Club + Resort Chef 2024 by WTWH Media LLC

Achieving Harmony

Following a $42 million renovation and key leadership changes, Executive Chef John Muriel and the team at Broken Sound Club hit all the right notes, balancing member expectations with exceptional service and strong leadership.

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Editorial Staff For Club + Resort Business

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Design + Renovation:

Pamela Brill

Editorial Staff For Club + Resort Chef

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Joanna DeChellis jdechellis@wtwhmedia.com 412-260-9233

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Isabelle Gustafson igustafson@wtwhmedia.com 216-296-2041

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Pamela Brill

Lauren Newman

Robert Mancuso, CMC, DipWSET

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Club + Resort Chef Editorial Advisory Committee

James Allen, CEC Executive Chef, Blackthorn Club at the Ridges Jonesborough, Tenn.

Lance Cook, WCMC, CEC, CCA, CFBE, FMP, CFSM Executive Chef, Hammock Dunes Club Palm Coast, Fla.

K. Scott Craig, CEC, CCA, WCMC Executive Chef, Cullasaja Club Highlands, N.C.

Laura Herman, CEPC Executive Pastry Chef, Shoreacres Lake Bluff, Ill.

Vincent Horville Executive Chef, The Metropolitan Club of the City of Washington (D.C.)

Michael Matarazzo, CEC Executive Chef, Farmington CC, Charlottesville, Va.

Robert Meitzer, CEC, CCA Executive Chef, Forest Lake Club Columbia, S.C.

Tim Recher, CEC, AAC, CWX Director of Culinary Operations, Quail West G&CC Naples, Fla.

Scott Ryan, CEC, AAC, Executive Chef, The Country Club Pepper Pike, Ohio

J. Kevin Walker, CMC, AAC

THE RIPPLE EFFECT

SHORTLY AFTER OUR LAST ISSUE, we released “All Ships Rise: A Documentary by Club + Resort Chef.” This film delves into the professional journey and impact of Scott Craig, CEC, CCA, WCMC, Executive Chef of Cullasaja Club and Contributor to Club + Resort Chef, the Chef to Chef Conference, and PlateCraft.

In the film (and in real life), Chef Craig speaks about building a family, learning from mentors, and refining the craft for future generations. He believes the culinary profession is about more than creating good food—it’s about fostering a supportive and innovative community. Chef Craig has a unique ability to see potential in others and bring out the best in them, creating an environment where everyone feels valued and motivated.

Making this film allowed us to paint a picture of what I believe it means to be a club chef. It goes beyond the kitchen; it’s about leadership, community, and relentless evolution. A club chef wears many hats, from innovator to mentor, and their influence extends far beyond the plate.

“All Ships Rise” captures the heart and sou of club culinary, highlighting the intricate balance between innovation and tradition, individual talent and teamwork.

I didn’t realize until after the fact, but collaborating with Kara Singleton, Director and Cinematographer, and Isabelle Gustafson, Senior Editor, to bring this documentary to life shares many of the same principles. Just as club chefs nurture their teams and foster creativity, we uplifted each other, creating an environment where our collective talents could shine.

This project was challenging at times—especially for Singleton who did the lion’s share of work in composition and editing—but our belief in the importance of the story and our mutual support carried us through.

Singleton brilliantly titled the film “All Ships Rise” because it embodies Craig’s belief that when one person excels, everyone around them benefits.

This film not only celebrates a culinary giant but also serves as a broader commentary on the industry. Other club chefs embody the same dedication, creativity, and passion that Scott Craig does, and their stories deserve to be told. By sharing these narratives, we hope to inspire others in the industry to recognize the incredible impact they can have on their communities. “All Ships Rise” is just the beginning, and we’re committed to keeping the tide high, telling important stories, and showcasing the remarkable individuals who define what it means to be a club chef.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Joanna DeChellis jdechellis@wtwhmedia.com 412-260-9233

8 Achieving Harmony: Inside Broken Sound Club’s Culinary Evolution

Following a $42 million renovation and key leadership changes, Executive Chef John Muriel and team hit all the right notes, balancing member expectations with exceptional service and strong leadership.

12 Insights From the 2024 Kitchen Renovation Survey

The recent survey highlights key challenges and priorities of club kitchens, emphasizing proactive planning and the pivotal role of culinary leaders in renovation efforts.

18 Charting a New Course: From Ocean to Dry-Ager to Plate Farmington Country Club’s Executive Chef, Michael Matarazzo, CEC, is enhancing menus with dry-aged fish.

20 Clubs Raise the Bar for Family-Friendly Functions

With thoughtful planning and a strategic execution, orchestrating events for any age level can be child’s play.

22 Pastry Chefs Unveil Their Ode de Chocolat

Club and resort chefs melt, mold and more to craft chocolate confectioneries members savor.

26 Behind the Burners: On Cooking, Challenges, and Capes

Chefs Daniel Montano and Shawn Olah explore their culinary journeys, discussing leadership challenges, personal influences, and their unique takes on a hypothetical superhero identity.

Achieving Harmony

By Isabelle Gustafson, Senior Editor

BROKEN SOUND CLUB

in Boca Raton, Fla., reopened after a three-year, $42 million renovation with two new restaurants: Zest, featuring small plates and sushi, and Cirq Grille and Bar, offering elevated classics. Since then, Michelin-starred Chef Bogdan Danila departed as Culinary Director, marking the start of a series of significant leadership changes.

“It’s been transition after transition,” says Executive Chef John Muriel, who oversees Cirq and a robust banquet operation, alongside Michael Bass, Executive Chef of Banquets. “But plans never go accordingly, especially in this type of business. The challenges we face make us better.”

Today, with additional renovations and plans in the works, Muriel, Bass, and a talented team of front- and back-of-house staff work together to meet and exceed the expectations of more than 3,000 members.

“About 75% of the work is building relationships,” Muriel says. It’s a skill that comes naturally to him, honed at Manhattan hotels but perfectly suited to a Boca club.

