AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI AND MONGOLIA

Page 1


EX LIB R S I

^<y^

em

mm

ALEX R ALLAN.


V



AFTER WILD SHEEP IN

THE ALTAI AND MONGOLIA


OVIS AMMOIM


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN

THE

ALTAI AND MONGOLIA

E.

DEMIDOFF Prince San Donato

author of "hunting trips

WITH

S2

in

the caucasus'

ILLUSTRATIONS

A COLOURED FRONTISPIECE

AND MAP

LONDON

ROWLAND WARD, 166,

PICCADILLY 1900

All rights resetted

limited


x

«,

k\v\z\

'

PLYMOUTH WILLIAM liRENDON AND SON PRINTERS


PREFACE In

attempting-

to

describe an expedition

search

in

of the wild sheep of Mongolia (Ovis ammon), fully

aware that

The want

of

I

have undertaken a information

practical

am

I

difficult

task.

concerning-

the

country visited, the wild scenery, the curious habits

and mode of

life

little

Kirghiz,

-explored region, and

an account of the mightiest of wild sheep

finally its

Kalmuks and

of the native

the flora and fauna of a

natural haunts,

and so

closely

embarrassed

On

in

are matters of such

connected,

one

that

in

importance

may

well

feel

commencing" the narrative.

the other hand,

I

have been so much pressed

by English sportsmen to give an account, however brief,

of the journey,

feeling

year to

its

successes and failures, that

encouraged by the

my volume

Caucasus,

account of

I

entitled

have decided

my

experiences

reception

accorded

Hunting Trips to in

publish the Altai

and Monoolia.

do 8547

the

last

in the

present

Mountains


PREFACE

vi

May it

is

meet with the approval of those

it

particularly

addressed,

their

chase of wild animals

countries,

naturalists,

without

be undertaken In

in

addition to

duced,

I

am

Littledale, versity),

distant

whose

so far as science

hunter,

aid is

who

the sportsmen

viz.

have devoted the best years of in

whom

to

the

labours

the

to

lives

and the of

the

concerned, might often

vain.

my own

photographs here repro-

indebted for others to Mr. St. George

Professor

Sapoknikoff (of

and Mr. Ford Barclay,

to

Tomsk

whom my

Uni-

grateful

acknowledgments are due, and should here be corded.

DEMIDOFF.

re-


CONTENTS CHAPTER From London

to

Barnaoul via

St.

I.

Petersburg and Moscow

— Meeting

— Nijni-Novgorod — Down the Volga up the Kama to Taguil — Three days at Taguil — Our luggage — Cook — Special Car— Journey to Krivostchekovo (Ob River) — Governor of Tomsk General Boldyreff, head of the Altai district — Ispravnik — Village of Nikolaievsk — Up the Ob to Barnaoul Page with Littledale

;

.

CHAPTER

— Tarantass — Bad

i

II.

From Barnaoul through Bisk and Ongudai frontier)

.

to

Kosh-Agatch (Siberian

Roads— Bisk — First

sight of the Altai

— The "Maralnik," or Deer Park at Shebalina — Kalmuks —Ongudai — Russian Police Official, M. Meyer — Preparations at Ongudai — Tchouia Valley — Singular Performance of Native Priest — Kosh-Agatch — Customs Official — Zaissan Semion —Taba — Duck Mountains

Shooting

.

.

.

CHAPTER

.

...

36

III.

— Steppe — Camp — Up Tchagan-Burgaza Valley — First sight of Wild Sheep — Kotchkor — Arkhar— Snow Bridge Pitching Camp — First Shooting Camp — Kalmuk Vocabulary- -Cold

Start from Kosh-Agatch

Nights— Stalks— The Happy Valley {Bain-Tchagan)— More Stalks

— Snow

and Wind

.

.

CHAPTER Last days on the Tchagan-Burgaza

Camp The

into

Start

.

...

90

IV.

— Pass

over the Frontier

Mongolia — A Blizzard — Major Cumberland's

— Shift

Camp

— Map unreliable — Meet Chinese — Great numbers of Sheep

Heads — Karaoul Suok — Chinese Governor — Passports — Chinese Officials

— Interpreters — Joseph

Bain-Khairkhan

Hills

,

— ...

returns with fresh Stores .

.

Start for 132


CONTENTS CHAPTER March

to the

Suok River

— Camp at

V.

foot of

Bain-Khairkhan Range

— Antelopes — Sand-grouse — Wolves — Plover — Gray ling fishing — Snow-cock — Littledale's success — More Stalks — Shift Camp — Russian Merchant — March by Kobdo River — Hares — Marmot — Horses footsore Snok Valley — Wild Sheep seen— An unsuccessful Stalk seen

Kirghiz Yourts

— Marmot

Chinese Karaoul

—A

new Guide

Skins

— Crossing

Tchagan-Kol River

.....

— Valley

of the

Sumdairik— Muss-Taou Range

CHAPTER

Page

VI.

— Lakes — Fishing — Muss-Taou Hills — Journey northwards — Nicolas sent for Sheep — Sumdairik River Camp — Meat at last — Fresh Ponies expected at Tchagan-Kol River— March on 16th of July — No Sport — Fresh Ponies and Men arrive — More Marches — Moraine of old Glacier — Crossing the Tchagan-Kol back — Camps — Snowstorm — Littledale finds Wild Sheep — Joseph sent for Stores— Olonur Valley — Snow — July 23rd— Shooting — Game at last — Antelope — First sight of Ibex (Copra Sibirica) — Stalks with Taba — Littledale brings in a good Ram — Meeting with Zaissan

Sources of Kobdo River

Semion and Kirghiz Chief

CHAPTER Olonur

.

.

— My Wife goes out

.

217

horns of Maral found

Valley — Hares and Brahminy Geese seen

with Stores

.

VII.

Camp — Stalking Sheep— Weather-beaten

— Lake

.

—Joseph

returns

— Littledale's Record Head Ram— We Shift Camp — Taba's

Stalking

— Thunderstorms — wound a fine successful Ruse — Unsuccessful Pursuit — Our Camp under the Nam Daba Pass — Stampede of the Pack-horses — A good Stalk on August 2nd — Shift Camp over Frontier — More Stalking — The Tarkhaty I

River

— Kirghiz

a good Ibex

Encampment with great Herds

of Horses

— Return to Camp on the Tchagan-Burgaza

River

I

get .

243


CONTENTS CHAPTER Pack-ponies go astray in

Happy

the

breaks up

;

Valley

ix

VIII.

replaced by Camels from the Kirghiz

— More

Stalking-

— Letters

at

— Again

—Weather Bag- — Start for Last

— Kosh-Agatch Plain — Antelope — Our — Shooting Wild Fowl on the Kosh-Agatch Steppe

Bashkaous Valley

—My

Wife

— Pine,

kills

a Wild

Swan

with the Rifle— In the Altai Woodlands

— After Maral and Roe-deer — Grayling Fishing the Bashkaous River — The Zaissan's Home — Kara Kodjur Stream — Unsuccessful Approaches — Wild Scenery — Sorry-Kol Lake — Tracks of Maral and Moose — Littledale shoots a good Roe-buck — Our Camp at Yulientash — Absence of Deer — September 6th — General Retreat to Ongoudai — Meeting with Major Wissmann — Larch, and Birch

in

Homeward Bound

....

Page 28


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS


.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS "Boma"

Passing a

Up

79

the Valley of the Tchouia

Si

Kosh-Agatch Plateau

83

Catching Horses

86

Punishing a Kalmuk

87

The

Start from Kosh-Agatch

88

Loading a Horse

A

92

Snow-bridge

97

Our Kitchen Our first day's Bag Our Camp under Snow "

Enjoying

his

Returning to

"A

99 109 .

'

morning

siesta

114

Camp

117

large herd of Sheep, apparently

119

all

The Happy Valley Waiting

for the

121

Storm

Pass

to

1-23

Watching " " They crossed the stream at full gallop " "There were three first-class old rams amongst Taba "A pack of Wolves attacked our ponies". "

"

A

We

down

ran

Day's Rest

the slope

Sheep

Skulls of

"We

.... .... .... .... up

piled

126 i^7 th

"

in

heaps

were met by half a dozen Chinamen"

Daniel

Littledale trying the

A Tame Yak Waiting

Yak

Pack-ponies

for the

135 i37

i45

149 163 170 i73

176

178 '79

203

Preparing to Cross the Tchagan-Kol

205

Mrs. Littledale and the Author Crossing the Tchagan-Kol

206

A Smooth

207

Passage

"Janny" Ratting Our new Demitcha and men

215 .

-

.

in the Bashkaous Valley " Heads of Sheep strewed the ground The Asiatic Ibex (Capra sibirica)

219

Jacob, the Demitcha, "

Olonur

"Two

Camp or three

Littledale's

.

.

Rams

.

•

quietly feeding"

Record Head of Ovis amnion

22 9

135 2 45

249 .

261


OV ILLUSTRATIONS

LIST

... ... ... ... ... ... ...

Comparing Heads Return to Tchagan-Burgaza Our Kirghiz Our Camels Taba with a Pack Camel The Bag at Kosh-Agatch Packing Horses at Kosh-Agatch Twelve Ponies laden with Horns start for Ongoudai Our Camp on the Banks of Lake Sarry-Kol .

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Siberian Roe-buck {Capriolns pygargus)

.

Homeward Bound The Author's Bag from the Altai Our Special Luggage Van for Trophies and Packages .

.

273 282

284 285 287

.

291

.

295

.

.

303

.

293

305

.

.

.

.

310

.

.

.

.

311

.

313


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN

THE

ALTAI AND MONGOLIA CHAPTER

I.

Petersburg and Moscow — Meeting Barnaoul via — Nijni- Novgorod — Down the Volga up the Kama to Taguil — Three days at Taguil — Our luggage — Cook — Special Car Journey to Krivostchekovo (Ob River) — Governor of Tomsk —General Holdyrefif, head of the Altai district — Ispravnik — Village of Nikolaievsk — Up the Ob to Barnaoul.

From London

to

St.

with Littledale

It

was

window the

of

the spring- of

in

Piccadilly,

my

of

unusual wild

;

wife and

1897

that,

down

strolling

on passing the well-known

Rowland Ward, were struck by

Mr. size

sheep

I,

and

which

massiveness of

were

making inquiry we were

told

there

some heads

on

On

view.

that they were heads

of Ovis amnion, lately secured by Major

Cumberland

on the Russo-Chinese slopes of the Altai Mountains.

There were

six

or seven of

them, and

I

never was more impressed by any trophies

think I

I

had


ai t;:k

?\ltf: seen.

once decided that the year should not

at

I

pass before

would attempt

also

I

From

bag-.

start as

the aetai

w:i,p .sheep in

that

moment my

soon as possible.

make

to

only thought was to

accordingly endeavoured

I

on the subject,

to secure all the information possible chiefly, in

of course, on the locality

question had been shot.

Cumberland

himself,

who

where the animals

understood had

I

to

I

out

set

came

luckily

I

who had accompanied him

to

Abbas by name, and with whose

the Altai, Joseph useful help

Major

Failing to find

on another and more distant journey, across the interpreter

a similar

marked on

the

map

the route leading

He

those happy hunting grounds.

me

told

that

there was plenty of sport to be obtained, that the

magnificent

whose

sheep

heads

admired were by no means only

went further

into

agreed with

the

scarce,

much

so

and that

if

Mongolia we would

across virgin country where

had the pick of such

had

I

no sportsman had yet

trophies.

To

this

good summer months before me, and

at

I

of course

having four

enthusiasm,

greatest

we

come

once engaged

Joseph's services, enjoining him to be ready to start

by the middle of April. municated Littledale,

this

plan

who had

to

In

my

the friend

meantime Mr.

also seen the heads,

equally keen to secure similar trophies.

St.

I

com-

George

and who was


PREPARATIONS

3

Mrs. Littledale said she could not be

my

also

wife

way

this

in

We

insisted

our

little

party

Moscow

more than a month

to reach

that

was

four

of

from

calculated

behind

left

upon accompanying

it

and

made

up.

would take us

our grounds, and

accordingly decided to meet there between the

and 15th of May, so as

start,

I

Moreover, though very

had been

we should have

large rivers

told that

to cross

some

of the

on our way were

absolutely unfordable until the beginning of June roads, too,

were supposed

all

be very bad

to

(our subsequent experience the case

indicated

the year round)

also be difficult

to

10th

to reach the Siberian frontier

towards the middle of June. impatient to

;

us,

negotiate

in

that

the

;

spring

this

was

several passes would

;

—

all

this

delayed our

departure and postponed our rendezvous at

Moscow

middle of May.

until the

Having concluded our preparations started,

my

April.

Our

wife and tents

I,

and

for

St.

stores

in

London, we

Petersburg early

in

and other impedimenta

had been shipped a few days previously

to

Libau,

a port which at that time of year was not frozen. I

had a few matters

leaving,

of a

services

roughing B

most

the

2

it,

good

to settle in St.

important doctor,

Petersburg before

being

to

secure

the

who would not mind

and who was accustomed

to

travelling


AFTER WILD SHEEP

4

The

a wild country.

in

who had been seemed most

choice

when

St. Petersburg"

President urging"

of

me

to

us,

numerous photographs and

Museum.

from

Mr.

specimens

bring back as

could on the country the slightest details,

Semenoff,

much

was about

I

received a most

I

P.

Geographical

Imperial

the

He

and expressed

as well as geological

letter

Newsky,

)r.

Russian Turkestan

in

accompany

willing to

collecting botanical

encouraging

1

cholera was raging there.

the intention of taking

for the

upon

fell

engaged

actively

during- the time

THE ALTAI

IN

Vice-

Society,

information as

to visit,

I

adding that

whatever branch of science

to

they might belong, would be most acceptable to the

Mr. Alpheraki, a Russian

Society.

naturalist, called

upon me and gave me a highly interesting account of

his

travels

to

Kuldja and the

Yulduz

valleys,

had brought back many new species

stating that he

of insects and plants, and expressing the hope that I

would likewise contribute

tunately objects,

I

to his collection.

was wholly unprepared

and deprecated

for

such

engaged

of the

in

Russian

scientific

his too sanguine expectations.

Mr. Alpheraki was at that time (and still)

Unfor-

I

believe

is

completing a work on the Anatidce

Empire.

He

was kind enough

show me some advanced coloured to illustrate his interesting" book,

plates which

to

were

and they appeared


A RARE DUCK

me

to

He

highly successful.

5

me

told

that there

was

a particular duck which was supposed to breed on

Mongolian plateaux, and

the

desirous to obtain of I

asking

it,

promised

my

me

;

to try

was most

which he

a water-colour sketch

and secure a specimen

my

do

to

me

he gave

for him.

but unluckily failed

best,

whom

in

showed

attempts, though the

Kalmuks

to

me

that they

had often seen the

the drawing assured

numerous lakes of the Kosh-Agatch

species on the plain.

entrusted

I

I

Dr.

Newsky

with the

scientific

portion of our researches, intending to devote myself entirely to chase of sheep

however,

disappointment, for

the

task,

and he

and the small

To my

ibex.

was

also

efforts

great

unprepared

made

that

in

direction resulted only in a collection of plants which

my

my

made on our way from one camp

wife

other, a

list

valet,

of which will be given later on.

who accompanied me on

proved very useful

We

in

many

started from St.

Joseph, platform. at

the the

following interpreter,

the

journey,

ways.

Petersburg,

my

the Doctor and Cristo, on the 13th of

Moscow

this

to

Cristo,

morning,

wife and

I,

May, reaching

where

we found

awaiting us on the

station

Mr. and Mrs. Littledale had just arrived

the Slaviansky

together, talking

Bazaar,

and we lunched merrily

over our forthcoming

trip.

They


AFTER WILD SHEEP

6

had secured as servant a

to the

man, Gabriel by

first-rate

who had accompanied

name,

THE ALTAI

IN

us

the

previous year

whom Littledale had He rendered himself

been

Caucasus, and with

thoroughly useful

satisfied.

camp, and by no means the

in

accomplishments was

very

of his

least

skinning heads.

his art of

In

order not to waste a whole day, as our boat was to

Nijni-Novgorod

leave

we decided

about a

and

ton,

was

the at

following

afternoon,

4 p.m., reaching Nijni

Our baggage, amounting

morning.

next

earl\

on

Moscow

to quit

be

to

join us at Taguil,

sent

to

by the next steamer

a place in the Ural Mountains

my

family,

where we intended

two or three days

for the

purpose of giving the ladies

belong 110-

to

a rest before

to

stop

commencing the long and dreary journey

on the Siberian Railway, and for the purpose also of

more expeditional shape,

getting our luggage into a

leaving

the

we had

to

ingly,

Nijni

was

immediately

remainder to follow

on

May

15th

we found

for the great

their

traffic

and

Moreover,

Accord-

ourselves

at

time to see the preparations that were beino'

annual

fair.

The banks

Volga were covered with goods of find

wanted,

later.

engage the services of a cook.

early in

made

what

only

taking

was

way just

there from

all

all

kinds,

parts of Asia,

of the

which

and the

beginning, owing to the opening of




DOWN THE VOLGA the

Our

rivers.

steamer,

the

9

Ekaterinburg,

s.s.

of the Lubimoff

Company, was awaiting us alongside

the pier, and at

1.30 p.m.

down It

we began

move

slowly to

the great river Volga.

was a somewhat monotonous journey, the scenery

on either side bearing a decided look of uniformity large rolling plains covered with wheat or grass,

now and

very scarce,

:

woods

then higher banks overshadow-

ing the riverside, and a few villages scattered here

and

conspicuous by

there,

their

churches towering-

above the wooden huts and glistening weather,

must be owned, was

it

in

The

the sun.

beautiful,

and the

air

as transparent as possible, such as one only encounters in

Russia

more

spring-time.

in

country.

have nowhere seen a

I

wakening up of nature than

in

that

Every bud, every blade of grass

at

that

striking

season seems to be

alive,

and birds appear

more exuberantly than anywhere

else.

to rejoice

Long

strings

of swans, geese, and ducks appearing from the south,

hundreds of yards high, are then constantly observable,

and

life

shows

Our steamer in

itself in its

utmost intensity.

called at several places before

we hove

sight of Kasan, the great Tartar town, which

reached at 6 a.m. on the following morning.

we stopped

till

and we began

1

1

a.m.

Tons

to fear that

we

Here

of cargo were shipped,

we might

miss our train


AFTER WILD SHEEP

,o

Perm

at

THE ALTAI

IN

we were delayed much

if

we witnessed

a

Here

longer.

between the captain of our ship and a crowd going

to say a herd) of

wanting

to

made

on,

squalid-looking Tartars who,

demanding

i

The

rouble 50 kopecks apiece,

shouting from the top of the deck willing to give only

1

was

he conveyed to some landing-place further

captain was

at

(I

offers for the price of their passage.

after a long

also

curious and lively bargaining affray

;

the Tartars were

rouble 30 kopecks.

1

Finally,

and noisy dispute, the bargain was struck

rouble 43 kopecks, and the whole throng poured

with yells and a strong smell of Russian leather

in

boots and unwashed humanity.

we soon branched

After leaving Kasan

Volga up the

the

floating

as

down

with

The weather

Here

the river.

beautiful still

dense

of spirits

May

at 9.30 p.m.

fir

at

Perm on

Although a couple of hours

we were

in

time for the

We

also received the

had

left

find

us

Nijrti in

woods and

remained cloudless,

we landed

best

the scenery changed

Both sides of the stream were

we neared Perm.

covered

from

off

Kama, and saw many icebergs

train,

late,

and the

at

that our

the

in 1

8th

we found

which started

good news

pine.

1

1

of

that

p.m.

baggage

by the following steamer, and would

three days at

Taguil.

On

the

morning




TAGUIL 15th of

of the

May we

13

reached Taguil and drove

to the house.

Taguil

the

is

head

the

Ural

town,

mining

of a vast

village,

Mountains.

rather

or

district

in

head

the

the

centre of

cannot be called a town,

It

not having a municipality, but as regards size larger than

many

inhabitants,

principally

lies at

the foot of the

workmen and "

richest

works are spread

round

expenses of transport.

engineers.

Sheleznaia Gora

mountain), one of the all

end of the

is

order

in

Copper

also

is

to

It

iron

{i.e.

and the

iron-ore,

in it

"

within a few miles in great abundance, and at the other

it

and contains over 30,000

towns,

avoid

to

be found is

melted

Platinum and gold

village.

are likewise distributed in the neighbourhood.

At the head

of the village

a lake about twelve

lies

miles long, into which flows the river Taguil, yielding-

The

considerable water-power for the iron- works.

country

round Taguil presents

rolling hills

covered with pine,

the fir,

aspect

of

low

and birch woods,

which become denser as one proceeds further from the inhabited districts.

amount

of

game.

cariboo within

fifty

I

These woods contain a have

miles

myself

north

shot

of Taguil.

elk

fair

and

Brown

bears abound, also the Siberian Roe-deer [Caprcolus

pygargus), which

I

have secured close

to the village,


1

AFTER WILD SHEEP

1

and which

we found been

in

lately

believe

I

the

is

THE ALTAI

IN

identical

wooded regions

with die roc which

of the Altai.

1

have

informed that a hunter of the Ekaterin-

burg Shooting Club brought news that he had come across three large beasts in the

never seen before. ings in a that as

On

woods which he had

showing him various draw-

book of Natural History and on reaching

of an

Aurochs, he

immediately

recognised

resembling the animals he had seen.

therefore,

may

exist in the

may have come over; with

all

reserve.

it

Aurochs,

dense Siberian Taiga and

but

I

As regards

give this birds,

information

Capercaillie and


TAGUIL Black

Game

hunters,

are found in great numbers.

who

White Fox,

ON TAGUIL

supposed

A

local

to

etc.,

assert that

KIVI-.K.

they would rather meet a Bear

other animal.

native

of fur-

such as Sable (now becoming very

scarce), Siberian Squirrel,

is

The

frequent the woods in search

bearing- animals,

Elk, which

15

in the

woods than an

be more dangerous than any

proverb on the subject always

me " For bear prepare your bed, for elk your The Taguil estate lies on the very boundary coffin."

struck

:

between Europe and Asia, and a huge red post stands


AFTER WILD SHEEP

16

in

middle

the

-'.Here ends also

many

the

of

THE ALTAI

woods with the

inscription

who

:

There are

Europe, here begins Asia."

traditions

adventurer,

IN

passage of Ermak, the

of the

the sixteenth century crossed the

in

Ural Mountains with a few followers and conquered Siberia

bear

rocks

I\Ian\-

scriptions

Russian

the

for

in

Ivan

Tsar,

witness

his

to

journey, with

having sprung up owing

At

their

and

barley.

A

"kvas,"

a

Russian

wooden board above

strange words

"

:

Being short of food, and used to raid the

villages

would often ensue. of things,

the

thus

place.

prevent

in

This

is

an old

who

way back

by

night,

inhabitants

the

in

to

order to obtain

In order to put

these outlaws with food

and

of

the shed bears these

Russian convicts,

cross the Ural range on their

state

place

made

con-

from the Eastern Siberian galleys,

escape

to

usually

in turn,

beverage

For the miserable."

custom of the country. trive

most of them

outskirts

stands a shed where the peasants, each

bread

few

mines or gold washings

to

neighbourhood.

the

in-

A

where he had camped.

places

villages are scattered about the country,

in

Terrible.

the

the

I

it,

they

and bloodshed an end to

decided

way

frequent

Europe.

to

this

provide

have described,

murders

that

took

The mining people are sometimes very savage

and cruel

;

in

one case a

girl

was slowly burnt

to




THREE DAYS AT TAGUIL death

non-compliance

for

torturers.

given, but

with

the

Other instances of

this

me

would carry

it

19

wishes

On the day we arrived at Taguil my wife, and myself), we visited the

might be

kind

my

too far from

her

of

subject.

(the Littledales,

iron-works, and

having heard that there was some

woodcock

fair

shooting to be obtained in the vicinity of the town,

we decided our

with

where woodcock their mates,

fly

circles

in

posted

It

signifies

is

heard from

They

flight.

van

luggage

7

for

and 7.30 p.m. about

ten

usually

I

heard of a dozen birds having been bagged

way between

of

and uttering

and the guns are

the centre of the line of

in

search

in

trees

afar.

place,

the

marked place

a

towards evening

round the

a

is

known under

is

skimming the tops of

a hissing cry, which

skim

go out that evening

to

woodcock -shooting

Russia.

in

"Tiaga," which

of

I)

Spring

guns.

favourite sport

name

and

(Littledale

We

miles

in

travelled

along

the

have this in

a

new

railway that had just been constructed to the works,

and soon found ourselves

As

the sun was setting

cry, in

I

in

the midst of the woods.

heard the

followed immediately by shots.

my

direction,

returned

in

waiting for c 2

the us.

but dark,

Littledale

first

woodcock's

Nothing came

secured three.

We

and found our platform -car


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

2o

The

next

mines.

The

two

clays

ladies

washings, whilst

were

we went

courtesy of General

West

of the

ducks on the lake

we

that

getting any, and had to give

in

;

did not succeed

Through

up.

it

the

Pavlovsky, the chief inspector

Siberian Railway, to

a special car

the

visiting

in

to see the platinum

after

was so strong

but the wind

spent

drove down

was placed

at

whom

had wired,

I

our disposal for our four

days' journey along the line to the

Ob

we

This was, indeed,

branched off towards Barnaoul.

River, where

more

a great relief to us, there being- nothing for ladies

than a long journey

in

house-car, for the next few days thus amiably

Our

provided, arrived at Taguil on the 26th, and to see

to the station

with

and hand-baggage

meantime

the us

I

we went

was a comfortable

plenty of

carriage,

rifles,

Vassili

It

it.

class

the

tiring

a bad railway-car.

—by

had engaged

room

for

no means a

our

first-

part)-,

trifle.

In

the services of a cook,

by name, a young fellow who had worked

in

platinum mines, and was willing to accompany

and show us

his proficiency in

culinary

art.

He

proved quite a success, and none of us ever regretted having engaged him.

On

the afternoon of

our anxiously expected impedimenta at

and we began forthwith sorting our up what we

strictly

required

May 22nd

last

arrived,

stores,

packing

into carefully

weighed




OUR LUGGAGE pony

loads,

and leaving

The house was single thing

a

of

luxury behind.

a state of great confusion

in

was taken

London grocery

articles

23

out,

A

shop.

and the

box containing two gross

of safety matches had been detained, for

some

by the Russian Customs, who promised

to

after

similar occupation,

The

!

we

The weather was

to

it

there

it

next day was devoted to

May

Taguil at

left

1

24th,

a.m.

1

and we soon found

quite settled,

warmer than we

reason,

forward

found

and on the morning of

everything being ready,

it

We

examination to Barnaoul.

on our return journey

every

;

resembled

floor

Four hours brought us

liked.

Ekaterinburg, from which place we branched off

due south through the most important mining tricts

of the

early next

dis-

Ural Mountains, reaching Tcheliabinsk

morning.

From

this

place the

Western

Siberian Railway starts, and here begins the dreary,

monotonous view of Siberian steppes and marshes, which we had

to

contemplate for three long days.

The

sun was scorching- hot as we crawled along at

the

rate

of

immense

fiat plains.

Kourgan, the

twelve

only

miles

We

hour through

these

found villages very scarce

Petnopavloosk,

towns

an

en

;

Omak, and Kainsk were At

the

stations

hardly any provisions were to be got, and

we had

to

rely

large

entirely

route.

upon our own

stores.

Now

and


AFTER WILD SHEEP

?4

IN

then, outside the station-house,

THE ALTAI

we saw long wooden

planks set up, on which the peasants of the neigh-

bouring villages had placed chickens, bread, or

sometimes water

melons,

to

A

sell.

was the utmost one could spend.

must confess

I

TATION-HOUSE WE SAW LONG WOODEN I'LANKS SET

that

UP.

'

melons were greatly appreciated by our party,

owing

We

to the

intense heat.

saw great numbers of ducks

steppes soil

fish,

kopecks

few

round

Kainsk

dry,

was

was

it

Semiretchensk granaries

of

;

at

Siberia

and

the

are

marshy

where the

other places,

cultivated.

countries

in

The Akmolinsk and supposed

Russia,

to

where

be

wheat

the is


GENERAL 150LDYREFF

25

Trees

largely imported, especially in time of famine.

were to be seen here and there, mostly birch, but hardly close enough to form woods.

be said that

Mountains

Ural

The

and

Ob

the

In fact,

may

to

The

a

lively

train

left

who had gone

out

where we halted a long

At

line,

dropped

been

running

and eventually overtaking

the train with frantic yells and

the 28th of

the next station,

we saw our wretched

time,

who had

breathless along the

we were

of which

scene

into the fields to pick flowers.

On

we advanced

on quitting a station had

behind some of the passengers,

fellow-travellers

bare.

practically

is

In confirmation of this statement

trying.

refer

witnesses.

may

it

land between the

of

tract

exceedingly slow pace at which

was most I

whole

the

May we

waving of

reached the

caps.

Ob

River,

and were heartily greeted by General Lomatchevsky,

Governor of Tomsk,

to

whom

of introduction, and General Altai district,

in

letter

chief of the at

Barnaoul,

a most hospitable manner.

These gentlemen informed us

up

had sent a

whose headquarters were

and who received us

it

I

Boldyreff,

that

we should

find

a very difficult job to follow the Tchouia Valley to

being

Kosh-Agatch, especially with in

places

exceedingly

sentatives of the female sex

ladies, the

narrow.

had ever

No tried

path

repreit,

save


AFTER WILD SHEEP

26

Kalmuk

a few native

THE ALTAI

IN

As

matrons.

for ladies' saddles,

they seemed to think that they were entirely out of

police

(chief

whom

I

was

This

question.

Lomatchevsky

Siberian frontier. of

the

information

us

not

us,

Ispravnik

the

district,

to

to

the

Being" a true Siberian citizen

and

on

the

the

proceed

Kalmuk

accompany us

to

Altai,

of

our

by

Barnaoul

the

of

was then introduced, and who was appointed

by Genera]

native

confirmed

officer)

to

Ispravnik gave us a deal

country,

into

and strongly urged

Mongolia, where, he

would probably refuse

staff

to

said,

follow

fearing that their horses might be stolen by the

He was

Mongols and Kirghiz.

native

straightforward man, but

an honest,

somewhat rough with

his

subordinates, a failing which later on caused not a

few misunderstandings.

The Governor us,

and

Tomsk was

of

as civil as possible to

he was, at that moment, working

told us that

out a plan of converting the Tchouia path into a road for the tea caravans,

case soutai

adopt

this

which would undoubtedly

route

and Kobdo,

in

from

China,

through

leading

Ulias-

preference to the ancient road

through Kiachta, which was much longer.

one of the

in that

In

fact,

Russian tea merchants said he

had already received great quantities of tea through

Kosh-Agatch, and had found

it

far

more

profitable,


"

"FATHER THEODOR"

27

notwithstanding that he had had to reload his goods

The Russian Government,

from camels to horses.

however,

did

sum

large

not then

seem

carrying

out

in

inclined

and an engineer was commissioned probable

good

of

rocky

falls

into

here,

while

that

was

that,

for

of the

According

cost.

deal

dynamite

to

spend

to

to report

my

would

on

on the

observations

be

wanted,

the river being numerous.

lunching

a

submitted scheme,

the

board the

small

a

sheer It

was

steamer

convey us and our fortunes up the Ob,

to

the

first

time,

I

was given a

legend of the so-called

full

account

"Father Theodor

by our friend the Ispravnik, who was a young police officer

death

at in

Tomsk

at

the time of

the sixties.

I

Father Theodor's

had always considered

legend as one of the most curious and

and

it

may be worth

all

interesting-,

while to relate the facts round

which an impenetrable mystery In almost

this

still

hovers.

Siberian villages there

is

scarcely a

house which does not contain the portrait of an old

man known

as " Father Theodor,"

as a saint, will outlive the country.

appeared

at

About

many

the year 1830,

Tomsk under

the

whose memory,

generations throughout

name

it

is

said,

a

of Theodor.

one knew whence he came or who he was.

man

No The

only fact that had been confirmed was that he had


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

2 <S

been caught by the police without a passport on the Ural borders of Siberia, and after due punishment for refusing to disclose his identity (at

penalty was

knout) had been transferred as a

the

settler for life to

that time the

Tomsk.

There everyone was struck

by his cultivated manner,

wonderful knowledge

his

of languages (for besides Russian he spoke English

and

French

features,

perfectly),

gentle

his

and quiet mode of

few years

a

fame spread throughout the whole of Siberia.

his

The common

people began to consider him a

and would gather

in

crowds around

He

lived

to

receive his blessing.

in

the house of a rich merchant

had given him

stantly.

One

subject

He

it

was noticed

to

know every

general

and could describe every

it,

viz.

to

that his favourite

was Napoleon's invasion of Russia

was acquainted with every

seemed

comfort

all

and prayed con-

thing he never refused to do,

teach children, and

room

a small

named Somoff, who

food,

little

saint,

his cell in order in

he refused

hospitality, but

and luxury, took very

in

In

life.

noble

bearing,

of

1812.

in

the

war,

who had taken

part

detail

battle with precision.

He

taught the children to love Russia and honour

the

memory

manner he silent

of Alexander lived

I.

the

Beloved.

In this

over thirty years at Tomsk, ever

about his own personality, and sowing the seeds


"FATHER THEODOR" of

and

religion

He

district.

with

lived,

throughout

instruction

died

alone can afford.

It

and calmness which

who he

possession

were despatched by

messenger

to

were

Petersburg,

country

that

monarch

Taganrog

at

of

his coffin not

abdicate

to

a

after

might

sovereign

;

see

body

the

full

figure

of

the coincidence of dates

was arrested as a vagabond and

in

order that the their

those of Alexander's

—

resembling,

these

all

deceased

when Theodor

his education, patriotism,

;

features,

Moscow,

in

knowledge of the French invasion

and noble

supposed

mysterious

having been opened

according to the Russian custom, people

facts of the

and

short

the

Tsar

the

his

;

special

over

than

other

his

Emperor

the

spread

to

no

in

supposed

is

it

and a consideration of the

I.,

desire of

;

to his

Somoff by

where

order

began

was

he

that

Alexander

by

destroyed

Rumours

Nicholas.

illness

St.

faith

under oath of

was,

and the papers which were found

secrecy,

death

he confided

said that

is

host on his death-bed

they

whole

the

extreme old age, as he had

in

stoicism

the

29

facts,

I

;

it

his stately

was

repeat,

said,

only

helped to strengthen the conclusions of the people.

Moreover, by the care of his friend Somoff a cross had

been placed over his tomb, bearing the

initials

ÂŁ.

in

The

the cemetery at

Tomsk,

who

related

Ispravnik


!

AFTER WILD SHEEP

3o

THE ALTAI

IN

the story to us had been an eye-witness of this curious

to

had

and

circumstance,

himself commissioned

been

take off this cross by night so as not to create

a disturbance

in

and

think

I

These are the

the town.

need no comment.

give them as

I

doubtful whether

it

which

facts,

heard them,

I

history

ever

will

unravel the mystery.

Lomatchevsky gave us some

General accounts

of

others

interesting-

he told

a few years ago there appeared at

that

man who gave

himself out as

he was travelling

that

report

him

asked

General delightful

and the

produce his

convict of

visitor

passport

conceal

longer

Some

days

The him a

found later

a

saying

•,

pleasure.

and

dinner,

to

us

Tomsk

came

a

dangerous convict had escaped from

a

that

Prince

own

his

for

companion.

the galleys,

he

Amongst

convicts.

his

whom

considered

on being summoned

confessed

identity,

that

and

that

he

could

to

no

he was the

the police were in search, but that

himself

amply

rewarded

by

the

Governor's excellent dinner

At

2

p.m.

we parted with General Lomatchevsky,

who wished

us

success,

and

advancing slowly up the Ob. magnificent

left

We

steamer

began

passed under the

broad

river,

the village of Nikolaevsky.

This

railway

leaving to our

the

bridge

over

the


UP THE OB village, in

owing

-

to

its

31

geographical position, had grown

a few months to considerable dimensions.

Where

a year ago there were only a few stray huts, nearly

20,000 inhabitants, chiefly colonists, had

up

their

abode,

now taken

and the Government was on the

BRIDGE OVER THE

OB.

point of converting the place into a town.

Boldyreff

and

the

Ispravnik

agreeably during the

we were due

The banks

journey

early on

of the

Ob

May

we entered

to

General us

most

Barnaoul, where

30th.

presented on either side low

rolling steppes, mostly bare

as

entertained

and cultivated

land,

but

the vast Altai district pine forests and


AFTER WILD SHEEP

32

THE ALTAI

IN

cedar woods were to be seen, and grew denser as

we advanced.

Villages were extremely scarce,

steamer calling only at four or during the

forty

distance by

land

we were on

hours

much

is

good

sixteen hours with

The

board.

and takes about

shorter,

but owing to

horses,

the

landing-places

five

the

wide zigzags of the river and the comparatively slow pace at which we went against the strong- current, '

we

I

expect

hardly

could

At the few

sooner.

was struck by the

bushes

in full

bloom

snowy - white

with

nightingales sang

was

;

cloudless,

wild scenery.

in

our

reach

to

destination

where the steamer halted

stations

beautiful

rock-cherry

of

sight

the banks were literally covered flowers,

to

In addition to

of

The weather

praise of spring.

and added

numbers

which

in

enjoyment of the

the

the General and

this,

the Ispravnik gave highly interesting descriptions of the

regions

we were about

information on the

sportsman rienced

in

many

High were our will

to

their ways,

understand

the

the

We

same

inter-

expectations, and every

we expe-

feelings to

which we so

did our best

share these accounts with

who were under

with valuable

Siberian tales and

anticipation of the sport

keenly looked forward. lating

visit,

Kalmuks and

mingling their accounts with anecdotes.

to

spell

the

in

trans-

Littledales,

as ourselves.


BARNAOUL

On May naoul,

we came

30th, at 8.30,

and landed

house at our disposal, Eastern hospitality,

of

we drove

gratefully accepting his invitation,

his residence.

the

his

new proof

thus giving us a

sight of Bar-

in

General Boldyreff

safely at nine.

had most obligingly placed

and,

33

Barnaoul

only town of

personally

to

Emperor.

the

in

century by one of

my

in

the largest and practically

which belongs

the Altai district

Empress Elizabeth

stands

is

to

was given

It

to

the

middle of the eighteenth

the

whose monument

ancestors,

one of the squares of Barnaoul, and has

been ever since a private estate of the Crown.

The whole

area of the

wooded

square

miles

mines,

iron -works,

of

and

Government country,

is

Madame

coal.

over 200

containing silver

Boldyreff

received us with the greatest kindness, and housed

Having packed up a

us in most luxurious rooms.

few more supplies, we carted our luggage next day (in

order not to be delayed by

it)

town lying on the junction of the and thence it

to

to

Ob

Bisk, a small

and Bia

Ongudai, where we would have

on ponies, and sent

it

were

to

rivers,

to load

on with Joseph and our cook

accompany the twelve heavy

Littledales

for

start

cart

loads.

The

on the following day by

short stages.

We

postponed our departure

until the 3rd of June,


AFTER WILD SHEEP

34

intending

straight

travel

to

where we expected

baggage

find

to

THE ALTAI

IN

through

our companions and the

safely arrived.

The weather was

cold and rainy during the whole

On

time we remained at Barnaoul. climate

and winter

No

long and dreary.

is

the district, not even apples.

In

town under General

the

We

vision.

found

an

In the

to

was

told

my

me

in

museum, with district

:

Wild

great astonishment,

had been shot many years

neighbourhood of

the

in

appeared

I

grows

meantime we

Boldyreff's super-

interesting

Sheep, Ibex, Maral, and, to a Tiger, which

fruit

the

specimens of stuffed animals of the

before

the whole the

very severe, being" extremely continental,

is

visited

Ongudai,

to

Barnaoul.

This

very unlikely, though not impossible.

museum we saw

ogical collection,

a fine geological and mineral-

and a

well -supplied library, chiefly

containing works on the Altai, by Tchichatcheff, the

Russian

known

traveller,

Bunge and Ledebour,

well-

botanists, with splendid plates of the different

plants of the district. interest

I

was

also struck

by the active

which the authorities at Barnaoul take

welfare

and

interest

which seemed to

average

in

For

the

education

of

the

me

to

common

in

the

people,

an

be much above the

comparison with that of European Russia.

instance,

there

is

a special

hall,

with a garden


DEPARTURE FROM BARNAOUL attached to

A

it,

committee

converted into a public reading-room. has

been formed

with

encouraging theatrical performances people,

35

the

for the

view of

common

and several elementary schools are kept and

maintained by this association. After having Barnaoul, as

bade adieu

we had

to

decided,

our early

hosts,

on

we

June

left

3rd,

provided with detailed maps through General Boldyreff's

kind attention,

carriage,

and

which he lent us

in till

his

own comfortable

we reached Ongudai.


ARRIVAL AT KOSH-AGATCH.

CHAPTER

II.

From Barnaoul through Bisk and Ongudai

Kosh-Agatch (Siberian

to

— Tarantass— Bad Roads — Bisk — First sight of the Altai Mountains — The " Maralnik," or Deer Park at Shebalina — Kalmuks — Ongudai — Russian Police Official, M. Meyer — Preparations at Ongudai — Tchouia Valley — Singular Performance of Native Priest — Kosh-Agatch— Customs Official — Zaissan Semion — Taba — Duck

frontier)

Shooting.

The

distance

versts,

the

which the of

or about

aspect

of

Barnaoul and

between

The

120 miles.

low,

rolling,

Bisk

Bia

and

the

Katoun,

district),

the

latter

(the

grassy steppes, through

the

largest

drawing 36

150

country presents

wind the two great tributaries of

Lake Teletzkoie

is

its

the

Ob,

former flowing out lake

in

sources

the

from

Altai

the


SOURCE OF THE KATOl'N.



FERRY-BOATS

Bielukha ciers

on

Chinese ders.

39

gla-

the

bor-

Though

the road was as bad as

reach Bisk late

in

it

could be,

we managed

Soon

the evening-.

Barnaoul we had to cross two branches of the in

ferry-boats,

being

there

These ferry-boats were worked

no in

bridges

to

turn round and round,

motion a huge capstan. so

as

to

enable

our

in

Ob

sight.

the most primitive

fashion by horses tied to two cross-posts

made

to

after quitting

;

they were

thus bringing into

Planks were placed across

tarantasses to embark,

which


AFTER WILD SHEEP

4o

THE ALTAI

IN

was by no means an easy matter, one of the planks breaking down under our weight, and

been

for

the

timely

if

it

had not

impulse given by the driver's

whip we should certainly have taken an involuntary bath.

high,

The water owing

the current

occurred,

to

at

that

time

melting snows

was very

in

strong.

of

year was

very

the mountains, while

No

further

accident

however, and we were safely landed

on

the opposite side.

Pursuant to the Ispravnik's orders, horses awaited us at every post-house, which helped considerably to lessen the delay.

