World Travel Magazine June July 2017

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WORLD

TRAVEL MAGAZINE

THE

100 LIST Best Hotels in the World

A Taste of

Ticino Five Days of

Dolce Vita Swiss-Style

Majestic Monsoon India’s Seductive Spectacles Beckon

Singapore S$8 Malaysia RM 20 Thailand THB 200 Indonesia IDR 75,000 June/July 2017

MCI (P) 023/10/2016 KDN PPS 1858/2/2015(025588)

France’s Summer Secrets

Revealed! Paris, Burgundy, Normandy, Corsica & Provence




Contents

June/July 2017

Features 64

The 100 List

Our 100 List features the finest and some of the most exclusive hotels and resorts in the world. These properties represent the pinnacles of service, exclusivity and experience. Let luxury welcome you home, no matter where you travel.

France’s Summer Secrets Revealed

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Paris Three-Michelin-starred restaurants and wine shops, to colourful local markets and hidden museums, top chef Raymond Blanc reveals his favourite Parisian haunts.

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A Taste of Ticino

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Middle Earth Luxury: New Zealand

In glorious Ticino, the Mediterranean heart of Switzerland, new meets old in delightfully unexpected ways.

New Zealand’s luxury lodge scene continues to thrill well-heeled travellers, with stunning new properties joining the country’s esteemed favourites.

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Burgundy Burgundy has had a romance for centuries with wine connoisseurs and gourmet food lovers, for good reason. Corsica Corsica isn’t exactly easy to reach, but 100 that’s just part of its charm. A laid-back jaunt through this not-quite-French island.

Normandy It was the simple advent of the 106 railways from Paris to the coast that lead Monet,

Degas, Renoir and Boudin to Normandy and capture the dance of light on canvas. The most leisurely way to see sun112 Provence kissed Provence is on board the Napoleon as it

Old town of Bonifacio, built high on a sea cliff Corsica, France

2 World Travel

Photograph by Thomas Dekiere/Shutterstock

drifts down the River Rhone.


©2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, The Luxury Collection

H O T E L S T H AT D E F I N E T H E D E S T I N AT I O N ™ Nestled among stunning beaches, lush coconut groves, with never-ending views of the emerald-green Phang Nga Bay and idyllic landscapes of the Phuket coastline, The Naka island is an exclusive boutique resort on Naka Yai Island, located just off the Phuket coast with 10 minutes speedboat journey. EXPLORE THE DESTINATION AT THELUXURYCOLLECTION.COM/NAKAISLAND


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Contents

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June/July 2017

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Departments 6 Editor’s Note 12 Just In

Experience a taste of history at the Silo Hotel, Cape Town; Big city views with elegant comfort at 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge; Old Havana comes alive at a new Kempinski hotel; Original cocktails, custom coffee, and indulgent bar snacks at Ralph’s Coffee & Bar; Ducasse’s Michelin star restaurant matches the glitter in the city of lights; Moroccan traditions blend with modern amenities at L’Hôtel Marrakech; The beauty of Japan aboard two new luxury trains Shiki-Shima & Mizukaze; A recently refurbished Graffiti-esque hotel experience within J Plus Hong Kong; Connecting luxurious jewellery with traditional Japanese craft at the “Master of an Art” exhibition in Kyoto; Recently reopened, Hotel Eden is a splendid sight in Rome; Immerse yourself in African culture at Nyungwe House, Rwanda.

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Inspire Me

Global Wedding Style, we curate five luxury destination wedding inspirations, aligned with this season’s essential bridal trends and the luxury brands that you need to know.

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Where to Stay

Taveuni Palms Resort on Fiji’s Taveuni Island, an indulgent, romantic retreat; Heritage chic at Singapore’s new boutique Warehouse Hotel; Timeless promise of luxury with 137 Pillars Hotel & Resorts.

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Insider

Wonderlust is incurable, so says Morad Tayebi, Regional Director of Atout France. Here is his definition of luxury, French wine and travels!

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Style File

Timeless Style, With A Retro Twist

This season, pull inspiration from eras you enjoy into your collections, hotels and destinations. It’s the retro reference that enhances the timelessness of the luxury wardrobe.

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Monsoon Breaks

Monsoon palaces, waterfalls and wildlife must-see spots in India.

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Short Breaks

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At Leisure

Saigon: The Elegant Lady of Indochina Saigon is on a constant journey of refinement which brings a sense of endless possibility in it’s unexpected novelties and traditional charms.

Drive Switzerland Alpine delights, epic scenery and the most beautiful driving roads in Europe calls for a grand tour and serious wheels.


