Luxe List 2011

Japan EasE a modern ikebana arrangement adds an avant-garde touch to a suite at Kyoto’s design-driven Hotel Kanra.

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It’s bEEn anothEr bIg yEar for hotEL opEnIngs In thE asIa-pacIfIc rEgIon, bUt what makEs onE propErty morE LUXE than anothEr? basEd on rEports from oUr nEtwork of contrIbUtors, wE’vE assEmbLEd a LIst of 36 pLacEs that EXcEL whEn It comEs to styLE and ambIEncE, bE It a rambLIng IndIan paLacE or a prIvatE vILLa In thE hILLs of chIang maI. thoUgh wILdLy dIffErEnt In tErms of sIzE, prIcE, and Look, thEy aLL havE onE thIng In common: a sIngULar sEnsE of pLacE and styLE that LEts thEm stand oUt from thE rEst

78 — DESTINASIAN.com — december 2011/january 2012

Top-End TibET In the lobby of the St. regis Lhasa resort, the Himalayan city’s first luxury hotel.

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chIna Four seasons Hotel, Hangzhou at West Lake, Hangzhou Hotel icon, Hong Kong Hotel indigo shanghai on the bund, Shanghai pullman Lijiang Resort & spa, Lijiang Renaissance sanya Resort & spa, Hainan Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, Hong Kong st. Regis Lhasa Resort, Tibet Waldorf astoria shanghai on the bund, Shanghai frEnch poLynEsIa Maitai Lapita Village, Huahine IndIa devi Ratn, Jaipur Leela palace Kempinski, New Delhi Rasa Jaipur, Jaipur samode safari Lodge, Bandhavgarh saratha Villas, Chettinad Taj Falaknuma palace, Hyderabad The oberoi, Gurgaon, New Delhi IndonEsIa W Retreat & spa bali - seminyak, Bali japan Capitol Hotel Tokyu, Tokyo Hotel Kanra, Kyoto st. Regis osaka, Osaka Laos Kiridara, Luang Prabang maLaysIa Muntri Mews, Penang maLdIvEs anantara Kihavah Villas, Ba’a Atoll six senses Laamu, Laamu Atoll sIngaporE Hotel Fort Canning taIwan W Taipei, Taipei thaILand Hansar bangkok, Bangkok Howie’s Homestay, Chiang Mai st. Regis bangkok, Bangkok Thanyamundra organic Resort, Khao Sok W Retreat Koh samui, Koh Samui UnItEd arab EmIratEs one&only The palm, Dubai vIEtnam an Lam ninh Van bay Villas, Nha Trang Fusion Maia, Danang Hotel de l’opera, Hanoi six senses Con dao, Con Dao 80 — DESTINASIAN.com — december 2011/january 2012

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st. Regis Lhasa Resort, Lhasa, Tibet

COURTESY OF ST. REGIS LHASA; LEISA TYLER. OPPOSITE: COURTESY OF MAITAI LAPITA VILLAGE; LEISA TYLER. PREVIOUS SPREAD: FRÉDÉRIC LAGRANGE

naTuRaL oRdER a Gond mural in the bathroom of a Samode Safari Lodge villa, right. below: bungalows at maitai Lapita Village. Opposite, from top: The reception desk at Hotel Icon; St. regis Lhasa.

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Maitai Lapita Village, Huahine, Tahiti

It’s only a 25-minute flight form bora bora, but arriving at huahine, easternmost of the Leeward Islands, is like stepping back in time. graciously overlooked by the hordes of honeymooners who flock to other tahitian landfalls, huahine has retained its “island” character, which is why the maitai hotel chain chose it for the site of tahiti’s first brandnew resort in years. set on three hectares of beachfront land, the Lapita features 32 voluminous, smartly appointed bungalows arranged around a lily-padded lake. It also capitalizes on huahine’s rich archeological heritage to offer a cultural experience akin to a living museum. the bar is shaped like one of the many whalebone fishhooks unearthed on the island; the bungalows are based on traditional designs and peppered with tribal art; and a gallery in the foyer displays clay, stone, and wood artifacts.

689/688-080; maitaihuahine .evosuite.com; doubles from US$330

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samode safari Lodge, Bandhavgarh National Park situated at the edge of madhya pradesh’s bandhavgarh national park, this lodge is the latest creation from the samode family, whose properties include the majestic samode palace outside jaipur. a dozen rammed-earth villas are furnished with persian carpets, four-poster beds, murals by local gond artists, and big balconies overlooking the adjacent scrub where birds, deer, and sometimes even tigers can be spotted. there is a pool with shaded pavilions for lazy afternoons, and a dining terrace where champagne breakfasts are served under an enormous mahua tree. borrow the resort’s mountain bikes for a ride through the nearby villages, or book a jeep safari into the 450-square-kilometer national park. samode’s guides access the reserve via its remote kothi gate; if you’re lucky, you may not see another tourist all day.

