Portes Magazine | Summer 2014 by Portes Magazine

Summer 2014

Chic. Greek. Unique.

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{Made in Greece} ARISTON FOUNDATION publisher ANTHE & VASILIKI MITRAKOS executive editors ANDRONIKI PAPADOPOULOS managing editor FOUR DOORS MEDIA design & layout CONTRIBUTORS Christina Loridas Dimitris Polymenopoulos Katherine Poseidon Ioanna Stamoulou P OR TE SM AG A ZI NE .CO M The Fine Print Portes Magazine is published by Ariston Foundation, a nonprofit organization. No part of this publication may be reprinted or reproduced without prior written consent of the editor. The Portes Magazine logo is a design and registered trademark of Ariston Foundation. To contact Ariston Foundation, e-mail: contact@aristonfoundation.org. To contact Portes Magazine for ad placement or for other inquiries, e-mail: info@ portesmagazine.com. Or write to us at Ariston Foundation/ Portes Magazine P.O. Box 46064, Chicago, Illinois 60646.

from the editors The most anticipated season of the year is here! We welcome summer in Greece with open arms and a wide smile. Some of the most unique and memorable experiences in people’s lives are happening right here, right now, while countless life stories are written every day. In this issue we’ve yet again journeyed to bring you a taste of the wonderful world of Greece. We’ve collected the stories and images of artists, entrepreneurs, philanthropists…and people who love and believe in this country, just as much as we do. From our trip to the island of Alonissos where we visited the offices of MOm in charge of protecting the area’s endangered Mediterranean Monk Seal, to our interview with the creative-minded Living Postcards editor Iliada Kothra, and our study of the history of Fulbright Foundation in Greece, we present you with a number of stories we think you’ll find to be an interesting read. This season also brought us a number of thought-provoking Athens excursions we can’t wait to share with you. These included a visit to ancient sites, an alternative city graffiti tour, and a stray cat feeding tour, which was extra special for us as we’ve welcomed our own Athenian stray into the Portes family. Whether you’re living here or just visiting, it’s an exciting time to be in Greece. You have but to flip through a few pages of Portes to understand what we’re talking about. And with that stated… Καλό Καλοκαίρι!

Vasiliki & Anthe Mitrakos Portes Magazine Editors

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contributors

Ioanna Stamoulou loves to create sweets on a daily basis. She has worked on a number of cookbooks including the official Olympic Games Cookbook and Simple, Greek, and with a Smile. She is the author of the book Flavor Magic {Γεύση Μαγεία}, has served as director of publishing for the magazine One Thousand and One Flavors, as editorial director of Olive Magazine, and is the face behind the food blog sweetly.gr.

Christina Loridas has spent multiple summers in our beautiful Ελλάδα, studying, sitting around a full dinner table with κρασί and laughter, and cramming her notebooks full of words and poems on ferry rides across the Aegean. Writing is her passion, and Greece is her inspiration. Gentle winds, blue waters, and strums of the bouzouki have captivated her since childhood. She graduated from Suffolk University in Communication and Print Journalism, and has worked at Ionian Village.

Katherine Poseidon is a first-generation Greek-American currently living in Athens. After finishing high school in Ohio, she studied History and Middle Eastern Studies at Trinity College, Cambridge. Upon graduation, she moved to Athens to work as a Teaching Fellow at Athens College. Now pursuing a Masters at the University of Athens, she spends her free time traveling, writing, photographing, and exploring hidden corners of old Athens.

Dimitris Polymenopoulos is a freelance journalist and event photographer passionate about diaspora media. He received his degree in Mechanical Engineering and Naval Architecture from NTUA, but his interests ultimately got the better of him. He now spends his days writing great copy, capturing your most cherished moments with his trusty Pentax, and is part of a talented collective of artists and architects known as the Alternative Tours of Athens.

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on the inside ///

EVENTS & CELEBRATIONS Notable Global Greek Events ................................................................... 02

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FOUNDATION Fulbright Foundation in Greece ................................................................ 06

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BUSINESS Interview with: Theodore Vokos of Posidonia Exhibition ..........................14 Greek Shipping Industry ...........................................................................16

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COMMUNITY The Cats of Greece ................................................................................. 18

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DESTINATIONS Exploring Athens: Eight Ancient Sites ....................................................... 26 Discovering City Street Art ......................................................................... 32 Summer in Alonissos ................................................................................ 48

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CUISINE Sweet making with Ioanna Stamoulou ...................................................... 28

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ARTS & CULTURE

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ECOLOGY

Artist Profile: Zoe Keramea ...................................................................... 38 Gallery Portes .......................................................................................... 46

The Mediterranean Monk Seal ................................................................ 52

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FASHION Vitrina ....................................................................................................... 58 Designer: LoveGreece .............................................................................. 59

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PEOPLE Interview with: Iliada Kothra of Living Postcards ..................................... 56

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OUR PICKS Sip & Taste ................................................................................................ 31 This & That ................................................................................................. 61 portes magazine | summer 2014

take a piece of Greece with you anywhere you go...

Chic. Greek. Unique.

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PanHellenic Scholarship Foundation sponsors, friends & scholars attend the 2014 Awards Ceremony and Gala at the Hilton Chicago.

CHICAGO - Celebrating their 16th birthday, the PanHellenic Scholarship Foundation once again awarded $250,000 in scholarships to 40 students during their annual gala at the Hilton Chicago International Ballroom in June. Close to 500 supporters attended the event in honor of the Foundation’s scholars, programs, and initiatives, which include the Hellenic Birthright Program. “Our goal is to continue to expand our mission. Let us make the investment in the talents of our young people so that we may continue our great legacy of education and the pursuit of excellence,” PHSF Chairman Chris P. Tomaras said. “The success of the event was an extraordinary response from the community, in both the attendance and their financial participation.” James D. Speros, executive vice president and chief creative officer of Fidelity Investments, received this year’s PHSF Paradigm Award. The Foundation has, to date, awarded a total of $2 million to 264 Greek-American students pursuing undergraduate studies at accredited colleges and universities across the country.

The 2014 PanHellenic Scholarship Foundation award recipients.

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Left: SNF Co-President Andreas Dracopoulos kicks off the event with opening remarks. Right: A guest panel presents the SNF pilot program promoting entrepreneurship.

EVENTS & CELEBRATIONS

ATHENS Over 19,400 visitors from 96 countries attended the various functions of the 2014 Posidonia International Shipping Exhibition at the Metropolitan Expo this June. With a record setting total of 1,843 exhibitors this year, Posidonia week was full of conferences, seminars, workshops, and activities including the Posidonia golf, soccer, and sailing tournaments. Officially opened by Hellenic Republic Prime Minister Antonis Samaras, Posidonia 2014 was the exhibition’s most successful event to date. Started in 1969, the Posidonia Exhibition is hosted every two yeas. “This year, the main message about the Greek shipping industry was to demonstrate how Greeks and Greek shipping have invested enormous amounts of money in other countries,” Posidonia Executive Director Theodoros Vokos said.

ATHENS - With over 90 speakers from Greece and around the world, the third International Conference on Philanthropy, sponsored by the Stavros Niarchos Foundation, commenced in June at the Divani Apollon Palace & Spa. Featured presentations explored topics relating to philanthropy and ethics, arts and culture, and new youth employment initiatives in Greece. “All of us in the philanthropic world, whether in the receiving or the giving end, are concerned with doing what is good. But as we are dealing with an increasingly complex and challenging environment, we should be equally concerned with doing what is right,” SNF Co-president Andreas Dracopoulos said. Three new pilot programs were announced at the conference, each focused on supporting entrepreneurship, agricultural development, or promoting cultural tourism as part of the SNF’s €100 million Recharging the Youth initiative. Guests observed close to 20 thematic discussions coupled with several networking sessions during the conference. portes magazine | summer 2014

Students gather at the Bitcoin Center in New York with founder Nicholas Spanos.

NEW YORK - With a focus on Hellenic culture, traditions, and religion, the National Hellenic Student Association hosted their biannual convention in May, welcoming over 50 university students of Hellenic descent to discuss various topics with Greek-American community leaders. Speakers included Archon Dr. Cary Limberakis of the Order of St. Andrew the Apostle; Dr. Nicholas H.E. Mezitis, president of the Hellenic Medical Society of New York; Hellenic Hope, a U.K.-based non-profit; and Nicholas Spanos, founder of the Bitcoin Center in New York. Students also enjoyed a dinner social and had time to tour New York City over the weekend.

ATHENS – Ink meets fashion at the DressInk Project exhibition. A collection of creative apparel combined with graphic design posters, the project was presented at the chic Six D.o.g.s café bar in May by Corn Studio and PANSIK scuola di Moda. Close to 60 participants presented their pieces, and fashion expert Lakis Gavalas made a guest appearance to greet the young artists at the exhibit’s opening night. Above: Graphic designers, fashion students, and art enthusiasts gather at the DressInk exhibition. Below: DressInk organizers with Andreas Xenoulis of Corn Studio and fashion savant Lakis Gavalas.

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CHICAGO – In a creative tribute to Greece, the National Hellenic Museum team entertained at their annual Journey to the Greek Islands black tie gala at the modern chic Radisson Blu Aqua Hotel in May. Greeted at the entrance by two cheerful donkeys, guests took their seats at tables each named after a Greek Island while the night continued with fine dining, artistic performances, live music, and dancing. Emcee for the night, Chicago journalist Anna Davlantes opened the event, while NHM Chairman John P. Calamos took the stage for a word on the museum’s activities and future collaboration with Chicago’s historical Field Museum.

Below: Nikolas P. Tsakos accepts the AHI-Athens Hellenic Heritage Achievement and Public Service Award on behalf of his father, Captain Panagiotis N. Tsakos.

Guests enjoy traditional Greek dance performances by students of the Orpheus Dance Troupe.

Left: Dr. George Korkos, Dean Metropoulos & John P. Calamos Sr., Chairman of the NHM. Right: Richard Lariviere, President of The Field Museum.

