Letter's From The Arctic

By: Rose McInerney

Light streamed through the open vent at the top of our red tent, rousing me to wake.

A light layer of frost had formed over my eyebrows as I rubbed my face.

Photo credit: Sargeant, Shilo Adamson

My balaclava was soaked, warning me to find a better way to vent the moisture from my breathing at night. And a hat – I had forgotten to cover my tingling exposed ears with a hat. Dangerously dumb.

We had arrived in the dark the night before after a bumpy four hour ride to this first campsite. The sun was a welcome precursor to Day One at the top of the Akshayuk Pass.

Another seven nights to go. I wiggled my toes nestled warmly at the bottom of my sleeping bag. Filled with excitement, the daunting 100 km trail lay ahead as I said goodbye to all the comforts of home and predictability.

And so our journey began, across the Arctic in the foreboding frozen tundra of Baffin Island.

Mt. Thor

Pulling on my ski pants, I hurried to preserve the warmth from my two layers of tights as I slipped my feet clumsily into my Baffin boots. I made my way outside searching for a place to relieve myself; somewhere away from the tent but not too far to stress my already screaming bladder.

I would look back fondly at the pureness of that first morning. It was devoid of blisters and frostnip fingers, sore legs and secretive doubts, as I stepped into the blinding whiteness surrounding our campsite.

I stared up at the granite cliffs with their frothy peaks, a tall witness to Mother Nature’s ancient hands. It felt good to inhale the very palpable spiritual display of Her prowess.

Carved within this immeasurable beauty of the Arctic were glacier beds, fiords and frozen lakes. The vastness made our camp seem incredibly small, wrapped in the majesty of this desolation.

As one of seventeen civilian business leaders and military veterans, an all-women group, we were traveling

from April 1st through April 14th, 2019. We had spent four days getting to Auyuittuq National Park with the help of five well-versed guides and months of rigorous physical training and mental preparation. The plan - to spend eight nights and nine days snowshoeing in this vast wilderness.

The Akshayuk Pass sits on the ancient Penny Ice Cap and connects the northern town of Qikiqtarjuaq and southern town of Pangnirtung. Komatik sleds pulled by snowmobiles and driven by Inuit guides take people to the park entrances over rough forbidding terrains of rock and ice, and frigid temperatures ranging from -10 to -40 C.

For centuries, Canada’s Inuit people have enjoyed a deep emotional connection to the land. The military women on the trek come from across Canada and all military branches, including the Army, Navy, and Airforce. After meeting months earlier at three training camps, our group became fast friends and shared the challenges of balancing family, gender discrimination and job-related difficulties.

The purpose of our adventure was to experience this rare opportunity to experience the North but also to raise critical financial support and awareness about the needs of Canadian military veterans and their families.

The proceeds from our funding efforts targeted True Patriot Love (TPL), a nonprofit organization providing health and mental wellness support programs for Canadian veterans and their families.

Of the 658,000 veterans currently serving in the Canadian Armed Forces (CAF), many experience service-related injuries during and after their tours of duty; more specifically, Operational Stress Injury/Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder (OSI/PTSD) and other forms of physical and mental health trauma. The need for support is just as great in the U.S. and abroad.

Walking the Pass with our 50-pound sleds brimming with gear, food and tent equipment necessary for bitterly cold days and nights, we witnessed first-hand the survival challenges veterans face with food rations, harsh physical and mental conditions, and the need for adaptability. To date, our group has proudly raised over $900,000 in donations for TPL.

Despite all of the best training and well-made plans, the trek was difficult, both physically and emotionally. We struggled to stay warm for prolonged periods of time and the exposure to the cold after that sunny first morning felt nothing short of relentless.

Within hours of strapping on our snowshoes and leaving camp, white-out conditions rolled in making it difficult to see anything beyond the person in front of each of us. We walked in single file but an immediate feeling of isolation took over as my fear of falling behind became my primary focus.

Base Camp at Mt. Thor

Each day brought new weather conditions, the unexpected and adjustments. We forged ahead to Owl River and cut a path across June Valley and Glacier Bay, stretching our physical limitations. The toughest day was Tuesday, April 9th, snowshoeing nearly 20 km and crossing Summit Lake.

The military women excelled at mental and physical toughness, frequently leading our group when monotony and exhaustion set in.

In daily rituals like putting up tents, gathering ice and snow to melt for our water supply or helping boost morale, they were incredible. When a sleds caught on a rock or tipped over in harsh elements and tested the group’s resilience, these struggles were building blocks for great conversations about leadership, character. friendship and learning.

Nearing the end of our trek, just before we arrived in Pangnirtung, we met a group of expeditioners from Japan on the trail. We hugged and shared in the joy of our common experience and strength. It was a precursor to the bond we established with our people of Nunavutians who welcomed us when we completed the Pass

The Mayor, local and Junior Rangers, police servicemen, and the Inuit community came out to greet us when we arrived. They prepared a cultural celebration of local foods, including fresh Char fish and seal. Our conversations within the community exposed how difficult life is in Nunavut and some of the challenges maintaining culture and survival in a new age.

Visiting the Arctic changed the way I see the world. It will forever be an indelible source of great pride and proof that anything is possible when we face fear and stretched beyond what we imagine for ourselves. And to the military service men and women who protect us, thank you for your bravery, dedication and commitment to preserving our liberties and our freedom.