possessing only five rooms, Cam Ly’s hotel section comes very reasonably priced. A double room costs under VND400,000 per night while a large double room and a twin room are both priced at under VND700,000. With 24-hour security, all rooms come with cable television and ADSL Internet access. For cleanliness, comfort and safety, Cam Ly is one of the best no-frills options in the city. See our Business listings for an overview of Cam Ly’s studio apartments.

BIKE RENTALS

Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

MANGO BAY Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 07 7398 1693 www.mangobayphuquoc.com

MEKONG LODGE

Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com

PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT Ha Giang Tel: 0219 38 33 3565 www.panhou-village.com

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 05 8372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1 Tel: 8373 699 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer. CREDIT

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA $ 171A Co Bac, Q1, Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer. CREDIT

HONG HOA $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 1915 It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked–away little venue is on a par with anything else in the area – attractive, comfortable, friendly and more. Plus there is free Internet access. CREDIT

An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

MIA NHA TRANG

DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi–Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street–level mayhem of the backpacker area. CREDIT

CHI’S CAFÉ 40/27 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/month. Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter. NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pick-up. SAIGON MOTORBIKE 203 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals. Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: 3827 4648 Take advantage of the free WiFi offered in every room at this venue where you’ll be impressed with the low prices, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few minutes from the street–level mayhem of the Backpackers’ area. CREDIT

HOI AN & DA NANG CUA DAI

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family–run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air–conditioned rooms and amiable staff.

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: 0511 3961 800 www.danangbeachresort.com.vn This resort, 20 minutes away from the airport in Danang, comprises six areas of villas with beachfront, golf and mountain views, a 33–floor twin tower, three five– star hotels, a convention and commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village. CREDIT

FURAMA RESORT & SPA $$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar. CREDIT

HUY HOANG 1 $ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 0511 398 1234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com Located 15 minutes by car from Da Nang International Airport, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is situated on a stretch of beach with a view of the ocean and the Marble Mountains. Has 200 guestrooms featuring modern designs with oversized balconies and floor to ceiling windows. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private Ocean Villas, each with a private pool. INTERCONTINENTAL DANANG SUN PENINSULA RESORT $$$$ Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang Tel: 0511 393 8888 info@icdanang.com www.intercontinental.com/danang With its own private bay on the Son Tra Peninsula, the Bill Bensley-designed InterContinental Danang is nestled within one of the region’s most exquisite locations. All 197 of the resort’s rooms, suites and beachfront villas are designed to take full advantage of their location and panoramic South China Sea views. Large terraces and shuttered windows elevate private living spaces that draw in the surrounding jungle and crystal bay, and add depth to the already large rooms that start from 70sqm.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

Da Nang city, the Mercure Danang is only 10 minutes from the International Airport. Consisting of 272 modern and stylish rooms reflecting local Vietnamese culture, all rooms feature ocean or mountain views. The hotel offers all day dining at their brasserie as well as a Chinese restaurant and lobby bar and lounge. Conference facilities are available as is a private spa, treatment rooms, tennis court and fitness centre. The hotel offers complimentary shuttle to the city centre and Danang Beach.

THE NAM HAI

HUE & QUANG BINH HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

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$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue Tel: 054 382 6567 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa, this is the cheapest European–style place in town. Has bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers.

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000 www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, The Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT

Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels.asia Pull up some (private) beach and relax at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial–hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high–rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la–residence–hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark–stained wood furnishings, this is traditional art deco Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable

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$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, if you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional–looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is an endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG $$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 511 3958 888 www.lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is family-friendly resort. The design of the guest rooms and amenities, quality of the food, ambience of the bar and restaurant and the dedication of service of the resort’s staff has all been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion. CREDIT

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life–resorts.com Recently refurbished, this award–winning leafy and well-appointed resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

MERCURE DANANG

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$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang. Tel: 0511 379 7777 www.mercure-danang.com Located on Green Island in the heart of

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destination and acceptable level of comfort for the sub–VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

terrace and sea view, offering a pool, spa and restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. One of the best run hotels in town.

RUSTIC CHAY LAP

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

$ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh www.chaylap.org Situated on a peanut and maize farm on the doorstep of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge and farm offers homestay-style accommodation in the middle of a rural, ethnic minority Vietnamese environment. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking, caving and chilling out in the shadow of some of the most spectacular limestone karst scenery that this country has to offer. Booking needs to be made through tour operators - email chaylap@gmail.com for details or check out the website.

SUN SPA RESORT

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason–anamandara– nhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang) Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick–up from Nha Trang and the down–to–earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary of rest and relaxation is set on its own private beach. Based on ecofriendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs instead of tiles or differing roof coverings, enhancing the environmental appeal. The 50-seaview rooms are split between luxurious villas and condominiums that blend contemporary living with slight Indochina influences. CREDIT

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 625 6900 rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com This attractive four-star hotel is centrally located with 154 guestrooms, each with CREDIT

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six–Senses–Hideaway– Ninh–Van–Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top–drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at around VND15 million for a beach pool villa.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu Tel: 058 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front hotel with 284 sea view rooms and suites, complimented by six restaurants and bars. The hotel also has a Sheraton Club Lounge with spectacular views, Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool area, a fitness centre, a kid’s club, a business centre and a cooking school. For great view of the city, head up on high to the rooftop bar.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL & SPA $$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn With various awards, including being listed in the World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009 by Expedia, and in view of the current facilities, location and its anticipated strong branding and service from the heart, Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa is ideal for the medium to higher end individual leisure and corporate travellers. All rooms have a view of the sea. CREDIT

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. On-site seafood restaurant and bar.

WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT & SPA

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$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 058 3670 670 www.whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean and a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants including one where you can pick fresh seafood and then have it cooked, a swimming pool and a spa. Service is both professional and friendly.

also offers outdoor activities including kitesurfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322. www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its new luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar.

COCO BEACH

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$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7111 www.cocobeach.net The place that put Phan Thiet on the map is still one of the best options for a stay, with charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant. Coco Beach is continues to be run by the European management team that began it all in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 384 7440/2 www.miamuine.com Set on one acre of manicured lawns and lush gardens, this luxurious haven of rest and tranquillity offers four different accommodation types, all featuring en suite bathrooms, cable TV, IDD telephone, safe box and air conditioning. Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows looking out to the South China Sea. The resort’s Xuan Day spa offers a selection of therapeutic body treatments while the beachfront Sandals restaurant serves a blend of dishes from the Mediterranean and Pacific Rim.

DU PARC PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES & GOLF RESORT $$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3822 393 www.phanthietresorts.com This resort offers access to a first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo. Great food and service is offered in this 123–room escape destination featuring private balconies with ocean or golf view. CREDIT

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com One of the few all–villa luxury boutique resorts in Vietnam, Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four–hour

drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country. It’s definitely one of the most exclusive.

SHADES APARTMENTS $$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 374 3237 www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and good dining options. CREDIT

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 381 3000 www.victoriahotels.asia Part of the Victoria chain which has properties in Vietnam and Cambodia, this high–end resort with thatched–roof bungalows and family villas is set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a top–end seafood restaurant, and a spa, beauty salon and Jacuzzi right on the private beach. An excellent place to stay located just before you reach the main stretch of resorts in Mui Ne.

VILLA ARIA MUI NE

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$$$ 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660 www.villaariamuine.com The newest boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Villa Aria Mui Ne provides warm service with only 22 spacious guestrooms and one suite. Using only natural amenities in every room for a luxury experience, the resort includes a nice pool overlooking the beachfront, an alfresco dining lounge serving authentic Phan Thiet cuisine and more.

stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

rainy season.

BO RESORT $$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 6142 www.boresort.com booking@boresort.com Conceived and operated by a French– Vietnamese couple, BO Resort lies on the west of Phu Quoc and is quiet, low–key and secluded. An eco–lodge concept, there are no televisions or air–con and future plans include hot water by solar panels. 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay. Bathrooms are tropical, open–air style. The beachside restaurant is well–known and includes traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on fresh seafood and products, prepared with an unmistakable classic ‘French touch.’

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla–resort.com Open since November 2008, this Italian-run, 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first–class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant. One of the few top-end properties on Phu Quoc. CREDIT

LA VERANDA $$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773982988 contact@laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery branded La Veranda has beautifully– designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a CREDIT

MANGO BAY

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up tasty, home-cooked Vietnamese food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow–style resort which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid– back and simple. And cheap.

SAPA CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE $$ Cat Cat Road Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 0998 www.beachclubvietnam.com A small and popular guesthouse located 15 minutes south of the airport offering simple yet well-appointed accommodation with rooms at VND630,000 and bungalows at VND840,000 per night. Features a beachside restaurant and includes free WIFI. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during

Viet Nam Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3743 777. www.allezboo.com This resort offers exotic and luxurious accommodation including two Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas and 55 spacious suites and deluxe rooms. Fresh seafood, Vietnamese specialities, Thai food and international cuisine are served in their many dining areas. The resort

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destination

travel Promos RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE Enjoy the meeting package at Renaissance with complimentary lunch, one free room for every ten rooms booked, late check out, one hour welcome cocktail for all participants, 20 percent discount on food, drinks and spa, and a complimentary buffet voucher for two, for group organisers. Valid till Sep. 30 and priced at VND3,129,000++/ person. www.renaissancehotels.com THE CARAVELLE HOTEL Summer saver — 50 percent off on published room rates — valid to Sep. 30. Meeting specials valid till Sep. 30. Wedding

special: Free 2 tables of 10. www.caravellehotel.com NOVOTEL NHA TRANG Pay only two nights and stay for three until Oct. 31. The offer includes complimentary use of the gym, pool and sun loungers on the private beach. Celebrate the full moon festival at The Square Restaurant with a buffet dinner on Sep. 29. Priced at VND420,000++/adult, half price for children under 12 and free for children under 6. Children also get a free soft drink and a surprise gift. Vous spa is offering a 35 percent discount on a traditional Vietnamese massage

TOPAS ECOLODGE

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to aid muscle relaxation, improve blood circulation and rejuvenate the body. Only VND490,000 per person for one hour, and valid until Sep. 30. www.novotel-nhatrang.com SUNRISE NHA TRANG BEACH HOTEL & SPA Enjoy a romantic escape with a two-night stay in a superior room with balcony overlooking the bay. Includes daily buffet breakfast, one dinner for two, 10 percent discount on all food and beverages and a 60-minute couples body treatment at the spa. Valid till Nov. 30 and priced at VND6,880,000++. www.sunrisenhatrang.com. vn

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas–eco–lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco–cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

VICTORIA SAPA

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from VND2.8 million per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO BINH AN VILLAGE

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$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau Tel: 064 335 1553 www.binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this glamorous, Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has a calming and elegant boutique atmosphere. Has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining and a bar strategically located on the cliff to watch the sunset.

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3830 939 www.condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island on the edge of the main town, this beachfront resort is a good option thanks to its reasonable pricing and coconutshaded sand. Has the standard range of mod cons.

GRAND HOTEL

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$$$ 2 Nguyen Du, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 6888 www.grand.oscvn.com This four-star iconic property stands proudly along the tree–lined seafront and has added modern amenities to its spacious rooms, along with a large restaurant, first–floor bar, fitness centre and business facilities.

refined atmosphere of this leafy villa complex provides guests with a home away from home. Perfect for renting with groups of friends or as an extended family, the spacious villas each come with their own pool and many have direct access to the beach. Facilities include tennis courts, water sports, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL

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$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 2135 www.rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge. Rooms start at VND900,000.

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel : 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao/ The first five-star resort on the Con Dao archipelago, this unique property pays homage to the remoteness of its natural environment by being deliberately sandwiched between the sea, beach, mangrove and mountains behind. 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay here, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage. CREDIT

AZA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7 Tel: 5410 5523 www.azaadventuretours.com AZA Adventure Tours and Travel specialises in adventure and education tourism, providing consulting and custom travel arrangements and packages to the Philippines and other countries in Asia. AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level.

BUDGET RENT–A–CAR www.budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best–known car rental companies. With a kiosk at the airport and drivers trained in a range of driving, cultural and language skills, mileage–free car hire starts at VND1.2 million.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9170 travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips, customises leisure and corporate travel plans around the world and in Vietnam while offering a selected range of small group tours.

COME & GO VIETNAM

7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia Pacific. Join now and save.

195/14, D1, Q Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 3281 hello@comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, responsive British–run tour operator offering high–quality, innovative tailor made tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. Come & Go pride themselves on originality so if you’re tired of the usual Vietnam products, they’re definitely worth a try. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

ASIANATRAVEL MATE CO. LTD

DALAT EASY RIDER

113C Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 6678 92-94-96 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 0615 www.asianatravelmate.com An active supporter of the Loreto Program, AsianaTravel Mate Co. Ltd. is a tourist information company that offers a wide range of customised itineraries, tour packages, and hotel & cruise reservations throughout Indochina, as well as daily departure tours in Saigon, Hue, Hanoi, known as Deluxe Group Tours. The company also operates three deluxe cruises in Ha Long Bay.

70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat vndalateasyrider@yahoo.com www.dalat–easyrider.com.vn Bespoke motorbike tours from the original Easy Rider group based in Dalat. With over 70 guides, all speaking English, tourists can either ride on the back of a bike with their guide or can hire their own bikes. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands and you can even venture as far as Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Email for further information. Note: insurance is not included. Price is generally VND800,000 to VND1 million per day depending on how far you travel.

TRAVEL SERVICES ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS

EXOTISSIMO 64 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3827 2911 dongdu@exotissimo.com SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2761 - Ext 113 pmh@exotissimo.com 41 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3 5194 111 - Ext 17 I anphu@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com Everything you could wish for under one roof from this professional agency. An upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, which aims to bring you up close to the cultures of the area through personalised tours across the region, which may include insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. Excellent service. Travel desks at Sofitel Plaza Saigon and New World Hotel open from 7.30am to 9pm every day.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 7744 info@flightravelco.com www.flightravelco.com Flight travel is an associated partner of Hogg Robinson Group (HRG) in Vietnam providing a range of travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLUB PHU QUOC 60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Tel: 0939 402 872 www.flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff that speak English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and Vietnamese. Established in 2009, Flipper Diving Club offers international scuba diving insurance for all customers and each instructor carries additional scuba diving insurance. Contact them now to learn more about diving in Phu Quoc.

FLY VIETNAM www.flyvietnam.com booking@flyvietnam.com An online air ticket reservation and travel agent in Vietnam providing information, pricing, availability, and booking facilities for domestic and international air travel, railway reservation, hotel bookings, holiday packages, buses, and car rentals. Also organises travel insurance, coach tours and visas.

KIM TRAVEL 270 De Tham, Q1 One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations

include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering day tours, short breaks and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne Tel: 0908 400 108 www.mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes with national and international guidelines for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation. Group rates and corporate event packages are also available.

ONE WORLD 28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 A local inbound tour operator specialising in boutique tours around Vietnam. We provide economy, luxury, packages and Taylor–made tours, including flexibility to allow our customers to explore at their pace and will.

TERRAVERDE 91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3984 4754 info@terraverdetravel.com If cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Halong Bay is your kind of thing, then this company’s range of customised cultural and soft adventure tours might suit. It caters to travellers interested in making a positive impact on the lives of the people whose regions they visit.

TU TRANG TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 071 3752 436 www.tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Tu Trang Travel offers services such as trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh, and between Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc. Email: sales@tutrangtravel. com.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE www.vietnamvespaadventure.com From the people behind Zoom Café, Vietnam Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English speaking tour leaders lead the way, contact shawn@vietnamvespaadventure. com for more details.

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT & SPA $$$$ Tel: 064 378 1525 info@hotramresort.com www.hotramresort.com Located along the coastal road in Ba Ria– Vung Tau Province, this attractive, Hoi Anstyled property is the ideal getaway from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City. The resort is highlighted by a selection of 63 uniquely designed Indochine bungalows and villas that promise a local experience with international–standard accommodation. Also has an excellent spa facility and two swimming pools. CREDIT

HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Tel: 064 3781 631 www.sanctuary.com.vn Just 45 minutes north of Vung Tau, the classical but contemporary elegance and CREDIT

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OUT & ABOUT

LISTINGS

BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 092 CAFES 094 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 096 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 097 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 097 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 098 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 104 RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 105

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 2 LAM SON TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am. Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

ALLEZ BOO

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 195 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6291 5424 info@allezboo.com 24 hours Summery, Ibiza-style beats rock through this recently refurbished Backpackers’ Area icon, mixing in with the bamboostyle décor, deep red walls and ethnic minority upholstery and place settings. Serving a mixture of Thai and western cuisine (from VND80,000 to VND140,000 a dish), the late-night party atmosphere is bolstered by the first-floor DJ pumping out tunes into the early hours.

AMBER ROOM

LOUNGE BAR First Floor, 59 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 3686 www.theamberoom.com 3pm to midnight A small but atmospheric, living-room style

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings RESTAURANTS SOUTHEAST ASIAN 106 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 107

BOSTON SPORTS BAR COLUMNS FOODIE CORNER 100 MAP DISTRICT 102 FOOD PROMOS 108

London meets New York lounge opposite the Sheraton Hotel. Has chilled out tunes during the late afternoon and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for the latest cocktails, a good coffee and a glass of wine. Also has an extensive champagne list with probably the largest offering of champagnes by the glass available in town. Holds regular events.

AMERICA DISCOTHEQUE TECHNO / HIP HOP Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 9pm to late Once the largest nightclub in Vietnam, this 2000-capacity venue is located in the An Dong Plaza complex in District 5. Pumping out 30,000 watts of sound, this club also possesses one of the loudest nightclub sound systems in the city. A popular nightspot for the local and Viet Kieu crowd, with resident and guest DJs playing thumping dance and techno tunes and a separate room for those who prefer hip hop and R&B. Expect to pay the usual nightclub prices for drinks, but look out for the regular specials on bottles of spirits.

APOCALYPSE NOW MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music. Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

BLUE GECKO

AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 3483 www.bluegeckosaigon.com 4.30pm to midnight Although run by a Vietnamese couple, this boozy, outback-themed sports pub just off the main drag is quintessentially Australian. The down-to-earth atmosphere is added to by a great pool table, darts and all the live sports, with a particular focus (not surprisingly) on Aussie Rules and Rugby. Also shows the Premier League. One of the longest running watering holes in town.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ LIVE MUSIC DJ

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out & about this bar and café has the feel of an underground-style watering hole, the type you may find in London or New York. Run by a well-known, locally based DJ, the decks and mixing board take centre stage here, with a range of turntablists taking to the stand at night. Also a good place to hang out during the day — the Mediterranean-influenced food menu includes crostini, salads, pastas and a good selection of breakfast fare. Does takeaway Lavazza coffee.

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com 9.30am to 1am Swathed in greys, cream and dull brown,

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 28/4 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 6656 6338 bostonpizzavn@gmail.com 24 hours This inviting, all-hours-god-sends multistorey restobar with its rectangular, bare-brick bar area is the only place in the Backpackers’ District showing all the live sport. And here we certainly mean the word ALL. TV screens are everywhere. Also in the mix is the coldest aircon in town, reasonable (although slightly pricey) pub food and friendly female staff.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com 7am to 1am Composed of The Conservatory, a daylight-drenched loft area, The Salon, a plush living room with baroque and exotic accents, The Cigar Room and The Library, with its sleek champagne tasting counter, the Boudoir Lounge is a haven for executives and lounge adepts alike. Live International DJs perform Fridays and Saturdays. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and evening bouchées.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0907 502951 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet. It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

CRAZY BUFFALO

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 212 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9946 www.crazybuffalosaigon.com 24 hours This hard-to-miss Backpackers’ Area restobar, terrace and nightclub declares itself loud and bold with its massive, snorting buffalo signage, a symbol that has undoubtedly appeared in thousands of photos of Saigon. A daytime happy hour, pizza, pasta, Asian cuisine and international mains make up the mix, with the beats pumping on the first floor until late.

FUSE TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com 7pm to late One of the smaller nightclubs to grace Saigon, the neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese set. Blaring techno and dance music envelopes the dance floor as large fruit platters and bottles of whiskey and cognac are consumed. A lack of space means this place gets packed easily, especially on the weekends, so look to arrive relatively early to grab a table. Even better, book in advance.

GO2 INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9575 24 hours A corner location, retro, slightly grungy décor, banging indie and popular rock tunes downstairs, never ending drunkenness and late-night partying make Go2 one of the watering hole destinations in the Backpackers’ Area. Popular with tourists and expats searching for latenight drinking and dancing options, the food menu includes Thai, Vietnamese and western cuisine with mains costing between VND75,000 and VND110,000. DJs bang out the beats upstairs until late.

GOSSIP HARD TECHNO 79 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3824 2525 8.30pm to 2.30am This Singaporean-run super club, located in the Dai Nam hotel, is just as popular with the locals as it is with the foreigners. A friendly, communal atmosphere and attentive service helps Gossip to stand out from its contemporaries. As expected, tinnitus-inducing levels of techno and house music blare throughout the twotiered club with a large, raised dancefloor that fills out instantly. ‘Dress to impress’ is the nature of the clientele here so don’t turn up in shorts and flip-flops. The entrance fee is VND120,000.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS 28Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn 8am to midnight Set in the same building as the Czech Consulate and decorated in wood panelling and brass finishing, this enormous Czech-styled bierkeller popular with stout burghers from both the local and expatriate communities was the first microbrewery in town (1995) and remains one of the best. The excellent home–brewed Hoavener beer, which comes in dark, red or blonde, is served out of huge steins and is complemented by a food menu that mixes Vietnamese fare with Central European staples such as schnitzels, wurst and much more.

ICE BLUE

EXPAT BAR / DART 54 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 2664 3pm to 1am Despite its slightly run down veneer and smoky but lively atmosphere, Ice Blue remains a popular haunt for many of the city’s older expats as well as a not–so– regular crowd of tourists. Known for its amicable service and lively, beer-drinking ambience, this long-running waterhole is also famed for its darting prowess, with two well set-up dart boards claiming pride of place.

LA HABANA

CUBAN/SPANISH 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am If it's mojitos and well-mixed cocktails you want, spiced up with nightly live music and a Latin atmosphere, La Habana is the place. Run by a Chinese-German couple, this attractive, long-running Cuban bar and restaurant is one of the few watering holes in the Thai Van Lung / Le Thanh Ton area to serve up a regular dose of all things live. Also has HB beer on tap, an excellent food menu and weekly salsa classes.

LAVISH

DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style,

shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices. However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the Frenchrun Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

LUSH

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

O BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-diefor zesty beef roll-ups. Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

PHATTY’S

46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere. Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through

to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

PURPLE JADE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Purple Jade is a great place to catch up with friends or business partners or simply just to relax and enjoy great drinks. If you find yourself being overly particular about your choice of tipple, pull yourself together and ask the bartender for a cold beer with a shot of good liquor on the side.

QING

WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION CUISINE 110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar, this slither of a place mixes dark brown and maroon décor with bar-style seating and comfortable dining areas out front and at the back. An extensive new and old world wine list is, of course, part of the offering, as is an awesome pan-Asian fusion menu boasting Asian tapas (from VND85,000), international fusion mains (from VND185,000) and gourmet, creatively topped pizzas. Has a highly rated massage parlour upstairs.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home– style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

SLATE 3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com 5pm to 1am Located opposite Centrepoint, Slate takes its name from the dark grey tiling covering the floor. Merging black and silver with turquoise, and with touches like semi-private sofa beds, the offerings here include over 30 martini cocktails, a barbecue menu and perhaps one of the most contemporary yet tasteful watering holes in town

SPOTTED COW

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 111 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7670 spottedcow@alfrescosgroup.com 11am to 12pm daily Part of the Al Fresco’s Group, the original Spotted Cow bar was on Hai Ba Trung in Hanoi, a few doors down from the country’s first Al Fresco’s. Now revived and transformed into a full-on sports bar with Friesian black and white spots to match, this friendly watering hole has a good food menu to match – think pasta, pizza, burgers, baguettes and international comfort food mains. A range of happy hours and darts make up the mix.

THE DRUNKEN DUCK

SPORT / SHOOTER BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3915 2853 4pm to late A shooter bar, with over 15 down–in– one cocktails on the menu boasting names like Aquackalypse Now and The

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Duckinator, this striking, subtly lit space has a downstairs pool table, a long wooden bar and an upstairs lounge with a large, pull-down projector screen. The watering hole also shows live sport on the weekends courtesy of three flatscreen TVs. Try the shooter challenge and get a t-shirt and your name and time engraved on the wall. Also has a reasonable bar menu.

a lustrous contemporary lounge bar with all the mod cons together with some of the best, imported pool tables available in town. Rental is by the hour, the seven pool tables costing around VND100,000 while the upstairs, full-size snooker table costs a touch more. A great place to go simply for a drink or to shoot pool with friends.

CAFES

THE LIBRARY Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The Library recaptures the romance of a bygone era, offering a sophisticated all-day snack menu of exquisite delicacies devised by Executive Chef Rolando Manesco. From 2.30pm to 5pm, the Library’s nostalgic afternoon tea is served, comprising of an array of fresh-cut sandwiches, light bites and platters.

VASCO’S

EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends. A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

VELVET

DANCE / HIP-HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 Tel: 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com 8.30pm to midnight You will be hard pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and uber trendy as Velvet. It’s of no wonder then that most of its clientele are exceptionally well-dressed socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. As a result this venue has carved itself a reputation as being the place to be and to be seen. Has a ladies night every Wednesday.

VIBE BILLARDS AND LOUNGE

102 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 2599 10am to 1am A departure from the Saigon norm, this comfortably decorated, two-floor pool and snooker lounge mixes the attractions of

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AIRPLANE CAFE (CAFE MAY BAY) OUTDOOR VIETNAMESE 117 Hong Ha, Tan Binh 7am to 10pm Located on the L-shaped road behind the Parkson Centre opposite the airport, a disused war-era passenger plane sets the scene for one the city’s most unique outdoor, plastic deck chair seating cafes. So unique, in fact, that the wings act as shade from the sun, the wheels play home to a set of speakers, pot plants and fans hang from the metal casing of the aircraft while the tail has had a mini house built around it. Not surprisingly this museum of a place can get pretty crowded with families and kids awestruck by the novelty. It’s a decent cafe, too.

AN’S INTERIOR CAFE VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3 Tel: 3823 3398 www.anscafe.com 7am to 11pm Located down alleyway 38, this sumptuous cafe just off Turtle Lake Circle is chintz, kitsch, bling and contemporary baroque decor all combined into an eye-catching one. That this place is so pleasing on the eye is added to by the silvery finished sofa seating and the iPad menus. Simply swipe the menu, zoom in or zoom out to choose from a contemporary range of coffees, teas, drinks and cocktails as well as Vietnamese and pan-western cuisine.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm Classic but eye-catching cream and greentiled decor runs through this cafe and deli-style restaurant housed in a colonial building opposite Le Duan park. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix together with a Mediterranean and European cafe fare food menu that includes creative sandwiches and salads

as well as kebabs, bagels, mains and mezzos, all at prices that go easy on the wallet. Good wine list and an excellent delivery service.

BOBBY BREWER’S INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 4090 www.bobbybrewers.com 6.30am to 11pm Now with eight locations in town, this slightly synthetic, Starbucks-style airport lounge of a place continues to knock out large and tasty espresso-based coffees together with a full range of smoothies, frappuccinos, juices and much more. Also has a fast-food style western food menu and an upstairs movie lounge showing the latest Hollywood hits with Vietnamese subtitles. Check their website for the movie schedule. Movie lounges are at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 and 400B Le Van Sy, Q3.

CACOPHONY LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 www.cacophonycafe.com 7.30am to 11pm Set in a villa in a colonial era courtyard alongside two other cafes dedicated to live music, the four floors of Cacophony are all devoted to the beauty of sound, but in a different way. Take level 3, for example. An acoustic guitar and sound system sits in one corner while the room is decorated like a Hanoi urban street corner, sign, lamppost, tree, doorways and all, with the seating on cushions on the floor. Has live music in the basement space five nights a week (not Monday and Tuesday). Also has a small food menu.

CENTRO ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm The home of Caffe Vergnano, a recent makeover has added a bar area to this popular downtown cafe that serves up all things coffee - anything from ristrettos, macchiattos and lattes through to frappuccinis, mochas and spirit-infused coffees. Has a decent, mid-range Italian food menu to match that includes a large selection of panini, crostini, Italian rice dishes, salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat-based mains. Has a second cafe at 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1.

CITY GARDEN CAFE / CASUAL DINING 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 4860 citygarden.sg@gmail.com 7am to 10pm daily City Garden is somewhat of a rarity in this city. Built in a sea of bamboo, this cozy open-air, non air-con cafe offers a casual and Mediterranean-influenced menu with a creative range of reasonably priced Panini starting from VND50,000, Italian latte from VND40,000 and cocktails from VND55,000. Good music and comfortable seating round up the mix.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3508 7825 www.coffeebean.com.vn 7am to 11pm weekdays. 7.30am to 11.30pm weekends. Great, large servings of coffee have to be the biggest pull of Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, an international chain of pleasant Starbucks-like work, meet and play cafes that is gradually spreading around the city. Now with five stores around town including 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 and further afield, comfortable seating and a contemporary but generic atmosphere are bolstered by a menu of cakes, cookies, sandwiches, pastries and more.