ATHENS - The Washington D.C.-based American Hellenic Institute honored Captain Panagiotis N. Tsakos of Tsakos Shipping and Trading, with the AHI Hellenic Heritage Achievement Award at their 10th annual awards gala at the historical Grande Bretagne Hotel in Athens. “This year we were very pleased to honor Captain Tsakos, a visionary in Greek maritime tradition, someone world-renowned regarding what he has offered to commercial shipping,” AHI President Nick Larigakis said. Above: Dinner sponsor Spiros Kapotas with Ambassador David D. Pearce, Nick Larigakis, George Mermelas & AHI dinner attendees. Below: Lieutenant General Christos Manolas, Chief, Hellenic Army General Staff, Nick Larigakis & Vice Admiral Evangelos Apostolakis H.N., Chief, Hellenic Navy General Staff. portes magazine | summer 2014

Fulbright students arrive in New York on the Independence, 1955. Courtesy of Pipinopoulou-Panourgia Archives. portes magazine | summer 2014

FOUNDATION

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Education is a slow-moving but powerful force. It may not be fast enough or strong enough to save us from catastrophe, but it is the strongest force available. - J. William Fulbright

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Fulbright Foundation in Greece Decades of Educational Pioneering

{The U.S.-based Institute of International Education (IIE) recently launched the campaign “Generation Study Abroad,” aiming to double the number of U.S. students studying in another country over the next five years. As a hub for dozens of study abroad programs, Greece welcomes over 3,300 U.S. students every year, and is one of the top 10 academic destinations in Europe, according to the IIE. Portes Magazine examines the importance of educational exchange programs with Artemis Zenetou, Executive Director of Fulbright Foundation in Greece, highlighting the history of one of the longest running exchange programs between Greece and the U.S.} BY VASILIKI MITRAKOS

elebrating 66 years in existence this year, Fulbright Foundation in Greece is one of the largest and longest running educational exchange programs supported dually by the United States Government and the Hellenic Republic of Greece. The program awards over 50 educational grants annually for American and Greek citizens to pursue research or studies in each other’s country. Aside from providing a unique educational experience for individual grantees, Fulbright Foundation at large emphasizes the significance of cultural exchange and mutual understanding that arises from living and interacting with people in another country. “It is vital to be able to understand differences of another culture,” Zenetou says. “Even if you do not accept them, acknowledging them is very important. Ignorance is still very dangerous and studying abroad is another way we learn about the world.” From its inception in 1948, Fulbright Greece has awarded about 5,000 grants to U.S. and Greek citizens to study, lecture, and conduct research through an educational exchange program. Greece is actually the oldest continuously running Fulbright program established in Europe, and the second worldwide, Zenetou notes. portes magazine | summer 2014

“It is still a very dynamic program,” she says. “What was significant 66 years ago is also significant today, and this is exemplified through the Generation Study Abroad campaign whose main focus is to send more young U.S. students to study abroad and understand another culture.” With a deep-rooted history in promoting education, Fulbright Greece continues to serve the cultural exchange initiative through a variety of grants that support independent research, English language teaching, artist development, and educational training, among other activities. “To be awarded a Fulbright scholarship is to join an elite group of individuals who represent the best in their fields and who embody the spirit of education and global understanding,” David D. Pearce, U.S. Ambassador to Greece, says. “We all know that Greece is currently going through some very challenging economic times. It is precisely at times like these that we need to reaffirm our commitment to academic excellence and educational exchange.” As global priorities and international focus shift toward other countries and continents, however, funding for study grants in Greece, and Europe overall, remains a challenge, Zenetou explains. Fulbright Greece is actually one of the first Fulbright programs worldwide to start

raising funds to supplement awards in addition to government support received. And though relying on private sources as the program continues to expand has proven difficult during the crisis, there are many ways through which the program can be continuously supported, Zenetou notes. “There are several positive products as a result of Fulbright grants and it is important to acknowledge this, especially now,” Zenetou says. “Greece may be in a difficult position now, but so is the rest of the world, so the question is… ‘can we make a difference with small things?’ I absolutely think we can.” Some of the Foundation’s prominent past supporters include the John F. Costopoulos, George P. Livanos, Stavros Niarchos, and John S. Latsis foundations, the A .G. Spanos Companies, as well as various Greek and international corporations, educational associations, organizations, and generous individuals. Internationally, the Fulbright Scholarship Program has provided grants to over 325,000 scholars with parallel programs in more than 155 countries. Approximately 8,000 grants are awarded annually, while the programs or projects supported by Fulbright cover a range of academic fields including archeology, architecture, computer science, fine arts, music, economics, history, law, mathematics, political science, and the applied sciences.

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Educational exchanges can turn nations into people, contributing as no other form of communications can to the humanizing of international relations. - J. William Fulbright

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Senator J. William Fulbright featured on the cover of Time Magazine.

Top right: Fulbrighters arriving in New York on the Olympia, 1955. Courtesy of Lily Alivizatos Archives. Top left: At the University of Chicago Law School, 1954-1955. Courtesy of Phaedon Kozyris Archives. Bottom right: Edmund Keeley, author & Professor Emeritus from Princeton University, petting a baby goat given as a parting present from his students at the American Farm School in Thessaloniki, 1950. Keeley was a three-time Fulbright Scholar in 1949-50, 1953-54 & 1986-87. Courtesy of Edmund Keeley Archives.

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IN NUMBERS 1946 - Senator J. William Fulbright establishes the Fulbright Program of International Exchange.

Left: President Harry S. Truman signs the Fulbright Act into law, August 1, 1946. Looking on are Senator J. William Fulbright & State Department Chief of Cultural Affairs, William Benton. Courtesy of Harriet Fulbright Archives.

1948 - Fulbright Foundation in Greece is established.

Opposite page: Archived periodicals featuring the Fulbright Foundation in Greece. Grantees aboard a ship to the U.S. & researcher Lucy Weier-Krystallis. Courtesy of Pipinopoulou-Panourgia Archives & the National Archaeological Museum.

5,000+ Number of Fulbright Grants provided to Greeks and U.S. citizens to study in each other’s countries since 1948. 55 - Average number of grants provided for both U.S. and Greek grantees annually. 100+ Total awards granted to date specifically for artists to further develop their skills or explore new techniques. 180 - Teachers and educators trained through Fulbright’s Train the Trainers program, from an initial group of 10 Greek educators who visited the U.S. 17 - Fulbright artist alumni currently participating in the Art Supports Education Series with their limited edition pieces. 8,000 - Approximate number of Fulbright Grants awarded internationally every year, including both U.S. and foreign grant recipients. 325,000+ International Fulbright Alumni since the program began in 1946. 155+ Countries that participate annually in the educational exchange program. portes magazine | summer 2014

The Man Behind the Mission - J. William Fulbright (1905 -1995) With an emphasis on mutual understanding through educational exchange, U.S. Senator J. William Fulbright of Arkansas founded the Fulbright Program of International Exchange in 1946. The idea became a reality when the first programs were established in China in 1947 followed by programs in Burma, the Philippines, and Greece in 1948. As a Rhodes scholar at Oxford, Senator Fulbright understood the value of studying abroad and hoped to create a program that would simultaneously encourage students from all over the world to study in the U.S. while sending U.S. students to explore and better understand countries in Africa, Asia, Europe, the Western Hemisphere, and the Pacific. With additional legislative and monetary support from the U.S. Government, the fledgling program began to expand from four participant countries in 1948 to 28 by 1952. With the enactment of the Mutual Educational and Cultural Exchange Act of 1961, cosponsored by Congressman Wayne Hays of Ohio, the Fulbright Program began endorsing a cooperative approach for educational exchange, ultimately extending the geographic and academic scope of the program. As one of the first countries to have participated in the Fulbright Program, the history of Fulbright Greece is reflected in the close relations between Greece and the U.S. and Senator Fulbright’s own connection to Greece, which continued

throughout his lifetime. Since the commencement of the program, Senator Fulbright visited Greece three times, including a visit for the Foundation’s 10th and 30th anniversary celebrations, and once again in 1989. “The evident enthusiasm of the many people I met for the exchange program is eloquent testimony of the effectiveness of the Fulbright Program in Greece,” Senator Fulbright said during his trip in 1958. At the Foundation’s 30th anniversary ceremony, the University of Athens School of Law awarded Senator Fulbright an Honorary Doctorate Degree, the second bestowed upon an American after President Woodrow Wilson had been granted one in 1919. On April 20th, 1989 Senator Fulbright visited Greece again to accept the Athinai Prize from the Alexander S. Onassis Public Benefit Foundation for his work in founding the largest educational exchange program in the world. Fulbright alumnus and Prime Minister of Greece at the time Andreas Papandreou presented the senator with the Athinai Prize. After leaving the U.S. Senate to work as an attorney in Washington D.C., Fulbright continued, throughout his lifetime, to support the program that bears his name. Senator J. William Fulbright died on February 9th, 1995 at the age of 89. His sincere devotion to cultural and educational exchange is strongly reflected in the continuation and expansion of the Fulbright Program worldwide.

The Fulbright Grant Multiplier Effect

The Early Years of Fulbright Greece Following the devastating effects of World War II on Greece and the rest of Europe, the Fulbright program initially focused on sending American teachers and educators to Greece as ambassadors of the English language and American values. In the 1950s and 1960s, the majority of U.S. scholars were traveling across Greece to Thessaloniki, Patras, Kavala, Rhodes, Corfu, and Athens, to work at public schools and assist with teaching English. “Imagine back then that it was a time of reconstruction for the war-ravaged country, so it was important to gradually bring in experts to deal with social issues, language barriers, and nutritional issues, among other things, that were of vital importance to the country at the time,” Zenetou says. In addition to grants provided for crosscountry exchange, in its first three decades of existence, the Fulbright program provided Greeks with special grants to study at the four American schools in Greece, Zenetou says. Those four schools included the American

Farm School in Thessaloniki, Athens College, Anatolia College in Thessaloniki, and the American College of Greece. “The whole idea at that time was to be able to bring the country forward and expose Greeks to teaching methods and an educational environment that they couldn’t attain studying in the U.S. due to limited funding, so these four schools served as pillars of the American educational system,” Zenetou says. Providing such grants to students who did not have the financial means to attend American schools abroad created a healthy mix of social, economic, and cultural backgrounds while broadening Greek exposure to the American school system, Zenetou adds. As country conditions in Greece stabilized over the years, the focus of the Fulbright Foundation in Greece shifted toward supporting independent academic research and specialized enrichment programs for students, academics, and professionals alike.

Looking back at the early archives of Fulbright Greece, it becomes clear how influential the program has been, not only for individual grantees, but for both countries as well, given the success of the program’s alumni and the creation of a strong network of like-minded scholars. Some of the program’s first U.S. grant recipients never returned to Greece, eventually establishing lives and careers in America. “Realizing the success and evolution of the young students, we see a remarkable transition fostered by the initial grant,” Zenetou says. “In a way, it was like the American Dream come true because now they are in leading positions in various industries and in academia.” The large number of Greek Fulbright alumni having made significant strides in the U.S. academic world reflects the advantageous relationship between the U.S. and Greece. “In that sense, I wouldn’t call it ‘brain drain’ but ‘brain circulation’ because they have managed to become ambassadors of their country,” Zenetou asserts. Close to seven decades later, the activities of Fulbright Greece still hold true to the idea of fostering a multiplier effect. Aside from providing research and study grants, the Fulbright Foundation in Greece also seeks to maximize the influence each individual grantee can have on their community back home. One way Fulbright Greece accomplishes this is through a specialized grant program called Training the Trainers, which sends Greek educators abroad for a short-term period. Upon return, each grantee shares their experiences with others through workshops and training sessions. Fulbright Greece has, with an initial group of 10 program grantees, been able to utilize a multiplier effect and mentor a total of 180 educators throughout the country. “We are trying to maximize our resources since we have very limited funding, because we don’t always need funding to make things happen,” Zenetou says. “You need creative minds and you need to be resourceful and you need to communicate and avoid the phenomenon of reinventing the wheel in different parts of the country.” portes magazine | summer 2014

In Their Words Alumni Reflections

“This web of personal and intellectual collaborations has resulted in an accelerating exchange of visits, publications, and consultations between scholars in Greece and the United States,” Georgakas says to Fulbright Greece. “In short, the intellectual seeds planted in that first Fulbright have proven most fertile.” Granting young students the invaluable opportunity to experience a foreign country’s education system is recognized to have long lasting effects, often positively influencing students’ and researchers’ career paths.

