Portes Magazine | V 2014

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{Made in Greece} ARISTON FOUNDATION publisher ANTHE & VASILIKI MITRAKOS executive editors ANDRONIKI PAPADOPOULOS managing editor FOUR DOORS MEDIA design & layout CONTRIBUTORS Eleni Georgiou Georgios Glinos Christina Loridas Demetris Pogkas Katherine Poseidon Elena Tzavaras P OR TE SM AG A ZI NE .CO M The Fine Print Portes Magazine is published by Ariston Foundation, a nonprofit organization. No part of this publication may be reprinted or reproduced without prior written consent of the editor. The Portes Magazine logo is a design and registered trademark of Ariston Foundation. To contact Ariston Foundation, e-mail: contact@aristonfoundation.org. To contact Portes Magazine for ad placement or for other inquiries, e-mail: info@ portesmagazine.com. Or write to us at Ariston Foundation/ Portes Magazine P.O. Box 46064, Chicago, Illinois 60646.

from the editors Welcome to the fifth edition of Portes Magazine. In compiling this issue, we have explored new concepts, tastes, styles, and visions that continue to challenge the norm in Greece.

Delving into the Greek-inspired world of design, we spoke with the founding members of award-winning design and communications firm Beetroot, which recently brought their world renowned Greek Monsters Exhibit to our hometown of Chicago. We learned from them how good design should not only entail a strong aesthetic composition, but should also effectively communicate a convincing message.

Following up on our previous dedication to startups and incubators in Greece, this time around we inverted our focus, profiling several U.S.-based companies founded by Greeks.

And for those looking to launch a business in Greece, they might find it useful to understand the factors that shape performance among new ventures, as analyzed by ThinkBiz, a student-run entrepreneurial group in Athens whose study on Greek startups we selected to showcase in this issue.

And while the startup world of Greece is constantly evolving with a plethora of new initiatives, business ideas, and a sense of hope among entrepreneurial youth, structural challenges still exist. Sitting down with Elpis Philanthropy Advisor’s CEO Epaminondas Farmakis, we discussed the state of volunteerism in Greece and the hindered development of non-profits caused by unresolved governance issues. Yet despite the difficulties, there appears to be some light at the end of the tunnel. A study published by the Human Grid - a spin off project of TEDxAthens 2013 - demonstrates a 44% increase in volunteerism between 2010 and 2012. Other indicators show that more and more people are willing to volunteer their time for socially conscious activities that promote a newfound sense of community in Greece.

Finally, on a lighter note, in our incessant search for new inspiration and people with talent and dedication, we came across another fantastic cooking blog. Magda, the inspiration behind My Little Expat Kitchen, shares some unique personal creations with us in this issue.

And contributing yet again for those sweet enthusiasts is Ioanna Stamoulou of Sweetly.gr, with her deliciously handmade chocolate fudge squares. These are some tasty creations we recommend you try at home yourself!

So what’s the common thread here? Well, whether it’s conceiving a novel communications campaign, advising the next generation of non-profits, or cooking up a new dish, the people behind these activities devote their respective talents to achieving excellence in their work. As Farmakis reminds us, pursuing excellence requires a strong sense of responsibility even when it means sacrificing time and overcoming barriers to reach your goal.

With that said, we hope you enjoy this selection of stories whose focus sheds a bit of light on how things get done, and what inspires those behind bright ideas that mold new perceptions.

Vasiliki & Anthe Mitrakos Portes Magazine Editors portes magazine | fall 2014

contributors

Eleni Georgiou is originally from Canada, and has been living in Greece for more than a decade.

She is a copy editor turned aspiring entrepreneur. Her many talents include website administration, personal training, and PR. She is currently a Managing Partner of XpatAthens.com and keeps busy working on a new startup. When she’s not rushing to her next meeting, she enjoys reading, working out, and spending time with her kids.

Georgios Glinos majored in physics in Ioannina, and received his MSc in telecommunications in Manchester, UK. After working in Ireland for a few years, he returned to Greece to work on the Athens 2004 Olympics, had a daughter, and settled down. In 2010, he published his first book “Around the Mediterranean on Two Wheels.” He’s currently working on a sequel titled “Balkan Mediterranean Gastro Tour” and a Greek family drama titled “Οικογένεια - Παθογένεια.” His newest venture is Food Truck.

Christina Loridas has spent multiple summers in our beautiful Ελλάδα studying, sitting around a full dinner table with κρασί and laughter, and cramming her notebooks full of words and poems on ferry rides across the Aegean. Writing is her passion, and Greece is her inspiration. Gentle winds, blue waters, and strums of the bouzouki have captivated her since childhood. She graduated from Suffolk University in Communication and Print Journalism, and has worked at Ionian Village.

Demetrios Pogkas is the Startups and Entrepreneurship Editor at EMEA.gr and Startupper.gr. With a background in communications and mass media, in his mid-20s Demetrios is a senior editor at Delta Press, the media company behind EMEA.gr, one of the most wellrespected business news portals of Greece, as well as Startupper.gr, the first publication on tech entrepreneurship in Greece. He covers extensively the startup, entrepreneurship, venture capital, and private equity markets of Greece.

Katherine Poseidon is a first-generation Greek-American currently living in Athens. After finishing high school in Ohio, she studied History and Middle Eastern Studies at Trinity College, Cambridge. Upon graduation, she moved to Athens to work as a Teaching Fellow at Athens College. Now pursuing a Masters at the University of Athens, she spends her free time traveling, writing, photographing, and exploring hidden corners of old Athens.

Elena Tzavara has been living and working in Athens for 10 years. Originally from Toronto, Canada, she always felt Greece was home and decided to make it her home following university in 2004. An entrepreneur at heart, after a career in luxury travel, she’s now running Athens’ largest expat community website XpatAthens.com with Eleni Georgiou.

Special thanks to Ioanna Stamoulou of Sweetly & Magda of My Little Expat Kitchen.

portes magazine | fall 2014

on the inside ///

EVENTS & CELEBRATIONS Notable Global Greek Events ................................................................... 02

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FOUNDATION Interview with Elpis Philanthropy Advisors CEO ...................................... 06

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BUSINESS Greek Entrepreneurs in the U.S. ..................................................................10 ThinkBiz Study: Startup Performance Factors ...........................................14

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SPECIAL FEATURE Revisiting the Cyprus Invasion: 40 Years Later ........................................16

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ARTS & CULTURE Q&A with Beetroot Design Team .............................................................. 20 Gallery Portes ........................................................................................... 24

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DESTINATIONS Exploring Athens: 5 Ottoman Monuments ................................................ 26 The Island of Naxos .................................................................................. 38

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CUISINE Cooking with Magda .................................................................................. 28 Sweet-making with Ioanna Stamoulou ....................................................... 32

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ECOLOGY The Red Deer of Greece ........................................................................... 34

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FASHION Vitrina ....................................................................................................... 48

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OUR PICKS Sip & Taste ................................................................................................ 31

portes magazine | fall 2014

take a piece of Greece with you anywhere you go...

Chic. Greek. Unique.

www.portesmagazine.com portes magazine | fall 2014 spring 2014

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CHICAGO - Over a dozen of the city’s finest chefs greeted some 400 guests for the National Hellenic Museum’s celebration of gastronomy at the 7th annual Kouzina food and wine fundraiser in October. Clanking stainless steel warmers, unique floral arrangements, bright lighting, chic black tablecloths, shiny drink glasses, and suited chefs serving delectable mini dishes amidst the modern-designed Greek Monsters Exhibit set a rich tone for the evening.

“Kouzina has definitely evolved into an event that goes beyond the scope of the Greek community, said celebrated cook and author Diane Kochilas. “Just by looking at the range of restaurants represented here... it’s become a Chicago event,” she added.

From chefs who love to cook at home, to those that serve the taste buds of hundreds daily, food is what you put into it, and making a good dish takes effort and passion. “It’s the satisfaction of making something from scratch, but it’s also the satisfaction of sharing that is a big part of cooking,” Kochilas said.

WASHINGTON D.C. - The National Hellenic Student Association (NHSA) fall Convention took place in D.C. this November, in collaboration with the Pan-Hellenism Weekend hosted by the DCGreeks. Over 65 university students from across the U.S. came together to discuss the preservation of Greek culture and the future of Hellenic youth.

“Overall, I believe the conference was very successful. The convention theme brought light to a problem being faced by the diaspora. It is at this critical time that the youth united to promote and preserve the Hellenic culture,” said NHSA President Konstantine Ouranitsas.

Together with the Pan-Hellenism Weekend activities, over 400 people from 24 different states gathered in D.C. to mingle, network, and enjoy live Greek music. This year, a portion of proceeds from the Pan-Hellenism Weekend also benefited various GreekAmerican non-profits. portes magazine | fall 2014

EVENTS & CELEBRATIONS

ATHENS - A week-long art exhibition featuring all facets of creativity - from photography to painting, textiles, sculptures, fashion, books and more - Art Links in October brought together the city’s creative community for an artistic affair. Fine artists, sculptors, authors, comedians, and musicians from more than 10 countries were featured in a gallery and live performances at The HUB Events in Kato Petralona, sharing their ideas and creative energies through a variety of media. A silent auction from exhibiting artists benefited Make-A-Wish Greece.

ATHENS - Hosted by the Global Volunteers (GloVo), the 2nd annual GloVo Conference brought together Greek youth interested in making a difference in society. Held at the Impact HUB Athens in Monastiraki in October, the three-day event included hands-on volunteering, speeches, and workshops aimed at promoting social welfare and youth involvement. GloVo.Con’s mission is to educate and help young people develop the skills and confidence needed to make real and meaningful impact, increase their engagement in positive activities and social actions, and demonstrate how volunteerism can benefit both the society and the individual.

“Volunteerism is one of the few things in today’s society that can achieve actual change. It helps to spread the importance of giving and helping others without expecting anything in return,” said GloVo Founder and CEO Kostapanos Miliaresis. “If more people knew how liberating it feels to offer to those who need assistance, then our world would be a much better place to live in,” he added. portes magazine | fall 2014

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ATHENS - Creativity and business were the center of discussion at the 1st Creative Economy Conference hosted by philanthropy management firm Elpis at the Acropolis Museum in October.

The event launched the Greek translation of Felipe Buitrago Restrepo and Iván Duque’s, The Orange Economy – An Infinite Opportunity, an important study on Creative Economy in the Caribbean and Latin America published in 2013 by the InterAmerican Development Bank.

More than 20 internationally acclaimed experts in the Creative Economy field participated in the event through presentations, interviews, roundtable discussions, and audience Q & As. They included Lord Chris Smith, President of the U.K. Environment Agency and a visiting professor in culture and the creative industries at the University of the Arts London, Dr. Andrew Senior, a specialist in matters of creative entrepreneurship and intellectual property, and Professor Stuart MacDonald, a design and innovation specialist.

