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Surf Stoked . . . Nicaragua
Playa Remanso,
Traveling Nicaragua
Central America
By Sandra Olson
When surfing Central America, you’ll find a bevy of accommodations and surfing beaches to fit any budget and skill level. From quaint beach houses, to luxury condos, to rustic wooden houses tucked up among the Howler monkey filled trees up in the hills overlooking the ocean, to all-inclusive surf resorts. This summer, we explored the coastlines of El Salvador, Nicaragua and Puerto Rico, getting an inside look on what these surf-drenched countries offer surfers. Here are some of our favorites..
Tucked away less than 50 yards from Playa Remansos, the #1 beginner-intermediate surf break in Nicaragua, lies a quaint little 2 bedroom casa called Mar y Sol. This was our new “office” while staying in Nicaragua in between WSSM surf retreats this summer in Central America, and we could not have been more stoked with it!
the sounds of birds chirping in the nearby trees. After pouring a cup of hot Nicaraguan coffee, we would then stroll to the beach to check the surf. With epic views of the playa, surrounded by cliffs that protect this bay from a lot of wind, shell collecting, strolling the beach, or dipping in for a surf session became our morning routine. Perfection!
Casa Mar y Sol has a charming mix of traditional Nicaraguan style wood and bamboo detailing inside the house, with A/C in the master bedroom, vaulted ceilings, and colorfully painted walls of golds, reds and turquoise. It was the little details of this casa and the color scheme that delighted our senses as well as brightened the month we resided here, as we enjoyed hot water (a luxury in Central America), two bathrooms, and a FULLY stocked outdoor kitchen that boasted big wooden windows that swung outward, opening it up to the daily breezes. The only thing we needed to do was make a quick trip to the grocery store to stock up on food, and we were then set to enjoy a relaxing summer.
One of the things that makes this location so special is how close it is to good surf. Remansos is a gentle and beautiful beach break that breaks both left and right, with a sandy bottom that massages your feet as you walk your board out. An old dead tree located on the left side of the bay marks the lineup, making it easy to judge how far out to sit, and if you like the bigger sets, then there’s an excellent left that connects multiple sections, linking your ride nearly three quarters of the bay on the right swell.
Each morning we awoke to sunlight streaming in the windows and
Sandra enjoying the outer peak at Remanso Bay Photo by the awesome, Chris Madden 70 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Shuttles from the nearby town of San Juan Del Sur usually begin arriving anytime between 9-11am, depending on the tides, and stay until 4:30pm, so you almost always have the entire beach and surf to yourself for a few hours each morning, and then again an hour or
Dan at Playa Coco, a beautiful beach break only 20 minutes to the South of Mar y Sol beach house Photo: Gabeto Fernandez
Mar y Sol Beach house Playa Remanso, Nicaragua Dan enjoying an afternoon coffee in the comfortable hammocks in the spacious outdoor lounge area
Remanso Bay at sunset
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Surf Stoked . . . Nicaragua
Playa Remanso,
Traveling Nicaragua
Central America
more before sunset. The only two little beach bars there also open bright and early, or at least begin jamming their tunes, so you’re often serenaded as you enjoy your morning surf session.