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a different, better reality from the one I was familiar with.” For Fulbright alumna and photographer Kristina Williamson, the experience of spending a year on the Greek island of Kythera not only helped cultivate her own artistic expression as a photographer, but also allowed her to catalogue and preserve various aspects of the contemporary and traditional life of Kytherians as a complete foreigner in Greece. “This was a tremendous gift, particularly uncommon in the arts,” Williamson says. “It gave me the opportunity to begin to forge my own aesthetic, which became a keystone in the foundation of my current work. Seven years after leaving Greece, Williamson published a collection of the photographs taken during her time on the island in a book titled One Year on Kythera. “The story of the compassion and generosity of the Kytherians can be seen right there in the photographs, breaking through any potential language barriers many social sciences might confront. I think it is exchanges like this, which support the mission of the Fulbright program, proving it to be a successful and valuable endeavor beyond measure.” Williamson’s Fulbright experience is among many that demonstrate how studying or researching abroad impacts both the individual grantee and the community in which they live and research in. “She didn’t speak a word of Greek when she arrived, so in the beginning they were calling her ‘Amerikanaki’... but at the end of her stay, they were calling her ‘Christinaki,’” Zenetou recalls about Williamson’s experience in Greece.

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Around the world, Fulbright alumni form a global collective of distinguished men and women demonstrating leadership in a wide range of fields extending from arts and humanities to applied sciences. Notable alumni have continued on to become presidents, cabinet officials, world leaders, Nobel laureates, Pulitzer Prize winners, celebrated artists, actors, historians and business leaders. The impact of Fulbright Greece is evident in the work and long-term outcomes of alumni, many of whom later entered public service or specialized in an academic field and continue to exemplify the core values of the Fulbright Foundation. One such example is Senator John P. Sarbanes, a 1984 Fulbright scholar who researched law and political science in Greece, and was later elected to the United States House of Representatives. “In many ways, my experience as a Fulbright Scholar in Greece motivated me to seek public office,” Sarbanes says to Fulbright Greece. “So many of today’s international and domestic conflicts stem from cultural misunderstandings. In this globalized world, it is critical that we collaborate on discovering and promoting innovative solutions to problems that span geo-political borders.” As a two-time Fulbright Scholar, Professor Dan Georgakas recalls his experience researching and teaching in Thessaloniki once in 1963 and again in 2000. The author, scholar, and director of the Greek American Studies Project at the Center for Byzantine & Modern Greek Studies of Queens College New York suggests that the most important aspects of educational exchange are the bridges built through personal and professional connections.

This was a tremendous gift, particularly uncommon in the arts. - Kristina Williamson

Having received a grant to pursue graduate studies at the University of Chicago in 1988, Professor of Political Science at Yale University Stathis Kalyvas recalls most fondly, his eye-opening introduction to an entirely different educational system in the U.S. “While undergoing the Foundation’s rigorous selection process, I realized that a completely different logic was at play, one that stood in stark contrast to the depressing bureaucracy and opaque logic of the Greek educational system I had experienced up to then,” Kalyvas says to Fulbright Greece. “This was a true discovery for me and I credit the Fulbright Foundation for helping me realize, at a crucial time of my life, the existence of

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It’s like passing the baton... the artists have shown their support for the program. - Artemis Zenetou

Alumni Give Back

Art Supports Education Series

A sample of the works donated by Fulbright Artist Alumni. From top to bottom: Intergalactic Digs I & Intergalactic Digs II (2000-2011) by Eleni Mylonas, digital print on archival paper, mounted on aluminum. Dromeas (2008) by Costas Varotsos for the Fulbright Foundation’s 60th anniversary, silkscreen. Untitled (2006) by Dora Economou, mixed media on paper.

Finding creative and alternative ways to support the Fulbright Scholarship Program has been a driving force behind the continuous operation of the Fulbright Foundation in Greece. Launched in 2002, the Art Supports Education – Fulbright Alumni Art Series program is one such example of resourcefulness. Recognizing the importance of educational exchange, the art series is a collection of limited edition pieces donated by Fulbright artist alumni with the goal of raising funds for the Fulbright Scholarship Program, a gesture that reciprocates the support they had once received. With assistance from the Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs of the U.S. Department of State, the U.S. Embassy in Athens, and

in collaboration with the Benaki Museum, the program reflects the dually supportive relationship between art and education. The art series also reflects the importance of promoting intercultural communication worldwide through the Fulbright Artist Scholarship Program, which was launched in 1989. Fulbright Foundation Greece is one of the few programs to provide such grants specifically for Greek or American artists who wish to expand on their techniques or observe new trends in the field of art during the exchange. Multiple works from 17 Greek and American Fulbright artist alumni have been donated to the fundraising campaign. A complete catalogue of the art series can be found online at fulbright.gr. portes magazine | summer 2014

INTERVIEW WITH

Theodore Vokos

of the POSIDONIA

INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING EXHIBITION {In visiting the Posidonia International Shipping Exhibition for the first time this summer, we found it interesting to strike up a conversation about tankers and LNG carriers, shipyards, eco-design, new fuels, and maritime security with some of this year’s 1,800 plus participants. Open to the public, Posidonia week is a mix of a variety of business opportunities, educational seminars, and fun sports activities. We sat down for a talk with Posidonia Executive Director Theodore Vokos, who gave us a backstage glimpse at running Posidonia from start to finish.}

he idea for Posidonia blossomed in 1963 when Theo Vokos, grandfather of current Executive Director Theodore Vokos, envisioned hosting an internationalscale shipping exhibition in Greece. “It was an era where the Greek shipping community was much more introverted,” explains Vokos. “Ship owners weren’t really outgoing and they didn’t want to show their faces in public, so it took some convincing.” The Posidonia International Shipping Exhibition was officially launched as a modest biennial event in 1969, featuring exhibitors from some 15 to 20 nations. Fastforward 45 years to 2014 and that number has grown to 93 countries and over 1,843 exhibitors, attracting nearly 19,500 visitors this year. The most important factors to the event’s success are good partnerships, professionalism, and consistency, Vokos notes. It’s what keeps some exhibitors like the Japan Ship Exporters Association coming back every year, for the past 40 years.

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“We’ve teamed up with some very good exhibition and media groups around the world,” Vokos says. “Organizing Posidonia takes a lot of effort and professionalism and needs aspects of internationalism in everything we do…for example, everything is communicated in English and not in Greek, even though it’s a Greek company putting on the exhibit,” he adds. As for the process of preparing for participation in exhibitions like the Posidonia, companies plan well in advance. “Many of these multinational companies close their budgets a year or over a year in advance,” explains Vokos. “Many are very slow moving when it comes to applying and preparing for such an event, so it takes a long time to prepare,” he adds. In the history of Posidonia, organizers have faced a number of major challenges, one of them being the lack of adequate infrastructure, Vokos explains. The exhibition in the past took place at the ferry passenger terminal in Piraeus and then for

six years was held inside tents on the runway of the old airport at Ellinikon. “Exhibitors were used to events in Germany and Norway that had all the necessary infrastructure and services… air condition, walls…the basics,” Vokos says. “And then they were coming to Greece and would ask ‘How does this work? You’re putting me in a tent.’” Even so, the worldwide shipping community never lost interest in visiting the land of renowned shipping magnates. “The show worked well and they were used to the Greek uniqueness - that the Greeks will make it work anyway - but now we’ve matched and exceeded the standards abroad.” Reaching a milestone, Posidonia has since 2012 been held at the state of the art Athens Metropolitan Expo Center near the Eleftherios Venizelos Airport. With location figured out, another challenge organizers have faced in recent years is the country’s reputation. Negative

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have a $200,000 to $300,000 event budget inclusive of impressive exhibition booths (some resemble chic bars, cafés, and recreational areas) company representative transportation, external business dinners and meetings, reception hosting, and more. Overall, Posidonia contributes some €50 million to the Athens and Attica economies. Aside from the various company booths on display throughout the exhibition, Posidonia week includes conferences, seminars, workshops, forums and roundtable discussions with some of the industry’s top leaders and shipping magnates on the topics of marine environment intelligence, maritime communication and security, policy, and energy issues, among others. And for those more daring and sporty participants, there’s the Posidonia Cup Yacht Race at Faliron Bay, the official Golf Tournament at the Athens Golf Course, and the Shipsoccer Tournament at Karaiskakis Stadium.

...whatever is going on in Greece, we can still get business done. hustle, 2012 and 2014 were very successful years for Posidonia, says Vokos, who’s been part of the exhibition since 2003. And what goes into putting on such a large-scale event? Designing and creating the tailored company booths, for one, is an entire process in itself. Participation with a simple stand at Posidonia starts at $5,000, but as Vokos explains, some participants

Photo by Nick Alevromytis

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BUSINESS

experienced travelers and people who have been to Greece many times before and they know that whatever is going on in Greece, we can still get business done,” Vokos asserts. The exhibition’s recent relocation to the expo center offers state of the art infrastructure located near the new airport area, creating a sense of security and safety for participants. As such, despite all the

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publicity and international headlines highlighting riots, constant fear of bankruptcy, and an unwelcoming business environment didn’t help Posidonia. “All these issues made Posidonia a hard sell,” Vokos notes. “The product was good but the environment wasn’t appropriate, so you had some exhibitors who were afraid, and some embassies issuing warnings and directives stating that Greece was not a safe country to do business in.” Despite the heightened negative publicity post-crisis Greece has been subjected to, the Greek shipping industry continues to thrive, ranking first this year in terms of worldwide tonnage capacity. In fact, Greece holds some 16% of the world fleet and 46% of the total EU fleet in terms of tonnage. And while Greeks are known for their easygoing but at the same time stubborn mentality, they seem to prevail in tough times. “The positive thing for us is that we are dealing with the shipping industry, and the shipping industry has to do with