“In order for the Creative Economy to develop, it needs a favorable environment. This is the reason Elpis is connected to this event in particular, as well as with the Creative Economy in general,” said Elpis President and CEO Epaminondas Farmakis.

ATHENS - Exploring the meaning of “Conclusions,” TEDxAthens 2014 brought together poets, entertainers, businesspeople, and other industry experts for a day and night of talks, performances, socializing, food, and drinks. Held at the Onassis Cultural Centre in November, this annual event has become one of the most anticipated of the year.

“We were thrilled to see that our community warmly welcomed inspiring, yet pragmatic talks around a wide diversity of topics this year. From a content point of view, we strongly believe that we had the most mature and realistic talks and conversations so far,” said TEDxAthens Founder and Curator Dimitris Kalavros-Gousiou.

A world-class conference about innovation, creativity, and ideas, TEDxAthens is the first TEDx event in Greece, and one of the first worldwide.

Leveraging the TED experience on a regional level, TEDxAthens unites innovators, thinkers, inspirational speakers, shakers, makers and breakers. portes magazine | fall 2014

NEW YORK - The Hellenic Initiative’s 2nd Annual Banquet in October raised nearly $2.3 million in support of entrepreneurship in Greece, making it one of the most successful fundraising initiatives ever held within the Greek-American community. With a focus on investing in the future of Greece, the banquet was attended by several Greek government representatives, including Notis Mitarachi, Vice Minister for Development and Competitiveness, Christos Panagopoulos, Greek Ambassador to the United States, as well as prominent members of the GreekAmerican community, including author and editor Arianna Huffington, who served as and Master of Ceremonies, as well as Ambassador John Negroponte.

The event honored three outstanding individuals for their lifetime of entrepreneurship and philanthropy: George D. Behrakis, Founder of the Behrakis Foundation; John Pappajohn, Founder of Pappajohn Capital Resources; and Peter G. Peterson, Founder and Chairman of the Peter G. Peterson Foundation.

The Hellenic Initiative (THI) is a global, nonprofit and non-governmental institution whose vision is to mobilize the Greek diaspora and the philhellene community to invest in the future of Greece through programs focused on crisis relief, entrepreneurship, and economic development.

ATHENS - Kicking off Global Entrepreneurship Week, the Industry Disruptors-Game Changers hosted their 2nd annual Startup Disrupt Scaleup event at the Megaron Athens International Conference Center in November.

Two days filled with talks, performances, live startup competitions, workshops and networking, the event featured guest speakers including Ambassador of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Greece Jan Versteeg, Wikipedia Co-founder Larry Sanger, and Editor in Chief of Entrepreneur Magazine Amy Cosper, among others.

The non-profit organization was founded to promote entrepreneurship in Greece, Southeast Europe, and the Eastern Mediterranean regions. Focused on industry sectors offering a competitive advantage through the exploitation of the region’s unique entrepreneurial potential, the ID-GC’s mission is to create an entrepreneurial ecosystem that will serve as a global beacon for innovative business by combining talent, mentoring, education, networking, and funding. portes magazine | fall 2014

05

INTERVIEW WITH

Epaminondas Farmakis

of Elpis Philanthropy Advisors

BY ANTHE MITRAKOS

{ With ancient origins, the notion of elpis – or hope – is deeply rooted in the Greek ethos and philosophy. But where does Greece stand today in terms of philanthropy? Steep budget cuts, soaring youth unemployment, and a culture that has not yet embraced volunteerism, have rendered philanthropic causes another victim of the Greek crisis.}

T

he scramble of some 30,000 Greek non-profits to grab a share of the dwindling in size pie of private, state, and European Union funds, coupled with a widespread mistrust in non-governmental organizations (NGOs) has made the joy of giving somewhat cumbersome. Faced with limited resources and numerous examples of mismanaged non-profits, many organizations and individuals are making greater efforts to channel funds toward more appropriate and legitimate causes. Nowadays, large and small donors alike are seeking to better manage their grant-making in hopes it will land in the right hands for the right purpose.

Founded in 2012 with the mission to do just that, Athens-based Elpis Philanthropy Advisors was formed to bridge the gap between investors and philanthropic efforts, emphasizing transparency and accountability.

Elpis assists potential donors – foundations, companies, or individuals – in finding a targeted philanthropic cause, helping them realize, step by step, the tangible results their aid has brought others.

Matching donors with non-profits is a multiple step process accompanied by a series of evaluations, explains Elpis Founder and CEO Epaminondas Farmakis. His team portes magazine | fall 2014

first assesses donors’ goals and sponsorship expectations, and then declares open competitions welcoming project proposals from non-profits and NGOs active in each donor’s fields of interest. The top proposals are presented to donors who select the causes they prefer to support, and once the collaboration begins, Elpis assists in ensuring both parties fulfill the agreed-upon terms and conditions.

Farmakis, concurrently director of the European Economic Area (EEA) Grants NGO Program in Greece - a €7.3 million Norway fund - has over two decades of grantmaking and philanthropy management experience behind him. Together with his team, he has administered over €1.1 billion in grants, and has worked with over 1,150 NGOs supporting some 2,500 non-profit in nature projects, globally.

Bringing his knowledge and expertise to Greece, Farmakis hopes to build on the momentum of establishing proper philanthropy management strategies across the country. To date, Elpis has facilitated in supporting a range of activities, from small initiatives like teaching school children the values of volunteerism, to larger operations like orchestrating funds to help provide daily meals for 5,000 impoverished households.

Examples of Greece-based non-profits Elpis helps support include Desmos, which offers food, clothing, books, and other basic necessities to at-risk populations, and Prolepsis, an institute of preventative medicine, environmental, and occupational health.

PHILANTHROPY VS CRISIS Philanthropic grants provide crucial aid to those in need, but tough financial conditions have rendered even generous pockets bereft of spare change that used to support a variety of causes and efforts. As a result, the ever increasing demand and shrinking supply of funds is causing a rift in Greece’s social ecosystem.

“The crisis has had a huge impact in the area of philanthropy in Greece because most of Greece was unprepared for this,” Farmakis says. “While we all knew that there was a crisis coming, we could not estimate or realize the magnitude of the crisis and how it would affect especially the most vulnerable groups, which are migrants, children, and older people,” he adds.

With over three million individuals nearing poverty levels, Greece risks facing

”

tougher days if significant changes in mentality and the government’s treatment of businesses and non-profits are not realized.

“In Greece, the problem is there is a very huge bureaucracy that doesn’t want to understand, doesn’t want to help, doesn’t want to hear anything about eliminating any tax or giving any incentives, because the main issue now is to raise as many funds as possible to keep this machine alive, when we want to kill it and start something new,” Farmakis says. “So there is resistance.”

In post-crisis years, government and state funding for non-profits has been cut by 50 to 60 percent, while institutions are stuck with crippling operating costs. Until just recently in 2014, even in-kind donations to non-profits were taxed at a rate of 23 percent, according to Farmakis. But the elimination of value added tax (VAT) for in-kind donations is just the tip of the iceberg of financial burdens Greece-based non-profits face today.

“This is one of the weird things in Greece,” Farmakis asserts. “Greek non-profits are taxed in terms of donations received and in terms of their operating taxes, including real estate. Not only is there a one percent tax, which used to be an amazing 23 percent when I started 17 years ago, but the person or the foundation giving the donation is not tax exempt either, so both sides are paying,” he adds.

Stressing that NGOs and non-profits are a pillar of society serving as a safety net for populations in need of assistance, Farmakis warns that negligence to provide support for these groups will continue to stymie the progress of Greek society as a whole.

“The combination of these vulnerable groups being hit by the crisis, and the reduction of state aid has had dire effects, and we have seen the results in the population with on average two suicides a day now, with an explosion of HIV, a large increase in homelessness, and a heightened need for provision of basic services like food and medicine,” Farmakis notes.

Now in its fifth year, the Greek crisis has taken a toll on the young and old alike, especially those with no family backup and no promising way out of their situation. “In a sense, we have failed in Greece a lot, because in 2014 we have managed to fail the most vulnerable groups in our society,” Farmakis says.

In difficult times, society naturally relies in part on NGOs and non-profit organizations to take on alleviating the burdens of job loss, hunger, homelessness, and medical issues.

“In our field of work, we do the easy part.

We finance people who are on the front line,” Farmakis explains. “It is a war now with the crisis. If it were not for the NGOs on the front line, things would be much much worse today.”

Still, Farmakis warns that the state alone will not be able to provide adequate support for at-risk populations even if economic conditions improved greatly over the next few years. “We don’t think that we will ever have the social state that we used to have some time ago, so we have to substitute a social structure through the civil society and the NGOs,” he says.

Traditionally, philanthropic organizations were mainly dependent on significant state and private organization funding, which the crisis “decapitated,” Farmakis notes. “What is left now are some private institutions and some European funding which is not enough, but these two are holding these critical components of society together,” he says. “If we do not enhance support by finding new revenues for NGOs, the problems will be severely increased.”

In reaction to the crisis, NGOs have for the past five years mainly focused on addressing pressing social and medical needs as a first response for vulnerable groups. This places projects concentrating on education and the arts at the bottom of the barrel when it comes to funding, and all this, Farmakis says, negatively affects the greater society as a whole.

FOUNDATION

“

In a sense, we have failed in Greece a lot, because in 2014 we have managed to fail the most vulnerable groups in our society.

“To give away money is an easy matter and in any man’s power, but to decide to whom to give it, and how large and when, and for what purpose and how, is neither in every man’s power nor an easy matter,” - Aristotle portes magazine | fall 2014

07

“All these things are connected. It’s really a chain…what you have is despair, people losing their jobs and no employment opportunities, no access to health care because they typically lose their benefits so they don’t have funding for medicine or examinations. They are very much pressured psychologically, and this is spread to the whole family, not only the individuals,” he explains.

Depression and desperation fuel negativity and a number of societal downfalls that NGOs are rushing to curtail. “This is a cycle of events that promotes crime and the lack of a healthy environment,” Farmakis notes. “It’s a vicious cycle that needs to be broken and only NGOs and public institutions can break that, which will take many years I think.”

And though stories of a crisis exit and a more positive attitude are in the air, Farmakis warns it will be a while – at least a decade before the country truly realizes a recovery.

“I am the most pessimistic about this because even though I do believe that on the microeconomic level we are improving… even if you took the best-case scenario that all this is turning around, for these benefits to go back to half the level that they were existing in 2008, it will be ten years because we’re talking about three million people,” he says. “The numbers are just incredibly high to tackle with the financial availability that we have.”