GLORIA JEAN’S INTERNATIONAL 2BIS Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 www.gloriajeanscoffee.com/vn Wooden table seating mixed with more comfortable armchairs, subtle lighting and a serve-yourself buffet-style ordering counter are some of the key components of this coffee chain that succeeded in Australia where Starbucks failed. It’s not surprising really. The coffee is good as are its various renditions — cinamocha, chai tea chiller, Turkish Delight, mango chiller, Irish nut crème and more.

I’M YOURS MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0909 682927 9am to 10.30pm Tucked away just behind Nga Tu Phu Nhuan (The Phu Nhuan Intersection), this tiny gem of a rustic cafe combines nightly live music from 8.30pm with brown velvet upholstered sofa seating, treated dark wooden bench tables, cushions and

out & about striking wall decor. So small is this venue that there is an upstairs mezzanine level reached by old Mekong Delta-style ladder stairs and when the music starts, the place not only fills to the open rafters but gets local bus-style cramped, too. A great find.

KITA COFFEE INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL 2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own. Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3821 2718 7am to 10pm An outdoor, well-aired terrace on a corner location is the centerpiece of this fairly new but ever-popular contemporary coffee shop just behind New World Hotel. Wickerchair seating, lightbox lighting, browns, blacks and creams make up the effect, with a menu selling both Vietnamese and espresso-based coffees, smoothies, cocktails, beers and a mix of well-priced pan-international and Vietnamese fare. Live music on the weekends.

L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com Plaudits galore as well as overseas TV coverage seem to have followed this spacious, first floor bistro-style cafe above the Art Arcade. Pitting 1930s French-

style wooden decor against a spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior, a simple but creative cafe menu including sandwiches, salads, mains and cakes combines with reasonably priced coffee and good WiFi. Out back is a fashion store stocking modern, street-style brands, and an art gallery.

OPERATION: TEAROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 www.operationteavietnam.com 8am-8pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-5pm (Sat-Sun) A quiet and hidden little tearoom located on the ground floor of a yoga studio and not far from the city centre. A wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond marks the entrance to this quaint, open-air tearoom. Serving a line of high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and Vietnam, drinks start at VND35,000. Tea and teaware is also available for home use and as gifts.

PETITE NOTE MUSIC CAFE 351/4A le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3931 6312 8am to 11pm A jungle of a place with vines wrapping round stairwells, water features, pot plants and fairy lights at night, the aircon indoors transforms into a living room-style cafe obsessed by music — images of famous musicians and bands adorn the walls while the playlist is all American. Live piano enters the fray on Saturday and Sunday nights while the menu is typical Vietnamese cafe style together with fast food and a good selection of ice cream.

SOHO COFFEE LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 92 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 3606 www.soho.vn What started out as a sleek but comfortable, black and white futuristic affair on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai has now spread to five cafes around town and a restaurant at 327 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. It’s a nice formula. Comfortable but not flamboyant sofa-style seating, suave lines, curves and surfaces, a non-smoking section, good WiFi and surprisingly cheap coffee, all making a place to work, eat, rest and play. Check out their website for a list of locations.

STELLA CAFFE ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm Despite its Italian restaurant veneer in a Backpacker area location, this pleasant, mid-range venue is best known for its coffee — its lattes and cappuccinos are among the best available in town. Has both indoor and outdoor spaces as well

as an additional dining area upstairs. Although, the service is questionable.

THI CAFÉ

RETRO / VIETNAMESE 224 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 2210 2929 www.thicafe.com 8am to late A gem in an area of rough diamonds, this slightly retro, bookish but lounge-style Vietnamese café and bar brings the best of local coffee shop creativity to Backpackerville, a collection of streets more associated with the brash and the not very beautiful. Decent iced coffee and juices mix with cocktails, beer and a panAsian food menu that also has a selection of Mexican fare. Has live acoustic music five nights a week and a downstairs bar area.

TRUNG NGUYEN 50 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 6911 www.trungnguyen.com.vn 6.30am to 10.30pm A downtown location of the everexpanding Trung Nguyen chain, this pleasant two-storey cafe opposite the Bitexco Tower mixes the creams, browns and comfort seating of this international homegrown brand with the Trung Nguyen menu — six types of mixed robusta and arabica Vietnamese-style coffees together with smoothies, juices and a small range of easy food options. The best place in town to taste locally produced coffee in all its tempting guises. Also has a store at 349 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 and numerous locations around town selling their coffee.

UP CAFE CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3845 2155 7am to 11pm Even the logo is shaped like an upside down house at this funky, spacious cafe close to the Moevenpick and the airport. With whole sets of upside down tables and chairs, shelves, light fittings, mantlepieces and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up is one of the new brand of cafes spreading its wings across the city. Sells the typical range of cafe drinks and simple Vietnamese cuisine as well as cocktails, beer and more. A great place to chill.

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET HU TIEU MI ANH KY MI NOODLE SOUP / WANTON 80 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 5518 6.30am to 12pm daily Take freshly made mi noodles, put

them in a pork broth, add equally fresh wantons (hoanh thanh), maybe add in some dried hu tieu noodles and put banh quay (bread sticks) and a range of sauces on the side. Et voila, you have one of the best Chinese-style Vietnamese noodle soups in Saigon. The service may be a touch slow and you’ll have to get used to an on-the-street, back to basics atmosphere, but worth every penny (and bite).

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

MID-RANGE TAN HAI VAN PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best–known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

MID TO TOP DYNASTY CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, round-table dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town. The classic dim sum menu is reliably appetizing – check out their Sunday morning dim sum brunch. Also has a selection of set menus, both private and semi-private dining rooms and a highly rated chef hailing from Hong Kong.

KABIN CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1

Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) www.shangpalace.com.vn Located just off the Central Business District, the dark intricate wooden tables and chairs of this well-respected Chinese restaurant contrast well with the white linen and deep red carpeting. Featuring over 200 dishes including over 50 kinds of dim sum for lunch, the cuisine here is prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300 and is a good venue for events, business functions and family get-togethers.

YU CHU 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The restaurant marries contemporary style, stylish surroundings and culinary spectacle with authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. As diners look on, the skillful chefs prepare hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within the open, impeccably designed show kitchen.

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID-RANGE LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 9263 11am to 10pm Mon-Thu. 11am to 11pm Fri-Sat. Closed from 2.30pm to 5.30pm daily and Sundays A quirky and sociable family-run, family-friendly French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, home cooked-style French cuisine for lunch and dinner. Le Bouchon de Saigon offers traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, croque madame and moules marinieres, as well as an array of European fusion dishes, and competivitely priced world wines.

LE JARDIN 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3825 8465 11am to 1.30pm, 6pm to 8.20pm. Closed Sundays Unpretentious, tasty but simple French fare in a relaxed garden setting around the back of the French Cultural Centre, Idecaf. Although don’t expect much intimacy here – Le Jardin gets so crowded and the tables are so close together that private conversations are best had elsewhere. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is classically Gallic and it’s well-priced, too. Excellent, cheap house wine served by the carafe. Booking advised.

MINH KHA CAFÉ (K CAFÉ) FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 0903 852956 (Paulo) kcafesaigon@yahoo.com A French-style bistro and restaurant all in one, this Backpacker Area mainstay

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attracts a regular clientele made up of Gallic expats, tourists and more. An excellent food menu – think all things French – backs up the long bar area perfect for sipping on a Ricard or a beer or two. Daily specials board and French sports live on TV.

MID TO TOP LA FOURCHETTE PAN-FRENCH 9 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3829 8143 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm A cramped but comfortable, twostorey eatery popular with the French community. Classic fare from goats cheese salad through to seared magret duck, escargot, charcuterie plates and much more. Has a reasonable but mainly French wine list and a cosy, amiable atmosphere aided by the almost constant presence of the owner. Booking recommended.

TY COZ CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town. A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

TOP-END LA CAMARGUE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay. Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Recently relocated from its spot on Ngo Van Nam, this decidedly intimate, whitewashed, open-kitchened restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list — 75 at present count — and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its small size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com 11.30am to 2pm, and 6pm to 10pm A traditional French restaurant offering Mediterranean cuisine that’s well known for its quarterly Michelin star promotions and award winning pastry team. Seating 80 people, the restaurant exudes a southern Gallic atmosphere with its warmtoned tiled veranda, pastel coloured walls and ficus trees.

TROIS GOURMANDS CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 3744 4585 6.30pm to 10pm. Closed Monday Deliberately off the radar, Trois Gourmands is the successor of the once legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh. Despite its new District 2 location in a colonial-style bungalow, the enigmatic Gils remains at the helm of this self-styled table d'hôte, and as of old he continues to serve up some of the best, classic Gallic fare in town. As ever, the standard seven-course meal remains surprisingly cheap — presently at VND900,000 a head. The bread and even the cheese here are home made — quite a feat.

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN BUDGET BOMBAY INDIAN INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 0903 863114 11am to 10pm Daily Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine as well as roti paratha, muttapa (murtabak) and both vegetarian and meat-based mains. Like its menu, the fan-cooled dining area is simplicity personified and the prices here are cheap, too, with all the dishes costing well under VND100,000.

THE PUNJABI NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s self-made tandoor oven. Excellent.

MID-RANGE BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 6661 www.babaskitchen.in 11am to 10.30pm Run by the enigmatic Robin of former Mumtaz fame, this recently opened, pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent. From dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and the fiery vindaloo, the cuisine and hospitable service at this friendly eatery are already drawing in the customers. Good delivery service.

GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the threestorey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams. Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

out & about

DELIVERY BEN’S STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare BURGER OI Tel: 3826 5426 www.burgeroi.com Burgers, fries, onion rings and side orders CHEZ GUIDO Tel: 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches DA VINCI’S Tel: 3943 4982 www.davincisvietnam.com Pizzas, pastas, subs and salads DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants KFC Tel: 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides LOTTERIA Tel: 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers SCOOZI Tel: 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants ZIPANG Tel: 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm.com for menu

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INDUS INDIAN

LAM’S CAFÉ

BERNIE’S BAR & GRILL

INDIAN / MALAYSIAN 2G Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3521 0326 indusindiansaigon@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Just two doors away from nightspot icon Apocalypse Now, Indus Indian may not be the brightest in decor and ambience, but this is made up for by the tasty, hybrid Malay Indian fare. Run by Chef Logu, the former cook to the Consulate General of India to Vietnam, expect a Halal menu including the likes of roti canai, murtabak and Malay-styled curries as well as more traditional Indian cuisine.

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 175 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 0308 The hole-in-the-wall frontage to this darling of the Backpacker’s Area dining scene is misleading. Lam’s serves up some genuinely tasty cuisine at rock bottom prices, especially when you hit the Vietnamese menu. The fare here is typical of local home cooking and the portions are big, too. Also does Tex-Mex, Thai, Singaporean and much more. The bar Chao Saigon (222/2 Bui Vien) opposite is owned and run by the same family

INTERNATIONAL 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3822 1720 7.30am to 11pm A restobar that caters for any crowd and occasion. A fine dining room is located upstairs while the more casual bar area downstairs regularly shows live sport and hosts live music. The menu offers up a bevy of tasty western comfort food, a selection of Vietnamese fare and some of the best burgers in town.

MUMTAZ NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

PEACHES

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999 10am to 11pm A Saigon South favourite, Peaches is located in the square area between Sky Garden 2 and Sky Garden 3. A spacious, attractive restobar with comfortable, lounge-style seating and a bar area, this watering hole mixes three beers on tap and a large screen for the live sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Including anything from Sri Lankan chicken curry through to beef rending, fish head curry and mutton vindaloo, the majority of the dishes cost under VND100,000. A perfect accompaniment to the beer.

TANDOOR

NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bo b Dylan on the sound system. Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

MARKET 39 Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Market 39 specialises in a boutique selection of appetisers, locally sourced and imported seafood, succulent steaks sizzling from the grill and hand-crafted noodles. Breads and pastries are prepared all day to ensure that every dish arrives on the table, fresh and full of flavour. .MID-RANGE

AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 8424 www.alfrescosgroup.com 8.30am to 11pm The downtown outlet of one of the country’s most successful restaurant chains, the multi-storey Al Fresco’s is international comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Famous for its jumbo ribs, also making the menu is Tex-Mex, burgers, pizzas, salads and an assortment of international mains. Does an excellent delivery service. For a full list of restaurants check the website.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 8452 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Closed Mondays. A miniscule, two-floor restobar with a homely, slightly rustic feel that is the only place in town pushing the excellent, Hue-brewed Huda beer, always served cold. A free book exchange, an everyoneknows-your-name kind of atmosphere and mains from tuna steak and bangers and mash through to burgers, schnitzels, burritos and sarnies make up the formula here. Does a popular roast from 5.30pm every Sunday.

CASABLANCA MOROCCAN CUISINE PAN-NORTH AFRICAN 58/9 Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: 3862 8859 6pm to midnight. Closed Monday The first Moroccan restaurant in Saigon’s history has an intimate, cozy setting. Couscous mains start at around VND100,000, while couscous with lamb, chicken and beef is just under VND200,000. Other Moroccan specialties such as slow–cooked lamb with almond and plums and roasted quail with sweet mrozia sauce are also on the menu. Chef Riahi’s home–made pastries such as baklava and “gazelle horns” filled with almond paste are a rarity in the city.

DOMINO'S PIZZA AMERICAN PIZZA DELIVERY 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7; The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn 10am to 10pm Despite its delivery-only reputation, Domino's in Vietnam is also doing a roaring trade with eat in diners thanks to its upstairs restaurant space. It's all very casual, of course, with the pizzas served out of the box, but with a range of combos starting at VND70,000 for a small pizza and coke, and now with thin crust available, the Domino's taste and experience has successfully been imported to Vietnam. Check their website for full menu and specials.

ELBOW ROOM

BAHDJA 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 11pm (Mon-Fri), 6pm to 11pm (Sat) Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

IMPERIAL RUSSIAN 6 Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3829 4644 11am to late A larger than life-size Russian doll stands

out & about

out & about outside the entrance of this three-storey beautiful mismatch-of-styles, Russianrun venue. Filled with Eastern European imagery, red theatre-style curtains and Soviet propaganda art, the weekly changing Russian menu includes the likes of borsh, Russian salad, dumplings and cutlets, and can be adapted to your needs for party bookings. Located close to Basilico.

KITA RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

foodie CORNER

MOGAMBO

PHOTOS BY JAMES PHAM

The Cake of Legend PART OF BEING A FOODIE MEANS knowing where your food came from. Who hasn’t heard of the 18th century Earl of Sandwich who, reluctant to leave his 24hour cribbage game for a meal, famously ordered a servant to bring salted beef between two pieces of bread (ostensibly so he wouldn’t get his card-playing fingers greasy)? Or the ubiquitous La Vache Qui Rit cheese whose creator threw together leftover comté, gruyere, and emmental cheeses at the end of WW1 and named it after a sign he saw on a meat wagon — Wachkyrie — after the Valkyries of Norse mythology? Not to be outdone, Vietnam’s own banh chung, the square banana leaf wrapped block of glutinous rice, pork and mung beans has its own legend. It all started with Emperor Hung the sixth (c. 1712-1632 BC). To resolve the dilemma of which of his 18 sons should succeed him, he presented them with a food challenge: whichever prince was able to find the dish that was both delicious and meaningful would inherit the throne. The princes set out to countries far and wide.

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The youngest prince, Tiet Lieu, instead chose to follow the advice of a dream fairy who told him there was nothing more valuable to the people than rice. The fairy instructed him to make two cakes, one square (now known as banh chung) and one round and long (banh tet), representing Heaven and Earth. On the appointed day, all the princes came in with amazing foods from across the land. When the Emperor got to Tiet Lieu's humble cakes, he didn't know what to make of them. But once he heard the story of the dream and tasted the cakes, he gave the throne to Tiet Lieu. And the rest, as they say, is history.

By the Kilo Essentially, banh chung is made from simple ingredients — glutinous rice wrapped around a filling of boiled mung beans, basic seasonings of fish sauce and black pepper, and pork belly — all encased in banana leaves. The cakes are boiled in a vat lined with extra leaves for 10 to 12 hours and then pressed for another few hours in wooden molds to drain and to maintain

their square shape. While primarily eaten during Tet (with fancier variations including cashews or dried shrimp), it can be found yearround, starting at VND20,000 for each half kilo cake. If given as a gift, they are usually given in pairs, never singly. Popular as a breakfast food to have at home, banh chung is often paired with something sour to cut through the heaviness of the rice, like kimchi or the more traditional Vietnamese pickled white radishes and perhaps a dash of soy sauce. There you have it. The cake that changed the course of Vietnamese history. Eating tip: Fully unwrap the cakes and cut them into squares before microwaving or steaming. Another option is to cut it into thin slices and pan fry until the edges get crispy. — James Pham Often sold in corner shops that also sell bread, they are also stocked in Co.op Marts around the city. A selection of banana leaf wrapped delectables can be found at 151A Le Quang Dinh, Binh Thanh.

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn 9am to 11pm daily Known for their American-styled burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex, the two-storey Mogambo claims pride of place as one of the city’s longest running restobars. A well-known expat meeting spot, Savannah-esque, bamboo décor and booth seating make up the mix together with a pleasant bar space. Dishes run from fajitas and burritos through to chicken cordon bleu, pies, the coronary bypass burger, salad, soup, gumbos and spare ribs.

PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 9838 www.pizza4ps.com 11.30am to 11pm, Tue-Sun Italian tradition meets Japanese ingenuity at Pizza 4P’s. This quirky fusion pizza parlor serves whacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza, calamari seaweed pizza and teriyaki chicken pizza, as well as more traditional types such as quattro formaggi, marinara and the old faithful, margherita pizza. Those with an adventurous streak can also order their pizza half and half. Pan-European and Asian soups, salads and a la carte mains make up the rest of the menu.

REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

SCOTT AND BINH'S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0948 901465 www.bizuhotel.com/main/pages/sb-food.php 4pm to 11pm. Closed Monday

American chef/owner Scott Marquis offers a creative international menu that he likes to call “comfort food with a twist”. Serving all homemade soups, salads, sharing plates, burgers, sandwiches, pastas, main courses and desserts, the restaurant also boasts a full bar, ice cold beer and an international wine list to complement your meal. Also has a daily happy hour from 4pm to 7pm on ‘buy one get one free’ bottled beers and local spirits mixed drinks to complement the usual selection.

SNAP CAFE INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4532 www.snap.com.vn 7.30am to 10.30pm (weekdays). 7.30am to 11.30pm (weekends) A huge banyan tree sits in the entrance of Snap Cafe, a rustic-themed airy cafe and retail space with thatched roofing, jungle-like foliage and a kiddy’s play area. Breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, mains including Asian cuisine and weekly specials make up the cuisine mix, complemented by a range of benches and sofa seating that gives this venue a unique feel. Retail outlets include Oasis Deli, a furniture store and YB Designs jewellery.

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 3897 vscooterguy@yahoo.com 7am to 2am daily Known for its excellent scooter-themed burgers, this Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a Vietnamese-style sidewalk drinking haunt by night. A corner location, friendly staff and American deli-style fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Also serves Tex-Mex and Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a Vespa tour service from within the café.

MID TO TOP ALIBI

STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 10am to late Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its mural of Copenhagen taking up the length of one wall attracts a mix of Scandinavian and international punters, all enjoying the offerings from the well-stocked bar and the reasonably priced Danish-influenced pub grub menu. Dishes include Danishstyle fried pork and meatballs, frankfurt sausages, a range of grilled fare, burgers and much more. Has three screens for the live sport and seating areas out back and upstairs.

SUBWAY 171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 4497 Ground Floor, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4849 121 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 4118 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere. Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

TRADERS

WARDA

NEW YORK/ INTERNATIONAL 76 Bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 3556 7am to midnight Located in the stock market area in between the canal and Ham Nghi, this funky, Wall Street-styled restobar takes the concept of its name and mixes it with an ever-changing set of deals on drinks and cuisine. With cash-obsessed, comic strip style American artwork lining the walls and a great, curved long bar, the French-influenced American food menu includes pizza, hotdogs, salads, tartines and bracket kebabs. Great concept and a good place for more than just a beer.

INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

BOAT HOUSE

up international comfort food such as burgers and pizzas as well as tasty Asian standards. Also has a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. Part of the Riverside Apartments complex. Check for daily boat schedule between the complex and downtown Saigon.

Cafe fare made with American flair

BROTZEIT GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4206 www.brotzeit.co/kumholink 11am to 12am daily The city’s first contemporary German bier bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers wellknown German black, blonde and gold beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine — think sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed, contemporary yet chic setting. Almost a Bavarian variation of the British gastropub chain All Bar One, the interior comprises wooden benches, wooden tables and a long wooden bar counter, as well as a semi open-air balcony overlooking Le Duan.

CHARNER CAFÉ EUROPEAN/ASIAN 98 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 6065 7am to 11pm Situated above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, Charner Café offers pan-European and Asian cuisine despite its overtly mid-to-late 20th century Parisian-inspired interior. Excellent soups, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes are all available at reasonable prices ranging from VND120,000 to VND350,000, as are Chinese and Thai-style Asian courses. Also serves breakfast, brunch and good coffee.

FIGARO

ITALIAN-STYLE TAPAS / RESTOBAR 17 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 9095 10am to 11pm

Burgers Panini Baguettes American Breakfasts Tex-Mex Asian Specialties

169a De Tham

@ Tran Hung Dao Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 7am-2am daily

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 7.30am to 11pm daily The river plays a big role in this spacious restrobar in An Phu on the banks of Saigon's river. The menu offers seasonal dishes that include share plates, mains, classics and desserts along with a hearty breakfast menu and kids menu. Boat House caters for small to large functions, with three areas to choose from within an ideal private setting. Also provides occasional live music, mini festivals and various themed events.

BOOMERANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 6592 www.boomerang.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Take the Esplanades in Singapore, transport one of the Lion City’s seafrontstyle restaurants to Vietnam and you have Boomerang, a two-story, Australianthemed but Singapore-owned eatery and bar with great terraced seating specializing in international fare all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. The menu runs the gamut from pizzas (around VND220,000) through to grills, salads and burgers (around VND185,000).

BLU BAR & GRILL INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 7am to 11pm An easy, breezy, light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river. Serves

September 2012 Word | 101

out & about

Peaches

Carl's Junior

Crescent Mall

Lawrence S.ting Building

Saigon Exhibition Centre

Mini Golf Course and Swimming Pool

Au Lac Do Brazil

Parkson Paragon Shopping Mall and Cinema

Korean Internationl School

El Gaucho

Boomarang

Cham Charm

YEEBO Broadway Building, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Flashy hotpot joint great for large parties.

102 | Word September 2012

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Dang Duc Thuat

Ha Huy Tap

Nguyen Binh

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Pham Thai Buong

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.vn 8am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the well known Australian chain mixes hearty pub grub such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere thanks to the big screen TVs regularly showing various sporting events. Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long bar space and grassy/patio outdoor terrace, drinks include a mainly new world wine list and various local and imported beers and spirits. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

39 Le Duan, Q1 www.kumholink.com.vn/en As Saigon’s one and only dedicated “Drinking and Dining destination”, Kumho Link has made a name for itself by being able to suit everyone’s food and drink desires: with quality Western, Hong Kong Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Singaporean, Thai and Vietnamese fare, along with great cocktails, imported German Beer and live music.

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WRAP & ROLL SA1–1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 5412 0461

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TOKYO DELI SC6–1 Parkview Building, Q7 Tel: 5410 1166

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TIB Broadway Building, 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 6868

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SURASANG 1417 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Korean deli displaying bowl after bowl of various types of kim chi and other traditional fare. THE TAVERN R2–24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 3900 Cold beer, friendly service, a convivial atmosphere and a pavement terrace make this a perfect place for a pit stop any time of the day.

FV Hospital

Nguyen D ong Chi

SARPINO’S PIZZA GrandView Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2480

NG BA NG UO L EN UY

PIZZA INN 4 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 1196

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PARIS DELI Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

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ONE MORE SA9–1 My Khanh III, Ha Huy Tap, Q7 An everybody–knows–your–name type atmosphere at this local bar.

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OHAN S1 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Quality Japanese fare in a stylish atmosphere. Prices are higher but so is quality.

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NATHALIE’S THAI RESTAURANT S9–HV3 Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 A strong neighbourhood vibe at this pleasantly decorated Thai eatery–cum–café.

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LOVE NOODLE HOUSE D002 Nguyen Binh, Q7 Singaporean noodle house.

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Ly Long Tuong - Tay

DISTRICT 7

LA PIZZA ITALIANA SF 19-1 Canh Vien 1 Duong Pho Tieu Nam, Q7 Tel: 08 5417 0511/2 - for deliveries Selling authentic Italian thin-crust pizzas & a selection of pasta dishes.

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JUJAEGEUM Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Enormous bakery, patisserie and chocolatier.

GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2289 International–style coffee house with the usual range of cappucinos, frappucinos and mochaccions to drink or take away.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

CREMONA 55 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Italian–style cake shop and café that serves excellent coffees and tasty sweets.

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CAFÉ TERRACE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2178

Taipei Internationl School

The Tavern 01

DISTRICT 7

Specialising in Italian-style tapas and fine dining in a casual setting, Figaro offers an assortment of aperrandivi dishes, weekly blackboard specials, gourmet pizzas, pastas and salads, and an extensive selection of wines by the bottle from Italy, France, Chile, Australia and New Zealand. Premium beers, spirits and cocktails make up the rest.

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LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am Cuban–themed bar and restaurant selling a tasty range of Cuban and Spanish cuisine. The signature seafood–based paella goes for VND330,000 for two people and a big selection of tapas starts at VND40,000 each. Also has a small German menu featuring favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Does excellent cocktails, and,three–course lunches, including a drink, for under VND200,000.

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com 8am to 10pm daily. MM Bistro 6.30am to 9pm daily. The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place to go in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard with a kids’ play area, a bar space, wicker-style seating and notice boards galore, the cuisine is a mixture of gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, salads, pasta

and pizza interlaced with Gulf of Thailand seafood imported directly from Phu Quoc. Also does a great breakfast. A recent addition is the aircon, bakery-style MM Bistro out front.

MY PLACE

195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 8301 www.myplace.com.vn 11am to late, Tue-Sun Renovated from an old French colonialera villa, My Place is a sleek, high-end gastro-pub with private salons, an idyllic garden space and several bar areas. Serves both local and international fare including stews, clams, pasta dishes and finger food. Also does a BBQ every Saturday night, brunches on Sundays and offers various daily food and drinks promotions.

PASHA

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas. Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene. The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

SKEWERS

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE

A Taste of Authenticity

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 11am to midnight The downstairs café-cum-lounge bar of this iconic downtown modern Vietnamese restaurant mixes subtle lighting with contemporary artwork ands design touches, a swathe of browns, cream, maroon, sofa-style seating and deep red upholstery. Serving a range of international fare together with Vietnamese dishes throughout the day, nighttime turns this venue into an upmarket, downtown bar. Known for its cocktails and extensive wine list.

ZANZBAR

INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

TOP-END AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3820 7157 www.aulacdobrazil.com 5pm to 10.30pm Au Lac Do mixes a Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. Heading up the menu is the churrasco, the Brazilian barbecue, with 12 cuts of smoked, barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, all hand carved quite theatrically at your table. Not surprisingly the place can get a little busy, so best to book. Has a second restaurant at 36/19–21 Ground floor, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7.

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

VASCO’S AT THE CRESCENT

VINO

BLANCHY’S TASH +

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Q7 Tel: 5414 1717 11am to 11pm. Closed Mondays A restaurant rather than a bar and events space, the District 7 incarnation of the iconic downtown bar Vasco’s offers up outdoor, terrace-style seating together with an attractive upstairs bar and lounge area. Also has a great selection of wines courtesy of Bacchus Corner, who have a mini store on the premises. The cuisine runs the gamut from the likes of beef carpaccio and goat’s cheese salad all the way through to the beef tenderloin, seabass in Serrano ham and excellent pizzas.

JAPANESE / PERUVIAN FUSION 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 11am to 3am Located in a three-storey building in the centre of downtown Saigon – and named after French colonial-era mayor Rue Paul Blanchy — this popular high-end restobar pulls in both diners and latenight revellers thanks to its inventive Japanese-Peruvian fusion menu (designed by former Nobu chef Martin Brito), late opening hours and regular DJ sets. Check out their sashimi and tartares. Mouthwateringly good.

