Word Ho Chi Minh City July 2012 by Word Vietnam

Contents

wordhcmc.com

JULY 2012

048

028

034

036

062

FEATURES 006 | The Prelude

CASTLES IN THE SAND

034

COLUMNS

The MGM brand is high rolling a casino and resort on the Ho Tram strip

THE TALK 009 | The Big Five 010 | Just In 012 | The Buzz

036

Start checking oﬀ these activities in our fun-ﬁlled list of dos, but keep in mind of the don’ts as well

022 | Calendar

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BURN BABY BURN

Get ready for some ﬁery dishes that will set your stomach and mouth aﬂame

064 068

ON LAND AND SEA

Skip the plane and opt for a slow adventurous journey by rail or boat to your destination instead

070

028 l The Illusionist Catch this Vietnamese magician’s act before he disappears forever

030 l The Call of the Wild The Thu Thiem area is preparing itself for development, but are the long time residents there ready to give it up?

062 l Mystery Diner Zest and Ciao Bella welcomed our critic to their tables this month

2 | Word July 2012

A BIRD SONG

In Saigon, man’s best friend isn’t his dog, it’s his bird

024 | Overscene INSIDER

COASTAL GROOVES

048

The sleepy towns of Hoi An and Danang are spotlighted this month in a 10-page mammoth feature

014 | In the Papers 016 | Word of Mouth

SAIGON BUCKET LIST

ESCAPE

Read the winning short story about a concentration camp written by 13-year-old Alishia Healey

072

AQUA BABES

No more excuses not to look sensational during the rainy season with these waterproof make up

076

READY TO RIDE

090 l Destination Zero 106 l Foodie Corner 112 l Cafe Critique 120 l Decks 'n Drums TIENG VIET HANOI 142 l The Flower Girl Find out more about Linh, the keeper of her family’s lotus pond

144 l Pipe Dreams Broken waterworks in a high rise are causing ﬂooded homes and angry tenants

FINAL SAY 152 l Meet the Parents Learn the protocols of meeting your Vietnamese partner’s parents

If driving in town’s too tame for you, then take it oﬀ the road for some motocross thrills

154 l Dead Heat

Trivia Buff Answers See p158 for the original puzzle 1) In My Opinion 2) Maria Sharapova 3) Sooner state 4) 1605 5) Indonesia 6) Brains 7) Bow 8) Quark 9) Coffee 10) Bouncers 11) Keystone 12) Teddy Pendergrass 13) The Return Of The King 14) Safari 15) Hammersmith Bridge 16) Colonel Sanders 17) Silver 18) Topaz 19) Pegasus 20) Prince Charles

We’ve got murder, mystery and mayhem in our new monthly crime ﬁction serial

160 l On the Stool Angel Phan wants to shoot cupid’s arrows at you in the name of love

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL CHRISTINE VAN Chief Editor christine@wordhcmc.com

QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY Senior Staff Photographer quinn@wordhcmc.com

JOHN THORNTON Deputy Chief Editor john@wordhcmc.com

STEPHANIE CANTRELL Staff Writer stephanie@wordhcmc.com

PAOLO MALING Art Director paolo@wordhcmc.com

EJ CHUNG Staff Photographer ej@wordhcmc.com

NGUYEN TAN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordhcmc.com

JAMES ALLEN Online & Deputy Editor james@wordhcmc.com

VU HA KIM VY Staff Reporter kimvy@wordhcmc.com

NICK ROSS Editor-at-Large nick@wordhcmc.com

ADMINISTRATION DUONG VY BAO General Director bao@wordhcmc.com bao@wordhanoi.com

LE DANG PHUONG TRANG Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com

ADVERTISING DUONG THI THANH XUAN Sales Manager xuan@wordhcmc.com

NGUYEN THUC DOAN HIEN Graphic Designer hien@wordhcmc.com

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For advertising enquiries please call Xuan on +84 1227 055122 or Bao on +84 902 361561 Special thanks to Charles Barnes, Michael Arnold, Robert Stockdill and Lyra Dacio for their contribution to this issue. C A O

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Crossword Answers See p158 for the original puzzle. Puzzle by Frank A. Longo. Edited by Will Shortz

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Chi Nhánh Công Ty CP TM–DV– QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 54/26 Nguyễn Cư Trinh, P.PNL, Q. 1, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 / Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com

Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 161/CXB-QLXB/ ngày 18/01/2012 Quyết định xuất bản số 179 QĐCN/LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 26/06/2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2012.

The Prelude A

s much fun as working all the time is — because trust us, we work all the time — we came to find that we’re only seeing glimpses of the city. They’re remarkable, spectacular glimpses, but glimpses nonetheless. This is where our cover story idea came in. We’re looking to better immerse ourselves in the community, and we like doing things that aren't technically related to work. So we had a look around, spoke to a guy who knows a guy, and made our very own to do list of the weird and wonderful things to do before leaving this country. As you can imagine, Ho Chi Minh City has more than

its fair share of adventures to be had, ranging from the obscure to the downright hilarious. And of course, the list wouldn’t be complete without warnings about the insane things you really shouldn’t do unless you want to kick the bucket. Although we don’t believe in scare mongering, it does pay to be mindful here, regardless of how intrepid an explorer you are. Obsessive news hounds that we are, this month we couldn’t help but notice temples and homes in District 2 being claimed by the upcoming Thu Thiem Project. So we took some time to investigate the human cost of such rapid

INBOX

expansion in a city that refuses to sit still. We also turned the volume down and caught up with those in pursuit of birdsong — a surprisingly labourintensive hobby — and went in search of a side to Danang and Hoi An we didn’t know existed. As ever, we look forward to getting your feedback. To make is easier for you, you can now text your comments direct to our managing editor Christine Van. Simply drop her an SMS on 0947 074136 (please refrain from sending drunken texts). Alternatively you can email her on christine@wordhcmc.com. We look forward to hearing from you!

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

JULY 2012

SAIGON BBUCKET SAIGON UCKET LLIST IST D O S

A N D

D O N ' T S

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo by Phil Burnett / www.photophil.us Design by DH Advertising

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US EITHER BY EMAIL ON christine@wordhcmc.com OR BY TEXT ON 0947074 136 — WE’RE NOW AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

MMMM, MMMM GOOD

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

JUNE 2012

(That Flame Grilled Feeling, May 2012) There's one on Yersin too now — but the District 11 one is the best. — Anon

TALKING SHOP

BATTERIES INCLUDED Christine Van speaks to Patrick Joynt, the motorman behind Vietnam’s ﬁrst electric Vespa and Lambretta. Photos by Mads Monsen

RICE.COM NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

How did this idea form? About a year ago a good friend of mine, William Sikes, contacted me about the idea of an electric powered, two-wheeled scooter. He had been researching bikes on the internet for some time and I had heard of a couple of early, very basic prototypes that never got further than the drawing board. We always liked the idea of an electric scooter, but the ones available for sale inside and outside Vietnam are underpowered and were not attractive to us at all. The VTronic was born and a partnership was formed. How were you able to convert the bikes to electric? By taking an empty chassis and putting in an electric system opposed to the traditional petrol system. After a lot of research we found suitable components that we could utilise and which were suitable for the project but yet did not alter the traditional look of both models and still enabled us to retain that classic look. The fabrication work is extensive but we think the end result was worth the work, research and development problems. If riders need to recharge, will there be charge points around the city? Unlike cars, they do not need a special charge station, the batteries can be charged on any 220V outlet. As long as there is an outlet that has power, you can charge the batteries.

RESPECT THE RICE

(Rice.Com, June 2012) The articles on rice were actually surprisingly interesting and have given me a newfound respect for the food. Now, could you write an article about people that force themselves into the elevator as you're trying to get out, so that I can find some respect for them too. — Sophie

6 | Word July 2012

Will you be converting existing Vespas and Lambrettas to electric or build them from scratch? The restoration to electric will be done on Vespa chassis, but we are custom building the Lambretta versions from scratch though to a similar design. Will you be able to turn bikes like Nuovos and Waves to electric power? It is possible to take the chassis of a Nuovo or Wave and make an electric bike, but the cost to do this may cause people to hesitate. We are using high quality parts to ensure that the bike will be constant and consistent in quality over a long period. We are using a lithium iron phosphate battery (LiFePO4), which are the best available, but it means that you will not have to change the battery until you have travelled 30,000km or 1,500 charges. The cheaper lead acid batteries will lose quality after 1,000 charges, usually less. Plus the LiFePO4 batteries are smaller and lighter. At this time, however, we are concentrating on our two main models — the Ebretta and the VTronic. What are the cost factors in owning an electric Vespa? What are the advantages of this over the petro-based bikes? As long as you have electricity, you can charge your bike. So you don't have to worry about the gas station being open or the quality of gas. We have done some rough maths, but we estimate the cost of running an electric Vespa is VND200 per

kilometre. Also add to that the fact that you don't need to change oil, worry about filters, seals,dirty petrol or fluids. The maintenance cost is low. There should be a few checks, but nothing as complicated or costly as a petrol-based scooter. On a safety note, in Europe electric cars are noiseless and have caused many accidents because other drivers can’t hear them, do you think this will be the case here as well? Our bikes are noiseless also, motorbike drivers use noise to judge if there is a person behind or beside them. Driving an electric in Saigon means you have to give a greater space bubble to minimise incidents. But we are developing accessories that can be integrated into the scooter to provide sound for the bike. But unlike your petrol bike, you can turn the sound up or off. Will all your bikes be handmade or will they go into factory production? All our bikes will be custom made to fit the order of our customers. It fits with our two core ideals: the best quality available and giving our customers exactly what they want. We also have demo scooters that are available to test drive that will show our base model specifications. Another reason behind this is due to the fact that this technology is developing so rapidly it means we can constantly offer the latest high spec products rather than having out-of-date stock.

During the rainy season, will the engine be affected by water getting into the bike? What precautions have you set up for this? The motor can run underwater with no problems as it is a sealed unit, but if the other components get wet, the system will possibly short out. We put the components in water tight compartments and in the upper parts of the chassis. We suggest that you don't ride your bike through more than 10 to 12 centimeters of water. But it will not have any problems in a downpour. The main battery assemblies are covered by the original style side panels and are well-protected. The central battery compartments and controller and battery management systems are fully enclosed below the modified seat base offering maximum protection. If they break down, how will riders fix them as all bike repair places in the country only know how to fix fuel bikes? The V-Tronic and the EBretta have fewer moving parts than their petrol

counterparts. So they are less likely to break as easily. The reason why the bike would stop is because either: A) you run out of power, B) a wire is loose or C) a system failure. Problems A and B are easy to solve (no mechanic needed), but problem C is a problem that we minimise by getting good components and testing the system before we allow any customer to ride a scooter they have purchased. But to minimise this problem further, we highly suggest having your V-Tronic or Ebretta serviced on a regular basis. This is similar to a petrol bike, but it will be serviced by an electrician, not a mechanic. If the bikes are electric does it mean they don’t require a licence plate or a driver’s license to ride? Not sure! Looking into this at the moment. They 'should' be classified as electric bicycles but maybe because of the increased power they may be re-catagorised here. In certain countries they are unlicenced up to a certain power

output. This varies from country to country. What other features are there? The power is supplied by a brushless 13” motor that generates 3kW. This will generate a torque of 180 Nm, which translates to a top speed of over 60 kmph, ideal for riding around town and commuting, with the engine having enough torque to accelerate uphill and carry a ‘larger person’. The charge time is approximately three hours and the run time, which will vary due to driving conditions, easily exceeds 40km, which most drivers don’t exceed on a daily basis. We are looking into adding accessories that allow you to charge your phone, tablet, or laptop while you drive. Our first production models will be available in August this year. What will be the average cost? The cost will be from VND95 million. For more info, visit www.saigonscootercentre.com

HONK FOR GREEN

(Batteries Included, June 2012) Loved the article on electric motorbikes, everyone should have one. Great that someone's making these as the only green thing that most people ask for in Ho Chi Minh City is a Saigon beer. Sure you'll have to cough up some more money for the bike, but you'll be coughing up less from your lungs. Saigon Green please! — JHA

The Talk

THE

BIG

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE

I’m a pie-eating migrant A couple of years back I was sat in a certain pub with some friends, when a woman who had joined our group started talking about her experiences in telesales back home. “It was disgusting,” she said. “Half of the people I had to speak to spoke no English at all.” Our group exchanged glances. There we were; a group exclusively made up of white people, in a pub with an English name and with just about enough language ability required to order another beer, and this person decided that the time was right to start laying into migrants. As is the case with racists everywhere, she had assumed that everyone would just be in agreement with her. She was yet to experience that epiphany when you realise that expats and migrants are one and the same. Right wing lunatics and their news channels will always have it in for migrants, and of course politicians know that when all else fails they can ‘blame the foreigners’, and in doing so, take advantage of people’s most shameful instincts. But for my money, there aree two main lessons you need to learn ass an overseas resident of a country such h as Vietnam. The first is that when something goes wrong you should learn to blame the immediate cause — not the country you’re in. The second d is that other overseas residents can live how they like as long as they aren’t hurting g anyone else.

Liberal Thinking You kind of expect the liberals among g us to be more understanding, but when you meet a liberal who is also a migrant, that understanding can be strangely absent. nt. Their attitude is that ‘they’ should be applauded for bringing their food and d traditions to foreign shores, and ‘we’ must eat only local food while in ‘their’ country. untry. I’ve tired of seeing the inverted snobbery of foreigners living in Hanoi oi who look scornfully at those who choose not to eat all their meals on the street. I doubt bt the same people would sneer at migrantss back

8 | Word July 2012

home when they’re tucking into a bowl of pho on a London high street. Likewise what’s the verdict on Vietnamese eating western food in Vietnam? Should they also only eat local food? If tays should only eat local and avoid expensive restaurants, are Vietnamese allowed to frequent such places? While on a flight back from Kuala Lumpur recently, I caught a quick 15 minutes of a Jamie Oliver show. I learnt that pies were brought to the UK by the Romans and fish and chips to London by Jews. Meanwhile the hamburger came from the Russians via, of course, Hamburg, and it’s now considered an American staple. This is how food evolves — pho is an adaptation of a French dish.

Boiling Point There is a lot of fantastic Vietnamese food — it’s gloriously fresh, perfectly seasoned and manages to be simple yet creative.

But there is also (whisper it quietly) bad Vietnamese food. Vegetables that are boiled to death, lumps of fat and gristle, appetite-sapping synthetic fish sauce… It would, of course, be a shame for tourists to visit Vietnam and eat only pizza and burgers, but migrants are not tourists. It's fantastic to see all these different types of restaurants opening up in Vietnam right now. In the past week I’ve eaten Indian, Chinese, Italian and American as well as Vietnamese. I’m not advocating big brand franchises taking over Vietnam, but if they do, it’s because there’s a market for them, and if that’s how people want to eat, then so be it. Multiculturalism is supposed to be a good thing, right? In the end migrants are migrants, we establish ghettos, suck at languages and eat our own food. But we should leave the judgemental stuff to desperate, voteseeking politicians and Fox News. — Steve Jackson

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH

TIME TO PLAY MONO/POLY

SHIMMY DOWN & BOOGIE

Grab your poodle skirt and slick up that pompadour, Everyone’s a DJ is back with dance party Shimmy Shimmy Coco Pop on Jul. 6. Keeping the dance floor rolling is Der Vinh and Jake Catlett, returning once again with an impressive collection of 1950s and 1960s music. VJ Discocactus will also be back to provide live visuals for the night. Drink specials will be on offer at La Fenetre Soleil (44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1) including a free tapas plate with any wine or cocktail order from 9pm until 10pm as well as a one free shot per person on entrance from 10pm until 11pm. Entrance before 10pm is free and VND50,000 after.

Philippe LeMaitre, a Belgian-Italian architect, will play sitar and jam with his band Naya Bainda at Geisha (85 Pasteur, Q1) on Jul. 20 at 8.30pm. Guests can also enjoy a special promotion of buy five beers get one free while listening to this unique blend of sounds.

A project by conceptual artist, Sue Hajdu, Fukushima Cabbage is currently running in Saigon. The idea was inspired by the situation in Fukushima, and by the story of an organic cabbage farmer there whose business was destroyed in the wake of the disaster. As a memorial and a meditation on food and energy production, as well as a gesture of solidarity towards the Fukushima farming community, the performance involves the artist visiting your home and cooking a meal with cabbage while discussing the ongoing crisis in Fukushima. There are vegetarian and meat options available, with conversation either in English or Japanese. The project runs from now until Jul. 15 and starts at VND311,000 depending on the number of participants. To book for lunch or dinner, contact fukushima.c.311@gmail.com.

SITAR JAMMING

CABBAGE CHAT

Time to get glitchy as Bakersfield’s own Charles Dickerson comes to Vasco’s (74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1) on Jul. 21. Presented by The Beats Saigon, the Californian’s deejay alias was inspired not by the universally loved board game but by the 1980s Korg keyboard, and symbolises the artist’s multifaceted audio productions. Known for his experimental and multi-genre producing of astral soundscapes with glitch-based hip-hop, Mono/Poly is currently signed to the trend setting Brainfeeder label, home to such electronic heavyweights as Flying Lotus, Daedelus, Mr Oizo and Martyn. Doors open at 9pm and entrance costs VND100,000. Support comes from DJ Jase and a guest DJ yet to be announced

COME TO DADDY 3 Patience is a virtue, and few know that better than understated electronic beat-maker Daisuke Tanabe. Taking inspiration from jazz, folk, and reggae as well as the whole canon of electronic music, the young Japanese national will be playing his laidback brand of electronica for two nights only starting with a free show at Yoko (22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3) on Jul. 18 and followed by a performance at Vasco’s (74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1) on Jul. 19 (entrance VND150,000) with a very special guest––– Support comes in the form of a live set by Indonesian electropop duo Bottlesmoker, while Italian VJ Paki will provide arresting visuals on both nights. Daisuke Tanabe & Bottlesmoker are presented by the institute of Lower Learning (iLL) and The Beats Saigon

July 2012 Word | 9

Just In the talk

the talk

PHOTO BY STEVE BURES

ESCAPE TO THE MOON The Escape Bar has opened at the Blue Moon Hotel & Spa (4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat). The cozy wine and music bar hosts nightly live music with Curtis King and friends, a full international wine list, and a snack/pizza/late night munchies menu. Open daily from 4pm to midnight. Happy hour runs from 4pm to 7pm. For more information, call 063 357 8888 Ext. 5000 or email escapebardalatvietnam@ gmail.com

ENTER THE HUNGRY PANDA New food delivery website Hungry Panda is open and ready for business, with over 120 restaurants to choose from. Singaporean-based Hungry Panda has arrived in Ho Chi Minh City after successfully providing online food services for Thailand, Malaysia, India, Indonesia and Singapore residents. Only a month old, the site is working to increase the range of accessible international restaurants as well as a long list of local Vietnamese restaurants for hungry users to choose from. For more info, go to www.hungrypanda.vn

GET FIT QUICK A new European-standard gym has arrived with 70 cardio machines and 2500sqm of space to get fit in. Open 365 days a year, Fit24 also provides facilities for yoga, group fitness classes and a sauna for post work out relaxation. The centre boasts equipment developed by SportsArt and individual fitness programmes tailored to individual needs by a team of personal trainers. Fit24 is located at Thien Son Plaza, 800 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7. For more info, go to www.fit24.vn

BACK TO SCHOOL The Australian International School is opening its second Early Childhood Centre at Xi Riverview in August 2012. A purpose built educational facility dedicated to children from ages two to four, last month the centre hosted an open house event giving parents the opportunity to visit the facility and meet with staff. For further info, speak to Ms Thanh Do at thanh.do@aisvietnam.com or call 3519 2727

FOLLOW YOUR BLISS Mekong Bliss Spa (112 Pasteur, Q1) has just opened in the centre of town, providing an escape from the stress of daily life as well as a charitable return from your purchase. Qualified therapists provide a full spa service including body massage therapy, Thai traditional massage, foot massage, hand and foot care, facial care, nail care, waxing and spa packages. The Mekong Delta-styled spa uses 100 percent natural products and donates some of its profits to NGO Grandis and Deviens (www. grandisetdeviens.org). For more info call 6299 0563 or go to www. mekongblissspa.com

10 | Word July 2012

BACK TO BACCHUS After two weeks of renovation, wine connoisseurs will be happy to learn that Bacchus Corner is back, now as a wine bar-cum-lounge with double the selection of wine. Returning to its old address at 158 Pasteur in District 1, it has undergone a major refurbishment and now comes complete with a lounge and bar area providing a selection of cold food from restaurants around town as well as an even bigger variety of international wines.

July 2012 Word | 11

The Buzz IRREGULARLY SIZED Colombian artist Luz Angela Lizarazo makes drawings, objects and installations that speak to the feminine condition, the fragility of life, vulnerability and the need for protection. Recurring themes of domesticity and female associations are apparent in the artist’s use of sewing and knitting, jewellery techniques, images such as flowers and birds and her use of materials like porcelain, glass, gauze and human hair. Her images however are not feminine in nature, revealing themselves as deeply disturbing. San Art (3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh) will be showcasing Lizarazo’s work as part of Irregular Hexagon: Colombian Art in Residence, consisting of six one-person exhibitions from Colombia in six institutions around the world. The exhibition will open on Jul. 12 at 6pm and run until Aug. 16. For more information go to www.san-art.org

SILLY MID ON On Aug. 19 an international cricket game will take place in Vung Tau between two teams from Australia who will play the twenty20 format presently making huge strides in the world game. Beginning at 8am, an astro turf pitch is being laid especially for the occasion and all money raised from the day will go to a local orphanage in Vung Tau and the Vietnam Swans football charity Learn to Swim campaign. After the match there will be a gala dinner for the awards with a free flow of refreshments and a buffet dinner with live music. On the day itself there will be refreshments at the grounds as well as a lucky draw. For further info, call Glenn at Tommy’s Sports Bar in Vung Tau on 0907 378523

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ARABIAN NIGHTS A night of a thousand tales has begun weaving. One of the biggest events of the year, the annual, fancy dress Auscham Ball will take place on Sep. 15 at the Intercontinental Asiana Saigon. The Australian Chamber of Commerce is rolling up its sleeves and will be transforming the ballroom into something out of the Arabian Nights including live entertainment and a special four-course Arabian meal. As ever, many of the guests themselves will be providing the cabaret, all making for one of the nights out of the year. For more information and to enquire about tickets, call 3911 0272 or email events@ auschamvn.org

In the Papers

the talk E-TEXTBOOK EDUCATION The Education Publishing House has signed a contract with the Advanced International Company (AIC) to publish the first e-textbook for school education (grade 1 to 12) in Vietnam. AIC staff said the electronic English textbook will be available by the year end and the natural science book will completed by August 2013. They will first be used on a trial basis. E-books on other subjects will be available by 2015. At a recent conference on basic education, many experts said traditional textbooks have become outdated and will soon be replaced by e-books that offer easier access to knowledge and better interaction between teachers and students.

THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

DRIVER’S LICENCE SCAM Hundreds of students have been taking driver’s tests across Ho Chi Minh City, and then handing their new licenses over to a recruiter who changes the names on the cards and sells them to motorbike drivers, according to a Tuoi Tre investigation. A ring leader pays students VND100,000 per license, which he then sells for ten times higher at VND1 million. Much of the operation takes place by SMS. As for buyers, they receive their forged licences a couple weeks after paying. The division that oversees the testing, under the city’s Department of Transport, said these licences are fraudulent.

VIETNAM 2ND HAPPIEST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD Vietnam is the second happiest country in the world, according to a survey by a British think tank, which, unusual for such surveys, has not focused on a nations' economic performance. The New Economics Foundation's Happy Planet Index (HPI) shows the extent to which 151 countries across the globe produce long, happy and sustainable lives for their people. The three component measures of the HPI are life expectancy, experienced well-being and ecological footprint. The countries with the lowest scores are Qatar, Chad and Botswana while Cost Rica beats Vietnam to the happiest country throne. But you could have probably guessed that.

KEEP PLACENTAS OFF THE BLACK MARKET Ho Chi Minh City's Health Department has ordered obstetrics hospitals and those receiving pregnant women to prevent placentas from reaching the black market, reports Tuoi Tre. The order was made following the Health Ministry’s instructions about better controlling placentas as a medical waste, after some Chinese pharmaceutical figures admitted to illegally producing tablets from them. Placentas are used publicly at many salons in Vietnam as one of the ingredients in facial masks. A report by news website VietNamNet in March also revealed a robust placenta trade with the product available at many Chinese medicine shops as a tonic at up to VND250,000 a piece. Doctors said such practices involve a high risk of contracting HIV and Hepatitis B.

14 | Word July 2012

GREENER BUSES IN SAIGON Siemens has signed an agreement with a Vietnamese automaker to manufacture diesel-electric hybrid buses. A prototype of the hybrid system, known as Elfa, will be built this year, Siemens said in a statement. The company said the new technology harnesses the energy that is released through braking. Elfa stores this energy and reuses it when the vehicle accelerates. Elfa buses can also be driven purely by electric power, allowing transport operators to profit from significant fuel savings while dramatically reducing emissions. The Ho Chi Minh City bus system reportedly meets just 10 percent of its transportation needs. The city plans to put 1,680 new buses into use this year, including 300 that run on bio fuel.

July 2012 Word | 15

Word of Mouth

UPGRADE YOUR HOME

50/50 Existing customers who introduce their friends to Smile Dental Center (173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7) in The Crescent will receive 50 percent off consultation fees for their next treatments while newly introduced customers also get a 50 percent discount after receiving the discount voucher. Take advantage of this promotion by Jul. 31. Discount vouchers are valid for up to two months.

16 | Word July 2012

If you would like your home to be controlled by a machine other than yourself, DL Technologies is here to help you. The company specialises in premium home automation/smart home solutions. An integrated technologies company, DL Technologies offers packages and solutions for iPad-based home control, audio video control systems, security and access control systems, lighting management, home theatre and energy management. They will even help you set the mood with background music systems plus many more services. The international team offers local on the ground support from a team of technicians all trained in the newest technologies. For more information, go to www.dltechnologies.com.au

the talk

Wired

CHECK-IN WITHOUT THE QUEUES VietJetAir has gained a jump on its competitors by launching a kiosk check-in option in Vietnam. A great way for passengers to avoid queues when they get to the airport, these new, super fast self check-in kiosk facilities are currently in place at Tan Son Nhat International Airport, Da Nang International Airport, Noi Bai International Airport and VietJetAir’s sale offices in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Seeing as this is a new service in Vietnam’s aviation market, staff will be on hand to help bewildered passengers negotiate the kiosk check-in machines before their mouths froth and brains reject the technological advancement. For added convenience (or extra confusion), the carrier will soon launch a webbased check-in service. Once again, another great way for passengers to avoid the queues. For further info, visit www. vietjetair.com

ORGANISE YOUR NAMECARDS SORTING THROUGH LEANING towers of dog-eared business cards is one of the worst experiences ever, making it near impossible to quickly locate the one person you have to get in touch with before the world explodes in a blaze of charred contact details. Enter CamCard, a life (and career) saving smartphone app for those who have a hard time keeping track of all their business cards. Ingeniously, CamCard takes high quality scans of business cards so users can quickly find their contacts without breaking into a sweaty rage. The take photo button allows users to capture any business card they desire, and select a photo of a business card or copy and paste an email signature to save the contact information to the card holder. The app even manages and syncs business cards across multiple devices with Cloud Sync. Users can share their collection of cards via email, SMS, QRMeCard or QRVCard, rotate the card to view at a different angle, add another side of the business card and edit or add notes to the contact information manually. However, the real fun begins once users tap on a stored business card. A set of buttons appear at the bottom of the screen allowing users to call the contact directly, send an SMS or email, locate the address on Google Maps, connect to the contact’s LinkedIn page or go directly to their homepage. Camcard is available for iPhone, iPad, Android and Blackberry

18 | Word July 2012

IT'S CUT & DRY Founded in London in 1945, Toni&Guy Hairdressing (21 Han Thuyen, Q1) has finally arrived in downtown Saigon to transform a do or two. With 430 salons worldwide, this London born hairdressers is well-known for its work on the catwalk as well as a pre-night out tweak and blow dry. The salon will provide both men and women with a wide selection of services including hairstyling, dying, manicure and pedicure treatments, waxing and permanent straightening. For more information go to www.toniandguy.com.vn or call 6299 0994

July 2012 Word | 19

the talk

GET IN TUNE Gabriel Tran Phuong Nam, the 22-year-old pianist of the Conservatoire National Superieur de Musique et de Danse de Paris, will give a piano recital on Jul. 8 at the HCMC Music Conservatory. The programme includes Beethoven - Sonate a Therese, opus 78, Chopin - Fantasy Fa min opus 49, Nocturne 1& 2 opus 9 and Ravel Gaspard de la nuit (Ondine, Gibet, Scarbo). A contribution of VND100,000 or more for the artist's charity project is welcomed. Ticket distribution points are at Artista Learning Center (92 Xuan Thuy, Q2), Truong Yamaha Hoa Quang (112 Dien Bien Phu, Q1) and Minh NguyĂŞn Piano Boutique (4 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1).

July 2012 Word | 21

the talk

JULY CALENDAR TUE

MON 30

HIGHEST TEA. 2.30pm to 5pm, Mon. to Sat. at Strata

FITNESS CLASSES @ The Boathouse, 8.30am every Mon., Wed. & Fri. Email terronescyril@hotmail.fr for info HAPPY HOUR. From 2pm to 7pm everyday at Chile House (42 Bis Tran Quoc Thao, Q3)

DUST @ Galerie Quynh, from Jun. 22 to Jul. 5. Emai tung@ galeriequynh.com for info

WED

TAPAS FIESTA & WINE through the night. 7.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

LADIES' DAY - free drink for ladies. Every Tue. at Tamagoo

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 8pm every day, except Sun. at Alibi

SALSA CLASSES at 7.30pm & Romantic Night with Carmen & Brothers at 8.30pm. Every Mon. at La Habana DAILY BUFFET LUNCH. From Mon. to Sat. at Strata

22 | Word July 2012

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ SAIGON 1ST BIRTHDAY & HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ WORLDWIDE 23RD BIRTHDAY

STATE OF ORIGIN “THE DECIDER” @ Hog’s Breath MARGARITA MADNESS @ Khoi Thom, 7pm every Wed. SAIGON PLAYERS CLUB NIGHT. Every first Wed. of the month at La Habana. Email saigonplayers@gmail.com for info

GBA MONTHLY MEETING @ Intercontinental Asiana Saigon. Visit www.gba-vietnam.org for info

ITALIAN MOVIES @ Pendolasco, 7.15pm every other Wed. FUKUSHIMA CABBAGE @ your home, from Jun. 25 to Jul. 15. Email fukushima.c.311@gmail.com to book for lunch or dinner MUSIC QUIZ NIGHT @ La Fenetre Soleil every Tue.

LATINO AMERICAN CINEMA @ Khoi Thom, 8pm every Tue.

SUN

LUNA NEGRA’S FAREWELL PARTY @ Saigon Saigon Bar, 9pm

HAPPY HOUR with house wine, beer and cocktail. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Mekong Merchant

SAIGON KIDS PHOTO EXHIBITION @ My Place from Jun. 17 to Sep 16. Visit www.koto.com.au for info

SAT

DAILY VIETNAMESE COOKING CLASS @ Saigon Cooking Class, 10am to 1pm or 2pm to 5pm from Tue. to Sun. Email contact@ saigoncookingclass.com for details

HAPPY HOUR. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck PRIME RIB & WINE COMBO at Hog’s Breath, every Mon.

FRI

HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm every day at Pasha DISCOTEK @ Blanchy’s Tash, 8pm every Mon.

THU

30% OFF ANY BOTTLE OF WINE PURCHASED @ Hog’s Breath, every Tue.

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than July 10 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

LIVE ACOUSTIC NIGHT. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Habana

MODELS AND BOTTLES. 9pm every Wed. at Sin Lounge (22 Le Thanh Ton. Q1) LIVE MUSIC. 6.30pm every Wed. at Al Fresco’s Thao Dien

I AM HIP HOP @ Velvet, 9pm every Fri.

AUSCHAM HCMC SUNDOWNERS @ WE Lounge. Email events1@auschamvn.org for info

SHIMMY SHIMMY COCO POP @ La Fenetre Soleil, 9pm.

KICK BOXING AND BODY COMBAT. 5.30pm to 6.30pm every Thu. & 10am to 11am every Sat. at the Tavern

BAD NEIGHBOUR @ Hard Rock Café every Fri., 9pm

LADIES’ NIGHT. Every Thu. at Bootleg

CAT WOMEN. 9pm every Fri. at Xu

LIVE MUSIC @ La Fenetre Soleil every Thu.

SIZZLE WITH SALSA @ Koh Thai, 6pm every Fri.

SALSA CLASSES at 7.30pm and Jazz Night at 8.30pm. Every Thu. at La Habana

APERITIF BUFFET @ Geisha. 1 free house cocktail for a single buffet order

SBA MEETING @ Swiss Chalet (54 Pasteur, Q1), every 2nd Thursday of the month. Visit www.swissvietnam.com for info

FRIDAY FIESTA. 9pm at La Habana

CUBAN NIGHTS with Warapo Band. 9.30pm every Fri. at Pacharan

HIPS WITH DJ MR.10. 9pm every Fri. at Cloud 9

DJ NIGHTS @ Xu, 10pm every Sat.

SAIGON POKER NIGHT @ Geisha, 7pm

SALSA DANCING @ La Fenetre Soleil every Wed. LADIES NIGHT with Carmen & Brothers’ Live acoustic. 8.30pm ever Wed. at La Habana JAZZ NITE WITH MARIEDEL @ Vasco’s, 9pm every Wed.

COME TO DADDY 3 @ Vasco’s

185,000VND+ 2 COURSE SET LUNCH @ Hog’s Breath, from Mon. to Fri. FABULOUS GIRLS NIGHT OUT @ Level 23 Nightspot, Sheraton, 7pm every Thu. Free cocktails for all ladies

HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at MM Bistro Saigon

GRILL BBQ ROOFTOP PARTY @ Cloud 9, 3pm to 7pm every Sun.

MANGO MOON @ Khoi Thom, 8pm to 11pm every Fri. & Sat.

RACK ‘EM UP POOL TOURNAMENT. 7pm every Sun. at the Tavern

PINOY TRIVIA NIGHT @ Geisha, 7.30pm. Gift vouchers for the trivia winners

SUNDAY POOL COMPETITION. 2pm at Red Bar

AFL GAMES @ The Boathouse, every weekend

COCKTAIL MASTER CLASS WITH RICHIE FAWCETT @ Koh Thai, every Sat. Call 091 233 9138 for booking

GAME ON SUNDAY DARTS at the Tavern

22 FLORISTRY COURSE @ Many Different Tastes Coffee (420 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai), 3pm to 4pm every Sun. MONO/POLY @ Vasco’s, 9pm

VND50,000 SELECTED COCKTAILS @ The Boathouse, 4pm to 6pm every Fri. PERONI FRIDAY’S @ Vino, 4pm to 7pm every Fri.

DAILY BUCKETS OF 5 BOTTLES @ Hog’s Breath

CAMPSOAR. From Jul. 6 to Jul.8. Visit www.campsoarvn.org for info

SEAFOOD & WINE NIGHT FOR VND340,000+ @ Hog’s Breath, every Fri.

DAILY BREKKY INCLUDING BOSSHOG SPECIAL @ Hog’s Breath

NAYA BAINDA @ Geisha. Order 5 beers get one free, 8.30pm

COME TO DADDY 3 @ Yoko

25 THE MIST @ The Opera House, 7.30pm

BOARD GAMES NIGHT @ Geisha, every Thu.

VND250,000+ STEAK AND ALE COMBO @ Hog’s Breath, every Wed.

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm from Mon. to Thu. at Koh Thai

SUNDAY BUBBLY BRUNCH. 11am to 3pm at Strata SUNDAY PAELLAS & HAPPY HOUR. 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana

28 WOOZIE PRESENTS PHONICS @ Vasco’s, 9pm every Sat.

BASH@TASH with DJ’s Glaser & Dan K. 9pm every Fri. at Blanchy’s Tash

LIVE LATIN MUSIC. 8pm every Fri. & Sat. at Khoi Thom

OLD SCHOOL PARTY with DJ Konka. 9pm every Fri. at Boudoir Lounge, Sofitel Hotel

SATURDAY SOCIAL with DJs Timmynator X and Grandmaster Gash at The Tavern

29 IRREGULAR HEXAGON @ San Art, From Jul. 12 to Aug. 6. Go to www.san-art.org for info

July 2012 Word | 23

SCENE

The current DMC Word Champion, DJ Vajra, took Saigon to school with a masterclass performance at Lush. The bar just got raised

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

OVER

THE CHAMP IS HERE

LONE WARRIOR

PHOTOS BY EJ CHUNG

There may have only been one of them, but Stanton Warrior Dom Butler still managed to slay the Lush faithful with a set of relentless breaks

CHEERS, MATE! Winemakers from Australia showcased the best from the Land Down Under to a happily lushed crowd at the Australian Wine Show

BOW TO THE QUEEN

PHOTOS BY CHARLES BARNES

Her majesty's loyal subjects gathered at BIS to celebrate her 60th year of reign with games, a fashion show and live music

PHOTOS BY EJ CHUNG

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

IT'S A-LIVE

24 | Word July 2012

Brian Riedlinger and Vanessa Tantillo played and sang the lead roles of Jamie and Cathy in Dragonfly's production of The Last Five Years

July 2012 Word | 25

Insider

THE ILLUSIONIST / THE CALL OF THE WILD / SAIGON BUCKET LIST PHOTO BY AARON JOEl SANTOS

TALKING SHOP

The Illusionist Dubbed The King of Doves, this magic man has been mystifying audiences with more than just tricks up his sleeves. Words by Robert Stockdill. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

guyen Khuyen, 68, has been pulling rabbits out of a hat for 53 years. But it’s the diligently trained white doves he’s most renowned for — smart birds that emerge from a welltravelled sleeve or perch in a line on his shoulder upon command. Khuyen is respectfully known in magic circles as The King of Doves, a reference to an act he performed for years where 28 doves would appear on stage at the same time. If you see a local magician on stage in Vietnam, especially one making doves appear and disappear at will, chances are they’ve been trained by the king himself — both birds and performer.

Turning Tricks Khuyen first saw a magic trick performed when he was aged 11. “A herb doctor was performing tricks in the market, trying to attract customers and sell his medicine,” he recalls. Perplexed by how the man was making a dummy lying on the ground get up and dance with bare hands and no apparent strings, he went home to ask his grandfather, a professor at a French school, to explain. From then he was hooked. Khuyen soon learned the sleight of hand necessary for card tricks and his first performance was at an end of school year ceremony when he was just 15. Not long after that he was invited to appear at the Diamond Entertainment Centre, where the New World Hotel stands today. In the 1960s, a fresh-faced young Khuyen travelled to Europe to learn off masters of the art and at the end of that decade he was honoured to be recognised as a professor of magic by the International Brotherhood of Magicians (IBM).

Magical Music On the top floor of his five-storey home, hidden away in the back streets of District

28 | Word July 2012

4, Khuyen breeds and trains his famous doves, the only person to do so in Vietnam. When Word visited, he had just shipped 200 to Hanoi, but young doves and recently born chicks are still growing up in rows of cages at his home now, edging closer to their moment under the bright lights on the big stage. He spends two hours a day feeding and training his flock. Khuyen, who has formal accreditation from the authorities as a trainer of magic, still teaches at the Vietnam Circus Arts and Vaudeville Secondary School (Truong trung cap nghe thuat xiec va tap ky Vietnam) in Hanoi, at local schools and at home where he has a complete stage set up for the purpose. “Many magicians in Vietnam are my students, but we really work together as brothers,” he explains. “We support each other and I have introduced many to become members of IBM.” Magic has taken Ho Chi Minh City’s most renowned magician as far afield as France, Germany and Belgium, and later this year he heads to the US for a six-week tour with fellow members of the IBM.

The Family Secret These days, Khuyen is comfortably off, but it wasn’t always that way. “Before 1975, the economy was really hard. I had no money and no equipment because everything we use on stage has to be meticulously made,” he says. “It was very difficult to survive on a meagre income and I nearly gave it up.” Instead, he turned to composing to earn a living, writing traditional Vietnamese music with romantic lyrics under the name Bao Thu. “It wasn’t easy, but I still maintained my passion for magic. When my life became easier and I had the resources, I focused more time on magic, not only for my own pleasure, but for Vietnam’s magicians of the

future,” he explains. “I owe many thanks to the government and my magician brothers for their support and help that maintained my enthusiasm.” Now he hopes he can repay that support by helping all of Vietnam’s magicians to “keep our chins up with the world”. Two years ago he became the inaugural president of the Vietnam Ring 378, this country’s very own magician fellowship. Along the way he found time to raise two daughters and two sons, each of whom have learned tricks since aged four or five. While none chose to follow in their father’s footsteps, they all still help out during his now rare appearances or when he is teaching at home. One daughter hand sews the heavy cloaks with their special secret pockets to house the doves — Khuyen doesn’t trust his magician’s secrets to public tailors.

The Dreamweaver In an age where entertainment seems dominated by special effects conceived in computers, does Khuyen fear for the future of the art of magic? Not at all. “Traditional magic or high tech effects on film are both entertaining, but traditional magic is different,” he explains. “Technology cannot make up for a magician’s skills. It requires special skill with your hands and long, hard training to be a magician. Traditional magic is always attractive and will always surprise an audience.” Khuyen claims to be retired these days, notwithstanding he will soon realise his dream by performing in America. He says he will continue to breed doves and teach his ‘brothers’, but won’t take to the local stage quite so often. Retired? Surely that’s an illusion… For more info about the magician, visit www. aothuatviet.com

July 2012 Word | 29

THE CALL OF THE WILD

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

BUSINESS

here is an oft seen cityscape of Saigon. In the foreground sits the greenery. If the lighting is right and the angle correct, you should be able to make out mangrove palms, tall sweeping grasses, waterways and patches of jungle. And dominating the man-made background, the triumvirate: The Bitexco Financial Tower, Saigon One and Times Square. The image of modernity. It's iconic, the kind of vista you would think can only be taken from one vantage point. But it's not. In the five or so days I spent exploring the area now known as Thu Thiem, I found scores of locations offering up a similar shot. But it's also a vista that is about to transform itself. At the beginning of the year the bulldozers moved in. Houses, shops, public buildings and markets from the four wards making up the Thu Thiem peninsula were razed to the ground. And the communities living there were moved on. And now within a few years the largest unfettered patch of greenery in this metropolis may be a distant memory. In its place will be something equivalent to Saigon South, but in the centre of the city.

Striking Gold

Work on the Thu Thiem Peninsula, the large swathe of mangrove swamp and grasslands in District 2, is set to begin. It marks the reinvention of this city. But change is never easy. Words by Nick Ross 30 | Word July 2012

For an area that is supposed to have been emptied, there is still a surprising amount of activity. Drive down Luong Dinh Cua, the thoroughfare leading from the now defunct Thu Thiem Ferry, to its intersection with Tran Nao, and you'll see it for yourself. Much of the area is rubble, people’s abodes and businesses knocked to the ground. But large numbers of individual properties remain standing. And people, motorbikes, bicycles and cars are everywhere. Not in the abundance of the past. But there is still a presence that exhibits human life at every turn. “They've gone everywhere,” replies one female homeowner when asked about the relocation of the local community. “All over the city. They got paid a few hundred million each and it was enough to find something new.” Her papers weren't in order. So, she's been soldiering on until she can arrange a deal. Elsewhere we find a house that has just been

July 2012 Word | 31

PHOTOS BY PHIL BURNETT

given the all clear. On its roof stand three men, mallets in hand, knocking their way through the concrete, brick and tiling. And to the side sits the bulldozer, its presence ominous, waiting for the moment it can cut its way through the remains of this property. For some, giving into the developers is like striking gold. They’ve held onto their hovel-like properties for years and waited. Waited for the compensation. For others it’s like a wrench, having their soul extracted from beneath them. Within hours whole lives, memories, loves, hates and woes, all reduced to rubble.

Against the Grain That the transformation of Thu Thiem is finally underway marks an important stage in the life on this city. In the 1930s the French looked to develop this area, but after extensive surveys they chose to let it be. Formed from the sediment of two great waterways — the Saigon River and the Dong Nai River — except upon its edge,

32 | Word July 2012

much of the marsh-like land is unsteady. It is below sea level, too, making it prone to flooding. Extensive flooding. Left untouched, during wartime Vietnam Thu Thiem became the impossible-to-control jungle area on the edge of downtown Saigon. A hideout and a hotbed of resistance, the thick mangroves concealed canals and long grasses, making much of the area impenetrable. Now Thu Thiem is at the heart of the city’s struggle to reinvent itself, the final piece to be resolved. Look on a map and you’ll understand why. Sat between District 1 and District 9, this is downtown Ho Chi Minh City but it remains wild, an anomaly. The development that should in the next decade transform this swamp into a mixed residential, commercial and leisure hub, should already be underway. But reinvention in this country requires one set of interests to play itself off against the other. The playing has yet to reach its natural conclusion, meaning that despite

all the good intentions, the majority of this area remains intact. At least for now.

Into the Wild Heading down the non-highway section of Tran Nao, the road winds its way out of urbanized Thu Thiem, across the newly completed East-West Highway and into the swamps. Parts have already been cleared. A foray out here reveals soft, quicksand-like ground that has yet to be prepared for development — the story goes that the land here would need to be raised by two or three metres. With 700 hectares of land making up the peninsula, that’s a lot of soil. The water in here is tidal, too, like the Saigon River. Adding yet another challenge to the already overfull pot. Elsewhere the land has yet to be cleared and nature continues to thrive at its own pace. I head down a path off Tran Nao and find myself driving through mangroves. The foundations of two former properties line the side of the path before it winds its

way up to a bridge. The bridge has been destroyed making the route impassable. Further on I take another side road, this one leading me to the temporary relocation area built for residents of An Loi Dong, the ward on the far side of Thu Thiem that sits opposite District 4 and District 7. Once a bustling port village with residents making their living out of the river, like elsewhere the majority of An Loi Dong has been reduced to rubble. “We’ll be here a few years yet,” says a woman selling coffee who lives in the temporary, fort-like structures. “They’re going to build an apartment block for us, but I think it will take another five years or so.”

Devastation Further on into the swamps down another path through the mangroves I come across a woman in tears. During the night her house, already knocked down but now rebuilt into a temporary shelter, has once again been destroyed. She has two children with her and

a neighbour is helping her to rebuild the roof. It’s difficult to be sure of the true story, but what is clear is that she has nowhere to live. So she has camped out on the land that once belonged to her family, only to find herself in an ongoing battle. Time and time again her shelter has been knocked to the ground. It’s heart wrenching, biting. I try to give her money for food, she refuses. I end up giving something to her oldest daughter instead. It’s not much. But it’s a week’s worth of provisions from the market. “We have no money, no work any more,” she moans. “We fish and get food from the jungle.” She then asks me for help. Again and again. It’s not about money it’s about her livelihood. Rounding the end of Tran Nao and driving through the port in An Loi Dong, I explore the paths heading into the mangrove, finding two pagodas, before taking the river road back towards the EastWest Highway and the tunnel. It is here that I discover yet another unsightly image of destruction. I count a

total of nine pagodas and one church on the peninsular. All have been left standing, given mercy, except one that has been partially knocked to the ground. The altars and incense burners remain. All else has been destroyed. In Vietnam, reverence is given to the religious buildings of the country’s major religions — Buddhism, Hinduism, Islam, Catholicism, Protestantism and Caodaism. So, to see such a building, in an obvious state of semi-destruction, is a surprise. And yet there’s something about this temple, a shrine to Thien Hau (Mazu), the goddess of the sea, which says much about Thu Thiem. There is a desire to knock it to the ground and rebuild, to create something entirely new. To reinvent. But it hasn’t quite happened yet. Progress. That’s what they call it. And by almost universal consent, in this country it’s deemed necessary. But it doesn’t come easily and even Mazu, as she looks over the river and the sea, is holding strong.

July 2012 Word | 33

will receive extensive training in customer service, language skills, computer skills and all technical aspects of their jobs. Who will be monitoring the gambling regulations at the casinos? Will it be done internationally or within Vietnam? Shigley: The short answer to that is 'both'. Locally we must comply with all regulations, and internationally MGM has some of the most stringent compliance standards in the industry. We will be fully compliant to all relevant standards. Since only foreigners are allowed to gamble in this country, who are the foreigners you’re targeting? Those residing in Vietnam or the huge gambling market in China and overseas? Shigley: Vietnam states that only foreign

BUSINESS

Castles in the Sand Except in controlled circumstances, gambling is illegal in Vietnam. Christine Van speaks to Lloyd Nathan and John Shigley of MGM Grand in Ho Tram about their ambitious plan to merge this ‘social evil’ with the ﬁnancial rewards of casino revenues. Photos by Charles Barnes In Vietnam where gambling is frowned upon, why build a casino? Nathan: We are not simply building a casino. We are building a group of luxury integrated resorts, a championship Greg Norman golf course, meeting and convention facilities, high end restaurants, beach facilities, pools, gardens, and everything in between. A major resort destination for all of the family to enjoy. We have already seen in Singapore the ability of casino businesses to be a massive draw for tourists, and the anticipation among the worldwide gaming community for our development is huge. We are looking forward to creating something of immense value to Vietnam and its people. How did you get permission for this project? Nathan: In 2006 to 2007, the government was very carefully considering its own

34 | Word July 2012

views and policies on integrated resorts. We, like most of the other major integrated resort developers and global gaming companies, presented our vision for the Ho Tram Strip, including detailed work from Paul Steelman and other first in class firms. We were very privileged when in March 2008, the government selected Asian Coast Development Ltd. (ACDL) and Ho Tram as Vietnam’s first integrated resort destination. How and why did you choose the Ho Tram beach area? What conditions were you looking for? Nathan: A combination of factors drove the decision. They included the stunning natural location that Ho Tram offers, the foresight and planning of Vietnam’s regulatory authorities for future tourism growth, and the desire to see Vietnam become a major player in Asia Pacific’s integrated resort industry.

How many jobs will this generate for the local community? Nathan: ACDL has currently created 3,500 construction jobs and we will have 4,000 people on site within the next month or so. In addition to this, we have started the process to hire an additional 2,000 people for just the first phase of the MGM Grand Ho Tram. These are just the direct construction and operational jobs. Once you add in the indirect employment creation, you begin to see the incredible scale of job creation. What sort of training has the staff (dealers, waiters, managers etc.) undergone? Shigley: Our training programmes are being customised for the local market and much training is underway now and will be ongoing for the management and staff that we have already hired. As we reach full capacity in the coming months, our teams

passport or foreign residency holders may enter the gaming areas, so the expat community will be a key market for us locally. We will also reach out to the over six million foreign tourists who come to Vietnam annually. On a broader scale, we are looking to a pan-Asian visitor base. Mainland China is key, as are Japan and Korea, Thailand and various other markets in Asia Pacific. There are many visitors from Russia and northern Europe who love to escape to the warm beaches of Vietnam and we will reach out to them as well. The offerings of MGM Grand Ho Tram will be much broader than the excitement of gaming. We are building an integrated resort that has much to offer for the gamer and non-gamer. In Vietnam where the majority of the locals

earn less than VND3,150,000 a month, how do you justify opening up a casino and resort that promotes decadence and gambling? Nathan: We are not interested in promoting decadence and gambling. We are interested in creating a luxury experience as a first of its kind in Vietnam. And we are interested in creating a safe, secure, and regulated environment for adults to game who choose to do so. As you have noted earlier, our casino is not open to locals and I am sure, that should it ever be so in the future, measures would be taken to ensure that only those who could appropriately game would be enabled to do so. MGM is known for their live concerts and performances. What entertainment will you be bringing to Vietnam? Shigley: The MGM Grand Ho Tram will have a year round entertainment calendar. Live concerts, mixed martial arts, music award shows and famous DJs will be featured in our large Ho Tram ballroom. Our Lion’s Bar will feature live music, DJs and dancing six nights a week. MGM in Las Vegas is famous for its year round entertainment and we expect to bring that energy and excitement to Ho Tram. Our Churchill’s Cigar Bar offers panoramic views of the pools and sea, and will also feature a regular schedule of live entertainment. What do you hope to achieve with the MGM Grand Ho Tram? Shigley: We are looking to spread the MGM brand in Vietnam and in the Asia Pacific. We are looking to meet new customers. We are looking to develop the hospitality industry locally, to generate numerous jobs directly and indirectly, and train local people in our industry. We want to be a positive contributor to the local economy and to the local community. Besides the casino, what other facilities and attractions will The Strip offer? Nathan: In its entirety, the Ho Tram Strip will include five five-star resorts, two of which will include casinos. We occupy a stunning 2.2km stretch of beach, nestled in a private bay surrounded by forest. That, in itself, is a wonderful attraction. The total development will feature an 18hole Greg Norman designed championship golf course, world class meeting facilities, a vast array of bars and restaurants, highend spas, retail, pool and beach facilities. Something for all of the family to enjoy. It is a spectacular undertaking for Vietnam, and will represent a world class tourist destination just two hours from Ho Chi Minh City. When is the official opening date? Shigley: We have not set the exact date as yet, but we expect it to be around Tet of 2013. Lloyd Nathan is CEO of Asian Coast Development Ltd. John Shigley is president and COO of MGM Grand Ho Tram.