Aside from the crisis, a series of recent

“Be kind, for everyone you meet is fighting a hard battle,” - Plato

non-profit mismanagement leaks making news headlines in Greece has spread a general mistrust for these institutions. This, in turn, has had negative effects even on honest groups and causes, Farmakis notes.

“We lost faith in the institutions…most people in Greece are very discouraged and avoid helping,” he says. “There is no accountability regarding where the funding goes. Even when you volunteer you don’t have a structured way of seeing the benefits of your work…there is always the issue of transparency and accountability in Greece.”

Reflecting on his experience managing over €1 billion in funding for various philanthropic causes, Farmakis doesn’t feel he’s done enough just yet, stressing the importance of continuing NGO support in Greece now more than ever.

“I do have a sense that I have achieved a lot,” he says. “But in another sense, no matter how much funding you give and what you do, the issues are so large that sometimes you can only alleviate circumstances, but you cannot make a lasting change in some situations. That is a motive to keep going, but it is also disappointing.”

Aiming to make a lasting change, Farmakis and his group are currently in talks with government officials to establish a registry and introduce volunteer-friendly legislation that would reduce non-profit taxation, and better-enforce independent auditing and bookkeeping activities. Working with major

organizations like the Stavros Niarchos and Bodossaki foundations, as well as with European Union funds, Farmakis continues his mission to bring financial support to Greek non-profits and NGOs. With roots in Nafpaktos, Farmakis is choosing to stay in the country to work on local initiatives. “We love Greece not because of the cliché things like the weather,” he asserts. “We love it here because the people have potential and a lot of character.”

VOLUNTEERISM IN GREECE Greeks are known to be hospitable and family-oriented people, so global rankings documenting charity and philanthropy that place Greece below countries such as the Democratic Republic of Congo, may come as a surprise to many. Of the 15 percent of volunteering Greek citizens, just three percent are members of an NGO, with five percent participating regularly in volunteer activities and the remaining seven percent participating on occasion, according to a 2013 study by the Human Grid, a project of TEDxAthens.

And despite a substantial increase in volunteerism over the past two years, volunteer participation in Greece remains low compared to the majority of countries in the EU. According to the Human Grid, the remaining 85 percent of the population of 1001 individuals surveyed claims to have never participated in any volunteer activity, though 34 percent of that number noted it is highly probable they would do so in the future.

This identifies an opportunity for nonprofits to transform interest into action given the appropriate conditions and social incentives. Several organizations aiming to help encourage a volunteering culture in Greece include Volunteer4Greece, ELIX, and GloVo, a global volunteers platform with over 4,250 registered participants to date.

The Human Grid study goes on to note that the number of Greek citizens who participate in volunteer organizations increased by 44 percent between 2010 and 2012. And while just 15 percent of the population claims to volunteer time to non-profits and NGOs, a shocking 38 percent of Greek citizens polled believe they may need to turn to these very organizations for aid in the near future because of the economic crisis.

“

Despite the setbacks…we hope that over the next few years, our role will not be needed as much in Greece and we will move to other countries, but it will take time.

”

Statistics show that in comparison to other EU countries, Greece lags in volunteerism.

The highest rate of citizen participation in voluntary and charitable activities is seen in Nordic EU member states like Denmark, Finland, and Sweden, while the lowest rates are in Bulgaria, Spain, Portugal, Romania, and Greece, according to a 2011 report based on pre-crisis data by the European Foundation for the Improvement of Living and Working Conditions.

“The Olympic Games provided a very good opportunity in movement,” Farmakis explains.

“There were over 50,000 volunteers that were lost after the games and we lost the opportunity to become a more humane society, volunteer more, and help each other. The results of the crisis would have been alleviated if we had a strong civil society,” he says.

Aside from the relatively low level of philanthropic activity recorded in Greece, the general lack of documented information specifically on volunteerism in the country

Greece’s Ranking on World Giving Index:

is something a new legislative bill, which Farmakis was instrumental in promoting, aims to change. Globally speaking, Greece comes in at 120th worldwide in terms of donations and volunteerism, according to the Charities Aid Foundation 2014 World Giving Index.* Furthermore, Greece was ranked 86th in helping a stranger, 123rd in donating money, and 108th in volunteering time, according to the report, which uses data collected in 2013.

The World Giving Index ranks both the United States of America and Myanmar 1st on the list for a combination of donating time and money. With a strong culture of charity, both Myanmar and the U.S. rise well above Greece.

Cyprus comes in 23rd, and last on the list globally for 2014 is Yemen at 135th. The report goes on to suggest that existing country wealth does not guarantee a high level of giving since in 2014, only five countries in the top 20 ranked for their philanthropic actions are part of the G20 - the world’s largest economies.

Additionally, high unemployment rates among global youth ages 15 to 29 have also had significant effects on donation quantities, as a corresponding reduction in disposable income has contributed to a reduced participation in donations among the youth, the report notes.

“Despite the setbacks - and usually the main setback in my opinion in Greece is the lack of education and communication - we would like to use even the limited funds we have efficiently,” Farmakis says. “We hope that over the next few years, our role will not be needed as much in Greece and we will move to other countries, but it will take time,” he adds.

86th in helping a stranger

108th 123rd in volunteering time

in donating money

120/140 worldwide

*The Charities Aid Foundation 2014 World Giving Index was based on 2013 data collected from the Gallup’s World Poll Research Project surveying 130,000 individuals in over 140 countries. Greece’s rankings document an increase in all sections since 2012, according to the report, which uses data collected in 2013.

For more information on Elpis Philanthropy Advisors, visit elpis.org.gr.

When asked “Have you participated in a specific volunteer action or activity?” survey participants in Greece responded:

of those

YES NO

85% 44% 34% 15% { 7% 5% 3% first began volunteering after the onset of the crisis

volunteer occasionally

believe they are likely to actively volunteer in the near future

frequently volunteer but are not members

are members of a non-profit or volunteer organization

*Based on survey data collected & presented by the Human Grid Project in 2013.

09

Greeks Making it in the Valley & Beyond ... {Profiling Five U.S.-based Companies Founded by Greek Entrepreneurs.}

BY DEMETRIOS POGKAS

A

s an Athens-based journalist, I have had the chance to cover the Greek startup ecosystem’s day-to-day growth for the last two years.

As intriguing the achievements of the local companies and entrepreneurs may be, what never seizes to amaze our readers and followers are the Greeks able and skillful enough to make it in more competitive environments - more specifically in the Mecca of tech entrepreneurship: Silicon Valley.

When Portes Magazine asked me to contribute to their business section, I thought I should showcase a handful of those companies founded and run

by Greeks, or individuals of Greek origin. These startups have sprouted in some of the biggest tech cities in America, providing a source of inspiration to other Greeks venturing to start their own businesses.

The following are five such companies, offering an indicative list of those making gains in the U.S.

- The Startup Roots Location Labs - Born in 2002. Raised in Emeryville, CA Fleksy - Born in 2011. Raised in San Fransisco, CA Metanautix - Born in 2012. Raised in Palo Alto, CA Terranova - Born in 2012. Raised in Chicago, IL HealthSherpa - Born in 2013. Raised in San Fransisco, CA portes magazine | fall 2014

Portes Magazine Graphics

Have you ever thought of returning to Greece to start a business? Why or why not?

people, access to capital, access to potential clients, a regulatory environment, access to a personal network of mentors and advisors, where you actually want to live your life, and so on.

I have lived outside of Greece for almost 15 years - leaving long before it was popular to complain about the economic, political, and regulatory environment of Greece.

People called me crazy when I decided to live in Manchester in 2004. Greece was much better by so many counts then, but I liked Manchester more.

With this said, I believe Greece has its strong points for some startups - a much lower cost base, incredibly skilled people, and unique advantages in markets like tourism, agriculture, and others. It also has access to some markets regionally that are hard to access from somewhere like the U.S. Would I return to Greece? My high school essay was a critique of the American Dream and an argument about how it doesn’t apply anymore. Now I packed my home and moved to San Francisco to experience it. Never say never...

My advice to fellow Greeks would be to switch off the TV, think about their business idea, and consider where it would be best to execute it. You need to consider everything in your decision, and for many, Greece is the best place to pursue their dreams.

“I am not an Athenian or a Greek, but a citizen of the world,” as Socrates once said.

There are many considerations of where you go to start a business: access to skilled

- Ioannis Verdelis, Fleksy Co-founder & COO

“

My advice to fellow Greeks would be to switch off the TV, think about their business idea, and consider where it would be best to execute it.

“

Fleksy (formerly known as Syntellia), is a San Francisco-based company developing a smart keyboard of the same name for mobile devices. It was founded by two Greeks, Kostas Eleftheriou (CEO) and Ioannis Verdelis (COO) in 2011, after they sold their previous startup, called BlindType (another smart mobile keyboard product) to none other than Google itself.

Verdelis and Eleftheriou are trying to develop an input method for mobile devices that is better, faster, and more reliable than the keyboards produced by Google for Android and Apple for iOS, or any other third-party developers.

Backed by $3 million in seed funding from venture capital (VC) firms, Fleksy has already secured important partnerships in the tech arena. The team has managed to seal a deal with Samsung, making Fleksy the standard input method for the South Korean tech giant’s wearable products, like their new smartwatch.

Having run the first trials of their proprietary algorithm, which adapts to the typing habits of its user, Fleksy claims that you can text correctly on your mobile device even without looking at it, and it’s currently holding the World Guinness Record for the fastest accurate typing mechanism on mobile devices.

BUSINESS

Fleksy

- Ioannis Verdelis, Fleksy Co-founder & COO

A prototype for Samsung’s new smartwatch featuring Fleksy’s smart keyboard.

Kostas Eleftheriou & Ioannis Verdelis, Fleksy Founders.

portes magazine | fall 2014

11

Terranova

Location Labs

George Stoikos was born in Thessaloniki in 1970, and after completing his master’s in informatics at the Imperial College of London, he worked in various companies in Europe and the U.S. in the fields of mass media, advertisement, oil and car industries, and utilities.

He founded Terranova in October 2012 after an eight-year career as a Chief Technology Officer in a Chicago tech company which he helped merge with two other companies, eventually going public on the NASDAQ. Terranova is a Chicago-based firm that has developed a mobile app letting users alert people about what’s happening now around them. The app showcases their unique experiences, invites others to join their activities and discover new places, events, or businesses. It does so by creating a live, geo-tagged “beacon” that’s viewable via a real-time photo feed letting Facebook friends, Twitter followers, and everyone in the vicinity discover what they are searching for.

Terranova has made an impact already by being selected to pitch its application at the South by South West Interactive, one of the world’s most famous tech festivals taking place in Austin, Texas. Terranova was selected among 500 other innovative social products and ideas.

