Word Ho Chi Minh City October 2012

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

OCTOBER 2012

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

Contents

wordhcmc.com

OCTOBER 2012

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FEATURES 006 | The Prelude THE TALK

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009 | The Big Five 010 | Just In 012 | The Buzz 020 | In the Papers 022 | Word of Mouth 024 | Calendar 026 | Overscene INSIDER

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MIND OVER MATTER

Whether you are 25 or 75, it's always a good time to think about ways to keep your mind healthy

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ARE YOU SUSTAINBLE?

We cut and tear apart the garment industry to find out if fair trade exists here

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OVERLANDING AFRICA

Racked by low funds, one man travels the breadth of Africa by land, bumping and grinding it from Nairobi to Cape Town

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SUNDAY BLOODY SUNDAY The best Bloody Marys in town

030 l Building Bridges Want to donate your time or money but don’t know where to begin? LIN centre can help

THE BLIND DATES

Our two winning couples from Saigon Singles speak candidly about the match up and their date

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OH, THE HORROR!

The Rocky Horror Picture Show takes on Ho Chi Minh City

036 l Talking with Dogs This lady has more in common with man’s best friend than man himself

060 l Old Maid Syndrome We discover why middleaged Vietnamese women are overlooked for marriage

066 l Mystery Diner Our critic reviews Japanese restaurant Tamago

2 | Word October 2012

Trivia Buff Answers See p154 for the original puzzle 1) Deep Blue Something 2) Seville 3) Atom Bombs / Japan 4) First Sub 4 Minute Mile 5) Richard II 6) Hershey, Pennsylvania 7) Equinox 8) Roses 9) Martin Scorsese 10) A Zebra 11) An Acre 12) Four Tops 13) Cutty Sark 14) McClaren 15) Charles Manson 16) Roald Dahl 17) The Undertones 18) Archimedes 19) Absolute Begginers 20) Silver

COLUMNS 088 l Destination Zero 104 l Foodie Corner 115 l For The Record 116 l Road Rules 117 l Decks 'n Drums TIENG VIET HANOI 141 l The Sommelier 142 l The Art of Noise FINAL SAY 148 l The Great Debate Do species go extinct because they’re weak, proving Darwin’s theory of survival of the fittest, or is it from man’s greedy hands?

The argument starts here

150 l Dead Heat Private investigator Kemp discovers the first name of the killer

156 l On the Stool Representing a minute Portuguese community, Honorary Consul-General Afonso Vieira speaks his mind

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Crossword Answers See p154 for the original puzzle. Puzzle by Frank A. Longo. Edited by Will Shortz

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC

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Special thanks to Michael Arnold, Michale Halloran, Rob Marsh, Simon Faithfull, James Pham, Francis, Kyle Phanroy, Julian Ajello and Lyra Dacio for their contribution to this issue.

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Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

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In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 161/CXB-QLXB/ ngày 18/01/2012 Quyết định xuất bản số 327 QĐCN/LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 11/09/2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2012.

The Prelude A

After a month of matchmaking behind us, it was time to take a break from chasing after 20 singles. So instead we went in search of some good oldfashioned R & R. The city throws up all sorts of chaos, especially during the rainy season, and it can sometimes become overwhelming. But map in hand, we have found some of the more peaceful locations around town as well as other ways to hit the reset button on your fuddled mental state.

In addition to the wise words of counsellors and life coaches, we sent our deputy editor to sample firsthand Saigon’s first boot camp experience and although he nearly passed out from the sudden effort, he survived

and felt better for it, which sums up our cover story this month — a simple case of mind over matter when everything around you is a broiling mass of frenetic energy.

James Pham fills us in on an amazing adventure in Africa complete with stunning photos and a minor case of sunburn, while closer to home Julian Ajello drinks his way round some of Saigon’s swankier establishments in search of the best Bloody Mary to cure a hangover. (He might just need a Bloody Mary for all those Bloody Marys.) The much awaited results of our Saigon Singles competition are in and although you will have to read on to find out how they went, we are confident that love may just

INBOX

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

OCTOBER 2012

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo by Charles Barnes Design by DH Advertising

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US EITHER BY EMAIL ON CHRISTINE@WORDHCMC. COM OR BY TEXT ON 0947 074 136 — WE’RE NOW AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

A PAT ON THE BACK

Firstly I want to thank you for offering such a wonderful avenue for information as a new expat in Ho Chi Minh City. Before I arrived I would read Word every lunch time online to prepare me for my time in Vietnam. I just wanted to be here every time I heard about another restaurant or alley I should visit.

I read a story about The Voice and it was about someone doing work dubbing for advertisements or for any reason here at a company in Ho Chi Minh City. I am interested in contacting this company to offer my services as I am an actor. I have searched on the site but nothing has come up with that wording. Can you help me find the article in order to contact this company?

I forgot to mention that I also found the Helen O’Grady Drama School through Word and contacted them saying I was interested in their company and the ideas behind it. I had further discussions and am now one of their newest drama teachers… all through Word! Love you guys!

Keep up the good work! — Leanne

6 | Word October 2012

be in the air this year.

On a different note, Derek Milroy gives us the heads up on that mysterious condition he daringly calls “The Old Maid Syndrome”.

As ever we look forward to getting your feedback. To make it easier for you, you can now text your comments directly to our chief editor Christine Van. Simply drop her an SMS on 0947 074136 (please refrain from sending drunken texts). Alternatively you can email her on christine@wordhcmc.com.

We look forward to hearing from you.

And finally, Happy Halloween from Word! May you all find last minute face paint and costumes to scare the bejesus out of your nearest and dearest at this festive time of year.

TARGETED OUT (Safety Special, September 2012)

I’m usually very careful and conscious about my bag and my surroundings in the city but your articles really put the spook in me.

It’s a shame that we can’t even wear nice things here because we’ll end up being targets. What’s the point of all the luxury brands plying their ware in this city if customers can’t even show them off? May as well buy fake if you’re going to end up losing it anyway. — Ms Chan

The Talk

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE

STILL UPLOADING

1 THEBIG

NITE GROOVES

A regular of world-renowned clubs such as Pacha and Space, house DJ/ Producer/radio presenter Kiko Navarro is in town for a dOSe of Nite Grooves on Oct. 29 along with regular turntablists Scrambled Edge and DJ Dan. Navarro honed his talents in Ibiza and many other venues around the world. The diversity of his music production and his sets according to dOSe “gives a full spectrum of quality dance music”. The venue will be announced a few days before the event, so keep your eyes peeled.

Email dosegrooves@gmail.com for more info g

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THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS M MONTH ON O NTH TH

A slow connection is frustrating. No connection could mean devastation

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It’s a Monday afternoon and we’re posted up at a coffee shop putting the final touches to this issue of Word. But our patience has run dry. In the office, despite having a supposed superfast internet connection, we’re stuck waiting for websites and emails to load up. Here, at least, there seems to be some normality.

The cause of our grief, indeed the cause of the grief encountered by millions, goes back to an incident that happened just over a month ago.

In mid-August, the Asian-America Gateway sub-sea cable, running between Ba Ria-Vung Tau in southern Vietnam to Hong Kong, was cut. Either from an anchored vessel or a seabed landslide, we don’t really know. Regardless, with many service providers like FPT, Viettel and VNPT relying on the connection, the results were felt throughout Vietnam. Suddenly everything went slow. And even a month later after repairs, the connection still seems to be intermittent.

This is not the first time we’ve had such an outage. Early March saw a similar severance from which it took the country 20 days to fully recover Internet connection.

And then there is the constant change in connection speeds. Sometimes the internet is inexorably slow, sometimes it is lightning fast. There seems to be no regularity.

8 | Word October 2012

Bad for Business That so many oft-heard complaints revolve around the speed of the internet shows just how important this avenue of communication has become. Not only does it act as our connection to the bigger, brighter outside world, no matter how digitized or lacking in reality, but it is the mode through which we do business.

In recent years the internet has become indispensable.

Let’s take email, for example. A phenomenon of the last 20 years, its existence has destroyed postal services.

Fax machines have fallen by the wayside and even the accepted format of writing letters has changed beyond recognition.

Now almost all business communications, invitation after invitation, and flier after unwanted flier arrives directly into our mailboxes in digital form with no need for a paper version. With the internet connection getting slow, our ability to answer and send emails reduces drastically. But just imagine if all our email went down. How would we cope? We wouldn’t. A crisis would ensue.

Search engines such as Google are another example. Our avenue to access all things information, imagine if they were hacked and destroyed. Suddenly we would no longer be able to Google everything

our heart desires — the free publicity and advertising given to websites and URLs that makes the World Wide Web accessible would disappear. It would be like being back in the dark ages again, a time when we were told that there was all this amazing information available online, but we just didn’t know how to find it.

Austin Powers It may all sound like a storyline out of a 007 or Austin Powers movie, but having seen the disruption caused by just one cable being cut in the East Sea, this should be a very real concern. Were we to truly lose our access to the internet or even just parts of it, we would suffer.

That this has happened before, if not in a slightly different form, should be a warning.

In 1998 the central area of New Zealand’s largest city, Auckland, suffered a five-weeklong power outage due to the failure of two key electricity cables. Essential to the daily activities of businesses in the Queen Street area of the city, without power the businesses stopped operating and there was chaos. People took to the streets, tempers rose. The outage cost millions.

Imagine if the same thing happened today. It just doesn’t bear thinking about.

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SCOTLAND THE BRAVE

The 22nd Annual Saigon St Andrew's Charity Ball will be held at the Park Hyatt Saigon on Nov. 17.

Enjoy an evening of food, fine wine and spirits as well as dancing to traditional Scottish band, Face the West. It’s also a chance to see a haggis ceremony and performances by Merlion Pipes & Drums from Singapore.

Tickets are priced at VND3 million and include a fivecourse gourmet meal, free flow of drinks and a selection of malt whiskies. If you fancy a go at Scottish dancing in preparation for the event, classes are being held on Wednesday evenings from 7pm until 9pm at APSC Compound Sports Club (36 Thao Dien, Q2).

For all queries, email saigonstandrews@gmail.com

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SPOOKY TASH

To celebrate their first birthday Blanchy’s Tash (95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1) will be holding a massive Halloween party on Oct. 27.

Timmy Vegas of Soul Central will be returning to headline from 8pm until 3am 3am. Entry will be free and there will be many surprises on the night to say a big thank-you to all their guests wh who have supported them over the past year. As it is Ha Halloween, there will also be a competition for the bestdre dressed ghoul, witch or devil.

For more info, go to www.blanchystash.com

SUNDAY RIDDIMS SUN

Saigo Rockers’ famous Saigon Reggae Sunday is back Regga on Oct. Oc 21 at Saigon Outcast (188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2) with Saigon’s first live international reggae act Million Stylez on stage.

Echo Monkeys are also on board as well as many more acts taking to the stage throughout the day. Ragga specialist Mike Dare is dropping by with some verbals and Dr Samurai will also represent with some Japanese freestyles. Keep an eye out for live graffiti, skate and BMX shows during the day, and a special custom bike show/competition. All profits from the day will go to charity.

CRACKED After successful concerts in 2008 and 2010, the Goethe-Institut Vietnam presents, for the third time the percussion music festival Cracking Bamboo on Oct. 10.

Cracking Bamboo combines Asian and western music, which produces an exceptional and unique sound. 31 participants from Asia and Europe, including Germany, Norway, France, England, Mongolia, Canada, Belgium, Indonesia, Malaysia, Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, will come together for workshops in Bangkok. From Vietnam three percussionists from the music academy in Ho Chi Minh City will also take part. This will culimnate in the show at the Ho Chi Minh City Conservatory on Oct. 10.

For free tickets go to Goethe-Institut, 18, Duong 1, Do Thanh, Q3, or email info@saigon.goethe.org

5 October 2012 Word | 9

Just In the talk

THEY WOK HARD FOR YOU

THE KING’S MOVE The international airport is no longer the only place you can get a glimpse of the king. Burger King will soon be found nearer to the city centre at its second address of 152 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan. Get ‘em while they’re hot!

The tradition of American-style Chinese food has finally reached Saigon by way of Wok N Roll, from Oct. 15. The Chinese-American family behind the business has 20 years of experience in the industry and a successful restaurant in Boston, Massachusetts.

The menu has favourites like orange chicken, General Tso’s chicken, beef & broccoli, sweet and sour pork, sesame chicken, kung pao shrimp, Szechuan shrimp, egg rolls, fried wontons, chow mein, and much more. Each dish is prepared to order using only the freshest, highest quality ingredients. Prices range from VND30,000 to VND109,000 and the restaurant is delivering to Districts 1, 3, 4, 5, 7 and Binh Thanh — for take away and delivery only.

For more info, go to www.woknroll.vn, call 01226 908881 or visit 554 Le Van Luong, Q7

IMBIBE EMBASSY Curious about wine but find it too complicated to get started? Wine Embassy (13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1), a new downtown wine bar plans to educate your palate.

Great for beginners to sample, compare, and train their taste buds, a sommelier is on staff as well as knowledgeable waiters and bartenders, all able to help you choose the right wine and guide you through the experience.

Find out more at www.wineembassy.com.vn

CORKS OUT!

THROUGH EUROPEAN EYES A small pop-up shop at Mekong Merchant (23 Thao Dien, Q2) will be showing pieces from the jewellery Harmony collection from Gaya.

The collection is a reflection of Asia through European eyes, a mixture of colourful tassels, silver, buffalo horn, leather, French beads, Chinese ornaments and more. The shop will be open every day from 10am to 7pm.

French wine bar Cork and Bottle (7 Thai Van Lung, Q1) is now open and popping corks left, right and centre.

Belonging to the wine importer Vinifera, their selection of wine spans from Old World to New World. Located in a quiet area with a small terrace and a lounge area on the second floor, wine is served by the glass or bottle with choices of cheese platters, cold cut platters and some chocolate on offer to soften up the palate. It's the perfect hideout to start the night or to have a leisurely glass after work or before dinner. The bar is open from Monday to Saturday, 5pm to 12pm.

For more info, call 3822 0007

ANOTHER CHAPTER Returning to the very centre of Saigon, Carmague will be rubbing shoulders with many other international restaurants in the well known courtyard address at 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1.

Now open for lunch, and with new chef Mickael Le Calvez at the helm, the busy French restaurant moves next door to The Refinery. As well as a lunch service, dinner will be also be served, and to celebrate their move, a new menu has been created for the city’s avid foodies.

For more info, call 3520 4888

10 | Word October 2012

NOT THE BIRD International three-star Ibis Hotel is now open in Saigon South. It features 140 stylishly designed rooms with timber floors, complimentary Wi-Fi internet access, a restaurant, bar and three meeting rooms. A free return Ibis scheduled shuttle bus is available from the hotel to major corporate offices as well as into the city centre. The open restaurant serves a variety of pasta, grilled food and a touch of Asian cuisine prepared in front of you as you eat. Ibis Saigon South is located in front of the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Centre (SECC) and is 15 minutes from the city centre.

For more info, go to www.ibishotel.com

the talk

The Buzz COLOUR ME PINK

THE GURU

Pink is the colour of Hard Rock Cafe (39 Le Duan, Q1) this October in honour of their annual Pinktober breast cancer awareness campaign.

Now in its 13th year, their commitment to breast cancer awareness and research continues with limitededition merchandise benefiting a variety of charities including The Breast Cancer Research Foundation in the US, The Caron Keating Foundation in the UK and local breast cancer charities around the globe. 75 percent of the retail price of each pin and 15 percent of the retail price of other products will go directly to the cause. Hard Rock’s Pinktober merchandise is now available including the Pinktober 2012 T-shirt, bracelet and pin.

Want to double your customers and your profits? Business guru Brian Tracy is in town on Nov. 7 to talk about just that at Windsor Plaza (18 An Duong Vuong, Q5).

Brian Tracy has written 52 books in 38 languages with titles including Eat That Frog, Maximum Achievement, The Psychology of Selling, as well as producing 500 audio and video learning programmes. He has given 5,000 talks and seminars all over the world.

Now he is in Saigon to deliver Double Your Customers & Profits — Delivering Outstanding Results in Any Business. The talk is aimed at CEOs, directors, sales and marketing managers.

For more information go to www.itdworld.com, email idhcmc@itdworld.com or call 3932 0600

TO THE PEAK X-Rock Climbing will be holding a friendly speed climbing competition on Oct. 7 at their wall in District 3. The competition is open to anyone who wants to come and join the fun.There are categories for kids, teens and adults. There will be prizes including X-Rock Climbing memberships and climbing harnesses from Mammut.

Drop into their office to register located at 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 (inside the Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre).

Visit www.xrockclimbing.com, for more info

ANGELS AND DEVILS

SAUCY COURSES A six-course buffet focusing on ingredients and Mama Africa sauces from South Africa will take place at Boat House (40 Lily Road, APSC, 36 Thao Dien, Q2) on Oct. 20.

Held on the outdoor terrace at Boat House overlooking the river while tasting a fusion of local and imported fish, meats, pastas as well as South African sauces and wines, there will be a variety of music including Cape Town jazz while guests celebrate the introduction of Mama Africa in Vietnam. Tickets are priced at VND250,000.

To get your ticket or for more information go to www.savanna-asia.com

12 | Word October 2012

Are you an angel or a devil this Halloween?

Level 23 Nightspot is taking the theme to a whole new level on Oct. 31.

Decorated with blood, ghosts and scary skeletons, the Sheraton’s high rise bar will also entertain guests with some truly shocking games. Staff will match the theme with costumes so guests are actively encouraged to dress up as an angel or devil, too. There will also be a special offer of buyone-get-one-free on selected beverages.

PETER AND THE WOLF The magic of Peter and the Wolf is coming to Ho Chi Minh City for children of all ages, courtesy of VinSpace Art Studio and Inspirato Music Centre, and takes place on Oct. 6.

The music and art event starts with a music and storytelling concert, bringing the characters of this literary classic to life.

After the story they will begin Peter and the Wolf arts and crafts, where children will be able to make puppets of the characters.

Children’s tickets are priced at around VND420,000 and adults at VND210,000.

To get your ticket contact info@vin-space.com

October 2012 Word | 13

the talk

Wired THE NEXUS TABLET WHEN THE IPAD WAS FIRST LAUNCHED in April 2010, it was greeted with some ridicule. A tablet? Surely that’s the stuff of science fiction movies. And what would we use it for, anyway? It can be no better than an oversized iPhone. Right?

Apple’s faith in their product nevertheless proved to be well founded.

So far ahead of the market was it that it is only now, towards the end of 2012, that their rival, Google, has launched the Nexus tablet (www.google.com/nexus/#/7).

But don’t expect outrageous app or technological revolution that will significantly change the race to the future — there are no Star Wars-like hologram phone calls available on this touchscreen player. Instead, what the Google Nexus 7 offers is a cheaper yet still viable option, entering the market at around VND7 million to VND8 million for the 16GB version. Google, we guess, is hoping to reach the masses rather than restricting its usage to the financially better heeled.

With cheap prices usually come cut corners. And it’s in this regard that despite chopping away at the odd bit of functionality, Google really has produced a worthy-of-note product, with corners intact.

First is the size — a seven-inch screen as compared to the larger 9.5 inch screen of the iPad. Easy to hold, store and carry around, the small size quite simply cuts down production costs. Rumour has it that the Nexus has so irked Apple that an iPad Mini may be on the horizon.

Though the Nexus tablet is more than sufficient in terms of speed, if we are going to talk about limitations, the first issue is memory size. There is no additional SD card that fits inside the Nexus 7. So, you’re stuck with the 16GB or 8GB versions. Fine for most but an irritation for some. Then there are the cameras. Whereas the iPad has two, the Nexus has only one, the front-facing camera, making it perfect for video calls but not for snapping shots. But then, who uses a tablet for photography anyway?

The key limitation is really the lack of 3G. In a country like Vietnam, where Wi-Fi radio waves seem to bend their way round every corner, it is not such a deficiency.

But elsewhere it may be a letdown.

Still, with the Nexus 7 being sold in Vietnam for close to half the price of the iPad, is the trade-off of price versus functionality worth it? We think so.

14 | Word October 2012

the talk A TO Z Brand new website www.vietnama2z.com has now been launched to help visitors and expats get to know Vietnam like the back of their hand.

The main function is to share users’ reviews and ratings of the country’s more popular businesses and venues. If you are a business owner or manager, you won’t have to pay to appear on the site, but if you would like more access to management services, there is a monthly subscription fee required.

GIVE A LITTLE

A NIGHTMARE IN SAIGON

A Canadian Thanksgiving Dinner will be held by CanCham on Oct. 8 at the InterContinental Asiana Saigon from 6pm.

One of Canada’s most celebrated days of the year will be remembered in Saigon with a semi-formal evening featuring an extensive menu including roast turkey and a free flow of wine and beer. Live music will be provided by Risky Red and others, so book your table in advance.

For more information or to buy tickets contact Ms Nhung at hcmc@canchamvietnam.org or call 3824 3754

Halloween is here and Saigon Saigon Bar (Caravelle Hotel) wants to freak out its customers with a spooky night out on Oct. 31 from 9pm The open-air bar will be decorated in all matter of ghoulish things, and a list of scary Halloween drinks has been put together as well as some frightening food. A shockinducing shot awaits you and your friends at the door. Entrance is free, if you dare.

For more info, go to www.caravellehotel.com

LEG IT! The running club with a drinking problem, Saigon Hash Harriers, will be holding their annual Red Dress Run on Sunday, Oct. 7.

The bus will leave at 2pm from the Caravelle Hotel. Running and walking trails are planned and all participants are required to wear a red dress.

Proceeds raised will go to the charity Operation Smile.

For further details go to www.saigonhash.com

THE LITTLE PRINCE Dragonfly Theatre Co. will be staging The Little Prince in late October / early November this year with a collaboration between Vietnamese and western performing artists. The show will star some of the most talented Vietnamese and western actors in the theatre, film and TV industries, with the special participation of TV celebrity Nguyen Lan Phuong in the role of the little prince.

The adaptation will recreate the interplanetary journey of the little prince from asteroid B-612 to planet Earth. First published in 1943, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s masterpiece has been translated into 210 languages and dialects, and has sold over 150 million copies around the world.

For more info, email director@dragonflyvietnam.com

October 2012 Word | 15

the talk WILD WILD EAST On Oct. 19, Hard Rock Café (39 Le Duan, Q1) will be alive with the sound of Brett Newski’s music, part of a night of original rock n' roll from 9pm. A US/UK band will also team up with Vietnamese indie rock band COCC, with HRC going for a good old-fashioned East meets West theme with free entry.

RARE TALENT

ARMCHAIR ACTIVISM

FORMED WITH CARE

Season three of Art House Cinema entitled Armchair Activism kicks off at Snap Café (32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2) on Oct. 3 from 7.30pm with Addicted to Plastic.

The documentary explores the solutions to plastic pollution. The point-of-view style encompasses three years of filming in 12 countries on five continents, including two trips to the middle of the Pacific Ocean where plastic debris accumulates. The film details plastic's path over the last 100 years and provides a wealth of expert interviews on practical and cutting edge solutions to recycling, toxicity and biodegradability.

These solutions — which include plastic made from plants — will provide viewers with a hopeful perspective about our future with plastic. Entrance is free.

The Form, a solo exhibition by artist Tran Minh Tam, is now on show at Cactus Gallery (17/12 Nguyen Huy Tuong, Binh Thanh) until Oct. 15.

According to the artist, The Form was created from three main concepts, container, physicality and mentality. Having exhibited his works around the world, Tam spent two years researching his current topic.

“The Form is the fruits of my art production in recent years,” says the artist, “which seem to satisfy my personal search in the time being. They are my sensory experience of the image and the subject.

An interaction between physicality and mentality.”

For more info, go to www.cactusartgallery. com

New, rare pieces by acclaimed Ho Chi Minh City based artists Hoang Duong Cam and Nguyen Trung will be on show at Galerie Quynh (65 De Tham, Q1) from Oct. 3 to Nov. 3.

Hoang Duong Cam is one of the most active contemporary artists in Vietnam today. His conceptual works usually pick one or several of the following mediums: painting, drawing, sculpture, installation work and performance, video and digital photography. Over the last decade, Nguyen Trung has initiated a new current in Vietnamese art. It is abstract art, based upon strict European rationalism, placed within an Oriental philosophical space.

For more info go to www.galeriequynh.com

EARLY CHRISTMAS PRESENT

GIVE IT SOME HEART The annual CMI Charity Gala is in the works and will be held on Nov. 24 in the garden of the French Consulate.

All profits from the event are dedicated to providing impoverished Vietnamese children with much needed operations at the Heart Institute in Ho Chi Minh City. Since the creation of the Heart Institute, 3,927 children have been saved. CMI hopes to increase the number of operations with the proceeds of this year’s gala. Last year, thanks to the participation of all the sponsors and guests, they collected around VND1,050,000,000, enough for 25 operations. This year, they hope to save more children.

For more info or to buy a ticket contact gala@cmi-vietnam.com

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The prize for the first mention of Christmas this year goes to Mekong Creations and Mekong Quilts who are readying a haul of Christmas gifts to be sold from October.

Naughty or nice, you will be able to get your Christmas shopping done early this year with a full range of tree decorations, rattan reindeer, garlands of Vietnamese angels and more, all at affordable prices in both locations in Ho Chi Minh City.

Made from a variety of natural materials including colourful batik, Christmas has officially arrived early this year. As always profits will be distributed throughout parent company, NGO Mekong Plus.

Mekong Quilts and Mekong Creations are located at 1st floor, 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 and S17-1 Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

the talk

the talk

AND THE WINNER IS… A showcase of six months’ worth of artwork production and experimentation from the 'studio/residence' programme at San Art opens on Oct. 18 from 6pm.

The showcase displays work from Mami Nguyen Anh Tuan, Nguyen Thi Thanh Mai and Truong Cong Tung, who have all participated in Vietnam's first homegrown studio/residence programme, San Art Laboratory. This will be the inaugural exhibition associated with this initiative. The finalists come from a nationwide call for applications that were assessed by an advisory board composed of local and international expertise in the teaching and production of contemporary art.

For more info, go to www.san-art.org

OUT OF CHARACTER Get out of character and into disguise at 2 Lam Son, where Park Hyatt Saigon is celebrating the supernatural with a night of debauchery on Oct. 31 from 5pm.

A complimentary two-night stay at the hotel is up for grabs for the best costume as well as runner up prizes including an Urban Retreat Package at Xuan Spa and a complimentary bottle of vodka for the night.

Party-goers will also be able to take advantage of buy-one-get-one free drink specials available all night long.

For more info, call 3824 1234

SHOP TILL YOU DROP The fourth annual Vietnam International Shop and Franchise Show (VIETSF) 2012 will be held from Nov. 1 until Nov. 3 at SECC. Attracting up to 10,000 and around 400 exhibitors, VIETSF is a joint venture by Vietnam National Trade Fair & Advertising Company (VINEXAD) and Korea International Trade Association (KITA) COEX, aimed at business organisations, agencies and mass production companies.

SECC is located at 799 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7. For more info, go to www.vietnamshow.info

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FOUR! Registration is now open for The Hogs Breath Open which will take place on Oct. 19 at Vietnam Golf and Country Club.

The inaugural event for the Hogs Breath Bar (Ground Floor, Bitexco Tower), the competition will take the format of “Teams 2ball Better Ball & Individual Gross Trophy” and for any players without an official handicap, System 36 scoring will apply. The golfing package of VND2,600,000 excl. VAT includes breakfast, beers on the bus, cooler bag with starting drinks, 18 holes of golf with caddy and share cart, half way Hog’s BBQ with drinks and then it’s back to Hog’s Breath Cafe for a free flow of beer and snacks to accompany the prize presentations. Registration deadline is Oct. 12 and limited player spots are available.

Contact info@hogsbreathcafe.com.vn or events@brogolfer.com for more information or alternatively call Jay on 01203 111581 or Craig on 0909 273997.

October 2012 Word | 19

In the Papers THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

BREAST ENLARGING CAKE ALL GUM SEXUAL h i gum, made d iin F i advertised d ti d as an aphrodisiac h di i ffor women.

A new chewing France, iis b being Several listed ingredients include epimedium herb extract, which contains nitric oxide that can arouse sexual desire in both men and women.

“But that needs a large amount of the extract,” says one local doctor. “Advertisements only say the gum has the extract, not how much there is actually in it.”

People should be careful or they will have spent money for nothing, continues the doctor. A box of 20 sticks cost VND309,000.

VIETNAM’S FIRST SPACE CENTRE The centre will be built on a nine-hectare site in the Hoa Lac Hi-Tech Zone for a total cost of nearly US$700 million.

Of the investment, more than US$587 million has been funded by the Japanese government’s ODA source and the rest has come from the Vietnamese government.

Once fully operational, the centre will be able to design, produce, install, test and control smaller satellites and ensure they are operational in all weather conditions. It will help with early warnings of natural and environmental disasters, forecast agricultural output and marine resources, and update electronic maps for land management, as well as serve as a research base for global climate change.

The centre will also be able to train 350 scientists and specialist technicians in space technologies.

Breast enlarging cakes for women are being sold in Vietnam, but doctors are skeptical about their efficacy.

The cakes are advertised as being capable of enlarging breasts and making them firmer, keeping hair and skin healthy, slowing down the ageing process, and reducing stress.

A box costs VND599,000 and advertisements claim users can see the effect after using seven boxes in two months.

But Dr Hoang Thi Diem Tuyet, deputy director of Tu Du, a leading Ho Chi Minh City hospital, said, “Scientifically, the cake can hardly have the advertised effects.”

Its most potent ingredient is pueraria mirifica, which has a high content of plant-derived estrogen, the main female sex hormone, she explained.

“A large amount of the estrogen can increase breast size, but it is hard to process it since it easily dissolves at high temperatures.

That is not even to mention cases where the cake making process can alter elements [and turn them] into something else.”

MULTI-TRILLION DONG HISTORY MUSEUM PLANNED IN HANOI

JOE JACKSON DENIES EQUITY INVESTMENT IN HAPPYLAND Michael Jackson’s father has stated that he is not an investor in a US$2 billion theme park project in Vietnam. He has decided not to proceed with any further investment or involvement in the project Happyland Vietnam, he continued.

Happyland Vietnam, backed by the Khang Thong Group, is projected to be the largest theme park in Southeast Asia. It was to be inspired by the late Michael Jackson’s Neverland Valley Ranch.

The Khang Thong Group had said Jackson is an investor in the 1,000-room hotel planned in Happyland, which will be located in the Mekong Delta province of Long An.

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The Ministry of Construction has asked for VND11.277 trillion from the government to build the country’s biggest history museum in Hanoi.

If approved, the work will start in November on a 10-hectare site in the Western Sword Lake new urban area in Tu Liem District, news website VnExpress reported.

Besides the exhibition area, the museum will also have a storage area, a restoration centre, a hall for conferences and film screenings, and an area for commemorating people of the past.

There will be indoor and outdoor exhibition areas, the latter for large relics and for use when a complex is needed to explain certain historical or cultural eras.

If approved, the museum is expected to be completed by May 2016.

FIRST PROFESSIONAL PAINTBALL COMPETITION HELD Last month, The Vietnam Open Paintball Tournament was held at Tri Long Club in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 12 with the participation of 16 teams. This was the first official competition to be held in Vietnam, for professional and amateur teams, with 16 teams from Hanoi, Da Nang, Ho Chi Minh City and a guest team from Cambodia taking part.

Each team consisted of five gunners, with four teams playing in the round-robin format. The two teams with the highest points reached the final round. Each match lasted up to five minutes.

In addition to promoting this new sport in Vietnam, the tournament selected the best team to represent Vietnam at the World Paintball Championships, held in Langkawi, Malaysia in mid-November this year.

Word of Mouth FREQUENT FLYER From October VietJetAir is increasing flights to and from Vietnam’s busiest airports.

As well as two domestic routess flying out of Ho Chi Minh City and one flight linking the capital to Danang in mid-October, the Nha Trang route will have two round trips per day while Ho Chi Minh City to Danang will increase to three h daily round trips. Those flying from Hanoi to Danang will also benefit from one to two round trips per day.

More aircraft are being added later on this year, so keep your ear to the ground for even more flights.

For more info, go to www.vietjetair.com

HEALTH AWARE A series of monthly health seminars will take place in the first week of each month at Nutrifort where a guest speaker will come and talk about specific health topics for you and your family.

Their first guest will be Dr Riche from Hanh Phuc Hospital, who specialises in highly skilled laparoscopy surgeries in gynecology, gyne-oncology, breast surgeries as well as pregnancy care and deliveries. The topic of the first seminar will be breast cancer prevention and protection. Those who attend the seminar will also be able to sign up for a free breast ultrasound voucher.

Entrance is free for members and VND100,000 for non-members.

Reserve your place by emailing nicole@nutrifort.com. For more information go to www.nutrifort.com.

PASS IT FORWARD Guide book City Pass is now launching its eighth edition in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City with an increased 10 percent on content. They will also be distributing an unprecedented run of 30,000 copies to many establishments near you.

For more info, go to www. citypassguide.com.

JAPAN ON FILM Fresh from the exceptional series of music documentaries that The Onion Cellar curated in September, The Japan Foundation continues the cinematic theme with another series. The Japanese Film Festival: Comedy 2012 will run from Oct. 25 to Dec. 1 with screenings in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Phan Thiet.

The festival will run the entire gamut of comedy from witty and slap-stick to tragic and heart-warming.

The eight films will be screened with both English and Vietnamese subtitles.

Admission is free, but claiming your tickets in advance is advised. For more info, contact 3944 7419 or check out www.jpf.org.vn

SANCTUARY Kara Salon and Spa, a tranquil 750sqm sanctuary, has taken over from Qi as the new seventh floor spa at Caravelle Hotel.

Offering a wide variety of high quality health and wellness therapies, hair and beauty treatments as well as nail treatments, Kara Salon and Spa is now open for business with an extensive menu of services.

For more info, call 3823 4999 using ext. 16

SWISH Grab your sports gear and get practicing as Saigon Shooters is holding a mixed netball competition until Dec. 3.

Every Monday night the Saigon-based netball team will be holding a competition from 7pm until 9pm, excluding Oct. 15 and Oct. 22. Get in touch if you would like to have a go yourself, otherwise spectators are also welcome.

Contact saigonshootersnetball@gmail.com for more info.

22 | Word October 2012

October CALENDAR TUE

MON 01

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm every day at Pacharan

GERMAN FILM FESTIVAL 2012. From Sep. 28 to Oct. 4 at BHD (3C, 3 Thang 2, Q10) AN BINH GALLERY GRAND OPENING EXHIBITION. Until Oct. 15 at An Binh Gallery. Visit www.anbinhgallery.com for info

08

02

JOHANNA CALLE / IRREGULAR HEXAGON: COLOMBIAN ART IN RESIDENCE at San Art. Until Oct. 11.

Email hello@san-art. org to info

09

CANADIAN THANKSGIVING DINNER 2012.

6pm at InterContinental. Email hcmc@ canchamvietnam.org for info ROMANTIC ACOUSTIC NIGHT. 8.30pm every Mon. at La Habana FITNESS CLASSES @ The Boathouse, 8.30am every Mon., Wed. & Fri. Email info@cyril-and-you.com for info

15

LIVE ACOUSTIC NIGHT. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Habana

LADIES NIGHT. 9pm every Tue. at Lush

WED 03

MARGARITA MADNESS @ Khoi Thom, 7pm every Wed.

22

WTF MONDAY. 7pm every Mon. at Sin Lounge

23

ROOTS. 9pm every Tue. at Blanchy’s Tash

ITALIAN MOVIES @ Pendolasco, 7.15pm every other Wed.

ILV CHARITY BAZAAR. 10am at Sherwood Residence

EVA - ETERNAL SPRING. From Sep. 23 to Oct. 6 at Tu Do Gallery (53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1)

SAIGON DEATHFEST 2012. 1pm at District Culture & Labour House. Call 0935 196 388 for info and tickets

FRIENDLY SPEED CLIMBING COMPETITION at X-Rock Climbing. Email info@ xrockclimbing.com for info

10

11

24 | Word October 2012

LIVE ACOUSTIC. 8.30pm every Thu. at La Habana

JAZZ NIGHT WITH MARIEDEL. 8.30pm every Thu. at La Fenetre Soleil SBA MEETING @ Swiss Chalet (54 Pasteur, Q1), every 2nd Thu. of the month.

CRACKING BAMBOO. 8pm at the Conservatory. Email info@saigon.goethe. org for info PURE. 8pm every Wed. at Blanchy’s Tash

STEAK AND ALE for VND250,000+.

Every Wed. at Hog’s Breath MODELS AND BOTTLES. 9pm every Wed. at Sin Lounge

24

SALSA DANCING @ La Fenetre Soleil every Wed.

JUICY. 8pm every Thu. at Blanchy’s Tash BOARD GAMES NIGHT. Every Thu. at Geisha

18

CABIN CREW THURSDAY. 9pm every Thu. at Sin Lounge

12

THE BASH @ Tash. 9pm every Fri. at Blanchy’s Tash

OKTOBERFEST 2012. Oct. 5 & 6 and from Oct. 9 to Oct. 13 at Windsor Plaza. Visit www. oktoberfestvietnam. com for info

19

SIZZLE LIKE SALSA. 9pm every Fri. at Koh Thai

HALLOWEEN at: Sheraton., Seventeen Saloon, Saigon Saigon Bar, Park Hyatt EARLY BIRDS’ HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Sat. & 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri at Hog’s Breath

14 RELAX ACOUSTIC. 8.30pm every Sun. at La Habana SCOOTER MOTORBIKE FEST VOL. 1. 10am to 5pm Oct. 13 & 14 at Kumho Link

THE FORM at Cactus Gallery. Until Oct. 15

20

DJ NIGHTS @ Xu, 10pm every Sat.

HIGHEST TEA. 2.30pm to 5pm, Mon. to Sat. at Strata

JAZZ NIGHT WITH MARIEDEL. 8.30pm every Thu. at La Fenetre Soleil

THE HOGS BREATH OPEN at Vietnam Golf and Country Club. Email info@ hogsbreathcafe.com.vn for info

COCKTAIL MASTER CLASS WITH RICHIE FAWCETT @ Koh Thai, every Sat. Call 091 233 9138 for booking

TACOS NIGHT. All Tacos are for VND25,000+ every Thu. at Khoi Thom

BRETT NEWSKI PERFORMS. 9pm at Hard Rock Café

SABADO NIGHT. 9pm every Sat. at La Habana

25

26

PERONI FRIDAY’S @ Vino, 4pm to 7pm every Fri.

ACOUSTIC LADY NIGHT. 8.30pm every Wed. at La Habana

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13

SOUND ADVENTURES WITH VOODOO FRANK. 9pm at La Fenetre Soleil

SALSA CLASSES at 7.30pm and Jazz Night at 8.30pm. Every Thu. at La Habana

HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at MM Bistro Saigon

JAPANESE FILM FESTIVAL: COMEDY 2012.

From Oct. 25 to Dec. 1, Hanoi, Saigon and Phan Thiet. Call 3944 7419 for info

RED DRESS RUN. 2pm from Caravelle. Visit www.saigonhash. com for info

ARMCHAIR ACTIVISM. 7.30pm at Snap Café

THE CUBAN SENSATION WARAPO FIESTA. 9pm every Fri. at Pacharan

NITE GROOVES. Email dosegrooves@ gmail.com for info

07

ORGANIC AND NATURAL FOOD AND DRINKS MARKET. 10am to 5pm at Boomarang Bistro

AMERICAN FOOTBALL LIVE. Mon., Tue. & Fri. at Hog’s Breath. Replay on request

30

ARC ANNUAL CHARITY BAZAAR. 9am at Hetty’s House (47 Thao Dien, Q2)

PETER AND THE WOLF. 3pm at VinSpace and Inspirato Music Center.

Call 090 772 9846 for info

HAPPY HOUR with house wine, beer and cocktail. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Mekong Merchant

TAPAS FIESTA & WINE through the night. 7.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

06

OCTOBER’S RAFFLES NETWORKING NIGHT. 8pm at Caravelle

ONE NIGHT IN BANGKOK. 9pm at Sofitel Plaza

BLIND TEST. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Fenetre Soleil

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FRIDAY FIESTA. 9pm at La Habana

AMCHAM PALOOZA PARTY. 6pm at Equatorial. Visit www.amchamvietnam. com for info

ROCK & MOVIE NIGHT. 5pm to 9pm every Mon. at Hard Rock Café

NEW 2 COURSE SET LUNCH for VND185,000+. From Mon. to Fri. at Hog’s Breath

05

SUN

PETITES PLANÈTES - THE TRAVEL FILMS OF VINCENT MOON. 8pm at DeciBel (79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1)

17

HOANG DUONG CAM & NGUYEN TRUNG EXHIBITION. From Oct. 3 to Nov. 3 at Galerie Quynh. Visit www.galeriequynh. com for info

AUSCHAM SUNDOWNERS. 6pm at Sofitel Plaza

SAT

LIVE MUSIC WITH VERONICA NGUYEN. 9pm at Hog’s Breath

LIVE MUSIC WITH JURAM. 9pm every Wed. at Pacharan

STUDIO/RESIDENCE PROGRAM. From Oct. 18 to Apr. 18 at San Art. Visit www.san-art.org for info

04

FRI

NEON PARTY - GLOW IN THE DARK. 9pm at Velvet

LADIES NIGHT. Free bottle for a group of 5 ladies. 9pm every Tue. at Lavish

16

THU

A SEPARATION. 8pm at DeciBel (79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1)

CHAMBER MUSIC CONCERT. 8pm at the Opera House

MUSIC QUIZ NIGHT @ La Fenetre Soleil every Tue.

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Oct. 10 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

I AM HIP HOP @ Velvet, 9pm every Fri.

KING LEAR. Oct. 25 to 27 at the Opera House. Call 0915 00 57 79 for info

HOUSE SPIRITS for VND20,000. 5pm to 7pm every Fri. at Phatty’s

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HOUSE SPIRIT – Buy 1 get 1 free.

Every Sat. at Hog’s Breath

DAILY HAPPY HOUR. From 4pm to 8pm every day at Saigon Saigon Bar, offering two-for-one deal

21

SUNDAY ROAST for VND500,000+ at Hog’s Breath

CHARITY BAZAAR at Kumho Link Plaza.

Email chris.puchalski@vtijs.com for info REGGAE SUNDAY at Saigon Outcast SUNDAY PAELLAS & HAPPY HOUR. 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana

28

THE FIRST HALLOWEEN CELEBRATION. 8pm at Blanchy’s Tash DJ MAQMAN. 9pm every Sat. at La Fenetre Soleil HAPPY HOUR. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck

HANDS. From Oct. 18 to Nov. 11 at Craig Thomas Gallery

SCENE

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY HCMC LIFE

OVER

BE A SURVIVOR Wake Up Saigon organised a game of cat and mouse where participants had to run to check points before getting caught

A NIGHT TO REMEMBER The AusCham Arabian Nights ball saw a bevy of sheiks, genies and belly buttons at the Intercontinental

GOING LIVE The newly refurbished Bernie’s bar will be showcasing live music on a weekly basis

IT’S COLD IN HERE

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

PHOTOS BY CHARLES BARNES

The official opening of the Haagen Dazs café saw models but, more importantly, plenty of yummy flavours

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

LOL

26 | Word October 2012

Saigon’s first comedy night saw international stand-ups Ro Campbell, Jonathan Atherton and Rishi Budrhani bring on the laughs at Hard Rock Cafe

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

IT’S COINTREAUVERSIAL The Sofitel Saigon Plaza hosted One Night in Bangkok with Cointreau where the higher the heel worn the higher the discount on cocktails

Insider

TALKING WITH DOGS / THE BLIND DATES / MIND OVER MATTER PHOTO BY CHARLES BARNES

CHARITY CORNER

Building Bridges Michael Halloran discovers a centre that connects donors and volunteers with people and organisation that need them in order to build a better community. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

W

hen you live in such a rapidly developing city as Ho Chi Minh City, disparities of wealth might sadden you at first, but hopefully, they will shock you into action. Many people decide they want to volunteer and donate. But where to begin? It’s been said that it’s often easier to make money than give it away… wisely. So whom should you invest your time and money with?

This is where LIN Centre for Community Development comes in. Running since 2009, LIN is all about creating bridges between donor partners and local not-for-profit organisations (NPOs), in the context of volunteerism and helping vulnerable people. Their mission is to foster a culture of philanthropy in the city, to promote social responsibility and altruism, especially at the grassroots level. So far they are working with over 80 NPOs. The centre also provides small grants to NPOs, expert training, information and resource exchanges, workshops and in-depth roundtable discussions to address shared concerns, as well as networking events.

“This has been a growth year for us,” says Dana R.H. Doan, strategic consultant at LIN. “We’ve been working on a five year plan and we’ve also been actively fundraising and we have plans to operate a regular thrift store. We want to use An Phu Neighbours (a Google group) to encourage people to donate to the thrift store rather than just selling on their old things.”

LIN is also working to put all of its resources online. For example, providing detailed online profiles for all partner NPOs. They also want to become a physical centre where NPOs can come to seek out advice and resources — resource exchange is something that LIN is working on quite a lot, and in the current world economic climate, this particularly suits donors who are more interested in providing time, mentorship and products, rather than monetary donations.

The Challenge What kind of networking activities does LIN organise? A prime example was the Corporate Challenge 2012. In this challenge, local NPOs in the city were matched with corporate

30 | Word October 2012

partners (in this case advertising firms) to make five teams: Brand Maker & Hoc Mon Social Centre, Clover4Leaf & Little Rose Warm Shelter, Matterhorn Communications & Thao Dan Social Centre, Clover4Leaf & Tuong Lai Centre, and Lowe Vietnam & Action for Wildlife Organization. Over eight weeks, the corporate partners mentored each NPO in order to create a product and design a mission strategy. The challenge ended with an award ceremony on Sep. 7.

The winning NPO was Hoc Mon Social Shelter and their prize was a service package worth VND40 million by Viivue, to be used for website development and brand building.

“I’m very happy our organisation won the top prize,” said Hong To Hue Lan, director of Hoc Mon Social Shelter at the ceremony. “However, even if we didn’t have any prize, the appreciative relationship between Brand Maker and us would still be there standing as a promise that we will be frequently in touch with each other.”

You can give more than just time and money to charities. A constant requirement at LIN is space for workshops and round table meetings.

“Ideally,” says Dana, “we need spaces in a central location. Also, our round table meetings can be up to 20 people and workshops up to 60 people.”

They need people who are willing to donate their skills. LIN has a pool of around 100 volunteers who regularly contribute, but still need more. English-speakers can help with language teaching and website proofreading.

However, knowledge of Vietnamese is a requirement for most assignments. Dana advises “if you’re an English speaker who wants to volunteer, bring a Vietnamese friend.”

LIN is also hoping to hold a “festival of experts” every other month where people can meet and network with experts in various fields and build lasting connections. “We need volunteers with skills in human resources, finance, communications and IT,” says Nguyen Thi Thanh Truc, volunteer coordinator at LIN. People with expertise in law are the most coveted.

For more information, visit their website, www. linvn.org.

SAIGON SINGLES FOLLOW-UP

The Blind Dates Last month hundreds of you voted for your favourite couples to go on blind dates and this month, as promised, we’re here to deliver the juicy details. To set the mood, we sent the two couples on activity dates and romantic dinners. Did we make a love connection or forge the ultimate humiliation? The answers will surprise you. Photos by Francis

wouldn’t waste my time. My problem is that I lose interest quickly, maybe I have ADD [laughs again] and maybe that’s why girls think I am a player. If I can find someone that stimulates me constantly and on all fronts, I see myself settling down. With that being said, I think Jenny has a shot...

Our First Couple: Aaron Lee and Jenny Nguyen

According to Aaron

this for awhile [laughs]. I have screwed up too many dates in my life to mess another one up, just another walk in the park.

Does she look better in person or in the magazine?

She looks better in person, thank god.

What was the worst moment of the date?

When she kept yapping about her exboyfriends during dinner. It was cool for a minute but her motor just wouldn’t stop, she kept going and going and going. It was quite funny actually — I found out some freaky and funny things about her. And when she fell on her face while she was walking towards me with her 6 inch heels, I was scared for her [laughs].

Were you nervous going on the date?

No, nothing to be nervous about, been doing

Describe briefly how the whole day went?

Overall, shockingly cool! I didn’t expect these

What was your first impression of her?

Exactly as described in her profile — highmaintenance, bubbly, cute, decent fashion sense but she threw me off with her corny looking hat...

32 | Word October 2012

sorts of things (blind dates) to work out very often.

Is she someone you would take home to meet your parents?

Let’s not go too far just yet, might be a bit premature to bring her home. But I think she can definitely be a hot summer fling with further potential if she can keep up with me.

We hear you’re a player, so is she just another notch on your headboard or could this turn into something serious?

First of all, I don’t think I am a player. I am true to my words and don’t tell lies to girls in order to advance. If I pursue a girl, it’s because I really do like her. Otherwise, I

Is she the kind of girl you would usually date?

Actually yes, I usually like short petite girls and they usually like me for some reason.

After spending time with her, I think she’s very down to earth. She doesn’t care about driving in the rain because she made me drive 30 minutes to a bar near her house in the rain. Not to mention the 30 minutes drive back where I almost crashed into the divider because of the slippery road.

She’s a very funny gal. Her many blond moments, dorkiness and her innocent geeky smiles managed to keep me laughing throughout our date. I really like her optimistic attitude towards everything. Isn’t that the point? Find someone with a sense of

humour and share laughter with them? Also, it seemed very easy and natural when I hung out with her. I could be myself and crack jokes without being scrutinised heavily. But here’s the wild card, she told me that she’s a crazy girl living inside a good girl’s body.

When the crazy girl wants to comes out and play, she said I won’t be able to handle her… I highly doubt it but I am curious to find out!

According to Jenny Were you happy or disappointed when you saw who we matched you up with in the magazine?

He’s good-looking, so it was OK. What did your friends think of you being in the contest?

They thought it was fun and interesting.

Did you actually think you would win?

It was really a surprise because I just participated in the article for fun and didn’t expect that I would win.

Does he look better in person?

I think he looks better in the magazine.

What was the best moment of the day?

Maybe when we were in the pottery class, it was interesting. He’s more skillful than me.