GREECE st in SHIPPING

worldwide

Vokos, said. “This is something we should be proud of and it has nothing BY ANTHE MITRAKOS to do with the state, it’s pure Greek entrepreneurship,” he added. Originally developed by Greek Celebrated since ancient times as natural- entrepreneurs through overseas companies, born seafarers, the Greeks today stand at the modern Greek maritime activity grew in helm of the modern shipping industry. popularity in Greece in the 1970s, and As over 90% of worldwide commercial reached its peak in 1979, preceding a large trade is transported by sea, Greeks lead shipping crisis. The Greek shipping industry the global shipping scene with ownership over the decades has managed to compete of some 52% of industry companies listed on a global scale, however, and despite on the NYSE and NASDAQ U.S. stock tough economic times, now represents 16% exchanges. Enjoying their reputation at the of worldwide cargo capacity, as well as one top, Greek ship owners control over 4,900 of the most important sectors of the Greek vessels today, according to London-based economy. Clarksons Shipping Intelligence Network, Indeed, the value of the Greek-controlled while in terms of deadweight (DWT) fleet ranks first worldwide at $101 billion, capacity, the Greek fleet ranks number one, accounting for over 15% of the global sailing ahead of giant industry players like merchant shipping fleet value of $660 billion, Japan and China. according to a January 2014 estimate by “Greece is just a small country on the map, London-based vesselsvalue.com. but we do have an industry in which we are The Greek fleet was in 2013 managed by the first, and not many countries can claim 690 companies, a decrease of roughly 4% the same,” Posidonia International Shipping from 718 companies in 2012, and almost Exhibition Executive Director Theodore 9.5% from 762 companies in 2011, according portes magazine | summer 2014

Photo by Peter Beentjes | marinetraffic.com

to a May 2013 study by U.S.-based Boston Consulting Group. The average age of the entire Greek fleet covering all sizes, types, and activities has seen a drop to 14.05 years in 2013 as compared with 14.7 in 2012 and 20.51 years a decade prior in 2003, according to the BCG study. Representing a significant part of the country’s economy, the Greek shipping cluster employed over 165,000 workers directly and indirectly, or 3.5% of the country’s employees in 2010, while the industry contributed an estimated €13.4 billion, or 6% of the country’s GDP the same year, and over 7% of the GDP in 2012. In fact, Greek shipping has contributed €136 billion to the Greek economy in the last decade, according to the BCG. Following a period of difficulty from 2009 onward, the top 30 Greek ship owners as of 2013 held 55% of the Greek fleet from just under 50% in 2009, strengthening their position in the industry, according to an October 2013 study by Athens-based Petrofin Research. The number of Greek

IN NUMBERS 12.4 Avg. age of global fleet

THE GREEK SHIPPING INDUSTRY ACCOUNTS FOR:

16.2% of global fleet in DWT**

165,000 + jobs

46.7% of the European fleet in GT

7% + of Greece’s GDP 690 Greek shipping companies 3,669 vessels (1,000 + GT*) 4,900 + vessels total 11.5 Avg. age of Greek flag fleet 9.9 Avg. age of Greek-owned fleet * Gross Tonnage ** Deadweight Tonnage

BUSINESS

vessels peaked at 4,763 in 2009, then saw a nearly 4% drop to 4,577 in 2012, and while the Greek fleet decreased again in size in 2013, tonnage increased by 3%, the study shows. Smaller companies continue to struggle as larger ones take the lead with rising consolidation. The total number of Greek companies fell to 690 in 2013, a 5% decrease compared with 729 a decade earlier, according to the Petrofin report. Still, the majority of companies, or 297 of them, own just one to two vessels, while 35, or 5% of Greek-owned companies, operate fleets of 25 plus ships. Recognized as big risk takers, Greek owners restrained themselves during the boom of the 2000s when Japan surged forward, but made a great comeback starting in 2010, coming out on top again in 2014. The top 10 ship-owning nations at the start of 2014 in terms of tonnage were (in order) Greece, Japan, China, Germany, South Korea, the U.S.A., Norway, Singapore, Italy, and Denmark, Clarksons data shows. Despite unfavorable market conditions and a ship finance crisis that have characterized the last couple years, overall confidence in the industry is on the rise. Greek ship owners in 2013 committed more than $13 billion to new shipbuilding projects, placing an order of some 275 new ships including bulk carriers, tankers, and container ships. Navios Maritime Holdings Chairman and CEO Angeliki Frangou was the most active buyer with an order of 25 vessels, according to a February 2014 release by London-based Eurofin Group. While dry bulk carriers constitute the most popular Greek shipping sector, Greek ship owners have in recent years set their eyes on LNG (liquefied natural gas) carriers, as a sharp increase of new orders was observed in 2011. More than 38 LNG carriers worth over $7 billion will be delivered to Greek ship owners by 2015, Vokos noted. Ship owners entering new sectors include big industry names such as Angelicoussis, Procopiou, Veniamis, Livanos, and Martinos. With new ship orders on the rise, studies suggest the Greek shipping industry can become a key driver of the Greek economy through direct and indirect business and job creation in the near future. “It is asserted that the Greek shipping industry maintains its leading position in the global ranking of shipping nations, despite the adverse conditions in the international shipping market,” President of the Union of Greek Shipowners Theodore Veniamis noted during the Posidonia 2014 press conference.

18.5% of the world bulk carriers fleet in DWT 23.3% of the world crude oil tankers fleet in DWT 13.8% of the world chemical & product tankers fleet in DWT $101 billion Value of Greekcontrolled shipping fleet ***

Source: Union of Greek Shipowners | Petrofin Research as of Oct. 2013 | *** vesselsvalue.com as of Jan. 2014

WORLDWIDE RANKINGS Greece Japan China Germany South Korea Singapore United States United Kingdom Norway Taiwan Province of China

*3,695 3,991 5,313 3,833 1,576 1,888 1,943 1,237 1,908 814

* 15.17 13.87 11.78 7.79 4.65 3.98 3.61 3.12 2.85 2.74

* Number of vessels of 1,000+ GT ranked by deadweight tonnage.

*Country’s DWT as percentage of world DWT.

Source: UNCTAD | Clarkson Research Services as of January 2013. portes magazine | summer 2014

Photo by Berber Hogendorp

portes magazine | summer 2014

COMMUNITY

THE

Cats of Greece

{Greek cats...There’s no Greek book, no post card set, no collection of summer in Greece photos, no seaside tavern dining experience complete without these curious felines. Indeed, the cats of Greece have come to represent one of the country’s most characteristic and classic symbols. But not all is rosy for these furry creatures. Sadly, stray animals are subject to many dangers and direct human abuse, as cases of deliberate animal poisoning or dumping into trash bins still occur throughout Greece. But good Samaritans and animal advocacy groups around the country are doing their share in making Greece a better place for cats and their communities by helping change minds and manners, one cat at a time. Trapping and spaying or neutering street cats is globally recognized as the most effective and most humane way to help minimize problems stemming from stray overpopulation. Portes Magazine takes you on a cat tour with the founders of Nine Lives Greece, also known as Οι Εφτάψυχες to find out more.} portes magazine | summer 2014

aunched in 2006 by a team of experienced animal welfare volunteers, Nine Lives Greece feeds and cares for some 400 stray Athenian cats daily around the Syntagma, Acropolis, and Omonia areas. They don’t own a shelter, but rather, these ladies take their work to the streets, monitoring stray cat colonies around the city. We met Nine Lives Greece founders Cordelia Madden-Kanellopoulou and Eleni Kefalopoulou at the Acropolis Metro station where we began our cat tour on a warm summer evening. Cordelia lugged around a cage and treats, while Eleni held bags of cat feed. Our group received curious stares from passersby as we trotted along to meet the cats. “We estimate there are about 10 cats on each block in Athens,” Cordelia said. At some point we reached a gated ancient ground near the Lysicrates monument in Plaka. There were no cats in plain sight, but as soon as Eleni let out a signature whistle and rustled the bags of food, a number of them sprouted out of their hiding places to meet, greet, grab a bite, and mingle. “This is Ginger,” Eleni said, pointing to a one-eyed cat. “He is very wild…you can’t touch him,” she explained. “That black one is Vasco Da Gama, he’s a house cat but he sometimes comes out to eat with the rest. He belongs to the archeologist who lives up the street.” As the cats lined up along the gate for dinner, we noticed the fixed stare of an unusually large-eyed feline. She was introduced to us as Charlie. We had never seen a cat with such dragon-like, yet welcoming eyes before. Charlie, who had just been released from the vet after surgery, ended up following us to the next feeding station along with some other loyal groupies. A steady stream of cats gathered again at the next stop, as Cordelia and Eleni carefully inspected each one for any problems. Before we could head over to the third location, a scrappy sheepdog caught eye of our group’s activity from a distance and came trotting toward us. With about a dozen cats at our feet we feared we were about to witness a fray. “Oh don’t worry,” Eleni exclaimed. “That’s Orestes! He’s harmless.” Orestes preceded his trusted owner Mr. Dimitris, who greeted us and right away mentioned what’s being “heard through the grapevine,” reporting on the local talk about the neighborhood’s cats.

“There are complaints that cats are going everywhere...in people’s pots and plants and gardens. We have to do something about this soon because it’s bothering the locals,” he said. “Let’s make a large sandbox area,” Eleni suggested quickly. “We will take care of it, as long as we can get some sand or designate a spot.” As they discussed the more delicate cat matters, we continued to watch the felines feast and took the chance to snap some great photos. We posed for a picture with Orestes too and continued on to more feeding points. Luckily, the cage Cordelia had with her was not needed that day, as none of the cats were injured or in need of capture for vet treatment this time around. In about an hour, our feeding tour commenced with none other than a chat about the organization’s mission over coffee under the Acropolis.

“

The ideal case scenario is for every cat to have a home...

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portes magazine | summer 2014

“We all decided we didn’t need more words, we needed more action,” Eleni explained while we waited for our drinks to arrive. (Yes, the cage accompanied us as we received more interested stares from tourists and locals alike.) By that point, however, we were glad to have witnessed a glimpse of the extraordinary voluntary work being done by Nine Lives Greece, and we kind of felt like cat stars. Working on a daily basis, Nine Lives Greece has helped neuter over 5,000 cats in the neighborhoods of Athens over the last eight years. “The reason for trap-neuter-release is to help the cat itself, as they will be healthier and have a less stressful and risk-filled life, as well of course as limiting the endless cycle of cat pregnancies, fighting, birth, and unnecessary deaths. It’s also good for the community,” Cordelia explained. To some, this practice unnecessarily interferes with nature, but there’s no threat that the cats of Greece will become extinct, the two explained. “Some people tell us to stop because they love cats and they think

what we’re doing is unnatural,” Cordelia noted. “It’s absurd because there is no way that we could neuter or spay all of the cats in the world, so cats as a species will not suddenly disappear,” she said. For these cat ladies, it’s a constant battle of perceived right and wrong, but one thing is for sure…they care about animals and they’ve made a noticeable positive impact in the community. “The ideal case scenario is for every cat to have a home,” Cordelia said. “We all have cats… everyone at Nine Lives has cats... we all have too many cats,” she added with a laugh. But sometimes, too much of a good thing can take a turn for the worse. Even in Greece, where cats roam freely, there have been many reported cases of animal hoarding, another issue the group deals with. In a recent case, for example, the Municipality of Athens discovered 40 cats hoarded in one apartment, and 17 in another. “Cat hoarding is very common unfortunately,” the two explained. “The municipality asked us to assist with removing and rehoming these cats, which was very difficult for us with our limited resources,” continued Eleni. “But we couldn’t refuse the cats the chance of escaping those conditions, and we’re so happy that they are now living a better life.” Surprisingly, the use of euthanasia for the purposes of animal population control is illegal in Greece, and deliberate animal poisoning and neglect is punishable by law. Greece is also one of the few places in the world to have banned the use of animals in circuses. “Greece has very, very good laws on animal welfare on paper, but they are not being well implemented,” Cordelia said. Luckily, Nine Lives Greece members are not alone in their mission to protect Greek cats. In fact, similar city and island specific organizations operate around the country to help minimize the threats to stray cat populations. “We believe in synergies and working with others because it is the only way we can make a big difference,” Eleni noted. “Animal lovers always think that we are too few so we do not have any power, but in fact we are many.” “If all of the animal welfare societies could only link up we could have a lot more influence with the authorities,” Cordelia said.

