Microshiner - Autumn 13

Another gem from Brooklyn: VAN BRUNT STILLHOUSE

MicroShiner Autumn 2013

Definitive Guide to the World of Craft Spirits

The

WYOMING WHISKEY BARONS

OLD NEW ORLEANS RUM

USED OAK BARREL ARTISAN

Distillery in the Rough

A Repurposed Life

SPIRIT REVIEW Craft Destinations & Events AUTUMN 2013

$10.99 US/CAN

MicroShiner Join the Movement—Subscribe Now! www.MicroShiner.com

PAGE 4 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by Vincent Buckley

Missoula, Montana www.HurrocaneClothing.com

contents Letter From the Publisher Drinking Music Spirit Review—Better Days Bourbon Craft Destinations—Writers’ Fall Opus Craft Events—Independent Spirits Expo Crafting Cocktails—Bartender Interview Distillery Highlight—Charbay Winery & Distillery Distillery in the Rough—Old New Orleans Rum Van Brunt Stillhouse—History & Spirits in Red Hook, Brooklyn The Wyoming Whiskey Barons Pairings - Wyoming Whiskey A Repurposed Life

autumn

2013 11 12 16 18 20 25 26 31 47 66 82 93

Publisher Design Director Staff Contributors

Staff Photographers

Cobey Williamson Alex Vitti Nels Wroe Marisa Lyon Kimberly Naslund Jeff Mattson Luc Nadeau Michael Marquand Brian Cary

Event Marketing

Ryan Murphy

Webmaster

Kelsey Binder

Contributing Writers

Contributing Photographers

Patrick Romanowski Chrissy Cary Kimberly Bell Nicholas Matsas Vincent Buckley Working Dog Media, LLC 1406 Summerdale Rd Corvallis, MT 59828

Š2013 All rights reserved. The contents of this magazine cannot be duplicated without the prior written consent of the owner. The views contained within the contents of MicroShiner Magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of its owners or staff.

Cover Photo by Luc Nadeau, Inside Cover & Contents Photos by Michael Marquand

Photo by Michael Marquand ÂŤ MicroShiner.com | PAGE 9

Letter from the Publisher

PAGE 10 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by Vincent Buckley

Letter from the

PUBLISHER

How I came to learn about craft spirits was on a business trip to Bozeman. I was in town for a meeting and had made arrangements afterward to meet up with a good friend who teaches at Montana State University.

We met at Bacchus, an aptly named pub downtown. Bozeman is decidedly New West, with healthy doses of college and ski infused into the heart of this traditionally cow town, and its large tracts, stunning vistas, and autonomic spirit have imbued it with a surprising degree of affluence for such a small city. What better place to start a whiskey distillery?

I have long been a fan of craft. Living in Montana, it’s easy to be. Traveling between my home and work alone, I pass seven microbreweries and two distilleries, Swanson’s and Montgomery. In the West, micro just makes sense. Transportation routes are long, essential ingredients readily available, and most importantly, the customer base is both thirsty and receptive. Couple these qualities with a Westerners natural tendency toward individualism and the large flocks of tourists looking to try something regional and new, and you have the perfect recipe for a handcrafted success story.

Funny thing is, craft is nothing new. In fact, it used to be the rule, not the exception, and it was in the East, not the West, where one could find a distiller, brewer, or cider maker operating in every town. As our contributor Marisa Lyon points out in her piece on Van Brunt Stillhouse, New York City in the 1800s boasted dozens of distilleries, plying the town with a variety of spirits until a combination of economic factors and Prohibition reduced that number essentially to zero.

Fortunately for us, we are in the dawn of a new era of craft, and not only of spirits.

Hand wrought products of every kind are on the rise, and often at levels of quality that are more aligned with bespoke than your grandmother’s Christmas bazaar.

From handmade furniture to artisan soaps and chocolates, individual character and regional flavor are more readily available than any time in recent memory.

“What is this?” I asked the waitress as we settled onto our stools at Bacchus, pointing to a cardstock flyer in the center of our table emblazoned with the words Rough Stock Whiskey - Bozeman, MT. “Do they actually make this here?”

One sip was all it took.

MicroShiner was born.

Cobey Williamson Publisher

DRINKING MUSIC

By Jeff Mattson

Drinking Music Seattle | London | Fort Collins Music and spirits are inextricably intertwined. Whether it’s the

purpose than sheer enjoyment.

rat pack & martinis, the jazz age and bathtub gin, saloon whis-

key and a player piano, or just pickin’ on the porch with a jar

awash with corporate product. Artists are groomed and se-

of shine, where you find one, you will likely find the other. So

lected based on one thing: their ability to sell records. All of

many analogies exist between the two that we felt, as a maga-

the coarseness and irregularity is eliminated, and much of

zine about craft and spirits, inclined – nay almost obliged – to

the nuance and the intangible lost. To paraphrase Neil Young

dedicate some space to music.

at the onset of the digital age, the real music lives between

the 0 and 1.

Music is a craft. Doing it well depends on bringing a

Just as it is in the spirits business, the music market is

number of elements together in just the right proportions,

In that regard, and in keeping with the theme of this pub-

and as with crafting spirits the resultant product is al-

lication, what we hope to offer you here is that space between

ways greater than the sum of its parts. Differences in equip-

the step and the curve that is so important, yet often goes over-

ment, training, ingredients, recipes are reflected in subtle,

looked. Here we hope to share some bands and music that you

and sometimes not so subtle, variations in character, flavor,

might just find playing onstage in your local tasting room or

tenor, and tone. Each begins with a handful of raw material

watering hole. Here, as with the micro-distilleries we focus on,

that, through a practiced and perfected process, culminates

you just might happen upon someone you know, and together

in a refined and handcrafted product, often for no greater

enjoy a little drinking music.

These Arms Are Snakes

Tail Swallower and Dove (A Retrospective Exploration)

Coming alive in 2002 after the break-up of Seattle hardcore heroes Botch, Minneapolis native Kill Sadie, and Seattle heavyweights Nineironspitfire, the band These Arms Are Snakes formed and would ultimately become frontrunners of what would be referred to as the Seattle Sound Revolution, which encompassed the greater Seattle area in the 2000’s.

They featured Steve Snere

dazed and exhausted. These

absolutely dominating album

tains”, a leviathan that dives

on vocals, Brian Cook on

Arms Are Snakes truly left

opener “Woolen Heirs”, where

at dusk and charges straight

bass and keyboards, R yan

an impression on me in the

we hear Brian Cook and Ryan

into the night. “I am cow, I am

Frederiksen on guit a r, a n d

form of the most fun I’ve had

Frederiksen deliver crushing

sheep, I am strung up horse

C h r i s C o m m o n on drums.

at a concert, as well as inspi-

blow after crushing blow un-

meat,” Steve preaches, as the

rational muse to countless

til finally breaking away from

song begins its steady trek

became the epitome of what it

These Arms Are Snakes

art projects.

the layers of bass and guitar

into the zenith which comes

meant to be classified as the

Their final studio album,

distortion into a lush forest

as a soul crushing blast after

new Seattle sound, expanding

before finally parting ways,

of synthesizer keyboards and

worlds of delay ridden guitar

on grunge, taking the heavier

was entitled “Tail Swallower

disembodied modulated vo-

plateaus and bass have tied

elements from hardcore, bor-

and Dove”, released in 2008

cals. This work is a true re-

one into a frenzy of passion

rowing only the more interest-

on Suicide Squeeze Records.

finement of their sound. Lead

and delirium.

ing sounds of experimental

Crammed heavy with the best

vocalist Steve Snere mumbles,

rock, they created a sound

parts of previous albums, the

snarls, howls, and manipu-

check out something you may

that was brutal with passion

long drawn out post-rock in-

lates his way through the di-

have missed, a sound from

and innovation. They became

fluenced tracks like “Briggs”

vine clash of sinisterly heavy

a time and a genre that are

known for their wild and un-

and “Ethric Double”, synthe-

bass and crumbling guitar.

less part of the hip musical

relenting

sizer led experimental pow-

My favorite track on the al-

spotlight these days with the

erhouse

bum is entitled “Seven Cur-

popularity

live

performances

that left anyone in attendance

PAGE 12 | MicroShiner.com

“Lucifer”,

and

the

This is a call for you to

of

dubstep

and

Autumn 2013

neo-soul. We are left some of

tle Sound Revolution” bands

the energy that These Arms

to check out if you’re inter-

Are Snakes were known for,

ested: The Fall of Troy (dis-

however, in the form of the

banded), The Blood Brothers

former members’ newer proj-

(disbanded), Minus the Bear

ects: instrumental rock band

(active), Crystal Skulls (ac-

Russian Circles features Brian

tive), Akimbo (inactive), Mon

Cook on bass; the hardcore

Frere (disbanded), and Pretty

band Narrows finds guitar-

Girls Make Graves (disbanded)

ist Ryan Frederiksen teamed

among countless others.

up with former Botch vocalist

Dave Verellen. And finally the

on the heavier side of the

experimental electronic group

rock spectrum. These Arms

Crypts features Steve Snere

Are Snakes will certainly give

on vocals.

you a punch, best paired with

rum. Enjoy nostalgically.

