WWD Intimates by Jim Rossi

WwDIntimates

SECTION II

the trends: Fall 2009

PHOTOS BY john aquino and robert mitra

From green and glam to cozy and classic and everything in between.

WWD

®The retailers’ daily newspaper. Published by Fairchild Fashion Group, a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017

l u x u r y i s a s t at e o f m i n d

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FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP DANIEL LAGANI, President

PHOTO: KEN SHUNG

can you be tempted?

btemptd.com

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2009

SECTION II

WWD.COM

WWD Intimates UNDERCURRENTS

Intimate Moments

Melissa Rivers

d Im S c d L Im

— Debi Mazar

G L d P Im

Sanaa Lathan

E S

G c B d

Im R Im

L G

B m

H m

“At Madonna’s ‘Sex’ book party, I had my outfit — an S&M-looking, custommade one-piece leather corset. But my designer didn’t make a snap crotch, so I couldn’t pee all night because the leather was too hard to pull to the side. I never used it again after that night, much to my hubby’s disappointment.”

— Sanaa Lathan

Taraji P. Henson

“I walked two New York City blocks with the back of one side of my dress stuck in my sheer tights before a nice woman told me. My whole left cheek was exposed. I was horrified!”

Maria Bello

“I was wearing Spanx once, to an awards show, underneath a dress with a really tight pencil skirt. I had to go to the bathroom, but the dress was so tight I couldn’t get my Spanx off. My publicist had to come with me to the bathroom and help me out of my dress.” — Maria Bello

— Taraji P. Henson

Debra Messing

“I got a full-length La Perla gown once in a gift suite. I was so happy I didn’t have to spend $1,000 on it. I haven’t worn it yet. I am waiting for that special someone, my Happily Ever After Guy.”

— Debra Messing

“I seem to continue having these strapless bras that always end up around my waist. There’s nothing like standing on the red carpet as you feel your bra slipping down to your waist. You try to find a bush to hide behind to pull it back up. A really scary personal moment is wearing Fashion [nipple] Petals by Fashion Forms, going home exhausted at night, forgetting to take them off before going to bed and taking a shower in the morning with them still on. It’s enough to scare you to death.” — Melissa Rivers

— Nancy Davis (philanthropist, socialite, jewelry designer)

“The first time I was given lingerie was by my thenboyfriend, who is now my husband. It was a long aqua silk gown from Victoria’s Secret, and I remember thinking, Now I am officially a woman. I still have the gown.”

“When a man gives you lingerie, it means something, because it means they went to the trouble of embarrassing themselves to walk into a lingerie store. It means they care.”

Nancy Davis

Kristen Bell

— Evan Rachel Wood

Debi Mazar

ivingston/ etty

Evan Rachel Wood

— Virginia Madsen

“During ‘Forgetting Sarah Marshall,’ because there were so many funny sex scenes we ran out of pasties between Mila [Kunis] and me. Oh, and we were in Hawaii and there were no stores, but you have to make sure you’re covered. Just God forbid it makes it into the frame. I mean if you have to Magic Marker ’em, do it! I remember at one point using bright pink gaffer tape across my chest just because I’m like, ‘You’re not getting it! Nobody’s getting it, guys. We don’t have pasties? I’m going to use gaffer’s tape!’ It’s not really lingerie, but…” — Kristen Bell

“Hmm…well there’s a lot. Agent Provocateur, Frederick’s — I did it all. I have so many stockings I don’t even know what to do. My cat has a field day with them.”

Ludacris

“I don’t wear lingerie. No, I’m kidding! I just remember seeing [expensive lingerie items] and knowing that I couldn’t afford them, and then when I could, I realized that I should not spend that kind of money on things that I’m going to rip off anyway. Save your money!”

“Ludacris” Bridges

Virginia Madsen

“Maybe performing on stage and women throwing their lingerie onto the stage. Bras, all kinds of stuff. Then you give it to the Goodwill. It’s a recession, you know what I mean? They need bras and panties, too.” — Christopher

“I did a shoot in a lot of Dita Von Teese’s lingerie that came out for Wonderbra, and that was probably the best fit ever. I kind of have that same hourglass [figure]. Obviously I’m not as gorgeous as the walking, living Dita, [but it was a] perfect [fit]. It’s Katy Perry one of those things that I didn’t have to buy vintage lingerie that was, like, worn by, you know, three other women before me.” — Katy Perry

“In the Seventies no one wore underwear or bras…we wore very long dresses for day with flowy skirts or pants. Needless to say, it was a very cool, breezy decade.” — Norma Kamali

Norma Kamali

ages; u a ris by John hearer/Wire age; Ma sen by

Everyone has a special lingerie memory, whether it’s a romantic tryst, an aspirational desire, a funny moment or an embarrassing situation. WWD asked celebrities and designers for their lingerie moments that truly stand out.