Speaking of synergies, Nine Lives Greece, in line with their mission, works with a number of local vets who provide services, operations, and treatment medicine at special prices. Without a central shelter, the organization relies heavily on in-kind support from local veterinarians and volunteers to foster the cats when necessary, the two explained. Despite some structural limitations, however, their work continues. Last year, Nine Lives Greece helped capture and neuter some 1,000 cats, and this year they expect the number to exceed 1,200. Looking back, these two, their group of volunteers, and other cat rescue associations throughout Greece, have all come a long way in recent years. “When I started working with a cat association 20 years ago, the situation for animals in Greece was terrible. There were many cases of poisoning and hurt strays…no one was organized and we didn’t have any funds,” Eleni explained. “There were days we needed to feed 200 cats and we would mix macaroni with cat food to fill them up.” But their hard work and determination has been paying off, and they don’t expect to stop anytime soon, they said. “After seeing what we could accomplish by being organized, I couldn’t stop and I wanted to continue this every day,” Eleni said. “When you see results you think to yourself my work has not gone lost, so it is worth all of our efforts.” From daily cat feeding tours, to rescues and rehoming, Nine Lives Greece voluntarily takes on a wide range of responsibilities for the sake of animal welfare. “You think about all of the cats you have helped and seen how they recover,” Cordelia said. “There are some cats I have rehomed in England and every time I go back, I visit the families with the cats. I have a cup of tea with the cats on my lap and they look gorgeous and happy,” she added. After spending nearly three hours with the founders of Nine Lives Greece, it became clear how independent animal activist groups play a huge role in animal welfare. The work of Nine Lives Greece demonstrates the large impact this and other grassroots organizations can have in their communities.

Check out our adorable selection of shots from the Cats of Greece photo contest To see more fan submissions isit portesmagazine.com

To go on your own cat tour or for more information about how you can join the movement in Greece, visit ninelivesgreece.com. portes magazine | summer 2014

portes magazine | summer 2014

Exploring Athens

8 Ancient Sites 1

BY KATHERINE POSEIDON

hen visiting Athens it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the variety of ancient sites to see - and visiting the ‘classics’ like the Parthenon, the Acropolis Museum, the Agora and the National Archaeological Museum can be exhausting (but worth it!). Even many Athenians don’t always look beyond those national treasures to some of the hidden gems that Ancient Athens has to offer.

Tower of the Winds

Located inside the Roman Agora, this monument is a major landmark of Athens. (‘Aiolou’ street, named after Aeolus, the Greek god of winds, actually leads toward the tower). It was originally built as a kind of water clock and sundial, but it’s better known (and named) for the carvings of the eight winds on each of its eight faces. In Christian times it became a bell tower, while the Ottomans used it as a tekke, a monastery for Sufi dervishes.

portes magazine | summer 2014

Roman Agora

The Roman Agora can be easy to miss if you have already seen the Agora (the ancient Greek, pre-Roman agora, that is), but this one is also worth the effort of navigating Plaka’s winding streets. On one end is a gate to ancient Athina, and a note letting us know that it was paid for by Julius Caesar and Augustus. This is a fairly large site that used to act as a market, with some beautiful surviving columns and even a public toilet for market-goers. Visit in the late afternoon to catch the Mediterranean sunlight reflect on the ancient marble.

Hadrian’s Library Go just beyond Monastiraki square to discover Hadrian’s Library and its grand colonnade. It was built (as the name suggests) by the Roman Emperor Hadrian in 132 B.C., although it was much more than a library. In the center was a public square surrounded by the library, reading rooms, and lecture halls, all built by Hadrian as a public space of enrichment for the Athenians.

Lysicrates Monument

Hadrian’s Arch Speaking of Hadrian, this arch was built not by him but to honor him, also in the second century B.C. It’s difficult to see if you’re speeding by on Amalias Avenue, which passes directly underneath it, but it’s worth stopping to take a closer look at its decoration. It was built along an ancient road leading straight from the Temple of Olympian Zeus (behind the arch) to the Lysicrates Monument.

Areopagus Hill

This monument is officially the ‘Choragic’ monument, referring to the man who paid for it to be built - Lysicrates the choregos, a wealthy citizen who acted as a patron of the arts. It was erected in the 4th century B.C. to honor one of the prizes he had sponsored. Settle into one of the cafes surrounding the monument for some people watching - this monument tends to blend into the background amid the hustle and bustle of Adrianou Street.

Most Athenians know this central landmark, and many visitors see it from the Acropolis and wonder ‘what’s that thing on top of that hill?’ but few people climb up to investigate up close. The marble fragment that is visible from a number of vantage points around Athens is the remainder of a monument to a Roman general Antiochus Philopappos, one of Athens’ benefactors in around 115 A.D. Although the hill is now known as Philopappou, after this monument, it is also called ‘Hill of the Muses’ and is now covered with footpaths and trees, from which the view of Athens is one of the best in the city.

Temple of Hephaestus

DESTINATIONS

Philopappou Monument

This beautifully preserved ancient temple is found inside the Ancient Agora, and gives its name to the surrounding area, Thissio. Although it was dedicated to Hephaestus, the god of craftsmanship and artisans, for much of its history it was thought to be the resting place of legendary hero Theseus (the one who killed the Minotaur). Around the year 700 A.D. it was converted into a Christian church dedicated to St. George, and by the 19th century it was used as a burial place for European Philhellenes.

This giant rocky hill next to the Acropolis is covered with tourists by day, taking in the view and the history. This was the place where the ancient Athenian judicial body, of the same name, gathered. The Areopagus Council functioned as the high Court of Appeal for criminal and civil cases, and was the earliest aristocratic council of ancient Athens. Today, the rock is overtaken by the teenagers of Athens at night - grab a cold Mythos from a kiosk (periptero) on your way up and join the crowd for a spectacular night time view of the city. portes magazine | summer 2014

Ingredients For chocolate mousse: 200g chocolate chips 350ml cream 2 tsp. orange liqueur or flavor of your choice 1 tsp. sweet honey For tarts:

sweet-making with

Ioanna Stamoulou of sweetly.gr

With their buttery flaky crust filled with fluffy chocolate mousse & topped with summer season fruits, these tarts will get everyone’s attention!

150g melted butter 75g castor sugar 300g all-purpose flour 1 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract 2 eggs For decorating: Various fruits like strawberries, cherries, apricots, kiwi, and a little confectioner’s sugar.

Instructions {A passionate writer, mother, and experienced cook, Ioanna Stamoulou loves to create sweets on a daily basis. Studying pastrymaking, she finds pleasure in writing on the topic both as a pupil and teacher while creating her own homemade recipes for tasty food and sweet delicacies. She has worked on a number of cookbooks including the official Olympic Games Cookbook and Simple, Greek, and with a Smile. She is the author of the book Flavor Magic {Γεύση Μαγεία}, has served as director of publishing for the magazine One Thousand and One Flavors, as editorial director of Olive Magazine, and is the face behind the food blog sweetly.gr.} portes magazine | summer 2014

Chocolate Mousse: Heat 150g of cream over medium heat in a saucepan. Pull from heat once cream comes to boiling point and pour over chocolate chips in a separate bowl. After half a minute, begin to stir with a spatula until the chocolate melts. Toward the end add the honey and liqueur and let the mixture cool slightly. Beat the rest of the cream until whipped in separate bowl, join both mixtures until fully mixed and place mousse into refrigerator. Tart Shells: Weigh your materials and place them all together (except the eggs) in the mixer. Mix the ingredients and when you get a crumbly texture, add eggs one by one. Stop the mixer and knead a bit with your hands, but just a little. Do not overknead.

When dough is soft and pliable, allow to rest for 5 minutes and then divide into 2 parts. Preheat oven to 355°F (180°C) and prepare a piece of parchment paper on your countertop. Open up the dough into a thin sheet with the help of a rolling pin. Cut out circles around 10 cm in diameter by pressing the top of a cup or cutter into the dough. Then place dough in tart pans or form tarts, taking care to press dough into indentations in the sides. Bake in preheated oven for 30 minutes until lightly browned. Remove from oven, let cool, and remove from pan. Fill the tarts with chocolate mousse and decorate with fruits of your choice. Sprinkle tarts with confectioner’s icing sugar (optional) and serve cold.

Tip Several hours before preparing the tart shells, start with the mousse so it is cold out of the refrigerator.

CUISINE CUISINE

chocolate mousse tarts BY IOANNA STAMOULOU

portes magazine | spring 2014 portes magazine | summer 2014

27 29

BY IOANNA STAMOULOU

The second largest of the Dodecanese islands in the southeast Aegean Sea, Karpathos is known for its exceptional natural beauty, and the local people’s spirited devotion to traditions, values, dialect, folklore, and customs. The genuine passion exuded by Karpathians can be attributed to the island’s wonderful attributes and relative distance from mainland Greece. Near or far, Karpathians keep this island dear in their hearts. Characterized by gorgeous beaches and well-kept rich traditions, the island of Karpathos is home to some 6,000 permanent inhabitants and hosts about 20,000 people daily during the summertime season. In Ancient and Medieval times, Karpathos was well-connected to Rhodes, the romantic island of knights and pirates. TheUnder velvetyRoman, Genoese, Venetian,texture and Ottoman of this control over the years, Karpathos recipe willtook havepart in the 1821 Greek Revolution and formally joined you addicted! Greece in 1948. portes magazine | summer 2014

“

Chocolate’s got huge fans who love it year-round!

“

chocolate ice cream parfait

Its biggest moment - summer - has come, and we celebrate it with ice cream & cool tarts along with fresh fruit.

Ingredients 3 egg yolks 200g sugar 50ml water 600ml cream 1 shot of cognac 200g melted chocolate in a bain marie 100g chopped chocolate

Instructions Place sugar and water in a saucepan over medium heat and stir with wire to dissolve. Let mixture reach boiling point then boil for another 2 minutes. In the meantime, blend egg whites with a mixer in a separate bowl at medium-high speed. When the meringue forms peaks, pull the ready syrup from the heat and pour it in the mixer with the meringue. Keep beating for a few minutes until the mix has cooled down and comes to a whipped cream-like texture. This may take 10 minutes. Melt chocolate in a bain marie and set aside when completely melted. Transfer the meringue mix to another bowl suitable for freezing. In another bowl, beat cream at high speed until whipped and add cognac toward the end. Mix the cream and melted chocolate into the whipped meringue and stir with a spatula until completely mixed. Add chopped chocolate and place the ice cream in the freezer until frozen well before serving.

