Word Ho Chi Minh City August 2012 by Word Vietnam

Chuyên đề du lịCh, ẩm thựC hO ChI mInh CIty EdItIOn

AuGuSt 2012

THE BUCK STOPS HERE

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RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PRE-SCHOOL

PRIMARY

SECONDARY

Choi Da Song's dream is to work for UNICEF allowing her to travel around the world helping people. RISS will help Choi Da Song's dream come true.

Applications for RISS IB Diploma Scholarships are now open for 2012 - 2013 74 Nguyen Thi Thap St, Binh Thuan Ward, Dist 7, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam (+84-8) 3773 3171 - ext 121 (+84-8) 3773 3176 www.rissaigon.edu.vn admission@rissaigon.edu.vn

Contents

wordhcmc.com

AUGUST 2012

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FEATuRES 006 | The Prelude THE TALK 009 | The Big Five 010 | Just In

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THE ACCIDENTAL ENGRAVER

Nguyen Thang’s life is dedicated to etching memories for life

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A dollar goes a long way here in the city

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018 | Word of Mouth 020 | Calendar 022 | Overscene

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Inspired by his wife’s battle with bowel cancer, Nick Lee aims to raise awareness of the deadly disease

028 l Confessions of an English Teacher A group of young teachers disclose their antics in the classroom

054 l Mystery Diner Find out if seafood restaurant Song Ngu is a hit or miss

2 | Word August 2012

AROuND THE CLOCK

Time to set your alarm for midnight because that’s when the party’s about to begin

CACHE THE STASH

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Treasures are hidden in nooks and crannies all over town

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THE AMAZING RACE

The popular reality show hits Vietnam

INSIDER 026 l Dressed For Awareness

REDISCOVERING LuANG PRABANG Delve into this northern Lao city

012 | The Buzz 016 | In the Papers

THE BuCK STOPS HERE

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ELF YOuRSELF

From wizards to faeries to magic, immerse yourself in this mystical cafe

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THE PHARMACIST

With people’s lives in her hands, a local chemist speaks about her job

COLuMNS 084 l Destination Zero 100 l Foodie Corner 106 l Cafe Critique 112 l Road Rules 114 l Decks 'n Drums TIENG VIET HANOI 142 l The Soundman Want to learn the drums, he’s your man

142 l A Sum of All Parts A story of four generations at a camera shop

FINAL SAY 152 l White Male Syndrome A guy’s view on his life in Saigon

Trivia Buff Answers

152 l Dead Heat

See pXXX for the original puzzle

South African detective Russell Kemp has finally arrived in Saigon

1) Space Jam 2) Cinzano 3) The Black Crook In 1866 4) Eva Longoria 5) Harrods (1898) 6) Levi 501's in 10 sizes 7) Birmingham 8) The Adriatic 9) Snooker 10) Keith Richards 11) Pinball Wizard 12) Henry Cooper 13) K 14) The Q Tips 15) Baton Rouge 16) Gale 17) Lubbock 18) Table Tennis 19) 50 Km Walking Race 20) Beards

152 l On the Stool Interior design guru, Bruno de Caumont, speaks out

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© tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của ấn phẩm Word (ho Chi minh city và hanoi) của C.ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở hữu trí tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng hòa Xã hội Chủ nghĩa Việt nam.

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Crossword Answers See pXXX for the original puzzle. Puzzle by Frank A. Longo. Edited by Will Shortz

Chuyên đề du lịCh & ẩm thựC nhà xuất bản lao động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

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Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 161/CXB-QLXB/ ngày 18/01/2012 Quyết định xuất bản số 250 QĐCN/LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 16/07/2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2012.

The Prelude W

hen we aren’t driving down the streets of Saigon in our Bentley Continentals and wiping the sweat from our brows with VND500,000 notes, we love ourselves a good bargain. In fact, who doesn’t? With that in mind we turned cheapskate this month while significantly improving our pronunciation of, “Cai nay gia bao nhieu tien?” If it couldn’t be purchased for under a dollar, we weren’t interested. There are in fact a large number of substantial purchases you can make for under VND21,000. Ranging from the predictable bevy of food options to transport and much more, we even managed to make our

own fishing rod for a very respectable VND14,000, leaving us just enough over to buy an ice cream while waiting for the line to bite. The quest for the best deal has pushed us to every corner of the city and has allowed us to eat more cheap street food than was strictly necessary. More importantly, it has allowed us to draw the conclusion that with a little creativity and an open mind, life can be pretty good before the buck stops. From dollar deals to yet another side of Ho Chi Minh City, Stephanie Cantrell stayed up way past her bed time to give you the low down on 24/7 Saigon, she even found time to get some hilarious confessions from a group of very

INBOX

young and honest English teachers. All in all, it’s been an eclectic month with a pharmacist talking drugs, a ride from Hanoi to Saigon in little black dresses, and a memorable experience for writer Michael Arnold who put kids entertainment behemoth, KizCiti, to the ultimate test. As ever we look forward to getting your feedback. To make it easier for you, you can now text your comments direct to our managing editor Christine Van. Simply drop her an SMS on 0947 074136 (please refrain from sending drunken texts). Alternatively you can email her on christine@wordhcmc. com. We look forward to hearing from you!

Chuyên đề du lịCh, ẩm thựC hO ChI mInh CIty EdItIOn

AuGuSt 2012

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THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly Design by DH Advertising

DO YOu HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOu WOuLD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OuT AND TOuCH uS EITHER BY EMAIL ON CHRISTINE@WORDHCMC. COM OR BY TEXT ON 0947074 136 — WE’RE NOW AT YOuR FINGERTIPS.

ERRATuM

AQUA BABES IN HONOUR OF THE SEASON, WE HAVE TRAWLED THE STREETS FOR SOME MUST HAVE WATERPROOF MAKE UP TO KEEP YOU LOOKING YOUR INVINCIBLE SELF, COME RAIN OR SHINE

Photos by CHARLES BARNES Styling by JAMES ALLEN Models: TRUONG KIEU DIEM, HEATHER WOODWARD & PHAM PHAN KIM CHI

Super Matte Loose Powder: VND550,000 HD Blush: VND814,000 Aqua Lip: VND400,000 All from Makeup Forever

72 | Word July 2012

Makeup Forever (L1-56 57 Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1) Givenchy (Ground Fl. Parkson, 35Bis – 45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1)

STAYING SINGLE

(Meet the Parents, July 2012) Thank you Word for saving my life. After reading your article Meet the Parents I will never again entertain the idea of having a serious relationship with a Vietnamese girl. I can't thank you enough. — Patrick

July 2012 Word | 73

WALLPAPER (Aqua Babes, July 2012) The fashion photos for Aqua Babes are great and are currently stuck on my wall. Can we have more like those? And can you use vanilla yogurt instead of water next time? Thanks! — Loyal reader

6 | Word August 2012

(Saigon Bucket List, July 2012) We would like to apologise for an error we made in the article, The Sting. Dr Lague is actually from CMI — Centre Medical International — not Central Medical Institute. We hope that this error did not cause any inconvenience.

ALL FIRED uP

(Burn Baby Burn, July 2012) What a great article and read. The writer did a good job describing chilli and spicy dishes without making it sound repetitive and boring. I’m a huge chilli fan so was happy to see this article in the mag. — Tracy Nguyen

The Talk

ThE BIG 5 / JUST IN / ThE BUzz / CALENDAr / OVErSCENE

THE

big 1

ThINGS Th INGS TO WATC WATCh h OUT f fO fOr Or T ThIS hIS MONT MONTh h

Chariots of Fire

The cyclo may be dying in Vietnam, but elsewhere it’s making a comeback

og onto the website ecochariots.com or bugbugs.com and you will find two rival, London-based companies offering rides on pedicabs, otherwise known as zero-emission transportation. With fully working lights, hydraulic brakes, gears and seat belts, these 21st century all mod-con rickshaws, pedicabs, cyclos or tuk-tuks, are now a common sight in many of the world’s major cities. Take London, for example, where this eco-transport is proving to be a big hit. Not only can you hail down this calf-muscle powered form of transport all over the West End and the centre of the city, but you can also top up on “all your carbon neutral needs” by hiring the pedicab for your wedding, stag night or hen do. In addition, say the two websites, this humble form of transport acts as a perfect location for outdoor, on-the-street advertising such as the type you may find on buses or taxis.

of the poverty associated with their trade. Then there is the issue of accessibility. For many years you could hop on a cyclo in downtown Ho Chi Minh City and travel the 7km or so to Tan Son Nhat Airport, something that was quite conveniently put to an end when the new international terminal was opened a few years ago. The method was ingenious. Create certain streets, thoroughfares such as Hai Ba Trung or Nguyen Van Troi, where cyclos aren’t allowed to go, and suddenly they lose their utility. In Hanoi a similar game was played. Deemed to ‘block’ the streets in the capital’s historic Old Quarter, the authorities helped set up Du Lich Xanh. Using adapted, electric-powered golf carts, these vehicles noiselessly and effortlessly transport tourists and locals around the city and the sites of West Lake. All making the hardy cyclo increasingly redundant.

Sprucing up the Image

Time for a Revival?

Yet head over to Vietnam and the cyclo truly is the humblest mode of transport around. Forget the bandwagon obsession with all things ‘green’, here the hardy pedicab is the lowest of the low. So low, indeed, that for many of its drivers their vehicle also doubles up as their abode. Such is the reality

But with pollution becoming such an issue in Vietnam’s major metropolises, and xanh (green) now a fashionable word, surely the eco-friendly cyclo may be a solution? Indeed, with some upgrades like dynamopowered lighting, pasting advertising hoardings to the side of the vehicles, meters

8 | Word August 2012

to measure fares and distance, and perhaps even an electric engine to relieve the energy expended by the driver and allow the cyclo to travel at greater speeds, surely the cyclo could once again become a viable form of public transport? Investing into the cyclo industry would also create jobs. To reach such heights, though, the cyclo would need to overcome a range of issues. First is image. For many in Vietnam the cyclo represents the country of the past, the poverty that they are so determined to leave behind. It’s viewed as something for tourists and French colonials, not for Vietnamese. Then there is the sense that due to their unwieldy size and deathdefyingly slow speeds, cyclos cause traffic jams — there are already enough issues here with transportation. And of course, the lack of gears and technological prowess makes the cyclo unattractive for a country speeding down the supertransformation highway. Yet, it is certainly a thought. And with a bit of dedication could become reality. But for such dreams to come to fruition would require the work of a bold entrepreneur and perhaps the support of an NGO or overseas government or two. Because without this, cyclos in Vietnam will truly become a phenomenon of the past.

MIND THE GAP

From 3pm until 5pm on Aug. 11, to mark the third anniversary of the LIN Center for Community Development, a community event titled Narrow the Gap will be held at Ky Hoa Hotel (238, Ba Thang Hai, Q10). Aiming to provide a fun and meaningful way to connect people who care about their community with organisations addressing important causes while raising funds to support LIN’s work, the event will include 150 to 200 representatives from local non-profits, INGOs, local and international businesses, individual volunteers and philanthropists. For more info, contact info@LINvn.org or call 3824 6091

3 uP

From Aug. 29 until Sep. 3 the first Vietnam International Hot Air-Balloon Festival will take place in Phan Thiet under the theme Binh Thuan — Sunshine and Blue Sea. The first of its kind, there will be an expected attendance of up to 30 balloons piloted by around 50 balloonists from around the world; each balloon is up to 30m in height and between 16m and 18m in diameter. All of the teams involved will perform twice a day between 6am until 8.30am, and between 4pm until 6pm, but there will also be anchored balloons on show to allow spectators a closer look. The event will include many other activities and performances for guests to take part in. The festival celebrates Binh Thuan’s liberation and the 20th anniversary of the province’s re-establishment.

CONICAL CASH

Those who have taken photos featuring non la (conical hats) during their travel or stay in Vietnam can now stand a chance to win cash prizes — VND20 million for first place, VND10 million for second and VND5 million for third. The photo contest is entitled Chiec Non Que Huong (Vietnam Conical Hat) and submissions should be sent to www.nonlavietnam.com. Photos will be accepted until Aug. 28 and the best 100 photos will be displayed at the award ceremony on Sep. 15. More info can be found at the above website.

BRANDON BLOCK

On Aug. 4 house legend Brandon Block is taking time off from a busy international schedule to bring his own brand of dance to Blanchy’s Tash (95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1) from 9pm. Starting in 1985 spinning funk and soul, it wasn't until the Acid House in 1988 that his career really took off with regular gigs at the now legendary Zig Zag parties. Since then Brandon has gone from strength to strength building a reputation as a true pioneer of the dance scene. He has played at legendary clubs such as Ministry of Sound, Turnmills, Miss Money Pennies, Golden, Republica and Progress, and has performed around the world. Tickets are free before 9pm and VND200,000 after, but on the plus side, the entrance fee does include a free bottle of Peroni

A TAPAS AFFAIR A Tapas and Wine Festival is coming to Kumho Link (39 Le Duan, Q1) every weekend in August with chef master classes. From 5pm to 7pm on Friday and from 12pm to 7pm on Saturday and Sunday throughout the month. This will be a great time to sample all the restaurants that will be highlighting their food in tapas style within bamboo booths placed at the Point. At the same time a Craft fair will showcase exclusive designs and run workshops every Sunday. Integrated master classes will also be performed by celebrity chefs from 2pm to 6pm in half-hour slots on Saturdays and Sundays. Vouchers can be bought for VND100,000 which includes five coupons worth VND20,000 each. Every item of tapas and wine equals one coupon and the vouchers themselves can be bought at kiosks at every entrance to The Link.

August 2012 Word | 9

Just In the talk

ALL SCOOT uP As of the end of July, Saigon Scooter Centre has taken up residence in An Phu with a new retail outlet (1 Thao Dien, Q2). With a large stock of accessories ranging from Italian helmets, riding gear and books, to helmet cams, body armour and raingear, the store pretty much caters for your every motorbike-related whim. And fear not, the iconic scooters themselves will be on sale. The centre is also offering free pick up and drop off service for any scooters in District 2 for a limited period only. Opening hours are 8.30am until 8.30pm from Tuesday to Sunday. For more info, email info@saigonscootercentre.com

A CASTLE DOWN SOuTH SEVENTEEN WINKS Experts in the art of a good ol’ fashioned Wild West night out, Seventeen Saloon is opening a hotel in Danang aptly named Hotel Seventeen Saloon (Z72-76 Tran Hung Dao, Son Tra). Including 12 floors and overlooking the Han River, the new hotel is located in central Danang and boasts 70 fourstar rooms with several decorated especially for the inner cowboy or girl. Conveniently situated right next to the hotel is the Seventeen Saloon bar, with live music provided by the venue’s house Filipino band. Seventeen Saloon Hotel is offering a grand opening discount of 30 percent between Sep. 1 and Sep. 30. For more info, visit www.17saloon.vn

10 | Word August 2012

Inspired by Indian Islamic Mughal, a new boutique hotel, Tajmasago Castle (6 Phan Van Chuong, Q7), has opened its doors in District 7. The interior was designed by Gema Architecture & Interior Design, and amenities include a private cinema in the east wing as well as a spacious spa and gym with outdoor swimming pool in the west wing. A restaurant on the second floor is situated adjacent to a bar and a cigar lounge area inspired by the Orient. The ‘castle’ is designed as the perfect retreat from the bustle of the world outside. For more info, contact reservations@tajmasago.com

A TASTE OF AFRICA Traditional African chilli sauce Mama Africa is here and brings all the warmth and natural flavour of the continent with it. Now available in selected outlets, Mama Africa can be used as both a tabletop condiment or as a cooking ingredient in the preparation of fish, meat and vegetable dishes. A few drops of the natural sauce will transform even the most ordinary dish. To get your hands on this little taste of Africa, go to Phuong Ha (58 Ham Nghi, Q1), Thai Ha (60 Ham Nghi, Q1) or Kim Hai Butchery (73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1)

the talk

The Buzz

POP uP FILM The Future Shorts Summer Programme will be screening twice in Ho Chi Minh City, on Sunday Aug. 12 at Fun Society (73 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1) and Wednesday Aug. 15 at Snap Café (32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2). Highlights include Grant Orchard's BAFTA and Sundance Jury Award-winning short the Morning Stroll, the experimental documentary We'll Become Oil about the Gulf of Mexico, and the stop-motion animated Notes on Biology, the winner of Best Short at SXSW. In Street Vendor Cinema from Brazil, a filmmaker and his team set up a stall that makes and sells short films on demand, where wild fantasies come to life in the middle of a bustling marketplace. For more info, visit www.futureshorts.com/ vietnam

THE CuRE

MAKE A SPLASH

Children’s Cancer Cure, a gala dinner and art auction, will take place at Park Hyatt on Oct. 6 from 7pm in collaboration with The Bui Gallery. All proceeds will go to Kids with Cancer Foundation of Vietnam and Thuy’s Dreams. Both organisations share two goals, firstly to improve the cancer cure rate through medical training and Vietnamese children specific genetic research, and secondly to provide physical, mental and emotional support for children cancer patients and their families. The paintings on auction will not be commercial pieces, so it’s a good chance to get your hands on something from a number of unique collections. Funds raised will go to the project which aims to increase the cancer cure rate from 5 percent to 50 percent in three years. Tickets are available for VND2.7million a head. To make a reservation call 0977 592099 or contact shooc2@yahoo.co.jp

On Aug. 25 the Islandboys are back with the second edition of ReggaeSplash — Journey to the Island in 2 minutes at Ben Song River Restaurant for a massive Reggae day out. Entrance to the event is free with live reggae music supplied by Echo Monkeys and DJ Fatboy Tim plus a special guest DJ. If you’re feeling peckish, an all you can eat BBQ with Jamaican jerk chicken, curry mutton and a free flow of Red Rock lager will be served for VND450,000 throughout the day. There will also be a gate prize of a weekend cruise for two with Mango Cruises, and for those who don’t fancy the swim, free transport across the Panorama in Phu My Hung will be provided via The Reggae Boat to the island two minutes away. For more info, visit www.calvermedia.com. Ben Song River Restaurant is located at 6/8 Ap 4, Xa Phuoc Kien, Huyen Nha Be.

FAST FILMS The 48 Hour Film Project, the world’s largest timed filmmaking competition, has once again announced its annual event in Ho Chi Minh City. The festival itself is set to expand to nearly 90 cities around the world. Registration in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi opens on Aug. 1 with the filming taking place between Sep. 14 and Sep. 16 in Ho Chi Minh City and between Sep. 28 and Sep. 30 in Hanoi. The films will be screened from Nov. 5 until Nov. 8, and the winners will be announced on Nov. 17 at a special awards ceremony in Saigon and on Nov. 10 in Hanoi. There will also be a Best of Asia screening on Aug. 23 at Fun Society (73 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1) from 7pm showing some of the best films from 48 Hour Film Festival’s 2011 season. For more info on the project, go to www.48hourfilm.com/hcmc or www.48hourfilm.com/hanoi

LET’S PLAY BALL TRAVEL EXPO The eighth edition of the International Travel Expo (ITE) will take place at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention in District 7 from Sep. 13 to Sep. 15. The first two says will be open to trade visitors only, which includes hosted buyers and sellers, while public visitors will be welcome to join the event on the last day. The ITE HCMC 2012 expects to garner over 200 participating companies from more than 30 countries and anticipates some 18,000 to 20,000 international and regional visitors.

12 | Word August 2012

Players from all over Asia will take to the diamond for the inaugural International Softball Tournament between Aug. 31 and Sep. 2 at RMIT. Essentially American baseball with a bigger ball, shorter base-paths and slower ball speeds, it may be a gentler game, but the competition remains just as fierce. After four years the amount of teams continues to grow and the Saigon International Softball League invites you to join a team and their league come September. Spectators are of course welcome, and the event will be catered by the Al Frescos Group, so there will be lots to eat and drink. There will also be raffles, prizes and giveaways as well as local celebrities ready to entertain the crowds. For more info or to join a team, contact DDDinSGN@gmail. com or visit www.SaigonSoftball.info

August 2012 Word | 13

Wired

FREE WHEELIN’ On Aug. 19 Mekong Creations will be giving customers an opportunity to discover District 7 with free rides on their bamboo bikes as well as special offers on selected lines in store. Many of the bikes will be in ready on hand where riders will be give a map showing places of interest in the area. There will also be a limited number of free gifts including drinks as well as discounted items in store. A passport is required as deposit. Mekong Creations is located at S17-1 Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7.

ANTI-THEFT SOFTWARE WITH MOBILE PHONES AND laptops so effortlessly falling into the wrong hands, a couple of app developers have come up with anti-theft software to not only protect data, but to help detect the location of the lost device. Take for example Bitdefender. Available for Android devices as well as Windows XP, Vista, and Windows 7, for a yearly subscription of just uS$30 (VND620,000), as well as providing an anti-virus solution, you can protect up to three of your portable electronic companions from theft. The system works via an online account management service — My Bitdefender. After you've installed the program, you will be asked to set up this service so as to activate the anti-theft function. Then, through SMS and web control, you can locate your device using GPS and Wi-Fi information. You can also lock your device, wipe all data, alert your device by emitting an alarm, even if the phone or computer is set to silent, and receive alerts whenever the SIM card in your phone has been replaced. This final service will also send you the new phone number of whoever has your phone if they replace your SIM. Prey Anti-Theft for iPhone, iPod and iPad goes one step further. Not only is this open source software presently free of charge for the basic service, but it also takes a photo of whoever tries to meddle with your device once it's in their hands. All giving us a greater sense of protection against the growing problem of petty theft.

14 | Word August 2012

D RAMIREZ IN TOWN ALL MIXED uP A new collection of mixed media paintings by Darren Power are now on show at Vin Space (4 Le Van Mien, Q2) until Aug. 9. The paintings are situated in the hiatus between construction and deconstruction, and explore the cyclical nature of development through a variety of textures. Inspired by images from Vietnam, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, Darren has created a collection of images that express and reflect their surroundings and history. For more info, contact 0907 729846 or email info@ vin-space.com

LET’S PARTY ALL NIGHT Vietnamese pop sensational Thao Trang will be holding a mini live concert at the Hard Rock Café (Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1) on Aug. 3 to celebrate the release of her newest single titled Party All Night. Tickets are on sale now for VND100,000 and include one free Coors Light and a CD of the single. DJ Ajam will also be appearing on the night. Doors open at 8pm. More about the artist can be found at www.thaotrang.vn

DJ and house producer D Ramirez is in town on Aug. 17 to spin a set of deep house and techno at Blanchy’s Tash (95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1) from 9pm. He has been attributed as almost single handedly creating the ‘electro house sound’ that shook dance floors across the world in the mid 2000s. Producing and remixing many of the tracks that took club world by storm, his work helped ushere in a new era for dance music. Ramirez’s tough and upfront releases have been supported by some of the world’s top DJs with his most notable hit, a remix of Bodyrox's Yeah Yeah, earning him an Ivor Novello nomination in 2006. Tickets are free before 9pm and cost VND200,000 after, including a free bottle of Peroni

In the Papers THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

the talk

FIRST SOLAR LEAVING VIETNAM American manufacturer of solar power panels, First Solar, is pulling out of Vietnam and has said it is selling its factory in Ho Chi Minh City, according to thanhniennews.com. Brandon Mitchener, its director of foreign affairs, said the decision was due to the low global demand for solar power. The factory in the Dong Nam Industrial Zone in Cu Chi District was built just last April. The factory, the first of its kind in Vietnam, was expected to become operational in the second half of this year, producing panels with a capacity of 250 megawatts a year. A 60x120 sqm panel costs US$100 to US$150, unaffordable in Vietnam, so the company had initially planned to export its products to the US and Europe.

SuPER CARS FOR RENT

BEWARE OF BAIDu SPYWARE

Ngo Thi Phuong Thao, director of the Chau Au travel company in Binh Thanh, specialises in renting out “super cars” for processions and road shows. She says, “All of my clients are very rich people who only accept state-of-the-art cars, manufactured [no earlier than] 2011. Some rich men from Long An, Tien Giang, Ben Tre and Can Tho come to me to hire luxury cars just to go to restaurants and coffee shops with their girlfriends.” She adds: “Some even hire such cars to go around the city with girlfriends. Three months ago a man from Long An spent VND70 million to hire a BMW X6. On returning the car, he gave my staff a VND2 million tip.”

Vietnamese internet security communities say search engine and online entertainment page Baidu is spreading cyber attacks on local computers. According to Tuoi Tre online newspaper, members of Hacker Vietnam, a forum providing computer tips and warnings, and the CMC Information Security Company, said several new software and other services of Baidu secretly install spyware on users’ computers. They said Baidu’s music player software TTPlayer contains adware, or illegal advertisement software, which is automatically installed into the users’ computers when they download the music player. The adware will change the computers’ home page for advertisement purposes. The download also infects the computers with an application called hao123.1.0.0.1097.exe that functions as a Trojan downloader, downloading virus codes anytime the computers are connected to the internet. HiPlayer, software required for watching movies online on Baidu’s sister site, ahphim.com, also automatically installs the same application.

5CM LEECH EECH REMOVED FROM MAN’S NOSE SAME-SEX MARRIAGE

JADE STATuE OF VIETNAMESE ZEN BuDDHISM FOuNDER PLANNED A group of Buddhists in Ho Chi Minh City plan to make a two-ton jade statue of King Tran Nhan Tong (1258 - 1308), considered as the founder of Vietnamese Zen Buddhism. Work on the statue, which is between 1.5 and 1.6 metres high, started last month and is expected to be completed in December. Made from a 4.5-ton nephrite jade block from Canada, the statue will be seated on a white marble lotus throne, according to the Buda Company, which has been assigned the task. The stone has previously been blessed by foreign and local monks, nuns and Buddhists during a special ceremony, the company said. The first of its kind in Vietnam, the statue is meant to inspire Vietnamese unification and celebrate its history, spirit and culture, the VnExpress news website reported. It will be circulated among several large pagodas across Vietnam for the pious to pray to.

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The Ministry of Justice is collecting opinions from agencies and organisations about the legalisation of same-sex marriage as it drafts modifications to the current marriage laws, VnExpress reported last month. In its latest letters, the ministry said it is considering it because increasing numbers of homosexual, bisexual and transgender individuals were declaring their sexual orientations. Their need to get married and live together is also increasing, while the Law on Marriage and Family issued in 2000 outlaws same-sex marriage, the ministry said.

A man in south central Vietnam had a leech removed from his nose last month after it had been there for two weeks. Ha Van Canh, 42, said his nose was constantly itchy, bleeding and causing difficulties in breathing after he had a nap in a field in Dak Lak. Canh went to a private clinic in the province and was prescribed lung inflammation medicine. It failed to improve his condition. During a visit to his home in Binh Dinh Province, Canh went to a medical centre where Dr Nguyen Van Thuan removed a five-centimeter-long leech that had lodged in his nasal cavity for half a month.

SCHOOLS TO RECRuIT 100 NATIVE ENGLISH TEACHERS The Ho Chi Minh City’s education department will recruit 100 teachers who are native English speakers for a project aimed at enhancing the English skills of students next school year. As of 2020, each local school will have at least one teacher who is a native English speaker. Candidates must possess English teaching certificates such as the Teachers of English to Speakers of Other Languages (TESOL), the Teaching Knowledge Test (TKT) and the Teaching English as a Foreign Language (TEFL). Further details pertaining to the requirements, recruitment as well as the job itself are still being drafted by the department. More than VND408 billion has been allotted for the project, over VND336 billion of which will be used to build foreign language learning labs and purchase equipment.

August 2012 Word | 17

Word of Mouth

the talk

A LITTLE TLC A new delivery service Tender Loving Care (TLC) has hit the hungry streets of Ho Chi Minh City with a long list of good-looking food options to get your teeth into. Their menu consisting entirely of artisan pizzas, mini-cake donuts and “beercan” chicken. Call 0919 025852 or 0909 861927

PIZZA TIME

THE SOuNDS OF SuMMER The Curtis King Band will kick off a weekend celebrating the end of Summer at Hard Rock Café (39 Le Duan, Q1) with an old time rock & roll party titled Summer’s Over. On Aug, 17, starting at 9pm, expect to hear some great live music from these talented musicians. On Aug. 18, enjoys hits from Pitch Black, and to round off it soulful songstress Mariedel will belt it out on Aug. 19. There will be food and drinks specials all weekend long.

A new brand of frozen thin crust pizza has hit the supermarkets this month named Frissta. By using quality imported and local fresh ingredients, the pizza toppings and base makes a great combination creating a “pizzeria quality pizza”. By mid August, five flavours we will be available in major supermarkets chains including Giant, Maximart, Citimart, Saigon Tax Center and An Phu Supermarket.

RED GETS ROOMIER Red Bar (70 - 72 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1) has expanded its first floor dining area to include even more space to chill out and have a relaxing day with all the family. Now including big screens for all the live sport fans out there or at the very least to keep your kids occupied while you eat. The space is a smoke-free environment and is available for private functions and presentations. Don’t miss the Red Bar Sunday pool competition grand final on Sunday Aug. 5 from 2pm, where all winners from the past 16 weeks go head to head and battle for big prizes.

18 | Word August 2012

August 2012 Word | 19

AUgUST CALENDAR tuE

mOn

WEd italian mOVieS @ pendolasco, 7.15pm every other wed.

Grain fed SirlOin Steak & ale COmBO Vnd250,000+. every wed. at hog's Breath SaiGOn playerS CluB niGht. every first wed. of the month at la habana. email saigonplayers@gmail.com for info SalSa danCinG @ la fenetre Soleil every wed.

liVe aCOuStiC niGht. 8.30pm every tue. at la habana

myanmar week. from aug. 6 to aug. 12 at monsoon VOnG @ Cactus Gallery (17/12 nguyen huy tuong, Binh thanh). until aug. 11

hiGheSt tea. 2.30pm to 5pm, mon. to Sat. at Strata

fitneSS ClaSSeS @ the Boathouse, 8.30am every mon., wed. & fri. email terronescyril@hotmail.fr for info SalSa ClaSSeS at 7.30pm & romantic night with Carmen & Brothers at 8.30pm. every mon. at la habana

happy hOur. 5pm to 8pm every day, except Sun. at alibi

happy hOur with house wine, beer and cocktail. 4pm to 7pm from mon. to fri. at mekong merchant

ladieS' day - free drink for ladies. every tue. at tamagoo

OySter niGht. 6pm at red BOard GameS niGht. every thu. at Geisha

auSCham SundOwnerS. 6pm at renaissance riverside hotel Saigon. Visit www.auschamvn.org for details hOuSe COCktailS - new drinkS menu. Buy 1 get 1 free every thu. @ hog's Breath

09 darren pOwer’S exhiBitiOn. until aug. 9 @ Vin Space. email info@ vin-space.com for info

happy hOur @ hog's Breath. 5pm to 7pm from mon. to fri.. all draught beer for $2

thu

the deutSChentreff at Brotzeit restaurant. Visit www. gba-vietnam.org for info

Jazz niGht with mariedel. 8.30pm aug. 5 & 9 at hard rock Café SBa meetinG @ Swiss Chalet (54 pasteur, Q1), every 2nd thursday of the month. Visit www.swissvietnam.com for info

SalSa ClaSSeS at 7.30pm and Jazz night at 8.30pm. every thu. at la habana

daily BreakfaSt & weekend BrunCh from 8:30am @ hog's Breath

ladieS’ niGht. every thu. at Bootleg

latinO ameriCan Cinema @ khoi thom, 8pm every tue.

welCOme lunCh fOr GermanS in hCmC at pendolasco restaurant. Visit www.gba-vietnam.org for info

happy hOur. 5pm to 7pm from mon. to thu. at koh thai

phOtO exhiBitiOn By nikki BiSeniekS @ deciBel (79/2/5 phan ke Binh, Q1). until aug. 31

“SaiGOn kidS” phOtO exhiBitiOn @ my place (195 dien Bien phu, Q3). until Sep. 16

marGarita madneSS @ khoi thom, 7pm every wed.

irreGular hexaGOn: COlOmBian art in reSidenCe @ San art. until aug. 16

dJ pedrO. 9pm every thu. at khoi thom

rOCk Star karaOke at hard rock Café. 8.30pm to 11.30pm every mon.

mOdelS and BOttleS. 9pm every wed. at Sin lounge (22 le thanh ton. Q1)

Jazz niGht with mariedel. 8.30pm every thu. at la fenetre Soleil

happy hOur. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at the deck

ladieS niGht with Carmen & Brothers’ live acoustic. 8.30pm ever wed. at la habana

ladieS niGht with dJ aJam at hard rock Café. 9pm to 12am every thu.

tapaS fieSta & wine through the night. 7.30pm every mon. at la habana

liVe muSiC. 6.30pm every wed. at al fresco’s thao dien

diSCOtek @ Blanchy’s tash, 8pm every mon.

happy hOurS at monsoon. 5.30pm to 7.30pm every mon. daily Buffet lunCh. from mon. to Sat. at Strata happy hOur. from 2pm to 7pm everyday at Chile house (42 Bis tran Quoc thao, Q3)

20 | Word August 2012

muSiC Quiz niGht @ la fenetre Soleil every tue.

BBGV’S netwOrkinG drinkS. Visit www.bbgv.org for info daily VietnameSe COOkinG ClaSS @ Saigon Cooking Class, 10am to 1pm or 2pm to 5pm from tue. to Sun. email contact@saigoncookingclass.com for info

SaiGOn pOker niGht. 7.30pm at Geisha

Jazz niGht with mariedel. 7pm to 10pm every wed. at Vasco’s new 2 COurSe Set lunCh Vnd185,000+. from mon. to fri. at hog's Breath Vietnam internatiOnal hOt air BallOOn feStiVal. from aug. 29 to Sep. 3 at Binh thuan

faBulOuS GirlS niGht Out @ level 23 nightspot, Sheraton, 7pm every thu. free cocktails for all ladies

ladieS niGht COCktail. Buy 1 get 1 free @ hog's Breath

full mOOn party at level 23 nightspot

the talk

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Aug. 10 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

FRI Sizzle with SalSa @ koh thai, 6pm every fri.

SAt afl GameS @ the Boathouse, every weekend

friday fieSta. 9pm at la habana

liVe muSiC On fridayS with geat voice Veronica nguyen @ hog's Breath

Cat wOmen. 9pm every fri. at xu

latin niGht with warapO. 9pm at hard rock Café. tequila specials all night

happy hOur. 4pm to 7pm from mon. to fri. at mm Bistro Saigon

leGendS Of hOuSe with BrandOn BlOCk. 9pm at Blanchy’s tash

i am hip hOp @ Velvet, 9pm every fri.

SinGapOre natiOnal day Charity GOlf. Visit www.sbghcm.org for info

perOni friday’S @ Vino, 4pm to 7pm every fri.

Bad neiGhBOur @ hard rock Café every fri., 9pm happy hOur. Buy 1 get 1 free on cocktails and draft beer. 4pm to 6pm every day at level 23 nightspot liVe latin muSiC. 8pm every fri. & Sat. at khoi thom

didO and aeneaS @ Opera house. Visit www.vnso.org.vn for info

Summer’S OVer!!! Old time rOCk & rOll ShOw with CurtiS kinG. 9pm at hard rock Café. Buy 1 get 1 Coors light free all night manGO mOOn @ khoi thom, 8pm to 11pm every fri. & Sat. d ramirez. 9pm at Blanchy’s tash

hOuSe SpiritS. Buy 1 get 1 free. every fri. @ hog's Breath

pinOy triVia niGht @ Geisha, 7.30pm. Gift vouchers for the trivia winners Vnd50,000 SeleCted COCktailS @ the Boathouse, 4pm to 6pm every fri. CuBan niGhtS with warapo Band. 9.30pm every fri. at pacharan

mariedel with manGO paSSiOn Band. 8pm every Sat. at khoi thom

Sun Sunday pOOl COmpetitiOn. 2pm at red Bar

liVe aCOuStiC with mr rey. 5pm every Sun. at red Viet lOtuS – lOtuS life 17 @ Saigon Skydeck, Bitexco. until aug. 5

Sunday lunCh Buffet. 11.30pm at Geisha

SeCOnd Sunday mixed rOaSt @ the long table. free draught beer & house narrOw the Gap. 3pm at ky hoa hotel (238 Ba thang hai, Q10). email info@linvn. spirit at hog's Breath org for info raCk ‘em up pOOl tOurnament. 7pm every Sun. at the tavern liVe muSiC with SCOtt Bradley and riCkie mC intOSh. every Sat. & Sunday paellaS & happy hOur. Sun. at khoi thom 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at la habana

wOOzie preSentS phOniCS @ Vasco’s, 9pm every Sat.

ClaSSiCal Ballet & mOdern Ballet @ Opera house. Visit www.vnso.org.vn for info

Game On - Sunday dartS at the tavern

CriCket Game at VunG tau. Call 0907 378 523 for info

dJ niGhtS @ xu, 10pm every Sat.

OrCheStral muSiC @ Opera house. Visit www.vnso.org.vn for info

COCktail maSter ClaSS with riChie fawCett @ koh thai, every Sat. Call 091 233 9138 for booking

Grill BBQ rOOftOp party @ Cloud 9, 3pm to 7pm every Sun.

reGGae SplaSh – JOurney tO the iSland in 2 minuteS at Ben Song river restaurant (6/8 ap 4, nha Be). Visit www. calvermedia.com for info

Sunday BuBBly BrunCh. 11am to 3pm at Strata

laSt Sunday auSSie mixed Grill BBQ with free flow draught beer & house wine at hog's Breath all niGht lOnG happy hOur. 25% off on beverages by glass. 7pm every Sun. at level 23 nightspot

laSt friday Of the mOnth with house Spirit. Buy 1 get 1 free & live music @ hog's Breath internati internatiOnal SO SOftBall tOurnament @ rmit from aug. 31 to Sep. 2. Visit www. saigonsoftball.info for details

August 2012 Word | 21

SCENE photos by Rick hoRton

OVER

DARTING AROuND

Au Parc has renovated and refurbished its look to give customers a fresh and new dining experience

22 | Word August 2012

PROGRAMMED FOR SuCCESS uS Consul General An Le and the International School Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC)-American Academy celebrate the school’s acceptance into the prestigious Syracuse university Project Advance (SuPA) programme

photos pRovidEd by kEnzo tRinh

NEW & IMPROVED

photos by thanh tUnG

photos by EJ chUnG

The Saigon International Darts League’s mid-year party. All money raised from the lucky draw was donated to the Loreto Program

THE FIRST SAIGON DJS FOOTBALL MATCH With two teams named Techno and Disco, 15 DJs from around the city joined in a friendly match at the Khanh Hoi mini football field

August 2012 Word | 23

Insider

CONfESSIONS / ThE ACCIDENTAL ENGrAVEr / ThE BUCk STOPS hErE PHOTO BY CHARLES BARNES

idea was born in Vietnam and we loved the idea so much that we have applied it to the foundation events following the Vietnam party.

CHARITY CORNER

Dressed For Awareness

Where in Vietnam can one go to get screened for bowel cancer? How accessible is screening for people all over Vietnam? Good question. I hope Doctor Pham Xuan Dung can help with this question. I will let you know.

On Aug. 3, 20 cyclists will travel from Hanoi to Saigon in little black dresses to raise funds for the Jodi Lee Foundation and to promote bowel cancer awareness. Christine Van speaks to founder, Nick Lee, about the inspiration behind the event. Photos provided by the Jodi Lee Foundation

Can one change their lifestyle to decrease the risks of contracting bowel cancer? Yes. It really comes down to combating some of the factors I referred to above. For example, eating plenty of fibre through a diet high in fruit and vegetables, controlling your weight, exercising and watching your intake of cooked red meat. Medical researchers find it difficult to explain Jodi’s case. She was young, fit, had a good diet and no family history. Having a direct family history does increase your chances of contracting the disease. This however amounts to less than 10 percent of cases in Australia.

Symptoms include: 1) Bleeding from your bottom or blood in your stools, even if only occasional 2) A persistent change in bowel habits, like going to the toilet more frequently, diarrhoealike motions, or feeling that the bowel does not empty completely 3) Stools that are narrower than usual 4) Frequent gas pains, bloating, fullness or cramps 5) Persistent, severe abdominal pain, which has come on recently for the first time 6) A lump in your tummy or rectum 7) Unexplained feelings of tiredness, breathlessness and low energy 8) Unexplained weight loss or vomiting

Who is Jodi Lee? Jodi and I had been married for 10 years when we moved to Vietnam in 2006. We were two years into a wonderful experience and having the time of our lives. Our two young children were having a wonderful time too. We were almost pinching ourselves thinking ‘how good is this’. I was away working when Jodi rang me complaining of constipation, abdominal pain and some bloating. The next morning, her doctor recognised an obstruction in Jodi’s bowel and ordered some scans. The results came in at about 3pm that afternoon. Jodi had bowel cancer and the tumour had all but blocked her bowel. She was 39 years old.

26 | Word August 2012

Jodi was diagnosed with Stage IV bowel cancer, the most advanced stage. The cancer had spread to her lymph node and liver. She had at best two years to live. Jodi passed away on Jan. 16, 2010 leaving her family and friends devastated. In 2010 I set up The Jodi Lee Foundation. From our experience came a massive opportunity to try and make something good out of an awful situation. I don’t want anyone else to go through what Jodi and I went through. I feel like there’s a huge part of Jodi in The Jodi Lee Foundation. The values of the foundation are values that we held dear in our relationship — integrity, vitality and

transparency. At the end of the day there’s not nearly enough awareness about bowel cancer. We are helping to change that. What is bowel cancer and what are the symptoms? Colorectal cancer, commonly known as colon cancer or bowel cancer, is a cancer from uncontrolled cell growth in the colon or rectum. Most colorectal cancer occurs due to lifestyle and increasing age with only a minority of cases associated with underlying genetic disorders. It typically starts in the lining of the bowel and if left untreated, can grow into the muscle layers underneath, and then through the bowel wall.

Unfortunately, by the time many of these symptoms show it is too late, as was the case with Jodi. I do not have a medical background so all my comments about the disease come from my experience and own research. They should not be taken as medical advice! Research shows that bowel cancer is due to lifestyle and increasing age, and mostly occurs in developed countries. Are Vietnamese people at high risk of getting bowel cancer? Some of the funds that we raise through this event will go to the Ho Chi Minh City Oncology Hospital. Our contact is Doctor Pham Xuan Dung who is the deputy director of the hospital. I also found a link (www.

cancerscreening.nhs.uk/bowel/publications/ the-facts-vietnamese.pdf) that contains facts for Vietnam, but as it is in Vietnamese I am unable to read it. While BC rates are lower in Vietnam than Australia, there are still Vietnamese [people] dying from BC and therefore it is a concern requiring focus and investment. Lifestyle and diet are contributors to BC [and] as Vietnam becomes more westernised, the prevalence of BC is likely to increase. It is important that we start the education process now to minimise the impact. I also understand first-hand the impact that this disease can have on a family. The cost of treatment and need for care is a huge burden for families to carry. I know this is very important in the mindset of Vietnamese. That is, Vietnamese are highly fearful of becoming a burden to their family. Why does Australia have the highest incidence of bowel cancer? While further research is required to give a definitive answer to this question there is no doubt that obesity levels, lack of fibre in diets and the high consumption of cooked red meat play an important role. How did the Little Black Dress become the symbol for the foundation? Shortly after Jodi and I left Vietnam in 2008 to go back to South Australia to begin Jodi’s treatment, some great friends in Vietnam wanted to do something to help. They decided to plan a cocktail party as a fundraiser. They wanted to have a theme and they decided that a ‘little black dress’ was the best theme that was most closely associated with Jodi. Jodi loved going out to dinner or special occasions in a little black dress. So the

For the fundraiser Ride For The LBD... Vietnam, will you be trying to educate people along the way in your eight-day tour? Absolutely. We will be talking to as many people as practical about the importance of screening for BC on our ride. We find that wearing a little black dress and jerseys promoting the early detection message will help promote a conversation and raise awareness. We will be generating as much publicity as we can in both Vietnam and Australia. We will also hold a celebration on Aug. 10 where we will also raise awareness about this important issue. We know education is a key factor in motivating people to screen and we will push this as hard as we can. The foundation’s goal is to raise AUS$120,000 (VND2.7 billion) to promote awareness. How will the JLF spend the money to do this in Vietnam? We have not determined at this stage how funds raised will be split between Australia and Vietnam. We will certainly be contributing funds to Vietnam. The money raised for Australia will go behind our four initiatives to raise awareness and encourage early detection. At this stage I would say that the Vietnam funds will go to support the bowel cancer work of the Ho Chi Minh City Oncology Hospital. How connected to Vietnam is the foundation in the long term? Vietnam will always hold a very special place for the foundation and me. We have amazing memories of Vietnam and it is the place that Jodi was diagnosed. We are already planning another event for Vietnam in April next year. To learn more about the foundation and bowel cancer visit www.jodileefoundation.org.au

August 2012 Word | 27

Confessions of an English Teacher From scheduling DVD lessons to coincide with hangover blues, to leaving 20 ungraded tests at the bar after last orders, here are confessions straight from the horse’s mouth. Words by Stephanie Cantrell. Photo by Charles Barnes Dave, 29 It’s not uncommon for people to fall asleep during a listening test when the CD is playing and the kids are all writing, but I somehow managed to fall asleep midway through a class feedback session while I was sitting at the front of the room. The teaching assistant had to come and wake me up. Is it bad that none of my students noticed?

Johnny, 23 I had a student who wouldn’t join in any of the physical activities such as changing chairs or racing games. I kept pushing her to stand up and participate with the rest of the class until the teaching assistant sidled up to me and told me the kid had a prosthetic leg.

Nadine, 27 I was trying to teach my class the word ‘contain.’ In true CELTA style, I broke the syllables down to make the pronunciation easier. It was only when I started drilling the individual sounds that I realised my mistake, as 18 ten-year-olds stood chanting, “C***! C***! C***!”

Sophie, 22 A lot of the kids are really small so you have to be careful where you put your feet. I made my youngest class gather around me for story time and accidentally kicked one in the head. If you laugh it off, they’re fine.

Emma, 22 My problem is pronouncing Vietnamese names. I walked into my teenage class one day and said, “Has anyone seen little Vu?” The intonation I used meant that I was actually saying ‘little boobs.’ The 15-year-old boys in the class loved it.

Andrew, 25 A junior kid kept [irritating me] in the lesson and wouldn’t listen to me or do as he was told. Just before break time a bigger kid pushed him over and he really hurt his leg. He looked at me from the floor to see what I would do but I just

28 | Word August 2012

pretended I hadn’t seen anything happen and let the drama unfold.

Gaz, 29 I have a lot of banter and jokes with the kids in my classes. One kid came in wearing a black badge one day and I drew attention to it and started teasing him about it. I sarcastically said, “Hey, nice badge.” He replied, “Yes, Teacher. It’s to remember my brother who just died.”

Jenny, 24 I’m sorry, but kids all look the same to me. I’m always calling them “You!” in class and have completely fabricated grades and comments when the reports come through and there’s a kid’s name you don’t know. Who doesn’t need to improve on their accuracy and pronunciation?

Rich, 24 I had a really young class and realised about an hour into the lesson that one of the kids had sh*t his pants. The assistant was out of the room and I couldn’t face dealing with it, so I ignored it and left him sitting in his own sh*t for the next half of the lesson. Towards the end of the class, I’d completely forgotten what’d happened and started playing a game of ‘change chairs.’ Realisation dawned on me as he waddled out of his seat and the unpleasant smell in the room intensified.

Katherine, 22 I’d had really bad food poisoning the night before class and couldn’t stop farting. To avoid embarrassment, I kept sidling up to the kid no one liked and farting next to him before moving away. The whole class was convinced it was him.

Anna, 25 One of my students finished her test early. So to stall time I told her to check it. She misunderstood me and fled the room, thinking she’d got every question wrong. I finally tracked her down in the ladies toilets, but when I tried to approach her, she turned the bum hose on me to keep me away.

August 2012 Word | 29

TALKING SHOP

The Accidental Engraver One man has etched out more than just a living in his 31 years on the sidewalk of Le Loi. Words by Robert Stockdill. Photos by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

guyen Thang is now an easily recognisable and enduring part of downtown Ho Chi Minh City’s unique character. People come from all over town to engage his talent for fine engravings of words and names on all sorts of metal and wooden objects, gifts, trophies and keepsakes. His popularity is obvious. A Vietnamese woman waits for him to engrave a cigarette box. Thang is meticulous and careful to maintain a steady hand. Once the name of her brother is carved into the steel box, she is delighted. “How much for it?” she asks. Thang smiles broadly, a stark contrast to the stony, impassive expression he held just before. “Do you remember how much you paid me four years ago?” he replies. They both laugh and she introduces him to her French husband. The customer has known Thang since she was a student. Now the student has graduated, married, moved abroad, started a family and returned to Ho Chi Minh City for a holiday. But Thang remains in the same spot on the pavement outside Fahasa Books where she had gifts engraved for her siblings as a teenager. His handwriting is beautiful, soulful even. Thanks to those qualities and his reputation he can “live well” off this skill and passion.