Davis photo by ilvia Mautner hotography; ello by Jeffrey Mayer/Wirei age; Ka ali by van gostini/ etty ages; ivers by Cha u hanan/ etty ages; athan by regg De uire/Wire age; erry by Davi Kevin Mazur/Wire age; Woo by teve ranitz/Wire age; enson by razer arrison/ etty ages; ell by ester Cohen/Wire age; Messing by teve i hner; Mazar by John Calabrese

No Panty Line Promise Shaper ÂŽ

Inspired by the beauty of your natural form. Inspiring a new attitude in shapers.

V-Neck Camisole

Mini

Brief

Hi-Waist

For more information contact Milou Gwyn at Jockey International, Inc. (212) 840-4900 Ext. 4904. ÂŠ 2009 Jockey International, Inc. World Rights Reserved. Jockey Swirl Icon and No Panty Line Promise are trademarks of Jockey International, Inc.

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2009

SECTION II

WWD INTIMATES UNDERCURRENTS

WWD.COM

Au Naturale Lingerie lines redefine a fresh pair.

By Jessica Iredale Some say green is the new luxury, but it seems it’s becoming the new basic, particularly when it comes to intimates. Indeed, the industry has been caught in the green sweep, not surprising considering organic cottons make an obvious conscientious cloth for underwear essentials. While plenty of exclusively eco labels such as Peau-Ethique and G=9.8 have been selling sustainable skivvies for years, their conventional counterparts — Cosabella, Hanky Panky and Belabumbum among them — have recently joined the green team. It boils down to practicality and politics. There’s no denying eco-chic has struck a chord with consumers. Consider Hanky Panky’s organic cotton thong. Sell-throughs were so strong after its introduction last spring, the firm upped its eco ante considerably with a full collection of organic styles for 2009. “[The thong] proved there is a market for organic products,” says Hanky Panky president and creative director Gale Epstein. Cosabella, a favorite with the celebrity set, has also increased its sustainable supply to meet demand. After introducing the basic Bamboo collection for fall 2007, Cosabella expanded its eco offer with Eden, Bamboo’s sibling collection, for fall 2008. The effort continues for 2009 with the Bamboo shapewear line and Devon, Cosabella’s first organic cotton collection that explores the sweet, slightly sexy side of sustainability. As Guido Campello, Cosabella’s vice president of product innovation, sees it, environmentally minded innerwear, “is the next step for everybody.” Such a statement has become a more convenient truth thanks to the great strides being made in low-impact processes, from dye treatments to the finer, softer fabrics required for everyday undies. Skin Lingerie’s Susan Beischel started her organic collection in 2006. The line now includes sleepwear, loungewear and, most recently, organic cotton panties. “I would love for the whole collection to be organic,” says Beischel. “But I’m known for my soft fabrics and it wasn’t until this past year that I was able to find the really fine cotton yarn that I wanted in organic.” Quality and comfort aside, eco can often mean expensive, but Cosabella and Skin are both taking measures to keep prices in check. According to Campello, Cosabella’s Bamboo and Devon collections will be in the same countertop price range ($20 to $26) as the label’s viscose thongs. Meanwhile, Beischel has priced Skin’s organic line lower than its regular collections to “attract a younger consumer who might be more willing to change her ways.” As Skin’s trademarked slogan says, “Change Your Underwear.”

From top left: Skin’s organic cotton boy short; Cosabella’s organic cotton thong; Belabumbum’s bamboo bralette and camisole; Hanky Panky’s organic cotton boy short; Skin’s organic cotton bralette.

photos by Thomas Iannaccone; fashion assistant: heather viggiani; styled by Christina Roperti

INNOVATION

YOU OU WILL

LOVE.

