Street Rod Life Summer 2015 by Xceleration Media

WILD TIMES IN AUSTIN! LONESTAR ROUND UP

WEB

VIDEO

SOCIAL

LITTLE

DEUCE COUPES 3 DIFFERENT WAYS TO DO A ’32

TROY TREPANIER HOW HE GOT SO RAD

DETROIT AUTORAMA

WHO WON THE RIDLER

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WANT+NEED

PARTS YOU PARTS YOU

PUBLICATION OF XCELERATION MEDIA Vol. 1, No. 2

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MIXED BREED T-BIRD + COYOTE

HOW TO INSTALL PHANTOM IN-TANK FUEL PUMP

WHICH IS BEST FOR YOU? ROLLER OR FLAT TAPPET

Todd Ryden

tryden@xcelerationmedia.com

Rain or Shine I’ve been to two major outdoor car events this year; it rained and was overcast each day at one, while the other stayed dry during the show hours, yet had gray, threatening skies all day long. Go figure. One event definitely had a weaker turnout due to the forecast…it’s tough to drive four hours when the weather reports call for 95 percent chance of rain and thunderstorms all weekend, however I tip my hat to those who were there. Ghoulish clouds and weather were just not a big deal to many people who were still out there in their rods, many of which were highly detailed, sano-clean cars and trucks. How cool is that? I mean you’re a pretty hardcore rodder when you’re willing to bring out a freshly done vehicle out to a show and into pending storms? Especially an overthe-top, high-end, rod-of-the-year type contender? There were also a few restored muscle cars with correct paint markings and details like date coded glass and such. What does this prove? To me, this is a sign that more people than ever are enjoying their rods from the driver’s seat. Isn’t that why we build them in the first place? If you have a high-scoring, showroom-restoration quality build, how long will it take before you’re bored of rolling it on and off a trailer? A case in point is the feature on Justin Oney’s ’55 Chevy on page 34 of this issue. Oney’s Bel Air was restored to the highest level and scored nearly a 1,000 points (perfect) in the early ’90s. Today it still looks great, but now has a new attitude with a lower stance, Billet Specialties wheels, and a few thousand more miles on the odometer. There was a time when show cars were on trailers, but that’s all changed thanks to a number of events, such as About an hour after this photo was snapped a massive rain storm, the Hot Rod Magazine Power complete with hail, dropped down on the Austin Speed Shop open Tour. Power Tour challenged house. A little rain and wind is one thing, but hail is scary. (We didn’t hear any reports of damage to any vintage tin). rodders to build their cars to handle the long haul and thousands have joined in. There are now touring events that pit you with a number of other rodders who cruise together to different national events. There’s the Great Race that happens in June, the Race of Gentleman, the Hot Rod Hill Climb, the Woodward Dream Cruise, and loads of other events to get involved with. Another fun challenge to join that’s been going on at a number of shows is an autocross. If you’re parked at a show all weekend long, why wouldn’t you make a lap or two on the autocross? You’re there, it’s included in the show (most of the time) and you don’t need to go out there and set a record. These courses are generally pretty tight and keep your speed low so you don’t need a race car. Plus, I guarantee you’ll learn something about the way your car performs and handles. We’ve seen restored muscle cars, skinny white walled antiques, and even high-standing pickups make a lap or two — with big grins from the driver and passenger. Remember, the best view of any street rod is from the driver’s seat looking out over the hood. Get out there and drive ’em. SRL Todd Ryden tryden@xcelerationmedia.com

Staff Group Publisher Shawn Brereton Editorial Director

Todd Ryden

Senior Tech Editor

Jeff Smith

Tech Editor

Richard Holdener

Contributors Brandon Flannery Louis Kimery Manufacturers

Dan Hodgdon Barry Kluczyk

Advertising Dave Ferrato Brett Underwood

504.237.5027 704.896.1959

For advertising inquiries call 901.260.5910.

Production

Hailey Douglas

Art

Jason Wommack Zach Tibbett

Street Rod Life is published quarterly to promote the growth of street rodding as well as recognize the parts and services from participating manufacturers. The magazine consists of dedicated information from partner companies with the mission of disseminating unfiltered editorial on companies, products and services directly to street rodders and fans. Editorial content and advertisements for each issue can originate from partner companies participating in the magazine. Street Rod Life is a hybrid of content that was originally published at StreetRodLife.com and original content that was created for this quarterly print magazine. Magazine distribution occurs through direct distribution from parent company Xceleration Media, its partner companies, and marquee events throughout the year. Street Rod Life is a property of Xceleration Media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written consent from Xceleration Media. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.

Cover ON THE WILD TIMES IN

Russell Stephens ’32 Ford coupe with modern LS power.

WEB

VIDEO

AUSTIN! LONESTAR

ROUND UP

SOCIAL

LITTLE

DEUCE COU PES

3 DIFFEREN

T WAYS TO

DO A ’32

TROY TREPANIER HOW HE GOT SO RAD

DETROIT AUTORA

WHO WON THEMA RIDLER

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E.COM

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#StreetRodLife

PARTS YOU WANT+NE ED PARTS YOU

PUBLICATION OF XCELERATI ON MEDIA Vol. 1, No. 2

MIXED BREED T-BIRD + COYOTE

HOW TO INSTALL PHANTOM IN-TANK FUEL PUMP

WHICH IS BEST ROLLER OR FLATFOR YOU? TAPPET 5/13/15 11:11 AM

INSIDE... STREETRODLIFE.COM Vol. 1, No. 2

COVER STORY

MODERN CLASSIC Vintage deuce with LS power

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

14 DETROIT AUTORAMA 34 RESTORED RESTOMOD 42 2015 ROUNDUP 72 DIFFERENT DEUCES THE 82 POUNDING PAVEMENT IN POMONA

01 FIRE IT UP 04 RPM REPORT 06 DIGITAL DETOUR 07 SOCIAL BUZZ 08 ROD SHOT 10 VIDEO PLAYLIST

Rodders get a winter warm up A stock shoebox with attitude 48 wild hours in Austin

Two more ways to do a ’32

Pomona Street Machine Nationals

84 88 LEGENS HOT ROD SHOP HUMBLE HISTORY

Racing Head Services through the years One stop build shop

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

Roddin’ rain or shine Rodding updates

Cool links to share Socialize with SRL

What would you do?

Pretend you’re working

THE 12 INPASSENGER SEAT Steve Magnante loves axle cars

OF 80 LIFER THE MONTH

Ed Erhardt is making up for lost time

95 HIT THE ROAD

Where you need to be and when to be there

96 BEHIND THE DOOR Peer into Ed’s cool shop

Even more features, videos, & event coverage

@StreetRodLife.com

22 NO TYPICAL FARM TRUCK JEGS helps a ’59 GMC get LS power

64 SQUAREBIRD CUSTOM Crossbreeding a Coyote and a Bird

20 QUICK CRUISE Why is Troy so rad?

50 SHOP TOOLS YOU WANT Building rods right with Mittler Bros.

TECH

18 YIELD TO TORQUE 30 FLAT OR ROLLER? 38 THE PHANTOM OF THE BISCAYNE 46 KEEPING YOUR CARB HEALTHY 60 CD SPARKS FIRE THINGS UP 68 GOING THE DISTANCE 78 BREAK IT IN RIGHT 92 TIMING TIPS There is more to fasteners than you think The ups and downs of lifters

Going internal with Aeromotive

Driven keeps your fuel system happy Installing a new FAST E6 Ignition

Overdrive transmission helps with the long haul Procedures you should follow

Is your ignition timing set correctly?

Parts Store 4L60E Performance Transmissions JEGS................................. 52 Dual-Quad Air-Gap Intake Manifold Edelbrock........................ 52 X1 Fuel Pressure Regulator Aeromotive................................... 53 California Gold All-Chrome Mothers........................................ 53 Melonized Distributor Gears COMP Cams............................... 53 PowerGen Powermaster............................................................ 54 Speedometer Gears TCI........................................................... 54 B-Body Mopar Column ididit Inc............................................... 54 Solid Rocket 18 x 6-inch Wheel Rocket Racing Wheels............ 55 ’40 Ford Gauge Cluster Classic Instruments............................ 56 Sidedraft EFI Systems Inglese.................................................. 56 HEI Conversion Kits Crane Cams............................................. 57 Flexible Dipstick Lokar............................................................. 57 Race Wax Driven Racing Oil...................................................... 57 102mm Electronic Throttle Body For GM LS Engines FAST..... 58 Universal Hose Kit Vintage Air.................................................. 58 Flame-Thrower HEI III Pertonix................................................. 58 G-Machine Chassis Schwartz Performance............................... 59 Bootlegger T-Shirt Lunati.......................................................... 59

STREETRODLIFE.COM

NEWS HOT TOPICS INFO

RPM REPORT

SPONSORED BY

Bring the garage to the living room Luken Communications, a national multicast television network provider offering a wide range of programming choices has seen the need for more gearhead content and answered the call with its newest network, Rev’n. In 2005, Luken became one of the first digital broadcast networks. Now with seven networks, they have the capacity to reach over 85 million households! Rev’n TV officially launched on December 1, 2014. Currently, the channel is available through 31 affiliates in 29 markets reaching an estimated 37 million homes. Rev’n is dedicated to all things “revving” and is geared toward the performance enthusiast, featuring cars, trucks, motorcycles, boats, events, auctions, and a whole lot more. Some of the shows that you will see on Rev’n include proven automotive shows any gearhead would recognize such as Two Guys Garage, Bidding Wars, Truck U, and

My Classic Car. They have just announced the addition of V8TV to the lineup, which follows the V8 Speed and Resto Shop in Red Bud, Illinois, who specialize in building, restoring, and modifying American Muscle Cars. “Rev’n is proud to continue expanding its programming by bringing yet another great

series to audiences nationwide, this time focusing on muscle car restoration,” said Terri Coyle, Luken’s Director of Programming. “The addition of V8TV is another step toward making Rev’n a one-stop shop for gearheads of every kind, and we couldn’t be happier to offer viewers the opportunity to be along for the ride.”

COMP Cams, FAST return as preferred suppliers of Goodguys COMP Cams and FAST are looking forward to continuing their longstanding partnership with the Goodguys Rod and Custom Association through the 2015 season! Goodguys hosts some of the most prestigious and best-attended automotive events each year from coast to coast. With such a large and diverse group of current and potential customers to reach, it’s only natural that the COMP Performance Group brands would be involved. COMP Cams has re-upped to serve as the Preferred Camshaft of Goodguys in 2015, while FAST returns as the Preferred Electronic Fuel Injection. The COMP Performance Group trailer will also be on hand at a number 4

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

of Goodguys events, including the PPG Nationals, Lone Star Nationals and others. Technicians from both brands will be on hand to provide advice, answer questions, and offer a variety of COMP Performance Group parts and apparel — often at special show-discounted rates.

In addition to Rev’n’s over-the-air broadcast and cable carriage in specific markets, Rev’n is also available for online streaming in HD at revntv.com and through the Rev’n YouTube channel over devices such as Apple TV, Google Chromecast, Xbox, Sony PlayStation, and others.

Petersen Museum needs help The Petersen Automotive Museum is asking for donations to restore a 3-wheeled 1948 Davis Divan. Only 17 of these cars were ever built and they have one! The museum is hoping to raise $30,000 to restore the Divan to its original glory. Check out more information at: peterson.org.

NEWS HOT TOPICS INFO

RPM REPORT

Xceleration Media to sponsor giveaway at Street Machine National events Submit car images to Facebook to be eligible for Gearhead Powerpack Giveaway Xceleration Media, parent company of Street Rod Life, has just announced the Gearhead Powerpack Giveaway, in conjunction with the Street Machine Nationals. Contestants can submit photos of their car on the Street Rod Life, Gearheads4Life, or Power and Performance News, Facebook pages. Prior to the event the editors for each site will choose the car which they feel best represents their brand. Eligible contestants must be able to attend the event with their car, where they will get the VIP treatment: Free registration for the vehicle and one free passenger into the Street Machine National event. Free VIP parking in a designated area within the event signifying you are

the Gearhead Powerpack Giveaway Winner. The winning car will be highlighted in the Xceleration Media print magazine correlating to the website from which it was chosen.

Winners will receive:

One gift certificate for $150 from COMP Cams One gift certificate for $100 from FAST One gift certificate for $100 from TCI One gift certificate for $100 from ZEX One gift certificate for $100 from RHS One free case of Driven Hot Rod Oil

Mark your calendar The sixth annual Collector Car Appreciation Day is scheduled for Friday, July 10, 2015. The day serves to focus attention on the vital role that automotive restoration and collection plays in American society. Thousands of Americans gather at car cruises, parades, and other events to celebrate our nation’s automotive heritage.

Ford helps set Hot Wheels loop world record As part of this year’s Take Your Child to Work Day, Ford ran circles, or at least one big loop, around the competition using Hot Wheels track and a Hot Wheels Mustang. The standing world record was set on a 9-feet diameter loop and Ford raised the bar with a successful 12.5-feet loop. The record setting run took place in the three-story atrium of the company’s Research and Innovation Center in Dearborn, Michigan. The world record attempt was the brainchild of Ford dynamometer technician Matt West, who had built increasingly larger Hot Wheels loops with his sixyear-old son, Blade, at their home in Monroe, Michigan. “It started as part-fun, part-physics lesson with my son at home,” West says. “We built one in our playroom,

Photo courtesy of Ford

and then built a five-foot-tall loop in our backyard. When people at Ford heard what we were up to, everyone thought it would be a great way to get

young people excited about science and engineering by trying to break the world record on Take Your Child to Work Day.”

With the help of others at Ford, including John Jaranson, technical expert in interior systems, and Grant Compton, computer-aided design engineer, they created the loop using computer-aided design software called CATIA, which is often used for car design. “It’s an honor for Hot Wheels to have inspired Matt West and the Ford team to embark on such an epic world record attempt,” says Chris Down, Hot Wheels senior vice president and general manager. “Ford and Mattel have a history going back more than four decades. We both have tremendous passion for pushing the limits of design, and we’re happy to be involved in trying to generate enthusiasm for science and technology for kids everywhere.” STREETRODLIFE.COM

SITES APPS FORUMS TRENDS

DIGITAL DETOUR Searching for informative websites about street rods and things we dig is getting increasingly difficult. We weeded through a few of our most recent finds to save you time and help spread the word of a few quality sites and helpful forums. Any suggestions? Send them to tryden@xcelerationmedia.com.

OF OUR EYE

Websites

PRACTICE TREE LIVE

Second Chance for Restoration

Stroker Site

This site is a plethora of classic and antique vehicles with troubleshooting and restoration tips, reviews, and information geared towards anyone building or restoring a vintage vehicle. Need engine specs for a ’47 Olds or a ’54 Imperial? There are also tips on restoring a banjo steering wheel or how to use threaded rivets. Good stuff for any rodder.

