Una Magazine June 2014

UNA Magazine June 2014

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Index Editorial Notes Reykjavik, the city to be?

Between the world of myth and elves Selling the nature Living in the streets of Reykjavik

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04 06 08 10 16

x Sex, drugs and marginal groups Minorities in Iceland Photography in Reykjavik Credits

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18 20 28 32

Editorial Notes

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The previous release of UNA magazine in Eskifjordur was successful in many different ways. At the same time it covers parts of local culture but it also offers guidelines for spending your free time in the East. Most importantly, the magazine was published with the close cooperation from our volunteers who made the effort for all those who will come after them.

In this edition however, we have turned the focus back to Reykjavik. With the volunteers being independent, hard working, professional and in general outstanding we can proudly say that this time UNA magazine will be published as a double. The first part has a more serious note, as it covers social problems, minorities, youth and their dreams and similar topics. The second part has a lighter tone and it is mostly about Worldwide friends and all the funny stuff that is going on in the White house. I hope both will create a pleasant experience for the reader.

Jaka

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Reykjavik, the city to be?

By Anni and Julia

Reykjavik is full of young people. The city is very small, but still it has a wild night life and possibilities for high education. We asked young people on the streets in Reykjavik about their future plans and expectations.

1. What do you do?

2. Where do you see yourself in 5 years?

Hjรถrdis (28) is the director of a Museum in Reykjavik. Original she`s from Snรฆfellsness but lives now in Reykjavik. She wants to stay in Iceland and continue working here.

Kristin Halldora Halldorsdottir (23) studies Anthropology in Reykjavik and is going to make an exchange year in Utah. She wants to work in the economic sector in Iceland but before that Kirtsin want to go on a world tour with Herdis.

Herdis Sveinbjรถrnsdottir (22) right now works in a nursing home and is not quite sure what she will study but later definitely wants to work in Iceland with children. Before that she wants to go on a world

Indi (19) is an Art Student of Myndlistaskolinn I Reykjavik, she doesn`t know exactly what she wants to do in the future, but she wants to leave Iceland to live at a sunny place with a beach.

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Jóna Berglinf Stefánsdóttir (25) studies textiles in Myndlistaskólinn in Reykjavik.. She has applied for an internship in a Finnish textile design company called Muovo. In the future she would like to live in Finland or Canada.

Hjálmfridur Bríet (16) and Hanna Lind (16) attend Märta School in Reykjavik.

In five years Bríet would like to study at a university. Lind would like to move to Western Europe, maybe to Germany or Denmark.

Aldis (24) is a fashion design student from Reykjavik. In a few years she wants to have her own brand and live

Anita (28) studies communication and public relations and works at a hostel.

Ester (21) also works at a hostel.

They would both want to move abroad in the future, maybe to Denmark.

Styrmir (18) and Ingolfur (18) study history in Reykjavik. Both want to go abroad to study Art and later they want to come back to Iceland to live there.

Sindri Freyr (19) is a student.

He doesn't know what he will do in five years, but most likely he will stay in Reykjavik.

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With its bizarrely shaped lava fields, extraordinary natural wonders and wild and mystical landscapes, Iceland almost seems to be torn out of the pages of a fairy-tale book.

Th is f ascin at in g country, with just over 300 000 inhabitants, seems to be a very small nation, but according to the Icelandic medieval Sagas and Eddur these are not the only known inhabitants of the Nordic Island. As they tell it麓s also the home of Hulduf贸lk (hidden people), elves, dwarfs, fairies and a lot of other nature spirits.

Because the Icelandic language has remained almost unchanged over centuries, Icelanders are still able to read these thousand year old writings without any problems. And still until today the narratives of friendship and encounter between human, elves and hidden people exist and are told to the Icelandic children since early childhood.

During the centuries these numerous stories not only influenced and affected the Icelandic way of

Between the world of myth and elves -Iceland a land of fairytales thinking and acting towards themselves and their surroundings, it also strengthen the cohesion of the Icelandic culture.

bance or destruction of rocks and mountains where elves and trolls are said to live.

Surprised by this result I want to find

Cu rren t surv ey s show that even today more than 80% of Icelanders do believe in a possible existence of elves.

Also building plans of roads are still rerouted or redesigned to avoid the distur-

out what this is all about, so I decide to take a closer look at this mystical world by attending a crash course in the world`s only Elfschool located at the west of Reykjavik.

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The h ead mast er Magnus H. Skarp hed in sson wh o studied history at the University of Iceland, founded the school 22 years ago. Since he was 11 years old and he heard is grandma talking about the elves and their stories he was passionately fascinated by this subject. Later he turned his passion into his job. Now after more than 30 years of intense research he spoke personally with more than 700 testimonies in over 43 countries about their encounters and ex p erien ce wit h elves, hidden people and other nature beings.