The

which we passed were

eight or ten villages through literally

drowned

in

mud

;

at


BAD ROADS

much persuasion on

required to

wheels were hidden from

our

places

make

me by well

fairly

Most

of

The

and the inhabitants

off.

here

descendants

are

who had emigrated and owing

prosperity,

certain

it

the part of our driver

their size,

peasants

the

Russian colonists a

and

view,

the wretched ponies struggle through.

villages struck

seemed

41

of ground such as

a

to

unknown

is

liberal

of

acquired allotment

European Russia.

in

Their ways and manners are entirely different from

Here one

those of the peasants in Central Russia.

observes a stronger of

spirit

the striking features

before officials

more

natural

education,

and

centralising

the

country

are tracts

noblemen, but consider

at

any

efforts

on

the

from to

all-

civilise

part

of

however,

the of

been stopped, and emigrants from

now being

directed

land

await

still

Another reason

country

I

property which

distance

colonisation,

cultivation. is,

a

it

tended

Carefully

have done more

Further

of

intelligence are

people do not kneel

hands.

residence

than

parts has

Russia large

or

shake

authorities

Government. these

common

;

down

to

of independence and sense

Labour and

personal freedom.

the

believe, exists

in

eastwards,

where

human hands and

for the

welfare of the

absence

of

most parts of

common European


AFTER WILD SHEEP

42

where

Russia, land,

arc

peasants

THE ALTAI

IN

from one

hit

of

ground

to

another

that they never care to improve

year

else.

may be taken away and

Here every peasant

last

one of

the

succumbed

caused a

long

deep that

all

had great

villages

oi

the

traffic

difficulty

street to the other.

ground which next

someone

to

small

a is

proprietor,

cheerfully paid.

wheels

our tarantass

The mud,

delay.

the result being

mud,

overwhelming

the

to

;

allotted

is

and the Government land tax In

tenants

only

and are shifted by decisions of the community

indeed,

at

and

was so

was stopped, and the inhabitants in

wading from one

We

reached Bisk

side of the in

the dark,




MARMOT HUNTING and there found a similar lis

state of things.

took

It

a long time to reach the merchant's house where

rooms had been prepared

The

Littledales

Ongudai,

to

hospitable

which place we

for

and

We

their

decided

case

in

police

were

officials

we needed anything.

Bia and Katoun,

situated on the junction of the

The

down.

Ob

a

impression conveyed to

that of a large dirty village.

It

little

the last town of

is

is

own

the best houses and are well

successful trade in tea

and

furs.

become exceedingly in

frontier,

many Russian merchants who

and

inhabited by

further

my mind was

any importance before reaching- the Siberian

found

start

to

the second largest town of the district, and

is

which rivers unite to form the

has

way

found the authorities most

and the

kind,

placed at our disposal

Bisk

for us.

had already passed on

the next morning".

is

45

great numbers

Of

owing

to their

late years

but

scarce, in

off,

Sable

Marmots

are

the Altai Mountains, and

constitute a large source of revenue to these merchants,

who buy

the skins of these animals by thousands at

a low price (10 to 20 kopecks each) and send them

through the

Irbit

annual

fair to

Europe, where they

are dyed and sold at great profit.

shoot these out after

Marmots

them with a

in

a curious

fox's brush,

Kalmuk manner

;

natives

they go

which they carry


— AFTER

46

SHEEP

WIT. I)

THE ALTAI

IN

MARMOT HUNTING.

As soon

slung to their girdle. outside

sitting

brush less,

;

the

hole

its

Marmot

watching the

distance of a

few

to

proceedings,

peculiar

yards.

of these animals on the

kind of rodent

begin

Marmot

wave

this

from curiosity remains motion-

approaches

hunter gradually

as they see a

they

Mus

and shoots

We hills

citilus.

whilst

the

at

the

it

saw large numbers

as well as of a smaller


HOT SPRINGS

47

At Bisk we were most comfortably entertained

at

one of the merchant's houses, tired, started early

from

distance versts,

or

crossed

Bisk

two

Katoun, without along

the

By means

We

a

Barnaoul

and

similar Bisk,

principally cedar

and

At

appearance but

called

it.

the

between

approached on

villages

we had

all

the

sides,

we passed

seen before.

prevailed everywhere, especially at a place

Bielokourikha,

were unable of

dis-

the country

that

appear

The

larch.

first

to

we

as to

bore the same aspect as those

Deep mud

trotting

plainly

through a dim blue haze, the

woods began

mountains,

we and

Bia

soon

now

could

outlines of the Altai peaks.

presented

Ob,

and were

accident,

steppes.

of ferry-boats

the

of

tributaries

tinguish ahead of us, first

The

was about 220

village

this

to

190 miles.

the

though rather

and,

next morning for Ongudai.

to

where

leave their

There were

said

to

some

in

houses

in

places

people

consequence

be hot springs around

and perhaps a mud bath might have

village,

cured our aching limbs.

Its

curative powers at

all

events had been tried by people from Tomsk, who,

we were

told,

had succeeded

in

getting rid of their

rheumatism.

We

left

this

Siberian Franzensbad, however, after

a hard struggle, and succeeded

in

reaching a village


AFTER WILD SHEEP

48

IN

called Altaiskoie about 4 p.m.,

We

long versts.

THE ALTAI

having covered eighty

were now entering the mountains,

and although the Ispravnik warned us that we had better spend

the night here, there

pass to cross

in

a distance of

versts separated us from Tcherga,

fifty

where we intended

we disregarded

to halt,

We

and continued our journey. wards a

On

our rashness.

for

a

through

small

we began

The

with rocky boulders.

either

tracts

numerous

way

in

The

Towards

dark.

we began

as

the

addition

mud to

in

this

9

p.m.

ascend

to

was swampy

road

horses, In

the

the

and very

to

grope our

the

road grew

Komar

trying

for

pass.

the

being deep and sticky.

places

was a moonless

it

of

very slow, and

we should have

that

we passed

evidence

giving

The advance was

we soon found

steeper

wood,

charred

of

fires.

side

country was well wooded

with larch, pine, and cedar, and at places large

after-

ascent

the

overhung on

valley,

his advice,

were sorry

leaving Altaiskoie, after

change of horses,

quick

being- a difficult

the present state of the roads, and

night,

and

our tarantass, though more comfortable, was a heavy

Thus

weight to drag. struggled

behind,

heavily handicapped

our

friend

dark,

caught us up

in

the

gone on

in

front.

and

the

on

lighter

his

Finally,

we soon

Ispravnik having

at

1

1

vehicle,

p.m.,

our


A "MARALNIK" horses

refused

proceed

to

49

The

further.

jerk

last

aroused us from our pleasant slumber, to find our-

was a cold

muddy

half-way up a long

selves stuck

night,

and the

slope.

It

began drizzling down

rain

as our driver descended from his box, and told us

unless

we had

to

advance

further.

to

send him back to the village

that

and

to

fresh

await his return.

we remained Jour welcomed

our

dragged the

horses

hours,

liberators,

tarantass

thirty

men and

about

who

this

efforts

awkward

top

the

we

a.m.

3

many

after

of

horses,

piteous condition

this

to

be done but

to

for

until

out

Another hour brought us where we met about

In

was impossible

it

Nothing was

hole.

of the

pass,

men on horseback

sent

from Tcherga by the Ispravnik, who could not understand what had happened village at 6 a.m.

driving, fairly

to

We

us.

much exhausted

and took a well-earned

after rest.

We

had now

penetrated the low Altai country.

In the afternoon

we

started

for

Shebalina, distant about forty versts.

was

reached the

twenty hours'

the next village,

Here

the road

infinitely better, the hills slightly higher,

and the

scenery wilder, though presenting the same features.

We

were

to a

Russian merchant trading

installed

in

a nice clean house beloncrinoin

maral horns.

by was a large "maralnik," or enclosure

for

Close Maral,


AFTER WILD SHEEP

5°

with a stream trickling

about

1,50.

Maral,

It

contemplate them at our

was a sight worth near

and,

us,

Here

the grassy slope.

both stags and hinds, were con-

fined, enabling us to

quietly

down

THE ALTAI

IN

these

seeing;

knowing

their

leisure.

deer fed

fine

master's

call,

would gather round him and take bread and oats

DEKK PARK AT SHEBALINA.

from his hands. horns

—

in

Some

of the

stags

carried

good

The

hinds

velvet at that time of year.

appeared

tamer

merchant

told

us)

than

the

seemed

stags, to

which

(as

become wilder

as

the the

time approached for the painful operation of cutting the horns while in the velvet, generally towards the

middle of

June.

Some

of

the

animals

had been




A "MARALNIK bred the

in

the

dogs, in winter,

The

easier.

had been caught

others

enclosure,

woods, when

young, by

53

native

when deep snows render

proprietor

told

us

in

Kalmuks with

that

this

task

one of these

MAKAI. HIND.

stags foot in

had

sought

wooden

the

hills,

fence,

freedom by clearing the seven-

and had remained several months

returning eventually

There are many

way.

district,

show

the

same sporting

similar enclosures in the Altai

especially in the eastern parts,

that

E 2

in

about

6,000 deer

are

thus

and

statistics

enclosed

in


AFTER WILD SHEEP

54

THE ALTAI

IN

parks, constituting one of the most important trades

The

of the country with China.

"in

still

their

sawn

are

velvet,"

For

growth.

full

stags' horns,

they

before

off

purpose

this

while

there

reach con-

is

park a small wooden

structed in one corner of the

enclosure, with a narrow passage sunk in the ground to

The

a depth corresponding" to the animal's height.

stag

is

driven into this until he can neither turn nor

move forward his

;

neck,

then a strong bar

that he

so

fastened behind

is

disabled,

entirely

is

head

his

alone appearing above the level of the ground.

having been cut

horns,

average head fetches from

(/,io to

ÂŁ12), at

fifteen

horns

is

lately

the

measures

district.

are

sufficient this

Government for

animal by

of

sum obtained

the

preservation

one

of

a

Kalmuk, the

the

in

been

has

for

Naturally such

180 roubles.

becoming exterminated

Maral

Our

pound.

per

being a fortune for a wretched

price

law

was

|>rices.

120 roubles

ioo to

roubles

host told us that the largest pair of

Idle

are carefully dried and

China, where they are sold at high

sent to

An

off,

this

and

Altai,

taking

strong

magnificent

being shot

in

the

Unfortunately the means of enforcing"

this

strictly

very

limited

number animal's

prohibiting"

of

owing

officials,

range.

As

its

to

the

want

of

a

and the wide extent will

appear

later,

we


MARAL HORNS spent

weeks

three

only one fine

in

the country, and

in

search

I

I

there

have been

told that

On

met several caravans of our

himself

host

which

latter

towns being well

Maral park

tailing

had

very

is

little

a

Chinese families does not contain

that

journey

we

this precious substance,

and

our

-

return

been

often

many pony

with

Uliassoutai

rich

in

dowry

scarcely any

is

"maral-horn powder."

or

into powder,

used as a medicine, mostly for women's diseases,

and

A

saw-

stags.

China they crush the horns

In

Littledale

it.

whole time he was

came across two hinds

only

and a couple of young

is

of

during the

stag

55

Kobdo and

to

loads

horns,

of

known markets

for

the

them.

most profitable enterprise, en-

A

expense.

tract of

ground bought

rented from the village at a low price, and the

cost of a

wooden

fence, represent

the capital one

all

has to put into the business.

We 6 a.m. to

spent the night at Shebalina, and started at

We

next morning for Ongudai.

were glad

hear from the merchant that the road was good,

a statement which proved to be correct, and that the

ninety remaining" versts would

same evening

to

bring

Shortly after leaving the village steep ascent,

us

early

that

Ongudai.

but luckily

it

we came

proved

to

to a very

be as short


AFTER WILD SHEEP

56

as

it

was

now

road

and

steep,

destination

last

through a

led

About

both sides.

horses

the

This was our

smartly.

THE ALTAI

IN

carried

flat

Kalmuk

the

who produced

(Kalmuk community)

the day

morning, and fishing I

reach

accordingly prepared

Tenga

the

in

lake in the after-

thanked them, through our Ispravnik,

trouble they had taken

the

"dutchina"

every assistance

Roe-deer drives

:

in the

Ongudai,

told

them

numbers, as

I

are

was

a

my

return journey.

very hospitable

told,

to

would probably take

I

advantage of their proposals on

The Kalmuks

for

but being anxious

;

of

a written order

local

me

give

to

They had

as regards shooting.

noon.

At one

country.

from the Ispravnik of Bisk to the

for

on

hills

we were met by a deputation

"pig-tailed" Kalmuks,

programme

with

plateau

over

us

and the

thirty versts before reaching our

we entered

of the last stations

a

pass,

difficult

race.

Their

are gradually decreasing

in

the Altai, where, according to statistics, only six or

seven thousand remain. of

civilisation,

and worship

and Chinese, they shave tails.

Those

missionaries

They

that

carry

are at a very low ebb

spirits.

their

Like Mongols

heads and wear pig-

have been christened by Russian the

usual

head-dress.

On

whole, they are very indifferent to religion, and

many

cases

some members

the in

of a family are converts


KALMUKS to

the

Greek

Church,

57

while

the

others

remain

heathen, such division creating no misunderstandings

whatever amongst them.

and

They

are mostly

live in "yourts," or felt-covered tents,

nomads

with wicker

frames, which they shift from place to place accord-

ing to the time of year and the abundance of grass available

for

their

cattle.

As

regards

their

intelli-


AFTER WILD SHEEP gence,

can only say that

I

inferior

the

Kirghiz,

The

Kirghiz

to

cunning. difference

of

The Kalmuks

elected

native chiefs

tribes),

who

found them a good deal

I

who

are usually clever and

Mohammedans,

being

may have

religion

result.

THE ALTAI

IN

are governed by Zaissans, or

(formerly hereditary

over several

whom

of

Each Zaissan

keep

at

clerk,

who

the

all

"dutchinas,"

their

own expense

Russian

a

and writes

necessary papers for the

hands.

Being

head

of

have

to

official,

or

the

communes,

or

acts as secretary,

clerk gradually takes the his

communes, each

or

has a demitcha at

turn

in

The

affairs.

"dutchinas,"

Russian

in

This

"dutchina."

whole of the commune

entirely

of

chiefs

Government

are responsible before the

for the periodical collection of taxes.

rules

this

contributed to this

he

uncontrolled

into

writes

whatever- he chooses, and becomes ipso facto a petty

who

tyrant to the wretched Kalmuks, fear

of

him,

live in

and make him presents

to

constant

avert

his

wrath.

The Government called visit

who

Altaisky

this

lives at

official

Zassedatel.

At

Ongudai, and

the

time

of

is

our

important post was held by a Mr. Meyer,

seemed

a

very

energetic

accompanied us

to the Siberian

most

procuring

useful

in

gentleman.

frontier,

horses

for

us

He

and proved at

Kosh-


KALMUKS sending us provisions from

and

Agatch,

The Kalmuks wear,

winter

dress in a very peculiar

and summer,

KALMUK

round

confined

summer about soft

they

let

naked

to

shirt

59

the

a

they coat

ZAISSAN.

body by a

the waist.

A

;

sheepskin

large

the upper part of

underneath.

Ongudai.

manner

Rich fur

cap

leather it

strap

;

in

drop, thus going

Kalmuks wear is

their

a

ordinary


AFTER WILD SHEEP

ho

IN

THE ALTAI

headgear, and long boots of soft

often

leather,

of

a bright red colour, constitute their footgear.

Some

own

several

are comparatively wealthy and

Kalmuks

They

thousand horses.

mented mare's

me

to

from which also they

milk,

alcoholic

feeble

feed on "koumiss," or fer-

resemble the Turki

to

many words have nothing Thus good and\bad

is

in

common

;

;

differs

from

salkhyn

terms

equivalent

the

the

Kalmuks apply

no

resemblance

known

Gultcka, but the ewes are

Thus

Arkhar.

task

rock,

(Kotckkor)

as

latter.

but,

;

on

big horn, jahn muss,

The name which bears

with the

Iakski and Taman; water, sou;

the other hand, wind

which

a

though a great

dialect,

white and black, ak and kara is

distil

Their language seemed

beverage.

to a wild

to in

the two dialects

Turki.

in

ram

Kirghiz

the

both languages

seem here and

there to fuse.

A the

few versts before reaching Ongudai we passed

Tenga

many

and saw a great

lake

Cranes,

Ducks, and Brahminy Geese on the marshes round it.

Our

we

halted

district,

Ispravnik

had

to

very

been

been

seek

lake.

told

once,

he had

and had this

that

given

at

the

station

a police

assaulted

refuge

The

us

when

by

official

reason

orders

of to

this

the

Kalmuks,

500

from them

where in

a

boat

on

was

that

he

in

announce

to

the


ONGUDAI

61

Kalmuks a decree augmenting Government

them so

furious,

The ground barren

;

good

would have

that they

he had not succeeded

in

taxes.

news was so unwelcome, and had rendered

This

as

in

him

if

escaping to Bisk.

we proceeded became sandy and

on either side of the road, which was now order,

were the same low

and cedar woods, the

larch

killed

covered with

hills

being priceless for

latter

the inhabitants, who, in autumn, gather large quanto

merchants who

we found most

of the villages

tities

of cedar nuts and

come

for that purpose.

On

our way back

sell

them

empty, everyone being "in the cedars," as the few peasants

we met

told

us.

Ongudai and found the

As

quarters.

a

for

us,

At 4 p.m. we reached in fairly good

Littledales

rooms had been prepared

house belonging to a christened

baggage had arrived

safely with

and our next step was and

stores,

in

The

Kalmuk.

Joseph and the cook,

to secure ponies, saddle-bags,

such as potatoes, for sugar and flour had

been bought at

Barnaoul.

Here

and henceforward everything had

the to

road

ended,

be carried on

horseback.

Ongudai sides

by

is

hills,

a

small

village,

surrounded

on

all

somewhat higher than those we had

passed on our way, and inhabited by a few Russian


AFTER WILD SHEEP

62

officials, I

IN

THE ALTAI

merchants, and converted

Kalmuks.

made acquaintance with Mr. Meyer,

official

be

of the district.

ready on

entirely

packages

fc-

in in

the

He

told us that horses

following

inspecting

the

one month's

day,

which

ponies and stores,

as

Here

the chief police

would

was spent

dividing

we intended

the to




ONGUDAI we

the evening-

In

Father

priest,

in

from the

He

local

had spent about

the

Kalmuk

to this place in his early

offence.

political

visit

He

Ongudai and

having been exiled

some

received a

Constantine.

thirty years at

65

country,

days

was most interesting

for in

having thoroughly studied the Kal-

his conversation,

muks, their language and ways, and having converted

many

dictionary which

and from which

and

were

that

father-in-law,

girl,

me

my

a

available

crowned

had

marrying a Kalmuk

gave

Russian-

he had compiled himself,

extracted

I

He

conversation.

years

He

Christianity.

to

Kalmuk

means

studies

his

of

by

and was spending the few

him

educating his wife

left

to

who

lived in his house.

The same evening we

in

secured the

services,

for

twenty roubles a month, of a Russian, Nicholas by

name, who was found

useful

in

to act as interpreter,

every

emergency.

whom we

and

A

distance of

over 200 miles separated us yet from the Siberian frontier

We

—a

distance which

started

we covered

in

six

June, on horseback.

The

ladies

drove about twelve

miles in a cart, after which they also had to the

ponies

Everyone

days.

from Ongudai at 9 a.m. on the 8th of

which said

it

had

been

would be

mount

prepared

for

them.

impossible

for

ladies'

saddles to pass along the narrow Tchouia path, where


AFTER WILD SHEEP

66

women

the native it,

found

Our caravan

again.

mount

Our

consisted of

fifty

march (about

first

brought us about 4 p.m.

to

Katoun, where we camped

stray

Kalmuk

"yourts."

we

quite settled

pack and ten us to

the

versts)

thirty-five

banks of the river

the

for the

first

current was very strong- here, especially the river fairly broad.

risked

than

easier

Meyer accompanied

Mr.

ponies.

frontier.

much

it

The weather had become

anticipated.

We

men.

ride astride like

and

however,

THE ALTAI

IN

The

time. in

June, and

On

our

The

sun was exceedingly hot,

way we met

several

and clouds of dust covered us as we trotted along the path.

We

some time the Urusoul

followed for

The

on which stands Ongudai.

River,

aspect of the country

presented no perceptible change, and appeared to us

somewhat monotonous same vegetation,

the

occasional forest

fires,

lessness

of

the

:

the

same

same

trees,

rolling

the

giving evidence of

probably caused by the care-

Kalmuks.

Our

tents

were

pitched on a grassy plain overlooking the

A

hills,

"yourt" had been put up

for

soon

Katoun.

our friends, M. Meyer

and the Ispravnik, who both partook of our frugal supper from the hands of night was fresh, and

it

Yassili,

our

cook.

The

was freezing when we started

next morning.

Towards

6 a.m.

we crossed

the

Katoun with our


CROSSING THE KATOUN luggage on a

pushed

sight

for

the ponies, they

and made

into the river,

was a curious in

As

raft.

67

to

swim

were

across.

It

watch them paddling away

to

mid-stream and landing on the opposite side about

200 yards lower down. as lono-

with

In the water they look twice

their tails floating

on the surface behind

CROSSING THE KATOUN.

them. ever,

This operation presented no

and

it

and make a fresh its

right

difficulty,

how-

took hardly an hour to reload the ponies

bank

for

start.

some

We

followed the river up

time,

and here

first

made

acquaintance with the so-called "bomas," the dangers of

which

had

been

so

much

exaggerated.

curious term signifies a place where the path

This

becomes


AFTER WILD SHEEP

68

THE ALTAI

IN

narrow and leads over steep rocks overhanging the stream. to

)ur ponies

(

climbing,

of

sort

this

seemed

without the slightest hitch

and

carried

us

as

for the

ladies,

;

We

did not even dismount.

be well accustomed

to

through

and began ascending" a long steep slope leading

left

to the Saldjar pass (5,500 feet),

from which we would

be able to distinguish the higher mountains

At

distance.

a

they

soon turned off to our

1

we reached

p.m.

view met our eyes.

beautiful

Snow-clad

about a hundred miles off raised their against the light blue sky.

To

less.

with

could just

range, the

glaciers

peaks heads

lofty

horizon was cloud-

the

left

highest

in

streaming down

Siberian

the its

sides

them with the help

distinguish

To

glasses.

the

our right stood the grand, massive, snowy-

white Bialukha Altai,

The

in

"saddle," and

the

appeared the Kurai

;

of

hills,

we our like-

wise buried beneath eternal snow, below which flows the Tchouia, and close to which lay our

Agatch. to

let

Here we halted

the

ponies

for

some

Round

rest.

innumerable Alpine flowers and

which were

tied bits of white

my

inquiring the

this

was the manner

meaning of

to

Kosh-

in

order

were scattered

us

rhododendrons, to

and red ribbons. this,

I

was

told

On that

which Kalmuks honour and

in

sacrifice to local spirits

way time,

;

we

afterwards found similar




KALMUK OFFERINGS ribbons on almost every pass

descent awaited

us.

The

the slow pace at which

was very

trying.

of the river

Inia,

we

crossed.

71

A

steep

heat was intolerable, and

we were

obliged to advance

At 4 p.m. we reached the banks a small tributary of the

where we pitched camp

Katoun,

after a thirty-verst march.


AFTER WILD SHEEP

72

released.

It

IN

THE ALTAI

was, indeed, a ghastly sight.

Towards

evening the wind began blowing, and waving the legs of the skins to

and

gave them an appearance

fro,

of dancing at the end of long poles.

Early next morning we

lifted

camp, reaching the

KALMUK OFKERIN

junction of the Tchouia

about river,

10

a.m.

We

which we now had

As we advanced,

River and the Katoun

branched

off

at

up the former

Kosh-Agatch.

to follow to

the country gradually

grew wilder

;

here and there the river ran through narrow gorges,

and the path became more

difficult

for

the

horses.


AS

WE ADVANCED, THE COUNTRY GREW WILDER.



TCHOUIA VALLEY There were no more signs of "

yourts

75

villages

witnessed the presence of

"

;

only a few

human

beings,

and the occupants of these were so frightened the sight of us that they would rush

under the rocks

off

At

our caravan had passed.

until

at

and hide

"waving the legs ok the skins to and fro."

4

p.m.

we reached

banks of night,

his

He

yourt

Tchouia,

ponies

Here

versts. sight.

the

the

in

a

the

place

Iodro,

called

where we camped

having

had

a

march

on the for

of

the

forty

Ispravnik promised us a curious

sent for a

Kalmuk

priest

who

lived

in

the neighbourhood, and on the latter's


76

AFTER WILD SHEEP

arrival

with

the influence of

supposed

whom

Kalmuks

us.

priests

their

live

in

are greatly under

or "kaams,"

who

communion with

close

are

spirits

they invoke, and through whose power they

receive "

to

THE ALTAI

implements, ordered him

his officiating

perform before

to

IN

the

Kamlanie

of

gift

which

"

prophecy.

The

we witnessed

invocation

or

evening",

as

that

KAI.MUK "YOUKT.

we the

sat

a

in

circle

following"

down,

up

holding"

roughly carved senting

the

in

spirit

the

kaam,

display.

The

round

strange a

tambourine

wood a he

of

knelt

priest

was

which

on

diabolical

usually

consisted

figure,

invoked

repre-

from

;

this

instrument depended a quantity of coloured ribbons, similar

to

odd-shaped the

those trees.

Kalmuks

we saw

When

generally

attached

to

bushes

and

wishful to consult a spirit

attach

a

bit

of

ribbon

to


;

A GOOD OMEN

formance, ending-

god

the

him

appease the

deception

spirit's

his

beating

his

cow,

animal

Such

wrath.

or

is

supposed

is

the constant

tambourine,

sight

see

to

slowly

at

then louder and louder

of

ecstasy,

uttering

first,

Finally,

deity.

the

that

told

questions. terpreter)

yell,

was

to

asked

I

of

spell

he gave a loud spirit

whether

I

(of

ready course

should

I

was

answer

my

and

through

many

kill

sheep) with white patches on

(wild

down a

precipice.

I

familiar

his

the

in-

wild sheep

the reply came, in a hollow voice, that a "

hurled

spirit's

he got into a state

till

under the magic

man

the

incomprehensible and savage sounds into the ear,

goat,

Kalmuk's

the

in

This

fancy.

was a strange

It

per-

his

which the wretched natives are sub-

to

jected.

begins

horse,

a

particular

possession has taken

then

announcing an order from

his

in

give

to

according as a

to

who

kaam's tambourine,

the

77

Kotchko

"

him would be

took this as a g'ood

omen, and rewarded the old rascal with a couple of

roubles.

Mr. Meyer told

me

ago there were two well-known district,

whose their to

that a

rival

few years

kaams

in

the

and that they once quarrelled on the question

spirit

god

was the stronger.

Both began invoking

manner

It

in the

just described.

have been an exciting scene,

for

was said

they reached such


7

AFTER WILD SHEEP

8

a pitch of exaltation

them

fell

THE ALTAI

IN

that one of

after a few hours

senseless to the ground, and died shortly

The

afterwards.

kaam was thereupon

other

Kalmuks

garded as the conqueror, and crowds of used to throng round his

"

Kalmuks do not bury

their

corpse

on

where

it

wooden is

animals

other

profanation

simply

of

of

soil

to consult his spirit.

but

dead,

Mongols to

bury

branches,

vultures

consider

their

the

place

with of

disposal

the

prey.

the

"

strewn

planks

at

left

yourt

re-

dead,

and a

it

and

them on the spot where they died

leave

;

they do not even allow bodies of Russian merchants

who happen

to

die

in

Mongolia

sometimes remove the corpse

The Government has this

in

;

Russian

into

territory.

taken measures to prevent

the Altai, as well as the

of animals in

lately

be buried, but

to

inhuman treatment

but these ancient customs

still

prevail

the remoter parts of the country.

We nth)

whose

Here

spent the whole of the following day (June in

marching up the valley of

muddy also

waters

we had

flowed

to pass

the

Tchouia,

beneath

rapidly

us.

frequent "bomas," which

rather delayed our journey, ponies refusing at places to

advance over the steep craggy path.

however, to reach our destination

having covered another

fifty

versts,

We

that

managed,

night,

after

and camped by


rASSING A "BOMA.



THE "KURAI STEPPE" the

side

of

small

Here

Tchibit.

the

a

on

tinguish

either

the Tchouia,

the scenery changed as

Kosh-Agatch

loftier

tributary of

Si

plateau.

and

side,

snowy peaks

in

the

we neared

The mountains grew we

could

plainly

dis-

start at 5

a.m.

the distance.

Next day we made our customary


AFTER WILD SHEEP

82

just

above

the

path at

victim

their

my

to

dismounting,

was unable

owing in

when

That day

nearly

As

my

my

bolted.

from the

foot

a

was

I

stirrup,

and was dragged along

boots,

awkward

fell

I

the girths of

suddenly kicked and

nailed

most

1

pony.

tighten

disengage

to

hours,

several

for

Kalmuk

order to

in

my

to

the

followed,

foot.

vicious

horse

the

saddle,

we

as

us,

THE ALTAI

IN

some

position

the brute luckily stopped.

yards,

fifty

got out of this

I

with severe bruises on head and arms.

We

Kouickhtonar, the

reached

Kosh-Agatch, towards 6 p.m., or

versts,

about

asserted

(Capra anxious,

all

these

in

Kalmuks

however,

to

make acquaintance

Wild Sheep, we decided

all

Ibex

i.e.

As we were

hills.

sixty

High mountains

and the

sides,

were many "bouns,"

there

that

sibirica),

after

before

a march of

miles.

forty-five

surrounded us on

camp

last

chiefly

with

the

Ibex on

our

we were again on

the

to

for

try

return journey.

At

7

a.m.

on June

13th

move, and towards noon entered

Agatch little

The

plateau.

under 6,000

feet

stretching about sixty width, bordered tains,

on

especially to

all

plateau

at

a

is

above the versts sides

the south

in

by

last

the

Kosh-

wide steppe, a

level

length fairly

and west.

of the sea,

by forty high

The

in

mounriver


AND DUCKS

SWANS, GEESE, Tchouia Hows through smaller is

tributaries,

the largest.

of

it

together with several of

its

which the Tchagan-Burgaza

Numerous

lakes, ponds,

are scattered about on the steppe,

breeding-places for

83

and

and marshes

good

afford

Swans, Geese, and Ducks

of

all

KOSH-AGATCH

kinds

which swarmed

thought

I

there.

It

might get a chance

to

was here secure

that

the

which Mr. Alpheraki was so eager to obtain. birds

seemed very tame, and we passed quite

to several lots.

A

couple of

a few yards at our approach.

I

duck

The close

Swans only swam away

The

steppe over which

we were now advancing had probably been one huge


AFTER WILD SHEEP

84

lake

former days

in

surrounding"

be

to

appeared to confirm

plateaus bear this

of

mark

In

Mongolian

and grass

denoting

at different heights,

The ground

was sandy and barren with patches of there,

almost

fact,

and Tibetan

the gradual drying-up of these regions.

and

its

and

watermark,

ancient

the

above

feet

this supposition.

round

mountains

the

all

a well-defined line along the

some hundreds

hills

seemed

level

;

THE ALTAI

IN

here

alkali

affording poor grazing'

scarce,

for the ponies.

One

could

distinguish

growing beside them. of the

from

the glorious

now had

opposite the few

At

2

wooden huts which were Tchouia had

near and yet so

as there

river

bring-

we found

p.m.

destination, but the

The

good view

far,

to find

told that a couple

Kosh-Agatch would

Land.

a

us to the

ourselves

be our

to

be crossed

to

was no sign of a

was broad, and no

are

generally

Strange to say,

swollen

Russian

by

melting

merchants have

attempted to build a bridge at tea caravans are

;

so

boat.

ford existed for miles

above, especially at this season of the year, rivers

of

shrubs

few

where we expected

Wild Sheep, and were

of days from

Promised

We

to the south,

hills

beds

the

afar

by the greener grass and a

streams

this

place,

becoming more and more

when snows.

not

yet

though frequent.


ZAISSAN SEMION

Owing

to

carried

want

this

away and

85

goods

bridges,

of

A

lost in the river.

are

often

small raft

was

soon ready, the Ispravnik having warned us of the

and sent orders

difficulty,

front

in

to

was

it

brought

As

wooden buildings used

Russian Customs

We

and

spent

evening",

of a few

as shelter for goods, of two

and of a small missionary

official,

were put up

a

in

The whole

rainy.

drying

in

the

in

one of which was inhabited by a

or three houses,

cold

village

fair

of

baggage

our

flour,

all

Weather

room.

the

and

custom-house yard presented a curious strewn

for the

consists

late

in

The

thoroughly damped.

church.

next day

was

stores.

The

sight.

It

potatoes,

salt

— everything"

we made acquaintance with

Kalmuk

by Mr. Meyer in

was

over with our wet clothes, bedding, rope, drying

in

the

which luckily peeped out at the right moment.

energetic

Our

timber that could be found.

to the river all the

crossing was effected without accident.

luggage,

down

bring'

in

chief,

sun,

Here

the Zaissan Semion, an

who had been summoned

order to superintend our expedition

procuring for us the best horses he could muster

in

the country,

a

christened

and the most

native,

average of

Kalmuk

before,

Zaissan,

the

and

a

reliable

great

intelligence.

men. deal

As

I

He was above the have said

the elected chief of a tribe,

is


AFTER WILD SHEEP

86

almost omnipotent

over his subjects

being

civilisation,

We

if

at

such

and generally

rules

a most arbitrary fashion, Govern-

ment control amounting habitants

THE ALTAI

his district,

in

in

IN

the it

very

to

lowest

may

be

little,

and the

possible

in-

decree of

called.

were several times witnesses of punishments

inflicted

Mfcgi

on Kalmuks by the Zaissan's orders

•

%^fcL -^M

for slight


TAB A sonic hundred yards, beating

with for

his

the

knotted

whip.

In

87

him as hard as he could

we

the afternoon

Four dismal

hunters.

creatures

sent

presented

themselves, stating- they were willing to accompany us,

We

and that they knew the ground up kept hearing the words

our interpreter translated

Taba was one to secure him,

him

to the frontier.

Kotchkor bar" which

"There

of the four men.

are wild

I

sheep."

was very anxious

having been told that Major Cumber-

land had employed

found

"

him the previous

exceedingly

useful.

PUNISHING A KALMUK.

We

year,

and had

certainly

all


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

88

agreed that he was by of

them

Poor

all.

far the

little

that he died soon after

as a monkey,

Europe, where

keenest and cleverest

fellow,

we

have

I

He

left.

and kept urging us I

am

to

lately

heard

was as sharp take him to

afraid he would have become

;om kosh-a<;a'i

a dreadful

scoundrel,

though

in

his

own sphere he

enough, and at times witty and amusing.

was

well

He

spoke a few words of English, which he used

to

pronounce with

his native accent,

and nothing was

more funny than to hear him go through his short vocabulary

of

the

Anglo-Saxon

dialect.

Towards


DUCK SHOOTING evening Littledale and brought

went out

I

There were

way

back, however,

We

and shot a few.

we came settled

Grebes

and a

said to be Antelopes

(A. gittturosa) on the steppe, but

our

and

after ducks,

Eared

back half a dozen

couple of Geese.

89

we saw

On

none.

across large herds,

for

the

our friend the Zaissan, allowing each

prices

man

with

a rouble

a day with the promise of a small present at the end of the journey. rate of all

As

for the ponies,

100 roubles for ten horses a month.

seemed quite content with

decided

we agreed

to

set

forth

on

the

this

at

They

bargain, and

following

Zaissan Semion accompanying us to our

camp

at the

first

two days' march from Kosh-Agatch.

we

morning, shooting


-

CHAPTER

.

III.

Kosh-Agatch — Steppe — Camp — Up Tchagan-Burgaza Valley — First sight of Wild Sheep — Kotchkor — Arkhar — Snow Bridge — Pitching Camp — First Shooting Camp — Kalmuk Vocabulary Cold Nights— Stalks— The Happy Valley {Bain-Tchagan) — More

Strut from

Stalks— Snow and Wind.

Haying concluded

our

all

preparations

at

Kosh-

Agatch, dried our baggage, and placed two months' stores

under lock and key

in the

Customs warehouse

we

(taking with us provisions for a month), at

noon on June

presented an unusual sight.

over

by the

began

Zaissan,

which were quartered

started

Early that morning the place

15th.

in

Our Kalmuks, presided catching

a large

the

wooded

horses,

enclosure,

with lassos, Littledale and myself picking out those

we considered skilful

enough

the best. in

Although the natives were

the art of lassoing, this job took

a couple of hours, numerous misses being scored, and after a

miss the ponies having to be driven round 90


START FROM KOSH-AGATCH again into the

was

when

corner,

fatal

91

the deadly noose

we had

be hurled round the neck of the one

to

Our baggage, ready

pointed out.

be loaded, was

to

scattered about on the ground round the enclosure,

and as soon as a horse was caught he was instantly hobbled and converted

into

a

Many

pack-pony.

refused energetically this degrading work, and began

jumping and kicking got

until 1

All

midday, when at

this

till

Renewed

delayed our departure

success crowned our

last

they

and the horse had

often brought similar results,

be abandoned.

to

were worth

unaccustomed burden.

of their

rid

trials

for all they

efforts.

must acknowledge that the very process of loading

seemed

to

be

familiar

to

the

Kalmuks, and was

carried through in a masterly way.

was

Nicholas, job,

also

Our

interpreter,

thoroughly acquainted with the

probably owing to his practice with the numerous

which pass through the

caravans

by

struck

this,

comparison

in

country.

with

I

previous

was ex-

periences in other regions, the Caucasus, for instance,

where the

art

of loading a horse for a long

and economising rope

We

bade farewell

loo

where,

Ispravnik and Mr. Meyer,

us not to cross the Mongolian o

we were

refuse to follow us,

march

far inferior.

to the

who both kept urging frontier,

is

assured, our escort

would

and began advancing slowly

to-


92

AFTER WILD SHEEP

wards the

hills

due south.

IN

Our caravan

our four selves (the Littledales, Dr.

THE ALTAI

my

Newsky, Cristo and Gabriel,

wife,

consisted of

and myself),

Vassili

Joseph Abbas, and Nicholas the interpreter,

and

mount

ponies,

fifty

Kalmuks with a

ten

cook,

the

pack

demitclia

.OADINC. A HORSE.

at

their

Semion. likely to for

head,

our

four

hunters,

and the

Zaissan

This was, indeed, an imposing party, more be destined for the conquest of China than

shooting sheep.

It

was with sore hearts that we

gradually saw our numbers growing to such an extent,

but everyone seemed to be wanted, and

we had

to


OUR CAMP put up with

Our way

lay through the Mat steppe

about twenty miles, and, having started so

for in

it.

93

we decided

the day,

the

camp

to pitch

The sun was very warm,

hills.

We

and barren.

passed several

late

at the foot of

the ground dry

small

and

lakes,

soon found ourselves on the banks of the Tchagan-

Burgaza evening.

ceived

which

stream,

we

up

followed

was greatly struck by how one

I

seemed quite

close

at

hand,

and

I

could

believe that twenty miles separated us

However, as we took about

five

is

The

by distances on those plateaus.

the

till

dehills

hardly

from them.

hours to reach our

destination, at the pace of about four miles an hour,

We

there could be no mistake.

camped

that night

on the riverside, at a spot where the stream flows out

we

of a narrow valley, at the head of which distinguish

snowy peaks.

his tent with him,

way

the

in

Our Zaissan had brought

and we were interested

which he kept ordering

in

his

about, to pitch his tent, prepare his food, lay quietly

or

on

his

back indulging

sweet slumber.

attention to that

we

In

fact,

him than they did

sincerely

in

they paid to us,

been

watching

Kalmuks etc.,

as he

pleasant dreams,

and

much more I

must own

hoped he would return home as

soon as possible, which he luckily

had

could

appointed

to

accompany

did,

us

though he the

whole


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

94

journey.

was

It

welcome mood

a

in

next evening, as he explained to us that required his presence in his

would

us on

join

way

our

own

we met him

that

He

back.

duties

official

and

district,

that he

promised

to

supply us every month with fresh ponies and men,

which we readily agreed, especially with regard

to

which, being unshod, would soon become

to ponies,

footsore with constant travelling over rocky ground,

and so be useless

our purpose.

for

who was

Yakoub, the demitcha, caravan- baski, too

weak

pline.

keep the men

to

He in

desert

us.

opposed

We

of side

the

6th,

too,

was

struck

Here and fir

along the right

the

left

camp and entered

the

slopes

on

we advanced, and

the

there

trees,

The were

to

be seen

principally larch,

by the river-bed rows of willow bushes. led

distinctly

Early on the following-

steeper as

occasional clumps of

staff

and possibly

"his happy home," and

we

disci-

was most risky

object

Tchagan-Burgaza.

grew

ground barer.

he,

for the present. 1

it

Mongolia, and that our

strongly

thought

to quitting

morning, June

either

case,

that

question open

valley

good order and

in

explained to us that

to cross the frontier into

would,

our

practically

was a kind-hearted Kalmuk, rather

The

and path

bank of the stream, now and

then ascending the rocks and affording a heavy

pull


"KOTCHKOR" AND "ARKHAR"

descending to the

to the pack-ponies, at other times

As we came

very bottom of the valley.

95

ground we found the slopes covered with

higher

to

fine grass,

resembling Alpine pastures, and fauna similar to that of the Alps, as far as

we came

scattered about on

the

of

them measured

well,

as

we entered

last

Taba seemed

I

at

of

Ovis country.

the

we would

to assure us that

below a high ridge on the opposite to

be

Some

and made our hearts leap

sight with our glasses of

them out

also

Wild Sheep

bed of the stream.

fact,

3 p.m.

some specks side.

young

and

ewes

In

see a herd

Towards

or two on the slopes before evening.

we caught

Here

could judge.

horns and skulls

across

We

sheep

just

made

quietly

There was an unusual movement among

grazing.

the

Kalmuks, who began pointing

the

words Kotchkor and Arkhar predominated conversation.

at

the herd,

As we came

lively

light

grey specks became more conspicuous.

in

a

second,

and a moment

trotted over the ridge.

men,

the

ewes carried

inches long, and larger.

We

all

;

their

in

nearer the

their

soon discovered our caravan

and

They

the heads were up

after

the whole herd

Unlike their Sardinian kinshorns

from ten

to

bodies were of course

were very anxious

unfortunately no other animals

twelve

much

to see the rams, but

came

in sight that day.


AFTER WILD SHEEP

96

We

passed

some

of

IN

many more horns

which

over

taped

curve and over eighteen

in

lying on the ground,

inches

fifty

At a

we were

along the

and great were our

girth,

expectations for the morrow.

path turned to the right

THE ALTAI

place where the

obliged to cross the

stream over a large snow-bridge, which melting

We

fast.

could see the swollen river rushing

furiously underneath

whole

fabric.

It

snow was

the

day a

and gradually wearing away the

was a dangerous enough

just strong

of the ponies, and

was now

we

to carry the

got over safely.

all

Kalmuk, who had been

Luckily,

crossing.

sent back

weight

The

next

for

fuel,

found the bridge gone, and no more signs of snow.

A

little

beyond

this spot the river

westwards, and we a few miles

now

followed up

we reached

till

made a sharp its

left

turn

bank

for

a suitable camping place,

which, our hunters said, was to be the centre of our

shooting operations, and pitched our tents at a few

hundred yards from the stream, mile

march.

totally

We

From

here

different aspect to

the

after a twenty-five

country

presented

what we had seen

were camped on a small grassy tableland,

rounded on

all

sides

by

hills.