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COVER STORY

SAIGON BUCKET LIST It's a bizarre irony of living in a city packed with so much to do, but let’s face it. How many things — uniquely Saigon-type things — have you always intended to get around to doing but, somehow, just never found the time? It's okay. It's happened to all of us. Problem is, though, that all of those activities we've never gotten around to doing can — over months, years, even decades — begin to weigh on our minds and prevent us from achieving our full potential as true residents of this city. So, what are the things that a true Saigonese native or adopted native has to do at least once?

With any balanced list there are pros and cons. So we’ve also included things that can cause you to kick the bucket. A kick up the old backside, so to speak. Check the list, have fun, maybe even have a bit of a giggle. But most importantly, stay safe!

PHOTO BY PHIL BURNETT

We've compiled a short bucket list, not in the sense of expensive or faraway or adventurous, but, simply, activities that all of us should do sooner rather than later.

Words by James Allen, Charles Barnes, Stephanie Cantrell, Robert Stockdill and John Thornton 36 | Word July 2012

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S A I G O N

B U C K E T

L I S t :

D O S

keep on the grass

BE A KID AGAIN — Photo by Charles Barnes

— Photo by Charles Barnes One of the more unusual leftovers from colonial era Vietnam is grass skiing (truot co). While it may sound relatively harmless, it’s not for the weak-hearted. Depending on your disposition, you can roll down the first hill on a six-wheeled sledge using reigns to guide you safely. Or not so safely, as the case may be — we witnessed three guys crash and overturn their sled. Alternatively you can strap on white ski boots that are locked into stubby, wheeled skis and slalom down the second hill using ski poles to give yourself the illusion of control. Rides down the hills cost VND15,000 during the week and double that on the weekends. Both mounds are gently graded and the rides are kid-friendly. Although nothing quite compares to the adrenaline-pumping ride up the Hanoi Highway to get to Vuon Xoai (Mango Garden Resort, 114 Ap Tan Cang, Phuoc Tan, Bien Hoa, Dong Nai) where it’s all located. — CB

The hypnagogic and psychedelic Suoi Tien (Fairy Stream) in District 9 is worth the slightly long drive it takes to get there. A theme park paying homage to Buddhism and 4,000 years of Vietnamese culture, giant sized sculptures of sacred dragons, tortoises, monkeys, phoenix, lions, tigers and bears fill the venue. The centrepiece of it all is the Statue of Bodhisattva with a Thousand Eyes and Arms that was erected in 2010 at a cost of VND8 billion. Suoi Tien is believed to be a “legendary place, an uninhabited

land that has a natural stream flowing by [and] has become the land of four supernatural creatures”. This spiritual atmosphere prevails throughout the sprawling leafy grounds. Roller coasters, an enormous water park, lakes with peddle boats, a crocodile kingdom and a dolphin palace with actual dolphins doing tricks. These are just some of the features of this ongoing project. But what sets Suoi Tien apart from the rest are the mass prayer ceremonies and Buddhist festivals held here every month. — SC To experience the good times, visit suoitien.com

go club thumping Your shoes are sticking to the floor, your drink is more ice than alcohol and the overloud music is making the air shimmer before your eyes. This is a typical Saturday night at a local club in Saigon — lounging in a VIP booth with a bottle of spirits, getting served by evening gown wearing hostesses and then waiting until enough alcohol has entered your bloodstream that it’s suddenly time to dance like someone’s chasing you.

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Going clubbing may sound rather innocuous in terms of a bucket list activity, but Vietnamese clubbing is a class apart and a great place to people watch with different orientations, ages and classes all moving to the beats thrown down by the DJs. These clubs are well worth a look, and we dare you to dance. You never know, you might even start something. — JA

SLIDE AWAY

— Photo by Khoa Tran Ice? In Saigon? From sunrise to sunset it rarely dips below 300C and sweat pouring down your face is a daily occurrence. However, Skateland offers an alternative reason for you to perspire. Okay, there’s no real ice and the rink is smaller than the standard ones in the west, but the room is kept air-conditioned at a decent 180C. If you squint you can almost believe it’s the real deal. It’s pleasantly surreal when you’re ice-skating in a tropical climate. Skateland is located on the third floor of the Youth Cultural House (4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1) and is open from 8.30am to 10.30pm. It’s a cheap date, too, costing VND60,000 for 90 minutes, which includes skate hire and basic instructions for beginners. — SC

FIND INNER PEACE

— Photo by EJ Chung The city’s a pretty crazy place and anyone who’s had to battle bikes in traffic or battle off pushy sales ladies can attest to the need to exhale some steam. But there’s no need to head off into the wilderness to find solace and serenity because the Vietnam Buddhist Research Institute is located conveniently close at 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan. Van Hanh Pagoda is home to a weekly meditation session that is attended by local Buddhist devotees as well as interested attendees from overseas. Join 100 peace seekers for a service and meditation session on Sunday mornings from 7am. Sessions are free of charge and led by Mr Tam Duc, vice rector of the university. The sessions begin with a walking meditation followed by a Dhamma (truth taught by Buddha) talk then a sitting meditation. Guidance about concentration is provided for newcomers. It’s the perfect chance to discover a little more about a powerful yet very individual and personal practise. Participants emerge from the sessions relaxed, refreshed and ready to dive back into the city. — SC

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CATCH and RELEASE — Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly Every evening people gather with fishing rods on the banks or bridges overlooking the Saigon River and the many canals and creeks that feed into it. On a good night, amateur fishermen like electronics salesman Bach will catch a healthy anabas (ca ro), pangasius krempfi (ca bong lau) or catfish (ca tre) to take home for the hot pot. But most nights they’re more likely to throw back something not yet large enough to cook or a vast array of sodden plastic bags. Night fishing here is more about socialising socializing than becoming the latest pin-up in The Angling Times. At the mouth of the canal separating District 4 from District 1, a lone vendor does a slow trade in the black beetles and crickets the fishermen use as bait

(VND10,000 for a packet of 10). It’s a quiet night. Nonetheless several fishermen sit around in pairs or small groups, smoking cigarettes and sipping beer. They’ve caught nothing besides plastic bags — and each other’s lines — but they seem to enjoy the camaraderie of men enjoying respite from work and the predictability of domestic life. “After work time, I love to come here, just to relax,” says Bach. “I can enjoy fresh air, the breeze, the serenity and it’s exciting when the fish bite.” If he does catch a large enough fish, Bach will take it home to cook, but only after he soaks it in fresh water for 24 hours to ensure the toxins from the river system are cleared from its bowels. — RS

PUNCTURE THE PAIN

— Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

Those without health or medical insurance take heed because this little-known gem could save you and your wallet from a world of pain. Located in District 1 at the end of Nguyen Trung Ngan just off Ton Duc Thang sits St Paul’s Monastery, a vast and beautifully designed French colonial-era Catholic house of worship that somehow manages to evade public attention. Within its grounds is a small clinic run by ten sweet, elderly nuns who provide specialist acupuncture treatment and Chinese herbal medicines to those who can’t afford modern medical care. Open since 1982, the Dan An Acupuncture Clinic is open Monday to Friday from 7am to 11am. No appointment is required, and all manner of ailments can be treated, from stress-based disorders, muscle and joint pains to cardiovascular

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and circulation problems, and post-stroke rehabilitation. Though treatment is essentially free, the nuns ask those with enough cash spare to pay for their care in order to help with the clinic’s running costs. And considering a pack of acupuncture needles sets you back only VND50,000, it’s a small price to pay. The acupuncture sessions last 15 minutes and involve two styles of treatment depending on the type and severity of the problem/injury; the needles are either inserted into the affected area of the body freely with a Chinese deep-heat numbing spray applied and a heat lamp placed overhead, or connected to a machine where a gentle electrical current passes through the needles to stimulate and release endorphins for the purpose of pain relief. — JT

ATTEND A COUNTRYSIDE WEDDING — Photos by Nick Ross A lot of fuss, pomp and ceremony is thrown into Vietnamese weddings in Saigon. However, forget the red carpet, champagne fountains, celebrity MCs and on-stage speeches. For the real deal you need to attend a wedding out in the sticks. The night before the ceremony represents the closest thing to a stag and hen party in Vietnam, with the bride and groom retreating to their respective family homes for an entire day’s worth of drinking, dancing, eating and hedonistic revelry with their friends and relatives. Well, at least, that’s what the groom does. Those unfamiliar can be forgiven for feeling slightly overwhelmed by all the festivities. If you’re (un)lucky enough to be the only foreign guest, prepare to gorge on a seemingly infinite supply of delicious home-cooked food and imbibe as much rice wine as you can physically stomach, and then some. Everyone will want a piece of you and they do NOT take no for an answer. The live entertainment often includes scantily clad ladyboys stepping up to the mic, serenading the masses. The sight of inebriated country folk grinding up against transvestites while pushing fistfuls of dong in between their plastic breastplates is simply unforgettable. Politically incorrect? Very. Bizarre? Oh yes. Hysterical? Goes without saying. And following a ridiculously early (and hung over) start the following morning for the allimportant nuptials, the whole routine begins again. It’s intense, overwhelming, relentless, exhilarating, not to mention exhausting and the most fun you’ll probably ever experience at someone else’s wedding (or even maybe your own). — JT

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GIVE YOUR TIME

S A I G O N

B U C K E T

L I S t :

D O N ' t S

— Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

Doing volunteering work is a good way to step outside your everyday routine of work, nighttime dining and bar hopping. It’s certainly not for everyone and it can be quite the rude awakening, but the side of Ho Chi Minh City that was previously in shadow brightens up and suddenly your perspective changes. The city, and you, too, begin to grow. You won’t save the world, you may not even get a thank you, but that’s not really the point. Volunteering at a charity organisation, whether it’s an orphanage or hospital, could inspire you to give more of your time. Then again, it could also inspire you to run far away, write a cheque and never return. Either way, it’s worth the time and effort involved in finding out. There are those who believe they have nothing to offer, but luckily being a human and just showing up is all that is generally required. Everyone has something to contribute even if it’s just their compassion. Volunteering may not be for everyone, but giving it a go is the only way to find out. Many couldn’t live in Saigon without it, volunteers included. — JA

DEATH BY DURIAN — Photo by EJ Chung

I HEART snake — Photo by Aaron Joel Santos While this culinary experience will definitely not go down well with animal rights activists, consuming a cobra’s beating heart is a rite of passage for any man who wants to prove his might in this country. Speciality restaurants stock the snakes alive and usually in a deep concrete basin in the back of a restaurant. When a customer orders this slivering dish, a charmer pins the snake’s head down and firmly holds the jaw shut. The first part of the meal consists of the snake’s blood. To extract it, the tip of the tail is cut off and the blood drips into a bowl of coconut juice to prevent clotting. After a sufficient quantity is collected, it is mixed with rice wine, and the soup of blood and wine is now ready to be served as an appetiser. For the main course, the still living snake is sliced open and its cardiac organ quickly ripped out. The heart, still beating, is then rushed over to the table and dropped into a glass of wine/blood/coconut milk concoction. The heart must be consumed before it stops beating, and when both your heart and the snake’s are inside your body. Et voila, your virility and manhood is solidified. — Christine Van Brave eaters searching for their very own rite of passage can find snake at Huong Rung (371A Nguyen Trai, Q1) or Tri Ky (82 Tran Huy Lieu, Phu Nhuan)

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The smell of a freshly cut durian might be enough to make you wish you were dead, but it’s a little known fact that the giant yellow fruit can actually kill you. While we cannot find any documented cases of death by durian in Vietnam, there are several in neighbouring Southeast Asian countries. According to the New Scientist, a study by Japan’s University of Tsukuba concluded durian makes it much more difficult for the human body to break down alcohol, which perhaps might explain why a 68-year-old Thai man died in 2004 after eating durian in a fresh produce market in the northern city of Chiang Mai. Although known to be a heavy drinker, he was reportedly not drinking at the time he collapsed in convulsions after asking

ROAD RAGE Road rules in Vietnam are routinely flouted or ignored — the rule of thumb is whoever has their nose in front has the right of way. You’d think such simplicity would dull any disputes, but it just ensures that when there are arguments, it comes down to who was there first. Picture the increasingly common scenario. Two taxi drivers vye to be first to turn into a small lane. But, with not enough space to accommodate the two of them, one taxi comes to rest less than gracefully against a kerb while the other stops just inches from a terrified pedestrian. Then the rage begins as one taxi

for water. Two months earlier a Thai civil servant died after ‘binge eating’ four durians prompting the Thai Ministry of Public Health to warn its citizens not to consume more than two segments a day. Those most susceptible to death by durian have high blood pressure, heart conditions or diabetes. The ministry also warned not to mix with red wine or coffee as, combined, it boosts blood pressure raising the risk of a stroke. Statistically you may be just as likely to die from a durian falling on your head as from eating four — they’re heavy and have sharp spikes that can do significant damage to your skull. Fruit pickers are advised to wear hard hats. — RS

chases the other for several blocks. At traffic lights, both shake their fists and scream at each other through spittle-showered windows. Fortunately, after a while the anger dies down and the foes go their separate ways. According to a survey by insurance company AXA in the UK, almost 40 percent of drivers involved in accidents were frightened or angered by other drivers moments before a crash. In addition, rage in itself can cause high blood pressure, which can lead to heart failure. So, remember this safety rule. Most drivers will always assume they’re in the right. All making road rage a Saigon thrill best treated as a spectator sport. — RS

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TOILET FISH — Photo by Charles Barnes

TAP OUT OF IT — Photo by Charles Barnes Travellers’ forums are flooded with warnings about avoiding the tap water in Vietnam. Though many people use tap water for brushing their teeth and washing up in the kitchen, bottled water is used for everyday drinking. Vietnam environment website, sustainasia. wordpress.com says that surveys carried out by Sawaco (Saigon Water Supply Company) show an increase in bacteria and ammonia in the Saigon and Dong Nai rivers, which supply water to Ho Chi Minh City. Such high levels of pollution cannot be adequately treated at water plants, making tap water dangerous to drink. Also, in 2011, Reuters reported that 25 percent of drinking wells in the Red River Delta contained dangerously high levels of arsenic, a toxin that can lead to cancer and neurological problems. That’s a pretty extreme outcome, and with other common effects of drinking tap water such as diarrhoea or vomiting, it’s probably best to employ a nice man to drop off your barrels of drinking water for a nominal fee, and save the tap water for flushing the toilet. — SC

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This rudimentary food chain scenario may make your stomach turn. So, before you read on, beware. It’s quite simple. Unable to afford or even necessarily see the point of a more sophisticated indoor toilet system, people use a ‘fish-pond toilet’ where their excrement — faeces, urine and all — drop directly into a pond below and the fish feed off the waste. Pushing the envelope even further, the fish in these ponds are then cooked and eaten. All a long way from the common Vietnamese saying, “Nha sach, ruong ranh”. Clean house, green fields. This is anything but.

The fishpond toilet is a common latrine design for low income households in rural areas and can also be found in the non-urban districts of this city. This is not the first time human excretion has been used to cultivate food. Many years ago, people collected urine in jars and used it for plant cultivation. According to a Sansed workshop at Can Tho University, urine can be a good mineral fertiliser once it’s been acidified. Regardless, it’s highly doubtful that these fishpond toilets would pass a health inspection. And just the mere thought of eating a faeces and urine marinated fish is enough to turn you vegan. — SC

WAITING TO INHALE

A FATAL BARK

Even with the wealth of information that exists globally pertaining to the perils of smoking, in 2012 this city (and Vietnam as a whole) remains rooted in the dark ages. Though Vietnam ratified the World Health Organisation (WHO) Framework Convention on Tobacco Control in December 2004, adding larger warning labels to packaging, and the authorities issued a decision in 2009 banning smoking in healthcare facilities, libraries, theatres, cultural centres, public vehicles and indoor workplaces, a much-mooted smoking ban has yet to be enforced in all public places. The statistics make for grim reading, with 56 percent of the population still keen to light up and as a consequence those in the same area as smokers are more likely to breath in sidestream (the smoke that comes from the end of a lighted cigarette) or mainstream (smoke that is exhaled by a smoker) fumes. Both are classified as a “known human carcinogen” (cancer-causing agent) by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the US National Toxicology Program, and the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), a branch of the WHO. Currently, the authorities are collecting opinions on a draft law proposing further restrictions on tobacco use. The law would extend the existing ban to cinemas, children’s amusement parks, circuses and buses, and call for the creation of designated smoking areas at colleges and vocational schools, offices, cultural and sports roofed stadiums, exhibition centres, restaurants, bars, karaoke lounges, trains and boats. If approved, the new law will take effect in 2013. But will it be enforced? — JT

When Bob Merrill and Ingrid Reuterskiold penned “(How Much Is) That Doggie in the Window?” in 1952, chances are the question wasn’t inspired red by a shared predilection for eating said id mutt. Yet, the relationship between this country and ‘man’s best friend’ is more taboo, bringing a whole different meaning to the term ‘dog treats’. Whether it’s a bowl of thit cho hap (steamed dog meat) or a plate of cho xao sa ot (sautéed dog with lemongrass and chilli), the slaughter of canines for human consumption is a highly divisive issue. Cultural differences aside, the health risks associated with eating dog are very real. Many, if not all, of the dog meat restaurants in Saigon do not slaughter the dogs themselves or possess certificates of origin and quarantine from veterinary organisations, meaning the pooches (usually smuggled into the country illegally from overseas) go untested for any possible diseases such as rabies and vibrio cholerae bacteria (for example, acute diarrhoea that can result in severe dehydration and even death within hours). Alarmingly, cases of both have been recorded in increasing numbers in Vietnam since 2009, according to the Southeast Asia Infectious Disease Clinical Research Network (SEAIDCRN), meaning it’s not the dog’s bite you need to worry about, but your own. — JT

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NO SECOND HELPING Who doesn’t love the food here? It’s quick, cheap, always hits the spot and for the most part it’s healthy, if you discount the deep fried variety. However, you do hear horror stories, and not just from tourists with ‘Delhi belly’. But is it a killer? According to the Vietnam Food Administration there were three reported fatalities in the first three months of 2012. In the first quarter alone there were 16 cases of food poisoning affecting 360 people, of whom 254 were hospitalised. Whereas natural toxins, microorganisms and toxic chemicals were the main culprits in

the case of the 360 effected, one of the most common types of food poisoning lurking in Ho Chi Minh City, according to Victoria Healthcare’s Dr Tuong Nguyen, is e.coli or traveller’s diarrhoea, which causes “acute onset watery diarrhoea starting 24 to 48 hours after ingestion with concomitant vomiting and abdominal cramping”. E.coli generally lasts for around two days, but is by no means the quickest to rear its ugly head after contact. A stealthier type of food poisoning, caused largely by improperly stored food is staphylococci, a nasty mix of intense vomiting and watery diarrhoea, these charming side effects make an appearance as little as one to four hours after contact and can last for two days.

According to Dr Nguyen, the CDC estimates that 79 percent of cases result from food prepared in commercial or institutional establishments in Vietnam. Despite this issue, generally only bigger restaurants in the city hold food hygiene certificates, so it always pays to be vigilant. For any hardened food poisoning veterans in Ho Chi Minh City, it’s all too easy to believe the myth that you can build up a resistance to these kinds of bugs over time. Dr Nguyen insists that although we can get used to strange foods, food poisoning is food poisoning, whether you’ve had it before or not. So, check your food and don’t get caught face down on the porcelain throne. —JA

SHOCK VALUE — Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly It won’t have escaped your notice that this city is covered in miles of black wires hanging from every available vertical structure. The city’s wiring has even become an unlikely icon — so much so that it’s made its way onto the front of t-shirts. As popular as the chaotic mass of cables may be, the authorities plan to move them underground and out of sight by 2020. With the spate of fatalities caused by having live wire so close to the street and the hands of the everyday pedestrian, it’s no great surprise. A recent accident in Tan Binh resulted in the death of 22-year-old Hoang Thi Thanh Truyen. According to Thanh Nhien News, experts blame the failure of the Ho Chi Minh City Power Company’s

THE STING Packed with viruses, get bitten by the wrong mosquito and you won’t just be scratching a small red lump. You may just find yourself on the receiving end of a deadly sting. In Ho Chi Minh City a common threat is dengue fever, and according to Dr Lague from Central Medical Institute (CMI), Vietnam has the highest incidence of the disease around the world. With 60,000 cases reported in 2011 alone, 12,000 were in Ho Chi Minh City, the south of Vietnam being one of the highest risk areas in the country. Cedric Breda first noticed he had the disease when he couldn’t shake a persistent fever. “I remember going out to do

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automatic shutoff system to cut the power in time after a 15 kilovolt wire broke and landed in the flooded street where Truyen was walking. Water and electricity, not a great mix. This was by no means an isolated incident. Low hanging wires have been responsible for knocking motorists unconscious in Hoc Mon, clotheslining unsuspecting drivers in Hanoi, and seriously burning a mother while leaving her four-month-old baby dead. Now that the rainy season is truly upon us, being vigilant while walking or driving around the often flooded streets and paying particular attention to hanging or broken power lines can save your life. — JA

some shopping and coming back exhausted.” He quickly consulted a doctor who confirmed he had contracted dengue fever. The high temperature lasted a week, with visits to the doctor every other day. “We know that a patient has a risk of complication when platelets fall below 50,000 per mm3,” explains Dr Lague. “At this time, it's reasonable to be hospitalised.” After a test confirmed a dangerously low level of platelets, Cedric was admitted to hospital. Treatment for the disease is mostly supportive, as in Cedric’s case, where only medicine to reduce his temperature and a drip to keep him hydrated were prescribed. Although the prevalence of the disease in Vietnam is incredibly high, the mortality

rate is reassuringly low, approximately 0.01 percent, but it’s always worth getting yourself checked out should you notice any early signs like fever, muscle pain, headache and diarrhoea. A characteristic rash similar to measles can develop, but this generally occurs after the early stages of the disease. Despite the low mortality rate, complications can arise and according to the doctor there are four serotypes. So although infection of one serotype will generally give you immunity, it does not count for the other three. But it’s not all bad news, as Dr Lague points out. “In the future, probably in the next few years,” he says, “we will be able to vaccinate and protect against the four serotypes.” — JA

THE ABYSS — Photo by Charles Barnes Canals run throughout Ho Chi Minh City and help keep most of the city above water. Well, they do most of the time. And yet, anyone who lives along these Saigon River tributaries — both man-made and natural — will be familiar with both the proclivity for treating them as mile-long garbage scows as well as backyard pools. And if you've ever been tempted to swim across them either on a dare or as a result of the symptoms of some mental illness, then there are a few things you should consider. The last couple of years have seen a 64-fold increase in the presence of pollutants and a 2.7-fold increase in the presence of

“surface pollution”. That is to say, there's a grab-bag of potentially cancer-causing (or super power-inducing) chemicals in the water not limited to lead, cadmium and mercury — the sweetest of the transition metals. That said, testing done on snake-head fish and water cabbage from the river indicates that fortunately these chemicals are present in “relatively low” amounts. In addition, the vast majority of the pollutants referenced above are excrement. In the city itself as well as upstream, many households, factories and businesses are not yet connected to the ready and waiting wastewater facilities and shunt their toilets directly into these waterways. So, the next time you see a backhoe perched on a barge and dredging the river, keep in mind the horrors contained in each enormous scoop-load of that black, rancorous river bottom. Oh and this writer swam one of the canals and is relatively fine. Though he seems to have developed some super powers. Not that anyone has noticed. The point is, whatever you do make sure your vaccinations are up-to-date and think long and hard before you dip a toe one in any of the city's canals or rivers to cool off. — CB

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HOI AN AND DANANG SPECIAL

DESTINATION

COASTAL GROOVES The ancient The ancient p port ort ttown own o off H Hoi oi A An nh has as b become ecome a m must-see ust-see sstop top o on n aany ny domestic ttourist’s ourist’s visit visit to to Vietnam Vietnam aand nd a regular regular gget-away et-away ffor or d omestic ttourists ourists — both Vietnamese. winning both foreign foreign aand nd V ietnamese. A w inning combination combination of of white white ssand and beaches, off iinﬂ beaches, gorgeous gorgeous ancient ancient architecture architecture aand nd a ffascinating ascinating sset et o nﬂuences uences stemming port, stemming from from its its heyday heyday aass a 116th-century 6th-century iinternational nternational ttrading rading p ort, today today we we discover discover has has a beachside beachside ggetaway etaway that that punches punches above above its its ssmall mall ttown own weight. weight. Heading both up Danang, Vietnam's Heading b oth iinland nland aand nd u p tthe he ccoast oast tto oD anang, V ietnam'ss tthird hird llargest argest beyond her ccity, ity, rrecent ecent SSaigon aigon eexport xport Sarah Sarah Clarke Clarke takes takes us us inside inside aand nd b eyond h er new h new hometown. ometown. P Photos hotos b byy A Aaron aron Joel Joel Santos Santos

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HOI AN AND DANANG SPECIAL

THE THIRD WAY

For a lucky few, Hoi An is their ﬁrst port of call and, quite often, a place to put down roots Trinh Diem Uyen

BLACK BUTTERFLY

Notorious for its miles of tailor shops, time to weave out the best from the rest

oi An has long been synonymous with tailoring. Suits, party frocks, all-in-one terry towelling roller disco jumpsuits — if you can imagine it, they can make it, in no time at all and for next to nothing. Sadly, however, the pursuit of speed and the lowest possible price has also meant that, for the most part, Hoi An isn’t Saville Row. A few savvy stitchers are, however, bucking the trend. Meet Trinh Diem Uyen. A petit fashionista with a gamine haircut, like many of her contemporaries Uyen grew up surrounded by tailors. By the age of 13 she was a regular assistant in her neighbour’s tailoring business, picking up tips and techniques handed down from more senior garment makers. She first started out in fashion in 1994. “Of course at that time there were no fashion schools,” she laughs, “all my training was on the job.” It wasn’t until 2007 that she decided to combine another early childhood

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interest — fabric painting — with her sewing. “I started first with acrylic, but the colours were all wrong,” she explains. After travelling to India where she found the perfect colours, albeit at a less-than-perfect price, Uyen started to create her own dyes from natural products, including sap, bark and leaves. The result is her range of gorgeous hand painted garments (wearable art) all created onsite in her studio-cum-boutique. Never one to stand still, this fashion entrepreneur recently converted the ground floor of her house into a fabric printing workshop to address the difficulty of finding “the right fabric with the right print” here in Vietnam. And her recent signing of a contract to develop a factory and fashion school on 5,000sqm of land will help ensure that the future generation of Hoi An tailors have their customers exclaiming with delight over more than just the price. You can find Uyen’s creations at Papillion Noir30, Tran Hung Dao, Hoi An

TINKER TAILOR So many tailors, so little time. Here are just a few that offer both value for money and quality that is a cut above: DUNG TAILOR 23 Le Loi Tel: 0 510 3863 Since he first opened in 1994, Mr Dung has continued to have all his tailoring done in-shop, rather than outsourcing, allowing him to keep a watchful eye on the quality. LANA ALLURE 90 Le Loi Tel: 0 510 3929 559 One of the few tailors in town who insists on investing more time on their tailoring, leaving you impressed with the garment itself, and not just the speed with which it was finished. YALY 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Tel: 0 501 3910 474 47 Tran Phu, Tel:0 501 3861 119 358 Nguyen Duy Hieu, Tel: 0 501 3914 995 If you’re happy to pay a little more for top-quality craftsmanship, Yaly is the place for you. A fantastic range of imported fabrics coupled with efficient service make this tailoring chain worth every penny.

or the vast majority of foreigners who travel to these shores with a view to staying a while, the key decision is north or south? Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City? What is it that draws people to Hoi An? Undoubtedly, the near-by beaches of Cua Dai and An Bang are a pretty good draw, as is the beauty and history of the Ancient Town. The clean air, the sunshine, the allure of a laid-back beachside lifestyle… there is no doubt Hoi An possesses myriad charms. Perhaps the greatest hook, however, is the opportunities it offers for reinvention: an environment in which taking a risk seems not so, well, risky. The relatively small foreign community gives Hoi An something of a frontier feel. Opportunity abounds, all you need are ideas and perseverance, qualities Gordon and Michele North possess in spades. Having decided to spend a few years in Southeast Asia, the couple were passing through Hoi An on their way to Thailand in 2010. With political unrest in Bangkok making headlines, they decided to rethink their destination, and within an astonishingly short time, they had set up a company, found a teacher to homeschool their kids and had created the Dingo Deli — an air-conditioned haven serving giant plates of comfort food to homesick tourists and expats alike. “We wanted to create the kind of place that we missed when we were travelling,” says Gordon with a smile. The swathes of happy backpackers sipping on their Lavazza cappuccinos — a welcome respite from the ubiquitous ca phe phin — seem pretty happy

with the North’s decision. Another gap in the market, identified by Erwan and Florence Mussou, is that of retail. Seeing a thousand souvenir shops in Hoi An, but distressingly few that actually offered anything one might want to buy, they developed a range of homewares and apparel created out of organic silks and cottons. Metiseko was born, products that speak of Vietnam in dulcet tones.

A Japanese Story Less than a dozen of Hoi An’s small foreign community hail from the Land of the Rising Sun. Hoi An’s ties with Japan go back to the 16th century, when the town was a major port, furnishing Japanese traders with raw silk, swallows nests and precious woods. A remnant of this era — the Japanese Bridge — has since become the emblem of Hoi An. According to legend, a giant dragon lived beneath the seas with its head resting in India and the tail curled around Japan. The backbone of this mighty beast ran through Hoi An. In order to calm and sooth the dragon, and thus prevent the earthquakes that accompanied his tossing and turnings, the bridge was built and within the bridge, a temple. In recent years, the town has once again started to attract Japanese entrepreneurs. Each comes for his or her own reason but they all share a desire to once again build a cultural bridge between Japan and Vietnam. Watching programmes on Vietnam back in Japan, Genta Miyagawa found himself musing that Hoi An might be a good place to

retire. Somehow, for reasons that are not quite clear even to himself, he quit his job almost immediately and headed here. The place and people suited him perfectly though the one thing he missed was Japanese food. From this longing emerged Samurai Kitchen — a sweetly rustic restaurant, just metres from the iconic bridge, which serves home-style Japanese favourites. Right next door, Yoko Ishikawa has created a boutique — Kinu — to showcase her garments, homewares and accessories all created from vintage kimono (making this stretch of road not so much Little Tokyo as Teeny-Tiny Tokyo). After four years in Hanoi, Haruka Matsunaga has made the sea change to help Yoko with her new project — Kisetsu: Hoi An Life Style Boutique & Cafe — with a view to weaving Japanese culture ever more intricately into the fabric of Hoi An. While Yoko has the classic-with-acontemporary-twist side of things covered, Yuki Hirukawa brings the weird and the wonderful straight from her homeland to her gift shop, Cool Japan in Hoi An. Proffering an eclectic mix of souvenirs, gadgets and Manga memorabilia, Yuki has been known to mimic her wares on special occasions. Keep an eye out for her around town sporting one of her various Manga guises. As the foreign community continues to grow, Hoi An may lose some of its frontier feel and abundant opportunity. Yet what it gains is a deepening sense of community, enriched by the cultures and customs of those that have chosen to call Hoi An home.

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DELICATE CRAVINGS

AN AUDIENCE WITH A KING An unforgettable moment with royalty

Hoi An holds a special place in the heart of any gastronome familiar with Vietnamese cuisine

e’re on our way to meet Y Kong, an 88-year-old woodcarver and (former) king of the Co Tu nation. It’s not every day that you get the opportunity to have tea with a (former) king. I’m excited. Dressed as I am in camo pants stained with oil from my Minsk and a black cotton shirt that entirely fails to hide the sweat and the dust, I am hoping that this particular king is not too much of a stickler for protocol. We pull up at a modest concrete dwelling with a miniature bamboo stilt house in the front garden. As we enter we are greeted by a smiling man in a bright orange singlet, his jovial face adorned by a wispy grey beard. This is the king. I feel instantly more at ease. He ushers us first into his workshop, housed in the concrete building. Memorabilia line the walls along with good luck charms and amulets. His coffin, carved by his own hand, dominates one room with its swirling protective totems.

Clockwise from left: Duc, Cao Lau Noodles, Bun Thit Nuong Xoai

t’s difficult to imagine now, but between the late 18th and late 20th centuries, this thriving port town became something of a sleepy backwater, with the major trading port moving to Da Nang, just tens of kilometres north. The influences already gained had an opportunity to meld undisturbed into a unique set of culinary traditions, developed and refined by a community that takes all things culinary very, very seriously. Perhaps the most famous of all Hoi An’s dishes is cao lau. A tangle of noodles, pork and herbs, a symphony of texture and flavours, this seemingly simple dish adds up to so much more than the sum of its parts. The chewy smoked noodles that are central to this dish are argued by some to have been influenced by vendors wishing to fulfil the longing of Japanese traders missing their home-style dishes. Cao lau noodles are, nonetheless, a breed unto themselves, their toothsome chewiness allegedly deriving from the addition of lye to water drawn from an ancient Cham well located just outside Hoi An. Noodles made with water from any other sauce are just not the real deal. Enliven with a dollop of Hoi An’s equally famous chilli sauce and let your taste buds delight!

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To discover a huge range of the town’s delicacies, head to the central market — Cho Hoi An. One end of this recently renovated historic building is dedicated to keeping shoppers and vendors sated. Com Binh Danh stalls teeter with plates and trays offering a vast variety of tasty morsels. Tiny, crispy banh xeo beg to be wrapped with herbs and rice papers and crammed into a hungry mouth. With nothing costing more than a dollar or two, you can graze to your stomach’s content.

Mango Fandango You can’t talk about food in Hoi An without mentioning Duc. The undisputed local master of contemporary Vietnamese cuisine, Tran Duc somehow manages to cram a lifetime of travel and adventure into every one of his eclectic dishes, creating a cuisine that is as unique as he is. Arriving in the US as a teenager, Duc was taken in by a Mexican family in Texas. He spent time in Cuba and Latin America, before heading off to New Zealand, Australia and eventually Europe. Nine years ago, he returned to his homeland and elected to settle in Hoi An; a decision influenced in no small part by the incredible produce — seafood, duck, organic herbs, just

HOI AN AND DANANG SPECIAL

to name a few — available in this small town on the river. Duc’s wandering ways are evidenced in his first two ventures, both in the menu and the decor. Mango Rooms wears its colourful Latin influences up-front and centre (and no doubt raised a few eyebrows in this quietly conservative town). Mango Mango is a little less exuberant, yet still full of colour and movement and joy — like Duc himself. “Food is inevitably influenced by your environment,” he says. These restaurants were created not long after his return and the menu is a distillation of his experiences gleaned as he roamed the globe, while retaining a self-assured sense of integrity. The past nine years, however, have been a return to the fold. He’s gained a deeper understanding of the food of his youth, the food of his roots. A third restaurant is on the horizon. It promises to showcase this new understanding, underpinned by the contentment he has found and no doubt seasoned with his ineffable joie de vie. After all, as the man himself says, “wherever you go... well ... there you are”. Have the Duc experience yourself at Mango Rooms, 111 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street and Mango Mango, 45 Nguyen Phuc Chu

"As we enter we are greeted by a smiling man in a bright orange singlet, his jovial face adorned by a wispy grey beard. This is the king" Moving to the bamboo “receiving room” we settle down for a cup of tea and the obligatory dose of rice wine, sipped from a very ceremonial communal pink plastic cup. His wife joins us. They make a fine looking couple and must have been a force to be reckoned with in younger days. They have been married for 47 years. Y Kong recently stepped down from his formal duties as king, leaving something of a power vacuum — exacerbated by the recent death of the chief of Ba Hom. These days Y Kong spends his days woodcarving. A master carver, he has provided many examples representing the various ethnic groups found in central Vietnam for the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi. Numerous examples of his work line the stilt house in which we sit. Despite my appalling lack of Vietnamese, we manage communication of a sort, aided and abetted by their gracious hospitality, and the enthusiastically proffered rice wine. I am hoping this will not be my last audience with this royal couple.

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HOI AN AND DANANG SPECIAL

Fusion Maia Spa

BEACHES & BEYOND What to do when the allure of your very own tailor-made wardrobe is eroded by endless ﬁttings in 40oC heat?

hose in the know head to the beach for some spanking fresh seafood washed down with an icy cold beer or at least a beer with ice. But those really in the know head to An Bang beach. Just a few short kilometres up the coast from its better known counterpart, Cua Dai, An Bang has become a favourite hangout for locals — both Vietnamese and foreign. Like most hidden gems, it won’t stay hidden for long and even now increasing numbers of tourists are finding their way to the white sands, clear seas and beachside bars and restaurants. While it is easy to get sucked into the languid luxury of the restaurants lining the dunes, take a moment to pull up a mat on the sand around sundown and enjoy

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the beach, Vina style. Every afternoon, at around 5pm, the beach takes on a festival feel as local families hit the sand for a chance to swim and chat, and snack on dried fish. Head for the old ladies with the smoking braziers and make your selection. Eat with chilli sauce and accompanied by giant rice crackers. Delicious!

Island Hopper For those seeking an aquatic expedition, catch a boat out to Cham Island. Cu Lao Cham is actually a set of seven islands, all of which form part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Sadly, UNESCO recognition has turned out to be something of a mixed blessing. The vast influx of tourists that followed the announcement took its toll on an

infrastructure unprepared for such volume. The waters became overfished in order to feed the hungry tourists and the environment was degraded through littering and overuse, with little of the benefits of tourism actually reaching the island communities. Since that time, there have been greater efforts to involve the communities more meaningfully in the development of their islands and to preserve what is left of the marine habitats. Nonetheless, there are still opportunities for snorkelling and scuba diving that offer a fun day out and a welcome break from pounding the pavements in search of the perfect pair of handmade boots.

Resort-a-Rama It seems that not so long ago the stretch

The Hyatt Resort and Spa of road between Da Nang and Hoi An took nearly an hour to negotiate. Small fishing villages dotted the coastline and Marble Mountain was actually home to a community, rather than a conglomeration of stone carving companies. Then, sometime in the first decade of this century, the resort explosion began. One by one the villages were demolished to make way for wall-to-wall luxury. A new highway means you can now you can reach Hoi An in less than 30 minutes from the airport (traffic permitting), gliding by endless temples of leisure in air-conditioned comfort. All of which begs the question: just because you build it, will they come? To the casual observer it seems somewhat optimistic, to say the least. However, according to Hoang Anh, The Hyatt’s marketing manager, apparently they will. “Each resort caters to a different style of guest,” she says. The vast spaciousness of the Hyatt with its internationally recognised brand is very popular with domestic and regional tourists seeking both a change from cramped city dwelling and reliably excellent service. A little further down the coast Fusion Maia, another new kid on the block, has

chosen a different tactic. Much more compact and cosy in scale, each of their rooms is a pool villa, affording their guests a rare sense of seclusion and privacy. Somewhat bijou compared with the behemoth it neighbours, the resort nonetheless exudes a sense of spaciousness and serenity — as to be expected from a resort whose signature service is inclusion of free treatments at their outstanding spa. The majority of their guests are of European origin except during the Vietnamese summer holidays, when Hanoians head to the coast for some much needed rest and relaxation.

Spabulous Fusion Maia quite rightly makes much of their spa. Each guest can enjoy unlimited treatments during their stay with a guaranteed minimum of two per persons per day. The steady flow of blissed-out guests wandering through the spacious spa grounds during our visit suggests that this is an offer most choose to accept. Private treatment rooms, pre-treatment consultations and efficient well-trained staff all combine to create a sense of contented well being.

It’s clear that the inclusion of a spa as a central part of any resort has become almost de rigeur. The Hyatt Resort and Spa has created a mini resort-within-a-resort with a maze of secluded private treatment rooms, swimming pools and serene spaces in which to get your chi flowing and your ying and yang in balance.

Heads I Win Naturally, the benefits of such developments do not come without a cost. Villages along the coast have been relocated to new and undoubtedly less desirable locations, most without access to the sea. For families who have for generations survived on subsistence fishing, this is can be a tough pill to swallow. Advocates of the resort development argue that the employment opportunities afforded by the resorts outweigh the loss of traditional streams of income. This indeed may prove to be correct. Currently, however, many resorts are operating at well below full capacity, leaving their future operations somewhat uncertain. This situation is compounded by the lag in transportation infrastructure. At peak times — such as public holidays and

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HOI AN AND DANANG SPECIAL

MISTY MOUNTAINS Time to leave the pristine beaches of Hoi An for the beautiful mountains of Danang

summer weekends — it can be well neigh impossible to get an air or train ticket from either of Vietnam’s major cities to Danang without booking several weeks, or even months, ahead. Conversely, many resorts and hotels still struggle to reach capacity during what should be their busiest times. The next few years may prove crucial for the future of the region. If the global economy continues its slow and shaky recovery, if new markets of tourists discover this stretch of coastline, if the new Danang International Airport is allowed to function at capacity, the visions of the developers may well turn the sands of this expansive bay to gold.

What’s Up Danang? Danang. A city boasting some gorgeous colonial architecture, sprawling along a curving golden bay, with wide tree-lined avenues — on the surface it sounds ideal. Yet it still somehow manages to receive a bad rap: the place you fly to so you can get the hell out and head somewhere else. Slowly, slowly, however, change is coming. Fuelling the change is the shifting demographic of foreign residents. Previously,

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the vast majority of foreign workers came and went on short-term contracts: not ideal for fostering a sense of community. These days, greater — albeit still small — numbers

"On the surface it sounds ideal. Yet it still somehow manages to receive a bad rap: the place you fly to so you can get the hell out and head somewhere else. Slowly, slowly, however, change is coming" of people are choosing to put down more permanent roots. The upshot of all this is that a few visionary souls are setting up

restaurants, bars and businesses. Places for folks to gather together and forge the bonds that give a city soul. Leading the charge in creating community is Phillip Bossley. Phillip arrived in Danang a little over 18 months ago after 10 years in Ho Chi Minh City and two years in Hanoi. Despite the foreign community currently being somewhat segregated by employment groups, income, nationality and lifestyle, he believes that Danang has “huge potential. It’s a very different choice from Nha Trang [or] Mui Ne and has a much cleaner slate to work from”. Through his company, Silversun, which distributes GoPro HERO cameras, Phillip recently organised Danang’s first sandcastle building competition. Entry was oversubscribed, competition was fierce and the beginnings of a Danang tradition were forged. Currently underway are the Summer Sessions, a series of events held over four months to unearth hidden musical talents. With miles of beach, great food, fresh air and a burgeoning cultural scene, keep your eye on Danang. It just may be the city of the future.

orming the northern curve of Danang Beach, the Son Tra Peninsula wraps a protective arm around the city, sheltering it from the fierce winter storms. Once the site of brutal fighting during the American War, Son Tra still maintains a military presence in the form of naval installations but has now been classified as a national park. The wooded mountain slopes are home to an impressive diversity of flora and fauna, including red-cheeked gibbons and several varieties of langur. Riding up the winding road, the panoramic views take on a mystical lustre in the soaking drizzle. Wisps of mist writhe through the tree trunks and giant fern leaves. If the fairies of legend descended to play a game on the giant flat rock atop Chess Board Peak or to play and bathe at Thien Sa (Fairies’ Landing), they would not seem out of place. At the moment, Son Tra is blissfully untouched, a slice of natural beauty presiding over the vast sprawl of

development below. Rumours bubble away regarding the future of the peninsula and the construction of an InterContinental resort at its base may be an indication of things to come, so take the opportunity to visit while the monkeys still gambol on the mountain.

HAMA Time The sun has already well and truly burned through the morning mist as I meet Mark Wyndham at his garage at 8am. A raft of mechanics is hard at work tinkering with his 35-strong fleet of Minsk and Minskhybrid motorbikes. A former tour leader for Intrepid Tours, Mark settled in Hoi An in with his German girlfriend, Simone (now his wife). Needing a break from working from a big international organisation, Mark quit his job and planned to spend a few weeks or even months planning his next move while taking in some much needed r’n’r. Luckily for him, Simone had other ideas. A talented web-designer (among other skills, Simone is also one of the

founders of Hoi An Events, a destination wedding and event planning company), she created a website almost overnight and Hoi An Motorbike Adventures (HAMA) was born. Mark’s somewhat gruff and sun-lined exterior hides an inquisitive mind with an obsession for all things military and an unexpected attention to detail. He may be the most Aussie man in town (not always, or even rarely, a compliment) but bike tours come with picnic lunches, replete with gourmet sandwiches and a fascinating array of anecdotes and trivia. If there’s a book on the American War that he hasn’t read — send it to him! His years of travelling the highways and byways coupled with his open attitude (not to discount the role of the odd — sometimes very odd — bottle of rice wine) have allowed him to forge friendships with the fascinating folk he meets along the way. All this adds up to a conduit into the history and lives of those in central Vietnam that few get to access.

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OUT & ABOUT

Burn Baby Burn Like it nice and spicy? So do we. That’s why we sent Michael Arnold around town to ﬁnd dishes that pack a punch. Photos by EJ Chung

t the dawn of its evolution, the chilli plant was presented with an intriguing opportunity. If it were able to develop a brightly-coloured fruit that would be delicious to birds (which could spread its seed across the distances) and yet taste foul to everything else, it would enjoy a distinct advantage in the survival stakes. So, its cunning solution was a powerful irritant known as capsaicin, a rather evil substance that binds itself to the precise pain receptors on the tongue responsible for informing the brain that it’s on fire. Tasteless to birds, capsaicin turned out to be the perfect deterrent to all sensible animals until about 7,500 years ago when it chanced upon the one species actually stupid enough to want to make sauces out if it. The Indians stir it into their curries delightedly, the Koreans smear it enthusiastically onto their pickled cabbages, and here in Vietnam, it has become a favourite additive to most kinds of otherwise perfectly yummy noodle soups. Of course, with an increasingly cosmopolitan Ho Chi Minh

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City, we now have such a range of food options available. Which all leads us to the ultimate question. Which restaurant is the most likely to satisfy the inner masochist in all of us? Where, indeed, is Saigon’s spiciest chilli dish?