By now more than 8000 people from all over the world have visited the Elfschool.

Excited as well as curious I arrive at the Elfschool and after a warm welcome I get my own little Studybook of Icelandic fairytales and enter into the classroom which appears to be a little cozy living room with hundreds of books and lots of little figures and statues of dwarfs, witches, trolls elves and other weird looking creatures all around the walls.

The

other 8 participants appear to be mostly Canadians aged between 40-70.

The motives for the visit in the Elfschool differ a lot. For some it´s “just another story to be told “about their incredible Iceland vacation, others only come to satisfy their nagging wives and others again are truly persuaded that this kind of magical creatures exist and want to learn more about them.

students and a vivid discussion about the supernatural beings raises, in which all varying viewpoints are hold.

I get to know my classmates better and Glory an 50 year old accountant from Que-

After the break Magnus tells us maybe the most surprising thing of the day.

Also if he is absolutely convinced that elves and other nature beings exist he himself has actually never seen one He

During the first part of the course Magnus, explains us the differences between the several elf types and the other hidden beings. He also tells us about several reports of Icelandic witnesses who have had an personal experience with Elves and hidden people and who came to him to tell their stories.

Magnus emphasizes very seriously that during his carefully conducted interviews with the testimonies he sees himself as a neutral scientist, but contrary to normal scientist he beliefs in his witnesses.

In the little break there is provided coffee and cake for all

bec tells me about her own special meeting with a leprechaun in England and her house where she has established a little room just for fairies.

The vibe is very nice, but it gets obvious that there is a big diversity between the participants opinions about elves and other supernatural things.

explains us that some people are more psychic and more sensitive for that kind of experience than others. During the childhood everybody has a phase in which one is more sensible for such experiences, but the most people loose their sensibility after that phase. But with the help of a psychic 9

friend he was at least able to find out why the elves and hidden people never showed themselves to him and invited him into their world.

“They are afraid that I would ask to many questions, and that I would never leave again ...” he says.

With an arch smile on his face he adds a few seconds later “and that would probably be true “ To make sure that no one will forget this unique experience at the end everybody gets his own Diploma in “ Elfsand Hidden people research “ that confirms that one has finished the course.

With some very insightful new knowledge and very proud of myself and my new received diploma I leave the Elfschool and I wonder, in a world, where plenty of people believe in an invisible god up in heaven who send his son, born by a virgin, down to earth to fulfill wonders and who rose from the dead after three days…, is it really that crazy to believe in elves?

Julia

Selling the Nature

Reykjavik, May 2014.

Having a walk in the city, we’re amazed by the surrounding sea, but also pitiful about the amount of ongoing construction works. There is a vast ocean on the left side, but as soon as you turn around, there are plenty of building sites. The reason why so many tourists come to Iceland is to see the pure nature but those constructions, which are mostly supposed to be for tourists, will actually function against them.

A new popularity Iceland had some severe challenges to overcome, like the 2008 economic crisis and 2010 eruption

of Eyjafjallajökull. However, it was able to recover quickly, partly because of the increasing tourism due to the currency devaluation. The country became slowly a tourist destination thanks to the new affordable prices and the amount of tourists skyrocketed. The number of expected visitors this summer will probably increase by 15 percent compared to 2013 and reach one million, which means six times more tourists than Icelanders.

It was found that these rapidly increased tourists are visiting similar regions of Iceland. Many tourists tend to stay in Reykjavik 10

as a base and have excursions to other areas. This means that the nature of these regions is suddenly enduring millions of footsteps. Such a sudden change can be very harmful, especially to a fragile region like the highlands.

The reason why only few areas are so popular among tourists is because the others don’t offer enough infrastructures or facilities for tourists.

Clara , Yunjin & Rosanne

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side. According to its managing director “the

Sustainable Tourism: Marketing Untouched Nature To verify our first impressions about the situation of sustainable tourism in Reykjavik, we decided to get in touch with some Icelanders who are concerned with this topic. We’ve got an interview with the managing director of Landvernd and with the young members of the Left-Green Movement.

Afterwards, we also asked Icelandic citizens for their opinions.