What was the worst?

I fell down in front of him. It was embarrassing.

How do you think the date went?

It was a nice date. I really enjoyed making the cups at the pottery class. We made a bet on whose cup was better and he won, so I had to treat him to a drink before we had dinner at the Sofitel. It was raining heavily, but he still went to my friend’s bar with me. It was sweet.

What did you learn about him?

He’s confident, smart and funny.

Would you see him again?

I would see him again because it was fun to hang out with him.

October 2012 Word | 33

who are proud to be themselves.

This pairing garnered the most votes this year. So, find out how they got along. Was it a hit or miss?

Our Second Couple: Tung Tran and Emily Nguyen

According to Emily What did you think of our match up with you and Tung?

Beyond my expectations — it was a lot of fun when I saw my half face and his half face [together] in the mag. When I was in a meeting, my vice principal informed everyone that I’m in Word, so everyone in my office wanted to read the article. If you think we didn’t have many things in common, why did you match us up?

From your bios, it didn't seem that you two had many things in common, so what did you talk about?

We talked about countries we have been before, travelling experiences, what we

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like to discover in the city, the countryside, people and stuff. Tung was very excited to talk about travelling and so was I. We loved talking about food as I’ve been trying to cook as much as I can at home after work. The funny story he told me that made me laugh out loud was about a guy who can eat any fruit in the world except our local fruit when he arrived in Vietnam — durian. I admit it smells bad and I can’t eat it either. Also we both have the same hobby BBQs on the weekend with friends, a relaxing and fun activity.

What did you find out about him?

[He’s] comfortable, caring, patient and honestly loves travelling and is willing to explore new things — flexible in a good way.

It was easy to share stories with him and especially being himself, I admire people

What was the worst moment on the date?

During the rock climbing, the coach was very serious. Once she told me. “You are keeping his life.” So I was a bit nervous and couldn’t take my eyes off him when he was climbing — my head was always up and my hands turned red pulling the strings.

When I was a belayer and he was the climber, he climbed half way up the wall and I didn’t notice that he just wanted to take a rest so I could skip the string but I didn’t, then he climbed down without me expecting it. I ended up pulling the ropes out when he wasn’t ready yet. It was a funny moment.

A possible future with you two?

That’s really a hard question. Thanks so much to Word for the outing, it was so much fun and I really enjoyed it. About the future, my opinion is that what will be will be, I have an open mind. If this doesn’t work out I may have a great new friend.

So I won’t plan for it, but I am glad to get to know Tung and meet him in person. We will see when we meet next time…

Did you guys kiss?

No, not yet. I prefer saving the best for last.

According to Tung Better looking in person or in the mag?

In person, from the way she dressed and carried herself.

What did you two talk about over dinner?

We talked about our backgrounds, career and experiences of living in Vietnam.

Sometimes not having many things in common is more interesting because you learn new things.

What did you find out about her?

I found out she studied economics.

However, she loves kids so she became a teacher.

What was the worst moment on the date?

The worst moment was probably when I kept sweating from the rock climbing.

Do you see a future with you and Emily?

It’s too soon to talk of a happy ending, but you never know.

Were there any language or cultural mishaps during the date?

There weren’t any language barriers because she is an English teacher. Actually, she a Singlish teacher, because she teaches at SIS (a Singaporean school).

Did you guys kiss?

No, I’m sure she did not want to kiss when I was sweaty at the rock-climbing site, and I’m sure that was doubly true after eating fish at dinner.

Describe the difference between dating a western woman and a Vietnamese one.

In my opinion, I don’t see any big differences. All women are puzzles and you just have to figure how to put the pieces together.

What was the best moment of the date?

When we finished dinner and we did not have to pay for it. Thanks Word for picking up the bill.

Has being in Saigon Singles changed your dating life? Would you do it again?

It hasn’t changed my dating life, but I would definitely do it again.

A special thanks to our sponsors — Fuji Japanese Restaurant, Overland Club, Sofitel Saigon Plaza and X-Rock Climbing.

October 2012 Word | 35

TALKING SHOP

Talking With Dogs Not content with setting up Saigon’s first pet hotel, Stephanie Chew wants to become Vietnam’s dog whisperer. Words by Derek Milroy. Photos by Francis

S

tephanie Chew, 30, grew up in Malaysia and as a child watched her father take in all manner of waifs and strays into their home.

She recalled how he loved to have pets around when, anything from Pomeranians, Dalmatians, guinea pigs, tortoises, hamsters and rabbits to Koi fish.

She admits she is a sucker for a lost dog: “Pets and especially dogs have always been a part of my life. Occasionally there would be a wandering dog around the area and my dad would always rescue them from the street and take care of them at our home.

We always hoped that one day their owner would show up and take them home, but most of the time the dog would stay with us and we would just treat them like one of our own.”

Their house became an unofficial animal sanctuary and brought about her passion for creatures of all types. And since her recent relocation to Vietnam she came up with the idea to open her own pet hotel. But not as a business. Rather, as an outlet to train dogs “in the right way” and hopefully to have a modicum of the success experienced by her idol, Cesar Millan, whom she adores and follows religiously.

“I have watched all of Cesar Millan’s tips and advice [programmes] and I try to put this into practice and incorporate his training methods with mine,” she says.

“I first tried them out with my mum’s dog back home that was aggressive towards everyone and everything except our family.

I am happy to say that I managed to shape him into being less aggressive and easier to handle. So this is something that I would love to do with the dogs in Saigon.”

Stephanie believes that every country needs a pet hotel and hopes to branch out once the Saigon one is sustainable. It’s

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something she wants to do for the rest of her life. She winces every time she sees a stray dog or hears horror stories about how cruelly they are treated.

She is also trying to start up adoption campaigns in Saigon and to raise awareness in neutering pets. Now she is on a mission to restrict the number of strays wandering the streets.

“When you come to my house you don’t see a hotel, you see a home where the pets can live comfortably and have their needs fulfilled” A Cause for Paws Stephanie, who resides in District 2, has lost many pets to illness and accident, but it has never discouraged her from continuing to own pets. When she first arrived in Vietnam, she experienced a terrible tragedy.

“Days after we arrived [here] I knew we were going to be here on a long term basis. So my partner took me to a pet shop and I fell in love at first sight with a golden spaniel puppy. We bought him and took him home but sadly we lost him to Parvo virus and kennel cough. Since then we have a new puppy named Brandy. She’s a mix

and is now six months old.”

From the ordeal and the trips to the vets, it made them realise that the pet service industry is still in its infancy here. Vietnam lacks the kind of places where owners can trust that their pets are properly being taken care of. She hopes to improve the situation.

“When you come to my house you don’t see a hotel, you see a home where the pets can live comfortably and have their needs fulfilled,” she says. “Isn’t this more important to your dog than a fancy room or a cage? I think it is. I refuse to use cages to look after pets during the day and I only put them in a room at night.”

Stephanie is currently offering a pet boarding service where dog owners, for now, can be at ease. Whether they are away long or short term, on holiday or on business, they will know that their pets will not be locked up and will be treated properly.

She has a large bathtub that she lets the dogs swim in on very hot days as she believes it is a form of exercise, and the more time you spend with a pet is important. Other services include basic grooming for cats and dogs such as nail clipping, a nightmare of a chore and she has the scratches to prove it.

She can take care of ten pets comfortably at her ‘hotel’.

“I thought this is a great idea, I love pets. I love taking care of them because the unconditional love they give in return is so rewarding there are no words to describe it,” smiles Stephanie. “I know that there are many expats here that also travel. I hope I can help them out.”

If you would like Stephanie Chew to give you a helping hand in looking after your pet, contact her at nampetboarding@gmail.com or call 01203 749890.

October 2012 Word | 37

COVER STORY

Mind Over

MATTER Ho Chi Minh City isn’t exactly the first city that springs to mind as the place to find peace and quiet. The day passes in clamour and stress and strife, and most of us can’t get through the night without being awakened by loud music, neighbours arguing and motorbikes honking. And this is to say nothing of the noise and anxiety we carry around in our heads, no matter what we’re doing or where we are.

As usual, what Saigon taketh away, it also returns. The city offers countless places to visit, classes to take, doctors and experts to advise, for those of us mere mortals who want to practice some sort of stillness in our everyday lives — or simply sneak off for a dip in the pool.

So, we’ve chosen some pockets of silence throughout the city that you can zip into for a moment’s refreshment or relief. Just don’t tell anyone where you’re going.

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October 2012 Word | 39

"It’s important that people come out from the sanctuary of their own home — a sense of detachment is crucial, and many seekers, despite themselves, resist their own decision to affect meaningful change"

Your Guide to

Happiness Does your life resemble Saigon's traffic? If so, then speaking to a life coach can set you in the right direction towards happiness. Words by Michael Arnold. Photo by Charles Barnes

THERE’S A POPULAR ASSUMPTION THAT a great deal of personal issues can be worked out just by sitting down, taking a good, hard look at yourself and facing up to reality. The human brain, however, is on record as being rather more stubborn in its imperfections: as the old Indian proverb says of the human condition, “I know what I should do, but I cannot bring myself to do it; I know what I should not do, but I cannot hold myself back”. Despite the assurances of the great sages, the truth does not always set you free; and it can often require a guiding hand before the body’s natural tendency to heal itself can be applied to the problems of the mind.

One interesting thing about the relationship between the guide and the guided, of course, is that it’s not just one-way.

The experience of helping another person pull themselves together can be remedial in itself — and this is perhaps the insight that led to the foundation of the Human Potential Coaching method now practiced in Ho Chi Minh City’s Get Well Saigon (60 Duong So 4, Q2) by long-term resident Kate Anderson.

The co-founder of a successful locally-based design firm, Kate was instrumental in the development of this particular path to wellness, following her close association with its inventor Robert Bridgeman in the course of her own journey towards healing.

Bridgeman’s method, in which practitioners learn to coach others as a fundamental part of their own self-help process, is a smorgasbord of traditional Asian and New Age techniques dealing with self-awareness and life enrichment. As Kate puts it, “It’s probably closely aligned to the western conception of what Asian thinking is. While there’s really nothing new in there, there are over 50 exercises from different sources — all the things that worked in Robert’s own experience.”

With the inclusive nature of the technique and its central focus on coaching methods, participants in the course tend to bring in their own experiences; and with everyone on their own journey, it’s never the same.

“I never believed it would be a closed book on what the method is,” she says. “The point of it all is that coaching alters the self.”

Dust Off the Mind There are a number of ways to do the course.

Some prefer group sessions at the District 2

40 | Word October 2012

premises (formerly known as the Live Your Own Nature centre). Others choose to meet somewhere neutral — in these cases, Kate often begins the session with a brief stroll outside to dust off the mind. It’s important that people come out from the sanctuary of their own home — a sense of detachment is crucial, and many seekers, despite themselves, resist their own decision to affect meaningful change.

Occasionally, during the process of opening up, specific issues arise that actually require psychological attention — participants are advised when a more clinical approach is necessary. The Human Potential Coaching method is not a replacement for psychotherapy. Those drawn to the instructive methods Kate employs are usually people who have simply identified that they need to have a greater sense of purpose, or would like to be happier in life.

The techniques she uses are geared towards clarifying those goals and removing the clutter that we inadvertently install to deflect attempts at healing: “A lot of the things that we as humans carry around with us are the temporary daily truths, the dramas of our lives, the distractions from the deeper issues. All this ‘noise’ serves to do is protect the ego from genuine clarity.”

There are those who do resist, despite their commitment to the process. “Everyone is essentially afraid of change, even though we understand that life can’t go on without it. If a plant’s not growing, it dies. The same is true of the mind.”

“Some people just don’t see it. But sometimes you can understand another person’s situation far better than you can see your own, and you can share that intuition.” This, of course, is what the coaching is all about.

Kate sees a remarkable symmetry between the reactions she gets from participants in different categories. Men and women attend the course in roughly equal numbers, and Vietnamese, while coming from a vastly different cultural background to the overseas residents who undergo the Bridgeman exercises, tend to respond in similar ways.

While many are sceptical, most participants treat it as something they have resolutely decided that they should do, and the results are generally positive.

The only really consistent issue that expats

as a group tend to face is that many of those who choose to leave their country of origin and wind up here are motivated by a need to avoid issues they had to face head-on at home. While there are many different kinds of foreigners living in Ho Chi Minh City — from the fresh young faces teaching English to those posted here long-term on business — the different freedoms that they are presented with can often give rise to strategies that relieve the sense of unimportance that people had in their own countries.

Be Who You Want To Be Expats harbouring a low self-esteem here have many opportunities to keep themselves away from that pain. Kate sees such temporary solutions as an empty chase: “People can get lost in trying to escape, which actually becomes a bigger problem. People inevitably discover strategies that will pick them up and are irresistibly drawn to them when they feel down. The result is that they always slide back again, which is why these behaviours wind up as a cyclical pattern.”

The Bridgeman technique is one way to identify those ineffective cycles that block people from being who they actually want to be, breaking patterns and allowing participants to reprogramme in what they actually want to have going on in their minds.

So how do you know if you’re in that place where you need to seek help? Kate’s recommendation is perhaps a tad cheesy, but it’s an effective litmus test.

“Just look in the mirror and say ‘I love you’ three times, and address yourself using your full name. If you sense any resistance to that, there’s something there that could be healed.”

HUMAN POTENTIAL COACHING (GROUP) 3 Days Intensive: VND8,320,000 5 Days: VND10,400,000 Register at getwellsaigon@ hotmail.com or go to www. getwellsaigon.com

October 2012 Word | 41

The Art and

MIND

"As a psychologist I see how through art creation people can connect with a natural understanding of their situation (stress, dependency, sadness, lack of self confidence, etc.), understanding the internal and external situation from new points of view"

Christine Van speaks to art therapist Loyda Santolaria about how using your hands creatively can help heal your mind. Photo by Charles Barnes What is art therapy?

Art therapy is a psychological approach based on the idea that the creative process is healing and is a form of non-verbal communication of thoughts and feelings.

Some therapists see it as psychological therapy that helps individuals to express their thoughts, feelings, beliefs, problems and world views. Others see art itself as the therapy; that is, the creative process involved in art making, whether it be drawing, painting, sculpting, dancing or some other art form, is therapeutic. I think both aspects contribute to art therapy’s effectiveness as a form of treatment. Art is a powerful tool in communication. Art expression is a way to visually communicate thoughts and feelings that are too painful to put into words.

It is important to understand that the therapist’s focus is not on the aesthetic of art making, neither in teaching art techniques and yes, the therapeutic needs of the person. The therapist’s job is based in choosing and facilitating art activities that are helpful to the person, helping the person to find meaning in the creative process, and facilitating the understanding of the experience of making the art with the person.

Why would someone choose this form of therapy over regular ‘talk’ therapy?

I offer art therapy as a technique to clients whose personal circumstances and personal interests are adequate for it.

As a psychologist I see how through art creation people can connect with a natural understanding of their situation (stress, dependency, sadness, lack of self confidence, etc.), understanding the internal and external situation from new points of view.

After focusing on a creative activity which is totally different to a normal activity, the person sees the problem, the situation and the alternatives from other perspectives.

That is the real help.

What kind of clients have you seen so far in Saigon?

I have been based in Vietnam since 2011. Since then I have been focusing on different types of support as a mental

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health consultant. I have been building the technical capacities of counsellors and psychologists working in INGOS, schools, and local NGOS, and collaborating with different organisations such as Anupa Yoga Studio in Saigon, SPAP (Song Pho Applied Psychology Center in Saigon, www.songphopsy.org) and Lifeart (www. lifeartvietnam.com) in Hanoi.

How many sessions does it take to see results? And can you continue the process on your own?

It depends on, as in any therapy, of different factors, the person’s circumstances, situation and the person themselves (age, symptoms, dependencies, duration, awareness and will to recover). Normally it takes a minimum of 10 sessions.

As an art therapist I am finding that art activities help individuals communicate relevant issues and problems more quickly than when I work with other approaches.

My first private sessions are free so I can assess the person and their needs objectively and professionally.

Describe what a normal session consists of? How long do they last?

Individual art therapy sessions take up to one-and-a-half hours. Group sessions take one-and-a-half hours. The sessions begin when the client decides to learn about themselves and their situation through selfexpression. The sessions consist of: 1) Warm up and awareness: Body, emotional and psychological awareness 2) Self expression activity/art activity: The arts activities serve by enabling an individual — or group of individuals — to express themselves, to communicate their ideas through whatever medium they choose. Self-expression activities give the individuals the chance to enrich their lives through artistic endeavours not only to stimulate personal growth but also to build confidence through a sense of achievement.

3) Closing session and awareness:

Reaching conclusions, definition of lessons learnt and creation of objectives for the next session. Awareness activities, letting go of what we don’t need and taking with us, to use, what we learn.

How do you interpret or read the artwork to know what the patient is feeling?

After inviting the person to share thoughts and feelings about their art, I ask, “Do you honestly want my reactions?” If so, I offer my congruent feelings in statements that make it clear that these are my projections on their art. I do not interpret a person’s art. There is a fine line, an important nuance, between making congruent personal responses and interpreting another’s work.

I own my reactions when I preface my feedback with, “When I look at your art, I feel… Or, in witnessing your painting, I felt…”

Giving feedback in this manner is very different from saying, “This art shows how depressed you are, or how chaotic your life is.” Telling a person in a declarative way what their art means takes away the sense of self-knowledge.

Some sceptics see this as a scam and don't see any real medical benefits for those in need, what do you have to say to them?

Art therapy has been investigated for its medical benefits and there is solid evidence that images have a significant impact on our bodies. Simple experiments have provided evidence that even exposure to the images of nature from a hospital room window can decrease the length of stay and increase feelings of well-being in patients (Ulrich, 1984).

For example, just imagining biting into a lemon may cause one’s mouth to pucker.

Seeing a favourite food may cause one to salivate. Images can create sensations of pleasure, fear, anxiety, or calm, and there is evidence that they can alter moods and even induce a sense of well-being.

Loyda can teach in English, French and Spanish; sessions can be booked with her directly at loydasantolaria@hotmail.com

October 2012 Word | 43

Changing

heads A former Ho Chi Minh City resident, Libby Zinman Schwartz tells us how her role in IFC helped change the concept of counselling for psychology students in Vietnam. Photo

by Andrea Schwartz What was the psychology field like when you worked here?

It took me a very long time to train Vietnamese graduates of psychology at Ho Chi Minh City universities in western psychotherapy. Their texts and training in psychology were inadequate and they knew little about modern psychotherapy.

Imagine Vietnamese young people grasping the concept of “internalising the hostility of the parent” when, given their Confucian training, a child or young adult must never even think of the parent in that manner. It was tough, but they did learn, and they all became pretty good at treating depression, anxiety, social phobia and dependency disorders, which were commonly presented.

Why did you feel there was a need to open IFC (Individual and Family Counseling)?

I founded the clinic to train students passionate about the field but unhappy that they could not use their knowledge (which was dated) to help others. Why the French, who had helped the Vietnamese in the food and fashion area and who sent the best to Paris to train, rarely tried to demonstrate how theory is converted to practice, I do not know, except that it is hard work. The American psychiatric contingency brought anti-psychotic drugs but little instruction and enjoyed a luxurious “vacation” in the city, though there were some who would have done more if encouraged.

How did you build the clinic from the ground up and how did you get people to trust you?

I knew I had to start at the beginning to unlearn and retrain students, so I developed a curriculum that historically began with Freud and followed developments to the present. I marketed the clinic by paying for brochures and cards and other materials and furniture, and then knocking on doors of shops in town to introduce the clinic to as many people as possible.

The most difficult work was to teach students how to “facilitate” indirectly rather than tell clients what they must do to resolve their issues. The influence of Confucian

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thinking is still strong in Vietnamese culture, and it is rather authoritarian in its demands for obedience to parents and other authority figures. I tried to promote self-esteem and assertiveness both in my student counsellors as well as in Vietnamese clients.

I also made the decision that both the training of students and counselling of clients would be free, and to avoid additional costs the clinic was held in my house on Ngo Van Nam where I converted several bedrooms into offices. We grew and became rather well-known. Everyone attended clinical sessions: doctors, students, French, Belgians and other foreigners who were doing their practicums in Vietnam.

The biggest surprise was the hundreds of Vietnamese clients who sought help at our clinic over the years. Don’t let anyone ever tell you that mental health counselling is stigmatised in Vietnam. If it is marketed properly and is free, it will attract the local people who need help and who also want to assist their families and friends who are troubled. The clients demonstrated great respect for the counsellors because they were viewed as authority figures. Eventually, after five years we began to charge about VND50,000 per session as Vietnam transitioned to a desirable world market.

What achievements did the clinic see over the years?

IFC was a groundbreaker in the sense that psychotherapy simply was never before taught in [this part of] Vietnam and only in a limited way in Hanoi. We were able to help many Vietnamese formerly suffering from disorders not understood or treated effectively. I was constantly frustrated to see French therapists, usually psychiatrists, visit Ho Chi Minh City and lecture way over the heads of students and then refuse to answer their questions. I was appalled to see American psychiatrists offer little more than anti-psychotic drugs to doctors and students, and then enjoy the luxuries of the best hotels where they were wined and dined by grateful officials of mental hospitals in the city.

Why did you leave Vietnam?

My first visit to Vietnam was in 1996.

People in Vietnam then were still very poor, unlike the present with burgeoning millionaires dotting the landscape and many city Vietnamese earning a middle class salary by local standards. The culture was very traditional then, but is now becoming heavily influenced by western values. My students were eager to learn, loyal, helpful and very bright. It was a joy and one of the best experiences of my life to live in a culture I admired and to teach students how to help other Vietnamese resolve many different kinds of psychological disorders and mental illnesses.

I left Vietnam in 2010 to return to my own family in the Princeton, New Jersey area (two daughters and two grandchildren I had seen rarely since 2000) and to open a practice. I advertise now as IFC Princeton and Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, and am very proud of the groundbreaking work IFC did during the ten years I directed the clinic. At present IFC has a Vietnamese counsellor, fluent in English, taking calls and clients on request. The clinic also refers expats seeking counselling to me and we set up Skype counselling when that is agreeable to both of us.

Some years before I left Vietnam, IFC had formed an outreach programme to place a number of counsellors who trained at the clinic in professional capacities in the city.

They now practice at mental hospitals in Ho Chi Minh City, lecture at universities and see Vietnamese patients privately. We were also able to establish a counselling office at a prominent private school in Ho Chi Minh City that is now maintained by resident teachers. One of our students decided to become an entrepreneur; he opened a coffee shop where he joins clients to chat and provide some casual counselling. He knows I wouldn’t approve, so he doesn’t send me too much information.

For more info on counselling email Libby on libbyzin@yahoo.com or call Uyen Thy on 0903 031280.

October 2012 Word | 45

Quiet

PLACES

When construction noise and the stress are too much, head to these places for some quiet down time. Words by Derek Milroy. Photos by Charles Barnes

MARIAMMAN HINDU TEMPLE Everyone is searching for answers. But are we asking the right questions? Even if you are not a religious person, the large number of gods in this Hindu temple (45D Truong Dinh, Q1) can give you some reassurance and maybe after a visit you can take some positives and get ready to take on the world once more. You may come out feeling a bit more relaxed after burning joss sticks or just some time to think. Moments like this can make a difference in today’s stressful existence.

SWIMMING POOL, DIAMOND PLAZA Do you sometimes feel like running away to the nearest beach and its calming water?

But with the nearest ocean about two hours away, the next best thing is taking a dip in a swimming pool and there is none better located than the luxurious watering hole on the 14th floor of Diamond Plaza (34 Le Duan, Q1). Head straight to the lift; don’t even think about shopping, switch off your mobile phone and laptop. Swimsuit and a trashy novel are all that is required. Up here among the clouds forget the bosses, deadlines, emails, texts — the whole shabang.

Price is VND317,000/day for the pool, gym, sauna and steam room

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REUNIFICATION PALACE The Reunification Palace (135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1) is one of the most popular city landmarks with its prominent location in the city and its historic past. The view from the top or middle floors along the stunning tree-lined Le Duan Boulevard is picturesque, with the city’s French influence there for all to see.

But what people tend to forget is that behind the palace is a gorgeous little gazebo where you can sit and enjoy a nice refreshing drink and take in the lush greenery of the nearby gardens. The pittance fee to enter is incomparable to the tranquility it offers in exchange.

TAO DAN CULTURAL PARK, TRUONG DINH Parks are one of the best ways to relax in a vibrant city and Tao Dan is one of the better ones — open night and day. There is nothing better than walking past trees, admiring the colourful flowers and taking in fresh air while protected from the street noise beyond.

Tao Dan is a wonderful green kingdom suitably located in the city centre. It’s even got some sculptures and cultural artefacts to match. And if you work nearby, stroll along on your lunch break before heading back to the grey confines of the office.

THE THU THIEM RIVERFRONT When we think of Central Saigon, we tend to think of District 1. But if you want some pause for thought or even some reflection, hit the side of the river directly opposite the Bitexco Tower.

Getting there is easy, but you will need transport. Go under the tunnel and then as you come up for air, take an immediate sharp right. This takes you to Luong Dinh Cua. The road is potholed and many of the houses have been knocked down, but there are pagodas, areas of jungle, mangrove swamp further along in An Loi Dong and even a small fishing port. It’s quiet, too.

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AS A RULE I ONLY RUN WHEN CHASED, so it came as quite a shock to find myself face down in the mud on a drenched Friday night, attempting an exercise dubbed the “mountain climber”. Bile rising, sweat dripping and my ears ringing with “try James, just try!” from the boot camp instructor, to which I could only answer, “This is me trying.” Sad but true.

Forget the comfy confines of your airconditioned gyms, Original Bootcamp Vietnam is a different beast altogether, and I recently became one of their first ‘recruits’.

The rain was falling, picking up pace just after dark in the busy Hoa Lu sports complex on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. You learn very quickly that this is no light aerobics-cumstitch and bitch class. The guys from Original Bootcamp mean business, trained to whip unfit gym haters like me into shape - mind and body.

Attention!

Happy

CAMPERS Boot camp training is certainly not for the feint-hearted, but advocates are effusive about its physical and mental benefits. James Allen gives us a firsthand account of his experience. Photos by Charles Barnes 48 | Word October 2012

In the driving rain we lined up in front of Fitz and Ken, our French-Vietnamese instructors, fresh off their intensive training course in Malaysia where these classes are popular.

The intensive military style training doesn’t appear to have broken them, as I soon found out, it’s had the opposite effect, and their enthusiasm soon becomes your source, at times your only source, of motivation.

Starting with a slow jog around the track, we were quickly overtaken by little eightyear-old blurs, part of one of the many athletic groups sharing the complex. In one corner were the karate kids, their teacher bellowing over the K-pop music that was blaring from an open window above.

Meanwhile, we jogged around one lap. Not bad I thought, might not be so unfit after all.

We lined up again for some light stretching, I couldn’t touch my toes, but it wasn’t the first time I’d failed in a similar endeavour. You only have to fall off one yoga block trying to touch your knee, until you learn to let these minor embarrassments go and get on with the task in hand. After I’d sufficiently lulled myself into a false sense of security, everything started to move a lot faster and harder.

Five exercises followed, all with deceptively harmless names undertaken in 40 seconds with 20-second breaks. Prisoner Sumo Squat: “Squat right down, go, go, go!

Steady! Break. Press ups, elbows up to hands, hands down to elbows, 40 seconds! Keep going!” Getting harder. “Steady.” Another cue to rest, 20 seconds is nothing when faced with the mountain climber, considering the name, an oddly horizontal exercise, shaping the body like a ‘V’ requiring you to quickly switch your feet backwards and forwards. We continued with Bird Dog and finished with a very yogic Flamingo.

“Ok, now we go again, Prisoner Sumo squat!” he yells.

After ten minutes, and not throwing up, I had made it and although I wouldn’t be able

to look at a Flamingo for a while without wanting to beat it up, I’d completed the big five with my fellow recruits.

“Water break, one minute!” comes another yell.

This is one of the evening 6.30pm classes that takes place on Monday, Wednesday and Friday with an additional class for early risers at 6am on the same day.

Brought over to Vietnam by a group of likeminded businessmen and women, it is still in its early stages, but wildly popular in Hong Kong, Malaysia and Indonesia.

But how does an outdoor exercise class such as this fit into a society where daily outdoor exercise is already the norm?

According to one of the head honchos, although parks are already filled with plenty of health conscious people doing various classes together, there is definitely still a market for those who want more of a challenge but may need the motivation of a structured workout while benefiting from group support.

Be An Animal As our water break came to an end I was starting to realise that this was no ordinary ‘class’. It’s pretty serious exercise, where mental stamina is equally as important as the physical — “Just keep going!” soon becomes a mantra and despite throwing up in my mouth a few times, the exertion really became quite exhilarating. Terrifying, even.

The break was followed by an activity that involved moving through four zones in a different way. Swinging sideways like a monkey, advancing like a crab, jumping and finally crawling like a bear on all fours. When you reach the end of the last zone, you then run back to the beginning and start again.

“Ok guys, five minutes, nonstop, go!”

Nonstop, Seriously?! “Try, James, try!” There it was again.

I made it twice through the four zones, and then I excused myself and disappeared for a time. My fellow recruits were into

their second week of varying exercises similar to these, and I was woefully unprepared. Trying to compete at a similar speed was my downfall. The key is to move at your own pace, and not that of your classmates. Gulping water down in the break is also inadvisable. One of the instructors checked I was OK, I tried again, and again, I excused myself, this time sitting down until the world stopped spinning and the ten minutes were up.

Although I felt rather ashamed of myself, the other recruits spurred me on and I continued to take part, admittedly at a slower pace. We moved through many different exercises, including the use of PVC tubes or ‘rifles’ filled with sand, moving under and over hurdles. Using the rifles to kayak, we even lunged in both directions — all in all a thorough workout.

“Ok, we finish with a game!” shouted the instructor, the relief must have come off me in waves. Then he added: “Well, maybe not for you, but it’s a game for me!”

After all the effort, the giving up, the redo, the nausea and the banter, despite myself, I did feel a huge sense of satisfaction. It was done and next time I’d be better prepared and move at my own pace as the instructors urge.

This is no walk in the park, it’s an affordable, no nonsense way to see a real change in your body. Getting fit isn’t easy, and essentially it boils down to hard work, but if you have a good teacher, there’s a lot of fun to be had while you’re at it.

For me, flailing around like a wounded cow at boot camp reminded me that although I may hold a top-notch gym membership, it means virtually nothing if I lack the discipline and mental stamina to make proper use of it. Maybe what I’ve needed all this time is a camouflaged instructor chasing me around a field while I do the crab and try not to throw up in my mouth.

For more information or to sign up, go to www. bootcamp.com.vn/en/ or email info@bootcamp. com.vn.

October 2012 Word | 49

THE MORE YOU KNOW ABOUT STRESS

Traditional

TREATMENT Deep in Cho Lon, medicinal shops stock bags of roots, herbs and minerals that help reduce stress. Hoa Le digs around to find the best natural remedies for relaxation. Photos by Dominic Blewett

VIEN CHI

CHU SA

THE MEMORY BOOSTER

THE MAGIC ROCK

This light brown root, often harvested from the Hoang Lien Son mountain range, packs a powerful punch to reduce anxiety, aid sleep and prevent memory loss. The stem has been known to put people into coma-like states and should not be ingested — women often sit outside their shops picking out the stems from the toothpick-like root. A suitable vien chi root is soft, which usually means the stem has been completely removed

This brick-red ore was viewed as a valuable resource that contained mercury during the days of the Roman Empire. Since then Chinese and Vietnamese doctors have been using it to curb overexcitement or hysteria.

The presence of mercury means that this concoction must to be prescribed before usage. It’s also expensive — about VND2 million for 100 grams — and can be hard to find in traditional medicine shops

polygalaceae

cinnabar

According to the principles of traditional Vietnamese medicine, stress is caused by seven states of being. First, and ironically enough, stress is caused by excessive amounts of happiness. Feeling too happy can up your heart rate, increase blood pressure and cause sleeping trouble, which can then lead to stress. Anger, grief, worry, sadness, anxiety and panic are also cited as primary culprits. Traditional medicine experts prescribe plants, herbs and minerals to combat stress and help regulate moods

DIY RELIEF A simple remedy for stress relief

by Dr. Tong Tran Luan: Lac tien: 24gr Vong nem: 16gr Young lotus leaves: 20gr Chinese apple seeds (wellroasted): 12gr Lotus seeds: 16gr

TAO NHAN

XUONG BO

HAT SEN

THE CHINESE APPLE SEED

THE MOOD MENDER

THE NATIONAL REMEDY

Similar to red dates, these tiny seeds are harvested from the fruit’s larger seeds. When they are well-roasted they can soothe nerves and allow for better slumber. If the seeds are consumed raw or undercooked, the tonic can have the opposite effect, keeping you awake and sharp

This root is used to treat symptoms associated with depression and can help calm emotions. There are two kinds; one grows on rocks in the forest and the other flourishes in marine environments — primarily in streams. Experts say the root from the forest is of higher quality but rarely found in shops

While the lotus flower is frequently lauded in songs, poems and folk tales because of its fragrant scent and alluring pink shade, the seeds and leaves are also revered for their medicinal qualities. The flower’s brown seeds and green stems within, along with the lotus’ young leaves, act as a sedative when ingested. Consume a large amount of leaves — 16 to 30 grams a day — to really feel it.

ziziphus mauritiana

50 | Word October 2012

acorus

nelumbo nucifera

DAN SAM

LAC TIEN

salvia miltiorrhiza

passiflora foetida

THE SOOTHING STICK

THE FAIRY MIX

This root reduces anxiety and stress without making you feel drowsy. Most of the dan sam at the markets is now imported from China, but the herb is still grown in specialised gardens in Vietnam

This concoction’s powerful sedative quality is thought to whisk users away to the dream world. The herb is safe and doesn’t require processing. Eat the leaves fresh like a vegetable or dry and brew as a tea. It can be planted and grown almost anywhere

Directions: boil leaves and seeds together in hot water and drink throughout the day. Take a break after one week of consumption.

All ingredients can be found in shops in District 5 and in the city’s markets

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BUSINESS

Are You Sustainable?

The garment industry in Vietnam brings jobs and revenue into the country. But at what cost? Words by Nick Ross. Image by Claire Driscoll

I

t's a Thursday morning and the car rolls into a province somewhere close to Hanoi. The day before there was a strike, the first at the recently inaugurated garment factory. In a protest of an issue over working hours, 10 workers boycotted work.

Tempers rose, production was slowed and after a standoff, a solution was sought.

Early in the week the factory was notified that there would be a power cut on the Saturday. They asked their production team if they could work the Sunday instead. Aware of the injustices many other compatriots have had to suffer at the hands of factory owners, a small group of workers decided to take action.

That this particular factory should be affected by industrial action was ironic.

Part of the new breed of textile industry players in Vietnam, this factory is one of a number of producers aiming to bring fairness to an industry riddled with exploitation.

Workers in this country often get a raw deal and it was the mistaken perception of mistreatment that caused the strike.

To Sustain not Suppress Creating sustainability in the garment industry starts directly in Vietnam. It's desirable, too.

There is a growing, commercially viable consumer market for products that can prove organic, eco-friendly origins. According to Alex Falter of Dutch-run Vert, this country is usually only used for processing — the cutting and making. Meaning that the majority monetary value goes to middle men outside of Vietnam.

“90 to 95 percent of production in Vietnam’s garment industry is simply cutting and making,” explains Alex. “This is the hardest part of the process, but the most undervalued.

So, rather than getting the finished price for making the whole shirt, [factories in Vietnam] pass the garment on to the next stage. This means they only receive a portion of the overall value — the profits go to the vendor.

For me it's modern slavery.”

He adds: “If you can cut out the middle man, you’re capacity building, knowledge building. You give the industry the chance to survive on its own. That is our goal. From product development to delivery, we’re trying to do the whole thing here.”

One garment producer that controls every step of the process is Metiseko. From the product development, sampling and materials

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sourcing through to the production, packaging and delivery, everything is done in Vietnam.

They also tackle the sustainability process head on. Rather than utilising the standard factory-style production line, which makes the work mind-numbing, according to co-founder Erwan Perzo, “Every woman sews one garment from start to the finish. [This way] everyone can improve their skills and be fully trained to realize high quality sewing.”

He adds: “By having our own workshop, we can make sure that every worker has a fair wage and good working conditions.”

The Test of Time Although Alex recognises that the word 'sustainability' has been “thrown about everywhere and misused”, he believes that it is the concept that best reflects the notion of fair trade as we know it today.

“It’s about adding value at the place where you’re making the product,” he explains.

Accordingly, Alex breaks the notion down into a number of parts: social, environmental, economic and technological. For him, "social" is the idea of applying strong management systems, encouraging workers to openly discuss problems, instilling principles of fairness such as fair working hours, a minimum hiring age and trying to support the local community.

On the environmental side, it’s all about not polluting the environment and following the latest environmental standards. This means trying to go one better than the Vietnamese laws. “Unfortunately with garments, there’s not all that much you can do,” he says. “A dyeing factory is going to have waste water problems. Quite a few Taiwanese and Korean factories have been pulled up on this recently.”

On the economic front, every business has the same need: without economic sustainability they can't survive. “Making a profit is something that people have to understand and accept,” says Alex. “So we cannot move forward without an economic benefit. This then turns itself into giving out responsible dividends and making responsible investment decisions, and ensuring that there is openness and transparency about it all.”

The final sustainability factor is technological. This means employing the latest machinery for production and using the latest computer-aided design and manufacturing systems. In addition to this, and in a crossover with environmental sustainability, is the use of

sustainable materials such as organic cotton, silk and hemp.

“It’s about avoiding using polluting materials just because they’re cheap. It’s about looking at other options.” Says Alex One area where Metiseko excels is in its use of materials. All its fabrics are organic or ecofriendly. However, achieving this, even with finding a printer in Vietnam who uses low impact environmental dyes, has been tough.

“We finally found, after intensive research, one modern and serious printer,” recalls Erwan. “They use Azo-free dyestuffs which are not harmful for even the most sensitive skin. And they respect our requirements.”

This is one of the problems, the time factor.

Being truly environmentally sustainable is a slow process.

“It takes us two months to produce ‘greige’ cotton fabric in India, two months to receive it, four months to work on the print and solids strike offs, six weeks to engrave our screens and to print and dye… Being a brand that produces from A to Z requires a lot more time, energy and effort than a brand that only takes care about the manufacturing process.

Credibility has a cost.”

Benefits for All From talking to both Alex and Erwan and hearing their passion, it is clear the garment industry fulfills all ends of present-day market economics. At one extreme sit the abusers, those who care about profit above all. They run or buy from the sweatshops of Asia, or they are the middlemen acting as go-betweens, bringing garments from poor countries to the big-brand powerhouses elsewhere. On the other extreme you get the producers and operators believing in sustainability, spreading benefits and ensuring that everyone reaps rewards. They protect the environment and care for the people who work for them — with almost zero global regulation. They are vital to bringing market-driven fairness to the industry.

Which brings us back to that early morning strike at the factory close to Hanoi. If only the workers had realised what kind of company they were working for. Maybe then they would have thought twice. But such is worker abuse at the hands of the textile industry, even in Vietnam where worker protection is strong, it is no surprise that their judgement erred.

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Dune 45 at sunrise

millions in Kenya and Tanzania, to the mother of all African safaris, a massive sixteen plus weeks of travelling the entire length of the continent from Cairo to Cape Town.

DESTINATION

OVERLANDING

AFRICA For those who’ve had their fill of the culture of Asia and the bright lights of Europe, an African safari seductively beckons. James Pham explores the world of overlanding. Photos by James Pham 54 | Word October 2012

A

n African safari inevitably figures on almost every adventure traveller’s bucket list, sandwiched somewhere between Antarctica and the Galapagos Islands. After all, who hasn’t dreamed of following the footsteps of intrepid explorer, David Livingstone, one of the first westerners to overcome deadly diseases and wary natives to cross the continent in the mid 1800s? Or Scottish journalist Henry Stanley, who with the help of 200 porters, forged through 1,100km of African jungle to finally meet up with Livingstone and utter the now famous greeting, “Dr Livingstone, I presume?”

For those who can afford to travel like ‘The One Percent’, the long distances between major centres and private game reserves are eaten up by flying in and out by way of a small aircraft. Some of the most exclusive lodges even feature gourmet dining, butler service and plunge pools while viewing animals right from the deck of your private chalet, sundowner in hand.

On the other end of the spectrum, there’s

DIY travel where families and groups can rent their own vehicles and stay in selfcatering rest camps. South Africa’s Kruger National Park alone has nearly 20,000km2 to explore, ensuring endless days of neck-craning, eye-crossing game viewing.

Somewhere in between lies overlanding.

Simply put, overlanding involves travelling with a guide and fellow passengers on a custom designed truck, and more often than not pitching tents in the evenings, eating over a campfire and going to places otherwise inaccessible by public transportation or prohibitively expensive to get to on your own. Think of it as a poor but fabulous cousin to the all-inclusive holiday.

Overlanding 101 Destination Overlanding destinations can be anything from two weeks of gorilla trekking in Uganda, to a month of taking in the ungulate migration numbering into the

Vehicle Outside of the major city centres, roads in Africa are notoriously bad necessitating serious power to forge through flooded passes, sandy bogs and barely-there paths.

The earliest incarnations of vehicles were simply second-hand army trucks with seats bolted down, a couple of spare tyres, food and some tents. While most modern overland trucks remain relatively Spartan with little more than a stereo, slightly more comfortable seats, lighting and the occasional card table; higher-end trucks come equipped with everything from lockers, a fridge, safes, battery chargers, and even the rare luxury of airconditioning. Whatever the truck, though, count on huge windows for game viewing and to enjoy the long days of monotonously gorgeous scenery.

Accommodation To keep costs down, most overland trips involve camping. Sites range from bush camps literally in the middle of nowhere to ultra basic ones with long drop toilets and pumped well water to surprisingly posh grounds, complete with swimming pools, bars and Wi-Fi. Approximately 50 percent of overlanders are single, meaning passengers share tents with someone of the same sex, thereby avoiding single supplements common to most other forms of travel. At some sites, there may even be the option to upgrade to a bedded tent, chalet or hotel room for a fee.

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Clockwise from top: Sparring impalas in Botswana, Moko sunset, Hinba boy, Polers

Participation The biggest difference between overlanding and other types of group tours is the participatory aspect. While most crews will include a driver and a guide (and even a cook, for the more upscale tours), passengers are expected to help out with daily chores, including food preparation, truck cleaning and other small tasks, in addition to setting up their own tent. For this reason, overlanding is normally limited to those 18 or over, with no upper limit as long as passengers are reasonably fit.

Cost Overland trips are usually paid in two parts — the cost of the tour to the operator and a local payment in cash (also known as a “kitty”) to the tour guide at the start of the tour. The kitty is used to pay for fresh food for the trip (usually purchased at supermarkets along the way), camping fees and incidentals. In return, almost everything is included: park fees, all meals and most activities. Travellers, however, still need to budget extra cash for snacks, visas and optional activities.

Fellow passengers While overlanders tend to be more adventurous — travellers rather than tourists — you could literally be sharing a hands-on group tour in tight quarters with just about anyone, from any country, any background, any age, with or without a language in common. Because you’ll be spending lots of time on the road with a group of 12 to 30 others, carefully researching your overland company is a must, as some cater to rowdy gap year students, some are family-friendly and others tend to skew towards higher-end (read: more mature) clients.

A Photographic Safari: Nairobi to Cape Town in 55 days Travelogue 1 Nairobi, Kenya to Serengeti National Park, Tanzania (368km) After a quick cold breakfast, our overland truck leaves the smog of Nairobi behind (colloquially known as “Nairobbery” due to the high crime rate) and head for

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Serengeti National Park, just beyond the border with Tanzania. We pass banana fields and local children, alternately calling out “Jambo!” and “Give me money!” After a long driving day, the magician of a cook conjures up a magnificent campfire feast of grilled lamb, Spanish rice, buttered carrots and roasted potatoes. In the night, we are giddily awoken by the plaintive whooping of a solitary hyena and the distant sound of lions.

Maasai for “Endless Plains”, the veldt of the Serengeti stretches as far as the eye can see, interspersed with bizarrely contorted trees. Shy giraffes in groups of more than 20 crane their necks to stare as our truck rumbles past on the uneven red earth. We come upon a solitary male lion hovering over a fresh wildebeest kill, watching in morbid fascination as he disembowels the luckless calf with bloody teeth. We quickly learn that game drives are an exercise in endless patience and sheer luck. Arrive three minutes before or after and you may have missed all the action.

Passing pools filled with hippos, only their ears visible, we suddenly find ourselves in the middle of a dense grouping of wildebeests, zebras and antelope, as far as the horizon in every direction, part of the annual migration between the Serengeti in Tanzania and the Maasai Mara in Kenya.

Hundreds of thousands of animals graze, shocking in their sheer number. Our necks ache from the constant panoramic swiveling of trying to take it all in.

Travelogue 2 Serengeti National Park to Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania (161km) In the morning mist, we transfer into jeeps to descend into the crater, an extinct volcano which long ago collapsed upon itself, leaving a caldera 22km wide, rimmed by mountains. The steep walls form a natural barrier keeping most animals in year-round. The pan-flat bottom makes finding the animals a gleeful task. In the rainy season, there’s a lake filled with thousands of bright pink flamingos (owing their colour to the algae and shrimp they eat). Groups of zebra graze only a short distance from where two cheetahs are sunning themselves and a pride of 14 sleepy

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Zebra's and Flamingoes at Ngorongoro Crater lions lie, simply a photographer’s dream. I have to remind myself to breathe.

Travelogue 3 Ngorongoro Crater to Zanzibar, Tanzania (822km) The truck rambles past snow-capped Mount Kilimanjaro on the way to Dar Es Salaam, the jumping off point for the semi-autonomous island of Zanzibar in the Indian Ocean. Known as the Spice Island (and the birthplace of Queen’s Freddy Mercury), Zanzibar is the leading exporter of cloves worldwide, in addition to producing nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper. But the main reason to come to Zanzibar is the beaches. Routinely rated among the top 10 beaches in the world, Nungwi, on Zanzibar’s northern coast, is simply perfection with its impossibly clear water and powdery white sand. One of four multi-day stops on the route, the group breaks up to go off on dives, watch the local women gather seaweed, visit the local fish auction, snorkel in the waters around one of the nearby atolls or simply lounge on

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Victoria Falls the beach. We end our stay navigating the labyrinthine alleyways of Stone Town, an old trading centre for cloves and slaves, in search of a cold beer that is impossible to find because the island has been without power for days.

Travelogue 4 Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania to Kande Beach, Lake Malawi (1,279km) Forgettable long driving days past lush tea plantations take us to Kande Beach on Lake Malawi, reportedly home to more species of fish than that of any other body of fresh water anywhere. The group decides to scour the local market for outrageous costumes pieced together from secondhand clothing in honour of the slow-roasted goat dinner the cook puts together that evening. Along the way, we buy bilharzia tablets (doled out according to body weight) to prevent the debilitating disease carried by freshwater snails endemic to the lake and fleetingly consider what we’re willing to risk for a respite from the muggy weather.

The 1.7km long Victoria Falls (locally called Mosi Oa Tunya, ‘The Smoke that Thunders’) marks the halfway point of the trip. The narrow gorge at the bottom of the falls sends up a spray of mist over 400m high. At certain times during the year, thrill seekers brave vertigo and the chance of plunging 90m onto the rocks below for a chance to swim in Devil’s Pool, a natural infinity pool literally on the edge of the falls. Other adventure activities in Livingstone, Zambia include bungee jumping off the bridge that connects Zambia to Zimbabwe, whitewater rafting down the Class 5 Zambezi River, walking with lions, and flying over the falls via microlight or helicopter. Needless to say, budgets are blown as we try to cram as many activities as possible into our short stay.

Delta, one of the world’s largest inland deltas, where we bush camp for three nights. A speedboat takes us the first leg of the journey, where we’re met by local polers with their mokoros (dugout canoes traditionally made from 100-year-old ebony or sausage trees, since replaced with environmentally-friendly fiberglass). For the next few hours, we slowly make our way through narrow waterways lined with papyrus reeds higher than a man, the only sounds to break the silence are the flapping wings of a surprised heron or the thwack thwack of the reeds snapping back into place, erasing any evidence that we were ever there.

The ebb and flow of the seasonal rains create temporary islands where we set up camp as a base for long game walks, mokoro rides past hippo pools or dips in a nearby swimming hole, ever vigilant for the stray hippo or crocodile.

Travelogue 6 Victoria Falls, Zambia to Okavango Delta, Botswana (678km)

Travelogue 7 Okavango Delta, Botswana to Opuwo, Namibia (1,063km)

We pack light as we head into the Okavango

The verdant landscape of Botswana gives

Travelogue 5 Lake Malawi to Victoria Falls, Zambia (1,463 km)

way to the dry, pale, almost post-Apocalyptic sandscape of Namibia. Our days are spent silently huddled around the waterholes of Etosha National Park or frolicking with captive-born cheetahs at a sanctuary for animals injured or poisoned by farmers. We make our way to a Himba village where we’re greeted by tribeswomen wearing leather skirts and not much else. The menfolk of this semi-nomadic people are nowhere to be seen, likely off tending to their cattle and goats. The women and children smell of leather and smoke and glow a reddish brown, thanks to a paste of butter fat and ochre liberally applied to their skin. We overnight just outside the village, enjoying every minute of interaction with these open and curious people.

Travelogue 8 Opuwo, Namibia to Cape Town, South Africa (2,189km) On the last leg of our journey, we make our way down the African coast, past towering sand dunes, rugged beaches and a colony of Cape fur seals — 250,000 strong. Immediately

upon crossing the border to South Africa, the roads gets better. Concrete houses replace ramshackle shacks, and there are wellstocked supermarkets in every town. Too soon we pull up to almost-European Cape Town with its celebrated vineyards and scenic beaches — an abrupt end to our epic journey through vast, unknowable, indefinable Africa.

The muggy, breezeless nights, ungodly early morning starts, interminably long days on the road and the relentless wrestling with tents in the dark are all but forgotten and before we know it, we’re uttering oaths to someday return to this beautiful continent full of frustrating paradoxes, smiling children, majestic wildlife and an endlessly big sky.