Other noteworthy “Seat-

But be warned, this falls

DRINKING MUSIC

These New Puritans

Field of Reeds

These New Puritans are a band from London consisting of twin brothers, Jack Barnett (vocalist, multi-instrumentalist, producer) and George Barnett (loops, drums), as well as Thomas Hein (bass, drums, samples, and keys). The best descriptor I could give as to what this band sounds like is chamber rock, in a low key sense. And even as I type these words, I know I’m way off base.

These guys are a genre all

hushed and drawling quality

In the track “Organ Exter-

plenty of classical influence to

their own, and each subse-

of the album. Winds and brass

nal”, true to its namesake, syn-

lend it atmosphere; there even

quent

sounded

rise out of layers of fantastical

thesizer organs swirl around

appear beeps and blips that

drastically different than the

daze. Indiscernible, slightly

your psyche, whirling high into

sound oddly similar to Morse

rest. It seems theirs is an in-

harmonious voices float over

a vortex, streaked with human-

code, thus contributing a cast-

credible and admirable pur-

stretched chorded keys. This

oid yelps, squeaks, and what

away touch to the song.

suit, of writing in a completely

entire album has the mood

one might even interpret as

new way each time they re-

of a dream you can’t quite re-

pleas. “V (Island Song)” con-

spent recording this album

cord an album.

member, it’s on the tip of your

tinues on the piano theme

have paid off. The final prod-

With hints of jazz, clas-

frontal lobe, yet tucked snug-

of “The Light In Your Name”,

uct they’ve unveiled is goliath

sical, rock, and rolling avant

gly in your amygdala. A daring

and expands in a way that

in scale. They’ve created a vast

garde, this album feels like

haze, it’s a brilliant and fogged

touches on the best of mini-

zephyr out of their efforts, a

a haunting memory. In re-

hum of flow of consciousness

malist

offering

cleverly dark and ruminous

cording this album, vocalist

that feels like the disjointed,

up morose murmured vocals

album. An easy competitor for

Jack Barnett has said that

darker scenes of a Michel

like “I am the reason, not the

one of my favorite releases this

he worked through each sen-

Gondry film (i.e. Eternal Sun-

questions, not the answers”

year. This album calls for a

tence of lyrics to remove un-

shine or The Science of Sleep)

that leave you crushed and

well crafted and appropriately

necessary consonants, thus

mixed with the brooding fairy

refined. “Fragment Two” is a

romantic absinthe (we recom-

contributing to the overall

tale splendor of Lewis Carroll.

piano led search, filled with

mend Dark Corner).

album

has

PAGE 14 | MicroShiner.com

electronica,

Clearly the long hours

Autumn 2013

Fierce Bad Rabbit

The Maestro and the Elephant

Fierce Bad Rabbit, a four piece indie outfit based loosely out of Fort Collins, CO, has for several years now been shaking up the Rocky Mountain scene with what many feel is the perfect recipe for a tasty musical cocktail, meaningful lyrics mixed with just enough innovative songwriting and instrumental flavor to make it entertaining sonically without watering down the message.

Band mates Chris Anderson

best enjoyed straight through

til the album makes a minor

Bourbon, christened after the

(lead vocals, guitar), Alana

from start to finish. Bookend-

melancholy departure with

song of the same name from

Rolfe

Max

ed nicely by the intro track

the title track. Standout tune

their latest album. Earlier this

Barcelow (drums/percussion/

“Wildflowers” and the effective

“Here’s Looking at You” would

year, the band joined Feisty

vocals), and Dayton Hicks

closer “Shooting Stars”, upon

feel perfectly at home in any

co-founder Jamie Gulden for a

(bass guitar) began their

reaching the end it really feels

honkytonk, opening with a

tasting at the distillery, sam-

musical journey together in

like you’ve been someplace.

guitar lick reminiscent of the

pling different whiskeys and

early 2009, developing their

Firmly based in a modern

Motherhips and the evoca-

ingredients to note particular

repertoire from a stockpile

indie rock sound, the album

tive line “’broken bottles on

flavors and assist in the se-

of songs Anderson had writ-

pinballs through genres, flirt-

the floor, mourning from the

lection of what would become

ten while visiting West Af-

ing with various styles but

night before.”

Better Days Bourbon.

rica. Building off a core fan

never quite surrendering to

base in Colorado, they have

any one in particular. “Mat-

embracing

independent

project,” said vocalist Chris

released

(viola,

vocals),

“We’re excited to do this

to

ter of Time” revolves around a

spirit, Fierce Bad Rabbit is

A n d e r s o n . “ We l o v e g o o d

driving beat suggestive of Ar-

also an active participant in

bourbon and to have our song

White, Spools of Thread, and

cade Fire while “When All You

the world of craft. Recently the

represented in this way is

Live and Learn.

Got Is Worry…Let Go” recalls

band collaborated with Fort

very special to us.”

The band’s latest work,

pure 70s AM gold. “Carry On”

Collins-based micro-distiller

The Maestro and the Ele-

is an uplifting call to arms, a

Feisty Spirits to produce the

a way to start working with

phant, is one of those records

theme which continues un-

limited edition Better Days

the music community and

including

albums

the

Black and

date,

four

Steadfastly committed to

“We had been looking for

when this idea was presented, it was interesting to think of working directly with a band to create a new product,” adds Gulden.

Beautifully appointed, the

bottling features unique artwork from local artist Susanna Dominguez, and the back label contains a quote from the title song and a QR code that offers a free download of the track. This limited release is available in the Feisty Spirits’ tasting room, as well as select locations in the Fort Collins area.

It’s a fitting blend for an

indie band who closes a track with the words “so raise a glass to one more glory day, we all wish you well!”

SPIRIT REVIEW

By Cobey Williamson

Autumn Spirit: Better Days Bourbon – Feisty Spirits, Fort Collins, CO

A bourbon named Better Days seems apropos for autumn, a time of the year revered for both its beauty and bounty. Halloween, harvest, hunting season; there is much to be thankful for, and always Better Days on the horizon. etter Days Bourbon is a

flavors and assist in the selec-

limited

tion of what would ultimately

edition

release

from Feisty Spirits in Fort Col-

make up Better Days.

lins, CO, and is a collabora-

tion between the distillery and

tainly that, with a spicy pro-

the band Fierce Bad Rabbit.

file that comes on strong but

Jamie Gulden and the team

mellows as it is enjoyed. In

at Feisty had been looking for

our head to head tasting with

a way to begin working with

some of Diagio’s most vener-

the local music community

able single malts, “immature”

and found the idea of working

was the descriptor most of-

directly with a band to create

ten heard. Given that, we’re

a new product intriguing. A

hoping Feisty has a barrel

tasting was scheduled to al-

stashed somewhere so we can

low members of the band to

see what Better Days might

sample different whiskies and

taste like in another ten or

ingredients to note particular

twenty years.

PAGE 16 | MicroShiner.com

The unique recipe is cer-

CRAFT DESTINATIONS

By Kimberly Bell

Writers’ Fall Opus The University of Montana – Missoula, MT

This September, The University of Montana’s Creative Writing Department held its fifth annual Writers’ Fall Opus. The event—held in the Governor’s Room at The Florence Hotel and catered by Two Sisters—brings the university and the community together to raise funds that benefit UM’s renowned student-run literary magazines, The Oval and Cutbank, UM’s Visiting Writers Series, and student scholarships in creative writing. eaded-up this year by sponsors

Literature and libations have always

Stubblefield to create an event that

Kevin Head and Charlie Brown,

been a match made in heaven, and the

would, “make the community aware of

and overseen by Program Director Judy

Opus is no exception to that rule. In

the writing community within,” and its

Blunt and her Co-Coordinator, writer

addition to the silent auction’s “Books

safe to say they achieved that and more.

Robert

Opus

and Bottles” offerings—which included

The Writers’ Fall Opus was yet another

was a magnificent success. Of course,

a cherry kirsch from Whistling Andy’s,

demonstration of what happens when a

it couldn’t have happened without the

among other covetable delights—of-age

community like Missoula—a community

many Missoula businesses and individu-

guests enjoyed an incredible variety of

that cares about quality over quantity,

als who showed their support either by

wines and single malts at a tasting bar

craft over commercial—dedicates itself to

attending, donating high-quality goods

generously donated and staffed by The

fostering those same passions and con-

and services to the event’s live and si-

Rhinoceros’s Kevin Head, who graduated

cerns in others. “It’s more of a friendrais-

lent auctions and raffle prize, or both.

from the program in 2012. (Some of these

er than a fundraiser,” says Stubblefield.