Sacrifices Thang might now feel engraving was his destiny, but it wasn’t always that way. As a child he’d work on the family’s rice paddies by day and balance a book in one hand and a younger sibling in the other at night. Money — or rather a lack of it — forced him to give up his ambition to be a painter at an early age. His family was often short of food. So saving money for the three to four months necessary to buy paints and brushes was not an option. To draw he resorted to using pieces of coal. “It forced me to have to give up my dream to become a painter,” he says, “but now I’m happy about that because it guided me to where I am today.” When Thang arrived in Saigon he worked as a porter on Saigon’s wharves, then a bicycle puncture repairman on Le Loi (near where he now

30 | Word August 2012

plies his more recent trade). He spent most of his spare income on tools for drawing and painting before trying his hand at engraving elephant tusks. And that’s where his career was born. “I like this job and enjoy it with enthusiasm,” he continues. “My only ambition now is that my children can get the best education and have the chance to become whatever they want to be.” Thus he stops work on the dot of 5pm every day to play xe om to his children, whisking them from one school to another and later home for the family meal at 9pm. When you see the fineness of his work, his skill is obvious and has led to many invitations to work in the US, France and popular Vietnamese tourist areas. He declines the offers because he is “too busy driving his kids to school”. “Money is not everything. The less you have the more you feel life. Many people still think that I’m crazy — even my Mom — to study and graduate then become an unknown engraver on the sidewalk, smug at being mediocre. Yes, I am crazy. But I’m happy, I enjoy my life and I sleep well at night.”

This Corner of the World Hours every day spent focused on the fine print he writes has taken its toll on his eyes. He’s had two operations on them already. Engraving is not an easy task: accuracy is paramount — you cannot make the tiniest of errors in this profession, because engraving cannot be reversed and the items he works on are often gifts and are very meaningful to his customers. Perhaps that’s why people are so loyal, bringing a constant flow of items to the patch of Saigon pavement Thang has come to ‘own’ over three decades. “I could never leave this corner. The people, the traffic, the noise, the dirt — it’s all part of my life,” he says. “Students, workers, officers... they all bring to me small gifts to make them special. Imagine one day I’m not on this corner. They are still working, the traffic is still moving, but they will feel strange, a little empty — like this corner is missing someone — because for 31 years I have been a part of this corner.”

August 2012 Word | 31

the BUck stoPs

here

Freshly Baked Banh Mi VND3,000

Be a Painter

Words By JaMes allen, stePhanie cantrell, J a M e s P h a M , n i c k r o s s & c h r i s t i n e Va n

Looking for a great rainy day activity with the kids? Try Vietnam’s version of Mommy and Me on one of the upper floors of the many book stores around town. Starting at VND12,500, select a plaster figurine and get to work with the free tempera paints. There are staff on hand to assist. Unleash your creativity at Nha Sach Nguyen Van Cu, 551 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh

This year Zurich has overtaken Tokyo to rank as the world’s most expensive city. According to the Economist Intelligence Unit's latest Worldwide Cost of Living Survey, the Swiss city was joined in the top five by Geneva, which rose to third place to tie with Osaka. Cities in the Asia-Pacific make up half of the top ten — in addition to Tokyo and Osaka, Sydney and Melbourne were placed seventh and eighth respectively, followed by Singapore. The survey, which is conducted twice a year, compares hundreds of prices across 160 products and services, including food, household supplies, transport and utilities. The most expensive loaf of bread belongs to Tokyo, where a 1kg supermarket loaf costs US$7.96 (VND167,000), compared to Hong Kong (US$2.91 / VND61,000). But a litre of gas in Hong Kong costs US$2.13 (VND44,000), more than a litre in Tokyo.

Fortunately Ho Chi Minh City remains relatively inexpensive, at least for some products. So, we conducted our own survey to find out just how cheap it is to live here, and went in search of all those deals that can be had for a dollar or just under. From dining out to clothes shopping and everything in between, it’s time to readjust the budget and start spending.

P h o t o s B y Q U i n n r y a n M a t t i n G l y, c h a r l e s B a r n e s , e J c h U n G & J a M e s P h a M 32 | Word August 2012

Wired UP

Check your email or look up restaurant reviews on the go with VinaPhone’s MAXS package for students. Bring your student card and ID to any VinaPhone outlet and get 500MB of data usage at high speed and subsequent unlimited free capacity at normal speed for VND20,000 for 30 days. Not a student? Same package costs VND40,000. Connect at www. vinaphone.com.vn

CUTTING KEYS Getting keys cut is one of the best deals in Vietnam. We even know tourists who bring keys from home to save a few dollars. Basic keys are VND10,000 to VND35,000 and are done in minutes. Look for the ubiquitous wooden carts with a glass display of keys scattered around the city or visit Khoa Huu Thiet (429A Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan).

hide yoUr Face

According to the Ho Chi Minh City Department of Transportation, there are 320,000 cars and 3.2 million motorbikes in the city. Protect your lungs while making a fashion statement with quilted floral facemasks, starting at VND7,000 each at most mobile kiosks along the roads.

cool cones

Between VND5,000 and VND10,000 a cone, but beware the durian flavour that lurks beneath. Listen for the ringing bell from the travelling ice cream carts.

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tennis anyone?

Channel your inner Federer or Sharapova with a game of tennis. 20 minutes of daylight playtime at the Thanh Da (Lo 5 Cu Xa Thanh Da, Binh Thanh) courts will only set you back VND20,000, including the services of a ball boy who expertly wields a long-handled dust pan to pick up your balls (use of balls extra).

tiMe to dye

Throw a splash of colour into your cupcakes or other dishes with liquid food dye. Five small vials (blue, red, yellow, pink and green) for only VND5,000 at Stall 607 in Ba Chieu Market (Bach Dang, Binh Thanh)

FloWer PoWer

PriMed & Pressed

Ironing your own clothes is for chumps. Have them washed and ironed for VND10,000 per piece. Turnaround time, approximately two to three days. Find the iron at 36 Huynh Dinh Hai, Binh Thanh

send a Postcard to anyWhere in the World

Dalat in the Central Highlands is blessed with temperatures which are seven to eight degrees cooler on average than in Ho Chi Minh City. This means it produces things that the rest of the country can’t, including strawberries, cauliflower and roses. Find motorbikes loaded with these precious petals parked on the side of Le Thanh Ton just north of Ton Duc Thang in District 1 selling 10 for VND15,000. For this cheap, it all means you can grab a bunch and beg your lady for forgiveness for something you didn’t know you did wrong.

Any post office, but why not gloat to your relatives in style at the General Post office (2 Cong Xa Paris, Q1). Depending on the destination, up to VND21,000.

street donUts

VND5,000, Along Co Giang, Q1 “Sugary irregular circles of fat and awesomeness; I’ve just finished my fifth.” — Minh Thuy

haircUt

VND20,000 for a child at the pavement barber stands.

b shriMP salt

BaGGinG a Fish Fish

An entire fish store mounted on a motorbike has a certain wow factor. Everything from goldfish to Siamese fighting fish to koi to more exotic species can be had (not eaten). Grab a goldfish for your desk for only VND5,000, or perhaps a spotted boxfish that swims with a mesmerizing rowing technique for VND10,000. Fish them out on the side of Le Thanh Ton just north of Ton Duc Thang in District 1 in the afternoons.

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The Tay Ninh region of Vietnam, approximately 90km northwest of Ho Chi Minh City, has neither salt nor shrimp production, but it’s still the capital of shrimp salt (known as muoi tom), a pink, grainy condiment that brings out the sweetness of otherwise sour or acidic fruits such as mango, grapefruit, guava or wax apple. Not exclusively used just for fruit, it’s also good with hard-boiled eggs. Get 200g for VND10,000 or the cheaper chilli salt, 500g for VND15,000 at Ba Chieu Market, Stall 811, Binh Thanh, conveniently located by the fruit sellers.

sinG alonG

Not quite ready for Vietnam Idol? Then start practicing in your very own karaoke booth for VND2,500 per song. Squeeze in an extra friend or two to share your Mariah moment. Belt it out at the arcade above Nguyen Xi Co.op Mart (224/5 bis Quoc Lo 13, Binh Thanh)

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siZZlinG G Pancake P

Everyone’s favourite ‘sizzling pancake’, this banh xeo with shrimp and pork is truly cooked Mien Trung (Central Vietnam) style. It’s crispier and smaller and paler (no turmeric in the batter) than the Saigonese version and comes with huge lettuce leaves and local herbs including mint and the fishy tasting heartleaf, all to be wrapped in rice paper and dipped in fish sauce with pickled carrots. For only VND 3,500 each at 78 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh, you never have to go hungry again.

a BBike ike Wash W

With all the rain, you’d think that motorbikes would be automatically spic and span. Unfortunately, that’s hardly ever the case. Have your bike washed at Petec Station (54 No Trang Long, Binh Thanh) starting at VND15,000 for manuals, VND18,000 for automatic bikes 135cc and below and VND20,000 for 150cc models and above.

BreakinG in

Banh chUnG

Lost your desk keys? Not a problem. Have a locksmith make a house call for just VND20,000. Throw in another VND10,000 to get a spare key made. Opening more complex locks starts at VND50,000. Call Mr Thiet (English speaking) at 0903 367723 or visit his site at www. khoahuuthiet.com

VND16,000, Anh Phan, 226 Cong Quynh, Q1. Not for the feint of heart.

craB snacks

Snack on baby crabs dry roasted with garlic, sugar and salt. Usually made for export, this year’s bumper crop of crab means this salty sweet (and very crunchy) snack has been popping up all over town. They can be refrigerated for up to a week and are purported to be a healthy source of calcium. Eaten shell and all, think of it as popcorn… with legs. Chew on 100g (about 12 to 15 pieces) for VND20,000 at Ba Chieu Market, Stall 315, Binh Thanh

dollar dosaGe

A dollar goes a long way at your local pharmacy. Patch up like a local with 12 pieces of Salonpas (VND11,000). Ward off colds with 10 effervescent Vitamin C 1000 tablets (VND11,000) or if it’s too late and you’ve already got a cough, cold or flu, pick up 10 capsules of Ameflu for VND20,000. Feel better at Nha Thuoc Tay (147 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh)

che

Not to be mistaken for the Argentine Marxist revolutionary, the multitude of delicious sweet che (VND13,000 and up) on offer perfectly rounds off a light meal. A good example is che thap cam — a heady mix of squishy beans, crushed ice, jelly and warm sweetened coconut milk. It may look vaguely alien in nature, but the taste more than makes up for the visuals. Satisfy your sweet tooth at Che My 2 (107 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1)

ridinG GloVes

Tanned skin is for farm workers, or so the Vietnamese say. Keep your forearms fashionably white by wearing long polyester gloves against the midday sun. Short gloves are VND15,000 while the longer arm-length versions are a bit costlier. Slip into them at supermarkets and helmet shops around town.

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tailor rePairs

CHEAP THRILLS If your stomping ground is limited to downtown Saigon roads like Le Loi, Thai Van Lung, Bui Vien and Dong Du, then you can hop on and off a xe om for VND20,000. No need to bargain, just hand over the exact change when you’re at your destination.

FAST BITES Grab a quick snack of light and healthy goi cuon (pork and shrimp and veggies wrapped in rice paper). Choose from black bean or fermented fish sauce. Priced at VND4,000 each at 685/95 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh (in the hem colloquially known as Hem 10), the store is open from 1pm onwards, but get there early as they usually sell out by 6pm.

There’s no reason to walk around looking shabby. Get your clothes mended on the cheap. Replacement zips cost about VND100,000, but buttons can be resewn for just VND10,000 a go or trousers shortened for VND20,000 Fix yourself up at the Laundry Shop (40/20 Bui Vien, Q1). Many tailors such as Fuki (166 Bui Vien, Q1) offer basic mending for free to their loyal shopping customers.

all that Glitter

Put some sparkle into your life with glitter nail polish. VND20,000 at Ba Chieu Market, Stall 432, Binh Thanh

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a caFFeine Fix

Get your coffee fix with freshly roasted Arabica beans (locally known as ca phe Moka) from Buon Ma Thuot. These beans only grow at elevations of 800m above sea level or higher. Get 100g for VND21,000 at Mr Chieu’s stall (22/42 Huynh Dinh Hai, Binh Thanh), a 30 year fixture at Ba Chieu Market, Binh Thanh, behind the row of fruit sellers.

BUBBle tea VND12,000, Alo Tra, 212A Le Lai, Q1. “Nah, they’re supposed to be in there, trust me.” — Emmie Lok

Video GaMes

tra da

Find your inner child in the video arcades at Parkson Plaza (41-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1) and Diamond Plaza (34 Le Duan, Q1). Tokens cost VND3,500 and VND4,000, respectively. Games usually require one or two tokens to play.

VND2,000

oil it UP

This tiny little bottle of dau nong contains 3ml (VND14,000) of acid green medicated oil, strong enough in odour to raise a small animal from the dead. As a by-product it can also alleviate a variety of aches and pains. With active ingredients including menthol, methyl sallcylate and eucalyptus oil, the Eagle brand medicated oil is so widely used in Vietnam you may recognise the tell tale scent hanging in the air in various places around the city. Although used for the temporary relief of minor aches and pains of muscles and joints associated with simple backache, arthritis, strains and sprains, so many swear by the stuff for a whole host of other ailments. Stomach ache? Apparently a quick rub of your ailing tummy with the green stuff will sort you out. It’s also said that the medicated oil can keep you awake after dabbing a few drops on the back of your neck. The elderly are also not averse to blobbing a bit of it on the bottoms of their feet to keep out the cold. We, in a freak moment of medical testing attempted to daub the stuff on cold feet but alas, ended up with a slight tingling feeling instead.

TALKING TRASH The trash collection system in Saigon is efficient, making it easy to keep the streets free of garbage. For VND20,000 a month, someone will come and collect all of your rubbish. Just put it outside your front door in a sealed bag and the trash fairies will whisk it away.

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rice PaPer salad

You may have noticed four or five women sitting patiently on tiny plastic stools by the Tran Hung Dao and Nguyen Thai Hoc intersection with pots of green herbs, dried shrimp, red chilli and white quail eggs in front of them. You may also have noticed them filling a plastic bag with shreds of rice paper, a dip here, a sprinkle there, one quick toss and bish, bash, bosh, enter the street food wonder that is banh trang tron (VND10,000). To finish off the dish, add sate, peanuts, rau ram, crispy dried onion, beef jerky, dried liver, kumquat juice and a couple of quails eggs — a perfect graband-go snack for under a dollar and under a minute to make.

Go FrUity

Ho Chi Minh City is abundant with fruit, all ready to be snapped up cheaply. Head to Ben Thanh Market to devour this to-die-for concoction for VND20,000 each: 1 mango (sliced) 1 avocado 1/2 kilo of rambutan 3 mangosteens 2 or 3 large pieces of sliced durian 1 dragonfruit 1/2 box of jackfruit

take a Walk, BUddy

At ARC (Animal Rescue and Care, www. arcpets.com) in addition to adopting or fostering a pet, there is plenty of opportunity to volunteer at the shelter and get a little closer to our furry friends. If you don’t want the commitment of having your own pet, but fancy mucking in at the cat house or taking a stroll (or sprint) around An Phu with one of the dogs for a couple of hours, email arcpets@gmail.com. It’s free, too.

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BUssinG it

Opt for cheaper travel with the cream and green city buses. Tickets vary between about VND3,000 to VND10,000 a trip depending on distance, and there are dozens of different routes throughout the city. The main bus terminals are Ben Thanh Station, Cho Lon Station and An Suong, although there are many more. Buses are numbered and usually display the names of their start and end destinations. Remember to carry small change to buy onboard tickets from the conductor and write down name destinations for the driver if your Vietnamese is a little shaky.

Used BUt not aBUsed

For great secondhand deals, head to Ba Chieu Market in Binh Thanh. Ngo Nhan Tinh off Trinh Hoai Duc has dozens of stalls selling cheap clothing. Dive into one of the huge piles of shirts, all priced at VND20,000.

shady eyes

coPy cats

It’ll be a bargaining battle, but if you’re prepared to put in the time, those colourful imitation Ray Ban sunnies can be snatched up for as little as VND20,000. Be prepared for wars between vendors and starting prices as high as VND150,000 to VND200,000. Buying in bulk also offers some cheaper deals. Stand on Bui Vien or De Tham squinting at the sun and several sunglasses hawkers will come to your rescue.

VND1,000 for black and white; VND7,000 for colour copies. 100 Cong Quynh, Q1

lottery tickets

HELL BANK MOOLA

Brace yoUrselF

Purchase yourself a beaded bracelet for VND20,000 and up at Saigon Square (77 - 89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia and 7 - 9 Ton Duc Thang, both in District 1).

coconUt candy

Called the “Land of the Coconut”, Ben Tre Province churns out a reported 15,000 tons of coconut candy a year. The green and white chewy candies are made from coconut milk and cream, and are flavoured with vanilla and pandan. Get a packet of 40 pieces for VND15,000 or buy 100g for VND12,000 at Ba Chieu Market, Stall 3, Binh Thanh

no strinGs attached

For the guitar strumming musos out there, you can pick up a new string from just VND5,000 for one. A whole pack of six costs more (naturally), but just head down to Guitar Street (Nguyen Thien Thuat, Q1), and you’ll be sure to get your fill of nylon, acrylic, locally made and imported.

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GET CORNY Who doesn’t love a corn on the cob in the summer? Pick up boiled corn from one of the many itinerant sellers around town for just VND5,000 an ear.

At a mere VND5,000 for 60 notes, despite the unfortunate name, Hell Bank Notes come completely free of sacrificial chicken blood and can be bought in bulk outside your local pagoda, ready to be burnt as an offering to the deceased. A type of joss paper or vang ma printed to resemble legal tender bank notes, they’ve been in use since the 19th century, and are widely found in China and other East Asian countries like Vietnam. The term “Hell Bank” may originate from the teachings of Christian missionaries or from the Chinese concept of an underground court considered by Taoist tradition to be the initial destination of the soul of the dead. In fact, the idea of burning paper representations of worldly goods extends much further than money for the deceased, there are also paper credit cards, gold bars and cheques out there, too.

Chances are you’ll have been approached on the street by people selling lottery tickets (ve so). The Vietnamese lottery remains popular, with different tickets sold in each province. Ticket sellers receive a percentage of the price of each ticket they sell and there is an opportunity for them to return unsold tickets at the end of the day if they’ve been unable to shift many. Unlike the UK or US lottery, where you pick your own numbers, Vietnamese lottery tickets come with six digits already printed on them, much like a raffle ticket. Tickets are sold for VND10,000 each and results are announced daily on TV, radio and in the newspapers. Participants can also text the number printed on their ticket to see if they’ve won any prizes. The top prize for six matching numbers is VND1.5 billion. There are also a number of first, second and third prizes for tickets with five matching numbers.

What a cock UP!

Da cau — also known as that football game played with the shuttlecock — literally stops the traffic as many groups play it in the middle of the road, oblivious to the motorbikes weaving past them. The best feet tossing spots, though, remain the parks. Grab a shuttlecock for VND10,000 from a variety of convenience stores and cigarette carts (2A Do Quang Dau, Q1) or better yet, head straight to the park and a sports hawker will undoubtedly sidle up to you offering to sell you one for VND20,000.

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sinh to

VND20,000, 138 Cong Quynh, Q1

rack ‘eM UP

VND15,000 for 30 minutes of billards. 178/1B Nguyen Trong Tuyen, Phu Nhuan “Have you got the balls?” — Nam Nguyen

ear cleaninG

Don’t be fooled by the sinister set of instruments lined up next to the barber’s chair; with a delicate, practiced hand these babies can be a surprisingly therapeutic way to give your ears a good spring cleaning. We sent ray tai virgin Kathleen Cassidy to Hot Top Barber (562/2 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan; VND20,000) for a checkup. “He started with a trim of the ear hairs, and then step by step got rid of all that buildup. The shaving of the ear hair was a very unique minute. It sounded like miniature scissors deep in my ear.” And although she was understandably a bit anxious at this point, Kathleen assures us that “he worked very slowly and carefully”. So the result of her aural adventure? “If you want that itch scratched,” she raves, “this is the experience for you. You’ll feel like a new person or at least a cleaner one when you’re done!” If you can’t make it out to Phu Nhuan, most barbers offer the service. Always check everything is sanitised before they start, then just sit back, relax and as Kathleen puts it “just point to your ear and they’ll do the rest.”

Make yoUr oWn FishinG rod VND14,000

stay hydrated

hoW MUch do yoU WeiGh?

Get a 20-litre barrel of water delivered to your house for VND20,000 from Watermaxx at 6262 6262. Better known brand Sapuwa (www.sapuwa.vn) charges VND25,000 for theirs.

Step 2 Whittle the tip down until the point is about the diameter of a pencil. Make a shallow notch around the tip about 3cm below the end of the tip to hold the fishing line. Be careful at this point, it is far too easy to cut straight through. Step 4 Get yourself a handy little VND5,000 float, hook and line kit from 320/78 Vinh Khanh, Q4. Vinh Khanh happens to be one of those streets where the numbers are seemingly random, just persevere and keep your eyes peeled for a rack of fishing rods sitting outside the house-cum-shop.

For VND3,000 to VND5,000, find out courtesy of the mobile weight machines trawling the streets

Fresh Beer

Enjoy a glass of fresh beer or bia hoi. Brewed fresh every day, the beer is a lot cheaper than bottled varieties (for example, bia tuoi 33 is VND6,000 a glass at 102 Bui Vien.) The lack of preservatives means that bia hoi doesn’t keep longer than about a day, so venues tend to under order to avoid waste. Unfortunately once it’s gone, it’s gone, so you have to get there early in the afternoon before it all runs out.

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Step 1 Go to Bamboo Street (Ben Van Don, under the Calmette Bridge, Q4) and get yourself a piece of bamboo around 2m to 3m in length, preferably with a base of around 4cm tapering to a thin tip. We found ours for VND9,000, but prices may differ by a few thousand.

Step 5 Tie the line around the notch in the tip of the pole using a good strong convoluted sounding knot to make sure it will not slip or come undone. Step 6 The float, line and hook kit also comes with a little weight which should keep the line in the water. If you prefer more weight or a different hook to what is in included in the VND5,000, there are plenty of little additions you can buy cheaply. Step 7 Attach the bait of your choice and get fishing!

BALLOONS

VND10,000 and up. Downtown parks and roundabouts August 2012 Word | 43

oVerniGht MotorBike ParkinG P Parkin G VND10,000 if picked up before 12pm; VND15,000 after. Under Crazy Buffalo in the backpacker area. Getting drunk: VND150,000 Overnight parking: VND10,000 Not driving under a bus and killing yourself or others: Priceless

Used Books VND20,000 Art Gallery, 198/4 Bui Vien, Q1

sticky PeanUt scented rat traPs

Fresh coconUt

VND5,000 Cho Thai Binh, Q1

Off the street — VND10,000 to VND20,000

Wash ‘n dry

Bike Battery reFill

You may have to haggle, but get the right laundry shop and a kilo costs just VND20,000. Just don't expect your clothes to come back ironed.

VND20,000 50 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Go Vap

inhale

a deck oF cards

VND10,000 to VND20,000

Fancy a smoke? One stick of Craven A, otherwise known as Con Meo, costs just VND1,000.

cocktails

neWsPaPers

VND20,000 for any mixer with whiskey, rum or vodka go to Rumba, 175 De Tham, Q1

coM taM

VND15,000 to VND20,000 a plate, if you’re not buying in the centre of town

can’t hold it in any lonGer?

Public Toilets (WC Cong Cong) are VND2,000 a go

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A PRETTY PADDLE Admission for a swim — VND20,000 a go at Hoang Anh Gia Lai, Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7. Monthly admission goes for VND200,000.

PEDAL POWER Hale down the time-honoured vehicle outside the Backpackers' area and a kilometre ride on a cyclo should set you back VND20,000. But agree the price in advance.

Forget the cover price on the top of the front page, vendors always put on a mark up. Take the Vietnam News, for example, if you're lucky you'll be able to purchase it for VND8,000. If you're not, you may hit VND20,000. The same goes for Thanh Nien, Tuoi Tre, Bong Da and indeed any other paper you're likely to see on the street.

BasketBall at rMit

After 6pm… Basketball — free of charge Parking fee — VND5,000

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Got a Flat? Flat? VND2,000 to VND3,000 to pump up your tyre

a Mani Mani & Pedi VND20,000 for feet and hands, or VND5,000 for each at the travelling lady’s salon

loaded With BaGGaGe?

For VND20,000 you can get a porter to carry your luggage from the pier onto the hydrofoil when you’re heading to Vung Tau for the weekend

one kilo oF charcoal

FREE BAMBOO BIKE RENTAL

shoeshine VND10,000. Everywhere

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No matter how long you’ve been here, from birth or fresh off the bus, you’re probably dying to take a breather from whizzing around Saigon in a fuel-soaked environmentally hazardous bike. Well this might just be what you’re looking for — your very own, day-long pedalpowered jaunt around the city. But it’s not just on any old bicycle. Oh no, why not try an “it-doesn’t-get-more-Asian-than-this” bamboo bicycle? The bike is constructed out of tam vang or “steel” bamboo as it’s known by villagers in Thanh Linh Province where the bamboo is harvested. Mekong Creations (35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 and S17-1 Sky Garden, 1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7), the clever clogs behind this ecofriendly ride, is an income generating project of NGO Mekong Plus, providing training and sustainable employment to the poor. Drop off your passport in either one of their shops as deposit and the bike is yours, what better way to zoom around the city for a good cause.

VND10,000 to VND12,000 at Cho Thai Binh, Q1. The perfect stocking filler.

driVe

For just VND20,000, you will no longer get that litre of gas in, but on a motorbike you'll be able to drive 30km or so. And in a car? One way from District 1 to An Phu. Well, it’s better than the taxi fare.

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DESTINATION

Rediscovering Luang Prabang Tom Hodgson traverses the plains of Laos’s history-rich northern city to uncover an otherworldly land of secrets. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

n elderly woman in a traditional Lao skirt sits skilfully winding tiny pale pastel birdcages out of strips of coloured bamboo. On a tray in front of her are the finished products, jittering with the motion of tiny brown and white bodied birds her son has spent the day capturing. I pause for a rest at her stall panting from the climb to the peak. Up here a soft cool breeze cuts the cloying humidity, but that’s not why I’ve come. It’s the view that drives so many to the top of Mount Phu Si every day, in particular the sunset. From here the white walled and red roofed houses and temples of Luang Prabang’s old city thrust out from among the lush jungle-like forest. Alongside the city the wide expanse of the muddy Mekong River drifts slowly towards the East Sea peppered with ferryboats, carrying locals and tourists across the river to the quiet traditional villages on the other side. Hemming the city in on all sides is an endless pattern of steep mountains and narrow valleys that creates the sensation of an isolated and forgotten world. The swollen red sun is just now slipping gradually behind the mist and mountains. Obscured by the gold temple which crowns the peak of Phu Si is the meeting of the Mekong and its tributary, Nam Khan, a small river that weaves through the city centre. On the road directly below the hill the nightly market is being assembled as dusk rapidly comes

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on. The street, Sakkarin Road, is closed to traffic and a neat line of coloured tarpaulins has been stretched over metal frames to shelter Lao handicrafts, handwoven silks, paintings, carvings, and jewellery. Bulbs strung from the temporarily assembled frames illuminate the stores. One boy is polishing pressed metal kerosene lanterns. Another woman sits in front of an ancient wooden loom, expertly picking the coloured threads and then flying her shuttle through to create stunning silk sins, the traditional long Lao skirt. Each one takes a week to make by hand.

Resisiting Vang Vieng Luang Prabang is in central Laos, one of South-East Asia’s least developed nations. Laos has long been the poor cousin to the rest of its ASEAN neighbours, and similarly attracts far lower numbers of tourists. Places like Luang Prabang, however, are beginning to put this mountainous and obscure nation on the map. The city has played host to a score of mostly forgotten regimes and rulers. From the glory days of Laos’ 17th century precursor, the Kingdom of Lan Sang, to French colonialists, marauding Chinese bandit armies, and Siamese and Burmese invasions. Yet little seems to have changed since the French era, whose elegant pale two-storey shuttered buildings still line the old city. It is honour of the well-preserved nature of the capitals architecture that

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the city has earned the status of a UNESCO World Heritage site. The modern capital, Vientiane, is some ten hours by bumpy road south or a mere hour by plane. Luang Prabang’s World Heritage status, unique beauty and culture regularly attract a moderate amount of tourists. Even the road in is staggeringly beautiful, winding its way over jagged forest peaks where tiny villages hang precariously off of narrow passes. Halfway between Vientiane and Luang Prabang lies a rapidly growing town that is in every way the antithesis of this seemingly time-locked city. Vang Vieng, a sort of water park free-for-all playground for pleasure seeking backpackers, is everything this city is carefully trying to avoid. Signs all over town request foreigners respect Lao sensibilities by dressing modestly and a midnight bar curfew is enforced.

INFORMATION Costs For the most part, Laos is great for the cash-strapped backpacker. Sightseeing costs are minimal, while most popular sights charge admission the cost is likely to be under US$2 (VND42,000). At the low end, guesthouses will offer rooms for around US$8 (VND168,000) to US$20 (VND420,000) a night. These can be not only reasonably furnished and clean, but should offer amenities such as free wifi and a small breakfast. For the mid-range traveller, most of the cities fancier river-view hotels will offer rooms from US$25 (VND525,000) up to US$60 (VND1,260,000). At the far top end some offer, literal palatial luxury. The most up market hotel in town was in fact a former palace for extended members of the Lao Royal Family. Prices in the five star range will cost upwards of US$100 (VND2,100,000). Be aware, prices may be hiked a little in busier dry season, November — April.

Morning Monks and Monarchy Missing Come morning and the night market has gone, replaced by the occasional motorbikes or tuk tuks. Just a block up the road from the market locals are gathering on the side of the road. They arrive rapidly in packed tuk tuks carrying bamboo baskets overflowing with bananas and rice and roll out woven mats on the pavement. All around the city gongs are beginning to chime, a signal for the monks to wake. The sounds of the gongs, and the ubiquitous crowing roosters, drift down the streets and in the dim bluish light of dawn the locals kneel, holding their offerings skyward. The gongs stop, all sit motionless. Bright orange robed columns of monks pad down the streets. They pause by each proffered offering, gathering a small handful, which will be blessed at their temples, before making up the monks’ morning meal. This ancient Buddhist ritual is still held in most Laotian communities, through it the participants gain merit for their next life. There’s something magic in this scene: in the reverential silence that permeates the ceremony, the fervent and earnest faces of the devotees, and the sense of an immense cultural tradition stretching back to the earliest days of Buddhism in Laos. The heat is returning, and I duck into the Royal Palace for some respite. Built in 1904 by French architects for Laos’ reigning monarch, King Sisavang Vong, it remained the home of the royal family until they were deposed in 1975 when the present communist government took power. The palace is an elegant blend of traditional Lao architecture, with its low sloping roof, and French colonial, with marble floors and columns. Now a national museum, it has been kept virtually intact since the royal family’s departure. Even the crown jewels and personal clothing of the family are laid out. I get an eerie sense that the occupants may return at any moment, but it is quickly shrugged off by the appearance of a trio of giggling young cleaning staff.

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If you are happy to eat with the locals in simple street canteens, meals can cost under US$1 (VND21,000). For an actual restaurant, especially one serving foreign food, meals will be in the US$2 (VND42,000) to US$6 (VND126,000) range. Eating in-house at a fancy hotel will prove more costly. GettinG there and baCk Flights are available to Luang Prabang’s international airport from Hanoi, Siem Reap, Bangkok, and Laos’ capital Vientiane. Buses from Luang Prabang are available daily to Hanoi (US$45 / VND945,000), Vientiane (US$15 / VND315,000), Bangkok (US$35 / VND735,000), Chang Mai (US$35 / VND735,000) and Kunming, China (US$50 / VND1,050,000). The roads within Laos are quite poor, so expect a rough trip and potential delays. Often it is really worth it for the dramatic scenery nevertheless. Detailed transport advice and maps are available at www.hobomaps.com.

Braving the New World By night I start to see another side to this until now oh-so-traditional city. A whole slew of funky looking bars have opened along Kingkitsarath Road, on the far side of Mount Phusi. The French Canadian owner of a local foreign-language bookstore, Celine Drean, has invited me to see “something a bit different”. I arrive at 8pm for what turns out to be a fashion show held in the trendy beer garden of a local bar, The Hive. Only the ‘something different’ is that the show displays the traditional fashions of local ethnicities, complete to a pumping Western electronic catwalk soundtrack. As the small crowd of foreigners enjoy beer, cocktails and pizza, local men and women parade around in the traditional clothing of some thirty different local ethnic minorities. The great variety in cuts, colours and styles hints at the great wealth of relatively unknown Lao ethnic minority culture.

After dinner, an even more unlikely sight replaces the fashion show: the local Laos boys’ break-dancing crew. A more bizarre combination wrought by the effects of the globalisation of Western culture is hard to imagine. And as I discover, there’s more where that came from. Celine explains Luang Prabang happens to also be the proud home to a regional film festival held at the beginning of December and small modern art scene. It’s exciting to see a city that can so comfortably blend a quiet, respectful, traditional culture with a vibrant arts scene.

Jungle Run The next day I decide to wander further afield. I hire a bicycle and ride out. Beyond the city there are various small villages known for their handicrafts, waterfalls, and caves. I feel as though I’m drifting back through time as views of villages of wooden houses, chickens skittering off the road as I

pass and ancient near-toothless women peering out from shuttered windows replace the city. The only sign of the modern world in these towns is the neon BeerLao sign, the national beer and pride of Laos, and packets of Thai chips and canned drinks in the towns’ shops. Children chase my bike waving and shouting “Hello!” Pausing to offer treats to the kids leads to me being swamped in friendly villagers offering me a place at their lunch table. There’s an immense propensity for hospitality in Laos, where even in the biggest cities people will earnestly invite an outsider to join them for a meal, and a drink, at their family table. This is always a recipe for a fantastic time, and a good opportunity to practice some basic Lao. Sabaidee! (Hello) Finally, about thirty kilometres out of Luang Prabang, the Kuang Si Falls and a chance to wash off the dust of the road. The falls consist of many separate small

cascades and three large pools. Floating on my back I stare up at the water streaming down tiers of rocky outcrops and just relax. The quiet atmosphere is soothing and a perfect counterbalance to a long bike ride. My time is running out in Luang Prabang, but certain memories linger strongly. My most lasting impression is the view from Mount Phu Si. From here the whole span of cities history is laid before you, the Mekong whose epic silt flows have fertilised the soil and provided for the inhabitants since time immemorial, the ancient temples, and 19th century French colonial buildings. The one generic communist concrete building is the soaring grey radio station, notable mostly by being the only building of its sort in the area, showing how much this city seems to have drifted through the last two centuries only occasionally brushing by the outside world.

Money Matters Luang Prabang has a reasonable share of ATMs accepting Visa and MasterCard, and some up-market shops and hotels will also have card facilities. For the most part, cash is a must. Kip, the local currency, is preferred, but most will also accept Baht or US dollars. The Kip has been fairly steady with the US dollar at an 8000Kip to $1 rate for the last few months. Keep in mind, however, if paying in other currencies you are unlikely to be offered anything near accurate exchange rates. Visas Thirty-day visas to Laos are available at the border to most nationalities. Providing a passport photo is preferred. Prices vary by country from US$30 to US$40. how lonG do i need? The city’s basic sights could be covered in a day, but a few days is highly recommended to really let the atmosphere soak in and to provide time to see the villages and sights just outside town. For those looking to go further afield, elephant and hiking eco-tours are a great alternative and can be customized to last anywhere from one to five days.

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4am

OuT & ABOuT

Around the Clock New York is described as the city that never sleeps. But how does Saigon compare? Stephanie Cantrell heads out to find the best that 24-hour Saigon has to offer.

It’s about time for a breather and the deckchairs outside Lily Bar (179 De Tham, Q1) beckon warmly. The staff quickly rearranges the chairs and tables so our group can all sit together and VND20,000 beers and VND40,000 cocktail buckets appear on the table. With few peddlers out this late to pester you, it’s quite nice people-watching from this uninterrupted vantage spot.

5am

185 — the corner of De Tham and Bui Vien, and the streets are busy. Dodging motorbikes and squid carts, we head inside the bar to avoid the relentless traffic of cigarette and flower sellers forcing their wares on the customers seated outside. The buy-one-get-one-free cocktail offer lasts all night and at VND70,000 they’re difficult to resist. A computer sits on the corner of the bar waiting for would-be DJs to pick a song. Lounging on the low seating with personal music at our fingertips, it’d be easy to settle in for the night, but the bright windows from the countless 24-hour convenience stores light the way for the night ahead.

1am Lam Son (242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5), is a venue that never stops singing. It was once hard to imagine how a karaoke bar would have enough business to justify all-night opening hours, but no more. From VND100,000 an hour for a room, or slightly

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more if you want an adjacent bathroom, the price is good. The whole venue is set underground — no windows or clocks to warn customers of the impending dawn. Each room is country themed. We find ourselves in ‘Egypt’, a long room lined with soft seating and a runway style drinks table, all topped off with a pyramid mural and hieroglyphics on the wall. The stock of English songs is plentiful even if the lyrics are sometimes mystifyingly misprinted. A friendly waiter keeps topping up our drinks, so by the time we leave we’ve racked up a VND450,000 bill.

3am Back to the backpackers’ lair, Crazy Buffalo (cnr of Bui Vien & De Tham, Q1) shines like a beacon on the corner. A few people lounge on tables outside, and upstairs in the club, customers are similarly posed. The music is loud and a drinks menu lists beers priced VND45,000 to VND80,000. Slightly more reasonably, cocktails are

about VND90,000 including their notorious Long Island Ice Tea. With enough friends, the club’s atmosphere quickly picks up, but we head across the road to see what’s happening there instead.

3.30am Go2 is still cheery downstairs at this predawn hour, with a group of people playing pool and a few tables of friends sharing drinks. The club upstairs is also pretty busy, though there is confusion over the entrance price with the bouncers asking VND150,000 for men and seemingly nothing for women. It’s unclear whether these prices are set in stone or determined by how short a woman’s skirt is. Beer costs a painful VND75,000 at this time of night, but the cocktail list looks inviting, starting at VND100,000. The lights in the club leave psychedelic coloured dots bouncing over your body and the atmosphere is highspirited, especially considering how late it’s getting.

6am Before deciding to drop our heads onto a pillow, we head to the all-night casino at the Sheraton (88 Dong Khoi, Q1) to try our luck at blackjack and the slots. It's a little intimidating walking in through the fancy foyer, but the image of winning the jackpot spurs us past the desk staff and up to the casino room. Because of the cloudy gambling laws for Vietnamese nationals, we were told to show our foreign national passports. An hour or two of excitement and disappointments later, we leave with considerably lighter pockets, and finally call it one helluva night.

photo by EJ chUnG

Midnight

The time difference between Vietnam and the west means that there’s always sport on at some godforsaken hour. Boston Sports Bar (175/6 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1) is warmly lit and a few dedicated fans sit watching TV screens and sipping Tiger draught for VND33,000. It’s been a long night so the all-night kitchen is a welcome sight with breakfast for VND65,000 and pizza for VND70,000 to VND260,000.

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MYSTERY DINER

With a new critic at the helm, will upscale seafood restaurant Song Ngu please or disappoint our pundit on their first day on the job?

Song Ngu 70-72 Suong nguyet Anh, Q1 tel: 3832 5017

o stranger to being knee deep in shrimp shells on any given day, I was rather excited to be reviewing upscale seafood restaurant Song Ngu. In this town there are two ways to enjoy coastal cuisine — either in front of a cheap stainless steel table on the street or in highend restaurants with expensive tableware. Song Ngu belongs to the latter. While a majority of my experience lies firmly in the former, the extensive menu presented to our party as we sat was a nice departure from the finger pointing ordering I’m used to. The beautiful high-ceiling entrance leading off the street as well as an abundance of greenery felt immediately promising. It certainly looked like we were in for a very traditional experience. And to some extent this would prove to be true. On the one hand the intricately painted china and waitresses in formal ao dai floating around gave a definite Vietnamese feel. Yet the textured walls and odd motifs gave the décor a Mask of Zorro flare that was fairly confusing. Despite the threat of Antonio Banderas vaulting over our table and spilling the soy sauce, we started our night with the cua lot sot trung muoi (soft shell crab with salted egg yolk). Being used to soft shell crab coming in piles of irregular sized crispy morsels, we were surprised that the restaurant priced theirs individually, but luckily despite the size of the portion, the salted egg yolk gave the little crustaceans a welcome richness and decadence. The crab itself had a great texture, but the flavour does fight for prominence against the egg and did get lost after the second or third mouthful.

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Simply Done

While waiting for our main course a troupe of traditional Vietnamese musicians began to play for the diners. Personally I like a bit of classical Vietnamese music and the discordant sounds of the instruments creeping over the room were a nice touch, even if the volume was sometimes a little overpowering. Deciding to test the restaurant’s ability to do the simple food we love well, we ordered tom ram man, a salty sweet shrimp dish with a nice chilli hook, canh chua ca loc (sour soup with river fish) and bo nuong dua (beef in coconut). For the vegetarian in our midst we also ordered rau cai ro xao toi (mustard orchid with garlic) and all round favourite rau muong (morning glory) and the very basic dau hu chien don (deep-fried tofu). The tom ram man was a small portion size considering the price, but luckily the warmth and spice of the sate as well as the bite of the salt were enough to give the dish depth, and it came with enough sauce for the left over rice. Forget the tired overcooked limpness of canh chua ca loc you’ve had before, this one was very much alive and kicking, full of fresh herbs and vegetables, chunks of impossibly smooth fish and a broth we very nearly swam in. A dish that split the group’s opinion was the bo nuong dua — a coconut stuffed full of velvety smooth beef and onion. Despite its exciting presentation, it was rather bland in seasoning, and although the meat did retain a slight hint of the fruit it was cooked in, the consensus was

more a case of style over quality. The real star, however, was the rau cai ro, which had a tender bite to it, similar to that of Swiss THE PRICES chard, and a great balance between flavour Cua loT SoT and substance. We TRung muoI ended up fighting over VND77,000/crab every morsel. Tom Ram man We all agreed that VND128,000 Song Ngu needed an edge, and that what it CanH CHua Ca lacked in individuality loC VND128,000 and décor it certainly made up for with Bo nuong dua exceptional and VND143,000 attentive service. Even though fruit and ice Rau CaI Ro xao ToI cream were the only VND78,000 dessert options, we did leave happy customers. Rau muong However, with a VND58,000 plethora of similar seafood restaurants to dau Hu CHIEn don choose from in Saigon, VND55,000 it struggles to stand out from the crowd. THE VERdICT Food, decor and service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15: 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

11 14 7 FOOD

SERVICE

DÉCOR

LEISuRE

Cache the Stash Don your walking shoes and grab your smartphone because it’s time to go hunting for treasure in Saigon. Words by James Pham. Photos by EJ Chung

here’s a reason why movies like Pirates of The Caribbean and books like The Da Vinci Code have experienced enormous popularity — everyone loves a good treasure hunt. Nowadays, thanks to geocaching, an increasingly mainstream sport combining technology and adventure, treasure hunting isn’t relegated to the world of fantasy. Chances are, you’ve driven by a hidden stash right here in Ho Chi Minh City without even knowing it. It all started with a simple announcement from then US President, Bill Clinton. As of midnight on May 1, 2000, the United States removed ‘selective availability’, the intentional degradation of the Global Positioning System (GPS) signals originally designed for military use. Immediately,

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GPS devices were 10 times more accurate than they were previously. The government predicted this would lead to improved responses to emergency calls, hunters being able to recover game and fishermen being able to mark their favourite fishing spots. What they didn’t foresee was Dave Ulmer, a GPS enthusiast, going out the very next day to leave a black bucket in the woods of Oregon, USA and posting the coordinates to an internet user group. Within days, users found the stash, which included a log book, a pencil, various prizes and the mantra: Take some stuff, leave some stuff. Finders posted their experiences online and a new sport was born.

What It’s All About It didn’t take long for this modern day

(now made even easier with smart phones and iPhones with GPS functions) and coordinates. Players create a free membership on a geocaching website (the largest and oldest being www.geocaching. com) and search for caches using various options (country, latitude / longitude, area code, etc.) and the help of their GPS device to navigate to the hidden cache. Once found, players sign the log book, replace the cache and log their experience online.

What’s The Cache? treasure hunting to catch on. Within a week, the first GPS Stash Hunt website went live with stashes soon showing up in other States. Within two weeks, the game went international, first in New Zealand then Chile. By the end of the month, the term “geocache” officially replaced “geostash” (deemed by some as sounding illegal) as the name of this new outdoor sport. Geocaching then got a mainstream boost when in May 2001, the marketing machine of 20th Century Fox hid caches all around the world filled with movie artifacts for the upcoming Planet of the Apes summer blockbuster. More than 10 years later, there are now over 1.8 million active caches and 5 million geocachers worldwide. The essence of geocaching is simple. All that’s required is a GPS receiver

At the bare minimum, a cache is a sturdy, weatherproof receptacle containing a log book. Caches come in various sizes, from “nano” and “micro” (think a 35mm film canister or smaller) with space for only a small rolled up log book, to “large”, meaning at minimum a 20L container. Geocachers refer to what’s inside as SWAG (depending on who you ask, “Stuff We All Get” or “Souvenirs, Wearables and Gifts”), items that the cache owner or visitors have left. Swag can be anything, but some of the more interesting examples are specialised coins, travel bugs (items meant to be moved to a specific place, “Take this to the Louvre!”, or taken on a specific activity like going on a helicopter ride) or trackables (an item with a unique code

which allows its movement to be tracked online). The rule of swag remains the same from the very first ever cache: If you take something, leave something of equal or greater value behind.

The Hunt On a sunny afternoon, I head out with Dyanne Kruger, a resident of the city and geocaching enthusiast who’s logged more than 1,000 finds all around the globe. We’re on the hunt for Saigon’s first micro cache, originally hidden in 2006, amazingly in a densely populated part of town. “Hiding a cache is difficult in Ho Chi Minh City,” she explains. “There are so many people around and they’re very curious about what you’re doing. You have to be careful of muggles (a term borrowed from the Harry Potter series for nongeocachers).” As the metres count down on our GPS device, we surreptitiously approach a common structure set in a well-used park, a group of kids playing football a stone’s throw away and sellers walking by every few minutes. I reach up and experience the thrill of the hunt when I find the magnetized film canister filled with coins from around the world and a tiny rolled up log book. My first find. This one was relatively easy, rated 2

for Difficulty and 1.5 for Terrain (out of a possible 5) and has been found by more than 70 people since the beginning of the year. Caches, though, can be much more difficult to find and figure out. Dyanne talks about an especially satisfying find which was a long PVC pipe mounted to a fence in a residential neighbourhood. Through a small hole, she could see the film canister inside, but there was seemingly no way to get to it. Twenty minutes later and with supplies from a nearby grocery store, she plugged up the hole with chewing gum, poured water into the top of the pipe and smiled as the cache rose to the top. “For newbies, it’s all about the swag. For the rest of us, it’s the thrill of the hunt, the creativity displayed by the cache owner and the problem solving required to get to the cache,” she says. I check to make sure there are no muggles around before covertly replacing the cache. This is just one of the more than 40 caches hidden throughout Vietnam including one under a bridge in Hanoi, near the cable car in Danang, at the top of Mt. Fansipan and one that involves swimming and climbing on Cat Ba Island. So, time to satisfy your inner Jack Sparrow and start caching in.