Lack of research The non-governmental association Landvernd works on environmental issues in general. Regarding tourism, it focuses mainly on the influence on the nature in the country-

nature in different areas can manage the increased amount of visitors differently, that has to be considered as the main point”. This

to manage with a huge number of visitors”. Then, it will be pos-

take a map of the country and paint the different areas according to their capacity

Infrastructure for nature protection However, as the increased number of tourists in Iceland can’t be denied, building infrastructure actually helps to protect landscapes. On the one hand a further developed system of roads and paths can help to spread the incoming tourists. Currently there are places, which tend to be too

means that some places can’t deal with visitors without being destroyed because of the fragility of their ecosystems. So there’s a need of general restrictions. In other spots, the number of people going there only needs to be regulated, but there’s still a lack of research about which landscape is able to tolerate how much traffic. The best solution would be to spread the tourist spots. “We have to

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sible to decide which areas have to be closed to public and in which ones the government has to develop a better infrastructure.

crowded like the “Golden Circle” and suffer from the disproportionate exposure and others which haven’t been discovered by the tourist industry yet, although they’re not that vulnerable and quite interesting to see. On the other hand the infrastructure in popular places needs to be improved to limit the damages caused by visitors, e.g. if there’s an official path, probably people won’t walk everywhere and the rest of the area can be saved. As the landscape is the main reason for tourists to go to Iceland, its protection is also of economic importance, or how our interlocutor framed it “We are selling nature, that means we need to protect it.”

Compromise between profit and conservation The members of Vinstri Græn, the Icelandic governmental green-left party, agree with him in that point and emphasize the question about the

we spoke to, concur with the fact that the infrastructure has to be adjusted to the increasing dimension of tourism to avoid greater damage and preserve the diversity of landscapes. Reducing it on a few famous places doesn’t meet Iceland’s singularity. But there are also other points where the Icelandic tourism could be more sustainable, e.g. the transportation. Most tourists use huge excursion busses, which consume lots of fuel although there’s a public bus system, but it’s just not that much promoted. Seeing Iceland’s nature as a common good, the VG claims that tourists should pay a fee to the national government, not to private landowners, to compensate construction and renovation costs. As a way to pursue this aim, they name a “night fee” of about 2% which could be added automatically on the hotel prices.

Citizens willing to share their country Regarding tourism in Reykjavik in particular, the members’ attitude towards the visitors is very positive, “it gives the city

the colour [they] have been missing”. But apart from the

how-to. “Marketing untouched

nature is a contradiction in itself”, there’s a need of compounding between total isolation and commercial exploitation. Further the VG members

enriching intercultural experience, there are still problems to solve. The government has to face the challenge of making Reykjavik a good city to live in, not only the starting point for tourist excursions. In this context the increasing number of hotels and tourist shops in the most central areas downtown has contraproductive effects, not only for the inhabitants, but also for Reykjavik as a city which is worth visiting, “maybe you are

destroying

something 13

that

tourists are coming to see, just to let them sleep”. On the

other hand there are already alternatives developing, e.g. as the main street Laugavegur becomes more and more touristic, the parallel running Hverfisgata blooms, there is an increasing number of new shops or cafés. Generally, the VG members argue for a broader use of the city as a whole, while the downtown becomes progressively dense, the rest of the city offers quite a lot of space.

It is quite amazing with how much kindness everyone consented to talk to us and to see how positive the approach to tourists is in general. Although our survey can’t be seen as representative, there was a clearly favourable tendency.

Icelandic people in the streets were all willing to share their country and don’t see any problem in the huge number of tourists. The main reasons passers-by brought in, were the additional vivacity, which visitors bring to a sparsely populated place like Iceland and the financial gains. According to the members of the Left-green movement, everyone is willing to give the tourists the experience they came for. “They know that it’s good

for our economy. Everyone is nice to tourists – come let’s party and then jump into the sea!”

Clara , Yunjin & Rosanne

International Film Festival, the Arts Festival in May, etc.). Foreigners who are coming for that kind of events are certainly going to take a tour to the main interesting places on the island. And even if the number of visitors is maybe going to decrease in a few years, there will still be some people willing to discover the beautiful landscapes around the city.

Moreover, the prices should not become as high as before the crisis and there is diverse audience coming here for numerous reasons.

“We have here all kind of tourists all year.” This is why Iceland is supposed to stay a well-known destination now that it has been discovered.

“Responsible

is possible”

Experiencing a huge tourist boom, Iceland’s future has never been so unsure and is in the center of every debate.

Every single agency is investing in tour operators or real estate business and numerous hotels have been built in Reykjavik. What if all these new infrastructures in the tourist areas and in the center were empty in a few years? What if Iceland was not that trendy anymore, and what if the tourist agency found another fashionable country they can recommend to their clients? The country is going to face many issues during the coming years.

An endless popularity The citizens and the politicians don’t seem to think that Reykjavik will lose its fame soon.

One of the reasons is, that the city organizes some festivals during the year (such as the

Charging the tourists Naturally, the infrastructures that have been built will have to be maintained for the future visitors. When no one pays to go on tourist tours anymore, it will be

hard for the government to start charging the citizens to look after empty tourist areas.