AFRICA

ASIA

EUROPE

L AT I N A M E R I C A

MIDDLE EAST

NORTH AMERICA

Elevate Your

Meeting Experience. Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal, offering a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless meeting experience. 1,608 LUXURIOUS GUEST ROOMS AND SUITES 8,000 SQM OF SPECTACULAR INDOOR AND OUTDOOR EVENT SPACE 2 CUTTING-EDGE AUDIOVISUAL EQUIPPED BALLROOMS AND 32 MODERN MULTI-USE MEETING ROOMS 14 AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANTS AND LOUNGES SARAY SPA FEATURING TRADITIONAL HAMMAMS, A DEAD SEA FLOATATION POOL AND A HEALTH CLUB

Book your next meeting now and call +971 4 414 2000 or email jwmarquis.dubai@marriott.com

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | @JWDubaiMarquis | JWMarriottMarquisDubai


The 100 List 2017 Singita Sweni Lodge

Editor’s Note

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uxury in hospitality is not about perceived brand image, premium price tag, a big building to moot and a grand lobby decked out to awe. Luxury in this industry originates from the elements of intelligent-discrete service, unique experiences to make the stay memorable and stand out (on Facebook at the very least!), seamless transition from transit to sojourn, cuisine that is authentic, and above all else, comfort. Comfort in style and elegance. This fundamental understanding, however, seems to have strayed from its mark as marketers, overnight/online influencers, travel agents, and of late, online travel booking sites fall over each other, handing out 5-star rating and two thumbs up for almost anything that has a bed. Agents project their luxury offers on photoshopped appearance and lists of reviews as fool-proof evidence of their product’s luxury, almost always assuming rightly that readers are unsuspecting of review-generating farms of online profiles in the thousands, trading reviews for cents to the dollar to create and push this illusion until a new ‘luxury’ property comes along. A mega brand luxury property whose name inspires utopia in itself, along the banks of a major river in the heart of a major tourist city in Asia struggles to explain to me the nearest/easiest way to cross the river, which most tourists cross every hour, to reach a famous restaurant on the other side; another staff gets annoyed when asked to repeat the food options served in the five restaurants; during dinner, a server flashes two sweet smiles and then insists that I use my smartphone to log-in, right away, to a website with my room number as id and rate her service, naming her specifically in my feedback; another night the property’s famous Italian restaurant has the audacity to rush me through my sub-par meal! Oh Dear, I’m sorry to have annoyed you. I paid luxury price for this. Same city, different property, it’s a soft launch, smaller setup with far fewer rooms. Their restaurant is topnotch, as were those in the earlier property. After ordering drinks, the family realise that vegetarian options are limited to nought. Fret not. The chef cooks up two amazing vegetarian starters. Best meal in months! Such luxury goes beyond rating. It can only be appreciated when experienced. This epiphany brings me to the edition’s The 100 List at hand, the essential roll-call of the most luxurious properties around to be experienced. A year’s worth of research, review, analysis, feedback and scrutiny has been employed into crafting this edition’s The 100 List. This annual compilation took its first step with an initial draft list comprising of over 2,000 names, all elegant and noteworthy. Over the many months, this harvest distilled to just 100 names which proudly grace these pages. The essence of our 100 List is finding the pinnacles of intelligent service, exclusivity, accommodation, cuisine and experience. Let luxury welcome you home here in The 100 List, no matter where you travel. In case you were wondering, the famous restaurant on the other side of the river is Thiptara, Peninsula Bangkok’s Thai restaurant by the riverside; amazing cuisine, the courtyard perfumed by Frangipani and the staff is very attentive. In my next visit, I am coming here again to eat, and stay.

SHEETAL RASTOGI EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

editor@wtravelmagazine.com

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Discover our exclusive experiences to know the true

beauty of Barcelona

Cotton House Hotel Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 670 - 08010 Barcelona www.hotelcottonhouse.com Booking + 34 - 93 450 50 45


JUST IN Latest in Luxury Experiences

Cape Town, New York, Havana, London, Paris, Marrakech, Japan, Hong Kong, Kyoto, Rome,Rwanda

From top, Magnificent views of Table Mountain, Lion’s Head and Signal Hill from Silo Hotel’s Delux Suite; Willaston Bar’s colourful & eclectic interiors

A Glimpse of Cape Town Culture

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owering high above Cape Town, the new Silo Hotel gives guests the opportunity to spend the night in a historic and culturally significant structure while enjoying all the luxuries of an exclusive resort. The “Mother City” of Cape Town is known for its vibrant food and wine scene, diverse cultures, and stunning landscapes – all of which are showcased in the Silo Hotel. Constructed in the grain elevator portion of the silo complex, the hotel comprises 28 rooms individually designed by Liz Biden to highlight the unique architecture of the structure. Guests will be able to indulge in spa treatments, enjoy a view of Table Mountain while sipping an afternoon tea, swim in a glass pool, or relax on the roof with a glass of champagne – or, head out to see all that Cape Town has to offer before returning to your private room to watch the sunset over the harbour. The Silo Hotel will be opening in September 2017, along with the adjacent Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa – a modern art museum located just below the silo. Private tours will be offered for guests of the hotel. CHRISTINE LEE

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Indulge with a stay in

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From top, Hotel Brooklyn Bridge room hammock with a view; Lobby group table

Brooklyn

ucked away in one of Brooklyn’s trendiest areas, the new 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge provides spectacular views of the expansive Manhattan skyline and the stunning East River – alongside modern, convenient amenities. The property is thoughtfully designed by local artists, showcasing reclaimed materials like wood and industrial steel with native greenery to enhance the hotel’s organic, natural style. The 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge’s proximity to Manhattan makes it easy to get around and explore the city, but you don’t even have to leave the property to make the most of your holiday. In the summer, enjoy a dip in the rooftop pool or just relax with a handcrafted cocktail. This fall, the hotel will open a brand new spa, featuring a variety of holistic, restorative treatments. Instead of venturing into the city for dinner, guests can indulge in local, artisanal cuisine on site – from a Brooklyn-inspired menu at the 10th Floor Lounge to fresh botanicals and seasonally foraged ingredients at the Lobby Lounge. You can even pick up fruit and snacks from the farmstand. Bring your pets for a weekend stay at 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge –beds and bowls are provided for furry friends. RACHEL OWENS

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INSPIRE ME

‘Elope with your loved one to Ranch at Rock Creek Montana.’