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LEISuRE

The Amazing Race The internationally popular reality game show made its debut in Vietnam earlier this year. As only foreigner to have participated in the race, Richie Humphrey, tells us about the experience. Photos provided by The Amazing Race Vietnam

m I going to die? My hands and feet tingle sharply as I peer over the edge of the roof to the ground 20 metres below. A man resembling my mechanic back in Saigon straps me into ill-fitting safety gear, the only foreignersized set available. He attaches me to the abseiling rope and gives rapid instructions in Vietnamese that I don’t completely understand. I worry the rope won’t hold my weight, but there is only one way to find out. Before my leap of faith, the cameraman zooms in on my strained face, “Super so,” I utter under my breath, “Super scared.” Mimi squints and strains her neck to see me at the top of My Dinh Stadium during the opening challenge on this first day of The

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Amazing Race Vietnam. I jump, she screams, and the rope holds. Exhilarated, I enjoy the panoramic view of Hanoi during my slow descent, the only peaceful moment I will have on this day. The rest of the afternoon we battle the viscous Hanoi heat on a high-speed scavenger hunt around the Old Quarter. The stress of running around the narrow, shop-lined streets makes us both tired and irritable. With a goofy smile, I attempt to lift spirits with our pre-arranged codeword “watermelon”, a reminder to smile for the camera. Mimi doesn't smile. “C’mon, watermelon!” I urge again. She doesn’t respond, but the exhausted, semi-crazed, Samuel L Jackson-

esque look in her eye dares me, “Say watermelon one more time and…”

Get Ready, Set, Go Two weeks earlier, Mimi, a K-pop loving, bubble-tea drinking, university senior, had never heard of The Amazing Race. “There are 10 teams of two. Every episode is a leg of the race filmed in a different location around Vietnam where we will complete challenges and search for clues to get to the finish line.” I explained in my best Vietnamese. “The team who comes in last each leg gets eliminated. The winner at the end gets VND300 million.” Going into the race, I knew Mimi wasn’t an athlete, but I didn’t think she would end

up in the emergency room on day one. We had just finished the scavenger hunt and were sprinting to the finish line when Mimi collapsed with 20 metres to go. As I gallantly carried her the rest of the way, I wondered what music they would play when they showed this on TV. When she is unable to stand up on the finishing mat, we are rushed to the hospital. She remains unconscious for two long hours while she is given fluids intravenously. Later that night, after further examination and x-rays, the doctors release her with a clean bill of health, just a little heat stroke. At this point I am worried for Mimi’s health and want to quit the race, but Mimi is adamant we continue. In the end, we decide to race on, but after that something changes in both of us. Winning is no longer a priority.

Keep On, Keeping On The second leg is harder than the first, but we make it a point to take frequent breaks. When we have to carry a bucket of water up the steep face of Song Da, Southeast Asia’s largest dam, we stop to breathe in the view of the lake below. While hiking up the Hoa Binh Mountains in search of the ‘Jungle of haunted rock tombs’, we laugh so hard the crisp air stings our nostrils. Even when I have to shovel pungent manure as part of a farming challenge, I joke with the colourfully dressed

Muong farmer lady. At the beginning of the third leg, I am blindfolded and ushered into a fenced area where I must catch a goat. Covered in mud, I hold out my arms like a milk chocolate zombie following cues from Mimi. “JUMP!” Mimi shrieks. I fly through the air and successfully catch the leg of Binh, a girl from another team, which causes the normally quiet production crew to burst into laughter. After a few more attempts, I am successful, and we receive instructions to find a boat at nearby Hoa Lu Lake. Rowing the boat across the lake was a struggle, but we finally reach the other side. We then climb the 214 steps to the top of Unicorn Mountain where we meet the world’s cutest child monk who asks us, “How many steps did you just climb?” Unlike the American version, teams on the The Amazing Race Vietnam tend not to collaborate or make alliances. As we leave the lake I see another team, Heo and Bun, and tell them about the 214 steps. After this episode aired, one internet comment read, “Richie was caught cheating on TV.”

At the Finish Line The fourth leg begins with a leisurely bicycle ride through a valley of rice paddies and water buffaloes. An hour later, green fields give way to dusty, mountain slopes.

The sun burns away clouds and goes to work on my exposed skin. Over the next four hours, I try various tactics to push Mimi up hilly roads that never end. As the sun sets, we reach the entrance to Cuc Phuong National Park, which is guarded by thousands of friendly, white butterflies who chase me down the tree-lined road like a school of dolphins playing in the wake of a dive boat. After cycling the 57 kilometres, I spend the final hour of my 15 minutes of fame spelunking the Cave of Prehistoric Man, conquering the maze in the Firefly forest, and giving a farewell kiss to a sleepy python. When host Dustin Nguyen tells us we’ve come in last place and are eliminated from the race, I have mixed emotions. Mostly, I am proud that we pushed through to the end without giving up. If we had gone home after the first leg, there’s no doubt I would have been disappointed. But we went on to enjoy three more exciting adventures, saw some beautiful parts of Vietnam, and made friends along the way. We gave our best and lost fair and square. I can’t imagine a more amazing experience. For more info, visit www.cuocduakythu.vtv. vn/Home/Index.aspx To view clips from the show, go to YouTube and type in The Amazing Race Vietnam.

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LEISuRE

Elf Yourself Tired of living in reality, Ed Weinberg (better known as ESPN in the elven community) enters a mythical kingdom of wizards, Kybo bucks and clay statues. Photos by Charles Barnes

t was 9.30 on a morning I was planning to sleep through when I got an urgent text from my whimsical friend MJ: “Hey! Get down to 141 Phan Xich Long, I have a magical surprise for youuu…” I tried to go back to sleep, but the mystery kept me awake. I eventually wrote back, “What is it?” But I was negotiating from a position of weakness and when she wouldn't tell me, I caved. Taking my bike out to Phu Nhuan I found the address on a building looking very different from the steel and concrete ones around it. It was fronted by a fissured, watermarked wood exterior, the kind that you can practically smell the authenticity in. MJ (elf name: Majestic José) was in the bakery wearing a headband with pointed fabric ears drooping off the sides, collaborating with a flowery-bloused woman on the frosting of a squat brown

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SO YOu WANT TO BE AN ELF? A taxonomy of elf types

cake. She gave me a mischievous grin and elbowed over a plate of cupcakes.

A Faerie Tale I asked her, “What is this place?” and she told me, “Welcome to the Elf Cafe.” Well that's not exactly right — the name on the sign is Ba Cay Choi — but like everything else here, a little whimsy is encouraged. On meeting owner and head dreamer Ms Bui Tuong Anh, I begin to see where all this whimsy comes from. You might think Anh is part faerie but you'd be wrong. She's a wizard, like me, and she can be a bit of a trickster. Her elf name is Comet, “a bad luck star.” She laughs when she tells me this and says, “But I hope I'm not real bad luck for my staff — 'Oh, Comet comes!'“ When you enter Three Brooms Town — the English translation of Ba Cay Choi — you begin to get a sense of her crafty effects. You can get a jaunty little hat or

maybe a garland of plastic flowers in the bank at the entrance, and exchange your real-world currency into elf bucks, called Kybo. You take on a frivolous identity and prepare to enter the dreamtime. The present location isn't the fixed extent of the kingdom. Rather, Anh thinks of it as a gate into an idea of a world — not one bound up in walls and earth, but one where anything is possible, so long as you can think it up. The remaining four levels of the cafe run the gamut of fantasy experience, from cozy treehouse lounge to pirate beer hall to 3D movie theatre. There's a meetingcum-dining room, outfitted Arthurian style, which hosts business meetings and birthday parties, and one day maybe archery tournaments. A model village workshop has prefab unassembled replicas of the houses of the mythical town. The elven fabric workshop has clay statues for citizens to paint, and clothes to line

with velvet and lace. Helpful elves are everywhere, even behind the scenes — such as the factory Anh staffs with retired elves, who bring her models to life.

A Game of Poisonous Football The idea for Ba Cay Choi sprung from a trip to the Hong Kong Toys and Games Fair in January 2011, and a side trip to Hong Kong Disneyland. Anh saw younger and older adults all around her, outnumbering the children maybe five to one. And this is something she'd never quite realised — older people were just as interested in playing and having fun as kids. This dreaminess is something her 10 years working in the investment field didn't extinguish, and she wanted to share it with like-minded people. “Even older people need somewhere to be romantic,” Anh explains. ”So I think it's really lovely if I can make some place to have them enter and make them dream.”

She eventually envisions more branches, and maybe a theme park. “It's later!” she says, as her dream sprawls into the more and more ambitious and fantastic. There's even a plan to develop a national sport — poisonous football, where teammates give one another piggyback rides, the one on top yelling to scare a blowfish into puffing up into a ball big enough to score an asyet-undefined goal. But the concept is already in place. It's a gift to her children — elf names Forest Fool and Mushroom — who she's afraid will play games all the time, and turn into “robots, be lazy, be weird, and their lives will be terrible.” It's a gift to those who need to escape into solitude to find their ideal reality, one where “you're not afraid of who you are, you're not afraid of how people judge you.” And it's a gift to anyone who's never imagined anything different than the world they live in every day.

kniGhts A gallant, dumb chaser of dragons. They often look like ducks in their creaky armour. Faeries Little pixies that fly around looking cute... and they know it. They've got a bit of cleverness as well. wizards These fellows are wise and intelligent but often cranky, sometimes downright evil. As Anh says, “You know, between good and bad is a grey area.” elVes Only staff at Ba Cay Choi can be of this blood. They tend to be wiser and more beautiful than humans, lovers of nature, art and music... so in other words, you'll be in good hands. Ba Cay Choi is located at 141 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan and at bacaychoi.com

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WELLNESS

The Pharmacist James Pham speaks to a local chemist about her work behind the counter. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

hen a recent unforgiving 10-hour night bus ride back from Nha Trang left me feeling under the weather, I did what so many Saigonese do, I headed to my nearest pharmacy. “What are your symptoms?” asked the woman in the white coat. “Sore throat and a slight fever,” I managed to croak back. “How many days do you want to take medication for?” “Umm. I don’t really know. Two?” With that, she made up six neat little packages, each containing four pills retrieved from cabinets marked “No Prescription Needed” and “With Prescription Only”. I recognised two of the tablets as Cipro (short for Ciproflaxacin, a common antibiotic) and Paracetamol, an over-the-counter pain / fever reliever. “What’s this pink one for?” I ask pointing to the pill that had no labelling, something she seemed to have added to the packages as an afterthought. “For colds,” came the succinct answer. And VND30,000 later, I was on my way. This scenario is repeated countless times in the reportedly nearly 3,000 pharmacies scattered around the city. This may come as a surprise — overseas the local pharmacist is often a nameless, faceless entity tasked with filling prescriptions or ringing up over-the-counter purchases. However, for many local residents, going to the local pharmacist is seen as a preferable alternative to visiting a public hospital which usually entails arriving in the early hours of the morning to take a number followed by hours of waiting to see a doctor. “For many, coming to the pharmacist is cheaper and less time-consuming,” says Khanh Thuy, a licensed pharmacist who has owned her own store for 15 years in Binh Thanh. “People come mainly for colds and flu, coughs and runny noses. Others come to have their prescriptions filled. However, there are certain types of illnesses where I would advise people to go see the doctor, especially for high blood pressure and heart problems.”

The Counter Treatment Without the benefit of medical tests and patient history, diagnosing a patient and prescribing medication simply based on a brief conversation can be tricky at best and fatal at worst. The Ministry of Health has recognised the need to regulate and support how medicine is dispensed. A VND1.6 billion project, supported by the Asian Development Bank and the Australian government, aims to improve training facilities at 18 medical universities and colleges by 2015. In

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early 2011, all pharmacies were meant to comply with Good Pharmacy Practices (GPP) and those that didn’t would no longer be allowed to sell prescription drugs. Among other requirements, the GPP standards oblige all licensed pharmacies to have a certified pharmacist with a five-year degree at the counter. The pharmacy must have an area of at least 10m2 and have the facilities to store medicine in accordance with drug specifications, taking into consideration temperature, direct sunlight and humidity. Medicine not sold in its original packaging must be accompanied by information including the name of the drug, storage instructions, dosage and precautions. The origin of all drugs must be clearly visible and expired drugs cannot be sold. In addition, according to directives, personal information of all customers must be kept in the event of a drug recall or other emergency. Thuy confirms that “the [authorities] come by to inspect [her shop] every six months or so. But we’re given four to six weeks’ notice, so there’s always time to prepare. The regulations are strict and expensive to comply with for a small pharmacy like mine. I know of some people who voluntarily closed up shop because they knew they could not meet the GPP standards.” One of the obstacles in standardising pharmacies across the city is the attitude of the consumer. For many, it’s become commonplace to ask for antibiotics to alleviate the symptoms of the flu and actually needing a prescription for certain medications is seen as a nuisance. “We have to cater to the needs of the consumer,” continues Thuy. “They might only have money to buy medicine for a few days and then come back for more. For others, they start feeling better or forget to take their medication and never come back. So in the case of antibiotics where the normal course is five days, people may only take it for a couple of days.” Recent hospital surveys have indicated that antibiotic resistance is on the rise, which means that common antibiotics may not be as effective as before. With the prevalence of medical websites like www.webmd.com where users can enter their symptoms and diagnose themselves or in areas where qualified medical aid may be inaccessible or too expensive, self-medication is tempting. However, while more convenient and often less expensive in the short term, caution is required. As The New Encyclopædia Britannica writes, “One of the striking characteristics in the medical field in the 20th century has been the development of new drugs… Probably more poisoning is due to medicines than to any other cause.”

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GENERATION V

The Grups* As a father himself, Michael Arnold, finds out if a new conceptual entertainment centre is worth his kid’s time. Photos provided by KizCiti

he orange glow of open flame licks menacingly at the French windows as the silhouette of a fireman hunched over the burning wreckage is just made out beneath the balcony. To the side, an instructor with a megaphone yells directions at a team of 15 helmeted recruits standing at a row of fire hoses — Left! Right! Up! Even though most of these firemen-in-training dousing the blaze are barely a few feet tall at best, they’ll be paid for this work — a total of five kizos each. They'll be able to spend this money elsewhere in the game park on anything they like — getting a makeover at the beauty salon, for example, or taking a flight on the replica Air Mekong aircraft. They may even choose to deposit their money at the KizCiti Bank on-site, which they will then be able to withdraw and spend on subsequent visits. The premise behind KizCiti (Khanh Hoi Park, top of Hoang Dieu, Q4) is that it’s a pint-sized simulation of real adult life in which playing a grown-up goes way beyond dressing up in daddy's clothes. The entry ticket (VND180,000 weekdays, VND220,000 weekends and holidays; adults VND20,000) gives each child 20 kizos which they can use to take part in any of the charged activities in the park. If that starts to run low, they can enlist in one of the educationoriented games where they’ll learn a ‘trade’ and earn more to spend. Most of activities booths are sponsored by real Vietnamese companies such as TH True Milk, Vinawa Water, and Kinh Do Bakery, and would take the average child a few hours to work their way around.

Work and Play The variety of activities is fascinating. Among the ‘professions’ kids can learn are portrait photography at the Sony Studio, doctoring at the hospital (you’ll see groups of kids rushing their patients across the forecourt on stretchers), fixing a realistic-looking vehicle at the Audi workshop, or even creating new concept vehicles at the car design studio. Kids over 1.35m tall can attend a road code class at the driving school to get a special driver’s license — they’ll need one if they want to take a mini race

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car out on the track. Interestingly, there’s even a police booth where the kids can wear realisticlooking police uniforms. We was assured that the participants would not be collecting kizo fines from the other children. Conceptually, this falls into the category of those truly inspiring ideas that manage to give rise to something extraordinary. That this has actually happened in Ho Chi Minh City is the work of the founder Le Quang Hung, who opened the park on Christmas Eve last year. Having seen something of the kind in Malaysia, Le realised the potential of the model to present kids with a far more intriguing level of challenge than the tired old roller coasters and dreary pony rides of other theme parks. We can't say with confidence that it's operating at quite the level it should be, however. After less than a year in operation, the park still looks unfinished — there are a couple of new developments underway, sure, and there are likely to be more activities included once more sponsors come on board, But the neat kizo ATMs are still offline, and many sponsors have missed the opportunity to make their offices as inspiring as they could be. In fact, KizCiti's greatest failing is its workers — park management has not grasped the value of hiring vibrant, kid-friendly staff, and most po-faced attendants stand about miserably as if they're being underpaid. They do undergo rigorous safety training, but their lack of enthusiasm will do little to assuage the doubts of safety-conscious parents. The park needs to bite the bullet and hire genuine kid-friendly professionals to bring the vibe up to where it should be. The ultimate test, though, is how the kids like it. We asked seven-year-old Truc what she thought of the park, but she didn't have time to chat. She had to rush across to the newspaper office to get a story out and earn a few more kizo. We know the feeling. *Grup, is taken from an episode of Star Trek in which Captain Kirk et al. land on a planet of children who rule the world, with no adults in sight. The kids call Kirk and the crew ‘grups,’ which they eventually figure out is a contraction of ‘grown-ups.’

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bag it

Carry on with these amazing totes Photographs by Quinn Ryan Mattingly Modelling by Ariane Nicot-Berenger

Bag by Anupa, VND9.5 million

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Bag by Cao Dong, VND6.25 million

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Clutch by Anupa, VND5.12 million

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Bag by Cao Dong, VND6.56 million. Scarf by Anupa, VND700,000 Anupa, anupa.net Cao Dong, caodongdesign.com.vn

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City Guide BUSINESS LISTINGS 074 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 082 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 092 / SOUND & VISION LISTINGS 110 / LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS 116 / LIFESTYLE LISTINGS 124 / GENERATION V LISTINGS 132 Photo by charles barnes

A D D I T I O N A L F E AT U R E S

Destination Zero 084 Travel Note 088 Travel Promos 090 Foodie Corner 100 Cafe Critique 106 Food Promos 108 For The Record 111 Road Rules 112 In The Frame 113 Decks 'n' Drums 114

BuSINESS

LISTINGS

ACCOuNTING & AuDITING 074 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 074 BuSINESS CONSuLTING 076 BuSINESS GROuPS 076 CONSuMER GIFTS 077 EVENT MANAGEMENT 077 EXPAT SERVICES 077 HOuSING & REAL ESTATE 077 INSuRANCE 078 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 078

ACCOuNTING & AuDITING BuREAu VERITAS

E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 2196 www.bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions firm working in all the major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC. Has over 900 offices worldwide in 140 countries.

DELOITTE VIETNAM

11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0751 www.deloitte.com/vietnam A member firm of Deloitte Touche

KPMG

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

LANGuAGE SCHOOLS 078 LAuNDRY 079 LEGAL SERVICES 080 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 080 MARKET RESEARCH 080 PuBLIC RELATIONS 080 RECRuITMENT & HR 080 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 080 SERVICED APARTMENTS 081

Tohatsu. Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS

4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3827 0220 www.globaleye.com A financial advisory company that advises on everything from investments, offshore banking and education planning to life protection wills, pensions and more. Globaleye provide an invaluable resource for expats living in Vietnam who want to maintain tax efficient savings while having access to major fund houses such as Fidelity & JP Morgan from only VND3 million a month, and also to have the right insurance protection for families living on foreign soil.

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9266 www.kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides executive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOuRCES LIMITED

7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: 3812 5562 www.odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

PRICEWATERHOuSECOOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions, as well as tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years of experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

TMF GROuP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 2262 TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services.

Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING ADMAKER

Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3910 3500 www.admaker.com.vn A local full service agency run by advertising professionals dedicated to providing clients with results orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

BATES 141 VIETNAM

Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1 Tel: 3821 8632 www.bates141.com A full service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group. Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

BBDO VIETNAM

74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 6662 www.bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

COWAN – STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 3064 www.cowandesign.com Specialising in brand strategy and brand

design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies. Wholly owned with seven global offices — three of which are in Asia and working extensively across India, Southeast Asia and North Asia.

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM

13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn Draftfcb is one of the largest global advertising agency networks with headquarters in both Chicago and New York. Has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries including many in the region.

EDGE MARKETING

1Bis Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 3911 1191 www.edge–asia.com A creative marketing company that matches the results–driven requirements of modern business with the needs of the consumer. Embraces a wide range of modern technology and concepts to help provide a full–service marketing package to their clients.

GREY GROuP

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3929 1450 www.grey.com/vietnam A full spectrum marketing communications company, Grey Group’s work includes PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Has offices in nearly 100 countries and major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDuSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Villa B,12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: 3740 6388 www.industrialdesignasia.com Offers (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for all products; plastics, consumer products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia. Contact them to get a free quotation.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1, Tel: 3914 3615 www.marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented campaigns that have been selected as global best practice by both international and local clients.

OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9529 www.ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know–how with a worldwide network. Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

PHIBIOuS

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 6777 www.phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company growing fast throughout Indochina. Now with offices in Saigon, Phnom Penh and an association in Vientiane, Phibious employs over 70 staff that are driven towards helping brands connect and grow in this dynamic region. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PuRPLE ASIA

Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3898 1005 www.purpleasia.com A leading independent creative communications company. Offers a wide

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range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

RED | BRAND BuILDERS

10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: 3820 0169 www.red.vn Long established, branding consultancy and marketing agency. From Vietnam to Australia, the red team create and shape unique brand personalities that add impact to international and local brands. The team regularly share industry trends, news and views at red.tm/blog.

RIVER ORCHID

Tel: 3925 2538 www.riverorchid.com The only communications network specialising in Indochina including Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade. Riverorchid specialises in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

SAATCHI & SAATCHI

3 Phan Van Dat, Q1 Tel: 3824 1207 www.saatchi.com 60th among the top 100 global advertising agencies, the company has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world. Services include advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting, graphic design and advertising.

TBWA\VIETNAM

Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3824 5315 www.tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, named Advertising Age’s “Best International Network of the Decade” in 2010 and ranked 24th on Fast Company’s 2009 list of “The World’s 50

Most Innovative Companies”. Marketing services include strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

TYA VIETNAM

3rd Floor, Lafayette Building, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3956 www.tya.com.vn Established 1982 in Japan, TYA is a strategic creative agency with a growing network across Asia Pacific. TYA uses this strength to match clients’ diverse business strategies. Their international team offers the TYA brand of strategic creative that strives to satisfy clients' business objectives to the fullest.

XONE FM

100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 5341 www.xonefm.com The first independently run radio station in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest and hottest songs in both English and Vietnamese. Has 10 channels throughout the country, in Ho Chi Minh City on 104.5 FM and Hanoi on 102.7 FM. The schedule runs from Monday to Friday from 6am to 9am, 4pm to 11pm and at the weekends between 1pm and 11pm.

XPR BRAND COMMuNICATIONS

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, el: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities

business for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

BuSINESS CONSuLTING BDG VIETNAM

11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3823 7858 www.bdg–vietnam.com BDG is one of the leading business development and consulting company in Vietnam active in the areas of sourcing & production, strategic marketing and Project Management. Partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open new perspectives, address critical challenges and drive business activities to success in Vietnam. BDG is a private company with four offices in three countries.

CONCETTI

33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

DL TECHNOLOGIES

69A1 Tran Ke Xuong, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3551 2260 www.dltechnologies.com.au DL Technologies provide premium integrated technology solutions with emphasis on local “on the ground” support from a highly skilled and continually trained international team. Services include background music systems, lighting management and control systems, security & access control systems, premium audio and video with automated controls, discreet audio and video, home theatre, iPad-based home control / audio video control systems, air-conditioning control and energy management systems.

business ERNST & YOuNG

8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

GOLDEN SPEED SEO

www.goldenspeedseo.com info@goldenspeedseo.com Get maximum exposure for your website by improving your rankings in search engines like Google. A steady flow of potential clients will visit your site every day once you have achieved a good position on search engines' results pages. Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

GRANT THORNTON

28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants working in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Huong Nguyen is a professional Image Consultant based in Ho Chi Minh City and the UK. An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES (VIETNAM) COMPANY LIMITED 8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3829 6416 www.prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering technical expertise in the areas of data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROuSE

6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Specialist intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services. From the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services, include IP filing and management services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com Incorporation of offshore and foreign– owned Vietnamese companies. Opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts, providing licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing. Also provides, investment strategies and administration services for foreign-owned companies based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROuP INTERNATIONAL

Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0904 410884 www.strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL is a strategic solutions provider serving as a long-term strategic partner with senior leaders and organisations in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Focuses on the future, striving to deliver superior results, customer value and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions, derived from a combination of research-based best-practice, consulting and learning with a focus on change, people, strategy and leadership.

TRACTuS ASIA LTD

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 6291 2205 www.tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia. Their core strengths are corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion, and market research. Offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Thailand, China and India.

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XAGE CONSuLTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402, www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

BuSINESS GROuPS AMCHAM

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3824 3562. www.amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AuSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

Ho Chi Minh Chapter, Suite 1A, 1st Floor, TV Building, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0272/ 73/ 74 www.auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group in Vietnam established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating here. AusCham co–ordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations, and promotes profile charity events in Vietnam.

BRITISH BuSINESS GROuP OF VIETNAM

25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3829 8430 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM

Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums about doing business in Vietnam. Offers an array of seminars as well as social and networking events.

NORDCHAM

12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

PHILIPPINES BuSINESS GROuP VIETNAM

C3 Floor 5, 21-Century Apartment, 326/1 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh www.pbgvn.com A non-profit, non-government, and non-political organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding, to serve as the voice of Philippine business entities and establish relationships with other business associations in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BuSINESS GROuP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcm.org A group with over 300 members who meet regularly to foster business relations with others in the community, as well as taking part in social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities. Hosts regular networking functions and special events. Membership is VND200,000 per month and allows you access to a wide range of discounts around town.

SWISS BuSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: 3744 6996 www.swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a nongovernmental, non-political, non-profit organisation that strives to promote business, economic, cultural activities and other interests of common concern to the Swiss Business Association’s members and the Vietnamese authorities.

CONSuMER GIFTS AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD.

14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3824 8364 manish@ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and much more.

EVENT MANAGEMENT EVECOO

Tel: 0988 297990 www.evecoo.vn Evecoo provides everything needed to plan, supply, organise, publicise, improve and implement a successful event. Evecoo gives every client specific attention and adds the needed magic to make any event memorable.

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3825 6048 www.galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall in the centre of District 1 has four different ballrooms and a rooftop terrace, professional banquet, catering, and event services. Gala Royale is the ideal place for events such as meetings, conferences, product

launchings, cocktail parties, weddings, or anniversaries.

MR BOuNCY INFLATABLE GAME HIRE 50/8 Hoa Binh, Q11, Tel: 0165 6392 507 www.mrbouncy.com.vn Mr Bouncy is an inflatable game hire company, offering great products hiring out a number of inflatables such as waterballs, bouncy castles and many more great items for parties and events.

ONE WORLD TOuRISM CO.,LTD

268/3-5 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan binh Tel: 6675 2620 www.vietnam-weddings.com One World Tourism’s wedding planning business offers comprehensive wedding planning services in Vietnam no matter what size or type of wedding. It is offered to couples seeking high quality, attention to detailed planning and resources, wanting to create the wedding of their dreams, no matter what size, style or location.

monthly bill payments, home repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering, computer repair and pet transportation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross–cultural and business awareness training.

HOuSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE

Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news.

Also does research and management services.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 3529/3530 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management, and support services.

CuSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 4707, www.cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy. For further information email hcmc.info@ ap.cushwake.com.

PHOTO OI!

Tel: 01269 502790 www.photooi.com Photo booth rental service that combines digital photography and instant photo printing using only top-of-the-line equipment and materials. Photo Oi! Sets up a booth at any event complete with backdrop and fun props that everyone can use.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to provide the ideal solution for any kind of event.

EXPAT SERVICES CHuM’S HOuSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 7237 www.chumshouse.com A service dedicated to finding people a place to live. With an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference, they can have you moved into a new house within days. Help with motorbike rentals, visas and other information about living in Vietnam is also available. All services provided free of charge.

HAPPY HOuSE

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916, www.happy-house.vn Created by a team of Vietnamese and expat professionals, Happy House aims to make life in Saigon easier for everyone by offering practical solutions for a myriad of problems, including

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business EASY SAIGON

www.easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

Real value in a changing world

JONES LANG LASALLE VIETNAM

26th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3968 www.joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a financial and professional services firm specializing in real estate. We offer integrated services delivered worldwide by expert teams to clients who seek increased value by owning, occupying, or investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, we work and collaborate closely with our colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to our clients in Vietnam. Our offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

KNIGHT FRANK

Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 6777 www.knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896 as a valuations, surveying and auctions business, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOuSE CORPORATION

48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Hotline: 0989 00 77 00 www.namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions, decorations in HCM city especially in District 2. Supporting the professional services and after–sales.

PLATINuM1

Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com This American–based company provides

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a range of comprehensive real estate services. Known for its efficient and dependable service, it has global connections and expertise in the Vietnam real estate market.

SAVILLS VIET NAM LTD.

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is the leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and many other services.

SNAP

www.snap.com.vn A simple, web–based real estate search service. Provides information on rental properties all around the city with full listings available online.

SPOT

18/34b Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 955 877 www.spotvietnam.com Native English speakers specialising in rentals and tenancy management. Spot offers quick and easy complimentary services from start to close.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3520 2000 www.sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and for lease in Vietnam and around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

THE NEST

369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901 www.thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale. Service is orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

TRANSPO PROPERTY (VIETNAM)

Suite 501, Anh Kim Office Building, 43 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3914 7003 http://vietnam.transpo-property.com Transpo Property specialises in finding a suitable residence for their clients, as well as offering a full range of relocation services including school search, preview trips, orientation tours, and whatever else one may need when moving to Vietnam. Also provides a home search service to expats who are already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas.

VIETNAMESE LANGuAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and centrally located facility, in your home, office, or over Skype.

INSuRANCE BAOVIET INSuRANCE

Tel: 3825 8416, www.interglobalvn.com Offers full hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits. Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. Available for anyone up to 74 years of age. No claims discount available.

IF CONSuLTING

1A Me Linh Square, Q1 Tel: 3827 7362 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers to provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

LIBERTY INSuRANCE

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3812 5125, www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1800 599 998.

PRuDENTIAL

Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3823 9355, www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROuP

www.ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering ‘real’ alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social

conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

lessons, including extra-curricular activities during the holidays.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

VIETNAMESE LANGuAGE GARDEN

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: 3820 0623 www.t–wm.com Personal financial planning for expatriates. Portable retirement savings plans for individuals of all nationalities. Tax minimisation strategies. Asset allocation and money management. Debt and cash– flow planning. Life, disability and health insurance. Family wealth protection.

VINACAPITAL

17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9930 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGuAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO EDuCATION & TRAINING

26 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: 3823 3597 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers high– quality and cost–effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

BELL VIETNAM

28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 www.bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM

51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3838 6788 www.ilavietnam.com A foreign owned education and training company that offers a broad range of educational programmes and services such as English language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training, and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L'ATELIER

33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492, www.latelier-anphu.com L’Atelier is a French language centre offering classes in all forms to children and adults, and to French-speaking and foreign residents. Each course is offered in small groups of a maximum of four people or in private class. Classes include spelling and grammar tuition after school, monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), and Vietnamese

VLS SAIGON

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: 3910 0168 www.vlsstudies.com A leading professional institution specialising in teaching Vietnamese to international students. Courses range from basic conversational Vietnamese for beginners to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as a range of special courses that take in Vietnamese literature, composition and a crash-course 6-hour survival session. Courses range in intensity and classes take place on and off campus.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGuAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION (NOTARIZED)

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6678 0914 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

VuS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3925 9800 www.vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected non–governmental language institutions in Ho Chi Minh City. The English language

training programmes are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York. Has a number of campuses throughout the city.

LAuNDRY COSMO LAuNDRY & DRY CLEANING

Office: 80 Nguyen Khoa, Q4, Tel: 6261 6868 Valet shops: Circle K Store, 15B1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1; 36 Su Van Hanh, Q5; CRII, The Crescent, Q7; Shop & Go Store, RMIT University 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.cosmolaundry.com Cosmo Laundry & Dry Cleaning offers professional and reliable laundry & dry cleaning services for executive officers, expatriates and business associations in Ho Chi Minh City.

MICKEY LAuNDRY

203 Bui Vien, District 1 29 Hung Gia 4 St, Q7 F4 Luong Dinh Cua, Q2, Tel: 2244 4466 Now in three convenient locations, Saigon’s leading laundry does wash and fold, dry-cleaning and ironing, along with a range of specialised services including spot removal, colour dyeing, tailoring, repairs, leather cleaning and business shirt service. Free pickup and delivery.

MR CLEAN

16 Tran Khac Chan, Q1 Tel: 2218 8111 www.mrcleanvietnam.com Mr Clean offers dry cleaning and laundry services for everything from wedding and ball gowns, suede and leathers to suits, shirts and jackets, and handbags and luggage. Repairs and alterations and shoe cleaning are also available. Using an oil-based solvent to ensure longer lasting clean clothes, Mr Clean offers free pickup and delivery and same day service.

business LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS ARTHuR ROBINSON

Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 1717, www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE

12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 5585, www.bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provide on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRASERS LAW COMPANY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com The first legal firm to receive a foreign law company license to operate in Vietnam, Frasers Law Company is an integrated team providing international legal advice in a Vietnamese context on all areas of business and commerce to leading global and local companies investing and operating in Vietnam. Ranked in the top tier of international law firms practising in this jurisdiction. Monthly newsletter available by email. GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL (GLN) A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 8599 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services that combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law. INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established at the end of 2006, the firm assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 8860, www.mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994 with offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the firm provides clients with the full range of legal services in all areas of business including corporate, real estate, banking and finance, and all forms of inward investment.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRAINBOX VIETNAM

5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6920 7405, www.brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

ERC INSTITuTE VIETNAM

88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn Based in Singapore with campuses located throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes and corporate training to bachelor programmes in finance, business management and tourism and hospitality management, all the way through to the 12-month MBAs awarded by the Australian Institute of Business Administration.

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G&H

6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9919 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

RMIT

702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7. Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development. Well-known for their MBA programme which can be taken both part and full-time.

XAGE CONSuLTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3822 7727 www.cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

EPINION

11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4 Tel: 3826 8989 www.epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company that operates the largest online panel in Vietnam and offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH

3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6965 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 6314 www.mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997. Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices. Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis, and trade promotion.

SYNOVATE VIETNAM

13th Floor, Room 1312, Khumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 6288 8785 www.synovate.com A global market research company that drives competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies. With offices in 64 countries, Synovate combines global research capabilities with a personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific requirements.

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: 3997 8088 http://vn.nielsen.com Nielsen Holdings N.V. (NYSE: NLSN) is a

global information and measurement company with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties. Nielsen has a presence in approximately 100 countries, with headquarters in New York and Diemen in the Netherlands.

TNS VIETNAM

105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 Tel: 3821 5727 www.tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customised, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PuBLIC RELATIONS MANDARIN MEDIA

www.mandarinmedia.net A public relations, marketing and IT company with offices in Saigon, Hue and Portland (USA). Led by a team of seasoned journalists, Mandarin Media generates news and features about your company in English–language newspapers and magazines worldwide.

MASS GROuP

30 Dang Tat, Q1 www.massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand–building consulting.

MATTERHORN COMMuNICATIONS

Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: 3838 5517 www.matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility, and media and issues management and training.

uNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (uMA)

1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 2220 2989 www.universalmanagementasia.com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

VERO PuBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 6291 0462 www.veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues/ crisis management.

XPR BRAND COMMuNICATIONS

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, Tel: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

RECRuITMENT & HR HR2B/TALENT RECRuITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is currently one of the top three HR consulting firms in Vietnam, specialising in matching senior level professionals to top opportunities in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Other services include: payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

MANPOWER VIETNAM

8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3911 0950 www.manpower.com.vn Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT

4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3820 3115 www.mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing. Works within a wide variety of industries.

NAVIGOS GROuP

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

OPuS VIETNAM RO

2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3827 8209, www.opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups, with over 30 offices worldwide.

ROBERT WALTERS VIETNAM

39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 7900 www.robertwalters.com.vn Robert Walters Vietnam offers a highly professional and specialised recruitments service. With 47 offices in 23 countries, Robert Walters holds an established track record with Asia's leading institutions, from multinational corporations to smaller enterprises. The Vietnam office specialises in permanent jobs across these disciplines: Sales & Marketing, Technical Healthcare, Accountancy & Finance, Banking & Financial Services, Human Resources, IT, Supply Chain, Engineering and Oil & Gas Technical.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM

(formally Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 9488 www.towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Online jobsearch website with probably the best selection of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS

2nd Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 3454 www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL (VIETNAM) LTD.

9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4. Tel: 3826 7799 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers are the largest regional move management specialists with partners all over the world, with services including door to door moving, housing and school

finding, local and office moves, and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS

48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 4237, www.crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 3826 7655 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES – VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 3941 5325 www.logicalmoves.net Specialists in international moves for household goods and used personal effects through our global partner network. Also local, domestic and office moves. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Email Chris Honor at chris@logicalmoves.net for further information.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com Resident Vietnam is the first dedicated relocation company with 11 years of experience in Vietnam and provides full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED 7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: 3826 8850 www.seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam. SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3, Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments for long-term lease, each unit comes fully furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay and range from VND11,825,000 to VND16,125,000 per month. This is inclusive of two gas cylinders, five big bottles of water per month, daily usage of water and parking, thrice-weekly apartment servicing, ADSL Internet, and access to the fitness centre.

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1111 www.cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown with 69 fully–furnished apartments. Facilities include a gym, a pool room, a kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES

Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 8888 www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana

Saigon is the InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences with 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area and is part of the brand-new Kumho Link Asiana Plaza, the city’s finest integrated food and beverage complex featuring commercial, residential and luxury shopping arcade.

JASMINE COuRT

307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh www.jasminecourt.com.vn Located five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with only 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes. Amenities in each apartment include a 32” LCD TV, DVD player and audio system, in-room safe and wireless Internet with broadband connectivity, and a four-fixture en suite with shower.

NORFOLK MANSION

17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3822 6111 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers clients a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steamroom, as well as two on-site restaurants — Shang Palace and Terrazzo Café.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS

53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside–apartments.com Four–hectares of nature on the bank of the Saigon River where all can enjoy the lifestyle of a resort with all the luxury amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located within minutes of the downtown area by high speed boat shuttle service.

SEDONA SuITES

65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one– to–three bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes. Have a range of residential facilities including a gym, squash court, business centre and Minimart.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE

127 Pasteur, Q3,Tel: 3823 2288 www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property in Ho Chi Minh City and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9197 www.somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court and Somerset Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK

5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

DESTINATION LISTINGS

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

PHu QuOC 089 SAPA 089 VuNG TAu, HO TRAM & CON DAO 090 TRAVEL SERVICES 091 COLuMNS DESTINATION ZERO 084 TRAVEL NOTES 088 TRAVEL PROMOS 090

has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa and reasonable prices to match.

ANA MANDARA VILLAS

SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING GYM GYM POOL POOL POOL SWIMMING SWIMMING BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

GYM GYM GYM GYM GYM GYMSWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and every modern amenity, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also

BELOW VND630,000

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS

CREDIT CARD

RESTO-BAR

SMOKING

GYM

SWIMMING POOL

CREDIT CARD

RESTO-BAR

SMOKING

GYM

SWIMMING POOL

BUSINESS

RESTO-BAR

SMOKING

RESTAuRANT & BAR SERVICES

SMOKE-FREE ROOMS

CREDIT CREDIT CARD

GYM

SWIMMING POOL

SMOKING

GYM

SWIMMING POOL

SMOKING

GYM

SWIMMING POOL

SMOKING

GYM

SWIMMING POOL

BUSINESS

BuSINESS FACILITIES

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CREDIT CREDIT

SMOKING CREDIT CREDIT CARD GYM CARD

RESTO-BAR SWIMMING RESTO-BAR POOL SMOKING SMOKING BUSINESS

GYM GYM

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

CREDIT CARD CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING

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$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 382 5444 www.dalatpalace.vn Overlooking central Dalat, the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain further afield, the city’s top and most classic hotel still maintains its original 1920s style and charm. Has 38 rooms and five suites, a gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie serving international and local cuisine, a piano bar, Larry’s Bar in the basement and five meeting rooms. 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private hotel has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from VND500,000 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING

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$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat Tel: 3740 7512 www.lasapinette.com Situated in the centre of Dalat’s famous Liang Biang Plateau, La Sapinette is a first class hotel with traditional, French art nouveau-styled décor. Also has a modern commercial centre, complete with stateof-the art facilities, 91 rooms including one and two-bedroom apartments.

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LA SAPINETTE DALAT

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$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 3827 999 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in the centre of town, this no-frills budget hotel offers 12 basic but nicely decorated and clean guestrooms, all with free Wi-Fi. Rooms start at VND300,000. A coffee shop can be found on the ground floor and the hotel offers airport pickup, bicycle rental, tour information, a laundry service and business centre.

DREAMS HOTEL

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$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com This luxurious and tranquil sanctuary of relaxation is nestled on the gentle and picturesque slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Offering 65 rooms from 17 original French colonial villas, rates start at just over VND 2 million++ and rise to over VND6 million++ per night. Top-notch services and facilities include a personal butler on call from 7am to 10pm, in-villa dining and the La Cochinchine Spa with a range of holistic and therapeutic treatments.

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JOSEPH’S HOTEL

CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat Tel: 063 382 2663 www.thesinhtourist.vn You get door–to–door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it

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$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Hanoi Tel: 04 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property, this 24-storey, mixed use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com Just on the side of beautiful St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a good, comfortable mid–range hotel. Each of the 10 rooms is fitted with cable television, Wi–Fi and a mini bar. The staff is quite helpful and can arrange tours and tickets to many destinations surrounding Hanoi. With room fees starting at $40 a night, and topping out at $50, the small boutique– style hotel offers quite a deal.

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MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

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DALAT

BLuE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA

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CuC PHuONG NATIONAL PARK

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$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com Located only 50 meters away from Hang Cot, the newly built Marigold Hotel Hanoi elegantly combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with a modernised classic facade. The Mimosa Wine Bar & Pub, an Irish bar complete with nightly live Irish music, is located on the top floor, providing excellent views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 8877 Fax: 04 3719 8811 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com Strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is ideal for expatriates who desire a home close to work, and yet offers repose from the bustle of the city. The gold–standard serviced residence is in the Westlake district, an enclave preferred by foreign executives and their families and close to a good selection of quality restaurants, gourmet food shops and decent bars.

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rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including the pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi–Fi connections available.

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DALAT 082 HANOI 082 AROuND HANOI 092 HCMC INTERNATIONAL 083 HCMC DELuXE 085 HCMC MID-RANGE 085 HCMC BuDGET 086 HOI AN & DA NANG 086 HuE & QuANG BINH 086 NHA TRANG 087 PHAN THIET & MuI NE 088

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destination is a fairly basic place to rest those weary feet, but it’s right in the middle of town.

HCMC INTERNATIONAL

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and home to the well-known national primate centre, the accommodation here is in modern rooms, stilt houses or detached bungalows. Includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre and on the road linking the two.

EMERAuDE CLASSIC CRuISES, HALONG BAY

CARAVELLE HOTEL

DuXTON HOTEL

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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude–cruises.com This comfortable yet accurate reproduction of a 19th–century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in small but impeccably maintained cabins. They also offer transfers from Hanoi itself. A great, classic experience.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Maison d’Hanoi provides an elegant respite from the traffic and noise of the city. They have 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have Wi–Fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.4 million for a guest room to VND4.4 million for a suite.

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GOLDEN SILK BOuTIQuE HOTEL

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$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969 www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) daily, replenished minibar and snack basket service in every room. Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails. CREDIT

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SOFITEL METROPOLE

$ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com The cheapest European–style place in town, with bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers, also has a second hostel at 9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem (Tel: 04 3935 1890) close to all the latenight Old Quarter bars and eating spots. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambience of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

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AROuND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this five–star is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that once housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top–end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. Presently undergoing extensive renovation.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

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$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 7566 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good no–frills option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact with small but clean bathrooms

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$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free Internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness centre with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relaxation lounge and VIP massage room.

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MAI CHAu LODGE

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$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Right in the middle of town, the Duxton deserves its luxury appellation with all the features the tired business executive needs including pool, gym, spa, bar and fine dining. The rooms and suites are luxurious. Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets.

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EQuATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Only a ten-minute drive from downtown Saigon, this big and businesslike property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also has some of the biggest banquet facilities in the city and an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

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$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1 Tel: 3925 7777 www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn A five-star luxury hotel with 334 rooms and suites, and 53 serviced apartments. Offers excellent services and facilities for both business and leisure travellers, including 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity grand ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool and gym, Japanese and Chinese restaurants, an all day dining restaurant, and 24-hours room service. Also provides city shuttles, airport transfers, city tours, currency exchange, limousine service, ticketing and mail services.

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NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com Located in a lush valley home to indigenous Vietnamese minority groups, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is a luxurious alternative to the stilt house homestay accommodation offered close by. Has all the usual western amenities in a beautiful setting and every room has a view of either the mountain, lake, pool or valley.

BHAYA CRuISES, HALONG BAY $$$ 52 Hang Trong, Hanoi Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Q3 Tel: 3933 0077 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with

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$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 (Freewheelin’ Tours) info@freewheelin-tours.com www.lavievulinh.com Located 170km northwest of Hanoi and on the banks of Thac Ba Lake, this bamboo-constructed eco lodge close to Yen Bai is situated in one of the most tranquil and visually stimulating areas in Vietnam. Set in a Dao Quan Trang ethnic minority village, accommodation is either in the main stilt-house area or in the rammed earth rooms and starts at VND250,000 per night. Offers a whole host of activities including lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours and walking trips into the surrounding mountains.

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HANOI HILTON

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam–aventure.com This eco–village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in 10 houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

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LA FERME Du COLVERT

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth–floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

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$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 03 3384 8108 www.novotelhalong.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214

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$$$$ Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Intercontinental Asiana Saigon is an exciting destination in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Personalised services await guests in each of the 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a stylish Presidential Suite. The hotel offers signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LEGEND HOTEL

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$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com You’ll notice the difference when you first enter the lobby here – the architect was in serious atrium mode when he drew up the design. There’s no shortage of space in the rooms, either, and a fine selection

of dining, from buffets (the atrium again), to Chinese, Japanese and western.

MOEVENPICK HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.movenpick-hotels.com Located a stone’s throw away from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, this tastefully decorated Swiss-run hotel possesses 278 well appointed rooms and suites, five restaurants and bars, meeting and banquet facilities. The shopping arcade, and popular e-gaming centre make this a preferred option for both business and leisure travellers.

AIRLINES

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NEW WORLD HOTEL

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Bi Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

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RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE

$$$$ 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissance–saigon.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus Kabin, one of the best– regarded Chinese restaurants in the city. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3829 2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history and still possessing a certain fading charm, the Rex is now mainly populated by tour groups, while for the independent traveller it has been comprehensively overtaken in value terms. But its open–air fifth–floor bar is still one of the must–do experiences of the city, and there is now a great gym and spa area on the sixth floor as well. A recent renovation and the addition of the new wing has seen the entry of the top-end designer brands to the shopping arcade of this now five-star property.

SHERATON

AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous–looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation as has the ground floor Italian-themed Opera, and Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

REX HOTEL

AIR ASIA www.airasia.com

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first–class facilities topped by an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com EVA AIRWAYS 4th Floor, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 4488 www.evaair.com JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is the ultimate in French lifestyle, comfort and convenience. This 20–story building in downtown Saigon caters to upscale business and leisure travellers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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WINDSOR PLAZA

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$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Definitely the hotel with the most – its own shopping hub (including a bank), the city’s second biggest discotheque, several restaurants, a sauna, health club and business facilities, and superb panoramic views over the city when you take time off from all the other activities and make it back to your room.

HCMC DELuXE

contemporary rooms, an international buffet restaurant – The Square, a lobby lounge, a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including swimming pool, fitness, sauna and spa. With five meeting rooms and over 400m2 of space that can accommodate up to 350 persons, Novotel Saigon Centre provides expert support teams and facilities that will ensure successful business meetings and events.

RAMANA HOTEL

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Ryan Connor discovers the remote town of Ba Chuc and its eerie past

riving south from the border with Cambodia, it didn’t take long to reach Ba Chuc. As we approached, large rocks loomed ahead, jutting out from between trees. The town is ringshaped, built along a road that encircles a small mountain. By the time we arrived at this ring road, the sun was on the horizon, but we were still hopeful to see the pagoda before daylight faded. We didn’t even have to ask for directions. As soon as we stopped, the locals knew what we were looking for. They motioned with their heads and then pointed down the road to where hundreds of skulls lay within Ba Chuc Temple (also known as Bone Pagoda) — victims of the 1978 Ba Chuc Massacre. We soon found the pagoda, a memorial stupa resembling the famous one at the Choeung Ek killing fields in Cambodia. With over 1,700 skulls peering out from a hexagonal glass-windowed building, it

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is just as chilling — a shocking example of the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge between 1975 and 1978. We approached the site slowly and solemnly. After we removed our shoes, the guard asks us to sign the visitors’ book. We dropped some money in a donation box and he handed us incense and ceremonial papers to burn in a fire pit nearby. When this was done, we absorbed the horror of the Bone Pagoda. Looking at the skulls and bones separated by gender and age, the sheer number of deaths was hard to fathom. It’s easy to see that no one was spared or given mercy. 3,157 people were slaughtered on that fateful night, Apr. 18, 1978. Only two of the town’s residents are known to have survived.

Laughter Among Tears Returning to our parked motorbikes, we were approached by a large crowd. Some were trying to sell us various goods, but

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$$$ 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental–saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the most classic of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

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Memories

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$$$ R3–60 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 1000 www.sabena.vn Located on a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the brand–new rooms at Sabena are equipped with all the latest in–room technology perfect for making your room a combined office and home away from home. A good choice for anyone seeking accommodation away from downtown Saigon.