INTRODUCING

LYCRA 2.0 GARMENT ®

TECHNOLOGY

Introducing LYCRA® 2.0 tape, an innovative new technology that features patented products that provide unprecedented stretch and recovery to garments with bonded hems, seams and bands. The first product of the LYCRA® 2.0 garment technology platform, LYCRA® 2.0 tape not only fulfills the LYCRA® brand promise of comfort, fit and freedom of movement, it gives it new meaning. Students from across the globe designed intimate apparel using the new patented technology from INVISTA. Brandon Grimm best showcased the unique benefits of LYCRA® 2.0 tape — all-day fit with smooth, sleek looks — and impressed a distinguished international panel of judges from the textile industry at the finale at Mode City in Paris. To find out more about LYCRA® 2.0 tape, contact Roseann Beutell at 212-512-9213, Roseann.Beutel@invista.com or visit www.lycra.com LYCRA® fiber and 2.0 garment technology are trademarks of INVISTA. ©2009 INVISTA.

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2009

SECTION II

WWD.COM

WWD INTIMATES UNDERCURRENTS

Cheap and Chic

Drugstore lingerie makes a sound prescription in a tough economy.

In the box, from left: No Nonsense’s cotton and spandex two-pack panties; Hanes’ cotton three-pack panties; L’eggs’ nylon and spandex shaper. Below: Hanes’ nylon and spandex bra.

By Priya Rao With the recession showing no signs of endING, some consumers are looking for more innovative ways to spend and save on all purchases, even intimates. With this in mind, recessionistas should take a closer look at the bras, panties, and shapewear found on their drugstore shelves while filling up on their Crest and Clorox. Rite Aid, which sells Hanes and No Nonsense, for instance, has seen slight growth in this category in the last six months, according to Tom O’Brien, assistant category manager of general merchandise. “The story of the day is how to save money, and drugstores offer the convenience factor,” he says. And Rite Aid isn’t the only one. Walgreens spokesperson Tiffani Washington acknowledges a similar trade-down effect occurring at their stores since people are looking for more affordable options. While it may seem that drugstore underwear purchasing for the fashion set should be reserved for incase-of-emergency situations, there is no denying the reputable brands that are sold there. Of course, one is sure to find the tried-and-true Hanes three-pack of women’s white cotton briefs for a wallet-friendly $5.99, but the assortment is actually surprisingly rich with stylish choices. Duane Reade’s selection includes a Hanes two-pack of blue solid and striped opaque boyshorts for $6.99, which one sales associate in Midtown Manhattan calls the “best bang for your buck because of their comfort and coverage,” as well as a sleek black underwire bra for $9.99. Linda Becker, expert bra fitter and owner of Linda’s Bra Salon, was skeptical upon hearing that you can find bras at the drugstore, saying, “Where could you try them on? It never pays off to buy a bra if it isn’t fitted.” At Walgreens in Gramercy, bargain hunters can find a pair of Fruit of the Loom flirty, hot pink track shorts for $4.88 and L’eggs waist cinchers available in black and nude for $6.99. And Rite Aid in Grand Central Station offers No Nonsense panties in sets of two for $6.99 in pastel colors, animal print and polkadot. “Customers tell us every day, ‘Really? You can get panties like this in drugstores? You’re kidding me,’ ” says Julia Townsend, executive vice president and general manager of the Kayser-Roth Corp., which owns No Nonsense. After years of providing reliable panty hose, the brand launched underwear in 2004. Although some retailers are having a trying time, No Nonsense’s intimates and sleepwear business is flat to last year and the company expects it to grow to be 10 percent of their brand by 2012. Townsend even sees the current economic climate as an opportunity: “Think about it: We’re in a recession right now. It’s nonsense to spend more than we have to.” Indeed, Maricela Pena, a 25-year-old recruiting agency director who regularly buys panty hose and leggings at CVS agrees. “The economy has made me reconsider all of the items I used to think of as a necessity, like Victoria’s Secret underwear, which is now a luxury,” she says. But while some shoppers are new to the concept of buying their skivvies where they buy their Tylenol, others have been relying on their local convenience store for years. Jewelry designer Linda Krauss, 66, has been going to Duane Reade for Hanes briefs since her teens. “They are indestructible, comfortable and the price is right. If people had good horse sense, they would always buy their undies at the drugstore.”