Africa has a strange way of seeping into your bones and becoming a part of you. Once is never enough.

To re-create this exact itinerary, see www. africa-in-focus.com, a small, upscale company that integrates photographic workshops and tutorials with small-group safaris. A member of the One Percent? Check out www.sand-andland.com for a fully customised trip visiting the world-class beaches and magnificent game parks of Tanzania and Zanzibar.

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SPECIAL FEATURE

The Old Maid Syndrome Derek Milroy discovers why single, thirty-something Vietnamese women may find it difficult to get married

S

he sits alone in her elegantlydecorated apartment in one of Saigon’s priciest downtown locations, sips a glass of expensive red wine and looks at photos of her friends on Facebook with their beautiful babies and sighs.

Thao is 35, attractive, has a great job and her life is as good as it gets for a strong, single, career woman. But that biological urge to bear children is getting stronger with each passing day and she can’t see a solution to her predicament. And she isn’t the only one as former UNE-Australia academic and researcher David Watson reveals. There is an epidemic of Vietnamese woman in their 30s like Thao — single and childless.

Watson, now based in Ho Chi Minh City, believes there are a number of reasons for this phenomenon. “There is a real shortage of men in Vietnam. This is because of movements to urban areas, perhaps by a disproportionate number of women, and the effects of the wars. The gender balance seems to be correcting itself, based on children under 15. That’s not very helpful for women like Thao.”

Watson reveals that the United Nations Population Fund has tagged the nation’s birth rate as not being able to refill the population.

The total fertility rate in Vietnam has fallen below the replacement level and may continue to decline.

“I believe the single women syndrome is a reflection of a declining birth rate and lack of single men,” he adds. “It severely dents their confidence and some Vietnamese women believe that they have not married because of ‘their destiny, family constraints and are too old’. In Vietnam it is difficult for women over 30 to get married.”

What Men Want Watson’s theory on why there is a severe lack of suitable men for women born during the baby boom from 1974 to 1980 is that culturally Vietnamese men on the

whole marry women around five to ten years younger than them. The other reason is the war.

He says there is nothing wrong with Vietnamese women physically in their 30s, who may even encounter their younger sisters in their 20s getting married and settling down before them. He says it is just down to fate. “These women have the bad fortune to be born during the baby boom after the [American] war. In Vietnam men like to wait longer to get married and tend to marry someone younger. That is a situation that no one can change.”

Consultant Thao knows there is nothing wrong with her but, like many Vietnamese women, is intrigued by the exotic and unfamiliar allure of foreign men who live and work in the city — and, indeed, many of these men if they are single and in their 40s are exactly the type of guys who would be keen on women like Thao. A match made in heaven some believe.

Not so for Thao, who after a previous disastrous relationship with a foreign man, thought it would be safer to marry a local man. But she feels this is never going to happen and may have to alter her thinking in a bid for contentment.

“Many of my friends have married foreigners and they seem so happy,” she explains. “I thought this would also be the case for me. [But] I am very wary of them, though, after I fell in love before with an American man who told me loved me and wanted to have children with me. But he had a wife back home. I now don’t trust western men.”

Thao adds: “My friends tell me I am beautiful, smart, have a good job and wonder why I sit alone when we go out for dinner. I get plenty of attention from men but I feel maybe I will always live alone.

I want children but I don’t want to bring them up alone. Children need a father. I may even move abroad to give myself a chance of happiness.”

Watson insists that some unmarried city women in their 30s are considering sleeping with a man with a proven track record of getting women pregnant ‘on their day’ just to have a baby. The man it seems is not part of the equation for these strong female types, who are possibly in the minority.

A Second Chance at Love According to a study by Asia-Pacific Research Network on Militarization and Impacts on Women — unmarried women and reproductive health, Hanoi, Vietnam, between the ages of 30 to 43, one percent of the population is male and six percent is female. That is the reason why the number of single women is higher than single men. Single women can be considered a group who suffer because of the aftermath of war. The study states that the burden is much harder to take for these women because of the fear of being alone as they get older. That fear makes many parents force their daughters to get married even earlier than the legal marriage age.

It adds that the sexual relations of unmarried women is a social problem at the moment and will be in the future.

This problem is related to society and reproductive health, and sexual health issues particularly in regard to unmarried women who either don’t believe in or are unsure of how to use contraceptives.

One member of a People’s Committee, interviewed during the study, said, “Rural women get married from the ages of 18 to 20. When they are over 23 years old it is quite difficult to find a husband because most men in rural areas get married at the age of 22 or 23. The rest go to cities for jobs and they do not want to get married with a village or country girl.”

“For Thao it seems maybe her suggestion to move abroad might be her best hope or she can take a risk and give another foreign man a chance. It might be her only hope,” Watson adds. “My wife did.”

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OUT & ABOUT

SUNDAY BLOODY SUNDAY

BOOMARANG CR-2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Q7 (left) Score: 4.2

When it comes time to nurse that morning-after pain, don your most ridiculously oversized sunglasses, pop two aspirin and head to these spots. Reviews by Julian Ajello

T

he Bloody Mary is famous for its reputation as a hangover cure, often enjoyed during Sunday brunch by those who made a night of it on Saturday. While there is no scientific cure for a hangover, the Bloody Mary is a fine treatment indeed. There are many variations, but the traditional recipe is a mixture of vodka, tomato juice, lemon juice, pepper, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, and sometimes a dash of cayenne. This is then poured over ice in a tall glass with a celery stalk garnish. A proper Mary should have some thickness and consistency to its texture as well as a cloudy red colour and pack some spiciness. The origins of this

blessed elixir are almost as cloudy as the drink itself.

George Jessel, an American comedian and entertainer nicknamed the Toastmaster General of the United States, claimed to have invented the drink in his Palm Beach, Florida home one Sunday morning in 1927 after a long night of drinking. It was a simple concoction of tomato juice and vodka.

Ferdinand Peitot, an American bartender, claimed ownership while working at Harry’s New York Bar in Paris, France, in 1926. Peitot later brought the drink with him to the King Cole Bar at the St Regis Hotel in New York City where he tinkered with the recipe by adding spices and other ingredients and the

Located at The Crescent, this establishment was nudged off the top of the list by the narrowest of margins. Using Russian Standard to fuel their beverage, they were the only bar to use fresh horseradish to spice things up, and spice things up it did! The texture was very consistent, but it could have been just a little thicker. Using the heart of celery for a garnish is that little extra attention to detail, which Bloody Mary devotees will appreciate. Its beautiful colour is on display in a hurricane glass, the Little Black Dress of stemware, making for an attractive presentation. You won’t want to stop at one, and at VND120,000 you won’t have to. These competitors from Down Under have to be taken seriously as their bar staff has been well-trained and cannot only compete with the best, they can beat them as well.

drink evolved into what we enjoy today.

He hinted in one interview that he built on what Jessel created rather than starting from scratch, but Jessel was often doubted as his reputation to spin a yarn was well earned.

Both men have long since passed away taking the truth of the origins with them.

People will have to gratefully settle for them leaving their legacy behind for us to enjoy.

The drinks in this contest were judged according to seven categories: taste, texture, colour, spice, garnish, presentation, and overall value compared to one another, each on a scale of 1 to 5. Like many Olympic events, this contest’s medal winners were separated by the narrowest of margins.

ON THE PODIUM THE DECK CLOUD 9 Levels 6 & 7 Hai Nam Bldg., 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Score: 4.25 Piquant is the word that best describes the Bloody Mary found on one of Saigon’s most popular rooftops. Using Belvedere vodka, it offers a bold taste that allows the horseradish and Worcestershire to punch through. It was a bit thin in texture, but it was fairly consistent and the taste was spectacular. Fresh celery and lime is a simple yet perfect garnish, and the tall stemware gave it an elegant presentation. For VND120,000 it offers solid value for your money, especially when you add in the rooftop environment. Well-known throughout the city, Cloud 9 flexed its considerable muscle and didn’t disappoint when put to the test.

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38 Nguyen U Di, Q2 (right) Score: 4.1 The Deck surprised the judges with the most original presentation, scoring a perfect 5 in that category. Served in a rocks glass, the unconventional layer of foam that blankets the top of the drink is what will nab your attention. It’s a concoction whipped up from fresh green tomatoes and egg yolks. It suspends the spices on top while inviting you to mix it in to thicken the texture and add the spicy black pepper punch. It comes garnished with a lemon wedge and thin cucumber slice, which while not ideal, is satisfactory. Poured with Grey Goose and costing VND140,000, this Bloody Mary was a very tangy entry and was as much fun to drink as it was delicious. Visit for the cocktail, stay for the waterfront brunch.

JASPAS WINE & GRILL 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 (left) Score: 3.3

JUST SHORT OF GLORY

Located next door to Vasco’s, Jaspas Wine & Grill served up a decent drink. It offered an acceptable texture, although it could have been more consistent from top to bottom.

The spiciness was its highlight. It popped immediately to satisfy that Sunday morning craving for burning lips. The colour should be deeper and the garnish of a lone lime slice will disappoint those who enjoy munching on a celery stalk after emptying the glass. However, using Stolichnaya and charging a mere VND90,000 per drink scores in value.

With just a few adjustments to the recipe here and there, and a proper garnish, they’ll be ready to light up a Sunday morning.

VINO No. 1, Duong So 2, Q2 (right) Score: 4.0 A pleasant surprise was the District 2 establishment, Vino. A quiet little nook perfectly suited for a Sunday breakfast, Vino boasted the spiciest Bloody Mary in the field. For those who like it with more zing, you won’t be disappointed. They use freshly squeezed tomato juice as well, which lends itself to a more pleasing texture and colour. The cucumber and lime garnish was pleasant, and the cucumber was of sufficient size to snack on when you’re done. The lemon juice was a tad on the heavy side, but not upsetting. Using Smirnoff vodka, they charge VND80,000, easily making this the best value we sampled. This Aussie underdog gave the big boys a run for their money.

ALIBI 5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1 (right) Score: 3.2 Located in District 1, Alibi pours a Bloody Mary that looks wonderful, but needs the inside to catch up with the outside. The texture was smooth and consistent. While the colour was rich and opaque, and the garnish of celery and a large, red chilli served up in a tall glass was visually appealing, the taste fell just a bit short.

It was far too mild to satisfy a serious Bloody Mary drinker. Alibi uses Smirnoff vodka and charges VND120,000 which sets it back in value from some of the others as well.

BACK IN THE PACK VASCO’S 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 (left) Score: 3.4 Leading the rest, Vasco’s presented a solid version. With a light, murky colour, this drink exploded with black pepper. It was a sublime sensation that was as consistent as its texture from top to bottom. The crisp, fresh, leafy celery stalk was simple and satisfying. The presentation was solid, but they need to lighten up a bit on the lemon juice. Where they really lost points on the judges’ scorecards was in value. Pouring Absolut vodka is acceptable, but at VND160,000 they’re overcharging. A more reasonable price, and just a bit of tinkering, would bring them closer to a podium finish.

2 LAM SON 2 Lam Son Square Q1 (left) Score: 3.0 This version was the most vexing of the bunch. The taste was delightful and savoury, sure to put a smile on your face.

Fresh celery garnish, decent presentation, and a smooth and consistent texture all gave it the makings of a frontrunner. And while it could use a bit more spice, that alone wasn’t enough to relegate it to the bottom of this list. Where this drink got crushed was in value. Even a generous pour of Belvedere vodka does not warrant charging VND240,000.

Have we missed your favourite recovery spot? Let us know in our Inbox.

64 | Word October 2012

October 2012 Word | 65

MYSTERY DINER THE PRICES

O critic finds out if the sushi at Tamago is worth Our tthe trek to An Phu. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

Tamago 39 TONG HUU DINH, .Q2 TEL: 3744 4634

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"I

rasshaimase!” Boom! The shouted traditional welcome yanked us out of Vietnam and into Japan, or at least, a small slice of it in the form of Tamago, a pretty little place nestled in the leafy otherworld suburb of District 2.

As well as the bellowed greeting, we were met by twinkling fairy lights, a curved wall painted in a deep bambooblue-green and the image of Mount Fuji daubed just outside the entrance. The bamboo that has been manipulated to partially obscure the Perspex upper wall that keeps the exhaust fumes out also manages to create an intimate yet spacious outside dining area that this ‘burb is known for.

Admittedly a haul from the epicenter of Japanese dining on Le Thanh Ton, like many other establishments in the area Tamago aims to be family friendly, hence the fairytale play house and toys piled in the corner. The canopy above is also handy should the weather do what it does best at this time of year.

Off the Menu A really affordable draught beer in hand, we took a look at the menu which does resemble that of most other Japanese restaurants in the city, but sensing our indecision the helpful waitress/sister of the owner advised us to go with one of her own creations, the off menu tuna dish which appeared to be called maguro sarada as well as our additional choice of shrimp ebi gyoza. Our starters didn’t disappoint.

The tuna salad was a brilliant mix of sashimi chunks mixed with tiny fish eggs and spicy soy sauce. Mixed together and served with green caviar that pops in your mouth, it won us over with its silky smoothness and a taste that thankfully didn’t cancel out that of the fresh fish.

The ebi gyoza were not quite as impressive and although the shrimp held its own, the additional ingredients proved to be a bit dry and slightly bitter. Despite this, a great little dipping sauce helped, full of toasted sesame seeds, as did the crispy outer shells of the dumplings themselves.

EBI GYOUZA VND89,000

With so much to choose from, yet again our waitress came to the rescue, suggesting dishes here and there, as well as telling us which fresh fish or shellfish they had that day, saving us the disappointment of having to reorder later. We opted for the red clam nagiri Hokigai sushi, largely due to its candy like appearance, tempura tonkatsu, deep fried pork cutlet, and a mixed kushi yaki of beef, pork and chicken skewers.

A Touch of Sauce You’d have to be a magician to make deep fried pork cutlet anything other than it is, but where Tamago won through was, as with all of the dishes we ate that night, the sauces. The accompanying sauce has more ingredients than I or the waitress can describe, but it’s excellent and worth dipping your face in should you run out of pork. Unctuous but light, the sauce can and should be used for everything, its tangy kick simultaneously sucker punching right through the heady spice of

its underbelly.

The BBQ skewers had mixed reviews.

On the one hand they satisfy that chargrilled need for blackened meat, but on the other the meat itself wasn’t the best in terms of texture and more fat was present than we would have liked. The beef was tender and tasted like the fire only a BBQ can summon. The sauce, a different one this time, a standard tare, was a nice way to tie all the different meats together, and what the dish may have lacked in meat, it more than made up for in flavour.

Tamago may not be able to beat its District 1 counterparts on price, but the ambience, space and friendly personal service do, in my mind, outstrip many of them. Although they offer a takeaway service, which for non An Phu denizens comes with a minimum order value of VND500,000, It’s very much a place to make a night of it with your family, whether that means just you and the kids, or you and 10 of your closest friends. After all, the beer is cheap which will certainly

help. The only thing standing in your way is mobilising the troops and getting them over the river, but then again you’d be surprised how many hungry people you can fit in a taxi when the need arises.

Itadakimas!

Food, decor and service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15: 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair

MAGURA SARADA VND119,000 MIXED KUSHI YAKI VND129,000 HOKIGAI SUSHI VND89,000 TONKATSU VND109,000 DRAUGHT BEER VND39,000 THE VERDICT

12 15 13 FOOD

SERVICE Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

DÉCOR

SOUND & VISION

OH THE HORROR! The camp and outlandish production of The Rocky Horror Picture Show makes its first outing in Vietnam later this month. Words by Lyra Dacio.

Photos by Kyle Phanroy

T

he Lab, a greenhorn in the Saigon performing arts scene, is taking on the British rock musical, The Rocky Horror Picture Show for their debut production. Originally called The Rocky Horror Show, until its adaptation into a movie in 1975 it was shown in the Royal Court Theatre in London from 1973. The music and lyrics were composed by actor Richard O’Brien, which tells the story of a newly engaged couple who gets caught inside the home of a crazy scientist and his mad creation, Rocky Horror.

At the helm of The Lab is drama teacher Ingrid Berry from the International School

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of Ho Chi Minh City. Ingrid has been involved in the arts since teaching drama and directing at schools in her native New Zealand. This year she relocated to Saigon to join her mother, Jacqui Aaynov. And like mother, like daughter, Jacqui, who is currently teaching music at The Australian International School, has some 20 years of experience in teaching music and the performing arts. For the production, Jacqui will take on the role of Magenta as well as seeing the musical direction.

A series of inspirational moments brought The Rocky Horror Picture Show to life. The pair

was previously involved in Saigon Players’ dinner-theatre show Trouble at the Tropicabana early this year at Gaudi Restaurant, and fueled by its success and with Halloween approaching, thought it was the perfect timing to stage the production. Jacqui stumbled upon Bon Mua Restaurant, with its high ceilings and sweeping balcony over the dining area, as the perfect venue for the show.

The Show Must Go On A lucky encounter with fellow teacher Allistair Quirke, who had played Dr Frank N. Furter in a previous adaptation and knew

Richard O’Brien, cemented the first role casting and set the wheels in motion.

Aside from the fact that the show requires a number of cast members to be able to act, sing, and dance — getting everyone’s schedules to jive was one of the hurdles that the production faced. Most cast members have day jobs and mandatory acting workshops were added to help the actors understand their roles better. The cast spends weeknights and weekends perfecting their lines.

While the setting was perfect, the acoustics and lighting posed problems. The sound in Bon Mua Restaurant bounces and is further affected by the open area facing the river.

Lighting fixtures were needed to create the ambience that the show required, especially with the restaurant’s high ceilings and dark balcony area.

For The Lab, it’s not just about a dinner and show. The essence of The Rocky Horror Picture Show is about drawing the audience into the story.

For five nights, an ordinary Vietnamese restaurant will transform itself into a house of horror and glam rock. The costumed staff will be joining the revelry serving drinks and food named after the characters. Show bags will also be handed out by the door and the audience is encouraged to dress-up as their favourite character from the show.

They have had a rocky start for sure (finding

someone to play Rocky took a bit of a time, too), but such small bumps may just be the jolt the cast needs in making the horror very real for the audience come opening night.

CAST OF CHARACTERS Allistair Quirke as Dr Frank N. Furter Simon Gamewell as Rocky Jackie Kehoe as Janet Georgie Cochrane as Brad Antoine Kubler as Riff Raff Patrick Hughes as the Narrator and Dr Scott Jacqui Gaynor as Magenta Tra Nguyen as Columbia Chris Miller as Eddie Pianist: Rebecca Kim Transylvanians/Chorus: Ismael Avila, Emma Avila, Nik Deshpande, Stuart Turner, Celine Crocrat, Le Thi Kim Loan, Nhan Khans Nguyen, Thao Truong, Heather Robinson Director: Ingrid Berry Production Manager: Jennifer Dizon Musical Director: Jacqui Gaynor Costume Design: Tony Miles Set and lighting: Lothar Make-up: Ismael Avila

SHOW SCHEDULE Oct. 31 — 7pm Nov. 1 — 7pm Nov. 2 — 8pm Nov. 3 — 8pm Nov. 4 — 7pm Tickets are VND600,000 and cover food and cocktails. They can be purchased at Bon Mua, 189A1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. For more info, please email ingridberry@gmail.com.

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Love AT

FIRST

SIGHT DON’T KNOW WHAT TO WEAR ON THAT FIRST DATE? WE’VE PUT TOGETHER SOME OUTFITS TO HELP YOU TO LOOK YOUR BEST AND IMPRESS, NO MATTER WHAT YOUR PERSONALITY IS

PHOTOGRAPHS BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY MODELS: ALBIN DEFORGES & HANNAH LAMBIE Shirt: VND1.3 milllion; shoes: VND1.77 million. Both from L’usine.

Jeans: VND2 million; jacket: VND3.4 million. Both from Levi’s

Shirt: VND979,000; jacket: VND1.48 million; trousers: VND979,000. All from Mango

Shirt: VND2.2 million from Levi’s. Cardigan: VND2.4 million; trousers: VND1.21 million; shoes: VND2.46 million. All from L’usine

Dress: VND1.12 million; cardigan: VND779,000; shoes: VND599,000. All from Mango

Levi’s, B1 Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, Q.1 | L’usine, 151 Dong Khoi, Q.1 | Mango, 40 - 42 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Shirt: VND1.3 milllion; t-shirt: VND900,000. Both from Levi’s.

Trousers: VND1.21 million; shoes: VND1.85 million. Both from L’usine

Dress: VND1.48 million; shoes: VND1.9 million. All from Mango

Top: VND2.35 milllion; shoes: VND3.12 million. Both from L’usine.

Jeans: VND1.7 million from Levi’s

Top: VND600,000; shoes: VND900,000. Both from Mango Jeans: VND1.7 million from Levi’s

C

G N I V I L MP

6

deas ing i p m a eat c s of gr n ience o i t exper elec s g n s i i th camp k out ble your e k Chec joya a n m e p e l he mor it to even and k

8

7 1 3

2

10

4 9

1. Coleman sleeping bag; VND690,000; Coleman (3F, Crescent Mall, Ton Dat Tien, Q7) 2. Hot and cold bottle; VND425,000; Lock & Lock Plus (4F, Crescent Mall, Ton Dat Tien, Q7) 3. The North Face backpack; VND800,000; U.Best House (163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1) 4. Wire saw; VND100,000; www. shop.phuongnguyen.info 5. LED Lenser H7 head torch; VND1.2 million; www.shop. phuongnguyen.info 6. Helsport Rondane tent; VND3.8 million; www.hanhtrangdulich.com 7. Compass; VND99,000; U.Best House (163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1) 8. Coleman flashlight; VND1.33 million; Coleman (3F, Crescent Mall, Ton Dat Tien, Q7) 9. Leatherman Sidekick multitool; VND900,000; www.shop. phuongnguyen.info 10. Living box; VND658,000; Lock & Lock Plus (4F, Crescent Mall, Ton Dat Tien, Q7) 11. Army water bottle; VND250,000; U.Best House (163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1) 12. Bushnell Elite spotting scope ; VND43.6 million; www. thegioiongnhom.com

11 5

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City Guide BUSINESS LISTINGS LISTINGS 078 078 / DESTINATION DESTIN INATION BUSINESS LISTINGS 086 LISTINGS 086 / OUT OUT & ABOUT ABOUT LISTINGS LIS ISTINGS 096 096 / SOUND & VISION SOUND VISION LISTINGS LISTINGS 114 114 / LEISURE LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS WELLNESS LISTINGS 120 120 / LIFESTYLE LIF IFESTYLE LISTINGS 129 LISTINGS 129 / GENERATION GENERATION V LISTINGS LISTINGS 136 136 PHOTO BY CHARLES BARNES

AD D I T I O NA L F E AT U R E S

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Destination Zero 088 Travel Promos 094 Foodie Corner 104 Food Promos 112 In The Frame 114 For The Record 115 Road Rules 116 Decks 'n' Drums 117 October 2012 Word | 77

BUSINESS

LISTINGS

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 078 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 078 BUSINESS CONSULTING 080 BUSINESS GROUPS 080 CONSUMER GIFTS 081 EVENT MANAGEMENT 081 EXPAT SERVICES 081 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 081 INSURANCE 082 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 082

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BUREAU VERITAS E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 2196 www.bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions firm working in all the major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC. Has over 900 offices worldwide in 140 countries.

DELOITTE VIETNAM 11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0751 www.deloitte.com/vietnam A member firm of Deloitte Touche

KPMG

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 082 LAUNDRY 083 LEGAL SERVICES 083 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 084 MARKET RESEARCH 084 PUBLIC RELATIONS 085 RECRUITMENT & HR 085 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 085 SERVICED APARTMENTS 085

Tohatsu. Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3827 0220 www.globaleye.com A financial advisory company that advises on everything from investments, offshore banking and education planning to life protection wills, pensions and more.

Globaleye provide an invaluable resource for expats living in Vietnam who want to maintain tax efficient savings while having access to major fund houses such as Fidelity & JP Morgan from only VND3 million a month, and also to have the right insurance protection for families living on foreign soil.

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9266 www.kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides executive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED 7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: 3812 5562 www.odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions, as well as tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years of experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES 6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

TMF GROUP Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 2262 TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services.

Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam.

This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING ADMAKER Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3910 3500 www.admaker.com.vn A local full service agency run by advertising professionals dedicated to providing clients with results orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

BATES 141 VIETNAM Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1 Tel: 3821 8632 www.bates141.com A full service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group.

Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 6662 www.bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

COWAN – STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN 16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 3064 www.cowandesign.com Specialising in brand strategy and brand

design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies.

Wholly owned with seven global offices — three of which are in Asia and working extensively across India, Southeast Asia and North Asia.

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM 13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn Draftfcb is one of the largest global advertising agency networks with headquarters in both Chicago and New York. Has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries including many in the region.

EDGE MARKETING 1Bis Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 3911 1191 www.edge–asia.com A creative marketing company that matches the results–driven requirements of modern business with the needs of the consumer. Embraces a wide range of modern technology and concepts to help provide a full–service marketing package to their clients.

GREY GROUP 404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3929 1450 www.grey.com/vietnam A full spectrum marketing communications company, Grey Group’s work includes PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Has offices in nearly 100 countries and major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA Villa B,12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: 3740 6388 www.industrialdesignasia.com Offers (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for all products; plastics, consumer products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia. Contact them to get a free quotation.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM 113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1, Tel: 3914 3615 www.marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented campaigns that have been selected as global best practice by both international and local clients.

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9529 www.ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know–how with a worldwide network.

Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

PHIBIOUS 7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 6777 www.phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company growing fast throughout Indochina. Now with offices in Saigon, Phnom Penh and an association in Vientiane, Phibious employs over 70 staff that are driven towards helping brands connect and grow in this dynamic region.

Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3898 1005 www.purpleasia.com A leading independent creative communications company. Offers a wide

78 | Word October 2012

range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

RED | BRAND BUILDERS 10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: 3820 0169 www.red.vn Long established, branding consultancy and marketing agency. From Vietnam to Australia, the red team create and shape unique brand personalities that add impact to international and local brands.

The team regularly share industry trends, news and views at red.tm/blog.

RIVER ORCHID Tel: 3925 2538 www.riverorchid.com The only communications network specialising in Indochina including Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade. Riverorchid specialises in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 3 Phan Van Dat, Q1 Tel: 3824 1207 www.saatchi.com 60th among the top 100 global advertising agencies, the company has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world. Services include advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting, graphic design and advertising.

TBWA\VIETNAM Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3824 5315 www.tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, named Advertising Age’s “Best International Network of the Decade” in 2010 and ranked 24th on Fast Company’s 2009 list of “The World’s 50

Most Innovative Companies”. Marketing services include strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

TYA VIETNAM 3rd Floor, Lafayette Building, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3956 www.tya.com.vn Established 1982 in Japan, TYA is a strategic creative agency with a growing network across Asia Pacific.

TYA uses this strength to match clients’ diverse business strategies. Their international team offers the TYA brand of strategic creative that strives to satisfy clients' business objectives to the fullest.

XONE FM 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 5341 www.xonefm.com The first independently run radio station in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest and hottest songs in both English and Vietnamese. Has 10 channels throughout the country, in Ho Chi Minh City on 104.5 FM and Hanoi on 102.7 FM. The schedule runs from Monday to Friday from 6am to 9am, 4pm to 11pm and at the weekends between 1pm and 11pm.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS 37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, el: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities

business for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3823 7858 www.bdg–vietnam.com BDG is one of the leading business development and consulting company in Vietnam active in the areas of sourcing & production, strategic marketing and Project Management. Partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open new perspectives, address critical challenges and drive business activities to success in Vietnam. BDG is a private company with four offices in three countries.

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

DL TECHNOLOGIES 69A1 Tran Ke Xuong, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3551 2260 www.dltechnologies.com.au DL Technologies provide premium integrated technology solutions with emphasis on local “on the ground” support from a highly skilled and continually trained international team.

Services include background music systems, lighting management and control systems, security & access control systems, premium audio and video with automated controls, discreet audio and video, home theatre, iPad-based home control / audio video control systems, air-conditioning control and energy management systems.

business ERNST & YOUNG

and business behaviour skills.

8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk.

Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES (VIETNAM) COMPANY LIMITED

GOLDEN SPEED SEO www.goldenspeedseo.com info@goldenspeedseo.com Get maximum exposure for your website by improving your rankings in search engines like Google. A steady flow of potential clients will visit your site every day once you have achieved a good position on search engines' results pages.

Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

GRANT THORNTON 28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants working in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0916 352573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Huong Nguyen is a professional Image Consultant based in Ho Chi Minh City and the UK. An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette

8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3829 6416 www.prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering technical expertise in the areas of data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Specialist intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services. From the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services, include IP filing and management services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com Incorporation of offshore and foreign– owned Vietnamese companies. Opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts, providing licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing.

Also provides, investment strategies and administration services for foreign-owned companies based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0904 410884 www.strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL is a strategic solutions provider serving as a long-term strategic partner with senior leaders and organisations in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Focuses on the future, striving to deliver superior results, customer value and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions, derived from a combination of research-based best-practice, consulting and learning with a focus on change, people, strategy and leadership.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD 164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 6291 2205 www.tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia. Their core strengths are corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion, and market

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research. Offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Thailand, China and India.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development.

Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3562. www.amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Ho Chi Minh Chapter, Suite 1A, 1st Floor, TV Building, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0272/ 73/ 74 www.auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group in Vietnam established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating here. AusCham co–ordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations, and promotes profile charity events in Vietnam.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 8430 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums about doing business in Vietnam. Offers an array of seminars as well as social and networking events.

NORDCHAM 12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com Provides support to Nordic companies

and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM C3 Floor 5, 21-Century Apartment, 326/1 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh www.pbgvn.com A non-profit, non-government, and non-political organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding, to serve as the voice of Philippine business entities and establish relationships with other business associations in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcm.org A group with over 300 members who meet regularly to foster business relations with others in the community, as well as taking part in social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities. Hosts regular networking functions and special events. Membership is VND200,000 per month and allows you access to a wide range of discounts around town.

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2 Tel: 3744 6996 www.swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a nongovernmental, non-political, non-profit organisation that strives to promote business, economic, cultural activities and other interests of common concern to the Swiss Business Association’s members and the Vietnamese authorities.

CONSUMER GIFTS AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD. 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3824 8364 manish@ambrij.com www.ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and much more.

EVENT MANAGEMENT EVECOO Tel: 0988 297990 www.evecoo.vn Evecoo provides everything needed to plan, supply, organise, publicise, improve and implement a successful event. Evecoo gives every client specific attention and adds the needed magic to make any

event memorable.

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6048 www.galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall in the centre of District 1 has four different ballrooms and a rooftop terrace, professional banquet, catering, and event services.

Gala Royale is the ideal place for events such as meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings, or anniversaries.

MR BOUNCY INFLATABLE GAME HIRE 50/8 Hoa Binh, Q11 Tel: 0165 6392 507 www.mrbouncy.com.vn Mr Bouncy is an inflatable game hire company, offering great products hiring out a number of inflatables such as waterballs, bouncy castles and many more great items for parties and events.

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO.,LTD 268/3-5 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan binh Tel: 6675 2620 www.vietnam-weddings.com One World Tourism’s wedding planning business offers comprehensive wedding planning services in Vietnam no matter what size or type of wedding. It is offered to couples seeking high quality, attention to detailed planning and resources, wanting to create the wedding of their dreams, no matter what size, style or location.

PHOTO OI! Tel: 01269 502790 www.photooi.com Photo booth rental service that combines digital photography and instant photo printing using only top-of-the-line equipment and materials. Photo Oi! Sets up a booth at any event complete with backdrop and fun props that everyone can use.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering.

Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to provide the ideal solution for any kind of event.

EXPAT SERVICES CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7237 www.chumshouse.com A service dedicated to finding people a place to live. With an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference, they can have you moved

into a new house within days. Help with motorbike rentals, visas and other information about living in Vietnam is also available. All services provided free of charge.

HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916 www.happy-house.vn Created by a team of Vietnamese and expat professionals, Happy House aims to make life in Saigon easier for everyone by offering practical solutions for a myriad of problems, including monthly bill payments, home repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering, computer repair and pet transportation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross–cultural and business awareness training.

EASY SAIGON www.easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

HOUSINGINTERACTIVE Tel: 6255 6774 www.housinginteractive.com HousingInteractive offers an easy-touse, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website allows users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time. Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news.

Also does research and management services.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 3529/3530 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management, and support services.

CREATION International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 6291 7553 A real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sales, leasings, rentals, free brokerage and aftersales service.

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 4707 www.cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy. For further information email hcmc.info@ ap.cushwake.com.

Real value in a changing world

JONES LANG LASALLE VIETNAM 26th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3968 www.joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a financial and professional services firm specializing in real estate. We offer integrated services delivered worldwide by expert teams to clients who seek increased value by owning, occupying, or investing in real estate.

As a truly global firm, we work and collaborate closely with our colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to our clients in Vietnam.

Our offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 6777 www.knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896 as a valuations, surveying and auctions business, Knight

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business Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0989 00 77 00 www.namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions, decorations in HCM city especially in District 2. Supporting the professional services and after–sales.

PLATINUM1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com This American–based company provides a range of comprehensive real estate services. Known for its efficient and dependable service, it has global connections and expertise in the Vietnam real estate market.

SAVILLS VIET NAM LTD. Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is the leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and many other services.

SNAP www.snap.com.vn A simple, web–based real estate search service. Provides information on rental properties all around the city with full listings available online.

listing properties available for rent and sale. Service is orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

TRANSPO PROPERTY (VIETNAM) Suite 501, Anh Kim Office Building, 43 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3914 7003 http://vietnam.transpo-property.com Transpo Property specialises in finding a suitable residence for their clients, as well as offering a full range of relocation services including school search, preview trips, orientation tours, and whatever else one may need when moving to Vietnam. Also provides a home search service to expats who are already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and centrally located facility, in your home, office, or over Skype.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE Tel: 3825 8416 www.interglobalvn.com Offers full hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits.

Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. Available for anyone up to 74 years of age. No claims discount available.

SPOT 18/34b Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 955 877, www.spotvietnam.com Native English speakers specialising in rentals and tenancy management. Spot offers quick and easy complimentary services from start to close.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3520 2000 www.sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and for lease in Vietnam and around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901 www.thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM Lau 8, River View Tower, Thai Van Lung,Q 1 Tel: 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.

Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance.

To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IF CONSULTING 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: 3827 7362 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top

reputable medical insurers to provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3812 5125 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1800 599 998.

PRUDENTIAL Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL 1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3823 9355 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP www.ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering ‘real’ alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t–wm.com Personal financial planning for expatriates. Portable retirement savings plans for individuals of all nationalities.

Tax minimisation strategies. Asset allocation and money management. Debt and cash–flow planning. Life, disability and health insurance. Family wealth protection.

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9930 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages

the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO EDUCATION & TRAINING 26 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: 3823 3597 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers high– quality and cost–effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

BELL VIETNAM 28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 www.bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM 51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3838 6788 www.ilavietnam.com A foreign owned education and training company that offers a broad range of educational programmes and services such as English language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training, and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L'ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492 www.latelier-anphu.com L’Atelier is a French language centre offering classes in all forms to children and adults, and to French-speaking and foreign residents. Each course is offered in small groups of a maximum of four people or in private class. Classes include spelling and grammar tuition after school, monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), and Vietnamese lessons, including extra-curricular activities during the holidays.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and central school, in your home, office, or over Skype.

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: 3910 0168 www.vlsstudies.com A leading professional institution specialising in teaching Vietnamese to international students. Courses range from basic conversational Vietnamese for beginners to upper elementary,

intermediate and advanced levels, as well as a range of special courses that take in Vietnamese literature, composition and a crash-course 6-hour survival session.

Courses range in intensity and classes take place on and off campus.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION (NOTARIZED) 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6678 0914 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

VUS 189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3925 9800 www.vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected non–governmental language institutions in Ho Chi Minh City. The English language training programmes are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York. Has a number of campuses throughout the city.

LAUNDRY COSMO LAUNDRY & DRY CLEANING Office: 80 Nguyen Khoa, Q4, Tel: 6261 6868 Valet shops: Circle K Store, 15B1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1; 36 Su Van Hanh, Q5; CRII, The Crescent, Q7; Shop & Go Store, RMIT University 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.cosmolaundry.com Cosmo Laundry & Dry Cleaning offers professional and reliable laundry & dry cleaning services for executive officers, expatriates and business associations in Ho Chi Minh City.

MICKEY LAUNDRY 203 Bui Vien, District 1 29 Hung Gia 4 St, Q7 F4 Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 2244 4466 Now in three convenient locations, Saigon’s leading laundry does wash and fold, dry-cleaning and ironing, along with a range of specialised services including spot removal, colour dyeing, tailoring, repairs, leather cleaning and business shirt service. Free pickup and delivery.

MR CLEAN 16 Tran Khac Chan, Q1, Tel: 2218 8111 www.mrcleanvietnam.com Mr Clean offers dry cleaning and laundry services for everything from wedding and ball gowns, suede and leathers to suits, shirts and jackets, and handbags and luggage. Repairs and alterations and shoe cleaning are also available. Using an oil-based solvent to ensure longer lasting clean clothes, Mr Clean offers free pickup and delivery and same day service.

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provide on–the–ground

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BUSINESS

BUFF

THE ECONOMIC BENEFITS OF BEING BEAUTIFUL

FRASERS LAW COMPANY Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com The first legal firm to receive a foreign law company license to operate in Vietnam, Frasers Law Company is an integrated team providing international legal advice in a Vietnamese context on all areas of business and commerce to leading global and local companies investing and operating in Vietnam. Ranked in the top tier of international law firms practising in this jurisdiction. Monthly newsletter available by email.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL (GLN) A.A.R.P.I.

IT SEEMS THAT THE BENEFITS OF BEING beautiful are never ending (or so I am told by my beautiful friends). Better service, no lining up to get into the best nightspots plus being the object of desire in all situations. And now to add insult to injury, a 2011 US report has shown there is also a real monetary benefit too. Over an average lifetime, a US$230,000 (VND4.8 billion) monetary benefit. It’s pause to be full of loathing.

The study conducted by Dr Hamermesh, an economist from the University of Texas, Austin, has proven that being beautiful means earning more money, finding higher paying jobs and better looking spouses. It even helps you get better mortgage deals.

But before you run out to get a quote from the plastic surgeon, justifying it as an investment with great returns, let’s look at the findings in more detail.

were paid on average US$300,000 (VND6.3 billion) more than their playing statistics alone would suggest. All adding up to a boom for beauty that, in America, is worth US$33 billion (VND693 trillion) a year.

Another interesting finding was that more people were rated as good rather than bad looking, and that there is more dispersion in perception of women’s beauty than in men’s.

Overall the earnings advantage of good-looking workers — as compared to the roughly 50 percent of workers whose looks were rated as average — was eight percent for women and four percent for men, while the disadvantages of being bad-looking in comparison were four percent for women and 13 percent for men. The negative effects are bigger for men than for women, a finding that has been observed elsewhere.

SKIN DEEP? The good news is that it’s not just all about beauty. Skinny men, for example, earn less than their more rotund equals, while just the opposite is true for women. Men 30kg over the average weight earned nearly 30 percent more, while women 30kg under the average weight earned 56 percent more.

Being tall also helps — tall men take home significantly higher salaries then their shorter colleagues, with men over 1.83m earning US$5,500 (VND115 million) more a year than those at 1.65m. Women who wear a ‘glamorous’ amount of makeup are perceived as more competent, likeable and trustworthy than those who go for a ‘natural’ or ‘no makeup’ style.

Sports stars are not immune either — NFL quarterbacks with good looks

SELF-ESTEEM The most interesting discovery was how this is related to self-esteem.

Males who were tall at the age of 15 earned significantly more than those who grew to the same height but later in life, suggesting much of the difference is linked to the development of confidence in the teenage years.

Another study showed that teachers saw unattractive students as less intelligent, and aggressive acts less naughty if done by attractive children.

In the words of the author of the report: “It would be a fairer world if beauty were not rewarded. But it is.”

— By Shane Dillon Shane works in Vietnam in financial services industries and studies economics in his spare time. He can be contacted at shane.dillon@t-wm.com

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business liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 8599 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services that combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established at the end of 2006, the firm assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN JSM 17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 8860 www.mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994 with offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the firm provides clients with the full range of legal services in all areas of business including corporate, real estate, banking and finance, and all forms of inward investment.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRAINBOX VIETNAM 5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6920 7405 www.brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

EMBERS ASIA 4th floor, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn Based in Singapore with campuses located throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes and corporate training to bachelor programmes in finance, business management and tourism and hospitality management, all the way through to the 12-month MBAs awarded by the Australian Institute of Business Administration.

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9919 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients.

Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development. Well-known for their MBA programme which can be taken both part and full-time.

company with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties.

Nielsen has a presence in approximately 100 countries, with headquarters in New York and Diemen in the Netherlands.

MANPOWER VIETNAM

TNS VIETNAM

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT

105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel: 3821 5727 www.tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customised, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PUBLIC RELATIONS

XAGE CONSULTANCY

MANDARIN MEDIA

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development.

Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

www.mandarinmedia.net A public relations, marketing and IT company with offices in Saigon, Hue and Portland (USA). Led by a team of seasoned journalists, Mandarin Media generates news and features about your company in English–language newspapers and magazines worldwide.

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3822 7727 www.cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

EPINION 11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4 Tel: 3826 8989 www.epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company that operates the largest online panel in Vietnam and offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH 3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6965 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

MEKONG RESEARCH 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 6314 www.mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997.

Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices.

Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis, and trade promotion.

SYNOVATE VIETNAM 13th Floor, Room 1312, Khumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 6288 8785 www.synovate.com A global market research company that drives competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies.

With offices in 64 countries, Synovate combines global research capabilities with a personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific requirements.

NIELSEN CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: 3997 8088 http://vn.nielsen.com Nielsen Holdings N.V. (NYSE: NLSN) is a global information and measurement

MASS GROUP 30 Dang Tat, Q1 www.massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand–building consulting.

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: 3838 5517 www.matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam.

Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility, and media and issues management and training.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA) 1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 2220 2989 www.universalmanagementasia.com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 6291 0462 www.veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues/ crisis management.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS 37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, Tel: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

RECRUITMENT & HR HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is currently one of the top three HR consulting firms in Vietnam, specialising in matching senior level professionals to top opportunities in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Other services include: payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3911 0950 www.manpower.com.vn Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3820 3115 www.mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing. Works within a wide variety of industries.

NAVIGOS GROUP 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 3925 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

OPUS VIETNAM RO 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups, with over 30 offices worldwide.

ROBERT WALTERS VIETNAM 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 7900 www.robertwalters.com.vn Robert Walters Vietnam offers a highly professional and specialised recruitments service. With 47 offices in 23 countries, Robert Walters holds an established track record with Asia's leading institutions, from multinational corporations to smaller enterprises. The Vietnam office specialises in permanent jobs across these disciplines: Sales & Marketing, Technical Healthcare, Accountancy & Finance, Banking & Financial Services, Human Resources, IT, Supply Chain, Engineering and Oil & Gas Technical.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM (formally Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 9488 www.towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Online jobsearch website with probably the best selection of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS 2nd Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 3454 www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services.

In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL (VIETNAM) LTD. 9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4., Tel: 3826 7799 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers are the largest regional move management specialists with partners all over the world, with services including door to door moving, housing and school

finding, local and office moves, and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 4237 www.crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: 3826 7655 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES – VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: 3941 5325 www.logicalmoves.net Specialists in international moves for household goods and used personal effects through our global partner network. Also local, domestic and office moves. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Email Chris Honor at chris@logicalmoves.net for further information.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com Resident Vietnam is the first dedicated relocation company with 11 years of experience in Vietnam and provides full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED 7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: 3826 8850 www.seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam. SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3, Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments for long-term lease, each unit comes fully furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay and range from VND11,825,000 to VND16,125,000 per month. This is inclusive of two gas cylinders, five big bottles of water per month, daily usage of water and parking, thrice-weekly apartment servicing, ADSL Internet, and access to the fitness centre.

CITYVIEW 12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3822 1111 www.cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown with 69 fully–furnished apartments. Facilities include a gym, a pool room, a kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 8888 www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana

Saigon is the InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences with 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area and is part of the brand-new Kumho Link Asiana Plaza, the city’s finest integrated food and beverage complex featuring commercial, residential and luxury shopping arcade.

JASMINE COURT 307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh www.jasminecourt.com.vn Located five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with only 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes.

Amenities in each apartment include a 32” LCD TV, DVD player and audio system, in-room safe and wireless Internet with broadband connectivity, and a four-fixture en suite with shower.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3822 6111 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers clients a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steamroom, as well as two on-site restaurants — Shang Palace and Terrazzo Café.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside–apartments.com Four–hectares of nature on the bank of the Saigon River where all can enjoy the lifestyle of a resort with all the luxury amenities of a fully serviced-apartment.

Located within minutes of the downtown area by high speed boat shuttle service.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one– to–three bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes. Have a range of residential facilities including a gym, squash court, business centre and Minimart.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3823 2288 www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property in Ho Chi Minh City and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9197 www.somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court and Somerset Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a toprated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

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destination

DESTINATION LISTINGS

DALAT 086 HANOI 086 AROUND HANOI 086 HCMC INTERNATIONAL 089 HCMC DELUXE 089 HCMC MID-RANGE 090 HCMC BUDGET 090 HOI AN & DA NANG 091 HUE & QUANG BINH 092 NHA TRANG 092 PHAN THIET & MUI NE 093

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

PHU QUOC 094 SAPA 095 VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO 095 TRAVEL SERVICES 095 COLUMNS DESTINATION ZERO 088 TRAVEL NOTE 092 TRAVEL PROMOS 094

has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa and reasonable prices to match.

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$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com This luxurious and tranquil sanctuary of relaxation is nestled on the gentle and picturesque slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Offering 65 rooms from 17 original French colonial villas, rates start at just over VND 2 million++ and rise to over VND6 million++ per night. Top-notch services and facilities include a personal butler on call from 7am to 10pm, in-villa dining and the La Cochinchine Spa with a range of holistic and therapeutic treatments.

BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA CREDIT

$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and every modern amenity, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

$$

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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HANOI CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

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$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 3827 999 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in the centre of town, this no-frills budget hotel offers 12 basic but nicely decorated and clean guestrooms, all with free Wi-Fi. Rooms start at VND300,000. A coffee shop can be found on the ground floor and the hotel offers airport pickup, bicycle rental, tour information, a laundry service and business centre.

DALAT PALACE

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$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 382 5444 www.dalatpalace.vn Overlooking central Dalat, the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain further afield, the city’s top and most classic hotel still maintains its original 1920s style and charm. Has 38 rooms and five suites, a gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie serving international and local cuisine, a piano bar, Larry’s Bar in the basement and five meeting rooms.

DREAMS HOTEL 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private hotel has made it justifiably popular.

You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from VND500,000 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

LA SAPINETTE DALAT

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$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat Tel: 3740 7512 www.lasapinette.com Situated in the centre of Dalat’s famous Liang Biang Plateau, La Sapinette is a first class hotel with traditional, French art nouveau-styled décor. Also has a modern commercial centre, complete with stateof-the art facilities, 91 rooms including one and two-bedroom apartments.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat Tel: 063 382 2663 www.thesinhtourist.vn You get door–to–door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it

and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi–Fi connections available.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com Just on the side of beautiful St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a good, comfortable mid–range hotel. Each of the 10 rooms is fitted with cable television, Wi–Fi and a mini bar. The staff is quite helpful and can arrange tours and tickets to many destinations surrounding Hanoi. With room fees starting at $40 a night, and topping out at $50, the small boutique– style hotel offers quite a deal.

FRASER SUITES

MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 8877 Fax: 04 3719 8811 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com Strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is ideal for expatriates who desire a home close to work, and yet offers repose from the bustle of the city. The gold–standard serviced residence is in the Westlake district, an enclave preferred by foreign executives and their families and close to a good selection of quality restaurants, gourmet food shops and decent bars. $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969 www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) daily, replenished minibar and snack basket service in every room.

Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails.

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MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Maison d’Hanoi provides an elegant respite from the traffic and noise of the city. They have 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have Wi–Fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.4 million for a guest room to VND4.4 million for a suite.

HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL $ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com The cheapest European–style place in town, with bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers, also has a second hostel at 9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem (Tel: 04 3935 1890) close to all the latenight Old Quarter bars and eating spots.

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SOFITEL METROPOLE

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$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambience of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL CREDIT

HANOI HILTON

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this five–star is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that once housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top–end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. Presently undergoing extensive renovation.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

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$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 7566 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good no–frills option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact with small but clean bathrooms

AIR ASIA www.airasia.com AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

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$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com Located only 50 meters away from Hang Cot, the newly built Marigold Hotel Hanoi elegantly combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with a modernised classic facade. The Mimosa Wine Bar & Pub, an Irish bar complete with nightly live Irish music, is located on the top floor, providing excellent views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

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GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

AIRLINES

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$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Hanoi Tel: 04 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property, this 24-storey, mixed use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

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DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

is a fairly basic place to rest those weary feet, but it’s right in the middle of town.

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free Internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness centre with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relaxation lounge and VIP massage room.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY $$$ 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Q3 Tel: 3933 0077 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with

AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com EVA AIRWAYS 4th Floor, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 4488 www.evaair.com JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com

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VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK $ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and home to the well-known national primate centre, the accommodation here is in modern rooms, stilt houses or detached bungalows. Includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre and on the road linking the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude–cruises.com This comfortable yet accurate reproduction of a 19th–century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in small but impeccably maintained cabins. They also offer transfers from Hanoi itself. A great, classic experience.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam–aventure.com This eco–village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in 10 houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills.

Has its own spa and restaurant.