Said one newcomer to the event, the live

palate-pleasers included Balcones, an

auction items—ranging from a guided

award-winning single malt from Austin,

Cheers from the staff at Microshiner to

fly-fishing trip with local writer Jamie

Texas, and Ardbog, from the masters of

the many small businesses and individu-

Rogers to a Monte Dolack original oil

malt at the Ardbeg distillery in Scotland’s

als who donated their effort, their goods,

painting—were, “the best (he’d) ever seen

Islay region.)

their time, and their friendship to such a

at a fundraiser.”

worthwhile cause.

Stubblefield,

PAGE 18 | MicroShiner.com

the

2013

Five years ago, Head worked with

THE ELLENSBURG DISTILLERY

The Ellensburg Distillery 1000 North Prospect St. Suite 3, Ellensburg, WA 98926 (509) 925-1295 | http://www.TheEllensburgDistillery.com

CRAFT EVENTS

By Pat Romanowski | Photography By Nicholas Matsas

Independent Spirits Expo The Hilton Hotel – Chicago, IL Once upon a time in the city of Chicago an infamous bootlegging gangster named Al Capone was known to have run the booze trade. Although Prohibition might have gone belly up in 1933, that same sense of underground culture and ingenious spirit was again running high at the Hilton on South Michigan Avenue, in the form of the 2013 Independent Spirits Expo. nd, man, the juice was hot. And dry.

adorned the booths along with a host of

of the ceiling lit brilliantly the

And bitter. And sweet. And strong

complimentary products, including ton-

gold walled Buckingham room

and sour and all of these things in the

ics, mixers, ginger beers and other good-

that housed the estimated 500

best possible ways one can imagine, but

ies. In a refreshing departure, the event

vendors that made it out. The

we’ll get to that.

avoided the feel of just another bullish

main tasting portion of the expo

The event was held on hump day,

marketing opportunity for mainstream

ran from 5 in the evening to

Wednesday the 25th of September, which

distributers to plug their latest swill for a

9:30 PM. By 6:15 the room

was as fine a time as any this crisp early

wholesale buck, and instead captured the

was rolling.

autumn to sample some of the finest sap

true artisanal spirit of the industry, pay-

on the planet. This year marked the 3rd

ing homage to honest to goodness, take

if I wanted to make a fair run

year running for the Expo (which also

it or leave it quality stuff from all around

at sampling as much of what

pops up later in San Francisco), and bless

the globe.

was available as possible I

the drink, it doesn’t appear to be going

Another cool thing about it was that

would have to pace myself, but

away anytime soon.

it was open to anyone who wanted to

everything looked so damn

The Expo, in so many words, was a

grab a ticket ($50-$75, a fair price to pay

tempting. In a bold stretch

U.N. style gathering of the who’s who in

and worth every cent on the return). Any

of ten feet one could stop

independent distilling, showcasing the

member of the public could get in on the

off and

finest what’s what of the craft spirit scene.

action, try something new, and even learn

A vast array of spirits - whisky, gin, vod-

a thing or two.

ka, tequila, even absinthe and mescal -

PAGE 20 | MicroShiner.com

Crystal chandeliers hung the length

From the start I knew that

Autumn 2013 grab a bit of Pickney Bend Rested Ameri-

anecdote to accompany it, and a well-

France, the exact mixture is at any given

can Small Batch Whisky from New Haven,

schooled and detailed preface marked

time known only to the two monks who

Missouri; then move from there onto a

each sip. It has been said about some

prepare it. The small portion I sampled

chilled shot of an all organic Farmers Gin

artists that their hearts are worn on their

worked on my senses like some kind of a

and cucumber mix to ease the burn from

sleeve; it could be said that these par-

divine elixir, and as I took it in, feeling en-

the former. After a breather and a glass of

ticular artists truly wear their hearts on

tirely revitalized, with sweet spicy earthen

water, one could bite the bullet and mo-

their bottle.

tones coming in glittery waves, the gentle-

sey over to size up a gold bottle of 5 year

Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery, who

man running the booth pulled out a tablet

old Scorpion Mezcal Anejto made of 100%

came up from Nashville, TN, was anoth-

to reveal a slide show of pictures he had

sweet cooked agave.

er booth that I visited. As I was learning

taken during a recent pilgrimage to the

One premier ingredient contributing

about the history of the distillery from

actual hermitage in Chartreuse where the

to the success of the event, aside from the

Charlie Nelson, great-great-great grand-

French monks run their operation.

spirits themselves, were the profession-

son of Charlie Nelson the first, founder of

als working the booths and serving up

the legendary Nelson Distillery, he poured

was also a gathering of spirit writers held

drinks. Surprisingly, a majority of those

out a cup neat from a bottle of their sig-

prior to the event. This open panel dis-

doing the pouring were either the actual

nature Belle Meade Whisky. Surround-

cussion featured both new and seasoned

head distillers of the product themselves,

ed by the clamor of a world class event,

authors and contributing critics spanning

or partners directly involved with some

Charlie and I spoke intimately; I enjoying

the entire breadth of the spirit writing

aspect of the hands on production of

the fruits of their labor while he shared

spectrum, with each author on the panel

the spirit.

the immense history of his family in Ten-

having recently released work devoted

In addition to the main tasting, there

nessee and the legacy of a distillery that

primarily to the craft distilling and cock-

down to earth, human element of the ex-

dates back to 1885.

tail culture at large.

perience added a whole other dimension

to what I was sampling. Their enthusi-

I stopped and tried some Green Char-

ing their introductions every single one of

From a taster’s standpoint, that very

After a few laps around the room,

It was interesting to find that dur-

asm for craft culture and their bold, vig-

treuse, a liqueur whose recipe has been

these writers made a point of noting that

orous passion for the art was right there

kept secret by Carthusian monks since

they had gotten their start with spirits

on hand to back up the product on

1737. An exquisite blend of over 130 dif-

first hand; whether working at a distill-

display. Not a single spirit was

ferent herbs, plants and flowers native

ery, traveling as a rep, just sitting at the

served without a royal intro-

to the Chartreuse Mountain re-

bar or actually working behind it. Many

duction or historical

gion in the south of

CRAFT EVENTS

of them wryly admitted that they didn’t

run of the mill gin and dollar store tonic

going so far as to consider it a worthy and

get into writing about booze on purpose,

on your favorite bar back may someday

valuable aim for the rest of the drinking

though by the same token were not ter-

become a thing of the past. A time may

class to adopt. Of course I must admit

ribly surprised to be doing it for a living

come when the average imbiber may

that particular dream welled up in me

now. Scathingly expert and unflinching-

aspire rather to save his pennies

after having only just sampled the most

ly confident champions of the art, they

and treat himself to a more virtuous,

incredible rum I have ever tasted, which

spoke with immense insight on the craft

high profile bottle of small batch. No

prior to being bottled had rested in casks

cocktail movement that has been gradu-

doubt, the success of the Independent

submerged 7 fathoms below the surface

ally gaining an exciting momentum in the

Spirits Expo is testament itself to this

of the Pacific for over half a decade. Given

last 7 or 8 years.

growing trend.

that qualification, my wholehearted rec-

Casting a final glance about the event

ommendation is that you attend a craft

that’s been steadily blooming over the

center floor, I deigned to envision this kind

distillers festival or independent spirits

past few years is any indication, finding

of future augmentation of taste for myself,

expo, and decide for yourself.

If the resurgence in craft culture

PAGE 22 | MicroShiner.com

CRAFTING COCKTAILS CJ Nielsen pours some ingredients for a freshly mixed custom cocktail.

Autumn 2013

CRAFTING

J Nielsen isn’t a native of New Orleans. She moved to the Big Easy after Katrina to help a

COCKTAILS

BARTENDER INTERVIEW

ask why, she sums it up nicely by saying, “because it’s simple, it’s New Orleans, and it’s the perfectly balanced cocktail.” She

The Big Easy

friend rebuild a house and she’s been there ever since. She spent

would love a stint behind the bar at the French 75 with the leg-

KIMBERLY

five years working in dive bars. Re-

endary Chris Hannah. “I’ve worked

NASLUND

flecting fondly on that experience, she says, “I had a lot of freedom. With a dive

events with him but I want to know what it’s like to work with him behind

bar you can call an—hole an—hole and

that bar.”

kick ‘em out. It’s empowering.”

venture to the city in droves, attending

As she leans on the bar of the Lucky

seminars, frequenting tasting events, and

French Space Program. In a not-so-

Rooster, that particular freedom is a

imbibing an endless supply of cocktails,

subtle ode to her lowbrow past, half of

thing of the past. She’s now managing

all the while being courted for their affec-

the glass is crusted with Tang (yes, the

the bar at one of New Orleans newest up-

tions by liquor brands large and small.

punch mix). She serves it extremely cold.

scale drinking establishments, a change

“Tales of the Cocktail is like sum-

The first taste is smooth and bitter fol-

in venue which provides her with a whole

mer camp, seeing all my best friends in

lowed by a burst of tangy sweetness. It’s a

new kind of freedom: creative liberty with

my own city,” CJ says. “Walking past the

perfect expression of not only her creative

the cocktail list.