CONTINENTAL

many of them were just curious. Ba Chuc is the remotest place we have visited yet in Vietnam, and clearly not many foreigners stop by. We were struck by the pleasant nature of the people, which stood in direct contrast to the horror we had just seen. We spent a while mingling and laughing. One never would have guessed that they spent most of their time at such a gruesome place. That evening, as we walked around town, everyone we encountered was eager to talk to us. The next day we returned to the Bone Pagoda to see the small museum next door, which displays photographs and artifacts from the massacre. The images are graphic, perhaps even more disturbing than the skulls. Knowing that these events happened around where we were standing made it feel very vivid. Though the history behind the Bone Pagoda is not pleasant, it’s important to experience. The village of Ba Chuc became the highlight of a trip filled with many other better-known destinations. The Vietnamese government has admitted that the historical relic site of Ba Chuc (also known as Pol Pot Genocide Relic site of Ba Chuc), including the tombs, Tam Buu pagoda and Phi Lai Pagoda according to the resolution 92/VH, QD of the government on Jul. 10, 1980. To get there, take road 955A along the Cambodian border. Around halfway between Ha Tien and Chau Doc, go south on 955B for about 10 minutes until you reach the village. The pagoda and museum are on the east side of town.

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club. The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2km from the city centre and 3km from the airport.

SABENA HOTEL

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$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn This hotel makes you think of words like classic, traditional, vintage and colonial. Overlooking the Saigon River, and recently renovated to international standard, it retains a unique atmosphere which makes it especially memorable for newcomers to the city. The rest of us just take advantage of its cheap buffet lunches.

MA MAISON BOuTIQuE HOTEL

$$$ 648/65 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3 Tel: 3846 0263 hotel@mamaison.vn Just a short alley from the Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ma Maison Boutique Hotel caters to demanding clients of both long–term expats and French art aficionados. The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in–house guests on a French farmhouse wood table surrounded by modern leather and ladder–back chairs. Ma Maison provides full services– business centre, internet, housekeeping, laundry, room service and limousine. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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NORFOLK HOTEL

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$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3999 8888 www.starcitysaigon.vn A brand new hotel located near Tan

Son Nhat International Airport with 185 guest rooms each with city views and comfortably designed outdoor swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, restaurant, bars and meeting rooms that cater to 400 people.

HCMC MID-RANGE KIM DO ROYAL CITY HOTEL

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid– range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

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$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining and spacious gardens on the bank of the Saigon River. Located in Thao Dien Village, also has a number of restaurants on hand including an Italian, Thai and Japanese.

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Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

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$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 info@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Located minutes away from famous landmarks, shops, restaurants and international companies, Norfolk Hotel is a good choice for buisness and leisure travellers. Recently renovated the sleek new design is reflected in the lobby space and in their ground floor bar and steakhouse, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3822 4479 www.novotel.com Novotel Saigon Centre features 247 CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5914 www.kimdohotel.com You’ll never have trouble finding your way back here at night – perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the exterior is brightly lit and the interior follows suit. A quality venue where no amenities are lacking – we’re talking executive Jacuzzis here. Use internet bookings to slash the cost of your room.

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

destination

Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTuRES Soc Son Tel: 0164 3876 594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 06 1366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

JuNGLE BEACH

Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

MANGO BAY Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 07 7398 1693 www.mangobayphuquoc.com

Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com

PAN HOu ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT Ha Giang Tel: 0219 38 33 3565 www.panhou-village.com

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 05 8372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

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$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

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GuEST HOuSE CALIFORNIA $ 171A Co Bac, Q1, Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer. CREDIT

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SINH HuONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: 3827 4648 Take advantage of the free WiFi offered in every room at this venue where you’ll be impressed with the low prices, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few minutes from the street–level mayhem of the Backpackers’ area. CREDIT

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$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 0511 398 1234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com Located 15 minutes by car from Da Nang International Airport, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is situated on a stretch of beach with a view of the ocean and the Marble Mountains. Has 200 guestrooms featuring modern designs with oversized balconies and floor to ceiling windows. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private Ocean Villas, each with a private pool.

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DuNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1 Tel: 8373 699 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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FuRAMA RESORT & SPA $$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

HONG HOA $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 1915 It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked–away little venue is on a par with anything else in the area – attractive, comfortable, friendly and more. Plus there is free Internet access.

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An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

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airport in Danang, comprises six areas of villas with beachfront, golf and mountain views, a 33–floor twin tower, three five– star hotels, a convention and commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village.

DuC VuONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi–Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street–level mayhem of the backpacker area. CREDIT CARD

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$ 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3 Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn Though possessing only five rooms, Cam Ly’s hotel section comes very reasonably priced. A double room costs under VND400,000 per night while a large double room and a twin room are both priced at under VND700,000. With 24-hour security, all rooms come with cable television and ADSL Internet access. For cleanliness, comfort and safety, Cam Ly is one of the best no-frills options in the city. See our Business listings for an overview of Cam Ly’s studio apartments. CREDIT

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Nha Trang Tel: 05 8362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family–run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air–conditioned rooms and amiable staff.

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: 0511 3961 800 www.danangbeachresort.com.vn This resort, 20 minutes away from the CREDIT CREDITCREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life–resorts.com Recently refurbished, this award–winning leafy and well-appointed resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

THE NAM HAI

RuSTIC CHAY LAP

$ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh www.chaylap.org Situated on a peanut and maize farm on the doorstep of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge and farm offers homestay-style accommodation in the middle of a rural, ethnic minority Vietnamese environment. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking, caving and chilling out in the shadow of some of the most spectacular limestone karst scenery that this country has to offer. Booking needs to be made through tour operators - email chaylap@gmail.com for details or check out the website.

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000 www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, The Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA

SuN SPA RESORT

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LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG

$$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 511 3958 888 www.lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is family-friendly resort. The design of the guest rooms and amenities, quality of the food, ambience of the bar and restaurant and the dedication of service of the resort’s CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial–hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high–rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la–residence–hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark–stained wood furnishings, this is traditional art deco Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

PHuONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable

JuNGLE BEACH RESORT

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$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang) Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick–up from Nha Trang and the down–to–earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem. $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary of rest and relaxation is set on its own private beach. Based on ecofriendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs instead of tiles or differing roof coverings, enhancing the environmental appeal. The 50-seaview rooms are split between luxurious villas and condominiums that blend contemporary living with slight Indochina influences. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason–anamandara– nhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private

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$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue Tel: 054 382 6567 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa, this is the cheapest European–style place in town. Has bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers.

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NHA TRANG

HuE & QuANG BINH HuE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels.asia Pull up some (private) beach and relax at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

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$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, if you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional–looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is an endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

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and acceptable level of comfort for the sub–VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

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INTERCONTINENTAL DANANG SuN PENINSuLA RESORT $$$$ Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang Tel: 0511 393 8888 info@icdanang.com www.intercontinental.com/danang With its own private bay on the Son Tra Peninsula, the Bill Bensley-designed InterContinental Danang is nestled within one of the region’s most exquisite locations. All 197 of the resort’s rooms, suites and beachfront villas are designed to take full advantage of their location and panoramic South China Sea views. Large terraces and shuttered windows elevate private living spaces that draw in the surrounding jungle and crystal bay, and add depth to the already large rooms that start from 70sqm.

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staff has all been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion.

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NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 625 6900 rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com This attractive four-star hotel is centrally CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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destination

destination located with 154 guestrooms, each with terrace and sea view, offering a pool, spa and restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. One of the best run hotels in town.

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in their many dining areas. The resort also offers outdoor activities including kitesurfing and parasailing.

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TRAVEL NOTES WORDS BY TIM RuSSELL

Culture Club EXPAT TOuR GuIDES ARE BECOMING more numerous here in Vietnam, and some of the locals aren’t happy about it. One Vietnamese tour operator recently said, “The government cannot know what foreign tour guides are telling international tourists about Vietnam. It is totally possible that they cause misunderstandings about Vietnam’s culture, history and customs”. Thus betraying an all-too common misunderstanding of what tourism is really about. As my friend, author and long-term Saigon expat Patrick Moran wrote to me last week, “It is not the job of foreign tourists to learn Vietnamese culture. They are on holiday. It is the job of the Vietnamese tourist industry to learn the culture of the foreign tourists, to find out what they want.” Try telling that to the tourism authorities here, for whom cultural tourism is the only game in town, and for whom market research is an alien concept. Look at Vietnam’s tourism marketing for example – turgid, uninspiring, and advertising little more than a boot camp in Vietnamese culture – and compare it to the exciting, colourful and fun approaches of Thailand and Malaysia.

another destination next time, and it’s one crucial factor in Vietnam’s desperately poor (around 5 percent) return visitor rate. It also encourages a short-term mentality in suppliers who cater to the tourism industry, such as taxi drivers, shop owners and hoteliers – where’s the harm in scamming a customer when they’re not going to come back anyway? Thailand has built its highly successful tourism industry not just on cultural tourists, but also on holidaymakers – people who go on holiday primarily to relax, eat, drink, play sports, and generally have a good time. They will probably visit some cultural sites during their stay anyway but it’s not the primary aim of their trip. The important thing about this sector is that, when they find a destination they like, they will go back again and again, which helps explain Thailand’s return visitor rate of around 50 percent. Sadly the Vietnamese, who don’t understand how we strange foreigners could possibly enjoy lying on a beach reading a book and have no desire to find out, simply don’t recognise the existence of this market, and the changes that would be required in the country’s tourism industry to make it happen – better service CREDIT levels, better infrastructure in beach areas, less scamming – areCREDIT unlikely to occur for a generation at least. CREDIT Economist To paraphrase a recent article, Vietnam’s tourism industry CREDIT has a bright future ahead of it…and it always will.

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SHORT TERM MENTALITY Going all out to attract cultural tourists is a dangerously short-term approach. Cultural tourists tend to only visit a destination once, cross it off their to-do list, and try

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SAIGON MOTORBIKE 203 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals. Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

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BuSINESS FACILITIES

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WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT & SPA

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$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 058 3670 670 www.whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean and a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants including one where you can pick fresh seafood and then have it cooked, a swimming pool and a spa. Service is both professional and friendly.

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NOVOTEL PHAN THIET OCEAN DuNES & GOLF RESORT

$$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3822 393 www.novotel.com/2067 This resort offers access to a first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo. Great food and service is offered in this 123–room escape destination featuring private balconies with ocean or golf view. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. On-site seafood restaurant and bar.

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 384 7440/2 www.miamuine.com Set on one acre of manicured lawns and lush gardens, this luxurious haven of rest and tranquillity offers four different accommodation types, all featuring en suite bathrooms, cable TV, IDD telephone, safe box and air conditioning. Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows looking out to the South China Sea. The resort’s Xuan Day spa offers a selection of therapeutic body treatments while the beachfront Sandals restaurant serves a blend of dishes from the Mediterranean and Pacific Rim.

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn With various awards, including being listed in the World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009 by Expedia, and in view of the current facilities, location and its anticipated strong branding and service from the heart, Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa is ideal for the medium to higher end individual leisure and corporate travellers. All rooms have a view of the sea.

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

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MIA RESORT MuI NE

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$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7111 www.cocobeach.net The place that put Phan Thiet on the map is still one of the best options for a stay, with charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant. Coco Beach is continues to be run by the European management team that began it all in 1995.

$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu Tel: 058 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front hotel with 284 sea view rooms and suites, complimented by six restaurants and bars. The hotel also has a Sheraton Club Lounge with spectacular views, Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool area, a fitness centre, a kid’s club, a business centre and a cooking school. For great view of the city, head up on high to the rooftop bar.

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NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pick-up.

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six–Senses–Hideaway– Ninh–Van–Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top–drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at around VND15 million for a beach pool villa.

CHI’S CAFé 40/27 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/month. Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter.

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322. www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its new luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar.

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BUSINESS BUSINESS

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com One of the few all–villa luxury boutique resorts in Vietnam, Princess d’Annam

is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four–hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country. It’s definitely one of the most exclusive.

SHADES APARTMENTS

$$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 374 3237 www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and good dining options. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT & SPA

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are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

BO RESORT

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$$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 6142 www.boresort.com booking@boresort.com Conceived and operated by a French– Vietnamese couple, BO Resort lies on the west of Phu Quoc and is quiet, low–key and secluded. An eco–lodge concept, there are no televisions or air–con and future plans include hot water by solar panels. 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay. Bathrooms are tropical, open–air style. The beachside restaurant is well–known and includes traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on fresh seafood and products, prepared with an unmistakable classic ‘French touch.’

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CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow–style resort which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid– back and simple. And cheap.

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$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla–resort.com Open since November 2008, this Italianrun, 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first–class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant. One of the few top-end properties on Phu Quoc. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 381 3000 www.victoriahotels.asia Part of the Victoria chain which has properties in Vietnam and Cambodia, this high–end resort with thatched–roof bungalows and family villas is set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a top–end seafood restaurant, and a spa, beauty salon and Jacuzzi right on the private beach. An excellent place to stay located just before you reach the main stretch of resorts in Mui Ne.

VILLA ARIA MuI NE

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$$$ 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660 www.villaariamuine.com The newest boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Villa Aria Mui Ne provides warm service with only 22 spacious guestrooms and one suite. Using only natural amenities in every room for a luxury experience, the resort includes a nice pool overlooking the beachfront, an alfresco dining lounge serving authentic Phan Thiet cuisine and more.

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up tasty, home-cooked Vietnamese food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHu QuOC RESORT THANG LOI

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stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

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LA VERANDA

$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773982988 contact@laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery branded La Veranda has beautifully– designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$ Cat Cat Road Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

PHu QuOC BEACH CLuB RESORT

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$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 0998 www.beachclubvietnam.com A small and popular guesthouse located 15 minutes south of the airport offering simple yet well-appointed accommodation with rooms at VND630,000 and bungalows at VND840,000 per night. Features a beachside restaurant and includes free WIFI. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours

Viet Nam

Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

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PHAN THIET & MuI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3743 777. www.allezboo.com This resort offers exotic and luxurious accommodation including two Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas and 55 spacious suites and deluxe rooms. Fresh seafood, Vietnamese specialities, Thai food and international cuisine are served

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travel Promos destination

AN LAM VILLAS, NINH VAN BAY Enjoy a secluded spa getaway in one of 35 villas at this fivestar resort built into the hillside with a private beach. The Spa Package includes an ocean villa, four spa treatments per day and gourmet breakfast starting at VND8.4 million++ per villa / night. Book before Sep. 5. Call 0583 624777 or email rsvn.nvb@epikurean.com CARAVELLE Enjoy a weekend of Latin dancing with a stay at the

Caravelle. Includes daily buffet breakfast, and one cocktail and tapas. Available Fridays, Saturday and Sunday till Sep. 30. Priced at VND3 million++ for the first night and VND2.7 million++ for the second night. Available for Vietnamese residents and expats. www.caravellehotel.com PARK HYATT SAIGON Hyatt Gold Passport members can now enjoy extra benefits at Xuan Spa. Members can earn and redeem points on

destination TOPAS ECOLODGE

See more at wordhcmc.com

spa treatments and retail purchases. Earn five points for every VND20,800 spent at Xuan Spa. www.hyatt.com SHERATON Book now for a wedding reception to be held by Dec. 31 at The Sheraton and enjoy a complimentary honeymoon for three nights at the Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa including a return airline ticket. Email sales.saigon@sheraton. com for details

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas–eco–lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco–cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

VICTORIA SAPA

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from VND2.8 million per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

VuNG TAu, HO TRAM & CON DAO BINH AN VILLAGE

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$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau Tel: 064 335 1553 www.binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this glamorous, Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has a calming and elegant boutique atmosphere. Has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining and a bar strategically located on the cliff to watch the sunset.

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$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3830 939 www.condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island on the edge of the main town, this beachfront resort is a good option thanks to its reasonable pricing and coconutshaded sand. Has the standard range of mod cons.

GRAND HOTEL

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$$$ 2 Nguyen Du, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 6888 www.grand.oscvn.com This four-star iconic property stands proudly along the tree–lined seafront and has added modern amenities to its spacious rooms, along with a large restaurant, first–floor bar, fitness centre and business facilities.

refined atmosphere of this leafy villa complex provides guests with a home away from home. Perfect for renting with groups of friends or as an extended family, the spacious villas each come with their own pool and many have direct access to the beach. Facilities include tennis courts, water sports, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL

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$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 2135 www.rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge. Rooms start at VND900,000.

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel : 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao/ The first five-star resort on the Con Dao archipelago, this unique property pays homage to the remoteness of its natural environment by being deliberately sandwiched between the sea, beach, mangrove and mountains behind. 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay here, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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AZA ADVENTuRE TOuRS AND TRAVEL

S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7 Tel: 5410 5523 www.azaadventuretours.com AZA Adventure Tours and Travel specialises in adventure and education tourism, providing consulting and custom travel arrangements and packages to the Philippines and other countries in Asia. AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level.

BuDGET RENT–A–CAR

www.budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best–known car rental companies. With a kiosk at the airport and drivers trained in a range of driving, cultural and language skills, mileage–free car hire starts at VND1.2 million.

BuFFALO TOuRS AGENCY

81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9170 travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips, customises leisure and corporate travel plans around the world and in Vietnam while offering a selected range of small group tours.

COME & GO VIETNAM

7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia Pacific. Join now and save.

195/14, D1, Q Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 3281 hello@comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, responsive British–run tour operator offering high–quality, innovative tailor made tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. Come & Go pride themselves on originality so if you’re tired of the usual Vietnam products, they’re definitely worth a try. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

ASIANATRAVEL MATE CO. LTD

DALAT EASY RIDER

TRAVEL SERVICES ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLuS

113C Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 6678 92-94-96 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 0615 www.asianatravelmate.com An active supporter of the Loreto Program, AsianaTravel Mate Co. Ltd. is a tourist information company that offers a wide range of customised itineraries, tour packages, and hotel & cruise reservations throughout Indochina, as well as daily departure tours in Saigon, Hue, Hanoi, known as Deluxe Group Tours. The company also operates three deluxe cruises in Ha Long Bay.

70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat vndalateasyrider@yahoo.com www.dalat–easyrider.com.vn Bespoke motorbike tours from the original Easy Rider group based in Dalat. With over 70 guides, all speaking English, tourists can either ride on the back of a bike with their guide or can hire their own bikes. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands and you can even venture as far as Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Email for further information. Note: insurance is not included. Price is generally VND800,000 to VND1 million per day depending on how far you travel.

EXOTISSIMO

64 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3827 2911 dongdu@exotissimo.com SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2761 - Ext 113 pmh@exotissimo.com 41 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3 5194 111 - Ext 17 I anphu@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com Everything you could wish for under one roof from this professional agency. An upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, which aims to bring you up close to the cultures of the area through personalised tours across the region, which may include insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. Excellent service. Travel desks at Sofitel Plaza Saigon and New World Hotel open from 7.30am to 9pm every day.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 7744 info@flightravelco.com www.flightravelco.com Flight travel is an associated partner of Hogg Robinson Group (HRG) in Vietnam providing a range of travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLuB PHu QuOC

60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Tel: 0939 402 872 www.flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff that speak English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and Vietnamese. Established in 2009, Flipper Diving Club offers international scuba diving insurance for all customers and each instructor carries additional scuba diving insurance. Contact them now to learn more about diving in Phu Quoc.

FLY VIETNAM

www.flyvietnam.com booking@flyvietnam.com An online air ticket reservation and travel agent in Vietnam providing information, pricing, availability, and booking facilities for domestic and international air travel, railway reservation, hotel bookings, holiday packages, buses, and car rentals. Also organises travel insurance, coach tours and visas.

KIM TRAVEL

270 De Tham, Q1 One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations

include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering day tours, short breaks and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne Tel: 0908 400 108 www.mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes with national and international guidelines for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation. Group rates and corporate event packages are also available.

ONE WORLD

28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 A local inbound tour operator specialising in boutique tours around Vietnam. We provide economy, luxury, packages and Taylor–made tours, including flexibility to allow our customers to explore at their pace and will.

TERRAVERDE

91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3984 4754 info@terraverdetravel.com If cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Halong Bay is your kind of thing, then this company’s range of customised cultural and soft adventure tours might suit. It caters to travellers interested in making a positive impact on the lives of the people whose regions they visit.

Tu TRANG TRAVEL

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 071 3752 436 www.tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Tu Trang Travel offers services such as trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh, and between Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc. Email: sales@tutrangtravel. com.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTuRE

www.vietnamvespaadventure.com From the people behind Zoom Café, Vietnam Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English speaking tour leaders lead the way, contact shawn@vietnamvespaadventure. com for more details.

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT & SPA

$$$$ Tel: 064 378 1525 info@hotramresort.com www.hotramresort.com Located along the coastal road in Ba Ria– Vung Tau Province, this attractive, Hoi Anstyled property is the ideal getaway from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City. The resort is highlighted by a selection of 63 uniquely designed Indochine bungalows and villas that promise a local experience with international–standard accommodation. Also has an excellent spa facility and two swimming pools. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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HO TRAM SANCTuARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Tel: 064 3781 631 www.sanctuary.com.vn Just 45 minutes north of Vung Tau, the classical but contemporary elegance and CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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August 2012 Word | 91

out & about

OuT & ABOuT

LISTINGS

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings RESTAuRANTS SOuTHEAST ASIAN 106 RESTAuRANTS - VIETNAMESE 107

BAR & NIGHTCLuBS 092 CAFES 094 RESTAuRANTS - CHINESE 096 RESTAuRANTS - FRENCH 097 RESTAuRANTS - INDIAN 098 RESTAuRANTS - INTERNATIONAL 098 RESTAuRANTS - ITALIAN 098 RESTAuRANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 104

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TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am. Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 195 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6291 5424 info@allezboo.com 24 hours Summery, Ibiza-style beats rock through this recently refurbished Backpackers’ Area icon, mixing in with the bamboostyle décor, deep red walls and ethnic minority upholstery and place settings. Serving a mixture of Thai and western cuisine (from VND80,000 to VND140,000 a dish), the late-night party atmosphere is bolstered by the first-floor DJ pumping out tunes into the early hours.

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LOUNGE BAR First Floor, 59 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 3686 www.theamberoom.com 3pm to midnight A small but atmospheric, living-room style

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92 | Word August 2012

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MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com 9.30am to 1am Swathed in greys, cream and dull brown,

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CUBAN/SPANISH 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am If it's mojitos and well-mixed cocktails you want, spiced up with nightly live music and a Latin atmosphere, La Habana is the place. Run by a Chinese-German couple, this attractive, long-running Cuban bar and restaurant is one of the few watering holes in the Thai Van Lung / Le Thanh Ton area to serve up a regular dose of all things live. Also has HB beer on tap, an excellent food menu and weekly salsa classes.

DJDJ

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style,

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

HARD TECHNO 79 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3824 2525 8.30pm to 2.30am This Singaporean-run super club, located in the Dai Nam hotel, is just as popular with the locals as it is with the foreigners. A friendly, communal atmosphere and attentive service helps Gossip to stand out from its contemporaries. As expected, tinnitus-inducing levels of techno and house music blare throughout the twotiered club with a large, raised dancefloor that fills out instantly. ‘Dress to impress’ is the nature of the clientele here so don’t turn up in shorts and flip-flops. The entrance fee is VND120,000.

LA HABANA

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com 7pm to late One of the smaller nightclubs to grace Saigon, the neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese set. Blaring techno and dance music envelopes the dance floor as large fruit platters and bottles of whiskey and cognac are consumed. A lack of space means this place gets packed easily, especially on the weekends, so look to arrive relatively early to grab a table. Even better, book in advance.

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EXPAT BAR / DART 54 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 2664 3pm to 1am Despite its slightly run down veneer and smoky but lively atmosphere, Ice Blue remains a popular haunt for many of the city’s older expats as well as a not–so– regular crowd of tourists. Known for its amicable service and lively, beer-drinking ambience, this long-running waterhole is also famed for its darting prowess, with two well set-up dart boards claiming pride of place.

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28Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn 8am to midnight Set in the same building as the Czech Consulate and decorated in wood panelling and brass finishing, this enormous Czech-styled bierkeller popular with stout burghers from both the local and expatriate communities was the first microbrewery in town (1995) and remains one of the best. The excellent home–brewed Hoavener beer, which comes in dark, red or blonde, is served out of huge steins and is complemented by a food menu that mixes Vietnamese fare with Central European staples such as schnitzels, wurst and much more.

shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices. However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9575 24 hours A corner location, retro, slightly grungy décor, banging indie and popular rock tunes downstairs, never ending drunkenness and late-night partying make Go2 one of the watering hole destinations in the Backpackers’ Area. Popular with tourists and expats searching for latenight drinking and dancing options, the food menu includes Thai, Vietnamese and western cuisine with mains costing between VND75,000 and VND110,000. DJs bang out the beats upstairs until late.

HOA VIEN BRAuHAuS

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 212 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9946 www.crazybuffalosaigon.com 24 hours This hard-to-miss Backpackers’ Area restobar, terrace and nightclub declares itself loud and bold with its massive, snorting buffalo signage, a symbol that has undoubtedly appeared in thousands of photos of Saigon. A daytime happy hour, pizza, pasta, Asian cuisine and international mains make up the mix, with the beats pumping on the first floor until late.

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LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0948 343399 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet. It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

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AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 3483 www.bluegeckosaigon.com 4.30pm to midnight Although run by a Vietnamese couple, this boozy, outback-themed sports pub just off the main drag is quintessentially Australian. The down-to-earth atmosphere is added to by a great pool table, darts and all the live sports, with a particular focus (not surprisingly) on Aussie Rules and Rugby. Also shows the Premier League. One of the longest running watering holes in town.

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Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com 7am to 1am Composed of The Conservatory, a daylight-drenched loft area, The Salon, a plush living room with baroque and exotic accents, The Cigar Room and The Library, with its sleek champagne tasting counter, the Boudoir Lounge is a haven for executives and lounge adepts alike. Live International DJs perform Fridays and Saturdays. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and evening bouchées.

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MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music. Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

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TECHNO / HIP HOP Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 9pm to late Once the largest nightclub in Vietnam, this 2000-capacity venue is located in the An Dong Plaza complex in District 5. Pumping out 30,000 watts of sound, this club also possesses one of the loudest nightclub sound systems in the city. A popular nightspot for the local and Viet Kieu crowd, with resident and guest DJs playing thumping dance and techno tunes and a separate room for those who prefer hip hop and R&B. Expect to pay the usual nightclub prices for drinks, but look out for the regular specials on bottles of spirits.

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London meets New York lounge opposite the Sheraton Hotel. Has chilled out tunes during the late afternoon and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for the latest cocktails, a good coffee and a glass of wine. Also has an extensive champagne list with probably the largest offering of champagnes by the glass available in town. Holds regular events. AC

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 28/4 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 6656 6338 bostonpizzavn@gmail.com 24 hours This inviting, all-hours-god-sends multistorey restobar with its rectangular, bare-brick bar area is the only place in the Backpackers’ District showing all the live sport. And here we certainly mean the word ALL. TV screens are everywhere. Also in the mix is the coldest aircon in town, reasonable (although slightly pricey) pub food and friendly female staff.

COLuMNS FOODIE CORNER 100 CAFE CRITIQuE 106 FOOD PROMOS 108

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GO2

this bar and café has the feel of an underground-style watering hole, the type you may find in London or New York. Run by a well-known, locally based DJ, the decks and mixing board take centre stage here, with a range of turntablists taking to the stand at night. Also a good place to hang out during the day — the Mediterranean-influenced food menu includes crostini, salads, pastas and a good selection of breakfast fare. Does takeaway Lavazza coffee.

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FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the Frenchrun Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

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PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

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IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-diefor zesty beef roll-ups. Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

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46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere. Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through

to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

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1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Purple Jade is a great place to catch up with friends or business partners or simply just to relax and enjoy great drinks. If you find yourself being overly particular about your choice of tipple, pull yourself together and ask the bartender for a cold beer with a shot of good liquor on the side.

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WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION CUISINE 110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar, this slither of a place mixes dark brown and maroon décor with bar-style seating and comfortable dining areas out front and at the back. An extensive new and old world wine list is, of course, part of the offering, as is an awesome pan-Asian fusion menu boasting Asian tapas (from VND85,000), international fusion mains (from VND185,000) and gourmet, creatively topped pizzas. Has a highly rated massage parlour upstairs.

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17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home– style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

SLATE

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3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com 5pm to 1am Located opposite Centrepoint, Slate takes its name from the dark grey tiling covering the floor. Merging black and silver with turquoise, and with touches like semi-private sofa beds, the offerings here include over 30 martini cocktails, a barbecue menu and perhaps one of the most contemporary yet tasteful watering holes in town

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 111 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7670 spottedcow@alfrescosgroup.com 11am to 12pm daily Part of the Al Fresco’s Group, the original Spotted Cow bar was on Hai Ba Trung in Hanoi, a few doors down from the country’s first Al Fresco’s. Now revived and transformed into a full-on sports bar with Friesian black and white spots to match, this friendly watering hole has a good food menu to match – think pasta, pizza, burgers, baguettes and international comfort food mains. A range of happy hours and darts make up the mix.

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SPORT / SHOOTER BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3915 2853 4pm to late A shooter bar, with over 15 down–in– one cocktails on the menu boasting names like Aquackalypse Now and The

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a lustrous contemporary lounge bar with all the mod cons together with some of the best, imported pool tables available in town. Rental is by the hour, the seven pool tables costing around VND100,000 while the upstairs, full-size snooker table costs a touch more. A great place to go simply for a drink or to shoot pool with friends.

Duckinator, this striking, subtly lit space has a downstairs pool table, a long wooden bar and an upstairs lounge with a large, pull-down projector screen. The watering hole also shows live sport on the weekends courtesy of three flatscreen TVs. Try the shooter challenge and get a t-shirt and your name and time engraved on the wall. Also has a reasonable bar menu.

THE LIBRARY

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OUTDOOR VIETNAMESE 117 Hong Ha, Tan Binh 7am to 10pm Located on the L-shaped road behind the Parkson Centre opposite the airport, a disused war-era passenger plane sets the scene for one the city’s most unique outdoor, plastic deck chair seating cafes. So unique, in fact, that the wings act as shade from the sun, the wheels play home to a set of speakers, pot plants and fans hang from the metal casing of the aircraft while the tail has had a mini house built around it. Not surprisingly this museum of a place can get pretty crowded with families and kids awestruck by the novelty. It’s a decent cafe, too.

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EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends. A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town. AC

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102 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 2599 10am to 1am A departure from the Saigon norm, this comfortably decorated, two-floor pool and snooker lounge mixes the attractions of

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Au PARC

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EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm Classic but eye-catching cream and greentiled + + decor runs through this cafe and deli-style restaurant housed in a colonial building opposite Le Duan park. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix together with a Mediterranean and European cafe fare food menu that includes creative sandwiches and salads

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3 Tel: 3823 3398 www.anscafe.com 7am to 11pm Located down alleyway 38, this sumptuous cafe just off Turtle Lake Circle is chintz, kitsch, bling and contemporary baroque decor all combined into an eye-catching one. That this place is so pleasing on the eye is added to by the silvery finished sofa seating and the iPad menus. Simply swipe the menu, zoom in or zoom out to choose from a contemporary range of coffees, teas, drinks and cocktails as well as Vietnamese and pan-western cuisine.

DANCE / HIP-HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 Tel: 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com 8.30pm to midnight You will be hard pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and uber trendy as Velvet. It’s of no wonder then that most of its clientele are exceptionally well-dressed socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. As a result this venue has carved itself a reputation as being the place to be and to be seen. Has a ladies night every Wednesday.

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LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 www.cacophonycafe.com 7.30am to 11pm Set in a villa in a colonial era courtyard alongside two other cafes dedicated to live music, the four floors of Cacophony are all devoted to the beauty of sound, but in a different way. Take level 3, for example. An acoustic guitar and sound system sits in one corner while the room is decorated like a Hanoi urban street corner, sign, lamppost, tree, doorways and all, with the seating on cushions on the floor. Has live music in the basement space five nights a week (not Monday and Tuesday). Also has a small food menu. DJ DJ

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INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 4090 www.bobbybrewers.com 6.30am to 11pm Now with eight locations in town, this slightly synthetic, Starbucks-style airport lounge of a place continues to knock out large and tasty espresso-based coffees together with a full range of smoothies, frappuccinos, juices and much more. Also has a fast-food style western food menu and an upstairs movie lounge showing the latest Hollywood hits with Vietnamese subtitles. Check their website for the movie schedule. Movie lounges are at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 and 400B Le Van Sy, Q3.

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Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The Library recaptures the romance of a bygone era, offering a sophisticated all-day snack menu of exquisite delicacies devised by Executive Chef Rolando Manesco. From 2.30pm to 5pm, the Library’s nostalgic afternoon tea is served, comprising of an array of fresh-cut sandwiches, light bites and platters.

CITY GARDEN

as well as kebabs, bagels, mains and mezzos, all at prices that go easy on the wallet. Good wine list and an excellent delivery service.

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ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm The home of Caffe Vergnano, a recent makeover has added a bar area to this popular downtown cafe that serves up all things coffee - anything from ristrettos, macchiattos and lattes through to frappuccinis, mochas and spirit-infused coffees. Has a decent, mid-range Italian food menu to match that includes a large selection of panini, crostini, Italian rice dishes, salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat-based mains. Has a second cafe at 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1.

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CAFE / CASUAL DINING 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 4860 citygarden.sg@gmail.com 7am to 10pm daily City Garden is somewhat of a rarity in this city. Built in a sea of bamboo, this cozy open-air, non air-con cafe offers a casual and Mediterranean-influenced menu with a creative range of reasonably priced Panini starting from VND50,000, Italian latte from VND40,000 and cocktails from VND55,000. Good music and comfortable seating round up the mix.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

+ INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3508 7825 www.coffeebean.com.vn 7am to 11pm weekdays. 7.30am to 11.30pm weekends. Great, large servings of coffee have to be the biggest pull of Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, an international chain of pleasant Starbucks-like work, meet and play cafes that is gradually spreading around the city. Now with five stores around town including 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 and further afield, comfortable seating and a contemporary but generic atmosphere are bolstered by a menu of cakes, cookies, sandwiches, pastries and more.

GLORIA JEAN’S

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INTERNATIONAL 2BIS Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 www.gloriajeanscoffee.com/vn Wooden table seating mixed with more comfortable armchairs, subtle lighting and a serve-yourself buffet-style ordering counter are some of the key components of this coffee chain that succeeded in Australia where Starbucks failed. It’s not surprising really. The coffee is good as are its various renditions — cinamocha, chai tea chiller, Turkish Delight, mango chiller, Irish nut crème and more.

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MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0909 682927 9am to 10.30pm Tucked away just behind Nga Tu Phu Nhuan (The Phu Nhuan Intersection), this tiny gem of a rustic cafe combines nightly live music from 8.30pm with brown velvet upholstered sofa seating, treated dark wooden bench tables, cushions and

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out & about style wooden decor against a spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior, a simple but creative cafe menu including sandwiches, salads, mains and cakes combines with reasonably priced coffee and good WiFi. Out back is a fashion store stocking modern, street-style brands, and an art gallery.

striking wall decor. So small is this venue that there is an upstairs mezzanine level reached by old Mekong Delta-style ladder stairs and when the music starts, the place not only fills to the open rafters but gets local bus-style cramped, too. A great find.

KITA COFFEE

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

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CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com Plaudits galore as well as overseas TV coverage seem to have followed this spacious, first floor bistro-style cafe above the Art Arcade. Pitting 1930s French-

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MUSIC CAFE 351/4A le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3931 6312 8am to 11pm A jungle of a place with vines wrapping round stairwells, water features, pot plants and fairy lights at night, the aircon indoors transforms into a living room-style cafe obsessed by music — images of famous musicians and bands adorn the walls while the playlist is all American. Live piano enters the fray on Saturday and Sunday nights while the menu is typical Vietnamese cafe style together with fast food and a good selection of ice cream.

SOHO COFFEE LOuNGE

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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 92 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 3606 www.soho.vn What started out as a sleek but comfortable, black and white futuristic affair on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai has now spread to five cafes around town and a restaurant at 327 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. It’s a nice formula. Comfortable but not flamboyant sofa-style seating, suave lines, curves and surfaces, a non-smoking section, good WiFi and surprisingly cheap coffee, all making a place to work, eat, rest and play. Check out their website for a list of locations. LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC

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ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm Despite its Italian restaurant veneer in a Backpacker area location, this pleasant, mid-range venue is best known for its coffee — its lattes and cappuccinos are among the best available in town. Has both indoor and outdoor spaces as well

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RETRO / VIETNAMESE 224 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 2210 2929 www.thicafe.com 8am to late A gem in an area of rough diamonds, this slightly retro, bookish but lounge-style Vietnamese café and bar brings the best of local coffee shop creativity to Backpackerville, a collection of streets more associated with the brash and the not very beautiful. Decent iced coffee and juices mix with cocktails, beer and a panAsian food menu that also has a selection of Mexican fare. Has live acoustic music five nights a week and a downstairs bar area. DJ DJ

TRuNG NGuYEN

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3821 2718 7am to 10pm An outdoor, well-aired terrace on a corner location is the centerpiece of this fairly new but ever-popular contemporary coffee shop just behind New World Hotel. Wickerchair seating, lightbox lighting, browns, blacks and creams make up the effect, with a menu selling both Vietnamese and espresso-based coffees, smoothies, cocktails, beers and a mix of well-priced pan-international and Vietnamese fare. Live music on the weekends.

L’uSINE

PETITE NOTE

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335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 www.operationteavietnam.com 8am-8pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-5pm (Sat-Sun) A quiet and hidden little tearoom located on the ground floor of a yoga studio and not far from the city centre. A wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond marks the entrance to this quaint, open-air tearoom. Serving a line of high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and Vietnam, drinks start at VND35,000. Tea and teaware is also available for home use and as gifts.

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2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own. Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm. AC

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as an additional dining area upstairs. Although, the service is questionable.

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50 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 6911 www.trungnguyen.com.vn 6.30am to 10.30pm A downtown location of the everexpanding Trung Nguyen chain, this pleasant two-storey cafe opposite the Bitexco Tower mixes the creams, browns and comfort seating of this international homegrown brand with the Trung Nguyen menu — six types of mixed robusta and arabica Vietnamese-style coffees together with smoothies, juices and a small range of easy food options. The best place in town to taste locally produced coffee in all its tempting guises. Also has a store at 349 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 and numerous locations around town selling their coffee. LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC

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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3845 2155 7am to 11pm Even the logo is shaped like an upside down house at this funky, spacious cafe close to the Moevenpick and the airport. With whole sets of upside down tables and chairs, shelves, light fittings, mantlepieces and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up is one of the new brand of cafes spreading its wings across the city. Sells the typical range of cafe drinks and simple Vietnamese cuisine as well as cocktails, beer and more. A great place to chill.

RESTAuRANTS - CHINESE BuDGET Hu TIEu MI ANH KY

MI NOODLE SOUP / WANTON 80 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 5518 6.30am to 12pm daily Take freshly made mi noodles, put

them in a pork broth, add equally fresh wantons (hoanh thanh), maybe add in some dried hu tieu noodles and put banh quay (bread sticks) and a range of sauces on the side. Et voila, you have one of the best Chinese-style Vietnamese noodle soups in Saigon. The service may be a touch slow and you’ll have to get used to an on-the-street, back to basics atmosphere, but worth every penny (and bite).

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CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

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PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best–known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

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CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, round-table dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town. The classic dim sum menu is reliably appetizing – check out their Sunday morning dim sum brunch. Also has a selection of set menus, both private and semi-private dining rooms and a highly rated chef hailing from Hong Kong.

KABIN

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CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1

LIVE MUSIC

Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

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PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) www.shangpalace.com.vn Located just off the Central Business District, the dark intricate wooden tables and chairs of this well-respected Chinese restaurant contrast well with the white linen and deep red carpeting. Featuring over 200 dishes including over 50 kinds of dim sum for lunch, the cuisine here is prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300 and is a good venue for events, business functions and family get-togethers.

Yu CHu

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1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The restaurant marries contemporary style, stylish surroundings and culinary spectacle with authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. As diners look on, the skillful chefs prepare hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within the open, impeccably designed show kitchen.

RESTAuRANTS – FRENCH MID-RANGE LE BOuCHON DE SAIGON

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CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 9263 11am to 10pm Mon-Thu. 11am to 11pm Fri-Sat. Closed from 2.30pm to 5.30pm daily and Sundays A quirky and sociable family-run, family-friendly French bistro serving up 100 + percent organic, home cooked-style French cuisine for lunch and dinner. Le Bouchon de Saigon offers traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, croque madame and moules marinieres, as well as an array of European fusion dishes, and competivitely priced world wines.

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LE JARDIN

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31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3825 8465 11am to 1.30pm, 6pm to 8.20pm. Closed Sundays Unpretentious, tasty but simple French fare in a relaxed garden setting around the back of the French Cultural Centre, Idecaf. Although don’t expect much intimacy here – Le Jardin gets so crowded and the tables are so close together that private conversations are best had elsewhere. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is classically Gallic and it’s well-priced, too. Excellent, cheap house wine served by the carafe. Booking advised.

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FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 0903 852956 (Paulo) kcafesaigon@yahoo.com A French-style bistro and restaurant all in one, this Backpacker Area mainstay

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out & about

DELIVERY BEN’S STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare BuRGER OI Tel: 3826 5426 www.burgeroi.com Burgers, fries, onion rings and side orders CHEZ GuIDO Tel: 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches DA VINCI’S Tel: 3943 4982 www.davincisvietnam.com Pizzas, pastas, subs and salads DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants KFC Tel: 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides LOTTERIA Tel: 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides PIZZA HuT (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers SCOOZI Tel: 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants ZIPANG Tel: 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm.com for menu

98 | Word August 2012

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attracts a regular clientele made up of Gallic expats, tourists and more. An excellent food menu – think all things French – backs up the long bar area perfect for sipping on a Ricard or a beer or two. Daily specials board and French sports live on TV.

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PAN-FRENCH 9 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3829 8143 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm A cramped but comfortable, twostorey eatery popular with the French community. Classic fare from goats cheese salad through to seared magret duck, escargot, charcuterie plates and much more. Has a reasonable but mainly French wine list and a cosy, amiable atmosphere aided by the almost constant presence of the owner. Booking recommended.

TY COZ

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CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town. A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

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FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay. Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

LA CuISINE

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FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Recently relocated from its spot on Ngo Van Nam, this decidedly intimate, whitewashed, open-kitchened restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list — 75 at present count — and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its small size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

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FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com 11.30am to 2pm, and 6pm to 10pm A traditional French restaurant offering Mediterranean cuisine that’s well known for its quarterly Michelin star promotions and award winning pastry team. Seating 80 people, the restaurant exudes a southern Gallic atmosphere with its warmtoned tiled veranda, pastel coloured walls and ficus trees.

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INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 0903 863114 11am to 10pm Daily Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine as well as roti paratha, muttapa (murtabak) and both vegetarian and meat-based mains. Like its menu, the fan-cooled dining area is simplicity personified and the prices here are cheap, too, with all the dishes costing well under VND100,000.

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NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s self-made tandoor oven. Excellent.

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 6661 www.babaskitchen.in 11am to 10.30pm Run by the enigmatic Robin of former Mumtaz fame, this recently opened, pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent. From dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and the fiery vindaloo, the cuisine and hospitable service at this friendly eatery are already drawing in the customers. Good delivery service.

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MuMTAZ

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NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung. AC AC

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S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999 10am to 11pm A Saigon South favourite, Peaches is located in the square area between Sky Garden 2 and Sky Garden 3. A spacious, attractive restobar with comfortable, lounge-style seating and a bar area, this watering hole mixes three beers on tap and a large screen for the live sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Including anything from Sri Lankan chicken curry through to beef rending, fish head curry and mutton vindaloo, the majority of the dishes cost under VND100,000. A perfect accompaniment to the beer.

TANDOOR

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

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INDIAN / MALAYSIAN 2G Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3521 0326 indusindiansaigon@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Just two doors away from nightspot icon Apocalypse Now, Indus Indian may not be the brightest in decor and ambience, but this is made up for by the tasty, hybrid Malay Indian fare. Run by Chef Logu, the former cook to the Consulate General of India to Vietnam, expect a Halal menu including the likes of roti canai, murtabak and Malay-styled curries as well as more traditional Indian cuisine.

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CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 3744 4585 6.30pm to 10pm. Closed Monday Deliberately off the radar, Trois Gourmands is the successor of the once legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh. Despite its new District 2 location in a colonial-style bungalow, the enigmatic Gils remains at the helm of this self-styled table d'hôte, and as of old he continues to serve up some of the best, classic Gallic fare in town. As ever, the standard seven-course meal remains surprisingly cheap — presently at VND900,000 a head. The bread and even the cheese here are home made — quite a feat.

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NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the threestorey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams. Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bo b Dylan on the sound system. Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

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Fad Founder All this may sound like a bad business model, but the craze these buns inspired in the late 1990s and early noughties was an extraordinary success story for the original Malaysian franchise founder Hiro Tan. Then a failed businessman, Tan was taught how to make the buns by his elder sister, who’d adapted it from a common Mexican recipe. Without a lot to invest, he started a small bakery in Penang prominently featuring the Mexican treat, naming it Rotiboy — ‘roti’ meaning ‘bread’ in Malay, and pronounced close to ‘naughty’ — inspiring a logo based on a sketch of his muchloved naughty nephew. Made with an enriched dough shaped around a yolk of butter and cheese, the buns are topped with swirls of coffee cream that soak into the bread while baking and melt into a warm,

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crispy shell responsible for their irresistible aroma. They proved so addictive that customers were snapping up entire trays as soon as they came out of the oven, resulting in nightmarish queues at franchise outlets across Malaysia and later throughout the continent. Copycat businesses arose quickly — Pappa Rotti amongst them — and many a fortune was made. The market for Mexican roti buns crashed in 2006, for no other reason than the fad had passed. The business remains viable though, and Vietnam’s Pappa Rotti still does a good turnover — because despite trends and fashions, the buns are still good. — Michael Arnold

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DOMINO'S PIZZA

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87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 11pm (Mon-Fri), 6pm to 11pm (Sat) Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

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RUSSIAN 6 Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3829 4644 11am to late A larger than life-size Russian doll stands

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Cafe fare made with American flair

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EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 9838 www.pizza4ps.com 11.30am to 11pm, Tue-Sun Italian tradition meets Japanese ingenuity at Pizza 4P’s. This quirky fusion pizza parlor serves whacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza, calamari seaweed pizza and teriyaki chicken pizza, as well as more traditional types such as quattro formaggi, marinara and the old faithful, margherita pizza. Those with an adventurous streak can also order their pizza half and half. Pan-European and Asian soups, salads and a la carte mains make up the rest of the menu.

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DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 10am to late Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its mural of Copenhagen taking up the length of one wall attracts a mix of Scandinavian and international punters, all enjoying the offerings from the well-stocked bar and

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4532 www.snap.com.vn 7.30am to 10.30pm (weekdays). 7.30am to 11.30pm (weekends) A huge banyan tree sits in the entrance of Snap Cafe, a rustic-themed airy cafe and retail space with thatched roofing, jungle-like foliage and a kiddy’s play area. Breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, mains including Asian cuisine and weekly specials make up the cuisine mix, complemented by a range of benches and sofa seating that gives this venue a unique feel. Retail outlets include Oasis Deli, a furniture store and YB Designs jewellery.

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American chef/owner Scott Marquis offers a creative international menu that he likes to call “comfort food with a twist”. Serving all homemade soups, salads, sharing plates, burgers, sandwiches, pastas, main courses and desserts, the restaurant also boasts a full bar, ice cold beer and an international wine list to complement your meal. Also has a daily happy hour from 4pm to 7pm on ‘buy one get one free’ bottled beers and local spirits mixed drinks to complement the usual selection.

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FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

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PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50+++Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn 9am to 11pm daily Known for their American-styled burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex, the two-storey Mogambo claims pride of place as one of the city’s longest running restobars. A well-known expat meeting spot, Savannah-esque, bamboo décor and booth seating make up the mix together with a pleasant bar space. Dishes run from fajitas and burritos through to chicken cordon bleu, pies, the coronary bypass burger, salad, soup, gumbos and spare ribs.

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AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

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AMERICAN PIZZA DELIVERY 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7; The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn 10am to 10pm Despite its delivery-only reputation, Domino's in Vietnam is also doing a roaring trade with eat in diners thanks to its upstairs restaurant space. It's all very casual, of course, with the pizzas served out of the box, but with a range of combos starting at VND70,000 for a small pizza and coke, and now with thin crust available, the Domino's taste and experience has successfully been imported to Vietnam. Check their website for full menu and specials.