Bandhavgarh; 91-141/263-2370; samode.com; doubles from US$882

at 3,680 meters above sea level, tibet’s first luxury resort commands unimpeded views of the himalayas and the Lhasa valley. the nearby sera monastery provided inspiration for the resort’s central pool and courtyard, meditation gardens, and pagoda-style buildings, but there’s nothing monastic about what lies within. a six-meter-high velvet curtain sweeps aside to usher guests into a lobby framed by soaring red lacquer columns and lined with picture windows that look across the valley to the potala palace, former winter residence of the dalai Lama. Expansive guest rooms—the smallest is 61 square meters—come complete with huge, pillowy beds and bathrooms with heated slate floors (each is also fitted with an oxygen canister, for those who find the high-altitude setting literally breathtaking). the height of extravagance, however, is to be found in the resort’s Iridium spa, where guests can unwind in a heated, gold-tiled pool.

22 Jiangsu Rd.; 86-891/680-8888; stregis.com; doubles from US$597

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Hotel icon, Hong Kong this sleek tower in the former triad territory of East tsim sha tsui was a government dormitory before an all-star cast of architects and designers reinvented it as a 262-room five-star hotel and hospitality school for hong kong polytechnic University. rocco yim was responsible for the building’s shell, william Lim crafted the interiors, terence conran oversaw the look of the restaurants (which include a 28th-floor cantonese dining room), and fashion doyenne vivienne tan pieced together the premier suite. the soaring glass atrium is the first “wow” feature to greet guests; the space includes an18-meter-high vertical garden patterned with local plants. only a block from victoria harbour, most rooms have views of hong kong Island, as well as all the requisite mod cons, including espresso machines and free minibars. and don’t think the Icon’s double life as a hospitality school means trainee-level service: with almost three paid staff to every two guests, service is unfailingly efficient and chirpy.

17 Science Museum Rd., East Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon; 852/ 3400-1688; hotel-icon.com; doubles from US$226

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one&only The palm, Dubai

971-4/440-1010; oneandonly resorts.com; doubles from US$966

GRand dEsiGns a beach villa at the One&Only The Palm, left. below: Poolside at Luang Prabang’s Kiridara.

Opposite: a horse-drawn carriage at Taj Falaknuma Palace recalls the property’s nizamera glory days.

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Kiridara, Luang Prabang

world heritage–listed Luang prabang is anything but frenzied, yet this 24-room hillside retreat just outside town nonetheless feels like a refuge. finished in stone and polished wood, the spacious guest quarters open onto balconies or private gardens that look out to the city’s most famous buddhist site, mount phou si. though the staff lack experience, they compensate for that with genuine, heartfelt effort and dedication. good western and Lao fare is available at kiridara’s sole restaurant, while the infinity pool above makes an ideal perch for sipping lychee martinis. farther up the hill is a spa where expertly trained therapists perform locally inspired treatments like the nuat bouhan, which combines traditional Lao massage with thai stretching, shiatsu, and acupressure. Even better, all sessions begin with 15 blissful minutes in a teakclad steam room infused with organic herbs like lemongrass and eucalyptus.

22/13 North Rd., Ban Naviengkham; 856-71/261-888; kiridara.com; doubles from US$120

Taj Falaknuma palace, Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh once the residence of the sixth nizam of hyderabad, falaknuma palace is an extravagant medley of 19thcentury European design, with renaissance, art deco, and baroque elements woven in. set on a stony knoll overlooking hyderabad, the sprawling white palace was derelict and falling apart before undergoing a meticulous decade-long restoration at the hands of India’s taj hotel group. guests now arrive by horse-drawn carriage, sleep in one of 60 period-furnished guest rooms, and in the evenings, watch tribal dances on the elaborately canopied gole terrace. but the real star of the show here is the ornate main palace building, which guests are free to use as their private living quarters, taking high tea in the jade room—a dazzling sweep of geometric parquet floors and lime-green walls—or flipping through antiquarian books in the carved-walnut library. ask to sit in king george v’s favorite chair—the british monarch was one of many royals who bunked here in falaknuma’s heyday.

Engine Bowli; 91-40/66298585; tajhotels.com; doubles from US$765

84 — DESTINASIAN.com — december 2011/january 2012

COURTESY OF ONE&ONLY THE PALM; COURTESY OF KIRIDARA; FRÉDÉRIC LAGRANGE

It’s been a bumpy start for palm jumeirah, the man-made archipelago that opened with great fanfare off dubai’s coastline in 2006, only to stall amid the emirate’s economic downturn. but the debut of the one&only the palm—the development’s first resort since the 2008 opening of the atlantis—signals better times ahead. choose to arrive by land in a limousine, or by sea in your own private water taxi. the low-rise property, designed less like a hotel than a compound built for moorish royalty, features secluded rooms that are located in a re-created residential environment of “mansions,” a three-story “manor house,” and four beachfront villas. still, no matter how chilled the vibe, the one&only maintains a measure of dubai flash: the couple’s spa suite is a seven-room oasis complete with private hammam. round out the day watching the sun set over the dubai skyline at one of three waterfront restaurants, whose menus have been designed by michelinstarred chef yannick alléno.