photos by Thomas Iannaccone and Robert Mitra; fashion assistants: heather viggiani and alyssa alper; styled by court williams

Lenzing AG, A-4860 Lenzing, Austria

BOTANIC PRINCIPLES

Lenzing Modal® Makes the World a Softer Place

Lenzing is world market leader among cellulose fiber manufacturers and produces TENCEL®, Lenzing Modal®, Lenzing FR® and Lenzing Viscose®.

www.lenzing.com

Lenzing Modal® - Softness from Nature With Lenzing Modal® you can feel the naturalness of the fiber right away since botanic principles are applied throughout the complete manufacturing process. The water management of plants, closed circuits and sustainability are all important functions from Nature on which the Lenzing Modal® production process is based. In its capacity as a natural softener the fiber is characterized by a low rigidity and a smooth surface. Lenzing Modal® is the optimum natural solution for figure-hugging textiles.

World Leader in Cellulose Fiber Technology

10 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2009 SECTION II

Shape Shifters WWD INTIMATES

No need to wait for the miracle surgeries of tomorrow. Today’s fast-growing shapewear industry is helping women and men alike get closer to the body of their dreams.

photo by talaya centeno; models: holly/wilhelmina and chris davis/q; hair by daria wright/dariawright.com; makeup by william murphy/de facto for mac pro; fashion assistant: heather viggiani; styled by court williams

FIGURE IT OUT It’s OK for women to talk about their shapewear. From the red carpet to Oprah’s couch, Hollywood stars from Queen Latifah to Maria Bello are proudly talking about what they’re wearing under their clothes to help smooth out their trouble spots. At last year’s Oscars, for example, Latifah told reporters about more than her dress, announcing, “I’m wearing a Curvation [bra] and Spanx.” Gwen Widell, executive vice president of merchandising at Wacoal America Inc., says, “I was watching the Golden Globes, and celebrities were all talking about wearing Spanx, or a longline bra. That wasn’t acceptable even a year ago. It’s working for shapewear because technological advances are allowing us to eliminate layers and remove bulk.” Following the Spanx phenomenon, which started in 2000, and spread to Sculptz in 2003 and Cass & Co. and Sassybax in 2007, the segment has exploded in recent years. Oprah was a big factor in getting Spanx on the map in 2000 when she told viewers, “I’ve given up pantyhose. You get smoothness all the way down. You don’t have the panty line…OK….I should own some stock.” High-end players like Donna Karan Intimates have joined the field, as have established brands such as Wacoal, Playtex, Bali, Warners, Flexees, Jockey, Hanes, Body Wrap, Va Bien, Rago and QT. Joyce Baran, a 30-year veteran of shapewear design and founder of product development firm JBD LLC, says, “People used to say shapewear was unmentionable. Now it’s bragable. You see it being talked about on the red carpet. It’s nothing to be ashamed of.” Baran has helped develop the Secret Weapons and Du-Mi brands. In the past year, more than a dozen new shapewear brands have entered the field. Several are entrepreneurial firms headed by young designers who maintain they couldn’t find a shaper to properly address their figure problems — from eliminating belly bulge to smoothing out lines — so they decided to make their own. “I designed the product for myself after my two babies were born,” says Heather Thomson, designer of Yummie Tummie. “There were all of these shapewear products out there, but they didn’t work. I wanted a beautiful control tank top to flatten my muffin top, and I wanted to be comfortable and look hip and cool. So I designed an item with two fabrics sewn together: 50-singles cotton and polyester-tricot. It can be worn under a jacket, and when the jacket is off, it looks very corseted.” Staci Berner, a cosmetician, created Shapeez, a line of full-busted bras with extra coverage across the back to smooth bulges under knits and tight-fitting apparel. “There were a lot of tops I couldn’t wear, and I went on a shopping search and found nothing with the smoothing properties I wanted,” she says. “I had this stretchy fabric and took the components from a bra and made myself a great bra that gave breast support and no back bulges. In reality, if you can’t find it, make it.” Other new brands include Secret Weapons, Slimpressions, Du-Mi, Top Secret, Sonic Slimmers, MMK Brands, T Mates, Squeem, Atateks, D’talles de Mujer, and Flabulous, a product designed to manage arm flab. In addition, Cosabella is expanding into shapewear this fall, with an eco-friendly bamboo-blend collection called Cosabella Smoothy. Designers have a range of cutting-edge fabrics and applications at their disposal, with seamless and heatsealed technologies that offer feather light, breathable control items that move with the body and feel like a second skin. Bulging seams and boning that can produce unnatural contours and thick nylon or power mesh layers that move unflattering inches to other parts of the body are gone. Among the innovative ideas are allover seamless Santoni knits that fit like a glove — a technology that has advanced over the past decade with a variety of textures and fashion prints that are now used industrywide from Target private label to luxe Natori fare. Other advancements include knit-in engineered control for problem areas like the tummy and thighs, lazer-cut edges that leave no lines, and dotted silicone compression insets and laminated control panels, which give extra control as well as a retro look. The newest part of the equation is Invista’s Lycra 2.0 technology, which is aimed primarily at shapewear and provides heat-sealed banded hems, seams and bands with stretch and recovery for a sleek, all-day fit. There’s also a new generation of buttery-soft microfibers ranging from fabric and fibers made by Nylstar’s Italian brand Meryl, to Hyosung’s Creora brand of spandex and microfiber. But not all innovation centers around support itself. For example, Invista’s White Lycra, launched last year, doesn’t yellow after washings, while Black Lycra, introduced in 2007, imparts black fabrics with a purer black while enhancing bright colors. Lycra freshFX, meanwhile, wicks away moisture for a fresh, dry feeling. Sizing up the shapewear phenomenon, Jessica Alba confessed in 2005 that in order to fit into her skin-tight blue suit in the motion picture “Fantastic Four,” she needed a shaper to look good at all times. “I have to hold my stomach in… it’s really not forgiving at all and if it’s that time of month, whatever, it shows everything. I wear this stuff called Spanx. I appreciate that.”

