Exploring Pacific
PANAMA
Story by Sandra Olson Photos by Gabeto Fernandez
Some places in the world are simply magical... Pacific Panama is just that. Pure magic.
Exploring Pacific
PANAMA
Story by Sandra Olson Photos by Gabeto Fernandez
Some places in the world are simply magical... Pacific Panama is just that. Pure magic.
Pacific Panama’s landscape is lush, verdant, and mountainous, covered in thick jungle foliage complemented by a myriad of palm tree species swaying high above the jungle peaks. There are black sand beaches that offer you sand dollars the size of your hand, vibrant orange and purple crabs that roam the beaches and roads- pretty much everywhere (careful, they love to hitch a ride home in your suitcase!) and picturesque islands that bask in the beautiful, deep blue ocean. The distant islands are a constant reminder that you’re at land’s edge, engulfed in a sensory overload of untouched serene nature, and a calmness and tranquillity that is felt to your very core. Most surfers, if they’ve been to Panama, have been to Bocas del Toro, which is located on the Caribbean side. While it boasts its own charm for sure, there’s a stillness and remoteness, a spirit of adventure and barely discovered waves that the rugged pacific shores offer. It beckons
Sandra @ Leftovers
2 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
you to go where most will never dare. With limited vacation time, it’s easy to hit the hotspots that are easily found on the internet, saving exploration “for another day”. For Dan and I, that day finally came when I found some SUPER cheap tickets on Spirit Airlines for the first week of June, and booked us a quick trip to one of the most remote and gorgeous areas we’ve ever surfed… Chiriqui, Panama. My goal for this trip was to determine where exactly to take a select group of surfers for our 2020 WSSM Surf Retreats. So, of course, one must always do “research” in order to know what to expect, right? I know… I love my job! We knew that we already loved surfing the remoste, secluded, western-most province of Chiriqui, but were especially eager to check out some new accommodations available there. Our friend and host on our first surf trip to Panama in 2010, Steve Thompson, (former owner of Morro Negrito Surf Camp, located nearby), after a partner split, had created a beautiful new location called Surfer Paradise Surf Camp. This new camp was located on its own private island, he said. How amazing is that?!
In addition to Surfer Paradise Surf Camp, we knew we wanted to explore even further south on this trip, to check out some of the other remote areas on the southern shore. What accommodations, if any, were available, what waves were on offer (skill level needed?), and how transportation worked. Everything in Panama is really spread out, and it takes forever to get anywhere. But that’s also part of it’s magic. Surfers travelling through our WSSM Surf House in Puerto Rico, had told us if we liked the Province of Chiriqui, then we should also check out Cambutal, Playa Venao, and Santa Catalina. With it being just the two of us exploring this time, we decided these additional surf breaks and towns were a must-do in our whirlwind of a 10 day surf trip through Pacific Panama. But first, we were headed to Surfer Paradise Surf Camp, one of the most magical places in the world.
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 3
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
4 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Kristin & Kerry @ Elijah’s In the Province of Chiriqui, Panama, lies a world that feels surreal and untouched. A place where you’ve got all the waves to yourself, and where your surfing will improve like never before. No crowds, no hassles, no egos. Just you and your friends, laughing, relaxing, and catching more waves than your bodies can handle.
Photo by Gabeto Fernandez
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 5
At the boat launch, ready to lose ourselves in wave paradise for seven glorious days
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
6 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Photo by Gabeto Fernandez
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 7
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
Headed to Surfer Paradise Surf Camp... The adventure has only just begun Photo by Gabeto Fernandez 8 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 9
STOP #1 Surfer Paradise Surf Camp Let’s go back to the beginning. Ten years ago, Steve had invited WSSM to his former location, Morro Negrito. We brought with us several good surf buddies and photographer, Gabeto Fernandez. All on board and excited for the adventure, we enjoyed an epic week in the Gulf of Chiriqui that we’ll remember forever, surfing till we couldn’t paddle anymore, and catching more waves than should be legal. What made it so perfect was the almost nonexistent crowds! The lineups consisted of only our group of 5 and another small group of 5 from Idaho. That was it-- the entire time! Even with two “groups”, we rarely saw each other than meal times, due to different surf schedules and break preference. We would often just wave to each other in passing as our boats sped by each other. Even with no one else out there, we were thankful that they were headed back to camp, which meant we had all ten waves to choose from… ALL to ourselves!