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W Retreat Koh samui, Koh Samui

a fortress of black slate with sunken lounges and a sky-blue infinity pool, w hotels’ first thai outpost is an arresting sight. Even so, what wows most guests when they arrive in the lobby is not the cool design features, but the view. perched on a hilltop at the quiet end of bophut beach, the resort boasts vistas that stretch as far as neighboring koh phangan. most of the 75 pool villas here are arranged in a grid beachside or on the hill; book an ocean view Escape for the best outlook. bangkok-based design firm p49 fashioned the interiors using tones of charcoal and red, with beanbag chairs, glittery cushions, eggshaped baths, and plunge pools. sip, the beachside bar, is another highlight, as much for its cocktails and party vibe as for its sea views, which can also be savored at the japanese-inspired restaurant next door.

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Muntri Mews, George Town, Penang

sTiLL WaTERs The lagoon at an Lam ninh Van bay Villas. Top right: a room at muntri mews. Opposite: W retreat Koh Samui’s Kitchen Table restaurant; the colonial-era facade of Hotel Fort canning.

4/1 Moo 1, Tambol Maenam; 86-77/915-999; starwoodhotels.com; doubles from US$554

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Hotel Fort Canning

11 Canning Walk; 65/6559-6770; hfcsingapore.com; doubles from US$255 86 — DESTINASIAN.com — december 2011/january 2012

cHrISTOPHer HILL (Far LeFT); jaSOn mIcHaeL LanG. OPPOSITe: cOurTeSy OF an Lam nInH Van bay VILLaS; LeISa TyLer

since hotel fort canning debuted on the grounds of the historic fort canning park, just five minutes by taxi from orchard road and the financial district, it has been possible to bed down in lush tropical surrounds without stepping out of the city. housed in a 1920s building that once served as offices of the british far East command, hotel fort canning has been carefully restored over a three-year period to the grandeur of a colonial mansion, with much of the original architecture—including the colonnaded facade—kept intact. all 86 neutral-toned guest rooms sport lofty ceilings, spacious marble-clad bathrooms, 400-thread-count Egyptian cotton sheets, and silk-swathed headboards. the ground-floor rooms come with private patios and outdoor daybeds; but for views of fort canning’s foliage, book a park-facing room on the upper floors. the guest lounge serves complimentary nespresso coffee and twg teas throughout the day, with a free flow of wines thrown in at dusk. for dinner, don’t miss the “sicilian sashimi” at gattopardo.

an Lam ninh Van bay Villas, Nha Trang

nestled against thickly forested slopes on a crescent of golden sand, this 35villa getaway lets you play castaway without sacrificing an iota of comfort. beachfront and lagoon-facing villas have uninterrupted views over ninh van bay, while the deliciously cloistered three-story hill rock villas—set at a higher elevation—enjoy ocean vistas filtered through the forest canopy. rooms are decorated in a modern vietnamese style and packed with high-tech goodies; they also come with outdoor bathtubs, plunge pools, and butlers. wine tastings are held on specially built platforms in the treetops, accessible by spiral staircase or rope bridge. Even the spa capitalizes on the robinson crusoe setting—it’s located in a forest clearing, above the swirling eddies of a fresh-water stream.

penang-born hotelier christopher ong’s third hotel started life in the 19th century as a stables and coach house for carriages serving george town’s wealthy chinese families, many of whom resided on muntri street. the twostory clapboard building was brought back to life with a cream-and-charcoal exterior and nine simple (and wellpriced) whitewashed suites finished with four-poster beds, art deco accents, and quirky details like tea trays from 1960s penang. In keeping with ong’s push to cut plastics from his hotels, there are no minibars or bottled water in the rooms, though flasks of purified water are supplied. a roadside café serves local street-food dishes such as rich beef rendang and creamy lemak laksa. the afternoon tea service is also a treat, featuring home-cooked peranakan desserts presented on antique crockery. try the pulut inti, made from steamed blue pea flower and glutinous rice, or the kuih ketayap (pandanflavored crepes).

77 Muntri St.; 60-4/263-5125; muntrimews.com; doubles from US$95

Hon Heo Peninsula; 84-583/624-777; epikurean.ws; villas from US$360 december 2011/january 2012 — DESTINASIAN.com — 87

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anantara Kihavah Villas, Ba’a Atoll

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MaKinG an EnTRanCE color-changing light panels set a modern mood in the lobby of Hotel Kanra, right. bottom: The main beach at anantara Kihavah Villas. Opposite: a teak-paneled bedroom at Thanyamundra Organic resort.