— Karyn Monget

CERTIFIED MALE Mars is taking lessons from Venus…again. Historically, women have been subjected to all types of bindings to optimize their appearance. Now, growing numbers of men are beginning to realize the gym isn’t the only way to a better physique — or at least the appearance of one. “Men are becoming aware of what it takes to put their best foot forward,” says Gavin Jones, managing director at Equmen, an Australia-based men’s underwear label. “And they’re willing to invest in products that help them do it.” Based on the sales growth in male shapers, it looks like manufacturers of men’s intimates are getting a nice piece of that pie. “We launched our male collection this past year after we kept getting requests from men for our female body shapers,” says Janette Chakeres, president of Discovery Direct Inc., which distributes GearCom. “Since men’s physiology is very different, we wanted to give them some healthy options.” Though men’s everyday or lifestyle shapers are designed for cosmetic purposes, they are heavily influenced by post-op compression clothing and wrap garments used in physical therapy to improve circulation and support muscles. In fact, a lot of shapewear manufacturers have origins, or at least a solid business, in medical apparel. “We still produce several orthopedic products including some specialty compression items like tights and girdles,” says Chakeres. As shapers have grown in popularity with men, the market has opened up for more design-based items, but mixing style with function is key. “A lot of our ideas come from customers who’ve had cosmetic or corrective surgeries,” says Alex Hernandez, vice president of Go Softwear. “They’ll use our products for medicinal purposes and come back with some great suggestions that ultimately improve the garment’s look and fit.” Augmentation is also popular in the market, although product categories like body trimmers and waist eliminators scream of cinching things in. A growing number of products are designed to help men add a few carats to the family jewels or get the derrière extraordinaire they never had. “Padded underwear, back or front, are always best-selling items for us,” says Hernandez. Lower body not the issue? No problem. Beyond underwear, manufacturers are producing tanks and Ts with pecs and abs built right in. While the target shapewear customer used to be a middle-aged man wanting to fit into contemporary fashion’s trimmer silhouettes, padded undergarments have opened the doorway to guys in good shape who just want to kick their look up a notch. “Right now, about 60 percent of our business is in shape trimmers,” says Robert Grey, director of merchandising and acting president of Undergear. “But the 40 percent taken up by padded pieces is steadily growing and there’s certainly room for us to expand offerings.” At this rate, who knows what the future will bring — perhaps long johns with calf and thigh pads can’t be too far off. One thing is certain: While it’s true the clothes don’t make the man, the newest shapers come pretty close.

— Court Williams

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2009

WWD.COM

Sculpture Class

1930s

1940s

— K.M.