It’s Muy Caliente! A den of Australiana for the monied blokish beer-drinker, Hog’s Breath Cafe (Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1; pictured above) is an unlikely target for the city’s spice crawlers, but the menu is not entirely unaffected by the chilli pepper, and there are a small number of items that could prove a temptation. Jalapeno peppers are something of a rogue element in TexMex cuisine — promising a lick of flame from the lands south of the border — and the Breath’s chef prepares a fine stuffed jalapeno with jalapeno sauce (VND170,000) that is among the scarier possibilities on their list of appetisers. Fear not. These jalapenos are more divine than devilish. The dish affects an easy balance between the more effete needs of

the international set and those wanting something with a bit more kick to it. Any ferocity behind the half-jalapeno pepper is smoothed out by its stuffing of Monterey cheese, and then only partly restored by a drizzle of pureed jalapeno sauce, applied after the pepper has been crumbed and deep-fried. The result is spicy only to the point of being nicely warm. For any further descent into the fire, a dash of Habanero Tabasco sauce will accentuate the dark nature of the jalapeno and reanimate it somewhat. Voltage: 1/5 Chillies

Things Are Warming Up Hiding out at the end of District 3, Red House (79 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, pictured above) would appear to be a likely candidate for the title of ‘He Who Controls the Spice’. As clean and bright as an operating theatre, the venue is home to Singapore’s most coveted spicy seafood dish — the chilli crab (approximately VND700,000; seasonal). Truly

horrifying to behold, the plate arrives with a monstrous redder-thanred crustacean enthroned on a pool of liquid that looks like molten lava. Roused diners are presented with deshelling instruments that resemble nutcrackers, which are used to shatter the beast’s outer casing open to reveal the flesh. They will then swill this around in the soupy chilli mixture and place it directly into the mouth with insane surgical precision. Suffice it to say that appearances can be deceiving. While a good mouthful of crab meat and sauce will indeed give you a pleasant tongue-roasting sensation, the soup is sweeter than it is spicy, and its angry red is a wash of tomatoes rather than a sea of capsaicin. It’s a tasty meal, and the deep-fried Chinese buns that are its recommended side-dish make for a very nutty texture, balancing the sweet and sour flavours of the main performance. But the little saucer of nuoc mam on the table is frankly spicier than the crab, and the reputation of the latter for scalding the palate is largely a paper tiger. Voltage: 2/5 chillies

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The Heat is On Chairman Mao once conjectured that comrades from his home province of Hunan were so ‘red’ because of all the chillies they ate. Hunanese cuisine, indeed, is the lesser-known evil twin of the worldfamous Sichuanese variety; but whereas the satanic concoctions of the latter are taken awash with crimson scales of dried chilli peppers, Hunan’s hotpots swarm with the brightest red hunks of unadulterated fresh chillies — at twice the heat — like scoops of lipstick. Ho Chi Minh City is deliciously cursed with just one known Hunanese venue — Huong Vien (S59-S61, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7). This restaurant is gorgeous, and is delicately decorated with a myriad of plum-red lanterns like fat juicy apples. The menu promises the full shock treatment of its homeland, and selecting a killer meal won’t appear to be a challenge. The spicy fried shrimp shashlik (VND180,000) sits lost under handfuls of crisply-diced chilli peppers in the photo; while the stir-fried chicken cubes with chilli (VND180,000) are one of the region’s most popular creations. A Hunanese meal should not be without a braised dish; sensitive guests might be advised to forego the braised bull’s penis in favour of the braised Maoshi pork in spicy sauce (VND110,000) — The Chairman’s favourite. The taste is perfect; the chilli a poor performer. The shrimp is touted as the venue’s spiciest dish, but the peppery oil fails to penetrate the meat — although licking at it does bring on gradual waves of pain. The only way to manage a burn from the chicken is to chew it up together with the chillis on the side, and doing so will bring on the immediate punishment that accompanies the knowledge that you’ve just done something really stupid. You’ll then need to douse your tongue in copious draughts of imported Tsingtao beer. The braised pork is the least spicy of the above, but with its juicy layers of fatty meat done to perfection, it’s the best. Superb cuisine, but not spicy. Voltage: 2/5 Chillies

The Flame is Lit Spice’s (27C Le Quy Don, Q3) reputation for its Thai cuisine has increased in the ten years since it first opened. The premises are certainly visually appealing, suggesting just the right balance of ethnic kitsch and fashionable modern design to please both local and international diners, and its very name is enough to generate a certain thrill — this, surely, is going to be a meal that will burn. Finger through the menu and the photos attest to a culinary tradition of outlandish capsaicin overdose. The dishes on the plate are unexpectedly more forgiving. Starting with a delicious hot and sour shrimp soup (VND115,000 / VND165,000), the immediate impression is that this is just an appetiser that is tastier than anything else. It’s only later that a

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thick spicy broth with soft chunks of tofu thoroughly permeated with the raw taste of chilli pepper. You can wash all this down with one of a selection of Korean rice wines, such as the ever-popular soju (VND100,000). None of the above will assault the tongue at first — but believe me, this is all part of a special variety of Korean cunning. It won’t be until halfway through your meal that you start to become aware of a throbbing prickle all over your tongue and deep within your throat that seems on the verge of flash point. When it does ignite, you’ll realise you’ve misplaced your trust in Korean cuisine. Voltage: 4/5 Chillies

And Into the Inferno

(clockwise from above) hot & sour shrimp soup; maoshi pork; fried squid beak; nakji samgyupsal dolpan bokkeum gradual, simmering burn begins to spread across the mouth and the throat, and the realisation sinks in that you’ve been lulled into a false sense of security. The red curry dish (with chicken: VND145,000) works in the same way — it looks more orange than red, and while the flavours are superb, the punishment is only gradual. It doesn’t get much worse than a vague wash of fire that gradually subsides, however, which is a surprise. The restaurant’s Thai chef is notoriously dismissive of local Vietnamese chillies, and American owner Frank Vossen is said to travel to Thailand on a monthly basis to collect genuine ingredients. The resulting fare, probably for these reasons, is irrefutably authentic and absolutely tastes of the genuine article, but this ‘Thai taste’ does not carry over to the chilli. The only conclusion has to be that the chef has been asked to keep the spice at half volume to cater for the more sensitive local palate. Voltage: 3/5 Chillies

It’s Getting Hot in Here Now Vietnam’s own spicy cuisine has its showcase at Oc Dao (212B/C79 Nguyen Trai, Q1), the most unassuming eatery of this collection, and yet the one most frequented by models, actors, and the otherwise well-to-do. All meaning that the car park of this squalid outdoor collection of tables is often incongruously packed with luxury vehicles. The dish on the menu receiving all the superstar attention is rang muc xao (VND50,000) — fried squid beak, the tough curl of tissue at the mouth of the animal, occupying the centre of its twist of tentacles. Most people preparing squid for a meal will throw this part away, but the good residents of Phan Thiet appear to have found a way to eat it, while the thoughtful chefs at Oc Dao have followed suit and smeared some chilli on it for good measure. Fear factor food this is not — in fact, it’s delicious, and you don’t have to pretend to like strange Vietnamese food to agree. While it may look like a collection of tiny

(top to bottom) chettinad with chicken; vindaloo eyeballs, these are chewy and meaty with a mild seafood flavour, and the spicy sauce is unlikely to kill anyone, although every part of your mouth that it touches will probably start to ache within seconds. There is actually a selection of sauces and other dishes too (mostly snails) and you can mix and match — the satay is the spiciest. Try an oc giac xao bo toi (fan-like snails in butter sauce, VND50,000) that tastes like KFC’s chicken popcorn, or the oc mo xao me (chunky snails in sweet tamarind sauce, VND50,000), which is like Chinese sweet and sour pork. It’s all very, very, good, and it never once crosses your mind that you’re eating a revolting animal. Chillies abound; none of them are super-spicy. Promise! Voltage: 3/5 Chillies

So, Time to Get Out of the Kitchen Throw a stone in certain areas of Phu My Hung, and you’ll probably hit a Korean restaurant. Go inside, and everything

you see on the menu will be drenched in crimson — for the Korean is one of the world’s most devoted chilli eaters, and it’s occasionally rumoured that flecks of chilli powder can be found in Korean infant milk formula. The sheer volume of overly melodramatic pop ballads and TV soaps that comes out of Korea might be explained by the accelerated heartbeat most Koreans live with on account of their spicy diet. But the dish said to deliver the most searing burn is nakji samgyupsal dolpan bokkeum, a pork and squid stir-fry on a hot stone, and you’ll find it at Jang Doc Dae (R4-82 Hung Phuoc 3, Phu My Hung, Q7) for VND300,000. It looks innocent enough despite its scattering of fresh chunks of both ot hiem and ot sung trau Vietnamese chillies, and it comes served with large lettuce and sesame leaves, which you can use to wrap the meat together with cloves of garlic to make little vegetable pockets out of. Whet your appetite with a bowl of sundubu jjigae (VND120,000), a

If hell is a bistro, Baba’s Kitchen (164 Bui Vien, Q1) might be it. Enter with a mixture of excitement and fear, because this is one establishment that refuses to pull any punches where the chilli pepper is concerned. Sure, there are plenty of mild curries on the menu if all you’re there for is a pleasant saunter along the friendlier lanes of the Indian cuisine, but lurking prominently amongst these are some far more sinister neighbourhoods densely populated with nocuous peppery delights. A sample of the most unholy of these will inspire every expected physical reaction to the naked chilli — the increased heartbeat, the rapid onset of perspiration, and the overpowering sensation of heat in the mouth. If you're into this kind of thing, select from the tantalising chettinad and vindaloo curries and await your punishment. Be sure to send a message along to Basu the chef that you’ve been really bad — he’ll know what you need. The prawn chettinad (VND105,000) is a fairly authentic version of the southern Indian specialty infused with mulaku peppers, chilli powder, lemon juice and turmeric, and cooked in roasted spices sourced not locally but through Indian community contacts in Phnom Penh and Bangkok. This is possibly Baba’s spiciest curry, and swallowing it gives you the immediate impression that all the skin in your mouth has painfully detached itself and disappeared down your gullet. Not much kinder is the chicken vindaloo (VND95,000), which looks to be a more forgiving meal with its pleasantlycoloured sauce base and friendly-looking potatoes. But this Goan fusion dish is an untamed lion, and it has inspired maniacal devotees around the globe. Both dishes are indeed glorious and worthy of worship by Indian cuisine aficionados, and Baba’s Kitchen is thus one of the most admired and well-attended restaurants of its category in this city. Voltage: 5/5 Chillies

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MYSTERY DINER

ciao bella

This month our full-bellied epicurean feasted on pizza, pasta, brownies, a sandwich, beef goulash, tuna rolls and more, and still managed to survive to tell us the tale

Zest bistro

THE PRICES TUNA ROLLS VND88,000

5 TON DUC THANG, Q1. TEL: 3911 5599

esthetically, Zest is unlike any restaurant I’ve encountered in Saigon; a cross between a North American industrial warehouse (whitewashed breezeblocks, metal support beams and pillars, high ceilings) and a Scandinavian villa (wooden slats), making for an extremely open, cool and airy atmosphere. The wry foodie twist applied to the propaganda-style poster artwork painted onto the walls is equally unique, adding a slight kitschy feel to the surrounds. We order dishes from both the extensive main menu that runs throughout the day and the more condensed evening-only dinner menu. Upon request our appetisers (taken from the latter) and mains arrive simultaneously and promptly. We start with the crispy spicy tuna sushi rolls and steak sashimi with sweet wasabi sauce. Both are exquisite, and make the biggest and best impression of the night. The half dozen tuna rolls come encased in a soft, neutral-tasting batter that allows the freshness of the fish to really shine

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11 DONG DU, Q1. TEL: 3822 3329

STEAK SASHIMI VND105,000 through, while the delicate, paper-thin beef carpaccio-style slices are cooked to a mouth wateringly perfect, medium-rare. Its natural flavour is beautiful, however, once dipped in the accompanying dark wasabi infused liquid, this dish becomes immense, enlivening the nostrils with a potent yet enjoyable fiery rush. Our mains consist of beef goulash and a croque madame. While warm, thick and hearty, I find the former’s beef a tad too chewy. Served with rice to provide an Asian twist on this European staple, the sauce is rich and the mixed peppers possess the right amount of crunch, however, for me, this dish lacks the wow factor of the appetisers. It’s good, but not exceptional. Likewise, the French-style sandwich, served with delicious golden thin cut French fries, has a lot going for it, from the wonderfully fresh-tasting salad and vegetable filling and lightly toasted bread to the deliciously creamy yolk of the fried egg. However, the lack of the advertised béchamel sauce (a vital component) stops this sandwich from achieving true greatness.

That said, the desserts are spectacular. Served in a martini glass, the affogato (Italian for “drowned”) is a coffeebased beverage with a small scoop of vanilla ice cream topped with a shot of hot espresso. It’s strong yet silky and should be an instant hit with coffee lovers. Now, the following assertion may be met with scepticism, but Zest’s chocolate fudge brownie could easily be the best in town. Its dense consistency and almost pudding-soft texture is neither too rich nor too sweet and it literally melts in your mouth. The portion isn’t large, but as the saying goes “keep them wanting more”.

BEEF GOULASH VND125,000 CROQUE MADAME VND88,000 AFFOGATO VND65,000 CHOCOLATE FUDGE BROWNIE VND66,000 THE VERDICT

10.5 12 11 FOOD

SERVICE

DÉCOR

pon discovering I’d be reviewing a New York-style Italian restaurant, images of the rambunctious dining scenes from Martin Scorsese’s iconic 1990 mafia flick Goodfellas instantly came to mind. However, Ciao Bella, with its numerous black and white photos of Hollywood actresses adorning the bare-brick walls couldn’t be further from the gangstersodden stereotype portrayed on the silver screen. Sure, the rat pack can be heard crooning overhead, but in this quaint multi-storey eatery there’s not a single mobster or ex-con to be found among the intimate, candlelit tables. As we take our seats a beaming waitress greets us with a complimentary glass of Prosecco filled with strawberry slices. A breadbasket soon follows accompanied by three side bowls containing balsamic vinegar, thyme and rosemary; roasted garlic cloves; and a white bean, rosemary and lime dip. Each makes for a simple yet highly aromatic pre-appetiser, akin to the type served in tiny family-run Italian eateries across Western Europe. Wanting to make the most of our experience, we order an antipasti, piatti, pasta and pizza dish. The involtini di melanzane (grilled eggplant stuffed with goats cheese and herbs and smothered in tomato sauce) arrives first. Resembling

two small cannelloni, the eggplant is charred to perfection; the intermittent black streaks and slight discolouration of the rolled leaf is a good sign. Never the biggest fan of over-mature goat’s cheese, I’m pleasantly surprised by its mildness here and the silky smooth texture, while the tomato sauce — more crushed and chunky than velvety — possesses a wonderful subtleness. Out next is the margarita pizza. Consisting simply of mozzarella, tomato and basil, any Italian restaurant worth its crust (pun intended) should nail this most fundamental of dishes. And on the whole, Ciao Bella does exactly that. The thin crust base is perfectly crispy and crunchy, providing a solid foundation for the remaining ingredients to impress. More than anything, this is an extremely herby pizza, the slight sweetness and delicate menthol aroma of the basil making up for a lack of tomato sauce. Perhaps kept in the oven a minute or two longer than it should have, this pie is a smidgeon too dry for my liking, though still packed with quality. The half portion fettuccine salmone (smoked salmon & leek with garlic cream sauce) and maiale alla valdostana (parmesan crusted pork stuffed with prosciutto and fontina cheese, marsala mushroom sauce with Tuscan potatoes and sautéed vegetables) arrive together. The former somehow manages to be both rich and salty in taste yet light on the stomach, while the consistency of the pasta is expertly al dente. All of the latter’s constituent parts are divine; the

Tuscan potatoes crunchy and fragrant, the mixed sautéed vegetables (green beans, carrots, courgettes) morishly smothered in glorious garlic and butter, while the meat itself, all moist and thick, is among the very best I’ve eaten at any restaurant in the city. Overall, Ciao Bella can be considered one of Saigon’s finest Italians. Even if it’s THE PRICES a New York version of the real deal. Its GRILLED combination of a EGGPLANT genuinely friendly and VND155,000 attentive waiting staff, MARGARITA romantic ambience, and PIZZA quality food is hard to VND150,000 match anywhere else, let alone beat.

Food, decor and service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15: 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair

SALMON FETTUCCINE VND110,000 PARMESAN CRUSTED PORK VND310,000 THE VERDICT

11.5 12.5 11 FOOD

Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

SERVICE

DÉCOR

LEISURE

A BIRD SONG A wholesome pastime? A lucrative business? An all consuming obsession? James Pham delves into the vibrant world of songbird enthusiasts in Ho Chi Minh City. Photos by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

s he has been doing every day for the past 40 years, Thanh Canh lovingly bathes his little ones, gives them a healthy breakfast, and takes them to the park for a play date along with dozens of equally devoted parents. Only Canh’s ‘children’ aren’t what you would expect. They’re not human. They’re birds. Songbirds to be precise. Canh is one of the city’s thousands of songbird enthusiasts, a subculture within the pet world that has been elevated to an art. The average tourist, or for that matter, longtime resident, can be forgiven for not knowing this unusual pastime even exists as the throngs of bird connoisseurs clear the parks by a little after 9am, leaving no trace of the cacophonous symphony and dozens of cages that occupy the space in the early morning hours.

Something for Everyone One of the most endearing features of the songbird culture is that it appeals to people of all ages and socio-economic levels. Spend a few hours in one of the city’s many parks that cater to avian lovers and you’ll find a surprisingly accommodating environment - parents with kids in tow, husbands with wives, teenagers and retirees like 80-year-old Canh. “I used to have fish,” explains the octogenarian. “Then I had orchids. But you can’t take those out with you. Here, you bring your birds out, enjoy the fresh air, see the same people every morning and make friends over coffee and a shared love of birds.” “I don’t smoke or drink,” he adds with a smile. “This is my vice.” However, this pastime isn’t strictly for the elderly. “I got into birds when I was about 14,” explains 36-year-old

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July 2012 Word | 65

Tran Huy Tuan, a badminton coachcum-songbird collector. “I was living in the country and had a mynah. But then my uncle introduced me to canaries. In his generation, it was popular among the wellto-do to have imported birds. But canaries are hard to take care of and they’re not widely available. Wild songbirds are much hardier and easier to keep. I now have 10 of my own, all different kinds.” Just as their owners are from every walk of life, so too are these feathered creatures. They range in value from VND60,000 for an unproven common species all the way up to several hundred million dong and more. It isn’t uncommon for motorbikes to be traded for prized birds, especially those who are proven champions. The most expensive bird Canh remembers hearing about was sold for VND1.2 billion, a small fortune for a rare albino songbird with serious singing talent. Bird competitions are also organised by various clubs around the city, usually for a top prize of VND5 million or so, but the prestige comes with the trophies. Those that place in the top three stand to fetch their owners a handsome sum. In fact, it’s rare to keep an animal for very long. They’re often traded as owners look for a certain type to fill a niche in their collection. Serious birders also sport serious cages. While most enclosures are made simply from bamboo, others are embellished with intricate carvings or inlaid with mother of pearl, tortoise shell or even ivory, often costing hundreds of dollars.

I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings For those unable to make it to the parks, there are the bird cafes quietly hidden all around the city. Often nameless and without signage, these small coffee shops are known strictly by word of mouth. Most of the owners are themselves bird collectors, like Nguyen Van Lanh, who owns 25 birds. Patrons of his unnamed café in Binh Thanh bring their birds by in the morning, leave them there to socialise with their mates and then pick them up after work. There are no fees other than the reasonably priced drinks. However, some customers come just for the unique atmosphere, sipping a café sua nong while reading the paper against a backdrop of manicured bonsais, a koi pond and 70 or so raucous singers. Nguyen Chi Hung, a 62-year-old xe om driver, enjoys a coffee and a paper here every morning. “I can’t afford to keep songbirds,” he says. “They need a special diet and that’s at least VND5,000 a day. I just like to come here to hear them sing.” Other cafes are reserved for true aficionados and are therefore grittier, not

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much more than a covered open space. Here, certain days and times are reserved for training specific species. And caring for these prized birds often involves a routine of having them bathe in a separate cage, feeding them a mix of live worms and grasshoppers, peanuts, egg yolk, powdered beans and fresh fruit. Canh spends four hours a day as well as his entire pension in caring for more than a dozen birds. However, what sets them apart from your everyday parakeet or lovebird is in the training — the voice is the key. While birds of both sexes can sing, males are preferred because their song is typically louder, clearer and more varied. Training can be accelerated by playing CDs of champion songbirds, classical music and arranging for birds to be in the company of other songsters. Training time varies from bird to bird. “Birds are like people,” says Tuan. “Some learn faster than others. For some, it’s around three months. But to be truly trained, it’s more like two years. The payoff is that a VND180,000 bird can fetch 10 times as much after training.” At Tao Dan Park every morning, owners fastidiously move cages from one place to another on the custom stands to get the best light or to be closer to superior singers. Other coops are placed out in the middle of the yard or on crowded tables to have the birds accustomed to singing around people while the mostly male owners fuss over their prized possessions and eye their next conquests. To them, this unique hobby is definitely not just for the birds.

WHERE TO CATCH THEM While various parks across the city have informal bird associations, in District 1 you’re guaranteed to find a sizeable number of birders in Le Thi Rieng Park and also the southeast corner of Tao Dan Park. Aim to arrive before 8am when it’s busiest. For a friendly bird café where you can mix with the locals, head over to 289 Chu Van An, Binh Thanh, open from 6am to 11am. To witness training sessions for the White-rumped shama, commonly regarded as the opera stars of the bird world, visit the non-descript bird café at the end of the alley at 1 Ngo Duc Ke, Binh Thanh, on Tuesday and Saturday afternoons.

July 2012 Word | 67

y train or ferry you get to see where you're going, unlike planes where you're strapped in like a piece of freight and told to sit still like a naughty child,” says seat61.com creator Mark Smith. “[On a train or a ferry] you can move freely, sleep in a bed, walk around, read, think, watch the scenery, talk and interact with other passengers.” A self-proclaimed ‘career railway man,’ Mark left his native Oxford in the UK to launch a career on the railroads in rural Kent. He worked his way up through the ranks in various guises, and eventually ended up as the UK’s expert on rail fares and ticketing for the Department of Transport in London. In 2001, he launched his website, seat61.com. A one-stop shop for those looking to travel by train or by ferry, seat61.com lists train schedules, fares and general train travel advice for numerous countries across six continents. Mark’s philosophy for the site is split into two parts — the first goal is to help people easily find information on alternatives to travelling by plane, while the second is to inspire people to travel far, far beyond the airport. “Travel should be about journeys, and not merely destinations — you might say it’s like food, which should be about flavours and not just keeping you alive,” he says.

First Class

LEISURE

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68 | Word July 2012

In September 2007, Mark quit his job and began working on the site full time — a move he doesn’t regret. The effort it takes to keep the site running is, according to Mark, much more fun than ‘real work’. Yet 12 years, two books and a TV series proposal later, Mark still protests that he had no idea the site would get this big. “It was a cry in the wilderness, and I didn't really expect anyone to read it,” he explains. “And now it has over one million visitors each month.” Mark’s enthusiasm for train travel in Vietnam is evident from the extensive amount of information available on his website. The Vietnam page, which is always among the ‘top ten most visited’ pages on the site, lists everything you need to know in order to get from Lao Cai to the Mekong Delta. I asked Mark a few more questions about his experiences travelling by train in Vietnam. How do you compare trains and train travel in Vietnam to the rest of the world? In terms of modernity and comfort — we're talking Southeast Asia, not Europe here — I'd say DSVN's airconditioned 'SE' trains are better than many Indian trains, though not as good as Thai trains. Nevertheless, they're an ideal way to get around and see Vietnam at ground level. What are the common misconceptions that people have about train travel in Vietnam? It's all about expectations. Any seasoned traveller who has visited Asia or Africa before will find Vietnamese trains a great way to get around. However, those western travellers who have never been outside their own country before, and who expect to see the world

from westernised airliners, western-standard tour buses and western chain hotels will find them scarily, well, Southeast Asian. They're the real Asia, of course, not the 'tourist Asia', a real means of transport and not a deluxe tourist facility — but then that's the point of using them; to be a participant, not a mere spectator in the country you're visiting. If that sends some people scurrying for the plane, that's a great shame, as the journeys in Vietnam are as much part of the experience as the city sights. Sharing a four-berth also comes hard to inexperienced westerners when it's no real problem and even part of the experience; you may meet some Vietnamese this way. Ironically, the same travellers will happily share a cabin with 400 others trying to sleep slumped in a seat, elbows touching their neighbours’ elbows, knees in the small of someone else's back, on the plane into Vietnam, because that's what they've been conditioned into thinking is ‘normal’! What's your favourite part of the north to south train journey in Vietnam? The coastal section between Hue and Da Nang is easily one of the most scenic sections of railway in Southeast Asia. The train snakes from cliff to cliff with the sea breaking on the rocks below, passing under the higher peaks through a series of tunnels, each with a watchman holding a yellow flag at the entrance. Then it heads inland through a densely wooded valley to the Hai Van Pass itself. Fabulous! What changes have you seen in both the country and the railways since your first visit to Vietnam? I first came in 1999, since then both the quantity and quality of trains has increased significantly. The whole country is far more orientated towards tourism than it was, and in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City it now seems that every erstwhile cyclist now has a motorbike, and every motorcyclist a car. How do you view the interaction between foreigners and the locals on the train? In the tourist cars to Lao Cai from Sapa, you're more likely to be sharing with westerners than Vietnamese, but on the trains between Hanoi, Hue, Da Nang and Ho Chi Minh City you'll likely be with Vietnamese. I've shared a four-berth soft sleeper with a Vietnamese family, and it's always interesting seeing how other people live — and they do ‘live’ on the train, making themselves at home! What's the most extraordinary thing you've ever had the opportunity to eat on a train in Vietnam and worldwide? I always regretted being insufficiently brave to try the sautéed chicken penis at Saigon's wonderful (and cheap) Bo Tung Xeo restaurant. I can't imagine it’s very big, and since then I’ve always wondered if you got a heap of them, or just one, beautifully presented. Last year I returned to Vietnam, and to the restaurant, but sadly the menu is now far less exotic.

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ESCAPE GENERATION V

Alishia Healey, 13, won the fourth Hoa Sen Short Story Writing competition organised by the Australian International School. To follow is her winning story

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“MATKA, DON’T WORRY,” I PLEADED. She was once again fretting over the man that she called “Hitler.” “Zaneta, I am not worrying,” she replied, keeping her eyes trained on the dough. I could still tell she was lying to me, as she was chewing on her lip once again. “Au!” “What is it, Matka?” I asked, running to her side. She had bitten her lip too hard, and it had begun krwawienie. I got an old newspaper, dating to 1940, and began cleaning her bloodied lip, as if she were my child. Matka had been like this ever since Tata left a year ago. The German Police had come to our home and had asked for him. He had packed his bag with tearful eyes, and he gave Matka a movie star kiss. He gave me a peck on the nose as well. He had solemnly said, “I love you.” Then he left. Matka used to be a principled woman, but not anymore. Her eyes were blank, she was very clumsy and she drifted around the house, acting like she had no purpose. She would cry for days on end, and my tummy always began to rumble. I also began to cry, thinking she had forgotten about me. It had been days since we last went out of our cosy little home. There were big, German men around every corner, and they frightened me. They looked all the same, from the uniform to the expressions they wore on their faces. They stared and stared and stared, and they made you feel uncomfortable. Matka loathed them, and swore under her breath every time she set her eyes on them. We were kneading bread the next morning. Matka was barely putting effort into the kneading, her eyes staring at the blank wall and on the verge of tears. I was putting too much effort into it. I was beginning to feel trickles of sweat running down my forehead. There was a quick tapping on the door. Matka wiped her hand on her apron, sending up a cloud of valuable flour. “Matka!” I exclaimed, shooting her a blaming look. She ignored me, and continued to rush towards the door. She twisted the knob, and revealed two burly policemen. “Przegapic,” he began. “You have been ordered by the Fuhrer to evacuate this area. We are going to ship you to… another area.” He glanced at the other man, and snickered. “But we cannot leave,” Matka protested. “You will do as you are told,” the policeman said forcefully, making me want to cower behind my Matka’s back. “But…” There was a sudden swish in the air, followed by a loud smack. Matka wailed. “Matka!” I screamed. I rushed to her side. “You will stay where you are,” yelled the fat policeman, whipping out a small gun. Matka turned deathly pale. “Will you go now?” he asked, seeming

too pleasant. “Let… let us pack a few items,” Matka barely whispered. “You are allowed only 10 minutes.” Matka reluctantly agreed. She ran quickly to our room, and began to pack. I followed suit, and packed my few possessions. As fast as I began, I finished. I grabbed my bear, Tedika, and went to the lounge. Matka was already there; her face was already streaking with tears. I wanted to cradle her in my arms, and tell her everything would be all right. But, it would be no point to tell Matka lies. “You will keep these on at all times,” the first policeman commanded, handing us tight wristbands. They were fuzzy and were uncomfortable. They were tight and made the area you were wearing it on sweaty. It was a dirty white, and had the six-pointed blue star on it. I hated it. It felt like another identification we had to have. Our passports had stamps with big, red Js on them and we had to go to police station to have our identification done. All the females had to have the name Sarah, and the males Israel. The two thugs took us to the centre square and shoved us into the fast moving crowd. My grip on Matka’s hand was broken. I turned my head, my eye scanning the crowd in desperate search for Matka. “Matka!” I screamed, my voice filled with panic and tears. I heard a faint “Zaneta” yelled out, and it was gone. Tears rushed down my cheeks, blurring my vision. I heard policemen shouting and yelling at us, telling us to get on the train, herding us as if we were a pack of animals. I stepped onto a big train. It was already cramped, but people of all ages continued to stream in. I was pushed up against a grubby, greasy window. I pushed it open, trying to rid myself of the smell of sweat that filled the train. A whistling pierced through the chatter and screaming of the people aboard the train. It lurched and began to rumble forwards. I looked out the window, looking at my home for the last time. ***** It was several days before we got off that wretched train. Several days of hunger, crying, dirtiness and noise. The train approached huge gates that had a sense of gloominess. On it, it had said “Arbeit Macht Frei”. The message scared me, sending shivers down my spine. Once the train stopped, guards hollered and yelled, ordering us to evacuate the train or to be shot. Screams rippled throughout the crowd and people began to shove. I got shoved many times, leaving me with big purple, blue and yellow bruises. We entered the camp. It was dark, gloomy, and lifeless. The people that were inside shot us quick, sympathetic glances. Soldiers handed us striped uniforms, each carrying

a different number. They ordered males to continue to the left, and the females to the right. We walked and walked and walked. It was a long brick wall. They stopped us only once, again ordering us around. They told us to change out of our own clothes and put the other clothes on. It pained me to take off my favourite pieces of clothing, but they said if we didn’t follow what they said, they would shoot us. I didn’t want to die. We marched and marched. Dusk till dawn. We finally reached the end of the trail. We arrived at an endless brown plain. There were a small number of barns, and a few brick houses. People were assembled everywhere. Everyone looked like me. Scared. They opened up the gates, and told us to assemble in front of brick building number one. Young people in the front, older people in the back. I was in the middle. A hushed silence fell upon us as a young commander stepped onto the platform. He looked down on us, and scanned through us as if we were rodents or worse, pests. He pointed out some girls, barking orders at the other soldiers to take the girls away. They screamed and thrashed but to no avail. They dragged each girl along the gravel, taking her into the unknown building. I watched the commander and his gaze fell on me. He slowly lifted his finger at me, pointing at me. He looked directly into my eyes, smirking. He snapped the same orders at a soldier and I heard footsteps coming towards me. He curled his fingers around my arms, and I shivered at the contact. I glared at the young, fair blonde. I looked into his sky blue eyes, and shook his fingers off my arms. He let go, and I sauntered off towards the door, holding my head up high. I walked into the plain, white room. It smelt of starch and sweat. The walls were a smudged dirty white. The chosen girls were curled up into balls, eyes fearful and full of tears. I sat myself down, gazing into the wall. I thought of Matka and Tata. I pictured their joyous faces, and broke out into a smile. Still smiling, the young, blonde soldier walked into the room. He darted glances around the room, and pointed at me. I stood up and walked to him. I didn’t want him to see the fear in my eyes. Looking down, I allowed him to lead me into a room full of Germans. I felt their eyes piercing through my body, observing me thoroughly. I held my head up, trying to look brave and confident. “Nächste,” one man bellowed. The young blonde soldier led me out of the building. He looked frightened as he darted glances left and right. He led me down dark, secretive alleyways. He towed me towards a dark expanse of woods. He opened a secret latch and swung the gate open. I looked through, hesitant. He pushed me through the gate and quickly closed it. He looked me in the eye, and suddenly I understood. He turned away and walked off. So I ran.

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AQUA BABES

IN HONOUR OF THE SEASON, WE HAVE TRAWLED THE STREETS FOR SOME MUST HAVE WATERPROOF MAKE UP TO KEEP YOU LOOKING YOUR INVINCIBLE SELF, COME RAIN OR SHINE Photos by CHARLES BARNES Styling by JAMES ALLEN Models: TRUONG KIEU DIEM, HEATHER WOODWARD & PHAM PHAN KIM CHI

Super Matte Loose Powder: VND550,000 HD Blush: VND814,000 Aqua Lip: VND400,000 All from Makeup Forever

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Makeup Forever (L1-56 57 Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1) Givenchy (Ground Fl. Parkson, 35Bis – 45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1)

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Eclat Matissime Foundation : VND1.34 million Le Prisme Mono Eyeshadow 03 Hip Grey: VND580,000 Phenomenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;eyes Effet Extension Mascara: VND800,000 All from Givenchy

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Star Powder (eyeshadow): VND390,000 Aqua Liner: VND650,000 Aqua Smokey Lash: VND648,000 Rouge Artist Intense (lips): VND513,000 All from Makeup Forever

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Need a bike?

Where to Buy One

Where to Rent One

From Honda to Yamaha, and Suzuki to SYM; there are thousands of places to get your hands on one. Here are just a few in District 1: Ben Thanh Honda Motor (48 Tran Hung Dao, Q1), Yamaha 3S Hoa Huy Hoang (321A-B Tran Hung Dao, Q1), Suzuki Saigon Ngoi Sao (14 Tran Hung Dao, Q1), SYM SAVICO (1 Nguyen Trai, Q1). Alternatively you can also find them on the corner of Nguyen Tri Phuong & An Duong Vuong in District 5.

Depending on the brand, year and condition, rental cost can range from VND800,000/month and up. For more info, please refer to our bike rental column on page xxx

Already have one

Want to get it customised?

Lighting/ Electrical/ Audio/ Horn

Piston

If it has problems, can you handle it?

Search along Binh Thoi in District 11 for stores offering lighting and audio systems bike installation. Depends on designs and brands it can start at VND200,000.

I need a repair store!

Fix it Yourself

Locally-owned shacks

Official Garages

Known as “bike market”, Tan Thanh market (68 Pham Huu Chi, Q5) sells everything from footpegs, floorboards and frames to bearings and carburetors, from wheels and axles to filters and mufflers, coming along with many brands. You’ll also be able to find funky parts, however, prices are different from store to store, so the best way is asking around before really buying something.

There are numerous locally-owned garages in the town, giving different prices and qualities. Here are some trustworthy shops: Tai Nguyen Du (24 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1), Phong (left side at the end of De Tham, Q1), Don (corner between Ly Tu Trong & Dang Tran Con, Q1), Dung (corner between Pham Ngu Lao & Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1).

Every brand offers a 3-year guarantee for their clients, you’ll get free check-ups but have to pay for the parts, and prices are always more expensive than at locally-owned mechanics. However, the parts are real and the service is always good and reliable.

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Feel the need for speed? Upgrade your piston at Ky Con in District 1. Prices start at VND2 million.

Painting & Wrapping it Up Make your bike look funky with your own designs and pattern. Also, wrapping help avoiding scratches and protect the colour to keep the paint lasting longer. For decal wrapping, go to Nguyen Chi Thanh in District 5 and Calmette in District 1 ffor o ppainting. or ainting.

READY TO RIDE IF YOU’RE STILL ONE OF THE FEW WALKERS WHO ISN’T PERCHED ON TWO WHEELS, FOLLOW OUR EASY STEPS AND SOON YOU’LL BE WHIZZING BY IN NO TIME

City Guide BUSINESS LISTINGS 080 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 088 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 099 / SOUND & VISION LISTINGS 116 / LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS 122 / LIFESTYLE LISTINGS 130 / GENERATION V LISTINGS 139 PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

AD D I T I O N A L F E AT U R E S

Destination Zero 090 Travel Note 094 Travel Promos 096 Foodie Corner 106 Cafe Critique 112 Food Promos 114 For The Record 117 Road Rules 118 In The Frame 119 Decks 'n' Drums 120

BUSINESS

LISTINGS

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 080 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 080 BUSINESS CONSULTING 082 BUSINESS GROUPS 082 CONSUMER GIFTS 083 EVENT MANAGEMENT 083 EXPAT SERVICES 083 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 083 INSURANCE 084 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 084

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BUREAU VERITAS E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 2196 www.bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions firm working in all the major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC. Has over 900 offices worldwide in 140 countries.

DELOITTE VIETNAM 11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0751 www.deloitte.com/vietnam A member firm of Deloitte Touche

KPMG

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 084 LAUNDRY 085 LEGAL SERVICES 086 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 086 MARKET RESEARCH 086 PUBLIC RELATIONS 086 RECRUITMENT & HR 086 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 086 SERVICED APARTMENTS 087

Tohatsu. Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3827 0220 www.globaleye.com A financial advisory company that advises on everything from investments, offshore banking and education planning to life protection wills, pensions and more. Globaleye provide an invaluable resource for expats living in Vietnam who want to maintain tax efficient savings while having access to major fund houses such as Fidelity & JP Morgan from only VND3 million a month, and also to have the right insurance protection for families living on foreign soil.

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9266 www.kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides executive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED 7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: 3812 5562 www.odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions, as well as tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years of experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES 6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

TMF GROUP Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 2262 TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services.

Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING ADMAKER Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3910 3500 www.admaker.com.vn A local full service agency run by advertising professionals dedicated to providing clients with results orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

BATES 141 VIETNAM Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1 Tel: 3821 8632 www.bates141.com A full service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group. Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 6662 www.bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

COWAN – STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN 16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 3064 www.cowandesign.com Specialising in brand strategy and brand

design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies. Wholly owned with seven global offices — three of which are in Asia and working extensively across India, Southeast Asia and North Asia.

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM 13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn Draftfcb is one of the largest global advertising agency networks with headquarters in both Chicago and New York. Has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries including many in the region.

EDGE MARKETING 1Bis Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 3911 1191 www.edge–asia.com A creative marketing company that matches the results–driven requirements of modern business with the needs of the consumer. Embraces a wide range of modern technology and concepts to help provide a full–service marketing package to their clients.

GREY GROUP 404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3929 1450 www.grey.com/vietnam A full spectrum marketing communications company, Grey Group’s work includes PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Has offices in nearly 100 countries and major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA Villa B,12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: 3740 6388 www.industrialdesignasia.com Offers (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for all products; plastics, consumer products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia. Contact them to get a free quotation.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM 113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1, Tel: 3914 3615 www.marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented campaigns that have been selected as global best practice by both international and local clients.

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9529 www.ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know–how with a worldwide network. Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

PHIBIOUS 7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 6777 www.phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company growing fast throughout Indochina. Now with offices in Saigon, Phnom Penh and an association in Vientiane, Phibious employs over 70 staff that are driven towards helping brands connect and grow in this dynamic region. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3898 1005 www.purpleasia.com A leading independent creative communications company. Offers a wide

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range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

RED | BRAND BUILDERS 10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: 3820 0169 www.red.vn Long established, branding consultancy and marketing agency. From Vietnam to Australia, the red team create and shape unique brand personalities that add impact to international and local brands. The team regularly share industry trends, news and views at red.tm/blog.

RIVER ORCHID Tel: 3925 2538 www.riverorchid.com The only communications network specialising in Indochina including Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade. Riverorchid specialises in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 3 Phan Van Dat, Q1 Tel: 3824 1207 www.saatchi.com 60th among the top 100 global advertising agencies, the company has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world. Services include advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting, graphic design and advertising.

TBWA\VIETNAM Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3824 5315 www.tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, named Advertising Age’s “Best International Network of the Decade” in 2010 and ranked 24th on Fast Company’s 2009 list of “The World’s 50

Most Innovative Companies”. Marketing services include strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

TYA VIETNAM 3rd Floor, Lafayette Building, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3956 www.tya.com.vn Established 1982 in Japan, TYA is a strategic creative agency with a growing network across Asia Pacific. TYA uses this strength to match clients’ diverse business strategies. Their international team offers the TYA brand of strategic creative that strives to satisfy clients' business objectives to the fullest.

XONE FM 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 5341 www.xonefm.com The first independently run radio station in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest and hottest songs in both English and Vietnamese. Has 10 channels throughout the country, in Ho Chi Minh City on 104.5 FM and Hanoi on 102.7 FM. The schedule runs from Monday to Friday from 6am to 9am, 4pm to 11pm and at the weekends between 1pm and 11pm.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS 37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, el: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities

business for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3823 7858 www.bdg–vietnam.com BDG is one of the leading business development and consulting company in Vietnam active in the areas of sourcing & production, strategic marketing and Project Management. Partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open new perspectives, address critical challenges and drive business activities to success in Vietnam. BDG is a private company with four offices in three countries.

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

DL TECHNOLOGIES 69A1 Tran Ke Xuong, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3551 2260 www.dltechnologies.com.au DL Technologies provide premium integrated technology solutions with emphasis on local “on the ground” support from a highly skilled and continually trained international team. Services include background music systems, lighting management and control systems, security & access control systems, premium audio and video with automated controls, discreet audio and video, home theatre, iPad-based home control / audio video control systems, air-conditioning control and energy management systems.

business ERNST & YOUNG 8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

GOLDEN SPEED SEO www.goldenspeedseo.com info@goldenspeedseo.com Get maximum exposure for your website by improving your rankings in search engines like Google. A steady flow of potential clients will visit your site every day once you have achieved a good position on search engines' results pages. Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

GRANT THORNTON 28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants working in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Huong Nguyen is a professional Image Consultant based in Ho Chi Minh City and the UK. An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES (VIETNAM) COMPANY LIMITED 8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3829 6416 www.prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering technical expertise in the areas of data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Specialist intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services. From the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services, include IP filing and management services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com Incorporation of offshore and foreign– owned Vietnamese companies. Opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts, providing licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing. Also provides, investment strategies and administration services for foreign-owned companies based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0904 410884 www.strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL is a strategic solutions provider serving as a long-term strategic partner with senior leaders and organisations in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Focuses on the future, striving to deliver superior results, customer value and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions, derived from a combination of research-based best-practice, consulting and learning with a focus on change, people, strategy and leadership.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD 164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 6291 2205 www.tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia. Their core strengths are corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion, and market research. Offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Thailand, China and India.

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XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402, www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3824 3562. www.amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Ho Chi Minh Chapter, Suite 1A, 1st Floor, TV Building, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0272/ 73/ 74 www.auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group in Vietnam established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating here. AusCham co–ordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations, and promotes profile charity events in Vietnam.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3829 8430 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums about doing business in Vietnam. Offers an array of seminars as well as social and networking events.

NORDCHAM 12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM

launchings, cocktail parties, weddings, or anniversaries.

C3 Floor 5, 21-Century Apartment, 326/1 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh www.pbgvn.com A non-profit, non-government, and non-political organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding, to serve as the voice of Philippine business entities and establish relationships with other business associations in Vietnam.

50/8 Hoa Binh, Q11, Tel: 0165 6392 507 www.mrbouncy.com.vn Mr Bouncy is an inflatable game hire company, offering great products hiring out a number of inflatables such as waterballs, bouncy castles and many more great items for parties and events.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcm.org A group with over 300 members who meet regularly to foster business relations with others in the community, as well as taking part in social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities. Hosts regular networking functions and special events. Membership is VND200,000 per month and allows you access to a wide range of discounts around town.

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: 3744 6996 www.swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a nongovernmental, non-political, non-profit organisation that strives to promote business, economic, cultural activities and other interests of common concern to the Swiss Business Association’s members and the Vietnamese authorities.

CONSUMER GIFTS AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD. 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3824 8364 manish@ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and much more.

EVENT MANAGEMENT EVECOO Tel: 0988 297990 www.evecoo.vn Evecoo provides everything needed to plan, supply, organise, publicise, improve and implement a successful event. Evecoo gives every client specific attention and adds the needed magic to make any event memorable.

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3825 6048 www.galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall in the centre of District 1 has four different ballrooms and a rooftop terrace, professional banquet, catering, and event services. Gala Royale is the ideal place for events such as meetings, conferences, product

MR BOUNCY INFLATABLE GAME HIRE

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO.,LTD 268/3-5 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan binh Tel: 6675 2620 www.vietnam-weddings.com One World Tourism’s wedding planning business offers comprehensive wedding planning services in Vietnam no matter what size or type of wedding. It is offered to couples seeking high quality, attention to detailed planning and resources, wanting to create the wedding of their dreams, no matter what size, style or location.

monthly bill payments, home repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering, computer repair and pet transportation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross–cultural and business awareness training.

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news.

Also does research and management services.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 3529/3530 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management, and support services.

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 4707, www.cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy. For further information email hcmc.info@ ap.cushwake.com.

PHOTO OI! Tel: 01269 502790 www.photooi.com Photo booth rental service that combines digital photography and instant photo printing using only top-of-the-line equipment and materials. Photo Oi! Sets up a booth at any event complete with backdrop and fun props that everyone can use.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to provide the ideal solution for any kind of event.

EXPAT SERVICES CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 7237 www.chumshouse.com A service dedicated to finding people a place to live. With an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference, they can have you moved into a new house within days. Help with motorbike rentals, visas and other information about living in Vietnam is also available. All services provided free of charge.

HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916, www.happy-house.vn Created by a team of Vietnamese and expat professionals, Happy House aims to make life in Saigon easier for everyone by offering practical solutions for a myriad of problems, including

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business EASY SAIGON www.easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

Real value in a changing world

JONES LANG LASALLE VIETNAM 26th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3968 www.joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a financial and professional services firm specializing in real estate. We offer integrated services delivered worldwide by expert teams to clients who seek increased value by owning, occupying, or investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, we work and collaborate closely with our colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to our clients in Vietnam. Our offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

KNIGHT FRANK

business a range of comprehensive real estate services. Known for its efficient and dependable service, it has global connections and expertise in the Vietnam real estate market.

SAVILLS VIET NAM LTD. Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is the leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and many other services.

SNAP www.snap.com.vn A simple, web–based real estate search service. Provides information on rental properties all around the city with full listings available online.

SPOT 18/34b Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 955 877 www.spotvietnam.com Native English speakers specialising in rentals and tenancy management. Spot offers quick and easy complimentary services from start to close.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3520 2000 www.sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and for lease in Vietnam and around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 6777 www.knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896 as a valuations, surveying and auctions business, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

THE NEST

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION

Suite 501, Anh Kim Office Building, 43 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3914 7003 http://vietnam.transpo-property.com Transpo Property specialises in finding a suitable residence for their clients, as well as offering a full range of relocation services including school search, preview trips, orientation tours, and whatever else one may need when moving to Vietnam. Also provides a home search service to expats who are already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas.

48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Hotline: 0989 00 77 00 www.namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions, decorations in HCM city especially in District 2. Supporting the professional services and after–sales.

PLATINUM1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com This American–based company provides

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369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901 www.thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale. Service is orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

TRANSPO PROPERTY (VIETNAM)

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and centrally located facility, in your home, office, or over Skype.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE Tel: 3825 8416, www.interglobalvn.com Offers full hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits. Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. Available for anyone up to 74 years of age. No claims discount available.

IF CONSULTING 1A Me Linh Square, Q1 Tel: 3827 7362 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers to provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3812 5125, www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1800 599 998.

PRUDENTIAL Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL 1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3823 9355, www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP www.ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering ‘real’ alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social

conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

lessons, including extra-curricular activities during the holidays.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: 3820 0623 www.t–wm.com Personal financial planning for expatriates. Portable retirement savings plans for individuals of all nationalities. Tax minimisation strategies. Asset allocation and money management. Debt and cash– flow planning. Life, disability and health insurance. Family wealth protection.

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and central school, in your home, office, or over Skype.

VINACAPITAL

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: 3910 0168 www.vlsstudies.com A leading professional institution specialising in teaching Vietnamese to international students. Courses range from basic conversational Vietnamese for beginners to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as a range of special courses that take in Vietnamese literature, composition and a crash-course 6-hour survival session. Courses range in intensity and classes take place on and off campus.

17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9930 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO EDUCATION & TRAINING 26 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: 3823 3597 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers high– quality and cost–effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

BELL VIETNAM 28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 www.bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM 51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3838 6788 www.ilavietnam.com A foreign owned education and training company that offers a broad range of educational programmes and services such as English language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training, and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

VLS SAIGON

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION (NOTARIZED) 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6678 0914 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

VUS 189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3925 9800 www.vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected non–governmental language institutions in Ho Chi Minh City. The English language

training programmes are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York. Has a number of campuses throughout the city.

LAUNDRY COSMO LAUNDRY & DRY CLEANING Office: 80 Nguyen Khoa, Q4, Tel: 6261 6868 Valet shops: Circle K Store, 15B1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1; 36 Su Van Hanh, Q5; CRII, The Crescent, Q7; Shop & Go Store, RMIT University 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.cosmolaundry.com Cosmo Laundry & Dry Cleaning offers professional and reliable laundry & dry cleaning services for executive officers, expatriates and business associations in Ho Chi Minh City.

MICKEY LAUNDRY 203 Bui Vien, District 1 29 Hung Gia 4 St, Q7 F4 Luong Dinh Cua, Q2, Tel: 2244 4466 Now in three convenient locations, Saigon’s leading laundry does wash and fold, dry-cleaning and ironing, along with a range of specialised services including spot removal, colour dyeing, tailoring, repairs, leather cleaning and business shirt service. Free pickup and delivery.

MR CLEAN 16 Tran Khac Chan, Q1 Tel: 2218 8111 www.mrcleanvietnam.com Mr Clean offers dry cleaning and laundry services for everything from wedding and ball gowns, suede and leathers to suits, shirts and jackets, and handbags and luggage. Repairs and alterations and shoe cleaning are also available. Using an oil-based solvent to ensure longer lasting clean clothes, Mr Clean offers free pickup and delivery and same day service.

L'ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492, www.latelier-anphu.com L’Atelier is a French language centre offering classes in all forms to children and adults, and to French-speaking and foreign residents. Each course is offered in small groups of a maximum of four people or in private class. Classes include spelling and grammar tuition after school, monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), and Vietnamese

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business LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 1717, www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 5585, www.bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provide on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRASERS LAW COMPANY Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com The first legal firm to receive a foreign law company license to operate in Vietnam, Frasers Law Company is an integrated team providing international legal advice in a Vietnamese context on all areas of business and commerce to leading global and local companies investing and operating in Vietnam. Ranked in the top tier of international law firms practising in this jurisdiction. Monthly newsletter available by email. GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL (GLN) A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 8599 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services that combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law. INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established at the end of 2006, the firm assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 8860, www.mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994 with offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the firm provides clients with the full range of legal services in all areas of business including corporate, real estate, banking and finance, and all forms of inward investment.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRAINBOX VIETNAM 5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6920 7405, www.brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn Based in Singapore with campuses located throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes and corporate training to bachelor programmes in finance, business management and tourism and hospitality management, all the way through to the 12-month MBAs awarded by the Australian Institute of Business Administration.

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G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9919 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7. Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development. Well-known for their MBA programme which can be taken both part and full-time.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3822 7727 www.cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

EPINION 11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4 Tel: 3826 8989 www.epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company that operates the largest online panel in Vietnam and offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH 3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6965 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

MEKONG RESEARCH 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 6314 www.mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997. Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices. Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis, and trade promotion.

SYNOVATE VIETNAM 13th Floor, Room 1312, Khumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 6288 8785 www.synovate.com A global market research company that drives competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies. With offices in 64 countries, Synovate combines global research capabilities with a personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific requirements.

NIELSEN CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: 3997 8088 http://vn.nielsen.com Nielsen Holdings N.V. (NYSE: NLSN) is a

global information and measurement company with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties. Nielsen has a presence in approximately 100 countries, with headquarters in New York and Diemen in the Netherlands.

TNS VIETNAM 105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 Tel: 3821 5727 www.tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customised, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MANDARIN MEDIA www.mandarinmedia.net A public relations, marketing and IT company with offices in Saigon, Hue and Portland (USA). Led by a team of seasoned journalists, Mandarin Media generates news and features about your company in English–language newspapers and magazines worldwide.

MASS GROUP 30 Dang Tat, Q1 www.massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand–building consulting.

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: 3838 5517 www.matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility, and media and issues management and training.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA) 1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 2220 2989 www.universalmanagementasia.com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 6291 0462 www.veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues/ crisis management.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS 37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, Tel: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

RECRUITMENT & HR HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is currently one of the top three HR consulting firms in Vietnam, specialising in matching senior level professionals to top opportunities in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Other services include: payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

MANPOWER VIETNAM 8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3911 0950 www.manpower.com.vn Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT 4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3820 3115 www.mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing. Works within a wide variety of industries.

NAVIGOS GROUP 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

OPUS VIETNAM RO 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3827 8209, www.opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups, with over 30 offices worldwide.

ROBERT WALTERS VIETNAM 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 7900 www.robertwalters.com.vn Robert Walters Vietnam offers a highly professional and specialised recruitments service. With 47 offices in 23 countries, Robert Walters holds an established track record with Asia's leading institutions, from multinational corporations to smaller enterprises. The Vietnam office specialises in permanent jobs across these disciplines: Sales & Marketing, Technical Healthcare, Accountancy & Finance, Banking & Financial Services, Human Resources, IT, Supply Chain, Engineering and Oil & Gas Technical.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM (formally Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 9488 www.towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Online jobsearch website with probably the best selection of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS 2nd Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 3454 www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL (VIETNAM) LTD. 9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4. Tel: 3826 7799 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers are the largest regional move management specialists with partners all over the world, with services including door to door moving, housing and school

finding, local and office moves, and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 4237, www.crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 3826 7655 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES – VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 3941 5325 www.logicalmoves.net Specialists in international moves for household goods and used personal effects through our global partner network. Also local, domestic and office moves. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Email Chris Honor at chris@logicalmoves.net for further information.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com Resident Vietnam is the first dedicated relocation company with 11 years of experience in Vietnam and provides full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED 7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: 3826 8850 www.seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam. SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3, Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments for long-term lease, each unit comes fully furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay and range from VND11,825,000 to VND16,125,000 per month. This is inclusive of two gas cylinders, five big bottles of water per month, daily usage of water and parking, thrice-weekly apartment servicing, ADSL Internet, and access to the fitness centre.

CITYVIEW 12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1111 www.cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown with 69 fully–furnished apartments. Facilities include a gym, a pool room, a kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 8888 www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana

Saigon is the InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences with 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area and is part of the brand-new Kumho Link Asiana Plaza, the city’s finest integrated food and beverage complex featuring commercial, residential and luxury shopping arcade.

JASMINE COURT 307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh www.jasminecourt.com.vn Located five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with only 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes. Amenities in each apartment include a 32” LCD TV, DVD player and audio system, in-room safe and wireless Internet with broadband connectivity, and a four-fixture en suite with shower.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3822 6111 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers clients a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steamroom, as well as two on-site restaurants — Shang Palace and Terrazzo Café.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside–apartments.com Four–hectares of nature on the bank of the Saigon River where all can enjoy the lifestyle of a resort with all the luxury amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located within minutes of the downtown area by high speed boat shuttle service.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one– to–three bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes. Have a range of residential facilities including a gym, squash court, business centre and Minimart.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3,Tel: 3823 2288 www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property in Ho Chi Minh City and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9197 www.somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court and Somerset Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

destination

DESTINATION

LISTINGS

DALAT 088 HANOI 088 AROUND HANOI 098 HCMC INTERNATIONAL 089 HCMC DELUXE 091 HCMC MID-RANGE 092 HCMC BUDGET 092 HOI AN & DA NANG 092 HUE & QUANG BINH 094 NHA TRANG 094 PHAN THIET & MUI NE 095

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

PHU QUOC 095 SAPA 096 VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO 097 TRAVEL SERVICES 0987 COLUMNS DESTINATION ZERO 090 TRAVEL NOTES 094 TRAVEL PROMOS 096

has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa and reasonable prices to match. CREDIT

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com This luxurious and tranquil sanctuary of relaxation is nestled on the gentle and picturesque slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Offering 65 rooms from 17 original French colonial villas, rates start at just over VND 2 million++ and rise to over VND6 million++ per night. Top-notch services and facilities include a personal butler on call from 7am to 10pm, in-villa dining and the La Cochinchine Spa with a range of holistic and therapeutic treatments.

BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA CREDIT

$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and every modern amenity, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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HANOI CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

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$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 3827 999 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in the centre of town, this no-frills budget hotel offers 12 basic but nicely decorated and clean guestrooms, all with free Wi-Fi. Rooms start at VND400,000. A coffee shop can be found on the ground floor and the hotel offers airport pickup, bicycle rental, tour information, a laundry service and business centre.

DALAT PALACE

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$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 382 5444 www.dalatpalace.vn Overlooking central Dalat, the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain further afield, the city’s top and most classic hotel still maintains its original 1920s style and charm. Has 38 rooms and five suites, a gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie serving international and local cuisine, a piano bar, Larry’s Bar in the basement and five meeting rooms.