Monteleone (the hotel where the event is

talent, but also the lack of pretense and

held) when it’s not Tales is bittersweet.”

joie de vie that is the Big Easy.

The first drink she makes me is the

Killer Bee’s Knees, a twist on the classic.

She starts with Honey Boo Boo Child syr-

path has been blazed through a combi-

up, a house-made honey shrub with apple

nation of hard work, talent, and lasting

cider vinegar. She adds Breuckelen Gin

friendships. “I had a friend that worked

and yellow Chartreuse, and last but not

at Tonique. So I asked if I could work for

least some Old Timey oloroso sherry fla-

free to learn the drinks.” After working

vored salt. Regarding the latter, “the secret

a 10pm to 6am dive bar shift she went

ingredient is time,” she says with a smirk.

ahead and helped her friend open To-

nique at 7am. “I met the owner and not

Cocktails are as much a part of New

The last drink she creates is The

Like many bartenders, her career

Orleans history as jazz is, and that’s nev-

long after I was working there.”

er more apparent than during the annual

Tales of the Cocktail. The five day event

conversation naturally turns to the Saz-

is a pilgrimage for bar professionals. They

erac. It’s CJ’s favorite cocktail. When I

Being at a bar in New Orleans the

The French Space Program - 1 Glorious Breukelen Gin - 1 ½ El Dorado 5yr - 1 Suze - ¼ Bittermens commonwealth - ½ OJ - 1 bar spoon Acid phosphate - Shake/strain over fresh ice in a double old fashioned glass Tang-rimmed Credit: CJ & the Lucky Rooster

MicroShiner.com | PAGE 25

DISTILLERY HIGHLIGHT

By Brian Cary

Charbay Winery & Distillery Honoring a Family Tradition – www.Charbay.com ven though Charbay produces some

son, Miles told Marko that in order to ac-

that this beer would make for an inter-

amazing wine, in my mind it is Char-

tually earn the title of “Master Distiller”

esting spirit. So began his quest to make

bay’s spirit line that takes center stage.

he would have to bring a new product to

what is now called Charbay R5 Hop

Charbay is a family business, and has

market under the Charbay name. Marko

Flavored Whiskey.

been since 1983. Marko Karakasevic

did just that. He teamed up with the mas-

is the Master Distiller at Charbay and

ter brewer Richard Norgrove from Bear

ing whiskey, sitting in the bottle at 99

learned everything from his father, Miles.

Republic Brewery in Healdsburg, Cali-

proof, with tasting notes of baking spice

Together they have been distilling every-

fornia. Bear Republic is known for their

and hops. This whiskey starts as ready-

thing from their famous line of flavored

Racer 5 IPA, Red Rocket Ale and Hop

to-bottle Racer 5 IPA that is then distilled

vodka up through rum, tequila, grappa

Rod Rye. Racer 5 IPA being their most

though Charbay’s massive Alambic cop-

and the brandy that started it all.

popular and Richard constantly produc-

per still and aged in French oak for just

ing batch after batch, Marko thought

under a year. The French oak gives the

Having finally passed the torch to his

PAGE 26 | MicroShiner.com

The R5 Hop Whiskey is a truly amaz-

Autumn 2013

spirit a nice mouth feel and adds more vanilla notes, not to mention imparting the whiskey with a nice dark, rich caramel color.

I, personally, am in love with this

spirit. It defines the change that is to come in the craft spirit world: branching out from the standard “Kentucky Mash Bill” always involving corn! Marko is doing something different that, in my opinion will completely change the way we look at traditional spirits!

Product List Marko hand selects the finest and freshest ingredients direct from their source. Weather its raspberries from Oregon, or citrus from central California. He examines and ensures that each fruit is no more than three days off the plant.

Spirits

Vodkas

-Charbay Tequila

-Clear Vodka

-Tequila Tapatio Blanco 110

-Blood Orange

-Tequila Tapatio Blanco

-Meyer Lemon

-Tequila Tapatio Reposado

-Ruby Grapefruit

-Tequila Tapatio Añejo

-Green Tea

-Whiskey - Doubled & Twisted

-Red Raspberry

-Whiskey - Ii

-Pomegranate

-R5 Whiskey C (Clear) -R5 Whiskey A (Aged)

Aperitifs

-Alambic Pot Still Rum

-Green Tea Aperitif

-Tahitian Vanilla Bean Rum -Pastis -Black Walnut Liqueur -Grappa -Brandy N0.83

Ports -Distillers’ Port -Ruby Port -White Port

CRAFT IS A COMMUNITY

In the wake of the recent disaster in Colorado we in the craft community want to recognize our friends and neighbors affected by the floods.

We encourage you to show your support through your patronage of Colorado’s craft distillers.

DISTILLERY

IN THE

ROUGH

OLD NEW ORLEANS RUM

WRITTEN BY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

CHRISSY CARY

BRIAN CARY

ucked amidst the back roads of

distilled spirit whose quality outweighs

the Big Easy on the border be-

quantity. This rum is favored by food-

tween the 7th and 8th Ward,

ies and spirit aficionados alike, patrons

there stands a large brick build-

who fully appreciate the history behind

ing from the late 1800s surrounded by

the drink and the effort of the men and

machinery and concrete. The front door

women who distill it. From start to finish

is propped open for business. It’s painted

the distillation process is done hands on,

bright red and has the words “Old New

through taste and smell. The final prod-

Orleans Rum” sprawled across it. This

uct: rum with flavor so refined it precludes

building, once a cotton mill, is a perfect

any need to add diet cola to it. Its targeted

example of the vitality that is the heart of

audience: the 25-40 year old individual

New Orleans. The city is able to grow and

who can appreciate not only the outcome

change, take something of prior industry,

but also the hard work and attention to

in ruins amongst the concrete jungle, and

detail that went into creating it.

reimagine it, transitioning its relevance

into the next era.

rates and politicians; it was reported that

American grown and made, the first of

George Washington insisted on having

its kind, Old New Orleans Rum is a craft

rum at his inaugural ball. It is created

Rum has long been linked with pi-

PAGE 32 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn 2013

through a process of fermentation and

distillation of molasses, a byproduct of re-

Rum Distillery began as an idea dur-

fining sugar. Molasses, which was consid-

ing one of his European painting tours.

ered a waste product in the 17th century,

Stopping in Switzerland to visit a friend,

got its start in the Caribbean, where the

Michalopoulos witnessed a traveling dis-

sugar farmers would use the sticky liquid

tiller journey into the center of town with

waste as a way to feed cattle and slaves.

his still in a wagon tied to the back of his

Once said slaves discovered the possibili-

truck. This man proceeded to collect and

ties of what this byproduct could yield, it

purchase produce from the local citizens,

was only a matter of time before the recipe

including apricots grown in Michalopou-

was perfected and mass produced in the

los’ hostess’ yard. He would then ferment

form of rum.

and distill the juices and a week or so lat-

For Michalopoulos, Old New Orleans

The popularity of rum spread quickly

er sell the locally grown spirit back to the

into the British Colonies, and distilleries

townspeople. Michalopoulos was inspired

began to develop in the Northeast around

by this simple yet effective method, and

the 1660s. The trade of molasses, rum,

brought the idea back to Louisiana.

and slaves became New England’s most

popular and prosperous industry. Howev-

ture Center, sugarcane has been grown

er, in response to the increased need for all

in south Louisiana since Jesuit priests

things molasses, in addition to England’s

planted the first crops in 1751; it now

increasing demand for sugar, the British

contributes $2 billion to the local econ-

Parliament passed the Molasses Act of 1733, followed by the Sugar Act of 1764, placing an additional tax on all sugar and sugar byproducts. Rum’s popularity began to wane following the American

Revolu-

According to the Louisiana Agricul-

THE OLDEST PREMIUM RUM DISTILLERY IN THE CONTINENTAL UNITED STATES.

omy. With sugarcane

being

such

an integral part of the

local

Louisi-

ana agriculture, it seemed only natural that the spirit chosen by Michalopoulos would be rum. And surprisingly enough, this

tionary war due to additional restrictions

market had yet to be accessed, despite the

placed upon the export of goods from the

vastness of Louisiana’s crop.