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Thanyamundra organic Resort, Khao Sok the hoots of lar gibbons serve as your wakeup call at this boutique retreat, located two hours north of phuket at the edge of khao sok national park. thanyamundra can arrange guided treks through the nearby rain forest—it’s among the world’s oldest—or more sedate activities, such as morning tours of southern thailand’s only certified organic farm, led by a charismatic, multilingual gardener who’s proud to show off his fruit trees and neatly planted rows of aromatic thai and Italian basil, dill, coriander, snake beans, rocket lettuce, and morning glory. alternatively, join one of the resort’s relaxed cooking classes, conducted over glasses of biodynamic wine in a shiny show kitchen. there are only nine rooms and suites here, housed in a pair of contemporary, thai-inspired villas and filled with antiques, silk accents, and modern amenities. perhaps just as compelling is the 50-meterlong hilltop infinity pool or, for those looking to workout on nature’s doorstep, the junglefacing gym. thanyamundra also has its holistic side, hosting regularly scheduled weekend retreats led by legendary Ironman jürgen zäck and former amanresorts yogi kimberly roberts.

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Hotel Kanra, Kyoto

the japanese have a word for it: shibui. It refers to a restrained, timeless quality of beauty, or, as is the case at this 29-room inn, just the right amount of cool. an eight-minute walk from kyoto station, hotel kanra is already a hit with design-minded hipsters on the lookout for a chic downtown pied-à-terre that leaves your bank balance as well as your street cred intact. Expect a clever hybrid of traditional ryokan elements—sliding paper screens, tatami and stone flooring—and high-tech functionality with ipod-friendly sound systems, ambient lighting, and ingenious storage systems that utilize every inch of space. a dozen deluxe rooms, modeled after the elongated kyoto townhouses known as unagi no nedoko (“eel’s nest”), feel spacious despite the narrow layout, and their cedar soaking tubs are a godsend after a weary day of sightseeing. the kanra suite goes one step further with its own sunset-facing outdoor rotenburo bath.

185 Kitamachi, Karasuma-dori Rokujo-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku; 81-75/344-3815; hotelkanra.jp; doubles from US$300

the six-course seasonal degustation menu at sea gets high marks, but it’s the restaurant’s location, under water at the edge of the fishfilled house reef, that makes it a dining experience not to be missed at this 78-villa hideaway. occupying a beach-ringed isle in the ba’a atoll, 35 minutes by seaplane from male’s international airport, anantara kihavah is also just a short sail from the UnEsco-protected lagoon of hanifaru bay, where manta rays congregate by the hundreds. take inspiration from the kaleidoscopic marine life at daily painting classes with the resort’s artist in residence, and watch more fish swim by under the glass floors of the overwater spa, where thai and balinese therapists deliver exceptional treatments. the resort’s overwater pool villas provide instant access to the Indian ocean and expansive decks for sunning or yoga, but for those who love to feel the sand between their toes or who are traveling with small children, the beach villas, also with their own swimming pools, are a better option.

Kihavah Huravalhi Island; 960/660-1020; anantara.com; doubles from US$1,350 The Luxe List continues on page 133

66-76/336-000; thanyamundra .com; doubles from US$150 december 2011/january 2012 — DESTINASIAN.com — 89

2011 LUXE LIST cOnTInued FrOm PG. 89

theme, Quay club lounge on the sixth floor offers a library, comfy couches, imacs, and café refreshments, while the char bar and grill on the 29th and 30th floors evokes the glamor of old shanghai. standing on the hotel’s high-rise river terrace after dark is to witness a visual compression of the city’s past, present, and future (585 Zhongshan Dong Er Lu; 86-21/3302-9999; shanghai .hotelindigo.com; doubles from US$186).

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pullman Lijiang Resort & spa , Lijiang high in the mountains of yunnan province, pullman Lijiang resort & spa takes cues from local naxi villages, with wing-tipped roofs, meandering courtyards, and reflection pools set against the moody majesty of jade dragon snow mountain. behind high, gray brick walls, the 79 sprawling villas up the luxe factor with mod-chinese furnishings, huge granite bathrooms with cozy heated floors, and comfy living and study quarters separated by carved wooden screens. glass doors slide open to a private stone courtyard where you can enjoy a meal prepared by one of the hotel’s chefs, or a dip in a hot tub overlooking the glacier-capped mountain peaks by day and the endless galaxy of stars at night. take a rickety cable car to the 4,608-meter summit of jade dragon snow mountain, explore the nearby world heritage–listed old towns of Lijiang, or venture farther afield to tiger Leaping gorge. afterward, bliss out in the delightful mandara spa, set in its own walled pavilions, with treatments using yunnan coffee beans, ginseng, yak milk, and lavender gathered from the surrounding mountains (Shuhe Old Town Entrance Rd.; 86-888/530-0111; pullman-lijiang.com; doubles from US$260).