This is the reason why the main discussion currently is about how to charge tourists.

Should they just put some boxes in the main visited areas, hoping that clients are generous enough to give a few kronas? Or should every single foreigner pay a fee when he leaves the country? Lots of ideas are on the table and one of them has to be chosen.

“This is our gold, it’s our na-

ture, we have to protect that and we need money to do that” According to the interviews, the government legally has to use this money to build new infrastructures in these areas. Furthermore, there is a serious need to create new laws for the landowners, who can, nowadays, do what they want with the money they are earning with tourists. So far, they are not under obligation to use this money to renovate the tourist areas. “The govern-

ment is against the fact that landowners are making people pay, but it is because they don’t get the share of it”. The state will soon have to vote to decide how to establish new taxes.

Educate tourists and citizens Another future issue is the amelioration of education and information. The newcomers in Iceland often lack of time to inquire about the country and about the consequences related to their arrival.

“A few days before they leave,

they just google “visit Iceland” and find the Golden Circle tour” Usually, they chose to visit only well-known areas and go on guided tours. An in14

creasing information in the tourist offices, for example, would help them to discover new places. It was interesting to see that most employees in the tourist offices are willing to promote tourism in some unknown areas. Moreover, foreigners are usually not aware of the public bus systems in the country which is really efficient and friendlier to the environment than excursion busses.

Another lack of information is concerning the citizens’ awareness. When they have been asked for their opinions about the consequences of the increasing tourism in Iceland and Reykjavik, they never seemed to be that much informed about the environmental crisis that is taking place in Iceland. The most common answer was “You

know, it is a big country and we are only a few people here, there is enough space for eve-

ryone”. To avoid this ignorance, the government, in collaboration with the Landvernd association, is working on a program called “Eco-Schools”, which take place in more than 210 establishments in the country, from kindergarten to university. Programs such as “Eco-Schools” are organized to provide a simple framework to help make sustainability an integral part of school life.

Marketing “Untouchednature” Generally speaking, the situation doesn’t seem so alarming according to the politicians and the citizens. However, environmental associations appear to be more concerned. Tourism is in the center of every debate nowadays and hopefully the state will chose an option that will continue to promote tourism and at the same time pre15

serve their natural gold. “You

know, I think responsible is possible”. Obviously, in Iceland or in any other country, opting for a marketing of “untouched nature” is a contradiction in itself … and most of the people working in the tourism sector are naturally more willing to sacrifice the nature to gain more money. In a country such as Iceland, no one has the impression that these huge natural areas would suffer because of a few tourists taking pictures, but it is impossible for an ecosystem not to be affected by such a change.

Clara , Yunjin & Rosanne

Living in the streets of Reykjavik Iceland is a wealthy nation with a strong social system but still homeless people are a part of the Icelandic society. Homelessness is not a problem, drugs are not a problem. The accurate number is hard to tell. In Iceland, about 200 people between the age of 18 and 75 are officially registered as homeless. Around one quarter is female, according to a report

by Reykjavík City Council welfare division. The report also reveals that the majority of those registered as homeless are Icelandic citizens. The majority of homeless people are pleased with the services provided by the city. There are several homeless care projects for them. The city of Reykjavík does own three temporary shelters in town – one on Miklabraut, one on Þingstræti and the Red Cross shelter for women. These places serve as a place to sleep and little more.

A visit in the shelter: “Never lose hope”

The Salvation Army association supports people in need.

It is an international Church movement that currently works in over 120 countries.

In Iceland their social work is directed to support people in need or in difficult situation.

The day shelter is a comfortable house next to the harbor.

Some men are relaxing or sleeping on the couch. Some are watching TV. About seven people are sitting around tables with a cup of coffee and cakes. Here is the workplace of Rannvá Olsen who manages the shelter. An interview about the social problems and the challenges for homeless people in Reykjavik.

Can you describe the situation of homeless people today and development in the last years?

After the crisis in 2008, many people lost their jobs and ended in the street. It increased and changed very much. In 2007, the average was about 15 clients per day. In January 2014, there are about 28 people who come here every day.

In Reykjavik, there are about 200 people who are categorized as homeless. In 2007, there were many alcoholics in the age of 40, 50, 60 years. 2010, there were more people using tablets and narcotics. The number of foreigners seeking shelter in Reykjavík has 16

increased rapidly. One third of homeless people are immigrants, a majority from Poland.

What is the function of the day shelter in Reykjavik?