Although Location Labs was originally founded and first operated in Asia in 2002, during the last eight years the company has been based in Emeryville, California.

Greek-Canadian Tasso Roumeliotis’ company develops safety applications for the mobile era, including parental control, device and user geo-location, locking modes during driving, and more. Each application is customizable and is being sold to telecommunications operators as service software for resale to their customers.

In its 12 years of existence, Location Labs has received $26 million from VC and corporate funds, and has grown from a twoperson operation to a company with 220 employees. Location Labs partners with all major U.S. mobile telecommunications companies and its applications reach over 1.2 million subscribers. The biggest milestone for Location Labs was achieved in early September 2014 when AVG – one of the biggest companies in internet security – announced the acquisition of Location Labs for a total of up to $220 million, with an agreement seeing that Tasso Roumeliotis stays on board as CEO, leading the company through the challenges lying ahead.

Good ideas are a dime a dozen, and mediocre products can be worth millions. The transformation of a great idea into a successful startup depends on one thing only: execution.

The challenge is great. The transformation of a concept in someone’s head into a tangible product that other people consistently use is not a trivial thing, but in its basic form it can be summarized in simple terms. If the people that originally had the idea can work together for the long-run toward a common goal, creating something that even a small number of people are actually using as part of their routine, while changing and adapting the product and their mindset along the way, then they are set to succeed.

- George Stoikos, Terranova Co-founder & CEO portes magazine | fall 2014

“

There is advantage in the struggle that young Greeks face. The missing ingredient?

Leadership from the U.S. coming back and nurturing the talent.

“

What do you think makes a good idea turn into a successful startup?

- Tasso Roumeliotis, Location Labs Founder & CEO

As someone experienced with the tech industry, would you invest in Greece’s tech market right now?

I would absolutely 100 percent invest, for a few reasons. Firstly, the entrepreneurial pursuit - the basis of tech - is a foundational Greek instinct. Silicon Valley, where I live, is flooded with Greeks and Greek-Americans doing amazing things, so the skill sets are there. Secondly, Greece has smart, cheap, and hungry engineers. Silicon Valley labor forces are spoiled and lavished like aristocrats in a Caligulan court. There is advantage in the struggle that young Greeks face. The missing ingredient? Leadership from the U.S. coming back and nurturing the talent.

- Tasso Roumeliotis, Location Labs Founder & CEO

HealthSherpa

Metanautix Theo Vassilakis and Toli Lerios’ friendship goes way back before the founding of Metanautix - a big data analytics startup - in 2012. They first met 20 years ago at Stanford University when Lerios was a teaching assistant and Vassilakis was a student. They ended up working for the biggest tech companies of our era: Vassilakis at Google and Lerios at Facebook. Driving from their engineering background and years of experience with data analysis, Vassilakis (CEO) and Lerios (CTO) have built a data computing engine that allows users to work with their data from all different sources in one single point without needing to build a database first.

Using SQL, a simple and widespread programming language, Metanautix is a convert system that integrates the three steps of data analysis (including extracting the data, building the database, and analyzing the data) for which companies would normally need three different applications. Based in Palo Alto, California, and backed with a Series A funding round of $7 million by a leading VC firm in Silicon Valley, Metanautix

“

Greece certainly has the human capital and spirit to make things change, and the saying ‘a crisis is a terrible thing to waste’ seems to apply.

“

- Theo Vassilakis, Metanautix Co-founder & CEO

grew to 25 people, exited stealth mode in early August 2014, and is already counting their first customers. In keeping ties and frequently visiting Greece, both Vassilakis and Lerios have expressed a desire to expand their business, at some point, to their home country.

What do you think about the growing startup ecosystem in Greece? Could this rise in entrepreneurial activity be sustainable?

Both my co-founder Toli Lerios and I are keen on seeing the Greek startup ecosystem grow, and we’re always happy to hear from Greek entrepreneurs who get in touch with us. Greece certainly has the human capital and spirit to make things change, and the saying “a crisis is a terrible thing to waste” seems to apply.

There’s an opportunity right now where otherwise difficult circumstances could lead to enough change in the regulatory environment and individual views of risk to really create new things in a sustainable manner.

- Theo Vassilakis, Metanautix Co-founder & CEO

Having moved to the U.S. at the age of 17 to study at Yale University, George Kalogeropoulos first started his professional career working at a hedge fund. After three years at the “well-paid but socially useless job,” as he recollects, the Greek-American entrepreneur wanted to reconnect with his roots. When finished with his military service, having voluntarily joined the Greek Special Forces in Cyprus, George Kalogeropoulos tried to start his own company in Greece in 2012. The Greek environment amidst the financial crisis, however, wasn’t really supportive, so Kalogeropoulos decided to move back to the U.S. and try his luck in California instead.

After working at a couple of startups, he joined YCombinator - the biggest accelerator in the U.S. and frankly the world - with his own project: RentMetrics, a platform allowing users access to data on home and apartment rentals in the U.S. The company managed to raise $1.1 million from big VC funds, recording a 10 percent growth per month.

But in November 2013, Obamacare - the act under which each state had to expand their subsidy coverage to low-income citizens - gave birth to his most successful project thus far: HealthSherpa. This new platform allows Americans to easily navigate through different health plans based on simple personal information, offering options to enroll in the plan of their preference. The purpose is not to substitute the state’s own web platform in terms of the sign-up process, but rather reduce the time needed to browse through the different plans from 45 minutes to just 5 minutes. The problems healthcare. gov faced, and the interest generated by the media led more than a million Americans to visit HealthSherpa during the first month of its existence.

Now, along with other companies, HealthSherpa is being contracted by the U.S. government to offer one-stop shop solutions for buying healthcare services, making their revenues from a commission out of each completed transaction. With 20 million Americans expected to sign up for healthcare services through the Obamacare scheme this year, HealthSherpa - backed with a new funding round - feels ready to grab a big part of that pie. portes magazine | fall 2014

13

BY THINKBIZ

What makes or breaks a startup? {ThinkBiz, an Athens-based student entrepreneurial club, shares insight on the expanding startup world in Greece.}

BY VASILIKI MITRAKOS What do you get when you mix economic volatility with technology, knowledge, and a desire for change? A young generation of Greeks eager to explore alternative paths to success and ready to challenge old models of thinking.

Reflecting on this trend, the student-run group called ThinkBiz resonates the changing attitudes and needs of students against the backdrop of the startup ecosystem in Greece.

Founded in 2011 by a group of students from the Athens University of Economics and Business (AUEB), ThinkBiz is the first official portes magazine | fall 2014

student organization in Greece focused on developing the culture of entrepreneurship within universities.

“The Greek society is passing through a very difficult crisis, which isn’t only economic but also social,” says ThinkBiz member Michael Zouliatis. “Because of the crisis, more and more people tend to find ways to solve their problems with the creation of startups.”

The group’s basic principles include fostering student cooperation, openness and innovation, with a strong emphasis on networking, research, soft skills development, and creative thinking.

“The Greek startup ecosystem seems to be evolving fast. There are more and more Greek startups that are succeeding in penetrating global markets and becoming successful,” says ThinkBiz member Stavros Manos. “In addition, the Greek startup community seems to be more cooperative than ever. I’m proud to say that ThinkBiz is part of that community and seeks to bring this mentality to all young people.”

Groups like ThinkBiz, and the multitude of startups launched by young Greeks, have finally gained enough momentum to challenge the prevailing negative image of business-oriented activities entering the

universities. In fact, ThinkBiz has begun to expand beyond AUEB to include student members from a number of universities across Athens.

“Despite the fact that Greek universities pump out a multitude of capable business and technology oriented graduates, the Greek society is characterized by its lack of businesses,” says ThinkBiz member Velisarios Milousis. “That is because of the stagnant notions about entrepreneurship stemming from remnants of decades past, and a complex and scary legal system concerning new businesses.”

On the contrary, ThinkBiz promotes the idea that entrepreneurship is a viable solution to the economic and professional problems faced by young adults, Milousis claims. The group serves as an information and network platform bringing students into contact with founders of existing startups, with a goal to influence student understanding of entrepreneurship.

One of their latest studies includes a summary of the key characteristics that can make or break a new business, based on the profiles of existing Greek startups.

BUSINESS These graphics represent the results of a study conducted by the ThinkBiz Research and Visualization team, which examines the factors that shape the performance of Greek startup companies - defined as companies that sustain staff and operations in Greece, were established in 2009 or later, have a scalable business model, and are characterized by high-growth potential.

The data is based on 46 responses to an online questionnaire measuring various factors of the participant startup companies. Data collection occured between January and December 2013.

For more information on ThinkBiz, visit thinkbiz.gr.

portes magazine | fall 2014

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Sudden explosions pierce the quiet afternoon…the Mediterranean’s deep blue is angry and speckled with ugly tanks, the open skies are crowded with massive metal planes, noisy and fierce. The air smells no longer of olive fields, but instead of fear. It is July 20th, 1974 and Cyprus will never be the same.

Frozen in Time: The Cyprus Invasion 40 Years Later

BY CHRISTINA LORIDAS

U

nder the pretense of protecting their ethnic minority, Turkey invaded Cyprus for the first time in July of 1974, and again in August of that summer. The second invasion saw Turkish forces taking over more of the island, in total occupying almost 40 percent of Cyprus. The invasion resulted in an estimated 8,000 to 9,500 casualties for both sides combined, as well as 2,000 to 3,000 reported missing persons of Greek-Cypriot descent. It also led to mass destruction of property, desecration of churches, and the fleeing of over 170,000 citizens from their rightful homes - homes that have since been turned into stables or offered to other settlers… homes frozen in time, still fully stocked with closets of clothes, dishes, and memories of another life.

In 1983, the illegal entity in the occupied part of Cyprus announced itself as the

portes magazine | fall 2014

Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, a self-declared state recognized by no other country internationally, except for Turkey.

Forty years after the invasion, the Turkish army continues to occupy Cypriot territory with a presence of over 40,000 troops.

Thousands of Greek-Cypriots who fled their homes years prior have still not been able to return Among the damage that remains visible in the northern half of the island are crumbling farmhouses, deserted villages, and former Greek Orthodox churches that lay barren.

Today, a long stretch of barbed wire fence divides Cyprus, serving as a reminder of the country’s illegal partition in the not so distant past. Several decades of no citizen mobility continued until 2003, when the efforts of the United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus (UNFICYP) allowed for citizens of Cyprus to cross back and forth

GOING BEYOND AWARENESS Since 2009, AHIF has sponsored the Student Foreign Policy Trip to Greece and Cyprus providing students of Hellenic descent from across the U.S. with first-hand exposure to foreign policy issues affecting Greece and Cyprus, their relations with the U.S., and the interests of the U.S. in the region.