The

valley

a

before. sur-

of the

Tchagan-Burgaza here made a bend southwards ami continued for a few miles to the sources of the stream, enclosed between two craggy ridges, on which a good


"THE HAPPY VALLEY" deal of

snow was

still

down from westwards

A

left.

close

97

small torrent flowed

by our

tents, whilst steep

rocks of a reddish hue closed in behind us from the north. its

Eastwards flowed the main stream, effecting

junction, a couple of miles

down, with

its

tributary


AFTER WILD SHEEP

c;S

THE ALTAI

IN

which formed a marshy plateau, over which we used to

on

ride

way

our

happy

"

the

to

The

valley."

ground was stony and barren, with patches of grass here and there, and no trees were to be seen any-

One

where.

could not imagine a more

favourable

country for the haunts of the glorious sheep, though

our actual camping- ground might have been better chosen.

Its

according to

altitude,

The

7,800 feet above sea-level. get was

was our main used to gather

We at

and

resource, all

we

only fuel

could

"

"

yourt

I

the large

in

hired at Ongudai.

poor Vassili's disposal utensils.

Kalmuks

which our

day and bring back

we had

had taken a

cooking

was

aneroid,

dry horsedung, which henceforward

Tezek,

leather bags

my

with

us,

which was placed

and

for

the

kitchen

must own

his

task was not an

his

easy one, though he never grumbled once, or showed

any sign of less,

dissatisfaction.

The weather was

cloud-

and towards evening- the thermometer descended

below

freezing

Visions

me, and

of I

point.

sheep

That

kept

night

constantly

I

slept

hovering

badly.

round

was wide awake when Cristo came

into

our tent at 3 a.m., as we had decided to start as early

as

possible

fortune favoured,

on our to

find

first

and

field-day,

stalk

the

they were enjoying their morning grass.

hoping,

if

rams while


KALMUK VOCABULARY

99

After a frugal breakfast, consisting of porridge and bacon,

me

we drew

lots,

Littledale

and

Fortune gave

I.

the eastern side towards the Chinese frontier, whilst

ground north and west of camp.

Littledale got the

We

divided

the

hunters

taking two of them

in

between

us,

each

of

us

order to try their capacities,

OUR KITCHKX.

and see scribbled

if

they would answer their purpose.

down on

the most necessary to

converse with

my

started,

were entitled

had

a piece of paper a hundred of

Kalmuk

words, so as to be able

two companions, and very soon

got on friendly terms with them.

when we

I

It

was

still

chilly

but from the look of the sky

to expect a fine day.

We

we

crossed the


AFTER WILD SHEEP

ioo

river,

shallow

quite

some way clown at

its

up the

"

the stream, striking

Man)- old

latter.

betraying"

We

Kotchkor."

heads lay about on former

least

at

came across

we passed

No

like

sound was

to

whistle of a

shrill

shadows

that

repeated

I

words, though

I

morning

regaining"

at last!

to felt

still

of

Hares

front of us

off in

the

be heard save, now and

Marmot

The Promised Land heart

in

the

presence

quantities of

and Marmots, which kept darting as

the right

to

off

rode

Bain-Tchagan, and following

junction with the

river-bed,

and

horseback,

on

here,

THE ALTAI

IN

twilight.

then, the

hole.

its

was with throbbing"

It

myself

two magic

those

rather sceptical as to the

presence of old rams on the rolling hillocks, which I

could

cross

are

now

over higher,

and

thought

Mongolia,

country

the

old

patriarch's

haunts

be

confident

of

;

but

success,

"Kotchkor ba" ("There Joseph,

We

must

where

hills

plainly distinguish before us. into

who was our

they

kept

sheep").

of camp,

Moreover,

guide, confirmed the

and had not considered

while to cross the frontier at

to

saying,

statement that Cumberland had found sheep vicinity

the

find

hunters seemed

for

are

to

wilder,

my

principal

I,

it

Fortunately

all.

in

the

worth I

was

soon to be mistaken. After a couple of hours' ride

I

discovered a herd


"HURRAH! KOTCHKOR!" young ones feeding on the slopes

of ewes and

They were about

right.

We

uphill.

to

my

number, quietly grazing

fifty in

immediately

hobbled the ponies,

and

dismounted,

having

them round a corner on the

left

Here began a steep ascent

river-bed.

101

Keeping-

for us.

well out of sight of the herd,

we made

for a

above

command

a good view

us,

from which

could

I

boulder

Just before reaching the top, as

of the country.

peeped cautiously over a

ridge,

my

glass

I

showed me

two or three specks on the opposite side of a wide ravine,

and

Hurrah!

a second

in

Kotchkor!

I

I

made them

out to be rams.

never forget

shall

this

first

acquaintance with the grand Altai sheep as long as I

Although they had

live.

large, strong bodies, the

horns seemed to be their main bulk, and every part the

beasts

seemed

mighty

heads

they

of

slowly away,

or

?

Then

unsuspicious,

patches

their

conscious of impending

evoke admiration and respect

and

they

showing

would their

feed

their

leers.

lighter

again,

dark grey

longer winter clothing

of

and withers, nose,

to

it

the

feeding

up suddenly

lifting if

in

animals by their commanding beauty and

of other

strength

was

concentrated

They were

carried.

now and then

massive sweeping horns, as danger,

be

to

coloured

For some time

I

on

with

backs

their

rumps,

was

entirely

coats,

lost

Roman in

con-


AFTER WILD SHEEP

:o2

templation,

till

my Kalmuks, who had squatted touched my arm and whispered,

one of

down behind me,

"Adar kotchkor

me

of

my

"

as

decided to get above them

I

possible,

This reminded

sheep").

("Kill

and

object,

quickly

as

THE ALTAI

IN

and wait

they fed into

till

favourable ground.

The wind appeared hunters,

I

to

be steady,

leaving

so,

started back in a crouching position,

an hour's

in I

I

walking got round

fast

my and

a place which

to

thought was about 300 yards above the slope where

Here

had located the sheep.

advanced with the

I

my

utmost precaution, expecting to see at

every moment.

my

animals.

began

I

covered either

But, alas to

my men

!

coveted prey

there was no sign of

think

they had dis-

that

when on reaching

or myself,

a ridge overlooking a narrow transversal gully there they stood, the grand old fellows, within in

my

front "

of me, half-way

Purdey

"

at the

up

I

distinctly

feel

heard

They

off,

Again

all

dismally low.

the

fatal

I

Reloading

1

20 yards

Off went

followed by a dozen

and which jumped at

fired

thud

disappeared,

slope.

which staggered, and,

failed to see before,

lightning".

like

flesh.

had

largest,

made

recovering instantly, others

up the

of

another,

my

bullet

however, making

my

rifle

I

was

and into

me

off in

a second at their heels, or rather some hundreds of


STALKING

103 "

Flying

long

snow-

yards behind, their pace equalling" that of the

Scotchman." patches

for

the

they had

up

reached

my

across

lay

direction

follow

Luckily

several

slanting

taken,

tracks

their

me and

a steep, rocky

me

to

till

1

mile,

which, according"

nullah,

to

At

must have crossed.

observations, they

the

in

enabled

good

a

for

hillsides

this

its

bottom flowed a precipitous torrent into the BainTchag'an, whose bed

below me.

I

spy the opposite

to

my wounded rams I

the

On but,

line,

to

hope of finding

still

remained, as

on

distinct blood-tracks

my

great

My

!

I

of

rock

till

I

disappointment,

saw

nullah.

on the

finally

ground

For a good

half-

opposite

side,

sick,

but

without

result,

found a blood-stained stone, and follow-

my

glass the probable direction which the

ram must have taken, there

the

no

chance was now to

only

peered into every recess, spied every ledge

ing with

very

my

saw the herd about

I

inspect carefully the whole of the intervening

and every corner of the hour

down

sat

me, standing motionless on the sky-

behind

staggerers

faint

ravine

up there

looking

a mile above

A

and

done,

fairly

side. in

had come across two

way.

way

could distinguish a long"

I

was now

I

spotted

him

lying,

on a cornice just above the bottom of

stream.

"He

is

mine now," thought

I,

as

I


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

io 4

scrambled noiselessly down amongst the crags

my a

were not yet over,

troubles

descent

steep

lost

with

To my

as

for

reached

I

one of

stones

these

and went crashing down the

balance

its

rolling

but

;

great disgust

hill.

saw the ram slowly get

I

up,

look round two or three times, and walk away.

was I

too

darted

filling

to get

my

shoot,

to

far

down

making up

my

mind,

could tear,

I

boots with earth and stones, and hoping

within range of the animal before he would

be out of

A

sight.

few minutes brought

where he had

place

so,

slope as hard as

the

I

down.

lain

me

now found he

I

had crossed the stream, and was making up the opposite side

at

a steady

had probably increased owing

pace,

his

way

which he

the noise

to

to the

made

I

my desperate rush. He was about 200 yards saw that all would from me in a straight line, and did not take my chance then and there be over if in

I

I

placing

so,

;

myself

putting up the and, confident told,

at

200 yards

my

my

in

and down he

stone dead.

As

"

sight,

Purdey,"

I

was on prize

I

The

fired.

and

bullet

bed of the stream,

my way was

position,

took a long aim

1

rolled to the very

well-earned

from above.

comfortable

a

in

to

have a look

startled

by shouts

There were my two Kalmuks stand-

ing on the ridge

I

had

just

left,

waving

their

caps


— TWO

and pointing

frantically, right.

thought at

I

FINE HEADS

first

the

in

105

direction

was

that this

my

proceedings, especially as

mode

this

wild

my

other

direction

beast,

indicated,

however,

continued,

began

I

and on

there,

all

could not understand

As they

of telegraphy,

wounded they

I

manner

had witnessed

of congratulating me, and that they

a word they uttered.

their

to

their

think of

to

looking

in

a statue,

like

the

stood

a beautiful old ram on an overhanging ledge of rock.

He had

evidently discovered me, for he kept staring

intently

down on

would turn

his

the place where

stood

I

There was no possible hiding, so

full

animal, which, curiously enough, never

got within

1

steady aim, rolled

which

down I

then he

simply followed

I

up the bottom of the nullah within

till

;

head up slowly and watch the hunters.

shot the

150

dragged him down by

He

heart.

and stuck on a his

horns.

bullet

had shattered

also

from

crag,

mediately saw he was the largest of the two. first

inch

yards of him, and, taking a

him through the cliffs

sight of the

moved an

I

im-

My

his hind-quarters to pieces,

and he had probably been bleeding so hard that he

had no more strength

to

move.

The measurements

of the two heads were the following Length along curve.

:


AFTER WILD SHEEP

io6

My

two hunters came down presently, and seemed

be greatly rejoiced

to

("large horn"), and engaged

between each stand.

other,

by

this

able to assert

We

eyesight.

which

down

a comfortable spot.

of

a Scotch

Their

feet at

of

long thick hair,

of

their

with

I

us,

hunting

was

I

by the

close

winter

found

they

bodies,

which

with patches

colour,

the

rest

legs

and,

as

only

my Kalmuks

— remains rumps

and

we grallocked

were exceedingly

taking

Their

the shoulders.

Their

colour,

should say they

I

darker than

coating.

lighter

was about that

size

brown

coats were of a darkish

the

lunch

to

red-deer hind, and

measured nearly four

left

their

though

they both possessed good

that

to

them,

of

having dragged the two dead sheep

stream, after

were of a

at a loss to under-

was

I

experience,

first

sat

a wild conversation

in

judge

hardly

could

I

capacities

They

the day's success.

at

("Well done"), "Jahn Muss"

kept saying " J akshi "

now

THE ALTAI

IN

the

heads

tied

to

We

lean.

and skins

their

saddles,

intending to send back later on for the meat.

was a

difficult

one of the

scramble

down

men had gone

brought down, the stones rolling

away

When we

at

for the ponies,

to fetch at the

It

which

and had recklessly bottom of the gully

every moment from under their

feet.

reached the main stream below, we found


THE HAPPY VALLEY

107

ourselves at the entrance of a beautiful valley, enclosed between steep grassy slopes and rocky pinnacles

Out

above, bearing every quality of sheep ground. of

At

flowed the Bain-Tchagan River.

it

the very

entrance of this valley stood several lower buttress-

which seemed

like hillocks,

At

the head of

to afford capital stalking

a few miles

off,

just discern a fairly high pass, which, as

my

ground.

told me,

was on the very

was the

"

Happy

Valley

it,

could

I

hunters

This

frontier of Mongolia. "

have before mentioned.

I

Later on neither Littledale nor myself hardly ever returned

from

no more

signs

camp, though satisfied

down

place

of

sheep,

it

my

with

decided

I

ladies

first

day's

We

work.

Taba and

to

their saddles

He

Two

!

of

the

p.m.

Here caught

Littledale soon

came

his other hunter

golden vein.

the

in

they

us

trophies.

left

as

the tents towards

welcomed

my

to

followed

where we had

heartily,

2

in

with

from the opposite direction,

and what was our amazement when we saw

hung

return

and covering the same ground as

morning, reached

sight of

to

Seeing

was only about midday, but quite

the stream to the spot

horses,

the

empty - handed.

the

We his

five

heads

had evidently struck a trophies measured well.

had come across a large herd of rams who had

failed to locate the first shot,

and had thus afforded


AFTER WILD SHEEP

io8

THE ALTAI

IN

him several chances of which he had availed

Seven animals the

first

the future, and merry

we gave

We

was our dinner

that night as

an altitude of about

at

and had each only seen one

feet,

for

our experiences.

the ladies an account of

had both found the sheep

9,000

himself.

day seemed promising

of rams,

lot

though probabilities were great that the surroundingcountry was a favourite resort of to

before crossing

theirs.

knowledge

thorough

a

acquire

of

Mongolia, and

into

We

decided

our

ground

started on the

following morning, June

18th,

going

in

westwards,

valley,

with steep crags on either side, led towards

the

direction

the Tarkhaty River, whilst

main Tchagan sources.

our

It

steeds,

was

there

-

I

at

3

was

a.m.,

was

still

the

every

of

hunters

up the

camp

was again

prospect

my

crossed the river,

long-

to

its

when we mounted

pitch dark

sky

a

follow

to

Burgaza stream from

but

Littledale

where

fine

and

cloudless,

and

weather.

We

I,

and trotting

along up the bed of the stream for a good hour,

soon

began spying both

saw several

of

pairs

startled out of the rocks

Animal

life

seemed

sides.

On

I

way we

we

where they were breeding.

Two

very scarce.

Eagles soared over our heads, and

wards 6 a.m. that

our

Brahminy Geese, which

saw a herd of

it

four

or

three

was only

to-

ewes feeding


A HERD OF TWENTY on

the

another

slopes

herd

above us of

again they were

we had

twenty

ing.

Further on

left.

head came

in

ewes and young" ones.

but

view,

At noon

not found a single ram, clouds were gathering

OUR FIRST DAY

fast

our

to

iog

S

BAG.

from the west, and a strong wind began blow-

\Ye could see the snow get up and turn

whirlwinds on the tops, and Taba,

in

who accompanied

me, seemed to think that there was no good to be

done that day. fully,

We

went

on,

however, spying care-

and reached the sources of the

river.

The


AFTER WILD SHEEP

no

was

country

THE ALTAI

Now

and desolate.

wild

we would come

IN

across

pasture

fine

and dark green

grounds with

here

patches

and there denoting-

marshy grounds, which our ponies would

but not a sign of a beast anywhere.

the afternoon especially

we returned the

after

Littledale soon

had

persistently

Fine rocks suggestive of Ibex now stood on

sides,

all

then

such as one meets on the Pamir steppes,

rich grass,

avoid.

and

found

came

several

camp

to

previous in

In

rather disgusted,

day's

success,

with a similar report.

herds of ewes

and

Ibex,

and

He and

had seen a couple of Maral hinds, but of the stronger This was indeed an ewe

sex there was no trace.

day

Our minds were now turned towards

!

Mongolian

side,

mioht have chosen

we decided

to

we thought

which

summer

for their

have a more

surrounding country before

careful

shifting

the

old

resort,

the

rams

though

survey of the

camp

into

the

unknown.

We

were up

at 3 a.m., as usual,

on the following

morning, but found heavy clouds rolling

and a strong south-west wind blowing.

was 6

low, so

a.m.

all

we thought the

it

in

the sky,

The barometer

was no use going

out.

At

ground round our tents was under

snow, several inches thick, and the wind turned into a gale, raging furiously the whole day.

This was


m

BITTERLY COLD a

most disappointing waste of

highly

disheartened

which was,

at

as

we

sat

time,

and we

felt

under our canvas,

every moment, on the verge of being

torn to pieces, or carried off by the sweeping gusts

of the hurricane.

It

was

bitterly cold

too,

and

all

our warmer outfit was badly wanted.

OUR CAMP UNDER SNOW.

By evening but the storm

we got up

at

the

snow round the camp had melted,

still

3

a.m.

steadily from the west.

the ground frozen hard. at

a lower altitude

lasting

raged, the

all

wind was

The

cold

night, still

and as blowing

was intense and

In hopes of finding sheep

we decided

to

have a

try,

and


ii2

AFTER WILD SHEEP

started

accordingly.

my

had secured

me

with

the

far

Tchagan stream, where

and kept assuring me that such

being'

buttresses

Valley

;

here

We

rode

for

of

Happy

the

The wind seemed

rather glad

felt

I

were not

they

would have been quite impossible

it

of the

spied a herd of ewes feeding quite

I

and

shifty,

rams,

couple

a

we reached

till

low down on the slopes opposite. very

and

guard,

their

entrance

the

at

approaching

for

on

less

hours without seeing anything, small

I

Taba came

trophies.

suspicious.

less

upon the country

fell

more favourable

latter

altogether

-

lot

two

first

time,

this

weather was sheep,

Bain

up the

eastwards,

My

THE ALTAI

IN

Here we dismounted, leaving

approach them.

to

the

ponies hobbled on the river-bed.

Taba

seemed

sheep up the

I

put

up

my

Kotchkor

was

On

wind.

not

we

winded

in

I

front of

more

at

times,

us.

As

into a dip. "

asked him.

do not know").

crawling

find

moved

beasts

arkhar ba?"

Belbess

"

So we advanced

and

chancing

the

reaching a small saddle, there stood two

ewes amongst some rocks

where

should

and soon pointed out some-

glasses the

ba,

his answer, ("I

cautiously,

old

valley,

moving about 400 yards

thing

"

we

confident

lay. us.

By

at a

extraordinary

Back

few yards from luck

w e went on r

all

they -

fours

had in


A GOOD STALK order

not

them,

disturb

to

detour, continued

lot

up

1

As

have actually seen

down and

time

this

watched them make

I

all

to wait

Taba seemed

again. after

as they could not

far,

and decided

us,

short

a

off

ram among them.

Zeiss distinctly spotted a fair

opinion,

who

they suddenly

for

thought they might not go

settled

where we soon

heads and galloped away, disappear-

their

ing over a boulder.

my

valley,

of ewes,

had evidently got our wind, lifted

making a long

and,

up the main

caught sight of another

113

my

share

to

we

off

halt

they

till

started

in

their direction, following up the narrow ravines be-

tween the low rolling

hillocks,

the best hiding-places.

and

faces,

joining

the

rocky

them afforded

and carefully choosing

The wind pinnacles capital

here blew

with

in

small

stalking,

if

sheep had not shifted to higher slopes.

our

ridges

only the

We

were

cautiously advancing in this manner, like Red-Indians

on the war-trail, inspecting every corner of ground

below us from every crag we came across on our way, right

when in

finally

order

suddenly took come.

So

I

to

Taba, who had gone on look

off his

crept

up

over an cap to

intervening

and beckoned

where he

to

to

my

ridge,

me

to

lay motionless,

and peeping over a ledge of rock caught sight of a fine old ram, quietly enjoying his

morning

siesta


AFTER WILD SHEEP

IN

THE ALTAI

4^ ENJOYING HIS MORNING SIESTA."

and chewing

his cud,

about eighty yards below

Others were probably indulging further down, but

was unable

and as

I

was

at

I

in

us.

a similar process

could only see the one animal,

to

resist

temptation.

Moreover,

comparatively close quarters and

the

wind being strong, he might suspect something every moment, and dash off without giving chance.

Feeling sufficient excuse,

aim and

fired.

as

I

expected,

The other

beast rolled

I

at

me

a

took a steady

over dead, and,

rams jumped up from under

the rocks and were out of

sight

in

a second,

the


PASS INTO

MONGOLIA

ground presenting a sheer dip

115

They

at that place.

appeared again several hundred yards beneath

all

making

us and crossed the stream, side.

them climbing

They

up

continued

one

in

the

left

up

lot

a herd

the

heads,

beautiful

carried

slopes

with

joined

presently

rams

for the opposite

counted eighteen altogether, as

I

hill.

I

watched

the

of of

Some

though

nullah.

and

ewes,

the

of

owing

had

I

failed

had

animal

to

conformation of the ground,

the

to

a

get

rolled

I

Un-

had bagged seemed as good as any of them. luckily,

the

one

second shot.

I

my

found

down some way, and had been

stopped by his horns catching on a ledge of rock. I

taped them on the spot; they measured 55 inches

along the curve by 17^ inches girth, 39^ inches from tip

to

down

tip.

to

As my

hunters grallocked

him,

sat

I

watch the herd that had now halted half-way

up the slopes and were examining our proceedings with the utmost curiosity, but, scared as they were,

they

soon

main

ridge.

trotted

As

away and disappeared over

for us,

we continued up

the

the valley

with the intention of finding a favourable pass into

Mongolia, none of our Kalmuks having ever passed the frontier.

As we advanced, rocks

more frequent

the valley ;

became narrower and

as for the dividing saddle,

it


nG

AFTER WILD SHEEP

seemed

to

me

impossible to attempt crossing

pack-ponies, though of

some

THE ALTAI

IN

with

it

could only judge from a distance

I

no time to inspect the place

miles, there being

On

thoroughly that day.

our

way we came

across

numerous horns of Maral (Cervus canadensis asiaticus or Ccrvus eustephanus) that had been evidently shed

many

years before, white and weather-worn as they

My

appeared.

abounded

hunters

told

me

country

the

that

Maral ten or twelve years ago, but that

in

they had nearly

been shot

all

for the

sake of their

precious antlers, and that the few that remained had

taken refuge

We

side.

in

also

the

wooded

saw a great number of sheep horns

the bed of the stream,

been

killed

on the Siberian

districts

in

whose owners had probably

by wolves, or had been starved

by severe winters and heavy snowfalls.

to death

The

country

bore altogether a touch of wildness and desolation.

Towards noon we were caught and returned

storm, well

-

deserved

spirits

my

;

camp

to

trophy.

I

found

Happy

That dinner

with

p.m.

in

by mistake

my low to

had convinced himself of the

error by discovering our party as

the

3

Littledale

taken him

hunters had

his

ground, and he

a dreadful hail-

in

at

we were

entering

Valley.

evening roast

Vassili,

fillet

of

the

cook,

kotc/ikor,

produced

which

we

for

found


A FRESH START excellent.

As

for the broth,

117

was quite good, and

it

henceforward replaced Maggi's cousommd, which we Later on

had been constantly using.

when

the animals

their meat,

owing

became

in

we had

fatter,

to their strong

the season, to

abandon

sheepy flavour,

for

RETURNING TO CAMP.

that of their domestic kinsmen,

procured us the

June till

21st,

7 a.m.

the

On

the following morning,

the wind had not abated, and that

went towards successful.

latter.

where stray Kirghiz

my

As

direction

we

camp.

old nullah

for

of

left

myself,

the

where I

valley

it

was not

This time Littledale I

started

had twice been with

westwards.

Taba It

in

was


AFTER WILD SHEEP

n8

THE ALTAI

IN

and we rode a long

certainly not a promising day,

way without even expecting

was a wider one than that of Bain-Tchagan,

valley

more overhanging

with

The

to see anything.

on

crags

either

bottom flowed a

nameless

small,

At

an immense side-corry to our

A

but rocks and snow.

We

spied

but saw nothing

left,

little

the

forming

stream,

here and there small lakes and swamps.

and

side

no nice boulders with fresh grass between.

further

discovered

I

a herd of female Ibex on the opposite side, probably

same which

the

but no

viously,

not

did

the

in

being

likely

rolling

hills

Littledale

to

approach to the

apparently a

crossed

stream

for

in sight

at

ground

me

seemed

my

fact,

with suitable pastures, and, it

would have been a

At a spot where a long

it.

main valley all

me

to

be

them

no

should

we

difficult

job

r

gully

came

us.

Further on

we

and followed down another

two or three miles

distinguish

w ere

spied a large herd of sheep,

I

ewes, far above

low divide,

that they too

the place

imagination as

There

sheep.

for

some 800 yards

to

in

;

appeal to

least

in

till

another herd came

front of us, feeding

the foot of the right slopes.

told

to

males

signs of

have found game,

down

had seen two days pre-

My

down

telescope soon

were ewes, together with what fair

well

rams, though

owing

to

1

the

was unable bad

light.


A LARGE HERD OF SHEEP, APPARENTLY ALL EWES."



AN UNSUCCESSFUL STALK

121

Taba thought they were worth approaching, and began making our plans

dismounted,

valley

towards them,

The

hiding. to

we the

There was no question of continuing down

stalk.

the

so for

our right,

only

way

there

no

being

possible

was to ascend a steep

follow the ridge,

hill

and come down the

THE HAPPY VALLEY.

nearest lateral ravine to a place which

was about wind,

I

200 yards from

who was

movements of they shifted to

We to

left

considered

where they

thought, blew uphill, so off

Taba's approval. hunter,

I

we

fed.

The

started, with

the ponies with

my

other

keep a sharp look-out over the

the animals, and signal to us in case

other ground.

It

was

fated,

how-


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

122

ever, that the

day was not

ascent was dreadfully

hour and a half

and

took us a good

it

near the summit.

get

to

The

prove a success.

to

steep,

the

In

meantime heavy clouds had been gathering, and the wind blew stronger every moment as we struggled up the precipitous

Presently

cliffs.

more and more dim and a regular covering us up with snow.

intense that

we were

rocks waiting

the

dilemma Taba suggested

that

we had

The

easier said than done. to

be worked backwards on

hard to the rocks

us

;

snow and

in

hail

We

somehow succeeded absolute darkness.

Moreover,

we had

simply blinded

his stalk

to cling

foothold on

preventing

us,

the

few pro-

took a couple of hours to reach

groping

in

We

his

returned to

and thoroughly drenched. in

This

!

descent at places

the horses, and that only thanks to Taba's

failed

this

order not to be blown off our

from securing a firm

truding ledges.

In

back

all-fours.

such was the force of the gale that

feet

amongst

lay

better go back

Go

the weather clearing up that day.

was

we

storm to pass.

there seeming to be no chance of

to lower ground,

had

on,

and the cold so

us,

nearly frozen as

for

came

In less than five minutes

everything was white around

the

became

light

blizzard

owing

As

for

skill,

who

way down

camp

in

half frozen

Littledale,

he had

to uncertain wind, but

had


A STORM managed brought

to

a young sheep, whose meat he had

kill

back

123

for

the

pot.

These

constant

gales

from the west lasted during almost the whole week

we spent pitched

at

this

most

camp.

must own that we were

I

unfavourably

regard

with

to

this

;

yvtf WAITING FOR THE STORM TO

PASS.

sweeping gusts would come down the narrow gully westwards and meet those from the main valley just at

the place

where we had camped, thus joining on

our housetops

from

two

different

directions.

and other considerations prompted shift

camp

into

Mongolia,

where,

us

This

strongly

moreover,

to

we


i2 4

AFTER WILD SJIEEP

hoped

to

come

rams on

higher

THE ALTAI

IN

across

unmolested

ground.

But a

herds

of

had

pass

to

old

be

found for the pack-horses, and our Kalmuks either

knew or,

if

nothing" about

the

they had been

would

doubtful,

that

fearing"

in

in

country over the frontier,

Chinese

their horses

I,

uncertainty

this

we

tribes.

decided,

Happy

the intention of seeing for ourselves

be

and

Littledale

on the following morning", June

to start together

22nd, towards the head of the

could

matter,

the

in

would be stolen by stray

Kirghiz or Mongol nomadic In

which was

territory,

no way help us

discovered.

Before

Littledale branched off to the

if

with

Valley,

an easy pass

entering

the

nullah,

where

hills

seemed

left,

lower and the ground more suitable for our purpose, whilst

I

Tchagan

was

to

valley

pitable for

a distance.

reconnoitre the head of the

and see

the pass

if

unshod hoofs as But

my

well-known buttresses

I

a few hundred yards to our

for as

we approached a

to get

1

ram feeding

YYe quickly

left.

in

thought was

1

when

dis-

a small hollow,

above the animal

wind, as usual, was shifty, and within what

be from

spied

mounted, and leaving the horses

made a long detour

inhos-

as

to

exploring designs were soon to

be checked by sight of game, the

was

appeared

it

Bain-

I

;

but the

found myself

50 yards of

my

prey,


A FINE HERD become

the beast had already

was moving slowly away.

In

up."

fact,

"

Taba,

little I

we

"

will

To my amazement, frightened by the report of my their

in

proved

they

to

Never mind,"

early

my

direction.

us,

We

when

they

had

shot,

and were busily

breakfast.

Unfortunately

been

not

They

on our very way

happy hunting grounds, and cutting us coveted

rifle

be ewes and young ones.

were feeding towards

said

others further

find

view by the bed of the

into

stream.

engaged

to take a hurried

had hardly reloaded

more sheep walked

and

slightly suspicious

had

I

shot, resulting in a clean miss.

confident

125

to

the

from the

off

had no end of trouble

in

avoiding discovery, and had to go round a couple crawling

of miles,

We

them.

now and

then

managed, however,

to

in

sight

full

them, and resumed our journey

out

disturbing

the

valley

We

had not gone

under cover far

of

my

of

get round with-

favourite

up

boulders.

when Taba suddenly stopped

me, pointing towards the river-bed below

us.

There

lay a fine herd of fifteen sheep,

all

There was no possible approach

to within less than

rams

this time.

500 yards from the spot they had chosen siesta,

so

entirely

we crouched down and abandoned

my good

waited.

I

intentions of

for their

had now

making

myself useful by finding a favourable pass over the


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

126 frontier,

old

and devoted

sheep

weakness,

beneath but

all

my

us.

I

sight

the

attention to the mighty

must of

acknowledge quarry

the

was

this

too

WATCHING.

Should

tempting.

hundred

yards

animals

the

towards

us

I

a

shift

sure

felt

couple

of

of success,

and the heads some of them carried were well worth trying

for.

them when,

We to

had

my

not

joy,

been

they

all

an got

hour watching up one after




GREATLY DISAPPOINTED and crossed the stream

the other,

Taba had whole

For some time we

found

under

us.

within

ourselves

was

I

the

point

towards a small pinnacle, w ithin easy

when

noticed that they

I

A

had become suspicious. bably off,

reached

thought

as

I,

nearest one. to

and

them,

making back

lowered

full

gallop

fired

I

others

an instant they were Cruel luck,

my

-303

and

fired

shot, but the

at

the

chance had

As

they crossed the stream

several

more shots

into

the

—there being no question of —and saw one of them whilst two

steep

waited a

starting

of a sudden

picking-

fall,

remained behind the main bulk,

up the

the

range of

rifle

all

midst of the herd out the largest

we pre-

staggered for a moment, then con-

tinued with the others. at

till

whiff of wind had proin

was a long

He

be taken.

of

to the opposite side.

I

It

of

was

feeding on the slopes

on

just

yards

250

r

the herd,

then

;

behind every rock, and

hiding

whom we now saw

animals,

lay low,

below us

disappeared

herd

rushed down, sently

our direction.

in

foretold this, saying that the grazing

better on our side.

the

129

slopes

little,

and looking very

struggling sick.

We

marking the direction taken by the

two wounded ones, and started as soon as they had

gone over a I

came up

ridge.

to the

I

dead

was greatly disappointed when beast,

though

I

felt

I

had only


AFTER WILD SHEEP

130

got what

such

a

pumping

along

by

curve

the

grallocked him on the

spot,

I

On

be seen.

to

So

I

;

the third was

continued along a pre-

covered with rolling stones.

cipitous slope,

to

judge whether they belonged

or

to

animal

was

I

still

disgust, a hail-storm

came on

of the

I

but

chase,

Taba now came

me.

to

and as

I

There was

was trying

him, the brute saw I

200 yards

was

pursuit

;

be beaten.

my

beast lying

with his head

which seemed two long no hiding-place

to creep

me and

up nearer

started

off.

By

round

to finish this

time

soaked by the snow, which had by now-

fairly

turned into

off,

moment

to

crouched down and lay motionless

about twenty minutes,

hours us,

We

us.

To my

at that exciting

was not going

could

the dead one,

following.

and soon spotted

stones about

the

towards for

up,

to

I

was unable

see the blood-tracks here and there, but

on

a steep

found one of the beasts lying dead on

I

the

the

reaching

last, after

the opposite bank of a deep ravine

nowhere

in

Taba

followed

result.

where we had seen them

scramble,

in "

lead

girth.

17

whilst

other two with hopes of a better the ridge

the

measurements were

His

manner.

reckless

inches

35

"

deserved by

I

THE ALTAI

IN

sleet,

but

and thought of abandoning further

Taba was

as

keen as ever, and we

continued on the slippery rocks for some time straight


SNOW AND WIND uphill.

A

good hour brought

up

half-way

lying

us

head of

the

to

Here we found our wounded

the side- valley.

again

131

the

slope.

fellow

made

I

a

desperate scramble to get above him, and shot him

make

through the heart just as he was preparing to off.

The two

and 39 by

17

trophies,

light

Littledale

sheep,

but

ponies to

heads

carried average inches.

I

exhausted,

a

in

:

48^ by

1

j\

camp with my

returned to

regular

blizzard.

had come back, saying he had seen no had come across easy ground cross

into

He had

Mongolia.

for

the

gone out

again up the main valley, and presently returned with the

report that he had

wounded the

finest

ram he

had as yet seen, but that he had been unable follow the blood-tracks

owing

covered up with snow, which our tents.

As

for the wind,

to

their

now it

still

to

having been

lay thick

round

blew as strong


CHAPTER Last

on the

days

Camp The

Tchagan-Burgaza

Mongolia

into

Start— Map

—A

IV.

— Pass over the Frontier— Shift — Major Cumberland's Camp

Blizzard

numbers

Chinese— Great

unreliable- Meet

of

— Karaoul Suok — Chinese Governor — Passports — Officials — Interpreters — Joseph returns with fresh Stores-

Sheep Heads Chinese

Start for Bain-Khairkhan Hills.

On

the morning of June 23rd the weather had not

changed

camp over and

our favour.

in

had decided

Happy

the low pass north of the

everything

and

had

prepared

been

to

Valley,

the

for

shift

start.

no long march could be undertaken

Unfortunately that day,

We

it

was agreed

that

Though dark

better chance.

and the wind blew

we should

wait for a

clouds covered the sky

persistently, Littledale

went out

at

4 a.m. with hopes of coming across his wounded ram,

whose pursuit he had had day, and

whose tracks he had

snowfall.

As

while

attempt

to

for myself,

a

I

stalk,

Towards noon, the weather

my

abandon on the previous

to

wife and

I,

lost

owing

thought

and

it

to the

remained

clearing up,

heavy

hardly worth in

we went

bed. out,

with our smooth-bores after Willow 132


A HERD OF RAMS

We

Grouse around the camp.

133

found some

the

in

These

neighbourhood, and brought back a brace.

grouse were not shy, and kept running before us even after

the shot.

Littledale

the head of a fair ram, which he of a herd of ten, probably the

had secured out

same herd he had spied

He

before on the slopes of the main valley. to

failed

find

at

sidering the gale that never ceased blowing

I

con-

all,

day.

all

the following day, the weather not being settled

enough keen

had

any sign of the wounded one, and

was astonished that he got anything

On

with

returned at 6 p.m.

for

shifting

to see the wild

my

camp, and sheep

wife being very

in their haunts,

we

started

together as early as possible in the direction of the

Happy hunter.

Valley,

taking

Littledale

with

us

Taba and another

had kindly conceded

to

me

the

monopoly of Taba, who was undoubtedly the best

man we

had, contenting himself with

he considered

next

ground well known

best.

to me,

We

Lepet,

crossed

the

whom same

and as we were following

up the bed of the stream a herd of rams, about sixteen in

number, came into view.

They had

a mile ahead of us in a place which possibly approach.

The

lain

clown

we could

not

buttresses at the entrance of

the nullah were too distant, and further advance was impracticable, for the animals had

full

command

of the


i

AFTER WILD SHEEP

34

We

lower ground.

make

to

IN

THE ALTAI

therefore turned back in order

a detour round a boulder to our

and,

left,

keeping under cover, followed up a ridge, which joined

This

eventually with the right slopes of the valley.

took about an hour and a half

strategical operation to perform, there

being deep stony gullies on the way,

which presented a series of obstacles to our wretched horses.

Finally

we got on

grass again, and having

dismounted, managed to reach some rocks, from which

we

could plainly see the herd, about 500 yards

lying on the river-bed.

I

we now found ourselves was

spot where

repeating that

in

commenced

possible, so

we

settled

down

further

at 8 a.m.,

watching our quarry with the telescope, which firmly fixed to

between two ledges of rock

have a good view of the sheep.

interested

their

in

were three

statement that this

I

for

I

had

my

wife

She was highly

proceedings, and said that there

first-class

average-sized

move

feeding,

No

grazing on our side being better.

advance was

as usual

sheep were sure to

the

our direction as soon as they

the

be our

to

Taba

observatory for the next eight hours. kept

off,

never imagined that the

old

heads and

rams amongst them, ten three

readily confirmed.

young It

was the herd out of which

three on the 22nd, and which

ones,

which

was quite probable I

had secured

we now found almost




GALLOPED OFF exactly in the

they

that

same place

would

137

moreover,

;

choose,

it

according

was as

likely

previous

to

experience, the slopes beneath us for their evening-

meal,

We

which

fact

would greatly

facilitate

our work.

therefore eagerly waited for the animals to get

up and afford us amusement. otherwise.

out the one

At

10

a.m.,

just

But as

fate

had decided

we were

picking-

which we thought would constitute a

worthy trophy, up they

all

jumped, scared without any

apparent cause, and galloped off towards the opposite slopes.

For some time we could not make out what


! !

AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

38

i

had frightened them

down

the

two

with If I

valley,

ponies

in this

manner, when, on looking

was one of

there

ascending

the

in

hill

he had been nearer at that moment

view

full

really think

I

should have wilfully mistaken him for a kotcJikor

Taba

He

showed signs

also

of fury in his peculiar way.

who

explained to us that this was the hunter

had been sent from camp

meat of the

to bring the

sheep killed by Littledale on the previous withstanding

all

before evening, he had been reckless

this

way had

so

;

means

to start

Nothing,

we kept watching

We

the afternoon.

in

up the

hill

and

settle

however,

the herd,

say nothing of three

their

lay

persevered

could

in

again

meant

certain

To

our

stalk

failure,

to

or four hours' hard climbing.

in

our

crouching

suffering acutely from

be

come down

all

to be baffled

Nothing would induce the sheep

quarters

this

and decided

the slopes.

Unfortunately our expectations were that day.

in

saw them stop half-way

down on

them where they now

And

our chance.

wait in hope of seeing the animals

again

and

Great was our consternation

!

and disappointment.

done

to take

tired of waiting,

spoilt

was one of our hunters

Not-

clay.

him

the exhortations given

the greatest precautions, and by no

to

Kalmuks

our

direction,

position

to shift

though till

"pins and needles."

4

we

p.m.,

Finally


UNWILLING KALMUKS we gave to

thoroughly disgusted, and returned

up,

it

camp under

139

the scornful looks of the rams, which

we

did not even honour us by getting up as

At in

we were under canvas

6 p.m.

a roast

had

Littledale

was decided

it

also

following day across the

first

a

of

stay

hunting grounds

plateaux

search

in

fortune.

take place as early as possible, 9

a.m.

that

the

ponies

On finally

June

the

25th,

quitted

our

unknown Mongolian

the

for

of

we

pretext

camp on

shift

frontier.

days,

eight

many

been unsuccessful,

we should under no

that

whatever "linger any longer," but

after

again, indulging

of sheep which had caused us

fillet

a bitter hour.

and

departed.

were

The but

start

it

loaded,

was

to

was not a

till

desperate

chase after several stray ones having lasted not less than

Our Kalmuks being extremely

three hours.

unwilling to

visit

foreign countries, lazy in ordinary

times, accentuated as

much

as they could this defect

of theirs.

Poor Yakoub, the demitcha, was at a

to enforce

his

occurred

in

orders,

which the whip played a great

formed anything

part,

it

to the energetic demonstrations

was principally owing of Nicholas, Cristo,

loss

and, though several incidents

and Gabriel that we eventually

like

a caravan.

the main river, and, crossing

it,

We

started

down

began following up

one of the small tributaries of the

Bain-Tchagan


i

AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

4o

stream with

in

the

a south-easterly direction. ladies,

whilst

I

rode

in front

behind

stayed

Littledale

in

order to see that the pack-ponies were not led back

Kosh-Agatch

to

the

hills

south to

and

seemed

of

home, as

As we advanced

eagerly desired.

to

become

where

us,

in

lower,

Happy

the

Kalmuks

our

so

slow procession, excepting due Valley,

parallel

which we were now going, was concealed from

view

by the towering ridges and peaks on of

side

Around

it.

boulders,

with

many

;

for,

though we saw none,

and horns strewed the ground on our

skulls

The

rolling

small ordinary ravines, probably the

winter resorts of sheep

way.

were low, grassy,

us

either

were covered with lovely

slopes

spring-

flowers, such as crocuses, buttercups,

and Edelweiss.

Towards

in

which

1 1

we were caught

a.m.

an

lasted

hour,

As we were

rain.

with

halted

the

entirely ignorant

ladies

had evidently camped, and the up,

rest of

in

at

a

place

of

;

into

our way,

I

where someone

to us that

Taba

presently galloped

he had spent a fortnight

the year before on this very spot with Major

land

hailstorm

order to wait for Littledale

our caravan.

and explained

a

and eventually turned

Cumber-

he also gave us the good news that the pack-

ponies were following up at a short distance.

noon we were

in

sight of

Towards

the dividing pass at the


TREACHEROUS SOIL head

of

A

marching.

from

small

the

long slanting slope

Chinese

still

blowing

separated us

Here we were met by a our

in

and

faces

sweeping

furiously along the dreary plateau before

but

we

the

snow

feet

;

could

now

great

height,

dim background

the

in

The

us.

the

Mongolian

stood at an altitude of about 9,000 us lay a marshy tableland, which

to cross in order to reach a valley running

eastward, shelter

no

mountain peaks of

front of

in

we had

were of

distinguish

clad

-

We

Altai.

foreground

the

in

hills

to

Another hour

be easily negotiable for the horses.

gale

were

and the pass appeared

territory,

brought us to the top. strong

we

which

along

valley

141

whose

under

we hoped

slopes

to

find

from the tiresome cold wind, as well as a

suitable

place

pitching

for

this

plateau

proved

the

horses,

for

it

camp.

by no means of

consisted

Unfortunately light

work

patches

soaked

of

for

grass

through

either

by freshly melted snow or by springs, thus

afford-

intermingled

with

shingle,

ing no resistance to our horses'

deep say

at

moment

firm

and

however, and

the

swamps.

it

As

feet,

who sank

into the treacherous

because to

treacherous

perfectly it,

every

all

appearance

knee-

soil. it

I

was

There was no avoiding

safe.

took us a long time to get over for

the

pack -ponies

behind,

I


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

142

cannot

heavy loads

and we

with

up

for

my

The

it.

with

herds

of

first

satisfactory

hope that the discovery

sheep would amply make

who had been

ladies,

their

This

difficulty.