LA VIE VU LINH $ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 (Freewheelin’ Tours) info@freewheelin-tours.com www.lavievulinh.com Located 170km northwest of Hanoi and on the banks of Thac Ba Lake, this bamboo-constructed eco lodge close to Yen Bai is situated in one of the most tranquil and visually stimulating areas in Vietnam. Set in a Dao Quan Trang ethnic minority village, accommodation is either in the main stilt-house area or in the rammed earth rooms and starts at VND250,000 per night. Offers a whole host of activities including lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours and walking trips into the surrounding mountains.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com Located in a lush valley home to indigenous Vietnamese minority groups, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is a luxurious alternative to the stilt house homestay accommodation offered close by. Has all the usual western amenities in a beautiful setting and every room has a view of either the mountain, lake, pool or valley.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 03 3384 8108 www.novotelhalong.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay

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DESTINATION

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destination cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including the pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

HCMC INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth–floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

DUXTON HOTEL

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$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Right in the middle of town, the Duxton deserves its luxury appellation with all the features the tired business executive needs including pool, gym, spa, bar and fine dining. The rooms and suites are luxurious. Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets.

EQUATORIAL

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Only a ten-minute drive from downtown Saigon, this big and businesslike property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also has some of the biggest banquet facilities in the city and an on-site casino.

Van Long Nature Reserve W

hen it comes to natural beauty, particularly of the limestone karst surrounded by water variety, Vietnam seems to have it in alarming abundance. Halong Bay, Phong Nga-Ke Bang National Park, Tam Coc, the Perfume Pagoda. This is just the start. So it comes as little surpise that with so much competition out there Van Long, just a short drive from Hoa Lu in Ninh Binh, barely gets a mention.

What this means is that this wetland nature reserve, one of the last strongholds of the fabled and almost extinct delacour’s langur, remains refreshingly devoid of tourists. It also means that those eeking out a living off tourists remain genuine, friendly and unaffected: a pleasant change in a country where money-wielding holidaymakers get the walking cash machine treatment.

The Sampan The adventure starts on entering the gates of the reserve. A VND15,000 fee gets you inside. Bamboo boat or sampan rental, rower included, costs a mere VND50,000 for an hour and a half. It's a trip that takes

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you across a shallow lake and through the complex of mountains that form the reserve. Not only is it peaceful — here the only noise you'll hear is the cawing of birds, the calls of the langurs and the sound of you or your companions’ voices — but you sense that life here is no different to how it would have been 100 years ago. The first fisherman we come across is collecting crabs. He shows us the crawling, pincerwielding contents of his bucket. And later on we see another fisherman, hand-made bamboo rod in hand, reeling in his catch.

As we pass between two mountains into a fresh stretch of water there is a small cry from the boat in front. The only other canoe here during the period we're touring the karsts, they've spotted two langurs. Sat on a tree way up on the summit of a mountain, we don't have a clear view of these twostomached mammals that pre-date the evolution of the monkey, but they are certainly visible. The giveaway is the white fur on their rumps and legs making them look like they are wearing trousers. Take a telescope at sunrise or sunset and you will get a clear view — sightings of the 40 or so animals in the reserve are common.

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HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

Returning to the dock the conversation moves to living surrounded by such beauty but never really appreciating it. “The problem,” says our oars lady, “is that we spend half our time worrying about filling our bellies and those of our family. Only once that need is satisfied can we become aware of it.”

Fortunately for this lady, tourism, or what little there is of it, and the arrival of the Emeralda resort on the edge of the reserve have helped her and her family move beyond the stage of just satisfying their basic needs. Let's hope others are also reaping the rewards.

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$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1 Tel: 3925 7777 www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn A five-star luxury hotel with 334 rooms and suites, and 53 serviced apartments.

Offers excellent services and facilities for both business and leisure travellers, including 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity grand ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool and gym, Japanese and Chinese restaurants, an all day dining restaurant, and 24-hours room service. Also provides city shuttles, airport transfers, city tours, currency exchange, limousine service, ticketing and mail services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

floor Italian-themed Opera, and Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

$$$$ Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Intercontinental Asiana Saigon is an exciting destination in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Personalised services await guests in each of the 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a stylish Presidential Suite. The hotel offers signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE

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LEGEND HOTEL

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$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com You’ll notice the difference when you first enter the lobby here – the architect was in serious atrium mode when he drew up the design. There’s no shortage of space in the rooms, either, and a fine selection of dining, from buffets (the atrium again), to Chinese, Japanese and western.

MOEVENPICK HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.movenpick-hotels.com Located a stone’s throw away from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, this tastefully decorated Swiss-run hotel possesses 278 well appointed rooms and suites, five restaurants and bars, meeting and banquet facilities. The shopping arcade, and popular e-gaming centre make this a preferred option for both business and leisure travellers.

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NEW WORLD HOTEL

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Bi Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous–looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation as has the ground

$$$$ 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissance–saigon.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus Kabin, one of the best– regarded Chinese restaurants in the city.

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REX HOTEL

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$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3829 2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history and still possessing a certain fading charm, the Rex is now mainly populated by tour groups, while for the independent traveller it has been comprehensively overtaken in value terms. But its open–air fifth–floor bar is still one of the must–do experiences of the city, and there is now a great gym and spa area on the sixth floor as well. A recent renovation and the addition of the new wing has seen the entry of the top-end designer brands to the shopping arcade of this now five-star property.

SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first–class facilities topped by an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is the ultimate in French lifestyle, comfort and convenience.

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon caters to upscale business and leisure travellers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

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THE AU CO, BHAYA CRUISES $$$$ Tel: 04 3933 4545 www.aucocruises.com The Au Co offers the first and only continuous three-day voyages in the Gulf of Tonkin. The first-class twin vessels

feature state of the art design, each of them containing 32 spacious and luxury cabins, all with private balconies. The on-board cuisine follows a traditional concept and incorporates the five natural elements, with a relaxing jacuzzi and spa treatments and numerous exciting enroute activities.

WINDSOR PLAZA

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$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Definitely the hotel with the most – its own shopping hub (including a bank), the city’s second biggest discotheque, several restaurants, a sauna, health club and business facilities, and superb panoramic views over the city when you take time off from all the other activities and make it back to your room.

HCMC DELUXE CONTINENTAL

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$$$ 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental–saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the most classic of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

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$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn This hotel makes you think of words like classic, traditional, vintage and colonial. Overlooking the Saigon River, and recently renovated to international standard, it retains a unique atmosphere which makes it especially memorable for newcomers to the city. The rest of us just take advantage of its cheap buffet lunches.

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 648/65 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3 Tel: 3846 0263 hotel@mamaison.vn Just a short alley from the Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ma Maison Boutique Hotel caters to demanding clients of both long–term expats and French art aficionados. The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside.

Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in–house guests on a French farmhouse wood table surrounded by modern leather and CREDIT

Information Van Long is approximately 90km south of Hanoi just off provincial highway TL477, a short distance from Highway 1. There are two accommodation options on the edge of the nature reserve — the three-star, Van Long Resort (www.resortvanlong.vn) and the beautifully set-up five-star Emeralda (www. emeraldaresort.com). Built like an imperialstyled Vietnamese village, the latter has been designed to merge into with the wetlands environment of the reserve.

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ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTURES Soc Son Tel: 0164 3876 594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 06 1366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

destination ladder–back chairs. Ma Maison provides full services– business centre, internet, housekeeping, laundry, room service and limousine.

NORFOLK HOTEL

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$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 info@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Located minutes away from famous landmarks, shops, restaurants and international companies, Norfolk Hotel is a good choice for buisness and leisure travellers. Recently renovated the sleek new design is reflected in the lobby space and in their ground floor bar and steakhouse, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3822 4479 www.novotel.com Novotel Saigon Centre features 247 contemporary rooms, an international buffet restaurant – The Square, a lobby lounge, a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including swimming pool, fitness, CREDIT

JUNGLE BEACH Nha Trang Tel: 05 8362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

LA VIE VU LINH Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

MANGO BAY

BIKE RENTALS

Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 07 7398 1693 www.mangobayphuquoc.com

MIA NHA TRANG Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 05 8372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

$$

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club. The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2km from the city centre and 3km from the airport.

SABENA HOTEL

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$$$ R3–60 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 1000, www.sabena.vn Located on a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the brand–new rooms at Sabena are equipped with all the latest in–room technology perfect for making your room a combined office and home away from home. A good choice for anyone seeking accommodation away from downtown Saigon.

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$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3999 8888, www.starcitysaigon.vn A brand new hotel located near Tan Son Nhat International Airport with 185 guest rooms each with city views and comfortably designed outdoor swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, restaurant, bars and meeting rooms that cater to 400 people.

An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

Ha Giang Tel: 0219 38 33 3565 www.panhou-village.com

RAMANA HOTEL

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STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

MEKONG LODGE

PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT

sauna and spa. With five meeting rooms and over 400m2 of space that can accommodate up to 350 persons, Novotel Saigon Centre provides expert support teams and facilities that will ensure successful business meetings and events.

HCMC MID-RANGE CHI’S CAFÉ 40/27 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/month.

Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter.

NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pick-up.

SAIGON MOTORBIKE 203 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat.

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals. Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

HOTEL IBIS SAIGON SOUTH $$ 73 Hoang Van Thai, Phu My Hung, Tan Phu, Q7. Tel: 5410 1111 H7177-RE@accor.com www.ibishotel.com The first International three star hotel in Saigon, Ibis Hotel is within walking distance of global corporate offices, FV hospital, other medical centers and shopping malls. It features 140 stylishly designed rooms with timber floors, complimentary Wi-Fi internet access, a restaurant, bar and three meeting rooms. A free return Ibis scheduled shuttle bus is available from the hotel to major corporate offices as well as into the city center.

The open restaurant serves a variety of pasta, grilled food and a touch of Asian cuisine prepared in front of you as you eat. There is something for everyone at affordable prices. There is also an option to create your own recipe from the items listed on the menu.

Ibis Saigon South is located in front of Saigon Exhibition and Convention Centre (SECC) and is 15 minutes from the city centre.

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KIM DO ROYAL CITY HOTEL

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$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5914 www.kimdohotel.com You’ll never have trouble finding your way back here at night – perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the exterior is brightly lit and the interior follows suit.

A quality venue where no amenities are lacking – we’re talking executive Jacuzzis

here. Use internet bookings to slash the cost of your room.

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid– range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few minutes from the street–level mayhem of the Backpackers’ area.

HOI AN & DA NANG CUA DAI

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family–run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air–conditioned rooms and amiable staff.

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$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining and spacious gardens on the bank of the Saigon River. Located in Thao Dien Village, also has a number of restaurants on hand including an Italian, Thai and Japanese.

HCMC BUDGET CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

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$ 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3, Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn Though possessing only five rooms, Cam Ly’s hotel section comes very reasonably priced. A double room costs under VND400,000 per night while a large double room and a twin room are both priced at under VND700,000. With 24-hour security, all rooms come with cable television and ADSL Internet access. For cleanliness, comfort and safety, Cam Ly is one of the best no-frills options in the city. See our Business listings for an overview of Cam Ly’s studio apartments.

DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi–Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street–level mayhem of the backpacker area.

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DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: 8373 699 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: 0511 3961 800 www.danangbeachresort.com.vn This resort, 20 minutes away from the airport in Danang, comprises six areas of villas with beachfront, golf and mountain views, a 33–floor twin tower, three five– star hotels, a convention and commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village.

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FURAMA RESORT & SPA $$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

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HUY HOANG 1 $ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being

an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

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$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 0511 398 1234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com Located 15 minutes by car from Da Nang International Airport, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is situated on a stretch of beach with a view of the ocean and the Marble Mountains. Has 200 guestrooms featuring modern designs with oversized balconies and floor to ceiling windows. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private Ocean Villas, each with a private pool.

INTERCONTINENTAL DANANG SUN PENINSULA RESORT $$$$ Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang Tel: 0511 393 8888, info@icdanang.com www.intercontinental.com/danang With its own private bay on the Son Tra Peninsula, the Bill Bensley-designed InterContinental Danang is nestled within one of the region’s most exquisite locations. All 197 of the resort’s rooms, suites and beachfront villas are designed to take full advantage of their location and panoramic South China Sea views.

Large terraces and shuttered windows elevate private living spaces that draw in the surrounding jungle and crystal bay, and add depth to the already large rooms that start from 70sqm.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

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$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, if you’re looking for something a bit different, the

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA $ 171A Co Bac, Q1, Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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HONG HOA $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 1915 It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked–away little venue is on a par with anything else in the area – attractive, comfortable, friendly and more. Plus there is free Internet access.

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SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: 3827 4648 Take advantage of the free WiFi offered in every room at this venue where you’ll be impressed with the low prices, friendly CREDIT

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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destination secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional–looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer.

There is an endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG $$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 511 3958 888 www.lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is family-friendly resort. The design of the guest rooms and amenities, quality of the food, ambience of the bar and restaurant and the dedication of service of the resort’s staff has all been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion.

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TRAVEL NOTES WORDS BY JAMES PHAM

Future Travel Trends THE 8TH EDITION OF THE International Travel Expo was held in Ho Chi Minh City on last month, bringing together more than 500 participating companies from more than 30 countries. If you weren’t able to get to the show, here’s a taste of what you missed, indicating that 201213 will be an exciting time to travel.

EVERYONE WANTS A PIECE OF VIETNAM The tourism boards of at least four different countries described Vietnam as a “new”, “potential” or “emerging” market. Because the Southeast Asian economy has done slightly better than in some other areas, countries in the region are still focusing on developing the short haul sector. Destinations seek to entice Vietnamese travellers with promises of experiences not available locally, for example the chill of autumn and winter in places like Taiwan, the happiest place in Southeast Asia aka Disneyland Hong Kong and the Asia meets Europe meets 5,000 years of history in Turkey.

However, the lack of direct or budget flights was lamented as an obstacle to rapid growth.

The Death Of Packaged Tours?

Vietnamese have traditionally travelled as part of large tour groups owing to the difficulty of overcoming the language barrier and obtaining visas. However, Poonsak Udomlurtlak of Indochina Explorer foresees Vietnam moving away from packaged tours as more and more people are able to speak English and as countries relax entry requirements. In addition, with a direct bus service from Phnom Penh (Cambodia) to Bangkok set to begin in October, overland travel into Thailand will become faster and more affordable for many.

ECO TRAVEL ON THE RISE Very noticeable at the expo was the emphasis on eco / nature travel. For

some destinations, it was an obvious sell, such as Sabah (the easternmost Malaysian state located on the island of Borneo) known for its beautiful beaches, wild orangutans and rafflesia, the largest (and some say, smelliest) flower in the world. But even Hong Kong, touted as one of the most densely populated places in the world, is getting in on the action. The Hong Kong Tourism Board is promoting outdoor activities on Hong Kong’s more than 260 islands, many of which are little more than fishing villages with no cars allowed. Alec Chan of the Hong Kong Tourism Board says, “People don’t know this, but you can get from the 100-storey buildings in the city centre to the countryside with hiking and camping in only 45 to 60 minutes via ferry”. Myanmar, who sees mainly business travellers from Vietnam, is also quick to point out that they own the only snow-capped mountains in Southeast Asia. Vietnamese travellers may take some convincing, however.

“The Japanese are more mature travellers, so they’re interested in nature,” points out Gordon Yapp, from the Sabah Tourism Board.

DOMESTIC HOLIDAYS Not to be outdone are destinations within Vietnam. Chau Thi Kim Phuoc of Michelia Hotel in Nha Trang feels there’s still potential for more tourists.

“Just look at all the construction happening. There’s going to be a Crowne Plaza and a Best Western Premier and many others”. In addition to the large Russian contingent, the city is expecting more Korean tourists, especially since July saw the first direct Seoul - Cam Ranh flights. Most impressive, however, may be the US$4 billion Ho Tram Strip in Vung Tau. Currently, oil industry workers and their families occupy up to 50 percent of some hotels. Early next year, that may all change with the opening of the MGM Grand.

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life–resorts.com Recently refurbished, this award–winning leafy and well-appointed resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

MERCURE DANANG

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$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: 0511 379 7777 www.mercure-danang.com Located on Green Island in the heart of Da Nang city, the Mercure Danang is only 10 minutes from the International Airport.

Consisting of 272 modern and stylish rooms reflecting local Vietnamese culture, all rooms feature ocean or mountain views. The hotel offers all day dining at their brasserie as well as a Chinese restaurant and lobby bar and lounge.

Conference facilities are available as is a private spa, treatment rooms, tennis court and fitness centre. The hotel offers complimentary shuttle to the city centre and Danang Beach.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000, www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, The Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial–hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high–rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la–residence–hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark–stained wood furnishings, this is traditional art deco Indochine at its best.

Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub–VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick–up from Nha Trang and the down–to–earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633, www.mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary of rest and relaxation is set on its own private beach. Based on ecofriendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs instead of tiles or differing roof coverings, enhancing the environmental appeal.

The 50-seaview rooms are split between luxurious villas and condominiums that blend contemporary living with slight Indochina influences.

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NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 625 6900 rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com This attractive four-star hotel is centrally located with 154 guestrooms, each with terrace and sea view, offering a pool, spa and restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. One of the best run hotels in town.

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SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY CREDIT

RUSTIC CHAY LAP $ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh www.chaylap.org Situated on a peanut and maize farm on the doorstep of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge and farm offers homestay-style accommodation in the middle of a rural, ethnic minority Vietnamese environment. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking, caving and chilling out in the shadow of some of the most spectacular limestone karst scenery that this country has to offer.

Booking needs to be made through tour operators - email chaylap@gmail.com for details or check out the website.

SUN SPA RESORT

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh.

An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six–Senses–Hideaway– Ninh–Van–Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top–drawer.

So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at around VND15 million for a beach pool villa.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: 058 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front hotel with 284 sea view rooms and suites, complimented by six restaurants and bars. The hotel also has a Sheraton Club Lounge with spectacular views, Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool area, a fitness centre, a kid’s club, a business centre and a cooking school. For great view of the city, head up on high to the rooftop bar.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL & SPA

COCO BEACH

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn With various awards, including being listed in the World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009 by Expedia, and in view of the current facilities, location and its anticipated strong branding and service from the heart, Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa is ideal for the medium to higher end individual leisure and corporate travellers. All rooms have a view of the sea.

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7111 www.cocobeach.net The place that put Phan Thiet on the map is still one of the best options for a stay, with charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant. Coco Beach is continues to be run by the European management team that began it all in 1995.

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 384 7440/2 www.miamuine.com Set on one acre of manicured lawns and lush gardens, this luxurious haven of rest and tranquillity offers four different accommodation types, all featuring en suite bathrooms, cable TV, IDD telephone, safe box and air conditioning. Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows looking out to the South China Sea. The resort’s Xuan Day spa offers a selection of therapeutic body treatments while the beachfront Sandals restaurant serves a blend of dishes from the Mediterranean and Pacific Rim.

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501, www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. On-site seafood restaurant and bar.

WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT & SPA

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$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 058 3670 670 www.whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean and a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants including one where you can pick fresh seafood and then have it cooked, a swimming pool and a spa. Service is both professional and friendly.

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3743 777, www.allezboo.com This resort offers exotic and luxurious accommodation including two Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas and 55 spacious suites and deluxe rooms. Fresh seafood, Vietnamese specialities, Thai food and international cuisine are served in their many dining areas. The resort also offers outdoor activities including kitesurfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

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MIA RESORT MUI NE

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DU PARC PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES & GOLF RESORT $$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3822 393 www.phanthietresorts.com This resort offers access to a first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo. Great food and service is offered in this 123–room escape destination featuring private balconies with ocean or golf view.

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PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com One of the few all–villa luxury boutique resorts in Vietnam, Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four–hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country. It’s definitely one of the most exclusive.

SHADES APARTMENTS $$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 374 3237, www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and good dining options.

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VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 381 3000 www.victoriahotels.asia Part of the Victoria chain which has properties in Vietnam and Cambodia, this high–end resort with thatched–roof bungalows and family villas is set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a top–end seafood restaurant, and a spa, beauty salon and Jacuzzi right on the private beach. An excellent place to stay located just before you reach the main stretch of resorts in Mui Ne.

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322, www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its new luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar.

Viet Nam Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA CREDIT

Cua Dai Beach, Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels.asia Pull up some (private) beach and relax at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

HUE & QUANG BINH HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers.

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason–anamandara– nhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT CREDIT

$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6567 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa, this is the cheapest European–style place in town. Has bunk–style beds in mixed or

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang), Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable

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travel Promos destination

OCEAN HOSPITALITY Ocean Hospitality has launched the Double the Hotel, Double the Luxury promo. A special combination package of StarCity Saigon and Sunrise Hoi An, under the combination package guests staying consecutive three nights at Sunrise Hoi An will get one night at StarCity Saigon for a very special rate of VND1,260,000 for a single or double occupancy with buffet breakfast. It also offers complimentary airport transfers.

Enjoy seven nights or more at Sunrise Hoi An and you can get one free night at StarCity Saigon. Valid until Oct. 31.

Email resa@sunrisehoian.vn and rsvn@starcitysaigon.vn NOVOTEL NHA TRANG Daily buffet dinner at The

Square restaurant brings you opportunities to try delicious dishes from around the world.

Monday: Asian buffet with Chinese, Japanese, Malaysian, Korean and Vietnamese foods.

Tuesday: International buffet.

Wednesday: Thai buffet with delicious Thai cuisine including: tom yum gung, green curry chicken, sweet sticky rice with mango and many more.

Thursday: Vietnamese buffet with delicious dishes from three regions of Vietnam. Friday: Italian buffet: fresh Italian pasta, pizza, risotto, tiramisu cake, ice cream. Saturday – Sunday: Seafood buffet. Priced at VND420,000++/person (food only). Buffet with free flow of wines: VND900,000++/person.

Buy a package that includes a body scrub, a natural facial and get a free full body

destination VILLA ARIA MUI NE

See more at wordhcmc.com

massage. Costs VND1,490,000 per package. Valid from Oct. 1 to Oct. 31 at Vous Spa. www.novotel-nhatrang.com

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$$$ 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660, www.villaariamuine.com The newest boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Villa Aria Mui Ne provides warm service with only 22 spacious guestrooms and one suite. Using only natural amenities in every room for a luxury experience, the resort includes a nice pool overlooking the beachfront, an alfresco dining lounge serving authentic Phan Thiet cuisine and more.

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT

SUNRISE NHA TRANG BEACH HOTEL & SPA The hotel will organise two nights of Oktoberfest from 5.30pm to 10pm on Oct. 5 and Oct. 6. The two-day Oktoberfest will feature free flow Bitburger beer, an array of German dishes and live music.

Feast on varieties of smoked German sausage, sauerkraut, sauerbraten marinated beef and pretzels, and a seafood BBQ and fresh salads. There are also live music programmes and funny games to round off the night. Ticket price costs VND537,000++ per adult. www.sunrisenhatrang.com. vn

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: 077 398 0998 www.beachclubvietnam.com A small and popular guesthouse located 15 minutes south of the airport offering simple yet well-appointed accommodation with rooms at VND630,000 and bungalows at VND840,000 per night. Features a beachside restaurant and includes free WIFI. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

BO RESORT $$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 6142 www.boresort.com, booking@boresort.com Conceived and operated by a French– Vietnamese couple, BO Resort lies on the west of Phu Quoc and is quiet, low–key and secluded. An eco–lodge concept, there are no televisions or air–con and future plans include hot water by solar panels. 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay. Bathrooms are tropical, open–air style. The beachside restaurant is well–known and includes traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on fresh seafood and products, prepared with an unmistakable classic ‘French touch.’

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid– back and simple. And cheap.

SAPA CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas–eco–lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco–cred.

Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

VICTORIA SAPA

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522, www.victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from VND2.8 million per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO BINH AN VILLAGE

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$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla–resort.com Open since November 2008, this Italian-run, 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first–class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant. One of the few top-end properties on Phu Quoc.

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: 064 335 1553 www.binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this glamorous, Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has a calming and elegant boutique atmosphere. Has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining and a bar strategically located on the cliff to watch the sunset.

LA VERANDA

CON DAO RESORT

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$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773982988, contact@laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery branded La Veranda has beautifully– designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

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MANGO BAY

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3830 939 www.condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island on the edge of the main town, this beachfront resort is a good option thanks to its reasonable pricing and coconut-

shaded sand. Has the standard range of mod cons.

GRAND HOTEL

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$$$ 2 Nguyen Du, Vung Tau, Tel: 064 385 6888 www.grand.oscvn.com This four-star iconic property stands proudly along the tree–lined seafront and has added modern amenities to its spacious rooms, along with a large restaurant, first–floor bar, fitness centre and business facilities.

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT & SPA $$$$ Tel: 064 378 1525 info@hotramresort.com www.hotramresort.com Located along the coastal road in Ba Ria– Vung Tau Province, this attractive, Hoi Anstyled property is the ideal getaway from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City.

The resort is highlighted by a selection of 63 uniquely designed Indochine bungalows and villas that promise a local experience with international–standard accommodation. Also has an excellent spa facility and two swimming pools.

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HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: 064 3781 631 www.sanctuary.com.vn Just 45 minutes north of Vung Tau, the classical but contemporary elegance and refined atmosphere of this leafy villa complex provides guests with a home away from home. Perfect for renting with groups of friends or as an extended family, the spacious villas each come with their own pool and many have direct access to the beach. Facilities include tennis courts, water sports, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

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REX HOTEL

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$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: 064 385 2135 www.rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge. Rooms start at VND900,000.

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel : 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao/ The first five-star resort on the Con Dao archipelago, this unique property pays homage to the remoteness of its natural environment by being deliberately sandwiched between the sea, beach, mangrove and mountains behind. 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay here,

each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage.

TRAVEL SERVICES ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS 7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia Pacific. Join now and save.

ASIANATRAVEL MATE CO. LTD 113C Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3838 6678 92-94-96 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 0615 www.asianatravelmate.com An active supporter of the Loreto Program, AsianaTravel Mate Co. Ltd. is a tourist information company that offers a wide range of customised itineraries, tour packages, and hotel & cruise reservations throughout Indochina, as well as daily departure tours in Saigon, Hue, Hanoi, known as Deluxe Group Tours. The company also operates three deluxe cruises in Ha Long Bay.

AZA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7 Tel: 5410 5523 www.azaadventuretours.com AZA Adventure Tours and Travel specialises in adventure and education tourism, providing consulting and custom travel arrangements and packages to the Philippines and other countries in Asia. AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level.

BUDGET RENT–A–CAR www.budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best–known car rental companies.

With a kiosk at the airport and drivers trained in a range of driving, cultural and language skills, mileage–free car hire starts at VND1.2 million.

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BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9170 travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips, customises leisure and corporate travel plans around the world and in Vietnam while offering a selected range of small group tours.

COME & GO VIETNAM 195/14, D1, Q Binh Thanh, Tel: 6258 3281 hello@comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, responsive British–run tour operator offering high–quality, innovative tailor made tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. Come & Go pride themselves on originality so if you’re tired of the usual Vietnam products, they’re definitely worth a try. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

DALAT EASY RIDER 70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat vndalateasyrider@yahoo.com www.dalat–easyrider.com.vn Bespoke motorbike tours from the original Easy Rider group based in Dalat. With over 70 guides, all speaking English, tourists can either ride on the back of a bike with their guide or can hire their own bikes. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands and you can even venture as far as Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Email for further information. Note: insurance is not included. Price is generally VND800,000 to VND1 million per day depending on how far you travel.

EXOTISSIMO

64 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 2911 dongdu@exotissimo.com SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2761 - Ext 113 pmh@exotissimo.com 41 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3 5194 111 - Ext 17 I anphu@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com Everything you could wish for under one roof from this professional agency. An upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, which aims to bring you up close to the cultures of the area through personalised tours across the region, which may include insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. Excellent service.

Travel desks at Sofitel Plaza Saigon and New World Hotel open from 7.30am to 9pm every day.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3824 7744 info@flightravelco.com www.flightravelco.com Flight travel is an associated partner of Hogg Robinson Group (HRG) in Vietnam providing a range of travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLUB PHU QUOC 60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Tel: 0939 402 872, www.flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff that speak English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish,

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around (although Wi-Fi is available).

Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up tasty, home-cooked Vietnamese food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow–style resort

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out & about Norwegian and Vietnamese. Established in 2009, Flipper Diving Club offers international scuba diving insurance for all customers and each instructor carries additional scuba diving insurance. Contact them now to learn more about diving in Phu Quoc.

FLY VIETNAM www.flyvietnam.com booking@flyvietnam.com An online air ticket reservation and travel agent in Vietnam providing information, pricing, availability, and booking facilities for domestic and international air travel, railway reservation, hotel bookings, holiday packages, buses, and car rentals.

Also organises travel insurance, coach tours and visas.

KIM TRAVEL 270 De Tham, Q1 One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering day tours, short breaks and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne Tel: 0908 400 108 www.mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes with national and international guidelines for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation. Group rates and corporate event packages are also available.

ONE WORLD 28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: 6675 2620 A local inbound tour operator specialising in boutique tours around Vietnam. We provide economy, luxury, packages and Taylor–made tours, including flexibility to allow our customers to explore at their pace and will.

TERRAVERDE 91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3984 4754 info@terraverdetravel.com If cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Halong Bay is your kind of thing, then this company’s range of customised cultural and soft adventure tours might suit. It caters to travellers interested in making a positive impact on the lives of the people whose regions they visit.

OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS

BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 096 CAFES 098 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 100 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 100 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 101 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 102 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 108 RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 108

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 2 LAM SON TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am.

Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

ALLEZ BOO

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 195 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 6291 5424 info@allezboo.com 24 hours Summery, Ibiza-style beats rock through this recently refurbished Backpackers’ Area icon, mixing in with the bamboostyle décor, deep red walls and ethnic minority upholstery and place settings.

Serving a mixture of Thai and western cuisine (from VND80,000 to VND140,000 a dish), the late-night party atmosphere is bolstered by the first-floor DJ pumping out tunes into the early hours.

AMERICA DISCOTHEQUE TECHNO / HIP HOP Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 9pm to late Once the largest nightclub in Vietnam, this 2000-capacity venue is located in the An Dong Plaza complex in District 5.

Pumping out 30,000 watts of sound, this

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 071 3752 436 www.tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Tu Trang Travel offers services such as trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh, and between Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc. Email: sales@tutrangtravel. com. www.vietnamvespaadventure.com From the people behind Zoom Café, Vietnam Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English speaking tour leaders lead the way, contact shawn@vietnamvespaadventure. com for more details.

RESTAURANTS SOUTHEAST ASIAN 110 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 111 COLUMNS FOODIE CORNER 104 CAFE CRITIQUE 110 FOOD PROMOS 112

BOUDOIR LOUNGE Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555, www.sofitel.com 7am to 1am Composed of The Conservatory, a daylight-drenched loft area, The Salon, a plush living room with baroque and exotic accents, The Cigar Room and The Library, with its sleek champagne tasting counter, the Boudoir Lounge is a haven for executives and lounge adepts alike.

Live International DJs perform Fridays and Saturdays. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and evening bouchées.

CLOUD 9

TU TRANG TRAVEL

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

out & about bare-brick bar area is the only place in the Backpackers’ District showing all the live sport. And here we certainly mean the word ALL. TV screens are everywhere. Also in the mix is the coldest aircon in town, reasonable (although slightly pricey) pub food and friendly female staff.

WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

club also possesses one of the loudest nightclub sound systems in the city. A popular nightspot for the local and Viet Kieu crowd, with resident and guest DJs playing thumping dance and techno tunes and a separate room for those who prefer hip hop and R&B. Expect to pay the usual nightclub prices for drinks, but look out for the regular specials on bottles of spirits.

APOCALYPSE NOW MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music. Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

BLUE GECKO

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AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 3483 www.bluegeckosaigon.com 4.30pm to midnight Although run by a Vietnamese couple, this boozy, outback-themed sports pub just off the main drag is quintessentially Australian. The down-to-earth atmosphere is added to by a great pool table, darts and all the live sports, with a particular focus (not surprisingly) on Aussie Rules and Rugby. Also shows the Premier League. One of the longest running watering holes in town.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com 9.30am to 1am Swathed in greys, cream and dull brown, this bar and café has the feel of an underground-style watering hole, the type you may find in London or New York.

Run by a well-known, locally based DJ, the decks and mixing board take centre stage here, with a range of turntablists taking to the stand at night. Also a good place to hang out during the day — the Mediterranean-influenced food menu includes crostini, salads, pastas and a good selection of breakfast fare. Does takeaway Lavazza coffee.

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LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0907 502951 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet. It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

CRAZY BUFFALO

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 212 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 3836 9946 www.crazybuffalosaigon.com 24 hours This hard-to-miss Backpackers’ Area restobar, terrace and nightclub declares itself loud and bold with its massive, snorting buffalo signage, a symbol that has undoubtedly appeared in thousands of photos of Saigon. A daytime happy hour, pizza, pasta, Asian cuisine and international mains make up the mix, with the beats pumping on the first floor until late.

FUSE TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com 7pm to late One of the smaller nightclubs to grace Saigon, the neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese set. Blaring techno and dance music envelopes the dance floor as large fruit platters and bottles of whiskey and cognac are consumed. A lack of space means this place gets packed easily, especially on the weekends, so look to arrive relatively early to grab a table. Even better, book in advance.

GO2 INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 3836 9575 24 hours A corner location, retro, slightly grungy décor, banging indie and popular rock tunes downstairs, never ending drunkenness and late-night partying make Go2 one of the watering hole destinations in the Backpackers’ Area. Popular with tourists and expats searching for latenight drinking and dancing options, the food menu includes Thai, Vietnamese and western cuisine with mains costing between VND75,000 and VND110,000. DJs bang out the beats upstairs until late.

BOSTON SPORTS BAR

GOSSIP

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 28/4 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 6656 6338 bostonpizzavn@gmail.com 24 hours This inviting, all-hours-god-sends multistorey restobar with its rectangular,

HARD TECHNO 79 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3824 2525 8.30pm to 2.30am This Singaporean-run super club, located in the Dai Nam hotel, is just as popular with the locals as it is with the foreigners.

A friendly, communal atmosphere and attentive service helps Gossip to stand out from its contemporaries. As expected, tinnitus-inducing levels of techno and house music blare throughout the twotiered club with a large, raised dancefloor that fills out instantly. ‘Dress to impress’ is the nature of the clientele here so don’t turn up in shorts and flip-flops. The entrance fee is VND120,000.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS 28Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn 8am to midnight Set in the same building as the Czech Consulate and decorated in wood panelling and brass finishing, this enormous Czech-styled bierkeller popular with stout burghers from both the local and expatriate communities was the first microbrewery in town (1995) and remains one of the best. The excellent home–brewed Hoavener beer, which comes in dark, red or blonde, is served out of huge steins and is complemented by a food menu that mixes Vietnamese fare with Central European staples such as schnitzels, wurst and much more.

ICE BLUE

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EXPAT BAR / DART 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 2664 3pm to 1am Despite its slightly run down veneer and smoky but lively atmosphere, Ice Blue remains a popular haunt for many of the city’s older expats as well as a not–so– regular crowd of tourists. Known for its amicable service and lively, beer-drinking ambience, this long-running waterhole is also famed for its darting prowess, with two well set-up dart boards claiming pride of place.

LA HABANA

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CUBAN/SPANISH 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am If it's mojitos and well-mixed cocktails you want, spiced up with nightly live music and a Latin atmosphere, La Habana is the place. Run by a Chinese-German couple, this attractive, long-running Cuban bar and restaurant is one of the few watering holes in the Thai Van Lung / Le Thanh Ton area to serve up a regular dose of all things live. Also has HB beer on tap, an excellent food menu and weekly salsa classes.

LAVISH

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices.

However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

LE PUB

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the French-

run Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

LUSH

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PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

O BRIEN’S

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IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot.

Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-diefor zesty beef roll-ups. Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

PHATTY’S

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46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere.

Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

PURPLE JADE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Purple Jade is a great place to catch up with friends or business partners or simply just to relax and enjoy great drinks. If you find yourself being overly particular about your choice of tipple, pull yourself together and ask the bartender for a cold beer with a shot of good liquor on the side.

QING

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WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION CUISINE 110 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar, this slither of a place mixes dark brown and maroon décor with bar-style seating and comfortable dining areas out front and at the back. An extensive new and old world wine list is, of course, part of the offering, as is an awesome pan-Asian fusion menu boasting Asian tapas (from VND85,000), international fusion mains (from VND185,000) and gourmet, creatively topped pizzas. Has a highly rated massage parlour upstairs.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

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17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to

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out & about

out & about

match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home– style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare.

Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme.

Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

SLATE 3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com 5pm to 1am Located opposite Centrepoint, Slate takes its name from the dark grey tiling covering the floor. Merging black and silver with turquoise, and with touches like semi-private sofa beds, the offerings here include over 30 martini cocktails, a barbecue menu and perhaps one of the most contemporary yet tasteful watering holes in town

SPOTTED COW

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 111 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7670 spottedcow@alfrescosgroup.com 11am to 12pm daily Part of the Al Fresco’s Group, the original Spotted Cow bar was on Hai Ba Trung in Hanoi, a few doors down from the country’s first Al Fresco’s. Now revived and transformed into a full-on sports bar with Friesian black and white spots to match, this friendly watering hole has a good food menu to match – think pasta, pizza, burgers, baguettes and international comfort food mains. A range of happy hours and darts make up the mix.

THE DRUNKEN DUCK

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SPORT / SHOOTER BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3915 2853 4pm to late A shooter bar, with over 15 down–in– one cocktails on the menu boasting names like Aquackalypse Now and The Duckinator, this striking, subtly lit space has a downstairs pool table, a long wooden bar and an upstairs lounge with a large, pull-down projector screen. The watering hole also shows live sport on the weekends courtesy of three flatscreen TVs. Try the shooter challenge and get a t-shirt and your name and time engraved on the wall. Also has a reasonable bar menu.

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THE LIBRARY Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The Library recaptures the romance of a bygone era, offering a sophisticated all-day snack menu of exquisite delicacies devised by Executive Chef Rolando Manesco. From 2.30pm to 5pm, the Library’s nostalgic afternoon tea is served, comprising of an array of fresh-cut sandwiches, light bites and platters.

VASCO’S

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EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas.

Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

VELVET

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 Tel: 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com 8.30pm to midnight You will be hard pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and uber trendy as Velvet. It’s of no wonder then that most of its clientele are exceptionally well-dressed socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. As a result this venue has carved itself a reputation as being the place to be and to be seen. Has a ladies night every Wednesday.

VIBE BILLARDS AND LOUNGE

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102 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 2599 10am to 1am A departure from the Saigon norm, this comfortably decorated, two-floor pool and snooker lounge mixes the attractions of a lustrous contemporary lounge bar with all the mod cons together with some of the best, imported pool tables available in town. Rental is by the hour, the seven pool tables costing around VND100,000 while the upstairs, full-size snooker table costs a touch more. A great place to go simply for a drink or to shoot pool with friends.

CAFES AIRPLANE CAFE (CAFE MAY BAY) OUTDOOR VIETNAMESE 117 Hong Ha, Tan Binh 7am to 10pm Located on the L-shaped road behind the Parkson Centre opposite the airport, a disused war-era passenger plane sets the scene for one the city’s most unique outdoor, plastic deck chair seating cafes.

So unique, in fact, that the wings act as shade from the sun, the wheels play home to a set of speakers, pot plants and fans hang from the metal casing of the aircraft while the tail has had a mini house built around it. Not surprisingly this museum of a place can get pretty crowded with families and kids awestruck by the novelty. It’s a decent cafe, too.

AN’S INTERIOR CAFE VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: 3823 3398 www.anscafe.com 7am to 11pm Located down alleyway 38, this sumptuous cafe just off Turtle Lake Circle is chintz, kitsch, bling and contemporary baroque decor all combined into an eye-catching one. That this place is so pleasing on the eye is added to by the silvery finished sofa seating and the iPad menus. Simply swipe the menu, zoom in or zoom out to choose from a contemporary range of coffees, teas, drinks and cocktails as well as Vietnamese and pan-western cuisine.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm Classic but eye-catching cream and greentiled decor runs through this cafe and deli-style restaurant housed in a colonial building opposite Le Duan park. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix together with a Mediterranean and European cafe fare food menu that includes creative sandwiches and salads as well as kebabs, bagels, mains and mezzos, all at prices that go easy on the wallet. Good wine list and an excellent delivery service.

BOBBY BREWER’S INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 4090 www.bobbybrewers.com 6.30am to 11pm Now with eight locations in town, this slightly synthetic, Starbucks-style airport

lounge of a place continues to knock out large and tasty espresso-based coffees together with a full range of smoothies, frappuccinos, juices and much more. Also has a fast-food style western food menu and an upstairs movie lounge showing the latest Hollywood hits with Vietnamese subtitles. Check their website for the movie schedule. Movie lounges are at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 and 400B Le Van Sy, Q3.

CACOPHONY LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: 3932 2797 www.cacophonycafe.com 7.30am to 11pm Set in a villa in a colonial era courtyard alongside two other cafes dedicated to live music, the four floors of Cacophony are all devoted to the beauty of sound, but in a different way. Take level 3, for example. An acoustic guitar and sound system sits in one corner while the room is decorated like a Hanoi urban street corner, sign, lamppost, tree, doorways and all, with the seating on cushions on the floor. Has live music in the basement space five nights a week (not Monday and Tuesday). Also has a small food menu.

CENTRO ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm The home of Caffe Vergnano, a recent makeover has added a bar area to this popular downtown cafe that serves up all things coffee - anything from ristrettos, macchiattos and lattes through to frappuccinis, mochas and spirit-infused coffees. Has a decent, mid-range Italian food menu to match that includes a large selection of panini, crostini, Italian rice dishes, salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat-based mains.

Has a second cafe at 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1.

CITY GARDEN

Irish nut crème and more.

CAFE / CASUAL DINING 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 4860 citygarden.sg@gmail.com 7am to 10pm daily City Garden is somewhat of a rarity in this city. Built in a sea of bamboo, this cozy open-air, non air-con cafe offers a casual and Mediterranean-influenced menu with a creative range of reasonably priced Panini starting from VND50,000, Italian latte from VND40,000 and cocktails from VND55,000. Good music and comfortable seating round up the mix.

I’M YOURS

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3508 7825, www.coffeebean.com.vn 7am to 11pm weekdays. 7.30am to 11.30pm weekends.

Great, large servings of coffee have to be the biggest pull of Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, an international chain of pleasant Starbucks-like work, meet and play cafes that is gradually spreading around the city. Now with five stores around town including 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 and further afield, comfortable seating and a contemporary but generic atmosphere are bolstered by a menu of cakes, cookies, sandwiches, pastries and more.

GLORIA JEAN’S INTERNATIONAL 2BIS Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 www.gloriajeanscoffee.com/vn Wooden table seating mixed with more comfortable armchairs, subtle lighting and a serve-yourself buffet-style ordering counter are some of the key components of this coffee chain that succeeded in Australia where Starbucks failed. It’s not surprising really. The coffee is good as are its various renditions — cinamocha, chai tea chiller, Turkish Delight, mango chiller,

MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0909 682927 9am to 10.30pm Tucked away just behind Nga Tu Phu Nhuan (The Phu Nhuan Intersection), this tiny gem of a rustic cafe combines nightly live music from 8.30pm with brown velvet upholstered sofa seating, treated dark wooden bench tables, cushions and striking wall decor. So small is this venue that there is an upstairs mezzanine level reached by old Mekong Delta-style ladder stairs and when the music starts, the place not only fills to the open rafters but gets local bus-style cramped, too. A great find.

KITA COFFEE INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts.

Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL 2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own.

Serving up a range of cocktails, imported

beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond marks the entrance to this quaint, open-air tearoom. Serving a line of high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and Vietnam, drinks start at VND35,000. Tea and teaware is also available for home use and as gifts.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

PETITE NOTE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3821 2718 7am to 10pm An outdoor, well-aired terrace on a corner location is the centerpiece of this fairly new but ever-popular contemporary coffee shop just behind New World Hotel. Wickerchair seating, lightbox lighting, browns, blacks and creams make up the effect, with a menu selling both Vietnamese and espresso-based coffees, smoothies, cocktails, beers and a mix of well-priced pan-international and Vietnamese fare.

Live music on the weekends.

MUSIC CAFE 351/4A le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 3931 6312 8am to 11pm A jungle of a place with vines wrapping round stairwells, water features, pot plants and fairy lights at night, the aircon indoors transforms into a living room-style cafe obsessed by music — images of famous musicians and bands adorn the walls while the playlist is all American.

Live piano enters the fray on Saturday and Sunday nights while the menu is typical Vietnamese cafe style together with fast food and a good selection of ice cream.

L’USINE

SOHO COFFEE LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com Plaudits galore as well as overseas TV coverage seem to have followed this spacious, first floor bistro-style cafe above the Art Arcade. Pitting 1930s Frenchstyle wooden decor against a spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior, a simple but creative cafe menu including sandwiches, salads, mains and cakes combines with reasonably priced coffee and good WiFi. Out back is a fashion store stocking modern, street-style brands, and an art gallery.

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 92 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3915 3606 www.soho.vn What started out as a sleek but comfortable, black and white futuristic affair on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai has now spread to five cafes around town and a restaurant at 327 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. It’s a nice formula. Comfortable but not flamboyant sofa-style seating, suave lines, curves and surfaces, a non-smoking section, good WiFi and surprisingly cheap coffee, all making a place to work, eat, rest and play. Check out their website for a list of locations.

OPERATION: TEAROOM

STELLA CAFFE

335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 www.operationteavietnam.com 8am-8pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-5pm (Sat-Sun) A quiet and hidden little tearoom located on the ground floor of a yoga studio and not far from the city centre. A wooden

ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm Despite its Italian restaurant veneer in a Backpacker area location, this pleasant,

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ BAR 213 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 0902 514757 Up and coming hole-in-the-wall coffee spot tucked away at the end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an extensive menu of Italian and Vietnamese coffee, as well as a variety of ice blended drinks, iced dolce green mint latte and Italian sodas.

Flavours range from violet and lavender to frozen cookie freeze, all at very affordable prices.

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out & about mid-range venue is best known for its coffee — its lattes and cappuccinos are among the best available in town. Has both indoor and outdoor spaces as well as an additional dining area upstairs.

Although, the service is questionable.

THI CAFÉ

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RETRO / VIETNAMESE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 2210 2929 www.thicafe.com 8am to late A gem in an area of rough diamonds, this slightly retro, bookish but lounge-style Vietnamese café and bar brings the best of local coffee shop creativity to Backpackerville, a collection of streets more associated with the brash and the not very beautiful. Decent iced coffee and juices mix with cocktails, beer and a panAsian food menu that also has a selection of Mexican fare. Has live acoustic music five nights a week and a downstairs bar area.

TRUNG NGUYEN 50 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 3914 6911 www.trungnguyen.com.vn 6.30am to 10.30pm A downtown location of the everexpanding Trung Nguyen chain, this pleasant two-storey cafe opposite the Bitexco Tower mixes the creams, browns and comfort seating of this international homegrown brand with the Trung Nguyen menu — six types of mixed robusta and arabica Vietnamese-style coffees together with smoothies, juices and a small range of easy food options. The best place in town to taste locally produced coffee in all its tempting guises. Also has a store at 349 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 and numerous locations around town selling their coffee.

UP CAFE CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3845 2155 7am to 11pm Even the logo is shaped like an upside down house at this funky, spacious cafe close to the Moevenpick and the airport. With whole sets of upside down tables and chairs, shelves, light fittings, mantlepieces and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up is one of the new brand of cafes spreading its wings across the city. Sells the typical range of cafe drinks and simple Vietnamese cuisine as well as cocktails, beer and more. A great place to chill.

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET HU TIEU MI ANH KY MI NOODLE SOUP / WANTON 80 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3821 5518 6.30am to 12pm daily Take freshly made mi noodles, put

them in a pork broth, add equally fresh wantons (hoanh thanh), maybe add in some dried hu tieu noodles and put banh quay (bread sticks) and a range of sauces on the side. Et voila, you have one of the best Chinese-style Vietnamese noodle soups in Saigon. The service may be a touch slow and you’ll have to get used to an on-the-street, back to basics atmosphere, but worth every penny (and bite).

cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) www.shangpalace.com.vn Located just off the Central Business District, the dark intricate wooden tables and chairs of this well-respected Chinese restaurant contrast well with the white linen and deep red carpeting.

Featuring over 200 dishes including over 50 kinds of dim sum for lunch, the cuisine here is prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300 and is a good venue for events, business functions and family get-togethers.

MID-RANGE

YU CHU

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

TAN HAI VAN PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best–known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

MID TO TOP DYNASTY CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, round-table dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town. The classic dim sum menu is reliably appetizing – check out their Sunday morning dim sum brunch. Also has a selection of set menus, both private and semi-private dining rooms and a highly rated chef hailing from Hong Kong.

KABIN CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese

1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The restaurant marries contemporary style, stylish surroundings and culinary spectacle with authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. As diners look on, the skillful chefs prepare hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within the open, impeccably designed show kitchen.

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID-RANGE LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3829 9263 11am to 10pm Mon-Thu. 11am to 11pm Fri-Sat. Closed from 2.30pm to 5.30pm daily and Sundays A quirky and sociable family-run, family-friendly French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, home cooked-style French cuisine for lunch and dinner. Le Bouchon de Saigon offers traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, croque madame and moules marinieres, as well as an array of European fusion dishes, and competivitely priced world wines.

LE JARDIN 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3825 8465 11am to 1.30pm, 6pm to 8.20pm. Closed Sundays Unpretentious, tasty but simple French fare in a relaxed garden setting around the back of the French Cultural Centre, Idecaf. Although don’t expect much intimacy here – Le Jardin gets so crowded

and the tables are so close together that private conversations are best had elsewhere. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is classically Gallic and it’s well-priced, too. Excellent, cheap house wine served by the carafe. Booking advised.

MINH KHA CAFÉ (K CAFÉ) FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: 0903 852956 (Paulo) kcafesaigon@yahoo.com A French-style bistro and restaurant all in one, this Backpacker Area mainstay attracts a regular clientele made up of Gallic expats, tourists and more. An excellent food menu – think all things French – backs up the long bar area perfect for sipping on a Ricard or a beer or two. Daily specials board and French sports live on TV.

MID TO TOP LA FOURCHETTE PAN-FRENCH 9 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3829 8143 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm A cramped but comfortable, twostorey eatery popular with the French community. Classic fare from goats cheese salad through to seared magret duck, escargot, charcuterie plates and much more. Has a reasonable but mainly French wine list and a cosy, amiable atmosphere aided by the almost constant presence of the owner. Booking recommended.

