PHASHION

ISSUE 1 LIFE CONTENTS 5 COLOUR BLOCKING A conceptual look into the metamorphosis of a butterfly

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ALEXZANDRA CLEAL

A celebration of life through colour

by MUA Alexzandra Cleal

25 SUITING

A look at male tailoring and the evolution of humans into the wild

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ELEMENTS OF LIFE AND DEATH

Where wind, fire, earth and air meet life is lived and death is inevitable.

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ALARA ORBAY

Look into the whirling dervish and nature inspired capsule collection by designer Alara Orbay.

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ELEGANT AND EFFLORESCENT

Creative look into lives greatest accessory, nature.

PHASHION ACKNOWLEDGES

Personal friend of 6 years and talented young designer, Christopher Jaydon, has produced a great collection of work which has been photographed for the magazine, as well as bringing unique ideas to shoot and keeping me inspired and engaged throughout the whole project.

Make-up artist and hair stylist Alexzandra Cleal has produced multiple looks for the magazine with a creative eye and unique, messy and effortless style.

She brought a new take to editorials she worked on and has been a pleasure to work with and have on set.

Istanbul born graduate designer, Alara Orbay has produced a beautifully sophisticated collection inspired by the whirling dervish embellished with floral prints on effortlessly draped silk shown (page‌) Her straight talking and well planned attitude brought a moments peace to the craziness that has been producing PHASHION.

Flawless in looks and endless in talent Kiri Taylor Bennet has helped endless times throughout the process in modelling and producing original makeup ideas when needed to step up. Her versatile looks have helped to produce multiple unique images in the magazine.

Special thank you to the Southampton based make-up artist Francesca Bartha who has played a huge role in makeup throughout the magazine as well as her own shoots. It would not have been possible without her! Frans Avant guard style and perfect colour blending have given every shoot she has been involved in a professional and sophisticated edge.

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ISSUE 1 DEATH CONTENTS

55 FLORAL DECAY

Floral accessories bring a new lease of life to beauty

contents

69 LIFE AND DEATH

Thought provoking poem by Alex Lewis depicted editorially.

73 GLAMOURIZING DEATH

Golden bones and Amazonian glamour combined explore death in Conceptual editorial

81 FRANCESCA BARTHA

MUA Francesca Bartha depicts beetle juice characters through fashion portraits and creative makeup

91 MAD FOR MONOCHROME

Multitudes of monochrome make for scenes of madness.

93 CHRISTOPHER JAYDON

“I’ve got a bad habit” Death, decay and denim meet for a religious design experience.

EDITORS LETTER

Welcome to the new faces of PHASHION…

“Life and death are one thread, the same line viewed from different sides.”

-Lao Tzu

Having always been fascinated with the connection between life and death it seemed like a fitting subject to base the first issue of PHASHION on. When we talk about life and death a clear divide is often made, but why do we regard life as being something so separated from death? In this issue the themes of life versus death is going to be explored both literally and contextually to decipher where the two meet and how in fact they are not separate at all but intertwine in our everyday life; through our surroundings, personal lives past, future and present.

This issue will explore not only my views but that of other up-and-coming creatives featured through interviews and creative interpretations on how they view the subject.

My personal aspirations have always been in the worlds of both fashion and photography. PHASHION has been a personal project I have wanted to create for a long time, a place to provide a platform for the two subjects to mix amidst a burst of new ideas and talents. In this issue PHASHION looks at the work of new designers, makeup artists, hair stylists and my own personal take on life vs death.

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PHASHION ISSUE 1 COVERS

MODEL: SAMANTHA WELLER Image taken from floral decay shoot depicting the decay of a flower through fashion imagery

MODEL: KIRI TAYLOR BENNETT Image taken from elements of life and death air shoot

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MODEL: SALLY GRANE MUA: FRANCESCA BARTH Behind the scenes makeup being touched up from designer Christopher Jaydon shoot.

MODEL: SARAH HOLLAND Image behind the scenes at Elegant and efflorescent shoot.

MODEL: VARENKA SALAZAR GUILLERMOPRIETO Image behind the scenes at skeletal allure shoot portraying glamorisation beyond the grave.

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A VIVID METAMORPHOSIS

butterfly trend

MODEL: Ellisha White Styling: Wyatt Harris Photography: Wyatt Harris MUA: Francesca Bartha Alexzandra Cleal HAIR STYLING: Alexzandra Cleal

d editorial

SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f10, 1/100sec

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f10, 1/100sec

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f10, 1/125sec

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ALEXZANDRA CLEAL A celebration of life.