1990s

1950s 1960s

1980s s

On her: Cass and Co.’s nylon and spandex full slip. On him: GearCom’s Meryl SkinLife nylon and spandex abdominal cincher and high-waist boxer.

1970s

1900s photo BY Swim Ink 2, LLC/CORBIS; 1920s BY George Hoyningen-Huene/Corbis; 1930s BY Lake County Museum/CORBIS; 1940s BY Bettmann/CORBIS; 1950s BY Hulton-Deutsch Collection/CORBIS; 1960s BY Louis Faurer/Corbis; 1970s BY Lou Cypher/CORBIS; 1980s BY David Turner; 1990s BY Neal Preston/Corbis

1920s

1900s

Shapewear has traveled a long road From the inflexible and tortuous whalebone and buffalo-horn corsetry of yesteryear to the soft, allover seamless briefs with high-tech knit-in control prevalent today. Shapewear, no matter how frilly, silly or utilitarian, has evolved through the decades in a wide array of styles, ranging from the ridiculous to the sublime. The woman of the Gay 1890s coveted the hourglass figure created by underpinnings such as Rust-Proof Corsets by Warner’s. The quest for curves in the Roaring Twenties flatlined when small chests were in style and the fashionable flapper wore a bandeau to compress a generous bosom. The demand for curvaceous women resurfaced in the Thirties, thanks to Hollywood sirens such as Greta Garbo and Jean Harlow. But corsetry returned in uncomfortable rubber and cloth renditions that featured little breathability, creating a personal sauna for the wearer. Rosie the Riveter may have worn overalls on the World War II assembly line, but by night she wore corsetry that bridged the gap between the lace-up corselets of the 1890s and true lingerie fare in silk, brocade and lace. The Fifties not only brought a baby boom, but also ushered in a new generation of panty girdles, many of which featured high-waist treatments and could be worn with coordinating bullet bras. An axiom of the Sixties, “Burn, baby, burn,” appropriately describes the discomfort foundations makers felt as feminists torched their bras. But many women still needed to tuck in their tummies and thighs, and longline girdles with attachable garters remained popular until Lycra spandex pantyhose became common. Disco Fever ruled in the Seventies, and the girdle business offered up a range of whimsical prints and lighter-weight nylon and Lycra styles to wear with HotPants and skin-tight Disco pants. Girdles began crossing over into what we know as shapewear in the Eighties in a variety of styles and support levels, including all-in-one body briefers with built-in push-up bras. A major influence in the Nineties was the introduction of Donna Karan Intimates and the designer’s love of shapewear in both intimates and legwear. Hipslip, a control slip created by Bodyslimmers by Nancy Ganz became a household name in fashion circles, and Ganz created a slew of memorable names for her shapers like The Belly Buster and The Butt Booster. The new Millennium kicked off with the Spanx craze and comfortable, seamless shapewear for all occasions now rules the day.

12 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2009 SECTION II

wwd INTIMATES

Frill Seekers

PAMELA’S PARASOLS.

photos by robert mitra and john aquino

What girl wouldn’t go for all that flirty lingerie? And she’ll find it for fall, full of ruffles and laces that are at once pretty and sexy.

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b.tempt’d by WACOAL nylon and spandex bra.

HAUTE BY CAROL MALONY nylon, polyester and Lycra panty.

CALVIN KLEIN UNDERWEAR nylon, Lycra and elastane thong. STELLA McCARTNEY silk, lace and satin thong.

MARY GREEN silk sleeping mask.

SEXY PANTIES AND NAUGHTY KNICKERS silk chiffon panty and matching bra.

CAROL MALONY nylon and spandex panty and matching bra.

DIESEL nylon and spandex panty.

ANTHROPOLOGIE cotton shorts. B.tempt’d by WACOAL spandex panty.

ABC CARPET & HOME pillow. IN BLOOM by JONQUIL polyester slip. SALLY JONES nylon, viscose and elastane slip.

FLORA NIKROOZ layered netting with edge lace and ribbon trim camisole.

JONQUIL polyester and satin slip.

14 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2009 SECTION II

WWD INTIMATES

Animal Rights

ENVIORNMENT 337.

photos by RObert mitra and john aquino

From snakes to zebras, animal prints are now a classic. Tiny thongs, delicate slips and nighties are all fair game.