CHILL SKYBAR 26th & 27th Floor Rooftop, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 2372 www.chillsaigon.com 5pm to 10pm (restaurant). 5pm to 2am (bar & lounge)

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00 www.pendolasco.vn

out & about

AN PHU BLU BAR & GRILL 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 An easy, breezy light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river serves up comfort food and Asian standards. Also with a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. BOATHOUSE APSC Compound, 40 Lily Road, Q2 info@boathouse.com.vn The menu is built around surf and turf. Lunch comprises of a healthy selection of soups, salads and sandwiches while dinner concentrates on top–end beef, seafood and pastas. CAFÉ EVITA 230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Pizzas, salads, burgers, pastas, ice cream and a whole lot more besides is on hand to keep the entire family full and happy at this bright, airy and well kitted–out eatery. GAUDI 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4722 A Spanish tapas restaurant decorated in the style of Spanish architect Gaudi. Italian dishes such as pizza, risotto and pasta are also on offer. GOOD EATS NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Connected to NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, the menu is based on the theme of maintaining a long and healthy life. MEKONG MERCHANT 23 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 Superb dining space in leafy, shaded courtyard. Fresh Phu Quoc seafood is the speciality. Other staples are homemade pizzas, salads and daily specials. SNAP CAFE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Chilled, rustic, open–air style cafe set in a large courtyard with comfortable wooden seating, banana–leaf roofing and an outdoor playground area for kids. TAMAGO 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4634 Serving a range of authentic Japanese dishes and sushi, Tamago offers a weekly Sunday buffet lunch and BBQ/ yakiniku on Thursday evenings. Indoor and outdoor seating, with a great terrace. Private rooms also available. Call for home delivery.

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out & about Offering breath-taking views of the city, Chill consists of an upscale restaurant, posh sky bar and a sophisticated lounge. The music schedule offers everything from chill-out, R&B and sexy house to hip-hop. A “Sunset Happy Hour Special” runs Mondays through Thursdays from 5.30pm to 8:30pm. Make sure to dress well as Chill operates a no-shorts/no-sandals dress code policy.

CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 6am to 11pm The sleek, contemporary brown and cream decor at this street level steakhouse in the Norfolk Hotel plays host to a gem of a place close to Ben Thanh Market. Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range US or Australian steaks as well as the great grill and comfort food menu makes this a good option for a quality bite. Steaks start at VND390,000 for a decent sized cut. Does a nightly, competitively priced wine buffet.

EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 1879 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late A pleasant downtown eatery mixing the Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. The smaller downstairs and kitchen area is complemented by a no-smoking dining space upstairs replete with a bar and an outdoor terrace. Add to this bar-brick wall decor, light-wood tables and Argentinian themed photography on the walls and you have a well-rounded, popular restaurant only a stone’s throw from the Opera House.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE & WINERY AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7373 www.steakhouse.com.vn 11am to midnight Evoking a retro, black and white Hollywood movie star environment, NYSW is known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, table-carved double strip loins and chateaubriands. Side dishes include black truffle cream spinach, potato dauphinois and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive wine list adds to the overall dining experience, which is enhanced by the all red and grey diner-style décor. Has an upstairs cigar room.

NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine. Often puts on specials and brings in overseas chefs. Presently regarded as one of the best buffet restaurants in town.

PARKVIEW INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 6am to 10pm The ground floor, flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, the minimalist yet slightly kitsch décor here is designed to bring out the colours and ambiance of the

restaurant’s lavish buffets. Served three times a day, with a number of alternative cooking stations, the cuisine runs the gamut from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood to creative salads, cold cuts and cheese plates to a range of desserts. Also does an excellent range of promotions. Check their website for details.

QUO VADIS INTERNATIONAL FUSION 5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 8am to 11pm This lounge-restaurant (below Lavish) is centrally located and has elegant, peaceful and cozy surroundings. The décor includes reproduction furniture, sculptures, flowers and oil paintings, and the menu has a great range of well-presented Asian and European dishes. The service is friendly, relaxed and attentive. A great place to meet friends to relax, eat and drink.

REFLECTIONS INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 6pm to 11pm Pan-Mediterranean and European dishes make up the bulk of the offerings at the refined but surprisingly fresh Reflections. The Caravelle Hotel’s signature restaurant, old images of the city grace the walls while a pianist plays nightly in the separate bar area. And yet the fare is surprisingly contemporary. Cosy yet elegant, a well–sourced wine list and a pre-bookable private dining room make this a good choice for that special meal or to entertain people who need to be entertained.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 6am to 11pm Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus an ongoing roster of themed lunches in a fresh, elegant setting.

SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270–degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfortspared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

STRATA INTERNATIONAL/ASIAN Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 6291 8750 www.cirrussaigon.com 10am to 10pm Strata is an all-day restaurant and events venue offering a panoramic view of Saigon. Food offered includes an express business lunch from 11:30am to 2pm, high tea from 2:30pm to 5pm and a buffet dinner 6:30pm to 10pm, as well as an all-day a la carte menu. A separate private function space provides a suitable venue for business meetings, corporate events, seminars/conferences, and private dining.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm.

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN BUDGET MARGHERITA ITALIAN, TEX-MEX, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 0760 8am to 11pm daily This family-run restaurant has been on of the Backpackers’ Area mainstays for well over a decade, selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas all mixed in with pan-western cuisine, tasty Vietnamese fare and a few Tex-Mex dishes. Amiable owners, a pleasant atmosphere, reasonable pricing and an efficient delivery service make up the mix.

SALT AND PEPPER TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7. Tel: 5412 4848 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm Located in the modern confines of The Crescent, this contemporary-styled Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an open kitchen and a relaxing outdoor terrace area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian cuisine, the menu includes a nice selection of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas and desserts, all at affordable prices. At night the cozy atmosphere creates the ideal ambience for a dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine.

MID-RANGE CENTRO CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm A contemporary Italian-themed cafe and restaurant mixing the best of the peninsular’s coffee — anything from ristrettos and macchiattos to frappuccinis — with a decent cafe-based food menu that also includes a more extensive selection of mains. As well as a substantial range of meat and vegetarian panini and crostini, there are also Italian rice dishes, creative salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat or seafood-based mains.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 3329 www.saigonrestaurantgroup.com 9am to 11pm A fun and affordable New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of interesting and tasty antipasti, pastas, pizzas and more. Friendly and attentive staff, rustic bare brick walls and warm Tuscan yellow colouring make for a relaxed and attractive setting to dine while Sinatra, Deano and Sammy croon in the background.

STELLA CAFFE

ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm daily Besides serving up one of the best lattes in town, the tasteful, two-storey Caffe Stella has become one of the main expat haunts in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly staff, decent WiFi,

reasonable Italian cuisine and indoor aircon space. Although there are a number of Vietnamese dishes on offer, the cuisine here is all Italian – think antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata and Italian-style mains – all sold at decent prices.

PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 6253 2828 www.pendolasco.vn 11am to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

MID TO TOP BASILICO CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Cnr. Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.icasianasaigon.com 6.30am to 10.30pm A sleek, modern-styled trattoria attached to the back of the Intercontinental, the professionally designed, international Italian fare encompasses anything from carne and pesce dishes through to pizza, pasta, baguettes, focaccia and panini. Has a breezy, tree-shaded outdoor street terrace area and is often packed at mealtimes. For being part of a five-star, prices here are very reasonable.

CASA ITALIA CLASSIC ITALIAN 86 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn 10am to midnight Pompeii ceiling tiling, Roman arches and a classic Italian feel pervade this restaurant close to Ben Thanh Market. The fare mixes international Italian cuisine such carbonara, Bolognese and Arrabiata dishes with regional specialities such as the linguine sfiziose and excellent wood-fire oven pizzas. Has a good selection of mains as well as an intimate wine cellar-style dining space upstairs.

LA HOSTARIA TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful, rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House. The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni. This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

TOP-END LA BRACERIA PIZZA & GRILL 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn The pastel-coloured, Roman arch brickwork of this airy, three-storey restaurant provides the setting for a more unusual variation on the Italian theme — the grill. Cooked over lava stones (think Mount Etna) or in the wood-fired pizza oven, dishes include steaks, lamb chops, Andouillette sausage, skewers and a range of seafood, all marinated with a selection of Mediterranean spices. Also does a range of pasta, pizza and traditional starters.

OPERA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 6am to 11pm Unpretentious, casual but elegant bistro– style restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu which starts with pasta and wood–fired pizza, and then moves on to an expertly crafted selection of gourmet fare. A terrace offers the chance to observe the city goings–on. The wine list is a compact selection from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and great open kitchens. Has a laid-back separate bar area, too.

RESTAURANTS – JAPANESE & KOREAN

BUDGET ASIAN KITCHEN PAN-ASIAN / JAPANESE 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 7397 7am to midnight daily While standard Japanese day-to-day fare is the focus of this long-running, bamboo-clad eatery close to Chi’s Café, the menu here also includes Vietnamese, Indian, western and vegetarian options. With prices remaining at rock bottom – VND45,000 to VND65,000 for a mains — Asian Kitchen is a favourite with budget tourists and is highly rated on Trip Advisor.

TOKYO BBQ JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 2527 9.30am to 2pm, 4.30pm to midnight The wooden and charcoal panelling together with the open downstairs kitchen and upstairs swathed-in-red dining area give this contemporary Japanese eatery a casual but comfortable ambience. Specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoal-grilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, while the various other meat and vegetable options are also an excellent choice. Does a great lunch set starting at under VND100,000, rising to just under VND300,000 for the barbecue set.

MID-RANGE DRAGON NOODLE JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3521 0008 www.ramen.vn 11am to 1am Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the defining feature of this decidedly Japanese eatery is the black and white sketch of old Saigon stretching the whole length of the righthand wall. Bar-table as well as standard seating adds to the atmosphere while the menu focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also has a number of stir-fried options and a rice dish-based lunch menu.

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out & about

MUS MUS JAPANESE HOTPOT 117 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3930 9185 www.musmus.net 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm An excellent slither of a place specialising in Japanese-style hotpots, shabu-shabu and, in particular, the awesome steamed hotpot. Choose 12 ingredients (including meats and seafood) from the menu and steam over a broth on your table. Eat the remaining soup with rice or noodles. A great, tasty and remarkably healthy dish. And it’s cheap, too.

KABUTO TOKYO

JAPANESE / FUSION 45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 2351 11am to 1.30am Aiming to add some "Nippon (Japanese) culture” to Saigon’s dining scene, Kabuto Tokyo offers typical Japanese cuisine such as sushi and sashimi, fusion dishes like Kabuto Mushi and steamed Vietnamese seafood, and various skewers (roasted pork, Yakitori chicken) with salted rice and soy flavoured rice malts. The restaurant itself mixes Manga cartoons on the walls with golden ceilings and traditional Japanese armour, swords and huge carp steamer lantern displays.

OOO / MARUSAN YAKITORI / CHICKEN RESTAURANT 37 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 3911 9000 www.yakitori-ooo.com 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Possibly one of the most eye-catching Japanese restaurants in town, this snug two-storey space mixes light wooden and bare industrial brick decor with a downstairs wooden topped bar area and upstairs cubby holes for semi-private dining. Serving all things chicken from hotpots and yakitori fare through to deep

fried chicken on a huge bed of dried chillis, the trilingual menu also includes Korean soju, saki, a big selection of wine and imported Japanese beer.

OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 11am to 3am Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm Sunday If you like your noodles in every possible form and prefer them to be Japanese, then this sleek, open-kitchened contemporary eatery may just be a little slice of heaven. Served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes, the ramen are supplemented by a range of smaller, appetizing sides. The Phu My Hung branch is on Nguyen Duc Canh next to S’Cottage.

SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr 7am to 10pm Now on its third location, the simply designed Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular. Two floors with a mixture of standard and sit-on-the-floor seating cater for a cosmopolitan clientele. The cuisine takes on the full Korean food spreadsheet with everything from banchan starters, kim chi and bulgoggi through to barbecues, claypot mixed rice and awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

YAMANEKO JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko–vn.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 1am Tucked away in an alley off Le Thanh Ton,

the funky Yamaneko offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Including dishes such as buta no syoga yaki tesuko (grilled pork marinated in ginger sauce) and rafute soba tesoku (Okinawa soba noodle with soft stewed pork). Standard Japanese fare is also on hand if you don’t want to dive into something a little different. Does a great set lunch deal

MID TO TOP FUJI RESTAURANT

Ground floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon, 235 Nguyen Van Cu Street, Q1 Tel: 3830 8123 Lunch: 11:00 - 14:30 Dinner: 18:00 - 22:30 Fuji restaurant offers luxury Japanese cuisine in Saigon such as Teppanyaki, sushi and Japanese dishes. All ingredients are prepared two Japanese Chefs from Tokyo and Osaka. The big selection of wine, sake and premium Japanese Wagyu beef. Tasty set lunch menus start VND 252.000++.

INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 0326 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita. Originally from Osaka this old hand travelled the world prior to serving a stint at the former Omni Hotel (now Moevenpick). His present venture features diminutive downstairs bar seating and upstairs space together with some of the best sushi and sashimi in town. The key is not just in the cutting and preparation, but in the ingredients and presentation. Here it is faultless.

SUSHI DINING AOI SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3

Tel: 3930 0039 www.sushidiningaoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. All sushi dishes are prepared by a professional sushi chef from Japan. Tasty set lunches start from a very reasonably priced VND90,000.

URAETEI BBQ RESTAURANT JAPANESE BBQ 2A Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 6673 9373 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Cool and dark, this forest grotto of a restaurant deals in natural finishes and a sense of isolated calm, all added to by private booths and food prepared at the table. Dishes include salty fish/squid, fresh raw beef, smoked chicken, fried pork cutlet, seafood pizza, sukiyaki and shabu shabu hot pot. The speciality here, though, is yakiniku, traditional Japanese grilled meat. Delicious.

RESTAURANTS – SOUTHEAST ASIAN

BUDGET CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

MID-RANGE

MONSOON RESTAURANT & BAR SAIGON

BAAN THAI PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 5453 www.baanthai-anphu.com 11am to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday. Open until midnight on Friday and Saturday Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating fill the restaurant and lounge bar area of this eatery on the main drag in An Phu. The menu focuses on a range of rice, noodle, fried and curry dishes with a mix of other fare including a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as a selection of salads, including the likes of the firey larb moo and Laotian som tam.

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1 Tel: 6290 8899 10am to 11pm Located minutes away from the backpacker area in a beautifully restored French colonial-era villa, Monsoon Restaurant & Bar Saigon specialises in pan-Southeast Asian cuisine from Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. Reasonably priced, with a great selection of health-conscious smoothies and juices, expect traditional favourites served in a boldly contemporary and visually arresting setting.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

NATHALIE'S

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn 11am to 10pm Whitewashed décor with a distinctly Thai theme – images of the Royal family, elephant embroidery and more – provide the atmosphere at this excellent, longrunning restaurant. The fare runs from laab salads (from VND75,000) through to curries (from VND75,000), traditional Thai mains, som tam (VND70,000), fish cakes and dishes such as the deep-fried catfish with mango salad (VND75,000). Has three VIP rooms upstairs.

JASMINE THAI PAN-THAI Tel: 3519 0038 Tues to Sun 5pm to 9.30pm A cosy, Thai-style garden dining area with a children’s playroom, this eatery off the main drag in An Phu provides soft, candle-lit lighting, Thai music and a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine runs the gamut from Bangkok Thai through to Laotian and Isaan cuisine, with anything from massaman and green curries through to lap ped and mains such as phad prew wan gai. Also does an efficient District 2 delivery service that includes The Manor and Saigon Pearl.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic five-storey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

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PAN-THAI S9 Hung Vuong 3, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 www.nathaliesrestaurant.com 7am to 10pm Both a cafe and a restaurant, its corner location on the opposite side of the highway from KFC has gained Nathalies's a reputation among Vietnamese, Asian expats and more. Claiming to serve up 'Thai Fine Cuisine', all cooked without MSG, and with a particular focus on seafood, mains on the pan-Thai menu go for between VND100,000 and VND200,000. Also has an outdoor Thai noodle stand.

MID-TO-TOP KOH THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 4423 www.kohthai.vn 11am to 12am daily A modern Thai fusion restaurant that merges traditional Thai flavours with contemporary European presentation and cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus on set menus while the evening fare concentrates on a la carte. An extensive wine list and creative cocktails merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

VICKI’S TEPPANYAKI & BBQ 42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3232 www.vickis.com.vn 11am to 11pm Offering teppanyaki-style live cooking over seven floors, this completely non-smoking restaurant is fun for all the family. Headed up by Thailand’s No. 1 teppanyaki chef, the all-Thai cheffing team possess an arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, with each chef preparing the food in front of guests on a traditional teppanyaki-style grill. Offering fresh local and imported meats and seafood at market prices, customers can also choose from an extensive set menu ranging from around VND500,000 to VND1.2 million per person

RESTAURANTS – VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh

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food Promos out & about

THE CARAVELLE Vietnamese National Day banquet at Restaurant Nineteen on Sep. 2. Sample an array of appetizers, take a cut from the prime meat grill station, and taste 21 desserts. Priced at VND1,013,000++ / person with free flow of Spanish and Italian house wines. Take a bite out of their ‘Exclusive Burger’ from Sep. 12 to Sep. 18, between noon and 10pm at Reflections Restaurant, Restaurant Nineteen, or the Lobby Lounge or call up for Room Service. Priced at VND550,000++ Tarts of all colours, tastes and textures are making a special appearance at Lobby Lounge. Snack on quiche Lorraine and Alsace onion, or spoil yourself with favourites from the sweet selection, including white Belgium chocolate, lemon curd and flamed meringue. Between noon and 5pm, every day from Sep. 12 to Sep. 18. From Sep. 12 to Sep. 18, The Caravelle will prepare an a la carte menu showcasing the prized artichoke of Italian, French and Mediterranean cuisine. Reflections’ chefs have also created a four-course artichoke testing menu. The meal starts with artichoke chips tea, warm artichoke and scallops disc with rosemary honey dressing and crispy vegetables, and more. A la carte from VND228,000++/ dish. The Artichoke Testing Menu: VND1,160,000++/ person www.caravellehotel.com HOTEL EQUATORIAL Enjoy a wide range of moon cake flavours to celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival. Choose from 10 different flavours including coconut, mixed spices and roasted chicken, and eight presentation boxes. Early birds will receive a complimentary box if they order and pay for 10 boxes before Sep. 9. www.equatorial.com/hcm/ INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON Enjoy the Korean cuisine discovery journey at Market 39 with a Korean guest chef team from Seoul. Enjoy local Korean delicacies including kimchi and bulgogi. Priced at VND498,000 per person for the buffet lunch and VND728,000 per person for buffet dinner including drinks. Available till Sep. 14. dine@icasianasaigon.com NEW WORLD SAIGON Enjoy a Malaysian-themed food and

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cultural promotion called Colors of Malaysia in September at Parkview. The 16-day festival begins Sep. 11. In collaboration with the Malaysia Tourism Promotion Board, enjoy dishes including nasi lemak, chicken masak merah and prawn sambal petai. A dance troupe will perform a cultural performance twice a day at lunch and dinner, between Sep. 11 to Sep. 16. Priced at VND500,000 per person for lunch and VND790,000 per person for dinner. www.newworldhotels.com HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON Savour homemade moon cakes at Ming Court in celebration of the MidAutumn Festival. Enjoy seven flavours including taro and pineapple, green tea, Japanese chestnut and more. Available till Sep. 30 and priced at VND700,000 per box of four. www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn PARK HYATT Square One is hosting the final series of Park Hyatt Masters of Food and Wine on Sep. 22. The series features Hanoi cuisine and a master class on pho. The class is priced at VND627,000 per person. www.restaurants.parkhyattsaigon. com RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE SAIGON For the mid-autumn festival, the hotel will be offering healthy moon cake options such as low sugar white lotus, green tea custard azuki, espresso walnut latte and pandan lotus single yolk. Priced at VND818,000 per box of foue. Special discounts include: 5 percent off for Renaissance Dining Club members, 10 percent off for any order of 10 boxes or more, 15 percent off for any order of 50 boxes or more and 20 percent off for any order of 100 boxes or more. Available till Sep. 22. Place your order at tel: 3822 0033 ext 2300 SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT Celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival with homemade moon cakes prepared by Hong Kong chef Lim Eng Cheong. Flavours include White lotus with macademia, durian paste and coffee mung bean paste. Available till Sep. 30. reservation@shangpalace.com.vn SHERATON Celebrate Sheraton’s 75th anniversary

See more at wordhcmc.com with a range of offers running for 75 days from Sep. 1. Enjoy afternoon tea for two at The Lounge, priced at VND1,750,000++ per person including tea and two glasses of Moet & Chandon Rose Champagne. Sample the anniversary cake from VND105,000++ at The Lounge and Mojo. Master pastry chef, Pascal Pochon, will be visiting the Saigon Café and Signature restaurant from Sep. 10 to Sep. 16. Enjoy the five-course chocolate themed wine dinner on Sep. 14 at Signature. Priced at VND1,750,000++. On Sep. 16 the champagne Sunday brunch at Saigon Café will be accompanied by a wide range of chocolate specialties. Brunch is priced at VND1,100,000++ Celebrate Vietnam Independence Day on Sep. 2 at Saigon Café. Enjoy traditional Vietnamese specialities including beef and star fruit salad, baked honey chicken and more. Dinner includes free flowing house wine, coffee and tea. Priced at VND1,200,000++ Say goodbye to Motion band in their farewell party on Sep. 29 at Level 23 Nightspot. Motion band will be performing their favourite songs and buy one get one is applied on cocktails, beer, wine and selected spirits by bottle. Mojo is introducing a homemade soda selection during September. Enjoy a combination of fresh and pureed fruit with iced sparkling water and flavoured ice cubes. Flavours include raspberry, lychee and green guava. Priced at VND150,000++ Enjoy handmade moon cakes to celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival. Flavours include white lotus, black sesame, cranberry and pomelo. Choose from seven flavours to create a box of four, priced at VND980,000 per box. Available till Sep. 30. Celebrate Vu Lan festival at Li Bai and Saigon Café with vegetarian selections such as fried vegetarian shrimps with corn, snow pea, and braised tofu with vegetables and satay sauce. Available till Sep. 15. sheratonsaigon@sheraton.com THE DECK Their new weekend brunch menu includes ‘pick-me-up-cocktails’, late breakfast, seafood bar, from the grill, vegetarian, salads and sides. From 11am to 4pm. Extended happy hour from 9.30pm to 11.30pm until the end of September. www.thedecksaigon.com

herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes. Beefsteak Nam Son

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3930 3917 6am to 10pm Set down an alleyway in an outdoor courtyard with an additional indoor dining space, this well-known eatery specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak. Served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, you can add pate or an egg, all for well under VND100,000. Has a second restaurant at 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. English menu available.

BO NE LE HONG STEAK / BANH CUON 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 5106 11.30am to 22.30pm Stuffed down an alleyway close to the intersection of Huynh Van Banh and Le Van Sy, the bo ne offering at this fancooled, plastic stool eatery is one of the best in town. Served up sizzling with pate, fried egg, onions, chips and of course local beef, price-wise Le Hong remains very much a budget option. Is also known for its excellent banh cuon.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1, TEL: 3925 0935 www.comtamthuankieu.com.vn The multi-storey, downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery close to Cho Ray Hospital. Swathed in yellow and green and packed all day long, the fare here is everything com tam (bitty rice) - think suon nuong (barbecued pork), xiu mai (meatballs), thit heo quay (roasted pork), canh kho qua (bitter gourd broth) and muc don thit (squid stuffed with pork). Prices are cheap, too with the standard meal going for around VND30,000. Has an English menu.

NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3825 0261 www.namgiao.com 7.30am to 10pm Set down an alleyway opposite Ben Thanh market and surrounded by a bizarre plethora of hole-in-the-wall beauty salons, this pleasantly attired, long-running Huestyle eatery is known for its excellent bun bo-style soups and central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen and much more. All the mains go for under VND50,000. Has a second eatery on Suong Nguyet Anh.

PAPAYA RESTAURANT PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 10am to 10pm The work of the eponymous owner and head chef Chi Nghia, Papaya is one of the city's unsung gems. Tucked down a tangle of streets near the canal on the edge of District 1, the cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap, too, with mains going for well under VND100,000, and portions are also on the large side. Well worth a visit

PHAP HOA VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3839 5893 6am to 9pm If you desire service with a smile, avoid Phap Hoa. This vegetarian eatery is a truly functional place, with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with faux meat such tomato stuffed with pork and meat-filled cabbage rolls sitting alongside mushroom, tomato and tofu fare. It tastes good, too. Just don’t expect the staff to bat you more than an eyelid.

PHO HOA PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3829 7943 6am to midnight Everything at this famous but strikingly traditional pho joint is largesse. From the size of the portions through to the plates of banh quay and fresh herbs as well as the myriad of other accoutrements, it’s all double-sized. Fortunately looks don’t deceive and this distinctly southern version of Vietnam’s national dish tastes good, too. Choose from a range of cuts of beef and spice to taste. Gets busy so expect to share tables.

PHO 99 PHO / STEAK 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 2791 6am to 2.30am Although essentially one the city's better pho restaurants, putting Vietnam's most iconic dish in a pleasant aircon setting, the two-storey, late-night Pho 99 is also known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of local beef bought in Cu Chi. Served up with mushrooms, onions and fries, the dish goes for well under VND100,000 a go, and is one of the best beefy bargains in town. It tastes good, too.

QUAN HO GUOM HANOI STREET FOOD 177 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 9185 This local, chrome table-topped eatery may not look like much, but except for the addition of Saigonese-style fresh herbs it does some pretty tasty and authentic Hanoi street fare. Dishes include the moreish bun cha (rice noodles with barbecue pork), nem ran cua bien (deepfried crab spring rolls), bun mang ga (rice noodle chicken and bamboo shoots soup) and banh cuon thanh tri (wet rice paper rolls), all at budget prices. Also sells decent com binh dan (rice plate dishes) at lunchtime. No English menu.

SAIGON VEGAN VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3834 4473 7am to 2pm. 4pm to 10pm A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat. Furnished with dark rustic wooden tables and chairs, Japanese-style wooden carvings and tropical foliage on the terrace area outdoors, the specialities here are the hotpots and the daily specials. But the vegan menu runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes. Also has a range of sautéed fair.

TIN NGHIA VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3821 2538 7am to 2pm, 4pm to 9pm One of the city’s oldest eateries (it was established in 1925), this plain but charming holistic little venue located close to Ben Thanh Market also does some of the tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Cooked up without onions, garlic and MSG, the fare ranges from curry noodles and fried rice through to a tantalizing selection of non-faux méat tofu and mushroom dishes. It’s cheap, too, and the menu is also in English.

VIET CHAY VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3848 3399 www.vietchay.vn 7am to 9.30pm Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received plaudits aplenty thanks to its contemporary Buddhist, feng shui-inspired setting, almost reverent ambience and interesting menu. With a regular buffet (check for details), eight specialities are also on show from salted

tofu in claypot through to hundred flowers hotpot and Viet Chay spring rolls. Also sells a range of appetizers, vegetables, salads and creative mains.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

BARBECUE GARDEN VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3823 3340 www.barbecuegarden.com 11am to 11pm A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. Specialising in all things barbecue, the menu goes from western and Vietnamese appetizers and salads through to combos, a la carte meats and seafood, vegetarian options, desserts and a kids menu. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair so expect smoke and lots of fun, too. A great place for groups and parties.

CUC GACH QUAN MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to

a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh, the cuisine here is good, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients, together with a selection of more contemporary options.

HIGHWAY 4 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3602 2069 www.highway4.com 10am to 11.30pm The first Saigon version of the well-known Hanoi restaurant chain, Highway 4 is named after the six-thronged mountain highway that skirts the ChineseVietnamese border to the north. Serves up authentic Vietnamese cuisine and drink that reflects the ambience of the north and wider Vietnam, all set in a pleasant environment — the upstairs area has Asian-style, long-table, on the floor seating. Also does the excellent Son Tinhbranded rice wine liquors, with flavours ranging from plum to wild mountain apple.

HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. Also runs separate cooking classes.

sound & vision LAU XE LUA PAN ASIAN HOTPOT Ground Level, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 6111 A Japanese-style rotating conveyor belt restaurant that substitutes sushi and sashimi for hotpot, diners order their preferred broth – choosing from Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Thai style – each with their own individual pot. Customers can choose from an assortment of fresh ingredients, such as thinly sliced meat, fresh seafood and leafy vegetables, to be cooked on a high-tech electric panel, tailor-making their own dipping sauce by mixing and matching a selection of condiments.

LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt. Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

MAY RESTAURANT 5/2 Hoang Sa, Dakao, Q1 Tel: 3910 1277 May, meaning cloud in English, is a spacious Vietnamese restaurant opened by French-Italian-Vietnamese restaurateur, Thai Tu Tho. Decorated with 20th century Indochine in mind, the restaurant is spacious and situated in a villa in the heart of Dakao ward, has a touch of understated luxury about it, too. Utilizing homemade broths developed by Tu Tho’s father, the restaurant also uses authentic homemade recipes such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls.

NHA HANG NGON STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn 7am to 10pm A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a converted colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented and loved Vietnamese eateries. Specialising in pan-Vietnamese street food cooked up in a hygienic environment using quality ingredients, dishes cost between VND40,000 and VND100,000 each. Not surprisingly the place gets packed out with noisy diners, so best to book.

TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3829 9244 11.30am to 10.30pm Once a hotel for French Pondicherry Indian dignitaries visiting both old Saigon and the Hindu temple opposite, this converted floor of one of the city’s best-preserved buildings is home to the elegant, refined and atmospheric Temple Club. Serving quality cuisine from the three main regions of the country, impeccable presentation and the occasional modern twist makes this a great place to entertain. For the colonial setting, the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

TIB HUE / VIETNAMESE 187ter Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3829 7242 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Formerly owned by composer Trinh Cong Son, the local equivalent of Bob Dylan, this iconic, local institution mixes dark brown Hue-style, Indochine décor with sullen lighting, white tablecloths and a

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more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. The fare is all Imperial Hue — goi thanh tra, banh uot thit nuong, bun hen and much more. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

MID TO TOP BO LAC 3 (LOST COW 3) STEAKHOUSE 71/3 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 8023 www.lostartsaigon.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm If décor could have a voice of its own, here it would be loud, clear, sophisticated and very funky, such is the contemporary but very retro feel to this more recent addition to Alley Number 71. With a menu focusing on steaks, four cuts of either imported or locally produced beef are on offer, all served up with a range of sauces. For additional vegetables and sides, order separately.

CAFÉ IF 38 Dang Dung, Q1 Tel: 3846 9853 6am to 10pm Located in the grounds of a beautifully restored Indochina-French colonial villa, Café IF is completely non-smoking and offers a concise array of MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew for breakfast, while all lunch and dinner mains come with a choice of different meats and fish, cooked in various styles such as stir fry, hot pot and curry. Has a comprehensive selection of wines, cocktails and fresh fruit juice, too.

QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1 Tel: 3602 2241 / 01286 252351 7am to 10pm Popular with foreigners and Vietnamese, Quan Bui offers an extensive menu and reasonable prices. No MSG or sugar added and food is served in traditional pots/ crockery. This restaurant is worth visiting for its high quality food, chic black tables and inviting ambience. Western food also available but make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge.

NAM PHAN PAN-VIETNAMESE 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC Tel: 3933 3636 www.khaisilkcorp.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch This purpose-built, four-storey building is coated in greys, browns and creams mixed in with the Imperial architecture of Hue, Chinese imagery and Terracotta Army-style columns. All helps to create the perfect, eloquent atmosphere for fine dining in a Vietnamese context. The cuisine mixes well-known dishes from the various regions of Vietnam, all served up with a contemporary and welcome twist. Good wine list.

SOUND & VISION LISTINGS

GALLERIES

ARTS CLASSES 110 BOOKS & MAGAZINES 110 GALLERIES 111 LIVE MUSIC VENUES 112 PERFORMING ARTS 114 PRODUCTION COMPANIES 115

COLUMNS FOR THE RECORD 111 ROAD RULES 112 DECKS, DRUMS & ROCK & ROLL 114 BAND & DJ 115

ARTS CLASSES

drawing, figurative drawing and painting, and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

BETTER DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS www.BDPworkshops.com Tel: 090 2208 813 Photographer Peter Stuckings (Lonely Planet Images, Insight Guides) runs a monthly intensive class on how to get the best out of your digital camera, as well as what to do on your computer when you bring the photos home. Workshops are run over a weekend, and involve classroom time in District 1 as well as shooting at locations around town. Cost is $195/person, with discounts for early and multiple bookings.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780 www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults. Has a permanent exhibition at Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A new creative group invites new members every second Tuesday in the evening for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire. All levels are welcome from beginners to more experienced. Contact John by phone or e-mail.

VIN SPACE 4 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0983 377710 www.shyevin.com Vin’s Space is a cosy, intimate, light-filled space that offers artists of all kinds a quiet space to work individually and share ideas and perspectives. Runs various weekly classes, including oil painting,

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 6pm to 11pm An elegant, contemporary restaurant whose unique décor has influenced the design of so many other eateries in town, five years of operation has seen Xu evolve into a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare here ranges from the likes of banh cuon thit heo through to pork wanton, bun cha, seared beef crostini, bo luc lac and Xu-style chicken rice, all served up with a modern twist.

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NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

sound & vision from titles on Eastern Europe to East Timor and city guides through to maps. Also stocks non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, bills/coin collections and travel fiction.

BOOKS & MAGAZINES ARTBOOK 43 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3502 1559 www.artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. Not only are the products current, but they also cover areas from art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping. Magazine titles in stock include the likes of FutureArc, GA Houses and Landscape World. The back room doubles up as an art gallery.

FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 www.fahasasg.com.vn 8am to 10pm Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English, French, Chinese and Vietnamese. International best sellers, children’s books and toys and educational and professional textbooks are all available. Think the Vietnamese version of Waterstone’s or Borders and you’re somewhat close to understanding what this quality bookstore chain is all about.

FRENCH BOOKSHOP NAM PHONG 94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 7859 Set in a mixed colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallicrun bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications with a selection of second– hand Folio editions. Also stocks art books, coffee table books and French comics.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC) 2A Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 9650 www.pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City as well as other outlets throughout the country, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam. Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction on non-fiction as well as over 2,000 English language titles from publishers such as HarperCollins, Random House and Penguin — the fiction available ranges from classic and modern literature through to detective novels, horror, thriller and children’s books. If you’re looking for bestseller-list titles from overseas, this is the place to start your search.

SAHABOOK 175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6290 6599 www.sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, the travel titles here range

the brainchild of local artist Himiko Nguyen, has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things. Recent works include The Happening, a year-long project that sees a solo installation by a different artists showcased every fortnight until November 2011.

BLUE SPACE CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3821 3695 www.bluespacearts.com 9am to 5pm With its ochre walls and internal courtyard complete with a quaint bridge, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center is an attraction unto itself. Inside the 120sqm space, local expert Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia, from sculptures and luridly coloured abstract paintings to contemporary representations of timeless Vietnamese themes: village scenes, willowy girls in ao dais and water buffaloes in fields.

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 4441 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. The first floor displays changing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. Move one level up and the galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, featuring sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to various colonial rulers. The third floor exhibits older works from the first century AD through to the early 20th century. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement, accessed through the courtyard in the centre of the building.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878 317 (Ms. Mai) www.cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner on the outer reaches of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery (CTG) offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. CTG has been in operation since 2009 although its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade and has mentored a number of now well-known and highly regarded Vietnamese artists. CTG features primarily emerging and mid-career artists and has a regular schedule of exhibitions both at its main gallery space in District 1 and its satellite exhibition space in the Thao Dien Ward of District 2.

DUC MINH GALLERY 31C Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn 9am to 6pm Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock colonial mansion constitutes the private museum and art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Helpful and friendly English-speaking staff are on hand to guide you through the artists and styles of Vietnamese art on offer. Artists exclusive to the gallery include the twins Le Duc Hai and Le Ngoc Thanh plus Hoai Huong and Vu Thang. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to something approaching astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday Contemporary art gallery Galerie Quynh, initially promoting several of Vietnam’s pioneering abstract painters, now focuses on a wider international programme. In addition to working with a select group of artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of distinguished artists from around the world, allowing the local community and visitors access to a diverse range of contemporary art practice. Working with art spaces and curators internationally, the gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

PARTICULAR GALLERY Kim Do Business Center, 3rd Floor 123 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 8330 www.particulargallery.com 10am to 7pm Mon to Saturday Founded in 1999 with the objective of promoting contemporary Vietnamese art and providing support to young, up-andcoming Vietnamese artists. Various types of art displayed on different media include oil on canvas, lacquer on wood and paper works. The gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website. Specific paintings by Vietnamese artists can be acquired upon request.

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1366 129B Le Thanh Ton Q1 Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 9pm Established in 2004, these two galleries focus on the contemporary art works of both fledgling and experienced Vietnamese artists from across the country. Works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu are displayed and an eclectic range of styles is featured, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism. Mediums mainly feature lacquer on wood and oils on canvas, although some silk paintings are available.

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 www.san–art.org 9.30am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space and reading room dedicated to the exchange and cultivation of contemporary art in Vietnam. It also aims to support the country’s artist community by creating opportunities that provide exhibition space, residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON

TUDO GALLERY

324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) www.himikokoro.com 8am to 10.30pm Monday to Sunday A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes. Open for five years, this cafe-cum-gallery,

53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware,

for the record DAN DEACON — AMERICA "It's weird how people hate getting older. People love mountains, and mountains are old as f**k. They are the oldest thing there are." — Dan Deacon, from July 2012 Pitchfork interview DAN DEACON TURNED 30 ON Aug. 28, the same date this album dropped. It's a weird age, but he's trying to embrace it. What that means for the patron saint of noflag-no-country youth, only time will tell. The cover of America can only be a good sign: a sun-washed meadow rolling into lakes and hills — America's good side. It's printed on a flag that ships with online CD purchase, and one that flaps in animated GIF form on the Youtube posting of the first single, Lots. The A-side is the ecstatic diamond grinder pop Deacon specialises in, the NES cartridge-onfire barnburners, the hummingbird breaths pulled tight and thin, the twinkling beats. The B-side is a four track tour of the land Deacon's travelled by rail and biotuned school bus, skirting corporate deserts for psychedelic ones. It's a warts-andall look at the US, and an eventual reconciliation with the land itself.

Take a Walk Deacon's music is evolving, from 4am no-work-tomorrow escapism into something that can face our world more evenly, and see enough good that it can participate. It

eschews the Monsanto anger of his last for something more pointed and universal. Take True Thrush, a lovely, soaring account of identity confusion, made easier by a corporate desire for sameness. It's the first video off this album, a joy-filled romp through a game of gestural telephone. The broke-beat exhilaration caterwauls through successive pairs tacking up frivolous doodles, doing a jaunty step or two as they circle each other, kicking paper, getting soaked by a bucket of water. In Deacon's perfect world, even the same actions have a second dimension to them, an individuality and a spiritual thrill that balances the footsteps we're all walking in. It's the power of sound, people, closeness. It's vibration. It's what he urges people toward in concert, coaxing lyrics and having strangers grasp the heads of strangers and rub little pleasing circles into the base of their necks. It's what he brought to the city of Baltimore — every bit as tangled as The Wire makes it out to be — in godfathering the bikesand-warehouse DIY nerve centre Wham City. It's that little piece of the mountain he brings to us. — Ed Weinberg

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sound & vision

road

and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city artists. It aims to promote the works of contemporary Vietnamese artists to domestic and foreign art appreciators.

Rules

ZEROSTATION

Pat Joynt, of Saigon Scooter Centre, has been in Vietnam for 15 years, and working in the scooter and motorcycle industry for 30 years, restoring classic bikes, importing and producing parts. To ask Pat a question about your motorbike, email roadrules@wordhcmc.com

288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 www.zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and long-term art project managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy. With a small installation room and two beds, artists can also participate in ZeroStation’s art residency programme.

LIVE MUSIC VENUES ACOUSTIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Tel: 3930 2239 7pm until late Though only 1km from the heavily touristic downtown area, Acoustic is well off most foreigner’s radars. The allVietnamese house band performs every night, playing mostly western covers, and the space is perpetually jammed with young locals either bopping away in the crowd or getting up on stage. Known for being notoriously busy at the weekends, arrive by 7.30pm to stand any chance of getting a seat. Those with a love for heartfelt rock balladry and heavy rock n’ roll should check this place out on Friday nights. Has occasional guest bands from overseas.

BAR BUI 39/2 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3824 1963 lodgebui@gmail.com 10am to 12am Also known as Dust Lodge, Bar Bui resembles Seventeen Saloon with its red and blue neon lighting, bricked walls, wooden roof, columns and beams. It hosts live flamenco and country music every night from 8.30pm courtesy of three Filipino house bands.

Hi Pat, How do I get vinyl stickers off without hurting the paint? This shouldn’t be a difficult job unless the stickers have been lacquered over or if the bike has been protected with a laminated finish which many bike shops do in an attempt to protect the paint. If the stickers are just applied directly on to top of the paint the easiest way is to just slowly peel them off. You’ll certainly be left with some marks and glue residue probably, but if you pick up some local auto polish like Cana then you can easily polish these marks out. If the stickers have been on for a long time then you may be left with discolouration from the sun in the area where the stickers have been. The only way around this is to respray the area.

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BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

stairs, a small cavernous-type entrance and an interior highlighted by rough rock walls, wood beams and candle-lit beer keg tables.

JARDIN D’AMOUR 8Bis Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 6679 2406 9am to 11pm A quirky, French-style café with a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Each evening from 8.30pm the self-titled ‘Garden of Love’ houses live music with different themes such as Tien Chien Night (pre-war Vietnamese music), International Covers Night and Lovers Night. The stage is a quaint miniature theatre-style set up with white picket fencing and a painted backdrop of a garden positioned next to a tiny raised balcony where a pianist serenades customers every Monday night. Romantic ballads can be heard every Tuesday and rock every Friday.

LA HABANA

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com Saigon cover band stalwarts Carmen & Brothers play an eclectic selection of well known hits by the likes of Michael Jackson, Leona Lewis and Bon Jovi every night of the week except Mondays. The music usually starts at 9pm but arrive early to ensure prime seating in the lounge.

METALLIC BAR

41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: 3930 3154 www.metallicbar.com 9pm to 1am A popular destination for both locals and foreigners with a hankering for live rock music and a totally smokefree atmosphere, Metallic Bar is one of Saigon’s most established live music

venues. Longtime house band, The Yellow, a host of Filipino singers and numerous local Vietnamese bands can be seen rocking out to ferocious covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and CCR on a nightly basis between 9pm and 12am before a DJ takes to the decks to perform a selection of contemporary dance, hip hop and r n’ b tunes through to the early hours.

NAPOLY BAR 7 Pham Ngoc Thanh, Q3, Tel: 3829 0583 www.napolybar.com 7pm until 12am Named after the famed southern Italian city, the ground floor seating of this popular and somewhat upscale café looks and feels like it came straight out of Italy itself. The upstairs bar in the back is the place to catch local Vietnamese band Quoc Anh play classic 1980s hits every night from 9pm to midnight.

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon 7pm till late Tuesday to Sunday One of Saigon’s chicest venues with some of the most awe-inspiring views of the city, this hotel bar offers nightly live music (except on Mondays) from 9pm courtesy of the multinational sextet Motion. Expect a bit of everything from r&b, dance and jazz to hip-hop, rap and rock.

PACHARAN

97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 6024 9am to midnight Wednesdays and Fridays are the nights to catch local favourites such as cover band circuit legend Juram, and latin pop group Warapo. Juram is known for his gravelvoiced versions of anthems by Nirvana, Pink Floyd and Metallica, while Warapo serve up a very physical offering live and

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 8am to 1am This sleekly designed café morphs into a trendy live music nightspot with a selection of resident and guest DJs to be found behind the Sarato-programmed decks. Expect a multitude of electronic sounds, from deep and liquid house to lounge, disco, chill out, hip-hop and a bevy of instrumentals you’ve heard before but can’t quite put your finger on.

CACOPHONY

Hi Pat, I bought a Honda Wave for very cheap but it didn't have any paper work with it? Is it possible to create papers for them at the motor vehicle dept? This is very difficult unless you at least have a copy of the original ownership paper. If you have a copy or even a contact of the last registered keeper then you would need to contact them to arrange a replacement. This must be done by the owner as shown on the card and without knowing the last

official owner it’s not possible. The local police would not give out this information either. If the card has been lost and the owner can be tracked down then they would first need to arrange a police report to say the paperwork had been lost. When they have this then they could re-apply for a replacement card as long as they have an ID such as an ID card, driving licence and/or family book. This usually takes about two weeks.

57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 9am to 11pm This unique establishment sets itself apart from other live music venues in Saigon as the city’s first 3D-themed café. Each floor of this French-colonial three-storey villa has been designed as a homage to both Sagionese and Hanoian street café culture. The ground floor is where the live music happens every Wednesday to Sunday from 9pm to 11pm with pop, rock and country sets performed by the growing plethora of local bands.

CARMEN 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3829 7699 6pm to 1am The inspiration for Carmen is the popular opera named, naturally, Carmen. In place of European leads are the musical talents of a local band as well as Filipino and Vietnamese lead singers crooning to Latin beats. As if being a venue built on Flamenco music was not enough to stand out in Saigon, it further differentiates itself with a cabin-like exterior, steep

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decks, drums & rock n' roll

sound & vision exotic Cuban salsa music.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR

25C Tu Xuong, Q3 Formerly Tadao Coffee Bar, the promoters behind RockFanClub, the long-running underground Vietnamese hard rock and metal night, have moved in, finally giving the city’s moshers a home of their own. Local hard rock and metal bands can be found playing every night of the week from around 9pm at this tiny yet comfortable and cool venue.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR 9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 11am to 2am Cuban bands are a mainstay at this outdoor bar with salsa band Warapo providing a musical melting pot of South American rhythms every Tuesday as part of the hotel’s Havana Ladies Night, while the six-piece Luna Negra like to mix it up with salsa, bachata and merengue on Wednesdays through to Mondays. Both bands start at 9pm.

With a decade of DJing under his belt, Rich Mundy shares some words with Lyra Dacio about music and the big cheese RICH, A FEW WORDS ABOUT YOURSELF PLEASE When I first started DJing, the scene around me was basically mainstream hip-hop and so for me to find music that I was really passionate about I would take the two hour drive up to the big city, San Francisco, to find the underground house and techno nights. Did the raves, saw the likes of Paul Van Dyk and tapped my foot to a beat in basements below pop clubs. HOW DID YOU DISCOVER SAIGON? I am from Aptos, California which is a small beach town south of San Francisco. I first came to Vietnam during Tet in 2005 with an exgirlfriend and I really loved it here. I came back again in 2006 for a one-month trip, alone, and now six years later I am still here. WHAT’S IN YOUR PLAYLIST? Music is always evolving with time and also depends on when I am playing. Obviously, if it were early in the morning at my house it would be much different than, if at a fully packed club. I enjoy playing my own unique style of club music. Basically, stuff that makes me wanna move and have fun. DO YOU PLAY ANY INSTRUMENT? I enjoy playing the bagpipes, but mostly for the awesome outfit that comes along with it. Some day I

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hope to master the accordion. WHERE CAN WE HEAR YOUR MUSIC? You can catch me weekly at Cloud 9 and I frequently play at other spots around the city such as Blanchy’s Tash and Bootleg DJ Cafe. HOW DID THE SAIGON MUSIC SCENE EVOLVE? When I first came to Vietnam things were very limited in terms of a ‘scene’, however, nowadays it’s not the case. Things are really changing in this city and I feel it’s an exciting time for both the DJs and those who seek quality entertainment. I think the guys from both Lush and Blanchy’s Tash are doing a great job of bringing in big international DJs such as Grandmaster Flash, Stanton Warriors, DMC World Champion DJ Vajra, and Danny Rampling. Also, more of the Vietnamese producers are becoming more inspired by new styles of music which is also helping Saigon get a much needed transformation. I think the city will soon be a regular place for international DJs and artists to spot at on their Asian tours. ANY PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? Besides winning some sort of super lottery? I plan to continue spreading my style of music around Vietnam and Asia, some more traveling and eat a Black Cat “Big Cheese” on my own.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3914 0007 www.seventeensaloon.co.vn 7pm until late A favourite among both Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this Wild West-themed bar doubles up as a great live music venue with no less than three highly talented Filipino cover bands rocking

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox 1 and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3862 2425 www.cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 3775 2521 www.lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: 3849 4567 www.galaxycine.vn

out nightly. B & U, Wild West and Most Wanted impressively belt out like-for-like hits by rock staples such as Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses’ while pumping Vietnamese techno blasts out of the speakers in between sets.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH HOUSE

+ 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com 9am to 12am Those in search for a sound of the familiar will find solace at one of Saigon’s longest running bars. A different cover band gets up every night of the week (except Mondays) at this pub-like Celtic establishment. Celtic Band knock out jovial Irish ditties on Tuesdays; the classic rock power of Risky Red and Mr. Bo can be heard on Wednesdays and Fridays; Wonderluster play pop hits on Thursdays, and rollicking Japanese blues group, 12 Bar Blues take over on the weekends.

VASCO’S

74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12am (weekdays). Open late on weekends. With two rooms set up to cater to bands and DJs (Yellow Room & Blue Room), Vasco’s is one of Saigon’s most prominent live music venues. Catering mainly to the musical tastes of muso expats, the likes of DJ Premier, Free The Robots, Handsome Furs and Daedelus have headlined this former opium den. Local DJs such as Jordan Howard and DJ Jase regularly put on nights with hip-hop, dubstep, drum n’ bass, reggae and dance firmly on rotation. Local expat latin-punk band Bad Neighbour also plays on most Friday nights.

YOKO 22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 0577 8am until late As the name suggests, John Lennon's wife inspired the name of this excellent bar. Refurbished and expanded in 2011, Yoko is undoubtedly one of the coolest and most unique venues in Saigon, hosting live music nightly from some of the city's best local musicians and bands, including 6789, Microwave and Coconuts. Expect classic rock, jazz, funk, country, metal, grunge, blues and everything else in-between. An unmissable destination for grassroots and underground music lovers.

PERFORMING ARTS HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 7419, www.hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING

IDECAF

WI-FI

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 5451 www.idecaf.gov.vn

NON-SMOKING AREA

MEGASTAR CINEMA

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 0088 www.megastar.vn

DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Shows feature both national and international stars, and take place in one of the most elegant buildings in the city. There are two annual seasons: Spring through summer (January to June) and autumn through winter (July to December), featuring performances every 9th and 19th monthly. Tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC 112 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre is the perfect place for classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to other performance groups in the city. Also provides music education in undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels for the southern region of Vietnam. There are two concert rooms (500 seats and 100 seats) with two performances weekly. To obtain a programme of events, visit the Opera House.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn www.hcmcchoir.com This well–established 40–strong choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3. The Choir’s repertoire includes classic works by Bach, Beethoven, Handel, and Verdi as well as songs from musicals, traditional songs from Britain, Christmas carols in many languages, gospel songs, and national and European Anthems.

SAIGON PLAYERS www.saigonplayers.com saigonplayers@gmail.com A non-profit community theatre group whose mission is to uphold the arts while giving to charity. Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights at 7.30pm every first Wednesday of the month at La Habana and script nights at 7.30pm every third Wednesday of the month at venues alternating between Boomarang Bistro Saigon in Q7 and Geisha's Tea House in Q1.

PRODUCTION COMPANIES CREA TV 339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 7434 www.crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Facilities are located at Thanh Da Island and include two studios (400m2 and 150m2) as well as in-house post-production. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisations and permits, art department, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS 91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10 Tel: 0908 477079 www.factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films is a diverse, creative, bespoke production company built on broad film and media experience. Their team has developed and delivered content worldwide and specialises in TVCs, documentary, web and TV content with vast experience in all stages of production from development through to post production and delivery.

BAND & DJ LISTINGS BAD NEIGHBOUR claualehm@hotmail.com Bad Neighbour plays a combination of Latin and rock with some reggae and rap thrown into the mix. A multinational outfit with nine members, Bad Neighbour can be seen performing on Fridays at Hard Rock Café. BOB WITTENBACH (BONGO BOB) Tel: 0903 193241 Ex-professional rock, blues, jazz and pop drummer from London who has played with various artists including John Otway, The Breaks and The Scaffold. Has played many gigs in Saigon with Mike Belmes, Curtis King and Juram, among others. Looking to hook up with like-minded blues/rock musicians interested in bringing an Asian feel to Western themes. CARMEN & BROTHERS LIVE Acoustic Band carmenandbrothers@yahoo.com facebook.com/lahabanasaigon La Habana’s famous Filipino house band captivates audiences most nights of the week with Carmen’s extraordinary vocal range and an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary pop, r&b, retro, latin, rock and ballads CURTIS KING BAND Tel: 0908 339405 www.curtiskinglive.com A funky, bluesy, travelling rock ‘n’ roll band with an east-meets-west sound. Founded in 1996, the band has performed all over the world and has been featured on MTV, the BBC, China Central Television, XoneFM Radio and HTV. Having recorded four albums, the band can be caught playing throughout Vietnam and the region. Available for weddings, corporate, embassy, consulate or chamber of commerce events. DJ AJAM http://djajam.podomatic.com Vasco’s resident DJ Ajam (UK) available for private parties, clubs, bars and versatile in any style of music. With 17 years of DJing experience, Ajam has played at venues worldwide including the worlds number one club brand Pacha. Now teaching private DJ classes to all ages. DJ equipment and sound system for rent. DJ JORDAN HOWARD Tel: 01223 447721 whitfield@jordanhoward.net American DJ specialising in eclectic mixes of 1980s, pop, rock, and hip-hop to audiences of all ages and nationalities. A Vasco's veteran of three years, Jordan has played many balls and corporate events around Vietnam. DMA: DIGITAL MUSIC AGENCY 380/13B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3843 6459 (ask for Ms. Nhi) www.dma.vn DMA is the first international DJ training centre in Vietnam. Run by professional local and overseas DJs, DMA offers

training programmes and job opportunities for those wanting to become professional DJs or looking to learn for pleasure. DMA uses the latest professional DJ equipment and software, and doubles up as an events company and talent agency. EVERYONE’S A DJ everyonesadjvietnam@gmail.com www.everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com One of the top and longest running indie electro, 80s new wave, 50/60s dance parties in Saigon. Its concept is simple: to create a party with a DIY aesthetic heavily rooted in art, film, and design. Fronted by superkid, the parties occur monthly with rotating DJs and VJs. GILLES SNOWCAT (FROM AWAKEN) www.awaken.be, awamail@hellokitty.com Awaken’s Gilles Snowcat is in Saigon looking to join forces with musicians who don’t want to play it safe in order to make his magnetic soul music caress the eared need apply. JURAM GAVERO TRIO juramgavero@hotmail.com Juram has been playing around the city for the last 12 years, and is now one of the most popular acts in Ho Chi Minh City. His blend of eclectic music styles gathered from his experiences around the world stand him in good stead to make you enjoy your evening any night of the week. MARK “MR. JOLLY” JOLLY Tel: 0918 119987 With over 20 years DJing experience and close to a decade playing in Vietnam, Mr Jolly can cover pretty much any musical situation from private parties to the largest club and corporate events. Can play a wide range of musical styles despite having very little hair. RISKY RED rickreid@vnn.vn Either a three-piece acoustic light rock combo or a six piece full-on rock ‘n’ roll, blues and boogie, party Band. Regular around Saigon. THE WANDERLUSTER Tel: 0122 3022 262 davis@wanderlustersvn.com The Wanderlusters are an acoustic, vocally inspired band, outfitted with traditional blurgrass instruments, that plays American roots music. Influenced by country, bluegrass, rock, folk, gospel, and blues, The Wanderlusters play your favourite hillbilly soul songs. WARAPO BAND Tel: 0933 067752 warapo.production@gmail.com This high-energy seven piece Cuban band brings the sensuality and the passion from the Carribbean. Their music is a unique blend of styles ranging from salsa, merengue, cha cha, reggaeton and pop that’s ideal for events and private parties.

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LEISURE & WELLNESS

LISTINGS

LEISURE AMUSEMENT 116 BASKETBALL 116 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 116 COOKING CLASSES 116 CRICKET 116 DANCING 116 FITNESS 116 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 118 GOLF 118 LEISURE - GENERAL 119 SPORTS CLASSES 119 TENNIS 119

LEISURE

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

VIETNAMESE CLASSES 120 YOGA & MEDITATION 120 WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 121 COSMETIC SURGERY 122 DENTAL 122 HAIRDRESSERS 122 MEDICAL 123 PHARMACIES 124 SALONS 124 SPAS 124

SAIGON EXPATS

AMUSEMENT DAI NAM THEME PARK Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 384 5845 6:30am to 5:30pm A mammoth of a place, the superkitsch Dai Nam is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. Just 50km from Ho Chi Minh City past Thu Dau Mot on Highway 13, the amusement park rides include two huge roller coasters, an excellent go kart track, dodgems, kiddy’s bouncy castles and much more. Then there's the well set-up water park, a non-cringe worthy zoo modeled on its counterpart in Singapore, a 5000 sqm temple and the cultural area. Well worth the VND50,000 ticket price.

LASER TAG 5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun. Hand over VND40,000 and you’re in for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun. The gaming area is a little on the small side but the equipment all functions well, and you’re provided with a fun and alternative leisure activity. A collection of arcade games can be found in foyer.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTQANICAL GARDENS 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3829 3728 www.saigonzoo.net 7am to 5pm At less than VND10,000 for entry, Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical gardens is a great option for a day out in the city. Dating back to 1875, Saigon has one of the oldest zoos in the world, which makes it a famous site not only for the Vietnamese. You can get lost amongst the many rare orchids, ornamental plants in the garden or marvel at over one hundred species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Some of the enclosures don’t meet western standards so the wary should steer clear.