This summer, the TV show, Survivor, was filming, and had closed several of the popular beaches to the South of San Juan Del Sur, so many surfers that would have normally visited Hermosa or Tamarind, were forced to surf the other breaks- including Remansos, which often made it crowded during the peak hours of the day. When it got too crowded, we would retreat back to Casa Mar y Sol, make some sandwiches, and spend hours listening to our favorite tunes on the awesome surround sound system, while swinging in hammocks in the outdoor living area, or enjoying one of the many comfy couches or chairs and catching up on work. Weeks lew by here, as we enjoyed swell after epic swell, from knee high ripples to several foot overhead sets. Pastor Dave, the founder of the Christian Surfers Nicaragua chapter, became one of our best
For the first few hours each morning, we had Remanso Bay all to ourselves! Photos this page: Gabeto Fernandez 72 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
surf buddies in the water. We discovered that the three of us shared a love for the deep water, heart pounding left, that would call us all the way to the outside (past the dead tree that marked the normal lineup) , that surprisingly most of the local groms ignored for the smaller, snappier - inside waves that break directly in front of the beachside bars. Hours were spent talking about everything from surfing, life, religion, future plans, more surfing... and more surfing! Pastor Dave is one of the most STOKED surfers we’ve ever met, with such a BIG heart for the people in this community that he and his wife now call home. You can learn more about the CS Nicaragua chapter by visiting them on facebook. As we moved on to Panama, our next retreat destination, and then to Puerto Rico later in the year to set up the very first WSSM Surf House, we knew that we would miss our surf buddy, Pastor Dave, the gentle and always fun waves of Remansos, and the cute little beach house, Mar y Sol, that was our home sweet home for the summer of 2014. Rent the affordable and charming Casa Mar y Sol for your next surf vacation, by visiting vrbo.com/342667 F
Mar y Sol beach house is cozy, comfy, and oh-so-close to the beach. At night, the outdoor lounge area comes alive with party lights and an incredible sound system, while you prepare dinner in the attached, open air kitchen
Photo: Gabeto Fernandez
After spending a month at Mar y Sol beach house, Dan had this beach break dialed in! Photo: Gabeto Fernandez wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 73
Surf Stoked . . . Nicaragua
Maderas y Olas,
Traveling Nicaragua
Central America
By Sandra Olson
Tucked away among the tree tops, lies a quaint wooden house, appropriately named, Maderas (woods) y Olas (waves). After finding this charming house on San Juan Del Sur Vacation Rentals, I contacted Tony, the property manager, to inquire about availability and access to surf. He was quick to reply, and within a few days, the place was ours!
While visiting Nicaragua, there are several ways you can enjoy the surf. If you’re an out-of-touch diva that feels the need to rub elbows with TV stars like Jeff Probst- of Survivor, then Pelican Eyes is probably the best place for you. But if you’re open to new adventures and sympathetic to the culture of third world countries, and want to support them, then finding a nice beach house will be the PERFECT choice, and you’ll enjoy yourself tremendously, living a simple life. Maderas y Olas is not a fancy place, but it is very well equipped, maintained, and the location is awesome! Within a 10 minute walk to playa Majagual, or Marsella for swimming or snorkelling, and Playa Maderas, one of the best surfing beaches in southern Nicaragua, double surf sessions daily is to be expected, and you’ll find it hard to tear yourself away from it. This beautiful beach offers several peaks to choose from, that can be wedgy and fast, or gently rolling, depending on the crowd. And it does get crowded! Dawn patrols will be your best bet here, as well as being a proficient surfer, unafraid to take your waves. Just like anywhere else in the world, once you do,
the locals back off, and will share their jewels with you. At this same beach you’ll also find several places to eat at, though they’re a bit pricey, if you budget them in, you’re going to enjoy epic sunsets and tasty grinds, day after day. After being on the road for several months, budget WAS a big deal for us, so we loved that Maderas y Olas’ kitchen was fully stocked with everything (except food) that we needed to prepare meals! Conveniently located only 20 minutes from San Juan Del Sur, stocking up on groceries was easy, and a quick trip to town was often an excuse to mix amongst the many ex-pats and locals that crawl the streets, while you shop for handmade Nicaraguan treasures. From hammocks, to machetes, to intricately detailed wooden bowls and household items... San Juan Del Sur offers a relaxing and safe atmosphere for exploration.
Rancho Santana
Night time found us out on our spacious balcony, where we enjoyed double-wide hammocks, chairs, and a GREAT internet connection
Surfing in Luxu
As you make your way down the hill to Playa Maderas, you’ll be wowed by the epic view and incoming sets 76 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Maderas y Olas is a cozy, two bedroom, two bath casa, with on-site manager, and close to some of the best surf in southern Nicaragua... Playa Maderas! Spend evenings on the spacious balcony and hammocks
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Sandra snagging a left at Playa Maderas Photo by Gabeto Fernandez wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 77
Surf Stoked . . . Nicaragua
Maderas y Olas
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Central
(rare in Central America) that we used to catch up with friends and family back home, watch surf movies, and listen good music. Nothing like listening to the Howler monkeys swinging in the trees- calling to their mates, while The Crystal Method lays down some sick beats! A nice mix of new and old world.