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FRENCH SOLES shoes.

NATORI polyester slip.

CASS nylon and spandex brief.

PARAH silk, nylon and spandex garter belt with attached thong.

FRUIT OF THE LOOM cotton bra. CALVIN KLEIN UNDERWEAR nylon, Lycra and elastane bra.

DEREON modal and spandex thong.

BABY PHAT cotton and spandex panty.

JONQUIL silk babydoll.

PAPYRUS journal.

MoMA bowls.

SMART & SEXY nylon and spandex panty.

JOSIE NATORI tactel, nylon and Lycra bra.

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WWD INTIMATES

Flip Side

T. Anthony.

photos by ROBERT MITRA and john aquino

Solo or together, your basic black and white play the perfect foil for the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lingerie, featuring simple shapes, graphic prints and lots of lace.

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HANRO cotton and silk panty.

PASCALE MADONNA PARIS polyester panty.

COSABELLA polyamide camisole.

JOCKEY cotton and spandex camisole.

FRUIT OF THE LOOM cotton and Lycra spandex chemise.

BURTON polyester and spandex top.

LAVIT bamboo viscose top.

JOSIE NATORI tactel nylon and Lycra bra.

b.temptâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d by WACOAL nylon and spandex bra.

JOCKEY cotton and spandex top.

PASCALE MADONNA PARIS polyester bra.

ONLY HEARTS rayon and polyester leggings.

NAUTICA SLEEPWEAR supima cotton pants.

AMERICAN APPAREL cotton and elastane leggings.

18 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2009 SECTION II

WWD INTIMATES

Cozy Up

ANTHROPOLOGIE.

photos by john aquino, thomas iannaccone and robert Mitra

In times like these, being comfortable can be just what the doctor ordered. Lingerie designers are answering the call with rich cashmere robes and pajamas, sporty looks for more casual fare and outright sexy lingerie for another mood.

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JOSIE cotton and polyester camisole.

ELISE AUCOUTURIER silk thong. HANKY PANKY rayon brief.

EBERJEY rayon shorts.

AMERICAN APPAREL cotton jumpsuit.

JOSIE polyester robe.

NAUTICA SLEEPWEAR supima cotton robe.

ANTHROPOLOGIE puzzle.

LOVE JUNKIE book by Rachel Resnick and published by Bloomsbury.

FRETTE cashmere socks.

HANKY PANKY rayon and spandex camisole. AND GOD CREATED WOMAN woven cashmere robe with silk satin belt.

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WWD IntImates

Baby, It’s Cold Outside Designers offer cold-weather undergarments that focus on warmth and style. By Sarah Haight Plunging temPeratures. Darkening sky at five o’clock in the afternoon. flannel sheets. let’s face it: none of these things exactly inspire one to slip into a little something silky. indeed, the seasonal change from warm to icy weather is the cozy-clothes bellwether, the time when delicate underthings get relegated to the back of the drawer. But a few designers have their eye on toasty undergarments and sleepwear that don’t scrimp on style. take, for instance, only hearts’ helena and kaya stuart, who developed two new rib qualities for their knit lingerie. “a cozy, wintry feeling,” was the look — and comfort — the designers were after, crafting bra sets (as well as leggings) out of heathered yarn. elsewhere there’s arlotta, designed by chris arlotta, which hews to the luxury-loungewear aesthetic: cashmere hoodies and wide-legged pants, long zip robes and tunics (each in wintry grays and icy pinks). in fact, cashmere plays a major role in many designers’ cold-weather creations, though the impact on the wallet varies. While marc Jacobs has long turned out terrific waffle-weave cashmere thermals in a kaleidoscope of colors, the price tag for such pieces is not exactly recession-friendly (a pair of leggings can run upwards of $500). victoria’s secret, on the other hand, has begun putting forth cashmere boy shorts and bras in a whimsical pointelle pattern, retailing for under $100, and the company’s drawstring pants and sweaters look fireside-lounge-ready. for the more pragmatic woman — she who eschews the sexy lingerie once november hits — natori is offering simple tops and pants in a buttery-soft knit that drapes gently around the body, a combo the company calls the Beijing. “[it’s] the ultimate at home for cold weather,” explains Josie natori. “We designed the most easy and comfortable silhouette in the softest and most cozy fabric that feels good.” and then there’s american apparel, a company whose layered leisurewear is easily worn in the chillier months. the label may trade on sex appeal, but its hipster shorts and array of leggings — in cotton, ideal for piling on — offer the right kind of coverage.