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D Global Wedding Style BY ANNABEL KERMAN

Destination weddings are big

business. The appeal of tying the knot somewhere exclusive and unusual is naturally attractive in an age where travel is the norm. But while there are options to fit every budget, the appeal of the high-end destination wedding is that literally, anything is possible. Sailing around the islands of French Polynesia? Tick. On an African cliffside with wild zebra as your wedding guests? Just a touch of a button can make it happen. With wedding planners on standby to fulfil your every whim, the stress is taken out of those pesky logistics. You just need to turn up and look the part. This is where things get interesting. The bar is set so high with destination and production that your wedding style must be similarly on point. Styling to suit your location becomes essential. We have curated five luxury destination wedding venues, all united by high luxe status, but each very different in terms of style, and aligned them with this season’s essential bridal trends, and the luxury brands you need to know. Now that’s what we call wedding planning.

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R INSPIRE ME

Pastel omance

AT AMAN SVETI STEFAN MONTENEGRO The restored village and seaside retreat of Sveti Stefan is attached to the mainland by a narrow isthmus, across the bay from former royal residence villa Milocer, and the whole area, including two kilometres of pastel pink beaches comprises Aman Sveti Stefan. An idyllic wedding venue, the resort can be booked exclusively, with restored rooms, cottages and suites on the island and Villa MiloÄ?er on the coastline. A dedicated team assists in every aspect of the wedding: ceremonies can be held in various locations, and pre- and post-ceremony celebrations will be arranged at the four restaurants, where local cheeses, meat and freshly-caught seafood feature. For wedding guests, spaces for rejuvenation are dotted across the resort, from the Aman spa to the three pools, Turkish baths and yoga pavilion. And for honeymooners: private dinners, movie nights and double spa treatments are on offer. aman.com/resorts/aman-sveti-stefan

The PASTEL trend is big news in bridal wear and aligns neatly with the pink beaches and turquoise sea of Aman Sveti Stefan. For her, 3D FlORAL EMBELLISHMENT will strike the right note, as will quirky accessories with a nod to the retro. For him think DOUBLE BREASTED suiting in pastel hues, a boater style hat and a pocket retro instant camera to record the day. 26 World Travel


D CLARA BAG SOPHIA WEBSTER

A crystal Minaudière embellished with multicoloured resin beads and crystals.

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Pastel omance

GOWN JASON WU

The collection showed sunny optimism in a statement making tulle dresses with fluorescent floral embroidery.

W BAROQUE EARRINGS CELINE

Drop earrings of cultured pearls, turquoise and gold brass.

SHOE MIU MIU

GROSVENOR JEWELLERY BOX SMYTHSON

Blending retro elements with modern details, this romantic plexiglass shoe is embellished with laminated leather and a vinyl flower.

A luxurious French calfskin jewellery box in three pastel colourways.

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FEATURE 100 LIST 2017

Presidential Apartment, Le Meurice, Paris

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THE

100

LIST Where we stay says a lot about who we are and shapes not only our experiences but our lives. One small encounter sets us on a course of new adventure in business, love, exploration, and can even change the way we see the world. Whether you want to break all the rules in barefoot luxury with adventures tailored to your wild, and not-so wild side; walk down the aisle on a rustic bridge to the music of nature and elegant I dos; or trip the night fantastic in one of the world’s exciting, vital cities. Your search is over. Come home to The 100 List, our editorial choice of best hotels in the world.

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FEATURE 100 LIST 2017

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Burj Al Arab Dubai, UAE

Al Mahara Restaurant, Burj Al Arab Dubai

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The Peninsula Shanghai, China

Breathtaking on The Bund. Known worldwide for its exceptional service and luxury accommodations The Peninsula Shanghai is more than a stalwart of luxury, it is a living treasure of extravagance that goes above and beyond your expectations with individualised experiences unmatched in the world. The Peninsula Academy desires to bring you in touch with whatever fascinates. Take your pick from extraordinary experiences––insights on haute couture with trendsetting Chinese fashion designer Lu Kun, a limousine tour of the city’s automobile museum, a private viewing of hot Chinese contemporary art, or let your kids loose to create delicacies at a chocolate factory. Enjoy touring sites around The Bund and later track your journey from Sir Elly’s Terrace, sipping a rare whisky and drinking in the Huangpu River and Pudong skyline below––an epic vista of one of the world’s largest cities. Later, retreat into onestar Michelin recipient Sir Elly’s Restaurant for modern European cuisine served with incredible panoramic views or choose two-star Michelin recipient Yi Long Court where Chef Tang Chi Keung takes classic Chinese cuisine to new heights and prepares decadent Cantonese specialities. The Peninsula constantly pampers. A perfect place to launch your tour of China. shanghai.peninsula. com