Four seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake , Hangzhou set right on the shores of the willow-fringed west Lake, and a mere hop, skip, and jump from hangzhou’s famous attractions, four seasons hangzhou epitomizes the charm of the classic chinese city that enchanted emperors and artists for centuries. Imagine being a part of a chinese watercolor painting as you wander the manicured bonsai gardens, traditional rockeries, and sun-dappled pagodas, against the mistlaced backdrop of the lake. relax in one of the 78 spacious, wood-paneled guest rooms —each serviced by a personal butler—that open to a terrace conservatory with vistas of waterfalls and forested glades. for a high-class dining experience, head to jin sha, which specializes in chinese cuisine, and features 11 comfortable pavilions surrounding a garden lagoon, or spoil yourself with a jade spring ritual at the imperial-style spa, which involves a soak in a golden mosaic tub containing 60,000 hangzhou dragon well tea leaves (5 Lingyin Lu; 86-571/8829-8888; four seasons.com; doubles from US$394).

Hotel indigo shanghai on the bund,

Shanghai Located at shiliupu dock, this south bund hotel’s river-themed art and design emphasizes the importance of the dockside in the history of shanghai’s development. rising 30 floors above the huangpu river’s west bank, asia’s first hotel Indigo offers sweeping skyline views, eclectic art installations and outsized photos of bund area street scenes. the 184 whitewashed rooms feature wall murals of chinese pavilions, hanging lanterns, dragon-motif rugs, and blue-and-white mosaic-tiled bathrooms. organic bayankaLa toiletries and tea leaves sourced from hangzhou add neat local touches. continuing the dock 154 — DESTINASIAN.com — december 2011/january 2012

Renaissance sanya Resort & spa,Hainan fronting the 17-kilometer-long vanilla sand crescent of haitang bay, the renaissance sanya is one of the first deluxe hotels to open on the forested mid-east coast of china’s hainan Island. the one-hour transfer from sanya phoenix International airport is quickly forgotten as you motor past a cascading waterfall and fire torches leading to the hotel’s cavernous 14-meter-high lobby. from here, the open vista overlooks serpentine lagoon pools (illuminated at night by underwater LEd fairy lights), lush tropical gardens, and some of the south china sea’s best dive

spots. the minimal-chic guest rooms start at a roomy 58 square meters and step out to spacious oceanfront balconies. but with so much entertainment on offer within the resort, you might be forgiven for not spending much time in your quarters. from the seven restaurants and bars (including a seaside seafood pavilion and an English pub with karaoke rooms) to a gaming arcade with its own 10-pin bowling alley, cinema, wii console, and snooker table, the renaissance has something to suit every age and taste (1 Yezhou Rd., Haitang Bay, Sanya; 86-898/3885-8888; marriott.com; doubles from US$220).

Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, Hong Kong rising to a dizzying 490 meters above the west kowloon waterfront, the world’s highest hotel occupies the top 17 floors of the International commerce centre, itself the world’s fourth tallest building. all 312 rooms and suites provide vertiginous views of victoria harbor or the kowloon peninsula, along with goose-down duvets, leather headboards, lacewood paneling, and onyx sinks. the hotel’s 102nd-floor restaurant level, crafted by tokyo’s spin design studio to such dazzling effect that the decor competes with the panorama filling the double-height windows, includes top-notch cantonese and Italian dining rooms; 14 floors up, the ambience is considerably more sedate at the hotel’s mineral-toned Espa spa. crowning it all is ozone, a sleek rooftop bar where cocktails are sipped to mind-blowing vistas— providing the tower isn’t enveloped in clouds (1 Austin Rd. West, Kowloon; 852/22632263; ritzcarlton.com; doubles from US$772).

Waldorf astoria shanghai on the bund , Shanghai built in 1911 on the bund waterfront, the gentlemen-only shanghai club was the most exclusive private club in the city’s “pearl of the orient” heyday. a century later, asia’s first waldorf astoria has updated this neo-classic beauty for travelers with a taste for old-world charm. styled with updated vintage glamor, the towering white marble columns, spiral staircase, and oak-paneled lounges have been faithfully restored. the 20 heritage suites boast canopied beds and superlative river views (the best is from room 304). peacock alley, a two-story promenade of deluxe dining and lounging, december 2011/january 2012 — DESTINASIAN.com — 133

2011 LUXE LIST inspired by the original waldorf-astoria in new york, connects the old building with the new tower at the back. more alluring still is the legendary Long bar, meticulously restored with jacobean wooden walls, sepiatinged portraits, dark leather sofas, and a replica of the famed 24-meter marble bar (plus a new oyster counter). a stiff drink here remains a shanghai rite of passage (2 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu; 86-21/6322-9988; waldorfastoria.com; doubles from US$315).

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devi Ratn, Jaipur fusing the opulence of India’s heritage hotels with a sophisticated, contemporary aesthetic, this boutique gem outside jaipur is the latest venture by mother-and-son team Lekha and anupam poddar, who also oversaw the restoration of Udaipur’s devi garh palace. this time starting from scratch, the duo drew inspiration from rajasthan’s history as a center of gemstone cutting, and from the nearby 18th-century observatory of jantar mantar. jewel-toned rooms, intricate inlays and latticework, and striking arched and domed red sandstone structures are a nod to local heritage. Luxe features such as the terrazzo floors and black riverstone bathrooms wouldn’t be out of place in the region’s most sophisticated cities. a spa

by L’occitane offers both mediterranean treatments and bespoke therapies using local ingredients, and adds some decidedly cosmopolitan allure (91-141/305-0211; deviresorts.in; doubles from US$585).