Tip Let the frozen ice cream sit for 5 minutes before serving.

Sip

SIP & TASTE

Taste

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POTSIOS WINE A collection of fine wine made with grapes from private vineyards in Argos of Amfilochia. potsioswine.com

AGRIFARM Mediterranean delights including chickpeas, lentils, beans & more from Greece. agrifarm.gr portes magazine | summer 2014

let’s go ATA

Discovering City Street Art with Alternative Tours Athens BY DIMITRIS POLYMENOPOULOS

thens is a lot more than a ceremonial stroll up the Acropolis followed by a plate of lukewarm moussaka. It’s a lively melting pot of different cultures, a celebration of international creativity and ingenuity. Travelers wanting to discover Athens will have to look behind the city’s overplayed vacationist facade, and examine the Greek capital’s contemporary history, modern dynamics and - why not - it’s imperfections. The Alternative Tours of Athens do just that. They are a collective of artists, architects, and photographers who combine alternative thematic tours and workshops with grassroots efforts that aim to change the way Athens is perceived by locals and visitors alike. The thematic tours give travelers a better understanding of Athens’ architecture, street art, social movements and literature. At the same time, they offer fun cycling and nightlife tours that showcase the city’s lighter side. The Alternative Tours of Athens Street Art Tour takes you around the Metaxourgeio, Gazi, Exarcheia, and Psyrri areas that showcase the city’s greatest street art. First up is Exarcheia, the historic Athenian neighborhood of intellectuals and students alike. The area is peppered with politically motivated graffiti, stencils, and slogans. It features some of the best artwork by Wild Drawing, a Balinese artist who has been filling Athens with his amazing creations over the past eight years, and MaPet, a dentist who uses his skills to fabricate unique stencils. In Psyrri, you shouldn’t miss Sarri street where the most talented artists of Athens have left their mark. There, you’ll see works by Sonke, CacaoRocks, Callas, ScarrOne, Dimitris Dokos, Zap, and many others. Finally, in multicultural Metaxourgeio you’ll find some of the best street art in Athens, with beautiful works by Woozy, Achilles, Pol, b., and Ino. Plus, it’s an ideal area to get a little lost in, amidst the neoclassical houses and multitude of cafes and bars. portes magazine | summer 2014

DESTINATIONS portes magazine | summer 2014

Photos by Dimitris Polymenopoulos

portes magazine | summer 2014

ARTS & CULTURE

ARTIST PROFILE

Zoe Keramea

{Blending a mix of artistic elements and design, the work of Zoe Keramea takes on several forms ranging from intricate paper cutouts to interactive sculptures. Portes Magazine speaks with Zoe about her inspiration and melded styles.}

Q&A

When did you decide to pursue art? Was there a defining moment or memory in your life that really inspired you? I was making objects and “art” as long as I can remember. As a child I used to fill my pockets with useless discarded scrap that I often incorporated in my play with my friends or in drawings, collages, and constructions. For instance, a discarded watchband would become the belt of a collaged girl in a particularly well-received work when I was four years old. What is it about geometric shapes and malleable forms that you find interesting? The very contradiction between their rigid and unchanging form and the variability that I give them. The form is determined, the use to which I put them is decidedly not. The hard ambiguity of the di-pyramids contrasts with the fragile and often diaphanous materials they are made of: paper and thread. How would you describe your artistic style?

Explorations of different media.

enfolded

surfaces

Tell us more about your various paper sculptures, puzzles, and cutouts. Where does your inspiration come from when creating such interactive art pieces? In all my work I deal with the manipulation of surfaces, whether they are overlain, folded, enfolded into themselves, cut, or even tied in knots. The works sometimes transition between two and three dimensions. Often what seems flat is turned and twisted into space as in the flexible sculpture series Moths, twelve of which were shown at the Museum of Contemporary Art - Australia, during the 18th Biennale of Sydney, in 2012. Moths are emblems of transformation from the earthbound to the ethereal. The transformation in these works is also something literal as they pass from a two-dimensional to a three-dimensional existence. ...continued on page 42

Zoe Keramea was born and raised in Athens. She received her Meisterschueler Degree from the Universitaet der Kuenste in Berlin. In 1989 she received a Fulbright Grant to develop a new printmaking process at Bob Blackburn’s Printmaking Workshop in New York. This two-stage intaglio matrix printing process was later called “zoetype” by an art publisher in the U.S. Since then, she has participated in more then one hundred group shows in galleries and museums around the world and displayed her work in nineteen individual exhibitions. She has been teaching workshops in universities and museums and has published various artist’s books and games. She lives and works both in Athens and New York. portes magazine | summer 2014

Nine Blocks is a sculptural ensemble of nine cubes, the sides of which feature a painted black ribbon & can be stacked and realigned by the public. Displayed in 2008.

Keramea also incorporates her artwork into artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s books, print material, puzzles, or objects featured in boutique online stores & museum gift shops. To the right, a jigsaw puzzle featuring the Two Ribbons line drawing.

portes magazine | summer 2014

From the Moths series, 2009-2012. Hand-folded paper & thread. Moths are flexible modular sculptures named after the real moths that they faintly resemble.

portes magazine | summer 2014

Most traditional artists express their creativity through a canvas and paint. What draws you to use paper materials to create artwork?

A flat strip of paper is folded into a hexahedron and joined to hundreds of others with thread to become a “moth.” The “moth” itself can be folded inward as it has now become a flexible structure that can take many different shapes. The “moths” are named after real moths that they faintly resemble. They are as fragile as our world is. Also, I like to let the work play with the viewer’s perception as in paper cut-outs where the viewer should decipher a text in the pattern of the image. Frequently I invite the public to actually play with the work as with Nine Blocks, also shown at the 18th Biennale of Sydney. Nine Blocks (2008), is a sculptural ensemble consisting of nine building blocks, cubic like children’s blocks but many times the size. The public is invited to rearrange them in any constellation trying always to have a continuous line on all their visible surfaces. This way, one can discover numberless individual solutions. Sometimes the work becomes a game as in Two Ribbons (2007), a jigsaw puzzle, or Twisted (2009) a floor game where the public actually walks on the work, or even the Mandala Memory a digital game, for the iPhone and the iPad available at the iTunes App Store. Inspiration comes from the physical handling of my materials and long stretches of meditative swimming. I need full hands and an emptied head...

portes magazine | summer 2014

My explorations of printmaking led me outside of the confining frame that traditional painting and drawing and even printmaking itself are trapped within. Once you leave this theater stage you don’t go back. Many of your pieces have been incorporated in shows, exhibits, or in creative campaigns. Is there one particular project or exhibit that is most memorable for you? In 2005, I had a show at The Drawing Center in New York titled Zoe Keramea: Geometry of Paradox. A lot of different aspects of my work, in different media and techniques, were shown together by the curator Catherine de Zegher - at the time also director of The Drawing Center - who realized and made clear the fundamental unity of my approach. Also my interactive artist’s project Pin Cut Fold Blow Up consisting of games and puzzles was included in the catalogue and my limited edition board game Buttons, Ribbons and Threads was published by The Drawing Center on the occasion of the exhibition. For more information about the artist visit zoekeramea.com

Artist’s book Boxes, facsimile edition in reduced size, available at Printed Matter in New York. Photos courtesy of Zoe Keramea

Cut out, color & create your very own 4 Portes paper art designed by Zoe Keramea exclusively for Portes Magazine.

portes magazine | summer 2014

A selection of four Mandalas, from a collection of 108 separate paper cut-outs. portes magazine | summer 2014

gallery Portes

Our selection of original artwork

TV News Report - Antonis Tsakiris - Oil on Canvas Searching - Peny Manavi - Oil & Printing Ink on Canvas Blue Girl - Dimitris Taxis - Acrylic & Oil on Canvas Ellada - Inna Orlik - Acrylic on Canvas

portes magazine | summer 2014

ARTS & CULTURE portes magazine | summer 2014

SUMMER IN

Alonissos BY CHRISTINA LORIDAS

{Boats bobbingâ&#x20AC;Ścaressing the sea. The sky is a light shade of hazy pinks and oranges, timidly peaking behind the horizon of the quiet dusk, and the sea is calm. Covered in lush green nature embraced by azure waters, this place exudes tranquility. Welcome to breathtaking Alonissos. Part of the Northern Sporades island cluster thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home to Skiathos, Skopelos, Skiros and a number of other destinations in the southeast part of Thessaly, Alonissos was one of the first Aegean islands to be inhabited. It comes as no surprise since this idyllic island is remarkably beautiful.}

portes magazine | summer 2014

Called Ikos in ancient times, Alonissos is a flora rich and hilly island with a population of about 3,000 and dense pine forests comprising the southern area. Some 325 meters above sea level, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find Kalovoulos Mountain, where views of the sunset are truly remarkable. Inhabited since the Paleolithic period of prehistoric times, Alonissos was conquered and ruled over the years by the Roman, Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman empires. Playing a significant role in the Greek War of Independence, the island officially joined Greece in 1838.

portes magazine | summer 2014

DESTINATIONS

history

villages & ports Local hospitality, a serene setting, and traditionally colorful architecture amidst winding narrow streets and stairs characterize the picturesque villages of Alonissos. Indeed, the island’s Old Village, or Chora, is a spot you would not want to miss on your visit here. Welcoming to locals and tourists alike, this quaint village is surrounded by an amazing landscape. It’s home to a medieval castle and neat selection of small taverns and cafés. The detailed homes and traditional ways of the locals here will make you feel like you’re walking in a village straight out of a fairytale. The island’s harbor of Patitiri is beautiful yet nontraditional, as it was built in a hurry after the original was destroyed following a massive earthquake which hit the island in 1965. In ancient times, Patitiri was a bustling commercial port shipping wine, oil, and other products to areas around Greece. Here, patitiria, or wine presses were used to crush grapes for their natural juices. Containers engraved with the stamp Ikion were circulated around the ancient world, further illustrating the island’s popular wine trade. Surrounding island waters are the permanent home of a number of shipwrecks, suggesting Patiriti was truly a high-traffic area during its peak export era. Interestingly enough, the tiny island of Psathoura nearby has a sunken ancient city in its port! Located about 10km from Patitiri, the fishing village of Steni Vala is surrounded by thick olive groves and pine forests. From here you can enjoy a stunning panoramic view of the sea. The seaside villages of Kalamakia, Rousoum Gialos, and Votsi are also worth a peek.