This is not a site about Stroker Ace, the Burt Reynolds fictional NASCAR racer film disaster, but rather a pleasing place to read about Tom Medley, the artist behind Stroker McGurk comic. The site provides information about the man who was one of the original staffers at Hot Rod magazine and was there to photograph nearly every motorsports events in the earliest days of rodding.

secondchancegarage.com

strokerbymedley.com

Forums Shoebox Chevys

Want to know how to remove the fresh air vent flappers on a ’57, check date codes on glass, or want to see the difference between a seamed or seamless chassis? This is the place. Trifive.com is a wealth of information when you’re building a ’55, ’56, or ’57 Chevy whether restoring it or going with modifications. Post a question, you’ll get responses. trifive.com

Metal Workers

If you’re in to working with metal and making your own panels from scratch, this forum bills itself as the “friendliest and largest” group of metal shapers on the web. Tall order, but it sure seems like they can back it up. From resto documentaries to tutorial, info on tools, and some really cool history, this forum will satisfy your need for metal work.

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

If you’re a fan or already own a classic Chrysler, chances are that you already have this website bookmarked. However, the sheer volume and breadth that allpar.com delivers will provide non-Mopar owners with hours of quality information. Care to know Chrysler’s military history or learn about the different assembly plants? Allpar has it all.

Tired of Tire Sizes?

Selecting the proper tires for your rod is one of the most important aspects in determining the ride, stance, and looks. This site helps you compare sizes and there’s also a speedometer conversion so you can see the effects of different diameter tires on your speeds. tire-size-conversion.com

allpar.com

Gasser Goodness

Gasser glory abounds at this forum with information being shared by rodders in their garage. Whether you’re using a new straight axle kit or looking for info on steering boxes, these pages are chock full of tips, tricks, and experience when going the gasser route.

Hit the Road

Looking to map out a road trip in your rod this summer? Mouse your way over to roadtripamerica. com. The forum has plenty of suggestions on where to go, how to get there and what to do once you make it. roadtripamerica.com

gasserhotrods.com

metalmeet.com

Street rodding news at your fingertips Street Rod Life has made it as easy as possible for you to receive the information you are looking for in the format you feel most comfortable with. Whether you get your information on a laptop, tablet, or your phone,

Mopar Mother Load

we’ve got you covered so you can get the latest street rod information straight from the source. Our content is updated daily, so check often with Street Rod Life through any of the social media options on the right.

APPs

The Practice Tree Live app has been designed for racers, by racers. Unlike other drag tree apps, Practice Tree Live is free and allows you to play against friends on separate devices anywhere around the world. All that is needed is access to the Internet. Its simple design makes for a short learning curve, so you can get straight to practice. This app really is a must have for any racer who wants to ignite that competitive desire while away from the track. Even if your car only sees the track a couple times a year, this app will keep your reaction times sharp. But for the racers, you’ll definitely see the results from all your practicing. You can even use the app to keep you in the zone between your rounds of races at the track. Thanks to the customizable settings in the app, you can set your rollout adjustability, delay box, and bump down so it’s just like being behind the wheel of your dragster. Practice Tree Live is a free app and is only available in the Apple iTunes Store.

CPRO CRAIGSLIST

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youtube.com/StreetRodLife INSTAGRAM

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When you have an itch for a specific new project or are searching for a part, Craigslist is always a great place to check.With CPro Craigslist Mobile client you’ll be searching every city that you have a friend or relative in. You can easily program in multicity searches, browse by map, have photo previews and more. Beware – you’ll find yourself spending a lot more time glued to your tablet or phone!

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Be Social! Find us on Instagram, and hashtag #StreetRodLife on all your favorite car show photos, racing shots, and just plain ol’ cool stuff that we all dig… or even give us a shoutout @StreetRodLife to share something and we might even repost it.

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

Road Trip Dilemmas

So youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re driving with a couple thousand rodders through middle America enjoying the small towns and back roads. Neighborhood folks are giving you thumbs-up and waves as the rumble of classic rides pass by. Then you come around a bend just leaving town and you see this simple request. It would be rude to disappoint the locals wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t it?

RACING PRODUCTS ENTERTAINMENT

VIDEO PLAYLIST Video Playlist consists of interesting videos we came across on the Internet. Whether historical, funny, dramatic, or technical, we thought they might be of interest to our street rod community.

Scan QR Code to watch now!

World’s Fastest Edsel

Take a short cruise in John Perry’s ’58 Edsel Ranger that is powered by a 557c.i. engine, topped with Kaase P51 heads and an 8-71 Dyers blower, running FAST fuel injection, and ZEX nitrous system. youtu.be/LPgHasdWNAM

Beadrolling a Derringer Pistol

In this time-lapse video, Jamey Jordan, of HandMade Seat Co., uses a Mittler Brothers 36-inch beadroller to create a really cool Derringer pistol. Check out more of the tools Mittler Bros. has to offer on page 50. youtu.be/EHdb4Ul1CeI

Subscribe to our YouTube channel to keep up with our original and curated video content that is updated frequently by the Street Rod Life editorial staff. youtube.com/StreetRodLife

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

Stealth install

Kyle from Aeromotive walks you through the basics of installing an Aeromotive Stealth Fuel Tank. The installation of the complete system only requires a few basic hand tools and the OEM design of the tank makes installation a simple afternoon project. See page 38 for more on the Stealth Fuel Tank. youtu.be/l-XdzzAMnoc

Rods from above

We all know how car shows look from the ground, but the guys in this video decided to give us a view of the Lonestar Round Up from above. See more coverage from the Lonestar Round Up on page 42. youtu.be/tPZa7JAhzJg

The asphalt jungle is a noisy place. Make sure you’re heard. The streets are full of commotion and it’s easy to get run over unless you make some noise. The hard-hitting Thumpr™ Series from COMP Cams® will give your hot rod or street machine an aggressive note that lets them know you mean business. More than all bark and no bite, they were specifically designed to create impressive horsepower gains and broad torque curves while maintaining streetability. From mild to wild, Thumpr™ offers three levels of thump to suit any engine: Thumpr™, Mutha Thumpr™, and the Big Mutha Thumpr™. Though nostalgic-sounding in note, the designs are compatible with the latest in valve train advances, including COMP® Beehive™ Valve Springs, Ultra Pro Magnum™ Roller Rockers, and Magnum Pushrods. EFI-compatible versions are also available. You choose the engine, Thumpr® will make it roar.

Spintron® and dyno tested Available for both carb and EFI Retro-fit hydraulic roller and hydraulic flat tappet versions GM - Ford - Chrysler - even Ford flathead and Buick nailhead

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Choose one of four levels of component-matched kits, including the all-inclusive K-Kit for a complete, trouble-free installation. Complete K-Kits include a camshaft, lifters, springs, timing chain set, valve stem seals, retainers, locks and assembly lube.

COMPCAMS.COM

CAM HELP ® 1.800.999.0853

with Steve Magnante

Life with an axle car Editor’s Note: This issue we asked Steve Magnante, the Barrett-Jackson fact master, AFX fan, and automotive author about his love of straight axles and driving them on the street.

“

ou drive that on the street?” It’s a question I hear over and over from fellow car-folk whenever they see pictures of my fleet of altered wheelbase cars. Though I sold the Wilshire Shaker ’63 Chevy Nova recently, the Rampage, ’63 Dodge Dart and Ford Charger, ’81 Ford Fairmont live on with me at my rural Massachusetts home and see plenty of summertime road miles. Each of my multi-make brood rides on a straight front axle with a pair of semi-elliptic leaf springs supporting the nose of the car. The core of most people’s incredulous response stems from the fact that there’s a lot of misunderstanding and misinformation surrounding what we’ll call “axle cars.” But whether the subject is a primer gray ’55 Chevy gasser, Mr. Norm’s 8.9-second supercharged ’65 Dodge Coronet match racer, or a ’73 Maverick street freak built for blowing minds on Van Nuys boulevard back in the day, the presence of a straight front axle doesn’t preclude friendly street manners. After all, let’s not forget the millions of leaf-sprung pickup trucks and vans built during the post-WWII period. While none were intended to be driven at high speed or exhibit Corvette-like cornering ability, their buggy springs and live axles are certainly capable of serving duty in normal street situations without concern. Think of an axle car as a vintage pickup — albeit with a cooler body and three or four times the power (when done right). There’s no need to avoid twisty roads, just take ’em at the posted speed limit and you’ll do just fine. The only unexpected thing I’ve encountered at the wheel of my axle cars happened after moving from Los Angeles to the Northeast back in ’08. Going from the billiard table sur-

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

face streets and highways of the big city to the lumpy horse paths of the country triggered a rash of steering wheel shimmy in each car. The front tires were getting jolt after jolt with no time to settle out. The remedy every time was a few more degrees of positive caster (courtesy of wedge shims between the axle pads and leaf springs) and extra care when balancing the front tires (spin balance instead of bubble-balance). Problem solved. Drag strip experience was limited to the Wilshire Shaker Nova. That’s because the Funny Fairmont doesn’t have a roll bar (yet) and the Rampage Dart lacks the usual NHRA tech inspection must-haves like a battery kill switch, driver harness, long wheel studs, etc. But the Shaker has experienced over 15 miles of drag strip passes on both sides of the continent with bracket like 11.4’s at 115-mph. Sure, that’s a couple seconds behind the “real” FX and Match Bash cars back in the day but remember, they ran nitro-spiked alky and carried 500 less pounds than my street ma-

Though built primarily for street duty, the Wilshire Shaker’s 2-1/2inch diameter axle tube and 1,500-pound (each) Eaton-Detroit front leaf springs easily cope with wheelies on the drag strip. The axle was custom built by Tom Medlock of Specialty Cars in Artesia, California.

chine. Wheel stands are limited to a half-foot — unless I make an effort to shed nose weight. Pull the hood, yank the under-chassis Bassani X-pipe exhaust, and it suddenly pulls 2-foot high wheelies. That’s great for the crowds, fun for the driver, but rough on the car. I’ve perfected the touch-down with a 1-2 shift right at 6,000 rpm. The reduction in torque multiplication snaps from 2.45:1 to 1.45:1, which brings the front tires back to the strip with a subtle drop. From there, the rest of the trip down the 1320 is arrow straight and drama free. What has given axle cars a bad rap in certain camps over the years is poor workmanship and occasional faulty engineering on the part of the builder. Straight front axles and the related sub-assemblies are traditionally sourced either from aftermarket specialty suppliers, like Speedway Engineering, or from re-worked parts scavenged from light pickup trucks and vans. Either one presents the same opportunities for making mistakes during installation, though aftermarket kits generally come with instructions that make things quite a bit easier. But as long as effort is made to ensure that the tie rod (which connects the front spindles for steering) and drag link (which connects the steering box to one of the two spindles) are parallel, the risk of funky steering is largely eliminated. Parallelism of these vital steering links must be present when they are viewed from above, as well as straight on from under the nose of the car. Deviation here usually isn’t noticed on the open road but will become obvious during low speed maneuvering and parking attempts. That’s when the flawed steering geometry can deliver uneven wheel movement at full steering lock and result in a car with an incredibly tight turning radius when going left, and an unnaturally wide turning radius when going right (or vise-versa). The remedy here is extending or shortening the offending pitman arm or steering arm extension as needed. Caster is another key setting that’s crucial for preventing shimmy and assisting the desired self-centering behavior of the steering wheel at higher vehicle speeds. While cars retaining their stock-type independent front

The “Rampage” Dart takes a low-buck approach with a recycled Dodge A100 front axle and leaf springs. Narrowed 5.5-inches to suit the Dart’s body width (now 63.5-inches drum-to-drum), the complete van unit weighs 223 pounds. The van springs measure 48-inches loaded and deliver a smoother ride than the shorter 34-inch springs used on my other two axle cars.

suspensions can get by with less positive caster, axle cars best avoid shimmy when the bottom pivots of the spindles/king pins lead the upper ends of same by 5–10 degrees for positive caster. Too little of this can cause violent periods of front tire and steering wheel-shake. The quick fix is installation of a bolt-on hydraulic steering damper. Looking to me like the automatic screen door closer on Grandma’s porch, these band aids aren’t needed on a properly set up axle car. Instead, use wedge shims between the axle and leaf springs to tune the caster. There’s more to avoiding a poor handling axle car, but these are the most common hassles. When done right, a straight axle improves vehicle stability in a straight line since it’s immune to the changes in camber and toe that can afflict cars with stock coil or torsion bar front suspension. I’m not saying axle cars are better at cornering or are the next big thing for road racing. But there’s no reason to be afraid of a well done axle car if general street and strip driving is your bag. Naturally, your head has to be in a retro frame of mind, and the remainder of the car should be built to suit a sixties mentality for maximum effect and enjoyment. For sheer “look-at-me” value, it’s hard to beat a high riding axle car! SRL

stevemags.com

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EVENT COVERAGE

DETROIT AUTORAMA

This ’41 Willys is owned by Dan Juliette and was built by American Gasser in Saginaw, Michigan. The brilliant Laguna blue paint looked as if it were plugged in, and under the hood sat a 7.0L LS7 to back it up. Dan dedicated the car to three friends that have been pals since high school in 1961.

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

he Detroit Autorama celebrated its 63rd year by packing the downtown Cobo Center with a thousand incredible muscle cars, historic rods, customs, and more. For all of the freezing street rodders in the Midwest, the Autorama provides a glimpse of the cruising and racing fun that lies ahead. Once you walk through the doors to the massive convention hall, everyone in the family will find a favorite car no matter what their tastes. Restored muscle cars, wild customs, perfect street rods, nostalgia racers, and if you venture downstairs you’ll find another show, Autorama Extreme, packed with metallic flake, bare steel, and vintage parts. Detroit is also host to one of the most coveted awards, the Don Ridler Memorial Award, which is presented to a vehicle being premiered at the show. When the doors open to the public on Saturday morning, the field of Ridler contenders is narrowed to eight, known as the Great 8, with the Ridler winner announced Sunday afternoon. This year saw quite a mix of different vehicles in competition and to see which one took the top honors you’ll have to keep turning pages. We would be remiss not to mention the hard work that goes into an event of this scope, which is put on by Championship Auto Shows along with many volunteer hours from the members of the Michigan Hot Rod Association (MHRA). It was the MHRA that put on the first Autorama in 1953 at the University of Detroit Field House with the goal of raising the funds to build a drag strip to provide members and enthusiasts a safe place to run. A few events later and that goal was attained. The 2016 Autorama is slated for February 26–28 so start planning (and gathering up winter snow gear). SRL autorama.com

Vance Loftis of Mt. Clemens, Michigan, couldn’t get his ’29 Ford sedan more “on the ground” if he wanted to. Up front is a tri-power W-motor.

In April of 1958, Mike Stowe bought this 1940 Ford coupe for $125. Several motors, interiors, and paint jobs, along with thousands of miles, Mike is still driving the ’40 and it is looking as good as ever. A perfect recipient of the 2015 Detroit Autorama Preservation Award — congratulations! For even more pics search “Detroit Autorama” at StreetRodLife.com.

Look across the Detroit River and there’s Windsor, Canada, which is why it’s not unheard of to see Canadian-built muscle cars at local events and cruises. Case in point is this fine looking ’69 Pontiac Beaumont owned by Jesse Henke of McGregor, Ontario.

Not only did Jeff Norwell’s ’32 five-window coupe stand out from the crowd, but he had one of the coolest setups in this show space with a giant model car box, featuring his car complete with a drooling, giant green monster racing the coupe on the box top! STREETRODLIFE.COM

The Sloan Museum brought a couple of concept cars from their historic collection including the ’56 Buick Centurian. The canopy roof allowed for people to view the entire interior including the aircraft like freestanding speedometer, wrap around dash, and innovative steering column support.