Caribbean Islands to America and the de-

velopment of American whiskey.

leans Distillery, the company has gone

Since the opening of Old New Or-

Which brings us back to modern day

through ebbs and flows. The most notable

Louisiana; less than 4 miles from New

occurred in August 2005, the day Hurri-

Orleans’ French Quarter, in the 7th Ward

cane Katrina roared through The Big Easy

on Frenchman Street, stands the oldest

tearing up the town and flooding anything

premium rum distillery in the continen-

that was still standing. Old New Orleans

tal United States, Old New Orleans. This

Distillery was no exception to this. Prior

retired cotton mill turned artisan rum dis-

to 2005 the aging rum barrels were simply

tillery is home to the Celebration Distilla-

stacked on the floor awaiting the bottling

tion Corporation, founded nearly 20 years

process, so imagine Michalopoulos’ ter-

ago by a group of local artists and musi-

ror when he returned to the distillery to

cians. Their fearless leader: local contem-

find his barrels bobbing in 8 feet of water.

tractors to test the barrels for contamina-

porary artist James Michalopoulos, un-

James was certain that his entire invento-

tion. Once the contractors completed their

official face of the New Orleans art world

ry was ruined, and that he would have to

reports, over 75% of the stock had passed

and longstanding contributor of original

start from scratch. However, in hopes that

and was eligible for resale as a unique

paintings to the formal New Orleans Jazz

some of the barrels had not been damaged

piece of history, their 10 Year “Katrina

and Heritage Festival posters, most re-

and remained air tight, he decided to take

Aged” Rum.

cently in 2013.

a chance and bring in 2 independent con-

PAGE 36 | MicroShiner.com

The distillery receives its molasses-

Autumn 2013

< OPPOSITE Examples of poster art by distillery founder and contemporary painter James Michalopoulos who is considered by many to be the unofficial face of the New Orleans art scene.

ONLY 5 YEARS AFTER ITS CONCEPTUALIZATION, OLD NEW ORLEANS RUM WAS NAMED ONE OF THE TOP 5 SPIRITS IN AMERICA

BY USA TODAY.

PAGE 40 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn 2013

from LaFourche Sugar Mills, located in

charred barrels purchased from whiskey

Thibodaux, LA, where Celebration Distil-

distilleries are also repurposed and given

lation Corporation has done the unthink-

new life. Old New Orleans is able to re-

able for most rum distilleries. They have

use them for an additional 7-8 years, and

built and installed specialized equipment

following their service distilling rum the

in the sugar mill to collect “B-cut” mo-

barrels are then sold off to local breweries

lasses directly, offering them the highest

where the brew masters can create a rum

quality product from which to begin the

aged beer.

hand crafting of this boutique rum.

Inside the distillery, a crew of workers

ative juices of the Celebration Distillation

brings the art of hand crafting spirits to a

crew, an award winning line of American

whole other level. Practically all the equip-

grown and distilled rums have been pro-

ment has been engineered, handcrafted,

duced. Only 5 years after its conceptu-

or refurbished to meet the specific needs

alization, the Old New Orleans rum was

of the plant. A stripping still was fash-

named one of the top 5 spirits in America

ioned out of a tank that was originally in-

by USA Today. And their success didn’t

tended to create perfume in France from

end there; the Amber rum was awarded

1920-1970. Some of the other stills and

the Bronze Medal from the Ministry of

pieces of equipment have been salvaged

Rum in Barbados in 2001, the Bronze

from old dairy farms and breweries. And

medal from the International Review of

the hundreds of oak

Spirits in 2004, and the Gold Medal from

Between the equipment and the cre-

the American Distilling institute in 2007.

The Crystal

PAGE 42 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn 2013

rum was presented with the Silver Medal from the International Review of

This has led

Spirits in 2004 and then again in 2007.

to significant increase in

And last but certainly not least, their Ca-

demand both locally and in a number of

jun Spiced Rum was rated highest by the

other states including New York and Illi-

Beverage Testing Institute in 2007, a feat

nois, thanks to the craft spirit enthusiasts

it repeated in 2010.

found in larger cities there. However, be-

The team at the Old New Orleans

ing popular can lead to production woes;

distillery, however, is never satisfied;

so for now, the plan for this small “distill-

they continue to create and experiment

ery in the rough” is to focus on growing

with new flavors and ideas, recently

its Louisiana market share and continue

developing a new pre-mixed cocktail called

developing new products along the lines

Gingeroo. This ready to drink carbonated

of their pre- bottled cocktails.

cocktail is made of fresh ginger puree,

unprocessed sugar, cayenne infused

wasn’t enough to win one over to craft,

rum, and carbonated water. Just add ice

Old New Orleans has one more treat in

and enjoy.

store for its fans. On the back of every la-

And as if an award winning rum

Amidst a national trend moving rap-

bel is placed an image of one of Micha-

idly toward craft distilling, Old New Or-

lopoulos’ paintings. As the dark rum is

leans Rum is one of the highest quality

consumed, the painting grows clearer,

rums relative to its price point, making

revealing this craft distillery for the true

it a highly sought after boutique spirit.

masterpiece that it is.

six years ago. “It’s almost alchemy,” he said of the distillation process.

But taking his part-time hobby to the next level wasn’t part of the original plan.

THE SINGLE GREATEST INFLUENCE IN HIS QUEST TO DISTILLING WAS BY FOLLOWING SOME SIMPLE ADVICE, ‘BUY A LOT OF ALCOHOL.’

return to port.

A typically

younger spir it, Due North Rum was the first

prod-

uct released

by Van Brunt Stillhouse.

Not until he read a story about

Van Brunt Stillhouse offers a high qual-

O r g a n i c , u n processed sugar grown by

a local New York distiller was his in-

ity year-round menu of spirits: rum in

farmers in the foothills of the Himalayas

terested piqued and the idea for a

the summer, whisky in the fall and win-

adds a subtle sweetness. Charred and

distillery implanted.

ter, and, uniquely, grappa just about

smoky, pungent yet smooth, the rum is

any time.

aged in oak barrels, giving it a whiskey-

up some techniques from Kilchoman

He attended a few classes and picked

Due North Rum, the first local small

like character. Topped with hints of oak

Distillery in Connecticut, but the single

batch rum since Prohibition, offers a

and apple, Due North Rum is a unique

greatest influence in his quest to distilling

unique taste and story to match. Nauti-

take on the historic spirit.

was by following some simple advice, “buy

cal in origin, sailors were once afforded

a lot of alcohol.”

a pint of rum daily. Often watered down,

keys” currently includes American Whis-

Van Brunt’s “growing family of whis-

“I have always been self-taught, and

the sailors identified the strength of the

key, Malt Whiskey, and New Make Whis-

distilling was no different,” Daric shared.

grog according to the compass points.

key, commonly known as moonshine.

Taste-testing an abundance of whiskeys

“West” meant the liquid was mostly water,

and rums lead Daric to hone his palette

and its strength increased moving coun-

Make” is Van Brunt’s version of an

and perfect his craft.

ter-clockwise. Daric explained, “When

American classic. Daric explained that,

Daric’s vision was officially brought to

the ship was headed for poor weather

“In the 19th Century, New York was

life in January of 2012. Only four blocks

or battle, the Captain would ration out

producing more moonshine than the

from his home in the quaint, waterfront

pure rum, which came to be known as

south.” Van Brunt Stillhouse is honor-

Red Hook community, a former paint fac-

‘Due North.’” The historical name isn’t its

ing that tradition with an impressive

tory provided the perfect location to create

only unique element. The custom-made

small-batch moonshine of their own.

and house the delectable spirits.

labels are adorned with a fictional sea

The lack of oak aging brings forth the

character as described by a sailor upon

bold grain flavor enhanced by a caramel

Although still being in its infancy,

PAGE 52 | MicroShiner.com

The youngest of the bunch, “New

Autumn 2013

PAGE 54 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn 2013

PAGE 58 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn 2013

bouquet and finish.

Van Brunt American Whiskey of-

fers a unique grain bill that defies a traditional category. Equal parts barley and wheat are supported by corn and a touch of rye to create a complex yet smooth delicacy. After spending six months in charred oak casks, the full-bodied spirit offers distinctive wood flavors complemented by caramel notes and dashes of vanilla and coconut.

In collaboration with Brooklyn’s Six

Point Brewery, Van Brunt’s Malt Whiskey is created from 100% malted barley. Matured for nine months, it offers an impressive complexity for such a young spirit. A lover of Belgium beers, Daric wanted to create a malted whiskey that infused those fruity esters. Fresh floral aromas greet the nose, followed by delicate oak accented with clove, barley, nectar, and a spicy rye finish.

Grappa is a rare find in Brook-

lyn. Fruity and floral on the nose, the robust, tannic, and mouthwatering spirit uses grape skins from Brooklyn Winery to create a locally produced grappa.