Leela palace new delhi, New Delhi a confection of neoclassical and mughal elements inspired by the grand architecture of Lutyens’ delhi, the Leela palace makes it easy for guests to feel like royalty. the sumptuous interiors feature gold-leafed domes, Italian chandeliers, and hand-woven carpets, as well as an extensive collection of Indian and international art. Equipped with the latest technology, the hotel’s 260 rooms and suites are billed as some of the largest in the city; they’re certainly among the most well appointed. come mealtime, you have a choice of four venues, including jamavar, the hotel’s signature Indian dining room, and a branch of new york’s Le cirque restaurant. rounding out the picture are the clubby Library bar and a beautifully designed Espa spa where demure therapists 134 — DESTINASIAN.com — december 2011/january 2012

offer a host of ayurvedic-inspired treatments (Chanakyapuri; 91-11/39331234; theleela.com; rates from US$475).

Rasa, Jaipur camping doesn’t mean roughing it at rasa jaipur, a futuristic collection of 40 cubical glass-and-canvas tents arrayed against a backdrop of rugged hills and the meandering wall of the historic amer fort. designed with the same finesse as sister properties devi ratn and devi garh, the 46-square-meter tents are decorated in an earthy palette of brown stone, wood, and leather, and come complete with both heating and air conditioning, wi-fi, satellite television, en suite bathrooms with deep devi ratn’s striking reception area.

sunken tubs, and private gardens and pavilions. pass your days enjoying a wide range of activities including mountain biking, kite-flying, or trekking and bird watching in the nearby nature reserve— before relaxing in your outdoor seating area, where you can dine on Indian and fusion cuisine prepared with ingredients from the resort’s organic gardens, while watching the walls of the fort turn golden in the setting sun (91-141/305-7211; rasaresorts.in; doubles from US$340). saratha Vilas, Chettinad built in 1905 by a wealthy merchant, saratha vilas is one of several chettinad mansions that have recently been restored and converted into hotels. known as the

moneylenders to the british raj, the chettiars of chettinad made their fortunes ferrying hardwood, gemstones, and lacquerware between southeast asia and southern India, and used the profits to build spectacular mansions across the arid farming land of central tamil nadu. built in hindu-tamil and Italianate architecture styles, with burmese teak, belgian glass and japanese tile work throughout, this stately mansion was home to birds and monkeys before french architects bernard dragon and michel adment began a fiveyear restoration program. Upon arrival, guests are greeted in the grand reception hall, beyond which lies the main courtyard. from here, the carved wooden doors and black marble floors lead to 12 simple but stylishly dressed guest rooms, each with antique art pieces and the architects’ own furniture designs; book the victorian suite to sleep in the finely carved mahogany bed (832 Main Rd., Kothamangalam, Karaikudi, Tamil Nadu; 91-98/8493-6158; sarathavilas .com; doubles from US$110).

The oberoi, Gurgaon, New Delhi situated amid 3.5 hectares of gardens in upmarket gurgaon, this minimalist glassand-steel oasis marks a departure from the classic feel of many other oberoi properties. the hotel’s 202 spacious guest rooms (starting at 57 square meters) and suites abound in natural light, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking azure reflection pools and surrounding greenery. the design philosophy of height, light, and space is complemented by the rooms’ minimalist chic—mother-of-pearl inlays, teak wall panels, bold throw rugs—and a host of high-tech gadgetry. while the top three suites boast full-size private pools, all rooms come with the services of a personal butler trained by a former retainer of the dutch royal family. the property also offers a 24-hour spa, an olympic-size swimming pool, a retail arcade, and a fleet of rollsroyces and bmws that will take the edge off the 30-minute ride into downtown delhi (443 Udyog Vihar, Gurgaon; 91-124/2451234; oberoihotels.com; doubles from US$710).

IndonEsIa

W Retreat & spa bali - seminyak, Bali Lobby at devi ratn the second w retreat to open in southeast asia (after koh samui) resides in the

2011 LUXE LIST hopping petitenget area of seminyak, within easy reach of some of bali’s best restaurants and beach clubs. designed with a sleek, flirtatious aesthetic that barely glances at traditional balinese motifs, the resort is awash in cheeky details like an illuminated resin lobby bar and a spa equipped with a 24-hour detox lounge. the pool villas out back are plush and private, but for Indian ocean views you’ll want to stay in the main building, where the top rooms come with skylights. and if the young staff works a little too hard at being cool, there’s nothing to detract from a meal at the hotel’s beachside restaurant starfish bloo, where california chef jack yoss turns out nifty sashimi appetizers and crispy thai-style pork ribs (Jl. Petitenget; 62-361/473-8106; starwoodhotels.com; doubles from US$300).