THE

GREAT

Another one of one from the Sloan Museum is the ’54 Buck Wildcat II. The fender design was unique to say the least, but you could tell GM was interested in lightweight, fiberglass sportcars. The engine was a 322c.i. with a quad-carb setup making 220 horsepower.

Harvey Bagshaw’s ’55 Chevy sedan sported chrome pipes, custom grille, shaved handles, and more.

On Saturday morning the top eight finalists for the coveted Don Ridler Memorial Award are named and highlighted throughout the day with banners claiming a Great 8 finalist. The Ridler Award is one of the oldest and most coveted hot rod titles to be bestowed. As with past years, the chosen eight made up quite an eclectic mix of muscle cars, street rods, and a couple of surprises. Here’s a look at the 2015 Great 8!

Mike and Belinda Terzich are the lucky owners of this incredible ’37 Ford Woodie. The overall build and custom machining was handled by C. Cook Enterprises with the design and rapid prototype work led by Ragle Design. The body sits on a custom chassis from the Roadster Shop with power from a Roush 427c.i. small-block Ford.

All we want to do is drop the top of Gil Losi’s ’56 Plymouth Belvedere and drive. Especially with an Imagine Inection EFI-equipped 6.1L Hemi engine under that beautiful long hood.

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

Tri-power fueled 409 looks right at home in Dan Carpenter’s ’32 Buick coupe.

How many times has there been a ’65 Dodge Dart included in the Great 8? We’re not sure, but if there are any others as nice as Willie and Charlotte Maise’s we would be surprised. With a new gen 392c.i. Hemi huffing through a supercharger backed by a Tremec 6-speed, this Dart is going to be a handful on the road. The Dodge is the work of the Big Oak Garage with over 100 body mods and loads of one-off machined parts and sheet metal work.

For Al Angele’s ’32 Ford Roadster, a Brookville body was called into action. It was stretched and modified before being mated to the custom Roadster Shop chassis with a 5-inch drop axle in the front and a number of fabricated components. Al chose an LS6 engine, but went old school with a pair of Edelbrock carbs and a Tremec 5-speed for shifting fun.

It wouldn’t be a trip to the Motor City without some super stock action. This ’64 Savoy runs a 636c.i. Hemi and is owned by Don and Matt Petco.

You don’t see too many ’72 Opel GT’s restored with the details that Jim Uhls’ displays. The Buick has been converted to a 2.0L with mild upgrades including a Pertronix ignition, stainless exhaust and sits about 1.5-inch lower.

Hot Rod Joe’s Rod & Customs designed and built this ’69 Camaro owned by Alan Reed of Baton Rouge, Louisiana. The team blended 2010 Camaro headlamps and taillights while adding flush mounted glass, altered body lines, and shaved drip rails just to mention a few body mods. The F-body rides on a Heidt’s Pro-G front end and 4-link system in the rear. Power comes via an LS3 with boost from a Magnuson supercharger.

Tim Palazzolo’s ’69 Mustang, affectionately known as Stampede, created quite a stir with its Boss headed 572c.i. engine and detailed Stack EFI system. From the outside, the quarters were widened 2.5-inches and the fenders grew1.5-inches with carbon fiber fenders and a hand-built hood. Amazing fabrication overflows with a tubular front end, 20-inch wheels and an interior with no visible stitching!

Craig Sobczak brought his slick ’64 Riviera down to Detroit from Marquette, Michigan. Good to see that there are some cool hot rods in the upper peninsula too, not just down in the ‘troll’ side of the state. The green really pops with the whitewalls and subtle front scallops.

Another incredible road trip car in the Great 8 is Dean Osland’s ’59 Rambler. The 2-door wagon has been customized and worked over from the inside out with an amazing dash, interior, and cargo area along with hidden hatch controls.

And the Ridler Award for 2015 went to (drum roll please) — Don Voth’s ‘Imposter’ ’65 Impala. Chip Foose was enlisted to design and build the heavily modified full size Chevy which was resized and reshaped to more of an intermediate size. The list of slicing and dicing of the body and chassis is substantial to get the Impala shrunk down to fit over the driveline of a C6 Corvette. You have to like the fact that Don, of Abbotsford, British Columbia, has owned the car since he was 17 and has been with he and his wife ever since. With its Foose overhaul, the Chevy is ready for the road again. STREETRODLIFE.COM

Make your

CRATE

GREAT

Can your old bolts handle that new engine?

any street rodders have turned to crate motors to power their rods. The offerings from Chevrolet, Ford, and Chrysler cover a wide spectrum of power options to cover mild cruisers to boulevard bruisers. Typically, these engines represent a solid value in getting an all-new power plant nestled between the frame rails, plus a warranty to boot. One important aspect to keep in mind is these engines were designed for a specific power output level, and when you start adding a couple of modifications here and there, problems can develop unless you take proper precautions. Virtually all engines that have come out of Detroit since the dawn of electronic fuel injection in the late 1980s incorporate Torque To Yield (TTY) head bolts, main bolts, and rod bolts. Remember, these engines are typically assembled using ro18â&#x20AC;&#x192;

STREET ROD LIFEâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; Vol. 1, No. 2

botic equipment with the fasteners preloaded via torque angle (rotated a predetermined amount to achieve the desired stretch). This means these retainers are stretched to, and/or beyond, their limit and essentially have no margin of safety. Fasteners are very similar to springs, as they need to be stretched to achieve a certain clamping force, but if they are stretched too much they will no longer return to their original shape and/or length. The amount a fastener is stretched determines the preload (or clamping force), although of course, there is much more to it than that. The type of material, its tensile strength, and size all factor into how much clamping load can be achieved. As a point of reference, consider that in order for a typical ARP 200,000-psi LS Series Chevy rod bolt to have 10,000-psi preload it will need to be stretched .0055-inch to .006-inch. It

PRELOAD TENSION (PSI)

24000 22000 20000 18000 16000 14000 12000

EXTRA MARGIN OF SAFETY

ARP 2000™ HEAD BOLT YIELD POINT

10000 8000

OEM TTY HEAD BOLT

6000 4000 2000

100

120

140

160

180

200

220

APPLIED TORQUE (LB/FT)

An ARP 2000 head bolt requires more force (applied torque) to achieve the same preload (psi) as a factory TTY bolt due to the stronger material. It is important to rely on the manufacturer’s recommendations as opposed to the factory torque specs.

Stepping up to a set of ARP’s polished stainless steel fasteners will provide great strength along with looks that won’t chip or peel like chrome plated bolts, nor will they rust or corrode.

Good Looks Better Strength Another important upgrade — one that’s often overlooked — comes in the form of a balancer bolt. ARP’s harmonic damper bolts are made from heat-treated 8740 chromoly and rated at 200,000 psi. They come with a large 1/4-inch thick, hardened and parallel ground washer. The 12-point head is extra tall to facilitate use of a deep socket, which eliminates worries about stripping the head or rotating the engine with a socket without the wrench falling off constantly. They provide increased clamping of OEM or aftermarket dampers for total reliability “insurance.”

should also be noted that the ARP bolt’s higher tensile strength provides an extra margin of safety over the OEM fastener. Because the factory TTY bolts have been yielded, additional strain on the engine in terms of increased combustion pressure that can come from a camshaft change, ECU modifications, or power adder can seriously compromise the reliability. This means, if you disassemble a crate motor it’s imperative that new bolts (or studs) be used in the rebuild. There are many other opportunities to upgrade the reliability of a crate motor through use of high-performance ARP fasteners. In many instances, they can add to the visual appeal of an engine, too.

Probably the easiest way to give a crate motor, or any engine, a face-lift is to upgrade the stock retainers with a set of polished stainless steel fasteners. ARP offers a number of Engine & Accessory Fastener Kits available as hex or 12-point heads. Both are nominally rated at 170,000-psi tensile strength, which is also substantially stronger than Grade-8 hardware. These kits contain a dozen different fastener groups covering everything from the air cleaner to the oil pan, including valve cover, intake manifold, headers, the front covers, and more. ARP packs the retainers on skin cards with each group identified by application to make installation accurate and easy. Improving the durability and appearance of your new crate motor can easily be accomplished with a fastener upgrade...ARP style. SRL Source: Automotive Racing Products, Inc. (ARP), arp-bolts.com

The stock TTY head bolt for an LS engine (right) compared to a replacement head stud from ARP. STREETRODLIFE.COM

with TROY TREPANIER Rad Rides by Troy has nearly done it all when it comes to building street rods, muscle machines, and in the last few years, some of the fastest land speed cars around. The shop office is full of awards from around the country and behind it all is the name hanging on the outside of the building: Troy. Troy Trepanier learned his craft by the seat of his pants, with influence from his dad and grandfather who repeatedly told the young lad, “there is only one way to do a job — to do it right.” Twenty-one years later, that still rings true as his shop, located in Manteno, Illinois, and talented crew, continue to design and build incredible machines that take to the highways or race tracks and perform as good, if not even better, than they look. Rad Rides started with a ’66 Chevelle, handed down from Troy’s grandfather, and has grown into one of the leading hot rod shops in the world. Troy took a few minutes away from the shop to chat with Street Rod Life about how they started, the difference between building a street car and a race car, and the industry.

As a business owner and leader of a successful hot rod company you wear a lot of hats. What aspect of your business do you like best? Working in the shop designing and doing fab work is my favorite part. I’ve been the office guy and have had to manage too many people. The creative side seems to shut down when you’re in the office doing the billing, ordering, and managing. We have a great crew and they just know what needs to get done. That helps me spend more time in the shop working on the cars. Fabricating and building is the fun part. Another fun aspect is interacting with our customers. None of what we do is necessary, it’s a hobby and hobbies are supposed to be fun. Our customers want to be involved in the process and there are so many decisions that need to be made on these builds

that it’s great to have them involved. I also want our crew to be involved with the customer as well.

Any formal mechanical or engineering/design courses?

My education has been pretty much seat of the pants and learning by trial and error. Maybe not the best way to learn, but it worked for me. Growing up in a small town [Manteno, Illinois], my Grandfather had a one car shop where everyone would come to get something mechanical welded up or repaired. My dad, Jack, also had a small auto repair shop, so I was always around mechanical things that needed repair. With my dad, I learned to make things work ... then we figured out how to make things look good and function. That continues to be a theme in all of our builds

— make it work and function reliably then make it look good.

You took part in a number of early Power Tours in your own cars and customers. Would you consider the Power Tour an important part of your success?

One hundred percent. The [Hot Rod] Power Tour was a huge deal for us back then for a couple different reasons. For starters, we learned a lot about the cars and how to make them better. These were days before a lot of crate engines, complete chassis, and so many accessories that are available in the aftermarket today. You might have a great looking car, but maybe the cooling system wasn’t the best on an extended run at 80 mph, or you’ll find out quick if the pedal location or seat is in an uncomfortable position after a couple days on the road. A road trip is a great way to learn how to make things work — and make them look good. We tagged along on the pre-Power Tour road trip called the Victory Tour back in 1990 with Gray Baskerville, Boyd [Coddington], Jack Chisenhall, Posie, and other top builders. We drove my 1960 Impala deemed the Pro Box. I was the young guy and just listened and learned from these guys. They were true hot rodders. They lived it, breathed it. Another aspect of the Power Tour was meeting so many people. We met future customers like George Poteet, manufacturers that we still do business

with, and made lots of friends. One of the best things during the tour is hanging out in the hotel parking lots after the drive and show. That’s when you get to talk to so many other guys that go through the same things we did throughout the day. The traffic jams, the bumps, getting lost, and not to mention the challenges they face building a car in their garage. We were just lucky that we got paid to build cars.

You’ve built some record-setting cars for land speed racing. How have those builds been different than a street rod/machine?

The challenge of building a race car, for Bonneville in particular, was huge. It was definitely put up or shut up. Going through tech our first year at Bonneville with the Blowfish one of the tech guys said, “That’s nice, but this is a race, not a show.” Fortunately on our shakedown run on the short course we eclipsed the record that we were shooting for. That garnered us some respect. The diversity of building a race car has been great for us. The packaging challenge presented with the Mariani streamliner made us step back to review how to make things easy to work on as well. There are a lot of hours just planning the packaging and placement of components and each car has gotten better. We were very proud to have two cars in the Hot Rod Top 10 several years ago with two completely different builds. They chose the Blowfish and our ’36

Grandpa told me over and over, “My ‘If you think you know it all, you don’t know nothing.’ ” Ford Ridler winner. That was a big moment for our shop.

What advice would you give a young designer or builder today?

Never sacrifice quality. Everything doesn’t need to be trick and cool all of the time. Make it right, quality is huge. You want these cars to be done and ready to be driven at any time. They have to be turn-key and worry-free for your customers. Also, you need to get out there and have your cars — and your name — be seen. Yes, social media is useful, but nothing beats hanging out in the parking lot talking with other car-guys. Remember, it’s a hobby-driven industry. Some guys are good builders, some are good marketers. You need both. And you need to know when to give and take. In the beginning, you’ll probably be giving a lot more, but look at the big picture and it will come back to you. My Grandpa told me over and over, “If you think you know it all, you don’t know nothing.”

Do you have a particular car you plan to build for yourself some day? Actually, I haven’t had a car since the 1960 Rambler Wagon! However I do have a project in mind. I was driving with my dad years ago and we saw a ’55

Plymouth Suburban, which I’ve only ever seen a couple, and never one done. A friend of mine found one so we have it, and I even have a drawing of it. One day we’ll build it.

How do you grasp the concept or vision that a customer wants? Walk us through the process.

We’re lucky to be at a point now where our customers trust us and we control most of the aspects of the build, however we still want the customer to be involved. Remember, this is a hobby, this is fun and they need to be involved. Again, it’s a give and take. For example, I never ask what color a customer wants their car, only what tone. The end result has to be something we stand by. The car has to be right because our name is on it.

Who would you count as a mentor or admire in the hot rod industry, past or present?

There are many. Boyd was the man who legitimized hot rod builders. He was always nice to me and took the time to talk. Gray Baskerville also kind of took me in, along with my family since my mom and dad were always out there on the tours and at shows with the company. Brizio, Lobek, Posie were all a huge influence and help when we were starting out. Jack Chisenhall and George Poteet also were key to learning how to conduct yourself and business — to remember that actions speak louder than words. You have to remember that you think you know it all, until you really start to listen.

You’ve set records at Bonneville, won the AMBR, Ridler, other street machine awards and more. Are there any goals that have eluded you to date? Something you want to achieve within the industry that hasn’t happened yet?

For even more pics of Troy’s cars search “Rad Rides” at StreetRodLife.com.