China was hardly a

entitled to

felt

of undisturbed

managed

they

overcome the

to

acquaintance one,

how

conceive

placed under

were persistently confident of success, and

care,

greatly contributed to uphold the level of cheerful-

ness through the hardships of this

unknown over

finding a

in

reached

stream

the

-

Burgassy,

spot

into

useful more-

camp

for

as

we

which flowed a small

through

valley,

known on my

Boro

the

favourable

march

first

They proved most

country.

whilst

on

stood

I

map

Russian

forty-verst

a

as

ridge

watching our caravan struggling through the marsh,

and signalling

know

own

Littledale

the direction which

the

that

principal this

to

guide,

order

in

was

to

to

him

let

be taken.

I

must

map, which had hitherto been our

now seemed

hardly

and

reliable,

became more and more evident as we advanced

into Mongolia.

The

stream on the banks of which

we camped was known tirely

River,

different

one

of

name. the

to the natives It

flowed

tributaries

whose watershed we now found pass unnoticed the

way

in

of

under an en-

into

the

ourselves.

the

Suok

Kobdo, I

in

cannot

which Mongols christen


RIVER NOMENCLATURE their

according

the

to

These

water).

The

river.

of

two

water.

their

Ak-soti

or

classes If

spot chosen for our

is

it

(black water)

Tchagan-sou include

rubrics

two

into

Kara- sou

called

is

milky,

or

dirty

divided

are

colour

the stream

clear, if

These

rivers.

143

every

nearly

camp was

;

(white

quite a

comfortable one, close to the stream, and sheltered

by the of

bank from the

altitude

were

us

(about

8,800

low rolling

snowy summits glistened

Happy

locate the

a few miles

off,

Patches

bitterly cold wind.

snow here and there reminded us

high of

left

of

the fairly

East and north

feet).

boulders,

towering"

whilst

in the distance.

We

could

Valley by a long ridge of crags

now due westwards.

This rocky

spine extended eastwards for several miles, sinking

gradually

Suok

lower into grassy

hillocks

down

River, into which flowed the stream on

to

the

whose

banks we were now camped.

The

night was a very frosty one, and

came

to

in

(June 26th) at 3 a.m. out of

my

when

Cristo

wake me up on the following morning

blankets.

I

found

it

very trying to get

During the night a pack of

wolves had attacked some of our ponies and scared

them a

to such

difficult

an extent that our Kalmuks found

job to secure them.

Some

it

of the horses

had unhobbled themselves, and travelled great

dis-


144

AFTER WILD SHEEP

tances

towards our

last

about

a.m.,

start

to

until

5

THE ALTAI

IN

This delayed our

camp.

when we

lotted

me

to

Happy

the

due south,

lay

Valley,

managed

finally

muster the steeds we required.

The ground

al-

Littledale

got

whilst

which he would

now have

enter from the Chinese side, over the pass

The weather seemed

failed to reconnoitre previously.

to

have cleared up again, and

spirits

"fresh

that

I

fields

time before

was

it

camp with Taba

left

to

we had

in

in

the best of

order to

We

and pastures new."

visit

rode some

About

reaching likely sheep ground.

an hour brought us to a small lake surrounded by higher crests of

hills

;

on

its

shores

them were of great

of sheep horns, though none of

On

size.

the slopes of

we found where

me

my

that

it

were now exploring entirely new ground,

guide Taba had never been, but was,

this

according

winter resort of sheep, for

from the

bitter

rolling stones

attained a

north

and

it

wind.

now awaited

ridge

to

all

struck

it

probabilities,

a

was low and sheltered

A

stiff

climb

the ponies, and

we

over finally

from which we were able to spy

the opposite slopes of

eastwards,

red shingle round

transverse paths and numerous tracks of

We

game.

loose

lay quantities

a long deep nullah running-

affording-

splendid

grazing,

conse-

quently a most likely spot for the sheep's morning


'HOM

«



"

A CURIOUS ASPECT

My

meal.

147

soon confirmed our suppositions.

glass

Seven sheep were feeding quietly on the other the valley "

my

Taba, who was using

;

telescope, said,

"Young

Kitchinek kotckkor" which meant

side of

rams,"

a highly disappointing statement, which was nevertheless correct.

animals,

old

noticed.

It

was a herd

some ewes,

together with

We

immediately

two and three year

of

left

as possible,

Taba and

first

un-

the ponies in charge

"the understudy" and started

of

at

off

as cautiously

myself, towards the next ridge

order to get a good view of the far side of the

in

Unfortunately there was no hiding, and the

valley.

rams presently caught sight of

some

lateral

not

When we

ravine.

the opposite crest

expect to

an hour anything

see

just crossed, but

off,

jumped up from

found ourselves on

we

later in

and darted

us,

followed by a troop of ewes, which

of course

the valley

did

we had

began spying the grounds beyond.

The sun was now

high and exceedingly hot.

The

country before us presented a curious aspect of low volcanic-shaped hillocks I

could

flowing side,

distinguish

through

due south of

us,

the soil was arid and red.

Suok River

a wide

my map showed me hills.

;

steppe,

in

the

distance,

and on the other

stood a higher range, which to

be

the

"

Several fine-lookine corries

Bain-Khairkhan in

that

direction


i

AFTER WILD SHEEP

48

seemed

happy

promise

to

THE ALTAI

IN

hunting

and

grounds,

snow here and there gave me the im-

patches of

pression of the right altitude for sheep at that time of

Eastwards

year.

ran

Mongolian Altai with snow.

thought

I

its

lofty

down and pointed

some 800 yards below.

way up

from

pastures

above.

and seemed try

of

and cut them

of

rams

They were making

their

they

very

off

down

out

a

couple

towards the

were advancing slowly, fair horns,

we decided

we

fast as

reached

would

saddle,

a

certainly should

pace

at

under cover of

which

Had

we expected

have been unable

the next five minutes.

We

and, seeing no sign of the sheep,

corrie.

so

;

ridge

commanding

Though we

carefully as

we

we as

ridge,

this

till

we

animals

the

moment

they done so at that

me

I

for the

to shoot,

which we had gone rendered

over the

A

both sides

lay,

could lay our feet to the ground,

cross.

to

from the higher ground.

down from where we

the slope,

to visit

when Taba suddenly

which were covered with loose shingle

ran

for

As

to carry

steep ridge ran

peaks of everlasting

rocky ground

dry

the

the

of

ridge

was hardly worth while

it

the lower boulders beneath us,

squatted

main

the

breathless

waited some time,

moved

a view

of

spied every ledge

cautiously

the of

could there was not a beast

whole

rock

as

in sight.


TABA AT A LOSS The wind had been and Taba was

Many

tracks

>4<>

favourable during our manoeuvres,

at a loss to find a clue to the

and droppings showed us

mystery.

that the place

was by no means uninhabited by sheep, though the dryness of the

soil

seemed

to render

it

unattractive

"WE RAN DOWN THE

SLOPE.


i

AFTER WILD SHEEP

5o

to

A

them.

THE ALTAI

IN

now awaited

long climb back

us.

It

took us about an hour under a tropical sun to cover the distance which had taken us ten minutes downhill. I

know nothing more

disappointing" than a climb back

an unsuccessful

after

sportsman

Taba gave me, poor

little

came

share

will

the

as usual, a bit of his

experienced.

I

mind

in

English

he was the keenest hunter

fellow,

I

;

ever

reached the spot from which we had sighted

the two vanished rams, inspect the other corries

and on halting

in

order to

spied a herd of six sheep

I

"Taba,

the distance, about a mile lower down.

Kotchka^ answer

;

said

heard

"

I.

lok"

that

in the

natives use

Now

djeran

it

"No," was the

Caucasus and

it

a term

is

in Asia.

to express either

to the

have often

I

In the former the

Chamois or Antelope

;

Kalmuks and Kirghiz

the eastern Russian steppes

apply

is,

"djeran" as he carefully replaced the telescope

on the grass.

in

daresay that every

I

feelings

across.

We

in

and

stalk,

Saiga antelope, the same for Russian

Turkestan, where both the Saiga and the Antilope

guthwosa are that

we were

to in

be found.

I

therefore

concluded

the presence of antelope, but being

too far off was unable to identify the animals. on, during our return journey,

we came

Later

across large

herds of Antilope guttiirosa on the Kosh-Agatch plain,


THE SAIGA and secured several.

know

if

151

was very anxious

Littledale

and being keen

as Mongolia,

on our return to camp

;

Saiga,

drawing

we

their

swelling on the beast's nose.

Saiga exists animals

the subject

did our best to attention

the

to

hardly think that the

I

and

Mongolia,

in

it

but no useful information was

be got from them, although

describe the

made

to shoot one,

Kalmuks on

a point to cross-examine our

to

to

the habitat of the Saiga extended as far east

suppose

we saw must have been Antilope

the

that

gutturosa.

Seeing that there was no sport to be obtained on the low ground,

try the hills to the

Happy

Valley,

So we struck a

numerous

ridge,

and

in

a stony plateau

commanding

of about

every

two

attracted

or

my

three

miles

attention

stiff

ravines.

in

owing

diameter, to

patches of bright green fresh grass it

—a

likely place for sheep.

to spy,

work.

I

feet

on

over a large of grim-

walls

and broad

side,

snow running down the steep hills,

11,000

a view

rocky country, with

looking crags on

at

a couple of hours found

elevation

of

corries outside

where Littledale was

ourselves at an

stretch

we might

that

westward, and spend the remainder

of the day in inspecting the the

Taba

suggested to

I

the

slides

A

of

basin of especially

occasional

scattered

over

accordingly sat

down

and soon discovered a herd of rams feeding


1

AFTER

52

WILT)

SHEEP IN THE ALTAI Taba nor

Neither

slowly up the opposite slopes.

I

could distinguish the size of their horns, nor estimate that

at

decided,

distance

the

feasibility

neither

delay,

Taba

a good pace

at

led

the rocks and loose shingle, and though

way over

we went

us

of

anything- about the ground, and trusting in

Providence to get safely back to camp. the

We

stalk.

however, unanimously to try our fortune,

and started downhill without

knowing

a

of

we took over an hour

to

reach the bottom of the valley.

My off

companion's primitive leather mocassins scored

my

after

best nailed shooting boots on these stones, and

many

a

fall

I

me

from one rock

in

the bed of a

Taba's movements and wonderful

dried-up stream. agility struck

found myself

finally

here for the to

first

time

;

he would jump

another, alight on a sharp edge,

stand motionless for some time where a Chamois would hesitate,

The

performing marvellous feats of equilibrium. gravitation

force of

on him, and

I

found

it

seemed

to

have no

effect

a difficult job to follow

him

over the steep, broken ground.

Another

half- hour

brought

400 yards of the sheep, and great

when

I

to

a ridge within

disappointment was

saw before me eight rams,

five years old, but not

"Kitchinek"

us

my

(" small

all

one of them worth a "),

whispered Taba.

four or shot. "

Yes,"


START FOR THE HAPPY VALLEY thought

We

I,

"and we

way from our

are a long

dinner."

watched the animals feed over a boulder, and

Here again Taba

started in the direction of camp.

showed himself equal

to his task,

of the tents just as

sight

a hard three hours'

had

153

failed

to

that

we

and we were within

was getting dark,

after

was back.

He

Littledale

pull.

approach two

shifty wind, so rifles

it

fine

old

rams owing

At dinner we held

out of their covers.

council

with the ladies, and decided to send one of our to the nearest

secure,

if

Chinese

to

had neither of us taken our

post, or "

karaoul"

men

in order to

possible, a guide acquainted with the country

beyond, none of our Kalmuks having ever crossed the

Moreover, the day's

Siberian frontier.

shown

that our

result

grounds were not promising

having

for sport,

and as we had both sighted a fine-looking range of hills to

map

the south, which

with the

seemed

to correspond

on our

Bain-Khairkhan range, we thought

advisable to shift

camp

it

as soon as possible, or rather

as soon as the Chinese officials

supply us with the guide

would condescend

we had

sent

to

But we

for.

could not expect him within two or three days, a delay

which had to be endured, and which we spent

in

revisiting our old grounds.

On early,

the following morning, at

3.30

a.m.,

towards

June the

27th,

I

Happy

started

Valley,


AFTER WILD SHEEP

i.S4

Littledale taking the country

day.

THE ALTAI

IN I

had

tried the previous

During the night

was a lovely morning".

It

there had been a hard frost, and

found the water frozen

our

in

when

woke up

I

I

Unfortunately

tent.

the stove was of no avail, owing to the scarcity, or rather

of dried,

of

the quality,

to

the

fuel,

horse or camel-dung, native

of which would have rendered our inhabitable. Vassili,

may mention

that

despair for the

same

I

was

in

which consisted tezek, the

smoke

home

entirely un-

the

poor cook,

reason, our roast

kotchkor usually bearing a strong smell of tezek smoke. It

took us a long time to reach the entrance to the

valley,

land

our ponies stumbling over the marshy table-

we had

among

to

to

with

out

me

for

on either

some

side,

useless.

and discover game I

left

my

We

"second-

time,

followed the bed of the

examining carefully the slopes

and stopping now and then

ravines, at the

rams enjoy

planet,

charge of the ponies, and started up

in

the nullah with Taba.

lateral

Taba had

to eye-soreness, yet could see

any man on our

man"

ourselves

Littledale having

for the day,

where telescopes seemed

stream

found

him a hunter named Lepet, who,

though he was subject as well as

horse

only

the well-known buttresses at 6.30.

been conceded taken

and

cross,

to

spy the

bottom of which the wily old

their siesta,

but there were

no signs of


A HOPELESS ERRAND sheep

At

we had gone almost half-way up

till

this stage, just as

we had passed

a lot of about fifteen rams

yards ahead of

came

our

in

that

might

fate

Naturally

crawled

it

down,

lay

did

along

alter

the

stones

being; discovered.

waited

direction

nothing of

the

wind kept

the

and there was no

backs,

and

some 500

into sight

means of making a dttour without both

the valley.

a sharp turning,

Unfortunately

us.

blowing steadily

So we

155

the

we saw

sort,

hope

the

in

of

wind.

the

and

as

we

whole herd

the

get up, cross the stream, and trot up the opposite slope, I

till

they

all

disappeared over the

watched them the whole way with

ridge.

last

my

glass,

and

found that two or three of them would have been

most

how

satisfactory trophies.

and there was no time that day

which would have taken us

five

So we continued on our

make.

quite prepared to see in

were now

front

of

a loss

at

kept blowing up the

proceed, for the wind

to

valley,

We

or

for a circuit,

hours

six

hopeless

any sheep that might

us speed mercilessly away,

to

errand, still

be

when Taba

suddenly stopped me, pointing towards a small grassy boulder,

some 800 yards ahead

of

us.

It

stood at

the very junction of the two streams forming the main river,

which divided up two narrow rocky

gullies.

crouched down, and soon found that we were

I

in the


r

AFTER WILD SHEEP

56

presence of another not

tell

;

so

it

for

fifteen

my

was probably

beckoned

I

bed of the fairly

of

rams,

but could

whether they carried good heads or

any case

day

lot

THE ALTAI

IN

river,

Taba

to

I

at

not.

In

for

the

me down

to follow

whose banks

steep, and, as

chance

last

another few hundred yards.

keeping as close as possible

we were

we had

the sheep,

in

this

I

had

manner by bank of the

to the right

obliged, in order to keep

under cover, to wade knee-deep others

we

In five minutes

expected that we might advance

In places

were

thought, might afford hiding

were out of sight of the herd, and found as

stream.

to the

place

this

in icy-cold

water

;

in

to crawl over the stones in full sight of

but happily only for a few seconds,

The wind was

another slope hid us from view.

wrong, nevertheless

till

still

hoped that we might get within

I

shot before the rams suspected anything, as they were

some way above

We

us.

soon found ourselves within

400 yards of them, but here ended the protective slopes,

and

we

could

being discovered.

I

advance no further without

took out

my

" Zeiss

"

to

examine

the herd from behind the last corner, and found that several of the

beasts were quite shootable,

none of them carried

quietly grazing towards us, solution of the

heads.

first-class

and

dilemma than

I

though

They were

could see no other

to wait

on the chance


A TREACHEROUS WHIFF of their to

1

coming within

aba as best

my

look from "

shot.

could, but

I

explained

I

my

was met with a

design

sceptical

companion, and the laconic answer,

yaman" which meant "Wind bad." thinking that the little man was perhaps

Salkhyn

just

and that we might be scented I

157

saw him make up carrying off

view,

his

my

at

was

right,

any moment, when

mind and creep on

precious

I

rifle.

I

in

full

could

but

so.

We

follow him.

went

All

right

for

a hundred yards or

crouched motionless every two or three steps, watching the sheep with one eye, and with the other picking

At

out the next large stone for a halting-place. a treacherous whiff brought

danger, and suddenly lifting their heads they

gazing intently

in

last

them the forebodings of

No

our direction.

all

began

time was to be

Putting up the 200-yards sight, and taking a

lost.

hurried aim at the one which to

my

staoorer for a second. 00

A

ram,

I

fired,

and

I

took to be the oldest

greatest surprise

moment

appeared with the others over

They gave me, however, poor one,

I

must own

after

the

he had

nearest

a second chance

—and

saw him dis-

ridge.

— though

a

the result was a broken

hind leg for one of the smaller rams.

Taba now wanted but

I

thought

it

to follow

them up immediately,

wiser to wait, and not frighten the


AFTER WILD SHEEP

158

one

considered

I

had wounded,

I

would separate from

down

lay

in

some neighbouring So

and forcing him

coat,

who kept "

my

explain

to

tried

Not wounded."

I

to

Baalou

ravine,

where we

my

hunter by

caught sit

intentions "

repeating

which case he

in

companions, and probably-

his

might stalk him again. his

THE ALTAI

IN

clown by the

to

iok

Evidently his

my

side,

man,

little

"-— which meant was

idea

to

get

another shot at the animals by making a dash to the ridge over which they had

brought

me

entirely

unfit

the

to

place

take aim.

to

my

noticed the result of while,

as

sat

I

low, the

a mile in front of

and

shingle,

I

us,

who was

the others.

My

;

and

In

shot.

came

panting,

he had

Moreover,

herd

would have

this

breathless

first

in

not

the meansight about

making up a steep slope of

found that

its

number had now

Behind came

creased to over thirty. youngster,

gone

my

in-

three-legged

struggling hard to keep up with

rifle

had awakened the rumbling

echoes of the valley, and several

lots

of ewes were

galloping furiously up different slopes.

When was

they had

all

re-established,

disappeared from view, and calm

we

started slowly

up the grassy

bank towards the place where our sheep had been feeding,

and

whatever.

to

My

my

dismay found no blood

-

tracks

companion's triumphant look seemed


THE WOUNDED RAM "Baalou iok" though

to repeat

quite

humbled

at

must acknowledge

I

that he did his best to prove he

159

was wrong.

moment, and was the

that

felt

I

first

to

give up the search for invisible blood-tracks.

we made

Calling him away, sat

down

I

believe

Of

lunch.

to

upon the mess

stream and

for a small

course our thoughts turned

had made of the whole business, and

I

we hardly

uttered a word,

when Taba, who

was perpetually on the qui vive and constantly looking round about him, pointed up a narrow gulley which led

down

where we

to the place

distinguish stones piled

sat.

could only

I

up one over the

presently spotted one which

the others, about 300 yards

other,

seemed more yellow than

Up

off.

went

my

" Zeiss,"

followed by an exclamation, " Kotckkor /"

had turned, and on

my

side.

half-hour

in

this

had been quietly

full

view of

him

!

The

tide

time the triumphant looks were

We

within shot of

and

sitting for the last

my wounded

The

ram, nearly

brute was lying on the

stones with his head towards us, evidently very sick. I

loaded

my

rifle

and was

of the torrent, hiding

was not dead

yet,

off in a

where

and as

slowly and started away.

I

But the animal

I

was about

I

ran on as fast as

could carry me, just in time

round a boulder.

second up the bed

could.

Naturally

to

my

see

to

fire,

got up

my

legs

him disappear

two shots were of no


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

i6o

avail in the heat of the chase

and breathless as

Again

rolling- stones.

followed on over the

I

was.

I

Luckily

the banks were steep on either side, and the beast

could only go along the bed of the stream.

headlong pursuit lasted about an hour, and till

was not

I

saw my

reached the very top of the gully that

I

ram slacken

his pace

and

Heavy

down.

lie

blood had greatly weakened him, and

This

it

I

loss of

can hardly

which of the two was the most exhausted when I

finished

him

His horns taped

at close quarters.

well, the following

being the measurements

along curve, 46

girth at base, i8f

My

first

in.

;

shot had smashed

produced by small-bore bullets

and has caused

me

Taba proceeded

to lose

my

had

before now. 1

left

went back a long

way

He

of Takhua,

fast

in

the

asleep and

brought them back, however,

an hour's search, and we started towards the

dead sheep.

we loaded

badly

a great disadvantage,

many an animal

whom we

name

the horses gone.

so

2 5 in.

and entered

second hunter, who rejoiced

pleasant-sounding

after

Length

the nullah.

found

I

is

to grallock him, whilst

fetch the ponies,

to

thigh

his

:

spread,

;

fairly

Absence of blood from such wounds

the stomach.

down

in.

tell

at last

wanted

Taba had

already cut up the animal,

the ponies with the meat, which was for

the

kitchen,

sending

Takhua


THE COLD INTENSE straight for

camp

to

tents at 6 p.m. without

but

up a small

started

river

Littledale, as

expected, had found nothing

young rams and arkhar,

washing

busy

morning.

ewes.

i.e.

drying

them

we had brought

halfpenny novels

June

the journey.

in

There had been a hard

had

gathered

the

numerous

off-day

from

tired to

to

the

remain

eastward

previous bed,

in

not

did

from

stores

Littledale

the

when

exertions,

come from

off

the

at

More-

sport.

to

fetch I

writing

in

an

decided

I

thought

I

Cristo

new ground

the

as

Joseph

afternoon

had started

had

send

Kosh-Aoatch, and

spend

usefully

day's

promise to yield to

me.

Feeling very

6 a.m.

at

especially

we intended

over,

news

wake me up

us for for

during the night, and

frost

a bitterly cold north wind was blowing in

whole

out with

was an

28th

had

ladies

the

linen

they

afternoon

the

In

and

flowers round camp, pressing

came

the

having seen any more game I

Taking advantage of the weather, the been

in

home, and crossing a pass reached the

direction of

that day.

As

our well-earned quarry.

with

we

ourselves,

161

early

Chinese

more might letters.

hour.

post,

and

No we

eagerly expected our messenger with the guide he

was

was

bring

to

intense.

M

back

with

him.

Our Kalmuks were

All

day the cold

constantly ordered


AFTER WILD SHEEP

i6 2

THE ALTAI

IN

about by the demitcha to gather in at

our only

tezek,

Ongudai

;

damp, owing

unfortunately

precious

the

a heavy snowstorm

to

from

tained

came

that

was

mutton

Roast

it.

question that day, and

we had

came

in

with a

The

his

out

the

of

ourselves

Towards evening

head, saying he had

fair

wounded another and a much been unable to follow up

on,

to be ob-

to content

with tinned tongue and sardines. Littledale

was

stuff

and there was more smoke than warmth

my

fuel,

the large leather bags that had been lent to us

ram,

finer

tracks

following day brought no change

the

in

had

but

storm.

the weather

in

;

barometer kept low, and a regular gale blew from Nevertheless

the west.

ing to

I

went out

camp drenched and

half

at 8 a.m., return-

frozen

afternoon, having seen but three ewes

Joseph had started

of marmots.

for

late

the

in

and a couple

Kosh-Agatch

with four ponies, letters and instructions to catch us

up either

Karaoul Suok, or

at the

at the foot of the

Bain-Khairkhan range, which we next intended try

for

candles

Ovis Amnion. to

warm

themselves,

during the whole day. to discover his in in

a ÂŤ>

The

ladies,

never

Littledale

wounded

having left

lit

their

to

their

tents

somehow managed

animal's

trail,

and brought

most satisfactory head, measuring 18^ inches irth.

There

beine

still

no

news

from

the


A LAST CHANCE we

karaoul,

coming

decided

all

our

to

wards and interview the Chinese using

my

one

more day's

the event of

in

no one

continue our march

to

relief,

have

to

and,

that place,

outing" at

163

Russian survey

map

as

official

east-

ourselves,

our only guide.

A DAYS REST.

I

went out accordingly

at

daybreak next morning,

taking with

me Taba and one

The

had

night

was quite old

settled

ground a

my way

been

last

very

again.

of the other hunters.

cold I

deciding

and the weather

intended chance,

to

and

give to

our

make

as far as possible in a south-western direc-


AFTER WILD SHEEP

i6 4

so as to get

tion,

of

tract

that the sheep,

the main

Valley.

neither

and

us had yet explored,

of

Happy

country which

behind the

well

There was a large

THE ALTAI

IN

was quite probable

it

frightened by our frequent visits to

might have shifted

nullah,

their quarters

over the ridge southwards, where a great number

would afford the old

ravines

of

We

they badly required.

rams the shelter

therefore crossed without

dismounting, or even spying the two broad

which

had

I

come

only

and

hours that path,

across

I

had

I

young rams and ewes (arkkar),

was not before we had ridden

it

valleys

on the 26th, and where

visited

good

for three

considered myself on the regular war-

and began

We

advance cautiously.

to

now

found ourselves on a small tableland, at an altitude of

the

about 9,000

Happy

melting

fast

under

the gravelly

verted

ponies, incapable of

I

sun's

soil

into

much

southern

ridge

powerful

of

muddy swamps

the

to

to spy.

patches

of

trickling

along the bottom

grass

;

our to

my Kalmuk

care of

went on with Taba, and presently

fine

con-

rays,

exertion, soon refused

Numerous stony

A

the

the

Leaving them

work. gillie,

under

feet,

Valley, and the long stretches of snow,

sat

down

corries lay before us, with

below, into

and the

small

Suok

herd of sheep soon came into sight

;

streams Valley.

they were


UNSUCCESSFUL TRIALS

165

mostly ewes, feeding on the slopes of a deep ravine

some 800 yards

below

amongst them seemed

These had evidently slumbering

the

in

At

watch.

first

I

Two

us.

or

fair trophies.

and were

their meal,

finished

open whilst

rams

three

promise very

to

spouses

their

kept

decided that they must be young

rams, the larger ones generally keeping apart from

arkhar

time

that

at

of

Yan

kotchkor

(big

mistaken

vented

the

un-

we advanced on

making a

and,

them from another side

were stopped by the straight

down

to

the

in

round

way was

I

in

to

finally

lay

might come towards us

crawled

all-

here

but of

of

the meantime,

a most trials

again

grass

Some

back

tried

dttoiir,

our approach.

After several unsuccessful other directions,

;

herd.

siderably interfered with

veered

long

stretch

fiat

had fed up towards us

the wind

We

concealment.

further

accordingly,

only

my

statement

Taba was seldom

soon broke into an abrupt descent, and pre-

fours,

stalk

about

they were

Unhappily,

!

which

over

was

I

said

which Little

judgment

his

in

slopes,

shikari

rams),

telescope soon confirmed.

dulating

and

year,

my

abandoning them, when

to

we

leading-

the

ewes

and conMoreover,

dangerous way.

to get

nearer from

convinced myself that the

low and wait, later

on

in

in

case

they

the day or feed


1

AFTER WILD SHEEP

66

As

into easier ground.

they showed

closely,

thought

at

the

after

slowly

other,

better

was

I

when towards

mentally,

THE ALTAI

examined the rams more

I

far

and

first,

IN

heads than busy

1.30 they lazily got

They

was a good omen.

now and

stage

this

positions,

as

up one

ever on the that

At

alert.

we should

our

shift

sheep were heading to our

the

So we crawled back

and,

This

uphill.

kept advancing steadily,

again,

Taba suggested

them

themselves,

stretching

shaking their bodies, started feeding

looking up

had

I

taping

left.

silently out of view,

and striking

across a slope of loose shingle squatted

down some

a small depression, where

two hundred yards lower,

in

a grassy plot in front of

me

for

my

rifle.

and waited.

Here we both Presently

presented a capital rest lay

flat

on our stomachs

rams came up within

the

range, and carefully drawing a bead on I

let go.

The thud

so well

known

ear answered instantaneously

;

largest

to the sportsman's

the animal staggered

moment, but picking himself up

for a

the

trotted away.

The

other two rams, strange to say, abandoning the

rest

of

the

straight 1

fired

misses.

herd

which

up towards us

two shots

pelted

— and

away

here

in

downhill,

my

excitement

at sixty yards, resulting in

There was no time

ran

two clean

for reloading again, for

they soon popped over a ridge and disappeared.

I


A BROADSIDE SHOT was very sick having

of

followed

performance, but as

at this

the

hit

ram,

first

by Taba,

the

in

direction

We

soon found blood.

The

along the slope,

but as

a

col dividing

small

he had

taken.

we reached

some

two

the

we

corries

foot

could

no more red -stained blades of grass to direct

find

Now

us.

was the dilemma

scramble over the ridge,

gone down

;

considerable

who was but

still

sight of

my

miles

delight

least

off.

I

fire,

succeeded

he

con-

I

four hours of

I

chose the ridge,

when from

my ram

yards before he noticed

about to

at

lying on

Creeping down

alive.

him

?

the

got

in

my

stealthily

approach, and as

in

the snow.

my

Purdey, dropping him stone dead I

I

in

full

going another hundred

As

had expected,

of

But he

up slowly and gave

broadside shot as he stood

top

the edge of

some 300 yards below me!

a snow-drift,

was

the valley

with a doubtful issue, and our

toiling

caught sight of

I

to so,

disposed to favour the latter

meant

this

camp was now many and great was

had he managed

;

being unable to do

or,

the bottom of

to

sulted Taba,

alternative

it

closely

off,

tracks led up for

the

sure

felt

I

rushed

I

time of

167

in

I

was

me

a

Off went his tracks.

found him to tape

well,

the

horn measurements being 52 inches along the curve, 19 inches girth,

and 38 inches spread.

Taba

pro-


1

AFTER WILD SHEEP

68

ceeded to cut

by turns up the

carried

was

meat

left

out

entirely

of

was

daylight

as

us

We

the

failing

our

of

sight

at

The

place

being

A

couple

where

ponies.

now made

for

camp,

and heartily greeted

fast,

tents

slopes.

the

high plateau

of

the

to

horses awaited us.

the

precipitous vultures,

reach

the

brought

hours

of

the

to

we now

head, which

his valuable

off

THE ALTAI

IN

On

p.m.

7

back Taba said that he had counted

at

our way least forty

ewes (arkkar) and about twenty rams (kotchkor) the herd

had

we had come

In

across.

the

in

skirmish

I

failed to count the deserters.

found the ladies

I

was so warm that we

high

in all

spirits.

The evening

dined out of doors, discussing

the clay's events, and the important question of the

morrow's brought

in

only a

morning, July

1st,

Cristo,

aspect.

Nicholas, and

from

Littledale

start.

6

a.m.

all

small

our

had had bad

On

head.

Russian

our

our Kalmuks were

loading

the

ponies,

and preparing everything

tents,

following

the

camp presented a most

Gabriel,

lively

interpreter

busy

pulling

and

luck,

at

work

down

for the start.

the

Our

demitcha, Yakoub, though a thorough gentleman of his kind, his

had

was not up

men to

to his mission.

He

kept ordering

about, but these obeyed reluctantly, and

depend almost

entirely

we

on our servants and


SKULLS OF SHEEP Taba, who made himself useful

We

round.

but the packs did not start

off at 9 a.m.,

According

all

169

map

the

to

the

till

were 1

1.

Chinese karaoul lay

about ten miles due south, but we soon found that it

was much further than we had expected, so did

the horses, for

was not

it

until 3 p.m. that

Kha's yourts (Kha

sight

of the

to the

Governor of a karaoul),

twenty-five the

way.

The

cipitous

on

we caught title

given

march of about

after a

Our

miles).

route

led

Boro-Burgassy Valley almost the whole rocky and

country was

cliffs

either

(sixteen

versts

down

the

is

Pre-

barren.

with grassy tablelands above stood up

growing

side,

lower

gradually

as

we

advanced, and turning eventually into an undulating steppe, through which, a few miles

flows the

Suok

numerous

skulls of

now and we as

region.

We

not

offering

coloured

Perhaps they were meant

imagine. to

the

gods,

ribbons hanging

None

spied

several

hot,

corresponding to

on trees

in

the

Kalmuk

the

of these heads were worth picking up.

but saw no rams.

scorching

That day we came across

sheep strewing the ground, and

again piled up in heaps, for what purpose

could

an

River.

beyond the karaoul,

and

ewes on the surrounding

The weather was I

believe this

march we had during the

slopes,

lovely, the sun

was the warmest

entire trip.

A

few miles


i

7o

before

a

AFTER WILD SHEEP reaching

the karaoul

THE ALTAI

IN

we were met by

dozen Chinamen on horseback,

picturesque costumes.

We

been sent by the head

or Kha, to

They wore

coats of different colours,

half

most

understood that they had

official,

us in Chinese territory.

the

in

all

welcome

sheepskin-lined

by no means

tight-fitting

SKULLS OF SHEEP TILED UP IN HEAPS.

breeches entering into Russian leather embroidered top-boots

with

turned-up

points

various-shaped caps, over which their respective ranks in

these men,

at

the

toes,

Chinese hierarchy.

who appeared

to

be

and

coral beads denoted

in

One

of

command, wore

a silver belt around his waist with numerous trinkets attached to

it,

such as a pipe-case, a small box, a


THE "KARAOUL" of

bit

etc.,

flint,

all

171

mounted.

silver

This

was

belt

later on to form the subject of long and

destined

unsuccessful bargaining between the Littledales and

The

owner.

Their

rifles,

slung on their shoulders, were primitive

The

flint-locks.

length of their pig-tails was also

in

Naturally our conversation

proportion to their rank.

was of the

its

others also carried belts of lesser value.

though

briefest description,

I

several times

put questions about kotchkor, of which they seemed to

be entirely ignorant.

karaoul.

It

We

now soon reached

At the

and there along the banks of the stream. further end of the village stood a

looking yourt, into

the

consisted of a few yotirts scattered here

surrounded

more

respectable-

wooden

by a

palisade,

which were stuck several red and yellow

This was the Kha's palace.

We

flags.

decided to pitch our

camp some two hundred yards away from

the yourts,

so as to avoid the close neighbourhood of

unwelcome

insect

pests

that

make acquaintance

would be only too delighted with European blood.

ponies not having yet arrived, to inspect the native dwellings, dirtier

than

Chinamen

we had

sat

smoking

I

Our pack-

went with

my

long

A pipes

few

ragged

round the

fireplace,

and the combined smoke rendered the

stifling.

They

all

wife

and found them even

anticipated. their

to

seemed very astonished

at

air

the


AFTER WILD SHEEP

172

and made a

sight of us,

THE ALTAI

IN

round

circle

examining

us,

us closely, fingering- our clothes, and paying special attention above

We

had

explain

was about

when we saw

At the head of uniform,

with

Our

came

a small

followers,

peacock

in

his

Chinese

feather

in

By

his

The

sight

After

the

sent

his

an

us,

tobacco

tacit

interview.

expressions

with regard to conversa-

that,

interpreter

filled

karaoul

the

marched behind.

imposing

bows and

;

our old friends

recognised

meet

be his

to

and

ours,

there was a

from Kalmuk to Chinese.

gap was soon the

and

pipe

quite

we found

link, viz.

at

to

promised

between

be

his

preliminary

of friendship

missing

boy (who turned out

whom we

in

who had been

to

Kha

traditional

carrying

interpreter),

this

the procession approach.

walked the

the

were

tents

cap as an emblem of his governorship.

his

side

tion

it

signs

their

come and greet

to

the distinguished white foreigners. up,

to

they were

articles

we understood from

as

that the head official

hardly

crop.

Needless to say that we shortened our

in.

especially

visit,

wife's riding

on our pantomimic powers

use of the different

the

interested

my

things to

all

to rely entirely

Luckily

by a Kalmuk who happened at

the

time,

and

who was

acquainted with both languages, having had frequent dealings

with

the

Kobdo

merchants.

His

name


EXCHANGE OF

CIVILITIES

i73

was Daniel, and we forthwith engaged for

Mongolian journey

the

month.

per

roubles

In

of civilities went through finally

the

at

this

his

rate

services

twenty

of

manner our exchange

four stages before

comprehended on both

sides

;

it

was

thus Littledale

jfeu*ai

"we were met

spoke

to

me

Russian for for

Daniel,

Chinese

for

in

by half a dozen chinamen."

English,

Nicholas,

who

the boy,

I

who turned

next translated

who

the comprehension of the

Every sentence took about which

which

it

translated it

into

into

Kalmuk

Mongolian

eventually brought

Kha

in

it

to

pure Pekin idiom.

half an hour to

considerably lengthened

into

the

go round,

interview.

Our


AFTER WILD SHEEP

174

main object was

obtain a reliable guide for the

to

we intended

country

to explore, but the old

question,

avoiding- the

THE ALTAI

IN

man

kept

and on being summoned

to

give a definite answer said he was unable to comply with our wishes without having previously received

On

orders from the authorities of Kobdo.

the other

hand he gave us a most lamentable description of misfortunes,

private

saying

his

he had been sent

that

through the intrigues of jealous

to this distant post

compatriots, and that he had had to leave his wife

and children

Finally he rose and departed,

at Pekin.

though not before having asked us

to

produce our

passports.

Towards evening

and

Littledale

I

returned

his

Bringing with us the precious passports, which

visit.

had been duly visdd by the Chinese Legations

London and interpreters,

yourt.

Our

St.

we

solemnly

firm intention

supplied with received

Petersburg,

a

evasive

native

entered

was

guide

answers,

to

but

;

and

Governor's

the insist

upon

being-

here again

none of

the

knowing anything about the country or the game was

to

be

inspiration.

found,

we had

to

The Kha's yourt

in

and followed by our

rely into

we suite

that

on our personal

which we were

introduced was larger and more comfortable than the others.

It

was hermetically closed by

felt,

strewn


DANIEL

175

with carpets, and the furniture consisted of a small

and a common

writing-desk, two or three low stools,

wooden cupboard carrying an ordinary guinea in

the corner were piled

ments of various

The gentleman

of

;

and shapes, which looked more

sizes

instruments

like

clock

up numerous brass imple-

than

torture

and

basins

jugs.

with the peacock feather greeted us

warmly, but the conversation under such conditions could

hardly

be

lively,

We

used

all

fiasco.

in

diplomatic

someone acquainted with the

obtain that

and ended

our

we were

complete

people

if

knew

they

that

according to our position,

we had

etc.

— but

our

in

country, and that our sovereigns would be very

annoyed

to

saying

region,

important

ourselves

a

resources

much

not been treated

The

in vain.

all

constant reply was that he had received no orders

from Kobdo. passports,

them

to

Moreover,

having perused our

after

he told us that he would have to send the

authorities

of

that

town

to

be care-

fully

examined, and that we should be obliged to

wait

till

weeks'

they

stay

were returned, the

at

to this ultimatum, for his courtesy,

of

our

starting on

karaoul.

which implied

Paying no attention

we solemnly got

and

up, thanked

retired with the

the following day.

new Chinese

three

interpreter Daniel

him

firm intention

In this

dilemma

came up

to

us


i

AFTER WILD SHEEP

76

IN

THE ALTAI

and proposed himself as a guide, saying he knew the country well enough, and asking us not to repeat this

to

any of the karaoul

accepted

his

services,

officials.

thankful

to

We

naturally

have got out of

the difficulty.

The evening was still

quite

we found

that our ponies

the previous day's long

up

warm, though we were

at an altitude of about 7,000 feet.

all

hopes of

work.

It

rest

had been so exhausted by

march that we had

leaving

twenty-four hours'

Next morning

to

give

the karaoul until another

should

was only one day

render them lost

after

all,

fit

tor

and we


CHINESE CURIOSITY

moment

expected Joseph every

from Kosh-Agatch

with a month's stores

— reinforcements

The weather

required.

177

which we badly After

continued beautiful.

luncheon our friends the Chinamen strolled up to our

camp with

a view of ascertaining" our plans, but

we

kept on the defensive in a most Machiavellian way.

Their curiosity was otherwise hardly a thing"

in

them going so

of

buttons,

and

satisfied, for there

our tents they

boots.

left

as to feel

far

The excuse

the ladies' skirts,

they gave for paying

we had spent a

us this visit was to learn whether

comfortable night.

They

was

untouched, some

professed to apologise for

not being able to supply us with a guide, and took

roundabout

Emperor

we .

turns

lives

that

such as

object,

:

Our

are quite ready to comply with your wishes, but

.

etc.

Here Mrs.

best

opportunity

.

the

already described. for

with

on very good terms with yours, and

it,

Littledale thought for

She

to entice

him

quainted with

into

might be

silver

man 60

offered the

and we produced sixty new

it

the

securing"

silver coins,

belt

roubles

hoping

the bargain, but he was not ac-

Russian money, or

at

least

appeared

not to be, and sent to his yourt for a pair of scales in

order to weigh the metal.

weighed be

all

it

When

he had carefully

he appeared to suggest that

silver,

it

might not

and that there might be lead

inside,


AFTER WILD SHEEP

178

whereupon we

IN

THE ALTAI

said he could cut one in half to assure

himself of the contrary.

Evidently he did not conFinally he said he

sider us trustworthy customers.

would not part with

his belt for less than 57

Chinese

oulans (114 roubles), but as Mrs. Littledale refused to ^ive such a

sum he brought

it

down

to 100 roubles.

A TAME YAK.

While

this

was taking place the others had each something

the

caught hold

of

every

with the greatest interest

article

seemed it

to frighten them,

towards them they

wards.

After this

all

in

examining

tent, ;

the camera

and when Littledale pointed

made

decisive

a sudden rush back-

trial

of

standing-

their

powers they took leave of us and departed. minutes

later

a

special

messenger from

A

the

few

Kha


PRESENTS brought

me

a

tin

of

tea

as

Excellency, saying that the

79

a

present

Emperor

from

of China and

a few favoured mandarins were the only people

had ever tasted such a beverage.

His

I

who

immediately

sent Nicholas to present the Governor, on

my

behalf,

^^^^^^m [TTLEDALE TRYING THE YAK.

with a pair of field-glasses and a Waterbury watch.

Thus ended our dealings with

The evening was covered

in

the karaoitl

officials.

lovely, the hills in the distance

were

a dark blue mist, and the undulating steppe

around us reflected the bright red hue of the setting sun.