QUICK-FIRE Full name - Alexzandra Cleal D.O.B - 4th November 1990 Favourite colour? - Orange How would prefer to die? - In my sleep What do you think happens after death? - You live another life! I believe I’ve lived many other lives that I am unaware of. if you could be reincarnated, what would you be ? A bird, so I could see the world for free What are your main goals in life? To be successful, and live comfortably Burn fast and bright or live forever? To live forever would be sad, I couldnt watch everyone I love pass away, so burn fast Five things to do before your die? - jump out a plane, own a mini cooper, go to America (Disney land and new york for shopping), be covered in tattoos and be a mum to a big family.

Money or happiness? - happiness Favourite film? - This is a very hard question, Dirty Dancing. No one puts baby in the corner.

What is your philosophy or motto in life? - To keep going, every hurdle is achievable one way or another!

What is the one thing you’d most like to change about the world? Religion! Without religion there would be no war!

If happiness was the national currency, what kind of work would make you rich? Eating Mexican food.

What is the difference between being alive and truly living? You take being ‘alive’ for granted until you faced with death, until you have felt that emotion, you never truly live!

If you knew that everyone you know was going to die tomorrow, who would you visit today? My mum, dad and brother, but I would take lee with me =] What’s the best piece of advice u have ever been given? That everything ‘all becomes history’ in the words of my Grandad– in other words don’t hold grudges, don’t be stressed and live life because everything becomes your past and every day is a new day, don’t hold on to shit you don’t need to!

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MODEL: Kiri Taylor Bennett MUA: Alexzandra Cleal HAIR STYLING: Alexzandra Cleal STYLING: Wyatt Harris PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris

When did your first know you wanted to be a MUA? Not that long ago, probably in my last year of college. I’ve always been creative, it was just finding the right pathway to express that.

Do you think an education in fashion has helped prepare your for the industry?

There are people that do one week courses to be a MUA, so going to uni probably isn’t that vital to becoming a make-up artist. Uni has helped me build a huge portfolio, skills, contacts and most important of all real life experience though.

What’s been your most exciting fashion moment so far?

My whole three year experience has all been exciting it would be hard to pick one moment, I’ve done so many different things that has been exciting in different ways, But I’m the head MUA for Southampton fashion week show.

Which MUA do you most admire?

Cliché I know but Alex Box, she’s amazing and so skilled, I can’t fault her in any way. I hope to be as good as her…one day!

How would you describe your personal style?

MESSY I work best when things are thrown together, I would also describe my signature work as colourful! I LOVE COLOUR!!

Who would be your dream person to work on?

Cara Delevingne, you know it would be dull or quiet on set when she’s around, she seems fun, and that’s what you need when you’re doing a long day, and she’s also gorgeous!

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What’s your favourite part of the process?

The final outcome, seeing the final edited pictures is I feel most satisfied What are your biggest inspirations in your work?

Vivienne Westwood I love her messy, effortless makeup work, my style to a T! What’s your favourite look you have done and why?

The ‘flower head’ shoot with Sarah Holland, I received such amazing feedback from the final image, it was weird, distorted and creative. I loved the impact the image has just on its own!

What are your plans for the future?

I don’t have any plans set in stone, but I have been offered a job to tour with a up-and-coming singing artist in Japan for 6 months this summer, If I don’t take her up on that I will freelance until I find exactly where I want to be, all I know is that I want to be a part of the Make-up artistry fashion world!

What products do you most enjoy working with?

Paint and gold/silver leaf or liquid metal, they both give a powerful finish to a look.

Your most essential piece of kit? paint! You can use it for lips, eyes or contouring.

How would you best describe your aesthetic?

Bright, colourful and artistic.

What is your ultimate career goal?

To be successful. I hope to be able to a lot later in life to be successful enough to spend the end of my career just teaching others, maybe have my own make-up school similar to Illamasqua.

alex images

MODEL: Adam Hellyer MUA: Francesca Bartha HAIR: Wyatt Harris STYLING: Wyatt Harris PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris

SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f10, 1/125sec

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MODEL: Kiri Taylor Bennett MUA: Francesca Bartha STYLING: Wyatt Harris PHOTOGRAPHY Wyatt Harris HAIR: Wyatt Harris

ELEMENTS OF LIFE AND DEATH

SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f14, 1/125sec

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EARTH

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AIR

FIRE

SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 400, f10, 1/125sec

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 400, f5.0, 1/100sec

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WATER

water

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f6.0, 1/125sec

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f9.0, 1/125sec

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f11.0, 1/125sec

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QUICK-FIRE Full name ? Alara Orbay D.O.B? 03.06.1991 Favourite colour? Black How would prefer to die? I would prefer to not die at all.