Baja racing would be cool. We’ve done the streamliner and land speed racing, but off-road race trucks are just incredible and over the top. It would be cool to build a truck, run it, and just finish the race. There’s no way I’d expect to win, just finishing a race like the Baja would be enough. SRL STREETRODLIFE.COM

RUSTED& RESTORED

Words Josh Quellhorst

A ’59 GMC gets an LS upgrade thanks to JEGS

or many, an old farm truck with lots of patina and character is the only way to go. Especially when that old farm truck can out corner and out run most new trucks and many modern cars. That’s exactly how Aaron Easter envisioned this Galway Green ’59 GMC Model 100 when he found it for sale eight years ago. The previous owner had already adapted a 1979 Chevy Camaro sub-frame and included a loose 8.5-inch 10-bolt rear end that required installation to make the truck a roller. An apparent abandoned project, it also had a 350 smallblock Chevy mated to a turbo 350 transmission. Aaron saw the potential in the project, “I loved the patina,” he told us, so a deal was struck and he loaded his new project on to a trailer and started planning the build. Aaron is no stranger to the hot-rodding world. He has been wrenching under the hood in his spare time, mostly on older pickups, since he was in his teens. When shopping for parts, the first place he looks to is JEGS High Performance. “They have the top name brand components in stock to com22

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

plete this project and they offer to price match so I know I will be getting the lowest price on the highest quality parts,” Aaron says. JEGS was also instrumental in having the right parts for his pending LS engine swap. Aaron got the rear end and suspension mounted, dialed in the small block, and was driving the GMC in no time. The old reliable SBC provided as much power as it was built to do, but it just wasn’t enough. Aaron decided it was time to add a modern power plant and came across a low-mileage, 5.3-liter Vortec (LM7) and a 4L60E transmission out of a wrecked 2002 Silverado from a local salvage yard. “I wanted it to have better fuel economy and stand out at car and truck shows when the hood was opened,” he says. The 5.3L was just right. These engines are often overlooked in favor of their big brother 6.0L blocks, which also demand more coin. From the factory the LM7 made a respectable 285 horsepower with 325 ft.-lb. of torque that can easily be bumped up simply with a camshaft and cylinder heads upgrade. With his new drivetrain sitting on the floor, he dialed up jegs.com to get more ideas on how to install and update his pickup again.

Ceramic-coated Hooker headers clear the chassis and suspension nicely.

A 5.3L Vortec (LM7) and a 4L60E transmission were purchased complete from a local salvage yard. Aaron put in a lot of hours cleaning and grinding on the intake to make a much better looking piece.

Aaron set about cleaning the engine up and making the necessary modifications to fit the GMC, as well as his vision for how it should run and look. Since it had low run-time, the engine was not opened up or rebuilt, it simply received a few gaskets and seals before being painted red. Several new accessory components such as the throttle body and water pump were upgraded with new parts. He also installed a Holley retro-fit oil pan for increased clearance. The original ugly intake was replaced with a Dorman brand stock-spec truck version, though Aaron introduced it to the cut-off tool to de-clutter and shave the unnecessary brackets, leaving it clean and unique. It was then dusted with cast iron gray paint. The engine exhales through a set of Hooker ceramic-coated headers purchased from jegs.com and dual exhaust leading out from under the wood-floored bed. Moving on to the accessories, Aaron learned that the AC compressor didn’t clear the Camaro subframe, which was alright as he prefers 2-60 air anyway. He installed a ’98–’02 Camaro power steering pump, along with ICT Billet brackets for all of the accessories to clear. Speaking of accessories, a Tuff Stuff alternator keeps things charged including an electric fan setup. Coolant is directed out of the engine through a Mr. Gasket adjustable thermostat housing and Aaron added a 90-degree hose fitting so the water pump connects to the steam line going to the heads. Taylor Thundervolt wires were run between the stock coils to NGK plugs, and all came from JEGS with a simple call. Moving back under the truck, the next challenge was how to retrofit the 4L60E transmission. A quick call and conversation with Gerry at JEGS led to a Trans Dapt universal crossmember with a 6-inch drop. It is adjustable in length for multiple applications with plenty of room for dual exhaust and worked perfect under the GMC. Gerry also reminded him that he’d need a trans mount to finish the job and recommended a unit from Energy Suspension. A couple of days later, the parts arrived on Aaron’s doorstep. The trans was mounted and a new driveshaft was built to tie the driveline together.

JEGS had the Tuff Stuff alternator, Holley fuel rails, and other accessories in stock for Aaron. Note the 4th gen Camaro power steering pump and brackets to clear the chassis.

A Holley oil pan was installed to increase clearance over the factory Camaro crossmember as well as the pavement.

The LS upgrade in the GMC is nearly complete as of our last talk with Aaron. Wiring the EFI will be relatively painless with the help of Painless Performance LS engine wiring kit that plugs into the factory ECU. Another call to Adam or Gerry at JEGS will get the fuel system wrapped up with a high-quality Aeromotive Phantom intank electric pump system feeding a set of Holley fuel rails. We’re sure we’ll see Aaron and his patina’d truck at a couple shows this summer. Maybe he’ll give us a ride. SRL Source: JEGS, jegs.com

STREETRODLIFE.COM

Classic deuce styling meets modern performance 24

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

“

t’s good to work where you play,” they say. We have no idea who “they” are exactly, but we can relate since we get to write about cars, look at cars, shoot photos of cars, and write some more. Then again, no one on the Xceleration Media staff seems to get much of anything done on our own projects. That said, imagine if you were involved with a big company and had real responsibilities. Sure you get to see lots of cool cars and racing stuff, but when would you have time to build or enjoy your own street rod? Add in some business trips here and there, not to mention kids and family to the equation and where does the time go? STREETRODLIFE.COM

That’s exactly what Russell Stephens has experienced. Russell has worked for MSD Performance for over 30 years, starting in the customer support department and eventually becoming president of the company. For over three decades he has watched and helped other people build incredible rods and race cars, have fun on cross-country drives, win races, and otherwise enjoy the hobby that he works in. All the while, he’s had to enjoy watching from the sideline, albeit from very good seats. But in the last few years, timing has gotten better. To start, he and his wife Michele became empty-nesters, which has garnered a little more time and certainly more garage space to the household. Secondly, the street rod market seemed like a great place to show off some of MSD’s new products and take 26

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

part in some national events. Perhaps the street rod stars were aligning? You know how these things go. They usually start slow with a little bench racing about what you would build if you had the chance. The next phase takes place at another show when a friend shows you some different chassis and provides some pointers on stance and driveability. Next, you’re paying attention to wheel and tire combinations, then your wife starts looking at seats and interior colors. Finally, your buddies and coworkers convince you that “you better do it now or you may not have the chance.” That’s pretty much the path Russell followed before zoning in on one of his dream cars, a ’32 Ford coupe. Like many guys, George Lucas’ American Graffiti left quite a mark on the young

dirt track racer when the movie came out. Specifically, the Milner ’32 deuce. “It was tempting to do a modern interpretation of the Milner car, but we’re about performance and racing red is our color,” Stephens says. Milner would be jealous. Russell gathered up his catalogs and magazines then cued up Google to set about doing his homework to devise a plan. The project started with a Pete & Jakes Chassis from Posies combined with a New Age Motorsports five-window body. Bobby Woleslagle, MSD’s in-house craftsman and jack-of-all-trades, headed up the project, with the help of Rick Bennett, Erik Brock, the CNC department, and several other experts from the El Paso team. The bare chassis and body were pre-assembled to ensure a precise as-

Rocket Igniter wheels were called in and wrapped with a set of Coker’s Silvertown BFG tires.

tempting “Itto was do a modern

interpretation of the Milner car, but we’re about performance and racing red is our color.

”

A set of Wilwood brakes are hidden by Superbell backing plates. Chrome Bilstein shocks add to the handling of the 5-window. STREETRODLIFE.COM

For even more pics search “Blurred Lines” at StreetRodLife.com.

A Walker radiator and a Cooling Components Inc. fan keep the LS3 temperature just right and are framed by a Brookville shell and grill.

sembly along with a GM LS3 and 4L65E transmission. As you would expect, there are loads of MSD goodies on the powertrain, including the ignition, fuel system, and starter. Crowning the top of the LS3 is a dual-quad intake from the experts at Hogan topped with two 1,000 cfm Accufab throttle bodies, and a custom CNC-machined air cleaner assembly. A perfect hot rod rumble exits through a custom fit stainless exhaust system with a pair of Magnaflow mufflers. Once the body and running gear were assembled and finalized for fit and function, the deuce was taken down to the bare frame again then 28

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

The interior blends modern tech with classic hot rod tuck and roll that was applied by Rodriguez Upholstery in Anthony, Texas. A Glide seat and Vintage Air keep things comfortable while Lokar amenities deliver a sparkle with a Dakota Digital instrument cluster.

hauled west to Squeeg’s Kustoms in Chandler, Arizona. The crew at Squeeg’s prepped and smoothed everything, including the chassis, before applying its own special blend of hot rod red. Once dried, the team at MSD carefully began the reassembly process. The cabin was insulated with Design Engineering’s Boom Mat materials and a Vintage Air system was tucked under the dash to keep things cool through the hot desert nights. Instrumentation is handled by Dakota Digital and an Ididit steering column ties to the dropped axle front sus-

pension. A Lokar shifter, door handles, and pedals adorn the black-vintage styled interior. The car which was built in less than a year, debuted on last year’s Power Tour and was displayed at the SEMA show. With the big shows over, Russell and Michele put miles on the little deuce taking in cruise nights and fun weekend drives around the southwest. “The car is a blast to drive,” Russell says. “It rides smooth, has incredible power, and gets constant thumbs ups and waves on the road.” We guess “they“ are right. It is good to work where you play. SRL

If the time ever comes when a primer ’55 Chevy pulls up along Russell and Michele, he can just flip a switch and the Doug’s Header Cutouts open right up. No stopping at the shop to let this LS3 breathe!

An LS3 crate engine was dressed with plenty of chrome, polish, and detailing. Topping it all is a hand crafted tunnel ram intake by Hogan. A March serpentine belt drive system keeps the accessories rolling.

car is a blast to drive. It “The rides smooth, has incredible power, and gets constant thumbs ups and waves on the road.

”

Happy rodders – Michele and Russell Stephens.

It’s In The Details... The extra effort that goes into making each and every ARP fastener is evident in the final product. There are those companies whose primary concern is having the lowest price. Obviously, this means compromising material quality and taking shortcuts in manufacturing. ARP, on the other hand, stakes its reputation on quality; using only the best materials, employing extra manufacturing steps to perfect each fastener, and having relentless quality control. Moreover, ARP fasteners are

800-826-3045

www.ARP-bolts.com

manufactured entirely in our own ISO 9001:2008 and AS9100 registered facilities in Southern California. Look for the “ARP” stamped on each fastener as your assurance of quality. Check out our new 10-32 stainless steel 12-point bolts. They’re great for adding a finishing touch to your rod or custom. They, and over 250 other new products, are in the 2015 catalog available online or by request.

Get a FREE copy of the new 2015 catalog online

NEW

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ROLLER vs FL What is best for your street rod?

very street rod is a work of art that draws from equal parts functionality and creativity. The engine of course is at the heart of each machine. The major decision facing engine builders is whether they want to utilize a flat tappet or roller valvetrain setup. Here we’ll discuss the benefits and drawbacks of both. A flat tappet camshaft utilizes a lifter with a flat mating surface that actually rotates in its bore along the surface of the cam’s lobes. This proven technology has been used for many decades and is 30

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

capable of making great power at an affordable price point. On the other hand, a roller cam-andlifter setup can create even more power due to its ability to accelerate the valve at an increased rate, thanks to the use of a wheel on the bottom of the lifters. The cams’ lobe design can also become more aggressive, creating an increased “area under the curve” while maintaining the same — or utilizing even less — seat duration. The results are better throttle response, power, and fuel mileage.

In most cases a roller cam is the ideal option due to the fact that it doesn’t need to be broken in, and has the potential to make increased power. The sliding frictional forces that are in effect in a flat tappet valvetrain system are also higher than the rolling frictional forces found in a roller setup. As a result, a roller cam takes less horsepower to turn and generally does not wear out as quickly as a flat tappet. However, cost and the desire for originality are also reasons that individuals may choose to go the flat tappet route

LAT TAPPET instead of the roller. The materials used in manufacturing roller lifters and corresponding camshafts cost about two and half times that of a similar flat tappet valvetrain system. “There is favorable power to be made a with a roller cam when comparing a hydraulic flat tappet to hydraulic roller, or solid flat tappet to solid roller,” Lunati’s David Chamberlain says. “The power difference is not just because a roller lifter has less friction, but more so because of characteristics in the lobe design. “The cam designer can take advan-

tage of a more enhanced lift curve without having the restrictions of a flat tappet lifter to be concerned with.” Chamberlain adds that with a roller cam the lifter will typically be taller, making the pushrod shorter with less distance to make up between the lifter and rocker arm, resulting in less pushrod deflection. If the budget is available, there are usually not a lot of reasons an engine builder would not select a roller cam. “In almost every case, [using a roller cam] is a situation that sells itself,” says Jay Adams, a Performance Ac-

count Manager at COMP Cams. “If a guy is building a really nice car with high-end paint, a detailed engine bay and so on, he doesn’t want to have to go back into the motor at any point in the near future. It’s like an insurance policy to him.” Adams explains that modern flat tappet cam designs require an involved break-in procedure, which many times necessitates the removal of the inner valve springs, utilizing a lower rocker ratio, break-in rockers, and any number of other processes. Stepping up to a hySTREETRODLIFE.COM

Due to its unique design, a big-block Chevy engine is a perfect candidate for a roller valvetrain setup.

draulic roller package, however, means none of that is necessary. Of course, there are exceptions to every rule. The exception in this case is if the owner or builder already has the correct springs, pushrods, and other valvetrain components for a particular flat tappet, he or she may continue to utilize that package for a simpler and less costly cam swap. Some builders will also want to stay true to the factory vintage with a flat tappet cam. Sometimes there is not a roller cam core available for early vintage platforms, and/or roller lifters may not always be available. So occasionally a flat tappet camshaft must be run out of necessity. While flat tappet cams cost a little bit less they also require a bit more work in that it is mandatory for lifters to be changed when installing a new flat tappet camshaft. “Running the old used lifters on a brand new cam is a good way to wipe out a cam and lifters, at that point sending metal throughout the engine,” Chamberlain says. “That is the point of the break-in period on a flat tappet cam: to mate and create a wear pattern between the lifter and the corresponding lobe. This cannot be properly achieved with a used lifter that already has a wear pattern.” 32

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

A roller valvetrain costs a little more, but makes excellent power and is less prone to wear.

A flat tappet cam and lifters are an inexpensive way to make good power.

While it certainly cannot hurt to change lifters when replacing a roller camshaft, it is not as necessary. A great majority of street rodders simply use their factory roller lifters with moderate street performance cams. However, when using hydraulic roller cams, an upgraded hydraulic roll-

er lifter set is a good idea. Factory roller lifters are simply not meant to take the abuse of today’s aggressive cam designs and higher spring rates that are required with them. Some engines can also benefit from a roller setup more than others. “I would say most any engine can

Sources: COMP Cams, compcams.com; Lunati, lunatipower.com

Flat Tappet Lobe vs. Roller Tappet Lobe

0.350

0.300

0.250

Lobe Lift (inches)

benefit by going to a hydraulic roller setup, provided the parts exist to make the switch,” Adams says. “There are some instances though where going to a hydraulic roller setup is more ideal. Big-block Chevrolets are, in my opinion, the best example of where moving to a hydraulic roller setup pays off in dividends. These engines are infamous for exhibiting core shifts and thereby changing how the lifters ride along the cam’s lobe surface, especially towards the back of the block in the passenger side. “Most times when we see a bigblock flat tappet cam fail, it’s towards the back of the motor. And many times it’s due to core shift, meaning the lifters are no longer playing well with the cam’s performance-oriented lobe profile. Utilizing a hydraulic roller setup diminishes this problem to nearly zero.” All told, a roller valvetrain setup is usually a superior option to a flat tappet in terms of pure performance. But as with any street rod build, the major deciding factors simply come down to budget and individual taste. SRL

0.200

0.150

0.100

0.050

0.000 Flat Tappet Lobe Roller Tappet Lobe Roller tappet cams can accelerate and give the tappet more velocity than a comparable flat tappet cam of the same lift —resulting in more “area under the curve.”