DREAMS HOTEL 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private hotel has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from VND200,000 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

LA SAPINETTE DALAT

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$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat Tel: 3740 7512 www.lasapinette.com Situated in the centre of Dalat’s famous Liang Biang Plateau, La Sapinette is a first class hotel with traditional, French art nouveau-styled décor. Also has a modern commercial centre, complete with stateof-the art facilities, 91 rooms including one and two-bedroom apartments.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat Tel: 063 382 2663 www.thesinhtourist.vn You get door–to–door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it

and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi–Fi connections available.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

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$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Hanoi Tel: 04 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property, this 24-storey, mixed use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com Just on the side of beautiful St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a good, comfortable mid–range hotel. Each of the 10 rooms is fitted with cable television, Wi–Fi and a mini bar. The staff is quite helpful and can arrange tours and tickets to many destinations surrounding Hanoi. With room fees starting at $40 a night, and topping out at $50, the small boutique– style hotel offers quite a deal.

FRASER SUITES

MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

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DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

is a fairly basic place to rest those weary feet, but it’s right in the middle of town.

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 8877 Fax: 04 3719 8811 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com Strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is ideal for expatriates who desire a home close to work, and yet offers repose from the bustle of the city. The gold–standard serviced residence is in the Westlake district, an enclave preferred by foreign executives and their families and close to a good selection of quality restaurants, gourmet food shops and decent bars.

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$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com Located only 50 meters away from Hang Cot, the newly built Marigold Hotel Hanoi elegantly combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with a modernised classic facade. The Mimosa Wine Bar & Pub, an Irish bar complete with nightly live Irish music, is located on the top floor, providing excellent views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Maison d’Hanoi provides an elegant respite from the traffic and noise of the city. They have 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have Wi–Fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.4 million for a guest room to VND4.4 million for a suite.

contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK $ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and home to the well-known national primate centre, the accommodation here is in modern rooms, stilt houses or detached bungalows. Includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre and on the road linking the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude–cruises.com This comfortable yet accurate reproduction of a 19th–century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in small but impeccably maintained cabins. They also offer transfers from Hanoi itself. A great, classic experience.

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GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969 www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) daily, replenished minibar and snack basket service in every room. Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails. CREDIT

HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL $ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com The cheapest European–style place in town, with bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers, also has a second hostel at 9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem (Tel: 04 3935 1890) close to all the latenight Old Quarter bars and eating spots. CREDIT

SOFITEL METROPOLE

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam–aventure.com This eco–village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in 10 houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

LA VIE VU LINH $ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 (Freewheelin’ Tours) info@freewheelin-tours.com www.lavievulinh.com Located 170km northwest of Hanoi and on the banks of Thac Ba Lake, this bamboo-constructed eco lodge close to Yen Bai is situated in one of the most tranquil and visually stimulating areas in Vietnam. Set in a Dao Quan Trang ethnic minority village, accommodation is either in the main stilt-house area or in the rammed earth rooms and starts at VND250,000 per night. Offers a whole host of activities including lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours and walking trips into the surrounding mountains.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com Located in a lush valley home to indigenous Vietnamese minority groups, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is a luxurious alternative to the stilt house homestay accommodation offered close by. Has all the usual western amenities in a beautiful setting and every room has a view of either the mountain, lake, pool or valley.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 03 3384 8108 www.novotelhalong.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one

professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including the pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

HCMC INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth–floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

DUXTON HOTEL

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$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Right in the middle of town, the Duxton deserves its luxury appellation with all the features the tired business executive needs including pool, gym, spa, bar and fine dining. The rooms and suites are luxurious. Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets.

EQUATORIAL

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

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$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1 Tel: 3925 7777 www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn A five-star luxury hotel with 334 rooms and suites, and 53 serviced apartments. Offers excellent services and facilities for both business and leisure travellers, including 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity grand ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool and gym, Japanese and Chinese restaurants, an all day dining restaurant, and 24-hours room service. Also provides city shuttles, airport transfers, city tours, currency exchange, limousine service, ticketing and mail services.

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$$$$ Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Intercontinental Asiana Saigon is an exciting destination in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Personalised services await guests in each of the 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a stylish Presidential Suite. The hotel offers signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Only a ten-minute drive from downtown Saigon, this big and businesslike property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also has some of the biggest banquet facilities in the city and an on-site casino.

LEGEND HOTEL

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$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com You’ll notice the difference when you first enter the lobby here – the architect was in serious atrium mode when he drew up the design. There’s no shortage of space in the rooms, either, and a fine selection of dining, from buffets (the atrium again), to Chinese, Japanese and western.

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$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambience of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL CREDIT

HANOI HILTON

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this five–star is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that once housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top–end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. Presently undergoing extensive renovation.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

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$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 7566 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good no–frills option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact with small but clean bathrooms

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free Internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness centre with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relaxation lounge and VIP massage room.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY $$$ 52 Hang Trong, Hanoi Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Q3 Tel: 3933 0077 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with

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DESTINATION

ZERO

The Coral

NURSERY

On the Malaysian island of Langkawi, Lucy Porter meets the world’s only marine and coral curator n a blisteringly hot and sunny afternoon on the tropical island of Langkawi, a small group of tourists huddle together on a white sandy beach talking excitedly about the fish they have just seen. They shake water out of their hair, peel off their wetsuits and make their way to the bar. Like many people who have just experienced snorkelling for the first time, they are keen to recall their own accounts of what they’ve witnessed over a few drinks. But as I move closer, I realise their enthusiastic gestures are not directed at the azure Andaman sea that laps lazily at their feet, but towards a large pool of water 20 metres inland from the sea shore. I wander over to the water and peer into its glassy depths. It’s not a swimming pool, and it doesn’t appear to be like any of the other ornamental ponds housed inside this five-star hotel.

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A Malaysian man, who looks like he works at the hotel, is floating on his stomach at the far end of the pool. He tells me his name is Randy and it’s his job to look after the water and all that lives in it. His official title is Marine and Coral Curator and proudly tells me that he is the first the hotel has ever had. In fact, he assures me that he is the first Marine and Coral Curator the world has ever seen. “How do you know?” I ask. Because he created the job title himself, he replies. Randy gets out of the pool and towels himself dry. Changing into his onduty attire of trousers and a shirt, he begins to tell the story behind the pool.

Reefer Madness “It all started on December 26, 2004”, he explains. “The island of Langkawi, unlike its Indonesian and Thai neighbours, was untouched by the Boxing Day tsunami as

the surrounding underwater corals acted as a shock-absorber. These, however, were obliterated.” My eye follows Randy’s finger to a shimmering patch of blue water directly in front of The Andaman Hotel. He sadly shakes his head. The hotel’s house reef was no exception. “A year and a half ago, the hotel embarked on a beach clean-up programme to remove the remaining debris caused by the tsunami, and to recycle it into the hotel’s design,” he continues. “The rubble left in the tsunami’s wake was itself causing more damage, as the waves would churn up the dead coral and pelt it at the living reef. This would stunt its growth and eventually kill it. So, around one year ago, the hotel and its staff decided to do more to help the reef and that’s when we started growing our own coral.” He throws an arm behind him towards the pool of clown fish. “That’s when we built this coral nursery; just in the same way you would nurture a sapling and replant it in a forest, we nurture coral snippets and replant them in the sea after they’re fully-grown and healthy.” Randy explains this takes about three years, and the ‘transplanting’ into the ocean is a privilege enjoyed by those staying at The Andaman hotel. “We offer guests the opportunity to glue a cutting of coral to a piece of limestone from those cliffs up there and plant it in our nursery.” He motions to the large outcrop of grey stone that pierce the tranquil sea. “We have invested in underwater cameras with GSP programming, so we can take pictures of the coral in its new home. We then email these photographs to the guest who planted it all those years ago.” He and his team see the project as an educational programme, which is the reason why the hotel is now allowing nonguests to visit the coral nursery and house reef for a fee. “I really do see the project as an educational tool,” concludes Randy as we say our goodbyes. “Only 0.1 percent of the world’s oceans are inhabited by coral reefs, yet 25 percent of all marine life calls it its home. If all we are doing here can influence just one youngster to study marine biology at degree level, then the programme is doing its job!” Hidden amongst Langkawi's ancient rainforests The Andaman hotel is located on a white arch of sandy beach on the northwest tip of island. Non-guests are charged MYR150 (VND987,000) to use the hotel’s five-star facilities, snorkel on its house reef and plant coral in its coral nursery.

destination MOEVENPICK HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.movenpick-hotels.com Located a stone’s throw away from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, this tastefully decorated Swiss-run hotel possesses 278 well appointed rooms and suites, five restaurants and bars, meeting and banquet facilities. The shopping arcade, and popular e-gaming centre make this a preferred option for both business and leisure travellers. CREDIT

NEW WORLD HOTEL

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Bi Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous–looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation as has the ground floor Italian-themed Opera, and Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE $$$$ 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissance–saigon.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus Kabin, one of the best– regarded Chinese restaurants in the city. CREDIT

REX HOTEL

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$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3829 2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history and still possessing a certain fading charm, the Rex is now mainly populated by tour groups, while for the independent traveller it has been comprehensively overtaken in value terms. But its open–air fifth–floor bar is still one of the must–do experiences of the city, and there is now a great gym and spa area on the sixth floor as well. A recent renovation and the addition of the new wing has seen the entry of the top-end designer brands to the shopping arcade of this now five-star property.

SHERATON

French lifestyle, comfort and convenience. This 20–story building in downtown Saigon caters to upscale business and leisure travellers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA

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$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Definitely the hotel with the most – its own shopping hub (including a bank), the city’s second biggest discotheque, several restaurants, a sauna, health club and business facilities, and superb panoramic views over the city when you take time off from all the other activities and make it back to your room.

HCMC DELUXE CONTINENTAL

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$$$ 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental–saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the most classic of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

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$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn This hotel makes you think of words like classic, traditional, vintage and colonial. Overlooking the Saigon River, and recently renovated to international standard, it retains a unique atmosphere

which makes it especially memorable for newcomers to the city. The rest of us just take advantage of its cheap buffet lunches.

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 648/65 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3 Tel: 3846 0263 hotel@mamaison.vn Just a short alley from the Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ma Maison Boutique Hotel caters to demanding clients of both long–term expats and French art aficionados. The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in–house guests on a French farmhouse wood table surrounded by modern leather and ladder–back chairs. Ma Maison provides full services– business centre, internet, housekeeping, laundry, room service and limousine. CREDIT

NORFOLK HOTEL

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$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 info@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Located minutes away from famous landmarks, shops, restaurants and international companies, Norfolk Hotel is a good choice for buisness and leisure travellers. Recently renovated the sleek new design is reflected in the lobby space and in their ground floor bar and steakhouse, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3822 4479 www.novotel.com Novotel Saigon Centre features 247 CREDIT

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first–class facilities topped by an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is the ultimate in

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service

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www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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destination

ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTURES Soc Son Tel: 0164 3876 594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 06 1366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

JUNGLE BEACH Nha Trang Tel: 05 8362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

LA VIE VU LINH Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

MANGO BAY Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 07 7398 1693 www.mangobayphuquoc.com

MEKONG LODGE An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

MIA NHA TRANG Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com

PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT Ha Giang Tel: 0219 38 33 3565 www.panhou-village.com

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 05 8372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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contemporary rooms, an international buffet restaurant – The Square, a lobby lounge, a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including swimming pool, fitness, sauna and spa. With five meeting rooms and over 400m2 of space that can accommodate up to 350 persons, Novotel Saigon Centre provides expert support teams and facilities that will ensure successful business meetings and events.

RAMANA HOTEL

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club. The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2km from the city centre and 3km from the airport.

SABENA HOTEL

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$$$ R3–60 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 1000 www.sabena.vn Located on a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the brand–new rooms at Sabena are equipped with all the latest in–room technology perfect for making your room a combined office and home away from home. A good choice for anyone seeking accommodation away from downtown Saigon.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

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$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3999 8888 www.starcitysaigon.vn A brand new hotel located near Tan Son Nhat International Airport with 185 guest rooms each with city views and comfortably designed outdoor swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, restaurant, bars and meeting rooms that cater to 400 people.

HCMC MID-RANGE KIM DO ROYAL CITY HOTEL

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid– range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

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$ 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3 Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn Though possessing only five rooms, Cam Ly’s hotel section comes very reasonably priced. A double room costs under VND400,000 per night while a large double room and a twin room are both priced at under VND700,000. With 24-hour security, all rooms come with cable television and ADSL Internet access. For cleanliness, comfort and safety, Cam Ly is one of the best no-frills options in the city. See our Business listings for an overview of Cam Ly’s studio apartments. DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi–Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street–level mayhem of the backpacker area. CREDIT

DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: 8373 699 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer. CREDIT

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA $ 171A Co Bac, Q1, Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer. CREDIT

HONG HOA $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 1915 It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked–away little venue is on a par with anything else in the area – attractive, comfortable, friendly and more. Plus there is free Internet access. CREDIT

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$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5914 www.kimdohotel.com You’ll never have trouble finding your way back here at night – perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the exterior is brightly lit and the interior follows suit. A quality venue where no amenities are lacking – we’re talking executive Jacuzzis here. Use internet bookings to slash the cost of your room.

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

HCMC BUDGET

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$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining and spacious gardens on the bank of the Saigon River. Located in Thao Dien Village, also has a number of restaurants on hand including an Italian, Thai and Japanese.

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: 3827 4648 Take advantage of the free WiFi offered in every room at this venue where you’ll be impressed with the low prices, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few minutes from the street–level mayhem of the Backpackers’ area. CREDIT

HOI AN & DA NANG CUA DAI

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family–run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air–conditioned rooms and amiable staff.

DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: 0511 3961 800 www.danangbeachresort.com.vn This resort, 20 minutes away from the CREDIT

airport in Danang, comprises six areas of villas with beachfront, golf and mountain views, a 33–floor twin tower, three five– star hotels, a convention and commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village. FURAMA RESORT & SPA $$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar. CREDIT

HUY HOANG 1 $ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 0511 398 1234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com Located 15 minutes by car from Da Nang International Airport, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is situated on a stretch of beach with a view of the ocean and the Marble Mountains. Has 200 guestrooms featuring modern designs with oversized balconies and floor to ceiling windows. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private Ocean Villas, each with a private pool.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

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$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, if you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional–looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is an endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG $$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 511 3958 888 www.lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is family-friendly resort. The design of the guest rooms and amenities, quality of the food, ambience of the bar and restaurant and the dedication of service of the resort’s staff has all been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion. CREDIT

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life–resorts.com Recently refurbished, this award–winning leafy and well-appointed resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000 www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts

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destination in Vietnam, The Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT

TRAVEL NOTES WORDS BY TIM RUSSELL

Antisocial Media GIGGLES WERE BARELY SUPPRESSED in tourism industry circles recently when a VNAT spokesman announced that they would soon be marketing Vietnam using new technologies, “especially internet, and social networks such as Facebook and Twitter”. Presumably the gentleman in question is unaware that for many people in Vietnam, accessing Facebook still requires the use of proxy servers, DNS tweaks and other technological jiggery-pokery, as a result of a muchpublicised block on the world’s most popular social network. And while this may not affect people overseas searching for information about their trip to Vietnam, it does affect the alleged 6 million tourists who visit Vietnam every year and who, were they able to access it, would be using Facebook to share their travel pictures and videos, tell their friends what a wonderful time they’re having, and generally provide vital (and free) wordof-mouth marketing. The situation sums up Vietnam’s bizarre relationship with the internet. The country’s young population means that over 30 percent of the population are internet users (over 50 percent in urban areas), and many of these young people are highly entrepreneurial, yet internet/social media marketing in the country remains non-existent at worst to amateurish at best, and nowhere is this more true than in tourism and hospitality.

Time to Share Compare, for example, the country’s national tourism website (current headline — “Seminar on Cultural Heritages”) with that of, say Costa Rica, and the problem is immediately

summed up for you — one focuses on heritage, culture, seminars etc, and is designed to look like a newspaper; the other is colourful, interactive and, most importantly, shows foreign people having fun, which is as close to a perfect definition of tourism as you will get in my opinion. In Vietnam itself, bars, cafes, restaurants and hotels all offer free Wi-Fi, but don’t tweak their routers to allow Facebook access, meaning that the tourist who’s popped in for a coffee can’t tell his friends back home what a wonderful place this is. No venues are encouraging clients to review their business on Tripadvisor, THE social media tool for tourism and hospitality businesses. And when I open the new version of Foursquare, which provides local recommendations for me when I’m out and about, I see no cafes, bars or restaurants offering special deals for Foursquare check-ins — yet when I’m in Bangkok, Berlin or Birmingham, pretty much every café on Foursquare is vying for my custom by offering me a 10 percent discount, a free espresso or a free gift if I check in and thus share my experience with my friends and followers. What’s even more surprising is that so many businesses in Vietnam ignore free marketing channels such as these and persist with expensive, intrusive, garish and scattershot banner ads, which render so many local websites virtually unreadable and which deter me from patronising the businesses they are designed to promote. So come on Vietnam, you have more free Wi-Fi than pretty much anywhere else in the world — start using it to its full potential and make it easy for your clients to tell the world how wonderful you really are!

Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels.asia Pull up some (private) beach and relax at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

HUE & QUANG BINH HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

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$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue Tel: 054 382 6567 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa, this is the cheapest European–style place in town. Has bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial–hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high–rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la–residence–hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark–stained wood furnishings, this is traditional art deco Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

Booking needs to be made through tour operators - email chaylap@gmail.com for details or check out the website.

SUN SPA RESORT

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason–anamandara– nhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang) Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick–up from Nha Trang and the down–to–earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary of rest and relaxation is set on its own private beach. Based on ecofriendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs instead of tiles or differing roof coverings, enhancing the environmental appeal. The 50-seaview rooms are split between luxurious villas and condominiums that blend contemporary living with slight Indochina influences. CREDIT

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 625 6900 rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com This attractive four-star hotel is centrally located with 154 guestrooms, each with terrace and sea view, offering a pool, spa and restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. One of the best run hotels in town. CREDIT

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub–VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

RUSTIC CHAY LAP $ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh www.chaylap.org Situated on a peanut and maize farm on the doorstep of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge and farm offers homestay-style accommodation in the middle of a rural, ethnic minority Vietnamese environment. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking, caving and chilling out in the shadow of some of the most spectacular limestone karst scenery that this country has to offer.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu Tel: 058 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front hotel with 284 sea view rooms and suites, complimented by six restaurants and bars. The hotel also has a Sheraton Club Lounge with spectacular views, Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool area, a fitness centre, a kid’s club, a business centre and a cooking school. For great view of the city, head up on high to the rooftop bar.

seafood, Vietnamese specialities, Thai food and international cuisine are served in their many dining areas. The resort also offers outdoor activities including kitesurfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322. www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its new luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL & SPA

COCO BEACH

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn With various awards, including being listed in the World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009 by Expedia, and in view of the current facilities, location and its anticipated strong branding and service from the heart, Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa is ideal for the medium to higher end individual leisure and corporate travellers. All rooms have a view of the sea.

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7111 www.cocobeach.net The place that put Phan Thiet on the map is still one of the best options for a stay, with charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant. Coco Beach is continues to be run by the European management team that began it all in 1995.

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WHALE ISLAND RESORT

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. On-site seafood restaurant and bar.

WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT & SPA

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$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 058 3670 670 www.whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean and a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants including one where you can pick fresh seafood and then have it cooked, a swimming pool and a spa. Service is both professional and friendly.

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT & SPA

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MIA RESORT MUI NE

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 384 7440/2 www.miamuine.com Set on one acre of manicured lawns and lush gardens, this luxurious haven of rest and tranquillity offers four different accommodation types, all featuring en suite bathrooms, cable TV, IDD telephone, safe box and air conditioning. Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows looking out to the South China Sea. The resort’s Xuan Day spa offers a selection of therapeutic body treatments while the beachfront Sandals restaurant serves a blend of dishes from the Mediterranean and Pacific Rim.

Thiet, Villa Aria Mui Ne provides warm service with only 22 spacious guestrooms and one suite. Using only natural amenities in every room for a luxury experience, the resort includes a nice pool overlooking the beachfront, an alfresco dining lounge serving authentic Phan Thiet cuisine and more.

PHU QUOC

SHADES APARTMENTS $$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 374 3237 www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and good dining options. CREDIT

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 381 3000 www.victoriahotels.asia Part of the Victoria chain which has properties in Vietnam and Cambodia, this high–end resort with thatched–roof bungalows and family villas is set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a top–end seafood restaurant, and a spa, beauty salon and Jacuzzi right on the private beach. An excellent place to stay located just before you reach the main stretch of resorts in Mui Ne.

VILLA ARIA MUI NE

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$$$ 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660 www.villaariamuine.com The newest boutique beach resort in Phan

BEACH CLUB RESORT $$

AP CUA LAP, XA DUONG TO, LONG BEACH, PHU QUOC ISLAND Tel: 077 398 0998 www.beachclubvietnam.com A small and popular guesthouse located 15 minutes south of the airport offering simple yet well-appointed accommodation with rooms at VND630,000 and bungalows at VND840,000 per night. Features a beachside restaurant and includes free WIFI. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

BO RESORT $$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 6142 www.boresort.com booking@boresort.com Conceived and operated by a French– Vietnamese couple, BO Resort lies on the west of Phu Quoc and is quiet, low–key and secluded. An eco–lodge concept, there are no televisions or air–con and future plans include hot water by solar panels. 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay. Bathrooms are tropical, open–air style. The beachside restaurant is well–known and includes traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on fresh seafood and products, prepared with an unmistakable classic ‘French touch.’

NOVOTEL PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES & GOLF RESORT $$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3822 393 www.novotel.com/2067 This resort offers access to a first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo. Great food and service is offered in this 123–room escape destination featuring private balconies with ocean or golf view. CREDIT

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$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3743 777. www.allezboo.com This resort offers exotic and luxurious accommodation including two Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas and 55 spacious suites and deluxe rooms. Fresh

resorts in Vietnam, Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four–hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country. It’s definitely one of the most exclusive.

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com One of the few all–villa luxury boutique

Viet Nam Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY CREDIT

$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six–Senses–Hideaway– Ninh–Van–Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top–drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at around VND15 million for a beach pool villa.

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travel Promos BEST WESTERN BHUVANA HON TAM ISLAND RESORT Enjoy the summer holiday with a two-night stay in this five-star resort for just VND2,060,000 per person per night. Includes airport transfers, welcome drinks, breakfast and a set dinner for two. The promotion also includes a 45-minute spa treatment for two and use of kayaks and bicycles. Minimum two night stay, two people per room. Valid till Aug. 28 and open to Vietnamese and residents. Enjoy a luxury meeting for VND2,110,000++/person/ night. Two nights stay, a set dinner in Ocean Restaurant, airport shuttle and 45-minute spa treatment. The meeting package includes use of meeting room, two coffee breaks, materials for presentations and complimentary use of the entertainment area. Valid till Oct. 31. www.bestwesternbhuvana. com BEST WESTERN SEA & SUN HOTEL Relax with the family this summer with a two night stay in this three-star hotel. Priced at VND700,000++/person/night and includes a Vietnamese set menu for two and free kayaks, bicycles and pool use. Minimum two nights stay with two people per room. Valid till Aug. 28 and open to Vietnamese and Residents. Enjoy a special meeting for VND745,000++/person/night. Includes a two night stay, set lunch or dinner, 45-minute spa treatment and airport shuttle. The package includes use of meeting room, two coffee breaks, materials for presentations, a discovery tour for two in Hon Tam Island and free use of the pool. Kayaks and bicycles. Valid till Oct. 31.

CARAVELLE Stay in a deluxe single from VND4,065,000++ per night with breakfast and airport transfers. Enjoy complimentary Internet and two way airport transfers. Minimum two nights stay. Valid till Sep. 30. Email rsvn@caravellehotel. com for details HG TRAVEL This summer, HG Travel is offering a five-star tour with Bhaya Cruises, combining oriental style with contemporary luxury. Priced at VND6,279,000, the 3 day/2 night package includes a return ticket SaigonHai Phong, shuttle bus, one night hotel stay in a superior room, a two-day Halong Bay Cruise including one night in a deluxe cabin and one breakfast, lunch and dinner. Prices are based on two people sharing and the offer only applies to expats living in Vietnam and residents. Book before Oct. 15. Email git@hgtravel.com for details INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON Celebrate the hotel’s third anniversary with a Meeting Package or Residential Meeting Package to cater every need. The Meeting Package starts from VND430,000++/person for a half day meeting with coffee break and sweet snacks provided. Bookings must be a minimum of 10 participants. Valid until Dec. 31. The Residential Meeting Package starts from VND3,203,500++ per person per night and is valid until Sep. 30. Includes a deluxe room, breakfast, full or half day meeting package, welcome drinks and one complimentary room for every twenty paying rooms.

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla–resort.com Open since November 2008, this Italianrun, 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first–class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant. One of the few top-end properties on Phu Quoc.

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas–eco–lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco–cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

$$$$ Tel: 064 378 1525 info@hotramresort.com www.hotramresort.com Located along the coastal road in Ba Ria– Vung Tau Province, this attractive, Hoi Anstyled property is the ideal getaway from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City. The resort is highlighted by a selection of 63 uniquely designed Indochine bungalows and villas that promise a local experience with international–standard accommodation. Also has an excellent spa facility and two swimming pools.

VICTORIA SAPA

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

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See more at wordhcmc.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG Vous Spa introduces the summer package for this month. Stimulate circulation and relax the muscles with a body massage followed by a facial treatment to moisturise and nourish the skin. The package is priced at VND1,200,000 for two hours. Valid from Jul. 1 to Jul. 31. www.novotel-nhatrang.com RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE SAIGON Deluxe City View room — choose either a 30-minute foot massage at The Renaissance Spa or 1 cocktail at Atrium Lounge. Complimentary upgrade to higher room category. Late check-out till 4pm. VND3,520,000++/ night for 2 persons. Until Aug. 2012. Minimum 2 nights stay. Intriguing Meetings — Welcome cocktail for one hour for all participants. Upgrade to river view rooms (maximum of five rooms). 1 person on complimentary basis for every fifteen paying rooms. Complimentary in-room internet for Marriott Rewards Members (enrolment is on complimentary basis). Late check-out till 3pm. Valid till Sep. 30 with minimum 2 nights stay. Email duy.vo@renaissancesaigon.com for details VICTORIA BEACH RESORT AND SPA Enjoy a summer promotion in Phan Thiet from May 5 to Oct. 31. Prices start at VND1,802,000 ++ per night in a garden view. Bungalow up to VND3,190,000++ per night in a deluxe seaview bungalow. Applicable for new bookings only. Email reservation@ victoriahotels.asia for details

LA VERANDA $$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773982988 contact@laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery branded La Veranda has beautifully– designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

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HO TRAM BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT

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MANGO BAY

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up tasty, home-cooked Vietnamese food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow–style resort which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid– back and simple. And cheap.

SAPA CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE $$ Cat Cat Road Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from VND2.8 million per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO BINH AN VILLAGE

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$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Tel: 064 3781 631 www.sanctuary.com.vn Just 45 minutes north of Vung Tau, the classical but contemporary elegance and refined atmosphere of this leafy villa complex provides guests with a home away from home. Perfect for renting with groups of friends or as an extended family, the spacious villas each come with their own pool and many have direct access to the beach. Facilities include tennis courts, water sports, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours. CREDIT

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau Tel: 064 335 1553 www.binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this glamorous, Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has a calming and elegant boutique atmosphere. Has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining and a bar strategically located on the cliff to watch the sunset.

REX HOTEL

CON DAO RESORT

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3830 939 www.condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island on the edge of the main town, this beachfront resort is a good option thanks to its reasonable pricing and coconutshaded sand. Has the standard range of mod cons.

GRAND HOTEL

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$$$ 2 Nguyen Du, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 6888 www.grand.oscvn.com This four-star iconic property stands proudly along the tree–lined seafront and has added modern amenities to its spacious rooms, along with a large restaurant, first–floor bar, fitness centre and business facilities.

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$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 2135 www.rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge. Rooms start at VND900,000. $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel : 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao/ The first five-star resort on the Con Dao archipelago, this unique property pays homage to the remoteness of its natural environment by being deliberately sandwiched between the sea, beach, mangrove and mountains behind. 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay here, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage.

in Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia Pacific. Join now and save.

ASIANATRAVEL MATE CO. LTD 113C Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 6678 92-94-96 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 0615 www.asianatravelmate.com An active supporter of the Loreto Program, AsianaTravel Mate Co. Ltd. is a tourist information company that offers a wide range of customised itineraries, tour packages, and hotel & cruise reservations throughout Indochina, as well as daily departure tours in Saigon, Hue, Hanoi, known as Deluxe Group Tours. The company also operates three deluxe cruises in Ha Long Bay.

AZA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7 Tel: 5410 5523 www.azaadventuretours.com AZA Adventure Tours and Travel specialises in adventure and education tourism, providing consulting and custom travel arrangements and packages to the Philippines and other countries in Asia. AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level.

BUDGET RENT–A–CAR www.budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best–known car rental companies. With a kiosk at the airport and drivers trained in a range of driving, cultural and language skills, mileage–free car hire starts at VND1.2 million.

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TRAVEL SERVICES ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS 7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9170 travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips, customises leisure and corporate travel plans around the world and in Vietnam while offering a selected range of small group tours.

COME & GO VIETNAM 195/14, D1, Q Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 3281 hello@comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, responsive British–run tour operator offering high–quality, innovative tailor made tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. Come & Go pride themselves on originality so if you’re tired

of the usual Vietnam products, they’re definitely worth a try. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

DALAT EASY RIDER 70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat vndalateasyrider@yahoo.com www.dalat–easyrider.com.vn Bespoke motorbike tours from the original Easy Rider group based in Dalat. With over 70 guides, all speaking English, tourists can either ride on the back of a bike with their guide or can hire their own bikes. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands and you can even venture as far as Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Email for further information. Note: insurance is not included. Price is generally VND800,000 to VND1 million per day depending on how far you travel.

EXOTISSIMO 64 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3827 2911 dongdu@exotissimo.com SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2761 - Ext 113 pmh@exotissimo.com 41 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3 5194 111 - Ext 17 I anphu@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com Everything you could wish for under one roof from this professional agency. An upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, which aims to bring you up close to the cultures of the area through personalised tours across the region, which may include insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. Excellent service. Travel desks at Sofitel Plaza Saigon and New World Hotel open from 7.30am to 9pm every day.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 7744 info@flightravelco.com www.flightravelco.com Flight travel is an associated partner of Hogg Robinson Group (HRG) in Vietnam providing a range of travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLUB PHU QUOC 60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Tel: 0939 402 872 www.flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff that speak English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and Vietnamese. Established in 2009, Flipper Diving Club offers international scuba diving insurance for all customers and each instructor carries

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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AIRLINES

BIKE RENTALS

FLY VIETNAM

AIR ASIA www.airasia.com

www.flyvietnam.com booking@flyvietnam.com An online air ticket reservation and travel agent in Vietnam providing information, pricing, availability, and booking facilities for domestic and international air travel, railway reservation, hotel bookings, holiday packages, buses, and car rentals. Also organises travel insurance, coach tours and visas.

AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com EVA AIRWAYS 4th Floor, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 4488 www.evaair.com JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

additional scuba diving insurance. Contact them now to learn more about diving in Phu Quoc.

NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pick-up. SAIGON MOTORBIKE 203 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals. Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

ONE WORLD 28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 A local inbound tour operator specialising in boutique tours around Vietnam. We provide economy, luxury, packages and Taylor–made tours, including flexibility to allow our customers to explore at their pace and will.

TERRAVERDE

270 De Tham, Q1 One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3984 4754 info@terraverdetravel.com If cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Halong Bay is your kind of thing, then this company’s range of customised cultural and soft adventure tours might suit. It caters to travellers interested in making a positive impact on the lives of the people whose regions they visit.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

TU TRANG TRAVEL

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering day tours, short breaks and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 071 3752 436 www.tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Tu Trang Travel offers services such as trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh, and between Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc. Email: sales@tutrangtravel. com.

KIM TRAVEL CHI’S CAFÉ 40/27 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/month. Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter.

rates and corporate event packages are also available.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne Tel: 0908 400 108 www.mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes with national and international guidelines for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation. Group

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE www.vietnamvespaadventure.com From the people behind Zoom Café, Vietnam Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English speaking tour leaders lead the way, contact shawn@vietnamvespaadventure. com for more details.

OUT & ABOUT

LISTINGS

BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 099 CAFES 102 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 104 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 104 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 105 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 105 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 110 RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 112

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 2 LAM SON TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am. Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

ALLEZ BOO

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 195 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6291 5424 info@allezboo.com 24 hours Summery, Ibiza-style beats rock through this recently refurbished Backpackers’ Area icon, mixing in with the bamboostyle décor, deep red walls and ethnic minority upholstery and place settings. Serving a mixture of Thai and western cuisine (from VND80,000 to VND140,000 a dish), the late-night party atmosphere is bolstered by the first-floor DJ pumping out tunes into the early hours.

AMBER ROOM

LOUNGE BAR First Floor, 59 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 3686 www.theamberoom.com 3pm to midnight A small but atmospheric, living-room style

ICONS 101 ICONS 101

AIRCONDITIONING

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS

WI-FI

THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES

NON-SMOKING AREA

SMOKE-FREE ROOMS

DELIVERY

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com

GYM

VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

SWIMMING POOL

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visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings RESTAURANTS SOUTHEAST ASIAN 113 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 115

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London meets New York lounge opposite the Sheraton Hotel. Has chilled out tunes during the late afternoon and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for the latest cocktails, a good coffee and a glass of wine. Also has an extensive champagne list with probably the largest offering of champagnes by the glass available in town. Holds regular events.

AMERICA DISCOTHEQUE TECHNO / HIP HOP Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 9pm to late Once the largest nightclub in Vietnam, this 2000-capacity venue is located in the An Dong Plaza complex in District 5. Pumping out 30,000 watts of sound, this club also possesses one of the loudest nightclub sound systems in the city. A popular nightspot for the local and Viet Kieu crowd, with resident and guest DJs playing thumping dance and techno tunes and a separate room for those who prefer hip hop and R&B. Expect to pay the usual nightclub prices for drinks, but look out for the regular specials on bottles of spirits.

APOCALYPSE NOW MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music. Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

BLUE GECKO

AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 3483 www.bluegeckosaigon.com 4.30pm to midnight Although run by a Vietnamese couple, this boozy, outback-themed sports pub just off the main drag is quintessentially Australian. The down-to-earth atmosphere is added to by a great pool table, darts and all the live sports, with a particular focus (not surprisingly) on Aussie Rules and Rugby. Also shows the Premier League. One of the longest running watering holes in town.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ LIVE MUSIC DJ

out & about this bar and café has the feel of an underground-style watering hole, the type you may find in London or New York. Run by a well-known, locally based DJ, the decks and mixing board take centre stage here, with a range of turntablists taking to the stand at night. Also a good place to hang out during the day — the Mediterranean-influenced food menu includes crostini, salads, pastas and a good selection of breakfast fare. Does takeaway Lavazza coffee.

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com 9.30am to 1am Swathed in greys, cream and dull brown,

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 28/4 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 6656 6338 bostonpizzavn@gmail.com 24 hours This inviting, all-hours-god-sends multistorey restobar with its rectangular, bare-brick bar area is the only place in the Backpackers’ District showing all the live sport. And here we certainly mean the word ALL. TV screens are everywhere. Also in the mix is the coldest aircon in town, reasonable (although slightly pricey) pub food and friendly female staff.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com 7am to 1am Composed of The Conservatory, a daylight-drenched loft area, The Salon, a plush living room with baroque and exotic accents, The Cigar Room and The Library, with its sleek champagne tasting counter, the Boudoir Lounge is a haven for executives and lounge adepts alike. Live International DJs perform Fridays and Saturdays. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and evening bouchées.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0948 343399 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet. It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

CRAZY BUFFALO

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 212 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9946 www.crazybuffalosaigon.com 24 hours This hard-to-miss Backpackers’ Area restobar, terrace and nightclub declares itself loud and bold with its massive, snorting buffalo signage, a symbol that has undoubtedly appeared in thousands of photos of Saigon. A daytime happy hour, pizza, pasta, Asian cuisine and international mains make up the mix, with the beats pumping on the first floor until late.

FUSE TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com 7pm to late One of the smaller nightclubs to grace Saigon, the neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese set. Blaring techno and dance music envelopes the dance floor as large fruit platters and bottles of whiskey and cognac are consumed. A lack of space means this place gets packed easily, especially on the weekends, so look to arrive relatively early to grab a table. Even better, book in advance.

GO2 INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9575 24 hours A corner location, retro, slightly grungy décor, banging indie and popular rock tunes downstairs, never ending drunkenness and late-night partying make Go2 one of the watering hole destinations in the Backpackers’ Area. Popular with tourists and expats searching for latenight drinking and dancing options, the food menu includes Thai, Vietnamese and western cuisine with mains costing between VND75,000 and VND110,000. DJs bang out the beats upstairs until late.

GOSSIP HARD TECHNO 79 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3824 2525 8.30pm to 2.30am This Singaporean-run super club, located in the Dai Nam hotel, is just as popular with the locals as it is with the foreigners. A friendly, communal atmosphere and attentive service helps Gossip to stand out from its contemporaries. As expected, tinnitus-inducing levels of techno and house music blare throughout the twotiered club with a large, raised dancefloor that fills out instantly. ‘Dress to impress’ is the nature of the clientele here so don’t turn up in shorts and flip-flops. The entrance fee is VND120,000.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS 28Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn 8am to midnight Set in the same building as the Czech Consulate and decorated in wood panelling and brass finishing, this enormous Czech-styled bierkeller popular with stout burghers from both the local and expatriate communities was the first microbrewery in town (1995) and remains one of the best. The excellent home–brewed Hoavener beer, which comes in dark, red or blonde, is served out of huge steins and is complemented by a food menu that mixes Vietnamese fare with Central European staples such as schnitzels, wurst and much more.

ICE BLUE

EXPAT BAR / DART 54 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 2664 3pm to 1am Despite its slightly run down veneer and smoky but lively atmosphere, Ice Blue remains a popular haunt for many of the city’s older expats as well as a not–so– regular crowd of tourists. Known for its amicable service and lively, beer-drinking ambience, this long-running waterhole is also famed for its darting prowess, with two well set-up dart boards claiming pride of place.

LA HABANA

CUBAN/SPANISH 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am If it's mojitos and well-mixed cocktails you want, spiced up with nightly live music and a Latin atmosphere, La Habana is the place. Run by a Chinese-German couple, this attractive, long-running Cuban bar and restaurant is one of the few watering holes in the Thai Van Lung / Le Thanh Ton area to serve up a regular dose of all things live. Also has HB beer on tap, an excellent food menu and weekly salsa classes.

LAVISH

DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style,

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out & about shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices. However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the Frenchrun Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

LUSH

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

O BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this

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well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-diefor zesty beef roll-ups. Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

PHATTY’S

46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere. Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

PURPLE JADE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Purple Jade is a great place to catch up with friends or business partners or simply just to relax and enjoy great drinks. If you find yourself being overly particular about your choice of tipple, pull yourself together and ask the bartender for a cold beer with a shot of good liquor on the side.

QING

WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION CUISINE 110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar, this slither of a place mixes dark brown and maroon décor with bar-style seating and comfortable dining areas out front and at the back. An extensive new and old world wine list is, of course, part of the offering, as is an awesome pan-Asian fusion menu boasting Asian tapas (from VND85,000), international fusion mains (from VND185,000) and gourmet, creatively topped pizzas. Has a highly rated massage parlour upstairs.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home– style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

SLATE 3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com 5pm to 1am Located opposite Centrepoint, Slate takes its name from the dark grey tiling covering the floor. Merging black and silver with turquoise, and with touches like semi-private sofa beds, the offerings here include over 30 martini cocktails, a barbecue menu and perhaps one of the most contemporary yet tasteful watering holes in town

SPOTTED COW

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 111 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7670 spottedcow@alfrescosgroup.com 11am to 12pm daily Part of the Al Fresco’s Group, the original Spotted Cow bar was on Hai Ba Trung in Hanoi, a few doors down from the country’s first Al Fresco’s. Now revived and transformed into a full-on sports bar with Friesian black and white spots to match, this friendly watering hole has a good food menu to match – think pasta, pizza, burgers, baguettes and international comfort food mains. A range of happy hours and darts make up the mix.

THE DRUNKEN DUCK

SPORT / SHOOTER BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3915 2853 4pm to late A shooter bar, with over 15 down–in– one cocktails on the menu boasting names like Aquackalypse Now and The Duckinator, this striking, subtly lit space has a downstairs pool table, a long

wooden bar and an upstairs lounge with a large, pull-down projector screen. The watering hole also shows live sport on the weekends courtesy of three flatscreen TVs. Try the shooter challenge and get a t-shirt and your name and time engraved on the wall. Also has a reasonable bar menu.

THE LIBRARY Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The Library recaptures the romance of a bygone era, offering a sophisticated all-day snack menu of exquisite delicacies devised by Executive Chef Rolando Manesco. From 2.30pm to 5pm, the Library’s nostalgic afternoon tea is served, comprising of an array of fresh-cut sandwiches, light bites and platters.

VASCO’S

EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends. A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

VELVET

DANCE / HIP-HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 Tel: 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com 8.30pm to midnight You will be hard pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and uber trendy as Velvet. It’s of no wonder then that most of its clientele are exceptionally well-dressed socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. As a result this venue has carved itself a reputation as being the place to be and to be seen. Has a ladies night every Wednesday.

VIBE BILLARDS AND LOUNGE

102 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 2599 10am to 1am A departure from the Saigon norm, this comfortably decorated, two-floor pool and snooker lounge mixes the attractions of a lustrous contemporary lounge bar with all the mod cons together with some of

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out & about the best, imported pool tables available in town. Rental is by the hour, the seven pool tables costing around VND100,000 while the upstairs, full-size snooker table costs a touch more. A great place to go simply for a drink or to shoot pool with friends.

CAFES AIRPLANE CAFE (CAFE MAY BAY) OUTDOOR VIETNAMESE 117 Hong Ha, Tan Binh 7am to 10pm Located on the L-shaped road behind the Parkson Centre opposite the airport, a disused war-era passenger plane sets the scene for one the city’s most unique outdoor, plastic deck chair seating cafes. So unique, in fact, that the wings act as shade from the sun, the wheels play home to a set of speakers, pot plants and fans hang from the metal casing of the aircraft while the tail has had a mini house built around it. Not surprisingly this museum of a place can get pretty crowded with families and kids awestruck by the novelty. It’s a decent cafe, too.

AN’S INTERIOR CAFE VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3 Tel: 3823 3398 www.anscafe.com 7am to 11pm Located down alleyway 38, this sumptuous cafe just off Turtle Lake Circle is chintz, kitsch, bling and contemporary baroque decor all combined into an eye-catching one. That this place is so pleasing on the eye is added to by the silvery finished sofa seating and the iPad menus. Simply swipe the menu, zoom in or zoom out to choose from a contemporary range of coffees, teas, drinks and cocktails as well as Vietnamese and pan-western cuisine.

AU PARC

out & about lounge of a place continues to knock out large and tasty espresso-based coffees together with a full range of smoothies, frappuccinos, juices and much more. Also has a fast-food style western food menu and an upstairs movie lounge showing the latest Hollywood hits with Vietnamese subtitles. Check their website for the movie schedule. Movie lounges are at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 and 400B Le Van Sy, Q3.

Great, large servings of coffee have to be the biggest pull of Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, an international chain of pleasant Starbucks-like work, meet and play cafes that is gradually spreading around the city. Now with five stores around town including 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 and further afield, comfortable seating and a contemporary but generic atmosphere are bolstered by a menu of cakes, cookies, sandwiches, pastries and more.

CACOPHONY

GLORIA JEAN’S

LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: 3932 2797 www.cacophonycafe.com 7.30am to 11pm Set in a villa in a colonial era courtyard alongside two other cafes dedicated to live music, the four floors of Cacophony are all devoted to the beauty of sound, but in a different way. Take level 3, for example. An acoustic guitar and sound system sits in one corner while the room is decorated like a Hanoi urban street corner, sign, lamppost, tree, doorways and all, with the seating on cushions on the floor. Has live music in the basement space five nights a week (not Monday and Tuesday). Also has a small food menu.

INTERNATIONAL 2BIS Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 www.gloriajeanscoffee.com/vn Wooden table seating mixed with more comfortable armchairs, subtle lighting and a serve-yourself buffet-style ordering counter are some of the key components of this coffee chain that succeeded in Australia where Starbucks failed. It’s not surprising really. The coffee is good as are its various renditions — cinamocha, chai tea chiller, Turkish Delight, mango chiller, Irish nut crème and more.

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3821 2718 7am to 10pm An outdoor, well-aired terrace on a corner location is the centerpiece of this fairly new but ever-popular contemporary coffee shop just behind New World Hotel. Wickerchair seating, lightbox lighting, browns, blacks and creams make up the effect, with a menu selling both Vietnamese and espresso-based coffees, smoothies, cocktails, beers and a mix of well-priced pan-international and Vietnamese fare. Live music on the weekends.

I’M YOURS

L’USINE

CENTRO ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm The home of Caffe Vergnano, a recent makeover has added a bar area to this popular downtown cafe that serves up all things coffee - anything from ristrettos, macchiattos and lattes through to frappuccinis, mochas and spirit-infused coffees. Has a decent, mid-range Italian food menu to match that includes a large selection of panini, crostini, Italian rice dishes, salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat-based mains. Has a second cafe at 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1.

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm Classic but eye-catching cream and greentiled decor runs through this cafe and deli-style restaurant housed in a colonial building opposite Le Duan park. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix together with a Mediterranean and European cafe fare food menu that includes creative sandwiches and salads as well as kebabs, bagels, mains and mezzos, all at prices that go easy on the wallet. Good wine list and an excellent delivery service.

CAFE / CASUAL DINING 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 4860 citygarden.sg@gmail.com 7am to 10pm daily City Garden is somewhat of a rarity in this city. Built in a sea of bamboo, this cozy open-air, non air-con cafe offers a casual and Mediterranean-influenced menu with a creative range of reasonably priced Panini starting from VND50,000, Italian latte from VND40,000 and cocktails from VND55,000. Good music and comfortable seating round up the mix.

BOBBY BREWER’S

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 4090 www.bobbybrewers.com 6.30am to 11pm Now with eight locations in town, this slightly synthetic, Starbucks-style airport

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3508 7825 www.coffeebean.com.vn 7am to 11pm weekdays. 7.30am to 11.30pm weekends.

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CITY GARDEN

MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0909 682927 9am to 10.30pm Tucked away just behind Nga Tu Phu Nhuan (The Phu Nhuan Intersection), this tiny gem of a rustic cafe combines nightly live music from 8.30pm with brown velvet upholstered sofa seating, treated dark wooden bench tables, cushions and striking wall decor. So small is this venue that there is an upstairs mezzanine level reached by old Mekong Delta-style ladder stairs and when the music starts, the place not only fills to the open rafters but gets local bus-style cramped, too. A great find.

KITA COFFEE INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL 2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture

and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own. Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com Plaudits galore as well as overseas TV coverage seem to have followed this spacious, first floor bistro-style cafe above the Art Arcade. Pitting 1930s Frenchstyle wooden decor against a spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior, a simple but creative cafe menu including sandwiches, salads, mains and cakes combines with reasonably priced coffee and good WiFi. Out back is a fashion store stocking modern, street-style brands, and an art gallery.

OPERATION: TEAROOM

cafe obsessed by music — images of famous musicians and bands adorn the walls while the playlist is all American. Live piano enters the fray on Saturday and Sunday nights while the menu is typical Vietnamese cafe style together with fast food and a good selection of ice cream.

SOHO COFFEE LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 92 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 3606 www.soho.vn What started out as a sleek but comfortable, black and white futuristic affair on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai has now spread to five cafes around town and a restaurant at 327 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. It’s a nice formula. Comfortable but not flamboyant sofa-style seating, suave lines, curves and surfaces, a non-smoking section, good WiFi and surprisingly cheap coffee, all making a place to work, eat, rest and play. Check out their website for a list of locations.

STELLA CAFFE ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm Despite its Italian restaurant veneer in a Backpacker area location, this pleasant, mid-range venue is best known for its coffee — its lattes and cappuccinos are among the best available in town. Has both indoor and outdoor spaces as well as an additional dining area upstairs. Although, the service is questionable.

THI CAFÉ

RETRO / VIETNAMESE 224 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 2210 2929 www.thicafe.com 8am to late A gem in an area of rough diamonds, this

slightly retro, bookish but lounge-style Vietnamese café and bar brings the best of local coffee shop creativity to Backpackerville, a collection of streets more associated with the brash and the not very beautiful. Decent iced coffee and juices mix with cocktails, beer and a panAsian food menu that also has a selection of Mexican fare. Has live acoustic music five nights a week and a downstairs bar area.

TRUNG NGUYEN 50 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 6911 www.trungnguyen.com.vn 6.30am to 10.30pm A downtown location of the everexpanding Trung Nguyen chain, this pleasant two-storey cafe opposite the Bitexco Tower mixes the creams, browns and comfort seating of this international homegrown brand with the Trung Nguyen menu — six types of mixed robusta and arabica Vietnamese-style coffees together with smoothies, juices and a small range of easy food options. The best place in town to taste locally produced coffee in all its tempting guises. Also has a store at 349 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 and numerous locations around town selling their coffee.

UP CAFE CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3845 2155 7am to 11pm Even the logo is shaped like an upside down house at this funky, spacious cafe close to the Moevenpick and the airport. With whole sets of upside down tables and chairs, shelves, light fittings, mantlepieces and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up is one of the new brand of cafes spreading its wings across the city. Sells the typical range of cafe drinks and simple Vietnamese cuisine

335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 www.operationteavietnam.com 8am-8pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-5pm (Sat-Sun) A quiet and hidden little tearoom located on the ground floor of a yoga studio and not far from the city centre. A wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond marks the entrance to this quaint, open-air tearoom. Serving a line of high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and Vietnam, drinks start at VND35,000. Tea and teaware is also available for home use and as gifts.

PETITE NOTE MUSIC CAFE 351/4A le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3931 6312 8am to 11pm A jungle of a place with vines wrapping round stairwells, water features, pot plants and fairy lights at night, the aircon indoors transforms into a living room-style

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out & about

DELIVERY BEN’S STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare BURGER OI Tel: 3826 5426 www.burgeroi.com Burgers, fries, onion rings and side orders CHEZ GUIDO Tel: 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches DA VINCI’S Tel: 3943 4982 www.davincisvietnam.com Pizzas, pastas, subs and salads DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants KFC Tel: 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides LOTTERIA Tel: 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers SCOOZI Tel: 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants ZIPANG Tel: 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm.com for menu

104 | Word July 2012

out & about as well as cocktails, beer and more. A great place to chill.

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET HU TIEU MI ANH KY MI NOODLE SOUP / WANTON 80 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 5518 6.30am to 12pm daily Take freshly made mi noodles, put them in a pork broth, add equally fresh wantons (hoanh thanh), maybe add in some dried hu tieu noodles and put banh quay (bread sticks) and a range of sauces on the side. Et voila, you have one of the best Chinese-style Vietnamese noodle soups in Saigon. The service may be a touch slow and you’ll have to get used to an on-the-street, back to basics atmosphere, but worth every penny (and bite).

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

MID-RANGE TAN HAI VAN PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best–known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

MID TO TOP DYNASTY CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, round-table dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town. The classic dim sum menu is reliably appetizing – check out their Sunday morning dim sum brunch. Also has a selection of set menus, both private and semi-private dining rooms and a highly rated chef hailing from Hong Kong.

KABIN CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) www.shangpalace.com.vn Located just off the Central Business District, the dark intricate wooden tables and chairs of this well-respected Chinese restaurant contrast well with the white linen and deep red carpeting. Featuring over 200 dishes including over 50 kinds of dim sum for lunch, the cuisine here is prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300 and is a good venue for events, business functions and family get-togethers.

YU CHU 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The restaurant marries contemporary style, stylish surroundings and culinary spectacle with authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. As diners look on, the skillful chefs prepare hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within the open, impeccably designed show kitchen.