During the two-week trip, students meet with various Greek and Cypriot government representatives, as well as with experts in the field of international relations, for briefings, discussions, and educational tours. Among dignitaries met are the President of the Hellenic Republic, U.S. Ambassadors to Greece and Cyprus, Greek military officials, and numerous political advisors. Students also experience Cyprus’ current political

“

More than a division of land and sea, it was a demarcation of freedom and occupation, and a paradox of beauty and beast.

SPECIAL FEATURE

climate on a special visit to the abandoned Nicosia airport and the island’s UN Buffer Zone.

The most eye-opening and bone-chilling experience, however, is the visit to the once glamorous resort destination of the 70s, the seaside village of Famagusta, which has become an eerily untouched modern-day ghost town.

“Having the opportunity to travel to the occupied side of Cyprus gave me a very unusual feeling,” says 2014 participant Alexandra Veletsis. “Never in my life and through all my travels in Europe and Asia have I ever felt so uncomfortable. Walking on the beach in front of the dead city of Famagusta and having the watch tower look over us made me feel like we were constantly being observed… it materialized all of the issues we had been talking about.”

Leah Barkoukis, 2010 participant, also recalls how the visit to the Famagusta shoreline left her with a striking impression.

“More than a division of land and sea, it was a demarcation of freedom and occupation, and a paradox of beauty and beast,” she says.

The Foreign Policy Trip overall aims to unite students in their beliefs and passions, recognizing that the problems with Cyprus and Turkey - a politically significant topic to this day - are far greater than one could ever understand by simply reading historical passages from a textbook.

“This trip has helped me combine my love

“

between the government-controlled and illegally occupied areas. Monitored by the United Nations (UN), the buffer zone is open only at certain times of the day.

Among the visitors to the damaged and abandoned areas in Cyprus is a group of U.S. students who participate on an annual Student Foreign Policy Trip to Greece and Cyprus, run by the Washington D.C.-based American Hellenic Institute Foundation (AHIF). Portes Magazine explores the contemporary political significance of the invasion of Cyprus through the reflections of these university students.

- Leah Barkoukis

for Greece with my passion for politics and education, and has left me with a deep desire to educate those in the U.S. on the importance of U.S.-Greek relations and CypriotGreek relations,” says 2014 participant Peter Mills. “Greece and Cyprus serve as stable democratic allies to the U.S. with a geostrategic importance that is unmatched by any other nation in the region.”

During the Foreign Policy Trip, AHIF prioritizes educating the youth on the future relationships between the U.S., Greece, and Cyprus.

“It is important to see how modern Greece is a valuable ally and asset to the United States,” says AHI Legislative Director and 2010 participant Georgea Polizos.

Once buzzing with life, students visit the now desolate Nicosia airport whose terminal & runways still host abandoned aircraft laying to waste for decades.

portes magazine | fall 2014

17

TIMELINE OF EVENTS August 16th 1960 - British rule in Cyprus ends. Greek and Turkish Cypriots share power in newly independent Republic of Cyprus.

1963-1967 - Unanimity erodes and fighting between the two communities raises UN concern. UN troops deployed to abate conflict.

July 15th 1974 - A pro-Enosis coup led by Greek army officers joins the Greek Cypriot National Guard in fighting off the resistance.

July 19th - Archbishop Makarios travels to New York to address the UN Security Council about the tension in Cyprus.

July 20th - Turkey invades Cyprus with about 40,000 troops, of which 568 are killed and 2,000 wounded.

July 25th - Turkey proceeds to ignore a ceasefire agreement while talks in Geneva between Turkey, Greece, and Great Britain are happening.

August 15th - Turkey takes over Famagusta, holding 37% of Cyprus. Some 140,000 Greek Cypriot refugees flee to the south while 50,000 Turks move north.

November 15th 1983 - The region of occupied Cyprus declares itself the “Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus,” recognized by no one except for Turkey.

Discussing the political significance of Cyprus’ history and current challenges with various officials and experts also leaves the students with a newfound interest in promoting international awareness of these issues.

“The Cyprus issue is particularly noteworthy because it is relatively unrecognized by most, but it affects the daily lives of hundreds of thousands of people every day. Unfortunately, it’s too quiet. This issue will never change unless there is more noise,” says 2009 participant Lia Seremetis.

Since its establishment, 64 students have participated in the AHIF Foreign Policy Trip.

Some 15 of them say they have changed career paths due to the program’s impact, and are now working in public policy on Capitol Hill, or in the think tank community advocating for these matters, says AHI President Nick Larigakis.

“It is a life changing experience for many of these students and it is rewarding to see that we have had such a high impact,” Larigakis, says.

For Seremetis, having had the opportunity to visit the restricted areas and learn more about the tension in the region was not only an eye-opening experience for her, but also fostered an interest in accelerating improved relations.

“The trip shed light on the fact that there are so many long-term injustices that seem impossible to overcome, but that doesn’t

mean efforts shouldn’t be made to do so,” she says.

Likewise, after forty years, Larigakis believes we are closer than ever to reaching agreements and coming to a solution.

The U.S. Government, he says, is starting to focus more on the Cyprus issue. Vice President Joe Biden’s visit to Cyprus in May of 2014 marked the first visit by a U.S. Vice President since 1962, and also sprouted new hope as he reaffirmed that the U.S. only recognizes the Republic of Cyprus. Larigakis is also optimistic about passing along the responsibility of garnering international attention and action for Cyprus onto the next generation.

“There comes a point in time to pass the torch along,” he says. “The next generation of leaders needs to be aware of these issues, among them the Macedonia name dispute with the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYROM), emerging energy concerns in the region, and the Turkish territorial infringement in the Aegean area, an issue that hasn’t been brought into focus as of yet.”

In concentrating on educating young Greek-American students, AHIF’s activities help bridge the gap between awareness, advocacy, and future action regarding contemporary issues with historical weight.

For more information on the AHIF Foreign Policy Trip, visit ahiworld.org.

The abandoned resort city of Famagusta, warded off from the neighboring tourist activity by barbed wire fences. For decades, the location has been left untouched despite growing tourism in the region.

April 2003 - The “Annan Plan,” a several thousand page document, is submitted

by UN Secretary General Kofi Annan as a basis for negotiations between Cyprus and Turkey. The potential solution, although voted on by the majority of Turkish-Cypriots, was rejected by two-thirds of the Cypriots because of many flaws.

February 25th 2013 - The Republic of Cyprus elects Nicos Anastasiades as President of Cyprus and under his leadership begin negotiations for a potential settlement to the division of the island.

Photos courtesy of the American Hellenic Institute

?

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O P EN D O O R S

portes magazine | fall 2014

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from mystical to misunderstood:

The Greek Monsters

{Fascinating, frightening and strange, the monsters of Greek mythology have inspired authors and artists throughout the centuries. Today, they are celebrated with a modern twist, presented in contemporary form with neo-black style figures and iconography by a group of award-winning young Greek designers.}

B

ringing design to another level with simplistic shapes and bold colors, Thessaloniki-based Beetroot Design Group is an award-winning communication design company and think tank with a mission to discover, develop, and utilize the essence of a brand, product, or service on a global level. Designing selfinitiated, as well as commissioned projects, the guys and girls at Beetroot are talented and enthusiastic designers who love Greece.

The team’s interests range from philosophy to politics...ethics to aesthetics, focusing on social issues, challenging norms, and abolishing restrictions - all with a dash of humor.

“A tale that begins with a beet will end with a devil. That’s a risk we have to take,” reads a line in The Jitterbug Perfume, a book by author Tom Robbins that inspired Beetroot Design Group’s founding members Alexis Nikou, Vagelis Liakos, and Yiannis Charalampopoulos.

After winning a Red Dot Communication Design Award for Agency of the Year in 2011 – think Oscars equivalent for the design world – the Beetroot team was invited to create their now most popular project: The Greek Monsters Exhibit. Based off a set of original poems and bold black and red illustrations from Beetroot’s book titled The Misunderstood Monsters of Greek Mythology, this collection includes modern paintings and sculptures of the Cyclops, the Minotaur, the Stymphalian Birds and more than twenty other mythological creatures.

Portes Magazine caught up with the group during their visit to Chicago for the debut of their Greek Monsters Exhibit at The National Hellenic Museum in Greektown.

portes magazine | fall 2014

Q&A

with Beetroot Director, Production Designer & Writer Paris Mexis:

What did it feel like winning a Red Dot Award?

This whole thing happened in Germany when the socioeconomic crisis in Greece started to break out. Everybody was on Greece’s neck and especially in Germany there was so much coverage about the crisis saying that Greece is the monster of Europe that Greeks are people who do not work, who do not produce, and just get money from the Europeans. At the same time, we were being awarded in Germany for our efficiency.

What was the idea behind the Greek Monsters illustration collection submitted for the competition?

The original point was to say “You call us the Greek monsters? Ok here we are. We are the Greek monsters and we are coming to get your efficiency award. Thank you very much.” It was a bit tricky and a bit political.

We were exhibiting ancient Greek stuff in a contemporary way. We were exhibiting things that had a past of their own, but through a contemporary prism and in light of a political situation that was really relevant at the time.

So we didn’t know what to expect at the time.

If anything, we thought the Germans might be a little hostile to the idea, but in fact it was the opposite. They loved it!

The Greek Monsters Exhibit has since traveled to Berlin, Belgrade, Essen, Chaumont, Athens, Thessaloniki, New York, and most recently Chicago. What can you say of its success?

Nobody anticipated this success. In Greece we have this saying: “When you get international attention, you might get some attention in Greece as well.” So Greece began to notice after the exhibition had international attention, and that’s how we got to do the exhibition with the Benaki Museum in Athens, which was the first exhibition outside the Red Dot centers.

Aside from aesthetics, the Greek Monsters Exhibit also serves an educational purpose. Tell us more about the educational aspect and the poems that accompany each monster.

The educational component of the exhibit was added after the exhibition in Athens because the group realized the educational potential it had for students to talk about things like design, mythology, and even issues like racism and discrimination. We decided on including poetry from the beginning because it’s the equivalent of an image in conveying the most with the simplest design by using few words to convey a larger message. That’s how the poetry came to be.

...continued on page 22

ARTS & CULTURE The traveling Greek Monsters Exhibit displays an array of creative media, embedding paintings, sculpture, literature, sound & even handheld technology in the interactive setup.

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21

What is the overarching idea behind the Greek Monsters Exhibit?

How does the public view some of Beetroot’s more popular creations?

Our creations are all monsters because we call them monsters. The Minotaur for example has a name, his name is Asterion.