a mystery that honmachi, the city’s mercantile epicenter, lacked a top-end hotel truly worthy of the name. Enter the st. regis, a towering temple to all things luxurious and cool. Located on the 11th to 27th floors of the honmachi garden city complex, facing midosuji avenue—the self-styled champs-Élysées of osaka—the property has been the talk of the town since its october debut. stroll in the zen-inspired sekitei stone garden that hovers 12 floors above the city streets; enjoy a wasabi and yuzu–spiked shogun bloody mary in the stately st. regis bar; chow down on topnotch northern Italian cuisine in La veduta restaurant, or simply kick back and relax in one of the 160 art-filled, modishly

Leaf, set among the property’s organic gardens, and be sure to try the maldives’ first zero-carbon menu of entirely local fare like grilled reef fish over a fire of coconut shells with maldivian spices, coriander, and lime. Located on the privately owned olhuveli Island in Laamu atoll, six senses offers azure waters and unspoiled whitesand beaches. the resort’s eco-friendly, unvarnished 97 wooden villas come with all the mod cons, including big flat-screen tvs, ipod docks, and bose entertainment systems. already a favorite among serious surfers thanks to its proximity to yin yang, a popular maldivian break, six senses’ third maldives outpost offers other perks including a mixologist who grows her own ingredients (Olhuveli Island; 960/680-0800; sixsenses.com; doubles from US$590).

japan

taIwan

Capitol Hotel Tokyu, Tokyo rising from the ashes of japan’s first chain hotel, which closed its doors in 2006 after 43 years of operation, capitol hotel tokyu embodies the synergy of classic and contemporary japanese elements. the striking 29-story lattice-inspired tower, designed by architect kengo kuma, boasts 247 rooms with panoramic views of the city skyline from the building’s top 12 floors; four suites on the fifth floor overlook the greenery surrounding the 500-year-old hie shrine. all guest quarters feature sliding shoji screens, which enhances the sense of space, while the subdued tones of blond wood and pearly-gray fabrics add transparency and lightness to the decor. a host of mod cons, meanwhile, keeps the rooms firmly rooted in the present. the four restaurants here include suiren, which serves teppanyaki and kaiseki amid views of the hotel’s gardens, and origami, an all-day affair that guests might remember with nostalgia from the tokyu’s earlier incarnation (2-10-3 Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku; 81-3/3503-0109; capitol.tokyuhotels.com; doubles from US$377).

W Taipei, Taipei Leave it to w hotels to shake up taipei’s somewhat staid five-star scene. Ideally located in the heart of the buzzing Xinyi district, the w delivers the brand’s trademark blend of chic and cheek in everything from its young, engaging staff and quirky design elements (a giant chrome chain stands sentry at the entrance) to 405 rooms and suites that marry cutting-edge technology and white corian surfaces with a natural palette of wood and stone. an outdoor pool deck and adjacent bar provide one of the city’s sexiest perches, while the pièce de résistance of dining options is yen, where a nouvelle cantonese menu designed by celebrity chef jereme Leung competes with 31st-floor views of the taiwanese capital’s pulsating skyline—including the nearby taipei 101 tower (10 Zhongxiao East Rd. Sec. 5, Xinyi; 886-2/7703-8888; wtaipei.com; doubles from US$492).

maLdIvEs

st. Regis osaka, Osaka the good citizens of osaka are famed for their entrepreneurial nous, their eye for a bargain, and their willingness to blow their hard-earned fortunes on the better things in life, namely food, drink, and having a good time. thus it was always something of

six senses Laamu, Laamu Atoll there is nothing like counting the dolphins that swim along hithadhoo kandu, a natural waterway for bottlenose and spinners that passes in front of Longitude, one of six eateries at the only resort in Laamu atoll. dine over water at the six glass tables of deck-a-dence or at the chili table inside

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Water features at the renaissance Sanya resort.

elegant rooms. the 24-hour butler service ensures your every need will be met, and the night views, especially from the royal suite’s elegant designer bath, are simply breathtaking (3-6-12 Honmachi, Chuo-ku; 81-6/6258-3333; starwoodhotels.com; doubles from US$900).

thaILand

Hansar bangkok, Bangkok singaporean architecture firm woha brings its eco-chic aesthetic to bangkok with this 48-room, centrally located property where guests are greeted by a soaring vertical garden of 2,000 plants at the entrance. the hotel’s high-ceilinged guest rooms boast sweeping urban views, deep soak baths with aromatic bulgari amenities, and original thai silk and beaded textiles from chiang mai–based artist kachama perez draped

2011 LUXE LIST over the plush beds. an elongated infinity pool on the eighth floor offers a cool refuge from bangkok’s urban jungle. the pool area is broadly visible from the hotel’s 19th floor rooftop sky terrace, which is perfect for weddings and parties of up to 450 guests. the sumptuous french provençal menu at Eve on the ground floor is ready to accommodate anyone’s dietary requirements. come back for generous breakfasts of fresh tropical fruit, cured meats, and homemade baked goods, best enjoyed on the outdoor terrace before bangkok’s midday heat (3 Soi Mahadlekluang 2, Rajdamri Rd.; 66-2/ 2209-1234; hansarbangkok.com; doubles from US$350).