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID-RANGE LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 9263 11am to 10pm Mon-Thu. 11am to 11pm Fri-Sat. Closed from 2.30pm to 5.30pm daily and Sundays A quirky and sociable family-run, family-friendly French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, home cooked-style French cuisine for lunch and dinner. Le Bouchon de Saigon offers traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, croque madame and moules marinieres, as well as an array of European fusion dishes, and competivitely priced world wines.

LE JARDIN 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3825 8465 11am to 1.30pm, 6pm to 8.20pm. Closed Sundays Unpretentious, tasty but simple French fare in a relaxed garden setting around the back of the French Cultural Centre, Idecaf. Although don’t expect much intimacy here – Le Jardin gets so crowded and the tables are so close together that private conversations are best had elsewhere. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is classically Gallic and it’s well-priced, too. Excellent, cheap house wine served by the carafe. Booking advised.

MINH KHA CAFÉ (K CAFÉ) FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 0903 852956 (Paulo) kcafesaigon@yahoo.com A French-style bistro and restaurant all in one, this Backpacker Area mainstay attracts a regular clientele made up of Gallic expats, tourists and more. An excellent food menu – think all things French – backs up the long bar area perfect for sipping on a Ricard or a beer or two. Daily specials board and French sports live on TV.

MID TO TOP LA FOURCHETTE PAN-FRENCH 9 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3829 8143 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm A cramped but comfortable, twostorey eatery popular with the French

community. Classic fare from goats cheese salad through to seared magret duck, escargot, charcuterie plates and much more. Has a reasonable but mainly French wine list and a cosy, amiable atmosphere aided by the almost constant presence of the owner. Booking recommended.

TY COZ CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town. A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

TOP-END LA CAMARGUE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay. Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Recently relocated from its spot on Ngo Van Nam, this decidedly intimate, whitewashed, open-kitchened restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list — 75 at present count — and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its small size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com 11.30am to 2pm, and 6pm to 10pm A traditional French restaurant offering Mediterranean cuisine that’s well known for its quarterly Michelin star promotions and award winning pastry team. Seating 80 people, the restaurant exudes a southern Gallic atmosphere with its warmtoned tiled veranda, pastel coloured walls and ficus trees.

TROIS GOURMANDS CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 3744 4585 6.30pm to 10pm. Closed Monday Deliberately off the radar, Trois Gourmands is the successor of the once legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh. Despite its new District 2 location in a colonial-style bungalow, the enigmatic Gils remains at the helm of this self-styled table d'hôte, and as of old he continues to serve up some of the best, classic Gallic fare in town. As ever, the standard seven-course meal remains surprisingly cheap — presently at VND900,000 a head. The bread and even the cheese here are home made — quite a feat.

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN BUDGET BOMBAY INDIAN INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 0903 863114 11am to 10pm Daily Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine as well as roti paratha, muttapa (murtabak) and both vegetarian and meat-based mains. Like its menu, the fan-cooled dining area is simplicity personified and the prices here are cheap, too, with all the dishes costing well under VND100,000.

THE PUNJABI NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s selfmade tandoor oven. Excellent.

MID-RANGE BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 6661 www.babaskitchen.in 11am to 10.30pm Run by the enigmatic Robin of former Mumtaz fame, this recently opened, pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent. From dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and the fiery vindaloo, the cuisine and hospitable service at this friendly eatery are already drawing in the customers. Good delivery service.

GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the three-storey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams. Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

INDUS INDIAN INDIAN / MALAYSIAN 2G Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3521 0326 indusindiansaigon@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Just two doors away from nightspot icon Apocalypse Now, Indus Indian may not be the brightest in decor and ambience, but this is made up for by the tasty, hybrid Malay Indian fare. Run by Chef Logu, the former cook to the Consulate General of India to Vietnam, expect a Halal menu including the likes of roti canai, murtabak and Malay-styled curries as well as more traditional Indian cuisine.

MUMTAZ NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold

décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

PEACHES

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999 10am to 11pm A Saigon South favourite, Peaches is located in the square area between Sky Garden 2 and Sky Garden 3. A spacious, attractive restobar with comfortable, lounge-style seating and a bar area, this watering hole mixes three beers on tap and a large screen for the live sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Including anything from Sri Lankan chicken curry through to beef rending, fish head curry and mutton vindaloo, the majority of the dishes cost under VND100,000. A perfect accompaniment to the beer.

TANDOOR

NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bo b Dylan on the sound system. Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

LAM’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 175 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 0308 The hole-in-the-wall frontage to this darling of the Backpacker’s Area dining scene is misleading. Lam’s serves up some genuinely tasty cuisine at rock bottom prices, especially when you hit the Vietnamese menu. The fare here is typical of local home cooking and the portions are big, too. Also does Tex-Mex, Thai, Singaporean and much more. The bar Chao Saigon (222/2 Bui Vien) opposite is owned and run by the same family

MARKET 39 Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Market 39 specialises in a boutique selection of appetisers, locally sourced and imported seafood, succulent steaks sizzling from the grill and hand-crafted noodles. Breads and pastries are prepared all day to ensure that every dish arrives on the table, fresh and full of flavour.

July 2012 Word | 105

out & about .MID-RANGE

AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 8424 www.alfrescosgroup.com 8.30am to 11pm The downtown outlet of one of the country’s most successful restaurant chains, the multi-storey Al Fresco’s is international comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Famous for its jumbo ribs, also making the menu is Tex-Mex, burgers, pizzas, salads and an assortment of international mains. Does an excellent delivery service. For a full list of restaurants check the website.

foodie CORNER

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

PHOTOS BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

Chop Chop! IT’S OFTEN REMARKED THAT being multi-talented or multifunctional is never anywhere near as good as being exceptional at just one thing. This is probably why Com Tam Nguyen Van Cu (167 Nguyen Van Cu, Q5) has managed to uphold such a fine reputation amongst foreign diners despite having one of the least extensive menus of any other popular restaurant in the city. Truth be known, there’s no physical menu at all quite yet, despite the restaurant having been in business for 20 years now — what you see on the counter is what you get. And what a sight it is — there in the cabinet, sitting in a cheap perspex bowl with its price tag still on it, is a stack of the thickest steaks you’ll ever see in a venue of this type — barbecued to perfection and selling on a plate of broken rice for just VND70,000 each. A vegetarian’s nightmare, each slab of pig is a significant percentage of the donor animal, minus the chunks of fat traditionally served

with the recipe at street side stalls throughout the city.

Surviving on Reputation These massive pork chops are the pride of the proprietress, Mrs Tran Thi Hong Phuong, a native of Go Cong in the Mekong Delta, who wakes each morning at 2am to prepare the haute cuisine. Each steak is personally

chosen by her — she visits several local markets to make her selection, carefully comparing the thickness and quality of each — and she will personally prepare these for opening time at 6am. The restaurant will close after the last chop has been eaten (typically at some time in the mid-afternoon)

and will not reopen for dinner. Phuong, who learnt the tricks of the trade by hanging around Ben Thanh Market every day during the early 1990s, refuses to let anyone else cook — and preparing evening meals would involve inhuman hours. The restaurant has survived so long based solely on its reputation amongst both local Vietnamese and foreigners alike. This gave rise to a significant setback around a year ago when the base of operations moved from its original location just down the road to this lessobvious venue, which is slightly harder to find. They’ll be moving back once the original premises are renovated, but that’s still a year away — for now, just look for a large, open, inconspicuous-looking shophouse painted a clean sky-blue inside. If your tieng Viet isn’t up to scratch, visit at the weekend when Phuong’s daughter Lily can serve you in English. — Michael Arnold

BAHDJA 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 11pm (Mon-Fri), 6pm to 11pm (Sat) Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

BERNIE’S BAR & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3822 1720 7.30am to 11pm A restobar that caters for any crowd and occasion. A fine dining room is located upstairs while the more casual bar area downstairs regularly shows live sport and hosts live music. The menu offers up a bevy of tasty western comfort food, a selection of Vietnamese fare and some of the best burgers in town.

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 8452 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Closed Mondays. A miniscule, two-floor restobar with a homely, slightly rustic feel that is the only place in town pushing the excellent, Hue-brewed Huda beer, always served cold. A free book exchange, an everyoneknows-your-name kind of atmosphere and mains from tuna steak and bangers and mash through to burgers, schnitzels, burritos and sarnies make up the formula here. Does a popular roast from 5.30pm every Sunday.

CASABLANCA MOROCCAN CUISINE

MOGAMBO

STORM P

PAN-NORTH AFRICAN 58/9 Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: 3862 8859 6pm to midnight. Closed Monday The first Moroccan restaurant in Saigon’s history has an intimate, cozy setting. Couscous mains start at around VND100,000, while couscous with lamb, chicken and beef is just under VND200,000. Other Moroccan specialties such as slow–cooked lamb with almond and plums and roasted quail with sweet mrozia sauce are also on the menu. Chef Riahi’s home–made pastries such as baklava and “gazelle horns” filled with almond paste are a rarity in the city.

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn 9am to 11pm daily Known for their American-styled burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex, the two-storey Mogambo claims pride of place as one of the city’s longest running restobars. A well-known expat meeting spot, Savannah-esque, bamboo décor and booth seating make up the mix together with a pleasant bar space. Dishes run from fajitas and burritos through to chicken cordon bleu, pies, the coronary bypass burger, salad, soup, gumbos and spare ribs.

DOMINO'S PIZZA

PIZZA 4P’S

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 10am to late Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its mural of Copenhagen taking up the length of one wall attracts a mix of Scandinavian and international punters, all enjoying the offerings from the well-stocked bar and the reasonably priced Danish-influenced pub grub menu. Dishes include Danishstyle fried pork and meatballs, frankfurt sausages, a range of grilled fare, burgers and much more. Has three screens for the live sport and seating areas out back and upstairs.

AMERICAN PIZZA DELIVERY 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7; The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn 10am to 10pm Despite its delivery-only reputation, Domino's in Vietnam is also doing a roaring trade with eat in diners thanks to its upstairs restaurant space. It's all very casual, of course, with the pizzas served out of the box, but with a range of combos starting at VND70,000 for a small pizza and coke, and now with thin crust available, the Domino's taste and experience has successfully been imported to Vietnam. Check their website for full menu and specials.

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 9838 www.pizza4ps.com 11.30am to 11pm, Tue-Sun Italian tradition meets Japanese ingenuity at Pizza 4P’s. This quirky fusion pizza parlor serves whacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza, calamari seaweed pizza and teriyaki chicken pizza, as well as more traditional types such as quattro formaggi, marinara and the old faithful, margherita pizza. Those with an adventurous streak can also order their pizza half and half. Pan-European and Asian soups, salads and a la carte mains make up the rest of the menu.

ELBOW ROOM

FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

IMPERIAL RUSSIAN 6 Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3829 4644 11am to late A larger than life-size Russian doll stands outside the entrance of this three-storey beautiful mismatch-of-styles, Russianrun venue. Filled with Eastern European imagery, red theatre-style curtains and Soviet propaganda art, the weekly changing Russian menu includes the likes of borsh, Russian salad, dumplings and cutlets, and can be adapted to your needs for party bookings. Located close to Basilico.

KITA RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

REFINERY

SCOTT AND BINH'S

SUBWAY 171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 4497 Ground Floor, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4849 121 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 3914 4118 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere. Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

TRADERS

NEW YORK/ INTERNATIONAL 76 Bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 3556 7am to midnight Located in the stock market area in between the canal and Ham Nghi, this

Cafe fare made with American flair

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0948 901465 www.bizuhotel.com/main/pages/sb-food.php 4pm to 11pm. Closed Monday American chef/owner Scott Marquis offers a creative international menu that he likes to call “comfort food with a twist”. Serving all homemade soups, salads, sharing plates, burgers, sandwiches, pastas, main courses and desserts, the restaurant also boasts a full bar, ice cold beer and an international wine list to complement your meal. Also has a daily happy hour from 4pm to 7pm on ‘buy one get one free’ bottled beers and local spirits mixed drinks to complement the usual selection.

SNAP CAFE INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 3519 4532 www.snap.com.vn 7.30am to 10.30pm (weekdays). 7.30am to 11.30pm (weekends) A huge banyan tree sits in the entrance of Snap Cafe, a rustic-themed airy cafe and retail space with thatched roofing, jungle-like foliage and a kiddy’s play area. Breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, mains including Asian cuisine and weekly specials make up the cuisine mix, complemented by a range of benches and sofa seating that gives this venue a unique feel. Retail outlets include Oasis Deli, a furniture store and YB Designs jewellery.

Burgers Panini Baguettes American Breakfasts Tex-Mex Asian Specialties

Rooftop 23rd Floor, Centec Tower 169a De Tham

@ Tran Hung Dao Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 7am-2am daily

72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Just next to Diamond Plaza Tel: (08) 3827 9631 | Fax: (08) 3827 9632

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out & about

AN PHU BLU BAR & GRILL 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 An easy, breezy light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river serves up comfort food and Asian standards. Also with a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. BOATHOUSE APSC Compound, 40 Lily Road, Q2 info@boathouse.com.vn The menu is built around surf and turf. Lunch comprises of a healthy selection of soups, salads and sandwiches while dinner concentrates on top–end beef, seafood and pastas. CAFÉ EVITA 230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Pizzas, salads, burgers, pastas, ice cream and a whole lot more besides is on hand to keep the entire family full and happy at this bright, airy and well kitted–out eatery. GAUDI 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4722 A Spanish tapas restaurant decorated in the style of Spanish architect Gaudi. Italian dishes such as pizza, risotto and pasta are also on offer. GOOD EATS NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Connected to NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, the menu is based on the theme of maintaining a long and healthy life. MEKONG MERCHANT 23 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 Superb dining space in leafy, shaded courtyard. Fresh Phu Quoc seafood is the speciality. Other staples are homemade pizzas, salads and daily specials. SNAP CAFE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Chilled, rustic, open–air style cafe set in a large courtyard with comfortable wooden seating, banana–leaf roofing and an outdoor playground area for kids. TAMAGO 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4634 Serving a range of authentic Japanese dishes and sushi, Tamago offers a weekly Sunday buffet lunch and BBQ/ yakiniku on Thursday evenings. Indoor and outdoor seating, with a great terrace. Private rooms also available. Call for home delivery.

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funky, Wall Street-styled restobar takes the concept of its name and mixes it with an ever-changing set of deals on drinks and cuisine. With cash-obsessed, comic strip style American artwork lining the walls and a great, curved long bar, the French-influenced American food menu includes pizza, hotdogs, salads, tartines and bracket kebabs. Great concept and a good place for more than just a beer.

wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

WARDA

BOAT HOUSE

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 7.30am to 11pm daily The river plays a big role in this spacious restrobar in An Phu on the banks of Saigon's river. The menu offers seasonal dishes that include share plates, mains, classics and desserts along with a hearty breakfast menu and kids menu. Boat House caters for small to large functions, with three areas to choose from within an ideal private setting. Also provides occasional live music, mini festivals and various themed events.

ZERO RESTAURANT & BAR

+ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 15 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3822 4593 www.zerorestaurant.com 10am to midnight A great place to while away several hours eating and drinking some of Saigon’s newest cuisine together with international wines, Zero is a boutique and intimate restaurant and bar. The food is varied and includes western and Vietnamese breakfasts, and lunches boast perennial favourites like burgers, fish n chips, 4 n 20 Aussie meat pies and some tasty local fare, all prepared with a twist. Daily happy hour from 3pm to 7pm.

ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 3897 vscooterguy@yahoo.com 7am to 2am daily Known for its excellent scooter-themed burgers, this Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a Vietnamese-style sidewalk drinking haunt by night. A corner location, friendly staff and American deli-style fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Also serves Tex-Mex and Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a Vespa tour service from within the café.

MID TO TOP ALIBI

INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

BOOMERANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 6592 www.boomerang.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Take the Esplanades in Singapore, transport one of the Lion City’s seafrontstyle restaurants to Vietnam and you have Boomerang, a two-story, Australianthemed but Singapore-owned eatery and bar with great terraced seating specializing in international fare all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. The menu runs the gamut from pizzas (around VND220,000) through to grills, salads and burgers (around VND185,000).

BLU BAR & GRILL INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 7am to 11pm An easy, breezy, light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river. Serves up international comfort food such as burgers and pizzas as well as tasty Asian standards. Also has a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. Part of the Riverside Apartments complex. Check for daily boat schedule between the complex and downtown Saigon.

BROTZEIT

FIGARO

ITALIAN-STYLE TAPAS / RESTOBAR 17 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 9095 10am to 11pm Specialising in Italian-style tapas and fine dining in a casual setting, Figaro offers an assortment of aperrandivi dishes, weekly blackboard specials, gourmet pizzas, pastas and salads, and an extensive selection of wines by the bottle from Italy, France, Chile, Australia and New Zealand. Premium beers, spirits and cocktails make up the rest.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.vn 8am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the well known Australian chain mixes hearty pub grub such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere thanks to the big screen TVs regularly showing various sporting events. Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long bar space and grassy/patio outdoor terrace, drinks include a mainly new world wine list and various local and imported beers and spirits. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

KUMHO LINK AT KUMHO ASIANA + PLAZA SAIGON 39 Le Duan, Q1 www.kumholink.com.vn/en As Saigon’s one and only dedicated “Drinking and Dining destination”, Kumho Link has made a name for itself by being able to suit everyone’s food and drink desires: with quality Western, Hong Kong Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Singaporean, Thai and Vietnamese fare, along with great cocktails, imported German Beer and live music.

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4206 www.brotzeit.co/kumholink 11am to 12am daily The city’s first contemporary German bier bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers wellknown German black, blonde and gold beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine — think sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed, contemporary yet chic setting. Almost a Bavarian variation of the British gastropub chain All Bar One, the interior comprises wooden benches, wooden tables and a long wooden bar counter, as well as a semi open-air balcony overlooking Le Duan.

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am Cuban–themed bar and restaurant selling a tasty range of Cuban and Spanish cuisine. The signature seafood–based paella goes for VND330,000 for two people and a big selection of tapas starts at VND40,000 each. Also has a small German menu featuring favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Does excellent cocktails, and,three–course lunches, including a drink, for under VND200,000.

CHARNER CAFÉ

MEKONG MERCHANT

EUROPEAN/ASIAN 98 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 6065 7am to 11pm Situated above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, Charner Café offers pan-European and Asian cuisine despite its overtly mid-to-late 20th century Parisian-inspired interior. Excellent soups, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes are all available at reasonable prices ranging from VND120,000 to VND350,000, as are Chinese and Thai-style Asian courses. Also serves breakfast, brunch and good coffee.

LA HABANA

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com 8am to 10pm daily. MM Bistro 6.30am to 9pm daily. The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place to go in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard with a kids’ play area, a bar space, wicker-style seating and notice boards galore, the cuisine is a mixture of gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, salads, pasta and pizza interlaced with Gulf of Thailand seafood imported directly from Phu Quoc.

Also does a great breakfast. A recent addition is the aircon, bakery-style MM Bistro out front.

MY PLACE

195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 8301 www.myplace.com.vn 11am to late, Tue-Sun Renovated from an old French colonial-era villa, My Place is a sleek, high-end gastropub with private salons, an idyllic garden space and several bar areas. Serves both local and international fare including stews, clams, pasta dishes and finger food. Also does a BBQ every Saturday night, brunches on Sundays and offers various daily food and drinks promotions.

PASHA

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas. Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene. The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

VASCO’S AT THE CRESCENT

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Q7 Tel: 5414 1717 11am to 11pm. Closed Mondays A restaurant rather than a bar and events space, the District 7 incarnation of the iconic downtown bar Vasco’s offers up outdoor, terrace-style seating together with an attractive upstairs bar and lounge area. Also has a great selection of wines courtesy of Bacchus Corner, who have a mini store on the premises. The cuisine runs the gamut from the likes of beef carpaccio and goat’s cheese salad all the way through to the beef tenderloin, seabass in Serrano ham and excellent pizzas.

VINO WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily

The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 11am to midnight The downstairs café-cum-lounge bar of this iconic downtown modern Vietnamese restaurant mixes subtle lighting with contemporary artwork ands design touches, a swathe of browns, cream, maroon, sofa-style seating and deep red upholstery. Serving a range of international fare together with Vietnamese dishes throughout the day, nighttime turns this venue into an upmarket, downtown bar. Known for its cocktails and extensive wine list.

ZANZBAR

INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

TOP-END AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3820 7157 www.aulacdobrazil.com 5pm to 10.30pm Au Lac Do mixes a Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. Heading up the menu is the churrasco, the Brazilian barbecue, with 12 cuts of smoked, barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, all hand carved quite theatrically at your table. Not surprisingly the place can get a little busy, so best to book. Has a second restaurant at 36/19–21 Ground floor, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7.

BLANCHY’S TASH JAPANESE / PERUVIAN FUSION 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 11am to 3am Located in a three-storey building in the centre of downtown Saigon – and named after French colonial-era mayor Rue Paul Blanchy — this popular high-end restobar pulls in both diners and latenight revellers thanks to its inventive Japanese-Peruvian fusion menu (designed by former Nobu chef Martin Brito), late opening hours and regular DJ sets. Check out their sashimi and tartares. Mouthwateringly good.

CHILL SKYBAR 26th & 27th Floor Rooftop, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 2372 www.chillsaigon.com 5pm to 10pm (restaurant). 5pm to 2am (bar & lounge) Offering breath-taking views of the city, Chill consists of an upscale restaurant, posh sky bar and a sophisticated lounge. The music schedule offers everything from chill-out, R&B and sexy house to hip-hop. A “Sunset Happy Hour Special” runs Mondays through Thursdays from 5.30pm

out & about

DISTRICT 7 CAFÉ TERRACE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2178 CREMONA 55 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Italian–style cake shop and café that serves excellent coffees and tasty sweets. GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2289 International–style coffee house with the usual range of cappucinos, frappucinos and mochaccions to drink or take away. JUJAEGEUM Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Enormous bakery, patisserie and chocolatier. LA PIZZA ITALIANA SF 19-1 Canh Vien 1 Duong Pho Tieu Nam, Q7 Tel: 08 5417 0511/2 - for deliveries Selling authentic Italian thin-crust pizzas & a selection of pasta dishes. LOVE NOODLE HOUSE D002 Nguyen Binh, Q7 Singaporean noodle house. NATHALIE’S THAI RESTAURANT S9–HV3 Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 A strong neighbourhood vibe at this pleasantly decorated Thai eatery–cum–café. OHAN S1 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Quality Japanese fare in a stylish atmosphere. Prices are higher but so is quality. ONE MORE SA9–1 My Khanh III, Ha Huy Tap, Q7 An everybody–knows–your–name type atmosphere at this local bar. PARIS DELI Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 PIZZA INN 4 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 1196 SARPINO’S PIZZA GrandView Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2480 SURASANG 1417 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Korean deli displaying bowl after bowl of various types of kim chi and other traditional fare. THE TAVERN R2–24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 3900 Cold beer, friendly service, a convivial atmosphere and a pavement terrace make this a perfect place for a pit stop any time of the day. TIB Broadway Building, 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 6868 TOKYO DELI SC6–1 Parkview Building, Q7 Tel: 5410 1166 WRAP & ROLL SA1–1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 5412 0461 YEEBO Broadway Building, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Flashy hotpot joint great for large parties.

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out & about to 8:30pm. Make sure to dress well as Chill operates a no-shorts/no-sandals dress code policy.

CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 6am to 11pm The sleek, contemporary brown and cream decor at this street level steakhouse in the Norfolk Hotel plays host to a gem of a place close to Ben Thanh Market. Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range US or Australian steaks as well as the great grill and comfort food menu makes this a good option for a quality bite. Steaks start at VND390,000 for a decent sized cut. Does a nightly, competitively priced wine buffet.

EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3825 1879 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late A pleasant downtown eatery mixing the Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. The smaller downstairs and kitchen area is complemented by a no-smoking dining space upstairs replete with a bar and an outdoor terrace. Add to this bar-brick wall decor, light-wood tables and Argentinian themed photography on the walls and you have a well-rounded, popular restaurant only a stone’s throw from the Opera House.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE & WINERY AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7373 www.steakhouse.com.vn 11am to midnight Evoking a retro, black and white Hollywood movie star environment, NYSW is known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, table-carved double strip loins and chateaubriands. Side dishes include black truffle cream spinach, potato dauphinois and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive wine list adds to the overall dining experience, which is enhanced by the all red and grey diner-style décor. Has an upstairs cigar room.

NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine. Often puts on specials and brings in overseas chefs. Presently regarded as one of the best buffet restaurants in town.

PARKVIEW INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 6am to 10pm The ground floor, flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, the minimalist yet slightly kitsch décor here is designed to bring out the colours and ambiance of the restaurant’s lavish buffets. Served three times a day, with a number of alternative cooking stations, the cuisine runs the gamut from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood to creative salads, cold cuts and cheese plates to a range of desserts. Also does an excellent range of promotions. Check their website for details.

QUO VADIS INTERNATIONAL FUSION 5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 8am to 11pm This lounge-restaurant (below Lavish) is centrally located and has elegant, peaceful and cozy surroundings. The décor includes reproduction furniture, sculptures, flowers and oil paintings, and the menu has a great range of well-presented Asian and European dishes. The service is friendly, relaxed and attentive. A great place to meet friends to relax, eat and drink.

REFLECTIONS INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 6pm to 11pm Pan-Mediterranean and European dishes make up the bulk of the offerings at the refined but surprisingly fresh Reflections. The Caravelle Hotel’s signature restaurant, old images of the city grace the walls while a pianist plays nightly in the separate bar area. And yet the fare is surprisingly contemporary. Cosy yet elegant, a well–sourced wine list and a pre-bookable private dining room make this a good choice for that special meal or to entertain people who need to be entertained.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 6am to 11pm Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus an ongoing roster of themed lunches in a fresh, elegant setting.

SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270–degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfortspared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

STRATA INTERNATIONAL Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 6291 8750 www.cirrussaigon.com 10am to 10pm Strata is an all-day restaurant and events venue offering a panoramic view of Saigon. Food offered includes an express business lunch from 11:30am to 2pm, high tea from 2:30pm to 5pm and a buffet dinner 6:30pm to 10pm, as well as an all-day a la carte menu. A separate private function space provides a suitable venue for business meetings, corporate events, seminars/conferences, and private dining.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm. Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN BUDGET MARGHERITA ITALIAN, TEX-MEX, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3837 0760 8am to 11pm daily This family-run restaurant has been on of the Backpackers’ Area mainstays for well over a decade, selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas all mixed in with pan-western cuisine, tasty Vietnamese fare and a few Tex-Mex dishes. Amiable owners, a pleasant atmosphere, reasonable pricing and an efficient delivery service make up the mix.

SALT AND PEPPER TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7. Tel: 5412 4848 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm Located in the modern confines of The Crescent, this contemporary-styled Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an open kitchen and a relaxing outdoor terrace area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian cuisine, the menu includes a nice selection of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas and desserts, all at affordable prices. At night the cozy atmosphere creates the ideal ambience for a dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine.

MID-RANGE CENTRO CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm A contemporary Italian-themed cafe and restaurant mixing the best of the peninsular’s coffee — anything from ristrettos and macchiattos to frappuccinis — with a decent cafe-based food menu that also includes a more extensive selection of mains. As well as a substantial range of meat and vegetarian panini and crostini, there are also Italian rice dishes, creative salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat or seafood-based mains.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 3329 www.saigonrestaurantgroup.com 9am to 11pm A fun and affordable New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of interesting and tasty antipasti, pastas, pizzas and more. Friendly and attentive staff, rustic bare brick walls and warm Tuscan yellow colouring make for a relaxed and attractive setting to dine while Sinatra, Deano and Sammy croon in the background.

STELLA CAFFE

ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm daily Besides serving up one of the best lattes in town, the tasteful, two-storey Caffe Stella has become one of the main expat haunts in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly staff, decent WiFi, reasonable Italian cuisine and indoor aircon space. Although there are a number of Vietnamese dishes on offer, the cuisine here is all Italian – think antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata and Italian-style mains – all sold at decent prices.

PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: 6253 2828 www.pendolasco.vn 11am to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this

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{cafe CRITIQUE}

Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

MID TO TOP

PHOTO BY EJ CHUNG

BASILICO

CAFÉ ME AMIDST THE HONKING horns and traffic, this quaint café is a welcome sight. Upon entering you’re greeted with a display of arts and crafts from Creative Home, that shares the same space. Adorning the ground floor are miniature cyclos, motorbikes, planes and automobiles. An ornate wooden horse rocker by the pseudo fireplace completes the homey ambiance. The ground floor boasts of a mix of cushy and wrought iron garden furniture with a chandelier overhead. If you're planning an afternoon of gab with friends, this is a perfect place to chatter and chill. If you head upstairs, the afternoon sun shines brightly through the glass walls facing the street - a welcome contrast from the shadows of the lower floor. Hanging on the walls are black and white photographs of iconic places and faces in Europe. On one side are albums upon albums of fashion photos taken from all over the world. The atmosphere here is more for business meetings but if you chance by the upper floor with nobody else around, you can read a book undisturbed. CHECKMATE If you’re also looking for

DRINKS: 4/5

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a place to have a small party, the upper floor can fit 30 people comfortably at VND100,000 per hour. If however your party has more than 15 people, the place is free as long as you order your drinks. Café Me’s menu has an extensive drinks list that includes coffee, tea, juice, shake, smoothies and Italian soda priced modestly from VND30,000 to VND65,000. Interestingly, their signature coffees are named after chess pieces: King, Queen, Rook, Knight, and Bishop — true to the café’s black and white checkered floors. For chocolate lovers, the cocoaconut smoothie, a combination of cacao and coconut, is a delicious musttry drink. And if you want to try a refreshing mix, order their bestseller, strawberry matcha. Don’t let this green concoction turn you off because each sip is divine. The verdict? Cafe Me is just the right place to get away from all the business with a variety of drinks to tease your palate. Visit Café Me at 8A Luong Huu Khanh, Q1. Check out their website at www.cafeme.biz

AMBIENCE: 3/5

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Cnr. Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.icasianasaigon.com 6.30am to 10.30pm A sleek, modern-styled trattoria attached to the back of the Intercontinental, the professionally designed, international Italian fare encompasses anything from carne and pesce dishes through to pizza, pasta, baguettes, focaccia and panini. Has a breezy, tree-shaded outdoor street terrace area and is often packed at mealtimes. For being part of a five-star, prices here are very reasonable.

CASA ITALIA CLASSIC ITALIAN 86 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn 10am to midnight Pompeii ceiling tiling, Roman arches and a classic Italian feel pervade this restaurant close to Ben Thanh Market. The fare mixes international Italian cuisine such carbonara, Bolognese and Arrabiata dishes with regional specialities such as the linguine sfiziose and excellent woodfire oven pizzas. Has a good selection of mains as well as an intimate wine cellarstyle dining space upstairs.

LA HOSTARIA TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful, rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House. The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni. This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

TOP-END LA BRACERIA PIZZA & GRILL 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn The pastel-coloured, Roman arch brickwork of this airy, three-storey restaurant provides the setting for a more unusual variation on the Italian theme — the grill. Cooked over lava stones (think Mount Etna) or in the wood-fired pizza oven, dishes include steaks, lamb chops, Andouillette sausage, skewers and a range of seafood, all marinated with a selection of Mediterranean spices. Also does a range of pasta, pizza and traditional starters.

OPERA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 6am to 11pm Unpretentious, casual but elegant bistro– style restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu which starts with pasta and wood–fired pizza, and then moves on to an expertly crafted selection of gourmet fare. A terrace offers the chance to observe the city goings–on. The wine list is a compact selection from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and great open kitchens. Has a laid-back separate bar area, too.

RESTAURANTS – JAPANESE & KOREAN

BUDGET ASIAN KITCHEN PAN-ASIAN / JAPANESE 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 7397 7am to midnight daily While standard Japanese day-to-day fare is the focus of this long-running, bamboo-clad eatery close to Chi’s Café, the menu here also includes Vietnamese, Indian, western and vegetarian options. With prices remaining at rock bottom – VND45,000 to VND65,000 for a mains — Asian Kitchen is a favourite with budget tourists and is highly rated on Trip Advisor.

TOKYO BBQ JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 2527 9.30am to 2pm, 4.30pm to midnight The wooden and charcoal panelling together with the open downstairs kitchen and upstairs swathed-in-red dining area give this contemporary Japanese eatery a casual but comfortable ambience. Specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoal-grilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, while the various other meat and vegetable options are also an excellent choice. Does a great lunch set starting at under VND100,000, rising to just under VND300,000 for the barbecue set.

MID-RANGE DRAGON NOODLE JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3521 0008 www.ramen.vn 11am to 1am Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the defining feature of this decidedly Japanese eatery is the black and white sketch of old Saigon stretching the whole length of the righthand wall. Bar-table as well as standard seating adds to the atmosphere while the menu focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also has a number of stir-fried options and a rice dish-based lunch menu.

MUS MUS JAPANESE HOTPOT 117 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3930 9185 www.musmus.net 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm An excellent slither of a place specialising in Japanese-style hotpots, shabu-shabu and, in particular, the awesome steamed hotpot. Choose 12 ingredients (including meats and seafood) from the menu and steam over a broth on your table. Eat the remaining soup with rice or noodles. A great, tasty and remarkably healthy dish. And it’s cheap, too.

KABUTO TOKYO

JAPANESE / FUSION 45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 2351 11am to 1.30am Aiming to add some "Nippon (Japanese) culture” to Saigon’s dining scene, Kabuto Tokyo offers typical Japanese cuisine such as sushi and sashimi, fusion dishes like

Kabuto Mushi and steamed Vietnamese seafood, and various skewers (roasted pork, Yakitori chicken) with salted rice and soy flavoured rice malts. The restaurant itself mixes Manga cartoons on the walls with golden ceilings and traditional Japanese armour, swords and huge carp steamer lantern displays.

OOO / MARUSAN YAKITORI / CHICKEN RESTAURANT 37 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 9000 www.yakitori-ooo.com 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Possibly one of the most eye-catching Japanese restaurants in town, this snug two-storey space mixes light wooden and bare industrial brick decor with a downstairs wooden topped bar area and upstairs cubby holes for semi-private dining. Serving all things chicken from hotpots and yakitori fare through to deep fried chicken on a huge bed of dried chillis, the trilingual menu also includes Korean soju, saki, a big selection of wine and imported Japanese beer.

OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 11am to 3am Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm Sunday If you like your noodles in every possible form and prefer them to be Japanese, then this sleek, open-kitchened contemporary eatery may just be a little slice of heaven. Served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes, the ramen are supplemented by a range of smaller, appetizing sides. The Phu My Hung branch is on Nguyen Duc Canh next to S’Cottage.

SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr 7am to 10pm Now on its third location, the simply designed Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular. Two floors with a mixture of standard and sit-on-the-floor seating cater for a cosmopolitan clientele. The cuisine takes on the full Korean food spreadsheet with everything from banchan starters, kim chi and bulgoggi through to barbecues, claypot mixed rice and awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

YAMANEKO JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko–vn.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 1am Tucked away in an alley off Le Thanh Ton, the funky Yamaneko offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Including dishes such as buta no syoga yaki tesuko (grilled pork marinated in ginger sauce) and rafute soba tesoku (Okinawa soba noodle with soft stewed pork). Standard Japanese fare is also on hand if you don’t want to dive into something a little different. Does a great set lunch deal

MID TO TOP INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3829 0326 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita. Originally from Osaka this old hand travelled the world prior to serving a stint at the former Omni Hotel (now Moevenpick). His present venture features diminutive downstairs bar seating and upstairs space together with some of the best sushi and sashimi in town. The key

is not just in the cutting and preparation, but in the ingredients and presentation. Here it is faultless.

SUSHI DINING AOI SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 Tel: 3930 0039 www.sushidiningaoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. All sushi dishes are prepared by a professional sushi chef from Japan. Tasty set lunches start from a very reasonably priced VND90,000.

URAETEI BBQ RESTAURANT JAPANESE BBQ 2A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 6673 9373 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Cool and dark, this forest grotto of a restaurant deals in natural finishes and a sense of isolated calm, all added to by private booths and food prepared at the table. Dishes include salty fish/squid, fresh raw beef, smoked chicken, fried pork cutlet, seafood pizza, sukiyaki and shabu shabu hot pot. The speciality here, though, is yakiniku, traditional Japanese grilled meat. Delicious.

RESTAURANTS – SOUTHEAST ASIAN

BUDGET CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in

its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

MID-RANGE BAAN THAI PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 5453 www.baanthai-anphu.com 11am to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday. Open until midnight on Friday and Saturday Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating fill the restaurant and lounge bar area of this eatery on the main drag in An Phu. The menu focuses on a range of rice, noodle, fried and curry dishes with a mix of other fare including a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as a selection of salads, including the likes of the firey larb moo and Laotian som tam.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn 11am to 10pm Whitewashed décor with a distinctly Thai theme – images of the Royal family, elephant embroidery and more – provide the atmosphere at this excellent, longrunning restaurant. The fare runs from laab salads (from VND75,000) through to curries (from VND75,000), traditional Thai mains, som tam (VND70,000), fish cakes and dishes such as the deep-fried catfish with mango salad (VND75,000). Has three VIP rooms upstairs.

JASMINE THAI PAN-THAI Tel: 3519 0038 Tues to Sun 5pm to 9.30pm A cosy, Thai-style garden dining area with a children’s playroom, this eatery off the main drag in An Phu provides soft, candle-lit lighting, Thai music and

food Promos out & about

CARAVELLE Every Wednesday in July enjoy a Long Carvery Buffet at Nineteen. Includes beef ribs, turkey and honey-glazed ham. Priced at VND1,013,000++ per person including free flow house wine. From Jul. 14 to Jul. 20 feast on Oysters and Champagne at Reflections. Fin de Claire oysters will be served alongside native oysters with traditional condiments. Enjoy the oysters prepared in five different ways. Prices start from VND286,000++ for half a dozen. Reinvent South America’s street festival with Carnival Bash at Saigon Saigon Bar on Saturday Jul. 28. Bring a costume and dance the night away. www.caravellehotel.com HOTEL EQUATORIAL Celebrate American Independence Day from Jul. 1 to 14 and discover American cuisine. Chit Chat at The Cafe is offering a buffet dinner for VND760,000++/adult and half price for kids under 12. Orientica is hosting American Seafood from Jul. 1 to Jul. 14. Enjoy a selection of seafood for lunch or dinner and celebrate Independence Day. Enjoy four award-winning dishes at Orientica from Jul. 15 to 31. For VND840,000, the executive chef and culinary team will recreate the dishes that won the silver medal from the MLA Black Box Culinary Challenge 2012. Watch the Olympics live in Flo Lobby Lounge with buy 1 beer get 1 free all day. A special menu has also been designed for the event. Email dine@hcm.equatorial.com for details HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON Come to Viva La Fiesta Latina at La Brasserie and sample food from a range of Latin American countries with a dinner buffet from Jul. 14 to Jul. 20. Enjoy tacos, paella and more while listening to Latin American music. Free flow tequila, margaritas and more. Priced at VND720,000. www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON Mojito Saturday Lunches at Market

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39 kick-start on Jul. 7. Priced at VND688,000, the lunch includes food and unlimited mojitos. The Olympic Experience at Market 39 features an Olympic station on the buffet representing all the countries involved. Enjoy a buffet lunch for VND498,000 excluding drinks or a buffet dinner for VND598,000 without drinks. A special Friday and Saturday dinner buffet is priced at VND698,000 without drinks. Basilico celebrates each Italian Gold Medal this Olympics by serving a complimentary Gelato flavour of the day to each guest who says “Gold to Italy” upon arrival at the restaurant. Available Jul. 27 to Aug. 12. Watch Formula 1 on the big screen at Purple Jade and enjoy a buy 1 get 1 free from a selected drinks list. Available Jul. 8, 22 and 29. Games and prizes to be won daily during the Olympic Games. Daily at 6pm from Jul. 27 to Aug. 12. www.ichotelsgroup.com MEKONG MERCHANT & MM BISTRO SAIGON Enjoy tea for two with a traditional tea and classic refreshment including strawberries and clotted cream, homemade scones, cupcakes, salmon finger sandwich and more. www.mekongmerchant.com NEW WORLD SAIGON Dynasty is featuring a Peking duck lunch and dinner special from Jul. 9 to Jul. 22. Priced at VND780,000 per bird, enjoy a range of dishes from crispy duck skin, duck bone soup and deep-fried duck meat. Alternatively, sample the tasting menu with four duck dishes and a dessert for VND735,000 including Chinese tea. www.newworldhotels.com NOVOTEL NHA TRANG To welcome the summer holiday, The Square restaurant will serve a seafood buffet dinner every day. The dinner costs VND420,000++/ person or VND900,000++ with free flow wine. Guests will also receive a gift voucher to Vous Spa priced at VND150,000. www.novotel-nhatrang.com

See more at wordhcmc.com RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON Enjoy Hot Pot with freshly caught seafood, delectable broths and a cosy place to get together. Every Thursday until Jul. 30 at Kabin. Priced at VND616,000++/person. Feast on an array of seafood from fresh oysters to mussels, Vietnamese snails, tiger prawns, deep sea fish and lobsters. Served daily at Riverside Café. Priced at VND640,000++/person (food only) and VND840,000++/person (including free flow of red or white wine, beer and soft drinks). Kabin’s “All You Can Eat” Dim Sum lunch and “All You Can Eat” dinner. Brunch — Dim Sum “All you can eat” is served on Sundays and is priced at VND540,000++/ person. Lunch — Dim Sum “All You Can Eat” Served daily and priced at VND450,000++/person. Dinner — “All You Can Eat” priced at VND540,000++/person. www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/ sgnbr-renaissance-riverside-hotelsaigon SHERATON SAIGON Say farewell to Liquid band at Nightspot on Jul. 21. The band will play their top songs and guests are invited to be the lead vocalist of the night for Liquid’s favourite song. Enjoy a buy 1 get 1 free offer all night. Welcome new band, Motion on Jul. 28. Enjoy a buy 1 get 1 free offer all night. Celebrate America’s Independence Day at Saigon Café on Jul 4. There will be a selection of dishes including barbecued chicken, sea bass, guava glazed pork ribs and more. Also enjoy highlight dishes with the American theme night every Saturday from Jul. 7 to Jul. 28 with free flowing wine and beer. Priced at VND910,000++. Email sheratonsaigon@sheraton. com for details STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL Enjoy a lunch seafood buffet from Jul. 2 at La Mezzanine. For VND499,000++ per person, enjoy variety of fresh local and imported fish, crabs and more with one free Sapporo Beer or soft drink.

a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine runs the gamut from Bangkok Thai through to Laotian and Isaan cuisine, with anything from massaman and green curries through to lap ped and mains such as phad prew wan gai. Also does an efficient District 2 delivery service that includes The Manor and Saigon Pearl.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic five-storey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

MONSOON RESTAURANT & BAR SAIGON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: 6290 8899 10am to 11pm Located minutes away from the backpacker area in a beautifully restored French colonial-era villa, Monsoon Restaurant & Bar Saigon specialises in pan-Southeast Asian cuisine from Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. Reasonably priced, with a great selection of health-conscious smoothies and juices, expect traditional favourites served in a boldly contemporary and visually arresting setting.

NATHALIE'S PAN-THAI S9 Hung Vuong 3, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 www.nathaliesrestaurant.com 7am to 10pm Both a cafe and a restaurant, its corner location on the opposite side of the highway from KFC has gained Nathalies's a reputation among Vietnamese, Asian expats and more. Claiming to serve up 'Thai Fine Cuisine', all cooked without MSG, and with a particular focus on seafood, mains on the pan-Thai menu go for between VND100,000 and VND200,000. Also has an outdoor Thai noodle stand.

MID-TO-TOP KOH THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 4423 www.kohthai.vn 11am to 12am daily A modern Thai fusion restaurant that merges traditional Thai flavours with contemporary European presentation and cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus on set menus while the evening fare concentrates on a la carte. An extensive wine list and creative cocktails merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

VICKI’S TEPPANYAKI & BBQ 42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3232, www.vickis.com.vn 11am to 11pm Offering teppanyaki-style live cooking over seven floors, this completely non-smoking restaurant is fun for all the family. Headed up by Thailand’s No. 1 teppanyaki chef, the all-Thai cheffing team possess an arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, with each chef preparing the food in front of guests on a traditional teppanyaki-style grill. Offering fresh local and imported meats and seafood at market prices,

customers can also choose from an extensive set menu ranging from around VND500,000 to VND1.2 million per person . RESTAURANTS

– VIETNAMESE

BUDGET BANH XEO 46A BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes. Beefsteak Nam Son

District 1, the cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap, too, with mains going for well under VND100,000, and portions are also on the large side. Well worth a visit

PHAP HOA VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3839 5893 6am to 9pm If you desire service with a smile, avoid Phap Hoa. This vegetarian eatery is a truly functional place, with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with faux meat such tomato stuffed with pork and meat-filled cabbage rolls sitting alongside mushroom, tomato and tofu fare. It tastes good, too. Just don’t expect the staff to bat you more than an eyelid.

PHO HOA

188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3930 3917 6am to 10pm Set down an alleyway in an outdoor courtyard with an additional indoor dining space, this well-known eatery specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak. Served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, you can add pate or an egg, all for well under VND100,000. Has a second restaurant at 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. English menu available.

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3829 7943 6am to midnight Everything at this famous but strikingly traditional pho joint is largesse. From the size of the portions through to the plates of banh quay and fresh herbs as well as the myriad of other accoutrements, it’s all double-sized. Fortunately looks don’t deceive and this distinctly southern version of Vietnam’s national dish tastes good, too. Choose from a range of cuts of beef and spice to taste. Gets busy so expect to share tables.

BO NE LE HONG

PHO 99

STEAK / BANH CUON 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 5106 11.30am to 22.30pm Stuffed down an alleyway close to the intersection of Huynh Van Banh and Le Van Sy, the bo ne offering at this fancooled, plastic stool eatery is one of the best in town. Served up sizzling with pate, fried egg, onions, chips and of course local beef, price-wise Le Hong remains very much a budget option. Is also known for its excellent banh cuon.

PHO / STEAK 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 2791 6am to 2.30am Although essentially one the city's better pho restaurants, putting Vietnam's most iconic dish in a pleasant aircon setting, the two-storey, late-night Pho 99 is also known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of local beef bought in Cu Chi. Served up with mushrooms, onions and fries, the dish goes for well under VND100,000 a go, and is one of the best beefy bargains in town. It tastes good, too.

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE

COM TAM THUAN KIEU COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1, TEL: 3925 0935 www.comtamthuankieu.com.vn The multi-storey, downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery close to Cho Ray Hospital. Swathed in yellow and green and packed all day long, the fare here is everything com tam (bitty rice) - think suon nuong (barbecued pork), xiu mai (meatballs), thit heo quay (roasted pork), canh kho qua (bitter gourd broth) and muc don thit (squid stuffed with pork). Prices are cheap, too with the standard meal going for around VND30,000. Has an English menu.

NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3825 0261 www.namgiao.com 7.30am to 10pm Set down an alleyway opposite Ben Thanh market and surrounded by a bizarre plethora of hole-in-the-wall beauty salons, this pleasantly attired, long-running Huestyle eatery is known for its excellent bun bo-style soups and central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen and much more. All the mains go for under VND50,000. Has a second eatery on Suong Nguyet Anh.

PAPAYA RESTAURANT PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 10am to 10pm The work of the eponymous owner and head chef Chi Nghia, Papaya is one of the city's unsung gems. Tucked down a tangle of streets near the canal on the edge of

QUAN HO GUOM HANOI STREET FOOD 177 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 9185 This local, chrome table-topped eatery may not look like much, but except for the addition of Saigonese-style fresh herbs it does some pretty tasty and authentic Hanoi street fare. Dishes include the moreish bun cha (rice noodles with barbecue pork), nem ran cua bien (deepfried crab spring rolls), bun mang ga (rice noodle chicken and bamboo shoots soup) and banh cuon thanh tri (wet rice paper rolls), all at budget prices. Also sells decent com binh dan (rice plate dishes) at lunchtime. No English menu.

SAIGON VEGAN VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3834 4473 7am to 2pm. 4pm to 10pm A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat. Furnished with dark rustic wooden tables and chairs, Japanese-style wooden carvings and tropical foliage on the terrace area outdoors, the specialities here are the hotpots and the daily specials. But the vegan menu runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes. Also has a range of sautéed fair.

TIN NGHIA VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3821 2538 7am to 2pm, 4pm to 9pm One of the city’s oldest eateries (it was established in 1925), this plain but charming holistic little venue located close to Ben Thanh Market also does some of

the tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Cooked up without onions, garlic and MSG, the fare ranges from curry noodles and fried rice through to a tantalizing selection of non-faux méat tofu and mushroom dishes. It’s cheap, too, and the menu is also in English.

VIET CHAY VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3848 3399 www.vietchay.vn 7am to 9.30pm Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received plaudits aplenty thanks to its contemporary Buddhist, feng shui-inspired setting, almost reverent ambience and interesting menu. With a regular buffet (check for details), eight specialities are also on show from salted tofu in claypot through to hundred flowers hotpot and Viet Chay spring rolls. Also sells a range of appetizers, vegetables, salads and creative mains.

A Taste of Authenticity

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

BARBECUE GARDEN VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 3823 3340 www.barbecuegarden.com 11am to 11pm A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. Specialising in all things barbecue, the menu goes from western and Vietnamese appetizers and salads through to combos, a la carte meats and seafood, vegetarian options, desserts and a kids menu. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair so expect smoke and lots of fun, too. A great place for groups and parties.

CUC GACH QUAN MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh and his French-Vietnamese wife, the cuisine here is good, too, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients together with a selection of more contemporary options.

HIGHWAY 4 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3602 2069 www.highway4.com 10am to 11.30pm The first Saigon version of the well-known Hanoi restaurant chain, Highway 4 is named after the six-thronged mountain highway that skirts the ChineseVietnamese border to the north. Serves up authentic Vietnamese cuisine and drink that reflects the ambience of the north and wider Vietnam, all set in a pleasant environment — the upstairs area has Asian-style, long-table, on the floor seating. Also does the excellent Son Tinhbranded rice wine liquors, with flavours ranging from plum to wild mountain apple.

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00 www.pendolasco.vn

sound & vision HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. Also runs separate cooking classes.

LAU XE LUA PAN ASIAN HOTPOT Ground Level, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 6111 A Japanese-style rotating conveyor belt restaurant that substitutes sushi and sashimi for hotpot, diners order their preferred broth – choosing from Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Thai style – each with their own individual pot. Customers can choose from an assortment of fresh ingredients, such as thinly sliced meat, fresh seafood and leafy vegetables, to be cooked on a high-tech electric panel, tailor-making their own dipping sauce by mixing and matching a selection of condiments.

LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt. Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

NHA HANG NGON STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn 7am to 10pm A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a converted colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented and loved Vietnamese eateries. Specialising in pan-Vietnamese street food cooked up in a hygienic environment using quality ingredients, dishes cost between VND40,000 and VND100,000 each. Not surprisingly the place gets packed out with noisy diners, so best to book.

TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3829 9244 11.30am to 10.30pm Once a hotel for French Pondicherry Indian dignitaries visiting both old Saigon and the Hindu temple opposite, this converted floor of one of the city’s best-preserved buildings is home to the elegant, refined and atmospheric Temple Club. Serving quality cuisine from the three main regions of the country, impeccable presentation and the occasional modern twist makes this a great place to entertain. For the colonial setting, the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

TIB HUE / VIETNAMESE 187ter Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3829 7242 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Formerly owned by composer Trinh Cong Son, the local equivalent of Bob Dylan, this iconic, local institution mixes dark brown Hue-style, Indochine décor with sullen lighting, white tablecloths and a

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more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. The fare is all Imperial Hue — goi thanh tra, banh uot thit nuong, bun hen and much more. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

MID TO TOP BO LAC 3 (LOST COW 3) STEAKHOUSE 71/3 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 8023 www.lostartsaigon.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm If décor could have a voice of its own, here it would be loud, clear, sophisticated and very funky, such is the contemporary but very retro feel to this more recent addition to Alley Number 71. With a menu focusing on steaks, four cuts of either imported or locally produced beef are on offer, all served up with a range of sauces. For additional vegetables and sides, order separately.