What do you think happens after death? we are surrounded by little elfs.

If you could be reincarnated, what would you be ? an elf.

What are your main goals in life? to become a success in the fashion industry Burn fast and bright or live forever? live forever Five things to do before your die ? Create a famous fashion line, visit Cuba, Buils animal shelters around the world, Punch my ex in the face and get another few tattoos if you could be an animal what would it be ? a horse money or happiness? money Favourite flower? orchids Favourite designer? Hussein Chalayan What’s your philosophy or motto in life? Life is a great big canvas, and you should throw all the paint on it you can.

What is the one thing you’d most like to change about the world?

Poverty if happiness was the national currency, what kind of work would make you rich? Helping animals if the average human life span was 40 years, how would you live your life differently? I would try to do everything I want to achieve in life all at once.

What is the difference between being alive and truly living? The difference is what you achieve in life, and where you want to get to.

Everyone dies but not everybody lives If you knew that everyone you know was going to die tomorrow, who would you visit today? My parents and my dog What’s the best piece of advice you have ever been given? Trust no one.

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What are your biggest inspirations in your work?

My surroundings, background and culture.

What’s your favourite piece you have made and why?

Probably my final collection because I put in a lot of work and I think it really shows the outcome of the past four years, and the skills that I have learnt.

What are your plans for the future?

My plans are to move to Milan or London and get a job in the industry or do a few internships here and there Your final collection features a lot of silk fabrics, is this something u always work with ?

Not at all, but I do love working with it, though it can be a bit of a struggle.

How would you best describe your design aesthetic?

Minimalist, elegant and sexy What is your ultimate career goal?

My ultimate career goal is to have my own fashion label and be famous around the whole wide world

When did your first know you wanted to be a designer?

In my last year of high school to be honest. Up until then I was always interested in studying fine arts.

Do you think an education in fashion has helped prepare your for the industry?

Definitely it has given me a lot of new skills that I never knew that I even had before.

What’s been your most exciting fashion moment so far?

Doing an internship in Istanbul for a very famous fashion company called Derishow.

Which designers do you admire?

I love Hussein Chalayan’s work though it’s more art than fashion to be honest. And Rick Owens, I just love everything he does!

How would you describe your personal style?

My personal style is sometimes plain, sometimes sexy and sometimes funky, really depends on my mood.

Who would be your dream person to dress?

Megan Fox, she has an amazing body.

What’s your favourite part of the design process?

Finding my inspiration, going out there and getting inspired by everything and anything I see

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MODEL: Wura Docemo DESIGNER AND STYLIST: Alara Orbay MUA: Francesca Bartha PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris

MODEL: Sally Grane STYLING: Wyatt Harris MUA: Francesca Bartha HAIR: Francesca Bartha : Wyatt Harris PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris

ELEGANT AND EFFLORESCENT

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f4.0, 1/80sec

MODEL: Samantha Weller STYLING: Wyatt Harris MUA: Francesca Bartha HAIR: Wyatt Harris PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris

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MODEL: Sarah Holland STYLING: Wyatt Harris MUA: Alexzandra Cleal HAIR: Alexzandra Cleal PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris

MODEL: Sally Grane STYLING: Wyatt Harris MUA: Francesca Bartha HAIR: Francesca Bartha : Wyatt Harris PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris ON FACING PAGE MODEL: Sarah Holland STYLING: Wyatt Harris MUA: Alexzandra Cleal HAIR: Alexzandra Cleal

SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f4.0, 1/80sec

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MODEL: Kiri Taylor Bennett STYLING: Wyatt Harris MUA: Francesca Bartha HAIR: Wyatt Harris PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris

FLORAL DECAY

SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS 500D with lens EF 18-55mm ISO 200, f13.0, 1/250sec

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS 500D with lens EF 18-55mm ISO 200, f8.0, 1/250sec

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f4.5, 1/80sec

MODEL: Samantha Weller STYLING: Wyatt Harris MUA: Francesca Bartha HAIR: Wyatt Harris PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f9.0, 1/125sec

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f9.0, 1/125sec

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Life was born when Death died Death to live had tried and tried, but Life arrived smiling with glee Death’s death had set Life free.