TY COZ CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa.

And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town. A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Recently relocated from its spot on Ngo Van Nam, this decidedly intimate, whitewashed, open-kitchened restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list — 75 at present count — and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its small size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555, www.sofitel.com 11.30am to 2pm, and 6pm to 10pm A traditional French restaurant offering Mediterranean cuisine that’s well known for its quarterly Michelin star promotions and award winning pastry team. Seating 80 people, the restaurant exudes a southern Gallic atmosphere with its warmtoned tiled veranda, pastel coloured walls and ficus trees.

TROIS GOURMANDS CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: 3744 4585 6.30pm to 10pm. Closed Monday Deliberately off the radar, Trois Gourmands is the successor of the once legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh. Despite its new District 2 location in a colonial-style bungalow, the enigmatic Gils remains at the helm of this self-styled table d'hôte, and as of old he continues to serve up some of the best, classic Gallic fare in town. As ever, the standard seven-course meal remains surprisingly cheap — presently at VND900,000 a head. The bread and even the cheese here are home made — quite a feat.

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the threestorey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams. Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

INDUS INDIAN INDIAN / MALAYSIAN 2G Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3521 0326 indusindiansaigon@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Just two doors away from nightspot icon Apocalypse Now, Indus Indian may not be the brightest in decor and ambience, but this is made up for by the tasty, hybrid Malay Indian fare. Run

by Chef Logu, the former cook to the Consulate General of India to Vietnam, expect a Halal menu including the likes of roti canai, murtabak and Malay-styled curries as well as more traditional Indian cuisine.

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

PEACHES

A Taste of Authenticity

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S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999 10am to 11pm A Saigon South favourite, Peaches is located in the square area between Sky Garden 2 and Sky Garden 3. A spacious, attractive restobar with comfortable, lounge-style seating and a bar area, this watering hole mixes three beers on tap and a large screen for the live sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Including anything from Sri Lankan chicken curry through to beef rending, fish head curry and mutton vindaloo, the majority of the dishes cost under VND100,000. A perfect accompaniment to the beer.

TANDOOR

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors,

BUDGET BOMBAY INDIAN

LA CAMARGUE

INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 0903 863114 11am to 10pm Daily Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine as well as roti paratha, muttapa (murtabak) and both vegetarian and meat-based mains. Like its menu, the fan-cooled dining area is simplicity personified and the prices here are cheap, too, with all the dishes costing well under VND100,000.

THE PUNJABI NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s self-made tandoor oven.

Excellent.

MID-RANGE BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3838 6661 www.babaskitchen.in 11am to 10.30pm Run by the enigmatic Robin of former

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GANESH

MUMTAZ

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN

TOP-END FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay.

Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

Mumtaz fame, this recently opened, pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent.

From dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and the fiery vindaloo, the cuisine and hospitable service at this friendly eatery are already drawing in the customers. Good delivery service.

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00 www.pendolasco.vn

out & about

DELIVERY BEN’S STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare BURGER OI Tel: 3826 5426 www.burgeroi.com Burgers, fries, onion rings and side orders CHEZ GUIDO Tel: 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches DA VINCI’S Tel: 3943 4982 www.davincisvietnam.com Pizzas, pastas, subs and salads DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants KFC Tel: 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides LOTTERIA Tel: 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers SCOOZI Tel: 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants ZIPANG Tel: 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm.com for menu

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with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bo b Dylan on the sound system.

Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

LAM’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 175 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 0308 The hole-in-the-wall frontage to this darling of the Backpacker’s Area dining scene is misleading. Lam’s serves up some genuinely tasty cuisine at rock bottom prices, especially when you hit the Vietnamese menu. The fare here is typical of local home cooking and the portions are big, too. Also does Tex-Mex, Thai, Singaporean and much more.

The bar Chao Saigon (222/2 Bui Vien) opposite is owned and run by the same family

MARKET 39 Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Market 39 specialises in a boutique selection of appetisers, locally sourced and imported seafood, succulent steaks sizzling from the grill and hand-crafted noodles. Breads and pastries are prepared all day to ensure that every dish arrives on the table, fresh and full of flavour. .MID-RANGE

AL FRESCO’S

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INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 8424 www.alfrescosgroup.com 8.30am to 11pm The downtown outlet of one of the country’s most successful restaurant chains, the multi-storey Al Fresco’s is international comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Famous for its jumbo ribs, also making the menu is Tex-Mex, burgers, pizzas, salads and an assortment of international mains. Does an excellent delivery service. For a full list of restaurants check the website.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor.

Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

BAHDJA 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 11pm (Mon-Fri), 6pm to 11pm (Sat) Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

BERNIE’S BAR & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3822 1720 7.30am to 11pm A restobar that caters for any crowd and occasion. A fine dining room is located upstairs while the more casual bar area downstairs regularly shows live sport and hosts live music. The menu offers up a bevy of tasty western comfort food, a selection of Vietnamese fare and some of the best burgers in town.

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 8452 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Closed Mondays.

A miniscule, two-floor restobar with a homely, slightly rustic feel that is the only place in town pushing the excellent, Hue-brewed Huda beer, always served cold. A free book exchange, an everyoneknows-your-name kind of atmosphere and mains from tuna steak and bangers and mash through to burgers, schnitzels, burritos and sarnies make up the formula here. Does a popular roast from 5.30pm every Sunday.

ELBOW ROOM

REFINERY

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

IMPERIAL

SCOTT AND BINH'S

RUSSIAN 6 Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3829 4644 11am to late A larger than life-size Russian doll stands outside the entrance of this three-storey beautiful mismatch-of-styles, Russianrun venue. Filled with Eastern European imagery, red theatre-style curtains and Soviet propaganda art, the weekly changing Russian menu includes the likes of borsh, Russian salad, dumplings and cutlets, and can be adapted to your needs for party bookings. Located close to Basilico.

KITA RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts.

Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

MOGAMBO

PAN-NORTH AFRICAN 58/9 Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: 3862 8859 6pm to midnight. Closed Monday The first Moroccan restaurant in Saigon’s history has an intimate, cozy setting. Couscous mains start at around VND100,000, while couscous with lamb, chicken and beef is just under VND200,000. Other Moroccan specialties such as slow–cooked lamb with almond and plums and roasted quail with sweet mrozia sauce are also on the menu. Chef Riahi’s home–made pastries such as baklava and “gazelle horns” filled with almond paste are a rarity in the city.

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn 9am to 11pm daily Known for their American-styled burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex, the two-storey Mogambo claims pride of place as one of the city’s longest running restobars.

A well-known expat meeting spot, Savannah-esque, bamboo décor and booth seating make up the mix together with a pleasant bar space. Dishes run from fajitas and burritos through to chicken cordon bleu, pies, the coronary bypass burger, salad, soup, gumbos and spare ribs.

DOMINO'S PIZZA

PIZZA 4P’S

CASABLANCA MOROCCAN CUISINE

AMERICAN PIZZA DELIVERY 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7; The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn 10am to 10pm Despite its delivery-only reputation, Domino's in Vietnam is also doing a roaring trade with eat in diners thanks to its upstairs restaurant space. It's all very casual, of course, with the pizzas served out of the box, but with a range of combos starting at VND70,000 for a small pizza and coke, and now with thin crust available, the Domino's taste and experience has successfully been imported to Vietnam. Check their website for full menu and specials.

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 9838 www.pizza4ps.com 11.30am to 11pm, Tue-Sun Italian tradition meets Japanese ingenuity at Pizza 4P’s. This quirky fusion pizza parlor serves whacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza, calamari seaweed pizza and teriyaki chicken pizza, as well as more traditional types such as quattro formaggi, marinara and the old faithful, margherita pizza.

Those with an adventurous streak can also order their pizza half and half.

Pan-European and Asian soups, salads and a la carte mains make up the rest of the menu.

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INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0948 901465 www.bizuhotel.com/main/pages/sb-food.php 4pm to 11pm. Closed Monday American chef/owner Scott Marquis offers a creative international menu that he likes to call “comfort food with a twist”.

Serving all homemade soups, salads, sharing plates, burgers, sandwiches, pastas, main courses and desserts, the restaurant also boasts a full bar, ice cold beer and an international wine list to complement your meal. Also has a daily happy hour from 4pm to 7pm on ‘buy one get one free’ bottled beers and local spirits mixed drinks to complement the usual selection.

SNAP CAFE INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 3519 4532 www.snap.com.vn 7.30am to 10.30pm (weekdays). 7.30am to 11.30pm (weekends) A huge banyan tree sits in the entrance of Snap Cafe, a rustic-themed airy cafe

and retail space with thatched roofing, jungle-like foliage and a kiddy’s play area. Breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, mains including Asian cuisine and weekly specials make up the cuisine mix, complemented by a range of benches and sofa seating that gives this venue a unique feel. Retail outlets include Oasis Deli, a furniture store and YB Designs jewellery.

STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 10am to late Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its mural of Copenhagen taking up the length of one wall attracts a mix of Scandinavian and international punters, all enjoying the offerings from the well-stocked bar and the reasonably priced Danish-influenced pub grub menu. Dishes include Danishstyle fried pork and meatballs, frankfurt sausages, a range of grilled fare, burgers and much more. Has three screens for the live sport and seating areas out back and upstairs.

SUBWAY 171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 4497 Ground Floor, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4849 121 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 3914 4118 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere.

Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo

out & about meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

TRADERS

foodie CORNER

WARDA

Soylicious

Fish-Shaped Waffle Don’t want to feel guilty about

104 | Word October 2012

satisfying those sweet cravings?

Soybean desserts are also possible. Served in a traditional handmade oak bin that adds to the delicious authenticity of their

desserts, the shop introduces a medley of sweets including red bean soup bean curd, coco

mango bean curd, chilled matcha bean curd or go plain with the chilled bean curd. If you want a refreshing fruity flavour, try the mixed fruits bean curd with coconut milk. The mango sago is delicious too.

Pair your soya drink or dessert with The Bean Store’s octopus or prawn takoyaki — their take on this Japanese snack. Another snack choice that is quite popular in this Japanese-Singaporean store is the taiyaki. This Japanese fish-shaped waffle is available in the original azuki paste, custard, kaya or cheese. But if you’re feeling adventurous, do try the durian variant.

If you want to sit down for a full meal, their kway teo, omurice, laksa or the spam musubi may just be what you need. The Bean Store’s enticing Muji vibe will make you want to slow down and just delight in their treats!

BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 6592, www.boomerang.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Take the Esplanades in Singapore, transport one of the Lion City’s seafrontstyle restaurants to Vietnam and you have Boomerang, a two-story, Australianthemed but Singapore-owned eatery and bar with great terraced seating specializing in international fare all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

The menu runs the gamut from pizzas (around VND220,000) through to grills, salads and burgers (around VND185,000).

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

BLU BAR & GRILL

ZOOM CAFÉ

BROTZEIT

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 3897 vscooterguy@yahoo.com 7am to 2am daily Known for its excellent scooter-themed burgers, this Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a Vietnamese-style sidewalk drinking haunt by night. A corner location, friendly staff and American deli-style fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Also serves Tex-Mex and Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a Vespa tour service from within the café.

PHOTOS BY ARMI DETICIO

WIDELY STUDIED, SOYA BENEFITS the bones, heart, helps prevent cancer and reduces body weight.

Good news for those who are on a diet. But enough of the lecture.

Where can you find a yummy soya-based treat that’s not all about milk? Let’s face it, when you say soya, the first thing that pops into your mind is soy milk.

The Bean Store (399 Vo Van Tan, Q1) is about to change that.

It specialises in concocting delicious drinks and desserts that are soybeans based. Yes, you can still order the boring soya milk but if you want a new twist to your healthy drink, check out their Icy Matcha Soy. The unique cool taste of this drink is a must try. If you’re not fond of Matcha, The Bean Store offers other varieties like mint, strawberry, grass jelly and Japanese azuki.

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NEW YORK/ INTERNATIONAL 76 Bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 3556 7am to midnight Located in the stock market area in between the canal and Ham Nghi, this funky, Wall Street-styled restobar takes the concept of its name and mixes it with an ever-changing set of deals on drinks and cuisine. With cash-obsessed, comic strip style American artwork lining the walls and a great, curved long bar, the French-influenced American food menu includes pizza, hotdogs, salads, tartines and bracket kebabs. Great concept and a good place for more than just a beer.

with three areas to choose from within an ideal private setting. Also provides occasional live music, mini festivals and various themed events.

MID TO TOP ALIBI

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 7am to 11pm An easy, breezy, light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river. Serves up international comfort food such as burgers and pizzas as well as tasty Asian standards. Also has a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. Part of the Riverside Apartments complex.

Check for daily boat schedule between the complex and downtown Saigon.

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4206, www.brotzeit.co/kumholink 11am to 12am daily The city’s first contemporary German bier bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers wellknown German black, blonde and gold beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine — think sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed, contemporary yet chic setting. Almost a Bavarian variation of the British gastropub chain All Bar One, the interior comprises wooden benches, wooden tables and a long wooden bar counter, as well as a semi open-air balcony overlooking Le Duan.

INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

CHARNER CAFÉ

BEIRUT LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2188 A Lebanese restaurant and shisha lounge located in the downtown area Ho Chi Minh City, it encompasses a multiplefloored restaurant and extensive garden area. As the name suggests the menu has a Lebanese/Arabic theme and shisha with a variety of flavours are available on request.

ITALIAN-STYLE TAPAS / RESTOBAR 17 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 9095 10am to 11pm Specialising in Italian-style tapas and fine dining in a casual setting, Figaro offers an assortment of aperrandivi dishes, weekly blackboard specials, gourmet pizzas, pastas and salads, and an extensive selection of wines by the bottle from Italy, France, Chile, Australia and New Zealand.

Premium beers, spirits and cocktails make up the rest.

BOAT HOUSE

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 7.30am to 11pm daily The river plays a big role in this spacious restrobar in An Phu on the banks of Saigon's river. The menu offers seasonal dishes that include share plates, mains, classics and desserts along with a hearty breakfast menu and kids menu. Boat House caters for small to large functions,

EUROPEAN/ASIAN 98 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 6065 7am to 11pm Situated above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, Charner Café offers pan-European and Asian cuisine despite its overtly mid-to-late 20th century Parisian-inspired interior. Excellent soups, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes are all available at reasonable prices ranging from VND120,000 to VND350,000, as are Chinese and Thai-style Asian courses. Also serves breakfast, brunch and good coffee.

FIGARO

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.vn 8am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the well known Australian chain mixes hearty pub grub such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere thanks to the big screen TVs regularly showing various

sporting events. Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long bar space and grassy/patio outdoor terrace, drinks include a mainly new world wine list and various local and imported beers and spirits. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

KUMHO LINK AT KUMHO ASIANA + PLAZA SAIGON 39 Le Duan, Q1 www.kumholink.com.vn/en As Saigon’s one and only dedicated “Drinking and Dining destination”, Kumho Link has made a name for itself by being able to suit everyone’s food and drink desires: with quality Western, Hong Kong Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Singaporean, Thai and Vietnamese fare, along with great cocktails, imported German Beer and live music.

LA HABANA

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CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am Cuban–themed bar and restaurant selling a tasty range of Cuban and Spanish cuisine. The signature seafood–based paella goes for VND330,000 for two people and a big selection of tapas starts at VND40,000 each. Also has a small German menu featuring favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Does excellent cocktails, and,three–course lunches, including a drink, for under VND200,000.

MEKONG MERCHANT

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195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3829 8301 www.myplace.com.vn 11am to late, Tue-Sun Renovated from an old French colonialera villa, My Place is a sleek, high-end gastro-pub with private salons, an idyllic garden space and several bar areas.

Serves both local and international fare including stews, clams, pasta dishes and finger food. Also does a BBQ every Saturday night, brunches on Sundays and offers various daily food and drinks promotions.

PASHA

PACHARAN

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SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas.

Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene.

The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

SKEWERS

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

Cafe fare made with American flair

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com 8am to 10pm daily. MM Bistro 6.30am to 9pm daily.

The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place to go in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard with a kids’ play area, a bar space, wicker-style seating and notice boards galore, the cuisine is a mixture of gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, salads, pasta and pizza interlaced with Gulf of Thailand seafood imported directly from Phu Quoc.

Also does a great breakfast. A recent addition is the aircon, bakery-style MM Bistro out front.

MY PLACE

restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

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TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed

Burgers Panini Baguettes American Breakfasts Tex-Mex Asian Specialties

169a De Tham

@ Tran Hung Dao Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 7am-2am daily

out & about

YEEBO Broadway Building, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Flashy hotpot joint great for large parties.

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WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315, www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE

NG BA NG O LU

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

Saigon South Internationl School

BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3820 7157 www.aulacdobrazil.com 5pm to 10.30pm Au Lac Do mixes a Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. Heading up the menu is the churrasco, the Brazilian barbecue, with 12 cuts of smoked, barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, all hand carved quite theatrically at your table. Not surprisingly the place can get a little busy, so best to book. Has a second restaurant at 36/19–21 Ground floor, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7.

BLANCHY’S TASH Nguyen Phan chanh

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CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 11am to midnight The downstairs café-cum-lounge bar of this iconic downtown modern Vietnamese restaurant mixes subtle lighting with contemporary artwork ands design touches, a swathe of browns, cream, maroon, sofa-style seating and deep red upholstery. Serving a range of international fare together with Vietnamese dishes throughout the day, nighttime turns this venue into an upmarket, downtown bar. Known for its cocktails and extensive wine list.

TOP-END

Nguyen Binh

10 Tay

Dang Duc Thuat

Ha Huy Tap 03

10

Pham Thai Buong

10

09 t ee Str 19 t ee Str 18

t ee Str 18

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t ee Str 16

15

2 ieu y T ge Tha Brid

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Anh Sao Bridge

P Street

Pham Van Nghi - Nam

t ee Str 19

Au Lac Do Brazil 08

t ee Str 16

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MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Q7 Tel: 5414 1717 11am to 11pm. Closed Mondays A restaurant rather than a bar and events space, the District 7 incarnation of the iconic downtown bar Vasco’s offers up outdoor, terrace-style seating together with an attractive upstairs bar and lounge area. Also has a great selection of wines courtesy of Bacchus Corner, who have a mini store on the premises. The cuisine runs the gamut from the likes of beef carpaccio and goat’s cheese salad all the way through to the beef tenderloin, seabass in Serrano ham and excellent pizzas.

ZANZBAR

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THE CRESCENT (HO BAN NGUYET)

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SURASANG 1417 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Korean deli displaying bowl after bowl of various types of kim chi and other traditional fare.

THE TAVERN R2–24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 3900 Cold beer, friendly service, a convivial atmosphere and a pavement terrace make this a perfect place for a pit stop any time of the day.

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ONE MORE SA9–1 My Khanh III, Ha Huy Tap, Q7 An everybody–knows–your–name type atmosphere at this local bar.

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NATHALIE’S THAI RESTAURANT S9–HV3 Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 A strong neighbourhood vibe at this pleasantly decorated Thai eatery–cum–café.

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LOVE NOODLE HOUSE D002 Nguyen Binh, Q7 Singaporean noodle house.

PIZZA INN 4 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 1196

Mini Golf Course and Swimming Pool

Saigon Exhibition Centre

Lawrence S.ting Building 05

Crescent Mall 04

Carl's Junior 03

Peaches 02

The Tavern 01

LA PIZZA ITALIANA SF 19-1 Canh Vien 1 Duong Pho Tieu Nam, Q7 Tel: 08 5417 0511/2 - for deliveries Selling authentic Italian thin-crust pizzas & a selection of pasta dishes.

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JUJAEGEUM Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Enormous bakery, patisserie and chocolatier.

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GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2289 International–style coffee house with the usual range of cappucinos, frappucinos and mochaccions to drink or take away.

DISTRICT 7

CREMONA 55 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Italian–style cake shop and café that serves excellent coffees and tasty sweets.

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Parkson Paragon Shopping Mall and Cinema

VASCO’S AT THE CRESCENT

JAPANESE / PERUVIAN FUSION 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 11am to 3am Located in a three-storey building in

the centre of downtown Saigon – and named after French colonial-era mayor Rue Paul Blanchy — this popular high-end restobar pulls in both diners and latenight revellers thanks to its inventive Japanese-Peruvian fusion menu (designed by former Nobu chef Martin Brito), late opening hours and regular DJ sets.

Check out their sashimi and tartares.

Mouthwateringly good.

CHILL SKYBAR 26th & 27th Floor Rooftop, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 2372, www.chillsaigon.com 5pm to 10pm (restaurant). 5pm to 2am (bar & lounge) Offering breath-taking views of the city, Chill consists of an upscale restaurant, posh sky bar and a sophisticated lounge.

The music schedule offers everything from chill-out, R&B and sexy house to hip-hop.

A “Sunset Happy Hour Special” runs Mondays through Thursdays from 5.30pm to 8:30pm. Make sure to dress well as Chill operates a no-shorts/no-sandals dress code policy.

CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 6am to 11pm The sleek, contemporary brown and cream decor at this street level steakhouse in the Norfolk Hotel plays host to a gem of a place close to Ben Thanh Market. Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range US or Australian steaks as well as the great grill and comfort food menu makes this a good option for a quality bite. Steaks start at VND390,000 for a decent sized cut. Does a nightly, competitively priced wine buffet.

EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3825 1879 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late A pleasant downtown eatery mixing the Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. The smaller downstairs and kitchen area is complemented by a no-smoking dining space upstairs replete with a bar and an outdoor terrace. Add to this bar-brick wall decor, light-wood tables and Argentinian themed photography on the walls and you have a well-rounded, popular restaurant only a stone’s throw from the Opera House.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE & WINERY AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 7373 www.steakhouse.com.vn 11am to midnight Evoking a retro, black and white Hollywood movie star environment, NYSW is known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, table-carved double strip loins and chateaubriands. Side dishes include black truffle cream spinach, potato dauphinois and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive wine list adds to the overall dining experience, which is enhanced by the all red and grey diner-style décor. Has an upstairs cigar room.

NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine. Often puts on specials and brings in overseas chefs. Presently regarded as

one of the best buffet restaurants in town.

PARKVIEW INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 6am to 10pm The ground floor, flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, the minimalist yet slightly kitsch décor here is designed to bring out the colours and ambiance of the restaurant’s lavish buffets. Served three times a day, with a number of alternative cooking stations, the cuisine runs the gamut from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood to creative salads, cold cuts and cheese plates to a range of desserts. Also does an excellent range of promotions.

Check their website for details.

QUO VADIS INTERNATIONAL FUSION 5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 8am to 11pm This lounge-restaurant (below Lavish) is centrally located and has elegant, peaceful and cozy surroundings. The décor includes reproduction furniture, sculptures, flowers and oil paintings, and the menu has a great range of well-presented Asian and European dishes. The service is friendly, relaxed and attentive. A great place to meet friends to relax, eat and drink.

REFLECTIONS INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 6pm to 11pm Pan-Mediterranean and European dishes make up the bulk of the offerings at the refined but surprisingly fresh Reflections.

The Caravelle Hotel’s signature restaurant, old images of the city grace the walls while a pianist plays nightly in the separate bar area. And yet the fare is surprisingly contemporary. Cosy yet elegant, a well–sourced wine list and a pre-bookable private dining room make this a good choice for that special meal or to entertain people who need to be entertained.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 6am to 11pm Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus an ongoing roster of themed lunches in a fresh, elegant setting.

SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270–degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfortspared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

STRATA INTERNATIONAL/ASIAN Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 6291 8750, www.cirrussaigon.com 10am to 10pm Strata is an all-day restaurant and events venue offering a panoramic view of Saigon. Food offered includes an express business lunch from 11:30am to 2pm, high tea from 2:30pm to 5pm and a buffet dinner 6:30pm to 10pm, as well as an all-day a la carte menu. A separate private function space provides a suitable venue

out & about

AN PHU BLU BAR & GRILL 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 An easy, breezy light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river serves up comfort food and Asian standards. Also with a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials.

BOATHOUSE APSC Compound, 40 Lily Road, Q2 info@boathouse.com.vn The menu is built around surf and turf.

Lunch comprises of a healthy selection of soups, salads and sandwiches while dinner concentrates on top–end beef, seafood and pastas.

CAFÉ EVITA 230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Pizzas, salads, burgers, pastas, ice cream and a whole lot more besides is on hand to keep the entire family full and happy at this bright, airy and well kitted–out eatery.

GAUDI 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4722 A Spanish tapas restaurant decorated in the style of Spanish architect Gaudi.

Italian dishes such as pizza, risotto and pasta are also on offer.

GOOD EATS NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Connected to NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, the menu is based on the theme of maintaining a long and healthy life.

MEKONG MERCHANT 23 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 Superb dining space in leafy, shaded courtyard. Fresh Phu Quoc seafood is the speciality. Other staples are homemade pizzas, salads and daily specials.

SNAP CAFE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Chilled, rustic, open–air style cafe set in a large courtyard with comfortable wooden seating, banana–leaf roofing and an outdoor playground area for kids.

TAMAGO 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4634 Serving a range of authentic Japanese dishes and sushi, Tamago offers a weekly Sunday buffet lunch and BBQ/ yakiniku on Thursday evenings. Indoor and outdoor seating, with a great terrace. Private rooms also available.

Call for home delivery.

108 | Word October 2012

for business meetings, corporate events, seminars/conferences, and private dining.

THE DECK

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MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm.

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant.

Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN BUDGET MARGHERITA ITALIAN, TEX-MEX, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3837 0760 8am to 11pm daily This family-run restaurant has been on of the Backpackers’ Area mainstays for well over a decade, selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas all mixed in with pan-western cuisine, tasty Vietnamese fare and a few Tex-Mex dishes. Amiable owners, a pleasant atmosphere, reasonable pricing and an efficient delivery service make up the mix.

SALT AND PEPPER TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7. Tel: 5412 4848 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm Located in the modern confines of The Crescent, this contemporary-styled Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an open kitchen and a relaxing outdoor terrace area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian cuisine, the menu includes a nice selection of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas and desserts, all at affordable prices. At night the cozy atmosphere creates the ideal ambience for a dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine.

MID-RANGE CENTRO CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1, Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm A contemporary Italian-themed cafe and restaurant mixing the best of the peninsular’s coffee — anything from ristrettos and macchiattos to frappuccinis — with a decent cafe-based food menu that also includes a more extensive selection of mains. As well as a substantial range of meat and vegetarian panini and crostini, there are also Italian rice dishes, creative salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat or seafood-based mains.

CIAO BELLA

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NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3822 3329 www.saigonrestaurantgroup.com 9am to 11pm A fun and affordable New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of interesting and tasty antipasti, pastas, pizzas and more. Friendly and attentive staff, rustic bare brick walls and warm Tuscan yellow colouring make for a relaxed and attractive setting to dine while Sinatra, Deano and Sammy croon in the background.

LUCCA TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1 Tel: 3915 3692 A contemporary yet traditionally themed Trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving a wide range of home cooked Italian cuisine

in the confines of a well designed and thought out space with high ceilings. A varied menu is available to suit different tastes from traditional antipasti to substantial main courses.

PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: 6253 2828 www.pendolasco.vn 11am to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

STELLA CAFFE

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ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm daily Besides serving up one of the best lattes in town, the tasteful, two-storey Caffe Stella has become one of the main expat haunts in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly staff, decent WiFi, reasonable Italian cuisine and indoor aircon space. Although there are a number of Vietnamese dishes on offer, the cuisine here is all Italian – think antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata and Italian-style mains – all sold at decent prices.

MID TO TOP BASILICO CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Cnr. Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099, www.icasianasaigon.com 6.30am to 10.30pm A sleek, modern-styled trattoria attached to the back of the Intercontinental, the professionally designed, international Italian fare encompasses anything from carne and pesce dishes through to pizza, pasta, baguettes, focaccia and panini.

Has a breezy, tree-shaded outdoor street terrace area and is often packed at mealtimes. For being part of a five-star, prices here are very reasonable.

CASA ITALIA CLASSIC ITALIAN 86 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn 10am to midnight Pompeii ceiling tiling, Roman arches and a classic Italian feel pervade this restaurant close to Ben Thanh Market.

The fare mixes international Italian cuisine such carbonara, Bolognese and Arrabiata dishes with regional specialities such as the linguine sfiziose and excellent wood-fire oven pizzas. Has a good selection of mains as well as an intimate wine cellar-style dining space upstairs.

LA HOSTARIA TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful, rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious,

brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House.

The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni.

This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

TOP-END LA BRACERIA PIZZA & GRILL 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn The pastel-coloured, Roman arch brickwork of this airy, three-storey restaurant provides the setting for a more unusual variation on the Italian theme — the grill. Cooked over lava stones (think Mount Etna) or in the wood-fired pizza oven, dishes include steaks, lamb chops, Andouillette sausage, skewers and a range of seafood, all marinated with a selection of Mediterranean spices. Also does a range of pasta, pizza and traditional starters.

OPERA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 6am to 11pm Unpretentious, casual but elegant bistro– style restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu which starts with pasta and wood–fired pizza, and then moves on to an expertly crafted selection of gourmet fare. A terrace offers the chance to observe the city goings–on. The wine list is a compact selection from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and great open kitchens. Has a laid-back separate bar area, too.

RESTAURANTS – JAPANESE & KOREAN

BUDGET ASIAN KITCHEN PAN-ASIAN / JAPANESE 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 7397 7am to midnight daily While standard Japanese day-to-day fare is the focus of this long-running, bamboo-clad eatery close to Chi’s Café, the menu here also includes Vietnamese, Indian, western and vegetarian options.

With prices remaining at rock bottom – VND45,000 to VND65,000 for a mains — Asian Kitchen is a favourite with budget tourists and is highly rated on Trip Advisor.

TOKYO BBQ JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 2527 9.30am to 2pm, 4.30pm to midnight The wooden and charcoal panelling together with the open downstairs kitchen and upstairs swathed-in-red dining area give this contemporary Japanese eatery a casual but comfortable ambience.

Specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoal-grilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, while the various other meat and vegetable options are also an excellent choice. Does a great lunch set starting at under VND100,000, rising to just under VND300,000 for the barbecue set.

MID-RANGE DRAGON NOODLE JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3521 0008 www.ramen.vn 11am to 1am Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the defining feature of this decidedly Japanese eatery is the black and white sketch of old Saigon

stretching the whole length of the righthand wall. Bar-table as well as standard seating adds to the atmosphere while the menu focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also has a number of stir-fried options and a rice dish-based lunch menu.

MUS MUS JAPANESE HOTPOT 117 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3930 9185 www.musmus.net 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm An excellent slither of a place specialising in Japanese-style hotpots, shabu-shabu and, in particular, the awesome steamed hotpot. Choose 12 ingredients (including meats and seafood) from the menu and steam over a broth on your table. Eat the remaining soup with rice or noodles. A great, tasty and remarkably healthy dish.

And it’s cheap, too.

KABUTO TOKYO

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JAPANESE / FUSION 45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 2351 11am to 1.30am Aiming to add some "Nippon (Japanese) culture” to Saigon’s dining scene, Kabuto Tokyo offers typical Japanese cuisine such as sushi and sashimi, fusion dishes like Kabuto Mushi and steamed Vietnamese seafood, and various skewers (roasted pork, Yakitori chicken) with salted rice and soy flavoured rice malts. The restaurant itself mixes Manga cartoons on the walls with golden ceilings and traditional Japanese armour, swords and huge carp steamer lantern displays.

OOO / MARUSAN YAKITORI / CHICKEN RESTAURANT 37 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 3911 9000 www.yakitori-ooo.com 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Possibly one of the most eye-catching

Japanese restaurants in town, this snug two-storey space mixes light wooden and bare industrial brick decor with a downstairs wooden topped bar area and upstairs cubby holes for semi-private dining. Serving all things chicken from hotpots and yakitori fare through to deep fried chicken on a huge bed of dried chillis, the trilingual menu also includes Korean soju, saki, a big selection of wine and imported Japanese beer.

OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 11am to 3am Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm Sunday If you like your noodles in every possible form and prefer them to be Japanese, then this sleek, open-kitchened contemporary eatery may just be a little slice of heaven. Served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes, the ramen are supplemented by a range of smaller, appetizing sides. The Phu My Hung branch is on Nguyen Duc Canh next to S’Cottage.

SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr 7am to 10pm Now on its third location, the simply designed Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular. Two floors with a mixture of standard and sit-on-the-floor seating cater for a cosmopolitan clientele. The cuisine takes on the full Korean food spreadsheet with everything from banchan starters, kim chi and bulgoggi through to barbecues, claypot mixed rice and awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

{cafe CRITIQUE} PHOTO BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

YAMANEKO

SOONI DORRY RIGHT SMACK IN THE MIDDLE OF villas and apartment buildings in Phu My Hung is a three-floor café called Sooni Dorry (55 Duong So 6, Khu Pho Hung Phuoc 4, Q7).

This neighbourhood café is like hundreds in the area but what does it offer that sets it a wee bit apart? Here’s the list:

1) Coffee Okay so that’s nothing new. It’s a café, so it better have some coffee. But there’s two kinds to choose from — the famous illy blend or Sooni Dorry’s very own home blend. Drinks are priced affordably between VND30,000 to VND70,000. The iced coffee drinks are deliciously good particularly the café mocha and caramel macchiato. Don’t order the usual Vietnamese-style ca phe da or ca phe sua da because they don’t serve it here.

2) Musigaru If you are looking to drink something nutritious but delicious, you can find the Korean multigrain drink Musigaru here.

True to its tagline as the “healing café”, Musigaru is known to be rich in vitamins and minerals and is said to help reduce cholesterol, prevent greying of hair, and reduce susceptibility to diabetes and heart disease. Made from black bean, black sesame seeds, barley and rice, this healing drink is priced at VND50,000.

DRINKS: 4/5

3) Beyond Coffee Not your usual café, Sooni Dorry serves snacks and real meals.

If you’re bringing your kid, you can choose from their kids menu starting at VND55,000 a dish. But wait. There’s more!

This café also serves beer and yes snacks that go with beer too!

4) Private Function Room At the second floor, customers who crave privacy can make use of the second floor area. If you’re looking to have a meeting with a small group, this would be a good place to do it.

5) Kids Cafe Another notable feature of Sooni Dorry is that it’s kid-friendly.

Parents can enjoy a hot cup of coffee or eat breakfast undisturbed while their kids are kept busy in the play area on the third floor. For an entrance fee of VND50,000, your kid can keep themselves amused in the brightly lit play area while café personnel watches over your kid. There is also a camera installed so parents can still keep an eye on their kids through the TV set-up in the dining area, and it’s on MUTE. Whether you’re just stopping by between errands or looking to relax with your family, Sooni Dorry is worth the visit.

AMBIENCE: 4/5

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko–vn.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 1am Tucked away in an alley off Le Thanh Ton, the funky Yamaneko offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Including dishes such as buta no syoga yaki tesuko (grilled pork marinated in ginger sauce) and rafute soba tesoku (Okinawa soba noodle with soft stewed pork). Standard Japanese fare is also on hand if you don’t want to dive into something a little different. Does a great set lunch deal

MID TO TOP FUJI RESTAURANT

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Ground floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon, 235 Nguyen Van Cu Street, Q1, Tel: 3830 8123 Lunch: 11:00 - 14:30 Dinner: 18:00 - 22:30 Fuji restaurant offers luxury Japanese cuisine in Saigon such as Teppanyaki, sushi and Japanese dishes. All ingredients are prepared two Japanese Chefs from Tokyo and Osaka. The big selection of wine, sake and premium Japanese Wagyu beef. Tasty set lunch menus start VND 252.000++.

INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3829 0326 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita. Originally from Osaka this old hand travelled the world prior to serving a stint at the former Omni Hotel (now Moevenpick). His present venture features diminutive downstairs bar seating and upstairs space together with some of the best sushi and sashimi in town. The key is not just in the cutting and preparation, but in the ingredients and presentation.

Here it is faultless.

SUSHI DINING AOI SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 Tel: 3930 0039, www.sushidiningaoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. All sushi dishes are prepared by a professional sushi chef from Japan.

Tasty set lunches start from a very reasonably priced VND90,000.

URAETEI BBQ RESTAURANT JAPANESE BBQ 2A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 6673 9373 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Cool and dark, this forest grotto of a restaurant deals in natural finishes and a sense of isolated calm, all added to by private booths and food prepared at the table. Dishes include salty fish/squid, fresh raw beef, smoked chicken, fried pork cutlet, seafood pizza, sukiyaki and shabu shabu hot pot. The speciality here, though, is yakiniku, traditional Japanese grilled meat. Delicious.

RESTAURANTS – SOUTHEAST ASIAN

BUDGET CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

MID-RANGE BAAN THAI PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 5453 www.baanthai-anphu.com 11am to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday. Open until midnight on Friday and Saturday Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating fill the restaurant and lounge bar area of this eatery on the main drag in An Phu. The menu focuses on a range of rice, noodle, fried and curry dishes with a mix of other fare including a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as a selection of salads, including the likes of the firey larb moo and Laotian som tam.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn 11am to 10pm Whitewashed décor with a distinctly Thai theme – images of the Royal family, elephant embroidery and more – provide the atmosphere at this excellent, longrunning restaurant. The fare runs from laab salads (from VND75,000) through to curries (from VND75,000), traditional Thai mains, som tam (VND70,000), fish cakes and dishes such as the deep-fried catfish with mango salad (VND75,000). Has three VIP rooms upstairs.

JASMINE THAI PAN-THAI Tel: 3519 0038 Tues to Sun 5pm to 9.30pm A cosy, Thai-style garden dining area with a children’s playroom, this eatery off the main drag in An Phu provides soft, candle-lit lighting, Thai music and a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine runs the gamut from Bangkok Thai through to Laotian and Isaan cuisine, with anything from massaman and green curries through to lap ped and mains such as phad prew wan gai. Also does an efficient District 2 delivery service that includes The Manor and Saigon Pearl.

LION CITY

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SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic five-storey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

MONSOON RESTAURANT & BAR SAIGON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: 6290 8899 10am to 11pm Located minutes away from the backpacker area in a beautifully restored French colonial-era villa, Monsoon Restaurant & Bar Saigon specialises in pan-Southeast Asian cuisine from Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. Reasonably priced, with a great selection of health-conscious smoothies and juices, expect traditional favourites served in a boldly contemporary and visually arresting setting.

NATHALIE'S PAN-THAI S9 Hung Vuong 3, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 www.nathaliesrestaurant.com 7am to 10pm Both a cafe and a restaurant, its corner location on the opposite side of the highway from KFC has gained Nathalies's

a reputation among Vietnamese, Asian expats and more. Claiming to serve up 'Thai Fine Cuisine', all cooked without MSG, and with a particular focus on seafood, mains on the pan-Thai menu go for between VND100,000 and VND200,000.

Also has an outdoor Thai noodle stand.

MID-TO-TOP KOH THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 4423, www.kohthai.vn 11am to 12am daily A modern Thai fusion restaurant that merges traditional Thai flavours with contemporary European presentation and cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus on set menus while the evening fare concentrates on a la carte. An extensive wine list and creative cocktails merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

VICKI’S TEPPANYAKI & BBQ 42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3232, www.vickis.com.vn 11am to 11pm Offering teppanyaki-style live cooking over seven floors, this completely non-smoking restaurant is fun for all the family. Headed up by Thailand’s No. 1 teppanyaki chef, the all-Thai cheffing team possess an arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, with each chef preparing the food in front of guests on a traditional teppanyaki-style grill.

Offering fresh local and imported meats and seafood at market prices, customers can also choose from an extensive set menu ranging from around VND500,000 to VND1.2 million per person

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE

NAM GIAO

188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3930 3917 6am to 10pm Set down an alleyway in an outdoor courtyard with an additional indoor dining space, this well-known eatery specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak.

Served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, you can add pate or an egg, all for well under VND100,000.

Has a second restaurant at 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. English menu available.

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3825 0261 www.namgiao.com 7.30am to 10pm Set down an alleyway opposite Ben Thanh market and surrounded by a bizarre plethora of hole-in-the-wall beauty salons, this pleasantly attired, long-running Huestyle eatery is known for its excellent bun bo-style soups and central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen and much more. All the mains go for under VND50,000. Has a second eatery on Suong Nguyet Anh.

BO NE LE HONG STEAK / BANH CUON 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 5106 11.30am to 22.30pm Stuffed down an alleyway close to the intersection of Huynh Van Banh and Le Van Sy, the bo ne offering at this fancooled, plastic stool eatery is one of the best in town. Served up sizzling with pate, fried egg, onions, chips and of course local beef, price-wise Le Hong remains very much a budget option. Is also known for its excellent banh cuon.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1 Tel: 3925 0935 www.comtamthuankieu.com.vn The multi-storey, downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery close to Cho Ray Hospital. Swathed in yellow and green and packed all day long, the fare here is everything com tam (bitty rice) - think suon nuong (barbecued pork), xiu mai (meatballs), thit heo quay (roasted pork), canh kho qua (bitter gourd broth) and muc don thit (squid stuffed with pork). Prices are cheap, too with the standard meal going for around VND30,000. Has an English menu.

PAPAYA RESTAURANT PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 10am to 10pm The work of the eponymous owner and head chef Chi Nghia, Papaya is one of the city's unsung gems. Tucked down a tangle of streets near the canal on the edge of District 1, the cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap, too, with mains going for well under VND100,000, and portions are also on the large side. Well worth a visit

PHAP HOA VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3839 5893 6am to 9pm If you desire service with a smile, avoid Phap Hoa. This vegetarian eatery is a truly functional place, with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with faux meat such tomato stuffed with pork and meat-filled cabbage rolls sitting alongside mushroom, tomato and tofu fare. It tastes good, too. Just don’t expect the staff to bat you more than an eyelid.

RESTAURANTS – VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills.

The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes.

Beefsteak Nam Son

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110 | Word October 2012

food Promos CARAVELLE HOTEL

On Oct. 8 Nineteen is adding more dishes for Canadian Thanksgiving. A feast of Asian and western classics, fresh and cooked-to-order many kinds of seafood, oysters, premium grilled and barbecued cuts and more.

The star will be a whole roast turkey accompanied by stuffing, giblet, and cranberry sauce; together with favourite holiday foods. Priced at VND1,170,000 ++/ pax including free flow of red, rose, white wines.

The Lobby Lounge is offering three types of freshly handrolled chocolate truffles with a flute of Taitingger Champagne from Oct. 8 to Oct. 21. Priced at VND380,000++.

If extravagant and fresh seafood is your reason for gathering at Restaurant Nineteen’s buffet dinner, then do come again on the promotion week of Oct. 10 to Oct. 21.

Shellfish enthusiasts can indulge with just-caught mussels, oysters, flower crab, scallops, prawns, clams and sea cockles.

Priced at VND1,170,000++/ pax including free flow of red, rose or white wines.

On Oct. 11 at Reflections, Ronald Otto will represent the Bodegas Lan winery during a five-course prix fixe dinner.

Standout vintages from the legendary Rioja valley will be paired with a Spanish-inspired menu from the hotel's chef.

For the fourth course, diners will enjoy an award-winning Culmen Reserva 2005 served with lamb shank and truffle ballottine, lamb broth couscous and tomato sauce, to be followed by cream Catalane and galletas Murcianas for dessert. Priced at VND1,480,000 net/pax.

Saigon Saigon Bar is launching its own two-for-one happy hour deal from 4pm to 8pm daily. Patrons who order one Tiger Draft beer or glass of wine will receive the next one

112 | Word October 2012

on the house. www.caravellehotel.com HOTEL EQUATORIAL

Balade en France 3rd edition returns on Oct. 26 & Oct. 27 with importers and major French restaurants joining forces to offer the best local recipes that come perfectly with white, red or rosé wines. Two return flight tickets to Paris await you in a lucky draw.

Throughout October at Chit Chat @ The Café, restaurant diners can enjoy a French dinner buffet with dishes such as stuffed pig trotter braised with wild mushroom, Foie gras Poele, a selection of French cheeses and more. Priced at VND760,000 ++/ adult.

Discover many kinds of crab cooking at Orientica throughout October and November. Crab lovers can choose from a wide selection of crab, mud crab, crab roe, simmer crab and soft shell crab in a variety of cooking ways such as wok-fried with salted egg yolk sauce, stir fried supreme soy sauce and more.

Email dine@hcm.equatorial.com NEW WORLD

Held from Oct. 3 to Oct. 14, Parkview will be offering a Korean food promotion titled Flavors of Korea. With over 28 years of culinary experience at many international hotels and fine restaurants, including The Westin Chosun Busan Hotel, guest chef Song will serve over 30 hot dishes, salads and pickles featuring exotic flavours and fresh ingredients imported directly from Korea such as kimchi, Korean salads, bulgogi (soy marinated beef), japche (sweet potato noodle), bibimbab (Korean mixed rice) and Korean barbecue. Priced at VND500,000 net per person for the lunch buffet or VND820,000net per person for the dinner buffet. www.saigon.newworldhotels. com

out & about PHO HOA

See more at wordhcmc.com PARK HYATT SAIGON

Park Hyatt Saigon is proud to debut new customised set dinner menus in Square One and Opera.

The menus will be changed monthly to tantalise the taste buds with new original creations.

Dinner set menus start from VND580,000++.

On Nov. 22 celebrate American Thanksgiving at Square One with a variety of dishes ranging from a glazed duck salad with sweet potatoes and chestnuts to the traditional turkey. Priced at VND990,000++/pax. www.restaurants. parkhyattsaigon.com SHERATON SAIGON

Join them for a German Beer Feast at Saigon Café every Friday night. Dine on a selection of German delicacies from the region including German cold cuts, oven roasted pork knuckle and many kinds of mouthwatering sausages. Dinner is priced at VND920,000++ per person.

Level 23 Signature will have a German contemporary set menu for Oktoberfest. Executive Chef Jens Heier coming from Germany will offer a five-course menu.

Enjoy a night with a single malt whisky at Lobby Lounge. There is a special offer of buy one get one free. Experience a glass of Glenfiddich, Macallan, Ballantine or Highland Park 12 Year old pricing from VND110,000++ per glass. Offer available during October, 7pm onwards.

The hotel in collaboration with Diageo is organising a big competition at the food and beverage venues within the Sheraton. Purchase a cocktail made from Diageo’s products to have the chance to win a BMW 320i. The lucky draw will take place on Dec. 27 at Level 23 Nightspot. The BMW 320i is on display in the lobby until the lucky draw date.

Email sheratonsaigon@ sheraton.com

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3829 7943 6am to midnight Everything at this famous but strikingly traditional pho joint is largesse. From the size of the portions through to the plates of banh quay and fresh herbs as well as the myriad of other accoutrements, it’s all double-sized. Fortunately looks don’t deceive and this distinctly southern version of Vietnam’s national dish tastes good, too. Choose from a range of cuts of beef and spice to taste. Gets busy so expect to share tables.

PHO 99 PHO / STEAK 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 2791 6am to 2.30am Although essentially one the city's better pho restaurants, putting Vietnam's most iconic dish in a pleasant aircon setting, the two-storey, late-night Pho 99 is also known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of local beef bought in Cu Chi. Served up with mushrooms, onions and fries, the dish goes for well under VND100,000 a go, and is one of the best beefy bargains in town. It tastes good, too.

QUAN HO GUOM HANOI STREET FOOD 177 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3836 9185 This local, chrome table-topped eatery may not look like much, but except for the addition of Saigonese-style fresh herbs it does some pretty tasty and authentic Hanoi street fare. Dishes include the moreish bun cha (rice noodles with barbecue pork), nem ran cua bien (deepfried crab spring rolls), bun mang ga (rice noodle chicken and bamboo shoots soup) and banh cuon thanh tri (wet rice paper rolls), all at budget prices. Also sells decent com binh dan (rice plate dishes) at lunchtime. No English menu.

SAIGON VEGAN VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3834 4473 7am to 2pm. 4pm to 10pm A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat. Furnished with dark rustic wooden tables and chairs, Japanese-style wooden carvings and tropical foliage on the terrace area outdoors, the specialities here are the hotpots and the daily specials. But the vegan menu runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes.

Also has a range of sautéed fair.

TIN NGHIA VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3821 2538 7am to 2pm, 4pm to 9pm One of the city’s oldest eateries (it was established in 1925), this plain but charming holistic little venue located close to Ben Thanh Market also does some of the tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Cooked up without onions, garlic and MSG, the fare ranges from curry noodles and fried rice through to a tantalizing selection of non-faux méat tofu and mushroom dishes. It’s cheap, too, and the menu is also in English.

VIET CHAY VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3848 3399 www.vietchay.vn 7am to 9.30pm Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received plaudits aplenty thanks to its contemporary Buddhist, feng shui-inspired setting, almost reverent ambience and interesting menu. With a regular buffet (check for details), eight specialities are also on show from salted tofu in claypot through to hundred flowers hotpot and Viet Chay spring rolls. Also sells a range of appetizers, vegetables, salads and creative mains.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

BARBECUE GARDEN VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 3823 3340 www.barbecuegarden.com 11am to 11pm A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. Specialising in all things barbecue, the menu goes from western and Vietnamese appetizers and salads through to combos, a la carte meats and seafood, vegetarian options, desserts and a kids menu. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair so expect smoke and lots of fun, too. A great place for groups and parties.

CUC GACH QUAN MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh, the cuisine here is good, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients, together with a selection of more contemporary options.

HIGHWAY 4 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3602 2069 www.highway4.com 10am to 11.30pm The first Saigon version of the well-known Hanoi restaurant chain, Highway 4 is named after the six-thronged mountain highway that skirts the ChineseVietnamese border to the north. Serves up authentic Vietnamese cuisine and drink that reflects the ambience of the north and wider Vietnam, all set in a pleasant environment — the upstairs area has Asian-style, long-table, on the floor seating. Also does the excellent Son Tinhbranded rice wine liquors, with flavours ranging from plum to wild mountain apple.

HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

Also runs separate cooking classes.