The shelter opened in 2007. It is an institution of the Salvation Army, a place where people can come to have a shower, get warm nutrition. They sleep on the sofa, ask for food. We prepare warm food and take care of the facilities to allow the visitors of the shelter to rest, talk and relax. Here, they get basic things that people need to survive.

This shelter is just for men.

How is the situation of homeless women?

Much more men than women are homeless and it’s harder to say exactly how many women are living on the street. I think, women are much more invisible. My explanation is that some of them could sell their bodies. Some of them stay with the men who provide them with drugs.

It’s difficult to imagine what it must be like to live day to day without shelter or income, cut off from our families and rejected by the society which raised us.

Can you describe the daily routine of these people?

Our opening times are from 10 am till 5 pm. Drugs and alcohols are prohibited here. People can store personal belongings and wash or get new clothes, watch videos.

Some of the guys play the guitar, others play chess and some of them love puzzling. There is also the possibility to work. On the first floor in the day shelter is a storage room which used to be a workshop.

They get 500 Icelandic króna per hour. Not much, but money for some cigarettes. For the men is this job really important. They like it to do something but they don’t have the energy to work all day.

Are they ashamed of their situation?

Majority of those who are defined homeless are addicts and many of them also suffer from mental illnesses. Some of them are really sick. But sometimes I meet some of them in the city and think: Wow! Many of them care for themselves. You wouldn’t identify all of them as homeless people.

Your work has started 2009. Can you give an insight in your job?

When I have started my work, I had much experience with alcoholics. But this was totally new. First, I worked very much on the floor.

Cleaning the rooms, preparing the building for the clients, these are important tasks. More and more, I have to buy food, organized meetings. Three volunteers work here.

We cooperate with the police, street workers and the city, especially the city guards.

These are three persons driving around and call 112, for example, if someone lies in the street, for example. But if some of the drunken men are violent, then they can’t come here. There are ambulance services communicate in issues, take people to the day shelter and exchange the needles of the drug users according to the principle of harm reduction.

You meet some of the clients every day. What is your relationship to them?

Very good! The soul care is very important. We are a Christian organization and spiritual talks are also essen-

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tial. We try to talk with them – but not always there is enough time.

What are the biggest challenges of your everyday work?

Of course we try to help all of them. We try to show them other ways. Sometimes, there aren’t any results for a long time. Sometimes I ask why I am doing this. But then there is a light. All of our clients have their own social advisors who help them. And we always have hope. Never lose hope!

Isabel Stettin

Sex, drugs and marginal groups If I say Iceland, YOU say: beautiful landscapes, pretty women, volcanoes, expensive beer, glaciers, friendly people. And I agree.

If I say social problems in Reykjavik, YOU say: ööööööö, never heard about it, economical crises(?). And I disagree. rooms in the autumn time.

— How do you get them?

— In trucks or per post. It is easy. We don't have enough heroin and cocaine. But we have other things. Everybody from here is using drugs. You can ask anyone from the street, and they can get you something. Especially weed. But I can get you anything. And we are growing them by ourselves.

— Do you never get caught by the police?

— Well, maybe sometimes, because the police is everywhere. Big brother, you know. But I have experience and I don't care.

— And what about prostitution?

— We have, we have. Most of the girls want to get some drugs, so they go to that bar I was telling you about and get what they want, and give something else as a payment. They are really easy going girls.

Don't like them.

What about you? Where do you want to travel?

— To the south, I think. Or everywhere. I am planning to rent a car.

— Yes, do it. With your VISA card. Do you have one?—Yes. — Do it. And don't forget one thing: you should never ever trust anyone. Ever. I am talking now nicely, but do you know who am I?

A random chit-chat with K., a 36 year old marginal individual from Reykjavik.

Me: Hello, do you have a lighter?

K.: Of course. Always! Where are you from?

— Stuttgart, Germany. Have you been there?

— No, only in Berlin. I have friends there. But in Amsterdam and Copenhagen as well. I am planning a big trip trough these cities, and also Morocco and Africa. Maybe Mexico as well.

—WOW. That is nice. But I guess it is quite expensive.

— Well, I receive 1200 euros/month from the Icelandic state. It is enough. I hate this place anyway. Don't want to stay here.

—You speak a good English.

— I don't have any education. But I have learnt English in the prison school. What are you doing in Iceland?

— Travelling. It is really nice here. Bit expensive though.

— Listen to me. Do you want to save money? Go with with your VISA Card... Do you have one, don't you?

—Yes. — So, you go with your VISA Card and you rent a car. With VISA card you will receive an insurance. So you travel for some days and on your last day, you tell your friend, that she should “steal” your luggage. You know what I mean?

— I am not sure....

— You pretend that she stole it. And the company will pay everything back to you.

— Really?