In an idyllic village setting, the local hospitality, traditionally colorful architecture, blossoming flora, winding narrow streets & charisma of Alonissos island’s Chora will enchant you.

portes magazine | summer 2014

dine & dip see & do With such rich history dating back to ancient times, Alonissos is home to many historical and cultural sites including archeological locations, castles, and churches. Many of the island’s churches were destroyed in the area’s 1965 earthquake, but some still stand today. Dating back to the 17th century, the cliff-side churches of Christ, Agios Athanasios, Agios Giorgios, and the monastery of Kyra Panagia grant some of the island’s most incredible views. After exploring some of these spiritual spots, take a journey through time with a visit to the Historical and Folklore Museum of Alonissos where you’ll find a collection of artifacts from the ancient, medieval, pirate era, and modern times, characteristic of the long-established Alonissos island life. Traditional costumes, artillery, and old olive-oil making tools are some of the many things on display at the museum. Unique art lovers will also deeply enjoy the various featured sculptures and paintings created by locals.

Like most Greek islands, Alonissos’ taverns are brimming with fresh fish and local cuisine, however it is specifically the Alalunga tuna that fishermen bring in by the dozens. It can be prepared with linguine, sautéed with tomato, peppers, onions and grated cheese as an incredible dinner meal. Top it off with fresh grilled figs and honey, another island specialty, and grab your dancing shoes. Head to one of the various bars located throughout the island’s ports and villages like Patitiri, with its tiny bars overlooking the glimmering water, or Old Alonissos, where live Greek music echoing throughout the summer months makes this an unforgettable hot spot. An island offering a variety of experiences, Alonissos is a great destination for diving, sports, eco, religious, and medical tourism. Indeed, this island is full of adventure and thrilling outdoor activities. Canoeing and kayaking are popular outdoor choices, as are fishing, hiking, and trekking on the hilly terrain. After a full day of action, take a dip in the island’s cool waters. With a coastline spanning some 67km, the organized and more secluded waterfront options on Alonissos are numerous and varied. Sparkling sand, white pebbles, the shade of pine trees, caves, coves, and tiny seaside taverns make up these pristine shores, a true escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life away from the Greek islands. Chrysi Milia, Leftos Gialos, Agios Petros, Kokkinokastro, and Agios Demetrios are some of the island’s most popular beaches. If you’re looking for some isolated spots, then the various small beaches on the island’s northern coast (accessible by boat only) are a fine choice. The scenes of unspoiled beauty and irresistibly crystal clear waters of Alonissos will take your breath away. The waters around Alonissos and the surrounding islands of Peristera, Kyra Panagia, Gyaros, Psathoura, Piperi and Skantzoura are a very special place on the map, as they are home to the National Marine Park of Alonissos. A region of vast geographical diversity, Alonissos and these neighboring islands collectively form a unique ecosystem for the endangered Monachus monachus. Also known as the Mediterranean Monk Seal, this pinniped has made these uninhabited islands, and some 22 islets and rocks its dwelling spots, selecting Greek waters as its permanent home. Spanning nearly 2,200 kilometers, the park is the largest marine protected area in Europe and is the designated haven for the endangered Monachus monachus seal. Alonissos and its protected surrounding areas is also home to a few dolphin and whale species, over 80 bird species, and some 300 fish species. Some of these include Audouin’s Sea Gull, Red Coral, and Eleonora’s Falcon. portes magazine | summer 2014

Photos by of P. Dendrinos

portes magazine | summer 2014

ECOLOGY

Monk!

THE MEDITERRANEAN SEAL BY VASILIKI MITRAKOS

{The Hellenic Society for the Study and Protection of the Monk Seal (MOm) celebrates 25 years of protecting one of Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most precious indigenous animals: The Monachus monachus. Portes Magazine speaks with Vangelis Paravas, biologist and MOm director of conservation and policy about the challenges of preserving the critically endangered species.}

portes magazine | summer 2014

ith an estimated global population of just 600 individuals, the Mediterranean Monk Seal is one of the world’s most endangered seal species. Of the total population, roughly 300 individuals find shelter in the 6,000 kilometers of Greece’s coastline, among some 4,000 islands and islets. “Because the majority of the worldwide seal population resides in Greece, we have the largest responsibility for the conservation and preservation of this charismatic species on a global scale,” Paravas says. The Mediterranean Monk Seal, known by its scientific name as the Monachus monachus, belongs to the Phocidae (true seals) family of pinnipeds, which also include the Otariidae (fur seals and sea lions), and the Odobenidae (walruses). The monk seal can live between 30 and 40 years, and generally preys on octopus and a variety of fish. Adult male monk seals can reach 2.8m in length, and are generally larger and heavier than the females. Historically, the seal lived in abundance throughout the Mediterranean, along the coast of the Black Sea, and across the shores of North Africa to the Atlantic islands of Madeira, the Azores, and Cape Verde. After centuries of deliberate hunting, populations declined dramatically and eventually became extinct in the Black Sea and in the western Mediterranean region. Today, the seal colonies are limited to three key locations which include, aside from Greece, Cabo Blanco in Mauritania with an estimated population size of about 200, and the Madeira Archipelago in Portugal, which hosts about 35 to 40 individual seals. Recent sightings in Italy, Egypt, Libya, Lebanon, and Israel suggest the possibility for the regeneration of new populations, but limited monitoring and conservation actions make it difficult to be certain, Paravas explains. portes magazine | summer 2014

“It’s very difficult to work with such an endangered species that is actually on the brink of extinction,” Paravas says. “Unfortunately, we do not have all of the prerequisites and the necessary resources to accomplish all of our goals.” Since its inception in 1988, MOm has been operating as a non-profit organization conducting research, promoting social awareness, and supporting seal rescue and rehabilitation efforts. In its last three decades of existence, the organization has facilitated the expansion of previously limited scientific knowledge about the endangered species, and has also assisted in stabilizing the population of monk seals in Greece. MOm researchers have been able to tag and track several individual seals over the years, but the monk seal’s secretive lifestyle and natural behavior make it difficult for biologists to monitor the exact population in Greece. These seals spend roughly 90% of their lifetime in water, and the remaining 10% on land during the reproductive and breeding period. Even in the few weeks spent on land, the seals nowadays prefer to birth, lactate, and raise their pups in remote coastline caves inaccessible by humans. Greece’s natural coastline, with hundreds of isolated marine caves, provides a preferable habitat for the monk seal, one reason why a large portion of the global population is

found in Greece, Paravas says. This solitary behavior was not always present in the monk seal’s lifestyle, however. Ancient writers and historians like Homer and Aristotle describe scenes of monk seals colonizing open beaches. In fact, the ancient Greeks idolized the species thousands of years ago, as evidence shows these docile creatures were mentioned and depicted in ancient literary works, coins, and artifacts. The Monachus monachus was even regarded as a sacred beast protected by the gods Poseidon and Apollo because of the seal’s natural love for the sea and the sun. Increased hunting during the Roman times, and human interference over the centuries systematically eliminated large colonies that once populated the Mediterranean, forcing the monk seal to withdraw into isolated caves as a means of survival, Paravas explains. “Unfortunately, the monk seal has lost its original behavior of breeding on open beaches like other pinniped species around the world, so it is very rare to see it on land,” Paravas says. “This also makes it especially distinct from other seals.” A glimpse of the monk seal’s archaic behavior is still exhibited on the small island of Gyaros, in the northern Cyclades. With a population of 60 to 70 individuals, the small island is one of the most important areas for the species worldwide, Paravas notes.

“

Paravas explains. “This has not been the case, and as we can see, our efforts have made it possible for the monk seal population to continue to exist.” Over the years, MOm has also assisted in protecting seal pups that become separated from their mothers during their juvenile state. Each female gives birth to one pup every year and they lactate for up to five months, one of the longest care periods in the pinniped group of animals. During this time, the pup is especially vulnerable and separation from the mother seal can occur frequently as pups face rough seas once they leave the protection of the calm marine caves. With this fact in mind, MOm researchers are able to provide additional assistance in preserving the monk seal population. With help from the Hellenic Rescue and Information Network, nearly 20 individual

While the population of the Mediterranean monk seal is relatively stable in Greece, provided conservation efforts continue, the species still faces many human and environmental threats. The most immediate threat is deliberate killing and inadvertent entanglement in fishing gear. “[Deliberate killing] is a very sad threat which puts a lot of pressure on such an endangered species whose numbers are already low. Even one deliberate death has a large impact,” Paravas explains. Despite its protected status, the Mediterranean monk seal is sadly still considered a menace among some individuals in the fishing communities across Greece. The decrease of fish stock is also in direct competition with the existence of the monk seal, since both the fishermen and the seal prey on the same fish. There is also an issue with fisheries, where the Greek State has not secured a mitigation policy to reduce conflicts between these two populations. Recently, MOm and EU partners, with funding from the EU, completed a four-year study on recording and monitoring negative consequences for both the monk seals and the fisheries. While monk seals are capable of destroying fishery equipment, the seals face the biggest threat themselves when they end up entangled in nets or killed by irate fishermen. What MOm has proposed is compensation to fishermen for destroyed gear, and the establishment of more marine protected zones and fishery reserves, in addition to fishing bans near important marine areas. In addition to fisherman neglect, increased coastal development, climate change, pollution, and xenobiotics pose a major threat to the monk seals. Despite such challenges, however, MOm and other likeminded conservation societies continue to promote awareness and efforts to reduce threats for the endangered Monachus monachus and at the same time, a myriad of other sea-dwelling species. “The most important thing is to have an active society, not only in Greece but also abroad, because our cause is to sensitize people about the issues,” Paravas says. “We also need to pressure the authorities in order for protective policies to become a reality.”

We have the largest responsibility for the conservation and preservation of this charismatic species on a global scale.