But no one referred to him as Asterion, everyone referred to him as the Minotaur because he was a monster. What we thought was more important was that we don’t do an ancient Greek exhibition, or an archeological exhibition, or one about the myths of ancient Greece. The exhibit was like a cover, or the Trojan horse, for us to convey a more important message, which is that we hate discrimination.

Some people hate them and some people love them… but this is usually a sign you are doing a good job. If everybody loves it, usually it’s not strong. If everybody hates it, you need to go back to the drawing board. If there is a mixture it means you are shaking things up in a good way.

What other types of design projects does Beetroot take on?

Beetroot never undertakes projects that we feel we do not have anything to say about.

In other words, we do not fake it, and that’s a huge difference between a communication agency and an ad agency. We are designers so we need to convey a strong message if there is one. If there isn’t, we cannot make it up.

Among other celebrated projects, Beetroot has also designed the logo for the Hellenic Presidency of the Council of the European Union. What was the concept behind that?

The design reflected the agenda of the presidency, which was naval affairs and sea trade. A problem that we Greeks have is conveying a thousands-of-years-old civilization in a contemporary way that is not stagnant and is in fact dynamic to reflect that Greece has a future. The design focused on fluidity of the shapes, design, and meaning.

How does the team’s Greek background emerge in Beetroot’s work and designs?

We never do something intentionally Greek, because we have Greece within us already. It is in our language and our culture and even in the lines in our brush strokes.

Greeks were merchants who travelled the world and were bounded together by language. So when we talk about the Hellenic world, we are talking about people who speak the language and are really curious, and that’s who we are.

As a writer and designer, what’s your take on the much-discussed Greek crisis?

This whole thing with the economic crisis in the long run might be a good thing, although it doesn’t look like it right now. It might be a good thing because there were some really bad structures in place doing anything but being creative. And Greeks are intuitively creative, but you need some structure and some support to help the entire system.

Now this thing is changing and it’s really interesting to see that we are becoming a force in communication design rather than production or architecture, because the major difference is in the means and matter of production. Communication design is based on ideas, and its physical format is at most on a surface. I really believe that as the economy gets stronger, we are really going to have a strong export market for communication design.

What would you say is the most important aspect of design?

Cut out & share your our very own Lernaean Hydra, Stymphalian Birds & Cerberus monsters created by Beetroot Design Group. portes magazine | fall 2014

No matter what you are designing, you need a good design to convey a message to someone who may know nothing about what you are creating.

the

Minotaur - Creativity -

I trip in darkness waiting for an idea Waiting for the idea My deadline is set My labyrinth has limits And although I have traveled these dark Corridors again and again My path is always new I am stronger than my maze If in need, I will break a wall and make A new path This maze made for me Is also made by me The labyrinth is mine I am its master When the idea comes I will seize to exist Light will be spread to the maze And the twirls and turns of its halls Will become a straight line The journey The intellect The effort Of the monster Will merge with the idea And few will be able to perceive That before the idea There was darkness A labyrinth And a monster

Poem featured in the Greek Monsters Exhibit. Cut out & share your our very own Minotaur created

by Beetroot Design Group. portes magazine | fall 2014

23

gallery Portes

Our selection of original artwork

Fish Out of Familiar Waters - Lila Koufopoulou - Acrylic on Canvas Santorini Sunset 2 - Anthe Mitrakos - Acrylic on Paper Change, Paradox & Humor - Milena Dimitrokallis - Acrylic on Canvas Luminous Ways 27.2 - Milly Martionou - Oil on Canvas #BO7 - Alexandros Vasmoulakis - Ink & Acrylic on Canvas

portes magazine | fall 2014

ARTS & CULTURE portes magazine | fall 2014

25

Exploring Athens: Demystifying

5 Ottoman Ruins 2

BY KATHERINE POSEIDON

A

thens, as with all cities, has a unique history that sets it apart and has left traces throughout the built environment. At the same time, what can be seen in Athens today provides only a limited glimpse into its past. A combination of factors, incidental and deliberate, domestic and international, recent and distant, have all contributed to gradual and complimentary processes of emphasis and erasure that have transformed Athens into the city it is today. The capital of the Hellenic Republic, with an urban population of around 3.8 million people, is not only home to around a third of the country’s population, but it is also a major tourism destination.

(Two and a half million tourists flew through Athens International Airport in 2013). For both visitors and locals alike, Athens cannot be separated from the perceptions of its history. Here, we explore what physically remains of the Ottoman Empire’s influence in the city.

1

The Fethiye Cami Mosque of the Conqueror

A second surviving mosque is located within the site of the Roman Agora, the so-called Fethiye Cami Mosque of the Conqueror. There has been some speculation about the origins and dating of this mosque. The official tourist pamphlet gives the date of 1456, based on the traditional narrative in both Greek and Turkish historiography that it was built following the Ottoman conquest of Athens, thus giving it its name. Built on the foundation of an earlier basilica, the original mosque was most likely destroyed, and the current structure built in the 17th century. According to researchers, population records suggest that there would have been no need at all for a relatively large and sophisticated mosque, as there was already a mosque built on the Acropolis for the Ottoman garrison and the lower town did not yet have a significant Muslim population, implying that it was built later. Further analysis of traveler accounts supports this argument, following a substantial debate on not only Ottoman architecture, but also the Ottoman city of Athens. After the establishment of the Greek State, it was used as a military bakery and then a storage area for antiquities from the surrounding site of the Roman Agora until structural damage was discovered. The mosque is currently closed for renovation, which has been going on since 2001.

Tzistarakis Mosque

Perhaps the most visible of the Ottoman monuments in Athens today is the Tzistarakis Mosque in Monastiraki Square, which overlooks one of the busiest pedestrian areas of Athens for both tourists and locals alike. It was built in 1759 by the governor of Athens at the time, the voivode Tzistarakis, in the heart of the area known as the Kato Pazari or lower bazaar. After the establishment of the Greek State it was used variously as barracks for military musicians, a prison, and a warehouse, and was restored in 1915 by the Greek architect-archaeologist Anastasios Orlandos. From 1918 until 1973, it was the home of the Museum of Greek Handicrafts, which became the Museum of Greek Folk Art. The mosque has acted as a branch of that museum since 1975, housing modern Greek pottery from the collection of Vasilis Kyriazopoulos, donated in 1974. portes magazine | fall 2014

4

Bathhouse of the Winds

In addition to the mosques, the Bathhouse of the Winds is perhaps the most clearly Ottoman monument remaining in Athens that is treated as such, although today it serves as another branch of the Museum of Greek Folk Art. The Hammam of Abid Efendi is in the same area near the Roman Agora, and was built during the first period of Ottoman rule in Athens, between 1453 and 1669.

A second building phase in 1870 added and repurposed rooms so that there were separate male and female wings, and later an individual bath was also added. It continued to operate as a bath-house during the 1800s, though damaged, up until 1965. The complex was later given to the Museum of Greek Folk Art in 1984, and restoration began in 1989.

The work was completed in 1999, and it now serves as a museum space devoted to the theme of historical views of bodily cleanliness, care, and beautification.

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A third mosque can also be found in the area, although the extent to which it can be considered extant is debatable. The foundations of the Kucuk Cami, or small mosque, are located next to the Roman Agora, in a small courtyard in Plaka. Inside the Roman Agora site, a diagram of the archaeological area includes this mosque. But it is outside the fence and up the hill, and indeed there is very little to see. Perhaps a mosque used by Muslim Albanians, its size implies that it was peripheral even when in use. Historians suggest it was destroyed around the time of the War of Independence, and the foundations were only discovered in 2004 during preOlympic Games excavations.

DESTINATIONS

3

The Kucuk Cami (small mosque)

Madrasa Islamic School Complex

The last major Ottoman structure left standing (to an extent) is the Madrasa, an Islamic school complex. The inscription over the door, which is the largest remaining part of the structure, notes that it was founded by Mehmet Fahri in 1721. Eleven cells surrounding a central courtyard originally formed the Madrasa. Architecturally, the remnants of the building indicate it displayed similar features of other Athenian structures at that time.

After Athens became the capital of the new Greek State, the Madrasa became a prison, and a large portion of it was destroyed in 1914 to allow for archeological excavations. Currently it appears to be an archeological storage area. portes magazine | fall 2014

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Greek Braised Rabbit with Hilopites

BY MAGDA

portes magazine | fall 2014

*Yield: 6 servings 1½ kg whole fresh rabbit (liver & kidneys included) cut it into 7 pieces 120 ml olive oil Salt to taste Freshly ground black pepper 3 onions, grated 4 garlic cloves, minced 12 dried prunes, pitted 400 g whole tomatoes, chopped 1 heaped tbsp. tomato paste 2 dried bay leaves 2 fresh rosemary sprigs 5 fresh sage leaves, chopped 1 cinnamon stick 300 ml dry fruity red wine 130 ml hot water 700 g Greek hilopites pasta (or tagliatelle) 100 g butter 200 g hard Greek Mizithra, Kefalotyri cheese (or Parmesan), grated Special equipment: grater, colander & large wide pan that can fit the rabbit pieces in one layer.

How to make it: For the rabbit: Pat well the rabbit pieces with paper towels and season them with salt and pepper. Leave the liver and kidneys in the fridge for the time being. In a large and wide, heavy-bottomed pan (preferably a Dutch oven), heat the olive oil over medium heat and brown the rabbit pieces in batches until golden-brown. Don’t overcrowd the pan or the rabbit will not brown, but stew.

Remove them from the pan and add the grated onions. Sauté them until they take on a golden color and add the garlic. Fry for 1 minute and then add the dried prunes, the tomato and tomato paste, bay leaves, rosemary, sage and cinnamon stick and stir well with a wooden spoon.

Add the rabbit pieces to the pan, pour over the wine and hot water and stir. Add some salt and pepper and bring to the boil. Put the lid on the pan, turn heat down to low and simmer for 1½ to 2 hours or until the rabbit is tender, turning the rabbit over every half hour or so.

In the meantime, take the liver and kidneys of the rabbit out of the fridge and clean them. The liver has several small parts that are connected with a central whitish nerve.

Cut it off with a knife and separate the small parts of the liver. The kidneys, as long as the rabbit was healthy and well-fed, will have a fair amount of fat surrounding them.

Remove the fat with your fingers. Half an hour before the rabbit is done, add the liver parts and kidneys (cut in half) to the pan.

After 1½ hours, check the rabbit and taste the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if needed. In the end you should have rabbit meat that is tender and melt-in-the-mouth, with a rich and thick sauce. Once cooked, remove the pan from the heat and allow it to stand for 10 minutes before serving with the pasta.