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Opulence in an extraordinary land. Luxury beyond compare welcomes you to the land of the extraordinary. Marvel at the opulence of her profile, like a ship at sea––your palace away from home. Dreams begin under the sun by the waters of The Arabian Gulf in extravagant rooms featuring palatial bathtubs, silk canopied beds and the richest of materials. Exquisitely ornate interiors call you to celebrate the bold and beautiful inside yourself. This extraordinary place leaves its mark, you no longer want or need to settle. You are living the dream here and now. Dining won’t do unless you have a wide variety of choices in luxuriously decadent restaurants. Take your pick from nine that create worldwide delicacies––Arabian, European, Far East Asian. It’s not just about eating the best food in the world, but also about absorbing the atmosphere and ambience unlike anything else in the world. This is where the elite go to see and be seen. To have and have more. Talise Spa leaves you breathless at 150 feet above the water and a sauna with a view of the Arabian Sea. The sanctuary of indulgence and pampering features male and female indoor infinity pools with dramatic views of The Gulf. jumeirah.com/en/hotels-resorts/dubai/burj-al-arab

Peninsula Shanghai Astor suite living room with the Bund view


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4 Mirror Lounge at Aman Venice

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Le Meurice Paris, France

Palatial suites and gastronomic works of art. Creativity and design infuse Le Meurice with a legendary flair for the opulent while showcasing its unique brand of hospitality and service. A trip to Paris includes viewing many artistic masterpieces, but at Le Meurice you will get to eat them too. Alain Ducasse, a worldrenowned chef, directs all things delectable. At two Michelin-star restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse, gastronomic dreams become reality in a breathtaking setting that rivals any palace ballroom, inspired by Salon de la Paix at the Château de Versailles. Continue your step back in time in the new Pompadour Suite with palatial decor––a nod to the Marquise de Pompadour. However all things old become new again with the go-to technology discerning travellers can’t live without. The lavish marble bathroom with an extravagant tub adds to the palatial ambience. In case your entourage needs more accommodations, this suite conveniently connects to many other luxury rooms. After a day of touring the city, you’ll enjoy a stop at Bar 228. A local favourite, invaluable head barman William Oliveri, has kept the bar running smoothly since 1978. Afterwards, head to Spa Valmont pour Le Meurice to receive the ultimate in French indulgence a “Touring the Islands of the World” aromatic therapy treatment. dorchestercollection.com/en/paris/le-meurice

Suite interior Belmond Hotel Splendido

Aman Venice Italy Unmatched extravagance, a gold standard in pampering. Of the 188 small islands that create Venice you will not find a more luxurious destination with amenities that rise above most, including a seat in the Aman Private Box at Teatro La Fenice, pairing great works of opera with appetisers before and after your performance––including room-to-curtain boat ride transfers. Enjoy meeting friends in the Mirror Lounge complete with gilded architectural appointments and palatial chandeliers. Or rendezvous in the garden, take a seat on the patio and watch the gondolas sail by. You are not staying in a hotel; you are in a dream. Master Chef Davide Oldani and Chef de Cuisine Andrea Torre combine finds from the Rialto market, as well as soft-shell crabs and razor clams harvested from the lagoon into edible jewels. The ultimate honeymoon destination, the Aman provides the gold standard of pampering and wedding planning that is the envy of every newly married couple. From the moment you arrive in your gondola to the moment you say “I do” and beyond, the staff at Aman cater to all details––from music and entertainment to flowers created by a Venetian specialist to skilled chefs creating your heart’s desire. Your ceremony will reflect all that you hold dear. aman.com/resorts/aman-venice

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Belmond Hotel Splendido Portofino, Italy

First on the bucket list. Get that bucket list out and put this exquisite property at the top. Once in a lifetime, everyone should indulge at the Presidential Suite, the definition of Portofino living. Enjoy large verandas where you can soak in dramatic views of The Bay, Castello Brown, and the charming fishing village. Take your place in history and feel the magic of the ancient village that once inspired so many artistic and literary inhabitants. A spectacular dinner at La Terrazza enchants the senses from Italian culinary masterpieces to magnificent vistas––some of the most dramatic in all of Italy. To be here is to know paradise. Sail around the Gulf of Tigullio on the resort’s private Chris-Craft Corsair 36 that can sail eight. Many fantastic exploration itineraries are available to discover, like sailing to Cinque Terre, a film-inspired road trip tour of Sicily, or cruising to Mallorca. Other luxurious activities include kayaking along the Italian Riviera, shopping in hidden wonders of Genoa, and romantic sunset dinners. Feel the wonder of rejuvenation in the shade of a lush garden as you enjoy a sauna and indulge in elegant, lavish treatments at the Wellness Centre. belmond.com/hotel-splendido-portofino

World Travel 67


Clockwise from top, Cotton House Hotel’s elegant Library; Chandni - the al fresco dining at the Oberoi Udaivilas; Interior Details of La Mamounia; Amilla Fushi Ocean Reef