BASKETBALL PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB 8 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

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kurtislaw@best.com.vn A basketball night at Saigon South International School every Thursday, open to anyone who wants to play or watch. Call Kurtis Law on 01265 638 486 to secure an invitation.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM www.ilvietnam.com This long–established social organisation fosters social contacts for women in the city and currently has a membership of 500 women from 42 nations. The group offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Meetings are held at 10am every Thursday at the Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur, Q3. Membership for the first year costs VND700,000; annual renewal is VND500,000.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB 628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3898 9000 www.parklandvn.com 6am to 10pm Opened in 2003 the Parkland Country Club offers a green retreat from the frenetic city with its 2-hectare space in An Phu. The club is able to organise a wide range of activities such as wine tasting and sports tournaments due to its extensive facilities, which include three different dining options, supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, 3 tennis courts, squash courts, a lap and fun pool, spa and premier gyms. Monthly memberships are VND3.5 million.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonatownclub.com 6am to 10pm Up and running since May 1998, Sedona Town Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide private sanctuary from the busy streets. Amongst the attractions are the club’s recreational facilities, which include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi. Members can benefit from the secretarial support service on offer as well as the alfresco dining option offered poolside at the ‘Coco Cabana’. The lush garden adjacent to this outside eatery provides a great option for kicking back with a cocktail. A 3-month membership will set you back VND4 million.

leisure & wellness COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: 3820 9734 www.overlandclub.jp A Japanese home cooking class that meets every Sunday afternoon from 1.305pm. Run by a Japanese pottery artist, Overland Club also organises pottery classes, Vietnamese-Japanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating papers and multinational cuisine days. The club is open to all nationalities and ages.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com Learn how to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local fine dining specialists Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients and the preparation of three tasty local dishes. Some tricks of the trade and the chance to sample the fruits of your labour afterwards also feature. A seasonal desert wraps things up nicely. Courses run from Tuesday to Sunday with two sessions per day from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. The class is VND800,000 for adults and VND500,000 for children.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3827 0349 www.vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com Established in 1999, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy. Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa 15 minutes from the city centre, the course caters to all skill levels. An introduction to a traditional Vietnamese kitchen and cooking utensils is an added bonus as well as a trip to a central food market. For VND800,000 per person you can attend their morning course from 9.30am to 1pm or the afternoon course from 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Meals included.

CRICKET SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations – Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka – as well as a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club (UCC). New recruits are welcome. The teams play on weekends at RMIT and have regular practice sessions. The season starts every October.

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)

Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, An Phu.

Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 Suhard.amit@yahoo.com

DIAMOND HEALTH CLUB

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Mobile: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

DANCING DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung Tel: 3519 4490/4340 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio available online.

LATIN STREET DANCE Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday at Geisha's Coffee and Tea House (2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1). It's individual dancing (no partnering) and you just need to buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate. Contact fred@ salsaaigon.com.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 www.saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to their studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”. Scheduling information is available online.

SAIGON SWING CATS www.saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday at Caffe Molinari (Petrohouse Tower, 5 Le Duan, Q1).

FITNESS

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA

Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 Samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY 14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 A 750m2 space that offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA and kid’s basic martial art classes as well as private fitness, bodybuilding and cardio conditioning. Come to get into shape, take out stress or learn a new sport with foreign instructors. Open to everyone from kids to adults and beginners to professionals.

LA COCHINCHINE Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 1812 www.lacochinchine.net This new colonial–themed gym is a large, open–plan space, situated on the top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, loads of cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms. Also offers classes. Peak membership starts at VND2.2 million per month.

NTFQ2 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq@nutrifort.com Has a strong focus on fitness classes and personal training. Besides an excellent weights and cardio area, the facility runs group classes including power yoga, Pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. The centre also contains a spa and a restaurant serving up calorie– calibrated meals to help members stay in line with individual fitness programmes.

PAUL SIMOS www.paulsimos.com paul@paulsimoshealthcoach.com Tel: 01286 305 982 Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul has studied all major dietary theories and uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them. Contact Paul for a free health history consultation.

PATRICK NGUYEN Tel: 093 815 6865 www.corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial arts trainer with 14 years of fitness

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON)

Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise programmes, weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports. Services include fitness and nutrition assessment.

Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) www.aissportscentre.com With a 25m swimming pool, Astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay in shape. Memberships start at VND10 million per year and are payable in advance or semi–annual installments. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

COUNTRY TEAMS: ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

JOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR

AIS SPORTS CENTRE

Queen Ann Building, 28–30–32 Le Lai, Q1 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring state–of–the– art equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes such as Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance, Body Combat and more.

VCA (VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION)

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found at this leading department store. Off–peak membership from VND1.7 million per month.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE 64A Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Taebo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. Membership to the small professional fitness studio costs VND1.8 million per month, or just VND1.3 million per month for a one–year membership. Drop–in sessions cost VND300,000. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room to help you unwind after a work out.

19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool. Monthly membership costs VND3.2 million.

CYRIL AND YOU-BODY AND MIND CO LTD Tel: 0947 771326 www.cyril-and-you.com Nutritional advice and personalised programmes for body toning. Fitness at the BoatHouse in An Phu at 8.30am on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Also offers “Cyril & You Urban Fitness”, teaching children’s boxing, and fitness and cardio boxing for girls at Top Floor, 49

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leisure & wellness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California. Certified by the National Sports Academy Of Medicine and a certified Sivananda yoga instructor trained by Green Path Yoga.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. A good place to take time out at the pool–side bar. Costs VND400,000 a day or VND2.2 million a month.

SAIGON FITNESS CO. New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 www.saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool. Standard monthly membership starts from VND4.5 million while a day pass goes for VND450,000. Special yearly memberships and family offers available.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR Tel: 01225 811 080 www.sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano is qualified in mat work and Pilates equipment, and offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs and schedule.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 Membership costs VND12 million for six months and VND21 million for a year

leisure & wellness at this small but well–equipped gym. Equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness – Vietnam’s second largest gym. Memberships gives free access to regular fitness classes and involves a one-time free entry, plus monthly subscription.

STEPHANE LAPORTE, FITNESS COACH Tel: 0908 897 604 www.personaltrainers.asia Stephane Laporte is a certified personal trainer and sports massage therapist. Take a free assessment and receive a tailored goal-driven fitness and nutrition programme to get you in the shape you want to achieve. Programmes include pre/post-race preparation and therapy, triathlon coaching, corrective and functional exercises, weight loss/gain, TRX, Kettlebells and Capoeira as well as many other services.

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking The Crescent complex’s lagoon, this multi-purpose and organically designed fitness and wellness centre offers an array of modern facilities. A state-of-the-art gym fitted out with the latest Technogym equipment allows users to track their progress with personalised keys, while other features include group fitness classes, yoga sessions, a squash

court, swimming pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

THE LANDMARK CLUB

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext. 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Call for further information.

astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years. Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Equipped with technologically advanced equipment, large cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, this gym has spacious changing facilities with sauna and steam rooms, three group class studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, Step Aerobics and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL www.vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in both Saigon (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT University, Q7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age, preferred sport or ability, all are warmly invited to become an active part of an inclusive Club. Contact Nick on 0937 683 230.

SAIGON RAIDERS jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams in the nearby provinces. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent for weekly training sessions and matches. Contact Jon Hoff.

tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7, Tel: 5411 2001 Visitors’ green fees are VND400,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course behind FV hospital. Fees discounted by 40% on Wednesdays. On the driving range, a basket of 50 balls costs VND60,000. Equipment hire is also available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756 660, www.songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city. Individual memberships cost VND38 million or VND63 million per year.

saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social touch rugby is played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT University from 4pm. The Saigon Geckos welcome both men and women of all nationalities to join and enjoy a few beers afterwards. Does regular tours of the region for tournaments, as well as inviting visiting teams for ladies’ touch rugby, contact rugby and men’s over–35 contact rugby. Beginners welcome.

Long Thanh My Village, Q9, Tel: 6280 0101 www.vietnamgolfcc.com Also known as the Thu Duc Golf Course, this facility just off Highway 1 has two courses, one following a more Asian style, and one with distinctly modern touches. Both 18–hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

SAIGON SAINTS www.saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

GOLF

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

LADIES’ FIRST GOLF

www.gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes football enthusiasts looking for

www.ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

LEISURE – GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS www.saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long–established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Also offers walking trails too. Bus leaves from the Caravelle Hotel at 2pm every Sunday.

PUSH CLIMBING 67/1 Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung Tel: 01264 722 134 www.pushclimbing.com Push Climbing is Ho Chi Minh City’s and Vietnam’s first dedicated bouldering climbing gym and pro shop. Located in District 7, the gym is open seven days a week and there are facilities for storing bicycles and gear. Drinks and snacks are also available, as well as a comfy area for people to relax after tackling the various routes.

RAINBOW DIVERS Buddha Bar, 7 Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 0913 408146 www.divevietnam.com Diving courses & trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu. Operates PADI–National Geographic Dive Centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 members, including Japanese, American, Canadian and Taiwanese players. Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE www.thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts club, which runs a competitive league for 14 pub–based teams. Check out the website for details on how to get involved and to see the recent 180 scores.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE www.saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball. Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

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SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball@gmail.com A friendly mixed netball league, running on Monday nights, is open to both men and women from the ages of 8 years old and upwards (including an adults competition). If you are interested in playing, whether as a team or an individual, please contact The Shooters by email.

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the squash court. For new players or those without a partner, there is a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets can be rented and balls are provided inclusive. Book in advance. Day rate is VND250,000 for use of all facilities.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to noon. Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James (Tornados HC) on 0938 889 899 or Rina at rinabakher@ yahoo.com.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 3pm to 5pm. For information how to get involved call David Jensen on 0909 458 890 or Tino Tran on 0903 042 014.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: 6210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 2. Prices start at VND170,000 for a group pass of four, with a two-hour safety course costing VND500,000.

SPORTS CLASSES CAPOEIRA 25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail.com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance. Held near the zoo, lessons begin at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and at the same time on Fridays at DanCenter. Admission is VND70,000 for one session or VND250,000 for four sessions.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY Tel: 7303 1100 www.saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

TENNIS KY HOA II 796 Su Van Hanh, Q10, Tel: 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH INTERNATIONAL TENNIS COURT 291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club. You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour, and all gear (including a ball boy) is available for rent.

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leisure & wellness VIETNAMESE CLASSES PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency. VND220,000 per hour.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDEIS – SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern & southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities. Private lessons are VND250,000 per hour, group classes for 3 or more people are VND160,000 per person.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6678 0914/ 0979 654487 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

YOGA & MEDITATION DR. SHIVA shivaprakashyoga@yahoo.com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City for the last two years in a variety of locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. His yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga. Available to conduct personal, group sessions, health seminars and workshops.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA Tel: 0909 648193, www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

MY YOGA EXERCISE Tel: 0128 630 5982, www.myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation. Also offers tropical Hatha yoga. Private sessions and group classes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 35149009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon’s luxury state-of-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week at varied times in a specifically designed soft floored studio. A host of certified, experienced international

and local practitioners whose styles include Ashtanga, Power Yoga, Hatha and also Pilates classes.

SAIGON YOGA Tel: 090 835 2265, www.saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a registered "Experienced Instructor" through Yoga Alliance. Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats & Trainings.

SHRI YOGA STUDIO 54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 5347 / 0913 764 776 www.shriyogavietnam.com Newly opened yoga studio focusing on Ashtanga Yoga and suitable for all levels; basic, intermediate and advanced. Prenatal and postnatal classes also available. Classes are held in both English and Vietnamese with internationally certified instructors in cooperation with Tirisulayoga Singapore. Scheduled 200-hour teacher training courses (RYT200) are available throughout the year.

STAR FITNESS GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0255 www.starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym. Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non– member prices.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 3920 5813 www.soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in high-quality yoga training and yoga retail products, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and other classes with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally produced yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Also offers 30 per cent off yoga class passes and memberships on first day of every month.

VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP saigongompa@gmail.com www.saigon-gompa.org Meditation group using specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

secretary-general of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and nonVietnamese speakers.

WELLNESS

VIVACOLOUR

8 Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and an American-educated and licensed doctor of physical therapy speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, sports injury rehabilitation, and manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2 Lotus Road 28, Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailored-made relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available. Contact Pascaline for more information.

YOGA ANUPA STUDIO 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.anupa.net/yoga-anupa The Yoga Anupa Studio is a place where students practice yoga in classes limited to four students with highly qualified teachers who can assist students and also adjust classes based on the group's needs. A busy schedule of Kandalini, Sivananda, Hatha Flow, Yin, Ashtanga and Power as well as many other types of yoga is available throughout the week. Healthy drinks, breakfast and lunches are also organized to take back to work after class.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE Tel: 01266 626467 www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM

CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT Family Medical Practice, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com www.saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with a Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Care 1, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com www.saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including

Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735 833 (Thuy) www.yogaliving.com.vn Conducting over 150 commercial and private classes a month, daily offers are Ashtanga based Hath yoga, Vinyasa yoga and Sivananda and classical yoga classes. A larger second studio equipped with six classrooms and 14 shower rooms in the centre of the city provides a great space for a yoga workshop, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com.vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc,

YOGA SANTI 269/3 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 2110 www.yogasanti.com Operating to create an oasis of peace in Saigon, Yoga Santi strives to provide thoughtful and challenging classes for students of all levels while offering a variety of styles ranging from athletic to gentler classes. All teachers have received international training and are well versed in instructing Hatha yoga, Vinyasa yoga, Yin yoga, Hatha flow and Sivananda yoga.

YMC – YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3929 1707 www.ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes of different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow. VND400,000 for a one-week trial.

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leisure & wellness acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, and special treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular etc), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders. Dr Kim has studied TCM in Korea and China and speaks Korean, Chinese and some English. A Vietnamese translator is also available.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE 273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy – the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system. English–speaking Dr. Le Hung can address all your needs in these areas.

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY – DAVID TRUONG TAN Tel: 0903 098 124 www.osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

SARAH MARTIN Tel: 0937 442 516 www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu. Home visits available.

THETA HEALING Tel: 0918 591 933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information or to book a session call or email Jodie on jodieastwood@gmail.com.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599, vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture - alternative fields of health care that focus on correcting energy misbalance by combining the energy of colour and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for, but not limited to, muscular and joint pain, stress, sleep issues, jetlag, and tailormade programmes for body revitalization, mood boosting, and to stop smoking.

leisure & wellness Other areas focus on treating asthma, ear infections, and general light children’s medical issues, as well as cosmetic problems such as skin wrinkling and sun spot removal. Contact Pascaline for more information.

COSMETIC SURGERY CAO THANG AESTHETIC CENTRE 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn A range of eye and aesthetic procedures are available at this modern hospital. With state-of-the-art devices, services include laser vision correction, cataract surgery, hi-myopia treatment, Botox anti-wrinkle treatment, dermal filler (Restylane) treatment, eyelid reshaping, eyelid fat removal and brow lifts.

DR. TU’S COSMETIC & LASER SURGERY CLINIC 290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3836 7685 www.bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound– based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions such as hair transplants, eyebrow lifts, nose, eye and ear shaping. The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, carried out with the best equipment by expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems such as sagging, dull skin, unwanted tattoos and acne by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic has the latest therapies including laser hair removal, stem cell therapy, skin rejuvenation by IPL, Botox and filler hydrolifting, anti-aging and hair loss regrowth treatments.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

JASMINE

THE SALON

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses stateof-the-art equipment, including fractional CO2 laser, Q-Switch Nd:Yag laser, Fraxel laser, and is the only skin clinic in Vietnam offering Digital Dermoscopy for skin cancer evaluation. Other treatments include eczema, acne, psoriasis, laser treatments (wrinkles, melasma, freckles, scars, keloids); Botox, Restylane and Dysport.

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Long–established, state–of–the–art clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC

119 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 3827 7700 SD-11,Panorama Phu My Hung, Tan Phong, Q.7 Tel: 5413 3300 Academy 117 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 3911 0915/3911 0916 www.kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this Singapore–based outlet provides hair treatments, from a simple wash and blow dry from a student (VND5,000) to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist (VND310,000). All services are monitored by highly qualified instructors. Appointments recommended. Open 9am to 9pm.

DENTAL ACCADENT Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 822 8800, www.accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6777 www.wescoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

HAIRDRESSERS ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3435 www.fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal. Shampoo, cut & blow–dry for VND530,000. Mini facials from VND250,000.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

ART HAIR

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic minutes from downtown. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available by a foreign orthodontist.

SMILE DENTAL 173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open Mon-Sat from 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm, closed on Sundays and public holidays. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP

37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp– looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

COLOR HAUS 23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3827 7700 www.colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean–based salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you. A wash and cut starts at VND80,000 from a junior stylist. To cover grey hair, price starts at VND250,000 while a full colour and highlights range from VND350,000 to VND550,000. They also have a new nail care service.

VENUS 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look for a night out on the town.

YKC HAIR STUDIO 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist Ky The Guy (Cut and Colour Specialist), YKC Hair Studio atteacts a loyal expat clientele thanks to the well trained staff and friendly English-speaking environment. Top industry products such as Tigi and Goldwell are used. A cut and blow-dry starts at VND550,000.

MEDICAL LE GRAND SPA & FITNESS Grand Hotel, 8 Dong Khoi, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 08 3827 0309. Open every day from 10.30am - 7pm. A hair stylist with 16 years experience including a long stint at Park Hyatt Hotel, Tommy Bui now works as a manager at Le Grand Spa Hotel. His hair salon is modern and relaxed, the staff professional and sociable. All famous cosmetic brands like L'Oreal, TiGi and nail water OPI are being used. A hair cut including washing and blowdry costs from VND500,000.

AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS 273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10, Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health–checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

CAO THANG EYE HOSPITAL 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn Cao Thang is a comprehensive eye hospital overseeing 6000 surgeries per year (laser

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4625 Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated and rebranded her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a designer villa in Thao Dien, Q2. Open daily from 9am to 8pm, a full new range of services is now on offer, including a dedicated salon for kids: Concept Kids. Only top products such as Alfaparf and Natural Rendez-Vous are used.

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

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leisure & wellness vision correction, cataract surgery and eyelid reshaping). English speaking staff, a member of the World Association of Eye Hospitals (WAEH), and quality assurance by the Joint Commission International (JCI).

CARE 1 Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0757 www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI) – FOUNDATION ALAIN CARPENTIER 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine. A nonprofit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heat Institute to fund children’s operations.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1, Tel: 3823 8888 Well–established and well–regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with doctors (both overseas and Vietnamese) on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable, with a health check–up costing from VND400,000 to VND800,000.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider whose highly–qualified foreign and Vietnamese doctors can handle anything from emergencies to lab tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 Emergency: 5411 3500 www.fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, with maternity care a specialty. Hotline (24– hour) 5411 3500.

FV SAIGON CLINIC 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167, saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre conveniently located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

IFC INDIVIDUAL AND FAMILY COUNSELING HCMC A 2.4 Parkview Building, Q7, 28/1A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 0903 031208 libbyzin@yahoo.com With offices located in district one and Phu My Hung, this nonprofit counselling clinic offers sliding scale fees to all its patients. For eight years in HCMC, IFC has been the only teaching clinic practicing western psychotherapy with attention to the values of other nationalities and cultures.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine. A non– profit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heart Institute to fund children’s operations.

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INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. The International SOS medical team of expatriate and national doctors and nurses provide general practice consultations for the whole family. Specialist care is available in many fields, including general practice, women’s health, pediatrics, vaccinations, physiotherapy/osteopathy, dental and more. In-house pharmacy has a wide selection of prescription and over the counter medication.

CAT MOC SPA

STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordskin.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open & doctors on call 24/7.

PHARMACIES INTERNATIONAL SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The in-house pharmacy at this well-respected clinic provides an excellent range of all medications, both over the counter and prescription-only. Pharmacy managed and staffed by English speaking team.

61-63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 6295 8926 www.catmocspa.com Established in 2010 and aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. Open daily from 9am to 10pm including national holidays. 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 8368 www.glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes (VND400,000) to two-hour hot stone therapy (VND1.2 million), includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care as well as a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA

THANH SANCTUARY

GLOW SPA

69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 3827 7188 www.indochine-spa.com Nestled in the heart of the city, Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with a range of aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by fully qualified therapists using 100% natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

MEKONG BLISS SPA 112, Pasteur Street, Q1, Tel: 6299 0563 www.mekongblissspa.com 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm) Located in the centre of Saigon, Mekong Bliss Spa is a top place to enjoy authentic Vietnamese spa treatments. As well as offering an impressive plethora of services such as herbal foot scrubs, warm stone therapy and purifying facials, part of the proceeds go towards helping disadvantage youth in the Mekong Delta, meaning you’re making difference while getting pampered. What could be better than that?

FAME NAILS SALON

JUST MEN 40 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services (starting from VND200,000), offers massages for the tired executive, with a head, shoulder and neck massage costing VND150,000. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE 64A Truong Dinh, Q3; 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1218 www.lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages (from VND550,000), facials (from VND500,000), sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing (around VND210,000). Also offers gentleman’s care.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In the heart of downtown and specialising in all forms of skincare, this is a well– designed and outfitted day spa offering body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments. Nice decor completes the atmosphere.

SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from

SPA TROPIC 79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: 3910 5575 www.spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Established since 2002, Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Spa Tropic offers a complete range of spa services and an al fresco café with a healthy food and drinks menu crafted by a New York trained organic chef.

SALONS 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 3521 0599 www.famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9901 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Spa InterContinental offers guests the professional spa expertise and a truly sensory experience. With an extensive menu, the Spa InterContinental provides the caring touch of the local therapists and the best of active pure ingredients and exotic botanical recipes, bringing to life Asia’s healing traditions.

MIU MIU FOOT & SPA 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6659 3609 www.koneko.asia/miumiu 10am to 11:30pm (Last booking 10:30pm) Located in the city centre, and standing for “Nyanya” (or “cry of the kitten”), Miu Miu is an elegant and serene Japanese spa offering various body, facial and foot massages, as well as several nail treatments including manicures, polish and design, and scrubs. Massages range from 60 minutes to two hours and rates are from VND65,000 to VND530,000. The spa also offers Thann and Harnn, popular beauty products in Thailand.

Q SPA & SALON 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3905 4609 An old world, Indochine-esque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a deep tissue, hot stone or four-hands massage. Also offers hair styling and facials.

QING SPA 110 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa above the foot massage salon that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service and members get a 20 percent discount off foot & body massage as well as a 10 percent discount on other services.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.

Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated with furnishings brought in from Thailand. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies such as massages and body scrubs.

STYLE

LISTINGS

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 125 CLOTHING STORES 125 LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS 127 SPORTSWEAR 127 TAILORS 127 INTERIORS ART 128 CRAFT 128 FURNITURE & HOMEWARES 128 KITCHEN & BATHROOM 129

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 2K BAG SHOP

Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0290 www.thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

362 Huynh Tan Phat, Q7; 193 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc; 55 Pham Van Thuan, Bien Hoa Tel: 097 7872 777 This cute little store has been gaining popularity amongst Vietnamese and foreigners alike. Although dinky from the outside, 2K stocks an impressive, colourful selection of purses, wallets, handbags, manbags, laptop carriers, backpacks and suitcases. If you’re hunting for a good value, last minute purchase, then 2K is well worth the visit. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND1.5 million.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

ACCESSORIZE

THE SPA

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 ext. 2235 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level. Six treatment rooms for women, four treatment rooms for men, one foot massage room and two VIP spa suites (couples’ treatment rooms) are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Treatments start at VND400,000 and packages are available regularly.

THE SPA AT THE DUXTON HOTEL Duxton Hotel, 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999, www.duxton.com Conveniently located in the very central Duxton Hotel, The Spa offers a full range of services including deluxe manicures and pedicures, aroma body massages, 60–minute foot massages, and the usual sauna and steam bath facilities.

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234, www.hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury downtown spa noted for its tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages (from VND900,000), facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction for over a decade has firmly established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors. Complimentary beverages are offered in addition to a complete range of professional spa services. Family owned since 1996, YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9308 9am to 10pm One of the most instantly recognisable international retail brands operating inside Vincom Center, Accessorize pulls in droves of shoppers thanks to stocking an attractive range of globally sourced products, from beachwear and children’s clothing to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses and much more. Prices vary depending on type and design but generally start from around VND200,000.

BIRKENSTOCK B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Stands out from the crowd thanks to its

ICONS 101 CASUAL WEAR FORMAL WEAR SHOES BAGS JEWELLERY ACCESSORIES SWIMWEAR UNDERWEAR

style visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings LIGHTING 129 ELECTRONICS CAMAERAS 129 COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES 130 MOBILE PHONES 130 GROCERIES BAKERIES 130 CATERING 131 GROCERIES 131 LIQUOR & WINE 132 wooden and neon-lit frontage and eyecatching wooden shelves and boxes used to display its Birkenstock brand products. Selling shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany made with various designs and colours, there are also similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

BLUE DRAGON 1B Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm It’s hard to ignore this store as its frontage is painted in a stark lemon yellow. Well-known for its selection of recycled bags made from plastic feed sacks, coming in all designs and colours, the unique product selection includes colourful quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery, scrap metal animals and other such wares. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

CHARLES & KEITH 18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9306 9am to 10pm This airy, well-displayed and wellorganised Singaporean store has two branches in town. An elegant beige frontage stands out thanks to three large hanging posters. Sells women’s shoes, bags and accessories with a wide range of products from boots, heels and sandals to bags and clutches. Prices are acceptable for an international brand with a pair of thong sandals costing VND775,000 and leather bags starting at VND1.1 million. There is also a selection of sunglasses from VND1.1 million and belts for VND600,000.

DR. MARTENS 127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3832 3904 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm Dr Martens has come a long way from the punk era of the late 1970s when its boots first gained popularity as a hard-man (or woman) accessory. Indeed, according to a recent consumer survey, eight out of 10 urban Vietnamese teenagers own a pair of sandals from this global shoe brand. Standing out thanks to its bright yellow signage, the street style and wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots that contrast from the 15-hole lace-ups from the past. But then, with Dr Martens its all about the quality of the soles.

Chaudhary, this retail-cum-gallery space is decked out in white giving it a sleek aura of elegance. Specialises in contemporary and exclusive arty jewellery including rings, bracelets, necklaces and medals all displayed in U-shaped cases. The products are handcrafted and made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials consisting of precious metals, plastic, zinc or fiberglass. There are also exhibitions and gallery talks every month and the gallery stocks the work of guest jewellery artists. Check the website for details.

IPA-NIMA 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 2701 www.ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm Looking for fun, sexy, glamorous accessories? Look no further. Dubbed one of the most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery in Vietnam, Ipa-Nima is the brainchild Hong Kong-born designer Christina Yu. The flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes definitely catch the eye. Also stocks shoes, dresses and hats. Prices range from for bags, VND1.2 million to VND2.1 million for shoes and from VND3 million for dresses.

JEMMA 174 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3926 0270 www.jemma.com.vn 9am to 10pm A branch of the Vietnamese SJC company, the elegance and luxury of this space provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece. A coral necklace costs around VND900,000 while a silver ring with an angel hair stone is stocked at around VND1.5 million. A selection of bags starts from VND1.4 million.

MAI O MAI

shop name checking a host of famous international timepiece brands means this shop is unmissable. Large and with in-your-face displays, TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. A funky plastic Swatch strap watch costs VND2 million while a classic gilded Longines strap starts at VND11 million. Also stocks high-end brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

TIC TAC WATCHES 72 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 3519 www.tictacwatch.com 9am to 8pm The pleasant and steady sound of a watch stays the same. However, its design has evolved along with mankind. So has the TicTac Company, growing from a family watch specialist store in Ho Chi Minh City in 1978 to an elegant black-andgold designer watch showroom. Stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Baume & Mercier, Maurice Lacroix, Armand Nicolet, Mido, Hirsch and Swiza. Also provides repairs and battery changes. Time seems to never stop at Tic Tac Watches.

THERESE JEWELRY 9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3827 3756 www.theresejewelry.com 8am to 7.30pm A good place for luxury jewellery, this store is located on a tiny street in between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi. However, it stands out thanks to its décor and design with a big wooden and glass door. Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, an oval pink stone necklace, a gold plain daisy brooch, all displayed in a U-shaped wooden case. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring. Men can also find a selection of cufflinks here.

VESPA SHOP

67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4007 Mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool and funky jewellery. There are also selections of ethnic bags, fabulous hand-made silver pieces and lacquer items. All products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000 and intricate designs cost over VND2.1 million. The staff is friendly and speak English.

Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Located inside Saigon Square, this store is perfect for anyone looking to indulge in their obsession with classic scooters. Stocking a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia from Saigon Scooter Centre, the wares include t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and much more. Rental scooters and bikes are also available.

SERGIO ROSSI

YB DESIGNS

146AB Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Located opposite Labella, the luxurious design and appearance of this quiet shop actually intimidates passers-by. Features upmarket shoes and bags made from high-quality materials such as crocodile or python skin and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads. Prices vary but a normal pair of shoes starts from VND21 million. Credit cards (of course) are accepted.

SKECHERS 115 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 9582 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm The award-winning SKECHERS is one of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. Now the number two footwear brand in the US with new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old, SKECHERS is fast becoming a popular choice with Vietnamese. The display is impressive with shoes in many designs and colours hanging on the walls. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

TDC SWISS WATCHES

35 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 6291 8162 www.galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm Located next to Jaspa’s and run by jewellery and furniture designer Vivek

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Tel: 3929 0685 www.tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm The wide signage on the front of the

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 0907 168910 www.yimbaderjewelry.com Situated on the same site as Snap Café, YB is a small shop with simple décor, offering all kinds of jewellery including earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings. Most of the products are handmade and crafted from various gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite. Prices are affordable, depending on the type of gemstone and design, but usually start from VND50,000. Also offers custom orders.

