2.2 Chao Phraya River

Chao Phraya River

Figure 6 Chao Phraya River Map source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Chaophrayarivermap.png#filelinks

In this chapter, I will investigate the multiple layers – physical configuration, politic, economic, culture, publicity, and privatisation - imposed and juxtaposed on the Chao Phraya River and its context, particularly in the Bangkok area, to reveal the complexity of the river and the city.

Chao Phraya River is a significant river in Thailand. The capitals in the past and the present kingdoms - Sukhothai (1238-1438), Ayutthaya (1351-1767), Thonburi (17681782), and Rattanakosin (1782-present) - are located along the river and has exploited and benefited primarily for the consumption, agriculture, and transportation (Figure 6). The river begins at the confluence of the Ping and Nan rivers in Nakhon Sawan province, a lower northern province. It flows south to Bangkok and the Gulf of Thailand.

Initially, the Chao Phraya River in the Bangkok area was curve and devious. This configuration obstructed and delayed the sailing from Ayutthaya to the Gulf of Thailand, or back and forth. Consequently, King Chairachathirat’s (1534-1546) ordered the construction of many Khlongs (canals) to shortcut the river. In 1542, the construction of “Klong Lat Bangkok” was completed. The

water started mainly flowing through the shortened way. The shortcut canal had become more extensive and deeper and eventually became the main part of the Chao Phraya River. The old course of the river, on the other hand, gradually had been narrower and shallower and became parts of Khlong Bangkok Noi and Khlong Bangkok Yai (Figure 7). This river transformation created a small island on the river's west bank, which would be established as the capital of the next kingdom (Thonburi, 1768-1782) 200 years later.

Figure 7 The Original Course of the River and Shortcut Canals source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Chaophrayashortcut.jpg

Canal Layer

The Historical and Social Context Relations

Bangkok is a floodplain area; many canals have already existed since before it was established as the capital. In the early period, people had settled along with the waterways for agricultural purposes and as a transportation network. The canal's part cutting through the land shapes the city's form separated into two sides of the canal, which eventually becomes the river. Inarguably, canals have played a vital role in the city's morphology since the early settlement period, but still in the present, even though slowly declined.

When Bangkok became the significant port city of the former kingdom and eventually a capital, canals had been created to be natural boundaries before the fortresses. In the initial Rattanakosin period, the replication of Ayutthaya city's pattern to use waterways as protecting elements from the enemies had influenced the creation of 'Khlongs' (mean canal in Thai) such as Khlong Rob Krung (1771) – primary ring, Khlong Bang Lamphu- Khlong Oong Aang (1783) –secondary ring and Khlong Phadung Krungkasem (1851) – thirdly ring. From the map of Bangkok in 1896 (Figure), the urban fabric was mainly situated inside the secondary ring's fortresses; some expansion of royal family houses, temples, and the foreign community had grown outside. For example, Wang Mai (new palace in Thai), which has become the district name after its demolition, and Sra Pathum (royal farmland - later a significant palace) had been built to align with Klong Saen Saeb and Rama I road on the eastern side, outside the third ring (Khlong Phadung Krungsasem). Later, during the Westernisation period, Dusit

Figure 8 Map of Bangkok and Thonburi 1966 by CALTEX Palace (European style palace with gardens) linked to the Grand Palace with Ratchadamnoen Avenue created with the concept of European boulevards had been constructed in the northern area embraced by Khlong Samsen and Khlong Prem Prachakon linking to the northern provinces. In this sense, the waterway as Khlong was still the indispensable factor when the palace was built.

Moreover, Hua Lamphong Station, the Thai oldest railway station (1915), had been constructed outside Khlong Phadung Krungsasem, the third ring, the edge of the city at the time. The station was designed to align with the canal and be braced on the north and south sides with Rama I and Rama IV roads. The other main rail stations were also built to align with the canal ways; for example, Bang Sue Station on the north side was next to Khlong Bang Sue, Makkasan Station on the east side was aligned with Khlong Saen Saeb and Khlong Samsen Nai, and Mea Nam Railway Station in Khlong Toei district adjacent to Port Authority of Thailand was aligned with the Chao Phraya River and next to Khlong Wat Chong Lom. The location of the railway station was interconnected to Khlong because of the agricultural product transportation purpose, which was the leading economy of Thailand until the end of the 20th century. In addition, Hua Lamphong station and Makkasan station, both of which are the intersections of roads, railways, metro, and canal boats, will be converted to be a new revitalisation project in the future according to the government’s plan.

From the map of Bangkok and Thonburi in 1966 (by CALTEX, Figure 8), all of the large green spaces shown in the map are linked to the canals, for example, Lumpini Park (1925), the first public park in Thailand, have connected to Khlong Sathon, Klong Pai Singhto, and small waterway dug to connect with Khlong Saen Saeb. The Dusit Zoo and Royal Turf Club of Thailand under the Royal Patronage are also attached to Khlong Samsem and Khlong Prem Prachakon. Even the park created in the 21st century, like Benchakitti Park, the further east side of Lumpini Park, is also accompanying by Khlong Pai Singhto. However, the relationship between major public parks and Khlong has been hidden by roads and elevated ways; the links of Lumpini park to Khlong Sathon and Khlong Pai Singhto are coved by Sathon road, and the elevated walking track bridged to the Benchakitti Park. Although many parks are linked to canals, no public park can access any Khlong transportation.

Canal Transportation

At present, some Khlongs are still operating as transportation routes such as Khlong Bangkok Noi, Khlong Bangkok Yai, and Khlong Saen Saeb. From the transportation for soldiers and weapons to a boat service for 60,000 passengers a day, Khlong Saen Saeb is a significant artery transport route running through the heart of the city. It starts from Khlong Phadung Krungskasem (the third ring of Rattakosin Island) to the east for around 72 km to meet with Bang Pakong River in Chachoengsao province. People can travel from the old city area to the central business area or back and forth without traffic; passengers can change to other mass transit in the business district, luxury housing area, and entertaining high-end areas. Nevertheless, this transportation mainly serves the working class in the society who travel from the old city or the further eastern side of the city to the central area. The travel experience illustrates a backstage of Bangkok; most buildings turn their back to the canals, only some communities or temples existing before the industrial period still face the canal.

Figure 9 Map of Bangkok, 1896 by Royal Survey Department