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A nearby adventure we enjoyed was Da Flying Frog Adventure Tours, where we got a personal tour from the manager, Baldo. By horseback we travelled to the ancient hieroglyphics, where Baldo gave us his interpretation of their meanings, since to date, no one has been able to officially document them. We then galloped uphill to take in the view of San Juan Del Sur nestled on the coastline of the Pacific. After another 20 minutes, we arrived at our next adventure... Rappelling down a 150foot cliff! None of us had ever done this, so with hearts pounding, we each slowly made our way down the cliff, carefully following Baldo’s instructions on where to place our feet, and how to release the tension in our ropes. It was an exciting experience! We then ended the adventure with their canopy tour... a zipline over coffee fields, ravines, and the occasional cowboy herding his cattle. Super fun! Book your adventure with Da Flying Frog Adventure tours
Nicaragua’s amazing sunsets never get old... Photo by: Pat Williams 78 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
by visiting www.dalyingfrog.com Another hidden gem we enjoyed, was an evening at Munchies Bluues, a small pizzeria located just minutes walk from Maderas y Olas. You wouldn’t even know it existed if you didn’t drive by it at night, when white lights strung in the trees alert you to its location and the small dirt parking lot. Run by Sergio, a quaint, Italian man who makes only 40 pies per night, and opens only on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Sergio blasts old rock tunes from his computer while he twirls dough in the air, and dances little jigs while making delicious pizza concoctions in his open aired kitchen and traditional brick oven. Economic at only $8-$10 per pie, and with no waitress on staff, Sergio asks you to tally up your pizzas and the drinks that you pull from the refrigerator, and let him know how much you owe him at the end of the night. Funny, but it works! If you want to experience this tasty gem of Nicaragua, be sure to call ahead for reservations (and the number of pizzas you’ll be ordering) at 00505 8814 8530. FYI, one pie per person and you’ll walk away satisfied! After spending a month at Maderas y Olas, it’s comfort engulfed us, and it really began to feel like home. The two bedroom and two baths, made it easy to share with Tio Pa’tio (Uncle Pat) who is the KING of dawn patrolling, and the A/C was a nice blessing to escape the summer heat. We recommend this casa to anyone wanted a true Nicaraguan experience, and close to great surf! Book Maderas y Olas for your next surf vacation, by visiting www.vrbo.com/237311 F
Dan rappels his way down 150ft cliff at Da Flying Frog Adventures
Dinner at Munchies Bluues Photo by: Pat Williams Gabeto, taking some well deserved time off to zip-line at Da Flying Frog Adventures
Dan & Gabeto... ready for PIZZA!
Photos: Gabeto Fernandez
Horseback riding in the mountains with Da Flying Frog Adventures Dan enjoying an afternoon session at Playa Maderas Photo: Gabeto Fernandez
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Surf Stoked . . . Nicaragua
Rancho Santana,
Traveling Nicaragua
Central America
By Sandra Olson Photos courtesy of Rancho Santana
As you’ve been reading, there are many ways to explore Nicaragua. From backpacking hostels, to beach houses, to cute little wooden houses perched high in the hills overlooking the ocean. But there is another way to explore Nicaragua and it’s famous surf-drenched coastline... and it is in absolute LUXURY!
In that case, you’d want to head over to Rancho Santana, a resort style ranch that offers gigantic, beautifully decorated private mansions for groups as large as 20+, as well as smaller bungalow style accommodations, to high-end condos that front the beach... and a little bit of everything in between! Accommodations for every budget, style and taste... But they all have one thing in common. They’re REALLY, REALLY NICE! Rancho Santana is a private ranch that was built in 1997, and consists of 2,700 acres, 2 miles of coastline, and 5 beaches. They have a beautiful ocean view clubhouse that is open to guests, adjacent their picturesque pool overlooking Santana surf break, that offers a comfortable lounge area for reading, a pool table, full bar, and a decadent restaurant that serves exquisite cuisine, made from locally produced organic sources. Not only is it presented beautifully, they’ve also taken seriously the task of supporting the local communities, while educating them.