CLOTHING STORES BUDGET MARATHON 147 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Even though their business card claims Marathon to be a sports fashion store, it’s actually a beachwear shop. With an orange frontage, this outlet quickly grabs the attention of passers by. Displays many products in a simple and accessible style, offering colourful beach pants, t-shirts and flip-flops for men and women, caps, and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices range from VND110,000 to VND190,000 for a t-shirt, and VND140,000 for a pair of flip-flops.

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style PAPAYA 171 Bui Vien, Q1 www.papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts for both men and women, which are manufactured in Vietnam. Also offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. A part of the profit from each sale is given to two charity organizations, Poussieres de Vie and the Endangered Asian Species Trust. A t-shirt starts at VND189,000, a cap costs VND99,000 and a post card is only VND15,000.

ORANGE 180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3. Tel: 3820 2620 152 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3836 5028 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults. Despite simple décor, Orange stands out thanks to the array of colourful products hanging on the wall including jeans, t-shirts, bags, sandals and belts. A selection of attractive hats and leather bracelets are also stocked. Prices are affordable with t-shirts selling for VND180,000 while bags go for between VND90,000 and VND600,000. Shoes start at VND400,000 a pair.

MID-RANGE BAM SKATESHOP 174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-cum-skate store has played a large role in the current rise of local, non K-Pop street fashion thanks to its branded mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps, accessories and more. Naturally, there is also a range of skateboards on sale, with the board and wheels costing anywhere between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

GINKGO 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 0905 493148 www.ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run clothing store that also has an outlet in Nha Trang. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. Has a permanent photo gallery upstairs exhibiting the works of Thiery Beyne.

MAXXSTYLE 52 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3. Tel: 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Located next to Zen Plaza, this Vietnamese brand is one of the best-known shops in town for unisex clothing. Contains a wide range of apparel including jeans, tees, shirts, jackets, khaki trousers and much more, all displayed in a huge retail space. Stocks many different designs, fabrics and colours, and prices are good. A pair of men’s jeans starts at VND500,000, and VND450,000 for women, while a female shirt costs about VND300,000 and VND279,000 for a printed male tee.

style MID TO TOP BOSSINI 22 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3839 2292 9am to 10pm This Hong Kong-brand retailer sells both male and female casual wear, including jeans, khaki trousers, tees and shirts. Although carrying various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts, there are not many products. Prices range from VND900,000 for a pair of women’s jeans and VND700,000 for a shirt. Also stocks socks and belts.

ER-COUTURE

MAI’S

89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com 9am to 9pm More than just a typical clothing store, It’s Happened To Be A Closet (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a colourful range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, but doubles up as a Wi-Fi friendly café stocking an impressive array of imported food and beverages, as well as artful jewelry, handicrafts, comestibles, accessories and books. Also offers manicures and pedicures.

132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 2733 9.30am to 9.30pm Based on the ground floor of the Continental Hotel, Mai’s feels more like an art space than a fashion shop. Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories. Her renowned signature pieces include velvet and cotton ao dai reworked for casual wear, as well as hand embroidered vintage US army and flak jackets. Also stocks a fine selection of artworks. Prices range from VND1 million to VND80 million for clothes, and VND600,000 to VND40 million depending on styles and materials.

LABELLA

43 Thao Dien, Q1 Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com 9am to 8pm This Scandinavian outlet is situated on the first floor of An Phu market, stocking high-quality designer garments. Carries a full range of products, from floral dresses to tight tanks starting at VND1.8 million, as well as chiffon shorts and high-waist trousers for VND2 million. Shoes, bags, belts, scarves and hats are also carried as well as larger sizes.

85-87 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Located opposite Sergio Rossi, the decorative style and display of this Vietnamese fashion outlet is both impressive and endearing, using strong colours like orange and wood-brown to catch the eye. Products include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. A large selection of bags is displayed on colourful and eyecatching box-shaped shelves. Also offers night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

D’BLANC

LEVI’S

89A Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 5164 www.d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by the modern woman with a youthful attitude, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. A complete lifestyle collection that offers a broad range of stylish looks to take women from day to night and work to the weekend. Accessories are also available. A dress costs from VND1.5 million.

47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3240 7460 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3. Tel: 3240 7461 9am to 9.30pm For cosmopolitans who love genuine Levi’s Jeans, there are numerous of the self-branded stores throughout the city. Invented by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, the brand has become one of the most recognisable and imitated pieces of clothing throughout the world. The stores here offer a wide range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices vary but normally start at VND2 million for a pair of woman’s jeans.

FRENCH CONNECTION L1-08, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7493 www.8lions.com 9am to 10pm Located inconspicuously on a corner of the Vincom Center, customers have trouble finding this generically designed shop. Stocks both casual and formal wear for men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts. Prices here are also surprisingly reasonable. A male tee starts at VND750,000 while a pair of men’s jeans goes for as little as VND1.8 million. There is also a small selection of bags and belts.

LITI

GAYA CLOTHING

61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (opening Aug. 15) Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 (opening Sep. 1) Tel: 3925 9993 www.lolita.com.vn Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, offering stylish and comfortable easy-to-wear clothing for work or play

Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 Located on the 2nd floor of the Gaya, all the clothing here is designed and tailoredmade by renowned French-Cambodian designer Romyda Keth and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. There are plenty of colourful and sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops. If it doesn’t quite fit, alterations are available. Prices start at VND2 million for a normal party dress. Also stocks a small selection of men’s shirts.

NINOMAXX

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3824 9689 www.ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm A brother of Maxxstyle, this brand is well-known locally for both its men’s and women’s clothing. Set in a large, two-floor space, Ninomax stands out thanks to its large white-painted Renaissancestyle columns. Despite its size, a lack of adequate lighting gives the shop a slightly darker feel. Has the same prices as Maxxstyle and also stocks similar products.

85 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3829 4004 8am to 10pm The products of this Australian fashion label are displayed on the basement floor with contemporary ranges of casual and eveningwear fused with Asian designs. The work of proprieter Hellen Holani, the apparel includes sweet floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Worth a visit with friends so you can also enjoy a cup of coffee at the in-house cafe while waiting to pick up your clothes.

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IT'S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSET

40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Located near the corner of Pasteur and Ly Tu Trong, Liti harks back to Vietnam’s French colonial era. Stocking simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, other retro ware includes clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple black blouse starts at VND820,000 while an old clock costs upwards of VND3 million.

LOLITA

L’USINE First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm A contemporary shopping experience can be enjoyed at this fashion boutique, café and art gallery. A spacious, elegant Indochina-themed image of a 1930’s French garment factory, L’Usine stocks exclusive labels from all over the world, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons tailored to the climate of Ho Chi Minh City. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, home-wares, nick-knacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANGO 40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1136 96 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3824 6624 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3914 7464 B1-43 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9300 www.maisonco.com 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand is located in an impressively designed two-storey building with a black-painted neon logo outside. The entire shop is well displayed with air-conditioning and professional staff, exuding a feeling of class but not luxury. Provides a full range of clothing including jeans, tees, skirts, trousers, cardigans, leggings and much more. There are also selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million, and a pair of jeans starts at VND1.4 million. Visit the website for more Mango outlets in town.

MR & MRS SMITH 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet, located in the same building as Dogma and Saigon Kitsch, sells a variety of men’s and women’s clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam for export markets in Europe, Japan and the US. All designs are brand new, delivered directly from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices (VND100,000 to VND70,000).

NGAN 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 6290 9391 www.nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Ngan has become a well-known brand due to their distinctive tailor-made clothing and designs. Stocks mainly women’s clothes, however, men are also suitably catered for. The entire shop is designed in a sleek and luxurious black with cozy lighting emanating from a pendant light fixture. Due to the elegant and sophisticated designs and high-quality fabrics, prices are more top-end, with a party dress ranging from VND6 million to VND10 million a piece, and a normal dress starting at VND3 million. There are selections of boots, belts, scarves and jewellery boxes. Also does bespoke orders.

RAZ GARNETT 137 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, a wide range of sneakers and authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops. Crocs sandals are also displayed in the middle of the store. T-shirts range from VND400,000 to VND900,000, VND400,000 for a bag and VND700,000 for sneakers. Also stocks sunglasses starting at VND400,000. Has European-sized t-shirts.

SONG 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, Q1. Tel: 3821 5292 76D Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3824 6986 This t-shaped and turquoise-painted store is located on the first floor of Saigon Center, stocking the clothing of French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie. All the

designs have a quaint, slightly Gallic feel and are made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000 and a spandex shirt goes for VND1.5 million. Also stocks shoes, sandals and a small range of accessories.

THUY NGA DESIGN 19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 Tel: 3820 3574 www.thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm With over 15 years in the trade, Thuy Nga is one of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam. This luxurious shop stocks both men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear. A long-sleeved women’s shirt starts from VND1 million while a male striped shirt starts from VND1.3 million. Also stocks jewellery and accessories.

UMBRELLA 35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Impressively designed with exposed brick walls, Umbrella is airy and well displayed with warm lighting exuding a comfortable atmosphere. Sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices are acceptable for tailormade clothing, with a party dress starting from VND2.7 million. A blouse starts from VND990,000 and shoes, bags and belts are available. Also offers a small selection of imported funky jewellery ranging from VND1 million a piece.

TOP-END ANUPA Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7307 Eco Luxe Anupa, 9 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 2394 www.anupa.net Situated in a French villa-style home and converted into an eco-boutique, Villa Anupa houses the complete Anupa Collection as well as the products of Anupa Horvil's handpicked eco designers. Anupa’s collection features luxury leather accessories including bags for men and women as well as many other pieces from yoga bags to belts. Other designers include Unit T bamboo eyewear, Miguel la Salle and Things of Substance to name but a few. Recently expanding to another location, Anupa has opened an Eco-Luxe boutique which carries a smaller selection of her collection. Both stores are open from 9am until 8pm daily.

CHLOE 155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm Located inside the Rex Hotel, this Parisian fashion house is one of the most popular international brands with local celebrities due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products. Chloe Saigon stocks a range of Chloe products, from low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes to Sakia bags. There is also a selection of glasses in many cool and contemporary styles and designs.

JUST CAVALLI M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9005 9am to 10pm Contemporary decor with large mirrors and leather sofas creates the setting for a range of products catering for both men and women. The apparel of this Italian brand varies in both design and fabric, helping shoppers identify with contrasting international fashion trends. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million. There is also a small selection of bags and scarves.

MARC JACOBS

TRIUMPH

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel next door to Chloe, this urban American brand carries international-standard clothing and a wide range of sophisticated bags placed on wooden shelves, costing from around VND6 million. There is also a glass case in the middle of the store containing other accessories.

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, Triumph’s high-quality products make women look and feel good. However, because of the form of the bra cup, this brand is considered to be more suitable for European women. The bras are plentiful and come in many different colours, styles and designs, while the pants look more classic and traditional compared to other brands. Prices vary but normally a bra starts at VND600,000 and a pair of knickers goes for VND200,000. Also stocks a small selection of bikinis.

VERSACE M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 9am to 10pm Spacious, well-displayed and stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, Versace is shopping at its most lavish. The products come in many colours and fabrics, designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers. Prices are expectedly expensive; a well-tailored floral dress will set you back VND40 million. There is also a small selection of shoes and bags.

LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS AQUAMARINE 211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3827 5695 www.xuanthuswimsuit.com 8am to 8.30pm Situated on the corner of Truong Dinh and Ly Tu Trong, Aquamarine is a classy branch of Xuan Thu swimwear. A small shop full of colourful products, a step inside results in a sensory overload. Offering custom orders, the stock here runs the gamut from one-piece bikinis through to twopieces as well as monokinis and various types of beachwear with different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Also stocks a small selection of scarves.

WACOAL 94 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1. Tel: 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women in Ho Chi Minh City, Wacoal has more than 10 shops around town. However, there is a lack of product variety and the designs are quite classic. Compared to Triumph, prices are quite expensive with a bra ranging from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while pants start at VND250,000 per pair. No swimsuits. Staff are friendly, helpful and enthusiastic.

SPORTSWEAR SPORTS STREET A large amount of fine and affordable sportswear can be found around town, however, there are two main streets stocking sportswear in the centre; Huyen Tran Cong Chua, between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Du in District 1; and Pham Hong Thai, between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Loi. You can find everything for sports on these streets,

from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma at ultra affordable prices through to the real thing.

U.BEST HOUSE 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1. Tel: 3920 9187 9am to 11pm With its wooden frontage, this shop feels and looks like an army disposal store, with a comprehensive range of products, including flashlights, binoculars, climbing clothing, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags and even underwear and cycling gear. If you’re after any products related to travelling, then this store is a must.

TAILORS HOANG DUNG 270 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 2240 5990 8am to 8pm Located on the corner of Bui Vien and Cong Quynh, this store offers a wide range of tailor-made clothing with all designs and styles, from vests to ao dais, and skirts and trousers. Customers can either bring their own fabric or ask the tailor to choose for them. A normal pair of shirts can be made in two days. Prices are acceptable, with a vest costing around VND700,000 and VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including the price of the fabrics. Guarantees that all tailor-made clothing will fit.

MANDARINA 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 5267 9am to 7pm One of the most difficult things for foreigners living in Vietnam is finding the correct shoes size. Mandarina is a good place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes. They can even make shoes in 24 hours for around VND1 million. Simply choose the design and colour and they will take care of the rest. There is also a

JOCKEY Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm One of the most popular underwear brands in Vietnam, the American selfbranded shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear. Prices of imported clothing are slightly more expensive compared to domestically manufactured products. A sport tee ranges from VND150,000 to VND180,000, while a pair of long johns starts at VND200,000, with a sports outfit costing VND300,000.

LA HA 139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands in Vietnam, La Ha caters for both men and women. The shop is small and simply decorated but contains a comprehensive range of products with many different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini. Also stocks yoga and gym outfits.

SSUZI 127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm This brand is better known on Facebook than in The Backpackers’ Area. Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and two-piece bikinis starting from VND250,000. The shop has been designed well making it easy to search for the right swimsuit. Also stocks maxim dresses at VND380,000 and beach sandals at VND110,000. A small selection of earrings and sunglasses is available. Search on Facebook for ssuziswimwear for new designs and promotions.

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style

wide range of ready-to-wear shoes, from sandals and peep toes to slingbacks and boots. Stocks a small selection of bags, too. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000 depending on style and materials.

T&V TAILOR 39 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 4556 9am to 11pm Run by two Vietnamese sisters, Tricia and Verona, this shop offers tailor-made clothing for both men and women with the latest and trendiest designs and styles. Stocks a wide range of fabrics, which is helpful for those that don’t know where to purchase it separately. Find something on the rack, get measured up then return a day or two later and pick up your custom-made garment. Alterations can be made upon request. An ao dai costs from VND1.6 million and a suit starts at VND4 million including fabric.

INTERIORS ART APRICOT GALLERY 50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art. Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars. Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

CACTUS GALLERY 17/12 Nguyen Huy Tuong, P6, Binh Thanh. Tel: 0904959053 www.cactusartgallery.com Located near to the Fine Art University, Cactus Gallery was founded in 2011 by artist Phuong Quoc Tri with a desire to provide the art space to the world in general and Viet Nam in particular, both on a personal level and on a united one. Linking talented artists together for daily art events such as exhibitions, artist talks and art projects the gallery aims to erase the boundaries between Vietnamese and International artists as well as any art lovers, curators, collectors and art dealers. Cactus Gallery primarily focuses on discovering, supporting and developing young talent.

DOGMA

offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

order-made-clothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

GALERIE QUYNH

MEKONG CREATIONS

65 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamesethemed stereotypes available elsewhere in town. Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-creations.org A project of the NGO Mekong Plus designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. All products are locally produced, including paper mache, ratten, bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. Bamboo vases from VND350,000 and rag ranges from VND400,000.

257 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers. Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

2 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house. Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

PHUONG MAI

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

NHU Y

213C Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists. Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a fourfloor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1 Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists. Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propaganda-printed tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

TMG

GALLERY

EM EM

244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers

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NGUYEN FRERES

234 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and well-organised space offers a comprehensive range of products. An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

CRAFT

83 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA 209 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above. Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

MEKONG QUILTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3914 2119 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-quilts.org A charity organization helping poor women in rural areas, all products are handmade with a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within 5-6 weeks. Also stocks accessories such as aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

FURNITURE & HOMEWARES AUSTIN HOME 20 Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.

A&W FINE FURNITURE Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs. Their products are stocked at AA Deco with Their products are stocked at Nha Xinh showroom.

BELLAVITA The Crescent Parcel CR1-07/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by well-known brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware. Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT 68-70 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks. Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CALLIGARIS 4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interior-furnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

CHI LAI 53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3 Tel: 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

CLIC CLAC SOFA 327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock includes many covers in various colours

and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

DIABOLO 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

ESTHETIC 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-to-order furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

FEELING TROPIC 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4640/4643 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery. Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

GAYA 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive postWorld War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linen-embroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

HAFELE SHOWROOM 46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features

a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

LIVING & GIVING 59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors. Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

NHA XINH 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials. From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs. Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE 3B Tong Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6657 0788 www.thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

THE LOST ART 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more. Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

LIGHT HOUSE

UNITY 12 Dang Tran Con, Q1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection— to give your home a sense of Unity.

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN 152 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3925 3648 www.verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custom-made items.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailormade environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

KITCHEN & BATHROOM CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1 It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

LIGHTING CAO DONG Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand. Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO 51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials. Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE 98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 4634 www.mosaiquedecoration.com 9am to 9pm This eye-popping lime green-painted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

VEKTOR LED 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.VektorLED.com Vektor LED provide LED base replacement lights and T8 tubes that are easy to install in current sockets. Using green materials (no mercury or other toxins), these lights provide an energy saving of 50% against normal Fluorescent lights, with 10-15 times the lifespan of normal lights.

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS CAMERA STREET Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH 28 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS Tel: 0903 035 271 www.silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, professional, true HD and extremely small. The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

LE VU NIKON 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly

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in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000. Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

MAT RONG VANG

81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0999 www.cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices. With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of wellknown brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

Fitting & Services Centre, 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.goldendragoneye.com Ctrack GPS vehicle solutions. A world leader in real time monitoring and data collection, Ctrack GPS has operations in 56 countries and have more than 20 years of hands on experiences in solutions related to GPS and management logistics. Juotec T-eye Dashboard Cameras record events outside and inside vehicles with high-res 1.3Mb cameras.

PHAM THE 11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony. They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES COMPUTER STREETS Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3825 7750 9am to10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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CARTRIDGE WORLD

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER 236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 7300 6666 www.elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million. Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 3925 8999 www.hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million. In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customer-service.

LONG BINH COMPUTER 50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 0699 www.longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers. Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU 125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM 42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1. Tel: 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD

shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN 428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3818 1188 www.tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

THUAN MY CO. 227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3838 9164 www.thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

MOBILE PHONES GIA KIEN 352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3868 3733 www.giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE 382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3526 5838 www.thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG 182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292 www.thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and

specifications. The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices. Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A 328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3863 3333 www.vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

GROCERIES BAKERIES CAKEWALK 84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 6295 9087 www.cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS 54 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic– based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS 33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com www.harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

SIMRANS

LE REUNION DES MARMITES

SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com www.simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate. No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

Tel: 08 6274 0647 www.lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more. Visit website for full menu.

SESAME BAKERY 153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 or 0918 445311 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOUS LES JOURS 180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

VOELKER 39 Thao Dien, Q2 www.voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

CATERING AU PARC CATERING Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME 100 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Tel: 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western– fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

QUAN BUI Tel: 01286 252 351 / 3602 2241 (Mr Danh) High quality Vietnamese food at reasonable prices for the home or workplace. Caters for private parties, receptions, office celebrations, and conferences. Choose from an extensive Vietnamese menu (crispy spring rolls, chicken fried rice, sautéed prawns and cashew nuts) or mix and match with Western cuisine (canapés, dips, cocktail sandwiches, fresh tropical fruit). Efficient delivery, all equipment and waiter service provided.

REX HOTEL CATERING 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3829 2185 With the same team that feeds the guests at the Rex Hotel, prospective clients can be sure that the party they plan will be in good hands.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY 41 Vo Truong Toan, D.2, HCMC Tel: 3898 9286 info@saigoncateringco.com www.saigoncateringco.com With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals. Experienced with every conceivable style, from the smallest dinner party to a standup cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow, marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to

your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

KITCHEN – QUALITY FROZEN READY MEALS

84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128 info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget. Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

YES! ICE–CREAM HOME DELIVERY SERVICE Tel: 3844 6099 A delivery service offering banana–on a stick, Öla premium ice–cream & frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice–cream. All produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

GROCERIES ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

Tel: 0974 444 001 www.kitchen.net.vn Kitchen provides an alternative to takeaways with home-cooked frozen ready meals in biodegradable packaging. Beef, pork, chicken and vegetarian meals cost between VND140,000-VND220,000 for 2-3 portions. Order online at www.kitchen. net.vn. Free delivery.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally– sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer. Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer. Open seven days a week.

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

LE COCHON D’OR

AUSSIE–FRUITS

PHUONG HA

45 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Q1 Tel: 6291 8126 www.aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109 www.classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find

32 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

OPERATION: TEA Tel: 01693 583563 www.operationteavietnam.com Offering a line high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and tea ware. Tea tasting events are conducted by an experienced tea infusionist, who is available for private tastings as well. 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA 60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers. Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

THE OASIS 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 (inside Snap Cafe) Tel: 3744 6432 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2449 The Oasis grocery store and gourmet shop

LA DORÉE 216 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 65 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, La Dorée serves up a variety of colourful and traditional French breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds, including baguettes, fougasse, and dieppois and montagnard sandwiches. Desserts include passion cheese, tiramisu and chocolate mouse.

NHU LAN 64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

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generation v was established in Hanoi three years ago and offers imported and local delicatessen such as cold cuts and cheeses from around the world, organic vegetables and many other homemade, artisanal readyto-eat food. Specialties include homemade lasagnas, soups, raviolis, pasta and sausages.

VEGGY’S 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET SHOP 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 www.annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

ELECTRONICS SUPERMARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day. You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson. In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information. CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET 590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm GIA THANH 975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE 133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm NGUYEN KIM 63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm THIEN HOA 277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa.vn 8am to 10pm

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BACCHUS CORNER 158D Pasteur, Q1 www.bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC 74E Hai Ba Trung,Q1 Tel: 5404 3575 www.daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE

GENERATION V

LISTINGS BABY EQUIPMEANT 132 CHILDREN'S BOOKS 132 CLASSES & SPORTS 132 CLOTHING 133

BABY EQUIPMENT BABY 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10, Tel: 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

CHILDREN’S SQUARE

LE TONNEAU

1B Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital with reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

15D Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3824 6597 Overlooking the wine store on the first floor is the VIP room upstairs which caters to club members and those who take their wine seriously. Special wine–tasting every Friday. Call Patrick for more details (0903102418).

RED APRON 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

TAPAS WINE CO LTD 2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com An importer of Spanish wines, Tapas delivers directly to your door. A growing list of products includes wines from the northern and central regions of Spain such as Elciego and Rioja Alavesa. Their website features their full portfolio complete with reviews.

THE WAREHOUSE 178 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VINE CELLAR – CASA HABANA 41 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2284 www.vine–group.com The wine store represents hundreds of award – winning wines from every part of the globe and stocks an exclusive collection of spirits. Also, Casa Habana – Cigar Shop provides 100% authentic Cuban cigars, and luxury cigar accessories.

VINIFERA 15C7 Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

VINO WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

270 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 2841 Pampers and Huggies nappies, baby bottles, bibs, buggies and other necessities.

ME OI

MOM & BABY 230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3, Tel: 3932 1611 Closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

CHILDREN’S BOOKS FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odd ends.

PHUONG NAM 1st Flr, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

CLASSES & SPORTS ALPHA GALLERY 10 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3822 4946 Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber runs six– week printmaking classes for children and adults, starting from the very beginning and working through to final prints made from copper plates. Other printing methods are also addressed.

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4490/4340 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and more classes of all levels at this modern dance studio.

GUITAR AND PIANO CLASSES Mr Anh Vu Phi, another conservatory graduate now teaching at the International School, offers private tutoring in guitar and piano in Vietnamese and English for VND200,000 per 45–minute session. He has 30 years experience teaching youngsters, and after a stint in Spanish city Seville now offers classes in flamenco, call him at 091 387 7884.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 (gallery and workshop), 88 Ho Tung Mau (FLOW – permanent exhibition) Tel: 0903 955780 hk.painter@gmail.com helenekling@yahoo.com www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings EDUCATION 133 ENTERTAIMENT 134 KIDS' PARTIES 135 MEDICAL 135 to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults.

LIFETIME SPORTS Tel: 0909 269511 mb@michaelbelmes.com www.michaelbelmes.com Group swimming, tennis and golf lessons run by Michael Belmes, the former Head Coach of the Vietnam National Polo Team and the Phillipines Elite Development Group of Swimmers. Prices start from around VND120,000. A Saigon Masters Swim Club is also being formed. Visit the website for more info.

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels for VND150,000 a session.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Steffen Christophe teaches introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard, and voice. With a diploma in guitar and singing from 10 years spent at the Geneva Conservatory, lessons at his home come from 25 years experience playing – one hour private tuition cost VND500,000 for students aged four to 14, and VND550,000 for those over (scb_ music77@hotmail.com).

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB 628A An Binh, Q2 Tel: 3898 9788 pcc@parklandvn.com Provides a range of leisure activities including sports and movie nights for children of all ages. Participation requires membership of this well–known country club. Email for more details.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 0122 5636 682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Offers a full range of piano lessons, from basic to advanced ones such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin. Suitable for kids of all ages.

generation v based activities. Contact Abbie Klein for more info.

Rykiel, Petit Bateau, Baby Dior and Kiwi are also available. As an added touch, the shop has been designed especially for children so that they feel at home.

SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com www.divevietnam.com Scuba Diving Adventures in a Swimming Pool for 8 + 9 year olds. 15 week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam.

RMIT VIETNAM 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn The venue for a large number of sporting activities for children of all ages. Sports include baseball, softball, football (soccer) and more.

SAIGON PONY CLUB 42 Le Van Thinh, Q2 Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn the correct riding technique from the three part–time teachers. Half–hour lessons with the engaging Amaury cost VND200,000.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY Tel: 0862 819790 info@SaigonSportsAcademy.com www.SaigonSportsAcademy.com Saigon Sports Academy offer coaching for children aged 4–16 years and private lessons for children and adults. They currently offer soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming. They have a team of International coaches offering training for beginners all the way up to professional levels. Please check the website for details. Also offers a youth soccer league that runs on Sundays 2pm–6pm in District 7. Call 0932 153502.

STAGEMAGIC Tel: 0903 145087 www.stagemagic.biz The city’s first stage school, offering youngsters between seven and 19 the opportunity to develop their acting and singing skills. The ultimate aim is to put on public performances at the end of each term. Cost for a 10–week term begins at VND2.1 million.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. One class a week costs VND160,000 per week; two classes a week are VND800,000 and three classes a month are VND1 million. There’s an additional fee for non–members. Contact Mr. Phuc on 0903 918149.

EDUCATION ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL WATERCOLOUR WORKSHOPS WITH LINDSAY ERDMAN Tel: 0932 102378 www.lindsayerdman.net Canadian watercolour artist, Lindsay Erdman hosts Saturday afternoon workshops for painters of all levels. Work with still life, live models and flora while learning or refining a variety of watercolour techniques. Workshops held on a beautiful terrace in district 10. Week-long workshops are also available.

CLOTHING 123 BABY CLOTHING 226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on good–quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

BELLI BLOSSOM 12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3822 6615 4th Floor, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel:5413 7574 www.belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom is a shop catering to moms and babies stocking imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and more. Available brands include Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends and Gingersnaps.

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 3853 The emphasis here is on attractive and unique designs for the very young, encompassing clothing, pyjamas and bedding. A great place to browse for some memorable items.

THANH THUY 93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 4893 There are clothes for all ages in here, mostly made of cotton and reasonably– priced, with friendly English–speaking staff on hand to help.

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL 227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.smallisb.com With the belief that each child is a prince or princess, the store offers an exclusive selection of brand names in clothing, accessories and creative toys. Creative toy brand names such as Playmobil, Vilac and Trousselier are on display and clothes by international designers such as Sonia

2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel: 84 8 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com Founded in 1995, this international school of 800+ students drawn from 32 national backgrounds is served by 80+ UK expatriate teachers and 70+ support staff. It is the only international school in the city whose curriculum is wholly based on UK standards for all pupils from age two yrs (Playgroup) to 18yrs (Pre–University matriculation). Students graduate with IGCSE’s & A levels awarded by Cambridge University examinations board.