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A legendary palace of pleasure awaits. Journey across Lake Pichola and disembark to a shower of rose petals upon arrival. The exclusive experience at the palace is for guests only ensuring the tranquillity of the romantic site. Just an hour’s flight from Mumbai, Maharana (ruler) Jagat Singh II of Udaipur built the decadent and impossibly beautiful marble palace over 250 years ago. Exquisite marble, tile, sculpture and fresh flower arrangements overwhelm and surprise. Heritage tours and traditional dance call your attention to experience abundant living. Rose petals and candles lead to your own personal dining room where succulent meals are accompanied by legendary sunsets. Exquisite fine dining features Neel Kamal where you can sit on the floor upon lavish pillows in the traditional manner. Biharo, one of the world’s most romantic rooftop restaurants, takes guests on a journey through India’s legendary cuisine. taj.tajhotels.com/en-in/ taj-lake-palace-udaipur

The art of intimacy & discretion. The romance began in the 12th century when La Mamounia stood protected behind medieval ramparts. Today it’s a marvel of Arabic-Andalusian architecture and pays tribute to the Moroccan master craftsmen, called Maalem, who constructed her. Stroll the Gardens of Enchantment and take a walk back in time. Seek out the vegetable garden where gardeners and chefs gather to share their passions among Borji mint, the famous ingredient in Moroccan tea. Enjoy the ultimate in luxury in your very own Riad––a bastion of exceptional service featuring a patio, terrace, pool and three bedrooms arranged around an open courtyard. A cavalcade of colours, cultures, shapes and textures, the interior features zellige tile work and sculpted wood. Forget the outside world, and enjoy the ultimate in intimacy and discretion. When and if you want to emerge, endless choices exist from a luxurious hammam at the Moroccan Spa to golf excursions. mamounia.com/en

Wild luxury in the American Southwest. Stunning views of windswept canyons inspire your interior landscape as well as the interiors of this spectacular hideaway in America’s Southwest. An otherworldly swim in the cool waters of Amangiri’s dramatic, canyon-hugging pool is just the thing to awaken the senses. This decadently lavish sandstone hotel blends into the timeless beauty of the mesa. Indulge in wild luxury at the Amangiri Suite and view incredible mesa sunsets, enjoy your own private pool and experience stillness found in the canyon on private terraces with fire pits that warm cool desert evenings. The Girijaala Suite provides a grand terrace for the ultimate viewing of the surrounding canyons. The spa evokes the wisdom and healing of the Navajo Nation focusing on the four elements of the earth to provide healing and tranquillity. aman.com/resorts/ amangiri

Taj Lake Palace Udaipur, India

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The Oberoi Udaivilas Udaipur, India

Lavishly explore and indulge in the shadow of history. Your kingdom unfolds in unforgettable majesty on the banks of Lake Pichola. Built in the 15th century, the site incorporates four palaces. The hotel sits on the one-time hunting ground for the Maharana of Mewar and expands over fifty acres––almost half of the property is a wildlife sanctuary. The enchantment begins in the lavish Kohinoor Suite with its own private pool. Enjoy the moat-like pool and stunning views from your spacious 2600 sq. ft. piece of heaven. The hotel’s central blue-tiled pool blazes with flaming torches after spectacular sunsets sparkle the water gold and orange. Explore the many nearby cultural treasures like the Chittor Fort, or the Ranakpur Temples where a 14th century temple honouring the Enlightened One called Chaumukha, is flanked by 66 subsidiary shrines. When exploring turns to indulging, the opulent hotel spa features signature Ayurvedic inspired rituals, the sure cure for modern stressors. oberoihotels.com/hotelsin-udaipur-udaivilas-resort

La Mamounia Marrakesh, Morocco

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Cotton House Hotel Barcelona, Spain

A mystery of history and design. Find Barcelona’s real beauty on display here at the sight of a former 19th-century textile headquarters in the heart of the ancient and modern city. Interior designer Lázaro Rosa-Violán used inspiration from the grandeur of the past to create modern interiors of the hotel. A mystery of history, patterns and materials all culminated in the gorgeous design. A focus on light and colour transformed the formerly dark space with heavy wooden accents into a celebration of the cotton flower––the very textile that created the building itself. The flower inspired the palette, artwork, design, even the smells and delicacies here. Many original details still grace the space like the ceilings with beautiful frescos. Brilliantly illuminated dramatic spiral staircases conjure images of spinning cotton. Royal amenities and gourmet cuisine add to the celebration of the senses. Some suites feature private terrace and luxuriously appointed unique rooms focusing on a oneof-a-kind experience. hotelcottonhouse.com

Amangiri Canyon Point, Utah, USA

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Amilla Fushi Baa Atoll, Maldives

Exquisite private adventures in the Biosphere. At the Baa Atoll, everything is open––open windows and hearts, open sky and water. Acceptance and beauty invite unrivalled, deep bonds with each other as well as nature. Let the outside in. Luxurious private residences make you feel like a celebrity. Your very own Katheeb (butler) service on call 24/7 is designed to anticipate your every need and fulfil every wish. Excursions sample the delights of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in the Baa Atoll including a visit to the legendary Blue Hole––a spectacular underwater odyssey. A visiting heroes program hosts unique, individualised activities to help guests learn more about marine biology and water activities like free diving. The ultimate in luxury and freedom includes chartering from their collection of yachts, super yachts and sailboats in order to experience the enchantment of the Maldives without any restrictions or limitations. amilla.mv