LAU XE LUA PAN ASIAN HOTPOT Ground Level, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 6111 A Japanese-style rotating conveyor belt restaurant that substitutes sushi

and sashimi for hotpot, diners order their preferred broth – choosing from Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Thai style – each with their own individual pot. Customers can choose from an assortment of fresh ingredients, such as thinly sliced meat, fresh seafood and leafy vegetables, to be cooked on a high-tech electric panel, tailor-making their own dipping sauce by mixing and matching a selection of condiments.

LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt.

Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

MAY RESTAURANT 5/2 Hoang Sa, Dakao, Q1 Tel: 3910 1277 May, meaning cloud in English, is a spacious Vietnamese restaurant opened

by French-Italian-Vietnamese restaurateur, Thai Tu Tho. Decorated with 20th century Indochine in mind, the restaurant is spacious and situated in a villa in the heart of Dakao ward, has a touch of understated luxury about it, too. Utilizing homemade broths developed by Tu Tho’s father, the restaurant also uses authentic homemade recipes such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls.

NHA HANG NGON STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn 7am to 10pm A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a converted colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented and loved Vietnamese eateries. Specialising in pan-Vietnamese street food cooked up in a hygienic environment using quality ingredients, dishes cost between VND40,000 and VND100,000 each. Not surprisingly the place gets packed out with noisy diners, so best to book.

the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

MID TO TOP BO LAC 3 (LOST COW 3) STEAKHOUSE 71/3 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 8023 www.lostartsaigon.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm If décor could have a voice of its own, here it would be loud, clear, sophisticated and very funky, such is the contemporary but very retro feel to this more recent addition to Alley Number 71. With a menu focusing on steaks, four cuts of either imported or locally produced beef are on offer, all served up with a range of sauces.

For additional vegetables and sides, order separately.

CAFÉ IF 38 Dang Dung, Q1 Tel: 3846 9853 6am to 10pm Located in the grounds of a beautifully restored Indochina-French colonial villa, Café IF is completely non-smoking and offers a concise array of MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew for breakfast, while all lunch and dinner mains come with a choice of different meats and fish, cooked in various styles such as stir fry, hot pot and curry. Has a comprehensive selection of wines, cocktails and fresh fruit juice, too.

QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1 Tel: 3602 2241 / 01286 252351 7am to 10pm Popular with foreigners and Vietnamese, Quan Bui offers an extensive menu and

reasonable prices. No MSG or sugar added and food is served in traditional pots/ crockery. This restaurant is worth visiting for its high quality food, chic black tables and inviting ambience. Western food also available but make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge.

NAM PHAN PAN-VIETNAMESE 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC Tel: 3933 3636 www.khaisilkcorp.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch This purpose-built, four-storey building is coated in greys, browns and creams mixed in with the Imperial architecture of Hue, Chinese imagery and Terracotta Army-style columns. All helps to create the perfect, eloquent atmosphere for fine dining in a Vietnamese context. The cuisine mixes well-known dishes from the various regions of Vietnam, all served up with a contemporary and welcome twist.

Good wine list.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 6pm to 11pm An elegant, contemporary restaurant whose unique décor has influenced the design of so many other eateries in town, five years of operation has seen Xu evolve into a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare here ranges from the likes of banh cuon thit heo through to pork wanton, bun cha, seared beef crostini, bo luc lac and Xu-style chicken rice, all served up with a modern twist.

TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3829 9244 11.30am to 10.30pm Once a hotel for French Pondicherry Indian dignitaries visiting both old Saigon and the Hindu temple opposite, this converted floor of one of the city’s best-preserved buildings is home to the elegant, refined and atmospheric Temple Club. Serving quality cuisine from the three main regions of the country, impeccable presentation and the occasional modern twist makes this a great place to entertain. For the colonial setting, the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

TIB HUE / VIETNAMESE 187ter Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3829 7242 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Formerly owned by composer Trinh Cong Son, the local equivalent of Bob Dylan, this iconic, local institution mixes dark brown Hue-style, Indochine décor with sullen lighting, white tablecloths and a more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. The fare is all Imperial Hue — goi thanh tra, banh uot thit nuong, bun hen and much more. For

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{in the frame}

SOUND & VISION LISTINGS

ARTS CLASSES 114 BOOKS & MAGAZINES 114 GALLERIES 115 LIVE MUSIC VENUES 116 PERFORMING ARTS 118 PRODUCTION COMPANIES 119

ARTS CLASSES HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

AN ABSTRACTED VIEW SOME 22 ABSTRACT PAINTINGS graced the Tu Do Gallery last September by artist Tran The Vinh. This 26-year old native from Quang Tri Province arrived in Saigon last year and since then has been busy working on his projects.

Vinh, who graduated from the Fine Arts University of Hue, has been holding exhibitions since 2005. He has done so previously in Hanoi and Hue but his recent exhibition of 22 untitled paintings is his first in Saigon.

Born as the fourth child in a family of five, he was the only one who showed interest in the arts. At age six, he was already actively painting and in fact assisting his father, an amateur painter himself, with commissioned works that included painting houses, pagodas and temples.

After graduating in 2010, he worked in Danang and collaborated with some 100 artists to design an amusement park in the same province. However, tired of creating works for other people, Vinh came to Saigon to produce his own works. His interest lies in creating abstract, figurative, and landscape paintings in oil or acrylic.

Vinh is an expressionist painter much influenced by his art professor Vinh Phoi, Van

114 | Word October 2012

Gogh, Gaugin and De Kooning.

INTERPRETING WAR His most recent works capture his feelings from his travel and life in Hue, Danang and Saigon, as well as his interpretation of the movement of society in current times.

With strong, purposeful strokes, Vinh creates art that is brooding with tinges of vibrant colours. One must take time to sit and let his art sink in to fully appreciate the melding of colours that is reflected in his paintings.

His next project is a series of 10 paintings showing his interpretation of war-torn Quang Tri Province. As a young boy, he has seen the remnants of the devastation of the American War that befell his hometown. In fact, his father was a soldier of the South Vietnam Army and Vinh’s feelings on the war is something he would like to capture on canvas. He hopes to present the works in early 2013.

Some of Vinh’s works can still be seen at Tu Do Gallery in Ham Nghi while a few shall be shipped to Gwangju, South Korea participating in the international exhibition on Nov. 29 to Dec. 5.

— Lyra Dacio Visit www.tudoart.com to see Vinh’s work or email him at thevinhart@gmail.com

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780 www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults. Has a permanent exhibition at Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

THE TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHERS WORKSHOP Peter Stuckings and Mark Stennett are professional travel photographers based in Ho Chi Minh City who offer workshops and tours to help you improve your photography skills. For more information on dates and prices, check out www. facebook.com/TheTravelPhotographers or email them on pstuckings@gmail.com or mark@driftphototours.com

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A new creative group invites new members every second Tuesday in the evening for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire.

All levels are welcome from beginners to more experienced. Contact John by phone or e-mail.

VIN SPACE 4 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0983 377710 www.shyevin.com Vin’s Space is a cosy, intimate, light-filled space that offers artists of all kinds a quiet space to work individually and share ideas and perspectives. Runs various weekly classes, including oil painting, drawing, figurative drawing and painting, and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

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COLUMNS IN THE FRAME 114 FOR THE RECORD 1145 ROAD RULES 116 DECKS, DRUMS & ROCK & ROLL 117 BAND & DJ 118

BOOKS & MAGAZINES ARTBOOK 43 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3502 1559 www.artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. Not only are the products current, but they also cover areas from art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping. Magazine titles in stock include the likes of FutureArc, GA Houses and Landscape World. The back room doubles up as an art gallery.

FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 www.fahasasg.com.vn 8am to 10pm Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English, French, Chinese and Vietnamese.

International best sellers, children’s books and toys and educational and professional textbooks are all available. Think the Vietnamese version of Waterstone’s or Borders and you’re somewhat close to understanding what this quality bookstore chain is all about.

FRENCH BOOKSHOP NAM PHONG 94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 7859 Set in a mixed colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallicrun bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications with a selection of second– hand Folio editions. Also stocks art books, coffee table books and French comics.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC) 2A Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 9650 www.pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City as well as other outlets throughout the country, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam.

Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction on non-fiction as well as over 2,000 English language titles from publishers such as HarperCollins, Random House and Penguin — the fiction available ranges from classic and modern literature through to detective novels, horror, thriller and children’s books. If you’re looking for bestseller-list titles from overseas, this is the place to start your search.

SAHABOOK 175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6290 6599 www.sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, the travel titles here range from titles on Eastern Europe to East Timor and city guides through to maps.

sound & vision Also stocks non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, bills/coin collections and travel fiction.

GALLERIES

the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things. Recent works include The Happening, a year-long project that sees a solo installation by a different artists showcased every fortnight until November 2011.

BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3821 3695 www.bluespacearts.com 9am to 5pm With its ochre walls and internal courtyard complete with a quaint bridge, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center is an attraction unto itself. Inside the 120sqm space, local expert Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia, from sculptures and luridly coloured abstract paintings to contemporary representations of timeless Vietnamese themes: village scenes, willowy girls in ao dais and water buffaloes in fields.

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 4441 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. The first floor displays changing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. Move one level up and the galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, featuring sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to various colonial rulers. The third floor exhibits older works from the first century AD through to the early 20th century. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement, accessed through the courtyard in the centre of the building.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878 317 (Ms. Mai) www.cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner on the outer reaches of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery (CTG) offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists.

CTG has been in operation since 2009 although its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade and has mentored a number of now well-known and highly regarded Vietnamese artists.

CTG features primarily emerging and mid-career artists and has a regular schedule of exhibitions both at its main gallery space in District 1 and its satellite exhibition space in the Thao Dien Ward of District 2.

DUC MINH GALLERY 31C Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn 9am to 6pm Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock colonial mansion constitutes the private museum and art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Helpful and friendly English-speaking staff are on hand to guide you through the artists and styles of Vietnamese art on offer. Artists exclusive to the gallery include the twins Le Duc Hai and Le Ngoc Thanh plus Hoai Huong and Vu Thang. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to something approaching astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday Contemporary art gallery Galerie Quynh, initially promoting several of Vietnam’s pioneering abstract painters, now focuses on a wider international programme. In addition to working with a select group of artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of distinguished artists from around the world allowing the local community and visitors access to a diverse range of contemporary art practice. Working with art spaces and curators internationally, the gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON 324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) www.himikokoro.com 8am to 10.30pm Monday to Sunday A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes.

Open for five years, this cafe-cum-gallery, the brainchild of local artist Himiko Nguyen, has a reputation for showcasing

SAIGON GALLERY OF FINE ART 9 Phan Chu Trinh St., Fl 2-3, Q.1 Tel: 38226570 VN +84-919025726 / US +1-714 697 7037 10am - 7pm daily Founded in 1999 with the objective of promoting contemporary Vietnamese art and providing support to young, up-andcoming Vietnamese artists. Various types of art displayed on different media include oil on canvas, lacquer on wood and paper works. The gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website. Specific paintings by Vietnamese artists can be acquired upon request.

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1366 129B Le Thanh Ton Q1 Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 9pm Established in 2004, these two galleries focus on the contemporary art works of both fledgling and experienced Vietnamese artists from across the country. Works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu are displayed and an eclectic range of styles is featured, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism. Mediums mainly feature lacquer on wood and oils on canvas, although some silk paintings are available.

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 www.san–art.org 9.30am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space and reading room dedicated to the exchange and cultivation of contemporary art in Vietnam. It also aims to support the country’s artist community by creating opportunities that provide exhibition space, residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

for the record KREAYSHAWN — SOMETHIN' 'BOUT KREAY SO I'M NOT GOING TO PILE ON Kreay. Those who've already made up their minds about her being a joke rapper, or her "whiny synthpop at a crawling latter-day Britney tempo without the hooks or, gosh, the singing" according to Dan Weiss, or even the Weird Al of the YouTube generation (alright, that one's mine), may have a point. But in closing the door on her strengths, they're missing the relevant part of her story.

I first came by Kreay via a link on Facebook, after a listen, I lost the link and although her lyrics went round and round my head, I couldn’t remember her name. I googled permutations of "bumpin bad bitches lyrics song girl rap" which were the only things I could remember. The world-weary, squeaky monotone, the swoops of mascara reaching toward her hairline, the porno backlighting all stayed locked away in my forgetful AV subconscious.

YouTube Queen When the album was finally launched, the first product of a record deal signed on the strength of two catchy YouTube videos, I read the blurb, and something registered. I listened to that half-forgotten monotone over the swirling electronic freneticism and spent the next five minutes,

smiling in recognition. Then I lost several more five minute chunks, mostly watching her new videos, which have to be the best part of this thing we call Kreay, a riot of negative space fluorescence shimmering off cartoon style graffiti, eyeball backdrops, dancing cupcakes, goofy white girl hip drops to the occasionally dense beats of Diplo, Boys Noise and DJ Two Stacks.

Her album isn't too great minus the visuals, but that's okay.

She's more a master of repeated throwaway lines like "I got all the syrup, I got, I got all the syrup", the dorky curled lip dance move, the offkilter boast, too frivolous to be taken seriously and "Call me Kreay Hefner, Kreayboy bunny" — the neon green superimposed non sequitur followed by seven exclamation points.

To some, her ‘thing’ seems lifted wholly from internet memes, detritus of the distraction generation; those things that take up the time we could otherwise be devoting to reading a book or learning to tango.

Kreay works with the material she's been given and puts a funky beat to it, doesn't take herself too seriously and hasn't yet resorted to using feline sound effects. Is there anything more we can ask of our reigning YouTube queen?

TUDO GALLERY 53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city artists. It aims to promote the works

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of contemporary Vietnamese artists to domestic and foreign art appreciators.

Rules

ZEROSTATION

Pat Joynt, of Saigon Scooter Centre, has been in Vietnam for 15 years, and working in the scooter and motorcycle industry for 30 years, restoring classic bikes, importing and producing parts. To ask Pat a question about your motorbike, email roadrules@wordhcmc.com

288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 www.zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and long-term art project managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy. With a small installation room and two beds, artists can also participate in ZeroStation’s art residency programme.

LIVE MUSIC VENUES ACOUSTIC

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6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Tel: 3930 2239 7pm until late Though only 1km from the heavily touristic downtown area, Acoustic is well off most foreigner’s radars. The allVietnamese house band performs every night, playing mostly western covers, and the space is perpetually jammed with young locals either bopping away in the crowd or getting up on stage. Known for being notoriously busy at the weekends, arrive by 7.30pm to stand any chance of getting a seat. Those with a love for heartfelt rock balladry and heavy rock n’ roll should check this place out on Friday nights. Has occasional guest bands from overseas.

BAR BUI 39/2 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3824 1963 lodgebui@gmail.com 10am to 12am Also known as Dust Lodge, Bar Bui resembles Seventeen Saloon with its red and blue neon lighting, bricked walls, wooden roof, columns and beams. It hosts live flamenco and country music every night from 8.30pm courtesy of three Filipino house bands.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ Hi Pat, I read that foreigners were only allowed to drive motorbikes of up to 175cc in Vietnam, is that right?

Thanks, Recently arrived in Saigon, expat biker The problem isn’t that foreigners are not allowed to ride larger capacity bikes the problem is that the general a1 licence only covers bikes up to 175cc. I first tried to get an overseas full bike transferred into Vietnamese back in the 90s. After going through the whole process of getting my UK licence notorised and translated, etc, I still wasn’t issued with an a2.

So, basically regardless of what overseas licence you have the licencing authority will only issue you the basic a1 licence.

I’ve never in all this time been

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given a reason why they do not honour the overseas equivalent.

But then again they don’t officially honour any overseas licence or International Driving permits either as Vietnam is not a signatory to the International Driving Permit system. The only other option is to legally apply to do the a2 test and then be issued with a genuine a2 licence.

Last time a friend of mine did this it was in Tan Binh District near Cong Hoa Street.

The test was actually taken but the written test was just signed off. The down side to this is that it cost over US$1,000.

Another option is to become a member of one of the big bike clubs. This is usually by invitation only as the clubs seem to be very elitist. As a member it makes things a lot easier apparently. The official line for this is that the following

groups are only eligible for a2 licence application — military or police, taxation, customs, forestry management and market watch agencies, or other individuals or organisations for sport purposes. The latter opens up the option for bike club membership.

Hi Pat, How do I know when it's time to get a new battery?

Most batteries are sealed units these days so there is no real way to check unless the battery continually loses its charge even after re-charging.

On our scooters and rental bikes we usually replace the battery every 18 months, more frequently sometimes if the bike has an electric start or if the bike has been stood for a long period without use.

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9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 8am to 1am This sleekly designed café morphs into a trendy live music nightspot with a selection of resident and guest DJs to be found behind the Sarato-programmed decks. Expect a multitude of electronic sounds, from deep and liquid house to lounge, disco, chill out, hip-hop and a bevy of instrumentals you’ve heard before but can’t quite put your finger on.

CACOPHONY 57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 9am to 11pm This unique establishment sets itself apart from other live music venues in Saigon as the city’s first 3D-themed café. Each floor of this French-colonial three-storey villa has been designed as a homage to both Sagionese and Hanoian street café culture.

The ground floor is where the live music happens every Wednesday to Sunday from 9pm to 11pm with pop, rock and country sets performed by the growing plethora of local bands.

CARMEN 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3829 7699 6pm to 1am The inspiration for Carmen is the popular opera named, naturally, Carmen. In place of European leads are the musical talents of a local band as well as Filipino and Vietnamese lead singers crooning to Latin beats. As if being a venue built on Flamenco music was not enough to stand out in Saigon, it further differentiates itself with a cabin-like exterior, steep stairs, a small cavernous-type entrance

and an interior highlighted by rough rock walls, wood beams and candle-lit beer keg tables.

JARDIN D’AMOUR 8Bis Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 6679 2406 9am to 11pm A quirky, French-style café with a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Each evening from 8.30pm the self-titled ‘Garden of Love’ houses live music with different themes such as Tien Chien Night (pre-war Vietnamese music), International Covers Night and Lovers Night. The stage is a quaint miniature theatre-style set up with white picket fencing and a painted backdrop of a garden positioned next to a tiny raised balcony where a pianist serenades customers every Monday night. Romantic ballads can be heard every Tuesday and rock every Friday.

LA HABANA

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6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com Saigon cover band stalwarts Carmen & Brothers play an eclectic selection of well known hits by the likes of Michael Jackson, Leona Lewis and Bon Jovi every night of the week except Mondays. The music usually starts at 9pm but arrive early to ensure prime seating in the lounge.

METALLIC BAR

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41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: 3930 3154 www.metallicbar.com 9pm to 1am A popular destination for both locals and foreigners with a hankering for live rock music and a totally smokefree atmosphere, Metallic Bar is one of Saigon’s most established live music venues. Longtime house band, The

Yellow, a host of Filipino singers and numerous local Vietnamese bands can be seen rocking out to ferocious covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and CCR on a nightly basis between 9pm and 12am before a DJ takes to the decks to perform a selection of contemporary dance, hip hop and r n’ b tunes through to the early hours.

decks, drums & rock n' roll

NAPOLY BAR 7 Pham Ngoc Thanh, Q3, Tel: 3829 0583 www.napolybar.com 7pm until 12am Named after the famed southern Italian city, the ground floor seating of this popular and somewhat upscale café looks and feels like it came straight out of Italy itself. The upstairs bar in the back is the place to catch local Vietnamese band Quoc Anh play classic 1980s hits every night from 9pm to midnight.

A band comes together — Ed Weinberg talks with Sunless's Matt Bender about it.

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon 7pm till late Tuesday to Sunday One of Saigon’s chicest venues with some of the most awe-inspiring views of the city, this hotel bar offers nightly live music (except on Mondays) from 9pm courtesy of the multinational sextet Motion. Expect a bit of everything from r&b, dance and jazz to hip-hop, rap and rock.

PACHARAN

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97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 6024 9am to midnight Wednesdays and Fridays are the nights to catch local favourites such as cover band circuit legend Juram, and latin pop group Warapo. Juram is known for his gravelvoiced versions of anthems by Nirvana, Pink Floyd and Metallica, while Warapo serve up a very physical offering live and exotic Cuban salsa music.

SUNLESS IS THE SECOND CHRIS Marker-related name Matt Bender's band has had, a leap in environmental magnitude from the wave-lapping imagery of La Jetée — quite a lot for a band that's only played one show (at DeciBel).

But Matt isn't fazed by ambition.

He’s been in bands all his life, from performing Nirvana covers at 14 to playing guitar, accordion and drums with the pop-psych Visitations, under the indie quirkpop umbrella of the Elephant 6 Recording Company.

Take some Nick Cave moodiness, surf rock naiveté, electronic improvisation and a welded percussion section, and let it sprawl out under Matt's weirdo troubadour. They have a synth flown in from Portland and something they call the Horrorshow.

About that: Jeromeo Pichard met Matt at a party, a percussionist without a drum kit.

"I said, 'F**k drum sets anyway, they're too hard to carry, they're too loud, let's build a Horrorshow!

Let's get some saw blades, some car tires — if you can hit it, it makes a sound.' Instead of dismissing the thing as a drunken party idea he started texting me the next day."

Alex McCarl teaches people to use iPads for music, and doubles as the only person this writer has

ever had a barroom conversation about Alejandro Jodorowsky with.

And Julia Fearn-Wannan is one of these guitar players Matt was constantly meeting upon first hitting Saigon in January. Except she's very good.

"She sits down and starts playing di-di-di-di-di-di, dii-dii-diidii-dii-dii — you know, the intro for Johnny B. Goode! And the guitar's bigger than she is."

AN UNSURE FUTURE Matt writes the songs these days, "sketches and amalgamations of ex-girlfriends, dead relatives, people I kind of remember. None of it's concrete. I'll never be like [his voice drops an octave-anda-half] 'You did this to me, and I feel sad!'"

Even if they haven't played a lot, Matt sees potential. All of the principles are sticking around and they're planning on recording something within the next halfyear.

But it's not about the tenuous future. To Matt, it's about the scene, the feeling. "The best thing is you invite all your friends to this place, to do this thing. And it is about you playing, but it's more about getting all your friends at the same place, to hang out with each other."

And this is why Sunless is worth watching.

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sound & vision

sound & vision ROCKFANCLUB BAR

BAND & DJ LISTINGS BAD NEIGHBOUR claualehm@hotmail.com Bad Neighbour plays a combination of Latin and rock with some reggae and rap thrown into the mix. A multinational outfit with nine members, Bad Neighbour can be seen performing on Fridays at Hard Rock Café.

BOB WITTENBACH (BONGO BOB) Tel: 0903 193241 Ex-professional rock, blues, jazz and pop drummer from London who has played with various artists including John Otway, The Breaks and The Scaffold. Has played many gigs in Saigon with Mike Belmes, Curtis King and Juram, among others.

Looking to hook up with like-minded blues/rock musicians interested in bringing an Asian feel to Western themes.

CARMEN & BROTHERS LIVE Acoustic Band carmenandbrothers@yahoo.com facebook.com/lahabanasaigon La Habana’s famous Filipino house band captivates audiences most nights of the week with Carmen’s extraordinary vocal range and an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary pop, r&b, retro, latin, rock and ballads CURTIS KING BAND Tel: 0908 339405 www.curtiskinglive.com A funky, bluesy, travelling rock ‘n’ roll band with an east-meets-west sound.

Founded in 1996, the band has performed all over the world and has been featured on MTV, the BBC, China Central Television, XoneFM Radio and HTV. Having recorded four albums, the band can be caught playing throughout Vietnam and the region. Available for weddings, corporate, embassy, consulate or chamber of commerce events.

DJ AJAM http://djajam.podomatic.com Vasco’s resident DJ Ajam (UK) available for private parties, clubs, bars and versatile in any style of music. With 17 years of DJing experience, Ajam has played at venues worldwide including the worlds number one club brand Pacha.

Now teaching private DJ classes to all ages. DJ equipment and sound system for rent.

DJ JORDAN HOWARD Tel: 01223 447721 whitfield@jordanhoward.net American DJ specialising in eclectic mixes of 1980s, pop, rock, and hip-hop to audiences of all ages and nationalities.

A Vasco's veteran of three years, Jordan has played many balls and corporate events around Vietnam.

DMA: DIGITAL MUSIC AGENCY 380/13B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3843 6459 (ask for Ms. Nhi) www.dma.vn DMA is the first international DJ training centre in Vietnam. Run by professional local and overseas DJs, DMA offers

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training programmes and job opportunities for those wanting to become professional DJs or looking to learn for pleasure. DMA uses the latest professional DJ equipment and software, and doubles up as an events company and talent agency.

EVERYONE’S A DJ everyonesadjvietnam@gmail.com www.everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com One of the top and longest running indie electro, 80s new wave, 50/60s dance parties in Saigon. Its concept is simple: to create a party with a DIY aesthetic heavily rooted in art, film, and design.

Fronted by superkid, the parties occur monthly with rotating DJs and VJs. GILLES SNOWCAT (FROM AWAKEN) www.awaken.be, awamail@hellokitty.com Awaken’s Gilles Snowcat is in Saigon looking to join forces with musicians who don’t want to play it safe in order to make his magnetic soul music caress the eared need apply.

JURAM GAVERO TRIO juramgavero@hotmail.com Juram has been playing around the city for the last 12 years, and is now one of the most popular acts in Ho Chi Minh City. His blend of eclectic music styles gathered from his experiences around the world stand him in good stead to make you enjoy your evening any night of the week.

MARK “MR. JOLLY” JOLLY Tel: 0918 119987 With over 20 years DJing experience and close to a decade playing in Vietnam, Mr Jolly can cover pretty much any musical situation from private parties to the largest club and corporate events.

Can play a wide range of musical styles despite having very little hair.

RISKY RED rickreid@vnn.vn Either a three-piece acoustic light rock combo or a six piece full-on rock ‘n’ roll, blues and boogie, party Band. Regular around Saigon.

THE WANDERLUSTER Tel: 0122 3022 262 davis@wanderlustersvn.com The Wanderlusters are an acoustic, vocally inspired band, outfitted with traditional blurgrass instruments, that plays American roots music. Influenced by country, bluegrass, rock, folk, gospel, and blues, The Wanderlusters play your favourite hillbilly soul songs.

WARAPO BAND Tel: 0933 067752 warapo.production@gmail.com This high-energy seven piece Cuban band brings the sensuality and the passion from the Carribbean. Their music is a unique blend of styles ranging from salsa, merengue, cha cha, reggaeton and pop that’s ideal for events and private parties.

25C Tu Xuong, Q3 Formerly Tadao Coffee Bar, the promoters behind RockFanClub, the long-running underground Vietnamese hard rock and metal night, have moved in, finally giving the city’s moshers a home of their own. Local hard rock and metal bands can be found playing every night of the week from around 9pm at this tiny yet comfortable and cool venue.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR 9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 11am to 2am Cuban bands are a mainstay at this outdoor bar with salsa band Warapo providing a musical melting pot of South American rhythms every Tuesday as part of the hotel’s Havana Ladies Night, while the six-piece Luna Negra like to mix it up with salsa, bachata and merengue on Wednesdays through to Mondays. Both bands start at 9pm.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

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103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3914 0007 www.seventeensaloon.co.vn 7pm until late A favourite among both Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this Wild West-themed bar doubles up as a great live music venue with no less than three highly talented Filipino cover bands rocking out nightly. B & U, Wild West and Most

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox 1 and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3862 2425 www.cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 3775 2521 www.lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: 3849 4567 www.galaxycine.vn

Wanted impressively belt out like-for-like hits by rock staples such as Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses’ while pumping Vietnamese techno blasts out of the speakers in between sets.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH HOUSE

+ 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com 9am to 12am Those in search for a sound of the familiar will find solace at one of Saigon’s longest running bars. A different cover band gets up every night of the week (except Mondays) at this pub-like Celtic establishment. Celtic Band knock out jovial Irish ditties on Tuesdays; the classic rock power of Risky Red and Mr. Bo can be heard on Wednesdays and Fridays; Wonderluster play pop hits on Thursdays, and rollicking Japanese blues group, 12 Bar Blues take over on the weekends.

VASCO’S

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74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12am (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

With two rooms set up to cater to bands and DJs (Yellow Room & Blue Room), Vasco’s is one of Saigon’s most prominent live music venues. Catering mainly to the musical tastes of muso expats, the likes of DJ Premier, Free The Robots, Handsome Furs and Daedelus have headlined this former opium den. Local DJs such as Jordan Howard and DJ Jase regularly put on nights with hip-hop, dubstep, drum n’ bass, reggae and dance firmly on rotation. Local expat latin-punk band Bad Neighbour also plays on most Friday nights.

YOKO 22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 0577 8am until late As the name suggests, John Lennon's wife inspired the name of this excellent bar. Refurbished and expanded in 2011, Yoko is undoubtedly one of the coolest and most unique venues in Saigon, hosting live music nightly from some of the city's best local musicians and bands, including 6789, Microwave and Coconuts.

Expect classic rock, jazz, funk, country, metal, grunge, blues and everything else in-between. An unmissable destination for grassroots and underground music lovers.

perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Shows feature both national and international stars, and take place in one of the most elegant buildings in the city. There are two annual seasons: Spring through summer (January to June) and autumn through winter (July to December), featuring performances every 9th and 19th monthly. Tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC 112 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre is the perfect place for classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to other performance groups in the city. Also provides music education in undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels for the southern region of Vietnam. There are two concert rooms (500 seats and 100 seats) with two performances weekly. To obtain a programme of events, visit the Opera House.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn www.hcmcchoir.com This well–established 40–strong choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3. The Choir’s repertoire includes classic works by Bach, Beethoven, Handel, and Verdi as well as songs from musicals, traditional songs from Britain, Christmas carols in many languages, gospel songs, and national and European Anthems.

SAIGON PLAYERS www.saigonplayers.com saigonplayers@gmail.com A non-profit community theatre group whose mission is to uphold the arts while giving to charity. Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights at 7.30pm every first Wednesday of the month at La Habana and script nights at 7.30pm every third Wednesday of the month at venues alternating between Boomarang Bistro Saigon in Q7 and Geisha's Tea House in Q1.

PRODUCTION COMPANIES CREA TV 339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 7434 www.crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Facilities are located at Thanh Da Island and include two studios (400m2 and 150m2) as well as in-house post-production. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisations and permits, art department, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS 91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10 Tel: 0908 477079 www.factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films is a diverse, creative, bespoke production company built on broad film and media experience. Their team has developed and delivered content worldwide and specialises in TVCs, documentary, web and TV content with vast experience in all stages of production from development through to post production and delivery.

PERFORMING ARTS HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 7419, www.hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING

IDECAF

WI-FI

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 5451 www.idecaf.gov.vn

NON-SMOKING AREA

MEGASTAR CINEMA

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 0088 www.megastar.vn

DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

October 2012 Word | 119

LEISURE & WELLNESS

LISTINGS

LEISURE AMUSEMENT 120 BASKETBALL 120 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 120 COOKING CLASSES 120 CRICKET 120 DANCING 120 FITNESS 120 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 123 GOLF 123 LEISURE - GENERAL 124 SPORTS CLASSES 124 TENNIS 124

LEISURE

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

VIETNAMESE CLASSES 124 YOGA & MEDITATION 124 WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 125 COSMETIC SURGERY 126 DENTAL 126 HAIRDRESSERS 126 MEDICAL 127 PHARMACIES 128 SALONS 128 SPAS 128

SAIGON EXPATS

AMUSEMENT DAI NAM THEME PARK Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 384 5845 6:30am to 5:30pm A mammoth of a place, the superkitsch Dai Nam is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. Just 50km from Ho Chi Minh City past Thu Dau Mot on Highway 13, the amusement park rides include two huge roller coasters, an excellent go kart track, dodgems, kiddy’s bouncy castles and much more. Then there's the well set-up water park, a non-cringe worthy zoo modeled on its counterpart in Singapore, a 5000 sqm temple and the cultural area.

Well worth the VND50,000 ticket price.

LASER TAG 5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun.

Hand over VND40,000 and you’re in for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun. The gaming area is a little on the small side but the equipment all functions well, and you’re provided with a fun and alternative leisure activity. A collection of arcade games can be found in foyer.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTQANICAL GARDENS 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3829 3728 www.saigonzoo.net 7am to 5pm At less than VND10,000 for entry, Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical gardens is a great option for a day out in the city. Dating back to 1875, Saigon has one of the oldest zoos in the world, which makes it a famous site not only for the Vietnamese.

You can get lost amongst the many rare orchids, ornamental plants in the garden or marvel at over one hundred species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Some of the enclosures don’t meet western standards so the wary should steer clear.

BASKETBALL PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB 8 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

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kurtislaw@best.com.vn A basketball night at Saigon South International School every Thursday, open to anyone who wants to play or watch.

Call Kurtis Law on 01265 638 486 to secure an invitation.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM www.ilvietnam.com This long–established social organisation fosters social contacts for women in the city and currently has a membership of 500 women from 42 nations. The group offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Meetings are held at 10am every Thursday at the Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur, Q3. Membership for the first year costs VND700,000; annual renewal is VND500,000.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB 628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3898 9000 www.parklandvn.com 6am to 10pm Opened in 2003 the Parkland Country Club offers a green retreat from the frenetic city with its 2-hectare space in An Phu. The club is able to organise a wide range of activities such as wine tasting and sports tournaments due to its extensive facilities, which include three different dining options, supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, 3 tennis courts, squash courts, a lap and fun pool, spa and premier gyms. Monthly memberships are VND3.5 million.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonatownclub.com 6am to 10pm Up and running since May 1998, Sedona Town Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide private sanctuary from the busy streets. Amongst the attractions are the club’s recreational facilities, which include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi. Members can benefit from the secretarial support service on offer as well as the alfresco dining option offered poolside at the ‘Coco Cabana’. The lush garden adjacent to this outside eatery provides a great option for kicking back with a cocktail. A 3-month membership will set you back VND4 million.

leisure & wellness COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: 3820 9734 www.overlandclub.jp A Japanese home cooking class that meets every Sunday afternoon from 1.305pm. Run by a Japanese pottery artist, Overland Club also organises pottery classes, Vietnamese-Japanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating papers and multinational cuisine days. The club is open to all nationalities and ages.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com Learn how to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local fine dining specialists Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients and the preparation of three tasty local dishes. Some tricks of the trade and the chance to sample the fruits of your labour afterwards also feature. A seasonal desert wraps things up nicely. Courses run from Tuesday to Sunday with two sessions per day from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm.

The class is VND800,000 for adults and VND500,000 for children.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3827 0349 www.vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com Established in 1999, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy. Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa 15 minutes from the city centre, the course caters to all skill levels. An introduction to a traditional Vietnamese kitchen and cooking utensils is an added bonus as well as a trip to a central food market. For VND800,000 per person you can attend their morning course from 9.30am to 1pm or the afternoon course from 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Meals included.

CRICKET SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations – Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka – as well as a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club (UCC). New recruits are welcome. The teams play on weekends at RMIT and have regular practice sessions.

The season starts every October.

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)

Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, An Phu.

Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 Suhard.amit@yahoo.com

DIAMOND HEALTH CLUB

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Mobile: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

DANCING DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung Tel: 3519 4490/4340 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio available online.

LATIN STREET DANCE Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday at Geisha's Coffee and Tea House (2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1).

It's individual dancing (no partnering) and you just need to buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate. Contact fred@ salsaaigon.com.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 www.saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to their studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”. Scheduling information is available online.

SAIGON SWING CATS www.saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday at Caffe Molinari (Petrohouse Tower, 5 Le Duan, Q1).

FITNESS

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA

Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 Samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY 14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 A 750m2 space that offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA and kid’s basic martial art classes as well as private fitness, bodybuilding and cardio conditioning.

Come to get into shape, take out stress or learn a new sport with foreign instructors.

Open to everyone from kids to adults and beginners to professionals.

LA COCHINCHINE Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 1812 www.lacochinchine.net This new colonial–themed gym is a large, open–plan space, situated on the top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, loads of cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms. Also offers classes. Peak membership starts at VND2.2 million per month.

NTFQ2 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq@nutrifort.com Has a strong focus on fitness classes and personal training. Besides an excellent weights and cardio area, the facility runs group classes including power yoga, Pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. The centre also contains a spa and a restaurant serving up calorie– calibrated meals to help members stay in line with individual fitness programmes.

PAUL SIMOS www.paulsimos.com paul@paulsimoshealthcoach.com Tel: 01286 305 982 Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul has studied all major dietary theories and uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them.

Contact Paul for a free health history consultation.

PATRICK NGUYEN Tel: 093 815 6865 www.corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON)

Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise programmes, weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports.

Services include fitness and nutrition assessment.

Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) www.aissportscentre.com With a 25m swimming pool, Astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay in shape. Memberships start at VND10 million per year and are payable in advance or semi–annual installments. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

COUNTRY TEAMS: ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

JOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR

AIS SPORTS CENTRE

Queen Ann Building, 28–30–32 Le Lai, Q1 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring state–of–the– art equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes such as Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance, Body Combat and more.

VCA (VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION)

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found at this leading department store. Off–peak membership from VND1.7 million per month.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE 64A Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Taebo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. Membership to the small professional fitness studio costs VND1.8 million per month, or just VND1.3 million per month for a one–year membership. Drop–in sessions cost VND300,000. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room to help you unwind after a work out.

19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool. Monthly membership costs VND3.2 million.

CYRIL AND YOU-BODY AND MIND CO LTD Tel: 0947 771326 www.cyril-and-you.com Nutritional advice and personalised programmes for body toning. Fitness at the BoatHouse in An Phu at 8.30am on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

Also offers “Cyril & You Urban Fitness”, teaching children’s boxing, and fitness and cardio boxing for girls at Top Floor, 49

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leisure & wellness

leisure & wellness arts trainer with 14 years of fitness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California. Certified by the National Sports Academy Of Medicine and a certified Sivananda yoga instructor trained by Green Path Yoga.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. A good place to take time out at the pool–side bar. Costs VND400,000 a day or VND2.2 million a month.

SAIGON FITNESS CO. New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 www.saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool.

Standard monthly membership starts from VND4.5 million while a day pass goes for VND450,000. Special yearly memberships and family offers available.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR Tel: 01225 811 080 www.sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano is qualified in mat work and Pilates equipment, and offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs and schedule.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 Membership costs VND12 million for six

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months and VND21 million for a year at this small but well–equipped gym.

Equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness – Vietnam’s second largest gym.

Memberships gives free access to regular fitness classes and involves a one-time free entry, plus monthly subscription.

STEPHANE LAPORTE, FITNESS COACH Tel: 0908 897 604 www.personaltrainers.asia Stephane Laporte is a certified personal trainer and sports massage therapist.

Take a free assessment and receive a tailored goal-driven fitness and nutrition programme to get you in the shape you want to achieve. Programmes include pre/post-race preparation and therapy, triathlon coaching, corrective and functional exercises, weight loss/gain, TRX, Kettlebells and Capoeira as well as many other services.

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking The Crescent complex’s lagoon, this multi-purpose and organically designed fitness and wellness centre offers an array of modern facilities. A state-of-the-art gym fitted out with the latest Technogym equipment allows users to track their progress with personalised keys, while other features include group

fitness classes, yoga sessions, a squash court, swimming pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

THE LANDMARK CLUB

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext. 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Call for further information.

astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years.

Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Equipped with technologically advanced equipment, large cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, this gym has spacious changing facilities with sauna and steam rooms, three group class studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, Step Aerobics and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL www.vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia.

Training sessions are held weekly in both Saigon (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT University, Q7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age, preferred sport or ability, all are warmly invited to become an active part of an inclusive Club. Contact Nick on 0937 683 230.

SAIGON RAIDERS jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams in the nearby provinces. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent for weekly training sessions and matches.

Contact Jon Hoff.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social touch rugby is played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT University from 4pm. The Saigon Geckos welcome both men and women of all nationalities to join and enjoy a few beers afterwards. Does regular tours of the region for tournaments, as well as inviting visiting teams for ladies’ touch rugby, contact rugby and men’s over–35 contact rugby. Beginners welcome.

SAIGON SAINTS www.saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

GOLF

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

LADIES’ FIRST GOLF

www.gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes

www.ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers

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leisure & wellness in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7 Tel: 5411 2001 Visitors’ green fees are VND400,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course behind FV hospital. Fees discounted by 40% on Wednesdays. On the driving range, a basket of 50 balls costs VND60,000.

Equipment hire is also available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT 77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756 660 www.songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city. Individual memberships cost VND38 million or VND63 million per year.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB Long Thanh My Village, Q9 Tel: 6280 0101 www.vietnamgolfcc.com Also known as the Thu Duc Golf Course, this facility just off Highway 1 has two courses, one following a more Asian style, and one with distinctly modern touches.

Both 18–hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

LEISURE – GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS www.saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long–established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Also offers walking trails too. Bus leaves from the Caravelle Hotel at 2pm every Sunday.

PUSH CLIMBING 67/1 Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung Tel: 01264 722 134 www.pushclimbing.com Push Climbing is Ho Chi Minh City’s and Vietnam’s first dedicated bouldering climbing gym and pro shop. Located in District 7, the gym is open seven days a week and there are facilities for storing bicycles and gear. Drinks and snacks are also available, as well as a comfy area for people to relax after tackling the various routes.

RAINBOW DIVERS

leisure & wellness SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

LAN ANH INTERNATIONAL TENNIS COURT

www.saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball.

Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club. You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour, and all gear (including a ball boy) is available for rent.

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball@gmail.com A friendly mixed netball league, running on Monday nights, is open to both men and women from the ages of 8 years old and upwards (including an adults competition). If you are interested in playing, whether as a team or an individual, please contact The Shooters by email.

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the squash court. For new players or those without a partner, there is a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets can be rented and balls are provided inclusive. Book in advance. Day rate is VND250,000 for use of all facilities.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to noon. Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James (Tornados HC) on 0938 889 899 or Rina at rinabakher@ yahoo.com.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 3pm to 5pm. For information how to get involved call David Jensen on 0909 458 890 or Tino Tran on 0903 042 014.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 2. Prices start at VND170,000 for a group pass of four, with a two-hour safety course costing VND500,000.

SPORTS CLASSES

Buddha Bar, 7 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0913 408146 www.divevietnam.com Diving courses & trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu. Operates PADI–National Geographic Dive Centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

CAPOEIRA

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 members, including Japanese, American, Canadian and Taiwanese players. Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE www.thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts club, which runs a competitive league for 14 pub–based teams. Check out the website for details on how to get involved and to see the recent 180 scores.

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25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail.com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance. Held near the zoo, lessons begin at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and at the same time on Fridays at DanCenter.

Admission is VND70,000 for one session or VND250,000 for four sessions.

Tel: 7303 1100 www.saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

TENNIS KY HOA II 796 Su Van Hanh, Q10 Tel: 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency. VND220,000 per hour.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDEIS – SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern & southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities. Private lessons are VND250,000 per hour, group classes for 3 or more people are VND160,000 per person.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6678 0914/ 0979 654487 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

YOGA & MEDITATION DR. SHIVA shivaprakashyoga@yahoo.com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City for the last two years in a variety of locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. His yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga. Available to conduct personal, group sessions, health seminars and workshops.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

MY YOGA EXERCISE Tel: 0128 630 5982, www.myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation. Also offers

tropical Hatha yoga. Private sessions and group classes available.

VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

saigongompa@gmail.com www.saigon-gompa.org Meditation group using specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 35149009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon’s luxury state-of-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week at varied times in a specifically designed soft floored studio. A host of certified, experienced international and local practitioners whose styles include Ashtanga, Power Yoga, Hatha and also Pilates classes.

SAIGON YOGA Tel: 090 835 2265 www.saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a registered "Experienced Instructor" through Yoga Alliance. Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats & Trainings.

SHRI YOGA STUDIO 54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 5347 / 0913 764 776 www.shriyogavietnam.com Newly opened yoga studio focusing on Ashtanga Yoga and suitable for all levels; basic, intermediate and advanced. Prenatal and postnatal classes also available. Classes are held in both English and Vietnamese with internationally certified instructors in cooperation with Tirisulayoga Singapore. Scheduled 200-hour teacher training courses (RYT200) are available throughout the year.

STAR FITNESS GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 www.starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym.

Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non– member prices.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 3920 5813 www.soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in high-quality yoga training and yoga retail products, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and other classes with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally produced yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Also offers 30 per cent off yoga class passes and memberships on first day of every month.

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com.vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretarygeneral of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and non-Vietnamese speakers.

VIVACOLOUR 33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2 Lotus Road 28, Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 090 3873 599, vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailored-made relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available. Contact Pascaline for more information.

YOGA ANUPA STUDIO 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.anupa.net/yoga-anupa The Yoga Anupa Studio is a place where students practice yoga in classes limited to four students with highly qualified teachers who can assist students and also adjust classes based on the group's needs.

A busy schedule of Kandalini, Sivananda, Hatha Flow, Yin, Ashtanga and Power as well as many other types of yoga is available throughout the week. Healthy drinks, breakfast and lunches are also organized to take back to work after class.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE Tel: 01266 626467 www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735 833 (Thuy) www.yogaliving.com.vn Conducting over 150 commercial and private classes a month, daily offers are Ashtanga based Hath yoga, Vinyasa yoga and Sivananda and classical yoga classes.

A larger second studio equipped with six classrooms and 14 shower rooms in the centre of the city provides a great space for a yoga workshop, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

YOGA SANTI AN ANT 269/3 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 2110 www.yogasanti.com Operating to create an oasis of peace in Saigon, Yoga Santi strives to provide thoughtful and challenging classes for students of all levels while offering a variety of styles ranging from athletic to gentler classes. All teachers have received international training and are well versed in instructing Hatha yoga, Vinyasa yoga, Yin yoga, Hatha flow and Sivananda yoga.

YMC – YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3929 1707 www.ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes of different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow. VND400,000 for a one-week trial.

WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM 8 Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and an American-educated and licensed doctor of physical therapy speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, sports injury rehabilitation, and manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT Family Medical Practice, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com www.saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with a Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam.

Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Care 1, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com www.saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam.

Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, and special treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular etc), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders. Dr Kim has studied TCM in Korea and China and speaks Korean, Chinese and some English. A Vietnamese translator is also available.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE 273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy – the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system.

English–speaking Dr. Le Hung can address all your needs in these areas.

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY – DAVID TRUONG TAN Tel: 0903 098 124 www.osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

SARAH MARTIN Tel: 0937 442 516 www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial

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leisure & wellness Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu. Home visits available.

THETA HEALING Tel: 0918 591 933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information or to book a session call or email Jodie on jodieastwood@gmail.com.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture - alternative fields of health care that focus on correcting energy misbalance by combining the energy of colour and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for, but not limited to, muscular and joint pain, stress, sleep issues, jetlag, and tailormade programmes for body revitalization, mood boosting, and to stop smoking.

Other areas focus on treating asthma, ear infections, and general light children’s medical issues, as well as cosmetic problems such as skin wrinkling and sun spot removal. Contact Pascaline for more information.

COSMETIC SURGERY CAO THANG AESTHETIC CENTRE 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn A range of eye and aesthetic procedures are available at this modern hospital. With state-of-the-art devices, services include laser vision correction, cataract surgery, hi-myopia treatment, Botox anti-wrinkle treatment, dermal filler (Restylane) treatment, eyelid reshaping, eyelid fat removal and brow lifts.

DR. TU’S COSMETIC & LASER SURGERY CLINIC 290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3836 7685 www.bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound– based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions such as hair transplants, eyebrow lifts, nose, eye and ear shaping.

The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

leisure & wellness FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, carried out with the best equipment by expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5411 3435 www.fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic minutes from downtown. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available by a foreign orthodontist.

HAIRDRESSERS ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal. Shampoo, cut & blow–dry for VND530,000. Mini facials from VND250,000.

ART HAIR 37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp– looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

COLOR HAUS

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems such as sagging, dull skin, unwanted tattoos and acne by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic has the latest therapies including laser hair removal, stem cell therapy, skin rejuvenation by IPL, Botox and filler hydrolifting, anti-aging and hair loss regrowth treatments.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses state-of-the-art equipment, including fractional CO2 laser, Q-Switch Nd:Yag laser, Fraxel laser, and is the only skin clinic in Vietnam offering Digital Dermoscopy for skin cancer evaluation. Other treatments include eczema, acne, psoriasis, laser treatments (wrinkles, melasma, freckles, scars, keloids); Botox, Restylane and Dysport.

DENTAL ACCADENT Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 822 8800 www.accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

SMILE DENTAL 173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open Mon-Sat from 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm, closed on Sundays and public holidays. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Long–established, state–of–the–art clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6777 www.wescoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 www.colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean–based salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you. A wash and cut starts at VND80,000 from a junior stylist. To cover grey hair, price starts at VND250,000 while a full colour and highlights range from VND350,000 to VND550,000. They also have a new nail care service.

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4625 Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated and rebranded her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a designer villa in Thao Dien, Q2.

Open daily from 9am to 8pm, a full new range of services is now on offer, including a dedicated salon for kids: Concept Kids. Only top products such as Alfaparf and Natural Rendez-Vous are used.

Singapore–based outlet provides hair treatments, from a simple wash and blow dry from a student (VND5,000) to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist (VND310,000). All services are monitored by highly qualified instructors. Appointments recommended. Open 9am to 9pm.

LE GRAND SPA & FITNESS Grand Hotel, 8 Dong Khoi, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 08 3827 0309.

Open every day from 10.30am - 7pm.

A hair stylist with 16 years experience including a long stint at Park Hyatt Hotel, Tommy Bui now works as a manager at Le Grand Spa Hotel. His hair salon is modern and relaxed, the staff professional and sociable. All famous cosmetic brands like L'Oreal, TiGi and nail water OPI are being used.

A hair cut including washing and blowdry costs from VND500,000.

THE SALON 21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

VENUS 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 Tel: 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look for a

night out on the town.

YKC HAIR STUDIO 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist Ky The Guy (Cut and Colour Specialist), YKC Hair Studio atteacts a loyal expat clientele thanks to the well trained staff and friendly English-speaking environment.

Top industry products such as Tigi and Goldwell are used. A cut and blow-dry starts at VND550,000. Moroccan Oil treatment is also available.