For the pasta: While the rabbit is cooking, prepare the pasta. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil over high heat and add the hilopites (or tagliatelle). Cook until al dente (firm but not very hard) or cook to your liking. Keep in mind that if you use Greek hilopites they will cook rather fast, as they are thin.

Drain the pasta in a colander, discarding the water. Melt the butter in the pot over medium-high heat and when it starts to foam, return the pasta to the pot. Turn off the heat and quickly stir the pasta around so that it gets coated with the butter. Serve immediately, dividing the pasta between dishes. Top with the rabbit, adding a generous amount of sauce. Sprinkle with lots of grated kefalotyri, myzithra, or parmesan cheese. Enjoy!

CUISINE

What you’ll need:

cooking with Magda of My Little Expat Kitchen Magda is an expatriate from Athens living in The Hague, Netherlands for the past seven years. She loves food and has a passion for cooking. She also loves the creativity it entails and the effect it has on people, especially after seeing the huge smiles on peoples’ faces when they taste something she’s cooked for them She started her blog My Little Expat Kitchen to share recipes and stories about food (and beyond) with the world. She writes her blog in English and in Greek, and photographs her dishes herself!

For more tasty creations, visit mylittleexpatkitchen.blogspot.com & greekmylittleexpatkitchen.blogspot.nl. portes magazine | fall 2014

29 27

Tomato Galette with Spelt Pastry

BY MAGDA

What you’ll need: *Yield: 6 pieces For the pastry dough: 250 g white spelt flour 140 g unsalted butter, cold & cut into small cubes Pinch of salt 1 large egg yolk 1-2 tbsp. cold water For the sun-dried tomato paste: 15 sun-dried tomatoes (not in oil / if you use tomatoes in oil, omit the 3 tbsp. olive oil from the paste recipe 2 garlic cloves

1 fresh red chilli, sliced ½ tsp. demerara or raw cane sugar 1 tsp. salt 3 tbsp. olive oil For the filling: 2 fresh tomatoes sliced ¼ tsp. dried oregano 2-3 fresh thyme sprigs Olive oil for drizzling Other: 1 egg, beaten with a fork, for glazing the dough Burrata cheese to serve

How to make it: For the pastry dough: In a large food processor, add the flour, cold cubed butter and salt and process for a few seconds until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs.

Add the egg yolk and 1 to 2 tbsp. of cold water and process the mixture into a dough that holds together in large chunks. Don’t over-mix. Add 1 tbsp. of water to start, and see from there whether it needs more.

You don’t want the dough to be wet.

Empty the dough onto a large piece of plastic wrap. Form the dough into a disk shape, cover it, and place it in the refrigerator for 1½ hours.

Later, remove the dough, unwrap it, and place it between two large sheets of baking paper. Using a rolling pin, roll out the dough into an approximately 30 cm wide circle.

It should be somewhat pliable but still a little stiff. If it tends to break apart when you roll it out, let it warm a bit then try again. Place the rolled out dough, along with the baking papers, in the refrigerator for another 30 minutes.

For the sun-dried tomato paste: In a small food processor, add all the ingredients for the paste and mix until the paste is slightly chunky. It portes magazine | fall 2014

shouldn’t be smooth, and if you are using sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil, you will probably not need to add extra olive oil.

For final preparation: Preheat your oven to 180°C / 360°F. Take the dough out of the refrigerator, remove the top baking paper and smear the paste evenly to cover the center of the dough, leaving about a 5 cm space around the edges of the pastry. Sprinkle with the dried oregano, arrange the fresh tomato slices on top, add a couple sprigs of thyme and drizzle a little olive oil over the tomato slices. Fold the edges of the dough up and over the filling, making sure to seal any cracks. Using a pastry brush, glaze the dough with the beaten egg.

Bake for about 35 minutes until the pastry takes on a golden-brown color.

When finished: Take the galette out of the oven, let to cool for 10 minutes and drizzle the filling with a little olive oil. Serve with Burrata cheese sprinkled with black pepper.

You can keep the galette for a day or two, covered, at room temperature, but it is best eaten the same day.

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31

Dried Fruit & Nut Chocolate Fudge Squares

BY IOANNA STAMOULOU

sweet-making with

Ioanna Stamoulou of Sweetly.gr

What you’ll need: * Yield: 80 pieces For the chocolate: 500 g chocolate 1 tbsp. honey 500 ml cream 250 g chocolate cookies 2 – 3 tbsp. rum or liquor of choice (cognac, whiskey, etc.)

For the topping: 70 g nuts mix (sunflower seeds, cashews, pistachios, almonds, hazelnuts.) dried cranberries cocoa powder

How to make it: In preparation, cover the base of a pan in wax paper or plastic wrap (going up on the edges as well.) Chop chocolate and place in bowl.

Bring the cream to boil and pour over the chocolate. After a minute or so, start mixing the two with a spatula until the chocolate has melted. Mix in honey.

Grind cookies well in blender. Add the fine cookie crumbs to the chocolate mixture. Add liquor and mix well together. Empty chocolate mix into pan and let cool a little. Then sprinkle nuts and cranberries, pressing gently to stick to the chocolate mix. Refrigerate overnight or for a few hours until firm.

Once cooled, remove chocolate block from pan and slice in squares with a sharp knife.

Dust with a little cocoa powder and these chocolate sensations are ready to serve!

ne’s i z a g a M s e t r o P “From Greece, with LO V

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get them at portesmagazine.com 33

Photos courtesy of P. Latsoudis | WWF Greece

portes magazine | fall 2014

ECOLOGY

Cervus elaphus THE RED DEER OF GREECE

BY ANTHE MITRAKOS

{Known as the sacred animal of Artemis, the ancient Greek goddess of the hunt and wilderness, the Red Deer has been historically celebrated in Greece. But several factors of modern human intervention have dramatically reduced the population of Greece’s largest herbivore over time. Portes Magazine speaks with Dr. Panagiota Maragou, coordinator of scientific support and documentation at the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Greece, about the challenges of preserving this critically endangered species and the recent conservation efforts that aim to stabilize the Red Deer population.} portes magazine | fall 2014

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O

ne of the largest species of deer, and the largest herbivore in all of Greece, the Red Deer, known by its scientific name as the Cervus elaphus, is an inextricable part of Greek nature.

In Greece, the greatest Red Deer population inhabits the Mount Parnitha National Park, part of the largest of four mountains surrounding Athens. Though the area suffered widespread damage from forest fires back in 2007, the flora of Mount Parnitha is still one of the richest in Greece today. In fact, it hosts over 1,000 plant species, some 100 of which are rare and endemic to Greece. The area is naturally also home to 132 bird species, 25 mammal species, and 30 reptile species, according to the WWF. Like all deer, the Red Deer are herbivores, feeding on twigs, seeds, fruits, herbs, and mushrooms in the wild, and naturally prefer dwelling in areas near freshwater streams.

Living on Mount Parnitha all year round, the Red Deer in the wintertime migrate to the lower altitude areas in search of food, and in the autumn during the breeding season, adult males called stags can be heard calling females.

Stags grow branched antlers spanning a meter in height, with up to a dozen points.

Despite what the average person may believe, antler size does not correspond with the stag’s age since they grow in the springtime and shed in the winter. When they reach maturity at about two to three years of age, males acquire a harem of some eight to ten females, who usually give birth to one offspring every spring.

Baby Red Deer are born with characteristic white dots that disappear as they grow older.

Present in Greece since prehistoric times, the Red Deer plays a significant role in the country’s biodiversity and ecosystem, but in recent years, populations in the country have declined so much the species is now considered a critically endangered one, according to The portes magazine | fall 2014

Red Data Book of Threatened Animals of Greece. About 1,300 individuals are estimated to live in Greece, with the greatest population inhabiting Mount Parnitha, and smaller groups living in the Rhodope and Epirus areas.

The Red Deer population in Albania is thought to be extinct, while only a few hundred individuals remain in FYROM. The species is listed as vulnerable in Serbia, and near-threatened in Sweden, but elsewhere across Europe, the Red Deer is actually expanding its range, according to the WWF, and thus, the threat of complete extinction is low.

Other types of deer, including the Fallow Deer (Dama dama) and the Roe Deer (Capreolus capreolus) also co-exist in Greece.

As with most animals, one of the deer’s greatest threat is human activity. Illegal hunting, known as poaching, and loss of natural habitat have nowadays forced the deer to reside in isolated patches.

“Habitat deterioration [and fragmentation] as a result of intensified agriculture, settlement expansion, and disturbance, are threats that curtail the possibility of the remaining isolated deer populations to expand to new areas,” Dr. Maragou says.

Because the deer populate areas also inhabited by humans, certain clashes are bound to occur from time to time, Dr. Maragou explains.

“Even though the largest numbers are recorded in areas away from human presence and disturbance, proximity to people brings problems,” she says. “The Red Deer are actually wild animals, and

accidents have occurred with people thinking that they are domesticated.”

Road accidents and significant damage to agricultural production in nearby villages on Mount Parnitha are two more reasons the Red Deer may be considered more of a pest to some.

“There are a lot of relevant complaints since the slopes of Parnitha are agricultural areas as well,” Dr. Maragou notes.

But these docile creatures are only trying to survive in the best way they know how. In an effort to conserve the Greek Red Deer population, monitoring, research, and

“

will be informed in advance and will welcome the idea of the deer relocation,” she says. “Therefore, raising awareness is necessary, particularly among the inhabitants, hunters, and visitors of areas where new subpopulations could be developed. Relocation should not be done near agricultural areas so as not to risk conflicts with established human activities,” she adds.

Once a new natural haven is designated, the next step in the relocation process would be to carefully select a number of individual deer, taking into consideration sex-ratio and age classes, among other things.

“You cannot just pick up and move some animals and hope that they will establish a new flourishing population,” Dr. Maragou says. “You also have to consider and decide on how many animals you can actually remove from an area - Parnitha in our case - without hurting the existing population.”

In nature, the Red Deer itself provides a balance to Greece’s ecosystem, especially nowadays that free-range animal husbandry is gradually being abandoned as a practice.

As natural grazers, deer have always played a significant role in maintaining nature’s mosaic of vegetation, as well as retaining forest openings. As sizeable herbivores, they also serve as a base of the food pyramid.

“Large raptors and vultures, which today are also threatened with extinction, could rely on the existence of deer to survive,” Dr. Maragou explains.

“After all, biodiversity is nothing but a web of inextricably connected links.”

You cannot just pick up and move some animals and hope that they will establish a new flourishing population.

“

environmental educational activities are being undertaken by various groups including the WWF Greece and Arcturos Environmental Center.

Fostering the remaining Greek population to expand in the future would ideally require redistribution of smaller populations to suitable meadow-filled, mixed deciduous, and conifer tree habitats around the country. The selection of a relocation area, however, is not the most crucial factor in ensuring the success of such a program, Dr. Maragou explains.