As we were dining one

of the natives

came up


AFTER WILD SHEEP

180

to us with his

journey;

tame Yak,

Littledale

IN

THE ALTAI

offering his services for our

them,

declined

politely

though

not before he had tried the animal, which refused to

advance a stores,

our expectations

regard to letters

On

Joseph turned up

step.

but

the

at

not

— he had found none at

the following

towards

were

morning we

Bain

-

lifted

Khairkhan

plateaux seemed to promise

fine

6 p.m.

in

Kosh-Agatch.

camp

range,

with

realised

at 9 a.m.

whose

lofty

hunting-grounds.


CHAPTER

V.

— Camp at foot of Bain-Khairkhan Range —Wild Sheep seen — An unsuccessful Stalk —Antelopes seen — Sand-grouse — Wolves — Plover — Grayling fishing — Snow-cock Littledale's success — More Stalks — Shift Camp — Russian Merchant — March by Kobdo River — Hares — Marmot — Horses footsore — Kirghis Yourts — Marmot Skins — Crossing Tchagan-Kol River Chinese Karaoul — Valley of the Sumdairik — Muss-Taou Range —

March

to the

Suok River

Suok Valley

A new

Our

Guide

departure from the karaoul on the morning of

somewhat of a sensation

July 3rd must have produced at the

Chinese

permission at

till

post, for the

it

impossible for us to continue

our route without the guide

of

yourt on

his

but

stream,

we had

so unsuccessfully-

Our caravan passed solemnly by

for.

his

our passports had been duly examined

Kobdo, deeming

applied

Governor had refused

the

the side

its

way down

old

gentleman made no apparent

the

Boro-Burgassy

objection to our advance, and his passive opposition

showed

Our

itself

only by his not bidding us farewell.

intention that

Suok

to the

we

country N

2

day was

River, and pitch

to

make

camp by

a short march

crossed was barren and sunburnt 181

The

its side.

;

it

was


AFTER WILD SHEEP

i82

an undulating steppe on either

side,

map

aspect of a geographical

THE ALTAI

IN

for

and presented the

The now

the blind.

higher grounds of the Tchagan-Burgaza were hardly visible in the distance behind us a few miles ahead, the range of

hills

in front rose,

;

known

as the

Bain-Khairkhan, which we were so anxious

to

in-

vestigate, whilst to our left ran a series of low table-

which

lands,

I

explored later on, and found several

These were the Beliou mountains.

rams.

Three hours brought us Boro-Burgassy and Suok

camp

noon

at

The wind blew

after

at

the

foot

a short

furiously,

erection of our tents.

the

of

to

the junction

rivers,

of

the

where we pitched

march of twelve

miles.

which greatly hindered the

We

now found

ourselves nearly

massive range we

intended

to

inspect on the morrow.

The

valley of

the Suok, bordered on

west by the Bain-Khairkhan lofty wide, Mat

steppe than

was

and promising

clear

slow,

owing

was here

in

for

Grayling, the

twain,

for the first time, the its effects.

and we had much

timber to replace them.

water current

the ground.

to the gentle slope of

that,

the south-

was more a

The Suok

a valley.

ness of the climate showed

broke

crest,

It

exceeding dry-

The

bed-poles

difficulty in finding

Luckily

we discovered

small clump of trees, the only one within

many

a

miles,


HERDS OF ANTELOPE mostly pine and larch, growing opposite

axe

an

with

He

back

bring

to

which

ones

succeeded

were soon

in

dry,

our

serve

a most intelligent manner, and

we

it

But these had

into shape.

was some days before they were

Meantime we had

to

the whole afternoon.

the

strap

fit

broken

Rain poured

ones together as tightly as possible.

down

purpose.

possession of a couple of poles which

in

and

use.

for

two or three of the

might

were ultimately worked to

a ravine on the

in

and immediately despatched Taba

slopes,

straightest

183

There was no

to

fuel

be obtained on the spot, and our dinner that night consisted of dried "Julienne" and tinned tongue.

the following started for the

we found

On

morning, at 3 a.m., Littledale and hills.

easily

We

fordable

I

crossed the river, which close

to

and

camp,

reaching a small plateau half-way up, separated

on in

different directions.

In

three hours

land, about

we found

ourselves on the table-

1,500 feet above camp-level.

Although

our tents appeared to stand at the very foot of the range, yet

so deceiving

steppe, that the hills

was the distance over the

seemed gradually moving away

from us as we advanced over that endless our

way we came

plain.

On

across several herds of antelope,

probably A. gutturosa, and here for the

first

time

we


1

AFTER WILD SHEEP

84

IN

THE ALTAI

met with antelopes of a much smaller

also

my Kalmuks

which

a few hundred yards from us and

start at

some time on the same spot

like

know

that

curious

this

we

shooting sheep,

We

beyond the Suok steppe,

our return journey, antelope.

species

do not

animal has ever been

did not see any of the valley of the

where, however, on

plain,

we bagged

them

Kobdo,

several of the larger

should estimate the height of the smaller

I

to

I

sorry that, being intent on

in

Kosh-Agatch

nor on the

for

did not endeavour to secure one

two specimens.

or

little

am

jump

india-rubber balls

before dashing off at a tremendous pace.

described before, and

species,

They would

"Suite."

called

be about twenty inches at the withers,

roughly speaking, and the coat was of a dark brown hue,

growing

lighter

When we

had

under the stomach.

finally

crossed the

dreary steppe

we began ascending one of the numerous

parallel

ravines leading up to the higher grounds, and our

ponies steep

found

it

marshy

by no means easy

slopes.

There was

to

toil

up the

no avoiding

it,

however, and at 6 a.m. we landed on a broad plateau,

which a promising sheep country came

from view. the

Two

or three heads of

wild sheep strewed

ground, and gave us hopes of success.

we drew

lots,

Littledale

and

I,

into

Here

and parted on our


AN UNKNOWN COUNTRY exploring

fortune sending

trip,

my companion

took

the

me

185

to the right, whilst

opposite

The

direction.

scenery in front of us was a wild and desolate one long arid distance

;

succeeded each

tablelands

other

in

;

the

occasional rocky boulders springing out of

them broke the monotony of the view, corries

with

divided

the

banks

precipitous

from

plateaux

of

one

whilst deep

stones

rolling

Small

another.

streams trickled at the bottom of the ravines, with patches of grass on -either side, and wide stretches of

snow melted

sun, the in

under the rays of the rising

fast

whole conveying the impression of a drawing

Not a creature was

black and white.

save a few

which

Plovers,

fluttered

sight

in

round

us,

en-

deavouring to draw our attention from their nests,

and a herd of Yaks, which had been abandoned on

summer grazing by some

the high grounds for

Kirghiz

suddenly took

fright,

and started

off

in

a

gallop with the noise of a charge of cavalry.

Taba nor my

other

country, and the

word

"

in

lateral

this

manner

corries,

mounted

at the

for

Bclbess" to

my

some

("

I

of the

do not know")

We

questions.

time,

frantic

Neither

Kalmuk knew anything

was the constant answer on

stray

As we advanced on horseback they

tribe.

crossing

spying on our way, and

edge of a steep descent

finally in

rode

several dis-

order to


1

AFTER WILD SHEEP

86

inspect

more

no game was

when

the ground

carefully

and

visible,

half

before

into the

my

it

of

field

up

my

an inch above an intervening ridge.

Sure enough these were wild sheep ing

But

us.

was about giving

I

came

a few grey specks

telescope,

THE ALTAI

IN

sight to the utmost

I

at last

managed

to

Strain-

!

make

out

the large spread of their horns, and counted ten rams

lounging

my

turned

some two miles

in front of

our

Taba's face gleamed with joy as he

re-

the open,

in

position.

glass,

and

could

I

examining the nullah below

us,

him anxiously

see

and mentally making-

plans for the forthcoming stalk.

In a

moment we

got out of sight, descending over the rolling stones,

and dragging our ponies

after

There was a

us.

noisy dislodging of boulders, and the ponies refused several times to advance, but the sheep were a long

way

off,

trouble,

of

and there were no other means of proceed-

This dangerous scramble succeeded

ing.

and we found ourselves

down

under shelter of

question ridge

again, following

the stream the best part of a mile so as to

get well round the place where herd,

much

safe in the depths

Here we mounted

the nullah.

after

now

the

arose whether

unnoticed,

we had

opposite

we

located the

slopes.

The

could cross the next

and whether the further banks of

the second ravine would conceal us from

the com-


A DILEMMA

187

mandirig view from the plateau on which the sheep

were

lying.

the stalk was possible, for

If so,

I

had

detected a hollow which led up to within a hundred

yards

So we

them.

of

but

on,

toiled

on

found,

peeping over the summit, that further advance would

mean sight

whole herd was

certain failure, for the

some 800 yards across the

carried splendid heads,

were grand old

in

full

The rams

corrie.

and two of them especially In

patriarchs.

this

dilemma we

decided to retrace our steps, and try the same ridge

down

further in

good

order,

we crossed

We

cover. I

first

Taba

the valley.

many

a

Taba.

expected,

under

entered a wide grassy nullah, which

we made

slip

to

valley with

horses

we had

ridge,

now

as

straight

on seeing no sign of

'twixt

the

"

at

opposite side,

very edge of the

But

lying.

cup and the

leave the ponies

my

the

for

to the

on which they were

decided

way back

and another half a mile lower down

where a long ravine ran up plateau

the

the

carefully inspected, and,

the sheep,

led

"

lip."

the bottom

second horseman

"

there

is

I

had

of

the

and go on with

As we were half-way down

the slope the

showed signs of nervousness, the cause of

which was soon explained,

for

saw a Wolf within 40 yards of

on looking round us,

I

crouching low on

a patch of snow, evidently on the warpath.

As we


1

AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

88

approached, he quietly gazed

at us

and walked slowly

apparently disappointed at our interference, and

off,

now and

looking reproachfully back at us

was

omen

ill

when up

indeed, and hardly had

from

sprang,

behind a mass of rock, a

couple of ewes, and trotted off

had chosen at the

my

feelings

No

!

had intended

I

vent to his rage

As

moment. in his usual

my

for

he gave

Taba,

broken English vocabu-

A

which by no means helped matters.

lary,

we

to take

words can convey an idea of

that

at

the direction

in

approaching the rams, disappearing

for

very point from which

shot

This

then.

we advanced

faint

hope, however, inspired us that the sheep might not

have

been completely scared away,

might perhaps I

left

Taba,

still

them

that

we

the neighbourhood.

in

the horses by the stream and, together with

followed

up the gully

wind was blowing be,

find

and

and had

it

in

in

low

spirits.

our faces as steadily as could

not been for those ewes

should have given

The

my

rifle

a

chance.

I

certainly

When we

reached the top, however, we found that our precautions were useless,

for

the sheep had vanished,

and we soon stood on the place where they had been

lying,

numerous

now on

evidence of this being afforded by the

fresh droppings on the ground.

a lofty plateau at the back of

We

were

the highest


OUR BILL OF FARE

189

Snow had

summit of the Bain-Khairkhan range. by

this

time almost entirely melted, thus destroying

our only chance of discovering- the direction which

We

had taken.

the herd

ground

examined the

carefully

a mile round the plateau, excepting in

for

the direction from camp, as

it

was getting

Suok

miles separated us from the

and

late,

River.

But

though we used our glasses with the utmost

care,

ten

inspecting every corner in the depths of each nullah,

was no

there

game

be

to

We

vanished like ghosts. retrace our steps, and,

seen

mounting our

Littledale

busily

He

engaged

allotted to

proposed should I

had

Mrs.

that

the

He was

I

found

new bed-

try

shifting

the

to

following

unexpectedly come

Littledale

convinced that the

him was not worth

before

have a so

fitting

in.

had come across a few ewes, but had

returned empty-handed.

ground

in

to

steeds, reached

the tents just before darkness had set

poles.

had

sheep

the

;

accordingly decided

new day

and

visiting,

quarters at

across.

the

he

herd

Moreover,

was suffering from a bad headache,

and we accordingly decided upon another day's

rest

My

wife

before starting for the

Muss-Taou

had been fishing

stream and had causrht a few

in the

range.

Grayling, thus giving us a change in our customary bill

of fare,

which invariably consisted of pea-soup


i

AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

9o

consomme

Maggi's

or

4

and

mutton,

,

tinned

fruit.

Littledale was off early next morning, whilst

mained

camp with

in

simply overpowering-,

degrees our

The

ladies.

The

it

belozo

zero

fell

begins to

stopped the whole day

I

130

soon

as

;

tell,

Within

worth noting.

is

from

20 in

and

it

sun

the

as

may

return, but at 9 p.m. there

sets

freeze at

morning

appeared

at

six

however,

him, and

was

there at

7

the

in the distance,

Littledale's

when we awoke no

Littledale.

three

horsemen

and great was our

with a decidedly triumphant

air, for

relief

riding in

front

there sure enough

out a magnificent ram's head tied at the

back of Taba's saddle.

Littledale forthwith

an account of his twenty-eight hours' outing

He

had found

beyond the

ill-fated

direction

succeeded

altitude

any moment.

still

a.m.

when we recognised our companion

we made

or six

five

was no sign of him, nor of

Taba who had accompanied

Ultimately,

in

degrees above to 3 degrees

Towards evening we anxiously expected

only

1

extraordinary variation of temperature

these regions

hills.

was

sheltering from the scorching- rays of the

hours

next

re-

I

heat

my thermometer showing

the shade.

in

tent,

sun.

the

in

I

my

in

the

herd a couple of miles

plateau

had

gave us

failed

in

a small nullah in the

to

approaching them

examine, and

had

late in the afternoon,


A SPLENDID HEAD

191

not before he had realised the actual size of the two

One

largest rams. rifle,

19?,

fallen

his

to

spot,

inches in girth at the base, 60 inches length along

and 40 inches from

the curve,

he thought was a perhaps shorter

the

as

still

he

said,

had not

frightened by his single shot.

The

been greatly reason he had

rocks,

where further advance was out of question both

men and

in

a steep gorge, and he found himself

in

a cul-de-sac amongst inaccessible

in

me

to secure

night was that darkness had set

all

while he was shut up

other

and he strongly advised

and make an attempt

animals,

stayed out

The

tip to tip.

more massive head, though

in length,

off directly

to start it,

of these had then

and the horns measured, as taped on the

He

ponies.

for

had accordingly squatted down

with his hunters under a protruding ledge and waited

A

dawn.

for

small bit of chocolate divided in three

had constituted

their

evening meal

;

were kept up by the day's success. the possibility of I

decided

started

my

on

to

behalf,

whole night me. a

But

failure.

take

my

chance

We

hearing of

without

delay,

and

Taba, who was most anxious

and who, though he had spent the

in the open, insisted

this

On

coming across the other large ram

J.30 with

at

but their spirits

upon accompanying

hurried departure was

doomed

to be

covered that day miles and miles of


i

AFTER WILD SHEEP

92

country, and rode far first

had

Littledale

had

a wide, grassy

at

p.m.,

7

passed the very spot

the day before,

killed

had seen the animals

I

was highly disgusted

camp

We

but no rams.

leisure,

where

I

we reached

I

where we found several herds of ewes grazing

a mile from where

to

beyond the plateau where

spied the sheep, until

valley, at

THE ALTAI

IN

at

my

after

bad

We

luck.

hardly

lying,

and

returned

twelve hours' continuous

without having caught sight of anything worth

riding,

a shot.

Thus ended our hills.

The

was

result

Bain-Khairkhan

sport over the

but

small,

the

satisfactory,

trophy obtained being that of the largest Ovis aniiuou yet on record, trip.

and the second best during the whole

Next morning, July

a general

7th,

camp was

and

lifted,

was made down the Suok valley

start

with the object of pitching tents

if

possible at the

Kobdo

junction of that stream with the

River.

Our

Chinese interpreter, Daniel, who was acting as guide,

had come up he thought

above the

to

me

might

I

left

the night before saying that

find

me

range, thence bringing

it

in

He

added

a day,

in the

slopes bordering the

volunteering to take

place.

sheep

and

that I

lower mountains

Suok

steppe, and

to a fine nullah in the Beliou

me on

to

we could

our next camping just

manage

naturally assented

to

the

to

do

pro-


HERDS OF ANTELOPE made no

Littledale

position.

193

objection,

and said he

would manage the march, so accordingly at

with

a.m.

3

spicuous

red

Daniel,

and

coat,

who was

dressed

I

started

in

a conLepet,

hunter,

Littledale's

poor Taba being done up with the hard work of previous

the

we met with larger

and smaller kind.

coursing round

across the steppe

They would

us,

us approach

let

start off at a great pace,

and stopping

at times to

watch our

A

couple of hours brought us to the

hills,

when we be^an ascending a narrow

proceedings. foot of the

way

our

400 yards and then

to within

gully,

On

day.

several herds of Antelope, both of the

which gradually widened as we advanced, and

eventually turned into a broad stretch of stony tableland. for

was a

It

bright,

itself felt at 7

a.m. as

we came

dismounted.

Numbers

presence, ran

in

of the

We

sunny day, too bright

in fact

easy stalking, and the heat was already making

Marmot

were now

sea-level

;

the

front

of

Hares,

To

ground and

startled

and the

of us,

shrill

by our whistle

alone broke the silence of the morning. at

an altitude of about 9,000

hills

our

feet

presented an aspect of

boulders, covered with shingle

of grass.

into likely

left

and occasional patches

rose a

pinnacles with perpendicular

above rolling

huge mass of rocky

cliffs

some hundred

high, at the foot of which lay traces of snow.

feet

Before


AFTER WILD SHEEP

194

we discovered

lis

broad

a

THE ALTAI

IN

valley

affording

pasture grounds, and at the bottom of

stream

Beliou

towards as

due

with

it

we moved

eastwards.

now advanced

I

both of us spying carefully

Lepet,

on,

good

flowed the

it

and leaving our friend Daniel, with

his bright red stalking jacket, in

charge of the ponies.

He

to

I

seemed highly disappointed

be

behind, but

left

explained to him that his conspicuous array would

considerably handicap us, and might compromise the success of our stalk in case

But he was not

we came

the plea that he was

following us at a distance on responsible for our safety. the plateau

the whole

On

reaching the edge of

came

valley

Lepet immediately pointed out rams,

across game.

and would keep

to be thus despised,

lying in a corrie about

into

me

to

a

Seeing us suddenly squat down, Daniel,

by sheer

and

for himself,

force, for

up

had

totally

us.

unable

to us in order to to

keep him

low-

he moved his head up and down

which threatened

a most careless fashion, the sheep's attention. carried

I

of seven

800 yards below

to restrain his impatience, crawled

have a peep

view, and

lot

I

saw

that

in

to attract

two of the rams

good heads, and were worth trying

for,

but

the open ground on which they lay prevented further

advance.

Just as

I

was considering our next move

the animals got up and started off at a gallop.

I

was


A DIFFICULT PATH

195

convinced that they had seen Daniel, and was about vent

to

give

me

that they

my

to

when Lepet assured

feelings,

were only shifting

to cooler quarters for

shelter from the scorching rays of the sun, under the

rocks

had previously

I

believe him,

behave

for

noticed.

I

though they ran

was disposed

to

they did not

fast

frightened animals, which generally after

like

a sharp gallop suddenly halt to take breath and look

round

in the direction of

off again

and

it

at

full

the intruder, and then gallop

They never turned

speed.

became evident

that they

rocks.

But we should now have

place.

When

we decided

were making

once, for the

to find their hiding-

had disappeared over a ridge

they

mount our ponies and proceed down

to

the corrie and up to the place

where we had

lost sight

of them, leaving the horses again below the ridge.

The

ravine

owing

we had

to negotiate

to the rolling stones,

ground, which that this

we had

was too much

this

its

bottom.

for the ponies,

The

difficult

at places soft

to cross at

and went on with Lepet. left

and

was a

"

red

I

man

marshy Seeing

dismounted "

was again

behind, and happily this time did not object. stage

I

one

At

found that the wind was blowing steadily

at our backs, so

I

suggested a long detour which took

us an hour to make, and of the next corrie

when we reached

we were on

the top

the far side of the


1

AFTER WILD SHEEP

96

THE ALTAI

IN

rocky buttresses, among" stretches of melting snow.

A

Snowcock

large bird, reminding one of a

away

fluttered

gallus),

seven or eight young ones.

was

called

;

"

he answered

of

front

in

I

(

Tetrao-

by

followed

us,

asked Lepet what

Ullar"

it

a whisper, for no

in

hunter took greater precautions on the war-path than

On

Lepet.

advancing a

little

further

I

the sheep, lying about 500 yards

away

began crawling towards them on

all-fours.

was no approaching them,

grew

So

of us.

I

trusting to fortune. I

now

could

dip

the

of

every

moment

within

shot

patient,

waited amongst the larger rocks,

One

of the rams, the only one

our direction, and

in

Again

ground.

but

waited,

in

right.

in

expecting

nothing came, and, growing im-

this

manner the edge

of the

the herd had

;

Here Lepet caught me by

On

the

hollow,

I

moved away

arm and pointed

!

to

Sure enough there were three sheep,

some 400 yards below evidently

disappeared

the sight of a pair of horns emerging

found no sign of game

our

I

crept on, after taking Lepet's advice.

I

reaching

;

But there

for the boulders presently

got up, and slowly stretching his

see,

limbs walked a

and

left,

and an open slanting slope extended

scarcer,

in front

soon found

to our

making

for

us,

playing and fighting, and

a

perpendicular

which separated us from them.

Two

rocky

wall

were young


A RUNNING SHOT the

males,

covered

in

and

the morning,

we should

fident

As we reached

could not

I

My

cliffs.

find them,

as they did not

it,

seem

to

As soon

tell.

rather doubted

I

inclined to settle down.

we began

the edge of the precipice

Lepet suddenly stopped

move forward

to

I

depths

the

like

but

;

dis-

companion was con-

though

me

peering carefully over into

me

we had

from view we rushed, Lepet

hidden

towards the

I,

Whether these

ram.

old

fine

or part of the herd

lot,

they were

as

a

third

were a fresh

197

and

below,

a statue, beckoning to

had hardly time

come

to

up when out of the crags dashed the three rams wild confusion

took fully

when

my

aim and

50 yards

1

I

A

some hundred yards beneath me.

running shot was

my

By

only chance.

and great was

saw him stagger

for a

the time

I

sheep he was

fired at the biggest

off,

in

my amazement

second and, consider-

ably slackening his pace, walk slowly away,

whilst

the two younger rams halted and kept looking back,

But the poor

apparently waiting for their superior. old fellow

hollow.

was very weak, and soon

"Jakski, baaloii" ("Bravo,

lay

Lepet with a triumphant smile, as he watch the animal through his

now abandoned

their

plainly distinguish

glass.

comrade

from where

down

sat

The

a

was

his

down

to

others had

to his fate. I

in

wounded"), said

I

could

shoulders


i

AFTER WILD SHEEP

9S

THE ALTAI

IN

and head, which he swayed from one side feeling evidently restless

Lepet

in his

the steep

commanding

cliff

position,

As

proceedings, and

thereby gathered

when suddenly

right,

me

and gave

an easy broadside

inches length by

well (51

A

\$>\

up

second after

found him to be

I

fairly

inches girth), though

were unfortunately broken

tips

every-

that

His horns taped

an old veteran of his kind.

both

looked

I

the sheep got

shot.

motionless to the ground.

fell

half an

could see Lepet on the sky-line intent upon

I

thing was

he

me

took

It

hour to creep within range of him.

my

Leaving

scrambled down

I

and advanced along the plateau, keep-

ing out of sight of the beast.

back

to another,

and uncomfortable.

To my

off.

astonishment Daniel made his appearance with the before

ponies rascal

had been unable

clivities,

thus

Lepet had time

subdue

and had been stalking on

running

gratulated

vent to

to

me

my

the so

risk

warmly

discontent,

friendly manner.

of that

come

to

his

sporting pro-

his

own

spoiling I

account,

He

all.

con-

refrained from invino-

and we shook hands

When my

The

up.

hunter arrived

in

we

a most

joined

our efforts to grallock the dead ram, and cut him up in

quarters.

sleeves,

the

Daniel with his red gown, tucked-up

showing

dismal

look

his

blood-smeared arms, presented

of

an

executioner

in

the

Middle


A TEDIOUS MARCH Ages

199

the fatal axe would have completed the picture.

;

Having- packed the meat and head of the kotchkor

on our saddles, we started

at 2 p.m.

towards our next

The

heat was almost

presumed camping ground.

unendurable as our ponies struggled over the stony

numerous rocky

tableland and across

way we came

On

ravines.

young rams,

across the two

still

our

search-

ing for their lost companion, but no others were to

At

be seen.

marshy of the to

we

6 p.m.

low down

tents,

caught sight of our near a broad,

about three miles from the junction

stretch,

Suok and Kobdo

make

rivers.

We

were obliged

a dtHour in order to avoid getting stuck in

camp

the bog, and reached

The

in.

finally

in the valley, pitched

and

ladies

my

and admired

as darkness

Littledale greeted

well-earned

was setting

my

return,

The march

trophy.

along the steppe, they told me, had been so trying for the horses,

had

been

obliged

to the

to

stop

extreme before

day

successful

last

time.

their

to dinner in the best of spirits, little

the difficulties that lay before us.

our

heat, that they

which was the Kobdo River.

destination,

down

owing

A

valley of

series

the

now awaited

of

tedious

We

sat

knowing

This was to be

for a considerable

long

intended

length of

marches up the

Kobdo, through a gameless country,

us,

till

after

many

a struggle

we decided


AFTER WILD SHEEP

200

abandon

to

IN

THE ALTAI

towards

our journey

Muss-Taou

the

range, and, turning off northwards, found "fresh fields

and pastures new."

On

the morning of

camp,

go

in

spite

them

We

till

of

we

July

Kalmuk's

our

of

8th

struck

unwillingness

and mounted our steeds

further,

waited

the

at

the ponies were duly loaded, and, sending

off in front, followed

them up

at close quarters.

soon found ourselves on the banks of the

Kobdo

River, which at that spot attains a width of 300

and as

is

we

very rapid. discovered

Its later,

the Tchagan-Kol, which

feet,

water was deep and muddy,

owing

to

chief tributary,

its

we reached on

the following-

day, and which flows through sandy and clayey

Above

to

We

7 a.m.

the tributary the water of

perfectly clear,

and afforded

we were agreeably

As we

its

slope

left

small

surprised at the sight of

woods bordering the willow, ash,

Kobdo was

the

capital fishing.

entered the valley and began ascending

soil.

river, consisting chiefly of larch,

and abundance of juniper

in

full

bloom.

This considerably altered the aspect of the country,

which had hitherto been dreary and desolate. with

the

heat

of

the

day and

caravan advanced very slowly.

had gradually worn away most of them

footsore.

What

hard ground,

The unshod

their hoofs,

our

ponies

and were now

Moreover, our men were


A HARD PULL beginning to grumble, and

201

was

it

could do to keep them in order.

snowy range

to reach the

all

our demitcha

We

were anxious

head of the valley

at the

as quickly as possible, but this half-hearted advance

was by no means encouraging, and, though we had arranged with the Zaissan at Kosh-Agatch to supply

we

us with a fresh lot of ponies every month,

expected that they would find us

now

According

exploring.

would take us

at least

meaning white ment,

in

we found

my

to

two days

Kol, or Ak-Kol, River (both

Mongol), ourselves

in the wilds

forty-verst map,

"Tchagan" and

on

its

it

Tchagan-

to reach the

but, to

hardly

we were

"

Ak "

our great astonish-

banks that very

evening after crossing a long steep pass, and having covered a distance of about tw enty miles from the r

Suok

Evidently the map, our main guide,

River.

was as unreliable as our confessed confined

that to

There was to

the

friend

who now

Daniel,

knowledge of the country was

his

caravan

practically

the pass in the

route

to

Kobdo

town.

no path, and the ascent up

afternoon

was a hard

pull

for

our pack-horses, several of which straggled behind,

and had the of

to

be

top a broad

repeatedly reloaded.

reaching

swamp, produced by the junction

the Tchagan- Kol and

view.

On

The former

Kobdo

rivers,

came

into

flowed through a wide and arid


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

202

numerous clumps of its

banks on either

stood

the

whilst

steppe,

alkali

trees

latter

was concealed by

and bushes growing along In the middle of the plain

side.

a couple of Kirghiz yourts,

who was on

a tradesman

annual

his

which

lived

summer

tour,

in

We

gathering marmot skins from the natives. cided

pitch

to

camp by

the

of these yourts,

side

and cross the Tchagan-Kol on the morrow. of

our packs came

upon

7

when we

p.m.

morning as a

I

their

flatly

of

my

our dcmitcha

through Nicholas, the

men

late,

finally

came out

night,

restless

very

in

and

settled

down.

tent at let

Some

was

it

close

Next

a.m.,

5

me

understand

He

said that

ponies had been mercilessly overworked,

were

sore,

after

Russian interpreter, that the

declined to go any further.

their backs

de-

that

that the few sheep, the only

remnants of former prosperity, had been devoured

by wolves during the altogether unfordable. Littledale

rebellion. it.

We

and that the

river

was

This was indeed a piece of

and

I

would hear nothing of

promised them a short march that day, and

said that

all

come by

us,

that

night,

those difficulties would be easily over-

who were "mighty white

no power could stop

us.

The

chiefs,"

and

dcmitcha then

confided to us that the instigator of the whole move-

ment was one of the Kalmuks who had deserted from


REBELLIOUS KALMUKS China

into Russian territory,

and that

if

°3 he was caught

by the Celestial authorities he would be sentenced to death.

him

Whereupon

had him

I

that so long as he

us faithfully

we should

called

up,

and

told

remained with us and served

protect

him against the Chinese

•ACK-I'ONIES.

Emperor

As

himself.

for

the horses,

said,

I

they

a

permanent

camp, and food would be supplied to the

men some-

would soon

how

or other.

recover

while

This seemed

resting

to

in

have a cheering

on them, especially as we expected

encampment a few

miles higher up, where

buy some sheep.

We

struck

effect

to find a Kirghiz

we

could

camp accordingly

at


AFTER WILD SHEEP

204

7

and soon found ourselves on the low banks

a.m.,

of

Tchagan-Kol River.

the

broad at that place

;

but

the

I

it

up

to

its

very sources,

In

ford.

maintain

in

order

and

we should

find

con-

to cross the

unless

that,

we were

we went

no available

to

continually obliged to

our men,

influence

back and abandon

turn

to

whom we

dealer,

dilemma we risked not only losing

this

our prestige, which

having

was high and muddy,

was impossible

river at that time of year,

the

but

also

Muss-Taou

Having no portable boat with

hunting-grounds.

Littledale

kind during that

his-

had had some experience of

for

the

use of our waterproof sheets

first

to

To

purpose.

amazement we accordingly was the

watched shoulders, will

our Kalmuk's

set to work.

Little

Taba

understand what we were about, and,

together with Cristo, Gabriel, and contributed

this

journey through Tibet, and decided

we should make

and bed-poles

us,

some

the only plan was to build ourselves a raft of kind.

feet

suggested trying to find a

Marmot -skin

sulted, assured us that

was about 150

It

the water

and the current strong. ford,

THE ALTAI

IN

to

ensure

passively,

which

now and was

Nicholas, greatly

then

equivalent

never get over that job."

the frame was practically ready

other

men

shrugging

their

The

success.

to

saying,

"

You

In a couple of hours ;

it

consisted of our


MAKING A RAFT bed-poles lashed together

in

and tightly bound

at

proof sheet, which

we used

was then attached possible

;

the

to

the form of a square,

the corners.

this

205

A

large water-

as the floor of our tent,

square frame as firmly as

bottom was strengthened by several

PREPARING TO CROSS THE TCHACAN-KOI

other

waterproofed canvas sheets,

and a long

bit

of rope was attached to each of the opposite corners of this improvised ferry, one end of which

was taken

over to the farther side by two Kalmuks, whilst the other end remained on the haul

the

genious

boat

back

contrivance

after

was

left

each

bank, and served to

voyage.

completed

This

in-

by noon, and


AFTER WILD SHEEP

206

the question then arose

how

this

would stand the force of the

who had

extemporary vessel

current.

been chief engineer, got in

instructions

business

THE ALTAI

IN

it

the

to

was

MRS. LITTLEDALE

men on

to pull

the

Littledale,

first,

other

the raft across

after final

side ;

whose

but just as

AND THE AUTHOR CROSSING THE TCHAGAN-KOL.

he was reaching mid-stream (they either pulled too

hard or the boat was badly balanced) water flowed in

over the

hauled

The for

back,

sides,

and our companion

submerged almost up

to

had

to

the

waist.

be

next voyage, however, proved more successful, the

weight of

the

luggage steadied the

vessel,


CROSSING THE TCHAGAN-KOL which

alighted

safely

some

yards

fifty

The whole

the opposite bank.

s째7

lower

impedimenta crossed the Tchagan-Kol

in this

and the horses swam over without

incident.

this

on

of the caravan and

occupied the whole day, and

it

manner,

was not

But until

A SMOOTH PASSACK.

6 p.m. that side.

We

forthwith dry.

we found

camp

pitched

hung

all

ourselves safely on the other

The Kalmuks

looked

greatest possible respect,

a time.

close

to

our sheets and at

us

the

river,

and

bedding- out to

now

with

and grumbling ceased

the for


AFTER WILD SHEEP

2o8

at

On

the

7

a.m.

morning, July

following

now

perfectly

and

6th,

beautiful.

The water

us.

clear,

Along the

Grayling. rich

1

wo

started

up the Kobdo River again, leaving the

Tchagan-Kol behind was

THE ALTAI

IN

tall

for

banks the vegetation was

passed through sunny glades,

amongst shady groves of pine and grass was

Kobdo

the

and looked promising

river

We

in

The

willow.

and wonderfully green, whilst flowers

of every description and colour completed the smiling picture.

was a pleasant change

It

followed gaily the windings of

joyed the verdure of

to

The

this oasis.

us,

as

we

stream, and en-

the

hills

on either

side were mostly barren, with occasional small larch

woods, their altitude not exceeding 8,000 1

p.m.

we reached

after

meadow on

a small

and decided

of the river,

feet.

At

the very banks

to halt there for the night,

having covered a distance of about twenty miles.

Our pack

-

ponies had picked up a

comparatively easy march

little

over soft grass,

a welcome sight to watch them

come

in

during

and

one

it

this

was

after the

other, neighing joyfully as they were being unloaded,

and

rolling

on the ground

the afternoon

and myself.

we went

in

wild contentment.

out fishing,

my

This was not merely

but to supply food for our men,

more sheep, and were

in

In

wife, Littledale, for

who

amusement, possessed no

a constant state of ferment.


A DIFFICULTY

209

Fortunately, though the wind was strong, Grayling

were numerous, and appeared

Kalmuks,

camp

for

to be as

hours

a couple of

in

we

which

These

fish

capital

sport.

rose

As

amongst

distributed

to

any kind of for

animal

Next morning we were

sharp turn of the

rocks barred further advance.

on both

cliffs

sides.

surmounting the

we decided

difficulty

rately to a long rope

was

The till

it

valley

had been

formed a gorge

There was no

visible

After

detour.

that the only to tie each

means of

pony sepa-

and swim them round the projecting

rock one after the other, whilst Littledale and to the rock with

The

where perpendicular

and the rocks prevented an inland

careful inspection,

6 a.m.

we soon caught them

river,

gradually growing narrower

with sheer

of any sort.

off again at

Littledales started before us, but at a

men.

surrounding

the

game

the

a

and afforded

fly,

life,

country seemed entirely void of

path,

returned to

with sixty fish, averaging three-quarters of

pound,

up

hungry as our

we

one hand and held tight

I

clung

to the rope

with the other, thus seeing the horses round to a safe landing-place.

There was hardly any

foothold,

and we

several times just missed an involuntary bath.

Some

of the horses, on being pushed into the stream

by our

men, refused energetically so violently that their

to advance,

packs came

and struggled

off,

occasioning


AFTER WILD SHEEP

210

double work

THE ALTAI

IN

A

reloading them.

in

swimming one

of the rope while

the latter was immediately carried

Kalmuk

lost

hold

of the ponies,

and

away down

stream,

and eventually secured some hundreds of yards lower

my

down, with

wardrobe thoroughly drenched.

It

took us over three hours to get the whole caravan on the other side, and straits

would ever

We

pitched

we

that no similar

befall us again.

camp

a few miles higher up, on the

banks of the Kobdo, feet,

hoped

fervently

after a short but

at

an altitude of about 7,000

exciting march.

The

valley

was now much narrower, and woods were growing scarcer.

Now

and

we

then, at turnings of the river,

could catch an occasional glimpse of shining, snowclad peaks far ahead of us, the sight of which

our hearts beat quicker. before

us,

prevent

made

Yet we knew not what

and insurmountable obstacles might

us

destination.

one hundred the demitcka,

from

reaching

Towards fish,

evening"

sought

for

we returned with over

which we proceeded to hand over

whose duty

fairly as possible

our eagerly

lay still

it

was

to distribute

amongst our Kalmuks.

them

to

as

Here again

a misunderstanding took place, presumably owing to favouritism on his part, and

threatened to leave

upon

us, for

us.

we knew

some

of the caravan

men

This, however, had no effect that,

besides running short

ol


KIRGHIZ "SLIMNESS" food, they

would have

to find their

211

way back

alone,

which was no easy matter, having advanced so

unknown

into

upon them as Just as

country,

and these

forcibly as

we were

sitting"

we

facts

could.

down

to our frugal

evening

meal Nicholas came up, saying that two Kirghiz

had been sighted, and were riding

We

far

we impressed

in

men

our direction.

decided to seize the opportunity and secure them

But we were doomed

as guides.

Kirghiz

for

" slimness "

remains

The two men

Asiatic tribes.

to disappointment,

among

unrivalled

presently

came up

to

our tent, and appeared frightened at our presence.

The the

striking feature of their tall,

long,

costume was undoubtedly

red heels of their top-boots, fully four inches

which showed that

ride than

to

walk.

it

was more

They wore and low

lined with sheepskin,

their habit to

long, greasy frocks,

fur caps.

Their faces

bore an expression of astonishment, though their eyes

betrayed

When we

cunning.

explained

to

them

through our interpreter that we wanted them to ac-

company

us

to

Muss-Taou

the

hills,

they

flatly

declined to do anything of the kind, saying that they

had pressing business far

out of their

way

to attend to, ;

and that

it

was too

whereupon we gave them

to

understand that their services would be handsomely

rewarded by

us.

This, of course, led

them

to

suppose


AFTER WILD SHEEP

2i2

that

wc

IN

THE ALTAI

could not do without them, and they suggested

might perhaps be tempted by such

that they

the interview

by

telling

them

that

at the

head of the

we had

ascertained from

there were large herds of valley.

Kirghiz sheep

This was our

first

meeting

with representatives of the Kirghiz tribe, and

we found them

that

had as yet come

Kalmuks in

across.

No wonder

must

the

wretched

We

them

ascertained afterwards

two men had returned

that the

I

be the cleverest race we

to

are afraid of their influence, and avoid

every possible way.

to

them they were no longer

wanted, though not before

own

ridicu-

wages that we forthwith put an end

lously high

late

the evening,

in

having agreed to our conditions, but that they had met with a spiteful reception on the part of our Kalmuks,

whose

On and

sole

aim was

to prevent our advance.

the following morning

after

we made an

early start,

an hour's march reached the junction of the

Kobdo River were now

in

with

its

tributary the Sumdairik.

We

an awkward dilemma, and had to con-

sider

whether we would continue our journey up the

main

river,

whose

consequently or turn

valley

difficult

to

was becoming narrower and negotiate with pack-ponies,

up the Sumdairik stream where

eoinoo> and, makingo a dttour,'Jjoin the

fc>

sources.

Our

caravan

men

only

it

was easy

Kobdo answered

at its

our


A DISCOVERY

213

questions by their usual negative expressions of "Iok" "

and

some

Be/dess" (" No," and hesitation

we

"

chose

I

do not know"). the

we advanced a few Chinese

soldier,

as a guide,

we were

;

proceeded

to

across a

"commandeer"

and who announced the pleasant

in the vicinity of

a karaott/.

had

for hardly

when we came

miles,

whom we

alternative,

latter

which, fortunately, proved a success

After

fact that

Although scared

by the number of strange faces round him, he undertook to accompany us to the Chinese post, which took us scarcely an hour to reach.

which we followed

Sumdairik,

The

for a

few miles,

sembled, like that of the Suok, a broad, than

The ground

it

valley of the

fiat

re-

steppe

places

was

white with Edelweiss flowers under our horses'

feet,

rather

elsewhere hills

it

a valley.

was sandy and

barren.

at

Low

undulating

rose on either side and joined at the head of the

stream, forming an amphitheatre, covered with larch

woods, at the bottom of which stood, sheltered on all

sides,

half

large lake.

a

dozen dirty yourts above a

This was indeed a discovery,

entirely ignored both the

of

the

the yourts was others,

and,

karaoul and the

usual,

conspicuous

yellow flags fixed into a palisade round evidently the head

official's

fairly

my map

lake.

One

cleaner and larger than

slightly

as

for

abode.

it.

by several This was

As we passed

the


2i 4

AFTER WILD SHEEP

karaoul

all

THE ALTAI

the inhabitants, fifteen or twenty

women, rushed out

in their

We

pitched

new-comers. carefully

IN

men and

rags to have a look at the

our camp,

after

having

chosen our ground, a couple of hundred

yards above the Chinese post, at an altitude of 7,900

The Kha soon appeared

feet.

bade us welcome

man

than the

;

with his escort and

he seemed a much

less

important

Suok Governor, being adorned with

few coral beads on his cap, but no peacock feather.

He

asked

for

our passports, which he was apparently

unable

to

perusal

to his clerk,

read,

for

a pleasant smile.

he handed them over without

who

returned them to us with

Educated Chinese clerks naturally

acquire great influence over their village, and practically rule the country,

exacting

tributes from

illegal

the wretched Mongols, and often sharing the spoils "

with at

His Excellency the Governor."

this

karaoul was much more willing

The

official

to help

us,

probably owing to his more humble condition, and

we were soon surrounding

and who was

who knew

to

the

to act as our guide,

moderate fee of eight roubles per month.

at the

came

supplied with a native

hills,

He

our tents in the afternoon, and we learnt

from him that wild sheep were by no means numerous

on

the

Muss-Taou

the country round

range,

and that he considered

Lake Dain-Kol

to be

much

richer


OUR DECISION in

rame.

ing

attractive to the

Kol

Yet the grounds we had been endeavour-

reach

to

for

from

the

week seemed

last

that

afar,

we decided

head of the river Kobdo.

district,

southern the bad

it

As

to

to

direction,

that

condition of

for the

taking

into

our ponies and

we deemed

us

so

march on

was so much out of our way,

opposition of our Kalmuks, in

215

Dainin

a

consideration the it

constant advisable,

case of failure on the Muss-Taou, to shift north-

wards and carefully explore the spurs of the

Altai,

between the sources of the Tchagan-Kol River and the Siberian frontier.

In addition to our

new

L>uide


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

216

the

Kha

sent us on the following morning, as

proceeding to of

lift

camp, one of

his soldiers as a

This Chinaman was clad

honour.

we were

in

guard

a bright

yellow frock with a patch of embroidered white silk

sewn

in

made

us give

to

it

both on his breast and back, which

him the nickname of

"

the target."

He

proved of no use whatever, and, having accompanied us half-way to the

Kobdo

lakes,

with gratitude to his native post.

we

sent him back


CHAPTER

VI.