MEDICAL AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS 273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health–checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

CAO THANG EYE HOSPITAL 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn Cao Thang is a comprehensive eye hospital overseeing 6000 surgeries per year (laser vision correction, cataract surgery and eyelid reshaping). English speaking staff, a member of the World Association of Eye Hospitals (WAEH), and quality assurance by the Joint Commission International (JCI).

CARE 1 Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice,

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP 119 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 SD-11,Panorama Phu My Hung, Tan Phong, Q.7 Tel: 5413 3300 Academy 117 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 3911 0915/3911 0916 www.kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this

s

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

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leisure & wellness Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI) – FOUNDATION ALAIN CARPENTIER 1 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine. A nonprofit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heat Institute to fund children’s operations.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1 Tel: 3823 8888 Well–established and well–regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with doctors (both overseas and Vietnamese) on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable, with a health check–up costing from VND400,000 to VND800,000.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider whose highly–qualified foreign and Vietnamese doctors can handle anything from emergencies to lab tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 Emergency: 5411 3500 www.fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, with maternity care a specialty. Hotline (24– hour) 5411 3500.

FV SAIGON CLINIC 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre conveniently located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

IFC INDIVIDUAL AND FAMILY COUNSELING HCMC A 2.4 Parkview Building, Q7, 28/1A Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 0903 031208 libbyzin@yahoo.com With offices located in district one and Phu My Hung, this nonprofit counselling clinic offers sliding scale fees to all its patients.

For eight years in HCMC, IFC has been the only teaching clinic practicing western psychotherapy with attention to the values of other nationalities and cultures.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI)

assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. The International SOS medical team of expatriate and national doctors and nurses provide general practice consultations for the whole family. Specialist care is available in many fields, including general practice, women’s health, pediatrics, vaccinations, physiotherapy/osteopathy, dental and more. In-house pharmacy has a wide selection of prescription and over the counter medication.

STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordskin.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine.

Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open & doctors on call 24/7.

PHARMACIES INTERNATIONAL SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The in-house pharmacy at this well-respected clinic provides an excellent range of all medications, both over the counter and prescription-only. Pharmacy managed and staffed by English speaking team.

SALONS 3 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 3521 0599 www.famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

JUST MEN 40 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services (starting from VND200,000), offers massages for the tired executive, with a head, shoulder and neck massage costing VND150,000. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE 64A Truong Dinh, Q3; 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1218 www.lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages (from VND550,000), facials (from VND500,000), sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing (around VND210,000). Also offers gentleman’s care.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In the heart of downtown and specialising in all forms of skincare, this is a well– designed and outfitted day spa offering body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments. Nice decor completes the atmosphere.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

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GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 8368 www.glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes (VND400,000) to two-hour hot stone therapy (VND1.2 million), includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care as well as a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 3827 7188 www.indochine-spa.com Nestled in the heart of the city, Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with a range of aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by fully qualified therapists using 100% natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

MEKONG BLISS SPA 112, Pasteur Street, Q1, Tel: 6299 0563 www.mekongblissspa.com 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm) Located in the centre of Saigon, Mekong Bliss Spa is a top place to enjoy authentic Vietnamese spa treatments. As well as offering an impressive plethora of services such as herbal foot scrubs, warm stone therapy and purifying facials, part of the proceeds go towards helping disadvantage youth in the Mekong Delta, meaning you’re making difference while getting pampered. What could be better than that?

FAME NAILS SALON

1 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine. A non– profit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heart Institute to fund children’s operations.

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical

CAT MOC SPA 61-63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 6295 8926 www.catmocspa.com Established in 2010 and aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. Open daily from 9am to 10pm including national holidays.

SPAS AQUA DAY SPA

MIU MIU FOOT & SPA 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6659 3609 www.koneko.asia/miumiu 10am to 11:30pm (Last booking 10:30pm) Located in the city centre, and standing for “Nyanya” (or “cry of the kitten”), Miu Miu is an elegant and serene Japanese spa offering various body, facial and foot massages, as well as several nail treatments including manicures, polish and design, and scrubs. Massages range from 60 minutes to two hours and rates are from VND65,000 to VND530,000. The spa also offers Thann and Harnn, popular beauty products in Thailand.

the professional spa expertise and a truly sensory experience. With an extensive menu, the Spa InterContinental provides the caring touch of the local therapists and the best of active pure ingredients and exotic botanical recipes, bringing to life Asia’s healing traditions.

SPA TROPIC 79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1 Tel: 3910 5575 www.spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Established since 2002, Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Spa Tropic offers a complete range of spa services and an al fresco café with a healthy food and drinks menu crafted by a New York trained organic chef.

THANH SANCTUARY Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated with furnishings brought in from Thailand. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies such as massages and body scrubs.

THE SPA Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0290 www.thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 ext. 2235 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level. Six treatment rooms for women, four treatment rooms for men, one foot massage room and two VIP spa suites (couples’ treatment rooms) are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Treatments start at VND400,000 and packages are available regularly.

THE SPA AT THE DUXTON HOTEL Duxton Hotel, 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxton.com Conveniently located in the very central Duxton Hotel, The Spa offers a full range of services including deluxe manicures and pedicures, aroma body massages, 60–minute foot massages, and the usual sauna and steam bath facilities.

XUAN SPA Q SPA & SALON 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3905 4609 An old world, Indochine-esque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a deep tissue, hot stone or four-hands massage.

Also offers hair styling and facials.

QING SPA 110 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa above the foot massage salon that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service and members get a 20 percent discount off foot & body massage as well as a 10 percent discount on other services.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9901 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Spa InterContinental offers guests

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury downtown spa noted for its tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages (from VND900,000), facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction for over a decade has firmly established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors. Complimentary beverages are offered in addition to a complete range of professional spa services. Family owned since 1996, YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

STYLE

LISTINGS

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 129 CLOTHING STORES 129 LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS 131 SPORTSWEAR 131 TAILORS 131 INTERIORS ART 131 CRAFT 132 FURNITURE & HOMEWARES 132 KITCHEN & BATHROOM 133

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 2K BAG SHOP 362 Huynh Tan Phat, Q7; 193 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc; 55 Pham Van Thuan, Bien Hoa Tel: 097 7872 777 This cute little store has been gaining popularity amongst Vietnamese and foreigners alike. Although dinky from the outside, 2K stocks an impressive, colourful selection of purses, wallets, handbags, manbags, laptop carriers, backpacks and suitcases. If you’re hunting for a good value, last minute purchase, then 2K is well worth the visit. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND1.5 million.

ACCESSORIZE B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9308 9am to 10pm One of the most instantly recognisable international retail brands operating inside Vincom Center, Accessorize pulls in droves of shoppers thanks to stocking an attractive range of globally sourced products, from beachwear and children’s clothing to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses and much more. Prices vary depending on type and design but generally start from around VND200,000.

B.O.M SHOP 2 Thao Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 01283 221705 / 0986 024367 www.bandzofmonkeyz.com B.O.M provides imported, high-quality

ICONS 101 CASUAL WEAR FORMAL WEAR SHOES BAGS JEWELLERY ACCESSORIES SWIMWEAR UNDERWEAR

style from the 15-hole lace-ups from the past.

But then, with Dr Martens its all about the quality of the soles.

visit wordhcmc.com VIVEKKEVIN for our comprehensive GALLERY 35 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 6291 8162 listings www.galleryvivekkevin.com LIGHTING 133 ELECTRONICS CAMAERAS 133 COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES 134 MOBILE PHONES 134 GROCERIES BAKERIES 134 CATERING 135 GROCERIES 135 LIQUOR & WINE 136 helmets from Italy and China, bean bags, authentic sunglasses from France, highquality raincoats for kids and adults, and other accessories.

BIRKENSTOCK B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Stands out from the crowd thanks to its wooden and neon-lit frontage and eyecatching wooden shelves and boxes used to display its Birkenstock brand products.

Selling shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany made with various designs and colours, there are also similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

BLUE DRAGON 1B Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm It’s hard to ignore this store as its frontage is painted in a stark lemon yellow. Well-known for its selection of recycled bags made from plastic feed sacks, coming in all designs and colours, the unique product selection includes colourful quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery, scrap metal animals and other such wares. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

CHARLES & KEITH 18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9306 9am to 10pm This airy, well-displayed and wellorganised Singaporean store has two branches in town. An elegant beige frontage stands out thanks to three large hanging posters. Sells women’s shoes, bags and accessories with a wide range of products from boots, heels and sandals to bags and clutches. Prices are acceptable for an international brand with a pair of thong sandals costing VND775,000 and leather bags starting at VND1.1 million.

There is also a selection of sunglasses from VND1.1 million and belts for VND600,000.

DR. MARTENS 127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3832 3904 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm Dr Martens has come a long way from the punk era of the late 1970s when its boots first gained popularity as a hard-man (or woman) accessory. Indeed, according to a recent consumer survey, eight out of 10 urban Vietnamese teenagers own a pair of sandals from this global shoe brand.

Standing out thanks to its bright yellow signage, the street style and wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots that contrast

9.30am to 8pm Located next to Jaspa’s and run by jewellery and furniture designer Vivek Chaudhary, this retail-cum-gallery space is decked out in white giving it a sleek aura of elegance. Specialises in contemporary and exclusive arty jewellery including rings, bracelets, necklaces and medals all displayed in U-shaped cases. The products are handcrafted and made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials consisting of precious metals, plastic, zinc or fiberglass. There are also exhibitions and gallery talks every month and the gallery stocks the work of guest jewellery artists. Check the website for details.

IPA-NIMA 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 2701 www.ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm Looking for fun, sexy, glamorous accessories? Look no further. Dubbed one of the most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery in Vietnam, Ipa-Nima is the brainchild Hong Kong-born designer Christina Yu. The flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes definitely catch the eye. Also stocks shoes, dresses and hats. Prices range from for bags, VND1.2 million to VND2.1 million for shoes and from VND3 million for dresses.

JEMMA 174 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3926 0270 www.jemma.com.vn 9am to 10pm A branch of the Vietnamese SJC company, the elegance and luxury of this space provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece. A coral necklace costs around VND900,000 while a silver ring with an angel hair stone is stocked at around VND1.5 million. A selection of bags starts from VND1.4 million.

MAI O MAI 67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4007 Mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool and funky jewellery.

There are also selections of ethnic bags, fabulous hand-made silver pieces and lacquer items. All products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000 and intricate designs cost over VND2.1 million.

The staff is friendly and speak English.

SERGIO ROSSI 146AB Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Located opposite Labella, the luxurious design and appearance of this quiet shop actually intimidates passers-by. Features upmarket shoes and bags made from high-quality materials such as crocodile or python skin and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads. Prices vary but a normal pair of shoes starts from VND21 million. Credit cards (of course) are accepted.

SKECHERS 115 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 9582 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm The award-winning SKECHERS is one of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands.

Now the number two footwear brand in the US with new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old, SKECHERS is fast becoming a popular choice with Vietnamese. The display is

impressive with shoes in many designs and colours hanging on the walls. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

TDC SWISS WATCHES 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Tel: 3929 0685 www.tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm The wide signage on the front of the shop name checking a host of famous international timepiece brands means this shop is unmissable. Large and with in-your-face displays, TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. A funky plastic Swatch strap watch costs VND2 million while a classic gilded Longines strap starts at VND11 million. Also stocks high-end brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

TIC TAC WATCHES 72 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 3519 www.tictacwatch.com 9am to 8pm The pleasant and steady sound of a watch stays the same. However, its design has evolved along with mankind. So has the TicTac Company, growing from a family watch specialist store in Ho Chi Minh City in 1978 to an elegant black-andgold designer watch showroom. Stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Baume & Mercier, Maurice Lacroix, Armand Nicolet, Mido, Hirsch and Swiza. Also provides repairs and battery changes.

Time seems to never stop at Tic Tac Watches.

THERESE JEWELRY 9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3827 3756 www.theresejewelry.com 8am to 7.30pm A good place for luxury jewellery, this store is located on a tiny street in between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi.

However, it stands out thanks to its décor and design with a big wooden and glass door. Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, an oval pink stone necklace, a gold plain daisy brooch, all displayed in a U-shaped wooden case.

Prices start at VND10 million for a ring.

Men can also find a selection of cufflinks here.

VESPA SHOP Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Located inside Saigon Square, this store is perfect for anyone looking to indulge in their obsession with classic scooters.

Stocking a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia from Saigon Scooter Centre, the wares include t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and much more. Rental scooters and bikes are also available.

YB DESIGNS 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 0907 168910 www.yimbaderjewelry.com Situated on the same site as Snap Café, YB is a small shop with simple décor, offering all kinds of jewellery including earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings.

Most of the products are handmade and crafted from various gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite.

Prices are affordable, depending on the type of gemstone and design, but usually start from VND50,000. Also offers custom orders.

CLOTHING STORES BUDGET MARATHON 147 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Even though their business card claims Marathon to be a sports fashion store, it’s actually a beachwear shop. With an

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style orange frontage, this outlet quickly grabs the attention of passers by. Displays many products in a simple and accessible style, offering colourful beach pants, t-shirts and flip-flops for men and women, caps, and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices range from VND110,000 to VND190,000 for a t-shirt, and VND140,000 for a pair of flip-flops.

PAPAYA

style women’s clothing. Set in a large, two-floor space, Ninomax stands out thanks to its large white-painted Renaissancestyle columns. Despite its size, a lack of adequate lighting gives the shop a slightly darker feel. Has the same prices as Maxxstyle and also stocks similar products.

MID TO TOP

171 Bui Vien, Q1 www.papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts for both men and women, which are manufactured in Vietnam. Also offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. A part of the profit from each sale is given to two charity organizations, Poussieres de Vie and the Endangered Asian Species Trust. A t-shirt starts at VND189,000, a cap costs VND99,000 and a post card is only VND15,000.

BOSSINI

ORANGE

ER-COUTURE

180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3. Tel: 3820 2620 152 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3836 5028 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults. Despite simple décor, Orange stands out thanks to the array of colourful products hanging on the wall including jeans, t-shirts, bags, sandals and belts. A selection of attractive hats and leather bracelets are also stocked. Prices are affordable with t-shirts selling for VND180,000 while bags go for between VND90,000 and VND600,000.

Shoes start at VND400,000 a pair.

43 Thao Dien, Q1, Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com 9am to 8pm This Scandinavian outlet is situated on the first floor of An Phu market, stocking high-quality designer garments. Carries a full range of products, from floral dresses to tight tanks starting at VND1.8 million, as well as chiffon shorts and high-waist trousers for VND2 million. Shoes, bags, belts, scarves and hats are also carried as well as larger sizes.

MID-RANGE BAM SKATESHOP 174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-cum-skate store has played a large role in the current rise of local, non K-Pop street fashion thanks to its branded mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps, accessories and more. Naturally, there is also a range of skateboards on sale, with the board and wheels costing anywhere between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

GINKGO 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 0905 493148 www.ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run clothing store that also has an outlet in Nha Trang. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. Has a permanent photo gallery upstairs exhibiting the works of Thiery Beyne.

MAXXSTYLE 52 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3. Tel: 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Located next to Zen Plaza, this Vietnamese brand is one of the best-known shops in town for unisex clothing. Contains a wide range of apparel including jeans, tees, shirts, jackets, khaki trousers and much more, all displayed in a huge retail space. Stocks many different designs, fabrics and colours, and prices are good. A pair of men’s jeans starts at VND500,000, and VND450,000 for women, while a female shirt costs about VND300,000 and VND279,000 for a printed male tee.

NINOMAXX 118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3824 9689 www.ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm A brother of Maxxstyle, this brand is well-known locally for both its men’s and

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22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3839 2292 9am to 10pm This Hong Kong-brand retailer sells both male and female casual wear, including jeans, khaki trousers, tees and shirts.

Although carrying various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts, there are not many products. Prices range from VND900,000 for a pair of women’s jeans and VND700,000 for a shirt. Also stocks socks and belts.

D’BLANC 89A Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 5164 www.d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by the modern woman with a youthful attitude, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. A complete lifestyle collection that offers a broad range of stylish looks to take women from day to night and work to the weekend. Accessories are also available. A dress costs from VND1.5 million.

FRENCH CONNECTION L1-08, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7493 www.8lions.com 9am to 10pm Located inconspicuously on a corner of the Vincom Center, customers have trouble finding this generically designed shop. Stocks both casual and formal wear for men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts. Prices here are also surprisingly reasonable. A male tee starts at VND750,000 while a pair of men’s jeans goes for as little as VND1.8 million. There is also a small selection of bags and belts.

GAYA CLOTHING Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 Located on the 2nd floor of the Gaya, all the clothing here is designed and tailoredmade by renowned French-Cambodian designer Romyda Keth and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. There are plenty of colourful and sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops. If it doesn’t quite fit, alterations are available. Prices start at VND2 million for a normal party dress. Also stocks a small selection of men’s shirts.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE 85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3829 4004 8am to 10pm The products of this Australian fashion label are displayed on the basement floor with contemporary ranges of casual and eveningwear fused with Asian designs.

The work of proprieter Hellen Holani, the apparel includes sweet floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags.

Worth a visit with friends so you can also enjoy a cup of coffee at the in-house cafe while waiting to pick up your clothes.

IT'S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSET 89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com 9am to 9pm More than just a typical clothing store, It’s Happened To Be A Closet (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a colourful range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, but doubles up as a Wi-Fi friendly café stocking an impressive array of imported food and beverages, as well as artful jewelry, handicrafts, comestibles, accessories and books. Also offers manicures and pedicures.

LABELLA 85-87 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Located opposite Sergio Rossi, the decorative style and display of this Vietnamese fashion outlet is both impressive and endearing, using strong colours like orange and wood-brown to catch the eye. Products include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. A large selection of bags is displayed on colourful and eyecatching box-shaped shelves. Also offers night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

LEVI’S 47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3240 7460 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3. Tel: 3240 7461 9am to 9.30pm For cosmopolitans who love genuine Levi’s Jeans, there are numerous of the self-branded stores throughout the city.

Invented by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, the brand has become one of the most recognisable and imitated pieces of clothing throughout the world. The stores here offer a wide range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices vary but normally start at VND2 million for a pair of woman’s jeans.

LITI 40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Located near the corner of Pasteur and Ly Tu Trong, Liti harks back to Vietnam’s French colonial era. Stocking simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, other retro ware includes clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple black blouse starts at VND820,000 while an old clock costs upwards of VND3 million.

LOLITA 61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (opening Aug. 15) Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 (opening Sep. 1) Tel: 3925 9993 www.lolita.com.vn Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, offering stylish and comfortable easy-to-wear clothing for work or play

L’USINE First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm A contemporary shopping experience can be enjoyed at this fashion boutique, café and art gallery. A spacious, elegant Indochina-themed image of a 1930’s French garment factory, L’Usine stocks exclusive labels from all over the world, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons tailored to the climate of Ho Chi Minh City. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, home-wares, nick-knacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MAI’S 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 2733 9.30am to 9.30pm Based on the ground floor of the Continental Hotel, Mai’s feels more like an art space than a fashion shop. Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories. Her renowned signature pieces include velvet and cotton ao dai reworked for casual wear, as well as hand embroidered vintage US army and flak jackets. Also stocks a fine selection of artworks. Prices range from VND1 million to VND80 million for clothes, and VND600,000 to VND40 million depending on styles and materials.

MANGO 40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1136 96 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3824 6624 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3914 7464 B1-43 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9300 www.maisonco.com 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand is located in an impressively designed two-storey building with a black-painted neon logo outside.

The entire shop is well displayed with air-conditioning and professional staff, exuding a feeling of class but not luxury.

Provides a full range of clothing including jeans, tees, skirts, trousers, cardigans, leggings and much more. There are also selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million, and a pair of jeans starts at VND1.4 million. Visit the website for more Mango outlets in town.

MR & MRS SMITH 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet, located in the same building as Dogma and Saigon Kitsch, sells a variety of men’s and women’s clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam for export markets in Europe, Japan and the US. All designs are brand new, delivered directly from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices (VND100,000 to VND70,000).

NGAN 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 6290 9391 www.nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Ngan has become a well-known brand due to their distinctive tailor-made clothing and designs. Stocks mainly women’s clothes, however, men are also suitably catered for. The entire shop is designed in a sleek and luxurious black with cozy lighting emanating from a pendant light fixture. Due to the elegant and sophisticated designs and high-quality fabrics, prices are more top-end, with a party dress ranging from VND6 million to VND10 million a piece, and a normal dress starting at VND3 million. There are selections of boots, belts, scarves and jewellery boxes. Also does bespoke orders.

RAZ GARNETT 137 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, a wide range of sneakers and authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops.

Crocs sandals are also displayed in the middle of the store. T-shirts range from VND400,000 to VND900,000, VND400,000 for a bag and VND700,000 for sneakers. Also stocks sunglasses starting at VND400,000.

Has European-sized t-shirts.

SONG 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, Q1. Tel: 3821 5292 76D Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3824 6986 This t-shaped and turquoise-painted store is located on the first floor of Saigon Center, stocking the clothing of French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie. All the

designs have a quaint, slightly Gallic feel and are made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000 and a spandex shirt goes for VND1.5 million. Also stocks shoes, sandals and a small range of accessories.

THUY NGA DESIGN 19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 Tel: 3820 3574 www.thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm With over 15 years in the trade, Thuy Nga is one of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam. This luxurious shop stocks both men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear. A long-sleeved women’s shirt starts from VND1 million while a male striped shirt starts from VND1.3 million. Also stocks jewellery and accessories.

UMBRELLA 35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Impressively designed with exposed brick walls, Umbrella is airy and well displayed with warm lighting exuding a comfortable atmosphere. Sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices are acceptable for tailormade clothing, with a party dress starting from VND2.7 million. A blouse starts from VND990,000 and shoes, bags and belts are available. Also offers a small selection of imported funky jewellery ranging from VND1 million a piece.

TOP-END ANUPA Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7307 Eco Luxe Anupa, 9 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 2394 www.anupa.net Situated in a French villa-style home and converted into an eco-boutique, Villa Anupa houses the complete Anupa Collection as well as the products of Anupa Horvil's handpicked eco designers.

Anupa’s collection features luxury leather accessories including bags for men and women as well as many other pieces from yoga bags to belts. Other designers include Unit T bamboo eyewear, Miguel la Salle and Things of Substance to name but a few. Recently expanding to another location, Anupa has opened an Eco-Luxe boutique which carries a smaller selection of her collection. Both stores are open from 9am until 8pm daily.

CHLOE 155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm Located inside the Rex Hotel, this Parisian fashion house is one of the most popular international brands with local celebrities due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products. Chloe Saigon stocks a range of Chloe products, from low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes to Sakia bags. There is also a selection of glasses in many cool and contemporary styles and designs.

JUST CAVALLI M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9005 9am to 10pm Contemporary decor with large mirrors and leather sofas creates the setting for a range of products catering for both men and women. The apparel of this Italian brand varies in both design and fabric, helping shoppers identify with contrasting international fashion trends. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million. There is also a small selection of bags and scarves.

MARC JACOBS

TRIUMPH

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel next door to Chloe, this urban American brand carries international-standard clothing and a wide range of sophisticated bags placed on wooden shelves, costing from around VND6 million. There is also a glass case in the middle of the store containing other accessories.

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, Triumph’s high-quality products make women look and feel good.

However, because of the form of the bra cup, this brand is considered to be more suitable for European women. The bras are plentiful and come in many different colours, styles and designs, while the pants look more classic and traditional compared to other brands. Prices vary but normally a bra starts at VND600,000 and a pair of knickers goes for VND200,000. Also stocks a small selection of bikinis.

VERSACE M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 9am to 10pm Spacious, well-displayed and stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, Versace is shopping at its most lavish.

The products come in many colours and fabrics, designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers. Prices are expectedly expensive; a well-tailored floral dress will set you back VND40 million. There is also a small selection of shoes and bags.

LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS AQUAMARINE 211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3827 5695 www.xuanthuswimsuit.com 8am to 8.30pm Situated on the corner of Truong Dinh and Ly Tu Trong, Aquamarine is a classy branch of Xuan Thu swimwear. A small shop full of colourful products, a step inside results in a sensory overload. Offering custom orders, the stock here runs the gamut from one-piece bikinis through to twopieces as well as monokinis and various types of beachwear with different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Also stocks a small selection of scarves.

JOCKEY Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm One of the most popular underwear brands in Vietnam, the American selfbranded shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear.

Prices of imported clothing are slightly more expensive compared to domestically manufactured products. A sport tee ranges from VND150,000 to VND180,000, while a pair of long johns starts at VND200,000, with a sports outfit costing VND300,000.

LA HA 139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands in Vietnam, La Ha caters for both men and women. The shop is small and simply decorated but contains a comprehensive range of products with many different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini. Also stocks yoga and gym outfits.

SSUZI 127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm This brand is better known on Facebook than in The Backpackers’ Area. Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and two-piece bikinis starting from VND250,000. The shop has been designed well making it easy to search for the right swimsuit. Also stocks maxim dresses at VND380,000 and beach sandals at VND110,000. A small selection of earrings and sunglasses is available.

Search on Facebook for ssuziswimwear for new designs and promotions.

WACOAL 94 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1. Tel: 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women in Ho Chi Minh City, Wacoal has more than 10 shops around town. However, there is a lack of product variety and the designs are quite classic. Compared to Triumph, prices are quite expensive with a bra ranging from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while pants start at VND250,000 per pair. No swimsuits. Staff are friendly, helpful and enthusiastic.

SPORTSWEAR SPORTS STREET A large amount of fine and affordable sportswear can be found around town, however, there are two main streets stocking sportswear in the centre; Huyen Tran Cong Chua, between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Du in District 1; and Pham Hong Thai, between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Loi. You can find everything for sports on these streets, from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma at ultra affordable prices through to the real thing.

U.BEST HOUSE 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1. Tel: 3920 9187 9am to 11pm With its wooden frontage, this shop feels and looks like an army disposal store, with a comprehensive range of products, including flashlights, binoculars, climbing clothing, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags and even underwear and cycling gear. If you’re after any products related to travelling, then this store is a must.

TAILORS HOANG DUNG 270 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 2240 5990 8am to 8pm Located on the corner of Bui Vien and Cong Quynh, this store offers a wide range of tailor-made clothing with all designs and styles, from vests to ao dais, and skirts and trousers. Customers can either bring their own fabric or ask the tailor to choose for them. A normal pair of shirts can be made in two days. Prices are acceptable, with a vest costing around VND700,000 and VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including the price of the fabrics.

Guarantees that all tailor-made clothing will fit.

MANDARINA 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 5267 9am to 7pm One of the most difficult things for foreigners living in Vietnam is finding the correct shoes size. Mandarina is a good place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes. They can even make shoes in 24 hours for around VND1 million. Simply choose the design and colour and they will take care of the rest. There is also a wide range of ready-to-wear shoes, from

sandals and peep toes to slingbacks and boots. Stocks a small selection of bags, too. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000 depending on style and materials.

T&V TAILOR 39 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 4556 9am to 11pm Run by two Vietnamese sisters, Tricia and Verona, this shop offers tailor-made clothing for both men and women with the latest and trendiest designs and styles. Stocks a wide range of fabrics, which is helpful for those that don’t know where to purchase it separately. Find something on the rack, get measured up then return a day or two later and pick up your custom-made garment. Alterations can be made upon request. An ao dai costs from VND1.6 million and a suit starts at VND4 million including fabric.

INTERIORS ART APRICOT GALLERY 50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art.

Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars. Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

CACTUS GALLERY 17/12 Nguyen Huy Tuong, P6, Binh Thanh.

Tel: 0904959053 www.cactusartgallery.com Located near to the Fine Art University, Cactus Gallery was founded in 2011 by artist Phuong Quoc Tri with a desire to provide the art space to the world in general and Viet Nam in particular, both on a personal level and on a united one. Linking talented artists together for daily art events such as exhibitions, artist talks and art projects the gallery aims to erase the boundaries between Vietnamese and International artists as well as any art lovers, curators, collectors and art dealers. Cactus Gallery primarily focuses on discovering, supporting and developing young talent.

DOGMA 1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propaganda-printed tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

GALLERY 244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also

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offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

order-made-clothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

GALERIE QUYNH

MEKONG CREATIONS

65 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamesethemed stereotypes available elsewhere in town. Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-creations.org A project of the NGO Mekong Plus designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia.

All products are locally produced, including paper mache, ratten, bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. Bamboo vases from VND350,000 and rag ranges from VND400,000.

NHU Y 257 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers. Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

NGUYEN FRERES 2 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house.

Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

PHUONG MAI 213C Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists. Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a fourfloor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1 Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists. Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

TMG 234 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and well-organised space offers a comprehensive range of products.

An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

CRAFT EM EM 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers

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83 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA 209 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above. Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

MEKONG QUILTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3914 2119 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-quilts.org A charity organization helping poor women in rural areas, all products are handmade with a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within 5-6 weeks. Also stocks accessories such as aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

FURNITURE & HOMEWARES AUSTIN HOME 20 Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains.

Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.

A&W FINE FURNITURE Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore.

Also offers to produce customers’ own designs. Their products are stocked at AA Deco with Their products are stocked at Nha Xinh showroom.

BELLAVITA The Crescent Parcel CR1-07/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by well-known brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware. Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery.

There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT 68-70 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks.

Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CALLIGARIS 4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interior-furnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

CHI LAI 53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3 Tel: 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets.

There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

CLIC CLAC SOFA 327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock includes many covers in various colours

and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

DIABOLO 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

ESTHETIC 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods.

Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-to-order furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

FEELING TROPIC 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks.

Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4640/4643 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery.

Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

GAYA

a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights.

The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

LIVING & GIVING 59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors.

Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

THE LOST ART

CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture.

Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more.

Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

NHA XINH 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO

UNITY 12 Dang Tran Con, Q1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection— to give your home a sense of Unity.

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials.

From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs.

Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

152 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3925 3648 www.verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custom-made items.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

VIVACOLOUR

3B Tong Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6657 0788 www.thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and

Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailormade environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand

KITCHEN & BATHROOM It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

LIGHTING CAO DONG Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand.

Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO 51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10, Tel: 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

LIGHT HOUSE 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials. Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE 98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 4634 www.mosaiquedecoration.com 9am to 9pm This eye-popping lime green-painted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories.

Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

VEKTOR LED 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.VektorLED.com Vektor LED provide LED base replacement lights and T8 tubes that are easy to install in current sockets. Using green materials (no mercury or other toxins), these lights provide an energy saving of 50% against normal Fluorescent lights, with 10-15 times the lifespan of normal lights.

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS CAMERA STREET Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH 28 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS Tel: 0903 035 271 www.silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, professional, true HD and extremely small.

The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

LE VU NIKON 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly

1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive postWorld War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally.

You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linen-embroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

HAFELE SHOWROOM 46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features

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in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million.

Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000. Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

MAT RONG VANG

81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0999 www.cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices.

With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of wellknown brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

Fitting & Services Centre, 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.goldendragoneye.com Ctrack GPS vehicle solutions. A world leader in real time monitoring and data collection, Ctrack GPS has operations in 56 countries and have more than 20 years of hands on experiences in solutions related to GPS and management logistics. Juotec T-eye Dashboard Cameras record events outside and inside vehicles with high-res 1.3Mb cameras.

PHAM THE 11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony.

They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES COMPUTER STREETS Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3825 7750 9am to10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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CARTRIDGE WORLD

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER 236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 7300 6666 www.elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million.

Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 3925 8999 www.hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products

by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million.

In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customer-service.

LONG BINH COMPUTER 50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 0699 www.longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple.

Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers. Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU 125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories.

Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM 42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1. Tel: 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD

shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN 428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3818 1188 www.tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

THUAN MY CO. 227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3838 9164 www.thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

MOBILE PHONES GIA KIEN 352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3868 3733 www.giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE 382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3526 5838 www.thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam.

Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG 182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292 www.thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo.

The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and

specifications. The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices. Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A 328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3863 3333 www.vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

GROCERIES BAKERIES CAKEWALK 84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 6295 9087 www.cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS 54 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic– based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS 33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut.

The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com www.harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

SIMRANS

LE REUNION DES MARMITES

SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com www.simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate. No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

Tel: 08 6274 0647 www.lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more.

Visit website for full menu.

SESAME BAKERY 153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 or 0918 445311 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students.

Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOUS LES JOURS 180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices.

Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread.

Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

VOELKER 39 Thao Dien, Q2 www.voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

CATERING AU PARC CATERING Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME 100 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Tel: 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western– fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

QUAN BUI Tel: 01286 252 351 / 3602 2241 (Mr Danh) High quality Vietnamese food at reasonable prices for the home or workplace. Caters for private parties, receptions, office celebrations, and conferences. Choose from an extensive Vietnamese menu (crispy spring rolls, chicken fried rice, sautéed prawns and cashew nuts) or mix and match with Western cuisine (canapés, dips, cocktail sandwiches, fresh tropical fruit). Efficient delivery, all equipment and waiter service provided.

REX HOTEL CATERING 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3829 2185 With the same team that feeds the guests at the Rex Hotel, prospective clients can be sure that the party they plan will be in good hands.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY 41 Vo Truong Toan, D.2, HCMC Tel: 3898 9286 info@saigoncateringco.com www.saigoncateringco.com With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals.

Experienced with every conceivable style, from the smallest dinner party to a standup cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow, marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to

your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

KITCHEN – QUALITY FROZEN READY MEALS

84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128 info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget.

Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

YES! ICE–CREAM HOME DELIVERY SERVICE Tel: 3844 6099 A delivery service offering banana–on a stick, Öla premium ice–cream & frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice–cream. All produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

GROCERIES ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

Tel: 0974 444 001 www.kitchen.net.vn Kitchen provides an alternative to takeaways with home-cooked frozen ready meals in biodegradable packaging.

Beef, pork, chicken and vegetarian meals cost between VND140,000-VND220,000 for 2-3 portions. Order online at www.kitchen. net.vn. Free delivery.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally– sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer. Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer. Open seven days a week.

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

LE COCHON D’OR

AUSSIE–FRUITS

PHUONG HA

45 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Q1 Tel: 6291 8126 www.aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109 www.classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find

32 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

OPERATION: TEA Tel: 01693 583563 www.operationteavietnam.com Offering a line high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and tea ware. Tea tasting events are conducted by an experienced tea infusionist, who is available for private tastings as well.

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA 60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers.

Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

THE OASIS 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 (inside Snap Cafe) Tel: 3744 6432 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2449 The Oasis grocery store and gourmet shop

LA DORÉE 216 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 65 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, La Dorée serves up a variety of colourful and traditional French breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds, including baguettes, fougasse, and dieppois and montagnard sandwiches.

Desserts include passion cheese, tiramisu and chocolate mouse.

NHU LAN 64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

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generation v was established in Hanoi three years ago and offers imported and local delicatessen such as cold cuts and cheeses from around the world, organic vegetables and many other homemade, artisanal readyto-eat food. Specialties include homemade lasagnas, soups, raviolis, pasta and sausages.

VEGGY’S 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET SHOP 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 www.annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between.

Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

ELECTRONICS SUPERMARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day. You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson.

In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices.

Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information.

CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET 590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm GIA THANH 975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE 133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm NGUYEN KIM 63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm THIEN HOA 277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa.vn 8am to 10pm

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BACCHUS CORNER 158D Pasteur, Q1 www.bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC 74E Hai Ba Trung,Q1 Tel: 5404 3575 www.daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE

GENERATION V

LISTINGS BABY EQUIPMEANT 136 CHILDREN'S BOOKS 136 CLASSES & SPORTS 136 CLOTHING 137

BABY EQUIPMENT BABY 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10, Tel: 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

CHILDREN’S SQUARE

LE TONNEAU

1B Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital with reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

15D Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3824 6597 Overlooking the wine store on the first floor is the VIP room upstairs which caters to club members and those who take their wine seriously. Special wine–tasting every Friday. Call Patrick for more details (0903102418).

RED APRON 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

TAPAS WINE CO LTD 2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com An importer of Spanish wines, Tapas delivers directly to your door. A growing list of products includes wines from the northern and central regions of Spain such as Elciego and Rioja Alavesa. Their website features their full portfolio complete with reviews.

THE WAREHOUSE 178 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town.

In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VINE CELLAR – CASA HABANA 41 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2284 www.vine–group.com The wine store represents hundreds of award – winning wines from every part of the globe and stocks an exclusive collection of spirits. Also, Casa Habana – Cigar Shop provides 100% authentic Cuban cigars, and luxury cigar accessories.

VINIFERA 15C7 Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

VINO WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

270 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 2841 Pampers and Huggies nappies, baby bottles, bibs, buggies and other necessities.

ME OI

MOM & BABY 230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3, Tel: 3932 1611 Closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

CHILDREN’S BOOKS FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odd ends.

PHUONG NAM 1st Flr, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

CLASSES & SPORTS ALPHA GALLERY 10 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3822 4946 Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber runs six– week printmaking classes for children and adults, starting from the very beginning and working through to final prints made from copper plates. Other printing methods are also addressed.

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4490/4340 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and more classes of all levels at this modern dance studio.

GUITAR AND PIANO CLASSES Mr Anh Vu Phi, another conservatory graduate now teaching at the International School, offers private tutoring in guitar and piano in Vietnamese and English for VND200,000 per 45–minute session. He has 30 years experience teaching youngsters, and after a stint in Spanish city Seville now offers classes in flamenco, call him at 091 387 7884.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 (gallery and workshop), 88 Ho Tung Mau (FLOW – permanent exhibition) Tel: 0903 955780 hk.painter@gmail.com helenekling@yahoo.com www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings EDUCATION 137 ENTERTAIMENT 139 KIDS' PARTIES 139 MEDICAL 139 to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults.

LIFETIME SPORTS Tel: 0909 269511 mb@michaelbelmes.com www.michaelbelmes.com Group swimming, tennis and golf lessons run by Michael Belmes, the former Head Coach of the Vietnam National Polo Team and the Phillipines Elite Development Group of Swimmers. Prices start from around VND120,000. A Saigon Masters Swim Club is also being formed. Visit the website for more info.

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels for VND150,000 a session.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Steffen Christophe teaches introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard, and voice. With a diploma in guitar and singing from 10 years spent at the Geneva Conservatory, lessons at his home come from 25 years experience playing – one hour private tuition cost VND500,000 for students aged four to 14, and VND550,000 for those over (scb_ music77@hotmail.com).

generation v based activities. Contact Abbie Klein for more info.

that runs on Sundays 2pm–6pm in District 7. Call 0932 153502.

SAIGON SEAL TEAM

STAGEMAGIC

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com www.divevietnam.com Scuba Diving Adventures in a Swimming Pool for 8 + 9 year olds. 15 week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam.

Tel: 0903 145087 www.stagemagic.biz The city’s first stage school, offering youngsters between seven and 19 the opportunity to develop their acting and singing skills. The ultimate aim is to put on public performances at the end of each term. Cost for a 10–week term begins at VND2.1 million.

RMIT VIETNAM

TAE KWON DO

702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn The venue for a large number of sporting activities for children of all ages. Sports include baseball, softball, football (soccer) and more.

SAIGON PONY CLUB 42 Le Van Thinh, Q2 Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn the correct riding technique from the three part–time teachers. Half–hour lessons with the engaging Amaury cost VND200,000.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY Tel: 0862 819790 info@SaigonSportsAcademy.com www.SaigonSportsAcademy.com Saigon Sports Academy offer coaching for children aged 4–16 years and private lessons for children and adults. They currently offer soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming. They have a team of International coaches offering training for beginners all the way up to professional levels. Please check the website for details. Also offers a youth soccer league

BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. One class a week costs VND160,000 per week; two classes a week are VND800,000 and three classes a month are VND1 million. There’s an additional fee for non–members.

Contact Mr. Phuc on 0903 918149.

CLOTHING 123 BABY CLOTHING 226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on good–quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

BELLI BLOSSOM 12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3822 6615 4th Floor, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel:5413 7574 www.belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom is a shop catering to moms and babies stocking imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and more. Available brands include Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends and Gingersnaps.

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 3853 The emphasis here is on attractive and unique designs for the very young, encompassing clothing, pyjamas and bedding. A great place to browse for some memorable items.

THANH THUY WATERCOLOUR WORKSHOPS WITH LINDSAY ERDMAN Tel: 0932 102378 www.lindsayerdman.net Canadian watercolour artist, Lindsay Erdman hosts Saturday afternoon workshops for painters of all levels.

Work with still life, live models and flora while learning or refining a variety of watercolour techniques. Workshops held on a beautiful terrace in district 10.

Week-long workshops are also available.

93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 4893 There are clothes for all ages in here, mostly made of cotton and reasonably– priced, with friendly English–speaking staff on hand to help.

and Trousselier are on display and clothes by international designers such as Sonia Rykiel, Petit Bateau, Baby Dior and Kiwi are also available. As an added touch, the shop has been designed especially for children so that they feel at home.

EDUCATION ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel: 84 8 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com Founded in 1995, this international school of 800+ students drawn from 32 national backgrounds is served by 80+ UK expatriate teachers and 70+ support staff.

It is the only international school in the city whose curriculum is wholly based on UK standards for all pupils from age two yrs (Playgroup) to 18yrs (Pre–University matriculation). Students graduate with IGCSE’s & A levels awarded by Cambridge University examinations board.

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL East-West Highway, An Phu, D2, Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior school and a range of extracurricular activities. The new campus provides exceptional learning and sports facilities. Offers international curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.smallisb.com With the belief that each child is a prince or princess, the store offers an exclusive selection of brand names in clothing, accessories and creative toys. Creative toy brand names such as Playmobil, Vilac

Xi Early Childhood Centre 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. Tel: 3519 2727; Early Childhood & Primary School, Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien,Q2.

Tel: 3744 6960; Middle & Senior School, EastWest Highway, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB 628A An Binh, Q2 Tel: 3898 9788 pcc@parklandvn.com Provides a range of leisure activities including sports and movie nights for children of all ages. Participation requires membership of this well–known country club. Email for more details.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 0122 5636 682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Offers a full range of piano lessons, from basic to advanced ones such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin. Suitable for kids of all ages.

RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years at Somerset, Q1; AIS, Q2: APSC, Q2; Sherwood Residence, Q3 & classes now available in Q7. Run by Elizabeth Hollins.

SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Offering a variety of classes for movement development for ages two to 11 in An Phu and Phu My Hung. Saigon Movement aims to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports–

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generation v A co-educational day school with dedicated early childhood, primary, middle and senior school campuses. An IB World School, students follow the PYP and MYP curriculum. Senior students follow the IGCSE – Cambridge A Levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies GRADE 12 Curriculum (UNSW). Focus on academic excellence, international student body, and exceptional facilities in quiet residential settings, qualified expatriate staff, range of co-curricular sport, creative, academic and musical activities and languages. Scholarships available.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com Three campuses offer a British–style education to moret than 1,500 children aged from two to 18. A centre for the UK Cambridge International Examinations boards, it is also an IB World School, delivering the IB Diploma Programme.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh Tel: 5412 3456 www.cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers co-educational classes from Kindergarten to grade 12 for local and foreign students. Talented, certified teachers implement the awarded Ontario curriculum to create a studentcentered learning environment. Focuses on academic achievement, character education and global thinking with a commitment to the arts and languages (Vietnamese and French). Students graduate with the Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognised by universities worldwide.

COMPASS EDUCATION 15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3820 3302 / 3820 3202 information@compass.edu.vn www.compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education is a English language education

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generation v company that offers a range of courses for teachers, students and managers, corporate and teacher training, nanny and teacher placements and career counseling.

GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7257 A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. A language programme is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3827 7008/3827 7008 info@gymboreeclasses.com.vn www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0 - 5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in over 30 countries, making them a leader in early childhood development programs. Recognized for their approach to parent involvement, their programmes encourage participation in, and understanding of, each child’s development.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com ISHCMC, located in District 2, has been successfully graduating students with an IB Diploma to high-profile overseas colleges and universities since 1999.

ISHCMC is the only fully authorized IB World School in HCMC, providing an International Baccalaureate curriculum (PYP, MYP & IBDP) to all students, ages 2 to 18. It is fully accredited by the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of School and Colleges (NEASC).

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 2222 7799 www.issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American standardbased curriculum taught by certified North American teachers. ISSP started the academic year of 2010-2011 with more than 100 students enrolled from 20 different nationalities. A brand new single purpose-built campus and state-of-art

facility caters for nursery through to grade 5 (sixth grade added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese are welcome. Unique features include Mandarin language classes, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

and state–of–the–art facilities. Students from more than twenty–five nationalities from age two to 18. RISS is an IB World School, a member of CIS and IPC, and an approved centre for IGCSE.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTER Ground Floor, Crescent Residence 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 www.kindermusik.edu.vn Kindermusik is the world’s premier Music, Movement & English language program for children from birth to 7 years. Each unit’s weekly lessons promote early literacy and English language acquisition, social skills and more. The learning fun continues with Kindermusik@Home materials, including music from class, musical activities and story time.

Kindermusik programs align with standards and/or requirements for the USA, UK, EU, TESOL Pre-K and IB Primary Years Program; and have been adopted by the National Teachers College of Ho Chi Minh City. Enrolments include a family activity book or digital magazine, along with high-quality CDs or digital music downloads, containing a variety of musical styles and genres. There are over 6,000 Kindermusik Educators in 67 countries.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn School following the Montessori methodology for children from two to six years old, offering natural learning environments to complement the child’s natural sense of engagement with their surroundings. Also offers extra–curricular activities for children from three to 12.

PERFOMING ARTS ACADEMY OF HCMC

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL COLLEGE (SIC)

21K Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0938 371 760 www.sic.edu.vn An Australian-Vietnamese government project, SIC caters for Years 10, 11 & 12 and is under the Curriculum Council of Western Australia. All subjects taught in English by foreign teachers. Inspectors from Australia control teaching standards.

Students graduate with the internationally recognised Australian Certificate of Education (WACE), which gives direct entry to all Australian universities. Fees up to VND142,702,000 per year.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 104A Tran Quoc Toan, Q3, Tel: 3932 5579 www.saigonkidscentre.com Has evolved over 10 years to create a creative learning environment through play for children between the ages of two and six. There are 12 teachers, and the school limits numbers to 85 to ensure personal attention for all the children.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Tel: 0862819679, info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in piano, guitar, drums, singing, flute, clarinet, and saxophone by real musicians and experienced teachers.

ABRSM Qualified. Group dance and drama sessions also available. Plus new vacancies in our popular Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3–5.

Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high school, emphasising state–of–the–art facilities, a multi–cultural student environment, and a commitment to a well–rounded education at all levels.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Q7, Tel: 3773 3171 admission@rissaigon.edu.vn www.rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides British/International education with native English teachers

International Primary Program, as well as an integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. The school focuses on providing a stimulating learning environment, and a value priced education. A brand new 8,000 sq. meter eco-friendly campus, the largest of any primary school in Ho Chi Minh City, includes a pool, running stream and more.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3519 4236, www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre provides kindergarten and pre–school education for children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3519 2223 Fax: 3519 2224 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn info@tasvietnam.edu.vn A fully-licensed American school programme designed by administrators and educators experienced in the development and operation of American and international schools. An independent and private college preparatory school with an individualized programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a US-based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

THE LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten has joined Sisterhood with school in USA and uses same curriculum. It is the Kindergarten with the best facilities and environment compare to any similar size school in Vietnam

VAS

X–ROCK CLIMBING

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: 3933 3655 www.vas.edu.vn VAS is one of the leading schools for teaching and learning development in Vietnam, providing from programmes from Kindergarten to Secondary school education. In line with their mission to educate an elite young generation with confidence to integrate into the world’s education, VAS also aims to develop its human resources by creating a professional and friendly working environment with attractive benefits for teachers.

503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2, Tel: 3402 2542 www.xrockclimbing.com.

X–Rock Climbing is the city’s first venture of this kind. The facilities for children are excellent (children under 12 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian) at this 26–metre–tall wall, where you (or they) can climb up or abseil down. A day pass costs VND200,000

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS) 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Ben Nghe Ward, Q1 Tel: 3910 0168 / 3910 3266 contact@vlstudies.com R4-28 (Hung Phuoc 2) Le Van Them, Q7 Tel: 3602 6694 info@vlstudies.com, www.vlstudies.com This professional school has built a good reputation over 18 years. VLS offers set and tailor-made courses for all abilities in high quality facilities with time flexibility.

Lessons can be taken either at school or at the learner’s office and home.

ENTERTAINMENT DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3825 7750 Diamond Plaza features a top–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options, with KFC and Pizza Hut.

PARKSON PLAZA 35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3827 7614 Over at Parkson Plaza there is a large selection of arcade games to choose from along with a bowling alley, with a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

KIDS’ PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON Tel: 0909 052502, dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

THE BALLOON MAN 100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn If you don’t know how to cook jelly, never mind, because The Caterers do. Although mainly focused on grown–up events, they will cater for kids’ parties as well.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Three paediatricians make up the

childcare speciality at this well–equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped paediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Operating in Vietnam since 1989, this clinic is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. An internationally experienced general medical and pediatric team will meet the preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs of your child. Emergency cases managed 24 hours a day. House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q.3 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Up–to–date well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care, alignment and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 3910 4545 info@victoriavn.com www.victoriavn.com Victoria Healthcare is especially committed to paediatrics, and its services for children include general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2 Tel: 3742 3222, www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn The school offers a British primary curriculum, supported by the Cambridge

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Hanoi

THE SOMMELIER / THE ART OF NOISE

Q&A

The Sommelier The face and brains behind French restobar Le Paul Conti, from starting as a young trainee at Hoa Sua Training Restaurant, Hai Ha has become one of the first French-trained sommeliers to ply his trade in Vietnam. Interview by Nick Ross

You come from an educated background.

So, why did you decide to become a trainee at Hoa Sua when you left high school rather than going onto university?

In high school, I learned French. I was in a special French class. After high school, my father sent me to Hoa Sua for two reasons; to develop my French language skills because Hoa Sua had a lot of contacts with French people and French culture. Secondly, for me to be more independent. At the time, my mother was furious with my father’s decision.

After my training period, I won a scholarship to study in France. Here I had the chance to do internships in major hotels in Paris. It was there that I first experienced true French cuisine.

After leaving Hoa Sua you spent a number of years living in France studying to become a sommelier and then working in your chosen career. Why France and why a sommelier?

