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Fagotto Books: 15 Valtetsiou Street, Athens 10680, Greece Telephone: 210.3645147 Fax: 210.3645149 Lefkada branch: 7 Zakynthou Street 31100, Lefkada, Greece Telephone/Fax: 26450.21095
www.fagottobooks.gr / info@fagottobooks.gr
Published in 2015 /Š 2015 Fagotto Books
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.
CONTENTS INTRODUCTION
5
GUIDE FOR A SHORT BREAK
7
THE HISTORY OF THE ISLAND
9
LEFKADA:
• History of the town
11
• The town’s architecture
13
• Sightseeing
25
• Literature and the arts
33
• Distinguished citizens of Lefkada
37
DISCOVERING THE ISLAND
43
• The town’s environs
45
• Beaches nearby
61
• The fort of Aghia Mavra
65
ROUTE 1: Eastern Lefkada and the interior
67
ROUTE 2: Nydri and the surrounding areas
75
Meganisi - Kalamos - Kastos ROUTE 3: Western Lefkada - Beaches
89 99
ROUTE 4: South-Western Lefkada – Beaches – Cape Lefkatas
107
ROUTE 5: Central interior
113
ROUTE 6: Northern interior
127
ROUTE 7: Southern Lefkada
137
ADVENTURE ROUTES ROUTE P1: Hinterland
145
ROUTE P2: Eastern interior
148
ROUTE P3 - P4: South-western Lefkada
151
THE FLORA OF LEFKADA
157
CUSTOMS AND MANNERS
160
THE CUISINE OF LEFKADA
163
FOOD AND FUN
169
AFTERWORD
173
USEFUL INFORMATION
174
CONTRIBUTORS
176
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INTRODUCTION Lefkada is but a five hours’ drive from Athens and five and a half from Thessaloniki, in effect almost joined to the mainland (Continental Greece). It therefore combines the convenience of a destination accessible by land with an island’s beauties: an endless coastline, with a thousand shades of colour, difficult for the most subtle palette to capture, Lefkada’s landscape combines scenery both idyllic and rugged, inviting the visitor to roam in the history of the Ionian Islands while giving the satisfaction of discovering exciting secrets in every corner of the island. Lefkada - a Garden of Eden of colours, sounds and aromas On a background of the azure hues of the Ionian Sea, the mystic iridescence of the lagoon, the variety of shades of green in abundant verdure and countless colours when spring breaks out or after the first autumn rains when “the leaves turn to red along bushy footpaths”, the lucid clarity of atmosphere from the mountain air of the ranges of Epirus and Aitoloakarnania next to it across the water, fish jumping in the shimmering path of the August moon, and the appealing village houses. Here, the silence of noon in summer is accompanied by the rustle of silver-green leaves of the age-old olive groves stroked by the cool north-westerly wind, and in cold weather the sound of rain on corrugated iron beats to the rhythm of the warmth and snugness of home. Amidst all of this the townspeople go about their peaceful occupations as did the foregoing generations, active in the Philharmonic, the clubs and societies and the libraries and museums. Strolling around the town’s quiet little streets, the visitor will get to know its history and its churches, the mansions where once prominent personalities of Lefkada lived who have left their mark on the letters and the arts of the whole of Greece, and the alleyways that bore witness to significant moments of contemporary Greek history. For us who love Lefkada, it is all of this and in this guide we endeavour to disclose it to you.
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GUIDE FOR A SHORT BREAK
For visitors spending only a long weekend, there are three basic routes covering a good portion of the island. Route 2 explores a large part of the island’s eastern side. It runs along the coast of the generally calm straits separating Lefkada from Aitoloakarnania, among plentiful greenery, past sites of archaeological interest and villages with enticing fish tavernas. This route can be enjoyed under any weather conditions, and for a swim it offers sheltered beaches where the sea is almost never rough. The abundant vegetation reaches down to the shore, embellishing the landscape with all its shades of green and blends with the spectrum of blues of the sea. Routes 4 and 5 traverse the island’s western side, abrupt and steeply rocky, with fantastic seascapes. Some of the most beautiful beaches of the Mediterranean are to be found on this side of the island and the remarkable landmark Cape Lefkatas, also called Kavos tis Kyras. These routes lead to the beaches for which Lefkada is justly famous: Kathisma, Egkremni and Porto Katsiki. If you visit the island during the peak season (20/7-20/8), especially over a long weekend, these beaches are best visited either early in the morning or near sunset, else the crowds will be a problem. In the course of the day, you can visit Egkremni beach (close to Porto Katsiki) if you are in good form, for there are many steps, or Mylos beach at Aghios Nikitas , or the beaches of Kalamitsi or Pefkoulia. Just as attractive are the beaches around the town: Kastro, Gyra, and Ai Yannis, preferred by the locals. If you have time for one more route, we suggest route 6 leading to the hilly interior, where the agricultural character of the countryside remains mostly unadulterated, with villages of stone houses, where women still dress in regional costumes, and fields are still cultivated despite the hardships. Do not miss spending some time in the vicinity of Lefkada town, preferably on foot or by bicycle, to Gyra, to the lagoon, Ai Yannis and the Venetian olive grove, as well as a stroll around the streets called kandounia of the old town, which will give you a good first taste of Lefkada.
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The boatyard for small craft in the channel
Lefkada’s Marina
LEFKADA / THE TOWN' S ARCHITECTURE
Lefkada’s Marina One of Lefkada’s most recent acquisitions is the marina, the most modern in Greece, situated on the east side of the town. Its mooring capacity is for 620 boats and its buildings comprise a control tower, a multi-purpose building, sailing club offices, a complex of offices and shops, a small hotel, a boat repair and maintenance facility, parking for 455 cars, winter mooring for 300 boats, a road network and a green belt. It has a 1700 metre - long breakwater and 940 metres of floating wharfs. It is a town within the town of Lefkada with its own life, bars and restaurants also frequented by non boat - owners to enjoy its comforts and the picture of the liquid mirror of the channel reflecting the rosy fingers of the sunrise and the mystique of the moonlight.
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