— I did it so many times. It works. Try it out.

— Can you tell me some cool pubs from Reykjavik?

— Downtown everything sucks... Well, I don't like it. But like 30 minutes from here, you will find a nice bar. Go there. You can find everything there.

— Everything?

— Yes, sure. Drugs, girls, alcohol.

— Do they people use here drugs?

— What do you want? I can get you anything.

Just tell me what do you want.

— I don't use drugs, thanks.

— I am telling you, that the drugs here are much better than in Germany. And more expensive.

But we grow our own marijuana. It is nice. But I like to take some pills. Those are really good.

You feel like in a movie. You just watch out from your head. It is amazing. Or the good mush-

Tekla Fodor

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Icelandic fancy Champagne for you?

appeared (18.07.2013) the police started to investigate and shut down two out of three champagne clubs in Reykjavik.

This doesn't mean that the oldest profession of all times disappeared from the peaceful city, but surely it is hidden in a proper way.

------------------------

My colleague and I met Tómas Gabríel Benjamin in May, 2014 in Reykjavik. He was willing to talk about his experience as a journalist in Reykjavik and told us interesting stories about the “dark side” of the city. We want to thank Tómas Gabríel Benjamin for his time and all the information, contacts that he gave us to continue our research in social problems in Reykjavik.

Tekla Fodor Iceland is a country, that cleary values women – this was shown by the huge effort of cracking down the human trafficking and stripping in the country. "It is not permissible for restaurants [which includes bars] to offer nude shows, promote or profit in any way from the nudity of staff or others present." - stays in Article 4, section 4 of Icelandic law 85/2007, amended on 23th of March 2010.

They also adopted the so called Nordic model, a set of laws and policies with two main goals: to curb the demand for sex trafficking and to promote gender equality.

The mentioned laws and policies are unfortunately not (always) strong enough to stop business man to sale their most expensive champagne in different clubs in Reykjavik. Tómas Gabríel Benjamin, journalist at Grapevine went undercover to one of the famous Champagne club Reykjaviks and witnessed how much women cost and what they offer: – The article was a bit of a gamble.

Everone suspected that there is prostitution going on. And I went to confirm it, just to see what is going

on there. I wanted to see it with my eyes - said Gabríel next to a cup of coffee on a Sunday afternoon.

He ordered 15 minutes for 20.000 ISK and had the opportunity to get some private time with a girl, chosen by him.

(If you are interested in the story please follow this link: h t t p : / / g ra p e vi n e . i s / N e ws / ReadArticle/Anything-You-Want -For-Twenty-Thousand-Kronur) – In the end there was nothing to deny, so I contacted some lawyers and at the beginning nobody wanted to talk with me, no one knew anything. But then I find a guy who flipped and I received the needed numbers – confirmed the journalist.

The origin of the girls working in these clubs was unknown, but since the Icelandic society is a small one, it is presumable that the girls were not from Iceland: – If you live here and work as a prostitute for longer than three months people will recognize you on the street – explained Gabríel.

Shortly

after 19

the

article

Did you know, that in Iceland:

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·

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beer was banned from 1945 until 1989.

Today you can buy beer only in Vinbudin, the state-run liquor store (aside duty-free, restaurants and pubs) in 1956 all boxing shows, competitions and lesson were forbidden. In 2002 they allowed amateur boxing, but only under strict conditions the government has banned prostitution in 2009 and a year after, in 2010 the strip clubs as well.

Same-sex marriage has been legal since 2010 and the homosexuals have the right to adopt children.

Vigdis Finnbogadottir was the world's first female head of state – elected in 1980 the sale of handguns is illegal there is nor army, air force or navy. But Iceland does have a Coast Guard

Population of Icelanders in March 2013 was 322,930 inhabitants. 9,371 of them are Polish.

Islandic government opened for Poles labour market in 1 May 2006. Polish society in Iceland has their own priests, shops, schools and everything what they need. Second minority in Iceland are Lituanians: 1,609. In

Minorities in Iceland 2012 there was opened direct air route between Reykjavik and Lithuania. There are Lituanian musical groups and private schools for kids. The third population of foreigners in Iceland are Philippines: 1,385. “Living in Iceland is terrific� minorities say.

We met many of them and they are really glad to live here. The weather is a thing,

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which is often picked out as the most difficult factor in adaption.

Every i n te r viewee said that rapid weather change and long winter makes their life here harder.

What else did they need to overcome to get used to Islandic condictions? How their living in Iceland start?

Wonyoo and Paula

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How did everything begin?

Guoxiu: I used to live in Beijing with my husband and daughter.

In 2008 my sisters living in Reykjavik invited me here. I accepted invitation and stayed here till now.