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
10 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
We’ve been back twice since then, approximately every 5 years, and each time confirmed that in the Province of Chiriqui, you’ll score empty waves the majority of the time! It’s because Surfer Paradise Surf Camp is located in a semi-difficult to access, remote area. The journey there requires a 25 minute taxi ride to the main (and busy) bus terminal in Panama City, then a 6 hour bus ride to Guabala, where you are then met by the camps driver. Another 25 minutes by van to the port where you wait for the tide to fill in high enough to launch the boat, and then a 40 minute boat ride through endless mangroves, islands, and open ocean, until finally you arrive at your destination. It’s a trek! But that’s all part of the adventure! Here, where there are no houses, buildings or ANYTHING man-made in sight, you realize you’re now in a place that most people in the world will never get to experience. Isolated, free, and boasting 10 different surf breaks, the Chiriqui area is a surfers dream destination. You’ll find it easy to unwind, relax, and forget that the rest of the world exists for 7 marvelous days!
Kristin, Sandra & CJ
The Sandbar, directly in front of Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
Irvin (boat captain) & photographer, Gabeto Fernandez
High tide means the boat brings you right up to camp
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 11
Cabanas at Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
The open-air lounge at camp during low-tide
Chill time at the camp during low-tide
12 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
Acommodations
As I write this, it’s January 2020, and currently there are 3 cabanas available, sleeping 2-3 per cabana. However, with new construction underway, by Summer 2020, Surfer Paradise Surf Camp will be capable of hosting up to 20 surfers on its own private island! Curently you’ll find no frills, simple oceanfront cabanas that sleep 2-3 people per cabana. Offering a great view and a cool breeze, mosquito nets will keep you comfortable at night, and there are fans in each of the rooms. At night, the gentle rain on the tin roof will lull you right to sleep-- making it a unique and memorable experience.
WSSM photographer, Gabeto Fernandez, enjoying a Panamanian coconut
There is running water for drinking and showering, but no hot water, so it’s best to leave the divas at home or for another surf trip. It’s rustic-- but comfortable, and you really do have everything you need. There is a spacious oceanfront dining and lounge area for eating and visiting in the evening, as you gather around the large wooden dining table and swap surf stories from the day. Additional hammocks and lounge chairs make napping a pleasurable necessity as the tides ebb and flow throughout the day-- literally just steps away. You’ll enjoy 3 delicious meals a day, of MASSIVE proportions, including fresh fruit- most are locally grown on the island, vegetables, rice, pasta, chicken and freshly caught fish, just to name a few. The food is really GOOD and is sure to revive you after a long session (vegetarian diets can be accommodated with a little bit of notice). Electricity is available in the evening for a few hours when they start up the generator, and the internet can be accessed best through a local SIM card (Mas Movil gets the best reception on the island). Need more power? Pack a solar powered cell phone charger and you’ll be able to stay in contact with the rest of the world without interruption. It’s suggested to have your phone unlocked while in Panama (ask your carrier to unlock it), then, buy a sim card (Mas Movil) at the bus station (not the airport, it’s way overpriced) where you can get them from $2-10. That will give you texting, data, and the best reception. That being said though, it’s best to really just unplug and enjoy the natural setting that surrounds you-- and leave the electronics and social media at home. Or at least until you’re back on the mainland. Want to know about the waves? See page 24
Simple, comfortable accommodations
Other Activities
You’re going to be so worn out from the surf that the most you can usually do is just relax in between sessions, recuperating. However, if you’re tired, but not ready to sleep yet, there’s also diving, snorkeling, fishing, ocean kayaking, hiking and exploring the private island, yoga, beachcombing, ping pong, or just relaxing in a hammock. In the evening, you can review your daily surf session on the camp TV-DVD if you bring your camcorder. There is also a variety of wild life including monkeys, the occasional sea turtle, many types of birds, parrots and even wild deer. But really, the waves are what you’re here for, and they’re in abundance!