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A former concourse-winning shoebox Chevy is a rolling reminder of a more optimistic time

Words Barry Kluczyk/Photos Todd Ryden

hevrolet’s affectionately nicknamed 1955–57 “shoebox” cars were instant classics that epitomized the optimism and progress-driven ethos of the 1950s. While all manufacturers dipped into the chrome-plating well and experimented with tail fins, pastel colors, and power amenities, Chevrolet’s entries became the benchmark — a quantifiable fact supported by industry-leading sales. In 1955 alone, Chevrolet sold around 1.76 million units of the 1955 lineup, including the 150, 210, and Bel Air models. Sure, the auto industry was completely different 60 years ago, but it’s still a staggering number, particularly when you consider the U.S. population was only about half of what it is today. And when compared with auto sales today, a fraction of the ’55 Chevy’s sales would make any automaker swoon. In 2014 the best-selling vehicle in America was the Ford F-Series truck, which clocked in at around 754,000 units. Not bad, but that’s not even half of the ’55 Chevy’s tally. At Chevro34

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

let last year, the best-selling car was the Cruze, with a little more than 273,000 sold — a measly 15 percent of the 1955’s total. Six decades later, the ’55 Chevy continues to resonate with enthusiasts several generations removed from its introduction, including 37-year-old Justin Oney. The El Paso, Texas, native and self-proclaimed “genuine desert rat” has a passion for shoebox Chevys and owns one of each, including a ’56 two-door Handyman wagon and a 6-71-blown ’57 model. But it’s his unique Navajo Tan/India Ivory ’55 Bel Air that really stands out. The seldom-seen exterior paint combo is complemented by a Neptune Green dashboard, giving the car an earthy ambience that contrasts sharply from the mainstream blue, cream, and red colors most enthusiasts opt for when painting their car. “I’d seen all the popular colors over the years — maybe too many of them,” Oney says. “I wanted something different. This combination gave me the 1950’s flair on the inside and the more subdued exterior I was looking for.”

He found it during an epic Craigslist search. He hoped to hustle right over to meet the seller and secure the deal right away, but it didn’t work out and, as Oney says, the car disappeared into the “digital abyss” for a while. It reemerged on eBay later in the year, but the price was high. It is here that we should explain the ’55 — dubbed Brownie for the old-school camera found in it — was no clapped-out and overpriced project car. It was a restored example that scored near the top of Classic Chevy International’s tough judging standards, drawing Platinum status. When the car didn’t sell on eBay, Oney reflexively contacted the owner to gauge his interest in making a deal at a more realistic price. He was. So Oney rounded up some cash, a trailer, and a couple of buddies to head out a few hundred miles to pick it up. “The ’55 was sitting outside of a well-known low rider shop in the Southwest,” he says. “Who knows what would have become of it if I hadn’t come along.”

wanted something “Idifferent. This combina-

tion gave me the 1950’s flair on the inside and the more subdued exterior I was looking for.

”

Turns out, the restored Chevy was pretty well-known in the Tri-Five world. After purchasing it, Oney found out it came with a couple of Classic Chevy International score sheets outlining the extent of its faithful restoration, which had been completed in the early 1990s when the car was still less than 40 years old. Oney used the score sheet data to trace the car’s history back to the original owner, who was a Chevrolet dealership service manager in Oakland, Calif. The car eventually went to the STREETRODLIFE.COM

For even more pics of this ’55 Chevy search “Atomic Era” at StreetRodLife.com.

The car rolls on Billet Specialties Legacy wheels, which evoke the style of vintage Halibrand wheels. They make a period-perfect complement to the car’s otherwise stock, straight-out-of-the-1950s color and trim. Chevy produced more than 185,000 Bel Air hardtop models in 1955.

takes older folks back to “Itthose earlier days and, I hope, inspires younger people to get involved in this very fun and satisfying hobby.

”

Displacing a mere 265 cubic inches, the “Turbo Fire” V8 engine represented the first year for the all-new engine that would later be known as the small block. It made great torque at low rpm and was lighter and more powerful than the ancient Stovebolt inline-6 that remained the standard engine for 1955. This one was freshened during the car’s restoration in 1992, but is all stock.

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

owner’s son, who sold it in 1988 to the man who restored it. To date, the car has accumulated only 73,000 miles on its restored original 265-c.i. small block and cast iron, twospeed Powerglide powertrain. While it appears modified now, thanks to the Nitto-wrapped Billet Specialties wheel/ tire combo and lowered stance, it’s all cosmetic. “The lowering springs and modern wheels give a fresh look after 20 years as an original-condition show car,” Oney says. “They’re the only things I’ve done to the car and they’re easily reversed. I kept the original springs, wheels, and tires, too.” After 20-plus years post-restoration, there were a few items that needed attention, such as door latches and window regulators that required lubrication. Oney admits the paint job is starting to look its age and could use buffing. The higher concentration of ethanol in pump gas has taken its toll on the carburetor too, which is due for a rebuild. Nevertheless, the car’s new caretaker says his future plans for “Brownie” are simple. “I want to gather the original parts and paperwork that aren’t currently with the car to complete its history and simply enjoy this very rare find.” Still, Oney admits to the creeping temptations of further modifications. “The engine has plenty of power to keep up with traffic these days, but the original-type four-wheel drum brakes, with a single master cylinder definitely leaves something to be desired,” he says. “I have visions of a killer Baer brake setup on the car — well, that and maybe Chevrolet Performance’s supercharged LSA

Cue the poodle skirts, duck tails, and Jerry Lee Lewis — the interior is a step back in time to the Atomtic Era, with a wide bench seat that made it easier to take in the “submarine races.” Like the exterior, the ’55 Chevy’s brightwork is surprisingly subdued, compared to other competitors of the era.

Connect and Cruise package — but the car has gone 60 years with only 73,000 miles on the original drivetrain. I don’t think I can bring myself to cut it up. I’ll save that for my ’56 wagon.” And it doesn’t take a supercharged hot rod to affect reactions when he’s behind the wheel of the ’55. “As with all vintage and classic cars, I thoroughly enjoy the smiles and thumbs-up this car brings,” Oney says. “It takes older folks back to those earlier days and, I hope, inspires younger people to get involved in this very fun and satisfying hobby.” In that regard, this ’55 Chevy is an automotive ambassador — and one that represents a golden age in America quite unlike any other car. Here’s to keeping it a rolling history lesson and memory trigger. SRL

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Phantom OF THE FUEL TANK

Easily install the in-tank fuel pump with Aeromotive

t’s a great time to be in the street rod life. We have the technology and parts available to build a rod with a classic powertrain and multi-carb setup, or the ability to use modern technology with a late model drivetrain. In many cases, it’s a combination of the two with electronic fuel injection powering a traditional engine. Making the swap to EFI is easy these days thanks to throttle body based systems, such as the FAST EZ-EFI kit, that bolts 38

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

in place of a carburetor and delivers late model-like driveability and performance. What makes these new EFI upgrades really easy is how they incorporate self-learning technology with the aid of a wide-band 02 sensor to ease the setup and tuning. We’ve installed these systems on several project cars with great results. In fact, it seems that the bigger challenge is modifying the fuel system to deliver the high pressure required of fuel injection.

1. Find a suitable location for the pump assembly. Be sure to take into consideration the sending unit float position and the mounting points of the tank to the floor of your vehicle. The billet piece is used for several steps during installation.

Stealth plan: New tanks with internal pumps

We found the Aeromotive Phantom Pump system an effective choice for modifying your existing tank but they also offer a line of all new tanks designed for fuel injection. Aeromotive offers a growing selection of stamped steel tanks that feature an internally baffled fuel system along with a high-output, long-lasting fuel pump. These Stealth Tanks are powder coated in silver for a durable finish and bolt right in place of the factory unit. The pump module has provisions for a return line so you don’t have to do any modifications. Currently, the Stealth Tanks are available for Tri-Five Chevys, ’64– ’68 Mustangs, ’32–’34 Ford, GM A-bodies, F-bodies, and more.

In many applications, the pump is mounted inline on a frame rail, or a fabbed bracket, by the tank. This is adequate in many applications, but the absolute best place to mount a fuel pump for a street rod is inside the tank. The benefits of an intank pump are the reduced temperature of the pump and less noise. Less heat in the pump means less heat in the fuel and a cool pump is a happy pump! Aeromotive has designed a fuel pump module that allows

the installation of the pump in nearly any fuel tank along with a return port for a complete return style fuel system. We had an external pump on a ’65 Chevy for several years and finally made the move to an in-tank pump thanks to Aeromotive’s Phantom in-tank fuel pump kit. The Phantom secures the pump in the tank, along with a supporting sump assembly, to keep a constant fuel supply around the pump. With the pump in the tank there is less noise and added cooling, but another important feature is the ability to easily run a return line rather than having to modify the tank. The Phantom Kit is nearly universal in both fit and function, and can be done by anyone in their garage with basic tools (you’ll need a 3.25-inch holesaw). The kit comes with everything you need including a new fuel pump, in-tank sock, the sump foam, and detailed installation instructions. We already had AN fittings on our existing lines, so you may need a couple -6 feed fittings, depending on how you choose to route and connect the lines. You’ll need to drop and drain your tank. After drilling the main hole and the mounting locations we ended up spending more time cleaning the tank, which was only a couple of years old, than the whole installation! At the first turn of the key, we were amazed at how quiet the pump operation was — no more growling at stoplights. Follow along as we installed the Phantom System. SRL Source: Aeromotive, aeromotiveinc.com

STREETRODLIFE.COM

2. Next, you’ll need a 3.25-inch holesaw. We were surprised that our big-box home store had them on the shelf. Prepare for a lot of noise and a lot of fine chips. Note the ring of grease we put around the area to try to catch some of the shrapnel.

3. Once the main hole is cut, use the billet assembly tool as a guide for the mounting holes. Drill two holes 180 degrees apart and insert two of the long bolts supplied. Continue to drill the remaining eight holes. Also note to do anything possible to reduce the amount of chips from going in the tank.

4. With all of the holes drilled, you need to measure from the bottom of the tank to the top. Ours was at about 6.5 inches. This measurement is used to determine the length of the sending unit foam which was cut an inch longer to produce a tight seal on the bottom and top of the tank.

6. The final step for the billet installation tool is to help pack the fuel sump foam into the tank. It actually compresses easily and slides down into the tank. You’ll need to reach in and work the foam around to center it around the hole for the sending unit.

5. Before continuing with the install, now is the ideal time to clean inside the tank as best as possible. The final step in preparing the tank is to install the C-shaped mounting assembly. The C-shape allows the unit to be directed into the tank then pushed up through the 10 retaining studs.

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

7. With the tank ready, we moved our attention to assembling the sending unit. The Phantom kit is supplied with a fuel pump (a 200lph or 340lph model) and a suction sock that installs easily.

8. The sending unit from Aeromotive has a steel mounting bracket that needs to be cut to achieve the proper position for the pump sock to reach the bottom of the tank. We measured several times before making a cut then mounted the pump and secured it with the two heavy-duty clamps.

9. Upon sliding the pump into position, the fuel feed line is connected, as well as the hot and ground wire.

10. A thick gasket is supplied that will squish down and seal around the top of the tank. It is designed to seal over the corrugated reliefs in most tanks.

11. With the sending unit installed, we made a wiring harness to connect the terminals and installed a -6 to -8 fitting on the outlet with a -6 handling both the return and the vent. Next step is to install the tank, connect the hoses and go for a spin!

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LONESTAR ROUND UP

ustin, Texas, is known for a lot of things: Crazy cool music of all sorts, the state capitol, the Longhorns, BBQ, and hot rods — not necessarily in that order. As the bluebonnets start to bloom, you can count on hot rods from all over the country to roll into the lone star capital city for the annual Lonestar Round Up! Smack in the middle of April, thousands of vintage cars, customs, and rods trek from across the globe (we met people from Australia, Germany, Holland, and the UK) to join together for a celebration of all that is hot rodding. Sure, we’re talking incredible cars and trucks, but remember this is Austin, so there was outstanding music with acts like Wanda Jackson, Dale Watson, and more. Don’t forget the unique hot rod art and culture displays, a car corral, and swap meet; plus minibike races, cruising, and hootenannys around the town. It’s not just a show — it truly is an adventure! This year the Round Up turned 14, and though gray clouds loomed all day, the turnout was huge! After hours, there was plenty to do around town with drive-in movies and a cruise at Top Notch Burgers. Rodders could also attend an open house at Austin Speed Shop, cruise down South Congress, or head out to Giddy Ups south of town for some honky tonk, shuffleboard, and pool. The Round Up was founded by the Kontinentals car club to get like-minded hot rodders together to cruise, hang out, and talk cars. The first event was a modest gathering on a football field one nice spring afternoon and while the event has grown to include thousands, it’s still all about driving your rod and hanging out with friends. Do yourself a favor, make plans for 2016 — the dates are set for April 8–9. We’ll see you there. SRL lonestarroundup.com

Jay Skow of Quincy, California, still owns his first car! He bought this ’52 Ford Victoria in 1957 and started working on it right away. Over the years it has received a ’57 T-bird engine, a ’58 Buick grille, inverted ’56 Packard taillights and more.

Scott Hawley made the haul from Burlingame, California, in his 4-door ’32.

Ken Smith’s ’28 Ford roadster pickup runs a Thomas Head 4-banger with a Winfield cam, Burns intake, and a Stromberg 97 carb. Icing on the cake is the complete ’59 Flathead strapped in the bed.

Pat Day escaped the Wisconsin weather in his ’36 Ford convertible. STREETRODLIFE.COM

A fuel injected 5.0L from a Fox body powers Melissa Turrenhne’s ’54 Merc. There’s great music throughout the day at the show — then on through the night — just about anywhere you go in Austin.

The spec sheet listed Super Dave as the owner of this custom ’48 Plymouth Coupe. He’s on our hero list since the car was driven from Des Moines, Iowa!

Vintage parts and collectibles abound in the car corral and swap meet. Need gauges or a sun visor — there were plenty to choose from.

For those long roof fans out there, Lupe Vargus’ very long roof ’60 Pontiac Safari wagon made the trek from Amarillo, Texas.

Weldon and Barbara Richardson of Amarillo, Texas, poured on the flake with their nose-high ’41 Ford pickup.

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

Love the white rails, firewall, and roof of Rick Hilton’s ’31 Model A. The six carbs and colored tint add to the package.

Bill Eckenrode’s ’30 Ford looks fast just sitting still. The chopped and channeled body is tucked behind a blown small block.

Saddle up on your minibike and put up or shut up with races throughout the weekend!