CAFÉ IF 38 Dang Dung, Q1 Tel: 3846 9853 6am to 10pm Located in the grounds of a beautifully restored Indochina-French colonial villa, Café IF is completely non-smoking and offers a concise array of MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew for breakfast, while all lunch and dinner mains come with a choice of different meats and fish, cooked in various styles such as stir fry, hot pot and curry. Has a comprehensive selection of wines, cocktails and fresh fruit juice, too.

QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1 Tel: 3602 2241 / 01286 252351 7am to 10pm Popular with foreigners and Vietnamese, Quan Bui offers an extensive menu and reasonable prices. No MSG or sugar added and food is served in traditional pots/ crockery. This restaurant is worth visiting for its high quality food, chic black tables and inviting ambience. Western food also available but make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge.

NAM PHAN PAN-VIETNAMESE 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC Tel: 3933 3636 www.khaisilkcorp.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch This purpose-built, four-storey building is coated in greys, browns and creams mixed in with the Imperial architecture of Hue, Chinese imagery and Terracotta Army-style columns. All helps to create the perfect, eloquent atmosphere for fine dining in a Vietnamese context. The cuisine mixes well-known dishes from the various regions of Vietnam, all served up with a contemporary and welcome twist. Good wine list.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 6pm to 11pm An elegant, contemporary restaurant whose unique décor has influenced the design of so many other eateries in town, five years of operation has seen Xu evolve into a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare here ranges from the likes of banh cuon thit heo through to pork wanton, bun cha, seared beef crostini, bo luc lac and Xu-style chicken rice, all served up with a modern twist.

SOUND & VISION LISTINGS

ARTS CLASSES 116 BOOKS & MAGAZINES 116 GALLERIES 116 LIVE MUSIC VENUES 117 PERFORMING ARTS 120 PRODUCTION COMPANIES 121

ARTS CLASSES BETTER DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS www.BDPworkshops.com Tel: 090 2208 813 Photographer Peter Stuckings (Lonely Planet Images, Insight Guides) runs a monthly intensive class on how to get the best out of your digital camera, as well as what to do on your computer when you bring the photos home. Workshops are run over a weekend, and involve classroom time in District 1 as well as shooting at locations around town. Cost is $195/person, with discounts for early and multiple bookings.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780 www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults. Has a permanent exhibition at Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A new creative group invites new members every second Tuesday in the evening for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire. All levels are welcome from beginners to more experienced. Contact John by phone or e-mail.

VIN’S SPACE 4 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0983 377710 www.shyevin.com Vin’s Space is a cosy, intimate, light-filled space that offers artists of all kinds a quiet space to work individually and share ideas and perspectives. Runs various weekly classes, including oil painting, drawing, figurative drawing and painting, and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

BOOKS & MAGAZINES ARTBOOK 43 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3502 1559 www.artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. Not only are the products current, but they also cover areas from art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping. Magazine titles in stock include the likes of FutureArc, GA Houses and Landscape World. The back room doubles up as an art gallery.

FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 www.fahasasg.com.vn 8am to 10pm Although there are many branches

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

COLUMNS FOR THE RECORD 117 ROAD RULES 118 IN THE FRAME 119 DECKS, DRUMS & ROCK & ROLL 120 BAND & DJ 121 of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English, French, Chinese and Vietnamese. International best sellers, children’s books and toys and educational and professional textbooks are all available. Think the Vietnamese version of Waterstone’s or Borders and you’re somewhat close to understanding what this quality bookstore chain is all about.

FRENCH BOOKSHOP NAM PHONG 94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 7859 Set in a mixed colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallicrun bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications with a selection of second– hand Folio editions. Also stocks art books, coffee table books and French comics.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC) 2A Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 9650 www.pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City as well as other outlets throughout the country, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam. Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction on non-fiction as well as over 2,000 English language titles from publishers such as HarperCollins, Random House and Penguin — the fiction available ranges from classic and modern literature through to detective novels, horror, thriller and children’s books. If you’re looking for bestseller-list titles from overseas, this is the place to start your search.

SAHABOOK 175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6290 6599 www.sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, the travel titles here range from titles on Eastern Europe to East Timor and city guides through to maps. Also stocks non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, bills/coin collections and travel fiction.

GALLERIES

sound & vision scenes, willowy girls in ao dais and water buffaloes in fields.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878 317 (Ms. Mai) www.cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner on the outer reaches of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery (CTG) offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. CTG has been in operation since 2009 although its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade and has mentored a number of now well-known and highly regarded Vietnamese artists. CTG features primarily emerging and mid-career artists and has a regular schedule of exhibitions both at its main gallery space in District 1 and its satellite exhibition space in the Thao Dien Ward of District 2.

DUC MINH GALLERY 31C Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn 9am to 6pm Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock colonial mansion constitutes the private museum and art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Helpful and friendly English-speaking staff are on hand to guide you through the artists and styles of Vietnamese art on offer. Artists exclusive to the gallery include the twins Le Duc Hai and Le Ngoc Thanh plus Hoai Huong and Vu Thang. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to something approaching astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday Founded originally in 2000 by Viet Kieu Quynh Pham and partner Robert Cianchi as an online resource on the Vietnamese art scene. Initially providing nurture and promotion for the more abstract contemporary works of Vietnamese painters considered too self indulgent for normal exhibition, the gallery now follows a more international programme and helps to advance the works of a select group of locally based contemporary artists. Runs regular exhibitions. Check their website for details.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON 324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) www.himikokoro.com 8am to 10.30pm Monday to Sunday A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes. Open for five years, this cafe-cum-gallery, the brainchild of local artist Himiko Nguyen, has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things. Recent works include The Happening, a year-long project that sees a solo installation by a different artists showcased every fortnight until November 2011.

BLUE SPACE CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3821 3695 www.bluespacearts.com 9am to 5pm With its ochre walls and internal courtyard complete with a quaint bridge, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center is an attraction unto itself. Inside the 120sqm space, local expert Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia, from sculptures and luridly coloured abstract paintings to contemporary representations of timeless Vietnamese themes: village

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 4441 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. The first floor displays changing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. Move one level up and the galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, featuring sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to various colonial rulers. The third floor exhibits older works

from the first century AD through to the early 20th century. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement, accessed through the courtyard in the centre of the building.

for the record

PARTICULAR GALLERY Kim Do Business Center, 3rd Floor 123 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 8330 www.particulargallery.com 10am to 7pm Mon to Saturday Founded in 1999 with the objective of promoting contemporary Vietnamese art and providing support to young, up-andcoming Vietnamese artists. Various types of art displayed on different media include oil on canvas, lacquer on wood and paper works. The gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website. Specific paintings by Vietnamese artists can be acquired upon request.

BORN AND RAISED JOHN MAYER

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1366 129B Le Thanh Ton Q1 Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 9pm Established in 2004, these two galleries focus on the contemporary art works of both fledgling and experienced Vietnamese artists from across the country. Works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu are displayed and an eclectic range of styles is featured, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism. Mediums mainly feature lacquer on wood and oils on canvas, although some silk paintings are available.

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 www.san–art.org 9.30am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space and reading room dedicated to the exchange and cultivation of contemporary art in Vietnam. It also aims to support the country’s artist community by creating opportunities that provide exhibition space, residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

TUDO GALLERY 53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city artists. It aims to promote the works of contemporary Vietnamese artists to domestic and foreign art appreciators.

ZEROSTATION 288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 www.zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and long-term art project managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy. With a small installation room and two beds, artists can also participate in ZeroStation’s art residency programme.

LIVE MUSIC VENUES ACOUSTIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Tel: 3930 2239 7pm until late Though only 1km from the heavily

TWO YEARS SINCE HIS LAST album, John Mayer returns with his fifth album, Born and Raised. This folk rock album with 11 tracks was supposed to be released in late 2011 but because of a throat condition called granuloma it was postponed until May this year. The album opens with an excellent acoustic finger-play intro of Queen of California, reminiscent of a country folk song. Free and lively is the general tone of this song with a dash of piano playing completing the pop rock sound. Shadow Days sings about “a good man with a good heart” who’s made wrong decisions, much like Mayer himself. The strong message of the song is downplayed by the upbeat rhythm. Age of Worry begins slowly with an acoustic melody that gives way to a Celtic rhythm that makes one feel that it’s a call to battle against worry or uncertainty. With a superb rolling guitar rhythm in the background, Speak for Me is a mellow song that tells of a man yearning to “play a song that I can sing”. Up tempo, soulful and with a church-like sound, Something Like Olivia is about a man’s desire to find someone close to his ideal woman. Another song that may very well be Mayer’s tribute to himself is Born and Raised, which tells

the story of a man who suddenly has to grow up. Mayer’s interviews with Playboy and Rolling Stone sometime in 2009 were riddled with controversies and questions.

NICE & SLOW The album slows down with the catchy first strains of Love is a Verb. Simply captivating, Mayer mixes a bit of piano after the chorus, which gives the song a certain sophistication. Though the music is slow and poignant, it screams, “Use me in a movie scene!” where love is indeed being used as a verb. With the marching sound from the drums in the accompaniment, Walt Grace’s Submarine Test tells the tale of a man’s deliberate work towards success. The steady drum beat sets the tone exquisitely and leaves you hanging with the abrupt ending. Born and Raised is more laid back compared to Mayer’s other albums. You wouldn’t think this is the same person who won the 2003 Grammy for Best Pop Vocal for Your Body is a Wonderland. However, it is a solid album that hits the spot, especially for those craving the blues. Mayer’s raspy vocals, paired with his amazing songwriting talents, are a pleasure to listen to. Better grab a copy of this new album as Mayer will be undergoing throat surgery again. — Lyra Dacio

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road

Rules Pat Joynt, of Saigon Scooter Centre, has been in Vietnam for 15 years, and working in the scooter and motorcycle industry for 30 years, restoring classic bikes, importing and producing parts. To ask Pat a question about your motorbike, email roadrules@wordhcmc.com

touristic downtown area, Acoustic is well off most foreigner’s radars. The allVietnamese house band performs every night, playing mostly western covers, and the space is perpetually jammed with young locals either bopping away in the crowd or getting up on stage. Known for being notoriously busy at the weekends, arrive by 7.30pm to stand any chance of getting a seat. Those with a love for heartfelt rock balladry and heavy rock n’ roll should check this place out on Friday nights. Has occasional guest bands from overseas.

LA HABANA

BAR BUI

41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 Tel: 3930 3154 www.metallicbar.com 9pm to 1am A popular destination for both locals and foreigners with a hankering for live rock music and a totally smokefree atmosphere, Metallic Bar is one of Saigon’s most established live music venues. Longtime house band, The Yellow, a host of Filipino singers and numerous local Vietnamese bands can be seen rocking out to ferocious covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and CCR on a nightly basis between 9pm and 12am before a DJ takes to the decks to perform a selection of contemporary dance, hip hop and r n’ b tunes through to the early hours.

39/2 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3824 1963 lodgebui@gmail.com 10am to 12am Also known as Dust Lodge, Bar Bui resembles Seventeen Saloon with its red and blue neon lighting, bricked walls, wooden roof, columns and beams. It hosts live flamenco and country music every night from 8.30pm courtesy of three Filipino house bands.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 8am to 1am This sleekly designed café morphs into a trendy live music nightspot with a selection of resident and guest DJs to be found behind the Sarato-programmed decks. Expect a multitude of electronic sounds, from deep and liquid house to lounge, disco, chill out, hip-hop and a bevy of instrumentals you’ve heard before but can’t quite put your finger on.

CACOPHONY

Hi Pat, I'm a Brit looking to go on four wheels (cars too expensive), living in Phan Rang with my Vietnamese wife, we both ride bikes as you do in Vietnam when your budget is limited. However, a relative of mine in the UK who has two road legal quads suggested a road legal quad would be my answer and he could ship one over for me. But I've been told that Quads are illegal to use on the roads in Vietnam, which I find strange as 75 percent are bikes, and these three wheeled motorised hand carts with no lights, no indicators, no mudguards and no brakes, which would be banned on any road in the rest of the world. Please can you clarify for me if they are legal to use in Vietnam and what, if any problems, I would have in importing a used Quadzilla 400cc from the UK?

118 | Word July 2012

Many thanks, Den It's basically the same answer to one of the previous questions asked. Two wheeled bikes or four wheeled quads have the same import problems. It's not the fact it's got four wheels it's the fact it's a 400cc overseas import. No, it’s not possible to permanently import a privately owned second hand bike into Vietnam from overseas and to get it legally registered. New bikes, yes, although very difficult and expensive, second hand bikes no. Hi Pat, You previously replied to a question about permanently importing used bikes to Vietnam and your answer was no. Can you import it temporarily to use? No, they do not honour "Passage De Carnet" in

Vietnam. This is a worldaccepted (almost) temporary import licence for vehicles that come in with you and leave with you when you exit. Usually this is valid for 180 days. I've used this before on an overland India trip and 90 percent of countries are covered! This usually works by contacting your local Automobile Association, for example in the UK the AA/RAC or in the US with the AAA, and you register the countries in advance where you want to go. They take a bond and they issue a multi page three section booklet. When you enter the country one section is stamped with customs and they keep on arrival, when you leave the other section is stamped and the last section is kept in the book as proof you both entered and left again. I've heard that they are talking about honouring the Carnet system but at the moment it's not in use. Fingers crossed...

57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 9am to 11pm This unique establishment sets itself apart from other live music venues in Saigon as the city’s first 3D-themed café. Each floor of this French-colonial three-storey villa has been designed as a homage to both Sagionese and Hanoian street café culture. The ground floor is where the live music happens every Wednesday to Sunday from 9pm to 11pm with pop, rock and country sets performed by the growing plethora of local bands.

CARMEN 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3829 7699 6pm to 1am The inspiration for Carmen is the popular opera named, naturally, Carmen. In place of European leads are the musical talents of a local band as well as Filipino and Vietnamese lead singers crooning to Latin beats. As if being a venue built on Flamenco music was not enough to stand out in Saigon, it further differentiates itself with a cabin-like exterior, steep stairs, a small cavernous-type entrance and an interior highlighted by rough rock walls, wood beams and candle-lit beer keg tables.

JARDIN D’AMOUR 8Bis Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 6679 2406 9am to 11pm A quirky, French-style café with a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Each evening from 8.30pm the self-titled ‘Garden of Love’ houses live music with different themes such as Tien Chien Night (pre-war Vietnamese music), International Covers Night and Lovers Night. The stage is a quaint miniature theatre-style set up with white picket fencing and a painted backdrop of a garden positioned next to a tiny raised balcony where a pianist serenades customers every Monday night. Romantic ballads can be heard every Tuesday and rock every Friday.

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com Saigon cover band stalwarts Carmen & Brothers play an eclectic selection of well known hits by the likes of Michael Jackson, Leona Lewis and Bon Jovi every night of the week except Mondays. The music usually starts at 9pm but arrive early to ensure prime seating in the lounge.

23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon 7pm till late Tuesday to Sunday One of Saigon’s chicest venues with some of the most awe-inspiring views of the city, this hotel bar offers nightly live music (except on Mondays) from 9pm courtesy of the multinational sextet Motion. Expect a bit of everything from r&b, dance and jazz to hip-hop, rap and rock.

METALLIC BAR

PACHARAN

NAPOLY BAR 7 Pham Ngoc Thanh, Q3, Tel: 3829 0583 www.napolybar.com 7pm until 12am Named after the famed southern Italian city, the ground floor seating of this popular and somewhat upscale café looks and feels like it came straight out of Italy itself. The upstairs bar in the back is the place to catch local Vietnamese band Quoc Anh play classic 1980s hits every night from 9pm to midnight.

{in the frame}

97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6024 9am to midnight Wednesdays and Fridays are the nights to catch local favourites such as cover band circuit legend Juram, and latin pop group Warapo. Juram is known for his gravelvoiced versions of anthems by Nirvana, Pink Floyd and Metallica, while Warapo serve up a very physical offering live and exotic Cuban salsa music.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3 Formerly Tadao Coffee Bar, the promoters behind RockFanClub, the long-running underground Vietnamese hard rock and metal night, have moved in, finally giving the city’s moshers a home of their own. Local hard rock and metal bands can be found playing every night of the week from around 9pm at this tiny yet comfortable and cool venue.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR 9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 11am to 2am Cuban bands are a mainstay at this outdoor bar with salsa band Warapo providing a musical melting pot of South

AN INKLING FOR INKING ERWIN BRYAN UTCHANAH was born in the multi-ethnic, tropical island of Mauritius. Growing up in a family with eight children and no TV until the age of 18 brought out Erwin’s creative and inventive side. With his family, he’d go out on picnics enjoying natural sceneries, hiking and scouting. This exposure helped him explore his different subjects for sketching, drawing and painting, which brought on early commissioned works from family and friends. He continued to hone his skills in the arts by completing tertiary education at the Mauritius Institute of Education (University of Mauritius), majoring in Visual Arts and Education. When asked what continues to inspire him, Erwin reveals, “Life and my students! They need to be guided, motivated and inspired and so I have to keep observing, exploring, reading and reflecting.” Currently, he’s the IB Diploma Programme Coordinator and Head of the Arts Department at the ACG International School Vietnam, which he joined a couple of years ago. His influences include the Romantics and Humanists like Andre Malraux, Gandhi, Martin Luther King Jr, William Wordsworth and William Blake. And much like them, he has a natural interest for people, their living conditions, culture and values. For him, “Art is an ongoing mental process. An important phase of the creative process is reflection. Very often at the moment that the brush starts caressing the canvas, the artist has already conceived the whole piece mentally.”

Erwin admires the great art masters who, according to him, “influenced their generation and believed in their visions,” like Da Vinci, the Dutch painters, Vermeer, and the father of cubism, Paul Cezanne. In Vietnam, the city itself is a stimulus that is waiting to be captured on canvas. He eagerly shares this about the city: “The old and the new, orderly chaos, an unsaid, undefined choreography around daily life, daily survival and existence are strong materials to work with.” This very passionate artist says his last visit to the National Museum of Fine Arts in Hanoi was akin to travelling back in time. He was captivated by how the techniques and medium clearly captured the history of the Vietnamese people through the arts. He explains, “That visit was a turning point in my understanding and respect for Vietnam and its people; mainly the women of Vietnam. I believe the country owes a lot to its women.” As an artist, he has also worked with dyes on fabric, the Batik technique, which depicts sceneries and faces of his home country. At the moment, Erwin is enjoying working with Indian ink or China ink. In Istanbul, he had three exhibitions showcasing a series of abstract works with Indian ink as a medium. He has also experimented pairing Indian ink with watercolour. Whether inking or creating works of art for school events or for his own pleasure, Erwin is leaving indelible marks on the arts scene. — Lyra Dacio

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decks, drums & rock n' roll

sound & vision American rhythms every Tuesday as part of the hotel’s Havana Ladies Night, while the six-piece Luna Negra like to mix it up with salsa, bachata and merengue on Wednesdays through to Mondays. Both bands start at 9pm.

SAX N’ ART JAZZ CLUB

28 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 8472 www.saxnart.com 5pm to 12am Unique renditions of classic jazz compositions by the likes of Miles Davies, John Coltrane and Charlie Parker can be heard from 9pm until midnight daily at this non-smoking establishment. Saxophonist Tran Manh Tuan and the Sax N’ Art house band regularly performs a unique blend of contemporary jazz and blues mixed with central highlands Vietnamese influences in this cosy, brickwalled bohemian boîte.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

John Thornton caught up with the world’s best DJ, DJ Vajra, to talk records, the perpetually evolving state of deejaying and to ﬁnd out where that name came from. Photo by Nick Ross YOU WON THE DMC WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS IN 2011, IT DOESN’T GET MUCH BIGGER THAN THAT FOR A DJ. WHAT’S LEFT TO ACHIEVE? I’ve been deejaying for Yelawolf for the past six months and I just signed a 12-month contract with him. We have 60 shows booked over 66 days this fall, and I’m going to be opening up as a solo act too, so the goal is to make new fans in different markets and areas, and to build my name as a DJ so I can continue to do bigger and better things. From a production standpoint, I’m going to release an album of instrumentals that’s more in the vibe of Pretty Lights and DJ Shadow. SERATO OR VINYL? I started out in 1996 so I’ll always have a special place in my heart for vinyl, but now Serato is just so much easier to use and I think it’s superior in nearly every way. I don’t have any desire to ever DJ on vinyl again, honestly. I can do everything I want to do with Serato and so much more. WHAT’S THE BIGGEST MISCONCEPTION ABOUT DJS? That it’s easy. A lot of people think DJs just show up and play music, they don’t see the hours of downloading, sifting through tracks, practising, organising files and

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103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3914 0007 www.seventeensaloon.co.vn 7pm until late A favourite among both Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this Wild West-themed bar doubles up as a great live music venue with no less than three highly talented Filipino cover bands rocking out nightly. B & U, Wild West and Most Wanted impressively belt out like-for-like hits by rock staples such as Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses’ while pumping Vietnamese techno blasts out of the speakers in between sets.

TELL US SOMETHING ABOUT YOURSELF THAT PEOPLE WOULDN’T EXPECT FROM A DMC WORLD CHAMPION… I listen to a lot classical music. 90 percent of my iPod is full of it, but I don’t ever check who the composer is, apart from Phillip Glass usually. I don’t incorporate classical music into what I do because it doesn’t really have a place, but if you ever see me walking around with a pair of headphones on you can guess that 99 percent of the time I’ll be listening to classical music. WHAT’S UP WITH YOUR NAME? It’s a Sanskrit word that means lightening. I don’t really like it but I always wanted to be the fastest scratcher in the world so it’s appropriate in that respect.

+ 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com 9am to 12am Those in search for a sound of the familiar will find solace at one of Saigon’s longest running bars. A different cover band gets up every night of the week (except Mondays) at this pub-like Celtic establishment. Celtic Band knock out jovial Irish ditties on Tuesdays; the classic rock power of Risky Red and Mr. Bo can be heard on Wednesdays and Fridays; Wonderluster play pop hits on Thursdays, and rollicking Japanese blues group, 12 Bar Blues take over on the weekends.

VASCO’S

74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12am (weekdays). Open late on weekends. With two rooms set up to cater to bands and DJs (Yellow Room & Blue Room), Vasco’s is one of Saigon’s most prominent live music venues. Catering mainly to the musical tastes of muso expats, the likes of DJ Premier, Free The Robots, Handsome Furs and Daedelus have headlined this former opium den. Local DJs such as Jordan Howard and DJ Jase regularly put on nights with hip-hop, dubstep, drum n’ bass, reggae and dance firmly on rotation. Local expat latin-punk band Bad Neighbour also plays on most Friday nights.

YOKO

preparing new material that goes on. HOW MANY RECORDS DO YOU OWN? I’ve got about 5,000 physical records at home. With digital, I had upwards of 80,000 tracks at one point and it was just a little too much so I’ve managed to narrow it down to about 60,000. I’ve been deleting more stuff than downloading, which is hard because I’m a hoarder.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH HOUSE

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox 1 and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3862 2425 www.cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 3775 2521 www.lottecinemavn.com

22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 0577 8am until late As the name suggests, John Lennon's wife inspired the name of this excellent bar. Refurbished and expanded in 2011, Yoko is undoubtedly one of the coolest and most unique venues in Saigon, hosting live music nightly from some of the city's best local musicians and bands, including 6789, Microwave and Coconuts. Expect classic rock, jazz, funk, country, metal, grunge, blues and everything else in-between. An unmissable destination for grassroots and underground music lovers.

PERFORMING ARTS HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 7419, www.hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet perform programmes of classical dance

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: 3849 4567 www.galaxycine.vn

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI

IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 5451 www.idecaf.gov.vn

NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

MEGASTAR CINEMA

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 0088 www.megastar.vn

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

and music throughout the year. Shows feature both national and international stars, and take place in one of the most elegant buildings in the city. There are two annual seasons: Spring through summer (January to June) and autumn through winter (July to December), featuring performances every 9th and 19th monthly. Tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC 112 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre is the perfect place for classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to other performance groups in the city. Also provides music education in undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels for the southern region of Vietnam. There are two concert rooms (500 seats and 100 seats) with two performances weekly. To obtain a programme of events, visit the Opera House.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn www.hcmcchoir.com This well–established 40–strong choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3. The Choir’s repertoire includes classic works by Bach, Beethoven, Handel, and Verdi as well as songs from musicals, traditional songs from Britain, Christmas carols in many languages, gospel songs, and national and European Anthems.

SAIGON PLAYERS www.saigonplayers.com saigonplayers@gmail.com A non-profit community theatre group whose mission is to uphold the arts while giving to charity. Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights at 7.30pm every first Wednesday of the month at La Habana and script nights at 7.30pm every third Wednesday of the month at venues alternating between Boomarang Bistro Saigon in Q7 and Geisha's Tea House in Q1.

PRODUCTION COMPANIES CREA TV 339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 7434 www.crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Facilities are located at Thanh Da Island and include two studios (400m2 and 150m2) as well as in-house post-production. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisations and permits, art department, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS 91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10 Tel: 0908 477079 www.factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films is a diverse, creative, bespoke production company built on broad film and media experience. Their team has developed and delivered content worldwide and specialises in TVCs, documentary, web and TV content with vast experience in all stages of production from development through to post production and delivery.

BAND & DJ LISTINGS BAD NEIGHBOUR claualehm@hotmail.com Bad Neighbour plays a combination of Latin and rock with some reggae and rap thrown into the mix. A multinational outfit with nine members, Bad Neighbour can be seen performing on Fridays at Hard Rock Café. BOB WITTENBACH (BONGO BOB) Tel: 0903 193241 Ex-professional rock, blues, jazz and pop drummer from London who has played with various artists including John Otway, The Breaks and The Scaffold. Has played many gigs in Saigon with Mike Belmes, Curtis King and Juram, among others. Looking to hook up with like-minded blues/rock musicians interested in bringing an Asian feel to Western themes. CARMEN & BROTHERS LIVE Acoustic Band carmenandbrothers@yahoo.com facebook.com/lahabanasaigon La Habana’s famous Filipino house band captivates audiences most nights of the week with Carmen’s extraordinary vocal range and an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary pop, r&b, retro, latin, rock and ballads CURTIS KING BAND Tel: 0908 339405 www.curtiskinglive.com A funky, bluesy, travelling rock ‘n’ roll band with an east-meets-west sound. Founded in 1996, the band has performed all over the world and has been featured on MTV, the BBC, China Central Television, XoneFM Radio and HTV. Having recorded four albums, the band can be caught playing throughout Vietnam and the region. Available for weddings, corporate, embassy, consulate or chamber of commerce events. DJ AJAM http://djajam.podomatic.com Vasco’s resident DJ Ajam (UK) available for private parties, clubs, bars and versatile in any style of music. With 17 years of DJing experience, Ajam has played at venues worldwide including the worlds number one club brand Pacha. Now teaching private DJ classes to all ages. DJ equipment and sound system for rent. DJ JORDAN HOWARD Tel: 01223 447721 whitfield@jordanhoward.net American DJ specialising in eclectic mixes of 1980s, pop, rock, and hip-hop to audiences of all ages and nationalities. A Vasco's veteran of three years, Jordan has played many balls and corporate events around Vietnam. DJ SEIP Tel: 0934014091 www.djseip.com German DJ and Turntablist, DJ Seip, plays the hottest hip-hop, rn’b, dance and house tracks and can be seen playing at most of the prominent Saigon venues. DMA: DIGITAL MUSIC AGENCY 380/13B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3843 6459 (ask for Ms. Nhi) www.dma.vn DMA is the first international DJ training centre in Vietnam. Run by professional local and overseas DJs, DMA offers training

programmes and job opportunities for those wanting to become professional DJs or looking to learn for pleasure. DMA uses the latest professional DJ equipment and software, and doubles up as an events company and talent agency. EVERYONE’S A DJ everyonesadjvietnam@gmail.com www.everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com One of the top and longest running indie electro, 80s new wave, 50/60s dance parties in Saigon. Its concept is simple: to create a party with a DIY aesthetic heavily rooted in art, film, and design. Fronted by superkid, the parties occur monthly with rotating DJs and VJs. GILLES SNOWCAT (FROM AWAKEN) www.awaken.be, awamail@hellokitty.com Awaken’s Gilles Snowcat is in Saigon looking to join forces with musicians who don’t want to play it safe in order to make his magnetic soul music caress the eared need apply. JURAM GAVERO TRIO juramgavero@hotmail.com Juram has been playing around the city for the last 12 years, and is now one of the most popular acts in Ho Chi Minh City. His blend of eclectic music styles gathered from his experiences around the world stand him in good stead to make you enjoy your evening any night of the week. MARK “MR. JOLLY” JOLLY Tel: 0918 119987 With over 20 years DJing experience and close to a decade playing in Vietnam, Mr Jolly can cover pretty much any musical situation from private parties to the largest club and corporate events. Can play a wide range of musical styles despite having very little hair. RISKY RED rickreid@vnn.vn Either a three-piece acoustic light rock combo or a six piece full-on rock ‘n’ roll, blues and boogie, party Band. Regular around Saigon. SNAKEBITE — MUSIC WITH VENOM! Tel: 0909 169 033 (Andy) andy@andysgraphics.com Looking for music with soul? Then call Snakebite the next time you’re planning a wedding, event or private party. Snakebite play music that is suitable for all ages and can even help with invitations. THE WANDERLUSTER Tel: 0122 3022 262 davis@wanderlustersvn.com The Wanderlusters are an acoustic, vocally inspired band, outfitted with traditional blurgrass instruments, that plays American roots music. Influenced by country, bluegrass, rock, folk, gospel, and blues, The Wanderlusters play your favourite hillbilly soul songs. WARAPO BAND Tel: 0933 067752 warapo.production@gmail.com This high-energy seven piece Cuban band brings the sensuality and the passion from the Carribbean. Their music is a unique blend of styles ranging from salsa, merengue, cha cha, reggaeton and pop that’s ideal for events and private parties.

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LEISURE & WELLNESS

LISTINGS

LEISURE AMUSEMENT 122 BASKETBALL 122 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 122 COOKING CLASSES 122 CRICKET 122 DANCING 122 FITNESS 122 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 124 GOLF 124 LEISURE - GENERAL 124 SPORTS CLASSES 124 TENNIS 124

LEISURE

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

VIETNAMESE CLASSES 124 YOGA & MEDITATION 125 WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 126 COSMETIC SURGERY 126 DENTAL 126 HAIRDRESSERS 127 MEDICAL 128 PHARMACIES 128 SALONS 128 SPAS 129

SAIGON EXPATS

AMUSEMENT DAI NAM THEME PARK Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 384 5845 6:30am to 5:30pm A mammoth of a place, the superkitsch Dai Nam is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. Just 50km from Ho Chi Minh City past Thu Dau Mot on Highway 13, the amusement park rides include two huge roller coasters, an excellent go kart track, dodgems, kiddy’s bouncy castles and much more. Then there's the well set-up water park, a non-cringe worthy zoo modeled on its counterpart in Singapore, a 5000 sqm temple and the cultural area. Well worth the VND50,000 ticket price.

LASER TAG 5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun. Hand over VND40,000 and you’re in for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun. The gaming area is a little on the small side but the equipment all functions well, and you’re provided with a fun and alternative leisure activity. A collection of arcade games can be found in foyer.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTQANICAL GARDENS 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3829 3728 www.saigonzoo.net 7am to 5pm At less than VND10,000 for entry, Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical gardens is a great option for a day out in the city. Dating back to 1875, Saigon has one of the oldest zoos in the world, which makes it a famous site not only for the Vietnamese. You can get lost amongst the many rare orchids, ornamental plants in the garden or marvel at over one hundred species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Some of the enclosures don’t meet western standards so the wary should steer clear.

BASKETBALL PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB 8 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

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kurtislaw@best.com.vn A basketball night at Saigon South International School every Thursday, open to anyone who wants to play or watch. Call Kurtis Law on 01265 638 486 to secure an invitation.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM www.ilvietnam.com This long–established social organisation fosters social contacts for women in the city and currently has a membership of 500 women from 42 nations. The group offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Meetings are held at 10am every Thursday at the Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur, Q3. Membership for the first year costs VND700,000; annual renewal is VND500,000.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB 628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3898 9000 www.parklandvn.com 6am to 10pm Opened in 2003 the Parkland Country Club offers a green retreat from the frenetic city with its 2-hectare space in An Phu. The club is able to organise a wide range of activities such as wine tasting and sports tournaments due to its extensive facilities, which include three different dining options, supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, 3 tennis courts, squash courts, a lap and fun pool, spa and premier gyms. Monthly memberships are VND3.5 million.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonatownclub.com 6am to 10pm Up and running since May 1998, Sedona Town Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide private sanctuary from the busy streets. Amongst the attractions are the club’s recreational facilities, which include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi. Members can benefit from the secretarial support service on offer as well as the alfresco dining option offered poolside at the ‘Coco Cabana’. The lush garden adjacent to this outside eatery provides a great option for kicking back with a cocktail. A 3-month membership will set you back VND4 million.

leisure & wellness COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1 Tel: 3820 9734 www.overlandclub.jp A Japanese home cooking class that meets every Sunday afternoon from 1.305pm. Run by a Japanese pottery artist, Overland Club also organises pottery classes, Vietnamese-Japanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating papers and multinational cuisine days. The club is open to all nationalities and ages.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com Learn how to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local fine dining specialists Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients and the preparation of three tasty local dishes. Some tricks of the trade and the chance to sample the fruits of your labour afterwards also feature. A seasonal desert wraps things up nicely. Courses run from Tuesday to Sunday with two sessions per day from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. The class is VND800,000 for adults and VND500,000 for children.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 351 22 764 www.vietnamcookery.com Established in 1999, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy. Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa 15 minutes from the city centre, the course caters to all skill levels. An introduction to a traditional Vietnamese kitchen and cooking utensils is an added bonus as well as a trip to a central food market. For VND800,000 per person you can attend their morning course from 9.30am to 1pm or the afternoon course from 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Meals included.

CRICKET SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations – Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka – as well as a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club (UCC). New recruits are welcome. The teams play on weekends at RMIT and have regular practice sessions. The season starts every October.

VCA (VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

COUNTRY TEAMS: ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 Samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA

CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 Suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Mobile: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

DANCING DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung Tel: 3519 4490/4340 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio available online.

LATIN STREET DANCE Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday at Geisha's Coffee and Tea House (2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1). It's individual dancing (no partnering) and you just need to buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate. Contact fred@ salsaaigon.com.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 www.saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to their studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”. Scheduling information is available online.

SAIGON SWING CATS www.saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday at Caffe Molinari (Petrohouse Tower, 5 Le Duan, Q1).

Also offers “Cyril & You Urban Fitness”, teaching children’s boxing, and fitness and cardio boxing for girls at Top Floor, 49 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, An Phu.

DIAMOND HEALTH CLUB 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found at this leading department store. Off–peak membership from VND1.7 million per month.

JOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise programmes, weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports. Services include fitness and nutrition assessment.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY 14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 A 750m2 space that offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA and kid’s basic martial art classes as well as private fitness, bodybuilding and cardio conditioning. Come to get into shape, take out stress or learn a new sport with foreign instructors. Open to everyone from kids to adults and beginners to professionals.

LA COCHINCHINE Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 1812 www.lacochinchine.net This new colonial–themed gym is a large, open–plan space, situated on the top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, loads of cardio and resistance machines, sauna and

steam rooms. Also offers classes. Peak membership starts at VND2.2 million per month.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE 64A Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Taebo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. Membership to the small professional fitness studio costs VND1.8 million per month, or just VND1.3 million per month for a one–year membership. Drop–in sessions cost VND300,000. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room to help you unwind after a work out.

NTFQ2 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq@nutrifort.com Has a strong focus on fitness classes and personal training. Besides an excellent weights and cardio area, the facility runs group classes including power yoga, Pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. The centre also contains a spa and a restaurant serving up calorie– calibrated meals to help members stay in line with individual fitness programmes.

PAUL SIMOS www.paulsimos.com paul@paulsimoshealthcoach.com Tel: 01286 305 982 Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul has studied all major dietary theories and uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them. Contact Paul for a free health history consultation.

FITNESS AIS SPORTS CENTRE Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) www.aissportscentre.com With a 25m swimming pool, Astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay in shape. Memberships start at VND10 million per year and are payable in advance or semi–annual installments. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30–32 Le Lai, Q1 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring state–of–the– art equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes such as Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance, Body Combat and more.

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool. Monthly membership costs VND3.2 million.

CYRIL AND YOU-BODY AND MIND CO LTD Tel: 0947 771326 www.cyril-and-you.com Nutritional advice and personalised programmes for body toning. Fitness at the BoatHouse in An Phu at 8.30am on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

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leisure & wellness PATRICK NGUYEN Tel: 093 815 6865 www.corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial arts trainer with 14 years of fitness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California. Certified by the National Sports Academy Of Medicine and a certified Sivananda yoga instructor trained by Green Path Yoga.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. A good place to take time out at the pool–side bar. Costs VND400,000 a day or VND2.2 million a month.

SAIGON FITNESS CO. New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 www.saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool. Standard monthly membership starts from VND4.5 million while a day pass goes for VND450,000. Special yearly memberships and family offers available.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR Tel: 01225 811 080 www.sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano is qualified in mat work and Pilates equipment, and offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs and schedule.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 Membership costs VND12 million for six months and VND21 million for a year at this small but well–equipped gym. Equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM

leisure & wellness rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Call for further information.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Equipped with technologically advanced equipment, large cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, this gym has spacious changing facilities with sauna and steam rooms, three group class studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, Step Aerobics and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL www.vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in both Saigon (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT University, Q7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age, preferred sport or ability, all are warmly invited to become an active part of an inclusive Club. Contact Nick on 0937 683 230.

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON www.gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years. Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

SAIGON RAIDERS jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams in the nearby provinces. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent for weekly training sessions and matches. Contact Jon Hoff.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness – Vietnam’s second largest gym. Memberships gives free access to regular fitness classes and involves a one-time free entry, plus monthly subscription.

saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social touch rugby is played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT University from 4pm. The Saigon Geckos welcome both men and women of all nationalities to join and enjoy a few beers afterwards. Does regular tours of the region for tournaments, as well as inviting visiting teams for ladies’ touch rugby, contact rugby and men’s over–35 contact rugby. Beginners welcome.

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

SAIGON SAINTS

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking The Crescent complex’s lagoon, this multi-purpose and organically designed fitness and wellness centre offers an array of modern facilities. A state-of-the-art gym fitted out with the latest Technogym equipment allows users to track their progress with personalised keys, while other features include group fitness classes, yoga sessions, a squash court, swimming pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

THE LANDMARK CLUB The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext. 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a

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www.saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

GOLF LADIES’ FIRST GOLF

behind FV hospital. Fees discounted by 40% on Wednesdays. On the driving range, a basket of 50 balls costs VND60,000. Equipment hire is also available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT 77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756 660 www.songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city. Individual memberships cost VND38 million or VND63 million per year.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB Long Thanh My Village, Q9 Tel: 6280 0101 www.vietnamgolfcc.com Also known as the Thu Duc Golf Course, this facility just off Highway 1 has two courses, one following a more Asian style, and one with distinctly modern touches. Both 18–hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

LEISURE – GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS www.saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long–established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Also offers walking trails too. Bus leaves from the Caravelle Hotel at 2pm every Sunday.

PUSH CLIMBING 67/1 Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung Tel: 01264 722 134 www.pushclimbing.com Push Climbing is Ho Chi Minh City’s and Vietnam’s first dedicated bouldering climbing gym and pro shop. Located in District 7, the gym is open seven days a week and there are facilities for storing bicycles and gear. Drinks and snacks are also available, as well as a comfy area for people to relax after tackling the various routes.

residents for use of the squash court. For new players or those without a partner, there is a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets can be rented and balls are provided inclusive. Book in advance. Day rate is VND250,000 for use of all facilities.

reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern & southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities. Private lessons are VND250,000 per hour, group classes for 3 or more people are VND160,000 per person.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING

Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to noon. Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James (Tornados HC) on 0938 889 899 or Rina at rinabakher@ yahoo.com.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 3pm to 5pm. For information how to get involved call David Jensen on 0909 458 890 or Tino Tran on 0903 042 014.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: 6210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 2. Prices start at VND170,000 for a group pass of four, with a two-hour safety course costing VND500,000.

SPORTS CLASSES CAPOEIRA 25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail.com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance. Held near the zoo, lessons begin at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and at the same time on Fridays at DanCenter. Admission is VND70,000 for one session or VND250,000 for four sessions.

RAINBOW DIVERS

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving courses & trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu. Operates PADI–National Geographic Dive Centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Tel: 7303 1100 www.saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 members, including Japanese, American, Canadian and Taiwanese players. Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE www.thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts club, which runs a competitive league for 14 pub–based teams. Check out the website for details on how to get involved and to see the recent 180 scores.

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 3836 4344 vnccentre@gmail.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training and Translation provides Vietnamese language training by experienced and qualified teachers and certifies translation from experts for all kinds of materials and documents, from a page to a book.

YOGA & MEDITATION DR. SHIVA shivaprakashyoga@yahoo.com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City for the last two years in a variety of locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. His yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga. Available to conduct personal, group sessions, health seminars and workshops.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

MY YOGA EXERCISE Tel: 0128 630 5982 www.myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to

build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation. Also offers tropical Hatha yoga. Private sessions and group classes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 35149009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon’s luxury state-of-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week at varied times in a specifically designed soft floored studio. A host of certified, experienced international and local practitioners whose styles include Ashtanga, Power Yoga, Hatha and also Pilates classes.

SAIGON YOGA Tel: 090 835 2265 www.saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a registered "Experienced Instructor" through Yoga Alliance. Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats & Trainings.

SHRI YOGA STUDIO 54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 5347 / 0913 764 776 www.shriyogavietnam.com Newly opened yoga studio focusing on Ashtanga Yoga and suitable for all levels; basic, intermediate and advanced. Prenatal and postnatal classes also available. Classes are held in both English and Vietnamese with internationally certified instructors in cooperation with Tirisulayoga Singapore. Scheduled 200-hour teacher training courses (RYT200) are available throughout the year.

TENNIS KY HOA II 796 Su Van Hanh, Q10, Tel: 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH INTERNATIONAL TENNIS COURT 291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club. You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour, and all gear (including a ball boy) is available for rent.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES

www.ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE www.saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball. Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency. VND220,000 per hour.

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF

SQUASH

Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7 Tel: 5411 2001 Visitors’ green fees are VND400,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDEIS – SAIGON

PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good

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leisure & wellness

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com.vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretary-general of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and nonVietnamese speakers.

VIVACOLOUR 33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2 Lotus Road 28, Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailored-made relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available. Contact Pascaline for more information.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE Tel: 01266 626467 www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735 833 (Thuy) www.yogaliving.com.vn Conducting over 150 commercial and private classes a month, daily offers are Ashtanga based Hath yoga, Vinyasa yoga and Sivananda and classical yoga classes. A larger second studio equipped with six classrooms and 14 shower rooms in the centre of the city provides a great space for a yoga workshop, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

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335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3929 1707 www.ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes of different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow. VND400,000 for a one-week trial.

WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM 8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and an American-educated and licensed doctor of physical therapy speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, sports injury rehabilitation, and manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Tel: 0903 098 124 www.osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

SARAH MARTIN Tel: 0937 442 516 www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu. Home visits available.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator. Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture - alternative fields of health care that focus on correcting energy misbalance by combining the energy of colour and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for, but not limited to, muscular and joint pain, stress, sleep issues, jetlag, and tailormade programmes for body revitalization, mood boosting, and to stop smoking. Other areas focus on treating asthma, ear infections, and general light children’s medical issues, as well as cosmetic problems such as skin wrinkling and sun spot removal. Contact Pascaline for more information.

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7 Tel: 0906 684 969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, and special treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular etc), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders. Dr Kim has studied TCM in Korea and China and speaks Korean, Chinese and some English. A Vietnamese translator is also available.

45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

VIVACOLOUR

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE

Tel: 0918 591 933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information or to book a session call or email Jodie on jodieastwood@gmail.com.

THETA HEALING

American Chiropractic Clinic, 8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 chantel@vietnamchiropractic.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam practicing out of American Chiropractic Clinic. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and postoperative rehabilitation. Rehabilitation may include combination of hands on manual therapy, specific exercise prescription and other modalities. Care 1, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Major medical centre that also offers acupuncture and traditional medicine services. The international doctors are highly qualified in their respective disciplines and speak English, Italian and French.

90 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1. Tel: 3829 8453 96 Ha Huy Tap, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5415 6868 www.sakuradental.com.vn An international-standard private dental healthcare group established in the 1990s and led by a Vietnamese senior dentist graduated from Tokyo Medical & Dental University (Japan). Comprised of a team of local and foreign dental specialists, providing total dental care services from dental check-ups to specialist works like whitening, braces, implants, and sleep apnea mouth guards.

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems such as sagging, dull skin, unwanted tattoos and acne by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic has the latest therapies including laser hair removal, stem cell therapy, skin rejuvenation by IPL, Botox and filler hydrolifting, anti-aging and hair loss regrowth treatments.

DR CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

SAKURA DENTAL CLINIC

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, carried out with the best equipment by expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

COSMETIC SURGERY CAO THANG AESTHETIC CENTRE 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn A range of eye and aesthetic procedures are available at this modern hospital. With state-of-the-art devices, services include laser vision correction, cataract surgery, hi-myopia treatment, Botox anti-wrinkle treatment, dermal filler (Restylane) treatment, eyelid reshaping, eyelid fat removal and brow lifts.

DR. TU’S COSMETIC & LASER SURGERY CLINIC 290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3836 7685 www.bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound– based fat elimination and body

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3392 1080 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses state-of-the-art equipment, including fractional CO2 laser, Q-Switch Nd:Yag laser, Fraxel laser, and is the only skin clinic in Vietnam offering Digital Dermoscopy for skin cancer evaluation. Other treatments include eczema, acne, psoriasis, laser treatments (wrinkles, melasma, freckles, scars, keloids); Botox, Restylane and Dysport.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6777 www.wescoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

HAIRDRESSERS SMILE DENTAL 173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open Mon-Sat from 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm, closed on Sundays and public holidays. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal. Shampoo, cut & blow–dry for VND530,000. Mini facials from VND250,000.

ART HAIR 37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp– looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

DENTAL ACCADENT Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 822 8800, www.accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

EUROPEAN DENTAL CLINIC 17-17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Dentists from Japan and France providing total dental care. Open Mondays from 8.00am to 8.00pm and Saturdays from 8.00am to 5.00pm. Emergency hotline: 0909 551 916 / 0916 352 940.

e s.

saigongompa@gmail.com www.saigon-gompa.org Meditation group using specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

YMC – YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY – DAVID TRUONG TAN

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Long–established, state–of–the–art clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3435 www.fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

Tim

VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP

269/3 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 2110 www.yogasanti.com Operating to create an oasis of peace in Saigon, Yoga Santi strives to provide thoughtful and challenging classes for students of all levels while offering a variety of styles ranging from athletic to gentler classes. All teachers have received international training and are well versed in instructing Hatha yoga, Vinyasa yoga, Yin yoga, Hatha flow and Sivananda yoga.

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 3920 5813 www.soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in high-quality yoga training and yoga retail products, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and other classes with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally produced yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Also offers 30 per cent off yoga class passes and memberships on first day of every month.

YOGA SANTI

273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy – the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system. English–speaking Dr. Le Hung can address all your needs in these areas.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE

E Vietnam Award fo m 11 na r “Ex t 0 e i 2 cellen ce in Dentistry” by V

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 www.starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym. Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non– member prices.

assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic minutes from downtown. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available by a foreign orthodontist.

201 0,

STAR FITNESS GYM

contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions such as hair transplants, eyebrow lifts, nose, eye and ear shaping. The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

02 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Dist. 3, HCM City (Ho Con Rua - Turtle Lake) Tel: 38 22 62 22 / 38 23 92 94 starlightdental@gmail.com www.starlightdental.net

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leisure & wellness COLOR HAUS 23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 www.colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean–based salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you. A wash and cut starts at VND80,000 from a junior stylist. To cover grey hair, price starts at VND250,000 while a full colour and highlights range from VND350,000 to VND550,000. They also have a new nail care service.

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4625 Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated and rebranded her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a designer villa in Thao Dien, Q2. Open daily from 9am to 8pm, a full new range of services is now on offer, including a dedicated salon for kids: Concept Kids. Only top products such as Alfaparf and Natural Rendez-Vous are used.

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP 23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 0915 www.kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this Singapore–based outlet provides hair treatments, from a simple wash and blow dry from a student (VND5,000) to multi–tonal highlights from a junior

leisure & wellness stylist (VND310,000). All services are monitored by highly qualified instructors. Appointments recommended. Open 9am to 9pm.

THE SALON 21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

VENUS 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 Tel: 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look for a night out on the town.

YKC HAIR STUDIO 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist Ky The Guy (Cut and Colour Specialist), YKC Hair Studio atteacts a loyal expat clientele thanks to the well trained staff and friendly English-speaking environment. Top industry products such as Tigi and Goldwell are used. A cut and blow-dry starts at VND550,000.

MEDICAL AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS 273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient

healthcare, corporate / visa health– checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

CAO THANG EYE HOSPITAL 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn Cao Thang is a comprehensive eye hospital overseeing 6000 surgeries per year (laser vision correction, cataract surgery and eyelid reshaping). English speaking staff, a member of the World Association of Eye Hospitals (WAEH), and quality assurance by the Joint Commission International (JCI).

CARE 1 Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI) – FOUNDATION ALAIN CARPENTIER 1 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine. A nonprofit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heat Institute to fund children’s operations.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1 Tel: 3823 8888 Well–established and well–regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with doctors (both overseas and Vietnamese) on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable, with a health check–up costing from VND400,000 to VND800,000.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider whose highly–qualified foreign and Vietnamese doctors can handle anything from emergencies to lab tests and X– rays, in–patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5411 3333 Emergency: 5411 3500 www.fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, with maternity care a specialty. Hotline (24– hour) 5411 3500.

FV SAIGON CLINIC 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre conveniently located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports

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medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI)

neck massage costing VND150,000. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE

1 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine. A non–profit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heart Institute to fund children’s operations.

64A Truong Dinh, Q3; 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1218 www.lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages (from VND550,000), facials (from VND500,000), sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing (around VND210,000). Also offers gentleman’s care.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In the heart of downtown and specialising in all forms of skincare, this is a well– designed and outfitted day spa offering body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments. Nice decor completes the atmosphere.

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. The International SOS medical team of expatriate and national doctors and nurses provide general practice consultations for the whole family. Specialist care is available in many fields, including general practice, women’s health, pediatrics, vaccinations, physiotherapy/osteopathy, dental and more. In-house pharmacy has a wide selection of prescription and over the counter medication.

STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordskin.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open & doctors on call 24/7.

PHARMACIES INTERNATIONAL SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The in-house pharmacy at this wellrespected clinic provides an excellent range of all medications, both over the counter and prescription-only. Pharmacy managed and staffed by English speaking team.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

CAT MOC SPA 61-63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6295 8926 www.catmocspa.com Established in 2010 and aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanesestyle haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. Open daily from 9am to 10pm including national holidays.

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 8368 www.glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes (VND400,000) to two-hour hot stone therapy (VND1.2 million), includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care as well as a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: 3827 7188 www.indochine-spa.com Nestled in the heart of the city, Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with a range of aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by fully qualified therapists using 100% natural

French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

MEKONG BLISS SPA 112, Pasteur Street, Q1 Tel: 6299 0563 www.mekongblissspa.com 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm) Located in the centre of Saigon, Mekong Bliss Spa is a top place to enjoy authentic Vietnamese spa treatments. As well as offering an impressive plethora of services such as herbal foot scrubs, warm stone therapy and purifying facials, part of the proceeds go towards helping disadvantage youth in the Mekong Delta, meaning you’re making difference while getting pampered. What could be better than that?

MIU MIU FOOT & SPA 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6659 3609 www.koneko.asia/miumiu 10am to 11:30pm (Last booking 10:30pm) Located in the city centre, and standing for “Nyanya” (or “cry of the kitten”), Miu Miu is an elegant and serene Japanese spa offering various body, facial and foot massages, as well as several nail treatments including manicures, polish and design, and scrubs. Massages range from 60 minutes to two hours and rates are from VND65,000 to VND530,000. The spa also offers Thann and Harnn, popular beauty products in Thailand.