CONTACT: SURFER PARADISE SURF CAMP* WEBSITE: www.surferparadise.com | EMAIL: steve@surferparadise.com (*NOT to be confused with Morro Negrito Surf Camp- the former location owned by Steve’s expartner. WSSM does not recommend staying at Morro Negrito for a variety of reasons.)
Group bonfires on the beach
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 13
View from the hill above the current Surfer Paradise Surf Camp. New construction is being built atop this hill, providing sweeping views of the Gulf of Chiriqui
Aerial view of the bay at Snickers Photo: Steve thompson
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
14 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Morning crew
Headed to the boat launch with our surf guide, Michael, camp guest, Cynthia, and the camp doggie
Camp owner, Steve Thompson and son, Stevie
Michael (surf guide) checks out Silva Island in the distance as we head to Leftovers, P Land & Nestles
Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
Your cabana view at Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 15
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
Photo by Gabeto Fernandez 16 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Photos: Steve Thompson
CJ @ Snickers
Sunset at Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
P Land
Each cabana sleeps 2 people, with 2 cabanas sleeping 3
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 17
Meet the locals
Kerry @ Elijah’s
Photos by Gabeto Fernandez
18 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Kerry & Buffy
Camp co-owner, Janette Thompson
CJ & Kristin @ Snickers EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 19
El Toro
(the bull)
EXPLORING PACIFIC
Watching the tide slowly fill in until it’s at your doorstep here at camp, never gets old
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
20 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Photo by Gabeto Fernandez
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 21
Photos by Gabeto Fernandez
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
On the way to surf Leftovers one day, a pod of dolphins circled, jumped, swam and played with us for almost 30 minutes... Beyond AMAZING!
Kaydi, CJ, Kerry and Kristin
22 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
There’s an inexplicable magic here in Panama, and Snickers in particular. From the completely empty, long, black sand beach, to the lush , dense jungle backdrop... And it’s just you, your surf guide, and your favorite surf buddies sharing waves and this adventure of a lifetime together wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 23
The Waves THE SANDBAR
Located directly in front of the camp, it almost always offers a surfable wave, and when it’s on, it’s pretty sweet! On such days, Steve (owner) says “there are A frame peaks going left and right that will leave your arms feeling like the spaghetti you ate last night, and your jaws will hurt from smiling so much”. We had so much fun at Leftovers on this trip, we never had enough energy to try the sandbar. Next time !
THE POINT
(Sighhhhhhh...) This is where I caught my first barrel. Heavy, heaving, and laden with great barrels, this spot requires commitment and dedication down the line. One small hesitation, and you’ll find yourself standing in thigh-high water on top of large boulders, looking out to sea at giant walls of whitewater rushing towards you, attempting to slam you mercilessly into the
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
24 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
steep cliff behind you. Not a break for beginners or those looking for a cushy wave. If there are adrenaline junkies in your group-- this is the wave they’ll want to surf.
EMILY’S
is a short boat ride away from the new camp, and fires non-stop in front of the old camps location. It’s rocky shoreline is rugged, and navigating it is tricky if you’re coming from shore. But, since now you’re arriving by boat, your feet need never touch the shore! This fun point break peels nicely, and while it can’t handle BIG swell like some of the other waves nearby, it can be a fun and consistent way to get your feet wet, literally. Watch out for the shallow spots!
ELIJAH’S Named after the son of the man who
lived further down the beach from the old camp (yep, that’s how remote it is here, you can name a break after your son), and an 8 minute paddle from Emily’s, Elijah’s is a gentle, sandy bottom beach break that empties into a small bay, and doubles as the boat launch for the old camp. Playful and consistent, it’s super fun on a medium tide, and when you get a bunch of friends all surfing it together on all sizes of boards, good times are guaranteed! A great wave and favorite for beginners through intermediates.
SNICKERS Located a ½ mile down the beach
from Elijah’s on the most beautiful stretch of black sand beach (there’s sand dollars on this beach!), Snickers offers a fun and playful beach break, with multiple peaks going both right and left. Gor-
geous jungle and a thicket of palm trees lining the shore make it a spectacular view while surfing. Because it’s a beach break, it can’t handle big swell, but on waist to a couple feet overhead, and on the right tide (trust your surf guide on this!) it’s PURE MAGIC! We had the most incredible 5 hour session at Snickers ten years ago, and I’ve been chasing that experience ever since at other beach breaks around the world, unfortunately, without success. Like I said, there’s magic in Panama.