When I decided to stay longer I took Icelandic course and Marek: I have been working abroad since 1991. After working in Canada I came to Iceland. In after 3 years here I 2008 there was no work, so I came back to got a job.

Poland for half of a year. When I returned to Iceland I decided to stay here.

Julia:

My friend invited me to visit him in Reykjavik 6 years ago. I decided to stay here for a while and after 3 weekd I found a job as a babysitter. I overstayed and was working in cleaning company, afterwards as a bartender in coffeehouses.

Michael: The first visit in Iceland was holidays in 2010. When I came back to my

routine in France, I felt strong feeling to change something in my life. I bought one way ticket to Iceland and was living in couchsurfing friend’s place, then in hostel in Reykjavik. I was looking for job by knocking door to door. Worldwide friends found a place for me in their crew. Once a time there was nobody who could drive with participants for an excursion to Fjords. I became a driver, camp leader afterward. I stayed in organization 9 months.

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Guoxiu: I used to be a housewife in China. In Reykjavik I work at café. My duties are to keep the place in cleanness. I clean dishes much more than I did in China. J

Is your work different than in your country?

Michael: I am energetic engeener and work in renovation company now.

During the summer time there is a chance to work in a hotel and help in all kinds of jobs. I don’t know the language, so I can’t work as an engineer. Even if I knew Islandic, I wouldn’t work in this kind of job. It’s quite arduous work, not for me.

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Marek: In Poland I worked as a blue-collar Julia: Well, I usually worked at the café as a manager in Lithuania. Now I’m doing the same job.

Michael: According to France, I can see the difference in attitude to work in Iceland.

Workers don’t compete here. What’s more, I discern that families in Iceland are often patchwork. People get married as really young people, have children and then divorce. It is not seldom that Icelanders set up home a few times in their lifes. I also noticed Icelanders don’t mind time. They always have time for everything and often are late.

What kind of cultural differences can you perceive?

Julia: I c e l a n d e r s are more cheerful and less care a b o u t money than people in Lithuania.

Marek: Icelanders are much more helpful than Poles. I have a feeling they’re really contented when they can help.

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Guoxiu: It seems to me, that life in China is more complex. Chinese think too much, are nervous about what’s happening tomorrow, what government says, how should I act in my society. Here, Icelandic people live calmly and comfortably. Icelanders are easy-going.

Michael: I didn’t have many troubles with adaptation.

The only nasty thing I experienced was talking to me in Islandic even if I knew English. The cold wasn’t the problem for me, only darkness during the winter. Everything seems to be easier in Iceland. People can make up some solutions swimmingly.

Guoxiu: My sisters and their family living here teached me Icelandic. They were a strong support for me during adaptaion. After 3 years I found a job. Working in a restaurant was hard for me due to communica tion pr obl ems.

How did your adaptation proceed?

Julia: At the beginning I felt alone, because I had only one close friend at that time.

It was hard time for me, when I spoke to my family and friends only via skype

Marek: When I came here in 2008, it was easier to adapt than today. There were less Polish people, Icelanders were more likely to help foreigners.

Michael: All Icelanders can speak English, I don’t think Icelandid is needed to live here. I suppose Icelandic helps in adaptation.

It’s easier to make friends among local inhabitants then.

Julia: I was learning Icelandic at work and now I can speak it without a big efford. It helps me at work, I can easily communicate with locals and make friends.

Guoxiu: Yes, I do. I can’t speak English and without Icelandic I couldn’t live here. For me local language was necessary to get a job here.

Can you speak Icelandic? Do you think it helped you to adapt? If you can’t speak, did it handiI can’t speak Icelandic, but I use Eng- capped to adapt?

Marek: lish. It was enough for me to get a job here and make some friends 25

Michael: I didn’t have bigger problems with adaptation here. The only thing was the darkness during the winter.

What was the biggest difficulty to adapt in Reykjavik?

Julia: I was alone I couldn’t meet my friends, my family. Communication problems were the biggest problem for me.

Guoxiu: They are extremely nice, for me they were always openminded and it was easy to be a friend with them.

What can you say about Icelanders attitude?

Marek: The only thing was weather, other issues went without any trou-

Michael: Is it said that Icelanders are rather withdrawn and I agree with that statement. It seems that Islanders prefer to have a few close friends and it is enough for them.

From the other hand, Reykjavik inhabitants are cheerful, opened to small talks and calm. They always have time to help you.

Julia: Marek: I feel here like at home. I live the same rhythm like Icelanders.

Guoxiu: Actually, there was no problem. I can get Chinese vegetables to make meals and have an appointment with a doctor.