Van Brunt Stillhouse’s hand-craft-

ed approach allows for experimentation with its products. Daric offered a sneak peek into his newest exciting creations for the upcoming holiday season. Produced with organic New York State corn and malted barley, Van Brunt Bourbon oozes with notes of cinnamon and spice; a necessity for any holiday menu. Also being introduced to the Van Brunt family is a single barrel 100% malted Canadian rye. The elixir is aged twelve months and tastes of chocolate and coffee, another delight for the holidays.

Utilizing

small-batch

production

techniques and a hands on, local approach, Van Brunt Stillhouse is making their own mark in both history and craft culture. Look for their high quality, artisanal spirits throughout New York, as well as the states of New Jersey, Connecticut, and California in the future.

PAGE 60 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn 2013

^ ABOVE A worker at Van Brunt Stillhouse gives us a sneak peak on their newest upcoming holiday creations flavored with cinnamon, spice, chocolate, and coffee.

UTILIZING SMALLBATCH PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES AND A HANDS ON, LOCAL APPROACH, VAN BRUNT STILLHOUSE IS MAKING THEIR OWN MARK IN BOTH HISTORY AND CRAFT CULTURE. PAGE 62 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn 2013

The Wyoming Whiskey Barons Written by Nels Wroe Photography by Luc Nadeau he main character in Owen

a light jacket. While no one would envi-

Wister’s famous western novel

sion him atop a saddle driving cattle, he

The Virginian has found a new

would glide effortlessly into a drift boat on

incarnation. Steve Nally, Mas-

the Big Horn River with a fly rod in hand.

ter Distiller at Wyoming Whiskey saunters

“We’re both in good hands with Steve,” he

over to greet us, boots crunching in the

grins. “A lot of what I do here comes down

gravel parking lot. A tall, lanky southern

to luck, where everything Steve does is all

gentleman, Nally is both at odds with and

about experience.”

at home among the red rock hills of cen-

tral Wyoming. Like Wister’s iconic charac-

earlier this morning in Thermopolis,

ter, he harkens from the south – Nally is a

Wyoming, approximately 15 miles south

native Kentuckian – but has chiseled out

of the distillery. DeFazio suggested we

a home for himself in the hard Wyoming

meet at the Black Bear Café, an easy sell

landscape just outside Thermopolis.

given his advice that it is one of the few

He is disarming at first, his quiet

places in Hot Springs County where you

southern drawl sometimes hard to hear

can get a good cup of coffee. He was al-

amidst the noise coming from the distill-

ready at the counter when I arrived, deft-

ery operations in the background. Nally

ly jumping from one conversation to the

has been in Wyoming for almost five

next as the patrons and staff greeted him

years, lured out of retirement from the

with smiles, hugs or handshakes at every

helm of the still at Maker’s Mark by Da-

break in the conversation. Almost without

vid Defazio, the COO of Wyoming Whis-

asking, large cups of piping hot coffee ap-

key. But despite the change in venue, this

peared along with our breakfast to go in

charming Southerner is clearly in his el-

hefty containers.

ement. “It’s a pleasure to meet you,” he

says with a firm handshake. “Welcome to

Ozzy, out of the back seat for a pit stop

Wyoming Whiskey.”

before we head north on State Highway

The Wyoming Whiskey tour began

DeFazio briefly lets his coal-black lab,

Defazio is also a transplant, relocating

20 towards Kirby. Kirby is a small town of

in the mid-1990’s from New York to Jack-

no more than 75 full-time residents, nes-

son Hole, Wyoming. He is the New West in

tled along a bend in the Big Horn River.

every aspect, effortlessly achieving what

Before Wyoming Whiskey arrived, Kir-

most first-generation westerners strive for

by was known as the home to Butch’s

but never achieve – full acceptance into

Place, a favorite spot to belly up to the

the Wyoming family. He’s wearing a new

bar and enjoy solid, home-cooked burg-

classic – a western snap shirt re-imag-

ers and steaks. Not much has changed –

ined for the modern era – blue jeans and

Butch’s Place still serves up mighty fine

PAGE 66 | MicroShiner.com

The distillery released approximately 3,000 cases for retail sale. It took just under 3 minutes before the state’s online ordering system crashed due to the volume of orders it was trying to process.

BELOW Steve Nally, Wyoming Whiskey’s Master Distiller, oversees the whole fermentation process—the corn, wheat, and barley is all grown right in their backyard.

buffalo burgers – until you look east to-

lot, we entered the building through the

us to follow him up the gray steel stairs to

wards the river. The distillery’s tall tower

main doors and stepped into the heart

the second floor, briefing us on the opera-

stands in sharp relief against the rocky

of the distillery. The towering Vendome-

tions as we went. “This was the opportu-

red cliffs of the Owl Creek Mountains,

designed column still greets us in all its

nity of a lifetime for me,” he comments.

home to some of the most spectacu-

glory, reaching up more than two stories

“I’ll probably never again get the chance

lar geological formations in the Western

into the distillery’s main hall. There is lit-

to design something completely the way I

United States. Flanked on either side

tle else in the room, and little else is war-

want it, from the ground up.”

by open hay and grain fields, the struc-

ranted – the copper and brass still is a

ture is by design reminiscent of the

work of art that commands attention. We

from the truth. Virtually every piece of

iconic grain silos that dot the landscape

paused for a moment, just long enough for

this distillery has been designed, ap-

throughout the country.

DeFazio to ask “Not bad, eh?” An under-

proved, inspected, or modified by Nally.

statement like no other. Nally gestured for

From fundamental design changes, such

After meeting Nally in the parking

PAGE 70 | MicroShiner.com

DeFazio confirms that this isn’t far

Autumn 2013 RIGHT > Wyoming Whisky’s Master Distiller Steve Nally (right), lurred out of retirement from Maker’s Mark by COO David Defazio (left) with his beloved coal-black lab, Ozzy.

Everything fell into place for us – from the

team made at every point in the distillery

Mead family’s decision to build a distill-

design. One of the first things that many

ery, to the way the Wyoming community

people ask is “Why here?” After all, Kirby

rallied around us to make this possible,

is, to put it bluntly, in the middle of no-

to the thousands of small things along the

where. Thermopolis is the closest large

way that led to this point. But Steve is the

town, home to just over 3,000 people.

one that made it work.”

Visitors must travel more than 100 miles

Nally is such the gentleman that he

in any direction to reach a population

doesn’t even hesitate to deflect the credit

density of any merit, the closest being

as the modifications to the layout of the

just given him by DeFazio. “It comes down

Casper 150 miles to the south. Billings,

fermenter tanks to operate on a center

to a lot of people and a lot of work,” he

Montana, the center of commerce in the

pivot structure to the selection of every

notes. “I want to craft a product that we

region, is almost 200 miles in the other

team member, he has spent the past four

can control at every step of the way. It

direction, and good luck heading east

years building a distillery that has the

hasn’t been without its challenges, but

or west – you’ll find yourself either in in

capability to produce some of the finest

that’s part of the reward.”

the vast openness of the Thunder Basin

hand-crafted whiskeys in the country.

Both DeFazio and Nally were dedi-

National Grasslands or the mountains

“When we brought Steve into the fam-

cated to one overriding vision – to craft

and pines of the Shoshone National For-

ily, we had a design and a vision, but we

a whiskey that is true to Wyoming in all

est. For an upstart distillery looking

had no idea how to build a distillery,” De-

aspects. This went beyond company mis-

to build a market, this does not seem

Fazio reflects. “I joked earlier about how

sions and vision statements, shaping

a logical choice.

lucky we were – that is really not a joke.

the decisions that the Wyoming Whiskey

DeFazio has a very different take on

PAGE 72 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn 2013

this point. “We are crafting something that

askew glance, and chuckled. “I mean

is true to Wyoming. We could have easily

that all our spent grains go right back to

cation has been fortuitous. Unlike the

picked another location. Maybe the whis-

local farms and ranches. The cattle love

southern climes, where humidity and

key would be as good? Maybe, but I doubt

this stuff.”

temperatures are higher but typically fall

it,” he said, pointing out that the Big Horn

We walk back through the distillery,

within a limited range, the Wyoming cli-

Basin has everything they need to create a

passing the equipment room where the

mate leans towards extremes. From bitter

world-class product. “We have ownership

steam generator, pumps, and other equip-

cold temperatures in the winter that can

of almost everything that goes into our

ment were creating a racket that made it

hit minus 30 degrees Fahrenheit, to sum-

barrels from the point of origination.”

hard to carry on a conversation. Nally had

mer temperature that top out above 100

It all starts with the water. Wyoming

peeled off from the tour to take a press-

degrees, Wyoming Whiskey uses the gra-

Whiskey sits atop the Madison Formation,

ing phone call, so I follow DeFazio out-

dient as a tool in their toolkit. As it turns

a massive underground aquifer more than

side into the brilliant Wyoming sunshine.

out, these massive temperature swings

a mile below the surface of the prairie. This

“I swear, I learn from Steve every day. I

keep the convection currents inside the

water source is one of the highest yielding

can tell you a lot of the details, but most

barrels constantly in motion, a significant

aquifers in the country. More importantly,

of them are learned from him. So until

benefit to the aging process.

it may be one of the purest, highest qual-

we get him back, I want to show you one

ity water sources available. In fact, the

of my favorite places,” he says, keys jin-

it turns out that Mother Nature herself

water from the aquifer can be so pure that

gling in his hand. We stop in front of a

helps us out a bit,” says Nally, rejoining

treating the water is unnecessary in many

large warehouse, and he unlocks the steel

us. The constant movement of the bour-

cases. “Water is fundamental to the qual-

doors, stepping back to let me past.

bon in the barrels means more of the liq-

ity of our whiskey. It’s fundamental to any

Coming from the sunshine into the

uid comes in contact with the charcoal

distillery,” DeFazio noted. “Add to this, all

darkness of the warehouse meant we had

and wood, expediting the aging process.

our grains are produced right here – the

to give our eyes a few seconds to adjust.