EL TORO (The Bull) A dumpy, punchy, super fun
beach break/reef that offers mostly lefts and the occasional right, and lines up in a small bay, cozily embedded between gigantic rock formations that tower into the heavens. On smaller days, this is a great choice for short, fun rides and playful surf. Get a big swell, and you’re in for a thumping.
NESTLES BIG. INTENSE. BARRELS. Need I say more? Located on the smallest of the nearby islands, this is one of two intense waves on this tiny island that are perfect for those seeking elevatordrop-in, heaving barrels that will challenge the best of surfers. Breaking both left and right, all we can say is... Go get ‘em!
LEFTOVERS
A WSSM favorite for sure! This incredible left-hand point break wraps around a small island, and lies just east of P Land. Accessible only by boat (30+ minutes), it’s best surfed on mid-high tide (low tide is scary). Rising up out of deep water, this wave gets your heart pumping whether you’re heading straight for the exit the entire ride, or candidly avoiding the shelf that ALMOST pops up while connecting all three sections correctly. The take-off zone spans quite a distance
usually, helping the less-adrenalin fueled surfer to take off on a softer shoulder, further down the line. It’s a big, beautiful and REALLY fun wave! Pack a lunch and extra water, and hit it early before the winds turn on… you’re not going to want to leave this wave.
P LAND Located a short 8 minute boat ride from Leftovers, this tantalizing left-hand point break can hold faces over 20’! Best ridden at midhigh tide, it’s powerful and consistent, making it a favorite for those looking to improve their big wave skills and who can handle the occasional beating on the inside. Best for intermediate to advanced surfers.
Sandra & Kristin @ Elijah’s Photo by Gabeto Fernandez
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 25
Dan @ Leftovers
Leftovers, a 25-30 minute boat ride from camp. is ready to give you the waves of your life! From 5’ to 25’... It’s all up to you. Photo by Gabeto Fernandez
26 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 27
Dan @ Leftovers
CJ & Kaydi
EXPLORING PACIFIC
Photos by Gabeto Fernandez
28 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
LEFTOVERS A WSSM favorite for sure! This incredible left-hand point break wraps around a small island,
and lies just east of P Land. Accessible only by boat (30+ minutes), it’s best surfed on mid-high tide (low tide is scary). This wave gets your heart pumping, whether you’re heading straight for the exit the entire ride, or candidly avoiding the shelf that ALMOST pops up while connecting all three sections correctly. The take-off zone spans quite a distance usually, helping the less-adrenalin fueled surfer to take off on a softer shoulder, further down the line. Overall, it’s big, beautiful and a REALLY fun wave! Pack a lunch and extra water, and hit it early before the winds turn on… you’re not going to want to leave this wave.
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 29
Kaydi @ Elijah’s
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
30 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Hike and explore the private island of Surfer Pradise Surf Camp, sip on a fresh coconut, or jump on the afternoon boat shuttle and go grab some surf! This is YOUR Paradise.
Elijah’s is fun for all board shapes and abilities! It’s a magic little wave machine that is non-stop fun. Photo by Gabeto Fernandez wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 31
32 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Kristin was charging by the end of this trip. SO proud of her!
WSSM photographer, Gabeto, takes a quick break on Snickers beach
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
Taking a break from her studies in culinary school, Maria enjoys her local break, Snickers Photo by Gabeto Fernandez
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 33
Don’t just dream about being here... Come with us! JOIN WSSM IN JUNE 2020 as we adventure back to this wave paradise for 2 glorious week-long retreats
Learn how you can join us on an epic WSSM Surf Retreat in Pacific Panama by visiting www.womenssurfstyle.com Space is limited... Reserve your spot today!
EXPLORING PACIFIC
PANAMA Stop #1: Surfer Paradise Surf Camp
34 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Photo by Gabeto Fernandez
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 35