QING SPA 110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa above the foot massage salon that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service and members get a 20 percent discount off foot & body massage as well as a 10 percent discount on other services.

SPA TROPIC 79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1 Tel: 3910 5575 www.spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Established since 2002, Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Spa Tropic offers a complete range of spa services and an al fresco café with a healthy food and drinks menu crafted by a New York trained organic chef.

THANH SANCTUARY Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated with furnishings brought in from Thailand. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies such as massages and body scrubs.

THE SPA Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0290 www.thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 ext. 2235 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level. Six treatment rooms for

women, four treatment rooms for men, one foot massage room and two VIP spa suites (couples’ treatment rooms) are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Treatments start at VND400,000 and packages are available regularly.

THE SPA AT THE DUXTON HOTEL Duxton Hotel, 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxton.com Conveniently located in the very central Duxton Hotel, The Spa offers a full range of services including deluxe manicures and pedicures, aroma body massages, 60–minute foot massages, and the usual sauna and steam bath facilities.

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury downtown spa noted for its tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages (from VND900,000), facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3. Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction for over a decade has firmly established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors. Complimentary beverages are offered in addition to a complete range of professional spa services. Family owned since 1996, YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9901 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Spa InterContinental offers guests the professional spa expertise and a truly sensory experience. With an extensive menu, the Spa InterContinental provides the caring touch of the local therapists and the best of active pure ingredients and exotic botanical recipes, bringing to life Asia’s healing traditions.

SALONS FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 3521 0599 www.famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

JUST MEN 40 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services (starting from VND200,000), offers massages for the tired executive, with a head, shoulder and

First Impression (Deep cleansing) with 40 min for 660,000 VND Facial Rejuvenation (Vitamin C ) with 60 min for 1,170,000 VND and 90 min for 1,650,000 VND 23C 3C Ton Duc Thang, District 1, HCMC Tel: (84-8) 3823 3777 rsv@rosablancavn.com www.rosablancavn.com Open: 9:30 - 19:00 (Closed Monday)

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STYLE

LISTINGS

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 130 CLOTHING STORES 130 LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS 132 SPORTSWEAR 133 TAILORS 133 INTERIORS ART 133 CRAFT 134 FURNITURE & HOMEWARES 134 KITCHEN & BATHROOM 135

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 2K BAG SHOP 362 Huynh Tan Phat, Q7; 193 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc; 55 Pham Van Thuan, Bien Hoa Tel: 097 7872 777 This cute little store has been gaining popularity amongst Vietnamese and foreigners alike. Although dinky from the outside, 2K stocks an impressive, colourful selection of purses, wallets, handbags, manbags, laptop carriers, backpacks and suitcases. If you’re hunting for a good value, last minute purchase, then 2K is well worth the visit. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND1.5 million.

ACCESSORIZE B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9308 9am to 10pm One of the most instantly recognisable international retail brands operating inside Vincom Center, Accessorize pulls in droves of shoppers thanks to stocking an attractive range of globally sourced products, from beachwear and children’s clothing to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses and much more. Prices vary depending on type and design but generally start from around VND200,000.

BIRKENSTOCK B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Stands out from the crowd thanks to its

ICONS 101 CASUAL WEAR FORMAL WEAR SHOES BAGS JEWELLERY ACCESSORIES SWIMWEAR UNDERWEAR

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visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings LIGHTING 135 ELECTRONICS CAMAERAS 135 COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES 136 MOBILE PHONES 136 GROCERIES BAKERIES 136 CATERING 137 GROCERIES 137 LIQUOR & WINE 138 wooden and neon-lit frontage and eyecatching wooden shelves and boxes used to display its Birkenstock brand products. Selling shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany made with various designs and colours, there are also similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

BLUE DRAGON 1B Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm It’s hard to ignore this store as its frontage is painted in a stark lemon yellow. Well-known for its selection of recycled bags made from plastic feed sacks, coming in all designs and colours, the unique product selection includes colourful quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery, scrap metal animals and other such wares. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

CHARLES & KEITH 18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9306 9am to 10pm This airy, well-displayed and wellorganised Singaporean store has two branches in town. An elegant beige frontage stands out thanks to three large hanging posters. Sells women’s shoes, bags and accessories with a wide range of products from boots, heels and sandals to bags and clutches. Prices are acceptable for an international brand with a pair of thong sandals costing VND775,000 and leather bags starting at VND1.1 million. There is also a selection of sunglasses from VND1.1 million and belts for VND600,000.

DR. MARTENS

Chaudhary, this retail-cum-gallery space is decked out in white giving it a sleek aura of elegance. Specialises in contemporary and exclusive arty jewellery including rings, bracelets, necklaces and medals all displayed in U-shaped cases. The products are handcrafted and made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials consisting of precious metals, plastic, zinc or fiberglass. There are also exhibitions and gallery talks every month and the gallery stocks the work of guest jewellery artists. Check the website for details.

IPA-NIMA 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 2701 www.ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm Looking for fun, sexy, glamorous accessories? Look no further. Dubbed one of the most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery in Vietnam, Ipa-Nima is the brainchild Hong Kong-born designer Christina Yu. The flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes definitely catch the eye. Also stocks shoes, dresses and hats. Prices range from for bags, VND1.2 million to VND2.1 million for shoes and from VND3 million for dresses.

JEMMA 174 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3926 0270 www.jemma.com.vn 9am to 10pm A branch of the Vietnamese SJC company, the elegance and luxury of this space provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece. A coral necklace costs around VND900,000 while a silver ring with an angel hair stone is stocked at around VND1.5 million. A selection of bags starts from VND1.4 million.

MAI O MAI

shop name checking a host of famous international timepiece brands means this shop is unmissable. Large and with in-your-face displays, TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. A funky plastic Swatch strap watch costs VND2 million while a classic gilded Longines strap starts at VND11 million. Also stocks high-end brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

TIC TAC WATCHES 72 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 3519 www.tictacwatch.com 9am to 8pm The pleasant and steady sound of a watch stays the same. However, its design has evolved along with mankind. So has the TicTac Company, growing from a family watch specialist store in Ho Chi Minh City in 1978 to an elegant black-andgold designer watch showroom. Stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Baume & Mercier, Maurice Lacroix, Armand Nicolet, Mido, Hirsch and Swiza. Also provides repairs and battery changes. Time seems to never stop at Tic Tac Watches.

THERESE JEWELRY 9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3827 3756 www.theresejewelry.com 8am to 7.30pm A good place for luxury jewellery, this store is located on a tiny street in between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi. However, it stands out thanks to its décor and design with a big wooden and glass door. Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, an oval pink stone necklace, a gold plain daisy brooch, all displayed in a U-shaped wooden case. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring. Men can also find a selection of cufflinks here.

VESPA SHOP

67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4007 Mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool and funky jewellery. There are also selections of ethnic bags, fabulous hand-made silver pieces and lacquer items. All products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000 and intricate designs cost over VND2.1 million. The staff is friendly and speak English.

Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Located inside Saigon Square, this store is perfect for anyone looking to indulge in their obsession with classic scooters. Stocking a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia from Saigon Scooter Centre, the wares include t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and much more. Rental scooters and bikes are also available.

SERGIO ROSSI

YB DESIGNS

146AB Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Located opposite Labella, the luxurious design and appearance of this quiet shop actually intimidates passers-by. Features upmarket shoes and bags made from high-quality materials such as crocodile or python skin and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads. Prices vary but a normal pair of shoes starts from VND21 million. Credit cards (of course) are accepted.

127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3832 3904 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm Dr Martens has come a long way from the punk era of the late 1970s when its boots first gained popularity as a hard-man (or woman) accessory. Indeed, according to a recent consumer survey, eight out of 10 urban Vietnamese teenagers own a pair of sandals from this global shoe brand. Standing out thanks to its bright yellow signage, the street style and wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots that contrast from the 15-hole lace-ups from the past. But then, with Dr Martens its all about the quality of the soles.

115 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 9582 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm The award-winning SKECHERS is one of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. Now the number two footwear brand in the US with new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old, SKECHERS is fast becoming a popular choice with Vietnamese. The display is impressive with shoes in many designs and colours hanging on the walls. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

TDC SWISS WATCHES

35 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 6291 8162 www.galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm Located next to Jaspa’s and run by jewellery and furniture designer Vivek

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Tel: 3929 0685 www.tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm The wide signage on the front of the

SKECHERS

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 0907 168910 www.yimbaderjewelry.com Situated on the same site as Snap Café, YB is a small shop with simple décor, offering all kinds of jewellery including earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings. Most of the products are handmade and crafted from various gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite. Prices are affordable, depending on the type of gemstone and design, but usually start from VND50,000. Also offers custom orders.

CLOTHING STORES BUDGET MARATHON 147 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Even though their business card claims Marathon to be a sports fashion store, it’s actually a beachwear shop. With an orange frontage, this outlet quickly grabs the attention of passers by. Displays many products in a simple and accessible style, offering colourful beach pants, t-shirts and flip-flops for men and women, caps, and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices range from VND110,000 to VND190,000 for a t-shirt, and VND140,000 for a pair of flip-flops.

PAPAYA 171 Bui Vien, Q1 www.papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts for both men and women, which are manufactured in Vietnam. Also offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. A part of the profit from each sale is given to two charity organizations, Poussieres de Vie and the Endangered Asian Species Trust. A t-shirt starts at VND189,000, a cap costs VND99,000 and a post card is only VND15,000.

ORANGE 180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3. Tel: 3820 2620 152 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3836 5028 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults. Despite simple décor, Orange stands out thanks to the array of colourful products hanging on the wall including jeans, t-shirts, bags, sandals and belts. A selection of attractive hats and leather bracelets are also stocked. Prices are affordable with t-shirts selling for VND180,000 while bags go for between VND90,000 and VND600,000. Shoes start at VND400,000 a pair.

MID-RANGE BAM SKATESHOP 174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-cum-skate store has played a large role in the current rise of local, non K-Pop street fashion thanks to its branded mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps, accessories and more. Naturally, there is also a range of skateboards on sale, with the board and wheels costing anywhere between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

GINKGO 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 0905 493148 www.ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run clothing store that also has an outlet in Nha Trang. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. Has a permanent photo gallery upstairs exhibiting the works of Thiery Beyne.

MAXXSTYLE 52 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3. Tel: 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Located next to Zen Plaza, this Vietnamese brand is one of the best-known shops in town for unisex clothing. Contains a wide range of apparel including jeans, tees, shirts, jackets, khaki trousers and much more, all displayed in a huge retail space. Stocks many different designs, fabrics and colours, and prices are good. A pair of men’s jeans starts at VND500,000, and VND450,000 for women, while a female shirt costs about VND300,000 and VND279,000 for a printed male tee.

MID TO TOP BOSSINI 22 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3839 2292 9am to 10pm This Hong Kong-brand retailer sells both male and female casual wear, including jeans, khaki trousers, tees and shirts. Although carrying various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts, there are not many products. Prices range from VND900,000 for a pair of women’s jeans and VND700,000 for a shirt. Also stocks socks and belts.

ER-COUTURE 43 Thao Dien, Q1 Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com 9am to 8pm This Scandinavian outlet is situated on the first floor of An Phu market, stocking high-quality designer garments. Carries a full range of products, from floral dresses to tight tanks starting at VND1.8 million, as well as chiffon shorts and high-waist trousers for VND2 million. Shoes, bags, belts, scarves and hats are also carried as well as larger sizes.

D’BLANC 89A Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 5164 www.d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by the modern woman with a youthful attitude, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. A complete lifestyle collection that offers a broad range of stylish looks to take women from day to night and work to the weekend. Accessories are also available. A dress costs from VND1.5 million.

FRENCH CONNECTION L1-08, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7493 www.8lions.com 9am to 10pm Located inconspicuously on a corner of the Vincom Center, customers have trouble finding this generically designed shop. Stocks both casual and formal wear for men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts. Prices here are also surprisingly reasonable. A male tee starts at VND750,000 while a pair of men’s jeans goes for as little as VND1.8 million. There is also a small selection of bags and belts.

GAYA CLOTHING Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 Located on the 2nd floor of the Gaya, all the clothing here is designed and tailoredmade by renowned French-Cambodian designer Romyda Keth and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. There are plenty of colourful and sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops. If it doesn’t quite fit, alterations are available. Prices start at VND2 million for a normal party dress. Also stocks a small selection of men’s shirts.

NINOMAXX

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3824 9689 www.ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm A brother of Maxxstyle, this brand is well-known locally for both its men’s and women’s clothing. Set in a large, two-floor space, Ninomax stands out thanks to its large white-painted Renaissancestyle columns. Despite its size, a lack of adequate lighting gives the shop a slightly darker feel. Has the same prices as Maxxstyle and also stocks similar products.

85 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3829 4004 8am to 10pm The products of this Australian fashion label are displayed on the basement floor with contemporary ranges of casual and eveningwear fused with Asian designs. The work of proprieter Hellen Holani, the apparel includes sweet floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Worth a visit with friends so you can also enjoy a cup of coffee at the in-house cafe while waiting to pick up your clothes.

style IT'S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSET

MAI’S

89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com 9am to 9pm More than just a typical clothing store, It’s Happened To Be A Closet (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a colourful range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, but doubles up as a Wi-Fi friendly café stocking an impressive array of imported food and beverages, as well as artful jewelry, handicrafts, comestibles, accessories and books. Also offers manicures and pedicures.

132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 2733 9.30am to 9.30pm Based on the ground floor of the Continental Hotel, Mai’s feels more like an art space than a fashion shop. Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories. Her renowned signature pieces include velvet and cotton ao dai reworked for casual wear, as well as hand embroidered vintage US army and flak jackets. Also stocks a fine selection of artworks. Prices range from VND1 million to VND80 million for clothes, and VND600,000 to VND40 million depending on styles and materials.

LABELLA 85-87 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Located opposite Sergio Rossi, the decorative style and display of this Vietnamese fashion outlet is both impressive and endearing, using strong colours like orange and wood-brown to catch the eye. Products include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. A large selection of bags is displayed on colourful and eyecatching box-shaped shelves. Also offers night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

LEVI’S 47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3240 7460 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3. Tel: 3240 7461 9am to 9.30pm For cosmopolitans who love genuine Levi’s Jeans, there are numerous of the self-branded stores throughout the city. Invented by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, the brand has become one of the most recognisable and imitated pieces of clothing throughout the world. The stores here offer a wide range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices vary but normally start at VND2 million for a pair of woman’s jeans.

LITI 40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Located near the corner of Pasteur and Ly Tu Trong, Liti harks back to Vietnam’s French colonial era. Stocking simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, other retro ware includes clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple black blouse starts at VND820,000 while an old clock costs upwards of VND3 million.

LOLITA 61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (opening Aug. 15) Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 (opening Sep. 1) Tel: 3925 9993 www.lolita.com.vn Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, offering stylish and comfortable easy-to-wear clothing for work or play

L’USINE First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm A contemporary shopping experience can be enjoyed at this fashion boutique, café and art gallery. A spacious, elegant Indochina-themed image of a 1930’s French garment factory, L’Usine stocks exclusive labels from all over the world, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons tailored to the climate of Ho Chi Minh City. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, home-wares, nick-knacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

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MANGO 40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1136 96 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3824 6624 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3914 7464 B1-43 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9300 www.maisonco.com 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand is located in an impressively designed two-storey building with a black-painted neon logo outside. The entire shop is well displayed with air-conditioning and professional staff, exuding a feeling of class but not luxury. Provides a full range of clothing including jeans, tees, skirts, trousers, cardigans, leggings and much more. There are also selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million, and a pair of jeans starts at VND1.4 million. Visit the website for more Mango outlets in town.

MR & MRS SMITH 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet, located in the same building as Dogma and Saigon Kitsch, sells a variety of men’s and women’s clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam for export markets in Europe, Japan and the US. All designs are brand new, delivered directly from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices (VND100,000 to VND70,000).

NGAN 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 6290 9391 www.nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Ngan has become a well-known brand due to their distinctive tailor-made clothing and designs. Stocks mainly women’s clothes, however, men are also suitably catered for. The entire shop is designed in a sleek and luxurious black with cozy lighting emanating from a pendant light fixture. Due to the elegant and sophisticated designs and high-quality fabrics, prices are more top-end, with a party dress ranging from VND6 million to VND10 million a piece, and a normal dress starting at VND3 million. There are selections of boots, belts, scarves and jewellery boxes. Also does bespoke orders.

RAZ GARNETT 137 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, a wide range of sneakers and authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops. Crocs sandals are also displayed in the middle of the store. T-shirts range from VND400,000 to VND900,000, VND400,000 for a bag and VND700,000 for sneakers. Also stocks sunglasses starting at VND400,000. Has European-sized t-shirts.

SONG 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, Q1. Tel: 3821 5292 76D Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3824 6986 This t-shaped and turquoise-painted store is located on the first floor of Saigon Center, stocking the clothing of French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie. All the

designs have a quaint, slightly Gallic feel and are made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000 and a spandex shirt goes for VND1.5 million. Also stocks shoes, sandals and a small range of accessories.

THUY NGA DESIGN 19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1. Tel: 3820 3574 www.thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm With over 15 years in the trade, Thuy Nga is one of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam. This luxurious shop stocks both men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear. A long-sleeved women’s shirt starts from VND1 million while a male striped shirt starts from VND1.3 million. Also stocks jewellery and accessories.

UMBRELLA 35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Impressively designed with exposed brick walls, Umbrella is airy and well displayed with warm lighting exuding a comfortable atmosphere. Sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices are acceptable for tailormade clothing, with a party dress starting from VND2.7 million. A blouse starts from VND990,000 and shoes, bags and belts are available. Also offers a small selection of imported funky jewellery ranging from VND1 million a piece.

TOP-END CHLOE 155 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm Located inside the Rex Hotel, this Parisian fashion house is one of the most popular international brands with local celebrities due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products. Chloe Saigon stocks a range of Chloe products, from low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes to Sakia bags. There is also a selection of glasses in many cool and contemporary styles and designs.

JUST CAVALLI M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9005 9am to 10pm Contemporary decor with large mirrors and leather sofas creates the setting for a range of products catering for both men and women. The apparel of this Italian brand varies in both design and fabric, helping shoppers identify with contrasting international fashion trends. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million. There is also a small selection of bags and scarves.

MARC JACOBS 155 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel next door to Chloe, this urban American brand carries international-standard clothing and a wide range of sophisticated bags placed on wooden shelves, costing from around VND6 million. There is also a glass case in the middle of the store containing other accessories.

VERSACE M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 9am to 10pm Spacious, well-displayed and stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, Versace is shopping at its most lavish. The products come in many colours and fabrics, designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers. Prices are expectedly expensive; a well-tailored floral dress will set you back VND40 million. There is also a small selection of shoes and bags.

LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS AQUAMARINE 211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 3827 5695 www.xuanthuswimsuit.com 8am to 8.30pm Situated on the corner of Truong Dinh and Ly Tu Trong, Aquamarine is a classy branch of Xuan Thu swimwear. A small shop full of colourful products, a step inside results in a sensory overload. Offering custom orders, the stock here runs the gamut from one-piece bikinis through to twopieces as well as monokinis and various types of beachwear with different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Also stocks a small selection of scarves.

JOCKEY Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm One of the most popular underwear brands in Vietnam, the American selfbranded shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear. Prices of imported clothing are slightly more expensive compared to domestically manufactured products. A sport tee ranges from VND150,000 to VND180,000, while a pair of long johns starts at VND200,000, with a sports outfit costing VND300,000.

LA HA 139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands in Vietnam, La Ha caters for both men and women. The shop is small and simply decorated but contains a comprehensive range of products with many different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini. Also stocks yoga and gym outfits.

SSUZI 127 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm This brand is better known on Facebook than in The Backpackers’ Area. Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and two-piece bikinis starting from VND250,000. The shop has been designed well making it easy to search for the right swimsuit. Also stocks maxim dresses at VND380,000 and beach sandals at VND110,000. A small selection of earrings and sunglasses is available. Search on Facebook for ssuziswimwear for new designs and promotions.

TRIUMPH Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, Triumph’s high-quality products make women look and feel good. However, because of the form of the bra cup, this brand is considered to be more suitable for European women. The bras are plentiful and come in many different colours, styles and designs, while the pants look more classic and traditional compared to other brands. Prices vary but normally a bra starts at VND600,000 and a pair of knickers goes for VND200,000. Also stocks a small selection of bikinis.

WACOAL 94 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1. Tel: 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women in Ho Chi Minh City, Wacoal has more than 10 shops around town. However, there is a lack of product variety and the designs are quite classic. Compared to Triumph, prices are quite expensive with a bra ranging from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while

pants start at VND250,000 per pair. No swimsuits. Staff are friendly, helpful and enthusiastic.

SPORTSWEAR SPORTS STREET A large amount of fine and affordable sportswear can be found around town, however, there are two main streets stocking sportswear in the centre; Huyen Tran Cong Chua, between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Du in District 1; and Pham Hong Thai, between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Loi. You can find everything for sports on these streets, from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma at ultra affordable prices through to the real thing.

U.BEST HOUSE 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1. Tel: 3920 9187 9am to 11pm With its wooden frontage, this shop feels and looks like an army disposal store, with a comprehensive range of products, including flashlights, binoculars, climbing clothing, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags and even underwear and cycling gear. If you’re after any products related to travelling, then this store is a must.

TAILORS HOANG DUNG 270 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 2240 5990 8am to 8pm Located on the corner of Bui Vien and Cong Quynh, this store offers a wide range of tailor-made clothing with all designs and styles, from vests to ao dais, and skirts and trousers. Customers can either bring their own fabric or ask the tailor to choose for them. A normal pair of shirts can be made in two days. Prices are acceptable, with a vest costing around VND700,000 and VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including the price of the fabrics. Guarantees that all tailor-made clothing will fit.

MANDARINA 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 5267 9am to 7pm One of the most difficult things for foreigners living in Vietnam is finding the correct shoes size. Mandarina is a good place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes. They can even make shoes in 24 hours for around VND1 million. Simply choose the design and colour and they will take care of the rest. There is also a wide range of ready-to-wear shoes, from sandals and peep toes to slingbacks and boots. Stocks a small selection of bags, too. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000 depending on style and materials.

T&V TAILOR 39 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 3824 4556 9am to 11pm Run by two Vietnamese sisters, Tricia and Verona, this shop offers tailor-made clothing for both men and women with the latest and trendiest designs and styles. Stocks a wide range of fabrics, which is helpful for those that don’t know where to purchase it separately. Find something on the rack, get measured up then return a day or two later and pick up your custom-made garment. Alterations can be made upon request. An ao dai costs from VND1.6 million and a suit starts at VND4 million including fabric.

INTERIORS ART APRICOT GALLERY 50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy

and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art. Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars. Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

DOGMA 1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propaganda-printed tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

GALLERY 244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamesethemed stereotypes available elsewhere

in town. Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

NHU Y 257 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers. Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHUONG MAI 213C Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists. Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a fourfloor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1 Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of

style

other artists. Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

TMG 234 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and well-organised space offers a comprehensive range of products. An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

CRAFT EM EM 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-made-clothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

MEKONG CREATIONS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Tel: 2210 3110 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-creations.org A project of the BGO Mekong Plus designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. All products are locally produced, including paper mache, ratten, bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. Bamboo vases from VND350,000 and rag ranges from VND400,000.

NGUYEN FRERES 2 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house. Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY 83 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA 209 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above. Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

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MEKONG QUILTS

CHI LAI

GAYA

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Tel: 2210 3110 64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Tel: 3914 2119 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-quilts.org A charity organization helping poor women in rural areas, all products are handmade with a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within 5-6 weeks. Also stocks accessories such as aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3. Tel: 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive postWorld War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linen-embroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

CLIC CLAC SOFA

HAFELE SHOWROOM

FURNITURE & HOMEWARES AUSTIN HOME 20 Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.

A&W FINE FURNITURE Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs. Their products are stocked at AA Deco with Their products are stocked at Nha Xinh showroom.

BELLAVITA The Crescent Parcel CR1-07/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by well-known brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware. Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT 68-70 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My HungTel: 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks. Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CALLIGARIS 4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interior-furnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock includes many covers in various colours and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

DIABOLO 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

ESTHETIC 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-to-order furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

FEELING TROPIC 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4640/4643 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery. Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

LIVING & GIVING 59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors. Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

THE LOST ART 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more. Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

UNITY 12 Dang Tran Con, Q1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection— to give your home a sense of Unity.

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN 152 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3925 3648 www.verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custom-made items.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailormade environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

KITCHEN & BATHROOM CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1 It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

LIGHTING CAO DONG Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand.

Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO 51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

LIGHT HOUSE 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials. Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE 98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 4634 www.mosaiquedecoration.com 9am to 9pm This eye-popping lime green-painted boutique carries furniture, tableware and

decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

VEKTOR LED 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.VektorLED.com Vektor LED provide LED base replacement lights and T8 tubes that are easy to install in current sockets. Using green materials (no mercury or other toxins), these lights provide an energy saving of 50% against normal Fluorescent lights, with 10-15 times the lifespan of normal lights.

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS CAMERA STREET Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH 28 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a

NHA XINH 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung. Tel: 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials. From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs. Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE 3B Tong Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6657 0788 www.thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and

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style professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS Tel: 0903 035 271 www.silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, professional, true HD and extremely small. The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

LE VU NIKON 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000. Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

MAT RONG VANG Fitting & Services Centre, 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.goldendragoneye.com Ctrack GPS vehicle solutions. A world leader in real time monitoring and data collection, Ctrack GPS has operations in 56 countries and have more than 20 years of hands on experiences in solutions related

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3825 7750 9am to10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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style to GPS and management logistics. Juotec T-eye Dashboard Cameras record events outside and inside vehicles with high-res 1.3Mb cameras.

PHAM THE 11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony. They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES COMPUTER STREETS Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

CARTRIDGE WORLD 81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0999 www.cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices. With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of wellknown brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER 236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 7300 6666 www.elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million. Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 3925 8999 www.hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million. In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customer-service.

LONG BINH COMPUTER 50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 0699 www.longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers. Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU 125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM 42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1. Tel: 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN 428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3818 1188 www.tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

THUAN MY CO. 227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1. Tel: 3838 9164 www.thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

MOBILE PHONES GIA KIEN 352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3868 3733 www.giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE 382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3526 5838 www.thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG,

Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

Dorée serves up a variety of colourful and traditional French breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds, including baguettes, fougasse, and dieppois and montagnard sandwiches. Desserts include passion cheese, tiramisu and chocolate mouse.

THE GIOI DI DONG

NHU LAN

182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292 www.thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and specifications. The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices. Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A 328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3863 3333 www.vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

GROCERIES BAKERIES CAKEWALK 84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 6295 9087 www.cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS 54 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic– based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS 33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME

64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

100 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Tel: 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western– fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

SIMRANS

LE REUNION DES MARMITES

SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com www.simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate. No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

SESAME BAKERY 153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 or 0918 445311 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOUS LES JOURS 180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

VOELKER 39 Thao Dien, Q2 www.voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

CATERING AU PARC CATERING Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties,

Tel: 08 6274 0647 www.lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more. Visit website for full menu.

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

QUAN BUI Tel: 01286 252 351 / 3602 2241 (Mr Danh) High quality Vietnamese food at reasonable prices for the home or workplace. Caters for private parties, receptions, office celebrations, and conferences. Choose from an extensive Vietnamese menu (crispy spring rolls, chicken fried rice, sautéed prawns and cashew nuts) or mix and match with Western cuisine (canapés, dips, cocktail sandwiches, fresh tropical fruit). Efficient delivery, all equipment and waiter service provided.

REX HOTEL CATERING 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3829 2185 With the same team that feeds the guests at the Rex Hotel, prospective clients can be sure that the party they plan will be in good hands.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY 41A Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: 3898 9286 info@saigoncateringco.com With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals. Experienced with every conceivable style, from the smallest dinner party to a stand-

up cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow, marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY 84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128 info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget.Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

YES! ICE–CREAM HOME DELIVERY SERVICE Tel: 3844 6099 A delivery service offering banana–on a stick, Öla premium ice–cream & frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice–cream. All produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

GROCERIES ANNAM GOURMET MARKET 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

AUSSIE–FRUITS 45 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Q1 Tel: 6291 8126 www.aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109, www.classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KITCHEN – QUALITY FROZEN READY MEALS Tel: 0974 444 001 www.kitchen.net.vn Kitchen provides an alternative to takeaways with home-cooked frozen ready meals in biodegradable packaging. Beef, pork, chicken and vegetarian meals cost between VND140,000-VND220,000 for 2-3 portions. Order online at www.kitchen. net.vn. Free delivery.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally– sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer. Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer. Open seven days a week.

LE COCHON D’OR 32 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

OPERATION: TEA Tel: 01693 583563 www.operationteavietnam.com Offering a line high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and tea ware. Tea tasting events are conducted by an experienced tea infusionist, who is available for private tastings as well.

PHUONG HA 58 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA 60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers. Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here

HARVEST BAKING 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com www.harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

LA DORÉE 216 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 65 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, La

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generation v speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

THE OASIS 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 (inside Snap Cafe) Tel: 3744 6432 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2449 The Oasis grocery store and gourmet shop was established in Hanoi three years ago and offers imported and local delicatessen such as cold cuts and cheeses from around the world, organic vegetables and many other homemade, artisanal readyto-eat food. Specialties include homemade lasagnas, soups, raviolis, pasta and sausages.

VEGGY’S 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET SHOP 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 www.annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

ELECTRONICS SUPERMARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day. You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson. In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information.

CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET 590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

GIA THANH

975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE 133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm

NGUYEN KIM

63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm

THIEN HOA

277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa.vn 8am to 10pm

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BACCHUS CORNER 158D Pasteur, Q1 www.bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC 74E Hai Ba Trung,Q1 Tel: 5404 3575 www.daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE 6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

LE TONNEAU 15D Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 6597 Overlooking the wine store on the first floor is the VIP room upstairs which caters to club members and those who take their wine seriously. Special wine–tasting every Friday. Call Patrick for more details (0903102418).

RED APRON 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

TAPAS WINE CO LTD 2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com An importer of Spanish wines, Tapas delivers directly to your door. A growing list of products includes wines from the northern and central regions of Spain such as Elciego and Rioja Alavesa. Their website features their full portfolio complete with reviews.

GENERATION V

LISTINGS BABY EQUIPMEANT 138 CHILDREN'S BOOKS 138 CLASSES & SPORTS 138 CLOTHING 139

BABY EQUIPMENT BABY 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

CHILDREN’S SQUARE 270 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 2841 Pampers and Huggies nappies, baby bottles, bibs, buggies and other necessities.

ME OI 1B Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital with reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

MOM & BABY 230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3, Tel: 3932 1611 Closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

CHILDREN’S BOOKS FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odd ends.

PHUONG NAM 1st Flr, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

CLASSES & SPORTS ALPHA GALLERY

178 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

10 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3822 4946 Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber runs six– week printmaking classes for children and adults, starting from the very beginning and working through to final prints made from copper plates. Other printing methods are also addressed.

VINE CELLAR – CASA HABANA

DANCENTER

41 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2284 www.vine–group.com The wine store represents hundreds of award – winning wines from every part of the globe and stocks an exclusive collection of spirits. Also, Casa Habana – Cigar Shop provides 100% authentic Cuban cigars, and luxury cigar accessories.

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4490/4340 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and more classes of all levels at this modern dance studio.

VINIFERA 15C7 Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

Mr Anh Vu Phi, another conservatory graduate now teaching at the International School, offers private tutoring in guitar and piano in Vietnamese and English for VND200,000 per 45–minute session. He has 30 years experience teaching youngsters, and after a stint in Spanish city Seville now offers classes in flamenco, call him at 091 387 7884.

VINO WINE SHOP

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 (gallery and workshop), 88 Ho Tung Mau (FLOW – permanent exhibition) Tel: 0903 955780 hk.painter@gmail.com helenekling@yahoo.com www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how

THE WAREHOUSE

GUITAR AND PIANO CLASSES

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings EDUCATION 139 ENTERTAIMENT 140 KIDS' PARTIES 141 MEDICAL 141 to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults.

KINDERMUSIK Tel: 0907 099 480 goetz@LNTgoetz.com The world’s premier music & movement program for children from birth to 7– years–old taught by Ms Lauralynn, B.A. & M.M.Ed.. The courses nurture every facet of a child’s development – social, physical, cognitive, emotional and English language skills – through music & movement.

LIFETIME SPORTS Tel: 0909 269511 mb@michaelbelmes.com www.michaelbelmes.com Group swimming, tennis and golf lessons run by Michael Belmes, the former Head Coach of the Vietnam National Polo Team and the Phillipines Elite Development Group of Swimmers. Prices start from around VND120,000. A Saigon Masters Swim Club is also being formed. Visit the website for more info.

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels for VND150,000 a session.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Steffen Christophe teaches introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard, and voice. With a diploma in guitar and singing from 10 years spent at the Geneva Conservatory, lessons at his home come from 25 years experience playing – one hour private tuition cost VND500,000 for students aged four to 14, and VND550,000 for those over (scb_ music77@hotmail.com).

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

generation v Sherwood Residence, Q3 & classes now available in Q7. Run by Elizabeth Hollins.

SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Offering a variety of classes for movement development for ages two to 11 in An Phu and Phu My Hung. Saigon Movement aims to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports– based activities. Contact Abbie Klein for more info.

SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com www.divevietnam.com Scuba Diving Adventures in a Swimming Pool for 8 + 9 year olds. 15 week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam.

RMIT VIETNAM 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn The venue for a large number of sporting activities for children of all ages. Sports include baseball, softball, football (soccer) and more.

SAIGON PONY CLUB 42 Le Van Thinh, Q2 Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn the correct riding technique from the three part–time teachers. Half–hour lessons with the engaging Amaury cost VND200,000.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY Tel: 0862 819790 info@SaigonSportsAcademy.com www.SaigonSportsAcademy.com Saigon Sports Academy offer coaching for children aged 4–16 years and private lessons for children and adults. They currently offer soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming. They have a team of International coaches offering training for beginners all the way up to professional levels. Please check the website for details. Also offers a youth soccer league that runs on Sundays 2pm–6pm in District 7. Call 0932 153502.

STAGEMAGIC Tel: 0903 145087 www.stagemagic.biz The city’s first stage school, offering youngsters between seven and 19 the opportunity to develop their acting and singing skills. The ultimate aim is to put on public performances at the end of each term. Cost for a 10–week term begins at VND2.1 million.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. One class a week costs VND160,000 per week; two classes a week are VND800,000 and three classes a month are VND1 million. There’s an additional fee for non–members. Contact Mr. Phuc on 0903 918149.

CLOTHING 123 BABY CLOTHING 226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on good–quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

BELLI BLOSSOM 12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3822 6615 4th Floor, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel:5413 7574 www.belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom is a shop catering to moms and babies stocking imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and more. Available brands include Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends and Gingersnaps.

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 3853 The emphasis here is on attractive and unique designs for the very young, encompassing clothing, pyjamas and bedding. A great place to browse for some memorable items.

THANH THUY 93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 4893 There are clothes for all ages in here, mostly made of cotton and reasonably– priced, with friendly English–speaking staff on hand to help.

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL 227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.smallisb.com With the belief that each child is a prince or princess, the store offers an exclusive selection of brand names in clothing, accessories and creative toys. Creative toy brand names such as Playmobil, Vilac and Trousselier are on display and clothes by international designers such as Sonia Rykiel, Petit Bateau, Baby Dior and Kiwi are also available. As an added touch, the shop has been designed especially for children so that they feel at home.

EDUCATION

delivering the IB Diploma Programme.

ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 84 8 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com Founded in 1995, this international school of 800+ students drawn from 32 national backgrounds is served by 80+ UK expatriate teachers and 70+ support staff. It is the only international school in the city whose curriculum is wholly based on UK standards for all pupils from age two yrs (Playgroup) to 18yrs (Pre–University matriculation). Students graduate with IGCSE’s & A levels awarded by Cambridge University examinations board.

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL East-West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior school and a range of extracurricular activities. The new campus provides exceptional learning and sports facilities. Offers international curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Xi Early Childhood Centre, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 3744 6960 Early Childhood & Primary School, Early Childhood - Lotus 1, Primary - Cherry Blossom 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior School (Head Office), EastWest Highway, Q2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com A co-educational day school with dedicated early childhood, primary, middle and senior school campuses. An IB World School, students follow the PYP and MYP curriculum. Senior students follow the IGCSE – Cambridge A Levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies GRADE 12 Curriculum (UNSW). Focus on academic excellence, international student body, and exceptional facilities in quiet residential settings, qualified expatriate staff, range of co-curricular sport, creative, academic and musical activities and languages. Scholarships available.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com Three campuses offer a British–style education to moret than 1,500 children aged from two to 18. A centre for the UK Cambridge International Examinations boards, it is also an IB World School,

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh Tel: 5412 3456 www.cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers co-educational classes from Kindergarten to grade 12 for local and foreign students. Talented, certified teachers implement the awarded Ontario curriculum to create a studentcentered learning environment. Focuses on academic achievement, character education and global thinking with a commitment to the arts and languages (Vietnamese and French). Students graduate with the Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognised by universities worldwide.

COMPASS EDUCATION 15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3820 3302 / 3820 3202 information@compass.edu.vn www.compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education is a English language education company that offers a range of courses for teachers, students and managers, corporate and teacher training, nanny and teacher placements and career counseling.

GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7257 A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. A language programme is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3827 7008/3827 7008 info@gymboreeclasses.com.vn www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0 - 5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in over 30 countries, making them a leader in early childhood development programs. Recognized for their approach to parent involvement, their programmes encourage participation in, and understanding of, each child’s development.

628A An Binh, Q2 Tel: 3898 9788 pcc@parklandvn.com Provides a range of leisure activities including sports and movie nights for children of all ages. Participation requires membership of this well–known country club. Email for more details.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 0122 5636 682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Offers a full range of piano lessons, from basic to advanced ones such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin. Suitable for kids of all ages.

RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years at Somerset, Q1; AIS, Q2: APSC, Q2;

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generation v INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu, Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com ISHCMC, located in District 2, has been successfully graduating students with an IB Diploma to high-profile overseas colleges and universities since 1999. ISHCMC is the only fully authorized IB World School in HCMC, providing an International Baccalaureate curriculum (PYP, MYP & IBDP) to all students, ages 2 to 18. It is fully accredited by the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of School and Colleges (NEASC).

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 2222 7799 www.issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American standardbased curriculum taught by certified North American teachers. ISSP started the academic year of 2010-2011 with more than 100 students enrolled from 20 different nationalities. A brand new single purpose-built campus and state-of-art facility caters for nursery through to grade 5 (sixth grade added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese are welcome. Unique features include Mandarin language classes, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

generation v from 18 months to 6 years old offering daycare, a toddlers’s club in the morning, an afterschool club in the afternoon for 3 to 6 year olds and art and swimming classes.

PERFOMING ARTS ACADEMY OF HCMC Tel: 0862819679 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in piano, guitar, drums, singing, flute, clarinet, and saxophone by real musicians and experienced teachers. ABRSM Qualified. Group dance and drama sessions also available. Plus new vacancies in our popular Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3–5.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Q7 Tel: 3773 3171 admission@rissaigon.edu.vn www.rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides British/International education with native English teachers and state–of–the–art facilities. Students from more than twenty–five nationalities from age two to 18. RISS is an IB World School, a member of CIS and IPC, and an approved centre for IGCSE.

THE LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten has joined Sisterhood with school in USA and uses same curriculum. It is the Kindergarten with the best facilities and environment compare to any similar size school in Vietnam

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn School following the Montessori methodology for children from two to six years old, offering natural learning environments to complement the child’s natural sense of engagement with their surroundings. Also offers extra–curricular activities for children from three to 12.

NOAH’S CLUB 3 Duong So 4, Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien Ward, Q2. Tel/Fax: 3744 4709 noahandmum@yahoo.com.vn Children’s club for toddlers and children

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SAIGON INTERNATIONAL COLLEGE (SIC)

21K Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0938 371 760 www.sic.edu.vn An Australian-Vietnamese government project, SIC caters for Years 10, 11 & 12 and is under the Curriculum Council of Western Australia. All subjects taught in English by foreign teachers. Inspectors from Australia control teaching standards. Students graduate with the internationally recognised Australian Certificate of Education (WACE), which gives direct entry to all Australian universities. Fees up to VND142,702,000 per year.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 104A Tran Quoc Toan, Q3, Tel: 3932 5579 www.saigonkidscentre.com Has evolved over 10 years to create a creative learning environment through play for children between the ages of two and six. There are 12 teachers, and the school limits numbers to 85 to ensure personal attention for all the children.

schools. An independent and private college preparatory school with an individualized programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a US-based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

VAS

Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high school, emphasising state–of–the–art facilities, a multi–cultural student environment, and a commitment to a well–rounded education at all levels.

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: 3933 3655 www.vas.edu.vn VAS is one of the leading schools for teaching and learning development in Vietnam, providing from programmes from Kindergarten to Secondary school education. In line with their mission to educate an elite young generation with confidence to integrate into the world’s education, VAS also aims to develop its human resources by creating a professional and friendly working environment with attractive benefits for teachers.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS)

Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2 Tel: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn The school offers a British primary curriculum, supported by the Cambridge International Primary Program, as well as an integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. The school focuses on providing a stimulating learning environment, and a value priced education. A brand new 8,000 sq. meter eco-friendly campus, the largest of any primary school in Ho Chi Minh City, includes a pool, running stream and more.

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3266 / 3910 0168 www.vlstudies.com This professional school has built a good reputation over 16 years. VLS offers set and tailor-made courses of all levels at high quality with time flexibility. Lessons can be taken either at the school or at the learner’s office and home.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3519 4236, www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre provides kindergarten and pre–school education for children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3519 2223 Fax: 3519 2224 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn info@tasvietnam.edu.vn A fully-licensed American school programme designed by administrators and educators experienced in the development and operation of American and international

ENTERTAINMENT DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3825 7750 Diamond Plaza features a top–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options, with KFC and Pizza Hut.

PARKSON PLAZA 35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3827 7614 Over at Parkson Plaza there is a large selection of arcade games to choose from along with a bowling alley, with a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

of this kind. The facilities for children are excellent (children under 12 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian) at this 26–metre–tall wall, where you (or they) can climb up or abseil down. A day pass costs VND200,000

KIDS’ PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON Tel: 0909 052502, dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

THE BALLOON MAN 100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn If you don’t know how to cook jelly, never mind, because The Caterers do. Although mainly focused on grown–up events, they will cater for kids’ parties as well.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Three paediatricians make up the childcare speciality at this well–equipped

medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped paediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Operating in Vietnam since 1989, this clinic is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. An internationally experienced general medical and pediatric team will meet the preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs of your child. Emergency cases managed 24 hours a day. House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL 3 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Up–to–date well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care, alignment and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 3910 4545 info@victoriavn.com www.victoriavn.com Victoria Healthcare is especially committed to paediatrics, and its services for children include general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

WATER PUPPET THEATRE History Museum, 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3823 4582 Much more cultured than malls and a sure–fire winner with children, is the enchanting Water Puppet Theatre, devoted to this traditional art which the Vietnamese called mua roi nuoc.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2, Tel: 3402 2542 www.xrockclimbing.com. X–Rock Climbing is the city’s first venture

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Hanoi

THE FLOWER GIRL / PIPE DREAMS / THE VERTICAL CHALLENGE THE MANY FACES OF HANOI

The Flower Girl Words by Kaitlin Rees. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

t would take the whole afternoon if we were going to talk about details,” Linh says, referring to her family’s lotus pond that hugs the shores by the Ferris wheel alongside West Lake. The 28-year-old flower farmer knows all the details, though, and it’s impossible to not go into them. What else would we talk about? Lotus flowers are complex organisms. There are 12 petal flowers, and there are 100 petal flowers. The seeds, the stems, the roots, the leaves, the petals, the pollen, and that mystifyingly fragrant white part in the centre all serve a specific function. And all have their own kind of separate elegance as they populate the still water. Linh’s real name is Do Hong Hoa, or Pink Rose. It’s a name that is too pretty, she claims, for the hard life she has, and so people call her by her nickname. Linh married young and is the mother of two children. One is seven years old and one is 15 months. She doesn’t say much more about them, but continues to offer up numbers. One thousand flowers make 1kg of tea. One flower at her family’s shop sells for VND7,000. Also at her family’s tea and flower shop, next to the 12-petal loti that wait in bundles by the road, is a collection of loose petals that anyone wanting smoother and better smelling skin, or cockroach repellent, can take. Mats are laid out on the floor for those who want to stop for the family’s renowned tea. According to Linh, the soil of her family’s pond is more nutritious than those of her competitors, which makes the flowers’ perfume stronger and the tea taste, well, better.

Pause for Thought The post-rain romance surrounding West Lake and the delicately sweet lotus tea at Linh’s shop produces an air of serenity that embraces all. Even the incredulously drunk post-lunch crowd of men cannot help but wax poetical in this place, spouting profundities on time and space while sipping

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their tea. This setting of calm and polite patience is where Linh has worked for the last 12 years, after her family decided to start farming flowers. Before there were lotus, there were fish. For Linh’s family at least. The higher maintenance and lower benefits of farming fish fuelled the decision to transition to lotus. Linh also transitions to lotus when asked about her dreams of doing something other than farming. “I’ve had dreams of doing something different,” she says, “but my educational background is not good and I don’t think that

“I’ve had dreams of doing something different but my educational background is not good and I don’t think that I can. My wish now is to be able to keep this pond so that everyone can enjoy the lotus” I can. My wish now is to be able to keep this pond so that everyone can enjoy the lotus.” The lotus flowers can be enjoyed for about four months of the year. If you want help remembering, the season is from Ho Chi Minh’s birthday on May 19 to the day of his death on Sep. 2. This interesting fact about flowers makes up for the more routine facts of how and why to clear the pond of dead stems in the off-season, when to bail out the water, and when to reinforce the banks for best growing. When starting out, Linh and her parents didn’t know much about lotus farming. They just did it to produce flowers for themselves

and a few relatives. “Then many women started to come who were interested in buying lotus. They were people who were already making lotus tea so we picked up the tea making techniques from them.”

Best of the Bunch Linh has come a long way since those early days, and thanks to her attention to detail, her family’s plot of pond land and tea stall are rumoured to be of the best around. Linh’s field of expertise would seem to reside within these pond waters, right down to the three kinds of small fish that are permitted to stay due to the size of their teeth. And while these waters take up an impressive 2,000sqm, the distance is by no means as far as her international tea-drinking patrons have travelled. This modesty is palpable in the way that Linh brushes away compliments and perches on the balls of her feet during the interview, as if ready to rush away if she is needed for something more important than talking about herself. However, as she holds one fully blossomed flower close to my face for a more intimate inspection, the miniature universe that unfolds from the centre of the lotus would seem to offer a different kind of exploration and travel. It is within this universe that Linh has learned to manoeuvre with fluency and grace. “People can’t imagine how you navigate throughout the pond. It looks [very dense], but actually there is a pathway to go on so that you don’t destroy the flowers.” A trip to the lotus pond, particularly the one facing a giant wheel that carries people round and round, up and down, inevitably incites quiet reflective thoughts for those who stop for a cup of tea and a chat. For Linh, her work is wrapped up in providing this peace for others, though it’s not necessarily a peaceful job. She describes her life as hard, but also feels that she is at least “doing something good for society”. And who would argue with that?

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TIME & SPACE

Pipe Dreams The neglected waterworks of one downtown residential highrise are causing all manner of problems for its inhabitants. Douglas Pyper investigates. Photos by Francis Roux

he courtyard of apartment block 2C on Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem, hums. Entering feels like stepping into a ship’s hull as the vibrations of rapidly turning gyros fill your ears. Ironically, among the reverberations is the rush of running water, ironic because this seemingly idyllic apartment block has a water shortage. Built in 1989, a stone’s throw from Hanoi Opera House, the building’s design

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had inherent failings regarding the water system. Both the connection from the water factory to the well, and the pumping system to get the water up to people’s houses, have never worked. That explains the humming sound. The apartment block’s courtyard is home to a cage containing a maze of water pumps, all working away in unison. Below, they are connected to a well that the residents paid to have dug when the original became

too polluted. Fanning out from pumps is a dizzying jungle of pipes. At the well, where they are thickest, the pipes resemble the roots of bamboo. They crawl in parallel directions following the balconies and vertically up the corners of the courtyard, always taking the path of least resistance, like light-hungry creepers.

Ingenuity Minh Chi runs an electrical repair shop on

the third floor of the apartment block. He was one of the first tenants and was part of the group who built the network of pipes in 1993. He explains how each of the 100 apartments has their own pipe coming from the grid of communal pipes. Some houses have two or three because when one breaks, they just build a completely new pipe and don’t bother to take away the old one. Each house sets up and repairs their pipes themselves, learning through necessity and practise. Minh Chi studied how to repair electrical equipment in Germany but, like all the other residents, has no plumbing background or education. “At first we spent a lot of time trying to repair the pumps because nobody had any experience of fixing them,” he explains. “We had to work it out ourselves. It started with a couple of houses making their own system and everybody learning from each other.” Such resourcefulness and ingenuity is

visible every day on the streets of Hanoi. It’s the reason why your motorbike may often be fixed with whatever comes to hand, be it a hammer or the foil wrapper of a packet of crisps. But of course, it’s also the reason why everything breaks. “It’s not smart,” says Chi. “It’s completely wrong! The west does things properly. What we’ve done isn’t an improvement, it’s a step backwards!”

Responsibility When the residents first realised that their new homes were faulty there was no one to blame. Minh Chi says they argued and blamed each other before getting on with finding a solution as it became clear that nobody was going to take responsibility for this communal problem. More than 20 years later the situation hasn’t moved on. A housing committee made up of residents was given a quote to install a new system but the cost is beyond their means.

A woman in her mid-40s has a stall selling crisps and ice tea at the entrance to the apartment block. “It’s been in newspapers and on TV,” she complains, “but still the water can’t get up to the houses. All day people come and take photos […] we’ve still got a water shortage.” An old man is wandering around happily holding his granddaughter. He has no doubts about the future of the issue. “We’ve been talking about it forever, but nothing happens,” he says. “The people in charge aren’t doing anything, each house has to sort it out privately.” The predicament of the residents and the sight of the jungle of pipes brings to mind the Vietnamese saying ‘cha chung, khong ai khoc’ (‘nobody cries at the death of the communal father’), which essentially means something very visible on every street in Vietnam’s capital: when it’s nobody’s responsibility, nobody cares.

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LEISURE

The Vertical Challenge More than just Vietnam’s tallest building, Hanoi’s Landmark 72 Tower is soon to play host to one of the most gruelling races on earth. Kaitlin Rees ﬁnds out what it takes to make it to the top

n 1492, Christopher Columbus proclaimed the world to be round. In 2005, Thomas Friedman argued it now to be flat. Uploading, outsourcing, and offshoring in this globalised age, Friedman said, has fundamentally changed the landscape of our modern world. Though our earth may no longer be as round as it was 500 years ago, it is by no means flat. Take for instance, Landmark 72 Tower in Hanoi. Have you seen it? It’s really tall. The tallest in Vietnam. It’s got 1,914 stairs. Take that Thomas. Though it’s probably the case that soaring buildings all over the world are further evidence of our globalised, ‘flat’ earth, a few of these modern day monuments are being re-imagined with activities far removed from the typical financial endeavours associated with skyscrapers. On Sep. 30, over 500 runners will compete in a race from the bottom to the top of Hanoi’s Landmark 72 Tower. And these runners will in fact be RUNNING.

Survival of the Fittest? Running up the steps of a skyscraper could seem a bit puzzling. What does it mean? Is it a statement about the return of physicality to a world that has become increasingly digital? Is it symbolic of a post-colonial conquering of the new frontiers of sky? Is it because someone lost a bet? Is it for buns of steel? The race marks Hanoi’s entrance into the club of other cities with skyscrapers up which people run. The Vertical World Circuit (VWC) as it is called, includes New York, London, Basel, Berlin, Taipei, Milan, Singapore, and Sao Paulo. “Vertical races”, the organisers say, have been around since the 1970s (but probably before that if you count social climbing). Stair-climbing clubs can currently be found across North America, Europe and Asia, with professional stair-climbers training yearround to be the first to reach the top of some

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of the world’s tallest buildings. Though a relatively new sport, fitness enthusiasts are stepping up, especially those intrigued by the different urban settings that it can bring them, as well as those who enjoy the fact that walking uphill, compared to the same exercise on flat ground, consumes up to 10 times more calories.