MAKING MOVES

Muriel grew up in Queens and was the first in his family to pursue higher education. He graduated with a degree in hospitality management from the New York City College of Technology.

“I ended up really enjoying the kitchen—the atmosphere, everything about it,” he says.

One of Muriel’s first jobs was with the InterContinental New York Barclay, followed by the Millennium Hilton.

“There, I picked up quite a bit of passion and momentum in my career,” he

notes. “I was promoted to sous chef. After seven years, I left to be a sous chef at Crowne Plaza in Times Square. That property was a beast—800 rooms right in the middle of Times Square. That was one of my most challenging jobs. But it was also the most rewarding because I learned the most.”

In 2013, Muriel joined The RitzCarlton New York as a sous chef, then executive sous. A few years years later, Greg Devino, who Muriel had worked with at The Ritz, connected him with John Crean, CCM, CCE, then-GM and CEO of Broken Sound, who was looking to hire an exec sous. After some consideration, Muriel made the move South.

“I met my wife at The Ritz-Carlton; she oversaw one of the lounges,” Muriel explains. “She grew up in Boca, and it was always her idea to come back.”

Muriel admits that the transition from New York City to Florida—and from hotels to clubs—was jarring at first.

“It was tough,” he says. “Coming from New York, with its food scene—I missed it. And the job was completely different from what I was used to. But I can honestly say I love it now. I couldn’t see myself anywhere else.”

After four years as executive sous chef, Muriel left Broken Sound for an executive chef position at Delaire Country Club in Delray Beach, Fla. But he kept in contact with his former colleagues. A year later, he was back.

ON THE FLY

“Because [Broken Sound] was going through a renovation, they asked me to oversee the new restaurant and the opening procedures,” Muriel says. “The people who work here are tremendous, and the opportunity to put my insight

John Muriel, Executive Chef of Broken Sound Club’s Cirq Grille and Bar, is a talented culinarian and a dedicated leader, committed to fostering a positive environment and empowering staff to provide exceptional service to members.

and my imagination into this restaurant enticed me. It felt like a good time.”

After Muriel rejoined the team in mid-2021, there were quite a few major management changes. In 2022, Crean retired after nearly 20 years as GM. He was succeeded by Ritz-Carlton alum Devino. In mid-2023, Devino left, and at the start of 2024, Broken Sound hired Ken Kosak as GM and COO. The club had also hired Danila, a Michelinstarred restaurant chef, in 2022 as Culinary Director. When he departed in July 2023, the club did not replace him.

“[Muriel] was put in the position to make changes and decisions on the fly,” says Junior Sous Chef Margarita Rodriguez. “We all rallied behind him. There’s a lot of respect—mutual respect—that made it happen.”

Muriel cites his management style and the relationships he’s built as his proudest accomplishment as a chef.

“In some of the jobs I had when I was young, I would see how management treated us—lack of respect, treating you like you were just a number,” Muriel says. “I knew I was going to be a chef some-

Onda Catalog

day; I always told myself that this wasn’t the manager I wanted to be.”

Respect, Muriel says, is not guaranteed as a leader; it’s earned.

“Just because I have a title doesn’t mean I know more than a cook who’s been in the kitchen for 40 years,” he says. “There’s a lot that person could teach me. The way I look at it, I just chose a different responsibility and a different way to go about the kitchen.”

At Broken Sound, Muriel greets each team member every morning, and he makes the rounds again before he leaves. He views leadership holistically. Staff are people first and foremost.

“[Chefs] tend to lose track of that,” he says. “We’re very task-driven, and we’ve got to get things done, but we forget the human part of it all.”

“He is very concerned about not only what’s going on work-wise, but he also asks us how we’re doing, how our family is,” says Rodriguez. “And he stresses balance; it’s not all about work.”

Muriel is adept at delegating, Rodriguez adds, and he empowers staff to make decisions and go above and beyond for members.

“Our job is in the details,” Rodriguez says. “There’s a member who brings in a special cheese she can only get in her hometown. A lot of places [frown upon] requests like that; they don’t realize that’s part of our job. It’s not just cooking—it’s hospitality. Something might take longer if it’s a very specific request, but we don’t say no. [Muriel’s] big on that.”

NEVER THE SAME

Since Cirq opened, menus have evolved significantly. When members voiced an interest in more variety, the team took the note and ran with it.

While the lunch buffet is steady—salad bar, whole roasted salmon, burgers, vegetables, a carving station, an omelet station—dinner menus change nearly every day.

“It’s never the same,” says Muriel. “On Mondays, we do ‘burgers and brews,’ which is our most popular night. We have about seven different burgers we create, along with sandwiches, salads, small plates. On Tuesdays, we do a prefix for $45. Wednesdays, we do a Tuscan buffet, which we change every three to four weeks. We have a standing menu on Thursdays and Fridays. Then it’s a la carte with specials. Saturday night, we’re doing a steak night, and Sunday night, a themed buffet.”

It’s an ambitious schedule, with many moving parts. But Muriel describes his own culinary style as simple, with a focus on fresh, local ingredients.

“I know some chefs like to reinvent the wheel,” he says. “I prefer to keep dishes simple, elegant, tasting good and plated nicely. Keeping true to traditions is important to me.”

Rodriguez cites seafood as among Muriel’s strongest culinary skills, particularly his fish preparations.

“He has good synergy between classic techniques, but with local food,” she says. “His cooking is light, clean. It’s

Broken Sound Club’s Cirq Grille and Bar features elevated classics with a nod to tradition and a focus on fresh, local foods. Executive Chef John Muriel is known for his seafood, with preparations that let ingredients shine.

zesty and fresh. Everything’s vibrant.”

Bass, who works closely with Muriel, notes that 60% of Broken Sound’s roughly $9M in annual food-and-beverage revenue is driven by its a la carte dining outlets, and 40% comes from banquets.