Photos courtesy of Rancho Santana
Isabelle Delfosse surfing Popoyo Photo by: Dondex Photography | Dondex.com 80 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Isabelle Delfosse, the Surf Center Manager, explains. “One of the great things about Rancho Santana is that we’ve built strong relationships with local fisherman and farmers for our resources”. The ranch boasts a food and beverage program that not only employs, but educates hundreds of local staff members on the importance of integrity and responsibility in agricultural development - and that figure continues to rise as Rancho Santana’s farm program has expanded to include producing eggs from free range chickens as well as grass fed beef”. So when they say from farm to table, they mean it! You can’t get any fresher or more organic that that. When renting a casa, mansion or condo at Rancho Santana, one of the nice things they offer is a grocery service (from this very same food & beverage program). Let them know what you’ll need, and it will be ready and waiting for you upon arrival. Easy!
Rancho Santana
Surfing in Luxu
Rancho Santana Club House Isabelle Delfosse Surf Center Manager
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Epic ocean views as far as the eye can see
oM i ch ae lB
tt ne en
|L igh tH e Im ous aging
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Surf Stoked . . . Nicaragua
Rancho Santana,
Traveling Nicaragua
Central America
Same thing applies to surfing... need a surf guide or transportation to the breaks? They offer that too, and employ local surfers that know the waves and conditions the best. Lenny was our guide during our stay, and didn’t blink an eye when we asked him to pick us up at our condo at 4:30 each morning, so we could be paddling out as the sun first peeked over the horizon. After a short 10 minute drive through the vast ranch, we would walk the beach to Panga Drops in almost darkness, barely able to make out the whitewater of incoming sets. We were there FIRST every morning, and Lenny’s bright smile and accommodating service was unprecedented... as were the EPIC waves. The surf here fires (gently) and it was all we could do to leave it each day to refuel on shore. Rancho Santana offers access to several world class waves, for all levels. Playa Santana is located directly in front of the clubhouse, restaurant and condos, and is a fun beach break. Panga Drops and Colorados- both world class breaks that every surfer should visit, is
One of the many homes available at Rancho Santana (Photos: WSSM) 82 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
just a short drive away, and totally worth it, as is Popoyo, another really fun right and left-hand reef break. Boat trips can be arranged to other surf spots like Lance’s Left, Playgrounds, Manzanillas, and others. Can’t surf anymore? On-site yoga is available in a serene setting, as well as a massage by the sea, horseback rides through the ranch, guided walking tours, gorgeous sunsets, stargazing, and so much more. Once you arrive at Rancho Santana, you really don’t need a thing... they have it all there for you! Forgot something? Toiletries, groceries, munchies? Head to the small store on property that has a surprising variety of essentials and luxuries. Snap a board or leash? Need a surboard rental? Surf lessons? They offer all of that too, on-site! Rancho Santana really is a one-stop, anything you need, luxurious surf destination. Your hardest decision will be WHICH house, mansion, casita or condo you want to stay in ... and how long you get to stay, before returning to reality. Check them out... it will change the way you see Nicaragua! www.ranchosantana.com and contact them with any questions you have or to make a reservation at reservations@ranchosantana.com F
Massages and yoga available Photos courtesy of Rancho Santana
Rancho Santana Clubhouse Photos: Pat Williams
Saffron Van Rossem at Popoyo Photo courtesy of Rancho Santana wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 83
Surf Stoked . . . El Salvador
K59 Surf Resort,
Traveling El Salvador
Central America
By Sandra Olson
When you say you’re headed to El Salvador, K59 is often at the top of the list of breaks to surf. But due to its somewhat exclusive location, reputation for formidable waves, and also that it’s hard to get to, unless you’re staying at one of the few resorts located there, most surfers won’t get the chance.
You’ll see several boats of guys landing when the swell gets epic, but morning hours are yours to enjoy, and once the boats leave-- beautiful sunsets and glassy waves abound. We knew we had to sample this amazing break, that during winter (summer in the US), gets intense! Stories of 25foot waves and a killer current coupled with smashing, heavy barrels, will make even the bravest surfers’ heart lutter when seen in person. Upon arrival at K59 Surf Resort, we had just completed a week of 3 hour, 2x daily surf sessions with our retreat guests, so when Edgard, the owner, informed us of the MASSIVE impending swell, our arms begged us to take safety in the comfortable and quiet rooms at the resort for some much needed down time. Decorated in calming colors, K59’s high quality beds, linens and soft towels were a comfort to us, as we let our bodies heal from the previous weeks intensity.