Be Sensitive Sensitive to quality, Sensitive to the environment

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it i vec

nt lity ua onme oq e t nvir itiv he e ns Se e to t itiv it ns m. Se ste sy co ive sit n se w. ww

REPRESENTATIVE FOR US MARKET Roberta Bonifacio Tel: +1 562 439 8447 Mobile: +1 562 244 4890 e-mail: rbonifacioeurojersey.com

Fabric made in Italy only by

www.sensitivecosystem.it Each day we work to improve the most innovative fabric in the world by striving for excellence in full respect of the environment

Only Hearts rayon and spandex bralette and matching panty.

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The Natori Beijing polyester and rayon pajama set.

photoS BY thoMAS IAnnAccone

American Apparel polyester, cotton and acrylic leggings.

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WWD IntImates

Tricks of the Trade Cheeky gimmicks and quirky ideas lighten intimate apparel purchases.

Frilly knickers and luxe lingerie aside, underwear is by most people’s standards a bare necessity. but judging from all the novelty items out there, it seems the banality of such basics begs to be spun into something more. like t-shirts, intimates — underpants in particular — is a genre prime for all manner of angles, ranging from kitsch to convenience. consider the age-old days-of-the-week undie campaign, recently coopted by stella mccartney to adorable effect. whether girls ever coordinated their drawers to their designated day, the weekday motif has become a classic. it’s a conceit that’s inspired an endless supply of specialty thongs and panties for every marketable occasion — weddings, Halloween, christmas, Valentine’s day, even current events: a simple google search turned up at least three sites peddling obama undies. silly though it seems, people buy into such novelty acts. take, for example, t-box, a line of cotton pieces, thongs and boyshorts among them, which are compressed and packaged to look like candy, butterflies and ice cream cones. “the idea is it’s an impulse buy,” says Zeynep ergin-Vitale, vice president of t-box usa. “the brand is for fastconsumption retail. it’s by the cash register — the customer likes the packaging, they pick it up. it’s an eye-directly-to-the-brain type of thing.” not to mention gimmicky, for which t-box isn’t apologizing. the line, owned by turkish retail giant the boyner group, launched in the u.s. in november, and intimates accounts for approximately a third of boyner’s $1 billion in worldwide sales. as owner of urban aid, purveyor of cheeky travel kits (the shame on you kit includes a pair of panties, a toothbrush and a “leave behind” note, among other personal products, for the girl on the go), karen barnett also cashes in on quirky concepts. “we use humor in the copy and the packaging to explain ourselves and to pull you in,” says barnett, who worked in product development and packaging for disney and mattel before launching urban aid in 2005. “everything is supposed to be funny.”

Suzanne Gabos’ Discreet Chic cases.

photos by RobeRt mitRa and thomas iannaccone

By Jessica Iredale

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WWD.COM

Flingwear portable underwear.

Stella McCartney’s days of the week drawers.

T-box’s packaged undies.

Elsewhere, things are meant to be functional. Years of constant business travel inspired former corporate marketing exec Kathryn Lawrence Thigpen to develop Flingwear, a line of individually packaged, portable thongs, launched in October. “I found that I wanted to have some travel-ready, convenient and comfortable thongs that would be packaged so they wouldn’t take up a lot of space in my suitcase,” says Thigpen. For those not convinced about the space issue, she adds: “Or [just] for someone who is always packing and unpacking.” Her Flingwear is available as singles, zipped up in little plastic Baggies, or a pack of three, called the Weekender. A similar travel-minded philosophy extends to Suzanne Gabos’ Discreet Chic, a collection of leather travel cases compartmentalized for clean and dirty underwear (the Panty Pouch) and feminine products, which made its debut in October. Gabos’ business was born out of a lifetime of embarrassing moments. “Things are always falling out of a woman’s purse, gym bag, suitcase, briefcase,” says Gabos, a former stayat-home mom who reentered the workforce with Discreet Chic. And all it took was one idea, and maybe a few tag lines. “We have a lot of them,” she says. “‘Hide and Chic’ is the newest.”