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PAN-NORTH AFRICAN 58/9 Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: 3862 8859 6pm to midnight. Closed Monday The first Moroccan restaurant in Saigon’s history has an intimate, cozy setting. Couscous mains start at around VND100,000, while couscous with lamb, chicken and beef is just under VND200,000. Other Moroccan specialties such as slow–cooked lamb with almond and plums and roasted quail with sweet mrozia sauce are also on the menu. Chef Riahi’s home–made pastries such as baklava and “gazelle horns” filled with almond paste are a rarity in the city.

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EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

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outside the entrance of this three-storey beautiful mismatch-of-styles, Russianrun venue. Filled with Eastern European imagery, red theatre-style curtains and Soviet propaganda art, the weekly changing Russian menu includes the likes of borsh, Russian salad, dumplings and cutlets, and can be adapted to your needs for party bookings. Located close to Basilico.

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INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 8424 www.alfrescosgroup.com 8.30am to 11pm The downtown outlet of one of the country’s most successful restaurant chains, the multi-storey Al Fresco’s is international comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Famous for its jumbo ribs, also making the menu is Tex-Mex, burgers, pizzas, salads and an assortment of international mains. Does an excellent delivery service. For a full list of restaurants check the website.

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INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 8452 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Closed Mondays. A miniscule, two-floor restobar with a homely, slightly rustic feel that is the only place in town pushing the excellent, Hue-brewed Huda beer, always served cold. A free book exchange, an everyoneknows-your-name kind of atmosphere and mains from tuna steak and bangers and mash through to burgers, schnitzels, burritos and sarnies make up the formula here. Does a popular roast from 5.30pm every Sunday.

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INTERNATIONAL 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3822 1720 7.30am to 11pm A restobar that caters for any crowd and occasion. A fine dining room is located upstairs while the more casual bar area downstairs regularly shows live sport and hosts live music. The menu offers up a bevy of tasty western comfort food, a selection of Vietnamese fare and some of the best burgers in town.

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result, Pappa Rotti is neither a place you go to stock up on bakery items, nor is it a place to sit and have a meal. If it weren’t for that smell, it’d be an easy place to walk past and ignore.

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Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Market 39 specialises in a boutique selection of appetisers, locally sourced and imported seafood, succulent steaks sizzling from the grill and hand-crafted noodles. Breads and pastries are prepared all day to ensure that every dish arrives on the table, fresh and full of flavour. .MID-RANGE

The Naughty Buns

100 | Word August 2012

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PhOTOS BY EJ ChUNG

IT’S A BIT LATE FOR THE pan-Asia roti bun fad now, but it’s surprising just how many foreigners in town have never tried what is possibly the most delicious bread roll that exists. A counter-intuitive clash of supposedly incompatible flavours (coffee and cheese, of all things) the resulting crispy brioche was moving 20,000 units per bakery at the height of its popularity, and still has the power to tempt casual passers-by based on smell alone — the aroma tempting enough to spur impulse buying even by people who are not in the least bit hungry. Perhaps the reluctance to partake in these particularly delicious creations on the part of Ho Chi Minh City’s newcomers has something to do with the nature of the roti bun business model. Pappa Rotti outlets (there are now twenty of them spread throughout the city, mostly outside supermarkets) don’t sell anything apart from the buns themselves — and as their extraordinary tastiness disappears within half an hour of leaving the oven, they’re designed to be eaten immediately. As a

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 175 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 0308 The hole-in-the-wall frontage to this darling of the Backpacker’s Area dining scene is misleading. Lam’s serves up some genuinely tasty cuisine at rock bottom prices, especially when you hit the Vietnamese menu. The fare here is typical of local home cooking and the portions are big, too. Also does Tex-Mex, Thai, Singaporean and much more. The bar Chao Saigon (222/2 Bui Vien) opposite is owned and run by the same family

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Burgers Panini Baguettes American Breakfasts Tex-Mex Asian Specialties Rooftop 23rd Floor, Centec Tower

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INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0948 901465 www.bizuhotel.com/main/pages/sb-food.php 4pm to 11pm. Closed Monday

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169a De Tham

@ Tran Hung Dao Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 7am-2am daily

72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Just next to Diamond Plaza Tel: (08) 3827 9631 | Fax: (08) 3827 9632

out & about

AN PHu BLu BAR & GRILL 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 An easy, breezy light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river serves up comfort food and Asian standards. Also with a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. BOATHOuSE APSC Compound, 40 Lily Road, Q2 info@boathouse.com.vn The menu is built around surf and turf. Lunch comprises of a healthy selection of soups, salads and sandwiches while dinner concentrates on top–end beef, seafood and pastas. CAFé EVITA 230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Pizzas, salads, burgers, pastas, ice cream and a whole lot more besides is on hand to keep the entire family full and happy at this bright, airy and well kitted–out eatery. GAuDI 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4722 A Spanish tapas restaurant decorated in the style of Spanish architect Gaudi. Italian dishes such as pizza, risotto and pasta are also on offer.

the reasonably priced Danish-influenced pub grub menu. Dishes include Danishstyle fried pork and meatballs, frankfurt sausages, a range of grilled fare, burgers and much more. Has three screens for the live sport and seating areas out back and upstairs.

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MEKONG MERCHANT 23 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 Superb dining space in leafy, shaded courtyard. Fresh Phu Quoc seafood is the speciality. Other staples are homemade pizzas, salads and daily specials. SNAP CAFE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Chilled, rustic, open–air style cafe set in a large courtyard with comfortable wooden seating, banana–leaf roofing and an outdoor playground area for kids. TAMAGO 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4634 Serving a range of authentic Japanese dishes and sushi, Tamago offers a weekly Sunday buffet lunch and BBQ/ yakiniku on Thursday evenings. Indoor and outdoor seating, with a great terrace. Private rooms also available. Call for home delivery.

102 | Word August 2012

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NEW YORK/ INTERNATIONAL 76 Bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 3556 7am to midnight Located in the stock market area in between the canal and Ham Nghi, this funky, Wall Street-styled restobar takes the concept of its name and mixes it with an ever-changing set of deals on drinks and cuisine. With cash-obsessed, comic strip style American artwork lining the walls and a great, curved long bar, the French-influenced American food menu includes pizza, hotdogs, salads, tartines and bracket kebabs. Great concept and a good place for more than just a beer.

WARDA

GOOD EATS NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Connected to NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, the menu is based on the theme of maintaining a long and healthy life.

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171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 4497 Ground Floor, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4849 121 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 4118 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere. Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

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MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

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AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 3897 vscooterguy@yahoo.com 7am to 2am daily Known for its excellent scooter-themed burgers, this Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a Vietnamese-style sidewalk drinking haunt by night. A corner location, friendly staff and American deli-style fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Also serves Tex-Mex and Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a Vespa tour service from within the café.

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INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs

bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

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dining in a casual setting, Figaro offers an assortment of aperrandivi dishes, weekly blackboard specials, gourmet pizzas, pastas and salads, and an extensive selection of wines by the bottle from Italy, France, Chile, Australia and New Zealand. Premium beers, spirits and cocktails make up the rest.

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 7.30am to 11pm daily The river plays a big role in this spacious restrobar in An Phu on the banks of Saigon's river. The menu offers seasonal dishes that include share plates, mains, classics and desserts along with a hearty breakfast menu and kids menu. Boat House caters for small to large functions, with three areas to choose from within an ideal private setting. Also provides occasional live music, mini festivals and various themed events.

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INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 6592 www.boomerang.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Take the Esplanades in Singapore, transport one of the Lion City’s seafrontstyle restaurants to Vietnam and you have Boomerang, a two-story, Australianthemed but Singapore-owned eatery and bar with great terraced seating specializing in international fare all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. The menu runs the gamut from pizzas (around VND220,000) through to grills, salads and burgers (around VND185,000). AC AC AC

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 7am to 11pm An easy, breezy, light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river. Serves up international comfort food such as burgers and pizzas as well as tasty Asian standards. Also has a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. Part of the Riverside Apartments complex. Check for daily boat schedule between the complex and downtown Saigon.

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GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4206 www.brotzeit.co/kumholink 11am to 12am daily The city’s first contemporary German bier bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers wellknown German black, blonde and gold beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine — think sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed, contemporary yet chic setting. Almost a Bavarian variation of the British gastropub chain All Bar One, the interior comprises wooden benches, wooden tables and a long wooden bar counter, as well as a semi open-air balcony overlooking Le Duan.

CHARNER CAFé

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EUROPEAN/ASIAN 98 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 6065 7am to 11pm Situated above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, Charner Café offers pan-European and Asian cuisine despite its overtly mid-to-late 20th century Parisian-inspired interior. Excellent soups, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes are all available at reasonable prices ranging from VND120,000 to VND350,000, as are Chinese and Thai-style Asian courses. Also serves breakfast, brunch and good coffee.

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ITALIAN-STYLE TAPAS / RESTOBAR 17 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 9095 10am to 11pm Specialising in Italian-style tapas and fine

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39 Le Duan, Q1 www.kumholink.com.vn/en As Saigon’s one and only dedicated “Drinking and Dining destination”, Kumho Link has made a name for itself by being able to suit everyone’s food and drink desires: with quality Western, Hong Kong Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Singaporean, Thai and Vietnamese fare, along with great cocktails, imported German Beer and live music.

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com 8am to 10pm daily. MM Bistro 6.30am to 9pm daily. The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place to go in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard with a kids’ play area, a bar space, wicker-style seating and notice boards galore, the cuisine is a mixture of gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, salads, pasta and pizza interlaced with Gulf of Thailand

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SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas. Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene. The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am Cuban–themed bar and restaurant selling a tasty range of Cuban and Spanish cuisine. The signature seafood–based paella goes for VND330,000 for two people and a big selection of tapas starts at VND40,000 each. Also has a small German menu featuring favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Does excellent cocktails, and,three–course lunches, including a drink, for under VND200,000.

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TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

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195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 8301 www.myplace.com.vn 11am to late, Tue-Sun Renovated from an old French colonialera villa, My Place is a sleek, high-end gastro-pub with private salons, an idyllic garden space and several bar areas. Serves both local and international fare including stews, clams, pasta dishes and finger food. Also does a BBQ every Saturday night, brunches on Sundays and offers various daily food and drinks promotions.

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.vn 8am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the well known Australian chain mixes hearty pub grub such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere thanks to the big screen TVs regularly showing various sporting events. Decked out in dark + + + wooden furnishings with a long bar space and grassy/patio outdoor terrace, drinks include a mainly new world wine list and various local and imported beers and spirits. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

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seafood imported directly from Phu Quoc. Also does a great breakfast. A recent addition is the aircon, bakery-style MM Bistro out front.

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BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3820 7157 www.aulacdobrazil.com 5pm to 10.30pm Au Lac Do mixes a Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. Heading up the menu is the churrasco, the Brazilian barbecue, with 12 cuts of smoked, barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, all hand carved quite theatrically at your table. Not surprisingly the place can get a little busy, so best to book. Has a second restaurant at 36/19–21 Ground floor, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7. WIFI

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JAPANESE / PERUVIAN FUSION 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 11am to 3am Located in a three-storey building in +++the centre of downtown Saigon – and named after French colonial-era mayor Rue Paul Blanchy — this popular high-end restobar pulls in both diners and latenight revellers thanks to its inventive Japanese-Peruvian fusion menu (designed by former Nobu chef Martin Brito), late opening hours and regular DJ sets. Check out their sashimi and tartares. Mouthwateringly good.

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26th & 27th Floor Rooftop, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 2372 www.chillsaigon.com 5pm to 10pm (restaurant). 5pm to 2am (bar & lounge) Offering breath-taking views of the city, Chill consists of an upscale restaurant,

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AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7373 www.steakhouse.com.vn 11am to midnight Evoking a retro, black and white Hollywood movie star environment, NYSW is known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, table-carved double strip loins and chateaubriands. Side dishes include black truffle cream spinach, potato dauphinois and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive wine list adds to the overall dining experience, which is enhanced by the all red and grey diner-style décor. Has an upstairs cigar room.

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ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 1879 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late A pleasant downtown eatery mixing the Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. The smaller downstairs and kitchen area is complemented by a no-smoking dining space upstairs replete with a bar and an outdoor terrace. Add to this bar-brick wall decor, light-wood tables and Argentinian themed photography on the walls and you have a well-rounded, popular restaurant only a stone’s throw from the Opera House.

INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

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STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 6am to 11pm + +The sleek, contemporary brown and cream decor at this street level steakhouse in the Norfolk Hotel plays host to a gem of a place close to Ben Thanh Market. Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range US or Australian steaks as well as the great grill and comfort food menu makes this a good option for a quality bite. Steaks start at VND390,000 for a decent sized cut. Does a nightly, competitively priced wine buffet.

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 11am to midnight The downstairs café-cum-lounge bar of this iconic downtown modern Vietnamese restaurant mixes subtle lighting with contemporary artwork ands design touches, a swathe of browns, cream, maroon, sofa-style seating and deep red upholstery. Serving a range of international fare together with Vietnamese dishes throughout the day, nighttime turns this venue into an upmarket, downtown bar. Known for its cocktails and extensive wine list.

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Q7 Tel: 5414 1717 11am to 11pm. Closed Mondays A restaurant rather than a bar and events space, the District 7 incarnation of the iconic downtown bar Vasco’s offers up outdoor, terrace-style seating together with an attractive upstairs bar and lounge area. Also has a great selection of wines courtesy of Bacchus Corner, who have a mini store on the premises. The cuisine runs the gamut from the likes of beef carpaccio and goat’s cheese salad all the way through to the beef tenderloin, seabass in Serrano ham and excellent pizzas.

posh sky bar and a sophisticated lounge. The music schedule offers everything from chill-out, R&B and sexy house to hip-hop. A “Sunset Happy Hour Special” runs Mondays through Thursdays from 5.30pm to 8:30pm. Make sure to dress well as Chill operates a no-shorts/no-sandals dress code policy.

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine. Often puts on specials and brings in overseas chefs. Presently regarded as one of the best buffet restaurants in town.

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 6am to 10pm The ground floor, flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, the minimalist yet slightly kitsch décor here is designed to bring out the colours and ambiance of the restaurant’s lavish buffets. Served three

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out & about

DISTRICT 7 CAFé TERRACE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2178 CREMONA 55 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Italian–style cake shop and café that serves excellent coffees and tasty sweets. GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2289 International–style coffee house with the usual range of cappucinos, frappucinos and mochaccions to drink or take away. JuJAEGEuM Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Enormous bakery, patisserie and chocolatier. LA PIZZA ITALIANA SF 19-1 Canh Vien 1 Duong Pho Tieu Nam, Q7 Tel: 08 5417 0511/2 - for deliveries Selling authentic Italian thin-crust pizzas & a selection of pasta dishes. LOVE NOODLE HOuSE D002 Nguyen Binh, Q7 Singaporean noodle house. NATHALIE’S THAI RESTAuRANT S9–HV3 Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 A strong neighbourhood vibe at this pleasantly decorated Thai eatery–cum–café. OHAN S1 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Quality Japanese fare in a stylish atmosphere. Prices are higher but so is quality. ONE MORE SA9–1 My Khanh III, Ha Huy Tap, Q7 An everybody–knows–your–name type atmosphere at this local bar. PARIS DELI Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 PIZZA INN 4 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 1196 SARPINO’S PIZZA GrandView Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2480 SuRASANG 1417 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Korean deli displaying bowl after bowl of various types of kim chi and other traditional fare. THE TAVERN R2–24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 3900 Cold beer, friendly service, a convivial atmosphere and a pavement terrace make this a perfect place for a pit stop any time of the day. TIB Broadway Building, 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 6868 WIFI

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YEEBO Broadway Building, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Flashy hotpot joint great for large parties. WIFI

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INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 6pm to 11pm Pan-Mediterranean and European dishes make up the bulk of the offerings at the refined but surprisingly fresh Reflections. The Caravelle Hotel’s signature restaurant, old images of the city grace the walls while a pianist plays nightly in the separate bar area. And yet the fare is surprisingly contemporary. Cosy yet elegant, a well–sourced wine list and a pre-bookable private dining room make this a good choice for that special meal or to entertain people who need to be entertained.

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ITALIAN +CONTEMPORARY 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1, Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm

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A contemporary Italian-themed cafe and restaurant mixing the best of the peninsular’s coffee — anything from ristrettos and macchiattos to frappuccinis — with a decent cafe-based food menu that also includes a more extensive selection of mains. As well as a substantial range of meat and vegetarian panini and crostini, there are also Italian rice dishes, creative salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat or seafood-based mains.

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NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3822 3329 www.saigonrestaurantgroup.com 9am to 11pm A fun and affordable New York-style

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TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7. Tel: 5412 4848 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm Located in the modern confines of The Crescent, this contemporary-styled Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an open kitchen and a relaxing outdoor terrace area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian cuisine, the menu includes a nice selection of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas and desserts, all at affordable prices. At night the cozy atmosphere creates the ideal ambience for a dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine.

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PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 6253 2828 www.pendolasco.vn 11am to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

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ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm daily Besides serving up one of the best lattes in town, the tasteful, two-storey Caffe Stella has become one of the main expat haunts in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly staff, decent WiFi, reasonable Italian cuisine and indoor aircon space. Although there are a number of Vietnamese dishes on offer, the cuisine here is all Italian – think antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata and Italian-style mains – all sold at decent prices.

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm. Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

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ITALIAN, TEX-MEX, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3837 0760 8am to 11pm daily This family-run restaurant has been on of the Backpackers’ Area mainstays for well over a decade, selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas all mixed in with pan-western cuisine, tasty Vietnamese fare and a few Tex-Mex dishes. Amiable owners, a pleasant atmosphere, reasonable pricing and an efficient delivery service make up the mix.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270–degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfortspared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style

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INTERNATIONAL/ASIAN Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 6291 8750 www.cirrussaigon.com 10am to 10pm Strata is an all-day restaurant and events venue offering a panoramic view of Saigon. Food offered includes an express business lunch from 11:30am to 2pm, high tea from 2:30pm to 5pm and a buffet dinner 6:30pm to 10pm, as well as an all-day a la carte menu. A separate private function space provides a suitable venue for business meetings, corporate events, seminars/conferences, and private dining.

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 6am to 11pm Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus an ongoing roster of themed lunches in a fresh, elegant setting.

Italian restaurant offering a range of interesting and tasty antipasti, pastas, pizzas and more. Friendly and attentive staff, rustic bare brick walls and warm Tuscan yellow colouring make for a relaxed and attractive setting to dine while Sinatra, Deano and Sammy croon in the background.

grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

INTERNATIONAL FUSION 5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 8am to 11pm This lounge-restaurant (below Lavish) is centrally located and has elegant, peaceful and cozy surroundings. The décor includes reproduction furniture, sculptures, flowers and oil paintings, and the menu has a great range of well-presented Asian and European dishes. The service is friendly, relaxed and attentive. A great place to meet friends to relax, eat and drink.

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WRAP & ROLL SA1–1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 5412 0461 AC

QuO VADIS

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TOKYO DELI SC6–1 Parkview Building, Q7 Tel: 5410 1166 AC

times a day, with a number of alternative cooking stations, the cuisine runs the gamut from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood to creative salads, cold cuts and cheese plates to a range of desserts. Also does an excellent range of promotions. Check their website for details.

DJDJDJ

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Cnr. Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.icasianasaigon.com 6.30am to 10.30pm A sleek, modern-styled trattoria attached to the back of the Intercontinental, the professionally designed, international Italian fare encompasses anything from carne and pesce dishes through to pizza, pasta, baguettes, focaccia and panini. Has a breezy, tree-shaded outdoor street terrace area and is often packed at mealtimes. For being part of a five-star, prices here are very reasonable.

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CLASSIC ITALIAN 86 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn 10am to midnight Pompeii ceiling tiling, Roman arches and a classic Italian feel pervade this restaurant close to Ben Thanh Market. The fare mixes international Italian cuisine such carbonara, Bolognese and Arrabiata dishes with regional specialities such as the linguine sfiziose and excellent wood-fire oven pizzas. Has a good selection of mains as well as an intimate wine cellar-style dining space upstairs.

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TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful, rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

{cafe CRiTiQUE}

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PhOTOS BY EJ ChUNG

WANDER CAFé SANDWICHED IN BETWEEN nondescript establishments along narrow Pham Viet Chanh in Binh Thanh District is Wander Café. Its wood-tiled entranceway sticks out from the white and grey of the busy street, making you stop and mull over whether you should go in or not. Well, you should. The interior is modestly decorated except for the Honda NS400R motorcycle installed behind the cashier. Framed quotes about life hang on the salmon pink walls spotlighted by hanging lights giving the café a warm glow as you relax among the cushy seats. Wildflowers in unique glass bottles adorn each table completing the homey atmosphere. Since Wander Café is a popular hang out among the creative industry, don’t be surprised if you hear ad hoc customers-cum-musicians strumming and singing songs as they sip their coffee. Quiet mornings at the

DRINKS: 3/5

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RESTAuRANTS – JAPANESE & KOREAN

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PAN-ASIAN / JAPANESE 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 7397 7am to midnight daily While standard Japanese day-to-day fare is the focus of this long-running, bamboo-clad eatery close to Chi’s Café,

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JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3521 0008 www.ramen.vn 11am to 1am Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the defining feature of this decidedly Japanese eatery is the black and white sketch of old Saigon stretching the whole length of the righthand wall. Bar-table as well as standard seating adds to the atmosphere while the menu focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also has a number of stir-fried options and a rice dish-based lunch menu.

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JAPANESE HOTPOT 117 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3930 9185 www.musmus.net 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm An excellent slither of a place specialising in Japanese-style hotpots, shabu-shabu and, in particular, the awesome steamed hotpot. Choose 12 ingredients (including meats and seafood) from the menu and steam over a broth on your table. Eat the remaining soup with rice or noodles. A great, tasty and remarkably healthy dish. And it’s cheap, too. WIFI

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SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 0326 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita. Originally from Osaka this old hand travelled the world prior to serving a stint at the former Omni Hotel (now Moevenpick). His present venture features diminutive downstairs bar seating and upstairs space together with some of the best sushi and sashimi in town. The key is not just in the cutting and preparation, but in the ingredients and presentation. Here it is faultless.

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SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 Tel: 3930 0039 www.sushidiningaoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown

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SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic uRAETEI BBQ RESTAuRANT five-storey Lion City eatery. Think the likes ++ + JAPANESE BBQ of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti 2A Ngo Van Nam, Q1 prata, awesome chicken curry as well Tel: 6673 9373 as the specialities of the house — frog 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Cool and dark, this forest grotto of a Does an efficient delivery service and has restaurant deals in natural finishes and more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, a sense of isolated calm, all added to by Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 private booths and food prepared at the Cong Hoa, Tan Binh. table. Dishes include salty fish/squid, fresh raw beef, smoked chicken, fried MONSOON RESTAuRANT & BAR pork cutlet, seafood pizza, sukiyaki and SAIGON shabu shabu hot pot. The speciality here, PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN though, is yakiniku, traditional Japanese grilled meat. Delicious. 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1 Tel: 6290 8899 RESTAuRANTS – SOuTHEAST ASIAN 10am to 11pm Located minutes away from the backpacker area in a beautifully restored BuDGET French colonial-era villa, Monsoon + + CORIANDER Restaurant & Bar Saigon specialises THAI / VIETNAMESE in pan-Southeast Asian cuisine from 185 Bui Vien, Q1 Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Tel: 3837 1311 Myanmar. Reasonably priced, with a great 11.30am to 10.30pm daily selection of health-conscious smoothies Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese and juices, expect traditional favourites chef, the time spent in a real Thai served in a boldly contemporary and kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the visually arresting setting. few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad + + NATHALIE'S thai here is better than you often get in PAN-THAI its country of origin, and the curries, som S9 Hung Vuong 3, Phu My Hung, Q7 tam and tom yum goong are also good, Tel: 5410 0822 with dishes generally going for between www.nathaliesrestaurant.com VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main. 7am to 10pm MID-RANGE Both a cafe and a restaurant, its corner location on the opposite side of the + + + BAAN THAI highway from KFC has gained Nathalies's PAN-THAI a reputation among Vietnamese, Asian 55 Thao Dien, Q2 expats and more. Claiming to serve up Tel: 3744 5453 'Thai Fine Cuisine', all cooked without www.baanthai-anphu.com MSG, and with a particular focus on 11am to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday. Open seafood, mains on the pan-Thai menu go until midnight on Friday and Saturday for between VND100,000 and VND200,000. Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like Also has an outdoor Thai noodle stand. seating fill the restaurant and lounge bar area of this eatery on the main drag in MID-TO-TOP An Phu. The menu focuses on a range of KOH THAI RESTAuRANT & rice, noodle, fried and curry dishes with a + mix of other fare including a whole page COCKTAIL LOuNGE dedicated to tom yum soup as well as a CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION selection of salads, including the likes of Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 the firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Tel: 3823 4423 www.kohthai.vn + + + GOLDEN ELEPHANT 11am to 12am daily CLASSIC THAI A modern Thai fusion restaurant that 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 merges traditional Thai flavours with Tel: 3822 8554 contemporary European presentation and saigonssk@vnn.vn cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range 11am to 10pm of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom Whitewashed décor with a distinctly yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper Thai theme – images of the Royal family, sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus elephant embroidery and more – provide on set menus while the evening fare the atmosphere at this excellent, longconcentrates on a la carte. An extensive running restaurant. The fare runs from wine list and creative cocktails merge laab salads (from VND75,000) through to Thai flavours and ingredients with local curries (from VND75,000), traditional Thai seasonal fruits and herbs. mains, som tam (VND70,000), fish cakes and dishes such as the deep-fried catfish VICKI’S TEPPANYAKI & BBQ with mango salad (VND75,000). Has three + ++ + 42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 VIP rooms upstairs. Tel: 3823 3232 www.vickis.com.vn + + JASMINE THAI 11am to 11pm PAN-THAI Offering teppanyaki-style live cooking Tel: 3519 0038 over seven floors, this completely Tues to Sun 5pm to 9.30pm non-smoking restaurant is fun for all A cosy, Thai-style garden dining area the family. Headed up by Thailand’s with a children’s playroom, this eatery No. 1 teppanyaki chef, the all-Thai off the main drag in An Phu provides cheffing team possess an arsenal of soft, candle-lit lighting, Thai music and entertaining cooking skills, with each a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine runs chef preparing the food in front of guests the gamut from Bangkok Thai through to on a traditional teppanyaki-style grill. Laotian and Isaan cuisine, with anything from massaman and green curries through Offering fresh local and imported meats and seafood at market prices, customers to lap ped and mains such as phad prew can also choose from an extensive set wan gai. Also does an efficient District 2 menu ranging from around VND500,000 to delivery service that includes The Manor VND1.2 million per person and Saigon Pearl. AC

Ground floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon, 235 Nguyen Van Cu Street, Q1 Tel: 3830 8123 Lunch: 11:00 - 14:30 Dinner: 18:00 - 22:30 Fuji restaurant offers luxury Japanese cuisine in Saigon such as Teppanyaki, sushi and Japanese dishes. All ingredients are prepared two Japanese Chefs from Tokyo and Osaka. The big selection of wine, sake and premium Japanese Wagyu beef. Tasty set lunch menus start VND 252.000++.

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YAKITORI / CHICKEN RESTAURANT 37 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 9000 www.yakitori-ooo.com 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Possibly one of the most eye-catching Japanese restaurants in town, this snug two-storey space mixes light wooden and bare industrial brick decor with a downstairs wooden topped bar area and upstairs cubby holes for semi-private dining. Serving all things chicken from hotpots and yakitori fare through to deep fried chicken on a huge bed of dried chillis, the trilingual menu also includes Korean soju, saki, a big selection of wine and imported Japanese beer.

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JAPANESE / FUSION 45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 2351 11am to 1.30am Aiming to add some "Nippon (Japanese) culture” to Saigon’s dining scene, Kabuto Tokyo offers typical Japanese cuisine such as sushi and sashimi, fusion dishes like Kabuto Mushi and steamed Vietnamese seafood, and various skewers (roasted pork, Yakitori chicken) with salted rice and soy flavoured rice malts. The restaurant itself mixes Manga cartoons on the walls with golden ceilings and traditional Japanese armour, swords and huge carp steamer lantern displays.

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JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko–vn.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 1am Tucked away in an alley off Le Thanh Ton, the funky Yamaneko offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Including dishes such as buta no syoga yaki tesuko (grilled pork marinated in ginger sauce) and rafute soba tesoku (Okinawa soba noodle with soft stewed pork). Standard Japanese fare is also on hand if you don’t want to dive into something a little different. Does a great set lunch deal

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KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr 7am to 10pm Now on its third location, the simply designed Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular. Two floors with a mixture of standard and sit-on-the-floor seating cater for a cosmopolitan clientele. The cuisine takes on the full Korean food spreadsheet with everything from banchan starters, kim chi and bulgoggi through to barbecues, claypot mixed rice and awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

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Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. All sushi dishes are prepared by a professional sushi chef from Japan. Tasty set lunches start from a very reasonably priced VND90,000.

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JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 11am to 3am Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm Sunday If you like your noodles in every possible form and prefer them to be Japanese, then this sleek, open-kitchened contemporary eatery may just be a little slice of heaven. Served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes, the ramen are supplemented by a range of smaller, appetizing sides. The Phu My Hung branch is on Nguyen Duc Canh next to S’Cottage.

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 2527 9.30am to 2pm, 4.30pm to midnight The wooden and charcoal panelling together with the open downstairs kitchen and upstairs swathed-in-red dining area give this contemporary Japanese eatery a casual but comfortable ambience. Specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoal-grilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, while the various other meat and vegetable options are also an excellent choice. Does a great lunch set starting at under VND100,000, rising to just under VND300,000 for the barbecue set.

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 6am to 11pm Unpretentious, casual but elegant bistro– style restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu which starts with pasta and wood–fired pizza, and then moves on to an expertly crafted selection of gourmet fare. A terrace offers the chance to observe the city goings–on. The wine list is a compact selection from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and great open kitchens. Has a laid-back separate bar area, too.

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PIZZA & GRILL 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn The pastel-coloured, Roman arch brickwork of this airy, three-storey restaurant provides the setting for a more unusual variation on the Italian theme — the grill. Cooked over lava stones (think Mount Etna) or in the wood-fired pizza oven, dishes include steaks, lamb chops, Andouillette sausage, skewers and a range of seafood, all marinated with a selection of Mediterranean spices. Also does a range of pasta, pizza and traditional starters.

OPERA

café are favourable for those wishing to work out of their office and in need of a different ambiance. There are a number of drinks you can choose from and all are reasonably priced within the VND20,000 to VND50,000 range. Your standard ca phe da and ca phe sua da, but if you want a different take with your caffeine jolt, ca phe rhum and ca phe Baileys may just do the trick. If you need something to cool you off, fresh fruit drinks, smoothies or sweet soup are good options here. Hot meals are served in the usual cutlery found in Vietnamese homes, giving the meal a stamp of home-cooked authenticity. Wander Café’s tagline is “Not all those who wander are lost” and indeed it is a good café to wander into — an excellent reprieve from the hurly-burly of the Saigon streets. Why not wander and wonder at the same time over coffee? Wander Café, 48 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh

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the menu here also includes Vietnamese, Indian, western and vegetarian options. With prices remaining at rock bottom – VND45,000 to VND65,000 for a mains — Asian Kitchen is a favourite with budget tourists and is highly rated on Trip Advisor.

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PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House. The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni. This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

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BOBBY CHINN’S Flirt at Bobby Chinn’s in Kumho Link every Saturday with complimentary finger food, two-for-one Russian Standard Vodka-based drinks and two-for-one bottles of Russian Standard Vodka. Show your business card for a first free drink. Enjoy a healthy lunch salad buffet with soup of the day and six salad dishes. Priced at VND195,000++ with free flow water and tea. www.bobbychinn.com BROTZEIT GERMAN BIER BAR AND RESTAuRANT With a new set menu every two weeks, diners can enjoy a variety of German cuisine either for a business lunch or a leisurely gettogether with friends. Appetisers and mains are priced from VND138,000 and is available from Monday to Saturday. www.brotzeit.co

CARAVELLE From Aug. 7 to Aug. 18 enjoy the oyster buffet at Restaurant Nineteen, presented by chef Timo Reuss. Enjoy Vietnamese native oysters fresh or in a variety of cooked dishes including breaded with tomato sauce or baked with spinach. Priced at VND1,013,000++ per pax. Errazuriz representative, Nicolas De Solar, presents the Errazuriz Don Maximiano wine dinner at Reflections on Aug. 16. Priced at VND1,480,000 net per ticket Enjoy some spice from Aug. 16 to Aug. 22 with chilli con carne week at Saigon Saigon Bar. From VND198,000 ++/ dish From Aug. 18 to Aug. 24 feast on fine French cheeses at Reflections. Choose from 15 options including Tomme de Savoie and Brie de Meaux, three different blue cheeses and one goats cheese. Priced at VND380,000 per plate. www.caravellehotel.com GOuRMET’S DELIGHT ROAST KITCHEN The Weekend Special. Pamper yourself or your family to authentic Hong Kong roast duck, chicken, pork and many special recipe

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dishes prepared by their Hong Kong chefs at their weekly ala carte buffet at VND350,000++ for adults and VND280,000++ for children under 12. www.gourmetsdelight.com.vn

HARD ROCK CAFé Enjoy all-you-can-eat ribs for VND465,000++. Choose from BBQ or Oriental sauce with a side of fries or rice. Sing your heart out with the open mic night every Monday from 8.30pm. Sign up to sing with the live band and receive a gift voucher. Standing ovations get a bucket of Coors Light. Enjoy ladies night from 9pm every Thursday. Selected cocktails are free for ladies and there is a two-for-one offer on Tiger draught from 9pm to 11pm. www.hardrockcafe.vn INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON Market 39: From mid August to mid September take advantage of the South Korean Buffet promotion with award winning chefs from Grand InterContinental. Sample South Korean delicacies for both lunch and dinner. Basilico: Cool down this summer with a selection of Italian salads and a wine special until the end of August. Drinks available in one-litre carafes or per glass. Enjoy a Basilico Spritz for VND105,000++ a glass or a carafe for VND600,000++, or a Ruby Red wine cocktail or White Strawberry cocktail for VND85,000++ a glass or VND480,000++ a carafe. Purple Jade: Enjoy the private party package in August with one-hour complimentary canapés selected by chef Roberto and a one-hour free flow red and white wine, Tiger draught, mojitos and soft drinks. Priced at VND288,000++ per person for the first hour and VND188,000++ for each additional hour. www.ichotelsgroup.com KOH THAI Koh Thai on the first floor of Kumho Link is running a set vegetarian

cheap, too, with mains going for well under VND100,000, and portions are also on the large side. Well worth a visit

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See more at wordhcmc.com lunch menu from VND100,000 per person. Happy hour is from 5pm to 7pm with two-for-one on beers, wine by the glass and classic cocktails. Enjoy the summer with Koh Thai’s summer sale. 30 percent off weekend lunch bills, 20 percent off dinner food and drink bills daily and 15 percent off takeaway orders. www.kohthai.vn LION CITY This Singaporean mainstay has a daily selection of discounts including 50 percent off appetisers on Mondays, 30 percent off Original Singapore Frog Porridge on Tuesdays, 50 percent off chicken on Wednesdays, 50 percent off noodles on Thursdays and 50 percent off curry on Fridays. Sample Canadian oysters with 20 percent off. Enjoy a 30 percent discount on Saturday and Sunday with Singapore crab. Live cooking on Teppanyaki with flavours such as chilli, black pepper and cheese. Call for a reservation and receive and a 50 percent discount. www.lioncity.com.vn MONSOON RESTAuRANT AND BAR Enjoy happy hour on Mondays at Monsoon (1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1) from 5.30 to 7.30pm with half price cocktails, available till December. From Aug. 6 to Aug. 12 celebrate Myanmar week with a selection of Myanmar dishes prepared by the head chef from Monsoon in Yangon. Enjoy a complimentary glass of Mandalay Rum Sour and the Myanmar Appetiser Platter, which includes five popular appetisers from Myanmar. NEW WORLD SAIGON To celebrate the Moon festival, Dynasty is offering two moon cake boxes with moon cakes filled with six delicate flavours, all priced at VND750,000 per box. The Bright Moon set has eight moon cakes and the lucky gift set has four larger sized cakes. Available from Aug. 1 to Sep. 30. Discounts for orders over ten boxes.

Master chef Ho Wing Sang and his team are serving three Chinese set menus with roast suckling pig, bird’s nest soup and soft-shell crab, together with moon cake for dessert. Available from Aug. 1 to Sep. 30 and priced from VND650,000. www.newworldhotels.com SHERATON Celebrate the start of the midAutumn season with handmade moon cakes. Guests can choose from seven flavours presented in a box of four and priced at VND980,000 net per box. Guests can also personalise their moon cake boxes by adding their company name and logo. Moon cakes and gift certificates will be available for sale from Aug. 27 to Sep. 30. Book by Aug. 15 to get a 15 percent discount. Enjoy a Full Moon theme night on Aug. 30 at Level 23 Nightspot with live music from house band, Motion, together with signature cocktails and snacks. From Aug. 17 to Aug. 31, celebrate Vu Lan festival at Li Bai Chinese restaurant and Saigon Café with a wide range of vegetarian dishes. For Singapore’s National Day on Aug. 9 the property will cook up local favourites such as Singaporean chilli crab and laksa lemak. A free flow of coffee/tea, house wine and Tiger draft beer is included in the buffet menu, which is priced at VND890,000++. Email sheratonsaigon@sheraton. com for details SuBWAY From Aug. 7 to Aug. 31 enjoy the student weekend promotion. Buy one sandwich and get a free Miranda Orange New and Poca potato chips. Try a different sandwich every day for VND50,000 with fillings such as ham, seafood, pizza and chicken. Make it a meal with a drink and potato chips for an extra VND30,000. Subway, 171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1; Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1; 121 Ho Tung Mau, Q1

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VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3839 5893 6am to 9pm If you desire service with a smile, avoid Phap Hoa. This vegetarian eatery is a truly functional place, with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with faux meat such tomato stuffed with pork and meat-filled cabbage rolls sitting alongside mushroom, tomato and tofu fare. It tastes good, too. Just don’t expect the staff to bat you more than an eyelid.

BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes. Beefsteak Nam Son

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188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3930 3917 6am to 10pm Set down an alleyway in an outdoor courtyard with an additional indoor dining space, this well-known eatery specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak. Served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, you can add pate or an egg, all for well under VND100,000. Has a second restaurant at 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. English menu available.

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3829 7943 6am to midnight Everything at this famous but strikingly traditional pho joint is largesse. From the size of the portions through to the plates of banh quay and fresh herbs as well as the myriad of other accoutrements, it’s all double-sized. Fortunately looks don’t deceive and this distinctly southern version of Vietnam’s national dish tastes good, too. Choose from a range of cuts of beef and spice to taste. Gets busy so expect to share tables.

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STEAK / BANH CUON 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 5106 11.30am to 22.30pm Stuffed down an alleyway close to the intersection of Huynh Van Banh and Le Van Sy, the bo ne offering at this fancooled, plastic stool eatery is one of the best in town. Served up sizzling with pate, fried egg, onions, chips and of course local beef, price-wise Le Hong remains very much a budget option. Is also known for its excellent banh cuon.

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PHO / STEAK 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 2791 6am to 2.30am Although essentially one the city's better pho restaurants, putting Vietnam's most iconic dish in a pleasant aircon setting, the two-storey, late-night Pho 99 is also known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of local beef bought in Cu Chi. Served up with mushrooms, onions and fries, the dish goes for well under VND100,000 a go, and is one of the best beefy bargains in town. It tastes good, too.

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COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1, TEL: 3925 0935 www.comtamthuankieu.com.vn The multi-storey, downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery close to Cho Ray Hospital. Swathed in yellow and green and packed all day long, the fare here is everything com tam (bitty rice) - think suon nuong (barbecued pork), xiu mai (meatballs), thit heo quay (roasted pork), canh kho qua (bitter gourd broth) and muc don thit (squid stuffed with pork). Prices are cheap, too with the standard meal going for around VND30,000. Has an English menu.

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HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3825 0261 www.namgiao.com 7.30am to 10pm Set down an alleyway opposite Ben Thanh market and surrounded by a bizarre plethora of hole-in-the-wall beauty salons, this pleasantly attired, long-running Huestyle eatery is known for its excellent bun bo-style soups and central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen and much more. All the mains go for under VND50,000. Has a second eatery on Suong Nguyet Anh.

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PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 10am to 10pm The work of the eponymous owner and head chef Chi Nghia, Papaya is one of the city's unsung gems. Tucked down a tangle of streets near the canal on the edge of District 1, the cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are

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HANOI STREET FOOD 177 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 9185 This local, chrome table-topped eatery may not look like much, but except for the addition of Saigonese-style fresh herbs it does some pretty tasty and authentic Hanoi street fare. Dishes include the moreish bun cha (rice noodles with barbecue pork), nem ran cua bien (deepfried crab spring rolls), bun mang ga (rice noodle chicken and bamboo shoots soup) and banh cuon thanh tri (wet rice paper rolls), all at budget prices. Also sells decent com binh dan (rice plate dishes) at lunchtime. No English menu.

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VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3834 4473 7am to 2pm. 4pm to 10pm A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat. Furnished with dark rustic wooden tables and chairs, Japanese-style wooden carvings and tropical foliage on the terrace area outdoors, the specialities here are the hotpots and the daily specials. But the vegan menu runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes. Also has a range of sautéed fair.

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VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 2538 7am to 2pm, 4pm to 9pm One of the city’s oldest eateries (it was established in 1925), this plain but charming holistic little venue located close to Ben Thanh Market also does some of the tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Cooked

up without onions, garlic and MSG, the fare ranges from curry noodles and fried rice through to a tantalizing selection of non-faux méat tofu and mushroom dishes. It’s cheap, too, and the menu is also in English.

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VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3848 3399 www.vietchay.vn 7am to 9.30pm Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received plaudits aplenty thanks to its contemporary Buddhist, feng shui-inspired setting, almost reverent ambience and interesting menu. With a regular buffet (check for details), eight specialities are also on show from salted tofu in claypot through to hundred flowers hotpot and Viet Chay spring rolls. Also sells a range of appetizers, vegetables, salads and creative mains.

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VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3823 3340 www.barbecuegarden.com 11am to 11pm A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. Specialising in all things barbecue, the menu goes from western and Vietnamese appetizers and salads through to combos, a la carte meats and seafood, vegetarian options, desserts and a kids menu. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair so expect smoke and lots of fun, too. A great place for groups and parties.

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MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh and his French-Vietnamese wife, the cuisine here is good, too, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients together with a selection of more contemporary options.

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101 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3602 2069 www.highway4.com 10am to 11.30pm The first Saigon version of the well-known Hanoi restaurant chain, Highway 4 is named after the six-thronged mountain highway that skirts the ChineseVietnamese border to the north. Serves up authentic Vietnamese cuisine and drink that reflects the ambience of the north and wider Vietnam, all set in a pleasant environment — the upstairs area has Asian-style, long-table, on the floor seating. Also does the excellent Son Tinhbranded rice wine liquors, with flavours ranging from plum to wild mountain apple.

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00 www.pendolasco.vn

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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. Also runs separate cooking classes.

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PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt. Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

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STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn 7am to 10pm A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a converted colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented and loved Vietnamese eateries. Specialising in pan-Vietnamese street food cooked up in a hygienic environment using quality ingredients, dishes cost between VND40,000 and VND100,000 each. Not surprisingly the place gets packed out with noisy diners, so best to book.

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PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3829 9244 11.30am to 10.30pm Once a hotel for French Pondicherry Indian dignitaries visiting both old Saigon and the Hindu temple opposite, this converted floor of one of the city’s best-preserved buildings is home to the elegant, refined and atmospheric Temple Club. Serving quality cuisine from the three main regions of the country, impeccable presentation and the occasional modern twist makes this a great place to entertain. For the colonial setting, the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

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HUE / VIETNAMESE 187ter Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3829 7242 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Formerly owned by composer Trinh Cong Son, the local equivalent of Bob Dylan, this iconic, local institution mixes dark brown Hue-style, Indochine décor with sullen lighting, white tablecloths and a

110 | Word August 2012

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TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1 Tel: 3602 2241 / 01286 252351 7am to 10pm Popular with foreigners and Vietnamese, Quan Bui offers an extensive menu and reasonable prices. No MSG or sugar added and food is served in traditional pots/ crockery. This restaurant is worth visiting for its high quality food, chic black tables and inviting ambience. Western food also available but make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge.

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PAN-VIETNAMESE 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC Tel: 3933 3636 www.khaisilkcorp.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch This purpose-built, four-storey building is coated in greys, browns and creams mixed in with the Imperial architecture of Hue, Chinese imagery and Terracotta Army-style columns. All helps to create the perfect, eloquent atmosphere for fine dining in a Vietnamese context. The cuisine mixes well-known dishes from the various regions of Vietnam, all served up with a contemporary and welcome twist. Good wine list.

Xu RESTAuRANT LOuNGE

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COLuMNS FOR THE RECORD 111 ROAD RuLES 112 IN THE FRAME 113 DECKS, DRuMS & ROCK & ROLL 114 BAND & DJ 115

ARTS CLASSES

drawing, figurative drawing and painting, and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

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43 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3502 1559 www.artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. Not only are the products current, but they also cover areas from art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping. Magazine titles in stock include the likes of FutureArc, GA Houses and Landscape World. The back room doubles up as an art gallery.

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780 www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults. Has a permanent exhibition at Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

FAHASA

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 www.fahasasg.com.vn 8am to 10pm Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English, French, Chinese and Vietnamese. International best sellers, children’s books and toys and educational and professional textbooks are all available. Think the Vietnamese version of Waterstone’s or Borders and you’re somewhat close to understanding what this quality bookstore chain is all about.

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROuP

Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A new creative group invites new members every second Tuesday in the evening for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire. All levels are welcome from beginners to more experienced. Contact John by phone or e-mail.

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2A Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 9650 www.pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City as well as other outlets throughout the country, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam. Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction on non-fiction as well as over 2,000 English language titles from publishers such as HarperCollins, Random House and Penguin — the fiction available ranges from classic and modern literature through to detective novels, horror, thriller and children’s books. If you’re looking for bestseller-list titles from overseas, this is the place to start your search.

AIRCONDITIONING WIFI

94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 7859 Set in a mixed colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallicrun bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications with a selection of second– hand Folio editions. Also stocks art books, coffee table books and French comics.

PHuONG NAM CORP (PNC)

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www.BDPworkshops.com Tel: 090 2208 813 Photographer Peter Stuckings (Lonely Planet Images, Insight Guides) runs a monthly intensive class on how to get the best out of your digital camera, as well as what to do on your computer when you bring the photos home. Workshops are run over a weekend, and involve classroom time in District 1 as well as shooting at locations around town. Cost is $195/person, with discounts for early and multiple bookings.

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from titles on Eastern Europe to East Timor and city guides through to maps. Also stocks non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, bills/coin collections and travel fiction.

GALLERIES

ARTS CLASSES 110 BOOKS & MAGAZINES 110 GALLERIES 111 LIVE MuSIC VENuES 112 PERFORMING ARTS 114 PRODuCTION COMPANIES 115

4 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0983 377710 www.shyevin.com Vin’s Space is a cosy, intimate, light-filled space that offers artists of all kinds a quiet space to work individually and share ideas and perspectives. Runs various weekly classes, including oil painting,

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visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

VIN SPACE

MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 6pm to 11pm An elegant, contemporary restaurant whose unique décor has influenced the design of so many other eateries in town, five years of operation has seen Xu evolve into a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare here ranges from the likes of banh cuon thit heo through to pork wanton, bun cha, seared beef crostini, bo luc lac and Xu-style chicken rice, all served up with a modern twist. AC

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38 Dang Dung, Q1 Tel: 3846 9853 6am to 10pm Located in the grounds of a beautifully restored Indochina-French colonial villa, Café IF is completely non-smoking and offers a concise array of MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew for breakfast, while all lunch and dinner mains come with a choice of different meats and fish, cooked in various styles such as stir fry, hot pot and curry. Has a comprehensive selection of wines, cocktails and fresh fruit juice, too.

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STEAKHOUSE 71/3 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 8023 www.lostartsaigon.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm If décor could have a voice of its own, here it would be loud, clear, sophisticated and very funky, such is the contemporary but very retro feel to this more recent addition to Alley Number 71. With a menu focusing on steaks, four cuts of either imported or locally produced beef are on offer, all served up with a range of sauces. For additional vegetables and sides, order separately.

PAN ASIAN HOTPOT Ground Level, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 6111 A Japanese-style rotating conveyor belt restaurant that substitutes sushi and sashimi for hotpot, diners order their preferred broth – choosing from Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Thai style – each with their own individual pot. Customers can choose from an assortment of fresh ingredients, such as thinly sliced meat, fresh seafood and leafy vegetables, to be cooked on a high-tech electric panel, tailor-making their own dipping sauce by mixing and matching a selection of condiments.