He was right! The swell got beyond massive... So big in fact, that the quiet bay was completely closing out. During the 3 day swell, guests that would normally be surfing (including us) at the resort would gather, watching the power of the ocean grind against the reef, as only 3 local surfers ventured into its venomous peaks during all 3 days. Venturing out one at a time on different days, we would bet whether they would make it out, and one after the other, they were driven back to shore within 2 sets, not even breaking the crest of the inside. With no rip to take them to the peak, the intensity of the ocean barred them from their goal, returning them to shore, shaking their heads, and standing, gazing in disbelief that they were denied. Edgard warned everyone of the power, and you know that when the OWNER tells you HE isn’t even paddling out because the conditions were so intense, you better listen.
Rancho Santana
Surfing in Luxu
The local girls have K59 dialed IN! Photo: K59 Surf Resort 84 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
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Photo: Gabeto Fernandez Edgard, owner of K59, plays with his son in the oceanfront pool
Simple and comfortable rooms
Time to paddle out! One of two pools available at K59 Surf Resort Photo: Gabeto Fernandez
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Surf Stoked . . . El Salvador
K59 Surf Resort,
Traveling El Salvador
Central America
Instead, we got a really good massage (schedule one, you’ll love it!) and relaxed in absolute comfort at one of their beautiful pools that is perched on the cliffs edge so that you can watch the waves peel by as you soak in its coolness. We enjoyed the simple, delicious mealsincluding banana pancakes, chicken and avocado burritos, homemade spaghetti that was surprisingly decadent, pupusas and a variety of other yummy foods. I am a bit of a coffee-holic, and they quickly learned to keep a hot pot of it ready for me all day. Love them! The World Cup was on, so we would cheer our teams on, as we were interrupted by the occasional gigantic set that would cause us to exclaim... “Did you see that set! It’s getting bigger!”. The swell eventually subsided, and we paddled out to add this iconic wave to our surf map. Even at a smaller size, it still packs a powerful
punch, and we had a blast for the next few days! I can see how if you surfed this wave for a few years, you could really get it dialed in like Edgard has, and know exactly where to take off from, to catch an incredible barrel! January, we hear, is a great time to surf this wave, as more sand gets pushed up on the beach, making it easier to surf and mellowing the wave a bit. We look forward to returning to K59 one day, relaxing on its private beach, exploring the beautiful caves and other nearby surf breaks like K61. Many thanks to Edgard and his excellent staff, for providing such a relaxing environment that truly caters to surfers. No wonder they’ve been in business for almost 15 years... they know what surfers want! Learn more at www.k59surftours.com
Details like this make K59 Surf Resort a pleasure to stay at!
Photo: K59 Surf Resort 86 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
F
Grab a cup of coffee, and head to the palapa to check the surf
Lounge in the pool and watch the sets roll by... Photo: K59 Surf Resort
Photo: K59 Surf Resort wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 87
Community Hawaii Rico Surf Stoked . .. .. .Puerto
El Mirador villa,
Traveling Puerto Rico
Central America
By Sandra Olson | Photos: Gabeto Fernandez
Puerto Rico is an often overlooked gem in Central America, but as a territory of the U.S., it offers the security and comfort that Americans are used to when it comes to traffic, highway signs and markings, restaurants , fast food and shopping, yet offers the carefree freedom of Central America that we also crave. It’s quirkiness is what makes it different, as it’s not uncommon to see a pizza truck or roadside food stand serving up Puerto Rico favorites next door to a Chili’s or a Sams Club, and horses in the back of pickup trucks taking in the view as they’re being transported. But, unlike its neighboring countries, finding medical care and travel essentials is fairly easy, which makes it an attractive and safe destination.