“We did 22 weddings and about 14 bar mitzvahs last season,” Bass says, “plus golf mixers, tennis mixers, opening events, closing events. Our season closing was a white party celebration on the pool deck. We did a lot of stations and entertainment. It was a memorable event. The team worked together to pull it off.”

STARTING FRESH

Broken Sound is now renovating The Old Course clubhouse, including its traditional a la carte venue, with plans to reopen in October under a new name. The club is also installing more pickleball courts, which Bass expects will lead to additional events.

After a successful kids’ sushi-making class, further programming is in the works, as well as workshops to refresh staff skills. Muriel aims to restart chef’s tables, and Rodriguez is spearheading a culinary garden.

“In the fall, when the weather cooperates, we’ll plant things that we’ll incorporate into our specials,” she says.

In the meantime, Muriel notes, summer in Boca is a time to regroup.

“It was tough, all the changes, everything we went through trying to get [the restaurants] open,” he reflects. “Right now, we’re starting the season fresh.”

Come fall, the overarching goal will be meeting and exceeding lofty, postrenovation expectations at every turn.

“From the start of the season until the close, we need to be all gears running at every meal, making sure the members are happy,” Muriel says. “That’s why we’re here.” C+RC

Insights from the 2024 Kitchen Renovation Survey

The recent survey highlights key challenges and priorities of club kitchens, emphasizing proactive planning and the pivotal role of culinary leaders in renovation efforts.

A Club + Resort Chef Report

THE DATA FROM THE 2024 Club + Resort Chef Kitchen Renovation Survey offers a comprehensive look into the current state and future needs of club kitchens. This data, gathered from a diverse range of club chefs, general managers and culinary directors, sheds light on the challenges and priorities faced by these professionals as they navigate the complexities of kitchen renovations.

The survey reveals that the majority of respondents hold the title of Executive Chef (66%), followed by General Manager (15%), Director of Culinary Operations (5%), and Director of Food & Beverage (5%). This distribution underscores the pivotal role of culinary leaders in shaping and executing kitchen renovation strategies. It affirms that executive club chefs and club culinary directors are key decision-makers in long-term capital planning. It also suggests that collaboration with General Managers is crucial to align culinary and operational goals, ensuring successful and cohesive renovation projects.

Club sizes vary widely among respondents, with membership numbers ranging from under 500 to over 5,000. This variation in membership size indicates that renovation needs are highly individualized. Larger clubs likely face greater complexity in kitchen operations, requiring more extensive and frequent upgrades to maintain service standards. Smaller clubs, while potentially less complex, still face challenges in optimizing their spaces to ensure efficiency and member satisfaction.

Regarding annual capital budgets for culinary programs, the majority of respondents (47%) have budgets under $50,000, indicating that many clubs may need to focus on smaller, incremental upgrades rather than large-scale overhauls. Meanwhile, 20% of respondents have budgets between $50,000 and $100,000, and 17% have between $100,000 and $250,000. Only 7% have budgets exceeding $250,000. This variance in budget sizes highlights differing

Annual Capital Budget for Culinary Programs

Respondents’ Official Titles

prioritization across clubs and underscores the importance of strategic planning and efficient use of resources to achieve renovation goals within financial constraints.

When it comes to equipment replacement, small appliances (69%) and refrigerators (65%) are the most commonly mentioned items, indicating that these appliances likely experience the most wear and tear. Additionally, ovens (40%) are also frequently highlighted for replacement, emphasizing the need for reliable and efficient cleaning and cooking solutions. Other frequently replaced items include grills (27%), fryers (27%), and freezers (23%). Less commonly mentioned but still significant are stoves (18%), dishwashers (15%), combi ovens (13%), and tilt skillets (10%). This data highlights the importance of maintaining a range of essential kitchen equipment to ensure smooth and efficient operations.

Most Frequently Replaced Kitchen Equipment

According to the survey, 36% of respondents said renovations occur as needed, while 35% reported that renovations happen only once every 10 years or more. This infrequency suggests that many clubs may be adopting a reactive rather than proactive maintenance strategy. This approach can lead to more significant disruptions and higher costs over time, as delaying necessary updates often results in more extensive and expensive repairs down the line. Proactive planning and regular updates could mitigate these issues, ensuring smoother operations and better cost management. The survey reveals that the primary triggers for kitchen renovations include expansion (53%) and equipment obsolescence (40%), indicating that clubs are prioritizing the need to accommodate growing memberships and replace outdated equipment. This focus on expansion suggests that many clubs are experiencing increased demand, necessitating larger and more efficient kitchen spaces, while the high percentage for equipment obsolescence highlights the ongoing need to update and maintain essential kitchen

Frequency of Kitchen Renovations in Clubs

Triggers for Kitchen Renovations at Clubs

Equipment obsolescence

Club expansion Style and design updates

appliances to ensure operational efficiency and reliability. Management decisions also play a significant role, with 40% of respondents indicating that leadership drives renovation projects, underscoring the importance of proactive management in maintaining and improving kitchen facilities.

The survey identifies aligning renovations with club growth or member expectations (44%) and budget constraints (36%) as the biggest challenges in future kitchen renovations. These challenges underscore the importance of meticulous planning and the need for phased renovations that minimize operational disruptions. The high percentage of respondents concerned with aligning renovations with club growth or member expectations suggests that there is significant pressure to meet the evolving demands of club members while ensuring that the facilities can support increased usage and new services. This requires a strategic approach to renovations, ensuring that upgrades are not only functional but also enhance the overall member experience. Budget constraints, cited by 36% of respondents, indicate that financial limitations are a significant barrier to executing comprehensive renovation plans. This necessitates careful financial planning and possibly securing additional funding or reallocating existing budgets to prioritize critical areas of improvement. The relatively low concern for disruption to daily operations (12%) suggests that many clubs have

Biggest Anticipated Challenges in Future Kitchen Renovations

Top Factor in the Kitchen Renovation Process

Minimizing disruption to daily operations

Staying within budget

Improving efficiency and workflow

Enhancing safety and compliance

Updating to the latest technology

Aesthetic and design improvements

and energy efficiency

developed effective strategies to manage and minimize the impact of renovations on daily activities, perhaps through phased construction schedules or temporary facilities.