Director of the event, David Shin, believes it is. “One of the main objectives of the Landmark 72 Vertical Run is to promote Hanoi as a leading destination for competitive sports, business and tourism,” he explains. “And as the event is being held in Vietnam’s tallest building, it will naturally attract significant attention overseas.” And, dear reader, your attention too. Both amateur and elite athletes are expected to turn out on Sep. 30 at the foot of Vietnam’s tallest building. Elite participants in this year’s inaugural event in Hanoi include reigning world champions, Thomas Dold and Valentina Belotti. Included in the amateur category will be Word magazine’s own managing and deputy chief editors, Debbie Clare and John Thornton. You, too, can take part in this event, to climb stairs like you’ve never climbed them before, with a purpose that few in the world have had. You, too, can have buns of steel and scream “King of the world!” as you ascend the one thousandth nine hundredth and fourteenth step. Online registration is open now and the fee is VND300,000. Prize money totalling VND105,000,000 will be divided and awarded to the first three male and female overall winners with the fastest times. What will happen after you register is a lot of self-affirming goal setting, training and probably a little anxiety. On race day you’ll toe the first step with a pack of runners, equipped with a timing chip, and move with beauty, grace, and poise Landmark 72 all the way to the top. That, or you’ll sweat, pant and heave your Sky High quivering limbs to the finishing line. Either A skyscraper is defined as having 100 metres way, you’ll most likely reach the top about or more of vertical climb at a 33 percent 20 to 25 minutes later. If you are elite, you incline. Like hiking up a mountain, but with may get there in 10. fewer bugs and chances of getting lost, stair To register for the race, visit www. climbing requires strength, endurance, and a landmark72run.com, and to read up more about touch of faith that the view is worth it. vertical running go to www.verticalrunning.org

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Tiêng viêt THỰC KHÁCH BÍ ẨN / ĐẤT LIỀN VÀ BIỂN CẢ

THUC KHÁCH BÍ ÂN

Tháng này, thực khách của chúng tôi lại thưởng thức pizza, mì ống, bánh sô-cô-la, bánh mì kẹp, bò ra-gu, cá ngừ cuộn và nhiều món khác, và vẫn sống xót để kể chuyện cho chúng ta nghe.

Zest Bistro 5 TÔN ĐỨC THẮNG, Q1. ĐT: 3911 5599 NOÁI VÏÌ TÑNH THÊÍM MYÄ, ZEST KHÖNG giöëng bêët cûá nhaâ haâng naâo maâ töi àaä gheá qua úã Saâi Goân, thiïët kïë pha tröån giûäa kho cöng nghiïåp Bùæc Myä (gaåch xêy tûúâng àöi maâu trùæng vöi, truåc xaâ àúä vaâ cöåt bùçng kim loaåi, trêìn nhaâ cao) vaâ möåt cùn biïåt thûå kiïíu Bùæc Êu (göî moãng öëp tûúâng), taåo nïn möåt khöng gian hoaân toaân múã röång, maát rûúåi vaâ thoaáng. Sûå phaá caách kyâ laå àûúåc cho vaâo bùçng nhûäng bûác tranh tuyïn truyïìn trïn tûúâng khöng keám phêìn àöåc àaáo, thïm vaâo möåt chuát caãm giaác haâo nhoaáng cho khöng khñ xung quanh. Chuáng töi goåi moán tûâ hai thûåc àún chñnh duâng cho caã ngaây vaâ thûåc àún chó moán ùn töëi. Moán khai võ (goåi tûâ thûåc àún töëi) vaâ mêëy moán chñnh àïën cuâng luác vaâ kõp thúâi. Chuáng töi bùæt àêìu vúái sushi caá ngûâ cay gioân cuöån vaâ sashimi thõt boâ cuâng vúái nûúác söët wasabi ngoåt. Caã hai moán àïìu tinh tïë, taåo nïn êën tûúång lúán vaâ töët nhêët cuãa bûäa töëi. Nûãa taá caá ngûâ cuöån àûúåc boåc trong möåt khöëi

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mïìm, lúáp böåt mang võ trung lêåp, cho pheáp võ tûúi ngon toãa saáng, trong khi àoá, nhûäng miïëng thõt boâ moãng nhû giêëy, mïìm maåi àûúåc trònh baây theo phong caách carpaccio àûúåc nêëu chñn vûâa phaãi, ngon miïång. Hûúng võ tûå nhiïn thêåt àeåp, tuy nhiïn, möåt khi chêëm vaâo nûúác söët wasabi sêîm maâu àêåm àaâ, moán naây trúã nïn dûä döåi, thöng muäi vúái sûå cay nöìng maånh meä nhûng thuá võ. Moán chñnh cuãa chuáng töi bao göìm moán boâ ra-gu vaâ croque madame. Khi moán coân noáng vaâ nhiïìu, töi nhêån thêëy moán boâ ragu húi dai. Ði cuâng vúái cúm, àem laåi möåt chuát phaá caách mang tñnh Chêu AÁ úã moán àêåm chêët Chêu Êu naây, nûúác söët beáo vaâ höîn húåp cay nöìng naây coá àöå sïåt vûâa phaãi, tuy nhiïn, àöëi vúái töi, moán naây thiïëu yïëu töë ngaåc nhiïn cuãa moán khai võ. Moán ngon, nhûng khöng àùåc biïåt. Tûúng tûå, moán baánh mò keåp kiïíu Phaáp, vúái khoai têy chiïn gioân moãng maâu vaâng oáng ngon tuyïåt, coá rêët nhiïìu thûá hêëp dêîn,

tûâ xaâ-laách vaâ rau cuã tûúi ngon bïn trong àïën loâng àoã mõn maâng nhû kem cuãa trûáng chiïn. Tuy nhiïn, viïåc thiïëu nûúác söët beáchamel (möåt thaânh phêìn quan troång) àaä laâm moán mêët ài võ ngon thêåt sûå cuãa noá. Caác moán traáng miïång àûúåc cho laâ khaá ngoaån GIÁ muåc. Nùçm trong ly martini, moán (tiïëng CÁ NGỪ CUỘN 88,000 ĐỒNG YÁ coá nghôa laâ "chòm") laâ möåt moán thûác uöëng SASHIMI BÒ laâm tûâ caâ phï vúái hai 105,000 ĐỒNG viïn kem hûúng vani BÒ RA-GU nhoã àûúåc phuã búãi lúáp 125,000 ĐỒNG caâ phï espresso noáng. CROQUE MADAME Noá maånh nhûng mûúåt 88,000 ĐỒNG vaâ nïn laâ moán ùn nhanh daânh cho nhûäng AFFOGATO 65,000 ĐỒNG ngûúâi yïu caâ phï. Giúâ àêy, nhêån àõnh sau coá BÁNH SÔ-CÔ-LA leä gùåp phaãi nhûäng thaái MỀM 66,000 ĐỒNG àöå hoaâi nghi, nhûng baánh sö-cö-la mïìm cuãa NHÂN XÉT Zest coá thïí laâ ngon nhêët thaânh phöë. Baánh chùæc vaâ kïët cêëu mïìm nhû baánh pudding, khöng quaá beáo hay ngoåt, vaâ tan chaãy nheå nhaâng trong miïång. Phêìn baánh khöng lúán, nhûng àuáng theo möåt cêu noái: "laâm cho hoå muöën nhiïìu hún".

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Ciao Bella 11 ĐÔNG DU, Q1. ĐT: 3822 3329 KHI TRÏN ÀÛÚÂNG ÀÏËN, TÖI MONG tröng thêëy möåt nhaâ haâng YÁ kiïíu New York, röìi nhûäng hònh aãnh ùn uöëng öìn aâo tûâ phim biïíu tûúång mafia Goodfellas nùm 1990 cuãa Martin Scorsese nhanh choáng xuêët hiïån trong àêìu töi. Tuy nhiïn, Ciao Bella, vúái nhiïìu bûác aãnh trùæng àen cuãa caác nûä diïîn viïn Hollywood àûúåc treo trïn bûác tûúâng gaåch khöng tö, nhaâ haâng khaác xa vúái nhûäng hònh mêîu àêåm chêët xaä höåi àen àûúåc thïí hiïån trïn maân baåc. Nhaåc cuãa nhoám Rat Pack (göìm Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis, Jr., Peter Lawford, vaâ Joey Bishop) vêîn ngên nga àêu àêy, nhûng trong nhaâ haâng nhiïìu têìng àeåp laå naây khöng coá boáng daáng möåt tïn cûúáp hay töåi phaåm úã giûäa nhûäng chiïëc baân àöët nïën, khöng khñ thên mêåt. Khi chuáng töi vaâo chöî, cö phuåc vuå niïìm núã chaâo àoán vúái möåt ly Prosecco tuyïåt haão chûáa nhûäng laát dêu. Möåt gioã baánh mò nhanh choáng àûúåc mang ra cuâng vúái khay ba ngùn chûáa giêëm thúm cuâng huáng têy vaâ laá hûúng thaão, àinh hûúng xaâo toãi, vaâ àêåu trùæng vúái laá hûúng thaão vaâ nûúác cöët chanh. Möîi thûá àïìu àún giaãn nhûng laâ moán tiïìn khai võ thúm lûâng, giöëng nhû caác moán àûúåc phuåc vuå trong quaán ùn gia àònh YÁ trïn khùæp Têy Êu. Vúái mong muöën taåo traãi nghiïåm tuyïåt nhêët, chuáng töi goåi moán khai võ piatti, mò öëng vaâ pizza. Moán involtini di melanzane (caâ

tñm nûúáng nhöìi phö mai dï vaâ rau thúm vúái söët caâ chua) àûúåc mang ra àêìu tiïn. Giöëng hai öëng mò cannelloni nhoã, caâ tñm àûúåc nûúáng hoaân haão, caác vïåt àen àïìu vaâ sûå àöíi maâu nheå cuãa cuöëng laá laâ möåt dêëu hiïåu töët. Chûa bao giúâ laâ ngûúâi yïu thñch phö mai dï ngêëu muâi, nhûng töi vui veã ngaåc nhiïn vúái kïët cêëu mïìm mõn cuãa noá, trong khi söët caâ chua mang möåt hûúng võ nheå nhaâng tinh tïë tuyïåt vúâi. Moán tiïëp theo laâ pizza margarita. Göìm àún giaãn chó phö mai mozzarella, caâ chua vaâ huáng quïë, bêët cûá nhaâ haâng YÁ naâo nöíi tiïëng vïì pizza nïn nùæm roä thaânh phêìn cú baãn nhêët cuãa moán naây. Vaâ trïn hïët, Ciao Bella laâm chñnh xaác nhû thïë. Lúáp voã baánh moãng thò gioân ruåm hoaân haão, àem möåt nïìn taãng vûäng chùæc cho caác thaânh phêìn coân laåi, gêy êën tûúång maånh. Hún hïët, àêy laâ loaåi pizza rau muâi thúm vö cuâng, võ ngoåt nheå vaâ hûúng the the baåc haâ tinh tïë cuãa huáng quïë laâm cho caãm giaác thiïëu nûúác söët caâ chua. Coá leä noá nïn àûúåc àïí trong loâ lêu thïm khoaãng möåt hai phuát, nhûng noái chung chiïëc baánh naây quaá khö cho súã thñch cuãa töi, mùåc duâ noá vêîn coá nhiïìu thaânh phêìn chêët lûúång. Nûãa phêìn fettuccine salmone (caá höìi hun khoái vaâ toãi têy vúái nûúác söët kem toãi) vaâ maiale alla valdostana (thõt heo vúái phö mai parmesan nhöìi vúái thõt heo muöëi parma vaâ phö mai fontina cheese, nûúác söët nêëm

marsala vúái khoai têy Tuscan vaâ rau xaâo) àïën cuâng luác. Moán àêìu tiïn vûâa beáo vûâa mùån nhûng nheå nhaâng trong buång, trong khi mò chñn àïìu vaâ vûâa. Têët caã thaânh phêìn cêëu thaânh moán sau thò tuyïåt trêìn, khoai têy Tuscan gioân gioân vaâ thúm ngaâo ngaåt, höîn húåp rau xaâo (àêåu haâ lan, caâ-röët, bñ xanh) vúái àêìy bú vaâ toãi, trong khi àoá thõt daây nhûng mïìm, laâ möåt trong nhûäng moán ngon nhêët maâ töi ùn úã nhaâ haâng taåi thaânh phöë naây. Sau cuâng, Ciao Bella coá thïí àûúåc xem laâ möåt trong nhûäng nhaâ haâng GIÁ YÁ ngon nhêët cuãa Saâi CÀ TÍM NƯỚNG Goân. Thêåm chñ nïëu noá 155,000 ĐỒNG coá laâ phiïn baãn New York thêåt sûå. Möåt sûå kïët PIZZA MARGARITA húåp cuãa möåt àöåi nguä 150,000 ĐỒNG nhên viïn thên thiïån vaâ chu àaáo chúâ àúåi khaách, CÁ HỒI HUN KHÓI 110,000 ĐỒNG khöng khñ laäng maån, vaâ chêët lûúång thûåc phêím THỊT HEO VỚI PHÔ khoá tòm thêëy úã bêët cûá núi MAI PARMESAN 310,000 ĐỒNG naâo khaác, noá khöng dïî bõ àaánh baåi. NHÂN XÉT MỖI THANG ĐIỂM CHO THỨC ĂN, TRANG TRÍ VÀ PHỤC VU DỰA THEO THANG ĐIỂM TỪ 0 ĐẾN 15 13 – 15 = đặc biệt đến hoàn hảo 10 – 12.5 = rất tốt đến tuyệt 8 – 9.5 = tốt đến rất tốt 5 – 7.5 = khá tới tốt 0 – 4.5 = kém tới khá BÀI VIẾT NÀY CÓ MỤC ĐÍCH ĐÓNG GÓP XÂY DỰNG TÍCH CỰC

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ĐẤT LIỀN VÀ BIỂN CẢ Trong Trong thế thế giới giới du du lịch lịch tiết tiết kiệm kiệm ngày ngày nay nay với với những những hãng hãng hàng hàng không không đơn đơn giản, giản, mọi mọi thứ thứ trở trở nên nên quá quá dễ dễ dàng dàng và và chỉ chỉ cần cần lên lên một một chiếc chiếc máy máy bay bay hướng hướng đến đến khu khu du du lịch lịch Đông Đông Nam Nam Á. Á. Natalie Natalie Krebs Krebs đã đã có có cuộc cuộc nói nói chuyện chuyện với với vị vị hành hành khách khách ngồi ngồi ở ghế ghế 61 61 (Seat (Seat 61), 61), Mark Mark Smith. Smith.

u lõch bùçng xe lûãa hoùåc phaâ, baån seä thêëy àûúåc núi baån àang ài àïën, khöng giöëng nhû maáy bay, baån bõ keåt cûáng nhû möåt goái haâng vaâ àûúåc cùn dùån laâ ngöìi yïn nhû thïí laâ möåt àûáa treã nghõch ngúåm. Trïn xe lûãa hoùåc phaâ, baån di chuyïín thoaãi maái, nguã trïn giûúâng, ài voâng quanh, àoåc saách, suy tû, ngùæm quang caãnh, noái chuyïån vaâ trao àöíi qua laåi vúái nhûäng haânh khaách khaác" – ngûúâi saáng lêåp seat61.com, Mark Smith cho hay. Tûå nhêån mònh laâ "ngûúâi àaân öng cuãa àûúâng sùæt", Mark rúâi thaânh phöë quï hûúng Oxford cuãa mònh úã Anh àïí bùæt àêìu sûå nghiïåp àûúâng sùæt úã vuâng nöng thön Kent. anh àaä laâm úã nhiïìu võ trñ khaác nhau, vaâ cuöëi cuâng kïët thuác nhû laâ möåt chuyïn viïn cuãa Anh vïì veá taâu cho Súã Giao Thöng Vêån Taãi úã Luên Ðön. Nùm 2001, anh cho ra trang seat61.com. Laâ núi töíng húåp daânh cho nhûäng ai tòm kiïëm thöng tin du lõch bùçng xe lûãa hay phaâ, seat61.com liïåt kï lõch trònh taâu lûãa, giaá veá vaâ nhûäng lúâi khuyïn chung chung cho viïåc du lõch bùçng taâu lûãa àïën rêët nhiïìu nûúác trïn saáu chêu luåc. Triïët lyá cuãa Mark cho trang maång chia laâm hai muåc tiïu – àêìu tiïn laâ giuáp moåi ngûúâi dïî daâng tòm kiïëm thöng tin vïì viïåc thay thïë du lõch bùçng maáy bay, hai laâ àïí truyïìn caãm hûáng cho moåi ngûúâi ài du lõch xa, khöng bùçng maáy bay. "Du lõch laâ nhûäng cuöåc haânh trònh, noá khöng hùèn chó laâ nhûäng àiïím àïën – baån coá thïí seä cho rùçng noá giöëng thûác ùn, vïì hûúng võ vaâ khöng chó giuáp baån töìn taåi" – anh tiïëp tuåc.

Anh so saánh nhû thïë naâo vïì xe lûãa noái chung vaâ du lõch bùçng xe lûãa úã Viïåt Nam vúái phêìn coân laåi cuãa thïë giúái? Noái vïì sûå hiïån àaåi vaâ thoaãi maái – chuáng ta àang noái vïì Ðöng Nam AÁ, khöng phaãi Chêu Êu – töi phaãi cho rùçng xe lûãa SE maáy laånh cuãa Ðûúâng Sùæt Viïåt Nam töët hún rêët nhiïìu xe lûãa úã ÊËn Ðöå, nhûng khöng töët bùçng úã Thaái Lan. Tuy nhiïn, chuáng vêîn laâ caách lyá tûúãng àïí ài àêy àoá, xem Viïåt Nam úã cêëp àûúâng böå. Nhûäng quan niïåm sai lêìm phöí biïën maâ moåi ngûúâi coá vïì du lõch xe lûãa taåi Viïåt Nam laâ gò? Ðoá têët caã laâ vïì sûå kyâ voång. Bêët kyâ khaách du lõch daây daån naâo àaä tûâng gheá Chêu AÁ hay Chêu Phi seä nhêån thêëy xe lûãa Viïåt Nam laâ caách hay àïí ài àêy àoá. Tuy nhiïn, nhûäng

Anh yïu thñch phêìn naâo khi du lõch tûâ Bùæc xuöëng Nam bùçng xe lûãa úã Viïåt Nam? Khu vûåc búâ biïín giûäa Huïë vaâ Ðaâ Nùéng laâ möåt trong nhûäng khu coá quang caãnh dïî daâng cuãa àûúâng sùæt úã Ðöng Nam AÁ. Xe lûãa uöën lûúån nhû rùæn tûâ vaách àaá naây àïën vaách àaá khaác vúái biïín soáng vöî êìm êìm lïn àaá úã bïn dûúái, vûúåt qua nhûäng àónh nuái cao nhêët thöng qua haâng loaåt nhûäng àûúâng hêìm maâ möîi hêìm àïìu coá möåt ngûúâi canh gaác cêìm cúâ vaâng àûáng úã chöî löëi vaâo. Röìi noá tiïën sêu vaâo àêët liïìn xuyïn qua thung luäng cêy cöëi dêìy àùåc àïën àeâo Haãi Vên. Tuyïåt vúâi! Coá nhûäng thay àöíi gò úã àêët nûúác naây lêîn àûúâng sùæt maâ anh thêëy so vúái lêìn àêìu tiïn àïën Viïåt Nam? Töi àïën Viïåt Nam lêìn àêìu tiïn nùm 1999, tûâ àoá àïën nay caã chêët lûúång lêîn söë lûúång xe lûãa àaä tùng àaáng kïí. Caã nûúác àûúåc àõnh hûúáng du lõch nhiïìu hún so vúái ngaây xûa, vaâ úã Haâ Nöåi vaâ Thaânh Phöë Höì Chñ Minh giúâ àêy möîi ngûúâi ài xe àaåp trûúác àêy giúâ coá xe gùæn maáy, coân nhûäng ngûúâi ài xe maáy trûúác àêy giúâ coá xe húi.

Hạng Nhất Vaâo thaáng 9 nùm 2007, Mark boã viïåc vaâ bùæt àêìu têåp trung laâm trang maång toaân thúâi gian – möåt bûúác ài maâ anh khöng hïì höëi tiïëc. Theo Mark, nöî lûåc àïí giûä trang maång hoaåt àöång thuá võ hún rêët nhiïìu so vúái "cöng viïåc thêåt sûå". Tuy nhiïn, 12 nùm, hai cuöën saách vaâ kïë hoaåch loaåt phim truyïìn hònh sau àoá, Mark vêîn cho rùçng öng àaä khöng tin rùçng trang maång coá thïí phaát triïín lúán nhû thïë naây. "Noá giöëng nhû laâ möåt tiïëng theát trong hoang àõa, vaâ töi àaä khöng tröng chúâ möåt ai àoá àoåc noá. Vaâ giúâ àêy noá coá hún möåt triïåu lûúåt truy cêåp möîi thaáng." – anh giaãi thñch. Nhiïåt huyïët du lõch bùçng xe lûãa úã Viïåt Nam cuãa anh hiïín nhiïn thïí hiïån qua söë lûúång thöng tin röång lúán coá trïn maång. Trang Viïåt Nam luön coá "10 núi nïn tham quan nhêët", liïåt kï moåi thûá baån cêìn àïí ài tûâ Laâo Cai àïën Ðöìng Bùçng Söng Cûãu Long. Töi hoãi Mark möåt vaâi cêu hoãi vïì kinh nghiïåm cuãa mònh khi du lõch bùçng xe lûãa úã Viïåt Nam.

gúä möåt vaâi ngûúâi Viïåt Nam bùçng caách naây. Móa mai thay, nhûäng khaách du lõch tûúng tûå seä vui veã chia seã möåt khoang vúái 400 ngûúâi khaác àang cöë gùæng nguã chêåp chúân trïn ghïë, cuâi choã àuång nhau, àêìu göëi co laåi sau lûng ngûúâi khaác, trïn chuyïën bay àïën Viïåt Vam, búãi vò àoá laâ nhûäng gò hoå àûúåc taác àöång vaâ nghô laâ "bònh thûúâng"!

khaách du lõch Têy trûúác àêy chûa bao giúâ ra khoãi nûúác cuãa hoå, vaâ kyâ voång nhòn ngùæm thïë giúái tûâ nhûäng haäng haâng khöng phûúng Têy, nhûäng chuyïën xe buyát tiïu chuêín Têy vaâ nhûäng daäy khaách saån Têy seä thêëy chuáng ghï ghï, thò... Ðöng Nam AÁ maâ. Chuáng laâ nhûäng ngûúâi Chêu AÁ thêåt sûå, têët nhiïn, khöng phaãi "dên du lõch Chêu AÁ", laâ möåt phûúng tiïån di chuyïín thêåt sûå vaâ khöng phaãi laâ cú súã vêåt chêët du lõch sang troång – nhûng àiïím mêëu chöët khi sûã duång chuáng laâ nïn trúã thaânh möåt ngûúâi tham gia, chûá khöng chó laâ möåt khaán giaã cuãa àêët nûúác baån gheá thùm. Nïëu àiïìu àoá laâm cho möåt söë ngûúâi caâng chaåy gêëp àïën maáy bay, thò àoá thêåt sûå àaáng xêëu höí, nhûäng chuyïën ài úã Viïåt Nam cuäng nhiïìu traãi nghiïåm nhû quang caãnh thaânh phöë. Chia seã möåt buöìng böën giûúâng cuäng khoá maâ laâ traãi nghiïåm phûúng Têy khi noá thêåt sûå khöng phaãi laâ möåt vêën àïì vaâ thêåm chñ cuäng laâ möåt phêìn traãi nghiïåm khaác, baån cuäng coá thïí gùåp

Anh thêëy sûå qua laåi giûäa ngûúâi nûúác ngoaâi vaâ dên àõa phûúng trïn xe lûãa nhû thïë naâo? Trïn möåt chuyïën xe du lõch tûâ Laâo Cai àïën Sapa, baån coá veã seä chia seã noái chuyïån vúái ngûúâi Têy nhiïìu hún ngûúâi Viïåt Nam, nhûng trïn chuyïën xe lûãa giûäa Haâ Nöåi, Huïë, Ðaâ Nùéng vaâ Thaânh Phöë Höì Chñ Minh, baån seä úã vúái ngûúâi Viïåt nhiïìu hún. Töi àaä úã chung buöìng böën giûúâng mïìm vúái möåt gia àònh Viïåt Nam, luön thuá võ khi nhòn thêëy caách nhûäng ngûúâi söëng – vaâ hoå àuáng laâ "söëng" trïn xe lûãa, hoå taåo khöng gian nhû hoå àang úã nhaâ! Moán laå thûúâng nhêët maâ anh coá cú höåi ùn khi du lõch bùçng xe lûãa úã Viïåt Nam vaâ trïn toaân thïë giúái? Töi luön luön höëi tiïëc laâ khöng àuã cam àaãm àïí thûã moán daái gaâ xaâo úã nhaâ haâng Boâ Tuâng Xeão tuyïåt vúâi (vaâ reã) úã Saâi Goân. Töi àaä khöng tûúãng tûúång àûúåc rùçng laâ caái àôa lúán nhû thïë, vaâ tûâ khi àoá töi luön tûå hoãi laâ caái moán àoá laâ göìm nhiïìu daái gaâ, hay chó möåt caái duy nhêët, nhûng trònh baây àeåp mùæt. Nùm ngoaái, töi quay trúã laåi Viïåt Nam, vaâ cuäng quay laåi nhaâ haâng àoá, nhûng buöìn thay caái thûåc àún giúâ àêy hïët coân hêëp dêîn nûäa röìi.

July 2012 Word | 151

The Final Say DEAD HEAT / ON THE STOOL

MEET THE PARENTS We at Word have gratuitously waxed lyrical on how to get a girl. We’ve even played cupid with our annual singles issues. But what comes next when you’ve made the match and have to meet the parents? One brave man ﬁnds out

ou have been living in Ho Chi Minh City for a few months and the woman you’ve been dating for much of that time makes what at first seems a fairly innocuous statement: “I want you to meet my parents.” In the west, meeting the parents simply means someone is proud to show you off to their folks. But here it can mean a definitive acceleration of the relationship. Gentlemen, be afraid. As one of my closest friends here warned me: “What? Meet the parents? Be careful. You’re halfway to the altar!” A (female) Vietnamese friend only deepened the apprehension: “If you take a guy to meet your parents, they will think the two of you are serious.” Having spontaneously said “sure” (it’s hard not to when you’re stretched out on the sofa watching a corny romantic comedy, three glasses into a bottle of Prosecco!), I’m forced to turn procrastination into something of an art form. “Let’s wait until after the FA Cup final, then I’ll have something to talk to your dad about.” “But he cheers for ManU, not Chelsea.” “Hey, don’t get me wrong, I’m really looking forward to it, but didn’t you say your sister was visiting next week? Perhaps you can introduce me to her as a trial run?”

The Training A month later, Sunday evening at an outdoor barbecue restaurant is the rehearsal date. Well, actually nothing like a date. “Don’t sit too close to me,” is Ngoc’s

152 | Word July 2012

first piece of advice in what turns out to be a half day lecture complete with revision questions at the end. “Don’t hold my hand. And whatever you do, don’t kiss me!” “Ok,” I nod. “Any particular reason?” “Whatever they see us doing in front of them, they’ll assume we’re doing far more when they can’t see us.” “But we are.” “Yes, but we pretend we’re not. Every parent assumes their daughter is a virgin until they get married, unless they get married because she is pregnant.” We’re meeting in a restaurant because that’s what you do in Ho Chi Minh City, apparently. If we were in the village, where Ngoc’s grandparents come from, we’d be meeting in their home. But it is an illusion to consider that neutral territory when meeting the parents of a Vietnamese woman almost a generation younger than you. “Next thing: When you first meet Dad, you nod and bow a little. Then you shake hands. You take my father’s hand in both your hands.” “Ok. Any special reason for this?” She reaches for my cheek and squeezes it a little too firmly. “Because younger people have to respect their elders.” “What do I call him? Hung?” Hung is Ngoc’s father’s name, so it seems logical. “No. You should call him Chu.” “Chu?” “Yes, because his name is only for someone older than him to call him — like my grandfather or my grandmother. If you call him by his name he will think you do not respect him.”

“And your mother?” “Go” “Go? As in opposite to stop?” “No, Go — Spelt C-Ô. But you pronounce it like go.” Right. This seems like an ominous instruction. It’s all too possible that the end of the night could be memorable for a very large figurative STOP sign appearing out of nowhere. Securing father’s blessing for a new boyfriend is incredibly important for traditional reasons, regardless of how the relationship has progressed until then. No matter how much she adores you, a disappointed dad could mean a STOP sign. I have a friend whose counsel I sought before the meet, whose story was different to any other I’d heard. “The oddest issue with Phuong's parents was that they didn't care where I came from, how much I earned, what I believed, whether or not I was already married,” he explained. “But when she asked her dad if she could be my ‘official girlfriend’ he was reluctant to give his consent on the grounds that I was a vegetarian!” Ngoc is talking again... “Next thing…” “Yes?” “When we start to eat, you will say, ‘Moi co chu dung’. Because they will not understand English. It means ‘please eat’ — it’s a mark of respect for them to start eating first. Do not eat before they do.” Ok, sounds simple enough. “Over dinner he will ask how we met even though he knows it already.” I figure she hasn’t told him about the

seven cocktails at Blanchy’s Tash at 2am one Saturday morning, so I ask, “What do we tell them?” “We met at Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf.” “Right. But you don’t drink coffee.” “But I was using the free Wi-Fi and drinking iced tea.” “Ok. Which one?” “Which iced tea?” “No. Which Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf?” “The one opposite Notre Dame Cathedral.” “You’ve already told them this?” “Yes, of course...” How could I be so naive to think otherwise.

The Meeting We arrive at the restaurant early. I’m desperate for a nerve-easing glass of red wine. “Will he drink wine?” “No, because he is driving. But he might have a beer.” “Will he think it is bad if I drink wine?” “Hmm… No probably not. But just a glass.” I nod. “Can I order one now?” I’ve just completed the second when Hung and Vy arrive. Vy’s broad smile is charming and warm and I guiltily note she is just as attractive as her daughter. Hung bears the smile of someone about to assassinate me, but maybe that’s the way he smiles all the time — he does work in real estate, after all. The greetings go exactly as schooled. I remember to use both hands, call Hung Chu and Vy Co. We’re seated and I ask if they’d like a drink. An exchange between father and daughter is quickly translated. “Dad would like a glass of wine, too.” I try not to notice as Hung drops two ice cubes into his wine. We order food and then commence with the inevitable questions. “How long have you lived in Vietnam?” is first even though they obviously know all these details already. “What do you do here? Do you like it here? Do you love children?” I barely suppress choking on my wine. Is it my imagination, or are those church bells ringing in the background? “Well, as yet I do not have any experience with children,” I reply diplomatically. “But I am sure with the right partner I would enjoy being a father.” The translation is so short I am sure Ngoc has abbreviated my answer to “Yes.” “Do you like Vietnamese girls?” Beware the loaded question! Yes, might make me sound like a player; no is a slight on their daughter, surely, “I think Vietnamese women are very beautiful, but it is hard to find one who also has a good heart like your daughter,” is the best medium of the two.

Ngoc nearly chokes on her iced tea and the look she gives me shows she’s not clear if I’m flattering her or simply a master in the art of bullsh*t. Then she remembers to translate. He asks another question, appearing even more serious if that was possible. Ngoc turns to me: “He asks if you’ve been married before.” I fix her with a bemused stare. This is one question we forgot to rehearse. “Yes, of course.” I know I’ve dumped her in it, but she’s the best one to navigate us out of this fjord. It takes a lot more than three words for her to translate mine. Later I ask what she said. “I said you got married and then divorced. When you divorced you kept contact with her but you don’t fight. I told them you did not have children.” Is that wise, I muse. I’d have thought they prefer to think I had no contact with my ex at all, especially since we didn’t have children. “In Vietnam when we divorce we don’t have contact with our exes. But foreigners usually keep contact. So I want them to think you’re a normal foreigner.” She continues: “They asked why you did not have children.” Ahh, I think... fear of an impotent sonin-law... “So what did you tell them?” “I blamed your ex.” Works for me! Of course, with Ngoc translating there’s a fairly secure safety net in place so soon the nervousness eases and I’m bold enough to commiserate about ManU failing to collect the Premier League trophy, even managing not to grit my teeth as I talk so insincerely. He pauses and I sense an ice cold stare. Oh dear, I’ve screwed up. Did he see through the kids explanation? Was it the ex? Has he spied the tattoo not quite hidden beneath my watch strap? Then Hung says something in fluent Vietnamese to Ngoc. It has the tone of “Which sewer did you drag this guy from?” It seems like an age before Ngoc turns and translates for me with a beaming smile: “He says he likes you.”

“Do you like Vietnamese girls?” Beware the loaded question! Yes, might make me sound like a player; no is a slight on their daughter"

JJu July uly ly 2 2012 012 Wo 01 Word W orrd d | 15 1153 53

CRIME FICTION SERIAL

Dead Heat In our ﬁrst installment of serialised original crime ﬁction by English author Rob Marsh, a murder is committed on Vietnamese soil and only one detective can solve the mystery. But can he bury his past to help a pleading mother? Illustration by Henry Fenton

Episode 1: An Absurd Request

time for him. He would recall knowing her, would remember the days they spent together, but had little memory of the act itself. It was as if someone else had done the slaying. He knew only that she was dead, he was alive and that was the natural order of things. After his moment of quiet contemplation he removed the woman's ring as a keepsake then took hold of her arms and dragged her back into the garden. Then he walked into the house and switched on the lights, began making preparations. Eventually he returned to the body and dressed the young woman in a plastic rain jacket. He hefted her easily onto his shoulder and carried her into the garage where he strapped her onto his motorcycle, arms around his chest, then set out for District 1.

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam The two figures stood side-by-side on the riverbank gazing out across the black sheet of water. The man was tall and blond, powerfully built; the woman tiny by comparison, slim and dark-eyed. “You’re not the same any more,” the woman said. A barge loaded with timber chugged slowly past, its deck lights twinkling. “No, I’m not,” he agreed. “This isn’t what you promised me.” For a moment he considered her words, weighing up his options. “Yes, that’s true,” he said then swung around, bringing out the knife. He slashed at her throat, first one way then the other: a glinting figure of eight in the air. Like slicing through melon, he thought: hard skin, soft flesh. Easy. She cast a surprised glance at the blood that was pouring down her front and took a hesitant pace forward, but the effort seemed to tire her and she sat down on the ground. As she slid onto her side there was movement in the grasses nearby as something small scurried away from the sound. The man looked on with detachment until the twitching had stopped then removed his spectacles to clean them on his shirt. His moment of outrage had passed. Now the world tripped suddenly into slow motion and he imagined himself lying there as if he had committed some unpardonable sin and been punished accordingly. Eventually, he knelt next to his victim studying the face of the woman. How strangely composed it was, he thought. Already heat was leaving the body and the chilling process was under way. The killing itself was a moment lost in

154 | Word July 2012

Johannesburg, South Africa When the door of Russell Kemp’s office opened he was sitting at his desk considering the long, bleak hours that lay ahead. And even though it was not yet seven in the morning, he had been at work for nearly two hours, moving papers about, looking for something useful to do. His suite of rooms — the managing agent clearly had a sense of humour — consisted of a small, gloomy office with a tiny window that looked down onto a car park, plus a walk-in cupboard. He had no secretary because he couldn’t afford one, and the furnishings in his office were what could best be described as Spartan: a bookcase filled with out-of-date law books and fading box files, some dogeared paperbacks and a street guide to Johannesburg. There was also an ancient wooden desk and scuffed leather office chair (circa 1930), two ‘visitor’ chairs that he had picked up at a house sale and a battered steel filing cabinet. Above the filing cabinet was a Let’s Get Hooked on Health anti-drug poster, one corner flapping. His visitor was an elegant middleaged Asian woman, expensively dressed. Standing behind her in the corridor was a large black man in a dark suit. “My name is Nguyen Cong Hau, Mr Kemp,” the woman said in flawless English. “My husband works at the Vietnamese Embassy in Pretoria. John here is my driver.” Kemp was a tall grey-haired man unshaven and unkempt with dark rings beneath his eyes. His clothes were creased and misshapen: a blue suit jacket over fading denims, a cream shirt un-ironed, and worn black shoes.

“Please take a seat,” he said. She stepped into his office, but John remained standing in the doorway, arms folded. “I require assistance, Mr Kemp,” she said when she had settled herself. “The people my husband spoke to recommended you.” “What people, Ma’am?” he asked. “Someone in the police. My husband says that you have a reputation for… tenacity. Is that right word, Mr Kemp? He says that you investigated a case involving the military some years ago.” Indeed he had. The high point of his career some would say and look what that had gotten him. “What exactly is it that you want from me, Ma’am?” Hearing Kemp’s tone John frowned at him from the doorway. “I want you to find my daughter.” “I don’t think I’m the right man for the job.” “My husband’s already checked up on you. He says that you’re a very experienced detective, though you get mixed reviews: a good investigator is how everyone described you, but unpredictable.” Kemp chose not to comment. “He also said that you lost your own daughter some years ago,” she continued. “Is that true, Mr Kemp?” “Yes.” “Then you know how I feel. That’s why I’m here, because I think you understand what it’s like to lose a child. What was your daughter’s name, Mr Kemp?” “Nicola… Everyone called her Nicky.” Despite himself, Kemp felt a lump in his throat. He couldn’t remember the last time he had said his daughter’s name out aloud. He knew then that he was being drawn into something he wished to avoid, but it was true, he could identify with this woman’s pain, which was why he didn’t want to get involved. “I still don’t think I’m the right man for the job,” he repeated. “My husband and I are quite wealthy, Mr Kemp. Money isn’t an issue, if that’s your concern.” “Money’s not the issue.” She saw the flash of anger in his eyes, made a gesture with her hands. “I’m sorry. I don’t want to offend you.” He shook his head. “You haven’t.” Then, with resignation: “Tell me about your daughter.” She gathered herself, thought about the question for a moment. That was when he saw that she had been crying that morning;

"He hefted her easily onto his shoulder and carried her into the garage where he strapped her onto his motorcycle, arms around his chest, then set out for District 1" that her hands were shaking. “My daughter’s name is Hai Hien. Just over a month ago she flew to Vietnam with her South African boyfriend. After three weeks she stopped calling. A few days ago my other daughter went to look for her, but Hai Hien’s just vanished. I need you to go and find her, Mr Kemp.” “To Vietnam?” He couldn’t keep the incredulity out of his voice. “Yes, to Ho Chi Minh City.” It was an absurd request; impossible. “What about the boyfriend?” “He’s vanished too.” Unable to continue for a moment she pulled a handkerchief from her handbag and used it to dab her eyes. “My husband says you’re a good man, Mr. Kemp,” she said finally. “Are you?” The question took him by surprise. “No, I don’t think I am, Ma’am,” he said with disarming frankness. Remarkably, the answer seemed to comfort her. “Please help me, Mr Kemp,” she said quietly. “Please…” Look out for Episode 2 in our August issue. This is a work of fiction. All names, characters and incidents are either invented or used fictitiously. Rob Marsh is the author of 30 published books (both fiction and non-fiction). He has a special interest in matters crimerelated and is the author of Famous South African Crimes and With Criminal Intent: the changing face of crime in South Africa. He currently lives in Ho Chi Minh City.

July 2012 Word | 155

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156 | Word July 2012

Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 - F3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Q3 - A4, A5, B3, B4, C2, C3, D1, D2, E1 Nguyen Du, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C5, D3, D5 Nguyen Hue, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Nguyen Huu Canh, Q1 - A7, B7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 - C6 Nguyen Son Ha, Q3 - E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 - E7, F7 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 - E5, F4 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 - E4, F4, F5 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 - C2, C3, D2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 - A5, A6, B4, B5, C3, C4, D2, D3, E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Thong, Q3 - B1, C1, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien, Q3 - D1, E2 Nguyen Trai, Q1 - E2, E3, F2 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 - A7, B6 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 - D5 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 - A4 Pasteur, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, D6, E6 Pham Hong Thai, Q1 - E4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1, Q3 - A3, A4, B4, B5 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 - E3, E4, E5, F2, F3 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1 - E1, F1 Phan Boi Chau, Q1 - D5 Phan Chau Trinh, Q1 - D5 Pho Duc Chanh, Q1 - E5, F5, F6 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 - A4, A5 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 - D2, D3, E2 Thai Van Lung, Q1 - B6, C6 Thi Sach, Q1 - C6, C7 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 - D4, D5 Thu Thiem Tuunnel, E7 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 - A6, B6, B7, C7, D7, E7 Ton That Dam, Q1 - D6, E6 Ton That Thiep, Q1 - D6 Ton That Tung, Q1 - E2 Tran Cao Van, Q1 - A5, B4 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 - E4, E5, F3, F4 Tran Quoc Thao, Q3 - A1, A2, B2, B3, C3 Tran Quoc Toan, Q3 - A2, B2 Truong DInh, Q1, Q3 - B1, B2, C2, C3, D3, D4, E4 Truong Quyen, Q3 - A3, A4 Tu Xuong, Q3 - A3, B2, C1 Vo Thi Sau, Q3 - A2, A3, B1, B2, C1 Vo Van Kiet ( East West Highway) - E6, F5, F6 Vo Van Tan, Q3 - B4, C3, C4, D2, E1, E2 Vuon Chuoi, Q3 - D1 Yershin, Q1 - E4, F5

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Alexandre De Rhodes, Q1 - B5, C4 Au Trieu, Q1 - D6, E6 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 - B1, C2, D3 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 - D3, E2, E3 Bui Vien, Q1 - F3, F4 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1, Q3 - C1, D2, D3 Calmette, Q1 - E5, F5 Cao Thang, Q10 - E1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 - B6 Co Bac, Q1 - F4 Cong Huynh, Q1 - E1, E2, F2, F3 De Tham, Q1 - E4, F4 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Q3 - A4, B2, B3, C1, C2, D1 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 - A5, A6 Do Quang Dau, Q1 - F3 Doan Van Bo, Q4 - F6 Dong Du, Q1 - C6, D6 Dong Khoi, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Hai Ba Trung Q1 - A3, A4, B5, C6, C7 Ham Nghi, Q1 - E5, E6, E7 Han Thuyen, Q1 - C5 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 - D6, D7 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 - D6, E6 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3 - C2, D2 Hoang Dieu, Q4 - F6, F7 Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Q1 - C4, D4 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 - D6, E5 Ky Con, Q1 - E4, E5, F5 Ky Dong, Q3 - A1, B1 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 - E5 Le Duan, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C4, C5 Le Lai, Q1 - E3, E4, E5 Le Loi, Q1 - C6, D5, D6 Le Ngo Cat, Q3 - C1, C2 Le Quy Don, Q3 - B2, B3 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 - B6, B7, C5, C6, D4, D5, E4 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 - E4, E5 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 - E3 Luong Huu Khanh, Q1 - E2 Luu Van Lang, Q1 - D5 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 - A1, B1, C1 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 - B6, C5, C6, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 - A4, A5, B5, B6 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 - C6, D6 Me Linh Circle, Q1 - D7 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, E5, E6 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 - D6, D7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 - B2, B3, C2 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 - B7 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 - D4, D5, E4 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 - A6, A7 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 - E5, E5, F4, F5

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{crossword}

Photo of the Month

Answers on page 4

ASIAN-AMERICAN HISTORY 27. “Isn’t that baby adorable!” 29. Hearing organ 14 15 16 30. Full of oneself 17 18 19 31. Do like Monet or Rembrandt 34. Getting older 20 21 22 23 36. Chung who was the first Asian24 26 25 27 28 American to be a nightly news 29 30 31 32 33 anchor for a major network 37. Freud of psychoanalysis 34 35 36 40. Reclined lazily 37 38 39 40 41. Hawaii’s Daniel ____, first 41 42 Japanese-American senator 43 44 45 46 47 42. Ziti, penne or rigatoni 43. Sauce for tortilla chips 48 49 50 51 44. Chimney dirt 52 53 54 55 56 45. To the ____ degree 57 58 59 60 61 48. Lion’s lair 62 63 64 49. ____ and downs 50. Really love 65 66 67 52 Berlin’s land: Abbr. ACROSS 54. Korean-American actor Philip 1. Louisiana's Joseph ____, first Vietnamesewho co-starred in the TV sense “Kung Fu” American congressman 56. One who mistreats others 4. Letter-shaped fastening bars: Hyph. 57. School reunion attendee, for short 10. Dark deli breads 59. 2001-09 labor secretary who was the first 14. 511, in Roman numerals female Asian-American cabinet member: 2wds. 15. With 63-Across, 2011-06 U.S. transportation 62. Ascend secretary who was the first Asian-American 63. See 15-Across cabinet member 64. French for “summer” 16. U.S. president who signed a law to pay 65. Slangy affirmatives $20,000 to each survivor or W.W.II Japanese 66. Person gazing fixedly internment camps 67. The “S” of G.P.S.: Abbr. 17. With 39-Down, mid 10th-century event in which many Chinese immigrated to the U.S.'s DOWN West Coast 1. Foldable music holder: 2wds. 19. Disappear ____ thin air 2. State in which Thelma Buchholdt was the 20. The way things currently stand: 3wds. U.S.’s first female Filipino-American legislator 21. Typing speed abbr. 3. More greasy 23. Space, as between teeth 4. Not Suited 24. ____ shooting (sport using clay targets) 5. Halloween shouts 25. Health resort 6. N.H.L legend Bobby 1

7. Letters after K 8. Homeland of film director Ang Lee 9. Ginger cookie 10. Baseball hitting stat 11. First Chinese student to graduate from a U.S. university (Yale, 1854): 2wds. 12. “Como ____ usted?” (Spanish greeting) 13. Look for things to buy 18. Suffix with Tokyo or Israel 22. Plan, as a route: 2wds. 25. Hourglass filter 26. Animal in a sty 28. “____ make something of it?” 30. Climbing plant 32. German for “never” 33. TV mogul Tumer 34. Get a laugh out of 35. South American country 36. Price 37. Bro’s sibling 38. One ____ million: 2wds. 39. See 17-Across: 2wds. 40. One of the Countries from which immigrant began to arrive in the U.S. after the Vietnam War 42. Mon’s mate 44. Ruminated naturally 45. Light snacks 46. Burlingame ____ (1986 document that encouraged Chinese immigration to the U.S.) 47. People who save the day 50. “Fuzzy Wuzzy was ____ …”: 2wds. 51. French nobleman 52. Washington’s ____ Locke, first ChineseAmerican governor 53. “A Streetcar Named Desire” director Kazan 55. Skirt edges 56. Poker payment 58. Month, in Mexico 60. “Gimme ____!” (Alabama cheerleader’s repeated cry): 2wds. 61. Suffix with cash, cloth or hotel

6) What was Hiram Hackenbacker's nickname in Thunderbirds?

2) In 2006 who was named as the highest paid female in the world of sport?

7) In the music hall song, where did Burlington Bertie come from?

3) What is the nickname of the Oklahoma state in the US? 4) In what year did the Gunpowder Plot take place? 5) The Komodo dragon is native to what country?

158 | Word July 2012

8) What is the name of a type of low fat curd cheese? 9) What does the alcoholic drink Kahlua taste of? 10) By what nickname are nightclub security staff commonly known?

Mouth of Steel

{pop lingo

Answers on page 2 11) What is the central wedge shaped stone in an arch called?

16) Who started the KFC fast food chain?

12) What famous soul artist was once the drummer of Harold Melvin and The Blue Notes?

17) What metal is the best conductor of electricity?

13) What is the title of the third book in the Lord of the Rings trilogy? 14) What word comes from the Swahili language meaning 'journey'? 15) What was the first suspension bridge in London?

18) What is the birth stone for November? 19) Name the fabulous winged horse of Greek mythology? 20) Who admitted to adultery in a 1995 interview with Jonathan Dimbleby?

quiz}

WIN !! R P IZES

Each of the first three people to send all correct answers to christine@wordhcmc.com will win a free 10-hour Vietnamese language course at Vietnamese Language Studies Saigon (VLS). Choose the correct answers for the questions below: b) Uống Part 1:

Trivia Buff 1) If you were in an internet chat room and you wrote the letters "IMO" what would you mean?

by Daniel Lambourne

Do you own a photograph that would look go od here? Email it to christine@ wordhcmc.co m

1) Anh/Chị tên _______ gì? a) thì b) là c) mà 2) Điện thoại tôi _________ 0900-xxx-xxx. a) số b) tuổi c) màu 3) Tôi là ________ Việt Nam. a) người b) nước c) ở 4) _______ tôi một ly cà phê sữa đá. a) Ăn

c) Cho 5) Hôm nay là _______ 4 tháng 7. a) thứ b) ngày c) tháng

Part 2: 6) White a) Màu đỏ b) Màu trắng c) Màu đen 7) Twenty a) hai b) mười hai c) hai mươi

8) Milk a) Sữa b) Trà c) Cà phê 9) Mother a) Mẹ/Má b) Bố/Ba c) Ông/Bà 10) Hospital a) Bệnh viện b) Công ty c) Trường học

Part 3: 11) What is your name? a) Anh/Chị tên gì? b) Anh/Chị bao nhiêu tuổi?

c) Anh/Chị làm nghề gì? 12) How old are you? a) Anh/Chị tên gì? b) Anh/Chị bao nhiêu tuổi? c) Anh/Chị làm nghề gì? 13) What is your job? a) Anh/Chị tên gì? b) Anh/Chị bao nhiêu tuổi? c) Anh/Chị làm nghề gì? 14) Where is the supermarket? a) Siêu thị ở đâu? b) Siêu thị làm gì? c) Siêu thị thế nào? 15) I love Vietnam. a) Tôi thích Việt Nam. b) Tôi yêu Việt Nam. c) Tôi nhớ Việt Nam.

Prizes are for first time winners only July 2012 Word | 159

on THE

STOOL Angel Phan believes she e can help you d out how she’s find your soul mate. Find planning to take on thiss challenge. Photo by Charles Barnes

THE PERSON What is your idea of perfect happiness? Actively creating things to the best of your ability; taking the initiative and doing everything to gain happiness. One day, if you work at it you will find perfect happiness. What is your greatest fear? Myself. I cannot defend myself against difficulties brought on by life. What talent would you most like to have? To control what happens around me and the tough situations that arise in business. Also the ability to be a normal housewife. What is the trait you most deplore in yourself? I work too much and have no time for myself. What trait do you most deplore in others? [People who] keep talking about the results of things that they haven’t done yet. If you were to die and come back as a person or thing, what would it be? I would be a bunny and stay in the arms of someone I love. What is your most treasured possession? Despite my limited experience, my warm heart and my understanding of life. What do you consider your greatest achievement? A decade working in fashion. It really is a long time.

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What is your ideal man like? He will be smart, understanding and warm. He will have a good heart and a good voice.

THE BUSINESS Your new company, Vietnam Dating, is trying to match people up. Why do you feel the need to play cupid? I have many friends that are in business and still single. They tell me that it’s very difficult for them to find their soul mate because they are busy with work and on the weekend they do not want to go to bars because it’s too noisy there. They want to go somewhere elegant with good music, somewhere where they can hopefully meet someone and get into a relationship. I think this is a very new market in Vietnam. I want to do this so that I can introduce a place where business people can either come to network or find their soul mate. You went from being a model to becoming a

fashion designer and now a matchmaker. How did that all happen? I was only a model for a short time. I won some well-known beauty pageants in 2003, but at the time I was studying. So I left modeling to focus on education and painting. After university I studied fashion design, specialising in evening wear. For Vietnam Dating, I wanted to invest in Vietnam because I want Vietnamese and foreigners who are living and working in Vietnam to have an interesting place to network and find new relationships. You’re single but trying to match other people. Do you feel this is a bit of a contradiction when you, yourself, have not found the perfect partner? The economic situation means that life is more difficult right now. I have to work harder than before to ensure my staff and the business stay okay. A perfect partner is just too much for the time being. I have no time for myself and I certainly don’t have any time to invest in someone else.