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more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. The fare is all Imperial Hue — goi thanh tra, banh uot thit nuong, bun hen and much more. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

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SAHABOOK

175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6290 6599 www.sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, the travel titles here range

BLuE SPACE CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3821 3695 www.bluespacearts.com 9am to 5pm With its ochre walls and internal courtyard complete with a quaint bridge, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center is an attraction unto itself. Inside the 120sqm space, local expert Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia, from sculptures and luridly coloured abstract paintings to contemporary representations of timeless Vietnamese themes: village scenes, willowy girls in ao dais and water buffaloes in fields.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878 317 (Ms. Mai) www.cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner on the outer reaches of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery (CTG) offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. CTG has been in operation since 2009 although its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade and has mentored a number of now well-known and highly regarded Vietnamese artists. CTG features primarily emerging and mid-career artists and has a regular schedule of exhibitions both at its main gallery space in District 1 and its satellite exhibition space in the Thao Dien Ward of District 2.

DuC MINH GALLERY

31C Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn 9am to 6pm Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock colonial mansion constitutes the private museum and art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Helpful and friendly English-speaking staff are on hand to guide you through the artists and styles of Vietnamese art on offer. Artists exclusive to the gallery include the twins Le Duc Hai and Le Ngoc Thanh plus Hoai Huong and Vu Thang. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to something approaching astronomic.

GALERIE QuYNH

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday Founded originally in 2000 by Viet Kieu Quynh Pham and partner Robert Cianchi as an online resource on the Vietnamese art scene. Initially providing nurture and promotion for the more abstract contemporary works of Vietnamese painters considered too self indulgent for normal exhibition, the gallery now follows a more international programme and helps to advance the works of a select group of locally based contemporary artists. Runs regular exhibitions. Check their website for details.

HIMIKO VISuAL SALOON

324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) www.himikokoro.com 8am to 10.30pm Monday to Sunday A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes. Open for five years, this cafe-cum-gallery, the brainchild of local artist Himiko

Nguyen, has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things. Recent works include The Happening, a year-long project that sees a solo installation by a different artists showcased every fortnight until November 2011.

for the record LITTLE BROKEN HEARTS NORAH JONES

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MuSEuM

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 4441 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. The first floor displays changing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. Move one level up and the galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, featuring sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to various colonial rulers. The third floor exhibits older works from the first century AD through to the early 20th century. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement, accessed through the courtyard in the centre of the building.

PARTICuLAR GALLERY

Kim Do Business Center, 3rd Floor 123 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 8330 www.particulargallery.com 10am to 7pm Mon to Saturday Founded in 1999 with the objective of promoting contemporary Vietnamese art and providing support to young, up-andcoming Vietnamese artists. Various types of art displayed on different media include oil on canvas, lacquer on wood and paper works. The gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website. Specific paintings by Vietnamese artists can be acquired upon request.

PHuONG MAI ART GALLERY

213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1366 129B Le Thanh Ton Q1 Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 9pm Established in 2004, these two galleries focus on the contemporary art works of both fledgling and experienced Vietnamese artists from across the country. Works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu are displayed and an eclectic range of styles is featured, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism. Mediums mainly feature lacquer on wood and oils on canvas, although some silk paintings are available.

SAN ART

3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 www.san–art.org 9.30am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space and reading room dedicated to the exchange and cultivation of contemporary art in Vietnam. It also aims to support the country’s artist community by creating opportunities that provide exhibition space, residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

AFTER A THREE YEAR LuLL, singer-songwriter Norah Jones comes back with her fifth studio album, Little Broken Hearts. This 10-track album is in collaboration with Brian Burton, and compared to her other previous albums, sounds a bit more experimental. A techno beat and basic guitar chord rhythm sets the tone for the first track, Good Morning. Embellished with only a few keyboard playing and strains from the violin, Jones sings about a girl’s indecision to stay or leave a relationship. The under play from the instruments pushes her sweet vocals into the spotlight. A strong upbeat rhythm with drumbeats gives way to Say Goodbye. Jones veers slightly away from her usual unique sound and takes on a more pop vibe with this love song. Booming drumbeats introduces Little Broken Hearts like that of tribal battle — and rightfully so, because Jones sultry voice tells the story of broken hearts taking up arms to exact revenge. Throughout the song, electric embellishments can be heard and there’s even an Enya-ish moment

towards the end. The album slows down to hypnotic guitar tune of She’s 22 which is about letting go of a lover. Jones emotion-filled interpretation is perfect for the song’s message.

ON A CHEERIER NOTE Jones engaging voice in 4 Broken Hearts tells the story about two people who found other partners but it didn’t end well for the parties involved. This heartbreaking song is accompanied by fuzzy guitar playing and resounding drumbeats with a smattering of electro-pop — a definite un-Jones sound. Happy Pills cheery sound is a welcome change from the rest of the album. With Jones honey vocals, love songs never sounded this good. Despite the new flavour in Jones’ music, her voice still shines through all the added seasoning. However, some fans would agree that Jones’ voice stripped off of all the electric mumbo jumbo is still the best way to listen to her. But you’ve got to admit, it’s hard to listen to 10 songs one after the other without some form of music to break the monotony of the theme.

TuDO GALLERY

53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across

August 2012 Word | 111

road

Rules

112 | Word August 2012

Hi Pat, What's up with the BMW C1 scooter with the roof? I see them in town once in a blue moon. How can I get one and are they any good? The BMW C1 was produced in two versions — the 125cc model and later in 2001 followed by the C1 200 version which is actually 176cc. I jumped in one on an Italy trip a few years ago and they’re a very strange concept! If you want something to spin down to the shop in then this is not it. The routine for getting it out of the drive way is: Open the gate, climb in the C1, raise the stand, fasten the seat belt, start the engine,

ride out, kill the engine, remove the seat belt, close the gate back in the C1, lower the front wheel, raise the stand, fasten the seat belt, start the engine and go!?!? Saying all that however, it’s a very well built machine way better than other variations like the Benelli. The engineering as you would expect from a BMW produced vehicle is exceptional and even the 125cc version can pull 75mph and are a fantastic tourer and, of course, great weather protection for the rainy season. As to picking one up here as far as I’m aware the ones that are occasionally seen around town were privately imported by a well-known coffee chain about seven to eight years ago who used them for promotional use. I do believe that they were later sold as last year I did see one on a Vietnam buy and sell website and it was priced at US$12,000. Another problem would be servicing and parts. I doubt if any local service centre here would know where to start with one. Also if you’re planning on giving a friend a lift home forget it; this is a solo driver’s machine…

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6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Tel: 3930 2239 7pm until late Though only 1km from the heavily touristic downtown area, Acoustic is well off most foreigner’s radars. The allVietnamese house band performs every night, playing mostly western covers, and the space is perpetually jammed with young locals either bopping away in the crowd or getting up on stage. Known for being notoriously busy at the weekends, arrive by 7.30pm to stand any chance of getting a seat. Those with a love for heartfelt rock balladry and heavy rock n’ roll should check this place out on Friday nights. Has occasional guest bands from overseas.

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7 Pham Ngoc Thanh, Q3, Tel: 3829 0583 www.napolybar.com 7pm until 12am Named after the famed southern Italian city, the ground floor seating of this popular and somewhat upscale café looks and feels like it came straight out of Italy itself. The upstairs bar in the back is the place to catch local Vietnamese band Quoc Anh play classic 1980s hits every night from 9pm to midnight.

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23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon 7pm till late Tuesday to Sunday One of Saigon’s chicest venues with some of the most awe-inspiring views of the city, this hotel bar offers nightly live music (except on Mondays) from 9pm courtesy of the multinational sextet Motion. Expect a bit of everything from r&b, dance and jazz to hip-hop, rap and rock.

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41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: 3930 3154 www.metallicbar.com 9pm to 1am A popular destination for both locals and foreigners with a hankering for live rock music and a totally smokefree atmosphere, Metallic Bar is one of Saigon’s most established live music venues. Longtime house band, The

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Yellow, a host of Filipino singers and numerous local Vietnamese bands can be seen rocking out to ferocious covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and CCR on a nightly basis between 9pm and 12am before a DJ takes to the decks to perform a selection of contemporary dance, hip hop and r n’ b tunes through to the early hours.

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97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 6024 9am to midnight Wednesdays and Fridays are the nights to catch local favourites such as cover band circuit legend Juram, and latin pop group Warapo. Juram is known for his gravelvoiced versions of anthems by Nirvana, Pink Floyd and Metallica, while Warapo serve up a very physical offering live and exotic Cuban salsa music.

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HANOI-BASED ARTIST, BuI THANH Tam, made his debut in the Ho Chi Minh City art scene last April to showcase his works entitled Crazy People at the Craig Thomas Gallery. Tam, a young artist, graduated from the Vietnam Fine Arts university in Hanoi in 2009. “I knew by the time I was in middle school that I wanted to be an artist when I grew up,” Tam shares. His mentor, Le Huy Tiep who taught him oil painting, encouraged him to work on his talent and continues to inspire him. Although much influenced by the Pop Art movement and the Cynical Realism in China, he still looks up to artists of the Gothic era such as Goya and contemporaries such as Lucian Freud, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon and Damien Hirst. He also finds inspiration from Vietnamese culture. “I am drawn more to the traditional arts such as the Arhant sculptures in Buddhist temples and also the traditional Dong Ho folk paintings of Hanoi,” he explains.

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57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 9am to 11pm This unique establishment sets itself apart from other live music venues in Saigon as the city’s first 3D-themed café. Each floor of this French-colonial three-storey villa has been designed as a homage to both Sagionese and Hanoian street café culture. The ground floor is where the live music happens every Wednesday to Sunday from 9pm to 11pm with pop, rock and country sets performed by the growing plethora of local bands. AC

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6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com Saigon cover band stalwarts Carmen & Brothers play an eclectic selection of well known hits by the likes of Michael Jackson, Leona Lewis and Bon Jovi every night of the week except Mondays. The music usually starts at 9pm but arrive early to ensure prime seating in the lounge.

39/2 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3824 1963 lodgebui@gmail.com 10am to 12am Also known as Dust Lodge, Bar Bui resembles Seventeen Saloon with its red and blue neon lighting, bricked walls, wooden roof, columns and beams. It hosts live flamenco and country music every night from 8.30pm courtesy of three Filipino house bands. 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 8am to 1am This sleekly designed café morphs into a trendy live music nightspot with a selection of resident and guest DJs to be found behind the Sarato-programmed decks. Expect a multitude of electronic sounds, from deep and liquid house to lounge, disco, chill out, hip-hop and a bevy of instrumentals you’ve heard before but can’t quite put your finger on.

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8Bis Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 6679 2406 9am to 11pm A quirky, French-style café with a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Each evening from 8.30pm the self-titled ‘Garden of Love’ houses live music with different themes such as Tien Chien Night (pre-war Vietnamese music), International Covers Night and Lovers Night. The stage is a quaint miniature theatre-style set up with white picket fencing and a painted backdrop of a garden positioned next to a tiny raised balcony where a pianist serenades customers every Monday night. Romantic ballads can be heard every Tuesday and rock every Friday.

288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 www.zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and long-term art project managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy. With a small installation room and two beds, artists can also participate in ZeroStation’s art residency programme.

problem with this is it’s hard to source in Vietnam and the stock we had quickly sold. You can also buy tubeless tyre repair kits (Prima are good) if you fancy the DIY option to get you out of trouble. The kits are about VND840,00 and are easy to use and come with all the tools, plugs and mini co2 canisters so you can re-inflate on the road side. Maybe you were the victim of foreigner in distress… Run for it…

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Pat Joynt Joynt, of Saigon Scooter Centre, has been in Vietnam for 15 years, and working in the scooter and motorcycle industry for 30 years, restoring classic bikes, importing and producing parts. To ask Pat a question about your motorbike, email roadrules@wordhcmc.com

Hi Pat, I have a Yamaha Nuovo with tubeless tires. Recently I went on a road trip and it got a flat. I went to 10 repair shops and none of them were able to fix the tire. They said they didn't have the right equipment for that kind of bike and to find an auto repair place, which I finally did after pushing my bike for 3kms. What is the deal with that? Why couldn't they fix tubeless tires? The Nuovos are produced with two types of wheel rims. The earlier models were tubed and the later models are tubeless. Here more than anywhere to fix a tubeless tyre is easier and way quicker than a tubed tyre. The road side mechanics are masters of these repairs and I’ve had a nail out of a tyre, a plug repair done and been on the way in less than five minutes, way quicker than removing an inner tube, patching the tube, drying the patch, refitting and then inflating. As a back-up you can also buy tyre sealant which can provide a temp fix to get you on the way again and then carry out a permanent repair later. The only

and an interior highlighted by rough rock walls, wood beams and candle-lit beer keg tables.

its five showrooms of works by city artists. It aims to promote the works of contemporary Vietnamese artists to domestic and foreign art appreciators.

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3829 7699 6pm to 1am The inspiration for Carmen is the popular opera named, naturally, Carmen. In place of European leads are the musical talents of a local band as well as Filipino and Vietnamese lead singers crooning to Latin beats. As if being a venue built on Flamenco music was not enough to stand out in Saigon, it further differentiates itself with a cabin-like exterior, steep stairs, a small cavernous-type entrance

A TWIST OF GOLD AND SILVER Tam mainly uses oil on canvas but adds his own twist by using gold and silver powders and leaf in his paintings. Small collage inserts reminiscent of Dong Ho folk paintings are not uncommon in his works. However, uncommon in the Vietnamese artistic landscape is Tam’s art style called parodic realism, which stems from the cynical realism style rooted in China. Tam elaborates, “It is a parody of the absurd and ridiculous, at times sad, things that are happening in my contemporary society.”

This approach materialised in his most recent catalog of Crazy People, wherein Tam put to canvas his fascination on the nouveau riche and their “lust for luxury and appearance, for material things, for consumerism, and conformity.” He makes use of vivid, bold colours in his illustration of the nouveau riche, which all has the same strong and exaggerated features, is portrayed as fabulous, frivolous, and flamboyant. Tam has had exhibitions in China but he considers his wellreceived first solo exhibition, Mona Lisa in Hanoi last 2010, as the turning point of his career. He has also received awards from several art festivals locally, including last year’s Vietnam National Young Artists Festival by the Vietnam Fine Arts Association in Hanoi. When asked about his view on the Vietnam art scene today he expresses, “It is a very stimulating platform for contemporary artists. We as young artists have a lot to take in and to think about to produce our art. There are plenty of concepts that we can come up with by just looking at how Vietnam and its society are developing.” Adding: “Of course, exposure to the outside and the artistic production of other countries is also very important; it can put us in relation to the world at large. As with everything, there is censorship in Vietnam, but if one treads carefully enough, we as artists can do a lot of things.” — Lyra Dacio To see his works, visit Craig Thomas Gallery at 27 Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, or log on to www. buithanhtam.com

August 2012 Word | 113

sound & vision

decks, drums & rock n' roll

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DEP TRAI Lyra Dacio chats with the ‘handsome’ band’s lead singer

FINDING A NICHE Dep Trai has found its niche in performing reggae, funk, rock, R&B, and hip-hop. Brian explains, “The

114 | Word August 2012

heart of my music is rooted in my love for reggae. For me it is music that expresses freedom, love for all mankind and happiness.” He cites Bob Marley as one of his favourite singers. “He produced peace through his music.” With their authentic love for making music, Dep Trai has also composed some original songs that they perform to the crowd, and they plan to make more. When asked about what the Saigon music scene is like, Brian feels that there is an oversaturation of house and pop music, “I think what could be improved in the music scene here is more openness to the different styles of music, and different expressions of music. Most people are open-minded which is a wonderful thing. After all, music is creativity, feeling and movement. For some, music is their escape, for others music is their life, and then music can be a sanctuary, your temple or pagoda —setting the mood and atmosphere. So by keeping an open mind you may find something you’ve never had before.” Dep Trai has played at various venues in Saigon like the Acoustic Bar but has found their home in Coffee Max in Phu Nhuan. Soon, you can hear them rock the Hard Rock Café. Follow them at facebook.com/DepTraiBand.

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103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3914 0007 www.seventeensaloon.co.vn 7pm until late A favourite among both Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this Wild West-themed bar doubles up as a great live music venue with no less than three highly talented Filipino cover bands rocking out nightly. B & U, Wild West and Most

+ + + + + 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com 9am to 12am Those in search for a sound of the familiar will find solace at one of Saigon’s longest running bars. A different cover band gets up every night of the week (except Mondays) at this pub-like Celtic establishment. Celtic Band knock out jovial Irish ditties on Tuesdays; the classic rock power of Risky Red and Mr. Bo can be heard on Wednesdays and Fridays; Wonderluster play pop hits on Thursdays, and rollicking Japanese blues group, 12 Bar Blues take over on the weekends. AC

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9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 11am to 2am Cuban bands are a mainstay at this outdoor bar with salsa band Warapo providing a musical melting pot of South American rhythms every Tuesday as part of the hotel’s Havana Ladies Night, while the six-piece Luna Negra like to mix it up with salsa, bachata and merengue on Wednesdays through to Mondays. Both bands start at 9pm.

MAKING THE ROuNDS IN THE Saigon music scene is the all-American band, Dep Trai, composed of Matt Willis (bass player), Charis Ryan (guitar), Justin Reeves (drummer), and Brian Jenkins (singer). They got together a year ago when Brian, who had been jamming with Juram’s and Maeve’s bands, was approached by a manager to start his own band. “Within a week of networking and checking out some local talents, I formed my initial band and we started practice sessions and we got really good and in a very short period of time”, Brian relates. All four of the band members have been making music for a long time. In fact, Matt, their bass player, has already toured throughout Asia and Europe and worked with big names such as James Taylor, Chris Isaak, and K.D. Lang. Putting the band together was easy but finding a name that fits was a challenge. After a much heated discussion, Brian let the audience on one of their shows to decide for them, “We yelled out at them three names and everyone cheered heavily when we said, ‘Dep Trai!’”

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25C Tu Xuong, Q3 Formerly Tadao Coffee Bar, the promoters behind RockFanClub, the long-running underground Vietnamese hard rock and metal night, have moved in, finally giving the city’s moshers a home of their own. Local hard rock and metal bands can be found playing every night of the week from around 9pm at this tiny yet comfortable and cool venue.

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CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox 1 and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3862 2425 www.cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 3775 2521 www.lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: 3849 4567 www.galaxycine.vn

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HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MuSIC 112 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre is the perfect place for classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to other performance groups in the city. Also provides music education in undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels for the southern region of Vietnam. There are two concert rooms (500 seats and 100 seats) with two performances weekly. To obtain a programme of events, visit the Opera House.

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INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY

Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn www.hcmcchoir.com This well–established 40–strong choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3. The Choir’s repertoire includes classic works by Bach, Beethoven, Handel, and Verdi as well as songs from musicals, traditional songs from Britain, Christmas carols in many languages, gospel songs, and national and European Anthems.

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22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 0577 8am until late As the name suggests, John Lennon's wife inspired the name of this excellent bar. Refurbished and expanded in 2011, Yoko is undoubtedly one of the coolest and most unique venues in Saigon, hosting live music nightly from some of the city's best local musicians and bands, including 6789, Microwave and Coconuts. Expect classic rock, jazz, funk, country, metal, grunge, blues and everything else in-between. An unmissable destination for grassroots and underground music lovers.

PERFORMING ARTS

The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 7419, www.hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet

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www.saigonplayers.com saigonplayers@gmail.com A non-profit community theatre group whose mission is to uphold the arts while giving to charity. Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights at 7.30pm every first Wednesday of the month at La Habana and script nights at 7.30pm every third Wednesday of the month at venues alternating between Boomarang Bistro Saigon in Q7 and Geisha's Tea House in Q1.

PRODuCTION COMPANIES CREA TV

339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 7434 www.crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Facilities are located at Thanh Da Island and include two studios (400m2 and 150m2) as well as in-house post-production. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisations and permits, art department, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS

91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10 Tel: 0908 477079 www.factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films is a diverse, creative, bespoke production company built on broad film and media experience. Their team has developed and delivered content worldwide and specialises in TVCs, documentary, web and TV content with vast experience in all stages of production from development through to post production and delivery.

BAND & DJ LISTINGS BAD NEIGHBOuR claualehm@hotmail.com Bad Neighbour plays a combination of Latin and rock with some reggae and rap thrown into the mix. A multinational outfit with nine members, Bad Neighbour can be seen performing on Fridays at Hard Rock Café. BOB WITTENBACH (BONGO BOB) Tel: 0903 193241 Ex-professional rock, blues, jazz and pop drummer from London who has played with various artists including John Otway, The Breaks and The Scaffold. Has played many gigs in Saigon with Mike Belmes, Curtis King and Juram, among others. Looking to hook up with like-minded blues/rock musicians interested in bringing an Asian feel to Western themes. CARMEN & BROTHERS LIVE Acoustic Band carmenandbrothers@yahoo.com facebook.com/lahabanasaigon La Habana’s famous Filipino house band captivates audiences most nights of the week with Carmen’s extraordinary vocal range and an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary pop, r&b, retro, latin, rock and ballads CuRTIS KING BAND Tel: 0908 339405 www.curtiskinglive.com A funky, bluesy, travelling rock ‘n’ roll band with an east-meets-west sound. Founded in 1996, the band has performed all over the world and has been featured on MTV, the BBC, China Central Television, XoneFM Radio and HTV. Having recorded four albums, the band can be caught playing throughout Vietnam and the region. Available for weddings, corporate, embassy, consulate or chamber of commerce events. DJ AJAM http://djajam.podomatic.com Vasco’s resident DJ Ajam (UK) available for private parties, clubs, bars and versatile in any style of music. With 17 years of DJing experience, Ajam has played at venues worldwide including the worlds number one club brand Pacha. Now teaching private DJ classes to all ages. DJ equipment and sound system for rent.

HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA

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Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 0088 www.megastar.vn SMOKING

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ICONS 101

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 5451 www.idecaf.gov.vn

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74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12am (weekdays). Open late on weekends. With two rooms set up to cater to bands and DJs (Yellow Room & Blue Room), Vasco’s is one of Saigon’s most prominent live music venues. Catering mainly to the musical tastes of muso expats, the likes of DJ Premier, Free The Robots, Handsome Furs and Daedelus have headlined this former opium den. Local DJs such as Jordan Howard and DJ Jase regularly put on nights with hip-hop, dubstep, drum n’ bass, reggae and dance firmly on rotation. Local expat latin-punk band Bad Neighbour also plays on most Friday nights.

IDECAF

perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Shows feature both national and international stars, and take place in one of the most elegant buildings in the city. There are two annual seasons: Spring through summer (January to June) and autumn through winter (July to December), featuring performances every 9th and 19th monthly. Tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

Wanted impressively belt out like-for-like hits by rock staples such as Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses’ while pumping Vietnamese techno blasts out of the speakers in between sets.

LIVE MUSIC

DJ JORDAN HOWARD Tel: 01223 447721 whitfield@jordanhoward.net American DJ specialising in eclectic mixes of 1980s, pop, rock, and hip-hop to audiences of all ages and nationalities. A Vasco's veteran of three years, Jordan has played many balls and corporate events around Vietnam.

DMA: DIGITAL MuSIC AGENCY 380/13B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3843 6459 (ask for Ms. Nhi) www.dma.vn DMA is the first international DJ training centre in Vietnam. Run by professional local and overseas DJs, DMA offers

training programmes and job opportunities for those wanting to become professional DJs or looking to learn for pleasure. DMA uses the latest professional DJ equipment and software, and doubles up as an events company and talent agency. EVERYONE’S A DJ everyonesadjvietnam@gmail.com www.everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com One of the top and longest running indie electro, 80s new wave, 50/60s dance parties in Saigon. Its concept is simple: to create a party with a DIY aesthetic heavily rooted in art, film, and design. Fronted by superkid, the parties occur monthly with rotating DJs and VJs. GILLES SNOWCAT (FROM AWAKEN) www.awaken.be, awamail@hellokitty.com Awaken’s Gilles Snowcat is in Saigon looking to join forces with musicians who don’t want to play it safe in order to make his magnetic soul music caress the eared need apply. JuRAM GAVERO TRIO juramgavero@hotmail.com Juram has been playing around the city for the last 12 years, and is now one of the most popular acts in Ho Chi Minh City. His blend of eclectic music styles gathered from his experiences around the world stand him in good stead to make you enjoy your evening any night of the week. MARK “MR. JOLLY” JOLLY Tel: 0918 119987 With over 20 years DJing experience and close to a decade playing in Vietnam, Mr Jolly can cover pretty much any musical situation from private parties to the largest club and corporate events. Can play a wide range of musical styles despite having very little hair. RISKY RED rickreid@vnn.vn Either a three-piece acoustic light rock combo or a six piece full-on rock ‘n’ roll, blues and boogie, party Band. Regular around Saigon. THE WANDERLuSTER Tel: 0122 3022 262 davis@wanderlustersvn.com The Wanderlusters are an acoustic, vocally inspired band, outfitted with traditional blurgrass instruments, that plays American roots music. Influenced by country, bluegrass, rock, folk, gospel, and blues, The Wanderlusters play your favourite hillbilly soul songs. WARAPO BAND Tel: 0933 067752 warapo.production@gmail.com This high-energy seven piece Cuban band brings the sensuality and the passion from the Carribbean. Their music is a unique blend of styles ranging from salsa, merengue, cha cha, reggaeton and pop that’s ideal for events and private parties.

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LEISuRE & WELLNESS

LISTINGS

LEISuRE AMuSEMENT 116 BASKETBALL 116 CLuBS & SOCIETIES 116 COOKING CLASSES 116 CRICKET 116 DANCING 116 FITNESS 116 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RuGBY 118 GOLF 118 LEISuRE - GENERAL 118 SPORTS CLASSES 118 TENNIS 118

leisure

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

VIETNAMESE CLASSES 118 YOGA & MEDITATION 119 WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 120 COSMETIC SuRGERY 120 DENTAL 120 HAIRDRESSERS 121 MEDICAL 122 PHARMACIES 122 SALONS 122 SPAS 122

SAIGON EXPATS

AMuSEMENT DAI NAM THEME PARK

Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 384 5845 6:30am to 5:30pm A mammoth of a place, the superkitsch Dai Nam is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. Just 50km from Ho Chi Minh City past Thu Dau Mot on Highway 13, the amusement park rides include two huge roller coasters, an excellent go kart track, dodgems, kiddy’s bouncy castles and much more. Then there's the well set-up water park, a non-cringe worthy zoo modeled on its counterpart in Singapore, a 5000 sqm temple and the cultural area. Well worth the VND50,000 ticket price.

LASER TAG

5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun. Hand over VND40,000 and you’re in for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun. The gaming area is a little on the small side but the equipment all functions well, and you’re provided with a fun and alternative leisure activity. A collection of arcade games can be found in foyer.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTQANICAL GARDENS

2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3829 3728 www.saigonzoo.net 7am to 5pm At less than VND10,000 for entry, Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical gardens is a great option for a day out in the city. Dating back to 1875, Saigon has one of the oldest zoos in the world, which makes it a famous site not only for the Vietnamese. You can get lost amongst the many rare orchids, ornamental plants in the garden or marvel at over one hundred species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Some of the enclosures don’t meet western standards so the wary should steer clear.

BASKETBALL PHAN DINH PHuNG CLuB

8 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

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kurtislaw@best.com.vn A basketball night at Saigon South International School every Thursday, open to anyone who wants to play or watch. Call Kurtis Law on 01265 638 486 to secure an invitation.

CLuBS & SOCIETIES INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM www.ilvietnam.com This long–established social organisation fosters social contacts for women in the city and currently has a membership of 500 women from 42 nations. The group offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Meetings are held at 10am every Thursday at the Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur, Q3. Membership for the first year costs VND700,000; annual renewal is VND500,000.

PARKLANDS COuNTRY CLuB

628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3898 9000 www.parklandvn.com 6am to 10pm Opened in 2003 the Parkland Country Club offers a green retreat from the frenetic city with its 2-hectare space in An Phu. The club is able to organise a wide range of activities such as wine tasting and sports tournaments due to its extensive facilities, which include three different dining options, supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, 3 tennis courts, squash courts, a lap and fun pool, spa and premier gyms. Monthly memberships are VND3.5 million.

SAIGON TOWN CLuB

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonatownclub.com 6am to 10pm Up and running since May 1998, Sedona Town Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide private sanctuary from the busy streets. Amongst the attractions are the club’s recreational facilities, which include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi. Members can benefit from the secretarial support service on offer as well as the alfresco dining option offered poolside at the ‘Coco Cabana’. The lush garden adjacent to this outside eatery provides a great option for kicking back with a cocktail. A 3-month membership will set you back VND4 million.

leisure & wellness COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLuB

36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: 3820 9734 www.overlandclub.jp A Japanese home cooking class that meets every Sunday afternoon from 1.305pm. Run by a Japanese pottery artist, Overland Club also organises pottery classes, Vietnamese-Japanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating papers and multinational cuisine days. The club is open to all nationalities and ages.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TuC

74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com Learn how to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local fine dining specialists Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients and the preparation of three tasty local dishes. Some tricks of the trade and the chance to sample the fruits of your labour afterwards also feature. A seasonal desert wraps things up nicely. Courses run from Tuesday to Sunday with two sessions per day from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. The class is VND800,000 for adults and VND500,000 for children.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 351 22 764 www.vietnamcookery.com Established in 1999, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy. Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa 15 minutes from the city centre, the course caters to all skill levels. An introduction to a traditional Vietnamese kitchen and cooking utensils is an added bonus as well as a trip to a central food market. For VND800,000 per person you can attend their morning course from 9.30am to 1pm or the afternoon course from 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Meals included.

CRICKET SAIGON CRICKET LEAGuE

The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations – Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka – as well as a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club (UCC). New recruits are welcome. The teams play on weekends at RMIT and have regular practice sessions. The season starts every October.

VCA (VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

COuNTRY TEAMS: ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLuB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLuB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLuB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLuB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 Samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AuSTRALIA CRICKET CLuB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLuB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 Suhard.amit@yahoo.com

uCC (uNITED CRICKET CLuB) Asif Ali, Mobile: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

DANCING DANCENTER

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung Tel: 3519 4490/4340 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio available online.

LATIN STREET DANCE

Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday at Geisha's Coffee and Tea House (2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1). It's individual dancing (no partnering) and you just need to buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate. Contact fred@ salsaaigon.com.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 www.saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to their studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”. Scheduling information is available online.

SAIGON SWING CATS

www.saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday at Caffe Molinari (Petrohouse Tower, 5 Le Duan, Q1).

FITNESS

Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, An Phu.

DIAMOND HEALTH CLuB

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found at this leading department store. Off–peak membership from VND1.7 million per month.

JOHN HuY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRuCTOR

Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise programmes, weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports. Services include fitness and nutrition assessment.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 A 750m2 space that offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA and kid’s basic martial art classes as well as private fitness, bodybuilding and cardio conditioning. Come to get into shape, take out stress or learn a new sport with foreign instructors. Open to everyone from kids to adults and beginners to professionals.

LA COCHINCHINE

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 1812 www.lacochinchine.net This new colonial–themed gym is a large, open–plan space, situated on the top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, loads of cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms. Also offers classes. Peak membership starts at VND2.2 million per month.

L’APOTHIQuAIRE FITNESS CENTRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Taebo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. Membership to the small professional fitness studio costs VND1.8 million per month, or just VND1.3 million per month for a one–year membership. Drop–in sessions cost VND300,000. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room to help you unwind after a work out.

NTFQ2

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq@nutrifort.com Has a strong focus on fitness classes and personal training. Besides an excellent weights and cardio area, the facility runs group classes including power yoga, Pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. The centre also contains a spa and a restaurant serving up calorie– calibrated meals to help members stay in line with individual fitness programmes.

PAuL SIMOS

www.paulsimos.com paul@paulsimoshealthcoach.com Tel: 01286 305 982 Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul has studied all major dietary theories and uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them. Contact Paul for a free health history consultation.

PATRICK NGuYEN

Tel: 093 815 6865 www.corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial arts trainer with 14 years of fitness

AIS SPORTS CENTRE

Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) www.aissportscentre.com With a 25m swimming pool, Astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay in shape. Memberships start at VND10 million per year and are payable in advance or semi–annual installments. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

Queen Ann Building, 28–30–32 Le Lai, Q1 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring state–of–the– art equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes such as Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance, Body Combat and more.

CARAVELLE CLuB SPA

19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool. Monthly membership costs VND3.2 million.

CYRIL AND YOu-BODY AND MIND CO LTD

Tel: 0947 771326 www.cyril-and-you.com Nutritional advice and personalised programmes for body toning. Fitness at the BoatHouse in An Phu at 8.30am on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Also offers “Cyril & You Urban Fitness”, teaching children’s boxing, and fitness and cardio boxing for girls at Top Floor, 49

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leisure & wellness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California. Certified by the National Sports Academy Of Medicine and a certified Sivananda yoga instructor trained by Green Path Yoga.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLuB

8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. A good place to take time out at the pool–side bar. Costs VND400,000 a day or VND2.2 million a month.

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 www.saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool. Standard monthly membership starts from VND4.5 million while a day pass goes for VND450,000. Special yearly memberships and family offers available.

SAWANO NEWELL, uS CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRuCTOR

Tel: 01225 811 080 www.sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano is qualified in mat work and Pilates equipment, and offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs and schedule.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 Membership costs VND12 million for six months and VND21 million for a year at this small but well–equipped gym. Equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness – Vietnam’s second largest gym. Memberships gives free access to regular fitness classes and involves a one-time free entry, plus monthly subscription.

STEPHANE LAPORTE, FITNESS COACH

leisure & wellness court, swimming pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

THE LANDMARK CLuB

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext. 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Call for further information.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLuB

Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Equipped with technologically advanced equipment, large cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, this gym has spacious changing facilities with sauna and steam rooms, three group class studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, Step Aerobics and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RuGBY AuSTRALIAN RuLES FOOTBALL

www.vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in both Saigon (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT University, Q7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age, preferred sport or ability, all are warmly invited to become an active part of an inclusive Club. Contact Nick on 0937 683 230.

LES GAuLOIS DE SAIGON

www.gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

OLYMPIQuE SAIGON

astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years. Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

SAIGON RAIDERS

jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams in the nearby provinces. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent for weekly training sessions and matches. Contact Jon Hoff.

Tel: 0908 897 604 www.personaltrainers.asia Stephane Laporte is a certified personal trainer and sports massage therapist. Take a free assessment and receive a tailored goal-driven fitness and nutrition programme to get you in the shape you want to achieve. Programmes include pre/post-race preparation and therapy, triathlon coaching, corrective and functional exercises, weight loss/gain, TRX, Kettlebells and Capoeira as well as many other services.

SAIGON RuGBY CLuB

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLuB

www.saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking The Crescent complex’s lagoon, this multi-purpose and organically designed fitness and wellness centre offers an array of modern facilities. A state-of-the-art gym fitted out with the latest Technogym equipment allows users to track their progress with personalised keys, while other features include group fitness classes, yoga sessions, a squash

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saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social touch rugby is played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT University from 4pm. The Saigon Geckos welcome both men and women of all nationalities to join and enjoy a few beers afterwards. Does regular tours of the region for tournaments, as well as inviting visiting teams for ladies’ touch rugby, contact rugby and men’s over–35 contact rugby. Beginners welcome.

SAIGON SAINTS

GOLF LADIES’ FIRST GOLF

www.ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from

month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

invites you to play slo-pitch softball. Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency. VND220,000 per hour.

Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

SAIGON SOuTH GOLF

SQuASH

VIETNAMESE LANGuAGE STuDEIS – SAIGON

MY YOGA EXERCISE

Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7 Tel: 5411 2001 Visitors’ green fees are VND400,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course behind FV hospital. Fees discounted by 40% on Wednesdays. On the driving range, a basket of 50 balls costs VND60,000. Equipment hire is also available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT

77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756 660 www.songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city. Individual memberships cost VND38 million or VND63 million per year.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COuNTRY CLuB

Long Thanh My Village, Q9 Tel: 6280 0101 www.vietnamgolfcc.com Also known as the Thu Duc Golf Course, this facility just off Highway 1 has two courses, one following a more Asian style, and one with distinctly modern touches. Both 18–hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

LEISuRE – GENERAL HASH HOuSE HARRIERS

www.saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long–established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Also offers walking trails too. Bus leaves from the Caravelle Hotel at 2pm every Sunday.

PuSH CLIMBING

67/1 Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung Tel: 01264 722 134 www.pushclimbing.com Push Climbing is Ho Chi Minh City’s and Vietnam’s first dedicated bouldering climbing gym and pro shop. Located in District 7, the gym is open seven days a week and there are facilities for storing bicycles and gear. Drinks and snacks are also available, as well as a comfy area for people to relax after tackling the various routes.

RAINBOW DIVERS

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving courses & trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu. Operates PADI–National Geographic Dive Centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 members, including Japanese, American, Canadian and Taiwanese players. Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGuE

www.thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts club, which runs a competitive league for 14 pub–based teams. Check out the website for details on how to get involved and to see the recent 180 scores.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGuE www.saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the squash court. For new players or those without a partner, there is a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets can be rented and balls are provided inclusive. Book in advance. Day rate is VND250,000 for use of all facilities.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLuB

Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to noon. Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James (Tornados HC) on 0938 889 899 or Rina at rinabakher@ yahoo.com.

uLTIMATE FRISBEE

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 3pm to 5pm. For information how to get involved call David Jensen on 0909 458 890 or Tino Tran on 0903 042 014.

X–ROCK CLIMBING

75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: 6210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 2. Prices start at VND170,000 for a group pass of four, with a two-hour safety course costing VND500,000.

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern & southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities. Private lessons are VND250,000 per hour, group classes for 3 or more people are VND160,000 per person.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGuAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6678 0914/ 0979 654487 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

YOGA & MEDITATION DR. SHIVA

shivaprakashyoga@yahoo.com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City for the last two years in a variety of locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. His yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga. Available to conduct personal, group sessions, health seminars and workshops.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA

Tel: 0909 648193 www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering

Tel: 0128 630 5982 www.myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation. Also offers tropical Hatha yoga. Private sessions and group classes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLuB

Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 35149009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon’s luxury state-of-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week at varied times in a specifically designed soft floored studio. A host of certified, experienced international and local practitioners whose styles include Ashtanga, Power Yoga, Hatha and also Pilates classes.

SAIGON YOGA

Tel: 090 835 2265 www.saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a registered "Experienced Instructor" through Yoga Alliance. Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats & Trainings.

SHRI YOGA STuDIO

54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 5347 / 0913 764 776 www.shriyogavietnam.com Newly opened yoga studio focusing on Ashtanga Yoga and suitable for all levels; basic, intermediate and

SPORTS CLASSES CAPOEIRA

25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail.com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance. Held near the zoo, lessons begin at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and at the same time on Fridays at DanCenter. Admission is VND70,000 for one session or VND250,000 for four sessions.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

Tel: 7303 1100 www.saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

TENNIS KY HOA II

796 Su Van Hanh, Q10, Tel: 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH INTERNATIONAL TENNIS COuRT

291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club. You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour, and all gear (including a ball boy) is available for rent.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced

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leisure & wellness

VAJRAYANA BuDDHISM MEDITATION GROuP

saigongompa@gmail.com www.saigon-gompa.org Meditation group using specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

VIETNAM BuDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITuTE

Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com.vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretary-general of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and nonVietnamese speakers.

VIVACOLOuR

33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2 Lotus Road 28, Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailored-made relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available. Contact Pascaline for more information.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE Tel: 01266 626467 www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING

Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735 833 (Thuy) www.yogaliving.com.vn Conducting over 150 commercial and private classes a month, daily offers are Ashtanga based Hath yoga, Vinyasa yoga and Sivananda and classical yoga classes.

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YMC – YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3929 1707 www.ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes of different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow. VND400,000 for a one-week trial.

WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM

8 Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and an American-educated and licensed doctor of physical therapy speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, sports injury rehabilitation, and manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

DR CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT

American Chiropractic Clinic, 8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 chantel@vietnamchiropractic.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam practicing out of American Chiropractic Clinic. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and postoperative rehabilitation. Rehabilitation may include combination of hands on manual therapy, specific exercise prescription and other modalities.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Care 1, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com www.saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation

HAPPINESS (HANH PHuC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7 Tel: 0906 684 969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, and special treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular etc), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders. Dr Kim has studied TCM in Korea and China

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY – DAVID TRuONG TAN Tel: 0903 098 124 www.osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

SARAH MARTIN

Tel: 0937 442 516 www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu. Home visits available.

THETA HEALING

Tel: 0918 591 933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information or to book a session call or email Jodie on jodieastwood@gmail.com.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOuR

Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture - alternative fields of health care that focus on correcting energy misbalance by combining the energy of colour and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for, but not limited to, muscular and joint pain, stress, sleep issues, jetlag, and tailormade programmes for body revitalization, mood boosting, and to stop smoking. Other areas focus on treating asthma, ear infections, and general light children’s medical issues, as well as cosmetic problems such as skin wrinkling and sun spot removal. Contact Pascaline for more information.

COSMETIC SuRGERY CAO THANG AESTHETIC CENTRE

135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn A range of eye and aesthetic procedures are available at this modern hospital. With state-of-the-art devices, services include laser vision correction, cataract surgery, hi-myopia treatment, Botox anti-wrinkle treatment, dermal filler (Restylane) treatment, eyelid reshaping, eyelid fat removal and brow lifts.

DR. Tu’S COSMETIC & LASER SuRGERY CLINIC

290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3836 7685 www.bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound–

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, carried out with the best equipment by expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems such as sagging, dull skin, unwanted tattoos and acne by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic has the latest therapies including laser hair removal, stem cell therapy, skin rejuvenation by IPL, Botox and filler hydrolifting, anti-aging and hair loss regrowth treatments.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SAKuRA DENTAL CLINIC

90 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1. Tel: 3829 8453 96 Ha Huy Tap, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5415 6868 www.sakuradental.com.vn An international-standard private dental healthcare group established in the 1990s and led by a Vietnamese senior dentist graduated from Tokyo Medical & Dental University (Japan). Comprised of a team of local and foreign dental specialists, providing total dental care services from dental check-ups to specialist works like whitening, braces, implants, and sleep apnea mouth guards.

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Long–established, state–of–the–art clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6777 www.wescoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

HAIRDRESSERS SMILE DENTAL

173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open Mon-Sat from 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm, closed on Sundays and public holidays. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses state-of-the-art equipment, including fractional CO2 laser, Q-Switch Nd:Yag laser, Fraxel laser, and is the only skin clinic in Vietnam offering Digital Dermoscopy for skin cancer evaluation. Other treatments include eczema, acne, psoriasis, laser treatments (wrinkles, melasma, freckles, scars, keloids); Botox, Restylane and Dysport.

ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAuTY

Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal. Shampoo, cut & blow–dry for VND530,000. Mini facials from VND250,000.

ART HAIR

37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp– looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

DENTAL ACCADENT

Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 822 8800, www.accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

EuROPEAN DENTAL CLINIC

17-17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Dentists from Japan and France providing total dental care. Open Mondays from 8.00am to 8.00pm and Saturdays from 8.00am to 5.00pm. Emergency hotline: 0909 551 916 / 0916 352 940.

e s.

84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 3920 5813 www.soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in high-quality yoga training and yoga retail products, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and other classes with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally produced yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Also offers 30 per cent off yoga class passes and memberships on first day of every month.

269/3 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 2110 www.yogasanti.com Operating to create an oasis of peace in Saigon, Yoga Santi strives to provide thoughtful and challenging classes for students of all levels while offering a variety of styles ranging from athletic to gentler classes. All teachers have received international training and are well versed in instructing Hatha yoga, Vinyasa yoga, Yin yoga, Hatha flow and Sivananda yoga.

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SuRGERY

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

Tim

SOHAM YOGA STuDIO AND BOuTIQuE

YOGA SANTI

273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy – the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system. English–speaking Dr. Le Hung can address all your needs in these areas.

assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic minutes from downtown. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available by a foreign orthodontist.

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3435 www.fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 www.starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym. Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non– member prices.

INSTITuTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE

based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions such as hair transplants, eyebrow lifts, nose, eye and ear shaping. The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

STAR FITNESS GYM

and speaks Korean, Chinese and some English. A Vietnamese translator is also available.

E Vietnam Award fo m 11 na r “Ex t 0 e i 2 cellen ce in Dentistry” by V

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical

A larger second studio equipped with six classrooms and 14 shower rooms in the centre of the city provides a great space for a yoga workshop, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

201 0,

advanced. Prenatal and postnatal classes also available. Classes are held in both English and Vietnamese with internationally certified instructors in cooperation with Tirisulayoga Singapore. Scheduled 200-hour teacher training courses (RYT200) are available throughout the year.

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

02 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Dist. 3, HCM City (Ho Con Rua - Turtle Lake) Tel: 38 22 62 22 / 38 23 92 94 starlightdental@gmail.com www.starlightdental.net

August 2012 Word | 121

leisure & wellness COLOR HAuS

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 www.colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean–based salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you. A wash and cut starts at VND80,000 from a junior stylist. To cover grey hair, price starts at VND250,000 while a full colour and highlights range from VND350,000 to VND550,000. They also have a new nail care service.

CONCEPT COIFFuRE

48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4625 Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated and rebranded her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a designer villa in Thao Dien, Q2. Open daily from 9am to 8pm, a full new range of services is now on offer, including a dedicated salon for kids: Concept Kids. Only top products such as Alfaparf and Natural Rendez-Vous are used.

JASMINE

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEuP

119 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 SD-11,Panorama Phu My Hung, Tan Phong, Q.7 Tel: 5413 3300 Academy 117 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 3911 0915/3911 0916 www.kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this Singapore–based outlet provides hair treatments, from a simple wash and blow dry from a student (VND5,000) to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist (VND310,000). All services are monitored by highly qualified instructors. Appointments recommended. Open 9am to 9pm.

THE SALON

21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

VENuS

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look for a night out on the town.

YKC HAIR STuDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist Ky The Guy (Cut and Colour Specialist), YKC Hair Studio atteacts a loyal expat clientele thanks to the well trained staff and friendly English-speaking environment. Top industry products such as Tigi and Goldwell are used. A cut and blow-dry starts at VND550,000.

MEDICAL AuSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS

273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10, Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health– checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house

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pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

CAO THANG EYE HOSPITAL

135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn Cao Thang is a comprehensive eye hospital overseeing 6000 surgeries per year (laser vision correction, cataract surgery and eyelid reshaping). English speaking staff, a member of the World Association of Eye Hospitals (WAEH), and quality assurance by the Joint Commission International (JCI).

CARE 1

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI) – FOuNDATION ALAIN CARPENTIER

1 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine. A nonprofit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heat Institute to fund children’s operations.

COLuMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC

8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1 Tel: 3823 8888 Well–established and well–regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with doctors (both overseas and Vietnamese) on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable, with a health check–up costing from VND400,000 to VND800,000.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider whose highly–qualified foreign and Vietnamese doctors can handle anything from emergencies to lab tests and X– rays, in–patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5411 3333 Emergency: 5411 3500 www.fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, with maternity care a specialty. Hotline (24– hour) 5411 3500.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre conveniently located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

IFC INDIVIDuAL AND FAMILY COuNSELING HCMC

A 2.4 Parkview Building, Q7, 28/1A Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 0903 031208 libbyzin@yahoo.com With offices located in district one and Phu My Hung, this nonprofit counselling clinic offers sliding scale fees to all its patients. For eight years in HCMC, IFC has been the only teaching clinic practicing western psychotherapy with attention to the values of other nationalities and cultures.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine. A non–profit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heart Institute to fund children’s operations.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. The International SOS medical team of expatriate and national doctors and nurses provide general practice consultations for the whole family. Specialist care is available in many fields, including general practice, women’s health, pediatrics, vaccinations, physiotherapy/osteopathy, dental and more. In-house pharmacy has a wide selection of prescription and over the counter medication.

STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordskin.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open & doctors on call 24/7.

PHARMACIES INTERNATIONAL SOS

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The in-house pharmacy at this wellrespected clinic provides an excellent range of all medications, both over the counter and prescription-only. Pharmacy managed and staffed by English speaking team.

SALONS FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 3521 0599 www.famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

JuST MEN

40 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services (starting from VND200,000), offers massages for the tired executive, with a head, shoulder and neck massage costing VND150,000. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

L’APOTHIQuAIRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3; 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1218 www.lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages (from VND550,000), facials (from VND500,000), sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing (around VND210,000). Also offers gentleman’s care.