Weather was a problem sometimes but for me that's also okay, because I lived in Beijing and I got used to bad, cold weather.

Only one thing is that my daughter lives in China and she has came here only once. I miss her.

Icelanders are really helpful, they helped me with studying Icelandic.

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Guoxiu: I have Visa. And I want to get a citizenship.

Julia: If I took Icelandic citizenship, then I would loose Lithuanian one. It’s not necessary for me to get it. I became stronger physically, because of moving to other country and it’s the most relevant issue for me.

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Michael: I would like to have Islandic citizenship, but firstly I needs to know language. I’m afraid I wouldn’t be the part od Icelanders society and it’s impossible for foreigners.

Are you going to acquire the citizenship?

Marek: I don’t need citizenship.

Photography in Reykjavik

Reykjavik is a city with a wide scene of visual arts.

There are many possibilities for studying arts and making arts in Reykjavik. Therefore Reykjavik also offers a lot to see for someone who enjoys visiting galleries and museums. Interested in photography, I chose two of my favorite photography attractions in Reykjavik.

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If you’d like to meet an Icelandic

photographer

and enjoy some really good photographs, visit Ari Sigvaldason’s gallery

Fotografi, Skólavörðustígur 101

at Skólavörðustígur 101.

Sigvaldason is probably one of the best contempo-

chair and listens to Bob Dylan.

In Fotografi you can buy Sig-

The armchair is his favorite

valdason’s photos and the

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place and there he wants to be

book, Shot in Reykjavik. You

years ago he decided to

photographed, he says. When I

can also just stop by for chat-

leave his work as a jour-

start photographing, he contin-

ting with him. The gallery

ues reading his book like the

doesn’t have any certain open-

camera in front of him would-

ing hours. If the door is closed,

n’t exist.

don’t hesitate to call the num-

rary photographers working

in Reykjavik.

nalist and open his first photo gallery. Fotografi has

been

located

Skólavörðustígur

on since

His behavior describes perfectly his visions in photogra-

2007.

phy. His passion is to docu-

When I step into the gallery,

ment every day life and natu-

Sigvaldason sits in his arm-

ral moments that are not

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ber written on the door.

Anni

f o m eu s u M y h p a gr o t o ph

From a Different Angle pre-

development of photogra-

certainly

sents photographs by Ice-

phy as a form of art.

Friðjónsdottir’s dark moun-

landic women, who have

The exhibition is divided in

tain

worked as photographers

tree categories: landscape/

Malassis’es series called Pe-

in Iceland. The curator of

nature,

life

tites pauses. The series of

the exhibition, Katrín Elvas-

and

life.

portraits and home life were

dòttir, wants to give credit

The first locates in the

even more impressive. In

to

female

Reykjavik Museum of Pho-

family and home life section

photographers’ works, be-

tography and the two oth-

you should give attention to

cause they haven’t been

ers in the National Museum

Greta Guðonsdottir’s series

much

of Iceland.

of an old woman living her

the

icelandic

respected

in

the

past. The photographs describe the icelandic culture and nature during a 140year-long period and show both the development of the camera technology and

family/home

portraits/social

The photo series are all very different, which makes the exhibition interesting.

My personal favorites from the landscape section were 30

Inga

views

and

Sólveig Vincent

last days and in portrait section you should check out Herdis

Guðmundsdóttir’s

beautiful photographs of different characters in nature light.

Exhibition: From a Different Angle. . . Photography by Icelandic women 1872–2013 (25 January-1 June 2014) Location: Reykjavik Museum of Photography, Tryggvagata 15 Opening hours: Mondays to Thursdays from 12.00-19.00 Fridays: 12.00-18.00 Weekends from 13.00-17.00 National Museum of Iceland, Suðurgata 41 Opening hours: 1. may – 16. September every day 10-17

Both of the museums are

esting themes. The Na-

worth to see. The Reykja-

tional Museum of Iceland

vik Museum of Photogra-

has in addition to the tem-

phy has a collection with

porary exhibitions a per-

around 5 million photo-

manent exhibition about

graphs from 1870 to 2002

heritage and history in Ice-

and their temporary exhi-

land.

bitions offers a lot of qual-

Anni

ity photographs with inter-

31 31

CREDITS

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Project managers: Jaka Cuk and Alessandro Zabban Editorial Team: Alessandro Zabban, Rosanne Fasel All Articles by:Anni Reenp채채, Tekla Fodor, Yunjin Bae, Julia Hoffmann, Paula Wicher, Clara Jungblut, Rosanne Fasel, Wonyoo Choi, Isabel Stettin Cover and back pictures by Anni Reenp채채 (www.annireenpaa.com) 33 only illustrations Pictures page 18 and 19 are

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