Often dubbed the “surf capital of the Caribbean”, it offers more surf breaks than you can count, and a water temperature that will leave you feeling refreshed and rejuvenated. From punchy beach breaks to reef breaks, to slow rolling carvable walls, Puerto Rico is a surf destination that should be on every surfers list! With multiple coasts offering a variety of waves, the northern coast is famous for Jobos, a fast, right-hand point break that peels off the rock outcropping, and forms walls that will have the more technical surfers snapping turns that will blow your mind. And yes, it gets crowded. It also offers an inside section, with a soft sandy bottom, that is perfect for learning to surf. Simply walk your board back to the (inside) lineup, and you’re ready for another whitewater ride! While there aren’t many home or hotel rentals in this area, a day trip to the northern coast to surf Jobos, Middles, or Secret Spot, is definitely worth the short drive.
The North-West coast (Aguadilla area) is famous for surf that is more sheltered from the wind than the Jobos area, as well as BIG wave surfing when it’s in season. It also catches the wrap from the North swells, making it a favorable destination for those looking for less crowded surf. Wilderness, Surfers Beach, Crashboat and Bridges are some of the more famous spots that are suitable for all levels of surfing, but you’ll also find barrel-grinding breaks in between these more mellow gems such as Gas Chambers, that are tucked along the coastline. Due to the variety of these consistent surf breaks and close proximity to the Aguadilla airport (Rafael Hernandez International), surfers will find Aguadilla a solid choice for uncrowded surf, dining, and lodging. Aguadilla is also where you’ll find the new WSSM Surf House, offering bed & breakfast options, as well as all-inclusive surf trips (www.wssmsurhouse.com)
Rancho Santana
Surfing in Luxu
Sunset at Wilderness 90 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Michelle Olson learns to surf in the easy waves at (inside) Jobos
Moonrise over Desecheo island in Rincon
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Jobos, North Shore
Yes, that really is a horse in the back of a pickup truck
Dan at Domes, in Rincon wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 91
Surf Stoked . . . Puerto Rico
El Mirador villa,
Traveling Puerto Rico
Central
Head further West, and you’ll be in the heart of the surfing capital... world famous Rincon! Reminiscent of the North shore of Oahu 40 years ago, vehicles loaded with surfers and boards dot the roads, small eateries entice you, and surf break after surf break makes it a tantalizing drive as you determine your surf destination for each day. Maria’s is a beautiful and popular wave that you HAVE to surf if you’re on this side of PR. While it does get crowded, it offers several takeoff points which will help you score waves. Tres Palmas is famous for GIGANTIC surf on big swells, and Domes-- our personal favorite-- is a super fun right hand point break that is close to shore, and offers long workable walls on the right swell, as well as the occasional barrel. Now... where to stay? There are LOTS of lodging options in Rincon, so finding a place isn’t too hard. It all depends on your budget, and which break you want to be closest to.
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We were lucky enough to score a reservation at El Mirador Villa, a beautiful two story, two unit villa, located in the Puntas area of Rincon. From their spacious balconies, you can watch whales jumping and spectacular sunsets over Desecheo island, as well as enjoy amenities such as air-conditioning, wi-fi, cable, and a surround
Spectacular sunsets are an everyday blessing in Puerto Rico | Domes, Rincon Photo: Gabeto Fernandez 92 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
By Sandra Olson
sound stereo system. Located within walking distance to several great beaches like Pools, Sandys, and Parking Lots, El Mirador Villa is also very close to many restaurants and nightlife, making it a perfect choice for those wanting quiet accommodations- with access to vacation essentials and attractions. What we enjoyed about this casa was that there was no need to eat out every meal because El Mirador Villa offers a fully stocked kitchen. Cooking your own meals here after a quick visit to the grocery store is a breeze, and you’ll love the view as you sit outside on the deck, watching the sets peal by below on a good swell. Rent the entire villa for your large groups, or just half, and you’re in for a great night’s sleep, comfortable accommodations and quick access to some of the best surf breaks in Rincon! Learn more about El Mirador Villa by visiting www.elmiradorpr.com Overall, Puerto Rico is a convenient and close surf destination for Americans because dollars are their monetary system, no passport is required- therefore no customs checks, and English is widely spoken. It is very surfer-friendly, with most car rental companies in the Aguadilla area offering surf racks, and will make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. So next time you’re making exotic surf trip plans, check out the freedom and safety that Puerto Rico offers, and enjoy it’s warm tropical waters and super fun surf. You won’t be disappointed! F