— Lakes — Fishing — Muss-Taou — Nicholas sent for Sheep — Sumdairik

Sources of Kobdo River

northwards

Meat

at

— Fresh

last

Ponies expected

at

Hills

— Journey

River

Tchagan

-

Camp

Kol River

of July — No Sport — Fresh Ponies and Men arrive — Moraine of old Glacier— Crossing the Tchagan-Kol back — Camps — Snowstorm — Littledale finds Wild Sheep — Joseph sent for Stores — Olonur Valley — Snow— July 23rd — Shooting— Game at — Antelope — First sight of Ibex (Capra Sibirica)—'$XaS&s> with Taba — Littledale brings a good Ram — Meeting with Zaissan

March on 16th More Marches

last

in

Semion and Kirghiz

We en

left

rotitc

Chief.

the karaoul on for

the

Muss-Taou

the

morning of July 13th Hills.

As

usual

we

were delayed by Kalmuk recriminations respecting the

and

ponies,

were ready

was not

it

to start.

till

7.30 a.m.

Our new Mongol

that

guide,

we

whose

shabby appearance might conceal, as we hoped, a thorough knowledge of the country, took the lead of our caravan, and

after a

long ascent

we found

ourselves at the top of a pass about 8,500 feet high,

from

which

a

magnificent

view

presented

itself.

Beneath us lay two lakes whose waters were joined by a broad

river,

the

Kobdo, the sources of which 217


AFTER WILD SHEEP

218

were now before

much

I

do

what

to

With regard

miles.

fifteen

cannot

regions

these

visited

to

me

to

the

thought was

I

two lakes

to these

quote

than

better

from

passage

a

This well-known

Lieutenant Kozloff's observations. explorer

seemed

lake

had expected, according-

I

map, stretching westwards over

THE ALTAI

The upper

us.

larger than

IN

the

year

our

after

journey (1898) on his way to the Lob-Nor, and his account, which

was read

a meeting of the Russian

at

Geographical Society on November 22nd, the notes

then took there

I

spot where the

My

"

:

Kobdo River forms two

on the banks of which there are

The

encampments.

elongated

irregular

came

party

Kirghiz

2z>

the

it

fifteen islands, of

miles

long.

lake

supposed

to

width

4

its

From

the

distinguish of us,

be;

The upper

lake

proved much its

miles;

pass

length its

is

is

larger

to

wide.

feet

than

it

was

about 16% miles and 18

fathoms."

where we stood we could in

2

connected with

depth attains

Lake Dain-Kol

There

which some are from

by a rapid watercourse 420

lower

The upper

from

miles

east to west, with a width of about 5^ miles.

are in

an

has

lake

10

stretching

to the

small lakes,

several

Kobdo

lower form,

with

tallies

plainly

the distance due south

and on the opposite side of the two Kobdo

lakes ran the snowclad

Muss-Taou ranee from

north-


west to south-east. at

lakes,

and found

it

219

Towards noon we reached

the

the place where

river,

of

A DEBATE

implied a

it

still

it

Hows between the two

so wide and deep that the crossing

more

serious undertaking than that

OUR NEW DEMITCHA AND MEN.

We

of the Tchagan-Kol.

camp on debate

in

presented

this

side

therefore decided to pitch

of the watercourse and

the afternoon on the itself.

The

first

hold a

dilemma which now

question to elucidate was

the presence of wild sheep in those mountains, which fact could

only be ascertained from our

new Mongol


2

AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

2o

guide, who, alone of the whole caravan, to

had him

called

up and interrogated him on the subject

through our Russian and Kalmuk

answer

to our inquiries

two months

in

was supposed

Accordingly we

have ever visited those regions.

those

interpreters.

In

he said that he had spent over

hills

catching Marmots, of which

he had found great numbers, but that he had never

come

across

any kotchkor (wild sheep),

habited the eastern spurs beyond

which

in-

Dain-Kol, where

he thought we should be likely to get sport.

These

statements, though perhaps untrustworthy, materially

We

had now advanced

changed the aspect of

affairs.

so far into Mongolia,

overcome numerous

difficulties,

kept our Kalmuks constantly on the march merely

by promises of a permanent camp

—

this with

all

the

sole

view of exploring the Muss-Taou range, and now

that

we were

that

it

within a few miles of

was useless

to attempt

it.

it,

we discovered

Moreover, the

themselves did not

now seem

from a distance.

Their slopes were covered

hills

so attractive as they did

with

pine and larch woods, and the rocks above appeared to

be more suited to Ibex than to Sheep, for no grassy

rolling knolls so attractive to the latter could be seen

through our telescopes.

The Dain-Kol

entirely out of the question. to the south,

It

district

was

was out of our way

and would mean another month through


OUR INTENTION ABANDONED where

a country

with home-sick to

we

all this

it

was doubtful

winter

In addition

snowed

into

in

by the

Siberia,

and a

Chinese kai'aoul was by no means a

a

in

there were sheep,

ponies.

ran the risk of being

up of the passes back

closing-

if

men and worn-out

221

We

pleasant prospect.

also intended to devote the

end of August and part of September Maral and Roe-deer

in

to shooting

wooded regions

the

Altai before returning to Europe.

of the

we had

Besides,

run short of meat, and were obliged that very evening to

Nicholas and another

send

man

to

Kirghiz

encampments on the shores

lake

order

in

other

exploring

knew

of first-rate ground

Looking back, circumstances

would

when

native

have the

for

detailed

I

Taba

original intentions ;

regret

on the

moment

hardly

worth

Ibex.

on the

our

mentioning.

arrived for decision

we

that

faith of

for the other difficulties in

been

us

told

Sheep and

now

and

range,

after a period of three years,

here

abandoned our

unknown

These and

Muss-Taou

long-coveted

the

upper

abandon our idea of

to

our attention northwards, where

turn

he

buy a dozen sheep.

to

induced us

reasons

one of the

of the

we

all

an

way But felt,

unequipped as we were, that further advance would be

foolish.

natives

Great were the rejoicings amongst our

when they

learnt

that

on the morrow we


222

AFTER WILD SHEEP

should

be

was forgotten

all

The evening

THE ALTAI Siberian

the

vent to regret for so

much

vain and so

in

towards

heading

They never gave

IN

many marches

precious time lost

we had

!

was

of that day, which

if

lit

landscape

The

up by thousands of sparks

many diamond

whilst

prisms,

the

the loveliest

in the rays of the setting sun.

through as

be

to

The whole

as yet experienced.

glittered as

a second

in

;

culminating point of our expedition, was

was bathed

frontier.

lakes

reflected

the

hills

opposite slowly changed their colour from bright red to

with

lilac-grey,

intermediate

countless

the sun gradually descended behind them.

hues,

as

Presently

the rosy tops alone were visible, whilst the lakes below

had long ago put out

waves were

rolling

Before dinner

some

we

fine

we

in

before a strong west

tried our luck fishing,

Grayling, averaging

fed the whole caravan.

Nicholas

was

and the dark blue

their lights,

despatched,

i^

As

I

lbs.,

with

which

have said before,

together

guide, to purchase sheep from the

wind.

and caught

with

the

new

Kirghiz tribes

in

the neighbourhood, and with strict orders to join us

beyond the karaoul on the Sumdairik River, where

we intended

to

camp.

following day (July

search of <>ame.

Early

14th)

we

in

the morning of the

started northwards in

Tents were struck with the utmost


NICHOLAS RETURNS now

celerity

the

that

The weather was

knew

we

were

"home, sweet home."

towards

our steps

retracing

Kalmuks

223

bright and

fine,

though a perpetual

stopped blowing.

We

passed the karaoul without calling at the Kha's

yoiirt,

wind from the west never

and followed the the low saddle

bank of the

left

we descended

lake.

Then

crossing

into the valley of the

Sumdairik,* and pitched camp close to the stream at

1

march of twenty

p.m., after a

Here we

miles.

decided nolens volens to give our ponies a

clay's

rest.

Most of them were exhausted by constant marches, and the place we had chosen an attractive one, Fishing

was

afternoon

we

in

in the

our

for

occupation

killed

camp was

as

and

usual,

over eighty Grayling.

stone

of

deep

beautiful

Fish

rose

to

apparently

During

a

the

midstream formed

in

which

pools,

any

fly

without

combination

with

Nicholas

night

which he had bought

sheep,

kopecks apiece (about

some

afforded

difficulty in

* This

is

natives call

the it

five

that

The water

the river was clear and the current strong

blocks

quite

shade of a small larch wood.

at

large

;

intervals

capital

sport.

though

distinction,

red was preferable.

returned for

with

twelve

two roubles

shillings).

He

fifty

had had

finding us, and, being in a hurry

name given

" Kara-Adyr.'"'

to the river

by the Russian Survey.

The


AFTER WILD SHEEP

224

IN

THE ALTAI

had been on the move

to overtake us,

consecutive hours.

We

for

over thirty

remained the whole of the

next day on the Kara-Adyr (Sumdairik), and started only on the morning of the

16th.

wild sheep country.

I

was a most

It

march

and monotonous

uninteresting

in

search

of

kept consulting our guide as

to the

whereabouts of game, but met with the constant

reply

of

kotchkor

followed for

some time the

and, having

River,

We

the right.

(no

iok

That day we

rams).

left

bank of the Kara-Adyr

gone a few

miles,

turned off to

now began advancing through

higher

ground and barren, rocky tableland, where the only

wife, to

our amazement, gave us a

marksmanship,

Here my

were Marmots and Hares.

living creatures

brilliant display of

Hare

for she killed a

at eighty yards

with Littledale's Mannlicher, the betting being twenty to

one against

her.

We

our way.

This was the only incident on

crossed two passes,

reached

a valley, at the

a row

of

haunts.

high

We

and

at

i

p.m.

head of which we discovered

ridges

westwards

and

therefore decided to pitch

likely

camp

ibex

at that

place and investigate the surroundings on the follow-

ing

day,

notwithstanding

statement that

we should

our

guide's

find nothing.

peremptory

We

had now

been many a day without the chance of a

and our bloodthirsty

instincts

shot,

were again roused by


A FRESH LOT OF PONIES

We

the sight of favourable grounds.

next

morning,

realised.

nullah,

and myself,

Littledale

different directions

;

at

and spied miles of country around

THE DEMITCHA,

IN

finding a single animal of I

thoroughly

any kind

till

I

valley

;

then,

Here

we had despatched

Kalmuks back towards

me

without

crossing

similar result in

finally

disheartened.

twenty-five fresh ponies awaiting us.

Q

in

THE BASHKAOUS VALLEY.

met with a

the next valley, and so on

Kobdo

4 a.m.,

but our guide's words were to be

another dividing ridge,

the

started early

ascended the stony slopes of a small

I

JACOB,

camp

225

returned to

we

found

Before entering a couple of our

the frontier, in order to meet


AFTER WILD SHEEP

226

IN

THE ALTAI

which we expected, and direct them

the ponies

their destination,

Kol River.

Before parting with us these two

had refused

to start without arms, saying that

might have

to

Hearing

the

my

this

was stupid enough

I

When we

big revolver.

men and

lost their

that both

we

naturally

way, and, a few days

commissioned one of our hunters

wherever they might

The

be.

to

saw

ponies failed to turn up,

thought that they had later,

men

"they

defend themselves against natives and

wild beasts."

lend them

to

which was the head of the Tchagan-

latter

to find them,

had now joined

us with the fresh lot of ponies, and reported that he

had come across them wandering somewhere about the

Suok Steppe

;

he had also met the two armed

Kalmuks, who declared

him that they were going

to

back to their homes, carrying as a souvenir Littledale

off

my

precious weapon

!

came

in at

about three

in the afternoon,

reporting that he had seen nothing but tracks of Ibex

on very

likely

ground.

fie thought

it

was hardly

worth while remaining at that place, and suggested a start for the morrow, especially as better

Taba promised

ground within a comparatively short

That same day a very

fine

head was picked

measuring 60 inches along the curve by in

circumference at base.

distance.

19J,

up,

inches


AN EASY FORD

We

camp on

struck

and went stream

the following morning at 7 a.m.

some time down the

for

great service to us now, and

long march of

On

it.

valley of a small

Fresh ponies were of

a northern direction.

in

227

we decided

to

make

a

we passed through

our way

a deserted place covered with odd -shaped rounded stones,

which we took

We

glacier.

be the moraine of an old

to

on our way a

also passed

fairly

large

lake which had probably once been about ten times the size, for water-line lakes

well-defined

will

could plainly distinguish the former

Asia, and

in

appear

we

on the surrounding

to

especially

above

line

become reduced

their

Tibet, have

present

level

away, and

drying

be gradually

Most of the

hills.

in

;

in

that

they time

Towards midday

to small pools.

our caravan reached the broad valley of the Tchagan-

Kol River, which we now had

to cross

many

miles

above the place where we had had such trouble during

Here there was an easy

our journey up the Kobdo. ford it

its

;

waters were as milky and dirty as below, and

was hardly 150

forded the river of the tate

wide at

fine

Tchagan-Kol came

this

place.

in sight

As we

at the

head

and made us

hesi-

snowclad peaks

whether we should not march up the stream

towards the sport.

feet

some

hills,

which looked as

\Ye inquired about

it

if

they might afford

from our new guide, who


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

228

answered decisively that there were no sheep about there, so

we continued our journey northwards

having crossed the main its

small tributaries along a narrow ravine with high

banks on either

camp

pitched

side, and,

We

were

off

main

Muss-Taou

still

heading northwards range,

pass into loftier ground. of that afternoon, and

we

the

pitched

camp on

On

The end

kind.

march cheered us up a

the plateau

our way

little,

for,

as

we

we saw of

heads of sheep strewed the ground, and

we had

place where

we had

yourts,

new

struck a

pitched

vein.

it

many

all

on our approach, and morning.

We

camp stood two at

dirty

the

disappeared behind the rocks did

not

reappear

decided that night that

early next day, Littledale to the north

seemed

Close to the

whose inhabitants were so frightened

sight of us that they

that

entered

a narrow valley with a small lake in the middle,

possible that

high

fairly

rained almost the whole

feet.

larger

at

parallel to the

and crossed a It

an altitude of 8,400

day's

fine

hot.

7 a.m.,

of

still

again next day, starting as usual

about

Antelope

having gone up a few miles,

The weather was

at 3 p.m.

and exceedingly

at

and,

began ascending one of

river,

and

I,

until

we should

next start

to try our fortune, for

and north-west rose high mountains and

grassy rolling boulders which

we had

not seen for


;

A SNOWSTORM

Here grumbling began again amongst

a long- time.

our Kalmuks,

they

who

threatened to

probably been

had

229

march next day

discouraged

bad

by the

and especially by the cold that suddenly

weather,

came on during the

night, for

when we awoke next

morning the ground was covered with three inches of snow.

"HEADS OF

SHKKI'

Next morning, July threats,

we

started

different directions. 3 a.m. that there

strewed the ground."

20th, notwithstanding the men's

at

7

a.m.,

Littledale

The snowstorm was

I,

in

so strong at

was no question of leaving camp.

The wind was blowing

a gale from the south-west,

and as might have been expected, afternoon

and

I

returned

in

the

without having seen even tracks of any


AFTER WILD SHEEP

2 3o

kind.

THE ALTAI

IN

was thoroughly damped and numbed by

I

in

head of a

Littledale brought in the

valley.

cold,

a very severe snowstorm at the

having been caught

meat of

a young ram which he had killed for the pot.

He

had seen two or three young ones, but no good

old

males had

come

in

From

sight.

which had prevailed during the

we

lower country

again as

felt

We

middle of winter.

the intense heat

few days

last

we were

if

now decided

in

the

in

the

on the

to start

Kosh-Agatch

next morning, having sent Joseph to

with a letter to our friend the Zaissan Semion, asking

him

to supply us with fresh

men, horses, and sheep

at

a place which we thought would be a permanent

camp, and where Taba now promised we should get

Joseph was also

good shooting. of which

we were running

self to

to

know

back

day's march, but

known

We

guide us towards success.

and camped

at the

Kalmuks

to the

head of which Chinese divide.

is

marched down

the

we

Siberian

bottom of a wide valley

as the Olonur Valley, at the

Nam Daba

Apparently on our

camped on was the Karaimaty. drenched, as

Taba

the way, and took upon him-

the valley, turning westwards towards the frontier,

stores,

Constant rain and

short.

snow accompanied us our whole seemed now

to bring

pitched

camp

at

Pass, the Russo-

map

We 11

the river

were

a.m., rain

we

fairly

and


START WITH RENEWED SPIRITS

an altitude of about 8,200

of

front

not far

away with

revelation to us,

now

the sky-line

as the

showed a much greater

new ground on

we were

search of us

in

and ten men.

forty fresh horses

also intimated that

march of Kosh-Agatch.

our

at

we

These men presently came up and

lis.

informed us that the Zaissan was

They

were now

In the afternoon

feet.

men on horseback on

caught sight of two in

We

never ceasing the whole day.

sleet

231

within two days'

news was quite a

This

map upon which we

We

distance.

relied

intended to try

the following day, but another

snowstorm during the night prevented us from doing so,

though we were now very anxious

new country round

us, especially as

to explore the

Taba appeared

to

be so confident.

We

spent the whole of July 22nd waiting for the

weather to clear up

and fishing

in

;

but

it

was

to

be another

lost day,

a small lake a couple of miles below

camp was our only

occupation.

Towards evening the

weather improved, and next morning, July 23rd, we

were awoke

at 3 a.m.

different

and started

directions,

spirits

in

ground

to the west of our

uphill with

Littledale

camp, whilst

east towards the Siberian frontier.

accompanied

me.

ground

well,

fairly

I

renewed

taking

the

went north-

Taba, as usual,

He now seemed and conducted me

to

know

the

up the valley


AFTER WILD SHEEP

232

for

some

time,

THE ALTAI

IN

when turning north we ascended the

long grassy slope

till

we reached

a series of plateatix

with rolling boulders here and there, separated from

Snowy peaks

each other by deep ravines. seen

could be

the distance before us, as well as westwards

in

where Littledale had gone, and where the ground appeared higher than where we stood. animal came

in

As we advanced along

lopes.

At

first

no

sight but a herd of the larger ante-

these

fine

pasture

grounds the valleys became deeper and rocks more frequent

till,

some very

in

likely

From

Ibex ground.

plainly distinguish the hills dividing

and which, according

to

my

the southern slopes of the place where

we reached

about a couple of hours,

could

I

were most probably

idea,

Happy

we now stood we

here

two great empires

Valley.

could

From

command

over a large stretch of broken country, and

the

a view

soon

I

discovered, on the opposite slopes, nine or ten small

brown

patches, which

I

at first

took for wild sheep,

but which, examined through the glasses, appeared to be a herd of

Ibex feeding about a mile away from

There were

us.

six

heads amongst them. our

side,

ddtour I

in

it

small

males

and three good

There being no

shelter from

was a question of making a very long

order to get the chance

was very keen

to

of

a shot

secure a specimen

or

;

but

two of


FULL SIGHT OF OUR PREY

IN

Capra

we decided

Sibirica, so

233

to attempt the stalk.

We

retraced our steps, and, leaving the ponies with

the

other

Kalmuks,

I

Taba towards

with

started

we thought

a range of steep crags, amongst which

we might advance very

and

difficult,

in safety it

;

but the ground became

was a long job

to reach the other

side of the valley, for there

was many a deep ravine

between us and the rocky

ridge,

were exceedingly

Loose stones were being

steep.

continually displaced by us,

on

my

shoes were

hour's in

After

time.

while the ascents

and the india-rubber

worn out

fairly

many

than an

we succeeded

covering the ground between us and the rocks,

but here our real difficulties began. to

less

in

a scramble

soles

on the top of the

rest

We

sat

down

and spied another

ridge,

herd of Ibex, females and young ones this time, over seventy

in

number,

a mile below

us.

at the

bottom of the valley about

Leaving them

to

our right, we

went down the crags which from the top seemed quite inaccessible,

prey,

we

but,

being

in

full

sight of our coveted

could not possibly follow the ridge, which

would have been much easier work. yards below

it,

after very careful

we found we were

out of sight, but here again numer-

ous long and steep snow

Some

of

them

About a hundred

and dangerous going,

-

slides

had

to

be crossed.

were fairly wide, and the

snow was


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

234 still

hard from the previous night's

frost,

so that there

was no other means of getting across them but

to

take a long run and negotiate them by the strength of the impulse, landing on the other side or sixty yards

were

Some

below.

of these

twenty yards wide,

fairly

and

below was by no means a cheering

Taba was

not to

be stopped

by

tation

making me wait before the

that

been

formed

round

Little

and several us,

my

hesi-

decisive rush.

some yards below long smooth

had

precipice

sight.

some places the snow had given way, and tinguish

fifty

snow - shoots the

this,

times one of these snow-slides divided

some

the

I

In

could dis-

ice cylinders

trickling

water,

whose hollow murmur might have given a shudder

At

to the bravest mountaineer.

way under our

did not give to get over feet

all

feet,

events the snow

and we managed

the disagreeable passages with bruised

and torn rubber

soles.

Another half-hour up

a steep slope, covered with sharp-edged stones and shingle,

valley

brought us to a low pass leading into the

where our Ibex had been spied by

within about 400 yards of where

them slope

feeding. that

stretched

hiding-places,

we should

Here we

halted to

itself

we had rest.

being

us,

last

The

seen

grassy

before us contained few

and the question now arose whether

wait for the animals to

come towards

us


THE

ASIATIC IBEX.

(Capra Silnrka.)



A SUCCESSFUL STALK

237

and hide under shelter of the rocks of the day (which

was the most

the middle

in

likely alternative),

The wind

or to advance as cautiously as possible. being- steady,

We

chose the latter course.

I

had now

been about one and a half hours out of sight of the herd, this

and

it

was quite presumable that they had by

time shifted.

behind,

I

Instructing

started creeping

Taba

soon found myself within what

Two

ing range of the Ibex.

to

keep a few yards

up the grassy

and very

slope,

thought was shoot-

I

more

or three minutes'

creeping, and a fine pair of horns

showed before me

on the sky-line

had noticed from

at

200 yards.

I

the opposite side of the valley that one of the old

bucks was much lighter than the others, and carried a I

somewhat intended,

finer head, so if

naturally

I

could not judge to which of the

three they belonged, but when, a

me

owner got up and gave although not

it

refrain

200 yards

was not

was the one

Seeing now only

possible, to secure.

a pair of horns,

it

my

moment

later, their

broadside

a

chance,

light-coloured friend,

from taking

my

shot.

sight,

and drawing

rolled

him

it

I

Putting up

Jumping up

fired

and

I

just

caught sight of them pelting downhill

lii_>-htninL>-,

but

and

fired

missed him.

the

as fine as possible,

I

over.

could

in

a second, like

a second time at the lighter one

When

they had

all

disappeared


AFTER WILD SHEEP

238

behind a ridge,

we went up

found him to be a very inches along

38 the

the

fair

IN

THE ALTAI and

to see our quarry,

buck, his horns measuring

by

curve

10 inches

girth,

in

wide spread of his horns giving them a larger

appearance

at

reached the

Rewarded

a distance.

my

was indeed

first

Kobdo

successful

at last

This

!

day since we had

River, and both Littledale and

The horns seemed

me

I

had yearned

for

resemble

every way those of a Cashmere Ibex.

On I

in

a shot.

inquiring of

Taba about

to

their comparative

to

size,

understood him to say that he had seen much larger

ones

in the district, so that there is

that they run to fifty inches little

hunter would have

more of them before we Ibex and

left

it

and more that

My

in length.

we should

see

many

Having grallocked our

left.

him with the

every probability

ponies,

we went on

in

the

direction of camp.

The

country being

still

favourable

for

game we

kept on the look-out, but saw no signs of animals of any kind nullah,

till

we reached

the bottom of a deep

where Taba suddenly spotted two or three

Ibex on the top of a ridge to our still

early

in

the

left.

As

it

was

day another stalk was imminent.

Circumventing the ridge on which we had located the animals, I,

in

we found

ourselves presently,

Taba and

a small corrie about 600 yards long, up which


A HERD OF SIXTY RAMS we had

and as

fifty

was

I

yards

front

in

waiting,

coming towards me but unluckily

;

walked very

my

carelessly took

I

of the beast in

1

This took us nearly an hour,

reaching the plateau

just

pair of horns

of breath, having

I

saw him

sight,

he

next

found that

I

whom

and instead of

shot at the only part

and naturally missed.

was

rushing

my

was

this

had already missed

I

suddenly

I

at less than

was quite out

I

fast,

When some

downhill

my amazement

50 yards below me, and great was

when

which

to toil in order to face the direction in

the Ibex were heading.

saw a

239

light-coated

As

before.

friend

well

as

I

could judge, his horns must have measured well over forty

inches.

sight

of,

I

His companion,

We

down

sat

at

just

caught

came up with

presently

this

5

performance, so was

to wait for the ponies, which

the head of the

remounting we started back tents at

I

was a young buck hardly worth shooting.

was much disgusted

Taba.

whom

for

Curiously enough

p.m.

Ibex,

and

camp, reaching the Littledale

came

back almost simultaneously, bringing with him the head of a 19]

ram

fair

girth).

He

told

a herd of sixty rams,

and another

lot

herds of rams

inches along the curve by

(51

us

of fifteen.

we had

that he

almost

all

had come across with good heads,

These were the

as vet seen,

largest

and we decided


AFTER WILD SHEEP

2 4o

that

this

THE ALTAI

camp should be a permanent

being plentiful I

IN

in

one,

game

my

return

the neighbourhood.

found our caravan greatly increased on

by the

arrival of the Zaissan

horses and a dozen

were

to replace our

him a Khirghiz

Semion with

Kalmuks with a

He

men.

forty fresh

who

demitcha,

had also brought with

Abduldho by name, whose

chief,

appearance and stately looks made a great

martial

impression upon our Kalmuks.

In token of friend-

ship he had brought us thirteen sheep as a present,

and

told

us

stories of his

and autocratic

through

our interpreter

nomadic

life.

He

many

quaint

was the hereditary

ruler over about a thousand

Kirghiz,

and owned immense numbers of horses, sheep, and

He

cattle.

rule

had been

and a vassal

for years past

of

the

no suitable ground

finding

under Chinese

Chinese for his

Emperor,

but

purpose on the

he had shifted quarters and settled

Celestial

side,

down on

Siberian territory, having sent in a petition

to the

Russian authorities with a view to becoming

a subject

presence

of

the

Czar.

was not wanted

Apparently, in

Russia,

however, for

not

was there no answer forthcoming from the governor, but

orders had

been given

to

turn

his

only Altai

him

out of Russian territory, where constant frictions took place between his Kirghiz and the native Kalmuks.


THE ZAISSAN SEMION

He now

me

applied to

do nothing

to

for protection.

whom seemed

we

till

and handy

very useful

We

the

difficult one, for

Kirghiz

he

Khan

now found

found the

was naturally a very

himself in the dilemma

which was hardly possible

either of returning to China,

under the circumstances, or of remaining

where he time

As

was not

wanted. has

question

the for

very high

spirits as

usual,

Kalmuks with great

He

Mongols that to

us

told

that

that

all

been settled

him hurry see that

of

represented

territory.

and

joy

to

in

deference.

some

from

for the

This news, he

stray

not

him.

in

He

such

straits

fortnight

past

said,

search of us, and he was

we were

day's success,

be

to

our horses had died on the way, and

foot.

in

in

this

favour.

his

he seemed

learnt

we had been compelled

march on

by

and was received by our

signs

he had

Siberia,

in

that

trust

I

Semion,

Zaissan

the

The

way.

every

in

we asked

that

returned to Kosh-

Agatch, to which he readily agreed.

position of

He

of his subjects,

so intelligent

keep him

his permission to

man

could

I

General Boldyreff at Barnaoul.

had brought over with him several one of

said

I

excepting to hand over the paper

for him,

me

he gave

241

had made

now as

glad to

had been

complimented us on our

and warmly welcomed us back

The men he had

into his

brought, he said, were


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

242

thoroughly

reliable,

and

demitcha

the

he promised

would be more energetic, and keep the men order

He

than

said he

day,

his

meet us to his

would go

duties at

in better

one he had granted us previously.

the

to his

calling

home on

the following-

him back, but promised

to

Kosh-Agatch, and thence accompany us

house on the Oulagan River, where he promised

us CTood Maral shooting.

We

refrained from reporting to the Zaissan about

the constant grumbling that had taken place

our Kalmuks, but told him of the two

He

amongst

men who had

gone away with

my

into the matter,

and said that we should now have

no more trouble.

revolver.

We

parted

promised

with

our

to look

men

that

evening, and promised the Kirghiz chief to

visit his

encampment on our way home, upon which

the two

chiefs

bade us

As we

sat

farewell.

down

to dinner in

high

over the day's events, and turned to

make

morning-.

spirits in

we

talked

early in order

a start as usual at 3 a.m. on the following


CHAPTER

VII.

Camp — Stalking Sheep — Weather-beaten

Olonur found

— Lake

Valley

— Hares

Brahminy

and

horns

Geese

Maral

of

seen

— Joseph

Stores— My Wife goes out Stalking— Littledale's Record

returns with

Head— Thunderstorms — Taba's successful Ruse

wound

I

a

fine

— Unsuccessful

Ram— We

Pursuit— Our

Camp

shift

Camp

under the

— Stampede of the Pack-horses— A good Stalk on — Shift Camp over Frontier— More Stalking — The Tarkhaty River — Kirghiz Encampment with great Herds of Horses — get a good Ibex — Return to Camp on the Tchagan-Burgaza River. Nam Daba

August

Pass

2nd

I

Early on July 24th Cristo with the

good

I

tidings that the weather

We

and that the ponies were saddled. started,

Littledale

my

was awakened by

and

I,

towards the sheep-ground which

was

sufficient

room

for

both

of

fine

breakfast,

my companion

inspected on the previous day, and where there

was

accordingly

hasty

a

after

faithful

had

we found

us.

I

was

anxious to get a glimpse at the herd of sixty rams

which Littledale had seen, and perhaps get a shot at a fine old patriarch. fully

my

avoiding

me

Wild sheep had been

for the previous three weeks,

eager anticipation of sport

stood.

From camp we

rode 243

may down

care-

and

be readily underthe main valley


AFTER WILD SHEEP

244

we reached

till

IN

THE ALTAI we

a lateral one, into which

entered.

Great numbers of sheep's skulls strewed the ground, especially under

a

mass of precipitous

rocks,

close

which we passed, and where apparently a regular

to

The

slaughter of wild sheep had taken place.

valley

through which we were passing was bordered on either

by

side

grassy boulders, with

low,

rocky pinnacles

here and there, the whole place appearing to afford a capital winter resort for the animals which were

probably

on the higher ground just perceptible

still

front of us.

in

stream trickled ing

little

ponies

This was our destination.

down

swamps here and

had

to

A

small

the middle of the valley, formthere, through

About a couple

wade.

brought us to a place where we separated

which our of

hours

in different

directions, Littledale taking the country south, whilst I

turned to the right up an easy slope northwards.

Old weather-beaten fragments of horns of the Maral lay

on the ground

in

some

These stags

quantity.

had probably frequented the country years ago, and, living in

such a timberless region, were easily shot

down by

the merciless natives.

ridge,

we came

in

sight

broader than the one small

lakes

glittering

we had in

On

reaching a low

of a parallel just

the

left,

middle

valley,

rather

with numerous of

it.

The

pastures here were as good as could be desired, and


NOT AN ANIMAL

IN SIGHT

a view of fine stony corries at the head of result

Taba and

carefully spied

I

from

length

the

to

to

cross

it

the valley for

commanding came

stood, not an animal

it

in

;

so

entire

its

which

on

ridge sight

promised

But though

our exploration.

a successful

245

we

we decided Here

and examine the valley beyond.

OI.ONUR CAM1

again

we met with

similar

want of success

;

with the

exception of some hares and a few Brahminy geese on the lakes, nothing was to be seen.

we should go inspect in

straight

the plateau,

patches

up

to the

Taba suggested

higher ground and

where the snow was

from the previous winter.

up the stony slopes proved a very

difficult

left

still

The

ascent

one

;

our


AFTER WILD SHEEP

246

horses refused to advance

them

larger

the

lake,

valley,

shore

rendezvous

for

brought

Taba and

us,

manding

the

where, at the bottom

with the aid of

till

I

An

away from

my

could

miles below us.

sat

extended

us,

down

Zeiss glass,

count

made

out a sus-

them some two

of

forty

day

to the

the plateau in open ground.

to

be

We

at

herd Little-

On more

before.

we found them

make

for three

Presently,

Sure enough these were sheep

had seen the

distance,

com-

to spy. I

and very probably belonged

inspection

scramble

hour's

myself, to the top of the

brown speck, then another, then a

picious-looking third,

lay

which was to be our

of

evening.

Here we

or four miles.

dale

sent

I

from which a broad, stony tableland,

ridge,

gradually sloping

last,

dismounting,

so,

;

immense amphitheatre of high mountains,

of an

a

head of the

to the

THE ALTAI

IN

careful

rams, lying on

all

could not, from that

out the size of their horns,

but de-

cided to approach them nearer, under shelter of the crags.

The wind was blowing

steadily in our faces

from the west, which was decidedly but the question arose whether possible

way

land, over six

or

in

of hiding ourselves on the

which we should have to crawl

seven

hundred yards.

our favour,

we should

We

find

flat

any

table-

for at least

advanced under

shelter of the rocks in very broken ground, having

now


ANOTHER STALK and then

to

247

descend a steep gully, the

of us being utterly inaccessible, then climb

and so on

for a couple of hours,

end of the

till

in

cliffs

front

up again,

we reached

the

from which we could distinguish

ridge,

Some

the sheep quite plainly.

of the rams carried

magnificent horns, which served to encourage us on

somewhat daring

our

down

some

for

on the

were

time,

Here we discovered

lying.

now

advance out of sight of them

that

without

we

where they up,

covered.

If

lay.

by chance one of

Two came

;

in

but no.

All

went well

very

necessary to

advance

in

now, as

I

opportunely, crawl

this

on

all

for

cautiously as

we

coveted horns.

horn

was

next half-hour.

availed ourselves,

found

it

and continue the

manner.

within range

more than another

of

and we soon

the steppe are so deceiving that

way

we

fours,

uncomfortable

thought,

bit

for the

or three hollows, of which in

them had

order to look through

and see whether any

glass,

visible

to

ground

we should immediately have been disTaba led the way in a most confident

manner, halting at places the

could

having

crawl, there being a slight depression of the

stood

crept

upon which the animals

grassy steppe

flat

We

enterprise.

and presently found ourselves

;

We

were

but distances on

we continued

half-hour,

in this

moving on

as

could, without catching sight of the


AFTER WILD SHEEP

248

At

this stage

behind, lying

though

still

deemed

I

it

my

to

it.

me was unbroken

when suddenly

right,

and

was gazing

I

I

perceived a move-

two or three rams quietly feeding

between Taba and myself.

spoiled

my off;

I

their

in

moment

fact,

could,

and cocking with

direction

the

shot at the

first

therefore,

my

or,

at

alarm.

head up, another

lifted

his

and a

third.

They had

rifle,

of

any

in

One

of

choosing

rolled

ning.

Jumping

;

in

my

of getting

rate,

followed

them carried a very

him over

it

Suddenly one of them

evidently

broadside -on,

wind

cautiously

as

fair I

go

suspicious,

my

chance.

and as he

head,

let

example,

his

become

so nothing was to be done but to take

was standing

my

the midst

pointed

I

for

largest,

get a whiff of

intention

animal as they passed,

my

This naturally

was now almost

I

Turning round,

of them. as

and already

up,

chance of picking out the

they might at any

intently

there, within forty yards, stood

almost

and be

Taba

on his stomach, and advanced alone,

flat

front of me,

ment

advisable to leave

the grassy line in front of

by any object overlooking in

THE ALTAI

IN

at

him,

and

the others disappeared like lightup,

fired

I

at

a

second

as

the

herd streamed downhill, but the result was a clean miss.

In

the

hustle

I

another good head, and,

was

unable

firing at

to

pick

out

random, saw one


A FAIRLY GOOD RAM tumble

When Taba came

over.

249

up

had already placed a mile between

us.

ram proved

to

ends

of

his

horns

girth

at

base taped almost 20 inches

be a

fairly

the

sheep

My

first

good one, though the

were, unluckily,

broken. ;

their

Their length

along the curve 45! inches.

"two or three rams quietly

FEEDIN'C.


AFTER WILD SHEEP

250

meantime heavy clouds had gathered, and

In the

weather

the

grallocked

looked

began pouring- down

gone

half

in

drenched from head to foot ceased

down

a

was no question of

in

fact,

the

pony

Rain

now

thoroughly

the rain never

and when we got

sending

The second animal

booty.

young

;

one,

the

and before we had

ourselves

of the day,

rest

with

Lake Valley and found our

the

to

there

my

the

for

hurriedly

back with

meat.

torrents,

we found

mile

a

and

head

the

started

Kalmuk

our

sending"

back

bring-

and

we

so

threatening-,

animal,

the

of

intention to

THE ALTAI

IN

I

the

ponies,

man

after

had dropped was

and not worth bringing back.

We

reached camp at about 6 p.m., none the worse for the dreadful

soaking we had undergone, and found

He

Littledale returned.

ground,

about

200

had seen only ewes on

second meeting with kotchkor.

joyed an exciting

his

Thus ended my

number.

in

I

had greatly

en-

and had never before found

stalk,

myself so close to them.

The

following day

I

remained

in

camp, sending

my

a couple of

men

rams

on the previous day, as well as the head

killed

of the large one.

clement,

where

I

back the meat of

to bring

Littledale

had shot

Though decided

my

Ibex.

the weather was to

explore

The two

the

still

two

in-

ground

native chiefs


A NEW HUNTER had

Towards

horses and men.

or three ridges, but

morrow. with a

with

The

unsuccessfully.

promising

cold,

a

whom the Zaissan had whom he had given me

My

Littledale

had seen on the previous day.

intention

over the same rolling

followed

it

and

camp,

down

ing a steep

beyond,

was

hills

on

us, it

a to

moving be a

though

my

left,

my

first

a

passed attempt

small

river

I

Littledale's

began spying the

I

inspected

carefully

glass revealed nothing.

however, and high above

object attracted

fair

We

my

as on

reaching

the rams.

but

the sky-line to

a good

try to find the herd

to

where, according to

left

every corner of the nullah,

On

brought

about eight miles, then ascend-

for

slope,

account, he had

country

the

for

hunter,

and of

this

night was

day

fine

account.

from

of

consequently started early, on July 26th,

I

new

him.

herd

a

and had followed them over two

rams,

exceedingly

found

old

came

evening- Littledale

he had

back and reported that seventeen

homes with our

respective

their

for

left

251

my

attention

;

I

found

ram, and, presuming that there might

be others behind the ridge, we started

The wind was very

unsteady, and

in his direction.

we were

obliged,

therefore, to circumvent the hill for a couple of hours in

order to get to leeward.

Leaving the ponies under

a

rocky ridge

of

suggestive

Ibex,

I

continued

to


AFTER WILD SHEEP

252

THE ALTAI

IN

when suddenly, about eighty yards below

advance,

us,

an average-sized ram started up and stood staring

some

us for

Unluckily, he had taken us un-

time.

my

awares, and,

being

rifle

few seconds to

a

at

in

case,

its

ready to

get

it

me

took

While

fire.

thus

engaged, the animal jumped over to another rock,

and stopping again gave me a doubtful chance. I

we rushed down him

among

he disappeared

fired

to

was indeed aggravating,

we had been

the one

we

course

We

the crags, and though

the place where

we were unable

last,

to

for

I

As

find

we had

him again.

seen

This

had probably frightened

following,

and on resuming; our

naturally found that he

had disappeared.

continued our search over the rolling stones at

an altitude of about 11,000

feet,

with

many ups and

downs, examining numerous corries and

gullies,

the only result of finding a herd of six

young Ibex

with

bucks, which were lying a few hundred yards below

and which we might have

us,

easily

approached

if

they had been worth shooting.

At

2

started six,

the

after

we gave up for

a four

way back

gigantic to

p.m.

back

size,

I

all

hope

for that day,

and

camp, which we only reached hours'

long and dreary

ride.

at

On

found a half-rotten sheep's head of

and putting the tape

measure 63 inches

in

to

it

I

found

it

length by 20 inches girth.


AGAIN ON THE WARPATH had ever seen.

This was the largest

I

had

small

with

returned

a

herd of about twenty, thought, but he failed

head,

remained

a

his stalk.

in

Towards evening Joseph came

camp.

back from Kosh-Agatch, but

ment brought neither instructed

him

to

the error

The

I

which

turned

several boxes of matches, similar cases,

in

hence

my

This

attention to the darker-looking

hills,

thought were a continuation of the backbone

Happy

Valley.

In these regions

I

had found

Ibex and Sheep, and there was every reason

go further

nullahs

I

was

obligingly

I

might come across more.

this time,

very

I

intended

and investigate the numerous

had as yet only seen from anxious

to

get

a

As my

afar.

shot,

Littledale

suggested that he should take her

and they started together

Lake

but

;

was once more on the warpath.

I

to believe that

wife

good supply of

aggravating to empty stomachs.

4 a.m.

I

of the

both

a

had

following day the weather cleared up again,

at

time

— most

We

short of vegetables

had been packed up

which

our great disappoint-

nor papers.

back

bring

we found

instead of that

to

letters

we had run

maccaroni, as

to

reported

one good one, as he

with in

Littledale

and

rained the whole of the next day, so everyone

It

and

253

Valley.

We

in

the

actually rode,

direction

my

out,

of the

hunters and

I,


AFTER WILD SHEEP

254 till

i

i

IN

THE ALTAI

a.m. without seeing" a single animal in any of

the nullahs

;

but on reaching fresh ground, and follow-

ing a high rocky ridge,

I

suddenly heard a shuffle

on the snow amongst the boulders below caught

sight of

was ready

away.

and as

they were

shoot

to

Another running shot was fired

I

I

By

making downhill.

the rocks and were I

us,

and

two sheep that had jumped out of

my

the time

200 yards

fairly

only chance,

saw the larger one stagger,

distinctly

though he only stopped a second and continued course downhill, and ridge.

naturally

I

his

up again and over the

then

rushed

across

the

corrie

and

reached the place where he had disappeared, only in

time to see him pop over the next ridge.

a desperate chase, and

he was galloping steadily on. be abandoned, noon, and

for

it

was now

The

pursuit

had

ground we had passed nothing,

in

to

a very long

Painfully retracing our steps,

were returning home without

we had found

was

fairly late in the after-

we had gone away from camp

distance that day.

It

we saw him once more when

the morning,

we

over the

precaution

and where

when suddenly my hunter

pointed out a couple of fine old rams staring at us

from a slope above, and presently starting sharp to

trot.

follow

In

my

state

them, which

of excitement

of course was

a

I

off at a

decided

very rash


DECEPTIVE GROUND enterprise, left

on

255

frightened sheep go a long way.

for

in their direction

found them again a mile further

They had now

on.

quieted down, and were care-

though looking back now and again.

lessly feeding,

my Kalmuk,

Leaving

small rocks,

!