ROSA BLANCA BEAuTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In the heart of downtown and specialising in all forms of skincare, this is a well– designed and outfitted day spa offering body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments. Nice decor completes the atmosphere.

SPAS AQuA DAY SPA

Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

CAT MOC SPA

61-63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6295 8926 www.catmocspa.com Established in 2010 and aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanesestyle haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. Open daily from 9am to 10pm including national holidays.

GLOW SPA

129A Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 8368 www.glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes (VND400,000) to two-hour hot stone therapy (VND1.2 million), includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care as well as a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA

69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: 3827 7188 www.indochine-spa.com Nestled in the heart of the city, Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with a range of aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by fully qualified therapists using 100% natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

THANH SANCTuARY

MIu MIu FOOT & SPA

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6659 3609 www.koneko.asia/miumiu 10am to 11:30pm (Last booking 10:30pm) Located in the city centre, and standing for “Nyanya” (or “cry of the kitten”), Miu Miu is an elegant and serene Japanese spa offering various body, facial and foot massages, as well as several nail treatments including manicures, polish and design, and scrubs. Massages range from 60 minutes to two hours and rates are from VND65,000 to VND530,000. The spa also offers Thann and Harnn, popular beauty products in Thailand.

Q SPA & SALON

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3905 4609 An old world, Indochine-esque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a deep tissue, hot stone or four-hands massage. Also offers hair styling and facials.

QING SPA

110 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa above the foot massage salon that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service and members get a 20 percent discount off foot & body massage as well as a 10 percent discount on other services.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLuB

3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9901 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Spa InterContinental offers guests the professional spa expertise and a truly sensory experience. With an extensive menu, the Spa InterContinental provides the caring touch of the local therapists and the best of active pure ingredients and exotic botanical recipes, bringing to life Asia’s healing traditions.

SPA TROPIC

79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: 3910 5575 www.spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Established since 2002, Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Spa Tropic offers a complete range of spa services and an al fresco café with a healthy food and drinks menu crafted by a New York trained organic chef.

Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated with furnishings brought in from Thailand. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies such as massages and body scrubs.

THE SPA

Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0290 www.thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 ext. 2235 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level. Six treatment rooms for women, four treatment rooms for men, one foot massage room and two VIP spa suites (couples’ treatment rooms) are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Treatments start at VND400,000 and packages are available regularly.

THE SPA AT THE DuXTON HOTEL

Duxton Hotel, 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999, www.duxton.com Conveniently located in the very central Duxton Hotel, The Spa offers a full range of services including deluxe manicures and pedicures, aroma body massages, 60–minute foot massages, and the usual sauna and steam bath facilities.

XuAN SPA

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234, www.hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury downtown spa noted for its tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages (from VND900,000), facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

YKC SPA

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3. Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction for over a decade has firmly established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors. Complimentary beverages are offered in addition to a complete range of professional spa services. Family owned since 1996, YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur Street, Q1 Tel: 6299 0563 www.mekongblissspa.com 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm) Located in the centre of Saigon, Mekong Bliss Spa is a top place to enjoy authentic Vietnamese spa treatments. As well as offering an impressive plethora of services such as herbal foot scrubs, warm stone therapy and purifying facials, part of the proceeds go towards helping disadvantage youth in the Mekong Delta, meaning you’re making difference while getting pampered. What could be better than that?

First Impression (Deep cleansing) with 40 min for 660,000 VND Facial Rejuvenation (Vitamin C ) with 60 min for 1,170,000 VND and 90 min for 1,650,000 VND 23C Ton Duc Thang, District 1, HCMC Tel: (84-8) 3823 3777 rsv@rosablancavn.com www.rosablancavn.com Open: 9:30 - 19:00 (Closed Monday)

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362 Huynh Tan Phat, Q7; 193 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc; 55 Pham Van Thuan, Bien Hoa Tel: 097 7872 777 This cute little store has been gaining popularity amongst Vietnamese and foreigners alike. Although dinky from the outside, 2K stocks an impressive, colourful selection of purses, wallets, handbags, manbags, laptop carriers, backpacks and suitcases. If you’re hunting for a good value, last minute purchase, then 2K is well worth the visit. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND1.5 million.

ACCESSORIZE

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B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9308 9am to 10pm One of the most instantly recognisable international retail brands operating inside Vincom Center, Accessorize pulls in droves of shoppers thanks to stocking an attractive range of globally sourced products, from beachwear and children’s clothing to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses and much more. Prices vary depending on type and design but generally start from around VND200,000.

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B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Stands out from the crowd thanks to its

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77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 2701 www.ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm Looking for fun, sexy, glamorous accessories? Look no further. Dubbed one of the most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery in Vietnam, Ipa-Nima is the brainchild Hong Kong-born designer Christina Yu. The flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes definitely catch the eye. Also stocks shoes, dresses and hats. Prices range from for bags, VND1.2 million to VND2.1 million for shoes and from VND3 million for dresses.

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174 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3926 0270 www.jemma.com.vn 9am to 10pm A branch of the Vietnamese SJC company, the elegance and luxury of this space provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece. A coral necklace costs around VND900,000 while a silver ring with an angel hair stone is stocked at around VND1.5 million. A selection of bags starts from VND1.4 million.

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35 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 6291 8162 www.galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm Located next to Jaspa’s and run by jewellery and furniture designer Vivek

shop name checking a host of famous international timepiece brands means this shop is unmissable. Large and with in-your-face displays, TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. A funky plastic Swatch strap watch costs VND2 million while a classic gilded Longines strap starts at VND11 million. Also stocks high-end brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

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72 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 3519 www.tictacwatch.com 9am to 8pm The pleasant and steady sound of a watch stays the same. However, its design has evolved along with mankind. So has the TicTac Company, growing from a family watch specialist store in Ho Chi Minh City in 1978 to an elegant black-andgold designer watch showroom. Stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Baume & Mercier, Maurice Lacroix, Armand Nicolet, Mido, Hirsch and Swiza. Also provides repairs and battery changes. Time seems to never stop at Tic Tac Watches.

THERESE JEWELRY

9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3827 3756 www.theresejewelry.com 8am to 7.30pm A good place for luxury jewellery, this store is located on a tiny street in between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi. However, it stands out thanks to its décor and design with a big wooden and glass door. Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, an oval pink stone necklace, a gold plain daisy brooch, all displayed in a U-shaped wooden case. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring. Men can also find a selection of cufflinks here.

VESPA SHOP

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67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4007 Mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool and funky jewellery. There are also selections of ethnic bags, fabulous hand-made silver pieces and lacquer items. All products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000 and intricate designs cost over VND2.1 million. The staff is friendly and speak English.

Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Located inside Saigon Square, this store is perfect for anyone looking to indulge in their obsession with classic scooters. Stocking a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia from Saigon Scooter Centre, the wares include t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and much more. Rental scooters and bikes are also available.

SERGIO ROSSI

YB DESIGNS

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146AB Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Located opposite Labella, the luxurious design and appearance of this quiet shop actually intimidates passers-by. Features upmarket shoes and bags made from high-quality materials such as crocodile or python skin and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads. Prices vary but a normal pair of shoes starts from VND21 million. Credit cards (of course) are accepted.

SKECHERS

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115 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 9582 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm The award-winning SKECHERS is one of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. Now the number two footwear brand in the US with new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old, SKECHERS is fast becoming a popular choice with Vietnamese. The display is impressive with shoes in many designs and colours hanging on the walls. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

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127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3832 3904 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm Dr Martens has come a long way from the punk era of the late 1970s when its boots first gained popularity as a hard-man (or woman) accessory. Indeed, according to a recent consumer survey, eight out of 10 urban Vietnamese teenagers own a pair of sandals from this global shoe brand. Standing out thanks to its bright yellow signage, the street style and wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots that contrast from the 15-hole lace-ups from the past. But then, with Dr Martens its all about the quality of the soles.

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18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9306 9am to 10pm This airy, well-displayed and wellorganised Singaporean store has two branches in town. An elegant beige frontage stands out thanks to three large hanging posters. Sells women’s shoes, bags and accessories with a wide range of products from boots, heels and sandals to bags and clutches. Prices are acceptable for an international brand with a pair of thong sandals costing VND775,000 and leather bags starting at VND1.1 million. There is also a selection of sunglasses from VND1.1 million and belts for VND600,000.

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1B Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm It’s hard to ignore this store as its frontage is painted in a stark lemon yellow. Well-known for its selection of recycled bags made from plastic feed sacks, coming in all designs and colours, the unique product selection includes colourful quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery, scrap metal animals and other such wares. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

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wooden and neon-lit frontage and eyecatching wooden shelves and boxes used to display its Birkenstock brand products. Selling shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany made with various designs and colours, there are also similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

Chaudhary, this retail-cum-gallery space is decked out in white giving it a sleek aura of elegance. Specialises in contemporary and exclusive arty jewellery including rings, bracelets, necklaces and medals all displayed in U-shaped cases. The products are handcrafted and made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials consisting of precious metals, plastic, zinc or fiberglass. There are also exhibitions and gallery talks every month and the gallery stocks the work of guest jewellery artists. Check the website for details.

TDC SWISS WATCHES

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Tel: 3929 0685 www.tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm The wide signage on the front of the

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171 Bui Vien, Q1 www.papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts for both men and women, which are manufactured in Vietnam. Also offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. A part of the profit from each sale is given to two charity organizations, Poussieres de Vie and the Endangered Asian Species Trust. A t-shirt starts at VND189,000, a cap costs VND99,000 and a post card is only VND15,000.

ORANGE

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wheels costing anywhere between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

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174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-cum-skate store has played a large role in the current rise of local, non K-Pop street fashion thanks to its branded mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps, accessories and more. Naturally, there is also a range of skateboards on sale, with the board and

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54-56 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 0905 493148 www.ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run clothing store that also has an outlet in Nha Trang. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. Has a permanent photo gallery upstairs exhibiting the works of Thiery Beyne.

180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3. Tel: 3820 2620 152 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3836 5028 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults. Despite simple décor, Orange stands out thanks to the array of colourful products hanging on the wall including jeans, t-shirts, bags, sandals and belts. A selection of attractive hats and leather bracelets are also stocked. Prices are affordable with t-shirts selling for VND180,000 while bags go for between VND90,000 and VND600,000. Shoes start at VND400,000 a pair.

BAM SKATESHOP

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52 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3. Tel: 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Located next to Zen Plaza, this Vietnamese brand is one of the best-known shops in town for unisex clothing. Contains a wide range of apparel including jeans, tees, shirts, jackets, khaki trousers and much more, all displayed in a huge retail space. Stocks many different designs, fabrics and colours, and prices are good. A pair of men’s jeans starts at VND500,000, and VND450,000 for women, while a female shirt costs about VND300,000 and VND279,000 for a printed male tee.

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118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3824 9689 www.ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm A brother of Maxxstyle, this brand is well-known locally for both its men’s and women’s clothing. Set in a large, two-floor space, Ninomax stands out thanks to its large white-painted Renaissancestyle columns. Despite its size, a lack of adequate lighting gives the shop a slightly darker feel. Has the same prices as Maxxstyle and also stocks similar products.

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L1-08, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7493 www.8lions.com 9am to 10pm Located inconspicuously on a corner of the Vincom Center, customers have trouble finding this generically designed shop. Stocks both casual and formal wear for men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts. Prices here are also surprisingly reasonable. A male tee starts at VND750,000 while a pair of men’s jeans goes for as little as VND1.8 million. There is also a small selection of bags and belts. CASUAL WEAR

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43 Thao Dien, Q1 Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com 9am to 8pm This Scandinavian outlet is situated on the first floor of An Phu market, stocking high-quality designer garments. Carries a full range of products, from floral dresses to tight tanks starting at VND1.8 million, as well as chiffon shorts and high-waist trousers for VND2 million. Shoes, bags, belts, scarves and hats are also carried as well as larger sizes.

Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 Located on the 2nd floor of the Gaya, all the clothing here is designed and tailoredmade by renowned French-Cambodian designer Romyda Keth and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. There are plenty of colourful and sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops. If it doesn’t quite fit, alterations are available. Prices start at VND2 million for a normal party dress. Also stocks a small selection of men’s shirts.

D’BLANC

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOuSE

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22 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3839 2292 9am to 10pm This Hong Kong-brand retailer sells both male and female casual wear, including jeans, khaki trousers, tees and shirts. Although carrying various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts, there are not many products. Prices range from VND900,000 for a pair of women’s jeans and VND700,000 for a shirt. Also stocks socks and belts.

FRENCH CONNECTION

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89A Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 5164 www.d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by the modern woman with a youthful attitude, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. A complete lifestyle collection that offers a broad range of stylish looks to take women from day to night and work to the weekend. Accessories are also available. A dress costs from VND1.5 million.

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85 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3829 4004 8am to 10pm The products of this Australian fashion label are displayed on the basement floor with contemporary ranges of casual and eveningwear fused with Asian designs. The work of proprieter Hellen Holani, the apparel includes sweet floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Worth a visit with friends so you can also enjoy a cup of coffee at the in-house cafe while waiting to pick up your clothes.

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32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 0907 168910 www.yimbaderjewelry.com Situated on the same site as Snap Café, YB is a small shop with simple décor, offering all kinds of jewellery including earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings. Most of the products are handmade and crafted from various gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite. Prices are affordable, depending on the type of gemstone and design, but usually start from VND50,000. Also offers custom orders.

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147 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Even though their business card claims Marathon to be a sports fashion store, it’s actually a beachwear shop. With an orange frontage, this outlet quickly grabs the attention of passers by. Displays many products in a simple and accessible style, offering colourful beach pants, t-shirts and flip-flops for men and women, caps, and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices range from VND110,000 to VND190,000 for a t-shirt, and VND140,000 for a pair of flip-flops.

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style IT'S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSET

89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com 9am to 9pm More than just a typical clothing store, It’s Happened To Be A Closet (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a colourful range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, but doubles up as a Wi-Fi friendly café stocking an impressive array of imported food and beverages, as well as artful jewelry, handicrafts, comestibles, accessories and books. Also offers manicures and pedicures. CASUAL WEAR

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85-87 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Located opposite Sergio Rossi, the decorative style and display of this Vietnamese fashion outlet is both impressive and endearing, using strong colours like orange and wood-brown to catch the eye. Products include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. A large selection of bags is displayed on colourful and eyecatching box-shaped shelves. Also offers night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

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47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3240 7460 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3. Tel: 3240 7461 9am to 9.30pm For cosmopolitans who love genuine Levi’s Jeans, there are numerous of the self-branded stores throughout the city. Invented by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, the brand has become one of the most recognisable and imitated pieces of clothing throughout the world. The stores here offer a wide range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices vary but normally start at VND2 million for a pair of woman’s jeans. CASUAL WEAR

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40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Located near the corner of Pasteur and Ly Tu Trong, Liti harks back to Vietnam’s French colonial era. Stocking simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, other retro ware includes clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple black blouse starts at VND820,000 while an old clock costs upwards of VND3 million.

LOLITA

61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (opening Aug. 15) Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 (opening Sep. 1) Tel: 3925 9993 www.lolita.com.vn Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, offering stylish and comfortable easy-to-wear clothing for work or play

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First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm A contemporary shopping experience can be enjoyed at this fashion boutique, café and art gallery. A spacious, elegant Indochina-themed image of a 1930’s French garment factory, L’Usine stocks exclusive labels from all over the world, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons tailored to the climate of Ho Chi Minh City. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, home-wares, nick-knacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

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MAI’S SWIM JEWELLERY WEAR

132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 2733 9.30am to 9.30pm Based on the ground floor of the Continental Hotel, Mai’s feels more like an art space than a fashion shop. Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories. Her renowned signature pieces include velvet and cotton ao dai reworked for casual wear, as well as hand embroidered vintage US army and flak jackets. Also stocks a fine selection of artworks. Prices range from VND1 million to VND80 million for clothes, and VND600,000 to VND40 million depending on styles and materials.

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MANGO

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designs have a quaint, slightly Gallic feel and are made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000 and a spandex shirt goes for VND1.5 million. Also stocks shoes, sandals and a small range of accessories.

THuY NGA DESIGN

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19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1. Tel: 3820 3574 www.thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm With over 15 years in the trade, Thuy Nga is one of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam. This luxurious shop stocks both men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear. A long-sleeved women’s shirt starts from VND1 million while a male striped shirt starts from VND1.3 million. Also stocks jewellery and accessories.

uMBRELLA

MR & MRS SMITH

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm Located inside the Rex Hotel, this Parisian fashion house is one of the most popular international brands with local celebrities due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products. Chloe Saigon stocks a range of Chloe products, from low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes to Sakia bags. There is also a selection of glasses in many cool and contemporary styles and designs.

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43 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet, located in the same building as Dogma and Saigon Kitsch, sells a variety of men’s and women’s clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam for export markets in Europe, Japan and the US. All designs are brand new, delivered directly from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices (VND100,000 to VND70,000). CASUAL WEAR

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137 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, a wide range of sneakers and authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops. Crocs sandals are also displayed in the middle of the store. T-shirts range from VND400,000 to VND900,000, VND400,000 for a bag and VND700,000 for sneakers. Also stocks sunglasses starting at VND400,000. Has European-sized t-shirts. BAGS SHOES BAGS JEWELLERY

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1st Floor, Saigon Centre, Q1. Tel: 3821 5292 76D Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3824 6986 This t-shaped and turquoise-painted store is located on the first floor of Saigon Center, stocking the clothing of French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie. All the

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35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Impressively designed with exposed brick walls, Umbrella is airy and well displayed with warm lighting exuding a comfortable atmosphere. Sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices are acceptable for tailormade clothing, with a party dress starting from VND2.7 million. A blouse starts from VND990,000 and shoes, bags and belts are available. Also offers a small selection of imported funky jewellery ranging from VND1 million a piece.

TOP-END CHLOE

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RAZ GARNETT

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JuST CAVALLI

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 6290 9391 www.nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Ngan has become a well-known brand due to their distinctive tailor-made clothing and designs. Stocks mainly women’s clothes, however, men are also suitably catered for. The entire shop is designed in a sleek and luxurious black with cozy lighting emanating from a pendant light fixture. Due to the elegant and sophisticated designs and high-quality fabrics, prices are more top-end, with a party dress ranging from VND6 million to VND10 million a piece, and a normal dress starting at VND3 million. There are selections of boots, belts, scarves and jewellery boxes. Also does bespoke orders.

SONG

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NGAN

AQuAMARINE

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40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1136 96 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3824 6624 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3914 7464 B1-43 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9300 www.maisonco.com 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand is located in an impressively designed two-storey building with a black-painted neon logo outside. The entire shop is well displayed with air-conditioning and professional staff, exuding a feeling of class but not luxury. Provides a full range of clothing including jeans, tees, skirts, trousers, cardigans, leggings and much more. There are also selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million, and a pair of jeans starts at VND1.4 million. Visit the website for more Mango outlets in town. CASUAL WEAR CASUAL FORMAL WEAR WEAR FORMAL SHOES WEAR

LINGERIE & SWIMSuITS

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139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands in Vietnam, La Ha caters for both men and women. The shop is small and simply decorated but contains a comprehensive range of products with many different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini. Also stocks yoga and gym outfits. FORMAL BAGS BAGS WEAR

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Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, Triumph’s high-quality products make women look and feel good. However, because of the form of the bra cup, this brand is considered to be more suitable for European women. The bras are plentiful and come in many different colours, styles and designs, while the pants look more classic and traditional compared to other brands. Prices vary but normally a bra starts at VND600,000 and a pair of knickers goes for VND200,000. Also stocks a small selection of bikinis.

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M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 9am to 10pm Spacious, well-displayed and stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, Versace is shopping at its most lavish. The products come in many colours and fabrics, designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers. Prices are expectedly expensive; a well-tailored floral dress will set you back VND40 million. There is also a small selection of shoes and bags.

JEWELLERY

127 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm This brand is better known on Facebook than in The Backpackers’ Area. Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and two-piece bikinis starting from VND250,000. The shop has been designed well making it easy to search for the right swimsuit. Also stocks maxim dresses at VND380,000 and beach sandals at VND110,000. A small selection of earrings and sunglasses is available. Search on Facebook for ssuziswimwear for new designs and promotions.

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel next door to Chloe, this urban American brand carries international-standard clothing and a wide range of sophisticated bags placed on wooden shelves, costing from around VND6 million. There is also a glass case in the middle of the store containing other accessories.

VERSACE

JEWELLERY

SSuZI

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Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm One of the most popular underwear brands in Vietnam, the American selfbranded shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear. Prices of imported clothing are slightly more expensive compared to domestically manufactured products. A sport tee ranges from VND150,000 to VND180,000, while a pair of long johns starts at VND200,000, with a sports outfit costing VND300,000.

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JOCKEY

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M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9005 9am to 10pm Contemporary decor with large mirrors and leather sofas creates the setting for a range of products catering for both men and women. The apparel of this Italian brand varies in both design and fabric, helping shoppers identify with contrasting international fashion trends. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million. There is also a small selection of bags and scarves.

MARC JACOBS

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211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 3827 5695 www.xuanthuswimsuit.com 8am to 8.30pm Situated on the corner of Truong Dinh and Ly Tu Trong, Aquamarine is a classy branch of Xuan Thu swimwear. A small shop full of colourful products, a step inside results in a sensory overload. Offering custom orders, the stock here runs the gamut from one-piece bikinis through to twopieces as well as monokinis and various types of beachwear with different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Also stocks a small selection of scarves.

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94 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1. Tel: 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women in Ho Chi Minh City, Wacoal has more than 10 shops around town. However, there is a lack of product variety and the designs are quite classic. Compared to Triumph, prices are quite expensive with a bra ranging from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while

pants start at VND250,000 per pair. No swimsuits. Staff are friendly, helpful and enthusiastic.

SPORTSWEAR SPORTS STREET

A large amount of fine and affordable sportswear can be found around town, however, there are two main streets stocking sportswear in the centre; Huyen Tran Cong Chua, between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Du in District 1; and Pham Hong Thai, between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Loi. You can find everything for sports on these streets, from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma at ultra affordable prices through to the real thing.

u.BEST HOuSE

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163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1. Tel: 3920 9187 9am to 11pm With its wooden frontage, this shop feels and looks like an army disposal store, with a comprehensive range of products, including flashlights, binoculars, climbing clothing, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags and even underwear and cycling gear. If you’re after any products related to travelling, then this store is a must.

TAILORS HOANG DuNG

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270 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 2240 5990 8am to 8pm Located on the corner of Bui Vien and Cong Quynh, this store offers a wide range of tailor-made clothing with all designs and styles, from vests to ao dais, and skirts and trousers. Customers can either bring their own fabric or ask the tailor to choose for them. A normal pair of shirts can be made in two days. Prices are acceptable, with a vest costing around VND700,000 and VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including the price of the fabrics. Guarantees that all tailor-made clothing will fit.

MANDARINA

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171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 5267 9am to 7pm One of the most difficult things for foreigners living in Vietnam is finding the correct shoes size. Mandarina is a good place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes. They can even make shoes in 24 hours for around VND1 million. Simply choose the design and colour and they will take care of the rest. There is also a wide range of ready-to-wear shoes, from sandals and peep toes to slingbacks and boots. Stocks a small selection of bags, too. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000 depending on style and materials.

T&V TAILOR

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39 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 3824 4556 9am to 11pm Run by two Vietnamese sisters, Tricia and Verona, this shop offers tailor-made clothing for both men and women with the latest and trendiest designs and styles. Stocks a wide range of fabrics, which is helpful for those that don’t know where to purchase it separately. Find something on the rack, get measured up then return a day or two later and pick up your custom-made garment. Alterations can be made upon request. An ao dai costs from VND1.6 million and a suit starts at VND4 million including fabric.

INTERIORS ART APRICOT GALLERY

50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy

and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art. Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars. Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

DOGMA

1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propaganda-printed tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

GALLERY

244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

GALERIE QuYNH

65 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamesethemed stereotypes available elsewhere

in town. Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

NHu Y

257 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers. Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHuONG MAI

213C Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists. Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a fourfloor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODuCTION STREET – BuI VIEN, Q1

Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of

style

other artists. Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

TMG

234 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and well-organised space offers a comprehensive range of products. An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

CRAFT EM EM

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-made-clothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

MEKONG CREATIONS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Tel: 2210 3110 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-creations.org A project of the NGO Mekong Plus designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. All products are locally produced, including paper mache, ratten, bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. Bamboo vases from VND350,000 and rag ranges from VND400,000.

NGuYEN FRERES

2 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house. Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

NINH KHuONG EMBROIDERY

83 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA

209 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above. Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

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MEKONG QuILTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Tel: 2210 3110 64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Tel: 3914 2119 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-quilts.org A charity organization helping poor women in rural areas, all products are handmade with a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within 5-6 weeks. Also stocks accessories such as aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

FuRNITuRE & HOMEWARES AuSTIN HOME

20 Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.

A&W FINE FuRNITuRE

Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs. Their products are stocked at AA Deco with Their products are stocked at Nha Xinh showroom.

BELLAVITA

The Crescent Parcel CR1-07/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by well-known brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware. Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT

68-70 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My HungTel: 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks. Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CALLIGARIS

4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interior-furnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

CHI LAI

53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3. Tel: 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

CLIC CLAC SOFA

327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock includes many covers in various colours and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

DIABOLO

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

ESTHETIC

11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-to-order furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

FEELING TROPIC

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

THE FuRNITuRE HOuSE

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4640/4643 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery. Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

GAYA

1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive postWorld War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linen-embroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

HAFELE SHOWROOM

46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

LIVING & GIVING

59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors. Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

THE LOST ART

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more. Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN

152 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3925 3648 www.verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custom-made items.

VIVACOLOuR

Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailormade environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand

and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

KITCHEN & BATHROOM CNR. PASTEuR & NGuYEN DINH CHIEu, Q1

It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

LIGHTING CAO DONG

Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1Tel: 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand. Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO

51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

LIGHT HOuSE

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials. Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQuE

98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 4634 www.mosaiquedecoration.com 9am to 9pm This eye-popping lime green-painted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

VEKTOR LED

117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.VektorLED.com Vektor LED provide LED base replacement lights and T8 tubes that are easy to install in current sockets. Using green materials (no mercury or other toxins), these lights provide an energy saving of 50% against normal Fluorescent lights, with 10-15 times the lifespan of normal lights.

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS CAMERA STREET

Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH

28 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS

Tel: 0903 035 271 www.silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, professional, true HD and extremely small. The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

LE Vu NIKON

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The

NHA XINH

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung. Tel: 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials. From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs. Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

THE FuRNITuRE WAREHOuSE

3B Tong Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6657 0788 www.thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and

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style

Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000. Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

MAT RONG VANG

81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0999 www.cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices. With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of wellknown brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

Fitting & Services Centre, 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.goldendragoneye.com Ctrack GPS vehicle solutions. A world leader in real time monitoring and data collection, Ctrack GPS has operations in 56 countries and have more than 20 years of hands on experiences in solutions related to GPS and management logistics. Juotec T-eye Dashboard Cameras record events outside and inside vehicles with high-res 1.3Mb cameras.

PHAM THE

11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony. They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

COMPuTERS & ACCESSORIES COMPuTER STREETS

Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3825 7750 9am to10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HuNG VuONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQuARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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CARTRIDGE WORLD

FPT ELEAD COMPuTER

236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 7300 6666 www.elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million. Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG

Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 3925 8999 www.hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million. In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customer-service.

LONG BINH COMPuTER

50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 0699 www.longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers. Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG Vu

125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGuYEN THI THANH TAM

42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1. Tel: 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more

like a stationary shop than a mere CD shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN

428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3818 1188 www.tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

THuAN MY CO.

227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3838 9164 www.thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

MOBILE PHONES GIA KIEN

352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3868 3733 www.giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS

The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE

382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3526 5838 www.thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG

182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292 www.thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and

specifications. The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices. Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A

328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3863 3333 www.vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

GROCERIES BAKERIES CAKEWALK

84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 6295 9087 www.cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRuMBS

54 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic– based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONuTS

33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING

30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com www.harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

SIMRANS

SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com www.simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate. No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

SESAME BAKERY

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 or 0918 445311 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOuS LES JOuRS

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

VOELKER

39 Thao Dien, Q2 www.voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

CATERING Au PARC CATERING

Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME

100 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Tel: 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western– fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

LE REuNION DES MARMITES

Tel: 08 6274 0647 www.lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more. Visit website for full menu.

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE

Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

QuAN BuI

Tel: 01286 252 351 / 3602 2241 (Mr Danh) High quality Vietnamese food at reasonable prices for the home or workplace. Caters for private parties, receptions, office celebrations, and conferences. Choose from an extensive Vietnamese menu (crispy spring rolls, chicken fried rice, sautéed prawns and cashew nuts) or mix and match with Western cuisine (canapés, dips, cocktail sandwiches, fresh tropical fruit). Efficient delivery, all equipment and waiter service provided.

REX HOTEL CATERING

141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3829 2185 With the same team that feeds the guests at the Rex Hotel, prospective clients can be sure that the party they plan will be in good hands.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

41 Vo Truong Toan, D.2, HCMC Tel: 3898 9286 info@saigoncateringco.com www.saigoncateringco.com With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals. Experienced with every conceivable style, from the smallest dinner party to a standup cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow, marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to

your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

KITCHEN – QuALITY FROZEN READY MEALS

84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128 info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget. Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

YES! ICE–CREAM HOME DELIVERY SERVICE Tel: 3844 6099 A delivery service offering banana–on a stick, Öla premium ice–cream & frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice–cream. All produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

GROCERIES ANNAM GOuRMET MARKET

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

AuSSIE–FRuITS

45 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Q1 Tel: 6291 8126 www.aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109 www.classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find

Tel: 0974 444 001 www.kitchen.net.vn Kitchen provides an alternative to takeaways with home-cooked frozen ready meals in biodegradable packaging. Beef, pork, chicken and vegetarian meals cost between VND140,000-VND220,000 for 2-3 portions. Order online at www.kitchen. net.vn. Free delivery.

KIM HAI BuTCHERS

73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally– sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer. Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer. Open seven days a week.

LE COCHON D’OR

32 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

OPERATION: TEA

Tel: 01693 583563 www.operationteavietnam.com Offering a line high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and tea ware. Tea tasting events are conducted by an experienced tea infusionist, who is available for private tastings as well.

PHuONG HA

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA

60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers. Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

THE OASIS

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 (inside Snap Cafe) Tel: 3744 6432 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2449 The Oasis grocery store and gourmet shop

LA DORéE

216 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 65 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, La Dorée serves up a variety of colourful and traditional French breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds, including baguettes, fougasse, and dieppois and montagnard sandwiches. Desserts include passion cheese, tiramisu and chocolate mouse.

NHu LAN

64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

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generation v was established in Hanoi three years ago and offers imported and local delicatessen such as cold cuts and cheeses from around the world, organic vegetables and many other homemade, artisanal readyto-eat food. Specialties include homemade lasagnas, soups, raviolis, pasta and sausages.

VEGGY’S

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

LIQuOR & WINE ANNAM GOuRMET SHOP

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 www.annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

ELECTRONICS SuPERMARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day. You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson. In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information. CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET 590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm GIA THANH 975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE 133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm NGuYEN KIM 63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm THIEN HOA 277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa.vn 8am to 10pm

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BACCHuS CORNER

158D Pasteur, Q1 www.bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

74E Hai Ba Trung,Q1 Tel: 5404 3575 www.daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE

GENERATION V

LISTINGS BABY EQuIPMEANT 132 CHILDREN'S BOOKS 132 CLASSES & SPORTS 132 CLOTHING 133

BABY EQuIPMENT BABY

66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10, Tel: 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

CHILDREN’S SQuARE

LE TONNEAu

1B Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital with reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

15D Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3824 6597 Overlooking the wine store on the first floor is the VIP room upstairs which caters to club members and those who take their wine seriously. Special wine–tasting every Friday. Call Patrick for more details (0903102418).

RED APRON

22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

TAPAS WINE CO LTD

2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com An importer of Spanish wines, Tapas delivers directly to your door. A growing list of products includes wines from the northern and central regions of Spain such as Elciego and Rioja Alavesa. Their website features their full portfolio complete with reviews.

270 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 2841 Pampers and Huggies nappies, baby bottles, bibs, buggies and other necessities.

ME OI

MOM & BABY

230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3, Tel: 3932 1611 Closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

CHILDREN’S BOOKS FAHASA

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odd ends.

PHuONG NAM

1st Flr, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

CLASSES & SPORTS ALPHA GALLERY

178 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

10 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3822 4946 Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber runs six– week printmaking classes for children and adults, starting from the very beginning and working through to final prints made from copper plates. Other printing methods are also addressed.

VINE CELLAR – CASA HABANA

DANCENTER

THE WAREHOuSE

41 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2284 www.vine–group.com The wine store represents hundreds of award – winning wines from every part of the globe and stocks an exclusive collection of spirits. Also, Casa Habana – Cigar Shop provides 100% authentic Cuban cigars, and luxury cigar accessories.

VINIFERA

15C7 Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

VINO WINE SHOP

74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4490/4340 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and more classes of all levels at this modern dance studio.

GuITAR AND PIANO CLASSES

Mr Anh Vu Phi, another conservatory graduate now teaching at the International School, offers private tutoring in guitar and piano in Vietnamese and English for VND200,000 per 45–minute session. He has 30 years experience teaching youngsters, and after a stint in Spanish city Seville now offers classes in flamenco, call him at 091 387 7884.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 (gallery and workshop), 88 Ho Tung Mau (FLOW – permanent exhibition), Tel: 0903 955780 hk.painter@gmail.com helenekling@yahoo.com www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings EDuCATION 133 ENTERTAIMENT 134 KIDS' PARTIES 135 MEDICAL 135 creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults.

KINDERMuSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDuCATION CENTER

Ground Floor, Crescent Residence 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 www.kindermusik.edu.vn Kindermusik is the world’s premier Music, Movement & English language program for children from birth to 7 years. Each unit’s weekly lessons promote early literacy and English language acquisition, social skills and more. The learning fun continues with Kindermusik@Home materials, including music from class, musical activities and story time. Kindermusik programs align with standards and/or requirements for the USA, UK, EU, TESOL Pre-K and IB Primary Years Program; and have been adopted by the National Teachers College of Ho Chi Minh City. Enrolments include a family activity book or digital magazine, along with high-quality CDs or digital music downloads, containing a variety of musical styles and genres. There are over 6,000 Kindermusik Educators in 67 countries.

LIFETIME SPORTS

Tel: 0909 269511, mb@michaelbelmes.com www.michaelbelmes.com Group swimming, tennis and golf lessons run by Michael Belmes, the former Head Coach of the Vietnam National Polo Team and the Phillipines Elite Development Group of Swimmers. Prices start from around VND120,000. A Saigon Masters Swim Club is also being formed. Visit the website for more info.

generation v RuBBA DuCKIES SWIM SCHOOL

Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years at Somerset, Q1; AIS, Q2: APSC, Q2; Sherwood Residence, Q3 & classes now available in Q7. Run by Elizabeth Hollins.

SAIGON MOVEMENT

Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Offering a variety of classes for movement development for ages two to 11 in An Phu and Phu My Hung. Saigon Movement aims to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports– based activities. Contact Abbie Klein for more info. 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com www.divevietnam.com Scuba Diving Adventures in a Swimming Pool for 8 + 9 year olds. 15 week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam.

RMIT VIETNAM

702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn The venue for a large number of sporting activities for children of all ages. Sports include baseball, softball, football (soccer) and more.

SAIGON PONY CLuB

42 Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn the correct riding technique from the three part–time teachers. Half–hour lessons with the engaging Amaury cost VND200,000.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels for VND150,000 a session.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL

STAGEMAGIC

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Q2, Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Steffen Christophe teaches introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard, and voice. With a diploma in guitar and singing from 10 years spent at the Geneva Conservatory, lessons at his home come from 25 years experience playing – one hour private tuition cost VND500,000 for students aged four to 14, and VND550,000 for those over (scb_ music77@hotmail.com).

priced, with friendly English–speaking staff on hand to help.

creative, academic and musical activities and languages. Scholarships available.

TAE KWON DO

SMALL IS BEAuTIFuL

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. One class a week costs VND160,000 per week; two classes a week are VND800,000 and three classes a month are VND1 million. There’s an additional fee for non–members. Contact Mr. Phuc on 0903 918149.

Tel: 0903 145087, www.stagemagic.biz The city’s first stage school, offering youngsters between seven and 19 the opportunity to develop their acting and singing skills. The ultimate aim is to put on public performances at the end of each

227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, www.smallisb.com With the belief that each child is a prince or princess, the store offers an exclusive selection of brand names in clothing, accessories and creative toys. Creative toy brand names such as Playmobil, Vilac and Trousselier are on display and clothes by international designers such as Sonia Rykiel, Petit Bateau, Baby Dior and Kiwi are also available. As an added touch, the shop has been designed especially for children so that they feel at home.

246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com Three campuses offer a British–style education to moret than 1,500 children aged from two to 18. A centre for the UK Cambridge International Examinations boards, it is also an IB World School, delivering the IB Diploma Programme.

EDuCATION ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

SAIGON SEAL TEAM

Tel: 0862 819790 info@SaigonSportsAcademy.com www.SaigonSportsAcademy.com Saigon Sports Academy offer coaching for children aged 4–16 years and private lessons for children and adults. They currently offer soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming. They have a team of International coaches offering training for beginners all the way up to professional levels. Please check the website for details. Also offers a youth soccer league that runs on Sundays 2pm–6pm in District 7. Call 0932 153502.

MINH NGuYEN PIANO BOuTIQuE

term. Cost for a 10–week term begins at VND2.1 million.

WATERCOLOuR WORKSHOPS WITH LINDSAY ERDMAN

Tel: 0932 102378 www.lindsayerdman.net Canadian watercolour artist, Lindsay Erdman hosts Saturday afternoon workshops for painters of all levels. Work with still life, live models and flora while learning or refining a variety of watercolour techniques. Workshops held on a beautiful terrace in district 10. Week-long workshops are also available.

2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel: 84 8 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn, www.theabcis.com Founded in 1995, this international school of 800+ students drawn from 32 national backgrounds is served by 80+ UK expatriate teachers and 70+ support staff. It is the only international school in the city whose curriculum is wholly based on UK standards for all pupils from age two yrs (Playgroup) to 18yrs (Pre–University matriculation). Students graduate with IGCSE’s & A levels awarded by Cambridge University examinations board.

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

CLOTHING 123 BABY CLOTHING

226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on good–quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

BELLI BLOSSOM

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3822 6615 4th Floor, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel:5413 7574 www.belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom is a shop catering to moms and babies stocking imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and more. Available brands include Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends and Gingersnaps.

Du LuNDI Au SAMEDI

17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 3853 The emphasis here is on attractive and unique designs for the very young, encompassing clothing, pyjamas and bedding. A great place to browse for some memorable items.

THANH THuY

93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 4893 There are clothes for all ages in here, mostly made of cotton and reasonably–

East-West Highway, An Phu, D2, Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior school and a range of extracurricular activities. The new campus provides exceptional learning and sports facilities. Offers international curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

AuSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Xi Early Childhood Centre, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 3744 6960 Early Childhood & Primary School, Early Childhood - Lotus 1, Primary - Cherry Blossom 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior School (Head Office), EastWest Highway, Q2, Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com A co-educational day school with dedicated early childhood, primary, middle and senior school campuses. An IB World School, students follow the PYP and MYP curriculum. Senior students follow the IGCSE – Cambridge A Levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies GRADE 12 Curriculum (UNSW). Focus on academic excellence, international student body, and exceptional facilities in quiet residential settings, qualified expatriate staff, range of co-curricular sport,

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh Tel: 5412 3456 www.cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers co-educational classes from Kindergarten to grade 12 for local and foreign students. Talented, certified teachers implement the awarded Ontario curriculum to create a studentcentered learning environment. Focuses on academic achievement, character education and global thinking with a commitment to the arts and languages (Vietnamese and French). Students graduate with the Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognised by universities worldwide.

COMPASS EDuCATION

15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3820 3302 / 3820 3202 information@compass.edu.vn www.compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education is a English language education company that offers a range of courses for teachers, students and managers, corporate and teacher training, nanny and teacher placements and career counseling.

GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh, Tel: 7300 7257 A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. A language programme is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MuSIC OF VIETNAM

Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3827 7008/3827 7008 info@gymboreeclasses.com.vn www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been foster-

PARKLANDS COuNTRY CLuB

628A An Binh, Q2, Tel: 3898 9788 pcc@parklandvn.com Provides a range of leisure activities including sports and movie nights for children of all ages. Participation requires membership of this well–known country club. Email for more details.

PIANO CLASSES

Tel: 0122 5636 682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Offers a full range of piano lessons, from basic to advanced ones such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin. Suitable for kids of all ages.

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generation v

ing creativity and confidence in children aged 0 - 5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in over 30 countries, making them a leader in early childhood development programs. Recognized for their approach to parent involvement, their programmes encourage participation in, and understanding of, each child’s development.

NOAH’S CLuB

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY

PERFOMING ARTS ACADEMY OF HCMC

28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu, Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com ISHCMC, located in District 2, has been successfully graduating students with an IB Diploma to high-profile overseas colleges and universities since 1999. ISHCMC is the only fully authorized IB World School in HCMC, providing an International Baccalaureate curriculum (PYP, MYP & IBDP) to all students, ages 2 to 18. It is fully accredited by the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of School and Colleges (NEASC).

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL

92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 2222 7799, www.issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American standardbased curriculum taught by certified North American teachers. ISSP started the academic year of 2010-2011 with more than 100 students enrolled from 20 different nationalities. A brand new single purpose-built campus and state-of-art facility caters for nursery through to grade 5 (sixth grade added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese are welcome. Unique features include Mandarin language classes, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

THE LITTLE GENIuS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten has joined Sisterhood with school in USA and uses same curriculum. It is the Kindergarten with the best facilities and environment compare to any similar size school in Vietnam

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn School following the Montessori methodology for children from two to six years old, offering natural learning environments to complement the child’s natural sense of engagement with their surroundings. Also offers extra–curricular activities for children from three to 12.

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3 Duong So 4, Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien Ward, Q2. Tel/Fax: 3744 4709 noahandmum@yahoo.com.vn Children’s club for toddlers and children from 18 months to 6 years old offering daycare, a toddlers’s club in the morning, an afterschool club in the afternoon for 3 to 6 year olds and art and swimming classes.

SAIGON KIDS EDuCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE

104A Tran Quoc Toan, Q3, Tel: 3932 5579 www.saigonkidscentre.com Has evolved over 10 years to create a creative learning environment through play for children between the ages of two and six. There are 12 teachers, and the school limits numbers to 85 to ensure personal attention for all the children.

schools. An independent and private college preparatory school with an individualized programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a US-based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

VAS

Tel: 0862819679, info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in piano, guitar, drums, singing, flute, clarinet, and saxophone by real musicians and experienced teachers. ABRSM Qualified. Group dance and drama sessions also available. Plus new vacancies in our popular Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3–5.

SAIGON SOuTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high school, emphasising state–of–the–art facilities, a multi–cultural student environment, and a commitment to a well–rounded education at all levels.

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: 3933 3655 www.vas.edu.vn VAS is one of the leading schools for teaching and learning development in Vietnam, providing from programmes from Kindergarten to Secondary school education. In line with their mission to educate an elite young generation with confidence to integrate into the world’s education, VAS also aims to develop its human resources by creating a professional and friendly working environment with attractive benefits for teachers.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

VIETNAMESE LANGuAGE STuDIES SAIGON (VLS)

74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Q7, Tel: 3773 3171 admission@rissaigon.edu.vn www.rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides British/International education with native English teachers and state–of–the–art facilities. Students from more than twenty–five nationalities from age two to 18. RISS is an IB World School, a member of CIS and IPC, and an approved centre for IGCSE.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL COLLEGE (SIC)

21K Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0938 371 760 www.sic.edu.vn An Australian-Vietnamese government project, SIC caters for Years 10, 11 & 12 and is under the Curriculum Council of Western Australia. All subjects taught in English by foreign teachers. Inspectors from Australia control teaching standards. Students graduate with the internationally recognised Australian Certificate of Education (WACE), which gives direct entry to all Australian universities. Fees up to VND142,702,000 per year.

Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2 Tel: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn The school offers a British primary curriculum, supported by the Cambridge International Primary Program, as well as an integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. The school focuses on providing a stimulating learning environment, and a value priced education. A brand new 8,000 sq. meter eco-friendly campus, the largest of any primary school in Ho Chi Minh City, includes a pool, running stream and more.

SMARTKIDS

1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3519 4236, www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre provides kindergarten and pre–school education for children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM

177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3519 2223 Fax: 3519 2224 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn info@tasvietnam.edu.vn A fully-licensed American school programme designed by administrators and educators experienced in the development and operation of American and international

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Ben Nghe Ward, Q1 Tel: 3910 0168 / 3910 3266 contact@vlstudies.com R4-28 (Hung Phuoc 2) Le Van Them, Q7 Tel: 3602 6694 info@vlstudies.com www.vlstudies.com This professional school has built a good reputation over 18 years. VLS offers set and tailor-made courses for all abilities in high quality facilities with time flexibility. Lessons can be taken either at school or at the learner’s office and home.

ENTERTAINMENT DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3825 7750 Diamond Plaza features a top–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options, with KFC and Pizza Hut.

PARKSON PLAZA

X–ROCK CLIMBING

503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2, Tel: 3402 2542 www.xrockclimbing.com. X–Rock Climbing is the city’s first venture of this kind. The facilities for children are excellent (children under 12 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian) at this 26–metre–tall wall, where you (or they) can climb up or abseil down. A day pass costs VND200,000

KIDS’ PARTIES A2

196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON

Tel: 0909 052502, dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

THE BALLOON MAN

100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn If you don’t know how to cook jelly, never mind, because The Caterers do. Although mainly focused on grown–up events, they will cater for kids’ parties as well.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Three paediatricians make up the

childcare speciality at this well–equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped paediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Operating in Vietnam since 1989, this clinic is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. An internationally experienced general medical and pediatric team will meet the preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs of your child. Emergency cases managed 24 hours a day. House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL

3 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Up–to–date well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care, alignment and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 3910 4545 info@victoriavn.com www.victoriavn.com Victoria Healthcare is especially committed to paediatrics, and its services for children include general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3827 7614 Over at Parkson Plaza there is a large selection of arcade games to choose from along with a bowling alley, with a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

WATER PuPPET THEATRE

History Museum, 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3823 4582 Much more cultured than malls and a sure–fire winner with children, is the enchanting Water Puppet Theatre, devoted to this traditional art which the Vietnamese called mua roi nuoc.

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Hanoi

ThE SOUNDMAN / A SUM Of MANY PArTS

The Soundman Words by Kaitlin Rees. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

guyen Anh Tan has many names. Mr. Tan, Papa Tan and Tan Hang Bac are just some. He’ll write them in Chinese for you, unprompted, just to clarify. He’s probably got more nicknames, too, that surface once you hang around long enough. He also has many students. As a drum instructor, he currently sees about 20 students a week, ranging in age from six to 60, (not including the 78-year-old man he once helped rock out). Tan sees many bands. His home doubles as a practice studio with three rooms for rent, which are almost always fully booked each week with the over 20 bands that come in and out. Of the bands that rent practice space, about two-thirds are Vietnamese and one-third are foreign, from Japan, Korea, Eastern Europe and America. He has only one price for his students and bands, though, and that price hasn’t changed much since he started teaching in 1983 and renting out his space in 2000. He has also played in many bands. From his first gig in 1976 at the Youth Theatre when he had to step in for the drummer who was too drunk to play, to the early days of Hanoi’s most famous rock band Dai Bang Trang (White Eagle) in the late 1980s. From his collaborations with Hanoi’s leading jazz musician Quyen Van Minh to the wedding party disco he played “to survive, to feed my passion and feed my family”, it would seem that Tan has touched, in some form or other, every note in the history of post-war Hanoi rock. But what Tan has the most of is the “human friendship and passion” he describes as integral to making music. He is a man who wants to be around people, a person who wants to chat, who’s quick to crack a joke and laugh at it, and who wants everyone else to as well. He’s a man that wants to feel, deeply and genuinely, that

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which his students and his friends wish to express through their music.

If You Build It… “In the late 1970s and 1980s, playing music and just picking up an instrument was a luxury,” he explains. “It was very underground.” At the time there was little exposure to music from overseas and no technology. For music lovers such as Tan, it was difficult to share his interest with other people.