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PUBLIC # Enemy

Ethanol’s crimes against carburetors can be stopped by Carb Defender

t’s tough being a carburetor these days and it’s getting tougher to keep one tuned, clean, and running right on your hot rod. That’s not to say that carbs are going away any time soon (it’s estimated there are over 40 million still on the road) but today’s ethanol-blended fuel 46

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

mixtures are taking a toll, especially on hot rods and collector cars that are not driven daily. By now you’ve probably heard how ethanol in gasoline can cause issues due to its water absorption properties that lead to corrosion in the entire fuel system. The corrosion issue is most det-

rimental in carbureted vehicles, which includes street rods, muscle cars, and a large number of production vehicles. Remember, carbs were designed for pure gasoline and many of the critical components, such as the main body and float bowls, are die cast from aluminum or zinc. When these materials are ex-

Driven Racing Oil developed its Carb Defender to help your classic engine and carburetor deal with modern day fuels, which are mixed with high levels of Ethanol. Ethanol absorbs moisture and carbs, fuel tanks, and engines just do not like moisture.

posed to the water often contained within ethanol, a corrosive combination is created that can lead to carburetor malfunction and potential failure. There are examples of new carburetors being installed, driven home and 90 days later would not start or run right due to corrosion in the carburetors.

For vehicles that are driven almost daily and many modern EFI cars, this doesn’t pose as much of a threat due to the fuel being cycled through the engine not having the chance to absorb moisture, however most of our hot rods are not driven on a daily basis and the issue needs to be addressed.

There is a lot of information available about ethanol and fuel blends, but we’ll try to keep things simple here just to give you an idea. To start, ethanol is hydroscopic, meaning it attracts moisture, which leads to increased levels of water in the fuel system. The current E10 blend has the ability to absorb 0.5-percent volume before reaching a point where water will actually accumulate outside of the fuel mixture (called phase separation). For a 15-gallon fuel tank, that equates to about 1.2 cups of water being introduced into the fuel system. This water formation can (and will) lead to metal corrosion and the deterioration of plastics and rubber especially if the vehicle is put into storage for a few weeks or more. Ethanol is not added to gasoline at the refinery because it is too corrosive to be put in the pipelines. It is not put in gasoline in storage tanks for the same reason. It is actually added to gasoline in the tank transporters as it leaves the storage facility headed for the gas station. Tanker trucks have to be flushed with pure gasoline unless they were built to the latest standards with stainless steel and/or “coated” tanks. Pumps, hoses, and seals have to be updated to keep the ethanol from eating the parts. Old storage tanks at the gas stations have to be replaced and seals and piping replaced in the newer tanks because of the corrosiveness of ethanol fuels. So what is a hot rodder to do to keep their cool multi-carb intakes and simple old fuel system functioning up to par? Driven Racing Oil is one company that has rolled up its sleeves to combat the effects of ethanol. Driven developed Carb Defender several years ago as an answer to NASCAR’s mandate of E15 fuels (15-percent ethanol). Carb Defender is an additive designed to be added when the car is going to be sporadically used. Defender actually utilizes the fuel to act as a carrier that delivers a microscopic coating to the parts of the fuel system, which provide a shield against ethanol, methanol, and other oxygenated fuels. It will also help clean up deposits and will stabilize the fuel up to a year. This is not an issue that is going away any time soon, though it is certainly a hot topic in the aftermarket industry. STREETRODLIFE.COM

The extra moisture introduced through ethanol based fuels can eat your carburetor from the inside out. These two float bowls show the damage that can occur unless you prepare to defend yourself and your car. A bottle of Carb Defender for each fill up or two will ensure moisture doesn’t have a chance to build up in your fuel tank. This is even more important when putting a vehicle into an extended stretch of storage. Carb Defender also acts as a fuel stabilizer so your fuel will not go bad, even for non-ethanol fuels, for up to a year.

Extended storage times with ethanol-blended fuels can wreak havoc on your carburetor and other fuel system components. Driven’s Carb Defender will protect fuel components with a microscopic coating to protect against ethanol, methanol, and other oxygenated fuels.

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has mandated an increase in the percentage of ethanol in future vehicles. There seems to be “politics vs. engineering” battle taking place. The SEMA SAN (Specialty Equipment Marketing Association, SEMA Action Network) has stated: “The U.S. Congress enacted the Renewable Fuel Standard (RFS) in 2005 and then set ambitious mandates for the amount of ethanol to be blended into gasoline each year, going from 9 billion gallons in 2008 to 36 billion gallons by 2022. In order to meet the ever-growing RFS biofuel mandate, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) permitted the sale of 15 percent ethanol (E15) in gasoline. The EPA acknowledged that E15 poses a risk for older cars and therefore made it illegal to fuel pre-’01 vehicles.” It will be a while before any consensus is reached about the legality and decision of ethanol-based fuels. Fortunately there are steps you can take to protect your classic engine and carburetor thanks to forward thinking companies like Driven Racing Oil. SRL Source: Driven Racing Oil, drivenracingoil.com

“Garage Easy” EFI

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Two EFI Systems From FAST™ Make Converting Easier Than Ever. With two proven EZ-EFI® systems now available from FAST™, the conversion to self tuning electronic fuel injection has never been more attainable. Both systems are available for carb conversion and multi-port applications, as well as in multiple fuel system configurations to fit practically any engine/vehicle setup.

• 4 Injectors; Handles Up To 650 HP • Value Priced & Easy To Install • Multiple Kits Including Dual Quad

LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY

FAST™ offers a limited lifetime warranty on all EZ-EFI® systems, along with the industry’s best technical support team should you need product advice.

The #1 Choice In Self Tuning EFI PROVEN SELF TUNING TECHNOLOGY

Easy setup, compact hardware and refined tuning logic provide an incredible driving experience and combination flexibility.

• 8 Injectors; Handles Up To 1200 HP • Built-In Electronic Timing Control • Nitrous, E85 & CAN Compatibility

DETAILS MAKE THE DIFFERENCE

Unlike other EFI systems, FAST™ includes every bolt and fitting needed for a hassle-free install that can be performed by the average enthusiast.

Scan this QR code to watch our video tutorial on selecting the right self tuning EFI system, or learn even more at our new website: www.ezefi.com.

1.877.334.8355 • WWW.FUELAIRSPARK.COM •

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Not Sure Which System Is The Right Fit?

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RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE RIGHT JOB Mittler Bros. can help make your next project run smoothly

here are rodders who thrive on the design and build phase of their cars. It may take them months or years to complete the project, and once it is done, they drive it for a while but already have plans for their next build. For these craftsman, it’s all about the build more than the time behind the wheel. Maybe it’s the challenge of trying a new suspension setup, or simply working with what you have at your disposal and tweaking it until it works and looks right. Most of us are constantly tinkering and trying to make our cars perform better, be more reliable, or simply look cooler. One part about fiddling with and building a street rod is having the right tools at hand. Any job is easier when you have the right tool but it isn’t all about ease; it’s really about doing the job right. And on a street rod, doing the job right may determine the difference between making it through a 1,000-mile 50

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

road trip or sitting on the side of the road waving to your buddies as they keep on rolling down the road. Fortunately, there are companies that focus on making great tools so you can fabricate like the pros. Mittler Bros. Machine and Tool is one of those companies that understand what street rodders need when it comes to specialty shop tools. Mittler Bros. builds tools and machinery to help racers build better cars, and also have a division called Tanner Racing Products that designs, develops, and manufactures racing components such as quarter-midget shocks, axle shafts, steering wheel disconnects, and more. You can see that Mittler Bros. is all about building equipment that helps builders, racers, and hobbyists. In 1980 the company was founded in a small shop by brothers, Mike and Paul Mittler, when they introduced their first prod-

If you’re building any body or door panels for your rod, a bead roller is a wise investment. Bead rollers will help you create a smooth, consistent bead throughout to help strengthen the panel such as on rooflines and around wheel wells. The unit shown here is Mittler’s 24-inch Industrial model which can handle up to .059-inch mild steel.

When it comes to creating curved and rounded panels for your project, the good ol’ English wheel is the tool you need. Mittler offers several different types of English wheels that will help you create custom panels for a professional appearance in the interior, body, or even the engine compartment.

Photo by Brandon Flannery

uct, a hydraulic tubing notcher. Year after year the brothers introduced successful racing tools and equipment such as punch and flare tools, a hydraulic tube bender and bench presses, along with a few hardcore race parts like spools for 9-inch Ford rearends and fabricated differential housings thrown into the mix. Right from the onset the brothers focused on designing and building the best products possible for racers and fabricators. Today, that mantra still holds true in their 50,000 square-foot plant in Wright City, Missouri (just west of St. Louis). We caught up with Mike Mittler, the co-founder and president of the company and asked about tools to outfit a shop for street rods. Without hesitation, he named off a bead roller, English wheel, tubing bender along with a tubing notcher. Oh, there are also louver press kits, sheet metal brakes, shrinker/stretchers, and many more.

For rollcage construction and strength, a Tubing Notcher is a requirement. This tool ensures that each tube is precisely cut to form a tight fit over its mating tube before welding. The result is greater strength and a consistent weld area. Mittler offers a number of different notchers and cutters.

If you want to spend more time racing and less time fabricating, do yourself a favor and check out mittlerbros.com. There’s more — much more — that Mittler Bros. can help you with in the shop when it comes to building the best street rod possible. SRL Source: Mittler Bros. Machine and Tool, mittlerbros.com

STREETRODLIFE.COM

TOOLS ACCESSORIES STUFF

PARTS STORE

Sponsored by

At Street Rod Life, we’re always on the look-out for new parts that will make your rod a little quicker, smoother, or simply cooler. This installment of Parts Store brings you a variety of great new products to hit the market. If you would like more information, follow the website or give them a call — be sure to tell them Street Rod Life sent you!

High horsepower JEGS, 4L60E Performance Transmissions Affordable 4L60E transmissions that can handle up to 450 hot rod horsepower! Assembled by experienced technicians, these remanufactured transmissions include a performance shift kit and new bands, clutch plates, steel plates, gaskets, and seals to provide reliability and firm, crisp shifting. Transmissions have been thoroughly inspected, blueprinted, and tested to protect your investment. Made in the USA! jegs.com 800.345.4545

For even more new products head to

@StreetRodLife.com Twice as nice Edelbrock, Dual-Quad Air-Gap Intake Manifold How do you improve on the torque, power, and visual impact that a 426c.i. Hemi already exudes? Bolt on a new Dual-Quad Air-Gap Intake Manifold from Edelebrock! Edelbrock’s new single-plane intake for the ’64–’72 based Gen II Hemi engine (426–572c.i.) have the same square-bore carb spacing as the factory Mopar intakes making for a direct bolt-on for Chrysler fans and for cars equipped with a Shaker hood. Edelbrock also kept the height the same as the factory intakes and can be used with the original throttle linkage. Keeping with the bolt-on aspect, the Air-Gap is compatible with factory style cylinder heads, though it has been optimized for use with Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads. On the engine dyno, gains of 35 horsepower and 5 ft.-lbs. of torque were produced on a 528c.i. engine (656 horsepower and 618 ft.lbs. of torque). The intake is available for carbureted or port fuel injection applications. edelbrock.com 310.781.2222

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Mother’s touch Mothers, California Gold All-Chrome

Light and versatile Aeromotive, X1 Fuel Pressure Regulator Aeromotive’s new X1 Fuel Pressure Regulator may be the last regulator you ever purchase! The X1 is incredibly versatile and can be used on a normally aspirated carbureted engine, and if you happen to upgrade to EFI, or perhaps add a bit of boost with a blower, you simply purchase a conversion kit to match the needs of your new combination. The versatility is a great feature, but the X1 is also a third lighter than Aeromotive’s standard regulator (and most of the competitions’). Flow has also been upgraded with the addition of -8 AN ports, there is an 1/8-inch NPT-gauge port, and a 1:1 boost reference port for forced induction systems. The X1 is available in red or black along with three easy to install conversion kits to match any engine combination upgrades. aeromotiveinc.com 913.647.7300

Chrome and brightwork details have been an integral part of street rodding since the dawn of our hobby. Chrome trim can be used minimally to brighten a dash or interior of a modern rod or used in abundance on the front of a ’50s Buick or Cadillac. Either way, chrome and shiny parts are integral to street rodding and Mothers Polish is making it easier to keep your shine on. Their new All-Chrome spray polish takes the grunt work out of keeping your wheels, bumpers, and trim looking their best. The mixture simply sprays on and buffs off leaving chrome, PVD chrome, and even plastic chrome glowing! Easily remove those fingerprints, smudges, water spots, and bug smears once you park at the cruise to have your trim looking their best! Get your chrome on with Mother’s new California Gold All-Chrome.

mothers.com 714.891.3364

Better gears COMP Cams, Melonized Distributor Gears New distributor gears from COMP Cams provide the universal compatibility often associated with bronze gears for use with any steel, cast iron, or ductile iron camshaft — but without the wear concerns. COMP Cams Melonized Distributor Gears are designed to work with Big and small-block Chevy, Ford 302, and Ford 351W applications. The melonizing nitriding process was originally developed by OEMs, including GM and Ford. As opposed to bronze gears, melonized versions are less wear-prone and feature better timing accuracy and higher strength than any other universally compatible distributor gear option. The greater wear resistance and higher precision of COMP Cams Melonized Gears also provide less spark scatter (more accurate timing) than is possible with a bronze gear. compcams.com 800.999.0853

STREETRODLIFE.COM

TOOLS ACCESSORIES STUFF

PARTS STORE

‘A’ real charge Powermaster, PowerGen For Model A traditionalists, Powermaster has a unique take on the original charging system. The Chicago-based outfit has introduced a generator housing that looks like a stock ’28–’31 model, but with the internals of an alternator! Enter, the PowerGen. PowerGen is the proverbial wolf in sheep’s clothing of alternators. For rodders that appreciate a traditional appearance, no longer do you need to compromise with a weak charge. Powermaster offers two models, one for 6-volt systems and another for 12-volt systems. The 6 volt pumps out up to 60 amps, while the 12 volt delivers 90 amps at high rpm with a substantial 65 amps during idle speeds. The PowerGens also feature a simple one-wire connection to keep things clean in front of the engine. Both units are supplied with brackets to fit most original style applications, plus they’re powder coated black which we think would have made Henry smile. powermasterperformance.com 630.957.4019

Got gears? TCI, Speedometer Gears Ford, Chrysler, and GM speedometer gears are composed of a drive gear and a driven gear. TCI offers driven gears for all three. Ford drive gears are machined into the output shaft, so the tailhousing may need to be removed to determine number of teeth. Chrysler Drive gears are machined into the output shaft & have 13 teeth. GM drive gears of various sizes are also available from TCI. tciauto.com 888.776.9824

Smooth returns ididit Inc., Mopar B-Body Column A crusty old steering column with non-canceling turn signals and sloppy movement will ruin the fun-time behind the wheel of your favorite Mopar. Ididit has the solution to put the smooth back in your B-body’s cruise. Their new floor-shift column for ’67–’69 (and ’73) B-body is designed to bolt-in with no modifications! The columns are collapsible and are supplied with a custom floor mount and a wiring adapter. You’ll find a more comfortable driving position thanks

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to the eight position tilt design and an added benefit is having 4-way flashers. Ididit offers the new Mopar column in chrome, black powder coat, or plain steel for painting. Note that the factory steering wheel will not bolt-on so an aftermarket wheel must be used. ididitinc.com 517.424.0577