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FEATURE PARIS

RAYMOND BLANC’S PARIS

Photograph by Dmitriy Bryndin /Shutterstock

BY MAX WOOLDRIDGE

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As foodie trips go, this takes some beating. I’m walking around Paris with top French chef Raymond Blanc. From dimly-lit but good-value bistros and top restaurants to profiteroles and chocolate fondants, the Michelinstarred chef is showing me his favourite places in Paris to shop, eat and down a glass or two of wine. We’ve reached Le Marais, the city’s old aristocratic district. We’re wandering around the Marché des Enfants Rouges, the city’s oldest food market in rue de Bretagne. The small market is so-named because it was once an orphanage where all the children dressed in red. No red-clothed youngsters roam here anymore. Nowadays other vivid colours dominate: the market is a riot of flowers, including bouquets of multi-coloured tulips, plump green asparagus spears, shards of pink rhubarb and bulbs of purple artichokes. And then there are delightful sweet and spicy cooking smells coming from endless food stalls serving varied street food, a testament to the city’s vibrant multi-cultural influences. Any pause in conversation, of which there are not many with Raymond Blanc, is filled with the renowned chef fills with his enthusiasm for Paris’s markets. Blanc says he loves to wander around and lose himself in food markets like this whenever he visits Paris. “All of Parisian life is here in a place like this,” Blanc says. He also enthuses about Marché Président Wilson, a fresh food market in the 16th arrondissement. It’s time to go shopping. Food shopping, of course. Nearby, at 93, Boulevard Beaumarchais, we visit one of Blanc’s favoured food shops, an upmarket grocery called Maison Plisson, a bit like Paris’s answer to Whole Foods or Dean & DeLuca. It is packed with local produce and the freshest vegetables. There’s even an entire room dedicated to specialist chocolate. An impressive variety of mushrooms on display sends Blanc into a childhood reverie. Suddenly he tells me about his early years spent in the countryside foraging for honeycombed morel mushrooms. Raymond Blanc was born and raised near Besancon, at the foot of the ragged Jura Mountains in the FrancheComté region between Burgundy and Switzerland. He first visited the French capital when he was 16-years-old. “I didn’t discover Paris until quite late. I was on a trip with my parents,” he recalls. “It was a big occasion and I found it completely mind-blowing. The

From top, Raymond Blanc; local cheese; wine collection Opposite,from top, La Maison Plisson outdoor space; La Maison Plisson fresh vegetables and cheese selection Previous Pages from left, a view of Paris from the Basilique du Sacre Coeur with Eiffel tower on the horizon; a quiet street with restaurants in the bohemian Marais district of Paris

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CORSICA’S ISOLATED, RAMSHACKLE CHARM BY GIULIA PINES

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Phtograph by John Walker/Shutterstock

FEATURE CORSICA


Phtograph by Giulia Pines

You only need to look at a map to understand how difficult it is to reach Corsica, but even that doesn’t truly get at the heart of its isolated charm. Only once you’re on a tiny plane, bearing down on a narrow valley between rocky slopes, eyeing a paper-thin runway as the plane bucks wildly to get into position, do you appreciate just how unlikely it is that you would end up here. When a friend and I zeroed in on the island last summer, it seemed about as remote as the South Pacific. As it turns out, that’s the best thing about Corsica, which may belong to France, but probably wouldn’t call itself French. It’s been happily existing in unofficial semiautonomy, with its own dialect and written language, since long before its most famous son Napoleon Bonaparte was born. It’s worth a day trip to check out one of the diminutive French leader’s old haunts: the dramatic city of Bonifacio, its tangle of peach and white houses, cobblestone streets and eroding trails built atop limestone cliffs. But if you want to see the best of Corsica, better stay out of town. Luckily, a growing list of rental websites has made it easier for small-time property owners to connect with visitors looking for privacy, the thrill of driving up a twisting gravel road to your very own secluded stone cottage. (Gites de France is ideal if you understand French; for everyone else, there’s Boutique Homes.) We found our own slice of rugged paradise 15-minutes’ drive from the nearest town – a bi-level, three-bedroom cottage clinging to the hillside in a village so small it barely had a name. Stone steps led up to a swimming pool with panoramic views of what appeared to be three separate mountain ranges, layered like volumes on a bookshelf, each mistier and more mysterious as it receded into the distance. We arrived just in time for Sunday’s open-air market in Porto-Vecchio. Vendors fanned out from the town’s main square, hawking locally pressed olive oil and homedistilled liqueurs, jars of luscious preserved lemons in golden brine, jams and chutneys and heaps of produce. Weighed down with our finds, we found ourselves hungry, and begged one of the vendors for a tip. He informed us that he was about to make a delivery of lemons to a local restaurant, and we were more than welcome to follow. A short while later, a tiny procession formed: we three with our bags of produce, and he at the front, balancing a crate of citrus on one shoulder as he From top, Dried sausages; aperitifs and flavored sea salts at the market in Porto-Vecchio; the view from our cottage. Opposite page, from top, a classic facade in Bonifacio’s old town; wild onions on the promontory just outside Bonifacio’s old town. Previous Pages from left, sunset over the Old Town of Bonifacio, South Coast of Corsica; aerial view of Santa Giulia beach in Corsica