“In the late 1970s and 1980s, playing music and just picking up an instrument was a luxury,” he explains. “It was very underground”

“I thought the only way to approach some kind of community and always be around music was to teach people,” he continues. “I opened a space so people would come and keep doing it.” Between 1995 and 2005 Tan organized and promoted national rock concerts that brought bands from the north, middle and south of Vietnam all around the country. It was a struggle. Gaining permission for the performances was tough until 2000, when

the Ministry of Culture organised a huge concert to celebrate the new millennium. “The part for live music was lacking in interesting stuff for youngsters,” says Tan. “So they called me for help.” It worked. He brought six bands to the August Revolution Square (opposite Ly Thai To statue) for what turned into a legendary show. The bands played from 12am to 6am. “Since that time, I feel like rock is not underground any more,” he says. “It’s easier for it to breath now; people watch it officially and go to it with an easy feeling. It’s like a kind of door opened.”

Heart and Soul Arguably more than anyone else, Tan has seen and felt the changing landscape of rock music in Hanoi. His home, formerly on Hang Bac (hence the nickname Tan Hang Bac) and now in an alley off of Ton Duc Thang, is a hub of music, full of people playing it and talking about it. Old-timers come around to shoot the breeze, nascent musicians come to pick up their first drumsticks. At 54 years old, having lived through those difficult post-war years when every concert was a struggle, it would be understandable for Tan to look down on the younger generation of musicians who have it easier today. And though he is wary of those with “perspectives mutated by desire” and those who “are distracted by the shadows of art and rock music itself”, there is not a glimmer of jadedness on his face when asked about the future of rock music in this city. “People have different talents and different senses of music,” he says, “but I love to feel the good vibe from the youngsters.” And it’s no wonder. When Tan is around, good vibes seem to be contagious.

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A Sum of Many Parts Hanoi’s oldest camera repair shop has been worked by four generations of one family. But it’s not just a family business. It’s an obsession. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Francis Roux

or many Hanoians, there is a common theme that runs through their childhood memories. It’s a theme that merges the recollection of playing with other kids in the neighbourhood with that of making a living — helping their parents run the family shops, witnessing their parents’ daily work, and growing up alongside the evolution of the family business. There are a multitude of reasons why many family-run businesses are passed down from generation to generation in Hanoi. This induction at such an early age is certainly one of them. Such traditions of the son or the daughter following the footsteps of the father or the

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mother are most prevalent in the Old Quarter, a mercantile area that developed with the growth of trade after the founding of Hanoi. But move south of Ho Guom (Hoan Kiem Lake) to the newer area around Pho Hue, and the same generational types of businesses can also be found, even with the disruption caused by 30 years of war. Take, for example, Phung Khac Khoan. Although known best as Fabric Street, here you will come across the oldest camera repair shop in Hanoi.

Father and Son Located in the middle of this bustling street, Van Phuong, Ngoc Long, Ngoc Cuong: Camera Repair (15 Phung Khac Khoan, Hai

Ba Trung) is almost impossible to miss. Now run by 70-year-old Nguyen Van Phuong, the grandson of the shop’s founder, the fourth generation, Phuong’s two sons, are also part of the business. These days, rather than doing the repairs, though, you’ll most likely to see Phuong sitting at the tea stand out front. His wife opened it years ago to welcome customers — Phuong now tends to use it as a consultation space. With more than 50 years in the trade, and even with the transformation brought on by the advent of digital, Phuong’s experience means he can tell most problems that may befall a camera. After discussing the issue

with potential customers, he sends them upstairs to his two sons in the workshop. It’s quite an ascent and some may move on to the upper level with reluctance — the wooden stairs are so steep and narrow that they just fit a normal foot-size. The house complete with the stairwell was constructed in the early 20th century. They have not been rebuilt since. “I started learning from my father how open and fix a camera when I was 16 years old,” wheezes Phuong. His lungs are now frail and he has to stop after every sentence to breathe. “But the house and camera repairing business have accompanied me my whole life. My childhood was filled with camera parts scattered about the room, and I started learning from my father how to open and fix a camera when I was 16 years old. I grew up here, started my own family here, and now my two sons proudly continue my career. For 50 years I have fixed cameras and for 50 years photography has totally engrossed me.” However, sitting all day in a 15sqm room has its down side — it’s stuff and claustrophobic, and for Phuong it has always had the potential to make him go crazy. So, it’s not just repairs that have made his life tick, but travel, and capturing special moments on film, too. Enjoying the “beauty of life outside” and taking mainly portrait photos have helped him “keep [his] spirit up”.

“Whenever I can seize a moment, I feel a sense of indescribable joy,” he says. “[Over the years] I have added priceless contributions to my Hanoi collection of images. In photography I consider each person to be an actor or actress. However, they’re different to stage actors. These are people playing a role in real life. That explains why the majority of my photographs are portraits.”

Piecing it Together Considered by many to be the “central hospital” for cameras in the capital, the fame of Phuong’s repair shop has spread beyond the borders of Hanoi. Customers from as far afield as Germany and the US have frequented his premises, and he has been lucky enough to fix cameras of all types, even “antique cameras made in Germany or France 80 or 90 years ago” — at present he’s fixing an early Rolleiflex, a German-made camera that was the first to use medium format roll-film. He’s also been written about in the overseas press — “I have kept the articles… as certificates for my hard work”. Move up to the second floor and you wonder how so much has been achieved with so little space. The tiny workshop is home to nearly 100 cameras and many more boxes filled with parts. Yet unlike other similar workshops in the city, it is clean, well-

organised and tidy. The camera parts and repairing tools, both imported and salvaged from cameras deemed to be beyond repair, are neatly classified into different boxes. It is the parts that are the nuts and bolts of the trade. Without them, many a camera may have a shortened lifespan. “Often customers have to wait for days as some parts are imported from other countries,” explains Phuong. “Sometimes there are seriously damaged or broken cameras, which cost us a lot to repair, more than their value. In these cases, the customers will often sell them to us. We then open them up and keep them for parts.” Yet, it’s not just physical, camera parts that are the lifeblood of this business and help to hold it together. It’s the human element, too, the sense of a whole family, all four generations coming together like a jigsaw — and this is despite both sons graduating from university and both sons having had the option of other work. But for this family, the camera repair trade is infectious. According to Phuong, even one of its youngest members is sporting the correct traits — the favourite play objects of his three-year-old grandchild are toy cameras and defunct cameras. All bringing hope to the old man that generation four will become generation number five and maybe even generation number six.

August 2012 Word | 139

Tiêng viêt thực khách bí ẩn / chốn thần tiên

THuC KHÁCH BÍ ÂN

Với nhà phê bình mới, liệu nhà hàng hải sản đông khách Song Ngư làm vui lòng hay thất vọng vị chuyên gia mới của chúng tôi trong bài viết đầu tiên này?

Song Ngu 70-72 Sương nguyệt Ánh, Q1 Đt: 3832 5017

aån beâ töi thûúâng chûáng kiïën caãnh töi vúái voã töm ngêåp dûúái chên möîi khi coá dõp, nïn töi khaá hûáng thuá khi nhêån baâi àaánh giaá nhaâ haâng haãi saãn Song Ngû. ÚÃ thaânh phöë naây, coá hai caách àïí thûúãng thûác haãi saãn – möåt laâ úã nhûäng chiïëc baân inox ngoaâi vóa heâ hay laâ vö nhûäng nhaâ haâng cao cêëp vúái baân ghïë àûúåc phuã khùn trang trñ mùæc tiïìn. Song Ngû laâ núi thuöåc vïì daång sau. Trong khi hêìu hïët nhûäng traãi nghiïåm cuãa töi laåi chùæc chùæn nùçm úã daång trûúác, caái thûåc àún phong phuá àûúåc àûa ra khi nhoám chuáng töi ngöìi xuöëng laâ möåt khúãi àêìu töët àeåp so vúái caách goåi moán bùçng viïåc chó choã maâ töi àaä quen thuöåc. Trêìn nhaâ cao àeåp ngay phña löëi vaâo cuâng vö söë cêy cöëi xung quanh àem laåi möåt caãm giaác àêìy hûáa heån. Tröng nhû chuáng töi àïën möåt núi àïí coá nhûäng traãi nghiïåm rêët truyïìn thöëng. Vaâ úã möåt mûác àöå naâo àoá, noá seä chuáng minh laâ thêåt. Mùåt khaác, nhûäng àöì sûá àûúåc sún veä tó mó vaâ caác nûä phuåc vuå qua laåi taåo möåt caãm giaác thuêìn chêët Viïåt. Tuy nhiïn, lúáp sún tûúâng vaâ hoåa tiïët kyâ laå cuãa nhaâ haâng laåi àem möåt chuát caãm giaác nhû trong phim Mùåt Naå Zorro thêåt sûå gêy böëi röëi. Mùåc duâ möëi àe doåa tûâ Antonio Banderas (nhên vêåt chñnh trong Mùåt Naå Zorro) coá thïí xuêët hiïån àêu àoá tûâ trïn cao vaâ àaánh àöí cheán nûúác tûúng, chuáng töi bùæt àêìu bûäa töëi vúái cua löåt söët trûáng muöëi. Quen vúái viïåc moán cua löåt thûúâng àûúåc tñnh theo àôa vúái con lúán con nhoã gioân gioân khaác nhau, chuáng töi khaá ngaåc nhiïn khi nhaâ haâng laåi tñnh theo àún võ con, nhûng may mùæn thay, nûúác söët loâng àoã trûáng muöëi laåi laâm cho mêëy con cua löåt sûå beáo böí chaâo múâi vaâ laâm caãm giaác ngêëu nghiïën theâm ùn. Baãn thên

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cua löåt coá kïët cêëu tuyïåt, nhûng hûúng võ khöng nöíi bêåt bùçng moán nûúác söët vaâ biïën mêët sau miïëng cùæn thûá hai hay thûá ba.

hoàn thành đơn Giản

Trong khi chúâi moán chñnh àûúåc mang ra, möåt nhoám nhaåc syä nhaåc Viïåt Nam truyïìn thöëng bùæt àêìu trònh diïîn cho thûåc khaách. Caá nhên töi thñch nhaåc Viïåt Nam cöí àiïín möåt chuát vaâ nhûäng êm thanh traái ngûúåc nhau cuãa nhûäng duång cuå vang trong phoâng laâ möåt chêëm phaá àeåp, thêåm chñ nïëu thónh thoaãng êm lûúång coá húi quaá. Chuáng töi khaá yïu thñch viïåc quyïët àõnh kiïím tra khaã nùng nêëu nûúáng cuãa nhaâ haâng, chuáng töi goåi töm ram mùån, canh chua caá loác, vaâ boâ nûúáng dûâa. Trong nhoám coân ngûúâi ùn chay nïn chuáng töi cuäng goåi rau caãi röí xaâo toãi vaâ moán maâ ai trong chuáng töi àïìu thñch – moán rau muöëng xao toãi vaâ moán àêåu huä chiïn doân àún giaãn. Moán töm ram mùån laâ möåt àôa nhoã so vúái giaá tiïìn, nhûng may mùæn thay sa-tïë cay vaâ nöìng cuäng nhû võ mùån cuãa muöëi vûâa àuã àïí laâm moán coá àöå sêu, vaâ cuäng coá àuã nûúác söët àïí ùn hïët chöî cúm ài keâm. Boã qua moán canh chua caá loác nêëu quaá tay mïìm nhuän maâ trûúác àêy baån àaä thûúãng thûác, moán naây úã àêy söëng àöång vaâ laâ möåt cuá hñch, chûáa àêìy rau quaã tûúi, khuác caá khöng thïí mïìm ngoåt hún vaâ nûúác canh thò nhiïìu maâ chuáng töi coá thïí búi àûúåc trong êëy. Moán boâ nûúáng dûâa – traái dûâa àûúåc nhöìi àêìy thõt boâ mïìm nhû nhung vaâ haânh têy, nhêån àûúåc hai hûúáng nhêån xeát tûâ nhoám chuáng töi. Mùåc duâ moán àûúåc trònh baây khaá thuá võ, nhûng võ húi nhaåt, vaâ duâ thõt boâ vêîn giûä möåt phêìn nhoã hûúng võ dûâa, sûå àöìng

àiïåu caã vïì chêët lûúång lêîn phong caách luön quan troång. Tuy nhiïn, moán toãa saáng cuãa àïm laâ moán rau caãi röí. Moán nheå nhaâng vaâ tûúng tûå nhû moán rau caãi xaâo kiïíu Thuåy Syä, vaâ laâ möåt sûå cên bùçng tuyïåt vúâi giûäa hûúng võ giá vaâ chêët lûúång. Chuáng töi cua lột sốt kïët thuác trêån àêëu khêíu trứng Muối trïn möîi miïëng. 77,000 Đồng/một Têët caã chuâng töi àïìu con nhêët trñ rùçng Song Ngû tôM raM Mặn cêìn möåt chêët riïng, vaâ 128,000 Đồng nhûäng gò nhaâ haâng thiïëu canh chua laâ caá tñnh vaâ trang trñ, vaâ cá lóc chùæc chùæn cêìn caãi thiïån 128,000 Đồng nhûäng àiïìu àoá vúái sûå Bò nướng dừa phuåc vuå àùåc biïåt vaâ chu 143,000 Đồng àaáo. Thêåm chñ mùåc duâ chó coá traái cêy vaâ kem laâ rau cải rổ xào tỏi moán traáng miïång, chuáng 78,000 Đồng töi vêîn vui veã ra vïì. Tuy nhiïn, vúái möåt loaåt caác rau Muống 58,000 Đồng nhaâ haâng haãi saãn tûúng tûå taåi Saâi Goân, àïí chiïën đậu hũ thùæng nïn nöíi bêåt hún chiên dòn 55,000 Đồng trong àaám àöng. Mỗi thang điểM cho thức ăn, trang trí và phục vu dựa theo thang điểM từ 0 đến 15 13 – 15 = đặc biệt đến hoàn hảo 10 – 12.5 = rất tốt đến tuyệt 8 – 9.5 = tốt đến rất tốt 5 – 7.5 = khá tới tốt 0 – 4.5 = kém tới khá Bài viết này có Mục đích đóng góp xây dựng tích cực

nhân xÉt

11 14 7

ThứC ăN

PhụC Vụ

NộI ThấT

Chôn Thân Tiên Cảm thấy mệt mỏi vì sống trong thực tế, Ed Weinberg (được biết đến như là ESPN trong cộng đồng yêu tinh) bước vào vương quốc huyền thoại của phù thủy, những đồng tiền Kybo và những bức tượng đất sét. Hình ảnh do Charles Barnes

aä 9 giúâ 30 saáng, töi vêîn muöën nguã vuâi sau khi nhêån àûúåc tin nhùæn khêín cêëp tûâ möåt ngûúâi baån kyâ laå MJ: “Naây! Xuöëng 141 Phan Xñch Long, töi coá àiïìu bêët ngúâ kyâ diïåu cho anh…” Töi cöë gùæng nguã laåi, nhûng àiïìu bñ êín àoá laâm töi tónh thûác. Cuöëi cuâng töi cuäng nhùæn laåi, “Caái gò vêåy?” Nhûng töi àaä bõ mïìm loâng vaâ khi cö êëy khöng theâm noái cho töi biïët, töi àaânh chõu thua. Laái xe khoãi Phuá Nhuêån, töi tòm àïën caái àõa chó maâ toâa nhaâ nùçm trïn nhòn rêët khaác so vúái nhûäng toâa nhaâ bï töng cöët theáp xunh quanh. Bïn ngoaâi trang trñ lúáp sún veä giaã göî nûát neã, caái kiïíu maâ baån coá thïí thêåt sûå ngûãi thêëy muâi àùåc trûng. MJ (tïn yïu tinh: Majestic Joseá) àang úã trong hiïåu baánh àöåi möåt caái bùng àö vúái

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àöi tai vaãi yïu tinh ruä xuöëng úã hai bïn, ài cuâng vúái chiïëc baánh maâu nêu trïn coá hònh ngûúâi phuå nûä mùåc aáo hoa. Cö êëy nhòn töi cûúâi tinh nghõch vaâ huyách khuyãu tay vaâo möåt àôa baánh.

Chuyện Cổ tích thần tiên

Töi hoãi cöë êëy “Núi naâo thïë naây?” vaâ cö êëy traã lúâi “Chaâo mûâng túái Cafeá Elf” AÂ, thêåt ra thò khöng chñnh xaác – baãng tïn quaán laâ Ba Cêy Chöíi – nhûng nhû moåi thûá khaác úã àêy, möåt ñt kyâ laå laåi hay. Gùåp gúä võ chuã quan hay mú möång Buâi Tûúâng Anh, töi bùæt àêìu hiïíu têët caã nhûäng thûá kyâ laå naây àïën tûâ àêu. Baån coá thïí nghô Anh coá möåt chuát gò mú möång thêìn tiïn nhûng baån coá thïí sai. Cö êëy laâ möåt phuâ thuãy, nhû töi êëy, vaâ cö êëy coá thïí húi möåt chuát lûâa loåc. Tïn yïu tinh

cuãa cö laâ Comet, “möåt ngöi sao xui.” Cö cûúâi khi khi noái töi biïët àiïìu naây vaâ tiïëp tuåc, “nhûng töi hy voång töi khöng thêåt sûå laâ vêån xui àöëi vúái nhên viïn cuãa mònh – “Trúâi, Comet àïën kòa!” Khi vaâo thaânh phöë Ba Cêy Chöíi – baån bùæt àêìu caãm nhêån àûúåc sûå huyïìn bñ núi naây. Baån coá thïí nhêån àûúåc möåt caái noán vui nhöån beá tñ hay coá thïí laâ möåt voâng hoa nhûåa taåi ngên haâng ngay löëi vaâo, vaâ àöíi tiïìn trong thïë giúái thêåt cuãa baån thaânh tiïìn yïu tinh Kybo. Baån seä àoáng vai möåt nhên vêåt vaâ chuêín bõ bûúác vaâo thïë giúái thêìn tiïn. Võ trñ hiïån àaåi khöng coân àuáng trong vûúng quöëc nûäa. Thay vaâo àoá, Anh cho rùçng noá laâ caánh cûãa vaâo möåt yá tûúãng vïì möåt thïë giúái khöng bõ boá buöåc trong caác bûác tûúâng vaâ mùåt àêët, nhûng laâ nêët cûá núi àêu coá thïí, miïîn laâ baån coá thïí tûúãng tûúång ra.

Böën têìng coân laåi cuãa quaán toaân böå àûúåc laâm theo traãi nghiïåm tûúãng tûúång, tûâ phoâng nhaâ cêy thoaãi maái àïën saãnh bia haãi tùåc àïën phoâng chiïëu phim 3D. Coân coá möåt phoâng ùn töëi kïët húåp phoâng hoåp, àûúåc trang trñ theo phong caách thúâi àaåi vua Arthu, àûúåc duâng àïí töí chûác caác cuöåc hoåp kinh doanh vaâ tiïåc sinh nhêåt, vaâ möåt ngaây naâo àoá coá thïí töí chûác cuöåc thi bùæn cung. Coá möåt xûúãng laâm mö hònh laâng vúái nhûäng mêîu nhaâ trong thaânh phöë tiïn giöëng thêåt àûúåc àuác sùén chûa àûúåc dûång. Taåi xûúãng may trang phuåc yïu tinh coá mêëy bûác tûúång àêët seát cho dên cû thaânh phöë tö maâu, vaâ trang phuåc àûúåc sùæp thaânh haâng vúái chêët liïåu nhung vaâ ren. Nhûäng yïu tinh nhiïåt tònh coá mùåt úã moåi núi, thêåm chñ hoå laâm viïåc khuêët bïn trong – nhû nhaâ maáy cöng nhên cuãa Anh vúái nhûäng yïu tinh àaä vïì hûu, hoå àaä truyïìn sûác söëng cho caái quaán cuãa cö.

trận Bóng độc

YÁ tûúãng vïì Ba Cêy Chöíi xuêët phaát tûâ möåt chuyïën ài dûå Höåi Chúå Troâ Chúi vaâ Àöì Chúi úã Hong Kong vaâo thaáng 01/2011, vaâ möåt chuyïën àïën khu vui chúi Disneyland úã Hong Kong. Anh thêëy caã ngûúâi treã lêîn lúán tuöíi xung quanh mònh, vaâ rêët nhiïìu treã em tûâ möåt àïën nùm tuöíi. Vaâ àêy laâ möåt caái gò àoá maâ cö coá thïí trûúác àêy khöng bao giúâ nhêån ra – ngûúâi lúán cuäng rêët quan têm àïën viïåc vui chúi giaãi trñ nhû treã em. Giêëc mú naây chiïëm mêët mûúâi nùm laâm viïåc trong lônh vûåc àêìu tû cuãa cö vaâ vêîn

chaáy êm ó, vaâ cö muöën chia seã àiïìu naây vúái nhûäng ngûúâi coá cuâng súã thñch. “Thêåm chñ nhûäng ngûúâi lúán cuäng muöën coá möåt chöî naâo àoá thêåt laäng maån. Do vêåy, töi nghô noá thêåt sûå dïî thûúng nïëu töi coá thïí coá möåt núi cho hoå àïën vaâ mú möång!” – Anh giaãi thñch. Cö cuäng àaä nghô thïm möåt söë viïåc múái, vaâ coá thïí seä laâm thïm möåt cöng viïn mö hònh. “Chuyïån àoá àïí sau!” – cö noái, vò ûúác mú cuãa cö caâng ngaây ngaây caâng vûún daâi ra vúái nhiïìu tham voång vaâ àiïìu kyâ laå. Thêåm chñ coân coá kïë hoaåch phaát triïín möåt mön thïí thao quöëc tïë - boáng àöåc, vúái mön naây, caác thaânh viïn trong àöåi seä coäng nhau, ngûúâi trïn lûng seä la heát laâm con caá noác súå cho àïën khi noá phònh lïn thaânh möåt traái boáng troân àuã àïí ghi baân (chûa àûúåc àùåt tïn). Tuy nhiïn, yá tûúãng naây àaä àûúåc thûåc hiïån taåi àêy. Àoá laâ möåt moán quaâ daânh cho con caái cuãa cö – vúái tïn yïu tinh laâ Forest Fool vaâ Mushroom – nhûäng àûáa treã maâ cö e rùçng chuáng seä chúi game suöët, vaâ biïën thaânh “robot, lûúâi biïëng, kyâ quùåc, vaâ cuöåc söëng cuãa chuáng seä trúã nïn kinh khuãng.” Àoá laâ möåt moán quaâ daânh cho nhûäng ai cêìn thoaát khoãi tònh traång cö àöåc àïí tòm thêëy àûúåc hiïån thûåc lyá tûúãng cuãa mònh, laâ möåt núi maâ “baån khöng lo lùæng mònh laâ ai, baån seä khöng súå sïåt viïåc moåi ngûúâi àaánh giaá baån nhû thïë naâo.” Vaâ noá cuäng laâ möåt moán quaâ cho bêët cûá nhûäng ai maâ chûa bao giúâ tûúãng tûúång ra caái gò khaác biïåt vúái thïë giúái maâ hoå àang söëng möîi ngaây.

Vậy Bạn muốn tRở thành một yêu tInh? Cách phân loại yêu tinh hIệP Sỹ Một kẻ săn rồng lầm lì nhưng hào hiệp. họ thường trông giống như những con vịt trong bộ giáp ồn ào của mình. tIên Là những sinh vật nhỏ nhắn dễ thương biết bay… và họ biết điều đó. họ cũng có chút thông minh. Phùthủy Những kẻ này thì khôn ngoan và thông minh nhưng thường cáu kỉnh và thỉnh thoảng ác độc. Như Anh nói: “Anh biết mà, ranh giới giữa thiện và ác là một màu xám.” yêutInh Chỉ nhân viên của Ba Cây Chổi mới có thể là yêu tinh. họ có vẻ khôn ngoan và đẹp hơn loài người, là những kẻ yêu thiên nhiên, nghệ thuật và âm nhạc…. vì vậy nói một cách khác, bạn sẽ được phục vụ tận tình chu đáo. Ba cây chổi nằm ở 141 Phan Xích Long, Phú nhuận, trang web: bacaychoi.com August 2012 Word | 143

The Final Say DEAD hEAT / ON ThE STOOL

White Male Syndrome Through his experiences of dating local women, Derek Milroy analyses the pros and cons of being a ‘white male’ in his adopted home

an you imagine going back in time when you were a small boy dreaming of being locked in the biggest candy store in the world? Well, when western ‘white’ men land in Vietnam, Saigon becomes that candy store. Every man loves to look at beautiful women, no matter what they tell their beloved, and in Saigon they need eyes in the back of their head to catch a glimpse of just a fraction of them. Vietnamese women, though, are not easy. That’s for sure. Definitely high maintenance. They’re tough, too, and like to rule the roost. Especially at home. But if you are lucky enough to find the right one — and like everywhere you may visit it is a real mission-and-a-half to find her — you can potentially have that exotic, stunning dream girl for life. You have to be really choosy when you take on a girlfriend as you are the proverbial fish out of water. My friends always gauge what type a girl is by where you meet them, whether it is bar, disco, online, coffee shop or randomly on the street. Others say, meet their family, go to their home. You’ll learn more about the woman in that one trip than you may do in a year. While meeting the family is vital, in my experience where you meet your partner is not important. You never know someone until, well, you know them. And that takes time. I spoke to a guy once who told me that he was desperately trying to get a visa for his pregnant girlfriend to come with him to live in Britain. He was asking my advice. So I said to him, “Okay, how long have you known her?” “Four weeks,” came his reply. I just shook my head and told him he had no chance. The second he said four weeks I knew

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either he was completely gullible or stupid or both, or that the woman was pregnant by another guy, probably her real boyfriend, and that she set up this guy to bring home the bacon.

“You have to be really choosy when you take on a girlfriend as you are the proverbial fish out of water. My friends always gauge what type a girl is by where you meet them, whether it is bar, disco, online, coffee shop or randomly on the street.” And then there is The Consulate. They want to have strong evidence that the relationship is genuine before granting the visa.

Best of Both Worlds Some women I have come across in Saigon openly say that they have a rich foreign boyfriend for money and a Vietnamese boyfriend for love. They are happy with the set-up, although I’m not so sure what the boyfriends think. Especially when marriage and having kids comes into the equation. Of course, there’s a health issue, too. I was recently reading Agatha Christie’s

autobiography and she said that in the early 20th century everyone in England thought all Americans were rich. It’s the old 14th-century, Dick Whittington story, the fairy-tale belief that the streets of London are paved with gold. In Vietnam, for anyone not born with a pair of silver chopsticks in their mouth, all foreigners are rich. We wish. The key is to stand back a little and be relative. If you compare Saigon and the great cities of the western world and Asia, you will see things for what they are worth. Although it’s changing fast, most Vietnamese don’t have this luxury. Conversely, for the single white male, when a man sees a beautiful woman back home I’d say he has a chance in a 100 she will make eye contact, let alone smile at him. However, if you have a white face in Saigon, your chances increase to a 50/50 shot or even higher. Getting a complete stranger’s phone number after a brief meeting is no hardship. It’s no wonder most westerners who settle in Vietnam either don’t want to leave or stay for life. Indeed, some white men in Asia quite clearly believe their own press from their newfound friends. “Chao anh, dep trai!” And this is even despite their unsuccessful attempts to seduce beautiful girls in the past when they were back home. As for the ‘white male syndrome’, we should be grateful that we get so much attention. Just make sure we don’t let it take us over. In a country such as Vietnam, it’s very easy to think you’re bigger, better and more important than you actually are. Having a decent salary and a passport to a new life carries a lot of weight. Whether it carries a relationship for life is another matter. The views represented in this article are those of the writer and do not reflect in any way the opinions held by Word.

August 2012 Word | 145

CRIME FICTION SERIAL

Dead Heat In our second installment of serialised original crime fiction by English author Rob Marsh, Russell Kemp, an ex-Captain in the South African Police Service and now a private detective, has reluctantly come to Vietnam. He is looking for a girl named Nguyen Hai Hien who has gone missing after leaving Johannesburg with her South African boyfriend. Nguyen Ba Hoa, the missing girl’s twin sister, has met him at the airport… Illustration by Henry Fenton

On the way back into the city he said, “I have a contact. Someone I worked with many years ago.” She was making a point of ignoring him; he knew that from the way she was concentrating on the passing parade. “Vietnamese?” she asked a minute later. “Yes.” “A policeman?” “A detective.” “You don’t speak Vietnamese do you?” “No.” “And you’ve never been to Vietnam before?” It was more a statement than a question. “No.” She allowed herself the smallest of smiles; her face lit up the taxi. “This is complete madness,” she said. Kemp was tempted to agree with her. He knew that he had been talked into coming to Ho Chi Minh City to look for this angry young woman’s twin sister against his better judgment. He stared out through the window. He had never seen so many motorcycles before. Watching them pass on either side of the vehicle he felt like a rock set amidst a swirling river of riders.

Glass

Episode 2: Tran Hai Duong Ton Son Nhat International Airport “My mother was foolish sending you here. This is a complete waste of time,” Nguyen Ba Hoa said angrily and strode away towards the exit. Left standing in the arrivals hall, Russell Kemp could do little but admire the young woman’s slender calves as he went after her in pursuit. He managed to catch up with her just as she was

146 | Word August 2012

leaving the airport building. She was tall and slim and though her face was not conventionally pretty, high cheekbones and dark, almond-shaped eyes made it striking. “Your mother thinks I can help. Maybe it’s good that you called me in so soon,” he said trying to make a joke of it, though he could have been talking to a deaf person. Out in the open air the heat was overpowering. Kemp had not expected

the weather to be so hot or his reception to be so cold. At the edge of the kerb they waited for a taxi. “My mother says you’re a good detective. Are you?” she said finally. It seemed like a genuine enquiry. “People tend to exaggerate my abilities, I’m afraid,” he said. His admission seemed only served to confirm all her worst fears. Grunting with disgust she moved away to wave down a minicab.

Nguyen Ba Hoa’s apartment belonged to her parents. It was on the thirty-second floor of an architect’s dream of glass and polished stone called Saigon Pearl. “What have you discovered about your sister’s disappearance?” Kemp asked. He was standing at a window gazing down on Saigon River. In the distance Ho Chi Minh City’s cluster of tall buildings rose and fell like broken teeth. “Six weeks ago she arrived here with her South African boyfriend and vanished.” “What about the boyfriend?” She shrugged. “What did your sister tell you about him?” She came to stand next to him by the glass and Kemp suddenly became aware of her perfume: a subtle blend, delicate and heady. “She didn’t tell me anything. The first I knew that she was coming to Vietnam was when she telephoned me the day she was leaving.” Stranger and stranger. “Weren’t you close? Your sister and you, I mean?” Kemp asked. “I thought we were.” “So why the… the secrecy?” “I don’t know. I can’t explain it.” “So what have you done since you got here? To find your sister, I mean?” “I visited all the places we used to go together…spoke with our friends…” “And?” “No one’s seen her. No one knows where she is.” “I don’t understand,” Kemp said.

When she finally turned to look at him he saw that her eyes had filled suddenly with trembling tears. “I don’t understand either, Mr Kemp,” she said quietly. ********* At lunchtime, Hoa telephoned Tran Hai Duong, Kemp’s Vietnamese contact. A meeting was arranged for six o’clock that evening. “Where are we meeting?” Kemp asked. She took him back to the window; pointed across the river. “You see that tall building,” she said, “the one with the steel towers on the top?” He stretched out his neck to follow the line of her slim fingers, but with her standing so close the only thing he was aware of was the graceful curve of her hips. “Yes.” “That’s where we’re meeting.” “In his office?” “Your friend doesn’t have an office.” She sounded annoyed. “We’re meeting in a coffee shop.” “Ah.” A minor traffic accident had happened below them on the freeway and a small crowd of people had gathered around a huddle of police vehicles, blue lights flashing. Tran Hai Duong was sitting in a cloud of blue smoke in a window booth when Kemp and Hoa walked into the coffee shop. He was a man in his late 50s or early 60s and though barely 1.6 metres tall, was built like an ox with the thick neck and huge shoulders of a wrestler. Under a long black coat he had on a threadbare white shirt, faded blue jeans and battered brown shoes, bursting at the seams. Stubbing out his cigarette, he rose to meet his guests. He held out his hand. “Mi’ter Kemp, it good see you ‘gain,” he said. After Kemp had made the formal introductions Duong made a remark in Vietnamese, which caused Hoa to shrug. Duong pulled a face. “I say you good detective,” he said, “but she not want listen.” “Can we get this over with, please,” Hoa said unhappily. “We need to find someone,” Kemp said by way of an opening then listened in silence while the two of them spoke at length in Vietnamese. Eventually, Duong nodded and turned to Kemp. “Sister go missing,” he said. “Yes.” “No boyfrien’, no clue… Difficul.” Again Kemp nodded to which Duong said something in Vietnamese that made the young woman scowl. “What did he say?” Kemp asked her. Her eyes were blazing. “He said he’s not a miracle worker, though not quite as politely.” “Five hundred dollar,” Duong said. Ba Hoa was shaking her head.

“She didn’t tell me anything. The first I knew that she was coming to Vietnam was when she telephoned me the day she was leaving.” “The job’s worth US$500,” Kemp whispered. She glared at him for a moment. “That’s not for the job, that’s for the day!” “An’ five day guaranteed,” Duong said grinning at the two of them and displaying in the process a mouthful of brown-stained teeth.

Another Attack Across the city, the man they were looking for — the boyfriend — was talking to a young Vietnamese woman whom he had taken to the villa he rented next to the Saigon River. I want to go home now,” she said eventually. “Yes.” When she realised that he was making no effort to move, she turned to look at him. That was when she saw that his mouth had suddenly become a narrow line, tight with seriousness. “What wrong?” she asked. Looking down at her in that instant he imagined the flash of his knife’s long blade as it sliced into her flesh. Three gleaming arcs: chock...chock...chock. Red on silver: once...twice...three times. He shook his head, did his best to smile. “Nothing,” he said. “Nothing. Everything is perfect…” Out on the water two long boats passed each other in midstream, their captains at the tiller. Look out for Episode 3 in our September issue. This is a work of fiction. All names, characters and incidents are either invented or used fictitiously. Rob Marsh is the author of 30 published books (both fiction and non-fiction). He has a special interest in matters crimerelated and is the author of Famous South African Crimes and With Criminal Intent: the changing face of crime in South Africa. He currently lives in Ho Chi Minh City.

August 2012 Word | 147

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H. NG NG Ta o D a nTa o TruDo a n Truyoen D Phan Boi Chau, Q1 - D5 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 - D6, E5 e ho TA TA u n uyho NG NG M M Pa r k Pa r kng Phan Chau Trinh, Q1 - D5 Ky Con, Q1 - E4, E5, F5 Ng g Ng Tr Tr UY UY uc uc g E Di Di rong Pho Duc Chanh, Q1 - E5, F5, F6 Ky Dong, Q3 - A1, B1 hat haEtN ng ng T T ron nh nTh o NH o a a T n n L L HU To To u u UE Ng V. V. Ng T T Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 - A4, A5 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 - E5 u u E n y y u on u L L o L L g g T Ben h T Ben I I Le Duan, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C4, C5 an an nh n HA Suong Nguyet HAAnh, Q1 - D2, D3, E2 ha han h T h a n h Kh KhBi t excoBi t exco G G T h a T T N N Thai Van Lung, Q1 B6, C6 Le Lai, Q1 - E3, E4, E5 e A A Tower Tower Le c c h L h TH TH Thu Thu Nin Ma r ket Nin Ma r ket A Sach, Q1 - C6, C7 Le Loi, Q1 - C6, D5, D6 BA BThi An An . . Huyn h Huyn h Ng Ng Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 - D4, D5 Le Ngo Cat, Q3 - C1, C2 Thi Rieng Le Thi Rieng Pham Hong TPhha e m Ho L ng T h Thu Thiem Tuunnel, E7 ai ai Le Quy Don, Q3 - B2, B3 To To n n HAM NGHI HAM NGHI Ba C7, Ba Th Th Ton Duc Thang, Q1 - A6, B6, B7, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 - B6, B7, C5, C6, D4, I I n n a at RA RA Co Co t L L e e C C T T o o ng Kieu ng Kieu D7, E7 D5, E4 Tu Tu EN EN ng ng ru ru UY UY Ton That Dam,N Q1 - D6, E6 N Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 - E4, E5 m m EL EL gT gT h G G N N Ca Ca inh TUNN TUNN gu gu Ga GaBin Con Con B n n ye - D6 ye Ton That Thiep, Q1 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 - E3 HIEM HU THIEM o o e e g g T y y U L L n n H u u n n T T Th Th u u Ng Ng Th Th AI 2 3 /9E LAI 2 3 /9 Ho Ho an an Ton That Tung, Q1 - E2 Luong Huu Khanh, Q1 - E2 ien ien LE L L hi hi i g g i T T T T a a Pa r k Pa r k hu Tran Cao Van, Q1 - A5, B4hua Luu Van Lang, Q1 - D5 Hu Hu Le Le Th at Th u u t Kh Kh Tran Hung Dao, Q1 - E4, E5, F3, F4 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 - A1, B1, C1 o o a a L L anh anh n n Y Y Ph u My Phu H u ngM y/ / H u ng / / ye ye Ngu Ngu Tran Quoc Thao, Q3 - A1, A2, B2, B3, C3 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 - B6, C5, C6, D4, D5 WA WA gu gu ham ham N N P P N h a Be N // h a C B a ne G / /i oC/an / Gio // Tran Quoc Toan, Q3 - A2, B2 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 - A4, A5, B5, B6 C C onnhg ong nh a a Ph u My Ph Br u i d M g e y / B / r i Q d 7 g e // Q7 h h Q Q Truong DInh, Q1, Q3 - B1, B2, C2, C3, Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 - C6, D6 C C uyn uyn h h iet iet t t n n a a H H V V e e D3, D4, E4 Me Linh Circle, Q1 D7 u u Ba Ba Vi Vi LY L Tr Tr am am Bui Bui HA-I A3, A4Y THAI Truong Quyen, TQ3 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, Ph Ph ng ng TO TO o o Cho LonC h//o L on // C C Tu Xuong, Q3 - A3, B2, C1 B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, E5, E6 n n Q5 & Q6 Q5 & Q6 ye ye u u Vo Thi Sau, Q3 - A2, A3, B1, B2, C1 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 - D6, D7 T T E E Ng Ng KI KI Vo Van Kiet ( East West Highway) - E6, Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 - B2, B3, C2 AN AN V V n n h h e e i i n n F5, F6 Ngo Van Nam,ViQ1nh- VB7 Tri Tri Vinh V VO VO DO DO Cu Cu U U AN AN NG NG c c Ng. Ng. DIE DIE Vo Van Tan, Q3 - B4, C3, C4, D2, E1, E2 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 - D4, D5, E4 O O a a U U B B V VA V V ANG ANG A O O o o Vuon Chuoi, Q3 - D1 H H Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 - A6, A7 G G N N C C N N BO BO HU HU Yershin, Q1 - E4, F5 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 - E5, E5, F4, F5

{crossword}

Photo of the Month

Answers on page 4

JOKING AROuND 1

20 24

29 32

31 34

48 53

47 51

31. The Sun is one 32. Possessed 16 34. Comedian who plays a lead 19 character that “everybody loves”: 2 wds. 38. “Bresk a ____!” (what you might say to a comedian about to perform) 39. Adam’s partner 36 37 41. Winning row in tic-tac-toe 42 42. Used a shovel 43. Comesian who has a self-titled sitcom and hosts “Whose line Is It Anyway?: 2 wds. 46. One-___ (brief joke) 48. Hilariously funny person 63 64 65 49. Buck’s mate 51. “Scream” star Campbell 52. Sticky, chwy candy 54. Sail Supporter 55. Marx ___ (slapstick family of old films): Abbr. 56. 1986 Nobel Peace Prize winner Wiesel 57. Possesses 58. “Road to ____” (1947 comedy starring Bing Crosby and 57-Down) 60. Ginger ____ 61. “Saturday Night Live” regular who co-starred in “The Blues Brothers”: 2 wds. 66. “Rabel Without a Cause” actor Mineo 67. Fencing swords 68. How to sign a contract: 2 wds. 69. Terminate 70. Firma 9dry land) 71. 71 “It was ____ and stormy night ...”: 2 wds. 11

ACROSS 1. Geongo who was still cracking jokes well into his 90’s 6. Pranks are pulled at the start of this month 11. Actor Gerard or baseballer Hodges 14. Played for ____ (what you might be on the first day of 6-Across): 2 wds. 15. ____ Arabia 16. Suffix with Manhattan or Israel 17. Comedian with a self-titled talk show in the late 1990’s: 2 wds. 19. Statute 20. Stockholm’s country: Abbr. 21. Moines, lowa 22. 451, in Roman numerals 23. Prefix with European or Chinese 26. God of thunder 28. Overwhelms with humor, as a comedian might do to an audience 29. Comedy ____ (couple like Gracie Allen and 1-Across) 30. Title for a knight

DOWN 1. “____ humbug!” 2. sci-fi transportation 3. Move with oars 4. Disgusting, as an odor 5. Whole bunch

6. Red ____ beet: 2 wds. 7. Infamous box opener of myth 8. More impolite 9. “Beware the ____ of March!” 10. “____ Abner” (old comic strip) 11. She played Roseanne Roseannadanna and Baba Wawa on “Sarturday Night Live”: 2 wds. 12. Rome is its capital 13. “The Nutty Professor” star Jerry who now hosts an annual telethon 18. New York baseball team 22. ____ chowder 23. “____ you so!”: 2 wds. 24. Not as old 25. Comesian Rodney whose tag line is “I don’t get no respect!” 27. Filler of a job opening 28. What a stand-up comedian oftan sits on 31. Sold-out sign abbr. 33. Artificial duck used by a hunter 35. Toys with strings attached: Hyph. 36. ____ Mexico (Spanish for “New Mexico”) 37. Fairy tale fiends 40. Big tub 44. :Take my ____ ... please!” (Henny Youngman catchphrase) 45. “Lou Grant” star with seven Emmys: 2 wds. 47. Like traffic headed toward town 50. Raison d’____ (reason for being) 52. Provoke jokingly 53. Comedian Sherman who recorded song parodies 54. Comedian Bil who hosts “Politically Incorrect” 57. Comedian Bob who entertained troops during World War II 59. 1998 gold madal figure skater Kulik 61. Fast plane 62. Youth group with the motto “Be Prepared”: Abbr. 63. Health club 64. That lady 65. Disappearing ____ (practical joker’s writing fluid)

by Daena Teng

{pop lingo quiz}

Squished

Choose the correct answers for the questions below: 1. a) Sáu giờ b) năm giờ mười lăm phút c) tám giờ năm phút

1) What film featured the R Kelly song I Believe I Can Fly?

name with what English city? 8) What sea separates Italy from The Balkans?

2) What drink was advertised on TV by Joan Collins and Leonard Rossiter?

9) With what sport would you most associate the commentator Ted Lowe?

3) What was the first Broadway musical?

10) Who said, "I have no problems with drugs, only policemen"?

4) Who plays Gabrielle Solis in Desperate Housewives? 5) Where was the uK's first escalator installed? 6) What unusual item can you buy from a vending machine in the Paris Metro? 7) The largest city in Alabama shares its

150 | Word August 2012

Part 2: How much are these items in Vietnamese? 6. a) tám trăm hai mươi ngàn đồng b) Bốn trăm năm mươi ngàn đồng c) năm trăm sáu mươi ngàn đồng Vnd450,000

Answers on page 2 14) Paul Young was once a member of what band, was it The Q Tips or The Q Jumpers? 15) What is the state capital of Louisiana? 16) What is Dorothy’s last name in The Wizard Of Oz? 17) Name Buddy Holly's Texas hometown?

11) What song features the lyrics, “He's got crazy flipper fingers never seen him fall”?

18) What sport uses a piece of equipment 9 foot long and 5 foot wide?

12) What former heavy weight boxing champion has an identical twin brother called George?

19) What is the longest athletics race in the Olympic Games?

13) Vitamins are listed with letters of the alphabet A, B, C, D, E and what?

20) If you had pogonophobia what would you be afraid of?

WIN !! PRIZES

The first three people to send all correct answers to christine@wordhcmc.com will win a free 10-hour Vietnamese language course at Vietnamese Language Studies Saigon (VLS). Part 1: What time is it in Vietnamese?

Trivia Buff

Do you own a photograph that would look go od here? Email it to christine@ wordhcmc.co m

2. a) Sáu giờ

7. a) tám trăm hai mươi ngàn đồng

b) năm trăm sáu mươi ngàn đồng c)Sáu trăm tám mươi ngàn đồng

b) năm giờ mười lăm phút c) tám giờ năm phút Vnd820,000

3. a) Sáu giờ

8. a)tám trăm hai mươi ngàn đồng

b)Bốn trăm năm mươi ngàn đồng c) năm trăm sáu mươi ngàn đồng

b) năm giờ mười lăm phút c) Bảy giờ rưỡi

Prizes are for first time winners only Part 3: What are the highlighted dates in Vietnamese? 11. a) ngày mười tám tháng tư b) ngày mười lăm tháng mười c) ngày hai mươi tám tháng một 12. a) ngày mười tám tháng tư

b) ngày mười lăm tháng mười c) ngày hai mươi tám tháng một 13. a) ngày mười tám tháng tư

b) ngày mười lăm tháng mười c) ngày mười một tháng bảy

Vnd560,000

4. a) Sáu giờ

9. a) Bốn trăm năm mươi ngàn đồng

b) năm trăm sáu mươi ngàn đồng c) một triệu không trăm năm mươi ngàn đồng

b) năm giờ mười lăm phút c) tám giờ năm phút 5. a) Sáu giờ

Vnd1,050,000

10. a) tám trăm hai mươi ngàn đồng

b) năm giờ mười lăm phút c) Bảy giờ bốn mươi lăm phút

b) Sáu trăm tám mươi ngàn đồng c) một triệu không trăm năm mươi ngàn đồng

14. a) ngày mười tám tháng tư

b) ngày mười lăm tháng mười c) ngày hai mươi tám tháng một 15. a) ngày mười tám tháng tư

b) ngày mười lăm tháng mười c) ngày sáu tháng mười một

Vnd680,000

August 2012 Word | 151

on THE

STOOL

his objets d'art have been featured in ELLE DÉCOr, The New York Times and Architectural Digest. This month french interior designer Bruno de Caumont discloses his thoughts on traitors, copycats and death. Photo by EJ Chung

THE PERSON

THE bUSiNESS

Where would you like to live? In my family's town house in the centre of Brussels. It's a 100-year-old house, built to my great grandparents’ specifications, with a wonderful and huge garden.

Do you worry about other people copying your designs here and selling them for a cheaper price? The copy market is a special world. People in this field are only interested in designers who are fashionable. If I was so, people would imitate me. But also, if I became fashionable, I would soon be a past fad... You don't make money by selling ‘last year’s stuff’!

What is your idea of happiness? Being with my closest friends in a remote corner at the other end of the world. Who are your favourite heroes of fiction? Arsène Lupin, known as the ‘Gentleman Thief’, and Hercule Poirot, known as an old Belgian policeman. The adventurer and the avenger. Your favourite musician? Jordi Saval What do you most value in your friends? Fidelity. This is essential in friendship. And their honesty and freedom to tell me what they think — compliments and criticism. I do not like flattery. What is it you most dislike? People who are afraid. They are aggressive and nasty. And most of the time their fear is a lack of intelligence. What historical figures do you most despise? Traitors. Judas, for example. Brutus who killed Caesar; Philip ‘Equality’ the cousin of King Louis XVI who voted for his death; Pierre Laval who organised the collaboration of the French state with the Nazis, and many others... What natural gift would you most like to possess? An extra one??? [Laughs] How would you like to die? Old, while I'm sleeping. What is your motto? “Success is dangerous. One begins to copy oneself. And to copy oneself is more dangerous than to copy others. It is sterile.” — Pablo Picasso

152 | Word August 2012

How can you prevent this from happening? Paradoxically, I have always defended the luxury field. But I have now started to get interested in ‘mass market’. In fact, I believe only two things in terms of market — the very highend and mass market. Everything intermediary has no interest. I guess that if I bring my designs to the mass market there will be no reason to be copied. Why have you decided to base your business here? Settling down in Saigon was not a choice. That was something that was obvious to me. I came to get orders of lacquered furniture, which were very poorly made. Then I had a decisive encounter — Mr Thiep, who is now my local partner. We have managed to establish a true confidence in our working relationship. I know I'm very lucky. But when I look back I realise I've always been very lucky in my life. Is there a market for Caumont Interiors in Vietnam? I think yes. Vietnam is a country in expansion with a multitude of talented entrepreneurs who offer the country new development. Like all Asians, the Vietnamese are fond of French style, especially when it uses traditional Asian techniques and has references to their culture. That's why my lacquered furniture is really appreciated. Moreover, Vietnam is at a crossroads in Asia. All roads lead to Saigon and from here I can go to Korea, Japan, Singapore or Hong Kong. That's why I plan to open a showroom in Saigon. What was your most unusual request as a designer? Unfortunately, I've never had one! No doubt it will happen when I become fashionable... To view Bruno’s works of art visit www.caumontinteriors.com