The survey identifies key areas that require urgent upgrades, with cooking appliances (59%), refrigeration (46%), and food preparation areas (44%) topping the list. These areas are essential for maintaining efficient and safe kitchen operations, and upgrading them can lead to significant improvements in workflow, efficiency, and compliance with

Kitchen Areas Requiring the Most Urgent Upgrades or Renovations

health regulations. Additionally, flow (60%) and storage (51%) are critical areas of focus, indicating that many kitchens struggle with layout and organization, which can impact service speed. The high priority given to cooking appliances highlights the importance of reliable, high-performing equipment in delivering consistent food quality and meeting the demands of club culinary operations. Similarly, the emphasis on refrigeration points to the need for effective cold storage solutions to ensure food safety and minimize waste. Ventilation systems (37%) and cleaning and washing stations (27%) also feature prominently, reflecting the necessity of maintaining a hygienic and safe kitchen environment. Proper ventilation is crucial for removing heat, smoke, and odors, while efficient cleaning stations help in maintaining cleanliness and compliance with health standards.

The survey data on the most important factors during the kitchen renovation process highlights several key priorities for club chefs and culinary directors. Improving efficiency and workflow scores the highest, which underscores the need for renovations that streamline kitchen operations and boost productivity. Staying within budget is also a critical factor, emphasizing the importance of financial management and cost control in renovation projects. Minimizing disruption to daily operations ranks slightly lower, reinforcing that while important, many clubs develop effective strategies to manage operational interruptions during renovations.

The survey data reveals several critical challenges that clubs face during kitchen renovations, highlighting the complexity and financial strain involved in these projects. Unforeseen costs are a significant issue, with 57% of respondents encountering unexpected structural repairs, which can dramatically impact budgets and timelines. Price increases for materials or equipment affect 53% of respondents, indicating that market volatility and supply chain issues are substantial concerns. Additionally, delays leading to extended labor costs are a problem for 42% of respondents, further complicating financial planning.

Insufficient funds are the most commonly reported constraint in

capital budgets, cited by 58% of respon-

Unforeseen Costs Encountered During Capital Planning and Renovations

Delays

dents. This widespread issue necessitates prioritization and phased approaches to renovations, as financial resources often fall short of the desired scope.

A proactive approach to financial planning is evident in that 61% of respondents regularly review a depreciation schedule for their kitchen equipment. This practice is essential for anticipating replacement needs and budgeting accordingly, helping to maintain operational efficiency and avoid disruptions.

Respondents shared valuable advice for clubs considering kitchen renovations. Key recommendations include thorough planning, involving staff in decision-making, over-engineering plumbing and electrical systems, and ensuring adequate

Constraints Faced in Managing Capital Budgets

contingency funds. It’s also advised to keep a close eye on the renovation process to ensure everything goes according to plan. This practical advice highlights the importance of detailed preparation and the benefits of learning from peers who have undergone similar projects.

This survey provides a valuable snapshot of the current state of club kitchens and offers insightful data for clubs planning their next renovation. Understanding these trends and challenges can help in making informed decisions that enhance kitchen functionality and member satisfaction. By addressing the identified pain points and following the shared advice, clubs can ensure their kitchens are wellequipped to meet the evolving needs of their members. C+RC

Percentage of Respondents Reviewing Depreciation Schedules for Kitchen Equipment

For additional charts and analysis, please see clubandresortchef.com/kitchen-renovation-survey

Charting a New Course: From Ocean to Dry-Ager to Plate

Farmington

CC’s Executive Chef, Michael Matarazzo, is enhancing menus with dry-aged fish.

By Joanna DeChellis, Editor-in-Chief

AT FARMINGTON COUNTRY CLUB in Charlottesville, Va., Executive Chef Michael Matarazzo, CEC, is quietly enhancing his menus with an unexpected star: dry-aged fish.

“There are two things members don’t want when it comes to fish: dry or old,” says Matarazzo. Yet, his use of dry-aged fish has shown notable improvements in both flavor and texture—and the members are taking notice.

This initiative began after Matarazzo attended a seminar by Liwei Liao, otherwise known as the “Dry Aged Fish Guy.”

“He discussed a different way to handle fish, focusing on increasing shelf life by draining any remaining blood,” Matarazzo explains. This technique, though common in game processing, is still relatively unconventional for fish.

“I was really skeptical when I went to this demo,” says Matarazzo. “But when he started telling us about the process, it all made sense.”

Liao’s methods stand apart from conventional techniques that use preservatives like smoke, salt, or nitrates. Instead of imparting smokiness or saltiness, his approach enhances the natural flavor of the fish, resulting in a more pronounced taste and a slightly condensed, buttery consistency.

“Traditionally, fish purveyors and chefs keep fish packed on ice until it’s sold,” says Matarazzo. “Any fish that’s not used gets thrown away because it starts to lose its quality.” This approach, while effective to a degree, leads to waste and limits the potential for flavor development.

“He cooked some salmon for us and sent it around,” says Matarazzo. “The entire crowd was like, ‘What’s up with this fish? This is incredible.’ He then said that the fish was 14 days old and he brought it with him from LA.”

Matarazzo needed no more convincing. He started experimenting with salmon, aging it for up to 14 days.

He then introduced the dry-aged salmon for the first time at the club’s annual meeting, saying, “We didn’t tell the members initially; we wanted the salmon to speak for itself.”

And it did.

“Members were going out of their way to find me and tell me it was the best fish they had ever eaten,” Matarazzo adds. “We sell hundreds of pounds of salmon a week at Farmington, so for members to single out this salmon and comment on it really underscores the impact of the dryaging process.”