“What is important is to be able to select an area where local communities

portes magazine | summer 2014

37

GLORIOUS

Naxos

BY GEORGIOS GLINOS

{Lush green valleys, pristine waters, a mystical ancient atmosphere, unique villages, and rich local traditions characterize Naxos - the largest of the Cycladic islands. Its trademark Portara, a towering marble gate that was part of an unfinished Temple of Apollo, sets the tone for one of the most enchanting sunset views in all of Greece.}

Photo by Eirini Papadaki

portes magazine | fall 2014

The history of Naxos stretches as far back as mythology will allow. According to the ancient Greeks, Zeus himself was raised in a cave on the slopes of the island’s Mount Zas, the highest peak in all of the Cyclades – stretching about 1,000 meters in height. It was at the top of this mountain where an eagle surrendered the power of thunder to the King of Gods, granting him rule over Olympus.

A bit later, during the Heroic Age prior to the Trojan War, the mythological hero Theseus is said to have abandoned princess Ariadne of Crete on the island, after she helped him defeat the Minotaur and escape from the Minoan Labyrinth. As fate had it, Dionysus, the god of wine, festivities, and merrymaking, as well as the protector of Naxos, fell in love with Ariadne himself.

Beyond mythological mentions, the cave on Mount Zas was actually inhabited during the Neolithic Era. It was there that Greeks also first discovered the rare mineral known as emery, or smyrida in Greek, whose trade later became an important facet of both the Naxian and general Greek economies. Production of emery peaked at a rate of 22,000 tons a year in the early 1920s, but gradually declined after 1940. Hundreds of small abandoned emery mines dot the slopes of Mount Amomaxis on the island’s northeastern part. Dating back to the Bronze Age, these mines once supported the Smyridochoria, or emery villages including Apeiranthos, Danakos, Keramoti, Skado, Messi, and Koronos, whose mines today operate as museums deifinetly worth a visit.

In the Classical Era, Naxos dominated commerce in the Cyclades, as evidenced in the writings of Herodotus, who around 500 B.C. described Naxos as the region’s most prosperous island. Centuries later, in the aftermath of the Fourth Crusade in the early 13th century, the Venetian conqueror Marco Sanudo took over Naxos and soon captured the rest of the Cycladic islands with little resistance. Naxos then became the seat of Sanudo’s realm, as well as his most cherished island, which he ruled as Duke of Naxos, or Duke of the Archipelago.

Twenty-one foreign dukes and two dynasties ruled the Archipelago thereafter, and Venetian rule continued in scattered islands of the Aegean until 1714.

Even when the Byzantine Empire fell to the Ottomans in 1492, the Venetians maintained control over Naxos for several decades thereafter. Very few Ottomans ever settled there, thus leaving a limited influence, both architecturally and culturally, on the island. With the great War of Independence of 1821, Ottoman control over the Cycladic islands ceased, and by 1832, Naxos was free from foreign rule, officially joining the Greek State.

DESTINATIONS

history

We asked fans to send us their best island shots of Naxos.

Following are the winners of the Portes Magazine Naxos Photo Contest.

Enjoy!

portes magazine | fall 2014

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portes magazine | fall 2014

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7 5

1. Mary Louizou 2. Marissa Tejada 3. Katerina Milona 4. Katerina Kottaki

5. Frank Kotsos 6. Frank Kotsos 7. Maria Tsakoniati 8. Lucia Princikova

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8

portes magazine | fall 2014

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villages & ports The Chora is both the island’s main port and town.

As one approaches by ferry, they are immediately greeted by historical Naxos landmarks. Among them, the Castle of Naxos, or kastro, situated at Chora’s peak is really a compilation of several hundred houses built into the formation of a fortress-like village originally constructed during Sanudo’s reign. At the very top of the castle next to the entrance of the Grand Gate, or Trani Pyli, stands the Tower Della Rocca Barozzi, owned for centuries by a prominent family of Venetian origin. Today, the tower is still privately owned by the family’s descendants, and the very well-preserved household operates as a museum.

Just past the main port is the iconic ancient landmark of Naxos - the colossal Portara – a towering marble gate of an unfinished ancient temple built on the islet of Palatia.

Right behind the Portara to the north is the unusually weathered Grotta Hill, a great spot to stay at if one seeks to combine Aegean wilderness with proximity to the amenities, nightlife, and beauty of Chora.

Unlike other islands, where the chora is the only popular town, Naxos has a second capital in the central, mountainous region - that of Filoti. This region used to be not just the island’s agricultural center that still remains active, but also its main cultural center, up until tourists began to recently favor the shores. Formerly called Tragaia, named after the village by the same name, the area is now known as Chalki. The small, picturesque capital village of Chalki is strategically placed at the main crossroads of central Naxos. Its neoclassical mansions with large balconies, lush gardens, and tiled roofs stand out from the

1

From a thriving ancient civilization, to ambitious foreign crusaders and Venetian nobility, the inhabitants of Naxos have left historical marks on the island, many of which are still visible today.

2 Photo by Eirini Dimopoulou

portes magazine | fall 2014

typical Cycladic-style whitewashed architecture of the Chora. Nowadays, a stroll around its cobblestone streets, sprinkled with a few cafes, old shops, and galleries is truly like taking a walk through time.

Further up the slopes of Mount Zas, lies the marble village of Apeiranthos. Founded by a group of settlers from Crete, this village exudes a very distinct Cretan character, evident both in local traditions and village formation. Apeiranthos is also host to Panagia Apirathitissa, one of the oldest churches of Naxos, as well as number of museums including the Folk Art, Archeological, Geological, Visual Arts, and Natural History museums.

Halfway between Filoti and Apeiranthos, just after the footpath leading to the top of Mount Zas – an easy two-hour hike – is the village of Danakos, set amidst platanus trees.

Once past the traditional villages of Moni and Mesi, and through the emery-mining area of Koronos, one arrives at the northern port town of Apollonas. There, apart from the area’s picturesque beach and village, one can see the ancient marblecarving workshop, where many of the famed statues found on the island of Delos were built. Among the three unfinished ancient Kouros statues on the island, the most popular is the one dedicated to Dionysus. Located near Apollonas, this unfinished Kouros, measuring close to 11 meters in height, is horizontally carved into the mountainside. Visitors can climb up and around the ancient statue and marvel at how these giant marble creations were built from start to finish.

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1. Portes Magazine at the Portara 2. Erika Silberbauer 3. Spyros Karampatzis portes magazine | fall 2014

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portes magazine | fall 2014

1. Dimitria Ioannidou 2. Berber Hogendorp 3. Zuz Princikova 4. Spyros Karampatsis 5. Eleni Apostolopoulos

6. Rebecca Hall 7. Nikos Golfis 8. Michael Kyriakopoulos 9. Marissa Tejada 10. Lida Arnellou

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9 7

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portes magazine | fall 2014

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see & do Although lying on the beach like the Kouros - or better yet - soaking in the turquoise waters of Naxos is perfectly enjoyable, there are also numerous activities for the restless and those seeking a bit of adventure during their holiday on the island. Starting from the coastline, Naxos is one of the best spots for wind and kite surfing in Greece, with very well organized schools and facilities located along the Plaka shoreline near Chora, and at the more specialized Mikri Vigla, Kastraki, and Pirgaki beaches. There is also a diving center in Chora, and many chartered boats offer daytrip sailing to nearby islands where one can spot secluded beaches, and perhaps even some dolphins along the way.

Touring, combined with hourly or day-long hikes around the villages of central Naxos, is also sure to keep visitors busy for as many hours as they’d like to invest. In the heart of Chalki, there also exists the famous Vallindras family Kitron Distillery. A piece of history in itself, the distillery still operates today, producing the traditional liqueur of Naxos from the leaves of a sizeable citrus fruit. Worth visiting is also the nearby village of Kaloxylos, inhabited nowadays only in the summer. Throughout central Naxos, visitors will also spot several Byzantine-era churches - some of which date back to the times of the Iconoclasm. Unlike most Byzantine churches, these are not decorated with iconic frescoes, but rather depict images of plants and geometric shapes, a clear reminder of a contentious religious history at that time.

North of the Chora, along the west coast towards Apollonas, we come across another interesting group of villages and beaches. The village of Engares makes for a great combination of agriculture, fine local food, and beautiful blue waterfront. There, Amitis beach is a favorite among locals, and a 30 meter Araucaria tree is one of the village’s main attractions.

Carnival celebrations all around Naxos are also particularly interesting because they stem from ancient Dionysian festivals. The festivals take place in January and February around the same that the ancient fĂŞte of Anthesteria took place long ago.

Villages around the island celebrate with hearty feasts, traditional music, and costumed appearances including those of the koudounati - young men dressed in hoods and bells making celebratory sounds to welcome the springtime.

Photo by Eirini Dimopoulou

portes magazine | fall 2014

Galini Mpardani

dine & dip Being the largest of the Cycladic islands, the Naxos coastline spans 148 kilometers. But it is not just the number of beaches that will amaze visitors. The wonderful light-yellow coarse sand of Naxos, combined with the Aegean sun and crystal clear waters with underwater visibility of up to 40 meters, make for an amazing combination of light blue and gold hues. As for visitors with children, the St. George beach in Chora is quite popular because of its shallow and warmer waters.

But the most famous coastal stretch of the island is to the southwest of Chora. It starts at St. Prokopios beach, continuing onto St. Anna, and finishing at Plaka. This particular stretch, having the prominent summer meltemi, or Northwest wind, on its back while the sand dunes protect swimmers from it, is a hard-to-beat combination, not just for Naxos, but for all of the Cyclades. Other worthy beaches are Mikri Vigla, separated from Panagia Parthena beach by a spectacular, climbable monolith, and Pirgaki beach, protected by a cedar wood forest.

As one would expect, the combination of a large coastline and a fertile inland plateau make Naxos a treasure of locally sourced produce cooked in many unique ways. In fact, Naxos is nearly self-sustainable, producing excellent olive oil, fruits, wine, honey, potatoes, and other staple foods. Visitors can thus enjoy a range of the island’s culinary specialties, including rabbit and fish from the coast of Plaka, along with free-range beef, lamb, and goat from central Naxos.

The island is also much celebrated for its selection of traditional homemade cheeses including the arseniko, myzithra, xinomyzithra, anthotyro, kopanisti, ladotyri, manouri, and more.

These are just a few of the island’s many highlights.

The rest await to be discovered by avid travelers who wish to experience the history, charm, traditions, and cuisine of Naxos.

portes magazine | fall 2014

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*Photos by Portes Magazine & designer websites.

M A G A Z I N E in collaboration with:

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