Howie’s Homestay, Chiang Mai american howard feldman and his thai wife jerri so enjoyed hosting vIp dinners in their lush, landscaped gardens for guests of the neighboring four seasons resort chiang mai that they decided to convert one wing of their bill bensley–designed, thai-burmese dream home—featured in Architectural Digest—into a high-end, onesuite homestay. the high-ceilinged teak pavilion features 500-thread-count sheets and a comfy, pillow-top bed. floor-toceiling windows open onto a private garden boasting fishponds and fountains plus an outdoor bathroom with a sunken bath. guests are in good hands off the property as well, with howard and jerri more than happy to show them their favorite antique dealers and roadside dives. other perks of the all-inclusive package feature daily massages, round-the-clock car and driver, laundry, minibar, and elephant rides (75/1 Moo 1, Ban Mai Mae Ram; 66-81/882-8345; howieshomestay.com; doubles from US$800). st. Regis bangkok, Bangkok overlooking the royal thai sports club— a rare patch of greenery in bangkok’s urban jungle—the 227 elegantly appointed rooms here boast prime views, including a bird’seye view of the sunday horse races. but the real highlight is the butler service: smartly suited assistants are on hand for everything from unpacking your bags to repairing a broken zip. they can also arrange a lavish private breakfast, which includes caviar with poached eggs, mascarpone french toast, champagne and a spicy bloody mary.

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head to the st. regis bar, where at 6:45 p.m. each evening a sword-wielding butler sabers open a bottle of champagne (159 Rajadamri Rd.; 66-2/207-7777; stregis.com; doubles from US$275). vIEtnam

Fusion Maia da nang, Danang with a concept that combines healthy living and personal indulgence, every aspect of this resort has been designed to help guests maximize their sensory experience. the spa is vietnam’s largest, and all treatments —based on natural living practices—are included in the room rate. the feng shui–inspired architecture of the resort, modeled on hue’s forbidden purple city,

The lobby at Hansar bangkok.

promotes the flow of energy and an airy, zen-like ambience from the elevated welcome area down to the white, sandy stretch of my khe beach (formerly known as china beach). Each of the minimalist 80 villas boasts a terrazzo tub and a private plunge pool set within a red-walled leafy green garden. the four two-bedroom spa villas incorporate a 13-square-meter plunge pool, while the two three-bedroom fusion beach villas are fronted by a 70square-meter private lap pool overlooking the south china sea. the hotel’s restaurants trade on fresh, tasty pan-asian fusion cuisine, and there’s no need to set your alarm —breakfast is served all day (Truong Sa St., Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son; 84-511/

396-7999; fusionmaiadanang.com; doubles from US$330).

Hotel de l’opera, Hanoi set near the scenic shores of hoan kiem Lake and a short stroll from the streets of the old Quarter, this mgallery-branded hotel is hanoi’s most ostentatious contemporary accommodation. the design of the 107 rooms borders on the theatrical: rich purple mottled walls, heavy silk drapes, and rich wooden parquet flooring provide a counterpoint to golden gilded mirrors and flamboyant crushed-pink velvet furnishings.

Elegantly sensual, satine is the hotel’s gourmet restaurant, serving mediterraneaninspired haute cuisine complemented by a well-edited wine list. the drinking rituals at the fée verte bar revolve around imported absinthe (29 Trang Tien St.; 84-4/62825555; mgallery.com; doubles from US$128). six senses Con dao, Con Dao the first luxury resort on one of the 16 emerald jungle-covered islands off of the sleepy southeast coast of vietnam features 50 sea-facing wooden villas with decks, loungers, and infinity pools. Inside, pillowy beds confer panoramic views of the surrounding islands and rocky outcrops, and the polished concrete bathtub is roomy enough for two. the spa is a must, especially the three-and-a-half-hour vietnam journey, which incorporates a body polish of yogurt and indigenous hat bang almonds, a honeyand-white-clay mask, a stretching massage, and a traditional herbal hair wash. the hotel’s local delicacies include miss Lan’s summer rolls stuffed with fresh shrimp and organic vegetables from the surrounding gardens. Learn how to make your own by taking the local market tour that ends with deep bowls of pho noodle soup and vietnamese coffee, or explore the neighboring islands in con dao’s protected marine reserve by speedboat, stopping at bai cahn Island green and hawksbill turtle sanctuary (Dat Doc Beach, 84-64/383-1222; sixsenses.com; villas from US$685).

Reported by Cynthia Rosenfeld, Leisa Tyler, Evelyn Chen, David Tse, Gemma Price, Chris Kirkpatrick, Angela Shah, John Ashburne, Amy Fabris-Shi, Isabel Esterman, Christopher Hill; Jason Overdorf, and Ian Lloyd Neubauer.