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Classic looks Rocket Racing Wheels, Solid Rocket 18 x 6-inch wheel The historic 6-pin drive magnesium wheels dominated the track in the ’50s and ’60s. Rocket Racing Wheels pulled styling cues from the original Indy Roadster wheels with the launch of its 16 x 5-inch Solid Rocket series and now is pleased to introduce the wheel in an 18 x 6-inch wheel! The Solid Rocket is built from a durable and strong A356 aluminum for great strength to complement its classic looks. The originals were held on with a pressure plate and knock-off retainer while the new versions use five lugs for safety and reliability (in 5 x 4.50, 5 x 4.75, 5 x 5, and 5 x 5.50 bolt patterns). There are also optional lug covers available with a vintage knockoff, a dome cap, and a bullet center cover. Rocket Racing Wheels offers the wheels in a cast finish, a custom powder coat to reproduce the magnesium finish, and it’s also available in a polished finish. rocketracingwheels.com 423.648.5865

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TOOLS ACCESSORIES STUFF

PARTS STORE

Celebrate in style Classic Instruments, ’40 Ford Gauge Cluster As street rodders, we’re celebrating the 75th birthday of the iconic ’40 Ford for the entire year. There are a slew of parts available to help with your project, but Classic Instruments has come through with a terrific solution for the gauge cluster with a direct-fit package. The gauge cluster comes complete with the speedo and tach, fuel level, temp, oil pressure, and voltage all wired and assembled in a single dash mounted module. LED lighting for dusk cruising, as well as green LED halo-effect turn signals, and even a red hue for bright lights are incorporated into the module. For the speedome-

ter, CI incorporated their advanced Zeus Speedometer Technology (ZST) that accepts any speed sensor signal without the need for an additional interface module! Four different graphic styles are available including a factory appearance, a White Hot, Hot Rod, and Nostalgia series. The gauge module is finished with a glass lens and stainless steel bezel. Mounting hardware and connectors are supplied for simple installation and finish to your ’40’s dash. classicinstruments.com 800.575.0461

On its side Inglese, Sidedraft EFI Systems Inglese Sidedraft EFI Systems offer unique styling, modern EFI benefits, and bolt-on fitment for engines using a single or dual plane 4150 flange four-barrel intake. These unique systems combine proven FAST electronic fuel injection technology with radical Inglese sidedraft styling. Designed to work with any FAST XFI or EZ-EFI system, they give customers a value-priced alternative to buying a full eight-stack system by adapting to an existing conventional four-barrel intake manifold. These adapter manifolds feature all necessary components including integrated sensors, fuel rails and linkage, and easily bolt on to any engine using a single or dual plane intake. All of the parts needed for installation are included. inglese.com 866.450.8089

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

works with

Sponsored by

Go digital Crane Cams, HEI Conversion Kits Crane Cams Ignition now offers conversion kits to upgrade your factory HEI distributor. If you wish to eliminate the HEI module and replace it with a Digital CD Ignition system, Part Number 6000-2500 allows the use of the factory HEI distributor, along with the Crane HI-6RC professional race design CD ignition system. This kit includes the HI-6RC ignition box, LX92 lightweight E-Core design coil and the matching coil wire conversion. cranecams.com 866.388.5120

Locking dipstick Lokar, Flexible/Locking Trans Dipsticks Sure Lokar’s flexible transmission dipstick assemblies are approved by the NHRA, but that doesn’t mean they’re only meant for drag cars. In fact, knowing that the trans dipstick and fluid are secured in the trans where they need to stay should make you feel good. Lokar’s Flexible Dipstick kits feature a large diameter Teflon-lined stainless braided housing that flexes to aid in custom mounting applications. The larger hose makes filling the trans easier and it mounts to the trans by bolting into the pan area (sealed as well of course). The inner dipstick securely locks using Lokar’s patented Anchor-Tight technology yet easily unlocks to remove and check the fluid level. The dipsticks lock and seal to where no fluid comes out even when upside down — but we don’t think anyone wants to test that point. The Flexible Tube assemblies are available in black with black fittings or in stainless with bright, black, red or blue anodized fittings. lokar.com 877.469.7440

Wax on, wax off Driven Racing Oil, Race Wax Adding to its line of cleaners and waxes that currently includes Brake Cleaner, Speed Clean, and Speed Shield, Driven is proud to announce its new Race Wax. This new spray wax delivers a smooth, glossy finish and effectively sheds dirt, tire rubber, and track debris. This spray wax has been designed for quick and easy application, which is great for when you just need to touch up spots before an event. The race-proven product is perfect for cleaning and protecting painted surfaces and will not damage your paint, windows, or decals. Driven Racing Oil Race Wax is available in 24-oz. spray bottles and creates that perfect, eye-catching shine you want your vehicle to have. drivenracingoil.com 866.611.1820 STREETRODLIFE.COM

TOOLS ACCESSORIES STUFF

PARTS STORE Drive-by-wire FAST, 102mm Electronic Throttle Body For GM LS Engines This new piece from FAST is designed to outperform all other aftermarket drive-by-wire throttle bodies for LS engines and look good in the process. All the benefits of the FAST 102mm Big Mouth Throttle Body are now available for drive-by-wire applications thanks to this new electronic throttle body for GM LS engines. It provides a huge increase in airflow over stock — especially when you pair it with a FAST manifold. However, it maintains stock characteristics at idle. The electronic throttle body is designed to be plug-and-play with the stock L99, LS3 or LS7 ECU, as well as with any LS engine utilizing a FAST EFI system in conjunction with the new FAST ETC module. The throttle body comes in a stylish black powder coating for excellent look. It utilizes a dual return spring for increased reliability, while a high performance electric motor provides higher torque and a quicker response than the stock motor used by competitors along with a precision non-contact TPS sensor cannot wear out over time. fuelairspark.com 877.334.8355

E-Z Clipping Vintage Air, Universal Hose Kit Vintage Air has been making street rodders cool for years and now is making it easier for you to get cool! Rather than sending your AC lines to a shop or using expensive clamps to fabricate your custom hoses and lines, they now offer a Universal Hose Kit that features their E-Z Clip technology so you can build lines in the comfort of your own garage. The kit is supplied with a smaller diameter hose that is easier to route and offers increased flexibility for close quarters. The unique fittings work in concert with a cage assembly and two clamps that secure the assembly together. Vintage Air supplies enough hose to cover most installations, a number of nickel plated steel fittings, and their retaining assemblies for a complete installation. Another cool product to keep your cabin cool in the cruising months. vintageair.com 800.862.6658

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

Flaming HEI Pertronix, Flame-Thrower HEI III The GM HEI Distributor has been a favorite of street rodders for years thanks to its one-wire installation and integrated coil. Out of the box, the spark energy of a stock HEI is nothing to get excited about but there’s an easy solution for that. Enter the Flame-Thrower HEI III ignition module from Pertronix! This new module produces multiple sparks through the entire rpm range of your motor to improve the combustion process. The module also features improved dwell control and timing compensation. It even retards the timing during starting to ease the cranking pressures for quicker starts. Best of all, there’s a built-in rev limiter that will protect your engine in the event of a missed shift or excessive wheel spin. The Flame Thrower HEI III Module is a direct replacement for large cap, 4-pin GM HEI distributors. pertronix.com 909.599.5955

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Full-length Mustang chassis Schwartz Performance, G-Machine Chassis With the 50th anniversary of the Mustang officially in the rear view mirror, Schwartz Performance figured it was time to get down to business and help enthusiasts prepare for the next 50 years. What better way than to offer a bolt-in full length chassis! Face it, the weak uni-body construction of the early Mustang has always left a bit to be desired in the world of handling performance. The Schwartz G-Machine chassis is designed to bolt under the ’64–’73 Mustangs to increase rigidity and opens the door to a number of powertrain combinations such as a new Coyote package.

The Schwartz chassis is engineered with long shocks for improved handling coupled with the right stance. Standard equipment includes 13-inch rotors, 6-piston Wilwood calipers, a Truetrac-equipped Moser 9-inch, power rack, and more. Not only do you get 21st century design and engineering, but you’ll also shave a lot of weight off the front end to improve the overall vehicle bias. schwartzperformance.com 815.206.2230

Y T L A I C E P S S ONLINE TOOL

Day Or Night Outlaw Tee Lunati Bootlegger Camshafts are an aggressive new series of cams for hot rodders that play by their own set of rules. Lunati believes that every outlaw should have the apparel to match. The “Bootlegger Outlaw T-Shirt” features a gray background and includes the word “Outlaw” on the front in a graffiti-style font. The Bootlegger logo adorns the right sleeve. On the back, the shirt features a hot rod in a barn directly above an image of a Bootlegger camshaft. The phrase, “The difference between an outlaw and a criminal often comes down to who gets caught,” is inscribed just below the neckline. This shirt is made from a premium 50/50 cotton and polyester blend for a soft feel. Both shirt options come in sizes Small through 3XL. lunatipower.com 662.892.1500

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Got fuel? Got spark? T

hose are the two main questions you need to ask if there’s ever a stalling or no-start issue with your street rod. Once you confirm there’s fuel squirting from the carb into the intake, the next question is about the spark. Spark, or the lack of it, is exactly where we found ourselves with our mid-’70s, small-block Ford. The engine ran great, but it was beginning to be hit or miss on start up and even left us stranded not long ago. It was then that we checked for spark by removing the coil wire from the distributor cap and placing it close to ground — nothing. The coil had 12 volts on the positive terminal and we also checked the resistance of the magnetic pickup of the Duraspark distributor. We even tried another coil and no dice. 60

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One source for fuel, fire with FAST Our rough-shot troubleshooting pointed to the OEM Duraspark II ignition module mounted to the driver’s inner fender well. Ford went to the Duraspark as an electronic solution over breaker points in the early ’70s and several versions followed since then. They’re still common to find on older restos and in mid-’70s cars and trucks. We’ve been pondering an ignition upgrade for quite a while and the uncertainty of the stock module sealed the deal for a new spark system. We had heard about the new line of capacitive discharge ignition controls from FAST — yes, the fuel injection gurus. Since ignition and EFI work hand in hand, it seems logical for FAST to have a line of ignition controls, especially when it

The FAST E6 Ignition Control is available with an E92 coil that is matched to the specs of the capacitive discharge ignition to produce the best spark profile possible and light up the performance of your engine.

1. The ignition is supplied with sturdy vibration mounts that are also very helpful when mounting the unit. We used the unit as a template and drilled the mounting holes with a 3/16-inch bit then installed the mounts.

can ensure the design of the components is compatible with its EZ and XFI fuel injection systems. We chose the baseline unit called the E6. This unit features Capacitive Discharge (CD) technology that provides high-voltage sparks through the use of a transformer and internal capacitor. By getting the supply voltage straight from the battery, the voltage is stepped up through the transformer and stored in the capacitor at full power. CD ignitions will provide full-energy sparks well into high-engine rpm, whereas a factory-inductive ignition starts to fall off above 4,500 rpm resulting in a miss and loss of power. To be honest, our little 302 will never see those high revs, but what we do like is the fact that the E6 produces a series of

sparks for each firing. This series of sparks at lower rpm (below 3,000) ensures combustion of the air/fuel mixture and can help smooth out the idle, improve the throttle response, and promote quicker starts. For our cruiser, that’s all we needed. Our kit was also supplied with a new coil designed for the CD circuitry of the ignition control. The installation and wiring was simple to follow, and we ended up retaining the Duraspark II distributor since it had a magnetic pickup for triggering the ignition. (Though we’re planning a distributor upgrade in the future.) FAST supplied the parts for mounting the components and all of the terminals we needed. At the first twist of the key the 302 fired right up and settled into a smooth idle. After a couple of days of driving we were confident that our ignition woes were solved with the new FAST E6 ignition control. Not only that, but there was definitely an improvement in the idle characteristics and even a little more pep in our step at off-idle throttle response. Now to start thinking about that EZ-EFI upgrade … one thing at a time! SRL Source: Fuel Air Spark Technology (FAST). fuelairspark.com

STREETRODLIFE.COM

3. There are two circuits to select from for a trigger input: The white wire for points and amplifiers, or the purple/green wires that make up the magnetic pickup circuit. Only one trigger input source will be used, and in our case we went with the mag pickup wires.

2. With the ignition mounted, the wiring begins. We worked with the two heavy gauge power wires first. Once we determined the length required to reach the battery the supplied ring lug terminals were installed. FAST supplies quality terminals that shrink and seal over the wire. Note the red wire terminal has already been heated to shrink over the wire.

4. We believe the original Ford Duraspark ignition module is the culprit in our intermittent ignition woes. We’re going to bypass the Duraspark completely and go straight to the factory magnetic pickup in the OEM distributor with the FAST ignition’s 2-pin mag pickup cable.

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5. Ford’s Duraspark ignition systems used a distributor with a magnetic pickup. We connected the purple and green FAST wires to the terminals of the Duraspark distributor. Each wire carries a polarity and it is important to connect the wires properly. The purple wire (+) of the FAST connects to the black/orange wire of the distributor pickup and the FAST green wire (-) connects to the black/purple. Once we routed the wires to the distributor we installed the supplied heat/shrink terminals.

6. The red wire of the E6 is the on/off wire for the ignition and needs to be connected to a switched 12-volt source. The easiest connection is to remove the original wire from the factory coil’s positive terminal. It’s best to confirm 12 volts with a volt meter not only with key-on but also during cranking. 7. The next connections were to the coil terminals so we set about mounting the new E92 coil. FAST supplies mounting hardware and the aluminum brackets to provide a simple-to-mount assembly. Again, we used the housing as a template, marked the location and drilled the holes. The coil slides in place and is held secure with the mounting hardware.

8. The FAST coil is supplied with a connector that must be spliced to the orange (+) and black (-) wires of the E6. These wires carry over 500 volts to the coil and it is recommended to route them separate from the trigger wires. Once again, use the supplied heat/shrink terminals for the connection.

9. The FAST E6 ignition control was easy to install and wire in place of the original Duraspark ignition. The 302 fired right up at the twist of the key and we could tell a difference in its idle and off-throttle acceleration right away.

This diagram shows all the connections needed to wire the FAST E6 Ignition and coil. Note that it will connect with breaker points, amplifiers or to distributors with common magnetic pickups. There is also a tach output wire that provides a clean 12-volt square wave signal to a tachometer, rpm device or to the ECU of an aftermarket EFI system.

STREETRODLIFE.COM

Leaving the

FLOCK

BEHIND

hen people have common interests, hobbies or habits, the old saying goes, “Birds of a feather flock together.” When it comes to Alex Short’s custom ’58 Thunderbird, the flock is flying far too low and slow to be in the same league. Alex Short has long been a fan of the “squarebirds,” and he decided to do a few mods to his ’58 simply to make it a little better driver and looker. You know the routine, some suspension work, some wheels, and a quick paint job. As soon as he 64

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

dropped it off with his friend Cam Miller, who happens to own HS Customs, plans changed. The body was treated to a number of custom touches including removal of the drip rails, door handles, locks, and all emblems. The grille opening was enlarged, while the bumpers were shortened and smoothed. The grille pattern was even reproduced as a graphic and used throughout the car with subtle splashes to separate the gloss white finish from the flat silver and black highlights.