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FEATURE TICINO

A Taste of Ticino BY ALEXIS MUNIER

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Phtograph by Mihai-Bogdan/Shutterstock

his isn’t the Swi t zerland I know and love. Gone are the snow-carpeted peaks and t idy green meadows speckled wi th dairy cows. Gone are the deep brown larch wood chalets wi th bursts of colourful geraniums at each miniat ure window. Gone as well, the gu t t ural bursts of local Schwiizertüütsch dialect. Chuchichäst li (the test for any foreigner, the nearly unpronounceable word for ki tchen hu tch), becomes, wi th a def t roll of the tongue, credenza. Here, lush yellow mimosas and tall date palms line the shores of cerulean lakes, and ancient stone houses huddle together in t iny mountaintop villages like ants in the rain. There’s laugh ter in the warm, breezy air and the Merlot flows like mother’s milk. Italy? Not a chance. The t rains act ually run on t ime, and the winding cobblestone lanes are unusually t idy. Rather than bumper-to-bumper Fiats beeping a cacophony of horns, I spot t wo Ferraris casually parked on a sidest reet, their owners ei ther very confident or very relaxed. Welcome to Ticino, the Medi terranean heart of Swi t zerland.

This Page, Lavertezzo, a rustic village along the breathtaking Verzasca River (Valley) in Ticino

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Geometric artistry at the Church of Mogno built by architect Mario

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Phtograph by Stefano Ember/Shutterstock

FEATURE TICINO


sweetness of Ticinese coffee reminds me of the Italian brands further south, a world away from the slightly ashen taste of the under-roasted Swiss standard. I walk briskly down the hotel’s stairs, stopping to admire the colourful oversized sculptures that contrast the Art Nouveau ironwork staircase and original stained glass windows. Five minutes later and I’m heading through the bustling Saturday market, a weekly or biweekly tradition in most European towns. But a world away from the markets in German-speaking Switzerland, these energetic gatherings bring staples like miele d’accacia (chestnut honey) and dappled ground polenta as well as shiny purple eggplant and other organic vegetables. Sandwiched in between surprisingly stylish racks of clothes and handmade silver jewellery there are even stands of carved wooden children’s toys and walking sticks. I touch the tallest of the bunch, running the top of my finger over the smooth oak sculpted into a bear’s head. Bears? This area hasn’t seen them in years, which is probably a good thing for hikers like me, for whom the occasional wild boar and poisonous viper seem risky enough. A minute later I arrive at Castelgrande. The first of the castles is located in the town centre on an enormous hill, and to my surprise, an elevator has been carved into the rock. I luck out of the first climb and tour the ramparts and tower, before heading up the large mountain facing Bellinzona and on Castello di Montebello and Sasso Corbaro. After half an hour, I’m at Montebello, which is surrounded by defensive moats and vine after vine of grapes. These vineyards, like 85% of others in Ticino, produce the much-loved Merlot. Hardly known outside the Switzerland, this excellent wine-producing region is just now, like the Lavaux region in Canton Vaud, starting to be recommended in international wine circles. With both white and red varieties, Merlot here benefits from warm days and cool nights, which leaves it slightly less lush and fruity (read: sweet) than its French and American counterparts and pairs beautifully with Ticino’s hearty cuisine. The views from Sasso Corbaro, at nearly 500m up, are stunning. I take a short walk through the museum that displays detailed exhibits into the castle’s history and finish up on the open square. I can now understand why Bellinzona was selected as the canton’s capital. From here, all valleys and main entryways into the region are visible—I look out over past the Riviera Valley and can see Lago Maggiore to the south, beckoning me. Next stop, Locarno. I’m surprised to find that my trip to Lago Maggiore won’t cost me a dime. To celebrate the opening of the Gotthard Base Tunnel, all train and bus travel is free in Ticino until the end of 2017. With the high price of Swiss railway journeys, this can amount to a significant saving to all hotel guests upon presentation of a Ticino Fare card. For the ferries that ply the waters of the two lakes, Lago Maggiore and Lago di Lugano, there are 30% discounts. It’s a balmy 20*C as I board the short train to Locarno. When most of Switzerland is still shrouded under a fog of rain and snow, spring brings blue skies and mild temperatures to Canton Ticino, snuggled at the country’s southern border. As the only Italian-speaking region in a land that overwhelmingly favours German and French, Ticino, like most people south of the Alps, has had it harder than most of Switzerland when it comes to climbing out of historic poverty. Staring at the fashionable lakeside promenades, it’s hard for me to believe that just a few decades ago Ticino was one of the poorest regions of what is one of the richest countries in the world. Today Lugano is a major banking centre, while Ascona and Locarno are thriving resort towns. While it’s sometimes hard to find a real local in these areas, the tourism surge has made Ticino a year-round hub. With everything the city has to offer, it’s no wonder more than 75% of the population lives in these urban areas that spread out over the canton’s main valleys. This means, though, that a 15-minute trip out of town finds you in quiet mountain villages where life moves at a snail’s pace and undisturbed Alpine valleys bring an infinite number of trekking opportunities. Upon arrival at Locarno station, I see a handheld sign which reads Mr Munier and I smile at the driver, who, like many others in a country where Alexis is an exclusively masculine name, did not expect a blonde in fiery lipstick. A short drive later and we arrive at Ascona’s pretty traffic-free main drag. Against a backdrop of mountains and sea, there are just a few small restaurants and a maze of old streets waiting for exploration.