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Death’s funeral was a happy one, too bad that Death’s death will be undone.

I know one day Death will live, to Life will i not a funeral give 70

MODEL: Scarlet Jarvis STYLING: Wyatt Harris MUA: Alexzandra Cleal HAIR: Alexzandra Cleal PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris

Let tears fall when Life decides to die in death maybe Life won’t be so shy.

All we can do is hope and pray that Life will postpone that sorrowful day

and if that day will tomorrow come, Life’s life and Death’s death will (surely) come undone.

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SKELETAL ALLURE

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MODEL: Varenka Salazar Guillermoprieto MUA: Francesca Bartha BODY ART: Francesca Bartha HAIR: Wyatt Harris PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris

SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f5.6, 1/125sec

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f5.6, 1/125sec

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MUA: Francesca Bartha HAIR: Wyatt Harris PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris STYLING: Wyatt Harris MODELs: Adam Hellyer : Danielle Batey

FRANCESCA BARTHA Beetlejuice

CHARACTER: DEAD BARBARA MAITLAND DEAD ADAM MAITLAND

QUICK FIRE Full name - Francesca Bartha D.O.B - 04/02/1990 Favourite colour – Black but apparently that’s not classed as a colour, so Turquoise Favourite place to shop – love a little vintage rummage How would you prefer to die – death by pterodactyl! I’m not overly bothered as long as it doesn’t hurt too much.

What do you think happens after death – Peace If you could be reincarnated, what would you be – Somebody incredibly intelligent, just to see what it’s like What are your main goals in life- To remain happy Burn fast and bright or live forever – burn fast and bright Five things to do before your die – Bungee jump, Sky dive, Scuba dive in the Great Barrier Reef, ride on an elephant, hug a bear If you could be an animal what would it be – unicorn Money or happiness – happiness Favourite flower - Hibiscus What’s your philosophy or motto in life – Peace, love and purple dinosaurs?

What is the one thing you’d most like to change about the world I think everybody should wear a cape, life is that little bit better when you wear a cape If happiness was the national currency, what kind of work would make you rich? Professional bubble blower If the average human life span was 40 years, how would you live your life differently? Drink less, so I could drink past 22 What is the difference between being alive and truly living? I think that depends on the person, Make sure you chuck a few fun things in along the way and don’t take everything so seriously, go see and do things.

Best piece of advice you have ever been given? Make up related, you can never use enough powder. In life, laugh a lot and don’t take life so seriously.

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When did your first know u wanted to be a MUA? When I was backstage at a fashion show once and I just thought ‘yes, this is definitely what I want to do.’

Do you think an education in fashion has helped prepare your for the industry?

Yes, slightly more so as I was more interested in the TV & film industry before I came to Uni. What’s been your most exciting fashion moment so far?

I thoroughly enjoyed the first time I ever worked on proper models for catwalk in brick lane last year, and also most recently being one of the make-up artists to work on a shoot for Vogue, Turkey.

Which MUA do you admire?

Alex Box is obviously pretty swell.

How would you describe your personal style?

Franderful.

Who would be your dream person to work on?

A face is a face, I just love doing makeup.

What’s your favourite part of the process?

The final outcome What are your biggest inspirations in your work?

I think I am forever finding inspiration, your surroundings will always inspire you whether it was intentional or not.

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What’s your favourite look you have done and why?

I like doing make up looks that are a bit strange like the Illusion section in my magazine A Fine Mess.

What are your plans for the future?

I intend to move to London and try and wriggle my way inwards and upwards in the industry.

What products do you most enjoy working with?

I actually really like the GOSH primer, so soft. I also really like Clarins foundations they smell incredible as does YSL mascara.

Your most essential piece of kit?

It’s all pretty essential, I’d say powder was a main one also touche eclat concealer by YSL. How would you best describe your aesthetic?

Avant garde.

What is your ultimate career goal?

To become a successful make-up artist ideally based in London, with a fair amount of travelling.