My

off again.

start

the wind was shifty,

hopes had gone

now found myself

entirely lost

so that

the

I

ponies.

attention,

had

I

and

from

about

in

this

the ponies and

I

I

had

left

though

yet,

in

men

in

alike.

away

shouted at the

I

time

I

left

within

had

I

left

fifty

them.

had found the ground

those regions, and

forward never to be

wandered

suddenly found

I

down

quietly lying

first

I

every direction, and was

behind the boulder where

most deceiving

direction,

much

very

could get no answer.

manner

This was not the

It

had come,

I

my

notice

to

about giving up the search, when

yards

and had

ground,

could hardly be over a mile

I

my hunters, of my voice,

failed

everywhere

being

Strange to say,

top

that day.

know where

a loss to

at

I

The sheep had engrossed my whole

and

ground

the

broken

in

and

saw them

I

for

the direction from which

was

row of

crept on behind a

I

alas

but,

had not advanced half an hour before

I

I

the ponies behind a small boulder, and hurrying

I

decided hence-

alone again on the steppe.

was now nearly dusk, and

it

was not

until

9 p.m.


AFTER WILD SHEEP

256

we found

that

my

ourselves safely back.

got within 200 yards of a herd of

rams which were already on the move

or three magnificent heads

most anxious

Littledale

the

and

fine,

My

Taba

way,

the

higher range

was

intention

ground straight ahead over the

On my

search of them.

in

on the morning of July 29th,

started towards

I

of camp.

left

amongst them, and was

go out next day

to

Weather being

to

she had fired

added that he had noticed two

Littledale

hit.

;

running animals, but none apparently

five shots at the

were

to

try the

Nam Daba me

pointed out to

which one was a

fine

seemed

to

Pass.

a couple of

rams, three or four hundred yards in front of

smaller,

and

Littledale

They gave me an account

wife had just returned.

how they had

of

THE ALTAI

IN

us, of

old fellow, whilst the other, a

be wounded.

Creeping up

to

within 150 yards, further advance seemed impossible, so

took

I

his

my

shot at the smaller animal and ended

by

sufferings

close to the

ground where

previous day,

wounded by

rolling

I

her,

him

my

As

over.

wife

this

was

was shooting the

concluded that the beast had been

and accordingly sent

with the head and meat back to

my

second

camp with

man

the un-

expected tidings.

Taba and larger

I

sheep,

then advanced in the direction of the

which we

found

again

making

off


A STALK FROM ABOVE

Further pursuit was naturally useless,

desperately.

so

257

we turned westwards

of the pass, and presently

spied five rams standing on a patch of

way up

a

stony

The wind

nullah.

Taba suggested we should

Unluckily,

tiresome that evidently to

as

retired

avoid them.

we the

to I

shifty,

we should have

to

and mosquitoes were very

flies

clay,

being

half-

wait awhile before choos-

ing the direction for the dttour

make.

snow,

found, and the sheep had stretch

of

snow

my

noticed through

order

in

glass that one

of the five carried a very desirable head, and seeing

they would not move,

I

decided to circumvent them,

and come clown upon them from above. two good hours creeping

down

to get well

I

could,

protruding ledge of rock, from which I

ing over, part of the patch of

snow

I

my hands

I

I

I

reached a

thought

I

could see, on peep-

should be within range of them,

tearing

took us

round them, and when,

as cautiously as

yards below me.

It

still

about 400

therefore crawled on

fours,

all

on the sharp edges of stones,

till

found myself within about a hundred yards of the

place

At

where we had located them. this

moment

a gust of wind blew

gully right in our backs,

animals

came

in

siorht

and a second

down

after the five

moving downhill.

mediately fired at the best ram as he

the

I

rushed

impast


AFTER WILD SHEEP

258

me, but a running shot

is

THE ALTAI

IN

Three

always doubtful.

other consecutive shots were of

no

As we

avail.

watched them, however, through our

glasses,

Taba

suddenly shouted, " baalou" which means "wounded,"

and sure enough there was the big fellow struggling to

keep up with the

We

broken.

dismay,

great

one of

rest with

saw him

his hind legs

cross the valley, and, to our

ascend the opposite slope, and

appear over the ridge.

Another chase similar

yesterday was our

Though we found

lot.

and followed them had

to give

up the

eventually

to camp.

The

and energy of these animals when wounded

vitality

Though

extraordinary. steep,

and returned

pursuit,

blood-tracks,

we

for a couple of miles,

dis-

to that of

the

slope

and the animal's hind leg was shattered, he

never stopped once, but galloped steadily away.

was

is

was exceedingly

same ram

fated to find that

again,

I

wound him

once more

in

the shoulder, and eventually lose him.

According

to

a

careful

estirnate,

the length of

his

horns should have been well-nigh sixty inches.

reached the tents at 8 p.m. ladies told in,

me on my

in

very low

spirits.

I

The

return that Littledale had sent

through his second Kalmuk, a note which he had

scribbled

down on

a

flat

bit of

stone with Hint,

in

the absence of ordinary materials, with the following

words

:

"

Wounded

big sheep

;

send small tent and


A MONGOLIAN THUNDERSTORM

The

This was indeed good news.

stores."

Kalmuk back

had ordered the

259

ladies

the necessary

with

things for a night out. In the evening

storm, as

we witnessed a Mongolian

— very different

European ones

to

It

!

seemed

The continued

the end of the world had come.

if

thunder-

rattling of the thunder, blending with the noise of the

and interspersed with long

gale,

combined

to

produce a

flashes of lightning,

terrible, yet magnificent, display

not easily to be forgotten.

On

the following morning, there being no sign of

Littledale,

and the sky having

cleared,

some

out in the hope that he might find

whereabouts of

camp

in

in

my wounded

eager

in

we

remained

I

At 4 p.m. Taba

expectation.

Half an hour

perceived a small party riding towards us

was Littledale with

this

Taba

clue to the

sheep, while

returned, after an unsuccessful search. later

sent

I

the finest head of

been obtained, and

it

his

Ovis

proved

He

two men.

ammon to

that

;

brought

had as yet

be the record.

Its

measurements, as taken on the spot, were the following to

:

Length, 63 inches; girth, 19^ inches; from

tip,

41^

inches.

He

gave us a most graphic

account of his two days' experiences. across the

same herd which my

with five shots from his

"

tip

wife

He

had come

had saluted

Mannlicher," and to which


;

AFTER WILD SHEEP

2 6o

herd belonged the young ram

He

her.

THE ALTAI

IN I

had finished

off for

had waited a considerable time before the

animals fed into stalkable ground, taking the utmost precaution not to miss the chance of securing

the

magnificent old ram he had "spotted" with his glass.

Having got above them, the whole herd passed below him, and as the large one

had

came up broadside-on, he

fired twice, shattering his

he found, was not

had only been able

hind quarters

sufficient to

;

but

this,

stop him, and as he

to take his shot late in the after-

noon, he had decided to spend the night out, and follow

him early the next day.

seen of him at dusk, after

that,

having

finally risen

much

down

lain

The

he had

last

to his discomfiture,

he had

several times,

and walked slowly over a

was

ridge.

Next

morning, at dawn, he was found lying some hundreds of yards below the ridge in the next corrie,

He

had

into

him before he could secure him.

to stalk

still

him again, and put another

alive.

bullet

The wretched

animal must have spent a most uncomfortable night but such mortal

is

the vitality of these animals that only a

wound

will stop

Next day we I

felt

them.

shifted

camp westwards.

much depressed over

decided to try once more direction,

my

Though

the last days' failures,

I

old ground in an eastern

on the chance of finding the two old rams




A GRAND OLD RAM I

had come across

accompanied success.

was

me,

We

there.

were

Little

263

Taba, who again

and sure of

confident

still

to return

the evening to our

in

next camping-ground, which was to be on the other

Nam Daba

On

reaching the

plateau, after an hour's ride from camp,

we very soon

below the

side

discovered a grand

about two

miles

old

ram

us, as

we were

his in

my wounded

full

his attention

According

approach him was

Taba, the

to

to ride

on

in

we

would be distracted by the ponies, which

being led away. fours,

I

the

my

second

ponies

we

intently

for

could see the as

they

were

In this manner, and crawling on

got without difficulty within a hundred

yards of his resting-place. his horns,

by

This ruse was crowned with success,

crept along behind the rocks

animal watching

to

mighty horns

had come across

to be led in an opposite direction

Kalmuk.

all

to

I

view and slowly drop out of our saddles, whilst

were

as

way

in

him on

sight of

beast, for his

a couple of days previously.

thought

Taba's idea was that

greatly resembled those of the one

only possible

We

head was turned full

horseback at about 500 yards.

he might be

amongst rocks

lying

north of our camp.

he had naturally seen our direction, and

Pass.

As

I

drew nearer

I

judged

which were on the sky-line just before me,

be close upon sixty inches, and just as

I

was

pre-


AFTER WILD SHEEP

264

I

fired.

As he made

had smashed

his hind-legs

off

and that besides one of

which confirmed our suspicion

stiff,

To

We

came up

now come

my ram

just in time to see

On we

we

went

at

full

heading towards a mass of rock, under which

we hoped he might would induce him

lie

to

down

He

slope.

felt

but,

;

alas

nothing-

!

and again we saw him

stop,

up the opposite

our proceedings, and

We

he-

till

corrie as hard as

walking over the next ridge.

toiling

again,

ponies had

and we galloped across the

gallop,

had wounded on

now and

The

disappeared over a ridge.

could go.

I

our dismay he continued moving on at

a slow pace, looking round

up,

could plainly see that

I

his shoulder,

was

a very

availed myself, however,

I

was our old friend which

that he

the 29th.

me

he started up and gave

paring- to shoot,

doubtful chance, of which

and

THE ALTAI

IN

that he

must have noticed was being pursued.

then decided to dodge round out of sight of him,

and, following up a small stream,

got to the next ridge,

making.

The

for

meet him before he

which he was evidently

now

ponies were

exhausted, but

urged them on, and dismounted close of the stream. of the ridge, lying

on the

to

Half an hour brought us below which slope

I

soon spied

where we had

Approaching with the greatest

we bed

to the top

my

animal

seen

last

caution,

the

I

was

him. just


A LUCKLESS PURSUIT about to

fire,

but here

I

when he again

was dead

have been clean misses. sign of

Taba

the

nullah,

and

my

second

Kalmuk and

pursuit,

however,

Having spied every

the

still

On

inch.

of

the

sight

man nor

in

beast.

stopped, for

I

my

Retracing

steps

search of Taba,

this,

which,

to

now came

and

on,

and

if

Taba and

opposite

hill.

explained

to

his

me

in

make

of

in-

ram had betaken

the

Heavy showers

case.

resolved to return

I

pursuit,

On I

home

;

my

reaching once

suddenly caught

pony on the very top of the

Beckoning

seen the animal

tiers

would be out of the question,

more the scene of our wild sight of

stood

river

was the

feared,

I

the

luck had evidently deserted me.

had

my

in

ground,

of

who

continued

hoped that he might bring back good news.

himself, further pursuit

side,

I

neither

it,

useless.

the other side of

accessible crags,

and

in

was now

I

saw no

half-dead ponies,

the

bit

advance was stream

I

had trotted across

and on coming

next corrie found nothing

to

Looking" round

advance another

to

off;

two shots must

remained perfectly helpless with

I

refused

further

my

as for the ram, he

;

and started

rose

and

beat,

265

great

to

him

to

come down, he

excitement

for the

tried unsuccessfully to cut

that

he had

bed of the stream, and

him

off

from the other

where we should necessarily have

lost

him

in


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

266

He

the rocks. of

had been within twenty yards

said he

the beast, shouting- and throwing stones at him,

but that he had held his own, and steadily crossing

amongst the

the stream had disappeared

had followed him

some

time,

Taba

crags.

and then given up

These sheep were, indeed, the toughest

the chase.

animals

for

had ever come

I

across,

and

had gone on

for

day's ex-

this

for the

ram

miles with a hind-leer broken

and

periences furnished the best proof of

it,

a shattered shoulder, and yet our united efforts had

been

unable

tents

We

him.

secure

and dreary journey,

after a long

the

to

pitched

in

at 6 p.m.,

a small, narrow

We

from our I

and found

gully

northwards, on the Siberian side of the Pass.

camp,

reached

running

Nam Daba

were now about twenty-five versts distant camp, and

last

at

an altitude of 8,000

feet.

heard from the ladies that the march had not been

made without

been accustomed exceedingly loth In

quarters.

new

incident, for the to

to

remain

feeding'

all

day,

carry any baggage or

consequence

of

had

horses, which

this

many

to

of

were shift

them

stampeded, with the result of throwing over their loads.

and

One

in particular

Littledale's

packed

on

him,

largest

the

was a most vicious animal, sheep's

head having been

horns several

great danger of being broken.

It

times

were

in

had begun raining


OVER ROLLING STONES in

267

the forenoon, and had continued steadily

day,

all

so that the tents had to be pitched under a severe

which was by no means useful

drizzle,

We

hoped

for

our bedding.

to be able to get out shooting early next

morning, but the weather prevented this

poured

all

day, and

it

was not

until the

Our

in

in

had

felt,

lost

still

his

when

way

he arrived, saying

at last in

the

hills,

day.

I

we both

Littledale

was much

started

lost

2nd, early

went up a valley

in

six hours'

him.

the to

weather

whilst

hills,

westwards into country as yet unexplored by

was freezing hard when we issued from our the day was a promising one. hours,

Taba and

across

swampy

hills,

I,

being-

new ground.

our

a southern direction

towards the higher snow-covered

single animal.

dis-

had wounded,

J

we were now a good

ground where we

Next morning, August bright,

and had been

cherished hopes of finding him again,

notwithstanding that ride from the

evening that

had

search of us the whole

I

it

was

concerted about the big ram which

though

fact,

the afternoon, and want of meat

beginning to be that he

in

cattle-driver

the clouds gradually dispersed.

not turned up

;

We

I

went

us.

It

tents,

and

rode for three

over nasty rolling stones, and

ravines, without catching sight of a

On

reaching a row of grey, craggy

Taba suddenly stopped me, saying

it

was no use


AFTER WILD SHEEP

268

THE ALTAI

IN

continuing in that direction, because he thought there

was a very poor chance of game, and suggested

we should visit

Lake

our old

where we had found so

Valley,

We

much game from our previous camp. accordingly, as hard

reaching

that

turn back as quickly as possible and re-

camp

as our

at 9 a.m.,

having

raced back

could

steeds

lost the

carry us,

whole of the

morning, and, changing horses, quickly started

in

the

opposite direction.

We hours.

ascended a long slope during the next two

As

slipped and

it

my

was very steep and wet, bringing

fell,

luckily without

me down

with

On

serious consequences.

the nullahs with which

we were

horse

him,

but

reaching

already familiar,

I

began spying, and straight away found three rams Taba, who was

lying about half a mile below us. slightly

in

front

of

me, had

to

failed

them,

notice

and having shown himself too quickly on the skyline,

made them

Great was

gallop away.

my

dis-

appointment, as one of them seemed to carry a good head. it

We

was of no

let

them

go, as experience

avail pursuing scared animals,

ing another low ridge eastwards, within sight of an old

rock about a mile steady,

had taught us

in

we

and

follow-

presently

came

ram standing motionless on front of

us.

a

The wind being

we dropped down and decided

to try for him.


AWAITING DEVELOPMENTS

We two

were now on a small plateau,

parallel grassy valleys, separated

boulders, from which sprang here

at

and there rows of

afforded us capital shelter, under which

hide as

in this

we moved

manner

the head of

by low, rolling

rocky buttresses resembling ruins of old

to

269

we were

We

cautiously on.

These

forts.

over half an hour, reaching a

for

able

continued last

clump of rocks about 500 yards from our coveted quarry, which

was

now

ing grassy saddle

only divided

advance no further without so of

we

lay

sight.

down

The

A

standing like a statue.

still

to wait

till

risk of

us,

slant-

and we could

being discovered

the beast should

move

;

out

heat was intense that day, and the

sky cloudless, and

it

was evident that the ram was

pondering over which of the rocks he should choose to

lie

under

As we of

in

the shade.

lay awaiting further developments, a couple

young rams came up

probably likewise

in

to within fifteen yards of us,

search of shade.

We

both held

our breath, fearing to disturb them, and they slowly passed us without having noticed our presence.

had distracted our attention

we looked back

for the big

for

some

time,

ram he was not

These

and when to

be seen.

We accordingly started to cross the intervening ground, and on reaching the rocks where we had seen him standings

we found

that

there was another row of


27

AFTER WILD SHEEP

o

THE ALTAI

IN

we peeped over

buttresses further down, and as

Taba caught me by

rocks

the

sleeve

and

the

pointed

towards a tower-like mass, with precipitous walls on every

ram it

!

side,

again,

some 400 yards

There was my

lower.

standing motionless on the very top of

soon recognised his massive, well-shaped horns.

I

and we presently

Again our only chance was

to wait,

saw him make up

and turning away from us

his mind,

Making

disappear over the rocks.

sure he could not

see us from his hiding-place, wherever

it

might

be,

we

again rushed downhill, and safely reached the buttress.

But here a delicate job awaited me, bility the

sheep had

lain

for in all

ledge on the further side of the rocks, and

have

to

and

him,

find

cliff,

hand and on the ascent,

here could

and had

I

It

I

at

me,

I

at

wall, rifle in

natural steps

my

foothold,

I

I

Moreover, the place,

this

breathless, from corner to corner,

yards below

some

top.

the animal any moment.

close

rather a perilous

could get

never have reached the

wind kept blowing round start

was

not been for

it

should

Leaving Taba

scrambled up the

alert.

and there where

I

probably get within

quarters before discovering him. the foot of the

proba-

down under some protruding

slowly

till

caught sight of

and might advanced

suddenly, forty first

a pair of

horns, and then of the whole of the animal's body.


AN EXCITING CHASE

my

In

excitement

took a quick, standing shot at

I

down

him, and fired again as he rushed

Taba was by my

In a second

watched

till

said he

the rocks.

and as we both at

full

He

went

speed we on,

how-

he reached some steep crags on the opposite

where he

side of the valley,

made

side,

running away

beast

saw that he was wounded.

clearly

ever,

the

271

had located him

;

up the ponies, we

so, calling

his direction

off in

in

Taba

finally lay clown.

order to approach him

again from above.

But the

ran

down

now was

difficulty

from another

side, for

from the top ridge.

parallel

we made our way through over the rocks,

to recognise the rocks

numerous rows of

similar crags

Dismounting,

the broken ground, peeping

suddenly we heard the rattling of

till

stones and caught sight of him as he dashed the slope.

Bang went my

of breaking a leg

but this only gave him greater

;

impetus, and following him

down we got

of the valley in less time than I

now thought

vent to

my

beast out to hill.

that

we had

despair,

me

down

again, with the result

rifle

it

lost

to the

bottom

takes to describe

it.

him, and was giving

when Taba calmly pointed

the

standing on a ledge half-way up the

He seemed

unable to

move

;

I

could distinctly

see the blood flowing from the wound, and thought I

might go on and

finish

him

off,

but Taba's plan was


AFTER WILD SHEEP

272

He

different.

THE ALTAI

IN

ordered the second

Kalmuk

to circum-

vent the crags, and cut off his retreat from the upper

This manoeuvre having been accomplished,

rocks.

he beckoned still

me

proceed towards the animal, which

to

We

stood motionless on the same spot.

found,

however, that he could move,

soon

we

for before

could approach him he turned round and rushed away.

Running

we again

as fast as our legs could carry us,

reached the top just as the animal had been turned

back by the mounted Kalmuk, and as the ram passed within

fifty

over with a bullet

memorable well

— 51

spread.

me

yards of

I

neck.

his

in

chase.

rolled

him

Thus ended

this

at full gallop,

I

found that his horns measured

inches in length, 19J inches girth, $3 inches

was

I

shots had told

and the

the thigh,

being wanted

by the

also struck

— two in

of

last

them one

camp, we

foxes and vultures, and

we brought back

to

fact that

in the

the neck.

in left

camp

Meat

the carcase

only took

my

four

stomach, one

his

at 6 p.m.

to

in

not the

head, which Littledale

had

come back empty-handed. Next morning,

at 9 a.m.,

and pitched our tents feet, after

we

noon

shifted at

camp eastwards

an altitude of 7,800

a short fifteen versts* march.

August although

at

4th I

was an

went out

in

uninteresting

day

for

me,

eager expectation of finding




THE TARKHATY RIVER the big

ram

several

herds,

we were doomed

we attempted

every time

we came

In

had as yet seen

I

of them

order to get a

country,

peak below

the

I

discovered

to

find

made

I

to

;

the heat of the intrude upon the

thought were worth shooting.

command

full

Taba and

in

be

to

we expected

day had probably caused them

None

came across

across several rams amongst the most

broken ground

Ibex.

I

approach them, and on

to

ridge where

reaching a high Ibex,

Though

had wounded.

I

275

of the surrounding

the ascent of the highest

and discovered about a mile

district,

lying on a grassy cul-de-sac, six very fine

us,

old rams, perhaps the finest

lying close to each other,

I

all

had

They were

seen.

resting their heads on

the ground, probably tired of the weight nature had

imposed upon them

We

to carry.

waited

till

5 p.m..

hoping that they might get up and feed towards

us,

but seeing that they had no intention of doing

so,

we

started

day.

As

of him.

back

for

and hoping

disturbed,

for It

Littledale

camp,

my wounded

was

leaving

find

to

the

herd

un-

them again another

one, there were no signs

pitch dark before

we got

to the tents.

was back with two good heads.

Next day we

shifted

camp down

the

Tarkhaty

River, passing our friend Abduldho's Kirghiz encamp-

ment,

but

omitting

to

call

upon

him

for

fear

of


AFTER WILD SHEEP

276

We

wasting time.

THE ALTAI

IN

marched up a small

the aforenamed river, and about

We

camp.

now had

prospect

in

as well

had

I

following

on

visited

new range

a

as

the

for

day both the same ground which the previous day,

tributary of

p.m. pitched our

2

of

hills

running northwards of us on the other side of the

Tarkhaty

haunted by

were

Taba

Ibex;

frequented

ever

These

Valley.

them.

supposed

intimated

sheep

no

that

began

It

raining

be

to

the

in

afternoon, and so continued the whole of the follow-

Consequently we resorted to

ing day.

Grayling rose

we

caught

few

but

weather cleared

up,

That day

night.

yourts, and found

had come

across

I

Towards evening

fish.

and

but

visited

the

the

hard during the

froze

it

them by in

fishing,

the Tarkhaty River, and

in

listlessly

several

of the

than those

far cleaner

Kalmuk

Kirghiz I

Large

country.

herds of horses and cattle (some thousands together)

were grazing round the encampment, which showed

how much

richer the

Kirghiz are than the wretched

Kalmuks.

On

the

following

towards the

hills

morning

on the

left

started,

I

at

4

a.m.,

side of the small stream

on which we were encamped, and presently reached a

high

tinguish

tableland,

the

from

which

Kosh-Agatch

I

Plain

could in

plainly

the

dis-

distance.


WADING THE TARKHATY RIVER came across

large

found no shootable rams.

We

That day

Taba and

I

I,

Bain

the

sight,

as

rivers,

herds of ewes,

went on a

reaching the scene of our

The Happy

with Ovis amnion. -

Tchagan

as

well

Mongolia.

way,

long-

Tchagan

now

-

in

Burgaza

we

which

over

pass

but

adventure

first

Valley was

and

low

the

277

crossed

into

we were

so soon to quit these happy hunting-grounds

and return

to civilisation

;

sorry to think

felt

I

but our time was up, and

autumn was announced by the

the approaching

wind that swept across the high Mongolian

We

were being turned out by a

turned to camp late without

having

come back with that he

that

in

fired

cold

Altai.

late season.

re-

I

the evening in pensive mood, off

my

the meat of a

rifle.

Littledale

had

young ram, reporting

had seen several Ibex (female and young).

but had failed to discover the fine herd

I

had seen

two days previously.

Next day, on coming out of my

tent,

I

found

it

to

be a beautiful bright sunny morning, and decided with

Taba

to cross the

lofty

spurs,

solely

Tarkhaty River and investigate the

which the hunter said were inhabited

by Ibex.

the large rams.

Littledale

We

waded

went back

in

search of

across the river at 5 a.m..

and gave the ponies a severe

trial,

as

we ascended an

exceedingly steep slope for a couple of hours.

On


AFTER WILD SHEEP

278

IN

THE ALTAI

our way two female Ibex watched us for some time,

and then disappeared

now

in

the rocks.

The ground we

sighted was apparently devoid of grass

edged,

volcanic-like

corries,

and joined together by rocky

peaks,

intercepted

sharp-

;

by

stony

gave

ridges,

the country an aspect of solitude and desolation

seemed

;

it

if

an earthquake had turned everything

upside down.

Sundry plateaux here and there en-

as

abled us to continue our course, and as a high saddle which

stony nullah,

I

spied a dozen female

the opposite slopes about a mile

we ascended

ponies,

we reached

commanded a view over

a

steep

a wide

Ibex lying on

Leaving the

off.

over

slope

rolling-

boulders and shingle, and in about an hour reached

another and higher plateau, at an altitude of in

feet,

order

to

inspect

an adjacent

1,000

1

where

corrie,

Taba assured me he had always seen Ibex strange to say, sometimes Maral stags.

and,

This time,

however, we found nothing there, though we carefully

The

spied every nook and corner of the rocks.

horses had been led round over easier ground, and

we mounted again

to

cross

explore the nullahs beyond. lay

everywhere

them, Just as

sinking

;

our ponies

now and

we reached

a

large

tableland

and

Large patches of snow were obliged to cross

again

up

to

their

bellies.

the ech^e another herd of about


A HERD OF IBEX came

forty female Ibex their

way

snow

They were making

in sight.

slowly up from their feeding ground below,

and were evidently heading the

279

We

patches.

for the

neighbourhood of

were now within 400 yards

them, on horseback, and stopped in order to

of

them

Strange as

pass.

discover

us,

moment

I

and

it

walked

may

seem, they did not

slowly

saw a

suddenly

let

fine

At

that

buck,

then

away. old

another, and a third, following the last of the herd. I

now made desperate

signs to

Taba

to dismount,

and get the horses out of sight as quietly as he could,

which

being

noticed

small hollow, quietly

he

we

making

the

beasts.

for the rocks, till

without

Crawling up

to

and we watched them

they had passed out of sight.

With Wild Sheep we should never have been to

get off so easily.

particularly attracted

the

broken

As

others

off,

;

my

attention,

and

I

was very

me

larger

the tip of one of his horns

was

but the other looked a very good one.

they disappeared round a corner,

as quickly as

my

I

followed them

legs could carry me,

and could now

just see the tips of their horns

steep crags.

able

Three of the old bucks had

anxious to secure one which seemed to than

a

The Ibex were

waited, motionless.

a long time

for

accomplished

successfully

by

They were

moving amongst the

evidently about to

lie

down

;


AFTER WILD SHEEP

28o

leaving Taba,

so,

THE ALTAI

IN

crawled on over the rolling stones.

I

The wind was blowing

steadily downhill,

so

was

I

obliged to circumvent them from below, and crept for

about half an hour down the bed of a small stream till

They were

reached the bottom of the ravine.

I

now

out of sight, and huge rocky boulders, one on

the top of another, stood like a broken wall

Amongst

of me.

these

front

in

now began crawling

I

up,

and presently found that two or three young bucks

were lying amongst them within 200 yards of

me

facing towards

the

me, but

could see no sign of

I

There was no

larger ones.

possibility of

without being discovered, so in

waited

I

a most uncomfortable position

start slumbering.

I

had

till

I

an advance

fairly

saw them

behind

the

highest

boulders,

reached a corner which afforded

On

looking back a

not

been

yards

disturbed,

me

above

longer horns, the

utmost

my

in

was

in sight

somehow

to

time

face,

I

me

and

now and finally,

till,

the

saw that they had

some 300 the

sky-line I

tips

made my way

The wind was

still

young bucks,

I

of

with

blowing

and though now and then

of the two

I

better shelter.

and now appeared

towards which

steadily still

last

against

caution.

lazily

to seize the opportunity,

crawled on for over half an hour, hiding again

an hour

I

managed

get within 200 yards of the old ones.


A GOOD HEAD I

281

took over an hour to advance 100 yards, but could

go further

venture to

not

against a bit of

me

gave

so

;

and waited

rock,

my

steadied

I

one of them

till

a chance by getting up.

rifle

could only see

I

four or five horns against the sky, like the branches

of a tree, and naturally could not distinguish which

them belonged

of

however, one of them I

Presently,

Ibex.

up broadside-on, and

stood

tip of his

immediately recognised the one with the

horn broken

him and

off.

fired

As he

shot which

rolled

On

disappeared.

did

so,

I

drew

my

bead on

almost perpendicularly twice.

him stumble, and had

a

larger

the

to

just time to give

him

The

over.

getting up to

I

saw

him another

others

him

I

instantly

found he had

good head, the unbroken horn measuring over 40

inches in

length and

Taba, who

inches girth.

10^

had been waiting some hundreds of yards

came

He

up,

and helped

was delighted

at

my

samples of his broken not

in

we decided difficult one,

As

to return to

English,

it

and gave

me

soon oft.

further

although this time

which had been hitherto

was getting

it

off,

the animal's head

success,

his usual vocabulary,

applied to failures.

crags,

cut

to

late in the day,

camp, and the road being a

took us a long time to get out of the

and as long again

to

find

the

horses.

At

6 p.m. we crossed the Tarkhaty River, and reached


282

AFTER WILD SHEEP

the tents a

more over

little later.

trophies of fifty

inches.

IN

Littledale

sheep,

pitch

had brought

neither of

to

in

two

them measuring

Next day we bade

Tarkhaty country, and decided

and

THE ALTAI

farewell to the

make

a long march

our tents on the banks of the Tchagan-

Bursfaza River.

KI.II'RN

lO lCHACAN-Bl/RGAZA.


CHAPTER

VIII.

Pack -ponies gone astray; replaced by Camels from the Kirghis More Stalking Letters at Last Again in the Happy Valley

— — — Kosh-Agatch Plain — Antelope — Our Bag Start for Bashkaous Valley — Shooting Wild Fowl on the Kosha Wild Swan with the Rifle — In the Agatch Steppe — My Wife Altai Woodlands — Pine, Larch, and Birch — After Maral and Roedeer — Grayling Fishing in the Bashkaous River — The Zaissan's Home — Kara Kodjur Stream — Unsuccessful Approaches — Wild Scenery— Sorry-Kol Lake — Tracks of Maral and Moose— Littledale Shoots a good Roe-buck — Our Camp at Vulientash— Absence of Deer — September 6th — General Retreat to Ongoudai — Meeting with Major Wissmann — Homeward Bound. Weather breaks up

kills

Late

The

in

the

morning of August 9th we struck camp.

cause of delay was that eight of our pack-ponies

had somehow gone astray, and with our demitcha met us as

we stepped

this

bad news

out of our tents.

His report implied that they might have been stolen during the night by the Kirghiz, who, he addicted to such proceedings.

was

that

the

Our

for

though an energetic man

in

who

were

Kalmuks themselves had concealed

them with the view of making us pay demitcha,

said,

opinion, however,

kept his followers

in

them.

The

every way,

thorough good order, had

2S3


AFTER WILD SHEEP

284

shown signs

IN

of craftiness, and

the look out for

some

THE ALTAI

we were

We

trickery.

therefore on

let

him know

that

we

and

that the entire responsibility before the Zaissan

lay

could

with him.

the Kirghiz

and

in

no way answer

Four camels were brought

encampment

at 10 a.m.

for their negligence,

we were on

had despatched two of

the move.

his

men

in

the

Kalmuks

soon

from

The demitcha search

ponies, with strict orders to " find them," ally

in

replace the lost ponies,

to

reappeared

of the

and natur-

with

them.


THE HAPPY VALLEY Having passed the ground we knew our tents

the afternoon at our

in

and forthwith sent Joseph a

to

>8 5

so well,

first

we

pitched

camping

place,

Kosh-Agatch with

half

dozen ponies laden with our numerous trophies.

The

was

evenino-

clear

and

bright,

and on the

follow-

Happy

Valley

nullah

south-

OUR CAMI

ing morning again,

whilst

wards.

Alas

and though the nullah, day,

was

I

I

I

off to inspect

Littledale !

I

followed

the the

found the place entirely deserted,

followed the stream to the very head of

saw but three

fair

rams during the whole

though there were numbers of

ewes on the

These stood

crowning the

slopes

on

both

sides.


AFTER WILD SHEEP

286

came down

heights, staring at us, and as

we had

passed.

THE ALTAI

IN

camp

returned to

I

soon

to i(-cd as

at

p.m.

6

thoroughly disappointed, and Littledale had met with

no better success.

Next day he went stopped

bed

in

Happy

to the

Valley, whilst

Though

and disheartened.

tired

blew a gale, he returned

in the

1

it

afternoon with a fine

massive head, saying he had come across a small herd of old rams, out of which he had succeeded in secur-

ing one. letters

as yet

In

received,

devouring the

previously

which

lor

news,

account

had

which

of

of

the

taken

Queen's Jubilee

place

The weather was

the autumn,

my

most

the

two

following day, August 12th, was to be

incessantly.

with

with

in

we had

months

!

after kotchkor.

up

first

and we spent three or four hours " latest "

important was an procession,

The

Kalmuk came

evening a

the

and papers from Ongoudai, the

and a

Littledale

wife, whilst

Taba.

together with

I

bitterly

went

to

my

last

evidently breaking

the

cold

wind blew

Happy

Valley

went up the Tchagan-Burgaza

We

had hardly advanced an

hour from camp, when we came across a herd of ten

rams feeding carried

in

a small lateral ravine.

Some

of

them

good heads, and the wind being favourable,

we attempted

to stalk

them.

As

they fed slowly over


A PACK CAMEL a boulder,

we

287

started in their direction, following the

bed of the stream, and carefully avoiding discovery by a

lot

of ewes at the entrance of the gully.

we descended

out of

sight,

about 300 yards ahead of

I'AKA

us,

the rams were feeding

and so

WITH A PACK

small ridge from which

I

I

approached a

CAMKI..

hoped

to get

on peeping over with the utmost caution tion they I

had taken,

I

carefully,

dismay, a rattling of stones to I

my

shot, but

in

the direc-

found that they had gone.

continued to advance

thought they had scented

As

us,

my

I

heard,

my

Naturally

right.

and as

to

As

I

continued


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

288

carelessly on, suddenly to

my

up within

and immediately

yards,

fifteen

left

a fine ram jumped

whole herd were rushing downhill.

after

had

I

the

to take a

standing shot at the running animals, which

all

away

rolling

uninjured.

the

noise

of

got

had heard had been caused by some other

stones

I

Sheep

that

I,

Apparently

had seen

We

us.

went

Taba and

on,

up the valley and over the saddle, reaching a stony

plateau, out of which rose a steep mountain covered

with reddish

soil

and

shingle.

Here we found the

rams again, and made a long dcHour of about three hours to get to leeward of them, but when we again

saw them, at the

after a desperate scramble, they

very top of the

was now getting

It

camp on

foot,

succeeded

in

hill

late,

having

lost

in

were lying

an unstalkable position.

and we had

to

our ponies.

My

one, which, however,

On August

wounded

was not secured.

13th the temperature had gone

we decided

Burgaza River, and the

to

wife had

approaching within 200 yards of a herd

of about thirty rams, out of which she had

so fast that

return

Kosh-Agatch

to

lift

in the

Plain,

camp down

down

the Tchagan-

afternoon pitched tents on with

the

intention

of

de-

voting the following day to the pursuit of Antelope.

Heavy

leaden clouds were rolling

a regular hurricane

we

left

in

the sky, and

in

the higher ground and


HUNTING ANTELOPES bade farewell

own

that

it

to the

was a

289

Wild Sheep country

relief to find oneself

and

;

I

must

once more on

the lower steppe.

Next day the weather was again cessively

warm.

Littledale

and

Not

sides of the river after Antelope. I

and ex-

fine

went

I

to

different

from camp

far

found a herd of about a hundred with some good

bucks amongst them, but as there was no means of

approaching them on the be

should

they

driven

flat

plain

I

suggested that

towards us by

Kalmuk, who was instructed

to

make

my as

detour as he could before showing himself.

second

wide

He

a

had

not gone far before the whole herd suddenly got up,

and, strange to say, darted at headlong" speed towards the place where as

I

was

lying.

I

took a running shot

they passed within a hundred yards of me, and

dropped one of them, which buck. the

I

found to be an old

Taba, who was an old hand at

best

way

to

towards them, they rush direction,

in

in

this

game, said

secure one was to gallop straight

which case, instead of running away,

confusion at right angles to the hunter's

and then begins an extraordinary chase, the

Antelopes making an outward gallop parallel to

them

in

circle, whilst

an inner one.

the ponies

As soon

as

they are near enough, the hunter drops off his saddle

and

shoots.

In

this

manner we galloped towards


AFTER WILD SHEEP

2 9o

them as

as

fast

succeeded

IN

our ponies

THE ALTAI

could carry us, and

I

securing a couple after half an hour's

in

breathless ride.

It

was a curious

sight to see these

small animals tearing along the plain, while the faster

we were

they went the nearer

two others, which made a

Littledale brought in

bag

able to approach them. fair

for the day.

On August

15th, at noon,

Here we were met by our

we were friend

Kosh-Agatch.

at

the Zaissan,

We

greeted our return with signs of joy. to take

who

proceeded

photographs of our bag, which consisted of

the heads of thirty-two

We

Antelope.

who was most

Wild Sheep, two

and

Ibex,

found a new Russian Customs civil to us,

and greatly assisted us

The whole

of the

in

Maral

the preparations for our next journey to the country.

five

official,

following day was de-

voted to packing our trophies, which were carefully

wrapped up

in

felt,

leaving the smaller heads, which

were not worth taking, and sending ones straight to to

Ongoudai.

to their destination.

twelve ponies not too start

spent

the

off

the larger

was instructed

We T

accompany them

them

Daniel

many

found

and saw

for the purpose,

well loaded the following morning.

afternoon

in

settling

accounts

with

We the

Zaissan for the ponies and men, and decided as soon as

possible

to

go

after

Maral.

According

to

the




DUCK SHOOTING

'93

Zaissan, there were two passes into the Valley,

Bashkaous

and he strongly recommended the Koukouriou

Pass, to which, in our ignorance of the country,

agreed.

The

other way, he said, was

and the path more

difficult

for

much

the ponies.

we

longer,

In the

ACKlNi; HORN:-

afternoon of the preparations,

1

7th

August we had

finished our

and went out Duck shooting on one of

the

numerous lakes of the Kosh-Agatch steppe.

still

hoped

to get the rare

by

Mr.

several, they

were

look

for

Duck

Alpheraki, all

of

had been asked

I

but

common

though

species.

we

I

to

shot

Littledale


AFTER WILD SHEEP

294

wounded a Wild Swan. paid us a

official

visit,

in

the country,

Russian

and having learnt from him

wanted was not uncommon

I

with him

left

I

THE ALTAI

After dinner the

Duck

that the species of

IN

my

coloured plate of

the bird, together with three or four skinning knives,

and

return got

in

three months,

his

solemn promise

elapsed,

Duck

should receive a skin of the

I

Two

question at St. Petersburg.

in

years have since

and the Duck has not yet been heard

Next morning we

within

that,

of!

to

Kosh-Agatch,

and, crossing the Tchouia River, which

we now found

fordable, followed

We

it

said

good-bye

down along

Ongoudai

the

path.

pitched camp, after a twenty-five versts' march,

Kouekhatonar, where a small

at the first station, called

log hut was built for the few travellers or tradesmen

who happened

to pass that way.

Kosh-Agatch

Plain

my

chance of showing her licher at

to

The

off.

bring

Happily

knee-deep at

left

with Littledale's

bird

in

it

it

I

the

was afforded another

wife

skill

the water stone dead, and

cold.

we

a Wild Swan which was swimming on

a hundred yards

started

Before

dropped

its

Manna lake

neck into

forthwith stripped and

back, though the lake was very

was shallow, and

the mud.

We

Kouekhatonar, and were

I

waded through

only remained that night

off next

morning

at 9 a.m.,

branching away from the Tchouia Valley northwards


A LONG AND WEARY MARCH up a steep

lateral

Snow had

valley.

fallen

during the night, and the ponies found

work

get

to

The

on.

changed.

entirely

denoted that

'95

it

heavily slippery

aspect of the country had

Numerous

we were now

trees

on either side

entering

wooded

the

)KNS START FOR ONGOUDAI.

country

;

pine,

frequent.

and

larch,

About eleven

some 8,000

feet

high

;

birch

o'clock

were

the

we reached

most a pass

on either side were rows of

rocky ledges, probably inhabited only by Ibex.

The

descent from the pass was a long and weary one, and as our horses were tired after their long march,

decided, at

1

p.m., to

camp on

we

the banks of a small


AFTER WILD SHEEP

296

mountain

torrent,

Karasou.

Our

THE ALTAI

IN

which

Kalmuks

our

the timber-line, and next morning-

and

dale

surveying crossed

steep slope

and

soon,

On

plateaux. in sight,

the

had

continue

till

way

our

we reached

inhabit

it,

from our

higher

the

a couple of female Ibex

The

and we passed them unnoticed.

to

the

leave the horses very

to

Very

above was broken and desolate.

seemed

on

country

almost perpendicularly

naturally to

took

companion

accompanied by Taba, ascended a

I,

rising

We

camp.

and

stream

the

started, Little-

My

neighbourhood.

the

whilst

right,

we

about 4 a.m., with the intention of

at

I,

called

were accordingly pitched on

tents

and

we saw

all

little

that

came

country

game

day was

a couple of young Ducks feeding on a patch of grass in

a large corrie below

cold, to

and

I

The wind was

As we descended

camp.

banks

us.

was half frozen when

at

full

speed,

at the ankle, the

my

foot

I

the precipitous grassy slipped,

was a bad

result

bitterly

decided to return

and,

sprain.

turning

Luckily

we were

within a few hundred yards of camp, and

though

suffered agony,

I

tent,

where

dale

came

had

shot,

He

I

lay in

in at six,

with

bed

I

was able

for the

to get

back

next few days.

to

my

Little-

bringing the head of an Ibex he

horns

had been on very

measuring thirty-four inches. difficult

ground, and had not


DENSE FOREST come

297

He

across any desirable trophy.

had met with

a Roe-deer in the woods, but had missed him.

The I

next day snow lay thick around the camp.

naturally remained in bed with

and Littledale thought out,

weather

the

it

being

my

sprained

foot,

hardly worth while going

most

unfavourable,

with

autumn showers.

occasional cold

On August

22nd

Littledale

went out

weather having somewhat improved.

early,

the

In the evening

he gave us an account of what he had done, and

though he had come across a herd of thirteen Ibex, with a fine old buck amongst them, he had been un-

owing

able to approach them,

to the shiftiness of the

The higher ground he found was very

wind.

to that of

Cashmere

;

similar

the scenery quite lovely in the

region he had explored, and the locality well suited to Ibex, though the inaccessibility of the crags

prevented him from examining

Next to start

my

day,

down

struck at

foot being slightly better,

we decided

the Bashkaous River.

