5 minute read
Copenhagen’s endless array of smørrebrød
from WOW magazine Issue 6 2018
by WOW air
Step one: prepare to unbutton the top button of your trousers. Step two: leave your bike at your hotel because you will be convinced to enjoy more than a few glasses of schnapps during your lunch, at some places more than others. Step three: follow our guide below to discover which spectacular smørrebrød joint is for you.
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MOUTH WIDE OPEN
We recommend making time in your vacation for more than one open-faced sandwich stop and leaving at least an hour or two to indulge. A French baguette outside Le Sacre Coeur this is not, nor a German bratwurst on the street before you hurry onto the next museum, smørrebrød is a great Danish tradition which is to be entertained and enjoyed at leisure with friends. You will see just as many aging gentleman smashing aquavit glasses over their smoked mackerel on rye at the city’s best traditional restaurants as you will see bustling tourists.
ASIAN-FUSION WONDERLAND: ROYAL SMUSHI
The newest of all smørrebrød spots is conveniently located right next to the Royal Porcelain Factory should you be hunting for a souvenir. This quirky and kitsch café takes English and Japanese traditions to a whole new level of a mashup, and serves up sushi-inspired afternoon tea in the form of Danish open-sandwiches including fresh and smoked salmon, traditional mackerel and yolk, tartare and delicious edamame and green side salads. Also on the menu are a smattering of fresh cakes and sweet pies, plus the traditional Danish dessert of cream and red berries rødgrød med fløde. Enjoy an Alice in Wonderland inspired decor of high ceilings and girlish charm. Crank up your afternoon tea with sparkling wine after a pot of Earl Grey.
FIT FOR A KING’S GARDEN: ORANGERIET
After a stroll in Kongens Have (the King’s Garden) and a peruse of the crown jewels at the Rosenborg Castle next-door, take a seat in this gorgeous, light-filled restaurant—the former orangery of the royals and also the former premises of famed new Nordic hotspot Geranium. The standard still remains high here: expect visual twists on traditional chicken and tarragon mayo which are served looking like works of art with delicate peels of apple and fresh herbs. Avocado and shrimps on rye and their curried herring also fly out of the kitchen. The poached pear with lemon thyme, blackberry sorbet and warm white chocolate foam dessert is a fantastic palate-cleanser, and all this seated in under heaters in the perfectly manicured garden, couldn’t feel more regal if you tried.
THE ULTIMATE DELUXE GENTLEMEN (OR WOMEN)’S LUNCHEON: KRONBORG
This inner-city dining room, with green and white checked tablecloths and immaculately dapper waiters is a Copenhagen institution for longstanding regulars and gastronomy connoisseurs the world over. Request to be served by the fantastic Ib, and outside on the street so you can people-watch. Be ready for their epic “Gentlemen’s Lunch” with an empty stomach prepared for all the fried place and sweet remoulade, roast pork with apple sauce and fresh beef tartare with raspberries you can handle. Each mouthful will be punctuated with a different schnapps—homemade on site, I recommend the dill, then the horseradish as you move from seafood to meat respectively. Expect to roll yourself away and over the cobbles of this old, crooked, atmospheric street at least two hours later like a true gent.
WINTER HYGGE: TOLD AND SNAPS
Another traditional mainstay, candlelit and extremely hygge, and positioned conveniently close to the picturesque Nyhavn for all your boat-watching and theater-going. Told and Snaps is run by a legendary woman-about-town and serves up insanely good Norwegian salmon on white bread, fried pork, and fresher than fresh tartare with a full golden yolk. Sol over Gudhjem, a traditional Bornholm island dish of herring with yolk and raw onions on rye is immensely popular in this underground cavern. The staff is young, friendly and knowledgeable to the crowd—a mixture of international tourists and old Danes celebrating birthdays or the fact it is lunchtime and they can justify three schnapps.
WATERSIDE TRADITIONAL MEETS CONTEMPORARY: KOMPASSET
Right on actual Nyhavn’s colorful stretch and a stone’s throw from the open expanse of the sea canals is this darling contemporary Danish lunch and dinner spot. Midafternoon, after the mad rush in this tourist haven, is perfect for your afternoon tea smørrebrød with a difference. Sip on national craft beers before indulging in a little tipple of homemade St John’s Wort schnapps: the ultimate anti-depressant. Start with pork and truffle croquettes or monkfish, pea puree and yuca bites before ordering a selection of their wonderfully named sandwiches: Basic Instinct is tartare with Jerusalem artichoke cream, aioli, black garlic, yolk and vegetable crisps, while The Patriarch comprises of fresh shrimps, lemon mayonnaise and salsify. Their vegan option is also a delight: crisp and clean asparagus, avocado oil, mushroom purée, pearl barley, and plum compote. Compliment with sea buckthorn schnapps: the ultimate Scandinavian berry in potent liquid form.
A FLYING VISIT: AAMANNS
To ensure your whirlwind break in the Danish capital comes complete with a fairytale end, pay a visit to Aamann’s conveniently located branch in the relaxed departures lounge at Copenhagen Airport. Slide onto their chic stools and order curried herring, Icelandic salmon with chervil emulsion, kohlrabi and gherkin, eggs with cauliflower and roasted almond, and grilled sirloin with béarnaise and chanterelles. Compliment your last beloved Danish open-faced with a lovely schnapps and get planning your next visit to Copenhagen.
Hop on over to Copenhagen and discover smørrebrød, Denmark’s famous open-faced sandwich. WOW air offers cheap flights to Copenhagen every day of the year, all year round.
Article by Alexandra Pereira