DAY T HREE

I’m not sure I agree with famed local son and world-renown architect Mario Botta, who says World Travel 125


SHORT BREAK SAIGON

SAIGON THE ELEGANT LADY OF INDOCHINA Stylish short city break

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCENT SUNG

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SAIGON IS A THRIVING LADY, BURSTING WITH ENERGY AND HAS MUCH TO OFFER WITH SOMETHING NEW POPPING UP EVERY MONTH

This Page, vintage photos printed on fabric displayed at Saigon Kitch Opposite, a night out at 2 Lam Son (Park Hyatt Saigon)

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SHORT BREAK SAIGON

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From top left, eclectic collections of objects and antiques at Villa Royale Opposite, top row, Park King room at Park Hyatt Saigon; interior items displayed at Authentique home middle row, a selection of home decor and furniture display at Authentique home bottom row, Semi-private booth at 2 Lam Son bar (Park Hyatt); vintage furnitures at Villa Royale

f cities had a gender (masculine/feminine), Saigon would be feminine (‘elle’ or ‘she’) and Hanoi would be rather masculine (‘il’ or ‘he’). Hanoi, Vietnam’s administrative capital could be pictured as a grumpy old man with the conservative seat of the government and tired teachers with foggy glasses in the city renowned for learning and keeping traditions. Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), formerly named Saigon until 1976, is a racier younger lady. A very elegant one, located some 1,100 kilometres away from her ‘husband’. Vietnam has opened up significantly following the Doi Moi policy and economy reforms since 1986, followed by its entry into the World Trade Organization in January 2007. After years of trade, embargoes and marginalisation, the country is reconnecting to the world, thanks in large part to an increased access to the internet. Saigon is nurturing a creative, free-thinking young generation which has designs for its future, while Viet Keu (Vietnamese who lived overseas), are returning, bringing with them money, ideas and skills much needed in the new economy. The largest city in Vietnam, Saigon is a thriving ‘lady’, bursting with energy and has much to offer with something new popping up every month: bars and craft beer houses, industrial style or well-hidden galleries, hipster hostels and renovated luxury hotels. After a smooth luxury Mercedes car transfer from the airport, head to District 1, the obvious choice for its central location and stylish boutiques lining Dong Khoi Street. Check in at Park Hyatt Saigon, a colonial-style hotel, an elegant French ‘lady’. A sanctuary of peace in the middle of frenzy dynamic Saigon, more like a ‘home away from home’. After the completion of extensive renovations during the summer of 2015, Park Hyatt reopened with a fresh new look to redefine its personalised, urban luxury experience. While the hotel maintained the signature French-colonial feel, a palette of white and ivory had brightened the public areas and elegant Park Lounge. Numerous crystal chandeliers have been added, reflecting the sunlight that streams in through the ceiling-height windows. The hotel’s 245 rooms and suites have been completely renovated, refreshed

with lighter tones, handcrafted furniture, Vietnamese textiles and local artwork. Technological upgrades include in-room iPads; Nespresso machines; and a sensor lighting system. The Park Lounge is the rendezvous place to meet and connect discerning travellers with the local Vietnamese haute-society. saigon.park.hyatt.com Start the day with a stroll down the wide boulevards of the city’s main commercial thoroughfare and admire the heady mix of old and new. Walk down Dong Khoi towards the Saigon Opera House, an example of flamboyant French architecture and home to a number of cultural performances. Further away stands the 130-year-old Notre Dame Cathedral, featuring classic neoRomanesque architecture with its red brick façade and stained-glass windows. Opposite the ancient basilica is the Saigon Post Office; though it functions as a modern post office, the magnificent colonial French architecture inside and out will transport you back to French Indochina. Interspersed with these historic marvels are plenty of high-end shopping malls, boutique outlets, a street dedicated entirely to books and, of course, numerous cafés (khafe) brewing aromatic Vietnamese coffee and food stalls offering up the iconic Vietnamese baguettes (banh mie) and steaming bowls of pho. Stylish ladies like to shop for gifts to bring back home, and Authentique home offers a wide selection of fine handcrafted furniture, ceramics and textiles spread across three floors on 113 Le Thanh Ton (D1). authentiquehome.com For ladies who prefer teas and antiques, highly recommended Villa Royale offers a wide TWG tea selection during lunch or high tea, which can be enjoyed along with fresh pastries and selected delights on the menu. While enjoying chit-chat over tea, guests can browse through the luxurious vintage collection, antique furnishings and bric-a-brac displayed thoroughly all over the restaurant, in the hallway, in the semi-private salon and even in the bathrooms. villaroyaletreasures.com Art enthusiasts can continue on Dong Khoy street and head to Galerie Quynh, for a moment of respite. The spacious gallery is housed in a former industrial World Travel 145


A moment alone - almost!


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