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL East-West Highway, An Phu, D2, Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior school and a range of extracurricular activities. The new campus provides exceptional learning and sports facilities. Offers international curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Xi Early Childhood Centre 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. Tel: 3519 2727; Early Childhood & Primary School, Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien,Q2. Tel: 3744 6960; Middle & Senior School, EastWest Highway, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com A co-educational day school with dedicated early childhood, primary, middle and senior school campuses. An IB World School, students follow the PYP and MYP curriculum. Senior students follow the IGCSE – Cambridge A Levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies GRADE 12 Curriculum (UNSW). Focus on academic excellence, international student body, and exceptional facilities in quiet residential settings, qualified expatriate staff, range of co-curricular sport, creative, academic and musical activities and languages. Scholarships available.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com Three campuses offer a British–style education to moret than 1,500 children aged from two to 18. A centre for the UK Cambridge International Examinations boards, it is also an IB World School, delivering the IB Diploma Programme.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh Tel: 5412 3456 www.cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers co-educational classes from Kindergarten to grade 12 for local and foreign students. Talented, certified teachers implement the awarded Ontario curriculum to create a studentcentered learning environment. Focuses on academic achievement, character education and global thinking with a commitment to the arts and languages (Vietnamese and French). Students graduate with the Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognised by universities worldwide.

COMPASS EDUCATION 15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3820 3302 / 3820 3202 information@compass.edu.vn www.compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education is a English language education company that offers a range of courses for teachers, students and managers, corporate and teacher training, nanny and teacher placements and career counseling.

GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7257 A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. A language programme is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3827 7008/3827 7008 info@gymboreeclasses.com.vn www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0 - 5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in over 30 countries, making them a leader in early childhood development programs. Recognized for their approach to parent involvement, their programmes encourage participation in, and understanding of, each child’s development.

RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years at Somerset, Q1; AIS, Q2: APSC, Q2; Sherwood Residence, Q3 & classes now available in Q7. Run by Elizabeth Hollins.

SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Offering a variety of classes for movement development for ages two to 11 in An Phu and Phu My Hung. Saigon Movement aims to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports–

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generation v INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com ISHCMC, located in District 2, has been successfully graduating students with an IB Diploma to high-profile overseas colleges and universities since 1999. ISHCMC is the only fully authorized IB World School in HCMC, providing an International Baccalaureate curriculum (PYP, MYP & IBDP) to all students, ages 2 to 18. It is fully accredited by the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of School and Colleges (NEASC).

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 2222 7799 www.issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American standardbased curriculum taught by certified North American teachers. ISSP started the academic year of 2010-2011 with more than 100 students enrolled from 20 different nationalities. A brand new single purpose-built campus and state-of-art facility caters for nursery through to grade 5 (sixth grade added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese are welcome. Unique features include Mandarin language classes, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

generation v MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn School following the Montessori methodology for children from two to six years old, offering natural learning environments to complement the child’s natural sense of engagement with their surroundings. Also offers extra–curricular activities for children from three to 12.

PERFOMING ARTS ACADEMY OF HCMC Tel: 0862819679, info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in piano, guitar, drums, singing, flute, clarinet, and saxophone by real musicians and experienced teachers. ABRSM Qualified. Group dance and drama sessions also available. Plus new vacancies in our popular Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3–5.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Q7, Tel: 3773 3171 admission@rissaigon.edu.vn www.rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides British/International education with native English teachers and state–of–the–art facilities. Students from more than twenty–five nationalities from age two to 18. RISS is an IB World School, a member of CIS and IPC, and an approved centre for IGCSE.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTER Ground Floor, Crescent Residence 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0907 099 480 www.kindermusik.edu.vn Kindermusik is the world’s premier Music, Movement & English language program for children from birth to 7 years. Each unit’s weekly lessons promote early literacy and English language acquisition, social skills and more. The learning fun continues with Kindermusik@Home materials, including music from class, musical activities and story time. Kindermusik programs align with standards and/or requirements for the USA, UK, EU, TESOL Pre-K and IB Primary Years Program; and have been adopted by the National Teachers College of Ho Chi Minh City. Enrolments include a family activity book or digital magazine, along with high-quality CDs or digital music downloads, containing a variety of musical styles and genres. There are over 6,000 Kindermusik Educators in 67 countries.

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SAIGON INTERNATIONAL COLLEGE (SIC)

21K Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0938 371 760 www.sic.edu.vn An Australian-Vietnamese government project, SIC caters for Years 10, 11 & 12 and is under the Curriculum Council of Western Australia. All subjects taught in English by foreign teachers. Inspectors from Australia control teaching standards. Students graduate with the internationally recognised Australian Certificate of Education (WACE), which gives direct entry to all Australian universities. Fees up to VND142,702,000 per year.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 104A Tran Quoc Toan, Q3, Tel: 3932 5579 www.saigonkidscentre.com Has evolved over 10 years to create a creative learning environment through play for children between the ages of two and six. There are 12 teachers, and the school limits numbers to 85 to ensure personal attention for all the children.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high school, emphasising state–of–the–art facilities, a multi–cultural student environment, and a commitment to a well–rounded education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2 Tel: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn The school offers a British primary curriculum, supported by the Cambridge International Primary Program, as well as an integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. The school focuses on providing a stimulating learning environment, and a value priced education. A brand new 8,000 sq. meter eco-friendly campus, the largest of any primary school in Ho Chi Minh City, includes a pool, running stream and more.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3519 4236, www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre provides kindergarten and pre–school education for children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3519 2223 Fax: 3519 2224 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn info@tasvietnam.edu.vn A fully-licensed American school programme designed by administrators and educators experienced in the development and operation of American and international

schools. An independent and private college preparatory school with an individualized programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a US-based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

THE LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten has joined Sisterhood with school in USA and uses same curriculum. It is the Kindergarten with the best facilities and environment compare to any similar size school in Vietnam

VAS 98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: 3933 3655 www.vas.edu.vn VAS is one of the leading schools for teaching and learning development in Vietnam, providing from programmes from Kindergarten to Secondary school education. In line with their mission to educate an elite young generation with confidence to integrate into the world’s education, VAS also aims to develop its human resources by creating a professional and friendly working environment with attractive benefits for teachers.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS) 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Ben Nghe Ward, Q1 Tel: 3910 0168 / 3910 3266 contact@vlstudies.com R4-28 (Hung Phuoc 2) Le Van Them, Q7 Tel: 3602 6694 info@vlstudies.com www.vlstudies.com This professional school has built a good reputation over 18 years. VLS offers set and tailor-made courses for all abilities in high quality facilities with time flexibility. Lessons can be taken either at school or at the learner’s office and home.

ENTERTAINMENT

X–ROCK CLIMBING 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2, Tel: 3402 2542 www.xrockclimbing.com. X–Rock Climbing is the city’s first venture of this kind. The facilities for children are excellent (children under 12 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian) at this 26–metre–tall wall, where you (or they) can climb up or abseil down. A day pass costs VND200,000

KIDS’ PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON Tel: 0909 052502, dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

THE BALLOON MAN 100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn If you don’t know how to cook jelly, never mind, because The Caterers do. Although mainly focused on grown–up events, they will cater for kids’ parties as well.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Three paediatricians make up the

childcare speciality at this well–equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped paediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Operating in Vietnam since 1989, this clinic is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. An internationally experienced general medical and pediatric team will meet the preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs of your child. Emergency cases managed 24 hours a day. House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL 3 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Up–to–date well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care, alignment and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 3910 4545 info@victoriavn.com www.victoriavn.com Victoria Healthcare is especially committed to paediatrics, and its services for children include general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3825 7750 Diamond Plaza features a top–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options, with KFC and Pizza Hut.

PARKSON PLAZA 35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3827 7614 Over at Parkson Plaza there is a large selection of arcade games to choose from along with a bowling alley, with a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

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Hanoi THE VILLAGE THAT MAKES MIEN

TIME & SPACE

The Village that Makes Mien Within Hanoi’s new city limits, but a good 30km south of what most residents would consider ‘Hanoi’, is the ancient village of Cu Da. 1,000 years old, these days the village is renowned for the thin, jumbled strips of mien (glass noodles) that adorn its old alleyways. Douglas Pyper sets out to untangle the town’s vast history. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

itting on the once picturesque banks of the Nhue River, location and proximity to Hanoi has given Cu Da an illustrious past. From its inception, around the same time as the founding of Hanoi, the town has been associated with great wealth. During Vietnam’s dynastic period, it became connected to the highest levels of Vietnam’s imperial courts. Later on it was home to some of colonial Vietnam’s richest traders — in the 1920s and 1930s the town boasted around 50 French villas. It was also the first town in the north of Vietnam to introduce house numbers, something still rare in 2012. Today’s Cu Da is less celebrated. The winding river that so faithfully served the village for over 900 years is now a dead expanse of black water carrying empty my tom packets downstream. Until a few years ago, the street cleaners would trundle their overloaded carts to the riverbanks and pour the contents over the side, kicking the refuse down into the water. Thankfully this practice has ceased and the rubbish is being taken somewhere less visible. The water, however, remains polluted by chemicals and waste from nearby Hanoi. Walking around the ancient town’s narrow cobbled alleys, peeling French villas, old houses and plethora of archways, you’ll spot Cu Da’s most famous foodstuff — mien — in the most unexpected places: propped up against walls in sheets, hanging off of wooden beams like strips of Rapunzel’s famous locks and even draped over tombstones. It’s said that 50 percent of the village’s residents are employed in the mien industry. Most of the family-run businesses making mien in their backyard use the same homemade machines to produce the sheets. Resembling a cross between a primitive printing press and an industrial ironing machine, they are a mass of bubbling vats and roughly connected tubes, each steaming and dripping their way around the steam-punk apparatus. The finished product is a sticky sheet of mien about 1m by 0.3m, which is rolled directly onto bamboo trays to be taken away and dried around town. The town’s second most famous product is tuong sauce. Wandering into the garden of an old house by the river, visitors are surrounded by large open clay pots and met by friendly staff. Peering inside the pots, unready sauce can be seen bubbling away as it naturally ferments. This family operation produces an

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astonishing 450 litres of the brown, shrimppaste-like sauce, with a 500ml bottle selling for just VND7,000.

All of which would have stood in the way of development, progress and most importantly, bigger houses.

Onwards and Upwards

Timeless Melody

Moving back from the village’s ancient core by the riverfront, the area is a building site of grand new houses, each featuring a minimum of three floors, turrets, a myriad of balconies and large, paved outdoor areas. The newfound wealth that is boosting this isn’t coming from tuong or mien but from compensation. A real estate company has started buying up all the farmland behind the village, apparently to build a host of new high-rise apartments. Quite why anyone would want to move into a high-rise apartment in an ancient village now polluted beyond repair and 30km away from Hanoi is a mystery. The villagers don’t mind, though. To swap a couple of patches of rice paddy for a brand spanking new mega-house is a no brainer in a land and property-mad economy. The families who own these new structures no longer work and what they will do in the future is unclear. One resident claims that the village was offered heritage status, but the residents rejected the offer. If they had accepted, there would have been a raft of restrictions on what could be done with land and property in order to protect the village’s ancient structures and traditions.

These industries, paper housing projects and opulent houses characterise the Cu Da of today, while Cu Da Pagoda represents its origins. Stepping inside the temple compound is like stepping into a large lazy bubble, untouched by the sounds of the outside world. The rhythmic tap-tap-tap of some kind of wooden beater sets the rhythm of the space — floating on top is the sound of an electronic clock chiming out digitised, Big Ben bells. One of the head monks is just back from a study trip to Ho Chi Minh City. He greets us as another clock chimes — less digital, less Big Ben. He refuses to make eye contact with anyone, staring at the floor, the roof, or the walls. His eyes lethargically roam like a medicated lion in a cage. He points at the bench and we know it’s time for us to be seated. As he silently pours out tea, we look awkwardly around. One of our group is particularly anxious not to disrespect him, she hurries and bows, puts her hands together and hisses at us when his back is turned to do the same. The monk points at the tea and we know that we should drink. I ask about this temple, so full of chiming clocks and the sound of wooden beaters. The translator warily translates in a voice

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so soft I feel it can’t possibly penetrate the vibration of beats in the heavy air. Staring at the ground, the monk hears the question, slowly rolls his eyes to the ceiling, and begins to explain: According to legend, the temple was built during the Dinh dynasty around 1,000 years ago. It is said that a prominent official in the dynasty had it constructed in order to attract villagers from Ninh Binh to his new settlement. He became the chief of the village, the founder of the temple and the ancestor of the whole village. Originally, there were three powerful families in the village, all related to the king — Vu, Trinh and Dinh. At that time the Vu family, sometimes called Vo, was the biggest family in Vietnam, long before the rise of the Nguyen. There are still many altars, temples and pagodas around the village dedicated to the ancestors of these three great families. Every couple of minutes the sound of the monk clearing his nose or throat, either inwardly or outwardly, cuts through the thick, awkward air. The rhythm has changed. The wooden beater has been replaced by faint cicadas and the sound of bells has become chanting monks from a CD, or perhaps a cassette. Apart from the common intertwining of Buddhism and Confucian ancestor worship, there are also many other places for worshiping gods in the village. These rituals were brought back from the king’s

court hundreds of years ago by officials living in Cu Da. There are altars for wishing for good weather, another for good farming, another for longevity. In Cu Da Pagoda there is one such altar to give thanks to the gods for all their help and good favour during the year, and to ask for it to continue, an annual ritual that continues to take place. While a mixture of Confucian ancestor worship and Buddhism is the norm in Vietnam, adding Pagan superstitions is not. Addressing this mien-like mesh causes the monk to shows his first signs of humility and humour as his stoic face cracks into a natural laugh. “The rituals [that the people] do to thank the gods are mostly about superstitions,” he smiles. “It’s not about Buddhism or Confucianism. They believe the earth is the god of everything and the father of kings, that’s why people need to thank the gods and the earth.” After this unexpected openness his frown returns and his face is impassive again. When asked about a few ancient sites around town he stares at the floor to his right, points high to the wall on his left, and mumbles a few words. Our devout member is whispering earnestly. “The monk wants to go for lunch,” she says. “Please stop now.” Standing up, the monk hands everyone a book.

“Go home and read this,” he tells us. It turns out to be a book of chants that can be used to show gratitude towards parents. Topical.

Moving to a Different Beat Sitting prettily on the old road that follows the river is a French villa with a small rigidly rectangular balcony jutting out above the doorway. 100 years ago it would have commanded views of the river. Now there is a squat cement construction between it and the water. It was a club for French officers, officials and traders to use. Inside is sparsely furnished and airy. Plain tiles on the floor keep it cool, the original, cracked wooden floorboards of the second floor are visible above our heads. The disharmony of Vina-House blasts out of a TV and sets the tone of the constant to and fro of people moving through the downstairs living room. The house is full of visitors for the 49-day post-death ceremony of its owner. The wife of the deceased bought the house sometime after 1945. Now 84 years old, she’s probably about 5ft standing straight and in her bent repose is about the height of a door handle. She sits on a sidetable rather than a seat, her silver hair held back by a purple strip of material. After she bought the house, five other people appeared claiming to own it, all the brothers of the man she bought it from.

They came from Hanoi and Hai Phong to try and take the prized property back. Over the years, the family had to pay off all five brothers to keep their home. The music from the TV has changed to a farcical piano ditty. Her five children all live elsewhere, so technically she’s the only one who lives there, which seems odd considering there are around 20 people doing domestic activities today: washing dishes, going upstairs for a lie down or a change of clothes, sitting down for a cup of tea, or noisily watching TV. The sound is now a stream of adverts, all of which include a monotonous 4/4 bass beat behind a haberdashery of chatter and sound effects. A mass of dusty products is piled up in a corner: sachets of shampoo, dusters, the left over contents of the old woman’s shop. Finally, someone has silenced the TV and we can all relax a little more. The sound of feet scuffing on tiles, water washing dishes and soft chatter fill the void. Everyone here is Trinh family, direct descendants of one of the village’s three great families. The eldest son, who has been head of the family for 49 days, is proud of the house. “I want to repair it and renovate it, but keep the structure,” he explains. “The house is beautiful and there aren’t many old houses like this. It’s unique.” He could equally have been talking about the whole village.

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Tiêng viêt CUỘC SỐNG TÁI SINH / THỰC KHÁCH BÍ ẨN

CUỘC SỐNG TÁI SINH

Dựa trên ý tưởng làm sống lại những vật bỏ đi, hai người bạn đã biến những chiếc công-tơ-nơ và bất cứ thứ gì có thể được thành một nơi vui chơi mới nhất của thành phố. Viết bởi Ed Weinberg

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öåt trong nhûäng neát quyïën ruä cuãa Saâi Goân laâ quaá trònh chuyïín àöíi nhanh choáng, cuöåc haânh trònh tûâ toâa nhaâ vùn phoâng thúâi kyä thuêåt söë àïën vùn hoáa caâ phï vóa heâ. Nhûng hiïëm khi coá thïí thêëy àûúåc nhûäng sûå khaác biïåt naây hoâa húåp nhau. Nïìn cöng nghiïåp thö sú cuãa thaânh phöë naây – phaãn aánh qua nhûäng chiïëc cöng-tú-nú cuãa Saigon Outcast – cên bùçng búãi möåt thiïët kïë hiïån àaåi vaâ laâ möåt núi cêìn phaãi àûúåc tröng têån mùæt múái tin. Mùåc duâ àõa àiïím naây chûa àûúåc chñnh thûác múã cûãa, nhûng Linh Nguyïîn vaâ Ðoaân Phûúng Haâ quaá haâo hûáng àïí coá thïí giûä noá trong bñ mêåt. Hoå àaä töí chûác möåt bûäa tiïåc nûúáng ngoaâi trúâi úã àoá vaâ röìi laåi möåt bûäa khaác vaâ möåt buöíi thaão luêån vïì vùn hoáa "Tûå laâm" (DIY) maâ hoå àaä töí chûác möåt tuêìn sau àoá. Coá möåt sûå cên bùçng nöíi cöåm nhû nhûäng con bu-löng nùçm trïn nhûäng thanh giaá àúä cöng-tú-nú. Hai ngûúâi chó laâ baån - nhûng laâ nhûäng ngûúâi baån söëng chïët coá nhau. Hoå coá cuâng möåt yá tûúãng, nhû laâ möåt cuöåc hön nhên àûúåc thûåc hiïån úã thiïn àaâng haånh phuác. "Töi gùåp Haâ úã Gameloft. Haâ rêët vui tñnh. Chuáng töi trúã thaânh baån beâ vaâ hiïån taåi chuáng töi quyïët àõnh haäy cuâng laâm möåt caái gò àoá… àiïn röì."

Cũ và Mới Khi chúâ àúåi àïí noái chuyïån vúái Linh vaâ Haâ úã sûå kiïån "Tûå laâm" (DIY), töi bõ dêîn dùæt vaâo möåt baâi thuyïët trònh vïì chuyïín hoáa sinh hoåc - chuyïín àöíi àöång cú dêìu diesel thaânh dêìu diesel sinh hoåc. Ngûúâi trònh baây, Haãi Nguyïîn, möåt nhaâ dên töåc hoåc, àaä nghiïn cûáu vïì thanh thiïëu niïn vuâng Nam California vaâ nhûäng chiïëc xe húi cuãa hoå. Öng giaãi thñch laâm sao tuây biïën laåi taåo ra möåt yá nghôa caá nhên, laâm sao nhu cêìu khaác thûúâng cuãa "Tûå laâm" laåi naãy sinh ra möåt maång xaä höåi, trong trûúâng húåp naây, ngûúâi chuã nhaâ haâng naây sinh laåi naãy sinh yá tûúãng duâng dêìu thûåc vêåt àaä duâng röìi laâm dêìu àöët. Bùçng caách naâo àoá têët caã dûúâng nhû àïìu coá liïn quan. Linh àûáng lïn thuyïët trònh tiïëp theo. "Ban àêìu chuáng töi muöën laâm möåt núi daânh cho ngûúâi ài xe maáy, cho nhûäng ngûúâi chónh sûãa xe maáy, xe maáy cöí. Thay vò dêìu diesel, chuáng töi thñch xùng, xùng tûâ dêíu múä" – cö noái. Möëi liïn kïët theo caãm tñnh vaâ quaá trònh thûåc hiïån chùæc chùæn laâ möåt phêìn thêím myä, Linh vaâ Haâ chuã àöång theo àuöíi yá tûúãng naây. Thay vò mua àöì göî múái, hoå àïën nhûäng baäi phïë liïåu vaâ sûã duång trñ tûúãng tûúång cuãa mònh trïn nhûäng vêåt liïåu cuä. Möåt bïå trûúåt vaán voâng cung àûúåc laâm tûâ nhûäng têëm vaán göî cuä cuãa möåt cùn nhaâ tûâ trûúác chiïën tranh, àûúåc viïìn vaâ gheáp laåi vúái nhau. Cêy cöëi coá sùén úã Thaão Ðiïìn vaâ chùèng cêìn phaãi laâm gò vúái chuáng caã. Nhûäng khöëi àaá dûúái chên laâ tûâ Vuäng Taâu, laâ gaåch phïë liïåu àûúåc gûãi ài Haân Quöëc.

"Chuáng töi muöën àem cuöåc söëng thûá hai cho moåi thûá, möå cú höåi thûá hai àïí àûúåc möåt caái gò àoá töët hún." – Haâ giaãi thñch. Hoå thêåm chñ àaä laâm àiïìu àoá vúái khu àêët, tûâng laâ khu àêìm lêìy giöëng nhû hêìu hïët khu vûåc Thaão Ðiïìn, àaä àûúåc àùæp baãy lúáp àêët tûâ khi hoå bùæt tay laâm vaâo thaáng Tû. Nhûäng chiïëc cöng-tú-nú – biïíu tûúång cuãa Outcast, àûúåc xïëp chöìng lïn nhau thaânh hai têìng nhû nhûäng maãnh gheáp Lego – àaä ài voâng quanh thïë giúái, vaâ vêîn coân nhûäng con dêëu àoáng dêëu maâ hoå coá kïë hoaåch möåt ngaây naâo àoá tòm ra. Nïëu hoå cêìn, hoå coá thïí xïëp chuáng trïn möåt chiïëc xe taãi vaâ àûa chuáng àïën möåt baäi biïín naâo àoá. Khi hoå xïëp chöìng chuáng lïn, moåi ngûúâi nghô: "Nhûäng cöng-tú-nú naây daânh cho ai àoá söëng trong khi xêy caái gò àoá lúán hún – nhûng noá chó nhû vêåy thöi. Dên àõa phûúng noái "Öi, nhûäng ngûúâi treã tuöíi, hoå coá têët caã nhûäng yá tûúãng naây"." – Linh cho hay

Theo Mọi Hướng Outcast vêîn tiïëp tuåc phaát triïín theo nhûäng hûúáng bêët ngúâ. Cöng viïåc vêîn àang tiïëp tuåc úã khu bïëp kiïm quêìy bar, núi maâ Haâ seä súám thûåc haânh caác kyä thuêåt tinh tïë phña Bùæc cuãa cö cho khaách haâng traã tiïìn. Coân coá nhûäng kïë hoaåch cho xûúãng xe maáy vaâ seä coá nhiïìu bûác veä graffiti trïn tûúâng. Ngay caã nhûäng viïåc nhoã cuäng khöng bõ haån chïë cho caác hûúáng phaát triïín thoaãi maái naây – nhû tiïåc BBQ tûå phaát maâ töi tham gia möåt vaâi ngaây sau àoá. Chuáng töi tòm thêëy möåt goác yïn tônh àïí

noái chuyïån, caånh bïn möåt vaâi chöî cheã göî, möåt trong nhûäng núi maâ nguöìn nùng lûúång chaãy qua. Töi hoãi Haâ caái gò laâm cho Outcast khaác biïåt, moåi ngûúâi traã lúâi rêët raânh maåch laâ nùng lûúång. "Töi thêëy khaá kinh ngaåc, búãi vò chó vaâi tuêìn qua, chuáng töi àaä gùåp rêët nhiïìu ngûúâi cuâng chung chñ hûúáng" – cö noái vúái töi. Hoå àang úã xunh quanh chuáng töi àïm nay – àang troâ chuyïån thò möåt ai àoá hoãi tiïëng kïu cuãa ïëch bùçng tiïëng Viïåt nhû thïë naâo. "ÏËch öåp!" – Haâ la lïn trûúác khi quay laåi vúái töi. "Trûúác àêy, chuáng töi àïën nhûäng cêu laåc böå àïm vaâ say meâm úã àoá, chuáng töi chùèng biïët chuát gò vïì nhau… Nhûng moåi ngûúâi àïën àêy vaâ coá nhûäng cuöåc noái chuyïån thêåt sûå, hoå àïën àêy vaâ caám thêëy töët, nhû thïí hoå muöën taåo ra möåt caái gò àoá." Giúâ àêy àiïìu naây laâ quan troång nhêët àöëi vúái cuöåc söëng cuãa hoå, möåt con àûúâng voâng thöng minh ài vaâo thïë giúái tûúãng tûúång, thêëm àêîm trong nhûäng tiïìm nùng chûa àûúåc khaám phaá. Ngay bêy giúâ, caã hai àïìu khöng muöën chuyïën phiïu lûu ngûâng laåi. "Coá möåt söë giaá trõ khöng thay àöíi, giúâ àêy töi vêåt löån vúái cuöåc söëng, cuäng nhû, töi biïët cuöåc söëng coá thïí cho töi caái gò, töi khöng nghô àïën tûúng lai. Töi söëng cuöåc söëng töi nhû thïë naâo laâ cuãa ngaây mai. Töi múã tuã laånh, xem trong àoá coá gò, vaâ cöë gùæng laâm àûúåc möåt bûäa ùn ngon nhêët tûâ àoá." – Haâ noái khi töi cöë gùæng àïì cêåp túái möåt tûúng lai khöng chùæc chùæn. Saigon Outcast nùçm úã 188 Nguyïîn Vùn Hûúãng, Thaão Ðiïìn, Q2

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THUC KHÁCH BÍ ÂN

Từ những khẩu phần ăn nhỏ nhắn tinh tế pha trộn các nền ẩm thực với nhau đến bữa ăn thịnh soạn trong quán bar, nhà phê bình của chúng tôi sẵn sàng tăng thêm vài kg cho niềm vui ăn uống của bạn. Hình ảnh bởi EJ Chung

Xu 75 HAI BÀ TRƯNG, Q1. ĐT: 3824 8468

ang troång vaâ xa hoa, Xu taách biïåt. Möåt quêìy bar daâi dûúái sûå chó huy cuãa nhûäng ngûúâi pha chïë rûúåu taâi ba úã têìng dûúái laâ möåt neát quyïën ruä tûác thúâi. Nhûng chuáng töi àïën àêy laâ cho thûác ùn, do vêåy chuáng töi tiïën lïn lêìu vaâo khu vûåc ùn töëi vúái khöng khñ thên mêåt vaâ aánh saáng nheå nhaâng. Tûå haâo vúái sûå kïët húåp töët giûäa êím thûåc Viïåt Nam vúái phong caách nêëu ùn nûúác ngoaâi, vaâ vúái niïìm yïu thñch daânh cho nhûäng núi lên cêån nhû Square One vaâ Blanchys Tash, chuáng töi kyâ voång cao úã núi naây. Moán cocktail Manhattan chñnh xaác laâ moán töi thñch – noá cên bùçng, vúái möåt chuát võ ngoåt cuãa rûúåu vermouth vaá sûå kñch thñch ùn laânh maånh. Rêët haâi loâng vúái moán cocktail naây, moán khai võ cuãa chuáng töi àïën; chuáng töi choån moán chaâ gioâ thõt boâ phi-lï vaâ nhûäng öí baánh mò keåp thõt mini nöíi tiïëng. Moán chaã gioâ thò tûúi ngon cuâng vúái thõ boâ vaâ nhûäng loaåi rau thúm àaåt tiïu chuêín, vaâ khöng may laâ phêìn ùn naây cuäng khöng nhiïìu. Moán nûúác söët hoisin ài keâm laâm tùng tñnh sùæc saão cêìn thiïët cho moán, nhûng sau böën miïëng chaã gioâ beá tñ, chuáng töi cöë gùæng nhúá laåi võ thõt

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boâ nhû thïë naâo. Baánh mò keåp thõt mini, nhû moåi khi, thêåt tuyïåt vúâi. Khöng cêìn thiïët phaãi bònh luêån gò thïm úã àêy. Moán chñnh cuãa chuáng töi xuêët hiïån vaâ chuáng töi khöng thïí giuáp àûúåc gò ngoaâi viïåc bõ êën tûúång. Thõt boâ om me tröng coá veã khöng chï vaâo àêu àûúåc vaâ nïëu töi nïëu töi coá möåt cêy thûúác úã àêy, coá thïí noái khoaãng caách giûäa böën miïëng thõt boâ mïìm tûúng tûå nhau laâ chñnh xaác bùçng nhau. Töi tröng chúâ võ me chua gêy kinh ngaåc, nhûng noá chó vûâ àuã àïí nhêån biïët àoá laâ me. Baãn thên thõt boâ àûúåc nêëu thêåt àeåp, mïìm maåi taách rúâi tûâng miïëng. Bñ àoã nheå nhaâng vaâ ngoåt ngaâo, möåt chuát naâo noá laâm mêët sûå chuá yá cuãa chuáng töi lïn moán thõt, coân rau caãi bok choy coá võ khöng nöíi tröåi àïën nöîi chó cêìn chúáp mùæt thöi laâ baån coá thïí boã lúä noá. Chùæc chùæn cêìn nhiïìu cuá hñch hún Caác moán traáng miïång úã Xu töët hún hïët nïn miïu taã laâ "nhûäng mêíu". Phaãi thûâa nhêån rùçng, chuáng coá kñch thûúác cúä bùçng nhûäng con tem bûu àiïån, Võ cuãa chuáng laâ phêìn ngon nhêët, nhûng moán trûáng sûäa sö-cö-la trùæng húi nhaåt vaâ cheâ tröi nûúác laâ möåt baãn sao cuäng nhûäng gò töi àaä ùn trïn àûúâng phöë. Moán baánh sö-cö-la àen vaâ keåo mïìm cuâng möåt laát tùæc thò tuyïåt vúâi, nhûng theo töi chuáng cêìn phaãi to hún möåt chuát àïí àuáng nghôa laâ möåt miïëng.