The success of dry-aged fish hinges on removing blood from the body, as blood is the single biggest contributor to decomposition in an animal after death.

To age fish free of blood, Matarazzo either purchases fish slaughtered using the ike jime method—a traditional Japanese technique involving instantaneous euthanasia by spiking the brain, thorough bleeding, and spinal cord destruction—or he buys the freshest fish available, cuts the gills from the spine, and lets the blood drain out.

“When we first started working on this, my fish purveyor would send pictures of the gills so we could ensure the level of freshness I was looking for,” says Matarazzo. “The process only works for whole fish that has not entered decomposition. You can tell by the color of the gills. After

you sever them and hang the fish, there will be a small pool of blood under it.”

This meticulous attention to freshness and proper handling ensures the success of the dry-aging process.

The next step is the actual aging.

At Farmington, Matarazzo hangs fish in his dry ager for up to 14 days. “It can certainly go longer than 14 days, but we don’t have the space in our ager to go beyond that timeframe,” he explains. He also hangs fish in the refrigerator for 2448 hours.

During the aging period, the fish undergoes a transformation in both its texture and taste as natural enzymes break down fats and proteins into fatty acids and amino acids. The controlled environment, which maintains specific humidity and temperature settings, slowly reduces the fish’s moisture content while concentrating its flavors.

While the dry ager is useful, it presents

certain limitations that impact its broader application at Farmington CC.

“Given the success with salmon and the limited capacity of our dry ager, we began experimenting with hanging different types of fish in a regular refrigerator for 24-48 hours to drain the blood,” says Matarazzo.

This approach allowed them to explore the potential benefits of dry-aging more varieties without being constrained by the capacity of their dry ager.

Today, Farmington CC’s Blue Ridge Room exclusively sells dry-aged king salmon. Matarazzo is also hanging other whole fish like branzino, flounder, striped bass, and snapper.

Matarazzo recommends that other chefs give it a try by starting small: “Even just hanging the fish for 24-48 hours in a regular refrigerator makes a noticeable difference.”

By starting small, chefs can gradually familiarize themselves with the nuances of the process and gauge the membership’s response without committing extensive resources.

“Let the results speak for themselves. Taste is your best advocate,” he adds.

This new method has not only enhanced the dining experience at Farmington CC but also set a new standard for how Matarazzo handles seafood.

“Once you taste the difference, you see the value,” he says.

Matarazzo has become so passionate about this topic that he plans to offer a live cooking demonstration on dry-aged fish with sampling at the 2025 Chef to Chef Conference in Baltimore.

“If you want to learn more,” Matarazzo says, “come to Baltimore next year and taste it for yourself.” C+RC

Michael Matarazzo, Executive Chef of Famington CC, learned about the process of dry-aging fish when he attended a seminar by Liwei Liao, known as the “Dry Aged Fish Guy.”

Matarazzo has become so passionate about this topic that he plans to offer a live cooking demonstration on dry-aged fish at the 2025 Chef to Chef Conference in Baltimore.

Clubs Raise the Bar for Family-Friendly Functions

With thoughtful planning and strategic execution, orchestrating events for any age level can be child’s play.

By Pamela Brill, Contributing Editor

GATHERING FOR FAMILY MEALS

can be a Herculean feat; from finicky toddlers to moody teens, it takes a culinary wizard to whip up a feast that delivers for all. The same goes at the clubhouse, where teams must work together to engage parents and kids with creative dishes that taste as good as they look. Here’s how two facilities met this challenge head-on, setting the stage for future events with adaptable formats.

TECH-FREE TEEN NIGHT

As any parent of a teenager knows, getting kids to give up their phones is on par with asking a golfer to part with their clubs. But for one summer evening, young members at The Hyannisport (Mass.) Club traded in their devices and tied on aprons for a teen-only pizza party. Judging by the smiles all around, the results were worth posting about.

The concept for last year’s inaugural event was prompted by the social committee’s goal to create more programming for ages 13-18.

“They had grown out of the children’s activities but still weren’t old enough for adult-only events,” explains Catering Manager Kelsie Griffin Crocker.

The desire to engage older kids in a hands-on format was key, as was the element of socializing without parent

chaperones. Crocker considered the club’s existing outdoor kitchen and woodfired pizza station, used weekly ever since its inception four years ago, and an idea was born. Email blasts were sent out to membership, while word-of-mouth marketing at other teen events filled in the gaps. In no time, 20 teens were ready for a night of pizzabaking and memory-making.

Crocker worked closely with Executive Chef Nicholas Reney and culinary team members La’norris Ferguson and Zorica Barth to plan the menu and establish a production timeline. They decided to host the event on the same day pizza was served at the club, which minimized prep time. Prior to the teens’ arrival, toppings and sauces were assembled and doughs were stretched and added to the pizza wheel. The re-

maining ‘work’ was left up to the teens. Organized in groups of three, each kid had an opportunity to personalize their pizza to their liking. Teens could choose between tomato sauce, white sauce, pesto or garlic and oil, along with pepperoni, sausage, ricotta, heirloom tomatoes, mushrooms and other toppings. Before heading to the cook station, teens were invited to decorate their aprons, putting their downtime to good use. They got a chance to interact with the culinary team as well as mingle with other teens.

By the end of the night, kids had polished off their pizzas, sampled creative mocktails, including a Lavender Haze special—a nod to Taylor Swift—and left with a full stomach. Crocker was pleased with the event and thrilled by the teens’ level of curiosity.

Crocker also appreciates their honesty, especially in communicating what works—and what doesn’t. Such feedback will come in handy later this summer when the club reprises the event— and not just for the teens. Crocker is planning to add a second date for younger kids, along with parent chaperones and possibly a make-your-own sundae bar for the teen event.

OUT-OF-THIS-WORLD BRUNCH

Waffle stations and donut towers aren’t enough these days to dazzle foodies at Sunday brunch. The culinary team at Interlachen Country Club in Edina, Minn., knew this all too well and set out to create a memorable meal that incorporated a classic theme—one that captivates kids and parents alike.