I’ve always liked wine. My father worked in education and he was in charge of taking care of all of the French teachers in Vietnam.

He had a lot of projects with France, so every time he went there on business, he brought us back a lot of wine. However, it was at Hoa Sua that I met Christophe Roublin, a French sommelier who at the time was a volunteer there. It was Christophe who inspired me to want to know more about wine.

When I arrived in France, Christophe advised me that if I want to understand wine, I must first know French cuisine. So I decided to start my studies in a training kitchen. Then I learnt about alcohol and how to serve it through training as a bartender. In the end I became a sommelier.

It's really easy to tell but not easy to do.

Being a sommelier is not only about serving wine. It’s about having the capacity to advise clients about food, about what they should eat when drinking any wine.

It’s also about individual people and their psychology.

Why did you decide to return to Vietnam

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in 2010?

Returning to Vietnam wasn’t a decision. It was something I was always going to do when I left the country eight years earlier.

I wanted to share my passion. I wanted people in Vietnam to be more aware about how to serve, drink and store wine properly, and to associate it with Vietnamese food and culinary traditions, too.

What I do every day is not a job, it is my passion and I enjoy it. I make my dream come true every day; talking about wine and tasting wine. I hope one day Vietnamese people will drink and enjoy wine properly.

How have you seen wine appreciation develop in Vietnam? What are you doing to help wine drinkers?

The wine market is developing strongly in Asia, and Vietnam is part of this.

Unfortunately we don’t have enough professionals working in this field to meet the needs of the wine drinker.

This is natural and is partly an educational issue. There is a lack of official hospitality schools in Vietnam. Also, a lot of wine master classes take place in Vietnam but there are some real difficulties here.

The language is one they are usually in English and there is also the difference between the flavours that each culture has and is used to. When you have a prestigious sommelier from overseas coming to train you in English, it’s tough for the Vietnamese trainees to absorb 100 percent of the knowledge they are being given. Explaining wine flavours like ‘raspberry’ or ‘the smell of a French apricot’ can make the trainees really confused as it’s not something they know naturally.

As a result I’ve set up my own wine appreciation classes. We only use Vietnamese flavours and smells when describing the wine. We also want to organise some classes to teach people how to serve, drink and store the wine properly.

Many have tried to create a modern interpretation of Vietnamese cuisine. How do you see the gastronomy of this country

developing over the next few years?

I love modern cuisine. I love the creative part of cooking good food. And creating a modern interpretation of Vietnamese cuisine is simply part of this country’s development. It’s like in all fields you need to keep developing. Food is the same.

But there are also constraints. If we move too fast, we forget the basics.

Flavours become almost extinct. I think it is now better eating on the streets of Hanoi than in many of the restaurants. It is only here that you can find the real smells, flavours and memories associated with Vietnamese cuisine.

I think that in a few years we will start returning to our roots, but will continue to maintain modern cooking styles. It is natural we look for what we miss.

Your restaurant is called Le Paul Conti.

Why did you choose that name? Do people ever get confused and think you are Paul Conti?

I've answered this question a lot. It is a word game. Paul Conti is the name of my godson. Conti is taken from this famous vineyard of Romanée-Conti, which produces some of the most sought after and expensive wine in the world.

Conti also brings the idea of something ‘continental’ meaning travel and being open minded.

People do not think that my name is Paul Conti because I am Vietnamese. But there are many customers who tell me about Paolo Conte, an Italian singer who wrote a song for a film. The film tells a story about a restaurant. Life is full of coincidences.

What advice would you give to anyone looking to follow a career in this industry?

First it’s not an easy job. It’s physical and psychologically demanding, sharing time with clients, understanding them and trying to meet their needs.

The secret is having passion for the job.

This way it’s possible to follow the career or trade that you love. But it’s not easy.

October 2012 Word | 141

H

ot Rock Bar’s name does not refer to the ‘hot’ that people use when they want something to sound fashionable, as in ‘snakeskin is so hot right now’. Nor does Hot Rock Bar refer to the music played there, as in ‘rock’ music. Instead the bar and restaurant at the intersection of Le Van Luong and Hoang Dao Thuy in Cau Giay takes its name from the traditional steak served on a slab of piping hot stone. That’s the ‘hot rock’ we want.

A minor glitch is that they don’t serve the steaming stone steak here, but their pizza could be its more modern cousin.

It’s a rare find of a cheesy feast that comes still bubbling over flatbread at any hour of the night.

Hot Rock Bar is a bit far away.

Actually, that’s not true. That is just what everyone says when you utter the address of where you’re going while at a party downtown. “That’s at least two hours away.” “Xa qua, nhi.” (Excessively remote, innit?) Yet, when you get into a cab and ask the driver how long will it take, “10 minutes” and a wily smile are the response. And barring any major jams or construction on the air highway the estimate is not too far off.

Still, it is not your easy hop and skip from the Old Quarter — it is a decision that takes you there, and not the result of passive meandering. For this reason, the vibe of Hot Rock is a bit different from those places you accidently wind up on a Saturday night.

Sound for Sore Ears TRENDSPOTTER

THE ART OF

NOISE

Located in a more unlikely area of town, Hot Rock Bar is making a few sound waves right now. And we’re not just talking about their pizza. Words by Kaitlin Rees. Photos by Francis Roux

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So what does this new place out in western Hanoi have, besides being new? One reason is the well thought out sound system. Good speakers and their purposeful placement throughout the entire bar is a little like their aforementioned pizza, a rare occurrence in Hanoi.

With a DJ booth in the centre, flanked by a bar area to the left and a pool table lounge to the right, music is set up to be your first encounter upon entering.

And it’s the music of Hot Rock that seems to be its distinguishing factor.

Sub Elements, the bass heavy Hanoi DJ collective, is currently setting up shop there every Saturday night. The select group of spinners who play a healthy range of low notes, from drum and bass to minimalist funk, are a few months into their long-term residency, using the venue’s equipment to deliver their sound.

As one DJ puts it, “here, they have money to invest in good [speakers, sub woofers and a monitor] and the sound engineers know how to set it all up”.

That wasn’t always the case, though.

A few months ago, bar manager James Kendall explains that the sound was

scattered and inconsistent. Thus an upgrade was in order: a stereo system that keeps the sound uniform in every corner of the bar, enabling it to be heard without turning it to maximum volume.

“We wanted a cleaner, crisper sound, and not something that was going to blow your ears out. In some places it’s like instant damage. You walk away with ringing in your ears from loud music that wasn’t even really that good.”

Drawing in the Crowds In addition to the Sub Element Saturdays, the bar also hosts mid-week parties, live music events, and openmic nights. “I’m excited about bringing different types of music here that you don’t get everywhere else,” James says.

The acts that come to Hot Rock vary from blues and acoustic music to salsa dancing, beat boxing and didgeridoo.”

As for the distance issue, James is hoping to set up a free shuttle bus circuit that will have weekend pick-ups from Hoan Kiem at the top of every hour and with a free beer for the ride. Considering the closing time of many city bars, this could be a great way of getting a late night crowd, as the bar stays open until 2.30 am or whenever people leave.

That Hot Rock Bar is picking up steam reveals a significant step in Hanoi’s maturing music scene. If you were desperate to hear music, any kind of music at all, then the quality of the sound wouldn’t be of importance to you.

Hot Rock, however, is one example of a venue rising to meet Hanoi’s growing musical needs. As one patron puts it, “It’s like caring about the frames for a piece of art. You don’t know to care about it until you realize what a difference it makes in the art.”

“Here, they have money to invest in good [speakers, sub woofers and a monitor] and the sound engineers know how to set it all up”

October 2012 Word | 143

Tiêng viêt TRÒ CHUYỆN VỚI THÚ CƯNG / THỰC KHÁCH BÍ ẨN

Trò Chuyện Với Cún Cưng Không ngừng ở vị trí là khách sạn giành cho thú nuôi đầu tiên của Sài Gòn, Stephanie Chew còn muốn trở thành người trò chuyện với cún cưng. Viết bởi Derek Milroy. Hình ảnh bởi Francis Xavier

S

tephanie Chew, 30 tuöíi, lúán lïn úã Malaysia vaâ laâ möåt àûáa treã chûáng kiïën cha mònh àûa têët caã loaåi àöång vêåt bõ boã rúi úã ngoaâi àûúâng vïì nhaâ. Cö nhúá laåi cha mònh àaä yïu viïåc chuáng úã quanh nhû thïë naâo, bêët cûá giöëng loaåi naâo tûâ choá phöëc soác, choá àöëm, chuöåt lang, ruâa, chuöåt hamster vaâ thoã àïën caá cheáp.

Cö nhêån mònh laâ ngûúâi dïî muãi loâng àöëi vúái nhûäng chuá choá bõ laåc: “Thuá nuöi vaâ àùåc biïåt laâ choá luön laâ möåt phêìn cuãa cuöåc söëng töi. Thónh thoaãng coá möåt vaâi con choá lang thang quanh khu vûåc nhaâ töi vaâ cha töi luön cûáu, àûa chuáng vïì nhaâ chùm soác. Chuáng töi àaä luön hy voång möåt ngaây naâo àoá nhûäng ngûúâi chuã cuãa chuáng seä xuêët hiïån vaâ àem chuáng vïì, nhûng hêìu hïët laâ chuáng seä úã vúái chuáng töi vaâ chuáng töi coi chuáng nhû thuá nuöi cuãa mònh.”

Ngöi nhaâ cuãa hoå àaä trúã thaânh möåt khu baão töìn àöång vêåt khöng chñnh thûác vaâ naãy sinh niïìm àam mï cuãa cö cho têët caã caác loaåi sinh vêåt. Vaâ kïí tûâ lêìn chuyïín nhaâ àïën Viïåt Nam gêìn àêy, cö coá yá tûúãng múã möåt khaách saån cho thuá nuöi. Nhûng khöng phaãi àïí kinh doanh. Thay vaâo àoá, nhû laâ möåt núi àïí huêën luyïån choá "möåt caách àuáng àùæn" vaâ hy voång coá möåt chuát kinh nghiïåm thaânh cöng cuãa thêìn tûúång mònh, Cesar Millan, ngûúâi maâ cö ngûúäng möå vaâ tön suâng.

“Töi àaä xem têët caã caác hûúáng dêîn vaâ lúâi khuyïn (chûúng trònh) cuãa Cesar Millan vaâ töi cöë gùæng àem chuáng ra thûåc haânh vaâ kïët húåp phûúng phaáp huêën luyïån cuãa öng vúái cuãa töi,” cö cho hay.

“Lêìn àêìu tiïn töi àaä thûã vúái con choá cuãa meå töi úã quï nhaâ, noá hung haän vúái moåi ngûúâi vaâ moåi thûá trûâ gia àònh töi. Töi vui loâng maâ noái töi àaä daåy döî noá laâm noá búát hung haän vaâ dïî baão. Vò vêåy àêy laâ möåt caái gò àoá maâ töi muöën

144 | Word October 2012

laâm vúái choá cûng úã Saâi Goân.”

Stephanie tin rùçng möîi quöëc gia àïìu cêìn möåt khaách saån thuá nuöi vaâ hy voång phaát triïín thïm chi nhaánh möåt khi cú súã úã Saâi Goân àaä vûäng vaâng. Àoá laâ àiïìu cö muöën laâm àïën hïët àúâi mònh. Cö nhùn mùåt möîi khi thêëy möåt con choá lang thang hay nghe nhûäng cêu chuyïån kinh khuãng vïì caách ngûúâi ta àöëi xûã taân baåo vúái choá.

Cö cuäng àang cöë gùæng khúãi àöång chiïën dõch nhêån nuöi úã Saâi Goân vaâ nêng cao yá thûác vïì viïåc triïåt saãn thuá nuöi. Giúâ àêy, cö àang laâm nhiïåm vuå giaãm söë lûúång thuá nuöi ài laåc lang thang ngoaâi àûúâng.

Lý Do Dành Cho Các Chú Cún Stephanie, söëng taåi Quêån 2, àaä mêët ài rêët nhiïìu thuá nuöi do bïånh têåt vaâ tai naån, nhûng àiïìu àoá khöng bao giúâ laâm cö naãn loâng trong viïåc tiïëp tuåc súã hûäu thuá nuöi. Khi lêìn àêìu tiïn àïën Viïåt Nam, cö àaä traãi qua möåt thaãm kõch khuãng khiïëp.

"Vaâi ngaây sau khi chuáng töi àïën, töi biïët chuáng töi seä úã àêy lêu. Vò vêåy, baån töi àaä àûa töi àïën möåt cûãa haâng thuá nuöi vaâ töi àaä yïu ngay tûâ caái nhòn àêìu tiïn vúái möåt con choá spaniel con löng vaâng. Chuáng töi mua noá vaâ àûa vïì nhaâ nhûng àaáng buöìn laâ chuáng töi àaä mêët noá do vi-ruát vaâ höåi chûáng ho kennel. Sau àoá chuáng töi coá möåt con choá con múái vaâ àùåt tïn laâ Brandy. Noá laâ choá lai vaâ bêy giúâ noá àaä àûúåc saáu thaáng tuöíi."

Nhûäng khoá khùn vaâ nhûäng chuyïën ài àïën baác sô thuá y laâm cho hoå nhêån ra rùçng ngaânh cöng nghiïåp dõch vuå thuá nuöi úã àêy vêîn coân trong giai àoaån phöi trûáng. Viïåt Nam thiïëu nhûäng núi maâ ngûúâi chuã coá thïí tin tûúãng thuá nuöi cuãa hoå àûúåc chùm soác àuáng caách. Cö hy voång seä caãi thiïån àûúåc tònh hònh.

"Khi baån àïën nhaâ töi, baån khöng nhòn thêëy möåt khaách saån, baån seä thêëy möåt ngöi nhaâ, núi maâ caác con vêåt nuöi coá thïí söëng thoaãi maái vaâ coá àêìy àuã caác nhu cêìu", cö noái. "Àiïìu naây khöng phaãi laâ quan troång hún laâ àïí con choá cuãa baån úã trong möåt cùn phoâng phuâ phiïëm hay möåt caái chuöìng?Töi nghô nhû vêåy. Töi tûâ chöëi sûã duång löìng àïí tröng nom thuá nuöi vaâo ban ngaây vaâ töi chó àûa chuáng vaâo phoâng vaâo ban àïm. " Stephanie hiïån àang cung cêëp dõch vuå nöåi truá cho thuá nuöi, caác ngûúâi chuã giúâ àêy coá thïí àûúåc thoaãi maái. Cho duâ hoå ài daâi hoùåc ngùæn ngaây, nghó lïî hay cöng taác, hoå seä biïët rùçng thuá nuöi cuãa hoå seä khöng bõ nhöët vaâ cuäng seä àûúåc chùm soác àuáng caách.

Cö coá möåt böìn tùæm lúán cho pheáp nhûäng chuá choá àûúåc búi löåi vaâo nhûäng ngaây nùæng noáng vò cö tin rùçng àoá cuäng laâ möåt hònh thûác têåp thïí duåc, vaâ viïåc baån daânh nhiïìu thúâi gian hún cho thuá cûng laâ quan troång. Caác dõch vuå khaác bao göìm nhûäng viïåc chaãi chuöët cú baãn cho choá meâo nhû cùæt moáng tay, möåt viïåc vùåt aác möång vaâ cö êëy coá caác vïët trêìy xûúác àïí chûáng minh àiïìu àoá.

Cö coá thïí chùm soác mûúâi con vêåt nuöi thêåt thoaãi maái úã “khaách saån” cuãa cö.

"Töi nghô àêy laâ möåt yá tûúãng tuyïåt vúâi, töi yïu thuá nuöi. Töi yïu chùm soác chuáng vò tònh yïu vö àiïìu kiïån chuáng traã laåi laâ phêìn thûúãng maâ khöng coá tûâ naâo àïí mö taã", Stephanie cûúâi.

"Töi biïët coá rêët nhiïìu ngûúâi nûúác ngoaâi úã àêy maâ cuäng ài du lõch. Töi hy voång töi coá thïí giuáp àúä hoå. " Nïëu baån muöën Stephanie Chew giuáp àúä chùm soác thuá cûng cuãa mònh, haäy liïn hïå vúái cö taåi nampetboarding@gmail.com hoùåc goåi 01203 749.890.

Tamago

GIÁ

39 TỐNG HỮU ĐỊNH, Q2. ĐT: 3744 4634

"I THUC KHÁCH BÍ ÂN

Nhà phê bình của chúng tôi đã tìm hiểu xem liệu sushi ở nhà hàng Tamago có xứng đáng để đi thật xa tới An Phú thưởng thức

146 | Word October 2012

rasshaimase!" (Kñnh chaâo quyá khaách!).

Truyïìn thöëng hö to chaâo àoán cuãa nhaâ haâng keáo chuáng töi ra khoãi Viïåt Nam vaâ ài vaâo Nhêåt Baãn, hay ñt nhêët, noá laâ möåt trong nhûäng nghi thûác nhoã úã Tamago, möåt núi nhoã nhùæn neáp mònh vaâo thïë giúái khaác cuãa khu ngoaåi ö Quêån 2.

Cuâng vúái sûå chaâo mûâng àoá, chuáng töi chiïm nghiïîm nhûäng aánh àeân cöí tñch lêëp laánh, möåt bûác tûúâng cong sún maâu xanh àêåm cuãa tre vaâ hònh aãnh cuãa ngoån Phuá Syä àûúåc veä chó ngay löëi ài vaâo. Tre àûúåc chïë taác àïí che chùæn bûác vaách mica phña trïn nhùçm giûä khoái thaãi vaâ cuäng nhùçm taåo riïng ra khu vûåc ùn uöëng gêìn guäi nhûng röång raäi bïn ngoaâi maâ khu vûåc ngoaåi ö naây nöíi tiïëng.

Phaãi thûâa nhêån rùçng töi bõ löi keáo ra khoãi khu vûåc ùn uöëng Nhêåt Baãn quen thuöåc trïn àûúâng Lï Thaánh Tön àïí àïën àêy. Giöëng nhû nhûäng núi khaác, nhaâ haâng Tamago hûúáng àïën tiïu chñ thên thiïån gia àònh, vò vêåy nhaâ cöí tñch vaâ àöì chúi treã em chêët àöëng úã möåt goác. Voâm cêy bïn trïn cuäng thêåt laâ

tiïån duång cho khoaãng thúâi gian naây maâ thúâi tiïët mûa nhiïìu nhêët cuãa nùm.

Không Cần Thực Đơn Vúái möåt ly bia tûúi giaá thêåt sûå phaãi chùng trïn tay, chuáng töi xem thûåc àún maâ khöng giöëng vúái hêìu hïët caác nhaâ haâng Nhêåt Baãn khaác trong thaânh phöë, nhûng do thêëy chuáng töi lûúäng lûå, möåt cö phuåc vuå nhiïåt tònh/chõ em gaái cuãa chuã nhaâ haâng, àaä khuyïn chuáng töi nïn ài theo sûå lûåa choån cuãa cö, moán caá ngûâ coân goåi laâ maguro sarada cuäng nhû moán töm ebi gyoza àûúåc choån àïí bùæt àêìu. Hai moán khai võ cuãa àoá àaä khöng gêy thêët voång.

Salad caá ngûâ laâ möåt sûå kïët húåp tuyïåt vúâi cuãa sashimi tröån vúái trûáng caá nhoã vaâ nûúác tûúng cay. Pha tröån vúái nhau vaâ ùn vúái trûáng caá muöëi xanh, nöíi bêåt trong miïång cuãa baån, noá giaânh àiïím àûúåc tûâ chuáng töi do àöå mõn mûúåt vaâ may mùæn thay hûúng võ tûúi ngon cuãa caá khöng bõ mêët ài. Moán ebi gyoza khöng êën tûúång lùæm vaâ mùåc duâ töm coá võ riïng, nhûng caác thaânh phêìn böí sung

khaác khaá khö vaâ húi àùæng. Mùåc duâ vêåy, nûúác chêëm tuyïåt vúâi ñt oãi vaâ baánh bao àûúåc nûúáng gioân bïn ngoaâi cuâng rêët nhiïìu haåt meâ àaä giuáp ñch rêët nhiïìu.

Böëi röëi vúái nhiïìu sûå lûåa choån, nhûng möåt lêìn nûäa cö phuåc vuå laåi túái giaãi cûáu, àïì xuêët möåt söë moán vaâ cuäng cho chuáng töi biïët laâ caá hay töm cua naâo hoå coá vaâo ngaây àoá, laâm chuáng töi thêët voång goåi laåi moán khaác. Chuáng töi choån sushi soâ àoã nagiri hokigai, noá coá caái tïn naây phêìn lúán laâ do caái veã tröng giöëng keåo cuãa noá, moán tempura tonkatsu - cöët lïët heo chiïn, vaâ höîn húåp thõt boâ, thõt lúån vaâ thõt gaâ xiïn kushi yaki.

Một Chút Nước Chấm Baån phaãi laâ möåt nhaâ aão thuêåt múái coá thïí laâm moán cöët lïët heo chiïn ngon gioân hún nhû thïë, nhûng àiïím maâ Tamago ghi àûúåc trong têët caã caác moán maâ chuáng töi àaä thûúãng thûác töëi àoá laåi laâ nûúác chêëm. Nûúác chêëm ài keâm theo coá nhiïìu thaânh phêìn hún töi hay cö phuåc vuå coá thïí miïu taã, nhûng noá thêåt xuêët sùæc vaâ xûáng àaáng cho baån laâm saåch moán thõt heo. Nhiïìu dêìu nhûng

nheå nhaâng, nûúác chêëm coá thïí vaâ nïn àûúåc duâng cho têët caã moåi moán, hûúng thúm cuãa noá cuâng möåt luác kñch thñch khûáu giaác thöng qua caác gia võ thúm nöìng nùçm bïn dûúái.

Mêëy xiïn thõt nûúáng BBQ giaânh àûúåc àaánh giaá khaác nhau. Möåt mùåt chuáng àaáp ûáng àûúåc àöå chaáy raám do nûúáng than, nhûng mùåt khaác baãn thên thõt khöng phaãi laâ ngon nhêët vïì mùåt kïët cêëu vaâ chuáng chûáa nhiïìu múä hún chuáng töi mong muöën. Thõt boâ mïìm vaâ coá võ nhû chó coá thïí laâ do nûúáng BBQ. Nûúác chêëm, möåt loaåi khaác luác naây, loaåi nûúác chêëm tare cú baãn, laâ möåt caách hay àïí hoâa húåp võ caác loaåi thõt vúái nhau, nïëu trong thõt coá àêìy àuã hûúng võ cêìn thiïët, noá coá thïí laâm moán naây töët hún rêët nhiïìu.

Tamago coá thïí khöng àaánh baåi àûúåc caác àöëi thuã khaác úã Quêån 1 vïì giaá caã, nhûng bêìu khöng khñ, khöng gian vaâ caác dõch vuå caá nhên thên thiïån úã àoá, trong têm trñ cuãa töi, chuáng vûúåt xa nhiïìu nhaâ haâng trong söë àoá.

Mùåc duâ hoå coá dõch vuå mang vïì, maâ khöng möåt ngûúâi An Phuá naâo àïën mua dûúái 500,000 àöìng. Noá coá veã rêët giöëng möåt núi daânh cho buöíi töëi thên mêåt gia àònh, àiïìu àoá coá nghôa laâ noá phuâ húåp cho baån vaâ luä treã,

hay baån vaâ 10 ngûúâi baån thên nhêët. Trïn hïët laâ bia reã, àiïìu naây chùæn chùæn coá lúåi. Àiïìu duy nhêët chùæn löëi cuãa baån laâ laâm sao huy àöång möåt àöåi quên ùn uöëng vaâ röìi àûa hoå qua söng, nhûng röìi sau àoá baån seä ngaåc nhiïn vò söë lûúång ngûúâi lïn xe taxi ài ùn khi coá nhu cêìu.

Itadakimas! (Chuác ngon miïång!)

TÔM EBI GYOUZA VND89,000 CÁ NGỪ MAGURA SARADA VND119,000 HỖN HỢP THỊT NƯỚNG KUSHIY YAKI VND129,000 SUSHI HOKIGAI VND89,000 CỐT LẾT HEO TONKATSU VND109,000 BIA TƯƠI VND39,000

MỖI THANG ĐIỂM CHO THỨC ĂN, TRANG TRÍ VÀ PHỤC VU DỰA THEO THANG ĐIỂM TỪ 0 ĐẾN 15

NHÂN XÉT

13 – 15 = đặc biệt đến hoàn hảo 10 – 12.5 = rất tốt đến tuyệt 8 – 9.5 = tốt đến rất tốt 5 – 7.5 = khá tới tốt 0 – 4.5 = kém tới khá

THỨC ĂN

BÀI VIẾT NÀY CÓ MỤC ĐÍCH ĐÓNG GÓP XÂY DỰNG TÍCH CỰC

12 15 13

PHỤC VỤ

NỘI THẤT

The Final Say DEAD HEAT / ON THE STOOL

The Great Debate A Vietnamese environmental studies student believes that animal species going extinct is part of the theory behind Darwin’s ‘survival of the fittest’, while an Australian wildlife conservationist disagrees. He blames extinction on manmade greed. Follow their heated debate THE ARGUMENT For a few decades there’s been a permeating sense that with ‘x’ number of species approaching extinction and ‘y’ number of species already extinct, it is the moral responsibility of humans to ‘make amends’ or prevent what may well be the ‘inevitable’. With such unique biodiversity, when it comes to conservation and saving anything that may go extinct, Vietnam comes under the spotlight.

A friend of mine recently sent me an article claiming that there are only approximately 30 tigers left in Vietnam.

Surely, the extinction of the Asian tiger would be a tremendous loss for the ecosystem and the spirit of Vietnamese people both here and overseas. I can practically feel their palpable distress and the permeating, crying tears that some say gives Vietnam its humid weather.

I’m sure Charlie Sheen, son of Apocalypse Now lead Martin, would worry about the loss of all that ‘tiger blood’, something which he claims to flow through his veins. Poachers and their customers will be mourning too, but over the impending depletion of money and ‘medicine’.

‘Natural selection’, or another misleading term, ‘survival of the fittest’, coined by Herbert Spencer, was Charles Darwin’s theory that describes the

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process in nature in which organisms inherit favourable traits that make them survive better in the wild.

In other words, if an ‘x’ animal has a ‘y’ trait that helps it get more food, it will be able to produce more offspring and therefore there will be a bigger population of that animal. Natural selection is a crucial concept in evolution, and humans are products of evolution. While we are certainly at fault, we are not the only reason why tigers are approaching extinction.

According to Darwin’s theory, if the tigers inherited favourable traits that help them survive in an environment where poachers and natural disasters are their threats, then they would not be in the position they are now. The tigers are endangered because they cannot adapt to their changing environment, or in terms of natural selection, they fail to inherit the traits that keep them alive longer.

However, there is another puzzling question that needs to be answered in order to definitively justify whether poachers should or should not be slaughtering tigers. Do humans exist as predators of tigers or as a coexisting species?

One can make an argument that humans have the right traits to survive and outlive tigers, but what if we exist to prevent tigers from approaching extinction? We have the skills to do both,

and we do the latter to ourselves all the time when we go to the doctors.

The moral decision would be to protect tigers, but is that up to us to decide?

Should we be the ones responsible for the lives of endangered species?

I say, do it the laissez-faire way, and let nature handle the bulk of it. We are part of nature, which means that all poachers and animal lovers are, too. Let them hash it out to see if the tigers will end up extinct or endangered. There is nothing wrong with trying to save tigers, but not trying to save them or even kill them is not egregiously inappropriate either. It’s always good to maintain biodiversity, but trying to preserve species that will be extinct is defying nature, or God [doesn’t] forbid, Darwin himself.

The reason why this argument is controversial is humans. I believe they are the first species to be able to defy it. We are intelligent enough to create medicine and perform surgeries to prolong our otherwise short lives. Now that humans exist, the concept of ‘nature’ falls into an increasingly grey area. For us, living ‘naturally’ in the way that other species have lived and are living would be avoiding the doctors and medicines that treat innate or developed diseases. But since we never do this, we are defying nature.

We may be responsible for the deaths of many endangered animals, but no one

should be criticising us because living as we do is our way of surviving, of dealing with the pressures imposed on us by nature. We are at once poachers and animal lovers. We are also a nonchalant species who in so many ways are superior to other life forms on this planet. That is why there are so many of us!

— Thao Bach is a native Vietnamese, recent high school graduate in Massachusetts and will be entering college this year, double majoring in philosophy and environmental studies.

THE REBUTTAL Dinosaurs became extinct due to a natural phenomenon, not due to human arrogance thinking that every living creature is for our taking; that creatures should either evolve quicker to due human pressure or become extinct.

Humans are THE most evolved and complex species on earth in terms of thinking, problem solving and social structure, and with these increased skill sets comes responsibility, sometimes at very high costs.

Anybody with half a brain should understand that all living creatures play a vital role in maintaining a healthy working ecosystem. Removing an apex predator will have detrimental consequences for humans in terms of increased disease transmission, let alone a profound lingering sadness over the loss of the world’s most charismatic visually

stunning creatures.

There are still many people living around the world who live in harmony or in co-existence with the world’s wildlife (some of which sees us a potential food source). It is down to pure arrogance and some nations’ drive for ‘exotic’ meats and the illegal wildlife trade that Vietnam’s wildlife is under serious threat.

Evolution of the world’s species (both flora and fauna) is a process that takes thousands of years under somewhat controlled conditions (a slight change in air temperature for instance). People heading to South Africa with AK47s and shooting dead up to two rhinos a day for pure greed because some people believe that rhino horn can cure cancer or cures alcoholic hangovers is pure stupidity.

This is not natural evolution or an “unfavourable trait”.

Greed was once again highlighted in May 2010, when poachers shot dead Vietnam’s last remaining Javan Rhino in Cat Tien National Park for its precious horn.

Now that it is not to say, that due to such a small sub-population of the above species, it would have become extinct in the future anyway, but surely that decision was not ours, it certainly shouldn’t have been left to some greedy poacher.

Many of the world’s medicines have come directly from our forests and ecosystems, having their raw chemical

elements altered to help treat diseases.

We must also accept that traditional medicines play a vital role to many people worldwide and have been used over thousands of years to heal aliments.

But thinking that a dried tiger penis can help a man’s libido is simply quite mystifying if not downright strange.

Personally I have no problem with forest-living communities living off the land as such. Namibian bushmen and women, the Aboriginals and so on have a connection to their land that only they understand. They respect the living animals they share their lives with and hunt only when needed, to feed their families and themselves. From what I have learnt since being in Vietnam, this precious and valued trait was lost a long time ago and now it is simply for greed.

Vietnam has already lost its rhinos.

Its wild elephant populations, and the Tonkin snub-nosed monkey (one of the rarest creatures on earth) are on the brink of collapsing and Vietnam’s large cats are rarely seen. What will traders and poachers do when there is no more wildlife left in Vietnam? Maybe become conservationists? That'll be the day.

—Simon Faithfull is an Enlgish wildlife conservationist who currently lives in Ho Chi Minh City managing an animal rescue centre in Cu Chi. Whose side are you on? Let us know at christine@wordhcmc.com

Crime Fiction Serial

Dead Heat Russell Kemp, an ex-captain in the South African police service and now a private detective, has reluctantly come to Vietnam. He has teamed up with an ex-detective from the Ho Chi Minh City police force named Tran Hai Duong in order to investigate the murder of Nguyen Hai Hien. But now another young woman’s body has been found on the banks of the Saigon River…

Part 4: Gerard District 2 A fisherman discovered the woman’s body early in the morning and immediately contacted the police. An hour later the site had been roped off and curtains placed around the body.

Not long afterwards the players in this simple police drama stepped out onto the stage. A police photographer came first, then a doctor, who made a cursory examination of the body and pronounced

150 | Word October 2012

the victim officially dead, then finally the master of ceremonies himself: Captain Le from the Dakao Ward police station.

Russell Kemp and Tran Hai Duong arrived an hour later.

Side by side, Duong and Kemp gazed down to the water’s edge where, beneath the plastic tenting, a square of rubber sheeting covered the body. Captain Le was standing further along the bank with a group of police officers, writing on a clipboard.

Kemp began by studying the

surroundings, attempting to reconstruct the crime. From across the river came the buzz of Ho Chi Minh City and an endless roar of passing traffic, but this side of the water where the land was open and crisscrossed by waterways there was peace and quiet, which made it a perfect place to dump a body.

Eventually, Captain Le came over to the two men and spoke to Duong.

“He say you look body,” Duong said.

“Cám òn,” Kemp said — ‘Thank you’ was the only Vietnamese he had managed

to learn — then moved off along the riverbank. Eventually he returned to the spot directly above the body where Duong was squatting on his haunches puffing on a cigarette.

Kemp looked around, found a suitable spot to climb down and put a tentative foot over the edge. No sooner had he started his descent, however, than his legs shot from under him and he tumbled down the bank. He came to a halt with his feet submerged in the water. Mud was seeping through the seat of his trousers and his arms were soaked up to his elbows, yet above him Duong had watched his plunge with not a flicker of concern.

Kemp stood up, brushed himself down and straightened his clothes with as much dignity as he could muster. When he finally looked up to the riverbank once more he saw that Captain Le was laughing.

Deep, clinging sludge sucked at Kemp’s shoes as he staggered out of the undergrowth and plodded towards the body. This close to the water, the muted hiss of the river moving past was much louder. He pulled back the rubber sheet and gazed down at the victim. As a police officer he had walked into houses splashed with blood up the walls, had come upon shallow graves where hands, feet and skulls lay exposed to the air; had visited murder scenes too numerous to mention, yet he still found the sight of a dead body infinitely disturbing.

The dead woman was wearing a soiled and muddied black dress. She was lying on her back with her head on the bank and her feet in the water, her arms stretched out to the side, crucifixion-style.

Her skin was grey and there was a deep and ragged slash across her throat. In life she would have been thought attractive but now, with filth and grime and gore smeared across her features, was infinitely less so. Seeing the way she had been laid out and the injuries she had received, Kemp knew instinctively that her killer was the same person who had murdered Nguyen Hai Hien.

One of the victim’s hands, he noted, had been placed amongst some river weeds and stood out brightly against

the green, the other was missing the top of a ring finger. All that remained was a stump, neatly severed below the first knuckle.

Eventually, Kemp struggled up the bank to where Duong awaited him. For a moment the two of them were alone.

Then two mortuary officials suddenly materialised out of nowhere and clambered down the bank. Kemp looked round and saw that the mortuary van that had brought them to the crime scene was parked over to one side, its rear doors gaping.

“Nguyen Hai Hien’s killer’s been at work again,” Kemp said.

Tran nodded.

“Whoever did this is going to do it again,” he added. “He takes rings. This time he took a finger too.”

“Captain Le say same thing.”

The two ambulance men strapped the body onto a stretcher and got ready to haul it up the bank. Kemp moved towards them and Duong followed. With the two of them at the top of the slope and the mortuary men at the bottom they managed to drag the victim up onto dry land. Together, the four of them carried the corpse over to the mortuary van and lifted it inside.

“It’s the same man,” Kemp said.

“They’ve both been cut the same way; they’ve both been laid out the same way.”

Duong came suddenly to life, slapped him on the shoulder. “You, me find him,” he grinned.

Kemp, however, was less optimistic.

He had come to Vietnam to find Nguyen Hai Hien, but she had swiftly turned up dead, which meant that his job had ended almost before it had begun, except that Nguyen Cong Hau, the dead girl’s mother had phoned him from South Africa the night before and begged him to stay on to find her daughter’s killer. He had reluctantly agreed, but was already regretting his decision.

Binh Thanh District It took the police less than 24 hours to identify the victim. Her name was Bich Thuong Ho. She had worked as a waitress in a restaurant that was popular with westerners, a place in town on Hai Ba Trung.

Bich Thuong’s tearful 18-year-old sister answered the door and led Kemp and Duong into the living room. The two detectives sat side-by-side on a sofa. Across the room from them the father, unshaven and red-eyed from sleeplessness, sat facing them in an armchair.

The interview was conducted in Vietnamese with the daughter translating.

“Do you or your daughter have any enemies, Mr Ho?” Kemp asked.

The father shook his head.

“Have you any idea who could have abducted her?”

This time the father looked less certain, exchanged a look with his daughter.

“Bich Thuong met a western man at work,” the sister said. “We think it’s him.”

“Why him?”

She spoke rapidly to her father. This time Duong translated. “Just feeling,” he said.

The sister was nodding.

“Did Bich Thuong meet him the night she vanished?” Kemp asked.

Again, there was a long and involved conversation in Vietnamese that Kemp couldn’t follow.

“Yes,” Duong said eventually.

That was when the sister spoke up: “His name is Gerard,” she said.

It was such an unexpected revelation, all the more surprising coming so suddenly out of the blue.

Kemp suddenly felt his excitement mounting. “Are you sure of that?” he asked. “What about a surname?”

The girl shook her head. “My sister only know his first name. Gerard,” she said. “His name is Gerard.”

Look out for Episode 5 in our November issue.

This is a work of fiction. All names, characters and incidents are invented. Rob Marsh is the author of 30 published books (both fiction and non-fiction). He has a special interest in matters crime-related and is the author of Famous South African Crimes and With Criminal Intent: the changing face of crime in South Africa. He currently lives in Ho Chi Minh City.

October 2012 Word | 151

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Ng uye n

Tru on g

Le

Ph am

N

TR UN G

6

Van

Ba Hu yen Tha nh Qu an

Ly Chi nh

B

Q3

HA IB A

P

Kh ac

Ta n

cT oa n

Air po r t

Qu ye n

HU

KH OI NG HI A

Ph un g

Din h

KY

L e Va n Ta m Pa r k

Ng uy en

Tr uo ng

5

Ng uy en

4 Va n

3

o

n Hie ng uo Th en uy Ng

152 | Word October 2012

Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 - F3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Q3 - A4, A5, B3, B4, C2, C3, D1, D2, E1 Nguyen Du, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C5, D3, D5 Nguyen Hue, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Nguyen Huu Canh, Q1 - A7, B7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 - C6 Nguyen Son Ha, Q3 - E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 - E7, F7 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 - E5, F4 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 - E4, F4, F5 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 - C2, C3, D2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 - A5, A6, B4, B5, C3, C4, D2, D3, E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Thong, Q3 - B1, C1, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien, Q3 - D1, E2 Nguyen Trai, Q1 - E2, E3, F2 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 - A7, B6 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 - D5 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 - A4 Pasteur, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, D6, E6 Pham Hong Thai, Q1 - E4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1, Q3 - A3, A4, B4, B5 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 - E3, E4, E5, F2, F3 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1 - E1, F1 Phan Boi Chau, Q1 - D5 Phan Chau Trinh, Q1 - D5 Pho Duc Chanh, Q1 - E5, F5, F6 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 - A4, A5 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 - D2, D3, E2 Thai Van Lung, Q1 - B6, C6 Thi Sach, Q1 - C6, C7 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 - D4, D5 Thu Thiem Tuunnel, E7 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 - A6, B6, B7, C7, D7, E7 Ton That Dam, Q1 - D6, E6 Ton That Thiep, Q1 - D6 Ton That Tung, Q1 - E2 Tran Cao Van, Q1 - A5, B4 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 - E4, E5, F3, F4 Tran Quoc Thao, Q3 - A1, A2, B2, B3, C3 Tran Quoc Toan, Q3 - A2, B2 Truong DInh, Q1, Q3 - B1, B2, C2, C3, D3, D4, E4 Truong Quyen, Q3 - A3, A4 Tu Xuong, Q3 - A3, B2, C1 Vo Thi Sau, Q3 - A2, A3, B1, B2, C1 Vo Van Kiet ( East West Highway) - E6, F5, F6 Vo Van Tan, Q3 - B4, C3, C4, D2, E1, E2 Vuon Chuoi, Q3 - D1 Yershin, Q1 - E4, F5

uoi Ch on Vu

Alexandre De Rhodes, Q1 - B5, C4 Au Trieu, Q1 - D6, E6 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 - B1, C2, D3 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 - D3, E2, E3 Bui Vien, Q1 - F3, F4 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1, Q3 - C1, D2, D3 Calmette, Q1 - E5, F5 Cao Thang, Q10 - E1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 - B6 Co Bac, Q1 - F4 Cong Huynh, Q1 - E1, E2, F2, F3 De Tham, Q1 - E4, F4 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Q3 - A4, B2, B3, C1, C2, D1 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 - A5, A6 Do Quang Dau, Q1 - F3 Doan Van Bo, Q4 - F6 Dong Du, Q1 - C6, D6 Dong Khoi, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Hai Ba Trung Q1 - A3, A4, B5, C6, C7 Ham Nghi, Q1 - E5, E6, E7 Han Thuyen, Q1 - C5 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 - D6, D7 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 - D6, E6 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3 - C2, D2 Hoang Dieu, Q4 - F6, F7 Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Q1 - C4, D4 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 - D6, E5 Ky Con, Q1 - E4, E5, F5 Ky Dong, Q3 - A1, B1 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 - E5 Le Duan, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C4, C5 Le Lai, Q1 - E3, E4, E5 Le Loi, Q1 - C6, D5, D6 Le Ngo Cat, Q3 - C1, C2 Le Quy Don, Q3 - B2, B3 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 - B6, B7, C5, C6, D4, D5, E4 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 - E4, E5 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 - E3 Luong Huu Khanh, Q1 - E2 Luu Van Lang, Q1 - D5 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 - A1, B1, C1 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 - B6, C5, C6, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 - A4, A5, B5, B6 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 - C6, D6 Me Linh Circle, Q1 - D7 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, E5, E6 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 - D6, D7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 - B2, B3, C2 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 - B7 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 - D4, D5, E4 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 - A6, A7 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 - E5, E5, F4, F5

A

g Sa Truon ng Sa H oa

Ky

CENTRAL HCMC

NA M

hinh Thang Ly C

Street Index

2

Va n

1

N

{crossword}

1

2

3

4

5

14

6

7

10

11

18

24

25

26

32

27

33

34

35

40

43

51 55

63

45

47

50

62

41

44

46

54

37

28 31

39

42

36

22

30

38

13

19 21

29

12

16

20

49

9

15

17

23

8

48

52

53 56 59

57

58

64

65

60 66

67

67

69

ACROSS 1. Any pop music icon, for example 5. Music’s Arista, Atlantic and Apple 11. Pothole-patching stuff 14. Tiny bit 15. Singer Newton-John who has won four 58-Acrosses 16. Scarfed down 17. Digital format for much pop music: 2 wds.

19. Nonstick cookung sray 20. Device such as a BlackBerry or Palm Pilot, for short 21. ____ Vegas 22. Quarterback Manning 23. Hall & ____ (Pop duo that had six #1 hits) 26. Kind of guitar in a rock band 28. Highest point 29. Apple’s porable music player

61

30. Individual song on an album 31. 1998-2008 MTV show that featured popular music videos, for short 32. Cut off, as branches 33. Main singing parts in bands: 2 wds.

38. Response to a punch in the gut

39. ____ Francisco 40. Suffix with velvet or Hallow 41. Supportive vote 42. Female who sings 33-Across in a band 45. Fish that may be “electric” 46. Sugar ____ (band with the 1997 #1 hit “Fly”) 47. Album ____ (designs on a record’s cover) 48. Boats like Noan’s 49. The best of ____ worlds 51. “The ____ the limit!”

53. “I Don’t Want to ____ Thing” (1998 Aerosmith hit): 2 wds.

54. When said three times, a 1983 #1 hit for Paul McCartney and Michael Jackson 55. French holy woman: Abbr.

56. “Tell ____ About It” (Billy

Joel hit) 57. Suffix meaning “somewhat” 58. Annual honor in categories such as Best New Artist and Record of the Year: 2 wds.

64. 502, in Roman numerals 65. Bring to the same pitch, as instruments in a band: 2 wds.

66. Rock band with the 1980s hits “Heat of the Moment” and “Don’t Cry” 67. Approximate amount: Abbr.

68. Place to record an album 69. Barks sharly DOWN 1. “Attrack, Splot!”

2. “I’m ____ Sexy” (1992 #1 hit) 3. 240hr. banking convenience 4. Performed like Eminem or 50 Cent 5. “Livin” La Vida ____” (Ricky Martin hit) 6. ____-rock (music genre) 7. Auction offer 8. Wicked deeds 9. Signers Stansfield and Loeb 10. Bodily pouches 11. These were commonly used to listen to music before 17-Acrosses became popular: 2 wds.

12. Charles Dickens’s “____ of Two Cities”: 2 wds.

13. Club version of a pop song, for example 18. Product plugs 23. ____ Olay (former name for a face cream brand): 2 wds.

Trivia Buff 1) What band had a number one hit in 1996 with the song Breakfast at Tiffany's?

2) In what city is the world's largest medieval cathedral?

3) In the world of history what were “Little Boy and Fat Man”?

4) What major sporting milestone occurred on May 6, 1954?

5) The pub name The White Hart is named after which king's heraldic symbol?

6) What city is known as the world's chocolate capital?

7) Occurring twice yearly, what name is

154 | Word October 2012

Photo of the Month

Answers on page 4

POPULAR MUSIC

24. “I’m just ____ boy. I need no sympathy” (“Bohemain Rhapsody” lyric): 2 wds.

25. Song on a popular Billboard chart: 3 wds.

26. Spainish for “good” 27. ____ loss for words: 2 wds.

28. Circle segment 30. Cat’s weapon 31. 2000 pounds 34. Dartings 35. Opening o let out air 36. Onion relatives 37. Music genre of Marc Anthony or Celia Cruz 39. Pig’s home 43. Slangy refusal 44. Might 48. Windpipe, for one 49. Half of a pop signle regarded as the less important one: Hyph.

50. Band with the 1996 hit “Wonderwall” 51. Walk like a peacock (or a 1984 Sheena Easton hit) 52. Actor Reeves who played 26-Across in the band Dogstar 53. “Somebody Get ____ Docor” (Van Halen Song): 2 wds.

55. Mil. officers 56. Syringe, for short 59. Dr.’s field 60. Hong Kong pop music 61. The Beatles’ “Free ____ Bird”: 2 wds.

62. Copy, as music from a 17-Across to a hard drive 63. Karl Marx’s “_____ Kapital”

by Viet Nguyen

Do you own a photograph that would look go od here? Email it to christine@ wordhcmc.co m

Between rocks and a hard place

Answers on page 2 given two a day that consists of 12 hours of daylight & 12 hours of darkness?

8) What was ‘81 a good year for according to Elvis Costello?

9) Who directed Alice Doesn't Live Here Anymore?

10) A gathering of this type of animal is known as a dazzle) What’s the animal?

11) In Old English which word meant a field?

12) Who was “standing in the shadows of love” in 1964?

13) What famous ship do the runners pass after completing 10km of The London

Marathon?

14) What Formula One company have their headquarters in Woking in Surrey?

15) Who killed Sharon Tate in 1969?

16) What author wrote the screenplay for the movie You Only Live Twice?

17) What group took My Perfect Cousin to number 9 at the start of the 80s?

18) Who ran naked through the street shouting, “Eureka”?

19) What was the top selling album, David Bowie Single, & box office hit in 1986?

20) What is AG the chemical symbol for?

"It doesn't look good. He's still not responsive even when I show him the bill."

October 2012 Word | 155

on THE

STOOL

The founding fathers of quoc ngu, the Roman script adapted to the Vietnamese language, the Portuguese have long had an influence on Vietnam. The honorary Portuguese Consul-General to Ho Chi Minh City, Afonso Vieira is following the footsteps of his forefathers

THE PERSON Your favourite book?

If I have to pick one, I would pick Fooled

by Randomness by Nassim Taleb, from Lebanon. It's a book about human misperceptions, about luck disguised and perceived as skills.

Who are your favourite heroes of fiction?

Conan, the boy of the future. It's a 1978 Japanese cartoon that takes action in the future, after a war that almost killed all humans on earth. It had a profound influence on me.

Your favourite actor and why?

I have many. The one I like the most is Woody Allen, not because of his acting skills but because he is a true author. He writes, directs and acts in most of his movies.

What historical figures do you most admire?

Many. But I think if I am given the choice of choosing one (and only one) figure from the 20th century I would pick Winston Churchill. He led and inspired millions of people in a terrible moment of human history.

What is your motto?

What would I do if I wasn't afraid?

THE BUSINESS How did you become the Honorary ConsulGeneral for Portugal in Saigon?

I sent a business proposal to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Portugal in 2009 suggesting my own appointment. I think they were surprised at first, but the candidacy made perfect sense economically. After background checks and screening, of both my personal and professional life (in Portugal and Vietnam), I was appointed in March 2011.

How big is the Portuguese community in Saigon? Are there restaurants or festivals

156 | Word October 2012

held during the year where one can experience the culture?

Small, from 30 to 50 people only. No private or government sponsored activities. That won't change in the next two to five years mainly because of economic reasons on both sides.

What do you think of the Portuguese influence of the Romanised Vietnamese script? Does this make it easier for you to learn the local language?

I wish it did. Portuguese explorers started to navigate the coast of Vietnam in 1511.

They always travelled with priests because they fulfilled the double role of compiling dictionaries to communicate with the local populations for trade purposes and to reassure the sailors that God was on their side. The Vietnamese-Portuguese dictionary published by Alexandre de Rhodes in 1651 — who happens to be French — is the compilation of several dictionaries done previously by many Portuguese missionaries. The first time Vietnamese children were taught the letters of a Latin alphabet was under the orientation of Gaspar do Amaral, who published the first Portuguese-Vietnamese dictionary in 1634, and spent several years at the Court of the Trinh Lords in Hanoi.

Today, the only copies of these handwritten Vietnamese-Portuguese dictionaries are in the Vatican's archives.

Besides language, what other influences have the Portuguese had on Vietnam through its missionaries?

Although Catholicism comes to mind, I think the strongest influence was trade.

The arrival of the Portuguese in 1511 gave the possibility to the Vietnamese to export goods to Europe and Asia. This was probably the strongest influence in Vietnam at the time — globalisation well ahead of its time.

What is your goal as Honorary ConsulGeneral?

I follow in the footsteps of my ancestors.

My goal is to increase trade between the two countries.

MUST GO LA˘NG CÔ BANYAN TREE