“

Luckily, the monk seals are not isolated in one specific region in Greece, as sightings have been recorded throughout the Greek coastline, with the most frequent reports in the Northern Sporades, Northern Karpathos, Kimolos, and Polyaigos island complexes, as well as in Gyaros, Zakynthos and Kefalonia. The only areas researchers have not yet witnessed seal activity is in the closed Corinthian and the Ambracian gulfs. Following years of protection efforts, monk seals have recently made appearances in the port of Piraeus and the Argo-Saronic gulf as well. “This is actually a very good sign because efforts to clean up the Argo-Saronic Gulf have actually worked as it seems and the monk seal is having a comeback in the area,” Paravas says. These efforts include Greek State-run cleanup initiatives in the Port of Piraeus and other areas, as well as the establishment of a water and waste treatment facility on the nearby island of Psitaleia. Additionally, MOm is implementing a two-year project supported by the Stavros Niarchos Foundation and Thalassa Foundation, to map the monk seal’s terrestrial habitat in the gulf region, and conduct environmental awareness activities. Another one of MOm’s impactful achievements over the years has been assisting in the establishment of the country’s first protected marine park, specifically for the protection and observation of the monk seal. Established in 1992, the National Marine Park of Alonissos Northern Sporades covers 2,200 square kilometers of water and is recognized as one of the largest marine parks in all of Europe. Regulations heavily restrict fishing and the presence of boats around the uninhabited half of the island complex, reducing invasive human activity and offering a safe haven for the monk seals and other marine wildlife including dolphin, whale, and bird species. The island of Alonissos is located within the marine park and is also home to MOm’s Monk Seal Rehabilitation and Reintroduction Center. “In the 1980s prominent researchers had expected the monk seal to go extinct by the year 2000, like the Caribbean monk seal,”

pups found in distress situations have been admitted and rehabilitated at MOm’s center in Alonissos since the program first started. Using a specialized tagging system, MOm has been able to confirm the pups’ successful reintegration into the seal population once released, Paravas explains. With the exception of distressed pups, monk seals are very agile and strong swimmers. Even smaller seals have the ability to reach depths that exceed 160 meters, and can hold their breath up to 20 minutes. Paravas, who used to dive frequently with MOm’s research team, shares his perspective of this clever creature. “This is something that is really impressive,” he says. “And it’s fantastic to have the opportunity to see these animals in their natural habitat, most importantly in the water when they are diving…they are really clever animals. The experience to see one of these animals in the wild is really astonishing.” To find out more about MOm and ways to support the Mediterranean Monk Seal visit mom.gr.

portes magazine | summer 2014

{Charismatic. Energetic. Optimistic. Iliada Kothra is the editor of Living Postcards, or the New Face of Greece, as she likes to describe it. Accompanied by an agenda book penned with numerous meetings, she sat with the editors of Portes at a quaint café in the chic Athenian neighborhood of Kolonaki one summer afternoon to share what keeps her so busy.}

The NEW FACE of

Greece

reece as a country is a collection of wonderful places, people, ideas, and experiences, and Living Postcards, a global online platform, was created to highlight and share all of this with the world. Indeed, on Living Postcards one can discover how ‘food is pleasure’, ‘art is life,’ and ‘blue is awesome,’ among a selection of categories featuring a wide range of stories and blog posts. It all started on a trip to London when Iliada noticed an array of high-end Greek food products in exquisite delicatessen shops, she began to explain. “I found expensive Greek products with exceptional packaging, some of which even had a waiting list for purchase,” she said. “I noticed there was an general interest for Greek products, so upon my return I thought there should be a platform that shows not only Greek products, but also features the stories of artists, start-ups, small boutique hotels, bands, and fashion designers.” portes magazine | summer 2014

Six months later, the concept had a name. So we asked, why Living Postcards? “Because Greece is not a bunch of old postcards that have lost their color,” Iliada explained. “Greece has life. The postcards that one remembers have color. They have life. They have a future.” At that point, we all broke out laughing as we reminisced about the classic Greek postcards that still exist at traditional souvenir shops today… old sun-scorched and dusted cards depicting nude men on the beach, smiling toothless grandmothers, the iconic donkey, and the typical Greek island cat. Luckily, a lot has changed since those photos were taken in the 70s and 80s. For Iliada, the last two years have been filled with countless meetings, story posts, and endless feedback since the site launched in November of 2012. After working on everything on her own for about a year, Iliada has recently garnered a team of passionate contributors for a number of featured categories on living-postcards.com. Curiously, we asked how she manages the site, while also maintaining a day job. “I sleep, but I don’t waste time on things I used to waste time on,” she said. “If I go out it will be strictly for business. If I go to a show it will be one I am sponsoring or featuring. Or for example, I go to an event and speak with five people at once to economize on time,” she explained.

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and Wisconsin. Perhaps its because there are Greeks everywhere, who knows.” Russians on other hand search for food and boutique hotels, while in Germany they look for everything Greek related, she noted. Nonetheless, posting daily features on Living Postcards is only a small part of Iliada’s vision for Greece. Her obsession with fine goods, discovering new things, and hoping for change stems from her love for Athens, she said. “I am a cosmo girl as they say. I love this city. Athens is slowly becoming more beautiful. Three years ago it was not the case, it was more dangerous and in a bad condition. But people who live here don’t love it, so they don’t see the beauty in it. A lot of things need to change still.” Like what? Perhaps fixing the sidewalks as a start, we joked, but anything else? “Yes the side walks for sure, but also the everyday things,” she said. “Many times people carry themselves with a rude attitude on the street. If we don’t change our attitude nothing will change the city.” But, things start looking up when you listen to the stories of the younger generation and learn about their own vision for the future, Iliada commented. “When you meet people 20 or 25 years old that are living their dreams, they feel big and they dream big, it’s like you take in oxygen every day,” she said. “It’s a totally new way of thinking, and the young people are everything for me.” As Iliada shared some examples of new entrepreneurs building their own small businesses despite living the crisis, we realized that the young creative minds in Greece are finally becoming more forward thinking and business oriented. “Every day I get notices from new designers,” she said. “Just last week I was accused that I have too many designers on my site. I can’t help it, there are so many!”

PEOPLE

Though the daily needs of keeping up with her project are at times overwhelming, Iliada faces the challenges with confidence. “This is fun,” she explained. “Doing this is very lively and creative, and it’s given me a lot of interesting experiences. I have met 1,600 different people through this, and I meet new people doing great things every day.” Sometimes her interviews and business are conducted in unconventional ways. Meetings can take place at a gallery opening, or even at a live music performance. “It has to be done this way because there isn’t enough time,” she explained. “But it is also fun to meet with people like this. It’s not always about business.” For Iliada, launching Living Postcards has been more than an interesting journey. The most important experience in doing so has been “only one,” she said. “The discovery that I can do a lot of things in my life.” Now a go-to platform for all things Greek, Iliada receives attention on a daily basis. New products are popping up rapidly and every day there is a rush of emails, phone calls, and products at her door, from people who want to be heard and acknowledged. The newfound fascination with hand-made or organic goods reflecting the quality Greece has to offer is endless. Still, Iliada is restrictive on what she features. “I am very very very selective now, because I always want to recommend the best,” she said. “And they must have passion. That’s one of my criteria for selection.” Viewers from around the world are also selective about what attracts them to Living Postcards. “The site is most popular in America, and they look at the fashion,” she explained. “I have a lot of people from New York and California, which makes sense. What I don’t understand are the views from remote states like Ohio, Nebraska,

Greece has life. The postcards that one remembers have color. They have life. They have a future.

To catch a glimpse of Iliada’s personal favorites, check out living-postcards.com. portes magazine | summer 2014

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V I T R I N A ATHENART

THE GREEK BAG

Handmade Silver Earrings cforcrafts.com

Silky Polyester Blend Bag thegreekbag.wordpress.com

GREGIO Evil Eye Bracelet cforcrafts.com

KARIAN JEWELRY Poppy Colorblock Bangle karianjewelry.com

WHITE TALES Natural Cotton Shoulder Bag whitetales.gr

GREGIO Gold Mati Ring cforcrafts.com

portes magazine | summer 2014

DEEP SHALLOW EXPOSITION Sunglasses Handmade in Athens deepshallowexposition.com

*Photos from designer websites.

FANOURAKIS Hand Painted Gold Ring fanourakis.gr

the brand that

FASHION

loves Greece {Simple. Chic. Made in Greece. 100%. Portes Magazine speaks with George Hatzizahariou, the designer behind LoveGreece - The Souvenir Brand.} one that could fabricate LoveGreece products, Hatzizahariou notes. Having spent about a year researching the Greek cotton industry and seeking out the last remaining factories willing to produce the t-shirt, Hatzizahariou saw an opportunity to create a product truly “made in Greece” by selecting fabrics and material woven in the country from the finest Greek cotton. “LoveGreece is a premium product that is of higher quality and more expensive, not for the reason of making larger profits, but because in this category of souvenirs there should be a product that advertises Greece for its quality,” Hatzizahariou says. “This has been successful to a degree, and everyone who has purchased the t-shirts are amazed by the feel.” The t-shirts are indeed exceptionally soft, and cotton used for each of them is planted in Thessaly, processed in Macedonia, and Thrace, and later in Attica during the final stages of production, Hatzizahariou tells us. Since launching in 2013, the LoveGreece brand has expanded its presence in the online market and in about 30 boutique stores across the country, including hotels and premium souvenir shops in Athens, Thessaloniki, Mykonos, Santorini, Crete, Milos, and Chios, among other locations. Beyond the iconic t-shirt, LoveGreece also features denim tote bags, panel hats, and stationery. Actively supporting the Greek agriculture industry and setting higher standards in the souvenir world, Hatzizahariou’s dream is to take his love brand global.

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I didn’t want it to be simply a logo on a t-shirt... I wanted it to be like a symbol of Greece when someone wears it.

“

campaign that aims to spread the love for Greece around the world, the LoveGreece label represents more than simple and contemporary apparel. Designed and made from 100% cotton grown in Greece, the LoveGreece t-shirt sets a new standard for collectable Greek souvenirs. For founder George Hatzizahariou, creating a quality Greek-made brand with an alternative twist that’s authentically Greek in so many ways was key to his mission. “The idea was to start a trend where the products or clothing items that write ‘Greece’ on them should be from Greekproduced cotton,” he says. “I didn’t want it to be simply a logo on a t-shirt…I wanted it to be like a symbol of Greece when someone wears it.” With a background in brand design and marketing, Hatzizahariou oversees every aspect of production, from sourcing the cotton and selecting the fabric, to developing the unique packaging and display style that characterizes LoveGreece. “I wanted to create something that reminds people of Greece but in a minimalist way,” he says. “I didn’t want to blend the traditional imagery, shapes, or designs representative of Greece.” Finding cotton in Greece did not prove very difficult since the country produces a lot of it. In fact, Greece is the tenth largest producer of cotton worldwide, according to 2014 data by New York-based Statista. As most cotton is immediately shipped overseas and only a small number of clothing factories remain in Greece, the challenge was to find

portes magazine | summer 2014

introducing

e’s n i z a g Ma s e t r o P “From Greece, with LO VE” Collectable Post Card Set

get them at portesmagazine.com portes magazine | summer 2014

That

OUR PICKS

This

Our selection of books, gadgets, things & more!

COOL SOAP Discover a new kind of clean. Natural Greek olive oil soap made with respect to nature, people & animals. coolgreeksoap.com

PLOOS DESIGN Fine porcelain â&#x20AC;&#x153;portaâ&#x20AC;? mug with a modern hand-drawn sketch depicting the Greek spirit. ploosdesign.com

MOm Mediterranean Monk Seal pup! Specially made gift exclusively supporting MOm. Made with organic materials. mom.gr

MIONIDO A unique gift to swaddle & hold newborn babies. Handmade with 100% cotton materials. cforcrafts.com

ONE YEAR ON KYTHERA CRAFTAHOLIC Ideal for home decorating, these handmade pillows are bound to brighten up any room. cforcrafts.com

A contemporary photographic documentary of the Greek island of Kythera, its inhabitants & its culture by American photographer Kristina Williamson. oneyearonkythera.com portes magazine | summer 2014

Shades of Greece. portes magazine | summer 2014

M A G A Z I N E in collaboration with:

Hellenic Heartbeat