In the week preceding Easter, Interlachen hosted a Star Wars-themed brunch to immerse its member families in a culinary adventure in a galaxy far, far away. Housed with interactive stations that included creative beverages, pastries and ice cream, guests were magically transported to the fictitious planet Tatooine. Director of Club Events McKenzie Davenport, who spearheaded the outing, wanted to challenge herself and the crew with a fresh spin on a beloved franchise.

“I often idolize the immersive worlds that the Disney Imagineers create,” she says. “I wanted to give members a similar out-of-this-world experience from the moment they walked in the door.”

After promoting the event to membership via an in-house-designed invitation,

At Interlachen CC’s Lover Galentine’s Day Brunch (Taylor’s Version), mother and daughter ‘Swifties’ bonded over friendshipbracelet-making, karaoke and themed food and drink (right). The club’s Star Wars-themed brunch (left), held the week before Easter, featured themed, interactive beverages, pastry, and ice cream stations.

the crew got down to business. Davenport’s events team was tasked with manning tableside service, food running and staffing the bar, while Director of Operations Allyssa Doud concocted mocktail/cocktail concepts. Menu-planning was a group effort by Davenport, Executive Chef Aaron Anderson and Executive Pastry Chef Jessie Stravinskas.

Culinary highlights from the brunch included a liquid nitrogen ice cream station; a reenactment of the movie’s cantina, serving blue and green milk (made from coconut milk and Hawaiian Punch flavoring) and housemade sodas named C-3Pops; and at the buffet table, Princess Leia’s (Cinnamon) Buns. At the adults-only hangout was the Death Star Bar; cocktails included Darth Maul-tini (blood orange Aperol spritz with blackberry and dried blood orange) and the Stormtrooper (coconut milk margarita with Stormtrooper ice cubes).

Executing a multi-layered event, particularly one aimed at families rather than adults, requires a new mindset. What remains unchanged is the desire to make it memorable.

“While there may be times flavor profiles change to adapt to the age of our members, creativity does not,” said Stravinskas, noting the importance of nostalgia when crafting recipes. “We can execute unique and fun visual pieces without sacrificing the food’s quality.”

ARE YOU READY FOR IT?

Interlachen adopted this same mentality for its Lover Galentine’s Day Brunch (Taylor’s Version) earlier this year. Mother and daughter ‘Swifties’ bonded over friendship-bracelet-making, a karaoke catwalk and food and beverages inspired by the singer.

“After seeing how many of our members and their daughters attended the

Eras Tour in 2023, we knew we wanted to capitalize on that while it’s still relevant,” says Davenport. “Galentine’s Day felt like the perfect holiday, as it’s centered around friendship and love.”

The culinary team laid out its game plan, ordering specialty items like decorations and designing a production list. The event kicked into high gear 72 hours beforehand when the culinary team determined which items to prepare ahead (breakfast pastries and bread doughs) and which must be made on the day of the event.

Highlights of the brunch included the “Mr. Perfectly Fine” yogurt parfait station, “You Belong With Me” avocado toast station, “Red” velvet waffles, and a “Getaway (Dessert) Bar,” made up of salted caramel macarons, strawberries and cream profiteroles and black cocoa cupcakes. Moms also indulged in song-inspired cocktails, such as a “Slammin’ Screen Door” (gin, lavender, lemon and liquid disco) and “(Bloody) Mary’s Song” (vodka, ICC house mix and celery salt). While peals of laughter and rousing sing-alongs are a testament to the event’s success, Interlachen still made a point of meeting to recap the results.

“This has helped us time and time again to note what has been a success and why, whether it be the location of where items were placed or notes of the demographic of the group,” says Stravinskas. “All of these things help us improve year after year to ensure that the preferences and needs of our members have been met.” C+RC

Pastry Chefs Unveil Their Ode de Chocolat

Club and resort chefs melt, mold and more to craft chocolate confectioneries members savor.

By Pamela Brill, Contributing Editor

FORREST GUMP SAID IT BEST: “Life is like a box of chocolates: You never know what you’re gonna get.”

Today’s club and resort pastry chefs are surprising members and guests with a variety of unique confectioneries. From life-sized sculptures that serve as dessert table centerpieces, to boxed bonbons to cap off a memorable dining experience, chocolate candies have become bona fide showstoppers.

For Pastry Chef Anna Crumley, crafting chocolates allows her to showcase her artistic side via brushstrokes of a different kind.

“I personally enjoy painted bonbons because of how many techniques exist,” she says. The intricate process involves melting and then tempering colored cocoa butter, followed by applying the chocolate with either a warmed airbrush gun or by hand. Members at Cherokee Country Club in Knoxville, Tenn., are often treated to these delicacies as a garnish in lieu of a macaron.

TEMPERING TECHNIQUE

Bonbons are just one portion of Crumley’s chocolate repertoire, one that she has perfected over the years

Pastry Chef Anna Crumley makes chocolate-based confectioneries for assorted member events at Cherokee CC.

working in restaurants and resorts. While Cherokee marks her first private club experience, she has maximized the past three years by making chocolate-based confectioneries for assorted member events.

Each month, Crumley produces bonbons for wine club meetings and works with the sommelier to see

Executive Pastry Chef Savanna Brodar has a particular passion for chocolate and the tempering process, so she aims to incorporate it into her work at The Country Club of North Carolina as much as possible.

which flavors will pair well with different vintages. She also made bonbons with a strawberry rosewater filling for Cherokee’s founders’ event. “I used oil-based food color to dye the chocolate and custom transfer sheets to put the logo on,” she explains.

Holidays at the club have also seen their fair share of Crumley’s chocolate confectioneries. She made a chocolate box for Valentine’s Day, while for Halloween, she fashioned truffles in the shape of a cat. Crumley has cultivated a steady diet of YouTube culinary videos to learn new techniques and follows select chocolatiers online for additional inspiration.