“Comparatively, we’re seeing a 6-month

corn, wheat, and barley we use are grown

But it was the rich, earthy aroma of wood

gain, maybe more.”

right here, right out our door.”

and bourbon that hit the senses first –

At this point in the tour, we are

and as our eyes caught up to our noses,

teeth waiting for more of Wyoming Whis-

standing on the platform outside the main

the whole of the rack house came into

key to make it into the bottle. It seems the

building, looking north across the fields.

view. Wyoming Whiskey has more than

entire state is poised and waiting, ready to

The grain silos are in the distance at the

1,000 barrels laid up, roughly a quarter

snap up any bottles that manage to make

edge of the property, a leisurely 10-minute

of their potential volume. “I admit, this is

it onto shelves. The inaugural bottling

walk across the fields. The beer well stood

where my patience gets tested,” DeFazio

was launched to the public last Decem-

beneath us as we peered over the railing,

grudgingly admits. “I keep telling Steve,

ber, and the response was overwhelming.

and a few tanker trucks parked nearby,

‘c’mon, it’s gotta be ready now.’ That’s

The distillery hosted an invite-only launch

one partially full. “That’s for the cattle,”

when he looks me in the eye and says

event at the distillery, choosing to

DeFazio says. He caught my slightly

‘Nope. Not yet.’”

host the party out-

PAGE 76 | MicroShiner.com

Here, yet again, the distillery’s lo-

“I’m not going to rush anything. But

DeFazio isn’t the only one gritting his

Autumn 2013

One of the first things that many people ask is

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;WHY HERE?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; After all, Kirby is, to put it bluntly, in the middle of nowhere.

Thermopolis is the closest large town, home to just over 3,000 people. Visitors must travel more than 100 miles in any direction to reach a population density of any merit.

PAGE 78 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn 2013

side – a big risk given that December in

more than 3,000 people showed up to

humbling. That was the moment when I

Wyoming can be bitterly cold.

get a first taste.”

thought maybe we had done things right.”

“It was incredible – a perfect De-

Let’s put this in context for a

The momentum didn’t stop there.

cember day. We couldn’t have asked for

moment: Total population in the nearest

Like many other states, Wyoming is a

one better,” remembers DeFazio. “The

large town (Thermopolis) a mere 3,009

control state. Liquor is distributed to the

only thing we didn’t – couldn’t – plan

people according to the 2010 census.

retail outlets through the Wyoming Liquor

for was the turnout. We invited just over

Early December in Wyoming. Over 3,000

Division, and each retailer places orders

1,500 guests, and we estimated that

in attendance. DeFazio grins. “Yeah. It was

through the state liquor commission’s or-

Family roots run deep here, & that includes the Meads, founding family behind Wyoming Whiskey. ‘The Meads are Wyoming,’ notes DeFazio.

‘Their commitment to the people of this state is unwavering.’

PAGE 80 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn 2013 dering system. The distillery released ap-

family behind Wyoming Whiskey. Brad

prepped and checked prior to their be-

proximately 3,000 cases for retail sale. It

and Kate Mead are 4th generation ranch-

ing filled. Every barrel that goes into the

took just under three minutes before the

ers in the state, and Brad is brother to

warehouse is personally branded and

state’s online ordering system crashed

Matt Mead, current Governor of Wyoming.

signed by a member of the Wyoming

due to the volume of orders it was try-

“The Meads are Wyoming,” notes DeFazio.

Whiskey family. Nally fires up a propane

ing to process. The entire lot of 3,000

“Their commitment to the people of this

torch, and DeFazio brings out a branding

cases was sold in less than five minutes

state is unwavering.“

iron that they heat up in the flame. Once

(once the dust settled and the system was

Nally and DeFazio point out that the

the iron is ready, Nally dons thick leather

brought back online).

stronger the ties, the more likely someone

work gloves and skillfully plants the hot

For folks that know and love Wyo-

will tell you straight up if you’re doing

iron onto the end of a barrel. Smoke and

ming, this doesn’t come as much of a

something they don’t think is right. Judg-

flames engulf the iron as the brand is

surprise. Wyoming has a tendency to get

ing by the reactions and reviews that keep

seared into the oak. He finishes the job by

into your blood – or, more specifically, it’s

pouring in, Wyoming Whiskey is living up

signing his name next to the brand.

the people of Wyoming that create this

to its namesake’s standards.

connection. Family roots run deep here,

me the gloves. “Make sure you do it right.

and that includes the Meads, founding

back. This is where the new barrels are

The final stop on the tour is around

“You ready?” asks DeFazio, handing

‘Cause your name is going on this one.”

RUSTIC CAMPFIRE BREAD This is a classic crusty loaf bread that can be baked in a cast iron pan or Dutch oven. If you are cooking over a fire, make sure you have a base of hot coals for both the bottom and top of the oven. If you are using a pan without feet, elevate the pan above the coals using a few well-placed stones.

The Bighorn River that runs through central Wyoming is one of the premier trout rivers in the country. It is a classic dry fly river that can be fished yearround; rarely does the river freeze over in winter. Anglers land stunning Rainbow, Brown, and Yellowstone Cutthroat trout on the wide, meandering waterway. The river inspires these recipes, and while written for openfire cooking, they can easily be prepared in the comfort of your kitchen.

PAGE 82 | MicroShiner.com Recipes were developed and tested by the MicroShiner team (Nels Wroe and Chris Bybee, Executive Chef, InHarvest)

Autumn 2013

Ingredients 4 Cups

FLOUR

2 Teaspoons

SALT

2 ¼ Teaspoons

ACTIVE DRY YEAST

1 ½ - 2 Cups

WATER, room temperature

Directions

1.

Combine flour, salt and

6.

yeast into a large bowl.

2.

Make a well in the center and add the water.

3.

By hand: mix together and continue mixing/kneading for 10+ minutes until

7.

the dough is smooth and

Transfer to a large, oiled bowl. Cover with a cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled, usually about

5.

2 hours.

fire. You should plan to have plenty of hot coals as a

shape into a round loaf that

base fire. Hardwood is ideal; it burns hotter and longer,

will fit into your Dutch oven

making it easier to regulate temperature.

or pan. (This recipe is sized

for a 12” round oven, so

the final rise, clear out space in the coals for the oven.

adjust the size of the loaf to

Nestle the oven on top of the hot coals, leaving at least

fit your pan.)

2/3 of the coals to the side. Once your oven is in place,

Place the loaf in your oven/ pan and score the top with

½ inch deep.

8.

When the fire is ready and the loaf has completed

carefully place the remaining hot coals on the lid of the

crescent cut approximately

dough hook, mix on low

4.

Punch down the dough and

a sharp knife with a long

elastic. By mixer: using a speed for 10–12 minutes.

While you are waiting for the final rise, prepare your

oven. The top coals are critical for proper baking, and you’ll need more on top than on the bottom.

Rotate the pan every 7 – 10 minutes to keep the

temperature evenly distributed. It’s important to monitor the bread when cooking on a fire. Check it periodically, although try to avoid opening the lid too often. The baking time is sensitive to your fire temperature. With

Cover the loaf and let rise

a good base of coals, baking time can be as short as 20

in a warm place until

minutes, but can be as long as 45 minutes.

almost doubled, usually

about an hour.

sounding when thumped with a finger. Carefully remove

The loaf is done when it is golden brown and hollow

the loaf from the oven and let cool.