Camp was

to

10 a.m., and

about three hours.

dense forests

we had 1

p.m.

to

;

We

we descended were now

in

the valley for

the midst of

the path was at times so narrow that

grope our way through the woods.

we came

Bashkaous

had often

carefully every ravine.

to the junction of the

rivers,

and found the

At

Karasou and

latter to

be a wide,


AFTER WILD SHEEP

298

THE ALTAI

IN

clear stream flowing through dense tracts of timber.

The

higher

had now vanished, giving place

hills

We

low, cedar-covered boulders. at

the

snow peaks

took a

in the distance

That day we

and halted

hours,

five miles

at 3 p.m.

come

in,

for

another couple of

on the banks of the

Some

to

when one

them,

to

his

The

arm.

wonder what

Kalmuks

of the

brought us the news that Joseph had

pony and broken

had not

of the packs

and we were beginning

had happened

river,

Here we pitched camp

lower down.

on a nice green lawn. yet

We

across several fresh tracks of Maral stags.

proceeded down the main valley

some

glimpse

last

behind us as we

entered the heart of the woodlands.

came

to

fallen

off

his

doctor presently

turned up with the invalid, and told us that the arm

was broken above the

The

wrist.

fall

had been

occasioned by an unexpected jerk of his treacherous

We

pony.

were very sorry

poor Abbas, and

for

decided to send him straight back to Ongoudai,

company with able to ride. ling,

In the afternoon

and turned

in

early

we caught a few Gray-

in

order to start on the

following morning after Maral. both,

search

many

Littledale

of

in

the doctor, as soon as he should be

At 4

a.m.

we were

and myself, scouring the woods

Roe-deer or Stags.

tracks of the former, but

I

noticed

in

a great

saw nothing the whole


INVITATION FROM THE ZAISSAN day.

had spied a

Littledale

above him, but had

mile

owing-

to

the

Stag about half a

fine

approach him,

to

failed

of his

carelessness

299

who, on

shikari,

arriving near the spot where they had noticed the

animal lying, went on without precaution, and startled the beast, which they heard get up with a crash in the

dense underwood close by. fine

and warm, but

friend the Zaissan,

it

The weather was now Our

almost froze at sunset.

who was accompanying

strongly induced us to visit his

home on

us,

now

the Oulagan

River, a small tributary of the Bashkaous, promising

We

us plenty of Maral in the neighbourhood.

were

and made

naturally delighted to accept his invitation,

a long march next day clown the main river (about

We

thirty versts). in

some

of the

fished on the way,

my

wife and

I,

deeper pools we came across, and

caught several Grayling, averaging a pound each, but

on the whole our fishing

Bashkaous was not

in the

very successful, though we came across pools.

The

hills

had now

practically

and the woods grew thinner pasture

ground

settlements were

stretched

;

large

before

more numerous.

we saw some smoky Kalmuk

us,

many

likely

disappeared, tracts

and

Now

of low

Kalmuk

and again

yourts, with

two or

three haystacks in the vicinity (for the hay had just

been gathered), as well as many horse and goat skins


AFTER WILD SHEEP

3oo

THE ALTAI

IN

hanging on long poles as a pagan

we had

if

The

sacrifice to their

The weather was now warmer

gods.

Oulagan

from winter to summer quarters.

shifted

next day

we

River

pitched falls

camp

into

The

again.

In the evening fact

we

that

we should

Next

we

which

the valley, in

some

places,

country had entirely

savage aspect, and the scenery, were

cedar woods, bore a

another

Bashkaous,

Here

had grown narrow and gorge-like

its

where the

at the place

the

twenty miles lower down.

became wider

than ever, as

it

lost

not for the

most commonplace character.

tried for Roe-deer, but in vain; in

could hardly realise the Zaissan's statement find

Stags

day, however,

in the

neighbourhood.

we went up

the Oulagan Valley

and reached the Zaissan's house, which,

in

comparison

what we had seen before, was quite a comfortable

to

lodging.

His wife and children flocked around

and an exchange of presents took

place.

us,

presented

I

our powerful ally with the big revolver that had been stolen

from

me by

the two runaway Kalmuks, and

which the Zaissan had managed somehow I

presume

to retrieve

after a severe swishing of the culprits.

;

On

my

eager inquiry about the number and whereabouts

of

Maral

in

the vicinity,

I

was staggered by the

Zaissan's answer that there were seventeen.

He

had

been talking the whole time of

an

en-

Maral

in


PROMISE OF GOOD SPORT Having accepted a Bear

closure.

301

which the

skin

Zaissan had kindly offered me, with his good wishes,

we bade him

down

hurried back

on

farewell

following

the

day,

and

the Oulagan in search of wilder

Our days being now numbered, we were

country.

disappointed at having lost our time up the Oulagan River, though a visit to the Zaissan

could do,

if

continually

him

to our

our way, as

shown

Orders had been given by

us.

we passed

mile march,

his yourt,

we were

as

and

after a fifteen-

camp

pitching our

at

the

Kara Kodjur stream with the Bash-

we were met by

who was now pluck,

we

least

former demitcha (Jacob) to meet us on

junction of the kaous,

was the

only to thank him for the civility he had

in his

this old

own

acquaintance of ours,

country, and

and quite another man

what we had seen of him

in

in

seemed

full

of

comparison with

He

Mongolia.

gave us

a brilliant description of the country at the head of the

Kara Kodjur

River, and told us that

not only in Maral and

Roe

known as Sougoun, the

(in

Kalmuk

latter as

Moose, which he called Boulan.

it

abounded

the former

Ic/ik),

but also

is

in

This made us most

eager to continue our journey towards this Eldorado,

though from experience we

Kalmuk

statements.

felt

rather mistrustful of

Jacob had provided us with a

couple of native hunters,

whom we met

on the follow-


AFTER WILD SHEEP

302

way up

ing day on our

we

he inquired whether

sure to have to put our

On August

some hope

the

rifles to

we were

test.

River, and found that the

Having been

wilder.

woods round camp swarmed with Roe-

told that the

our

of success, for

we pitched camp some twenty

29th

scenery had grown decidedly

deer,

seemed

of these

could shoot, and said

Kara Kodjur

miles up the

One

stream.

a sharp fellow, and gave us

THE ALTAI

IN

we went

new men

both of

out,

us,

in

the afternoon with

search of game, but returned

in

in

the

we were again on

the

evening without having seen a single beast.

Next morning,

at

9

a.m.,

move, following the banks of the stream.

It

long march, though the Kalmuks had said close to pass,

at

prospect.

lake

sources.

its

about

2

About

known

On

p.m.,

reaching the top of a low

we came upon

half a mile

as the

was a

we were

a

beautiful

ahead of us lay a large

The

Sarry-Kol Lake.

hills

all

round were covered with dense forests of pine, cedar,

and especially larch on every

side.

Large glades of

low, thick bushes of a reddish hue lay here in their midst,

reminding one greatly, were

the trees, of the Scottish Highlands.

and there it

not for

In the distance-

rose a higher range of mountains, half-powdered with fresh

snow,

in

an immense semicircle.

The whole

picture decidedly bore a touch of loneliness and wild


LAKE SARRY-KOL desolation.

303

In places the broad stretches of timber

had been destroyed by wood

and the grand

fires,

branchless stems rose hi<>h over the boulders, causing

them

to resemble the

backs of gigantic Porcupines.

After a long search for a suitable place,

we

pitched

OUR CAMP ON THE BANKS OF LAKE SAKRY-KOI

camp was

close to the

dull

drizzle.

and

cold,

We

were

banks of the

The weather

lake.

and towards evening in

it

began

and though the rutting season had not yet begun, was not improbable that we might in

the open at early dawn.

of our

camp

to

to

great hope of finding Stags,

I

be about 6,000

find

made feet.

some

it

feedino-

out the altitude It

rained almost


AFTER WILD SHEEP

3 o4

all

and as we

night,

THE ALTAI

IN

started, Littledale

and

I,

at 5 a.m.

next morning, an icy cold wind chilled us to the bone.

The

hills

tents, it

and

were white with snow, almost down I

certainly should

had not been

hunters that for

we

for the

have remained

there

half-burnt

white

with

of

poles

snow,

On

country

the

As we

reaching a

before

bit of

about half a mile ahead of out,

higher

boulder

necessary, and

to our

sight of a

Roe-buck

found

impossible

I

it

and confidently followed Taba

we now attempted.

the approach

greater

As we reached

precaution

we crawled up

a

low-

my new

open country,

us.

us

through the

toiled

Taba both caught

make him

and

The ground was

we were soon thoroughly drenched up

hunter and

to

followed

of the lake,

which rose here and

trees.

giving

fantastic appearance.

knees.

if

charge of a Kalmuk, ascended

a long, slanting slope, out of

bushes,

We

should get some sport.

in

bed

repeated assurances of our

some time the northern bank

leaving our horses

to our

in

seemed

to the top of

it,

to

in

a

be

but on

peeping over found that the animal had disappeared.

Taba

On

attributed this

to

the shiftiness of the wind.

reaching the spot where the

we found

its

resolved

my

ceeded.

We

Roe had been

fresh tracks on the snow, a fact

seen,

which

doubts on the subject, and so we pro-

wandered through the woods

in

this


NEW MODE OF HUNTING way

for a

long time, peeping cautiously into likely

glades between the trunks of

We

success.

stags, but that

and as

I

;째5

larches, but without

tall

came across a few was

was by

The wind was

all.

this

tracks of

Maral

bitterly cold,

time thoroughly drenched,

I

SIBERIAN ROE-BUCK. (Capreotus />ygargus.)

decided to return to camp, which after

midday.

On

the whole

of hunting most difficult

I

we reached soon

found

but slight chance in favour of the dale,

day,

this

new mode

and aggravating, and with

who had gone westward,

hunter.

returned late

and reported that he had only come

Littlein

the

across three


AFTER WILD SHEEP

306

IN

THE ALTAI

Roe-deer docs, and although he had scoured large tracts

had met with

timber,

of

very

few

signs

of

Stags.

Next

September

day,

daybreak.

starting" at

we exchanged ground,

ist,

was a

It

and

frosty morning,

a thick mist covered the whole country, clearing up

As we advanced through

towards 6 a.m. nothing came

in

sight for a couple of hours, during

which time we had journeyed the lake.

my

down

sat

I

to

On more

careful examination

I

be two Maral hinds with their fawns.

Jacob with that

I

me

should

that clay

shoot

;

at

matter,

amongst the

my

least

other hunter

trees

had taken

a

hind.

naturally

I

we were

discussing

suddenly pointed out

some 200 yards ahead

I

saw

it

was a doe.

of us

a

As soon

as

But

not to be our last disappointment that day.

made our way through place

came almost up

me

only just affording

this

was

As we

the high bushes, which at this to our necks, a

buck and a doe

suddenly sprang out and disappeared without giving

the

in

found them I

Roe-deer with two kids quietly feeding. the animal moved,

corrie,

the fellow was very anxious

restrained his impetuosity, and as the

from

five or six miles

spy a broad, open

glass revealed four animals feeding slowly

distance. to

As

the bushes,

in

a

second,

the slio-htest chance of a shot, and

me

the glimpse of a pair of

fine


VALLEY OF THE KATOUN RIVER

A

horns.

the

of

me

further on Jacob pointed out to

little

tracks

307

Moose

a

(Boulan),

and

sure

there,

enough, on the mud, were the well-known footprints

!

On

our way back two more Roe-deer sprang out of

the

brushwood a few yards

the

same

yet returned, but

and

at

had sent

came

head of a

we decided

to

day,

to

entrenchments round them

On at

9

buck,

up towards

cleared

it

on

the

Unfortunately,

poured continuously the whole of next

and we were obliged

water,

fair

have another try

following day before striking camp. it

in

had not

saying that he had seen

Rain now came on, but as

however,

was back

I

Littledale

in the.

in

noon

buck, but had failed to get near him.

fine

evening,

at

disheartened.

p.m. he

3

another

and

result as before,

camp thoroughly

front of us, but with

in

keep in

to our tents

and dig

order to carry off the

and keep the insides dry. the

morning of September 3rd we struck camp,

a.m., in

north-westerly direction, and again

a

pitched tents at

1

p.m., after a fifteen-mile march,

the banks of a small stream at a place natives as Yulientash.

We

known

now found

again in the valley of the Katoun River.

hunters

still

to the

had crossed a low divide

separating two watersheds, and

here was very similar to that

on

we had

just

promised us sport with

ourselves

The

country

left,

and our

Maral.

The


AFTER WILD SHEEP

308

IN

THE ALTAI

ground, indeed, seemed suitable for them a range

of us ran

snowclad

of

hills,

westwards

;

whilst on

all

other sides the low, undulating country was covered

with

woods and great

fir

of

the

stopped.

As

sides

stretches of reddish brush-

Towards evening, clouds

wood.

higher it

mountains,

it

was not

until after

get

in

search

of game.

nothing but a Capercaillie.

bark, in

but

had

rain

On

day

that

saw

I

found tracks of Deer,

noticed

no fresh ones.

signs

Maral

of

branches.

unsuccessful

make

to

had succeeded

Littledale

and had shot the doe by

stalking a couple of Roe,

as

the

of the following

small trees, which were stripped of their

mistake, unable thick

but

out the horns amidst the

Another attempt next day proved previous

the

as

suggested that we might find

ones.

game

in

Taba had the direction

of the higher ground westwards, towards which

now

directed our course.

bad

state of health,

after her.

As

for

Owing

the only living creatures

p.m., thoroughly

remained

to look

scrambled half-way up the

I

I

mountain range, where

saw during the whole day

were a female Ibex with a 2

we

to Mrs. Littledale's

my companion

me,

steep slopes of the western

at

the

luncheon that we could

I

however, and occasionally Stags on

hung on

snowed the whole

morning, out

still

kid.

sick

of

returned to

I

this

camp

God-forsaken


MEET TWO EUROPEANS we unanimously decided

country, and to

make a

309

in

the evening

general retreat to Ongoudai.

Next day a long march

of about twenty miles over

broad stretches of moorland and a low pass brought us to the banks of a small tributary of the

River,

we

where

pitched

camp

at

Katoun

The

p.m.

3

weather was now evidently breaking up, and we were anxious to get back to

all

next day versts)

Pass,

down a on

(about forty

small stream, and reached the Sakljar

Ongoudai-Kosh-Agatch

the

As we descended

after 2 p.m.

the

Consequently,

civilisation.

we made a very long march

path,

a

little

the steep slope into

Katoun Valley we met a caravan with two Euro-

peans,

who were on

found

them

to

their

Doctor Bomuller, with words.

They

way

be Germans

to

Kosh-Agatch.

— Major

We

Wissmann and

whom we exchanged

were intending to cross the

a few

Mongolian

plateaux into the Zaissan's country, and then proceed, via Tashkend, to Merv.

We

warned the well-known

African explorer of the difficulties he would have to encounter, owing to the late season and roughness of the

autumn months on the high

Altai,

him a good journey, parted with the

we had come

and wishing

first

Europeans

At 4 p.m. we

across for a long time.

reached the ferry over the Katoun, which we crossed,

and camped on the steppe close

to

its

Next day Ongoudai was reached

banks. in

the afternoon,


AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI

3io

the last few miles

being accomplished

which had been kindly placed friend the Zassedatel

away on

leave.

entire journey

iarantass,

in

at our disposal by our

Meyer, who had himself gone

Here we discovered

we had

that during our

miscalculated the days of the

week, and that Mrs. Littledale, who, as she supposed,

had been keeping Sundays most

religiously,

mistake been observing Fridays instead that our trophies had

safely

arrived,

had by

We

!

found

and had been

carted on to Barnaoul.

IKIMKWARD

The

IIOUM).

next day was entirely devoted to paying off

our men, and making preparations

back to Barnaoul. demitcka,

and

on

We the

for

the journey

bade farewell to Jacob the ioth

Ongfoudai en route for Bisk.

September

finally

left




HOMEWARD BOUND On

14th

the

we were met

at

Boldyreff and the Ispravnik,

3i3

Barnaoul by General

who

greeted us warmly

and complimented us on our safe return from our

We

journey.

of the Governor of the Altai, civilly

in

long-

remained a couple of days as guests

who helped

our preparations for the

start,

us most

and

after a

OUR SPECIAL LUGGAGE VAN FOR TROrHIES AND PACKAGES.

hearty good-bye,

Here

fresh

we reached

trouble

registering- of our luggage.

over forty-six poods. cussion,

we were

the

Ob

River a day

awaited us with

The

regard

the

horns alone weighed

After a long and weary dis-

supplied with a special luggage van,

and on the 16th September slowly steamed wards Europe.

later.

to

off to-


,

APPENDIX OF PLANTS FROM THF ALTAI MOUNTAINS

LIST

Collected by Mr. and Mrs.

St.

George

Received January,

Anemone

Pulsatilla, L.

Ranunculus aquaiilis,

Mu

long/mulls, C. A.

,,

C

pulchellus,

Lychnis apclala, L.

rr.

Mey.

Stellaria

A. Mey.

gramine a,

Cera stiu in

L.

lithospei -m ifoliu in

Fisch.

Aconitum napellus, L.

Cerastium trigynum,

Anthora, L.

,,

L.

Seguieri, Yill.

,,

sulphureus, Soland.

,,

Littledale

Clayton/a sibirica, L.

plantaginifolius,

, ,

R.

898

Dianthus supcrbus,

L. (2 forms).

Cymbalaria, Pursh.

,,

1

Trollius asiaticus, L.

Cherlcria sedoides, L.

Papaver alpinum,

Silene tenuis,

Corydalis

striata,

L.

Steph.

,,

Parrya exscapa, Ledeb. Cardamine pralensis,

Draba

glacialis,

,,

incana, L. /u'rta,

Chorispora

Geranium ulassovianum,

O nolo ycb is

Hedysarum polymorphum, Ledeb.

sibirica, 1)

Capsella Tliomsoni,

Fisch.

sp.

Astragalus alpinus, L.

L.

C.

sp.

Smebncskia calycina, C. A. Mey.

Hesperis

\\'ilid.

repens, Patrin.

Bicbcrsttinia adora, Steph.

L.

Adams.

„

Yill.

sp.

Hook,

sp.

Oxytropis,

f.

Dryas

?

2 sp.

ociopetala, L.

Spiraea hypericifolia, L.

Viola altaica, Pall. 3i4


APPENDIX Glaux maritima,

Potentilla anserina, L.

L.

multifield, L.

Androsace

grandifolia, L.

Rhododendron daouricum,

,,

.,

3i5

septentrionalis, L.

Sibbaldia procumbens, L.

Campanula

Saxifraga melaleuca, Fisch.

Pokmonium cxruleum, Gentiana

,,

oppositifolia, L.

,,

Hircn/us, L.

,,

Parnassia palustris, L.

Sedum Rhodiola,

D C. I )

DC.

leucanthus,

,,

C.

M.

L.

B. L.

altaica, Pall.

barbata, Froel. tenella, Fries.

prostrata, Hacnke.

(juadrifidinn, Pall.

Umbilicus spinosus,

Steveni,

Olivier/',

,,

Griseb.

Swertia perennis, L.

Myosotis sylvatica, Ehrh.

Epilobium latifolium, L.

Eritrichium villosum, Bunge.

Galium verum,

Castilleia pallida,

L.

Leontopodium alpinum, Cass. sibiricum, Cass.

,,

Pedicularis verticillaia, L.

Erigeron, alpinus, L. yafi-/^'

near

jt/.

5".

Marrubium

eriostachyum, Benth.

Leonurus lanatus,

DC.

Senecio flammeus, ,,

foliosa, L.

,,

alpiua, L.

,,

comosa, L.

alpinus, L.

Saussurea pygmaea, Spreng.

Artemisia rupeslris, L. glacialis, Willd.

Pers.

Dracocephalum palmalum, Steph.

goringensis,

Hemsl.

Kunth.

Veronica spicata, L.

,,

grandiflorum, L.

Thymus Serpyllum,

L.

i-W/.v Myrsinites, L.

Brayi, Ledeb.

Pyrethrum pulchellum, Ledeb.

Ephedra monostachya,

Scorzonera radiata, Fisch.

B liturn

virgatum, L.

Leoutodon autumnale, L.

Rumex

Acelosa, L.

Youngia pygmaea, Ledeb.

Polygonum alpinum,

,,

diversifolium, Ledeb.

Statice spcciosa, L.

Primula ,,

L.

All.

,,

viviparum, L.

,,

Bistorta, L.

nivalis, Pall.

/«i

farinosa, L.

Lloydia serotina, Salisb.

Tigridia, Bunge.


.

APPENDIX

3*6

Hordenm

Allium silnricum, L. Semenovii, Regel.

,,

tenuissimum, Ledeb.

Eriophorum Carex

Scheuchzeri,

rigida,

violaceum,

Boiss.

and

Hohen.

„

Hoppe.

Good. Wahl.

,,

stenophylla,

,,

melanantha, Turcz.

„

melanantha, C. A. Mey.

Stipa orientalis, Trin.

Bromus

inermis, Leyss.

Agropyrum Woodsia

cristatum, Bess.

iloensis,

R. Br.

Cy stopfer is fragilis, B er n h Equisetum arvense,

var.

alpinum.

Deyeuxia, near D. lapponica.

Bryum,

cf.

Trisetum subspicatum, Beauv.

Mnium

rostratui/i,

Triticum caninum, var. altaicum,

Amblystegium Jluviatile, Schpr.

Griseb.

Hyp nu in

B. caespitosum. Schwaeg.

uncinatum, Hedw.


INDEX Abbas, Joseph,

2,

100, 161, 162,

breaks his arm, 298. Abduldho (a Khirghiz chief), 240, 285

Asia, 6, 15, 16, 150, 227.

33, 61, 62, 92,

5,

177, 180, 230, 253,

boundary

of,

15.

Asiatic tribes, 211.

;

Aurochs,

14.

275.

Adar

Ak

kotchkor

(kill

Baggage, 6. Bain-Khairkhan

sheep), 102.

(white), 60.

Ak-sou (white water), 143. Akmolinsk country, 24. Alexander I. the Beloved,

162,

Bain-Tchagan, 28, 29.

107,

112,

4,

153,

97,

100,

103.

139, 277. 118, 124.

20, 23, 25, 26, 31, 33, 34,

departure from, 35, 39, 3io,3i3-

83. 293.

36, 47, 61, 241.

Altai district, 25, 26, 31, 33, 34, 36, 49, 53, 54, 56, 78.

mountains, 1,2,14,45,54,215,

peaks, 47.

Museum,

welfare and education of

people

221, 309.

Bashkaous River,

pine forests, 31.

scenery, 63.

,,

sheep.

See Ovis.

13,

301.

15,

Beliou mountains, 182, 192.

sheep.

;

of, 34.

297, 299, 300.

Belbess (don't know), 112, 1S5.

Altaiskoie, 48.

Antelopes, 89,

34.

Valley, 225, 293.

Bears,

Altaisky Zassedatel,

289

the,

147,

192.

Barnaoul,

Alps, 95.

288,

Hills,

189,

Bain-Tchagan Valley,

Alpine flowers, 68.

Alpheraki (a Russian naturalist),

Amnion

182,

180,

58.

150,

sight

183,

a

Bia River, 193,

herd,

our whole bag, 290. A niHope gutturosa, 89,

228 232

Bielukha glaciers,

;

,,

150,

33, 36, 45, 47.

Bielokourikha, 47. 39, 43.

range, 68.

Birch trees, 25, 295.

151,

Birds on the Volga,

183.

Arkhar (ewe), 60, Ash trees, 200.

stream, 194.

.,

See Ovis.

9.

Bisk, 3^, 36, 39, 42, 45, 47, 56, 61, 310.

95, 161, 165, 108.

Black game, 7

1

5.


INDEX

u8

Boldyreff,( General, 25, 31- 5,241,313.

Madame,

Boma

(a

Cumberland, Major,

87,

2,

1,

100,

140.

33.

dangerous path),

67, 78, 79.

Czar of Russia, 240.

Bomiiller, Doctor, 309.

Boro-Burgassy River,

142, 181, 182.

Dain-Kol

Valley, 169.

Boun, or Ibex,

,,

Deer parks

sibirica, 34, 82,

10,

1

18, 220,

226, 232-5, 237-9, 250-3,

<

56,

13,

221,

13.

153,

288, 299.

Demitcha, 92, 94, 139,

162, 168, 201,

202, 210, 219, 225, 240, 242, 283,

297.

Caucasus,

6, 91,

Cedar woods,

Djeran, 150.

Dutchinas, or communes,

Cashmere,

32, 47, 48, 301, 302.

Eagles, 108.

Eastern hospitality,

150, 152.

Emperor

proposed route from,

of, 179,

203, 240. 26.

Ekaterinburg,

23.

Ekaterinburg,

S.S., 9.

177, 213, 214,

Ekaterinburg Shooting Club, Elk,

13, 15,

Europe,

56.

frontier, 99, 144.

territory,

124,

141,

142,

1

1

1,

16.

15, 16, 45, 88, 221.

boundary

return

to,

European Russia,

170, 203, 241.

Cold intense,

14.

301, 307.

Ermak, the adventurer,

216.

Chinese, 55,

16.

Elizabeth, Empress, 23-

trade with, 54, 55. 171,

2,3-

Siberian galleys,

China, 92, 147, 203.

170,

56, 5S.

150.

Central Russia, 41.

Chinamen,

142,

Dogs, 53, 215. Ducks, 60, 83, 89, 293, 294, 296. round Kainsk, 24. „

297, 298, 300-2, 304-8.

Caravan, our, 92.

Chamois,

19, 20, 92,

3,

140,

284, 301, 310.

8.

Cap) coins pygargus,

Cariboo,

1,

132-4,

108,

224, 253, 256, 258, 259, 266, 286, 1

275-9, 290, 295-7, 308; sight a 1

the Altai, 53.

161, 162, 168, 189, 190, 199, 208,

Capercaillie, 14, 308.

1

in

DemidofT, Princess,

Camels, 27, 285.

herd,

192-5, 198,

201, 290.

245.

107,

221,

Lake, 214, 218.

Daniel, 173, 175, 176,

82.

Brahminy Geese, 60, 108, Brown Bears, 13. Bunge (a botanist), 34.

Cap) a

district, 215, 220.

of, 15.

313. 34, 41.

122, 161.

Constantine, Father, 65.

Fir trees, 94.

Copper,

Flowers, 32, 68, 140, 161, 213.

13.

Cranes, 60, Cristo (Author's valet),

5,

92, 98,

139, 143, 161, 168, 204, 243.

Gabriel, Mr. Littledale's servant, 6, 92, 139, 168, 204.


INDEX Kaams, or Kalmuk

Geese, 83, 89. Gold near Taguil,

24.

182,

189, 208,

209, 222,

223, 276, 298, 299.

Grebes, Eared, 89.

Greek Church,

Kalmuk

country, 56, 65, 276.

matrons, 26.

,,

peace offering,

priest, 75-8, 82, 85, 86.

,,

punishing one,

Kalmuks,

57.

Gultcha (wild ram),

Valley, 97, 98, 107, 112, 116,

121, 124, 132, 133, 140, 143,

151

;

106,

115,

124,

138-40, 143, 150,

151,

153,

161,

164, 168, 169, 172, 184, 185, 200,

202, 204, 205, 207, 209, 210, 212, 215, 217, 220, 225, 226, 229, 230, 233, 240-2, 250, 255, 258, 259, 263, 265, 272, 276, 283, 284, 286, 289,

springs, 47.

296, 298-302, 304.

Iaksht (good), 60. (bad), 60.

Ian miiss (big horn), 220,

60, 106.

no;

discover a herd,

221,

226, 232-4,

Ibex, 34, 82, 118,

90-6,

104,

102,

144,

277, 285, 2S6.

Iaman

87.

26, 32, 45, 53, 54, 56-62,

start for, 153, 164, 232, 253,

Hares, 100, 193, 224, 245. Horses, 86, 143-5.

Hot

5,

71, 72, 300.

65, 66, 68, 75-8, 82, 85-7,

60.

98, 99,

Happy

priests, 76-8.

Kainsk, 23, 24.

13, 16.

Granaries of Siberia and Russia, Grayling-,

3J9

235,

Kama, 10. Kamlanie (a ceremony), Kara (black), 60.

76.

Kara-Adyr River,

See Sum-

224.

dairik.

Karaimaty River, 230. Kara Kodjur, 301, 302.

our 237-9, 250-3, 275-9, 281 whole bag, 290, 291, 295-7, 308. Imperial Geographical Society, 4.

Karaoul Suok, 162. Kara-sou (black water),

Inia River, a small tributary of the

Kasan, the great Tartar town,

;

Katoun, (no),

Katoun Valley, 1

50.

Iron mountains,

13.

Ispravnik (chief of the police), 26, 27, 29, 31, 32, 40, 48, 49, 56, 60,

85,91,313.

Ivan the Terrible,

16.

Jacob, the dcmitcha, 225, 301, 306,

Jakshi Joseph.

(well done), 106.

See Abbas.

Juniper, 200.

309.

River, 36, 45, 47, 66, 7 307, 309

13, 17.

Iron-ore at Taguil,

66, 75,

9,

10.

71.

lodro, 75.

Iok

143, 296-7.

Kha,

169, 170,

;

1 ,

72,

crossing the, 67.

172,

173,

174,

179,

Kirghiz, 26, 58, 60,

117,

124,

150,

214, 216, 223.

Kiachta, 26.

185, 202, 203, 211, 212, 221, 222,

240-2, 276, 283, 284; encampment, 203, 218, 284. Kitchinek kotchkor (young rams), 147.

Kobdo town, 201.

26, 55,

174, 175, 181,


INDKX

320

Kobdo

16-8,

122,

lakes, 216, 218.

1

merchants,

142, 144,

river,

172.

142,

208, 210,

199-201,

192,

215,

212,

217,

31-3,

[62,

16S, 171, 173, 174, 178, 180,

183,

224-6, 228-32, 238,

239, 243, 244, 246, 250, 251, 253, 256, 258, 259, 266, 267, 272, 275,

Pass, 48.

277, 282, 285, 286, 289, 290, 293,

25, 26, 36, 58, 62,68,

84, 88-90,

161,

294, 296-9, 304, 305,

162, 177, 180, 201, 230, 231, 241,

record head, 260, 261.

71, 72,

82,

138-40,

184, 189, 190, 192, 193, 199, 202,

Valley, 184, 199, 225.

Kosh-Agatch,

1

I53>

'54, 161,

204, 207-9,

218, 227, 238.

Komar

124,

'5P

140,

Littledale, Mrs.,

242, 253, 285, 290, 291, 293, 294,

307, 308

3, 5, 19, 20,

;

32, 33,

45, 61, 92, 107, 108, 140, 142, 153,

309.

Kosh-Agatch

plain,

5,

161, 162, 168, 171, 177, 178, 189,

150, 184, 276,

288, 294.

190, 199, 209, 258,

plateau, 81-3.

Lob-Nor, 218. Lomatchevsky, General, Lubimoff Company, 9.

steppe, 293. Koslot'f,

Lieutenant, 218.

bar

Kotchkor

are

(there

259, 266, 308,

310.

Wild

25, 26, 30.

Sheep), 87, 100, 112.

Kotchkor (wild ram).

See Ovis.

Mannlicher, 224, 259, 294. Maral deer, 34, 49, 5°, 53,

Kouekhatonar, 82, 294. Kouickhtonar, 82, 294.

Koukouriou Pass,

298-301, 303,

293.

Koumiss (fermented mare's

milk),

23.

Kuldja Valley, Kurai „ „

Kvas

1

3,

Medicine made from horns, Melons, 24. Merv, 309. Meyer, Mr., 58, 62, 66, 77,

223, 295,

302, 3°5-

Pedebour (a botanist), 34. Legend of the so-called

"

Mines at Taguil, 20. Mining people's cruelty,

Father

Mohammedans,

133, 154,

Mongolia,

.93-8. 2,

55.

85,

310.

28.

Lepet (Littlcdale's hunter)

45, 46, 100, 193, 202,

224.

16.

250, 253, 268.

Parch, 47, 48, 94, 200, 2

no,

5,6, 19, 32, 33, 45,

55,61,89,90,92,99,107,108,110,

306,

1

Marmots,

Russian beverage),

Littledale, Air.,

horns found, 116, 244.

50.

steppe, 81.

Theodor,"

country, 290.

some seen, 10. Maralnik (enclosure for Maral)

range, 81.

Pake Valley,

„ ,,

4.

hills, 68.

(a

305,

308.

60.

Kourgan,

54,

116, 220, 221,242, 278, 290,

J

277.

2,

16.

58.

26, 78, 94,

100,

115, 123, 131, 142, 151,

49,


INDEX Mongolian

frontier, 91, 107.

plateau,

,,

thunderstorm, 259.

Mongols,

Ovis a )imon, find heads on

Altai, 141, 148, 277.

13, 15, 301, 307.

Moscow,

Mus

a herd of ewes and

young,

26, 56, 78, 124, 142, 214,

217, 219, 241.

Moose,

river-

bed, 100.

84, 139, 309.

5,

32:

100.

rams rams

stalked, 104.

two

fine

located, 103.

heads

se-

cured, 105.

3, 5, 6, 29.

204,

measurement of the two heads, 105. height at shoulder and

Pass, 230, 256, 263, 266.

Littledale secures five

citilus, 46.

Muss-Taou

hills,

189,

200,

211, 214-8, 220, 221, 228.

size, 106.

Nam Daba

Napoleon's invasion of Russia,

Newsky,

Dr., 4,

5,

173,

heads, 107.

found at altitude of

Nicholas (our interpreter), 65, 92, 139, 168,

28.

92, 298. 91,

179, 202, 204,

9,000

feet, 108.

a herd of ewes spied, 108, 112, 169.

211, 220-3.

a fine old ram sighted

Nicholas, Emperor, 29.

Nijni-Novgorod,

and 6, 10.

shot, 113, 114.

eighteen

Nikolaevsky, 30.

cross

the

stream, 115.

Ob

River, 20, 25, 27, 30, 31, 33, 36,

39,45,47, 313-

head, 115, 191. horns in bed of

find

Olonur Valley, 230.

Omak,

measurements of fine

stream,

23.

Ongoudai-Kosh-Agatch path, 294, 3°9-

1

16.

a large herd sighted, 118.

spy a ram, 251.

Ongudai, 33-5,

45, 47, 55, 56, 58-61,

65, 66, 71,98, 162, 286,

290, 295, 298, 309, 310. „

reach, 310.

start from, 295, 298, 309.

Oulagan River, Ovis amnion,

242, 299-301.

unsuccessful

stalks,

two

fair

heads, 131.

one found dead,

I.

130.

Littledale gets a fair

„ ,,

length

ewe, 95. length of horns lying

of

horns

on ground, Y

the

in

a small head, 130.

country, 95, 221, 289. first sighted, 95.

rams

river-bed, 125.

129, 138, 148.

Valley, 300.

fifteen

96.

in

head, 133.

herd of sixteen seen, 133-

ground strewed with horns, 140, 228, 229, 244.


INDEX

32:

Ovis

a,

n won, sheep horns on shores of small lake, 144. ,

Ovis ammon, spy three rams, 268. six old rams, 275. „

seven young ramsand

Littledale

two rams,

sight

gets

two

good heads, 275. spy some ewes, 277.

ewes, 147. 148,

spy ten rams, 286.

,

sightaherdofsix,i5o.

our bag, 290, 291.

,

sight a herd of rams,

,

sight a herd of fifteen

,

199, 254, 256.

Pamir steppes,

151, 194.

,

,

a

rams, 155, 156.

Pekin, 174.

ram

Perm,

killed, 160, 249.

Littledale

a

sights

young ram and ewes, 161.

gets

one

Pine forests,

5.

Platinum,

162.

Plovers, 185.

192, 246.

wound and

kill

a ram,

23.

31, 302.

trees, 48, 295.

Plants,

and wounds another, sight a herd, 164, 186,

10

10, 174.

Petnopavloosk,

Littledale

1

Parlovsky, General, 20.

20; washings, 16,20.

13,

Ponies bought, 62. „

prices

Purdey

rifle,

of, 89.

102, 104, 167.

166, 167.

skulls on the ground, 169. find heads on ground, find

Rhododendrons,

23.

68.

Rock-cherries, 32.

184.

Littledale sights

some

ewes, 189. Littledale fine

Railways of Western Siberia, 20, Religion of the Kalmuks, 56.

13,

14, 56, 221, 297, 298,

300-2, 304-8.

secures

a

head, 191.

wound

Roe-deer,

a sheep, 197.

Russia, „

9, 19, 24, 28, 240.

Emperor

of, 2>3i

pick up fine head, 226,

of,

4i.

convicts, 16, 30.

head and sights a

.,

Customs, 23, Empire, 4.

herd, 253.

252.

240.

Russian colonists, descendants

Littledale gets a small

29, 85, 290.

Geographical Society, 218.

spy two old rams, 2 54. spy five rams, 257.

Government,

Littledale gets a fine

head, 259, 286. Littlcdale's

record

head, 260, 261.

27, 31, 33, 41,

54, 58, 78, 86.

merchants,

26, 45, 49, 62,

78, 84.

missionaries, 56.

,,

steppes, 150.


INDEX Russian Turkestan,

Suok

4, 150.

Tzar, Ivan the Terrible,

slopes,

97.

1,

River, 142, 143, 147, 169, 181, 182,

16.

Russian- Kalmuk dictionary, 65. Russo-Chinese divide, 97, 230. „

323

199, 143.

201

camp

;

steppe, 184, 192, 226.

Valley, 164, 182, 192, 213.

Swans, Sable,

189,

on banks,

83, 294.

15, 45.

Saiga Antelope,

Taba, the author's hunter,

150, 151.

95

87,

Saldjar Pass, 68, 69, 81, 309. Salkhyn (wind), 60, 157.

125, 129, 130, 133, 137, 138, 140.

Sardinian Wild Sheep, 95.

144,

147-57,

Sarry-Kol Lake, 302-4. our camp on, 303. „ Semenoff, Mr. P., 4.

183,

185-8.

221,

226,

Semiretchensk country,

24.

Shebalina, 49, 55. Sheleznaia Goro (iron mountain),

159,

190,

230,

l6 °.

191,

231,

Taganrog,

29.

6, 10, 11,

13, 15, 19, 20.

arrive there, 19.

Siberian Altai, 68.

.,

description

Franzensbad, 47. ,,

iron-works,

222, 230,

.,

Lake,

leave, 23.

River, 13, 15.

23;.

19, 21.

13, 14.

Railway,

roe-deer, 13.

Takhua,

steppes, 23.

Tarantasses, 39, 40, 42, 48, 49, 310 Tarkhaty country, 2S2.

Taiga,

6, 20.

14.

villages, 23, 27.

Skinning heads, 6. Slaviansky bazaar, Snow-bridge, 96, Snow-cock, 196.

97.

(water), 60.

Squirrels (Siberian),

River, 108, 275, 276, 277

Valley, 276.

3, 5, 29,

Tartars at Kasan, Tashkend, 309. Task (rock), 60. Tchagan-Burgaza,

10.

the, 83, 93, 94,

10S, 182, 277, 282, 286, 288.

15.

Stores bought at Barnaoul, 61.

Petersburg,

160.

281. 5.

Somoff, a rich merchant, 28, 29.

St.

village

,,

Sou

of the

of, 13.

frontier, 3, 26, 45, 58, 65,

153, 215,

234

270, 271, 275-81,286-9, 296, 304

,,

116,

204

233,

308.

Siberia, 16, 24, 28, 221, 240.

'63-9:

193,

237-9, 245-9, 256-9, 263, 265-8

Taguil,

'3, '7-

113, 117, 121, 122

107, 109, 112,

174, 294.

Museum,

4.

Suite (Antelope), 184.

Sumdairik River, 212, 222, 224. Valley, 2 n, 222.

Tchagan-Burgaza Valley, 96. Tchagan-Kol River, 200-2, 206-8, 215, 219, 226, 227.

2

preparing to cross, 205.

Tchagan-Kol Valley, 227. Tchagan-Sou (white water),

14^


INDEX

324

Tchibit, a tributary stream, 81.

Ward, Mr. Rowland, 1. West Siberian Railway, White Fox, 15.

Tchichatcheff (a Russian traveller),

Wild Sheep

Tcheliabinsk, 23.

Tchergk, 48,

49.

(see also Ovis), 82, 84,

87,95,220,221,279.

34-

Tchouia Valley,

25, 78, 81, 294.

path, 26, 65.

,,

haunts, 87.

horns

and skulls on bed of stream, 95. in Barnaoul Museum,

River, 68, 72, 75, 81, 82, 84, 294.

Teletzkoi Lake, 36, 39.

Tenga Lake, Tents,

34-

Willow bushes,

56, 60.

94, 200.

Grouse, 132.

3.

Tetraogalhts (Snowcock), 196.

Wissmann, Major,

Tezek (dry horsedung for

Wolf,

fuel), 98,

Woodcock

27, 29.

Tibet, 204, 227.

,,

Tibetan plateaus, in

34.

47.

Governor

of, 25, 26.

Trees, 25, 47, 48, 94, 200, 202, 213 223, 295, 297, 302, 304, 305.

Turki

habits

Yourts, or felt-covered tents, 57, 66, 75, 76, 78,98, 169, 171, 174, 177,

196. 13, 16, 23, 25.

borders of Siberia,

28.

66.

Zaissans, or native chiefs, 58, 59, 85, 86, 89, 90, 93, 201, 231, 251, 284,

290, 293, 299, 300, 301, 309.

Zaissan Vassili, the cook, 20, 33, 61, 66, 92, 98, 116, 154.

Volga,

6, 7, 9, 10.

4.

Yulientash, 307.

Uliassoutai, 26, 55.

Ullar (Snowcock), Ural Mountains, 6,

94, 139, 168.

Yaks, 179, 180, 185.

181, 202, 213, 228, 276, 299, 301.

dialect, 60.

Urusoul River,

19.

of, 19.

Yakoub, the demitcha,

Yulduz Valley,

ponies, 143, 145.

shooting at Taguil,

84.

Barnaoul Museum,

Tomsk, 27-30,

309.

187.

Wolves attack the

154, 162.

Theodor. Father,

Tiger

20, 23.

Semion,

85,

89,

92,

230,

240-2.

Zassedatel Meyer (see Meyer), 310. Zeiss glasses, 112,

1

13, 156, 159,

246


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TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE

SOUTH-EAST

IN

AFRICA BEING THE NARRATIVE OF THE LAST ELEVEN YEARS SPENT BY THE AUTHOR ON THE ZAMBESI AND ITS TRIBUTARIES WITH

AN ACCOUNT OF THE COLONIZATION OF MASHONALAND AND THE

PROGRESS OF THE GOLD INDUSTRY IN THAT COUNTRY

By

F.

C.

SELOUS

GOLD MEDALLIST OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY AUTHOR OF "A HUNTER'S WANDERINGS IN AFRICA"

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAP

Demy

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SEVENTEEN TRIPS THROUGH SOMALILAND AND A

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A RECORD OF EXPLORATION AND BIG GAME SHOOTING, 1884 to 1893

By

H. G. C. S WAYNE, R.E.

MAJOR

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ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN

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By

VAUGHAN KIRBY

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RECORDS OF BIG GAME WITH THEIR DISTRIBUTION, CHARACTERISTICS DIMENSIONS, WEIGHTS, AND

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CONTRIBUTORS ARNOLD H. A. BRYDEN T. E. BUCKLEY T. W. H. CLARKE LORD DELAMERE .MAJOR

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