Determining what type of chocolate to use depends upon the taste Crumley is looking to achieve. She also notes the influence of production and origin on overall flavor. “Beans are heavily impacted by the environment when they’re grown,” she says, noting the vast difference between those in Peru versus those in Guatemala.

For her own chocolate-making technique, Crumley depends on tempering,

particularly the silking method. She melts her chocolate, cools it to 94°F and then adds 1 percent by weight of silk. “For instance, 1,000 grams of chocolate would equal 10 grams of grated silk added in,” she explains. A double boiler gets the job done, as does an infrared gun thermometer.

And while the idea of tempering initially posed a bit of a learning curve for Crumley, she has since embraced the technique. “I never had much success with the seeding method, and the table method is rather messy,” she adds. “Once I tried silk, it worked the first time and every time since. It has been a game changer.”

SWEET SURRENDER

It’s not uncommon for members at The Country Club of North Carolina in Pinehurst, N.C., to be greeted by a chocolate sculpture of epic proportions. Be it a tremendous Thanksgiving turkey or tabletop-sized Easter bunny, complete with chocolate eggs in his basket, these eye-catching, mouthwatering creations are just as compelling

as the truffles and bonbons bestowed upon wedding and banquet guests. Guests can thank Executive Pastry Chef Savanna Brodar who has been satisfying their appetite for sweets since last July when she came aboard.

Brodar is no stranger to the pastry kitchen, having spent the past decade working in a variety of Charlotte, N.C., hotels. While she has been developing her chocolate-making skills for the past five years, Brodar ramped up her experience over the past two.

“I have had the opportunity to create large chocolate sculptures for many holiday brunches,” she says, “which has greatly enhanced my expertise.”

Tapping into her previous hotel pastry experience, Brodar has built up her truffle and bonbon-making for club banquets and weddings. Hand-crafted CCNC chocolate bars took center stage at the U.S. Open earlier this summer and are also made for other special events. “I have a passion for chocolate and the tempering process, and I incorporate it into my work whenever possible,” she says. This includes

At The Country Club of North Carolina, members and guests are often greeted by chocolate sculptures of epic proportions, be it a tremendous Thanksgiving turkey or tabletop-sized Easter bunny, thanks to

dipping techniques used with mousses and other desserts, such as cake pops and decorated cookies.

Brodar notes that she prefers manual tempering over a tempering machine for creating the most authentic product.

“The ability to hand-temper chocolate to the perfect temperature and texture is immensely rewarding,” she explains. “This process provides a sense of accomplishment that I don’t experience with a tempering machine; I take pride in knowing that I can achieve excellent results with minimal equipment.”

Even after yielding confectioneries that meet her high standards, Brodar must contend with fluctuating temperatures in the kitchen—a challenge when working with chocolate. She usually makes a point of working quickly and using refrigeration to benefit the setting process.

“I’ve also discovered that tackling chocolate work early in the morning, before the rest of the crew arrives, helps mitigate the temperature challenges,” she adds.

CHOCOLATE BY DESIGN

Temperature control is also a factor for Pastry Sous Chef Ryan A. Stipp at the Omni PGA Frisco (Texas) Resort.

“In the worst scenario, you have days where your air conditioning can’t keep up with the radiating Texas heat, so your kitchen runs a little warmer than usual,” he says. “This is when it’s crucial to understand the properties of chocolate and how you can manipulate them, despite the temperature conditions of your kitchen.” To combat these challenges, Stipp, like Brodar, shifts his production time earlier in the

Executive Pastry Chef Savanna Brodar.

day or later in the evening when the heat has waned. He also uses chilled sheet pans to help set the chocolate.

Strategies like these are something Stipp has acquired over the past 20 years in the pastry business. Before joining the Omni PGA Frisco last May, he spent the past five years at another Omni resort, where he immersed himself in the culinary world. But Stipp’s all-in commitment to chocolate truly kicked into high gear when he ran a Florida-based chocolate production company, supplying wholesale accounts in the Orlando area and for Disney Cruise Lines. A big believer in the power of continuing education, Stipp also takes classes from chocolatier Melissa Coppel to stay current.

“One thing I always remind myself of, and anyone I’m working or collaborating with is, if I ever get to the point where I know everything, then I might as well hang up my apron because I have become complacent,” he says.

To maintain his standards of excellence, Stipp has incorporated chocolate on the a la carte menu at the resort’s upscale steakhouse. Each guest receives a confection sample accompanying their bill as a token of appreciation.

“It’s just one of those tiny details that might not seem like much, but it is something that resonates with them as a sweet send-off,” he explains.

Wedding guests, on the other hand, get to experience the full treatment: a dessert table of chocolate goodies, ranging from custom flavor and color (to match their wedding palette) bonbons, mendiants, chocolate bark, handrolled truffles and chocolate-dipped bacon, among other selections.

Gauging which type of chocolate

works best for each product requires a thoughtful approach. When crafting molded or enrobed bonbons, Stipp leans towards chocolate with a higher cocoa butter ratio for greater fluidity; conversely, for ganache or fudge, a lower cocoa butter ratio is best.

Of course, relying on tried-and-true pastry equipment—a tabletop chocolate tempering machine, confectionery guitar and Stipp’s own hands—is key to success, particularly in an environment where chocolate yearns to be the star of the show.

A believer in the power of continuing education, Omni PGA Frisco Resort Pastry Sous Chef Ryan A. Stipp takes classes from chocolatier Melissa Coppel to stay current.

“In the resort, not only are we making these fun, little chocolate confections, but we’re also supplying 13 food outlets with desserts and confections and banquet events on top of all that,” Stipp notes. “We’ve really worked hard to balance all those areas, while still offering elite confections where it makes sense.” C+RC

Behind the Burners: on Cooking, Challenges, and Capes

Chefs Daniel Montano and Shawn Olah explore their culinary journeys, discussing leadership challenges, personal influences, and their unique takes on a hypothetical superhero identity.