Model - Adam Hellyer

CHARACTER:

ADAM MAITLAND

MODEL – Sarah Holland

CHARACTER: MISS ARGENTINA

SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 70-220mm ISO 200, f.8 0, 1/125sec

MODEL – Bronwyn Kyte

CHARACTER: LYDIA DEETZ

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MODEL – Danielle Batey

CHARACTER: BARBARA MAITLAND

MODELS – Adam Hellyer Danielle Batey

CHARACTER: DEAD BARBARA MAITLAND DEAD ADAM MAITLAND

SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 200, f.10, 1/125sec

CHARACTER: DELIA DEETZ

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MODEL: Samantha Weller MUA: Kiri Taylor Bennett STYLING: Wyatt Harris HAIR: Wyatt Harris PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris

CHRISTOPHER JAYDON I’ve got a bad habit

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Full name: Christopher Jaydon Winney D.O.B: 14/10/1987 Studied at: Colchester institute Favourite colour: Yellow, but in fashion, Black Favourite place to shop: Trendy highstreet stores/ charity shops Asos, H & M, Topman/Topshop How would you want to die: Overdose, because then i have control over when it happens What do you think happens after death: Well I believe in ghosts and spirits, so I am guessing something to do with that if you could be reincarnated, what would you be: Either a cat or a girl (because i always wanted to be a girl when i was younger, they get better choices in everything, plus they are prettier than boys) What are your main goals in life: To do my best, always be one step ahead, try not to dwell on the past and move forward Burn fast and bright or live forever: Live Forever Five things to do before your die: become a recognised designer at London fashion week, become rich and famous, have my own shop and studio, have an amazing team around me to reach these goals, Favourite flower: Rose, because they are still beautiful when dying, sometimes more beautiful Favourite film: The Craft

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when did your first know you wanted to be a designer? In my first year of college, I was on a design course and the students in the year above me all had an interest in fashion and their work always seemed to be more in depth than my class so I used to sneak into their class to do extra work Do you think an education in fashion has helped prepare your for the industry? I guess so in a way, I feel they could teach more in the subject about the industry as a career, but I guess that’s what work experience is for.

What’s been your most exciting fashion moment so far? When my main outfit for my graduate collection, was featured on the vogue website and the guardian.

Which designers do you admire? Marques Almeida, because they helped me realise my love for denim and Gareth Pugh, because everyone loves a gothic element.

How would u describe your personal style? Modern Grunge Who would be your dream person to dress? I was going to say Lady Gaga, I guess that may come across as cliché, maybe Taylor Momsen, she’s like a little gothic doll.

What’s your favourite part of the design process?

The actual sketching part because you can let your imagination run away with you… but also when I get to see my outfits on a model when it’s finished.

What are your biggest inspirations in your work? I am inspired by so many things, when mixed all together its hard to find the original inspirations, Although you probably cant tell by looking at my work, Francis Bacon and his portrayal of death in his paintings, Darkness, Fear, Decay, Gothic Fashion, Avant Garde, Religion and Music.

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What’s your favourite piece you have made and why? Probably my main outfit that was featured on vogue, when I first made it I despised it, but when I saw it on the model it came to life. I was so happy and proud of myself; I guess you could say my garments don’t always have hanger appeal.

What are your plans for the future? To be the next Alexander McQueen, too far fetched?? Maybe not to be the next A-MaQ, but something along those lines.

Why denim? It’s always been a part huge part of the fashion industry, it’s incredibly diverse whether it work wear, adult fashion pieces or young, fresh and wearable, for me it’s probably the most diverse fabric to manipulate.

You manipulate your fabrics a lot, what’s your favourite technique for doing this? Probably the fraying and shredding, its what adds to the drama of my clothing, but also the dying and printing aspect of my designs, because it adds a new dimension to denim.

Do you think it would work well on other fabrics and do you plan on making a move away from denim? I think it depends whether the fabric is woven like denim where the threads are thicker, but I can’t see why not, it may not be as dramatic or effective but it would probably be as cool. I will make a move away from denim at some point… but denim will always be a huge factor in my design aesthetic How would you best describe your design aesthetic? My design aesthetic would be best described as Edgy, Gothic, Dramatic, Deconstructed Grunge, may even come across as a bit sporty in some aspects of shape and silhouette. I would also say its pushing the boundaries in a style aspect, I see a lot of my work as mainly editorial, but it does also have commercial elements when styled and dialled down.

What is your ultimate career goal? To be a well deserved, well-established designer by the time I am 30. To be honest I don’t think I could see myself doing anything else.

SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 100, f4.0, 1/20sec

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MODEL: Sally Grane MUA: Francesca Bartha STYLING: Wyatt Harris HAIR: Francesca Bartha PHOTOGRAPHY: Wyatt Harris Designer: Christopher Jaydon

SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 100, f4.0, 1/20sec

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SHOOT DETAILS: Canon EOS550D with lens EF 24-105mm ISO 100, f4.0, 1/20sec

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