For oven baking, you can either bake a single

Use butter or oil to liberally

round loaf or shape two classic baguette-style loaves.

oil the bottom and sides of

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees and place a shallow

your oven/pan.

pan of water in the bottom of the oven. Bake your loaves directly on the center rack (or use a baking stone if you’ve got one) for approximately 30 minutes.

WILD-CAUGHT TROUT WITH WILD LEEKS AND SAGE We had the luxury of six beautiful fish from the river, a combination of Browns and Rainbows, as well as some foraged wild leeks from a friend who seeks out the pungent roots every summer. If you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have wild leeks, scallions or small white onions work beautifully.

PAGE 84 | MicroShiner.com Recipes were developed and tested by the MicroShiner team (Nels Wroe and Chris Bybee, Executive Chef, InHarvest)

Autumn 2013

Ingredients 4 Whole

FRESH-CAUGHT TROUT

Small Jar

WILD LEEKS, (or 2-3 scallions, finely diced)

4 Tablespoons

SWEET BUTTER, (we used raw milk butter from WiMo Farms)

To Taste

FRESH SAGE, chopped

To Taste

SALT AND PEPPER

Directions

1.

Clean and gut the fish,

4.

leaving the head and tail.

2.

Rinse the fish and pat dry, inside and out.

3.

Season the insides of the fish liberally with pepper and salt. Set aside.

5.

6.

Using the banked coals in your fire, nestle the fish into In a small bowl, combine

the coals. Cooking time will vary, but rotate the fish at

butter, 2 Tbsp. wild leeks

least once during cooking. Check the fish at 10 minutes,

(or diced scallions), and the

but plan for up to 20 minutes cooking time. (Just

sage. Mix thoroughly with

enough time to enjoy a Wyoming Whiskey on the rocks

your fingers.

by the fire.)

Spread the seasoning in the inside of each fish.

Carefully remove the fish from the fire. To eat, peel the skin and pick the meat directly off the bones.

To cook at home: follow the same process, but preheat

Wrap each fish tightly in foil.

your oven to 375 degrees. You can wrap your fish in foil, or place them in a buttered baking dish and cover the dish with foil. Bake for 15 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 20 minutes.

CAMPFIRE-BRAISED ROOT VEGETABLES A simple, often-overlooked method to cook seasonal root vegetables, this recipe brings out the natural sweetness of the vegetables. Use any seasonal root vegetable; we used heirloom carrots and turnips from the local farmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s market.

PAGE 86 | MicroShiner.com Recipes were developed and tested by the MicroShiner team (Nels Wroe and Chris Bybee, Executive Chef, InHarvest)

Autumn 2013

Ingredients 8-12

CARRORS, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths

1-2

TURNIPS, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

2 Tablespoons

BUTTER

To Taste

SALT AND PEPPER

1 Tablespoon

WATER

Directions

1.

2.

Create one or two foil packs of vegetables.

Add a tablespoon of water and 2 tablespoons of

3.

4.

butter to the packet.

5.

To cook at home: Place vegetables in a pan with a Seal the foil tightly and

tight-fitting lid. Add the butter and the water, and

nestle in hot coals. Cooking

braise the vegetables until tender, about 10 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 12

time takes approximately 20

minutes. Remove the lid, and let the remaining

minutes.

liquid evaporate. The butter will caramelize adding to the sweetness of the vegetables.

Carefully open the foil and let it cook in the coals

Sprinkle with salt and

for another 5 minutes, or

pepper to taste.

until most of the liquid has evaporated.

WILD RICE WITH MUSHROOMS AND WYOMING WHISKEY CREAM SAUCE We used a mix of locally grown fresh mushrooms, but this recipe shines using almost any variety. This is a great dish for vegetarians â&#x20AC;&#x201C; use a larger percentage of hearty mushrooms, such as portabellas, to create a satisfying main course.

PAGE 88 | MicroShiner.com Recipes were developed and tested by the MicroShiner team (Nels Wroe and Chris Bybee, Executive Chef, InHarvest)

Autumn 2013

Ingredients ½-1 pound

MUSHROOMS, fresh and coarsely chopped

~1

ONION, large (or 3-4 shallots, chopped)

1 Cup

WYOMING WHISKEY

¼-½ Cup

HEAVY CREAM

1-2 Teaspoons

BALSAMIC VINEGAR, (we use Coldani Olive Ranch’s barrel-aged)

As Needed

BUTTER

To Taste

SALT AND PEPPER

Directions

1.

2.

Heat butter in a saucepan, add onion.

3.

Add the chopped

4.

Add the whiskey and cook

6.

Remove from heat

mushrooms and sauté

until most of the liquid

and stir in 1 – 2 tsp.

until the mushrooms are

has evaporated.

balsamic vinegar.

Sauté the onion over

just beginning to brown

medium high heat until

and most of the moisture

it is just beginning to

has evaporated. Reduce

brown around the edges.

heat to medium.

5.

Add the cream and cook, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened.

7.

Serve over wild rice.

A

Repurposed

Life Written by

Photography by

Nels Wroe

Luc Nadeau

PAGE 94 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn 2013

rtistry can be anywhere, even in

kids that are playing in the front yard.

the Denver Broncos helped a bit too.”

places one might least expect. The

He greets us warmly, and after a quick

winding streets of suburban Colo-

introduction he casually guides us to the

as the garage door lifts and Toby’s crafts-

rado Springs, Colorado could be almost

driveway and disappears into the house to

manship is unveiled. Several pieces are in

any city – newer, single family homes

open up his workshop.

process, including a creatively-designed

with neatly-kept yards, kids playing bas-

Toby is the craftsman behind Used

pub table in Broncos’ orange and blue. He

ketball, friendly folks strolling along the

Oak Wine Barrels, a small workshop that

shows us a completed table in his base-

sidewalks. It’s at least comfortable, if not

repurposes the wood from barrels past

ment, fully decked out in homage to Den-

particularly inspiring.

their useful life at wineries and distill-

ver’s home team. His artistic sense of style

Toby Sannar is a recent transplant

eries. It wasn’t part of any grand plan to

and solid understanding of practical de-

to this neighborhood. He meets us out in

create a business; to the contrary, Toby

sign are apparent in the heirloom-quality

front of his house, stepping around his

jokes that “the business found me. And

piece on display.

PAGE 96 | MicroShiner.com

The link to the Broncos becomes clear

Autumn 2013

KNOWING THAT TOBY WAS NATURALLY SKILLED, A CLOSE FRIEND SUGGESTED HE TRY DOING OAK BARREL CRAFTS AS A CREATIVE DISTRACTION. LITTLE DID ANYONE KNOW WHERE IT WOULD LEAD.

“The original table was a bit differ-

had been having odd health problems for

ent than this version. Each one is unique,

a few years. At first, I thought it was just

and that’s what I enjoy about these

related to the physical stresses of the job,

projects. I’m always experimenting or im-

but turns out it was MS,” Toby explained.

proving my designs.”

Toby is a relative newcomer to Colo-

the family decided it was time to make a

rado. He moved his family from Portland,

fresh start. They had family in Colorado

leaving a stable but physically demanding

Springs, and his wife had a great job op-

job working for the county road mainte-

portunity. “So we picked up and moved.

nance crew. He made the move after what

It was a change for me, for sure. It has

could have been a life-changing event – he

been a great opportunity for me to be a

was diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis. “I

dad – but at some point, I felt I had to

RIGHT > Toby drils away while hard at work in his small workshop using his skills to repurpose used oak wine barrels.

When the diagnosis came through,

do something to help out with the family finances,” he said with a smile.

Knowing that Toby was naturally

skilled, a close friend suggested he try doing oak barrel crafts as a creative distraction. Little did anyone know where it would lead. Toby created his prototype pub table, selling the first one as his contribution to the family budget. Word spread, and soon he was contacted by a small gift shop and gallery to create handmade wine racks, the start of commissioned projects that keep his garage shop humming with activity.

Toby is a natural teacher, in his com-

fort zone when sharing his techniques with others. He dons safety glasses and fires up equipment to show how he crafts the different pieces. Each barrel is unique – color, grain, condition – and he experiments with different finishes to bring out the characteristics from the wood.

The rich, purple patina that comes from long-aged cabernet barrels may lead him to use a teak oil finish while the subtler, woodsier tones from bourbon barrels warrant a wood stain to bring out the texture of the grain.

Toby’s warmth radiates into all the

pieces he creates, and it also plays out in his commission work. “It’s a lot of fun to create something that is not only unique, but includes the customer’s input and style,” he notes proudly. “I do a lot of customization and experimentation to get it exactly the way a customer wants.”

To view more of Toby’s pieces, visit

www.usedoakwinebarrels.com. If you want to see Toby in action and learn how to build his popular oak stave occasional table – check out his instructional videos on YouTube:

http://www.youtube/zrbGJZrdr-w

PAGE 100 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn 2013