By Joanna DeChellis, Editor-in-Chief

IN THIS UNIQUE DIALOGUE,

Daniel Montano, CEC, Executive Chef of Mizner Country Club (Delray Beach, Fla.), and Shawn Olah, Executive Chef of Highlands Falls Country Club (Highlands, N.C.), engage in a candid exchange. They discuss everything from superheroes to challenges in the kitchen, offering a glimpse into their professional lives and personal preferences. This conversation aims to capture the authentic interaction often found at the Chef to Chef Conference and PlateCraft, exploring their experiences, memories, and the impact of their work on their personal lives.

Daniel Montano (DM): It’s quite exciting to have this conversation with another chef outside of Chef to Chef Conference or PlateCraft. I’m always curious and eager to hear about what other chefs are doing, so I have a few questions for you. The first one is quite interesting— and there’s a bit of a fun story behind it. During a big interview at Myers Park Country Club [Charlotte, N.C.], where about 20 of our top managers and directors were present, my buddy, Mario Trujillo [Executive Sous Chef of Cullasaja Club in Highlands, N.C.] asked a rather unconventional question to a new food and service director: If you could choose to be a superhero or have any superpower, what would it be?

Shawn Olah (SO): I might be in the minority here, but I really like the question. I’d choose to be Blackout.

DM: Why that character?

SO: His anti-hero nature. He’s kindhearted but isn’t afraid to get things done. His ability to act yet remain a good person resonates with me. Plus, I’m sitting here surrounded by my five-year-old’s Legos, so maybe I’m feeling a bit like a superhero myself.

DM: And if you had to choose a superpower, what would it be?

SO: I’d like to fly.

DM: That was actually my answer when Mario first introduced this question. It’s funny because I’ve since adopted it in my own interviews. When I started at Mizner CC in Florida, I needed to hire many people quickly. I noticed many candidates were very nervous. I started using this superhero question to help them relax and show their true selves. It’s been effective in helping people break out of their shell. It’s interesting how many go for humorous responses, while others wish for something like super speed to expedite their kitchen prep work. It really opens up the conversation.

SO: My turn. In what area of your role as executive chef do you find yourself the most challenged?

Mizner CC

Shawn Olah, Executive Chef Highlands Falls CC

DM: The biggest challenge for me is time management. I always feel like I’m running nonstop. I’m trying to find a balance between caring for my young family—I have a nearly three-year-old and a one-year-old—and managing my responsibilities at work. We’ve also recently moved, leaving many friends behind. It’s a constant effort to meet all the demands at work while also being present for my children at home. Sometimes I have to make tough decisions about what can wait until tomorrow because I haven’t seen my kids all day. SO: As a single father, I really respect that answer and can relate to your struggles.

DM: What’s your favorite food memory from childhood?

SO: One of my fondest memories is standing on a stool next to my grandmother. She used to make what I thought was coffee cake, but I later learned it was actually monkey bread—a

Hungarian recipe. I could barely reach the countertop, but she’d have me roll dough balls and dip them into a butter, cinnamon, and pecan mixture. I always got scolded for licking my fingers. That memory really sticks with me.

On a professional level, I remember my very first day in a kitchen; I started as a front-of-house busboy. Getting an employee meal was a big deal for me—I felt so taken care of just being able to pick my own fruit cup.

SO: Switching gears, what is something that you currently purchase that you wish you could produce in-house?

DM: Bacon-wrapped, pimento-cheesestuffed jalapeños. I’ve had to buy them pre-made because I didn’t have the staff to make them in-house. But when I was working in Winston-Salem, I walked into the kitchen and saw the team stuffing and wrapping jalapeños with bacon, and I was thrilled. It’s so much better when we do it ourselves. We use an in-house recipe for the pimento cheese and get some highquality bacon. It just elevates the dish immensely. It’s one of my favorite appetizers, and making it with quality ingredients really enhances the flavor and texture.

DM: If you weren’t a chef, what do you think you’d be doing?

SO: I kind of fell into hospitality by default when I needed a job as a young man. If I hadn’t become a chef, I probably would have pursued something in scuba diving or spearfishing. I’ve been certified as a diver since I was 12, so it’s always been a passion of mine.

DM: No way, that’s incredible.

SO: Yeah, it’s a bit wild thinking about it now. I mean, why they handed me a spear gun at the age of 12 is beyond me. Being a lobster diver was always thrilling—trying to catch fish while watching out for sharks. If I hadn’t gone into cooking, I’d probably be doing something related to diving. It’s one of those passions that could have easily turned into a profession. But honestly, if not for cooking, I’m not sure what else I would have done for a career. Sometimes it feels like you’re destined for a specific path, and for me, that was cooking.

SO: Everyone in the industry knows you were mentored by Chef Scott Craig. Outside of Chef Scott, who would you say has had a significant impact on your career?

DM: Mario Trujillo. We met when he was the Chef de Cuisine at Myers Park CC.We were both leading different operations—him on banquets and me on à la carte. When our Executive Sous Chef left, some thought it might get cutthroat between Mario and me. Everyone wondered who would burn whom first. But Chef Scott knew we both wanted to move up and we both deserved to move up. We never let that kind of rivalry enter our minds. Mario has been an incredible mentor and has taught me a lot. He’s a master of his craft and a great person. His influence has definitely shaped who I am as a chef today. So, it’s really both Chef Mario and Chef Scott who are my go-to guys when I need advice or support. C+RC

Daniel Montano, Executive Chef of Mizner CC, says his career has been most impacted by Scott Craig and Mario Trujillo, Executive Chef and Executive Sous Chef of Cullasaja Club, respectively.

Shawn Olah, Executive Chef of Highlands Falls CC, feels he was destined to be a cook. His fondest childhood food memory is making monkey bread with his grandmother.

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