ÊÍm thûåc Viïåt Nam, nöíi tiïëng cho hûúng võ, thaânh phêìn tûúi ngon àún giaãn vaâ trïn hïët, khaã nùng tiïëp cêån, luön khoá àïí kïët húåp vúái möåt möåi trûúâng cao cêëp, tinh tïë maâ khöng laâm ngûúâi ta nghô "moán naây bïn ngoaâi chó coá giaá 5,000 àöìng". Ðoá cuäng laâ vêën àïì maâ Xu àang vêåt löån. Mùåc duâ khöng khñ nhaâ haâng thên mêåt, sang troång vaâ dõch vuå töët, hoå biïët baån cêìn gò trûúác khi baån kõp biïët mònh cêìn gò, giaá caã so vúái söë lûúång seä luön luön laâ möåt vêën àïì gêy khoá chõu. Vêën àïì quan troång laâ êím thûåc cuãa nhaâ haâng phaãi àuã sûác cêìn thiïët àïí biïën àöíi nhûäng thaânh phêìn quïn thuöåc thaânh möåt thûá gò àoá àaáng nhúá. Trong möåt söë trûúâng húåp, hoå àaä laâm àûúåc. Trong nhûäng trûúâng húåp khaác, hoå nïn boä thïm cöng sûác vaâo.

GIÁ MANHATTAN 110,000 ĐỒNG BÁNH MÌ KẸP THỊT MINI 110,000 ĐỒNG CHẢ GIÒ THỊT BÒ PHI-LÊ 180,000 ĐỒNG BÒ OM ME 320,000 ĐỒNG TRỨNG SỮA SÔCÔ-LA TRẮNG 25,000 ĐỒNG CHÈ TRÔI NƯỚC 25,000 ĐỒNG KẸO SÔ-CÔ-LA MỀM 25,000 ĐỒNG BÁNH SÔ-CÔ-LA ĐEN 25,000 ĐỒNG NHÂN XÉT

10 13 12.5 THỨC ĂN

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Nhà hàng quán bar R.E.D 70-72 NGÔ ĐỨC KẾ, Q1 R.E.D vúái baãng hiïåu aánh àeân àoã àem laåi sinh khñ cho con phöë tûúng àöëi yïn bònh naây, tiïëng öìn voång ra qua caánh cûãa cuäng nhû nhûäng võ khaách kyâ laå cûá tûâ rúâi quaán. Múái thay àöíi tïn quaán tûâ Tröëng Ðoã, quaán nöíi tiïëng úã khu trung têm naây vûâa caãi taåo khu vûåc têìng trïn thaânh möåt khöng gian ùn töëi thên thiïån hún. Vúái thiïët kïë hiïån àaåi maâ khöng quaá khö khan, khu vûåc têìng trïn laâm söëng dêåy quaán bar laâ caái tïn viïët tùæt tûâ Relax (thû giaän), Eat (ùn) vaâ Drink (uöëng). Thûåc àún laâ möåt sûå pha tröån, giúái thiïåu nhûäng moán ngon vaâ vúái möåt sûå chaâo àoán tûâ moán thõt cûâu – möåt loaåi thõt maâ khöng phaãi luác naâo cuäng àûúåc phuåc vuå taåi caác nhaâ haâng úã Saâi Goân. Cho moán khai võ, chuáng töi goåi thùèng moán xuác xñch cûâu vúái tûúng chêëm aioli. Dû àïí chia, àôa thõt xiïn mïìm maåi vaâ toaát ra hûúng võ beáo roä raâng cuãa thõt cûâu. Rûúåu whisky cuãa töi àïën dûúái daång ly chó laâm möåt nguåm, sau möåt vaâi nöî lûåc thay àöíi vaâ böëi röëi, noá cuöëi cuâng àïën trong möåt ly thuãy tinh lúán vaâ cuäng tûâ àoá, töi thêëy vui vò àiïìu àoá. Hûúng võ àùåc trûng cuãa

tûúng chêëm aioli cùæt hûúng võ nheå nhaâng àûúåc têím ûúát gia võ cuãa thõt cûâu, taåo nïn möåt hûúng võ tröån lêîn tuyïåt vúâi. Caái cay nöìng tï tï cuãa whisky thò thêåt àeåp. Töi vêîn nhêët quyïët goåi moán thõt cûâu New Zealand tuyïåt vúâi, moán baánh myâ keåp thõt cûâu cuãa Red, ài cuâng vúái phö-mai dï. Khoai têy chiïn khöng may laåi khöng khaác hún laâ möåt thûá àïí trang trñ trïn dôa vaâ mùåc duâ lúáp thõt nhên chó nhoã hún phêìn töi vûâa ùn trûúác àoá, nhûng noá dêìy vö cuâng, àïí laåi bïn trong möåt chuát höìng höìng vaâ kïët cêëu mõn vaâ àêìy nûúác. Phö-mai dï, möåt àiïím nhêën thuá võ, kïët húåp töët vúái thõt cûâu vaâ laâm tùng thïm troång lûúång cho moán ùn. Caá moán traáng miïång thêåt àaáng buöìn laâ khaá moãng, vúái sûå lûåa choån möåt laâ baánh taåc xoaâi hay taáo vaâ kem. Khöng hûáng thuá mêëy, chuáng töi choån moán baánh taåc taáo vaâ mùåc kïå sûå àùåt phêìn trûúác, noá khöng tïå, thay vò möåt múá höîn àöån coá àûúâng, noá coá võ traái cêy nhû mong àúåi – noá khöng laâm chuáng töi traánh xa, maâ ngûúåc laåi noá thoãa maän sûå them ngoåt cuãa chuáng töi. Noái chung, thûác ùn töët, moán thõt cûâu àaánh

baåi töi hoaân toaân, giaá caã thò húåp lyá vaâ khong khñ thò chaâo àoán. Phuåc vuå thónh thoaãng khöng töët, nhûng moåi ngûúâi àïìu thên thiïån vaâ chùæc chùæn vúái möåt nhoám baån beâ àöng vaâ nhaåc söëng, núâi naây chùæc chùæn coá thïí laâ möåt núi tuyïåt vúâi cho möåt buöíi töëi ài chúi, vaâ cho caã thûác ùn.

MỖI THANG ĐIỂM CHO THỨC ĂN, TRANG TRÍ VÀ PHỤC VU DỰA THEO THANG ĐIỂM TỪ 0 ĐẾN 15 13 – 15 = đặc biệt đến hoàn hảo 10 – 12.5 = rất tốt đến tuyệt 8 – 9.5 = tốt đến rất tốt 5 – 7.5 = khá tới tốt 0 – 4.5 = kém tới khá BÀI VIẾT NÀY CÓ MỤC ĐÍCH ĐÓNG GÓP XÂY DỰNG TÍCH CỰC

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12 10 11

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The Final Say DEAD HEAT / ON THE STOOL

The World According to Me With increasing numbers of people posting photos of themselves online, narcissism, or excessive self-interest in our own appearance, is huge in Vietnam. But why? Vu Ha Kim Vy explains

’ve got more than 250 friends on Facebook, of whom about 10 people like taking photos of themselves and then posting the images online. This trend has been around for quite some time and has spread like wildfire among the younger community. Even thirty-somethings have become narcissistic and have fallen in line, taking photos of themselves through many mediums — cameras, phones, iPads — and often asking their friends to take photos of them. As long as they’re in the picture and have the opportunity to post online, they’re happy.

Confidence As someone who finds looking at photos of others just not all that interesting, I ask myself why. I’m on the threshold of turning 30 and accept that today’s youth are better dressed, more attractive, and far more stylish. I even remember what I used to wear as a teenager — dressing up meant putting on a pair of jeans, a t-shirt and having long black hair. These days, teenagers have got far more choice, have a range of popular cultures to choose from, and can easily learn more about styles and trends from overseas. As a result, they seem to want to put it all on record and keep attractive images of themselves. It helps them become more self-confident.

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“In the past I was fairly timid and often avoided people taking photos of me,” confesses university student Han. “This was because I didn’t feel particularly attractive. Now I’m okay with it all. I feel better looking and really have no problems with photos any more.” For those who are self-confident, taking and posting images of themselves is one of personal preference. Mai, a 26-year-old employee of a computer game company, recognizes that she is “not as pretty as some of her friends”. However, “When we take photos it’s fun, I love it. And if I see myself looking attractive in photos and than in real life, I’m really happy.” “So why do you have to post the images online?” I ask. “Putting the photos on the internet makes them even more eye-catching, more attractive,” she replies. “Just having them standing up in your room is boring.” In contrast to Han and Mai, Linh, who is presently working in the banking sector, is often involved in fashion shoots, despite not officially being a model. “I’m often involved in photo shoots because I’m passionate about fashion,” she says. “And I save all my photos in one location — Lookbook. Even there I only put the best images. I also have a number of photographer friends who ask me to model

for them, or be a subject in their photos.” She explains why she often poses in photos. “Although I like it when photos look natural, when necessary I will put on the right pose and facial expression to fit with the subject of the photo.” While she doesn’t accept that she’s addicted to being photographed, she seems to show off and post images of herself almost daily on Facebook.

Why Facebook? Regardless of how often you take photos and how good or bad they are, why do people feel the need to post their photos on Facebook? “I want to share them with everyone,” says Han. “What are you sharing in the photo when there’s only you there,” I reply, perhaps a little aggressively. “Because I like it,” she says. “I want everyone to see how beautiful I am!” Mai is even more direct. “If you have a beautiful photo of yourself, why shouldn’t you show it off? Everyone wants others to see them as being attractive, and wants to be praised.” This is a typically Vietnamese response. If you have something that looks good, show it off to the world, let everyone see. And if

there’s something bad? Sweep it under the carpet, cover it up. Adds Han: “Everyone else is doing it. So why shouldn’t I? I’m only following what everyone else does.” For me, this is another typical characteristic of Vietnamese people. Let’s take a restaurant in this city. Any restaurant. If it starts becoming busy, then suddenly it will get even busier. It’s the, ‘if other people go there, then I must go there, too, mentality’. It’s the same with clothing and fashion. If some people start to wear

a particular design of jeans or shirt, then gradually this spreads until everyone, even those making their living off the street, are wearing the same clothes. In general, in a period where people like show off, and in particular show off photos of themselves on Facebook, what’s happening now is only normal. It’s just everyone following the latest craze, becoming narcissistic. And with that in mind, I am now off to look at myself in the mirror and snap a photo.

STRIKING A POSE The five most popular places in Saigon to get your photograph taken: 1) Starlight Bridge, The Crescent 2) Sky Garden, Q7 3) Notre Dame, Q1 4) Phu My Bridge 5) Thu Thiem Bridge

answered. Tran shrugged. Clearly, the vagaries of a woman’s behaviour were beyond his ability to explain. “Why are we here?” Kemp asked. “Go Dakao Ward police station,” Duong answered. Then he fished in his pocket for a cigarette, pushing across the table at the same time the bill for his breakfast.

At the Station

CRIME FICTION SERIAL

Dead Heat In our third instalment of serialised original crime ﬁction by English author Rob Marsh, Russell Kemp, an ex-captain in the South African Police Service and now a private detective, has reluctantly come to Vietnam. He is looking for a girl named Nguyen Hai Hien who has gone missing after leaving Johannesburg with her South African boyfriend. To this end he has enrolled the help of an ex-detective named Tran Hai Duong… Part 3: A Sister Found, a Sister Lost District 1 Tran Hai Duong had moved more swiftly than Kemp had expected. Twelve hours after their first meeting he had summoned Kemp to a restaurant in District 1. The 60-year-old Vietnamese ex-detective

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was small, but built like an ox. He was sitting at a table out on the pavement finishing off a bowl of beef pho when Kemp arrived. Nearby, was the basilica of Our Lady of The Immaculate Conception and across the road a small park, busy with locals. As Kemp sat down Duong looked up from his food long enough to wave a

chopstick in the air. “Where girl?” he asked. The ‘girl’ was Nguyen Ba Hoa the twin sister of Nguyen Hai Hien, the woman Kemp had been sent to Vietnam to find. But Ba Hoa had little faith in ex-detective Tran; or himself, for that matter, Kemp suspected. “She decided not to come,” Kemp

Police Captain Le, the person Kemp and Duong had come to see, was working at his desk in his shirt sleeves, his suit jacket hanging on the back of his chair when the two men entered his office. The detective waved an imperious hand at the chairs in front of his desk. “Seat, please,” he said. Waiting for their audience to begin, Kemp took in the Captain’s disordered room. It could have been a policeman’s work station anywhere in the world: the same dirty coffee cups, the same stacks of dog-eared files, the same notice-boards bursting with the same out-of-date memos. When Captain Le finally deemed to look up he spoke sharply to Tran, and Kemp had the distinct impression that he was annoyed about something. Tran, however, showed not the slightest hint of concern. After what seemed like a long and angry diatribe, the Captain pulled open a drawer and threw a thin folder on the desk. “Woman found in Le Van Tam Park five weeks ago. Never identified,” Duong said. “We look at pictures.” The first photograph showed the victim lying on her back and the first thing that struck Kemp was how much she resembled Nguyen Ba Hoa. The body, it was clear, had been carefully set out: arms straight out to the side, ankles pressed together one on top of the other. What was the killer trying to depict? A cross? A crucifixion scene? Then he noticed the blood and the vivid slash across the throat and felt himself go light-headed, felt the colour drain from his face. The Captain, who had been watching Kemp’s face with interest, noticed the change in him; said something in Vietnamese. Kemp’s heart was racing. Although he was no stranger to violence and suffering he felt his stomach lurch. Eventually, he managed to nod his head. They had found Nguyen Hai Hien. “How did you know?” he asked Duong a moment later. The other shrugged. “Not know. Made calls last night. Heard about this case. Just guess,” he said. Captain Le now looked even more agitated, if that were possible. He again spoke rapidly in Vietnamese. “He want speak sister,” Duong said, pulling out his phone.

The Body Nguyen Ba Hoa collapsed at the police station when she saw the pictures of her sister, but rallied enough to accompany the two men to the morgue where she formally identified the body. Afterwards she was collected by a friend who took her back to Saigon Pearl so that she could telephone her parents. Kemp and Tran, however, stayed on to speak to the pathologist. The pathologist was an elderly Frenchman and he and Duong were longtime acquaintances it seemed. “You look like you had a hard night, Duong,” the doctor said when they walked into his office. “Maybe need see doctor?” The pathologist grinned. “If you'd care to drop dead, I can look at you now.” Not such a bad idea. Clearly, the man

“A sharp knife. Possibly a cut-throat razor. Two cuts. The first was delivered from right to left.” had an appealing bedside manner. Then the doctor became serious, turned his attention to his case notes. “I remember this one,” he said. “Why?” Kemp asked. “Imported clothes; expensive shoes: not your ordinary dead girl. My best estimate is that she died about seven or eight hours before she was brought in. Cause of death was loss of blood from the cut throat. Obviously, she’d bled like a pig, but she'd have gone very quickly. There were no defensive injuries.” “And the weapon?” Kemp asked. “A sharp knife. Possibly a cut-throat razor. Two cuts. The first was delivered from right to left.” — The doctor made a grandiloquent gesture in the air with his hand, like a conductor waving a baton — “The second from left to right, which suggests a right-handed person.” “Had she been beaten? Were there any other signs of assault?” “No.” “Is there anything else you can tell us?” The doctor considered the question for

a moment. “She was one point five metres tall and the cuts were delivered slightly downwards. That suggests that her assailant was considerably taller — six foot two or three, at a guess. Either that or he was standing on a chair.” He paused long enough for his little jest sink in, then let his smile fade. “I suggest you speak to the lab about the blood and tissue work. Maybe they can tell you something I can’t.” It was as they were leaving that the doctor remembered something else. “Oh, there is one other thing,” he said. “She wasn’t killed where her body was found.” “How know?” Duong asked. “That’s easy: not enough blood at the crime scene.” It turned out that Nguyen Hai Hien’s body had been discovered by an early morning exerciser in Le Van Tam Park along Dien Bien Phu in District 1. This was where the police had conducted a desultory investigation that had produced neither hint nor trace of the killer. After they left the mortuary Duong and Kemp went straight to the park, taking with them photographs of the victim. It was an old gardener who gave them their first clue. Duong and the old man spent five minutes in conversation with Duong looking more and more surprised by the second. Eventually, he turned to Kemp. “This man see body get put here.” “What? Why didn’t he tell the police?” “Say it not his business.” Despite himself, Kemp gave the old man a hard look. “Then why did he tell you?” he asked. Tran again spoke rapidly to the old man. Finally, he tapped his head. “Conscience get better of him.” “What did he see?” “Saw killer man ride off. Not face, only hair. Young man, pale hair.” “You mean blond?” “Yes, blond. Say killer man westerner, not Vietnamese,” Duong said.

Later That Night… It was just before midnight when the young, blond-haired man placed a woman’s body on the bank of the Saigon River. Across the water was a golf driving range, brightly lit, and nearby a bridge from which came the swish of an endless stream of motorcycles. Look out for Episode 4 in our October issue. This is a work of fiction. All names, characters and incidents are invented. Rob Marsh is the author of 30 published books (both fiction and non-fiction). He has a special interest in matters crime-related and is the author of Famous South African Crimes and With Criminal Intent: the changing face of crime in South Africa. He currently lives in Ho Chi Minh City.

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148 | Word September 2012

Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 - F3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Q3 - A4, A5, B3, B4, C2, C3, D1, D2, E1 Nguyen Du, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C5, D3, D5 Nguyen Hue, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Nguyen Huu Canh, Q1 - A7, B7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 - C6 Nguyen Son Ha, Q3 - E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 - E7, F7 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 - E5, F4 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 - E4, F4, F5 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 - C2, C3, D2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 - A5, A6, B4, B5, C3, C4, D2, D3, E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Thong, Q3 - B1, C1, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien, Q3 - D1, E2 Nguyen Trai, Q1 - E2, E3, F2 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 - A7, B6 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 - D5 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 - A4 Pasteur, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, D6, E6 Pham Hong Thai, Q1 - E4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1, Q3 - A3, A4, B4, B5 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 - E3, E4, E5, F2, F3 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1 - E1, F1 Phan Boi Chau, Q1 - D5 Phan Chau Trinh, Q1 - D5 Pho Duc Chanh, Q1 - E5, F5, F6 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 - A4, A5 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 - D2, D3, E2 Thai Van Lung, Q1 - B6, C6 Thi Sach, Q1 - C6, C7 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 - D4, D5 Thu Thiem Tuunnel, E7 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 - A6, B6, B7, C7, D7, E7 Ton That Dam, Q1 - D6, E6 Ton That Thiep, Q1 - D6 Ton That Tung, Q1 - E2 Tran Cao Van, Q1 - A5, B4 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 - E4, E5, F3, F4 Tran Quoc Thao, Q3 - A1, A2, B2, B3, C3 Tran Quoc Toan, Q3 - A2, B2 Truong DInh, Q1, Q3 - B1, B2, C2, C3, D3, D4, E4 Truong Quyen, Q3 - A3, A4 Tu Xuong, Q3 - A3, B2, C1 Vo Thi Sau, Q3 - A2, A3, B1, B2, C1 Vo Van Kiet ( East West Highway) - E6, F5, F6 Vo Van Tan, Q3 - B4, C3, C4, D2, E1, E2 Vuon Chuoi, Q3 - D1 Yershin, Q1 - E4, F5

uoi Ch on Vu

Alexandre De Rhodes, Q1 - B5, C4 Au Trieu, Q1 - D6, E6 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 - B1, C2, D3 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 - D3, E2, E3 Bui Vien, Q1 - F3, F4 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1, Q3 - C1, D2, D3 Calmette, Q1 - E5, F5 Cao Thang, Q10 - E1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 - B6 Co Bac, Q1 - F4 Cong Huynh, Q1 - E1, E2, F2, F3 De Tham, Q1 - E4, F4 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Q3 - A4, B2, B3, C1, C2, D1 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 - A5, A6 Do Quang Dau, Q1 - F3 Doan Van Bo, Q4 - F6 Dong Du, Q1 - C6, D6 Dong Khoi, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Hai Ba Trung Q1 - A3, A4, B5, C6, C7 Ham Nghi, Q1 - E5, E6, E7 Han Thuyen, Q1 - C5 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 - D6, D7 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 - D6, E6 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3 - C2, D2 Hoang Dieu, Q4 - F6, F7 Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Q1 - C4, D4 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 - D6, E5 Ky Con, Q1 - E4, E5, F5 Ky Dong, Q3 - A1, B1 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 - E5 Le Duan, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C4, C5 Le Lai, Q1 - E3, E4, E5 Le Loi, Q1 - C6, D5, D6 Le Ngo Cat, Q3 - C1, C2 Le Quy Don, Q3 - B2, B3 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 - B6, B7, C5, C6, D4, D5, E4 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 - E4, E5 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 - E3 Luong Huu Khanh, Q1 - E2 Luu Van Lang, Q1 - D5 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 - A1, B1, C1 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 - B6, C5, C6, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 - A4, A5, B5, B6 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 - C6, D6 Me Linh Circle, Q1 - D7 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, E5, E6 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 - D6, D7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 - B2, B3, C2 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 - B7 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 - D4, D5, E4 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 - A6, A7 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 - E5, E5, F4, F5

g Sa Truon ng Sa H oa

CENTRAL HCMC

NA M

hinh Thang Ly C

Street Index

Va n

{crossword}

Photo of the Month

Answers on page 4

AMERICAN KNOWLEDGE 1

20 22 27

17. King of tragedy

47. WKRP, e.g.

21. Earthen pot

51. MS. markers

23. Web-footed flier

52. Pisa dough

24. Nepal's locale

53. Hot pot or pepper pot

26. "That's all, folks!" voice

55. Do Zen

27. Ancient Aegean Sea region

59. "Out!"

28. City on the Rhine

63. Tennis great Lendl

30. Water balloon sound

64. Depictions of fruits, say

31. Emulate Demosthenes

67. Bog

32. Org. that "tracks" Santa

68. The Jetson boy

33. Airborne pests

69. Theater schlepper

35. Highland/lowland separator

70. Animal with horns

40. Schooner fillers

71. Witherspoon of "Legally

41. Witch's blemish

Blonde"

44. Gill opening

72. Devout

48. Pencil's end

50 53

45 48

15. Transistor developers

46. Rebounds per game, e.g.

52 55

45. C.S.A. state

12. "Miracle" team of 1969

43. Nobelist Bohr

11. Tom Joad, for one

42. Vamp Theda 9

51 54

Do you own a photograph that would look go od here? Email it to christine@ wordhcmc.co m

by Nikita Evdokimov

49. Act the snitch ACROSS

19. Rage, e.g., onstage

DOWN

50. Auction off

1. NaCl

20. Ratfinks

1. Call at home?

54. Raise, as an anchor

5. "Waiting for Lefty"

22. It's a long story

2. Dubya, to Yale

55. Charades, essentially

playwright

25. Veg out

3. Composer Schifrin

56. Wickedness

10. Adventure hero

26. Splatter protector

4. Flipper freezers

57. Like some turkey meat

Swift

29. Louisiana senator, 1948-87

5. Grand ___ Opry

58. Land of Molly Bloom

13. Jai ___

34. Veg out

6. Slip into

60. Woodstock hairdo

14. Detective's skill

36. Something to gloss over?

7. Omelet base

61. Bridal accessory

15. Lie in the sun

37. Moses' older brother

8. Pro football's Bald Eagle

62. Catch sight of

16. Like some mirrors

38. Looped handle

9. Group of fish

65. ___ Alamos, N.M.

18. ___ interview

39. Bochco TV drama

10. Curbside call

66. NaOH or KOH

150 | Word September 2012

{pop lingo quiz}

2) Answers on page 2 9) What was the name of the Long Island resort in the 1975 film Jaws? 10) Thomas Watson realised in 1943 that there was a world market for what product? 11) Smith's Bon-Bons changed their name to what after 1840? 12) What dance traditionally begins and ends the show at The Moulin Rouge in Paris? 13) What is Margaret Thatcherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s maiden name? 14) In 2002, a TV advert for what drink

featured a cat called Tom going clubbing? 15) What famous soul artist was once the drummer of Harold Melvin and the Blue Notes? 16) What animal always gives birth to same sex twins? 17) What was Paul McCartney's first solo album called? 18) What was Aha's first album called? 19) Who won the best actress Oscar in 1959 for the movie Room at the Top? 20) Into what body of water does the Yukon River flow?

WIN !! PRIZES

The first three people to send all correct answers to christine@wordhcmc.com will win a free 10-hour Vietnamese language course at Vietnamese Language Studies Saigon (VLS). *

Trivia Buff 1) In what movie did Jim Carey play Lloyd Christmas? 2) What football club did Alex Ferguson manage before joining Manchester United? 3) To the nearest two years how long does it take Haley's Comet to reappear? 4) Shane Fenton is better known as? 5) Who did The Harlem Shuffle in 1969? 6) A haboob creates what? 7) What German word meaning 'lightning war' was used in WW2? 8) Who won the 1983 Record of The Year Grammy with Rosanna?

Summertime in Dalat

3) 4) 5) 6) 7) 8) 9)

1) The most respected president of Vietnam throughout history 2) Vietnamese vehicle with three wheels 3) A famous church in District 1 4) The harbour where Ho Chi Minh started his journey of saving Vietnam from foreign domination 5) A place where stamps are sold and from where letters and parcels are sent 6) A speciality (food) of Ho Chi Minh City 7) Old name for Ho Chi Minh City 8) A well-known residential area in District 7 9) A well-known residential area in District 2 *Available for first time winners only and are only applicable to group classes. The scholarships are transferable to new students only. No part of the scholarships is exchangeable for cash or any other prize. The courses must be taken within 6 months.

September 2012 Word | 151

on THE

STOOL

This month we speak to Ross Stewart, the man behind fast films in Vietnam. Photo by EJ Chung

THE PERSON

prove themselves and help develop talent and the film industry here.

Where would you like to live? Preferably on the beach, or on a mountain. Any place I can see long distances.

What’s the hardest part of organising this every year? Getting enough funding for the community events. Surprisingly, running the 48HFP in Vietnam is more expensive than other countries since there are a lot of extra charges and permits to apply for. We also don’t receive any local or international grants, so we are at the mercy of the private sector who expect a lot in return.

What is your idea of happiness? Seeing other people excel. Just trying to work out how to do that myself! Who are your favourite heroes of fiction? Lately, they have been anti-heroes because they are far more interesting — Donnie Darko, Leon (The Professional) and Bender. Your favourite musician? Diplo is pretty cool. Not sure about his Snoop Lion collaboration, though. What do you most value in your friends? Honesty and flexibility. I think it’s very important, especially when living in Vietnam. What is it you most dislike? Travelling with lots of other people on buses and planes. I much prefer to go by motorbike. What historical figures do you most despise? John Howard (ex-prime minister of Australia) and Hitler… Oh wait… they are the same person! How would you like to die? Happy… Enough said… What is your motto? If it can’t be done, then try it… (I’m an Aries)

THE BUSINESS How did you go from teaching English to bringing the 48 Hour Film Project to Vietnam? Teaching the same things all the time was getting a little boring, and I needed a change. And I kept hearing students saying that they would rather be artists/designers/ filmmakers, but there was no money in it (and their parents would die if they did). So I started the 48HFP to give them a chance to

152 | Word September 2012

Are there any guidelines, in terms of censorship, that the films cannot touch on? Films are not allowed to present strong supernatural themes, nudity, and violence or say anything negative about the authorities or country. Also, filmmakers are not able to reveal Vietnam state secrets. Who, in your opinion, are the better filmmakers in the past two years of this project — the Vietnamese or foreigners? That’s a difficult one since only about five percent of our filmmakers are foreigners and most of them are involved in the film/TV industry. However, I think both groups present very strong teams and very different ways of seeing life in Vietnam. What advice can you give filmmakers this year? Be organised. Know who your team members are and what their roles are. Also, appoint one person to lead otherwise there will be too many arguments every time a decision needs to be made. What is your goal for the 48HFP in Vietnam? The goal is to engage people. To help people meet new friends and make new networks. More importantly, to give anyone a chance to be part of a film. Experience is not necessary — all you need is a free weekend to spend with your friends and maybe a few beers! Sleep is optional.