The view at El Mirador Villa
El Mirador Villa in Rincon
Cooking at El Mirador Villa is a pleasure in this beautiful kitchen
Outside terrace in the upper unit
Comfortable accommodations at El Mirador Villa await you
Sandra enjoying Wilderness Photo: Gabeto Fernandez wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 93
SURFING Saved Yoga
... Continued from page 66
success under my belt, little by little, I begin to relax into surfing. I begin to let go when the waves roll me. I begin to try to start totally fresh with every wave. I begin to try to find space and calmness in the rush of catching a wave. I begin to alchemize my apprehension into anticipation every morning. Surfing becomes my place where I play, where I dance with fear, where I practice living. Where I find my edge and peer over it. Where I desire and lust and get grumpy and frustrated and cold and excitable and FEEL things. Where the water engages me, gets me to stop thinking about meaningless things. Stuff like if so and so likes me and what my next meal will be... it just makes me scream with all of my heart: it is so beautiful out here. Yoga reappears - only as surfing’s humble support staff. I go back to my physical practice for the sole purpose of getting stronger for surfing. And I feel guilty all over again - this time for relegating yoga to the base role of fitness - after all, it’s so much more than that. It saved my life! Yet here I am, cheating on yoga. I have dropped yoga for surfing. And all of a sudden I realize, I totally have been doing yoga the whole time! Surfing is my yoga. #mindblown (No, actually not, because deep down I knew this, but just had to articulate it in a way that would pacify my analytical self. Hence this exposition.) Moreover, my life is my yoga. I’ve done what yoga instructors all tell you to do at the end of class - to take your yoga “off the mat” and into your life. I’m actually practicing yoga like a boss when I’m surfing. The whole reason I’m surfing in the first place is because of my ninja yoga training! Without tapas, I would have quit after my first time out. Without all of my practice on the mat, I would never have had the patience or the wisdom to “get” surfing. I never would have had the mental capacity to lean into my fear and even, strangely, begin to enjoy it. Surfing now fulfills the need that yoga once did - it’s a life simulator and a place of sweetness and replenishment for me - it is the “mat” that resonates most deeply with me now. Being outside. The lifeblood in the waves. An awakening, a rebirth. A place to conquer my fears and grow deep. Surfing is a different kind of practice, less tidy and sweet. It’s wild and scary, and quite frankly, super addictive. It is healing. Playing on the waves is the ultimate, a reminder of the power and deliciousness of the universe. Surfing is also a continuation of the work that yoga started. It is moving further down the path of living life with love, not fear, with openness, not blindness. I still do “traditional” asana yoga - I do it to create space and release tension that builds through other more repetitive and aggressive motions, like paddling and running. I no longer feel guilty and like a “bad yogi” if I don’t do an asana practice for a long time, though. And I no longer feel guilty if my asana practice is purely a physical exercise, and nothing “deeper.” These days, my yoga is found in the meditations I do in my car. The way I hold space for my loved ones. The way I lean into fears and residual eating disorder cravings and anxieties. The way I see a wealth of beauty and grace around me. The way I keep surfing. The way I weave my sanity through the waves. I practice on a daily basis. I am a yogi - good or bad has no meaning here - there is only yogi or not. And I am. Out of all the things I learned from surfing, it taught me this truth that I’m writing down now, this truth that has dispelled all my anxieties about how I’ve been “treating” yoga. I don’t need to “do” yoga. And the yoga I do doesn’t need to “look” a certain way. We all have our own path, and we all have an ever-changing dynamic identity that is constantly presenting new challenges, new needs, new desires. Anytime we self identify with a label or a quality, we run the risk of dragging that static characteristic along with us long after we’ve evolved. I need to let my old idea of yoga go. My identity as a certain kind of yogi - let it go. Yoga has changed my life, no question. It literally made surfing possible for me (and a thousand more things). However, now my practice has moved - off the mat and down my path - wherever that leads, who knows. And I have surfing to thank for showing me this. Surfing saved my yoga - or more accurately, shone the light on it in just the right way. What else will the waves show me? Gettin’ my wetsuit - and gonna go find out! F
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El Mirador Villa Rincon, PR
www.elmiradorpr.com elmirador@yahoo.com 201-401-9180
18 21’ 40.50” N 67 15’ 52.5” W