All along, the T-Bird was designated to be a driver, which is why Alex decided on a Ford Racing 5.0L Coyote backed by a 4RW70 transmission. To handle the howl of the drivetrain the chassis was reworked with RideTech shocks and AccuAir air management, as well as a slightly longer wheelbase (one inch). The wheels are 20x9-inch Budniks in the rear with 18x8-inch in the front with Pirelli rubber. Open the door and you’re treated to a tasteful blend of modern flare with Thunderbird style. The wrap around dash re-

ceived an array of gauges from Classic Instruments. A custom console splits the leather bucket seats (front and rear) and features billet cup holders, an i-Phone dock, and controls for the AC and suspension. The car made the long drive from Logan, Utah, to its first Goodguys event in Loveland, Colorado, and was picked as a 2014 Finalist for the Custom Rod of the Year. A pretty successful outing for its first show and 1,000 mile road trip! SRL STREETRODLIFE.COM

The blacked out bumpers were shortened and blended into the body. Note how the bumper line continues forward with a black accent through the wheel well and into the door.

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The more you look, the more details come forward under the hood. Cool air is collected in a nicely fabbed cowl section and routed to the hungry 5.0L through a custom tract. We like the grille treatment on the engine cover and valve cover assemblies.

Eighteen inch Budniks up front are wrapped in Pirelli tread with a set of SBSC discs for stopping power. STREETRODLIFE.COMâ&#x20AC;&#x192;

GOING

OVERDRIVE Making the move to an electronic automatic transmission

hen it comes to packing up the family and pooch for a long drive in your rod, are you stuck going 60 mph at 3,500 rpm with one eye on the tach and the other on the fuel gauge? There’s absolutely no reason to be winding out the engine over the long haul these days as overdrive transmissions are readily available for nearly any application. Years ago, when the first 4-speed automatic transmissions were new, they may have received a bad reputation when put in a performance application — or if the throttle valve cable wasn’t installed properly. That’s all history as today’s electronic overdrives 68

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

(as well as non-electronic models) are being built to handle the demands of street rods and muscle cars. If you read “electronic transmission” and cringed, then you really need to put down the dwell meter and read on before adjusting your points. An electronically controlled transmission provides several benefits over the standard automatics. First, during installation and tuning, there is no need to run a Throttle Valve (TV) cable or kick-down linkage to the carburetor. Second, the amount of tuning and adjustability far exceeds that of an older transmission.

In most cases, you can easily adjust the shift firmness, shift up/ down points, and the converter clutch lock-up, whereas a traditional transmission would require dropping the pan and installing a shift kit. If you’re a fan of fluid running down to your armpits, well, keep at it. We prefer improved adjustability combined with staying fluid-stain free! As far as the fit of these transmissions in our classic chassis and bodies, it is best to stick with a 4-speed automatic. Most of the 4-speeds are based on housings that are similar in size as the original Turbohydramatics or C4/6. We say ‘similar’ in size but

minor modifications to the tunnel, floor, or crossmember may still be required depending on the application in a swap. The OEMs are now producing 6- and even 8-speed automatics, but these housings are much larger and incorporate tricky advanced electronics. If you’re striving for a 6-speed automatic, the team at TCI in Mississippi have developed one based on a 4L80E GM transmission housing. The TCI 6-speed is fully programmable with a FAST (TCI’s sister company) EZ-TCU controller for simple set up and adjustment of the shift characteristics. The gear ratios, 2.97, 2.23, 1.57, 1.18, 1.00, 0.75, improve the overall perforSTREETRODLIFE.COM

Put your trans into overdrive and enjoy the lower engine rpm and smooth cruising (not to mention improved economy).

mance from the launch to redline rpm and the trans is rated to handle up to 850 horsepower.

Electronic Control

What makes these newer transmissions electronic exactly? Their operation is very similar in thinking about an EFI system. The electronics of fuel delivery take the place of a mechanical pump, the float, needle and seat, accelerator pump, and the venturi effect of the flow of gas into the intake manifold. However, there are still throttle blades, intake valves, and other mechanical devices and controls involved with fuel injection. In the case of a transmission, hydraulic pressure is still used to engage clutches and bands but rather than a governor, throttle valve, or vacuum modulators controlling the fluid pressure and shifts, there are electronic shift solenoids. These solenoids are controlled by an electronic control unit that receives inputs from a variety of sensors. Most aftermarket Transmission Control Units (TCU) only require inputs from throttle position, engine rpm, or vehicle speed. With this information, you will be able to control characteristics of the trans such as the shift firmness,

When you upgrade to an overdrive transmission, TCI has everything you need to make your swap complete including fluid, flexplates, coolers, and an easy to adjust controller for electronic transmissions.

Most four-speed automatic transmission swaps will require modifications to the crossmember. American Powertrain offers their new X-Factor crossmembers that fit a variety of applications ranging from 20-inches to 34-inches across. They even built-in clearance areas for the exhaust.

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The TCI 6-speed automatic transmission is based on a GM housing and internals, but is also available for Ford and Chrysler engines so everyone can take advantage of a 6-speed auto.

up and down shifts, converter lock-up, and other important aspects of the driveline.

Mechanicals

Once you have a transmission and controller, you’ll need to think through the installation process and parts required before beginning. A new shifter will be required. The driveshaft, cooler lines and crossmember may need modification. Also, will your flexplate mate to the new torque converter? There is nothing worse than laying under your car trying to pry and align the bellhousing bolts only to discover that the converter and flywheel are not meshing or there is not the proper amount of clearance.

One key component that will be required is a throttle position sensor. There are sensors available that can be mounted to the linkage of a carburetor or even a throttle body. TCI offers a fully adjustable version for carburetors and there are several other options available as well. Making the move to an overdrive is one of the biggest improvements you can make to your rod. Just think about it, less engine noise, lower rpm, and improved fuel economy all add up to a better time cruising. After your first long drive, you’ll wonder why it took you so long to make the swap. SRL Sources: TCI, tciauto.com; American Powertrain, americanpowertrain.com

The Crane Cams Energizer Series is designed with single pattern profiles and tight lobe separation angles to produce increased torque and throttle response for non-computer street vehicles. Energizer Cams are offered in both a broad range of duration and engine applications to match your specific requirements. Whatever your need—a smooth street cruiser, a drive-in demon or a rough idle, high RPM weekend warrior, there is a cam design for you. Available in either “cam and lifter kit” or “cam only”, Energizer Cams are the best buy in a true performance camshaft.

True Bolt-In Horsepower Quicker, Crisper, Throttle Response Increased Torque and Power for Non-Computer Controlled V-8 Engines Matching Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam and Anti-Pump Up Lifter Kits Energizer Advertised Idle Grind Duration Characteristic 260 Smooth 260 H10 266 Smooth 266 H10 272 Good 272 H10 274 Choppy 274 H06 278 Fair 278 H10 282 Choppy 282 H06 284 Fair 284 H12 286 Choppy 286 H06 302 Choppy 302 H06

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Tech. Support 866-388-5120 cranecams.com

e l b u o D

C E U ES D Two ’32 Ford coupes have similar looks but completely different backgrounds Words/Photos Louis Kimery

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

ntroduced during the height of the depression, the 1932 Ford has been one of the most recognizable faces of hot rodding for decades. With a mere one-year production run, the car would ultimately become the foundation of what we call street rodding today. Many original cars have survived and been lovingly preserved, but the popularity of the “deuce” has far outpaced the supply of real cars. So much so, that it’s now possible to build a brand new edition from freshly manufactured parts, keeping the tradition alive for generations to come. We’re presenting two ’32s in this story (plus a third in this issue, see page 24) with one being an original survivor and the other being built from brand new aftermarket components. Can you tell which one? Or better yet, does it really matter because they are both simply bitchin’ cars and look great shown together.

STREETRODLIFE.COM

Times change and so do street rods. Over the decades this ’32 has been chopped into a hot rod, drag raced, and made into a modern rod in the ’80s before finally back to a classic-styled deuce coupe.

The Oldsmobile-green five-window coupe is the preserved hot rod, with a long history dating back through decades of use. The searing yellow three-window coupe is a brand new ’32 based on a stock height Brookville Roadster body and sitting on a Total Cost Involved chassis. They’re both ’32 Fords, but the similarities end there.

The Green One

The green ’32 is owned by David Kelley and was found languishing on a Memphis, Tennessee, used car lot back in 1949. It had found its way to Memphis by way of a California sailor stationed at the nearby Millington Naval Air Station. It had a few mechanical issues, but that didn’t stop Jimmy Fulghum from trading his ’40 Ford convertible for the five window. Soon the deuce was in rehab at Jimmy’s tire and battery service center located across the street from the soon to be legendary Memphis Recording Service, otherwise known as Sun Studios. By the time the car arrived in Memphis, it had already been the recipient of a 2.5-inch chopped top, so it’s lineage as a hot rod goes way back. Jimmy repaired the car and began making the scene with the Memphis Rodders car club at drag races and car shows throughout the mid-south area. Eventually, the flathead engine gave way to a small-block Chevy as the coupe made the transition from a street driv74

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Nothing trick under the louvered hood, just a proven 327 Chevy backed by a 700R4 overdrive trans. Corvette valve covers and rams horn style exhaust enhance the fit and form.

en hot rod to a dedicated drag car. The Memphis Rodders were a competition oriented hot rod club, and Jimmy raced the coupe from the ’50s through the ’60s. In fact, a participant decal from the 1958 NHRA Nationals survives on the windshield to this day. When Jimmy hung up his helmet, he intended to convert the car back to street use. The coupe was disassembled, and work began, but it would be more than a decade before it was roadworthy again. Eventually, the green ’32 hit the streets with a full brace of then-contemporary updates. A tube front axle, Corvette rear-end, Recaro seats, leather up-

holstery, and wire wheels gave it a new lease on life, and many more years of enjoyment for its long-time owner. Sadly, Jimmy passed away in 2002, and the car sat dormant for a few years before Kelly acquired it and realized his own youthful dream of owning a five-window deuce coupe. Kelly decided to “freshen up” the car in 2007 and revisit its history as an early hot rod. He contacted Ron Keller, proprietor of Rod’s by Ron in Cape Girardeau, Missouri, for some help with the heavy lifting. They started with a fresh Cornhusker’s chassis, a 4-inch dropped I-beam

The green paint is an Oldsmobile color with a handful of pin stripes brushed on for a bit of detail. The old ’32 has the perfect stance with a 4-inch dropped I-beam front axle. The white roof insert is a nice highlight.

Tuck-and-roll seat and door panels in offsetting green and white are accentuated with a machined turned gauge cluster and subtle striping inside the 5-window.

front axle with Pete & Jake’s hairpin radius rods, and a Ford 9-inch rearend held in place with Pete & Jake’s ladder bars, and the original style buggy spring. A set of front disc brakes and Lincoln rear drums now aid in stopping power. A 327c.i. small-block Chevy backed with a 700R4 transmission create a perfect driveline. A new Brookville floor and firewall revived the body of the old deuce and Billy Tunnell of Houlka, Mississippi, was recruited to supply the period-perfect green and white tuck-androll upholstery. The finishing touch is a set of early-Ford steel wheels with no-script, truck-style hub caps and BFGoodrich radial TA’s for a proper balance of oldstyle looks and new-style performance.

David makes many local car shows and cruises with his coupe, and is a regular at the Street Rod Nationals Plus with fellow members of the Memphis Street Rods. Those in the know, will eventually notice the telltale signs of his-

tory that live on in this car, from the tattered NHRA charter-member decal, to the unique 4-inch louvers in the hood, this ’32 has the credentials to provide a glimpse of how it was done when hot rodding was still in its infancy. STREETRODLIFE.COM

The brand new Brookville-based street rod looks every bit of classic ’32 from the front. The roof is at the original specs, however the suicide doors are not.

The Yellow One At the other end of the spectrum is Ernie Sutherland’s three-window deuce coupe. This car immediately grabs your attention with its retina-searing House of Kolor Lemon Yellow paint, but upon closer inspection it provides a blending of classic street rod touches with modern flare and technology. Ernie is a long time classic car aficionado, who is also no stranger to street rods. His ’32 exhibits the latest in manufacturing from a wide spectrum of talent within the street rod industry starting with a full-fendered Brookville body. The steel body, with suicide doors, sits on a pair of American Stamping ’32 frame rails along with TCI suspension components to tie the chassis together. A 4-inch dropped I-beam axle is supported by hairpin radius rods, with a set of Wilwood disc brakes up front and a 9-inch Ford rearend that’s capped with drum brakes in the rear. The Lemon Yellow hue is the work of Dewayne Stewart in Lakeland, Tennessee, who also is credited with a considerable amount of the assembly process. Beneath the hood we find a healthy 327 Chevy fed by a trio of Rochester carbs. The engine stays cool thanks to a Walker radiator assisted by a Cooling Components electric fan and shroud (which Ernie is part owner), so you know the car stays cool even during the most hot and humid Tennessee afternoons. 76

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Like it’s green counterpart, a 327 Chevy is mounted between the long yellow fenders but is topped with a tripower intake setup.

The interior was stitched in a contrasting brown Naugahyde upholstery by Walt’s Auto Upholstery in Memphis. Putting a stylish finishing touch on the car are the Dayton wire wheels, which are shod with BFGoodrich Radial TA’s at each corner of this screaming yellow deuce. When we gathered together to photograph these two ’32s, the similarities were obvious. Both were ’32 Fords, both were coupes, and both were street rods.

But the not so obvious differences were stories unto themselves. David’s ’32 is a street rod with history, and has driven down several different paths in it’s hot rod life, while Ernie’s fresh ’32 is a state of the art modern build that arrived at the shoot with all of 40 miles on the odometer. Both are sterling examples of why we find ourselves drawn to the time-honored ’32 Ford, eighty-three years after they were initially manufactured. SRL

Again, another perfect execution in stance thanks to the TCI suspension and Dayton spokes wrapped in BFG tread. Cozy brown leather interior of the 3-window adds a touch of luxury to the hot rod along with air conditioning.

Distinctive Style

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BREAK-IN BASICS

ou’ve bought a new flat tappet camshaft and lifters, maybe even some new pushrods, rockers, and valve springs. You can’t wait to take your baby out for a cruise. Before you do any of that though, you need to spend some time breaking in all those cool new parts. It’s pretty easy and won’t take long, plus it will save you a lot of aggravation in the long run. Chase Knight at Crane Cams helped us cover the basics. First, if you are only installing a cam, it’s important to check the compatibility of the camshaft with the remainder of the valvetrain components. Lifters must be replaced with flat tappet cams to ensure that they wear in correctly together, but it is not necessary to upgrade other valvetrain components as long as they have the ability to work together. “Things to confirm include spring travel and pressure, rocker arm travel, and rocker arm-to-valve cover clearance,” Knight says. For extended camshaft life, cams should not be run with more than the recommended open valve spring pressure. However, it is always a good idea to remove inner springs to reduce break-in 78

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

load. The inner springs can then be reinstalled after break-in is complete. Once you’ve determined which parts you will be running, you’ll want to choose a breakin oil with the correct amount of zinc. Due to EPA regulations, zinc has been removed from current specification oils in large quantities. That means you’ll want to grab something like Crane Cams 10W-40 or one of Driven Racing Oil’s break-in formulas. Knight also advises the use of Crane’s SuperLube Break-in Concentrate for the initial start-up to provide an extra measure of protection. Following the proper flat tappet camshaft break-in procedure is more critical than ever in both hydraulic and mechanical flat tappet camshafts. In fact, the most critical time in the life of a flat tappet cam is the first 20 minutes of break-in, when the bottoms of the tappets mate with the cam lobes. It is also recommended that after the initial 20-minute break-in period, the oil should be drained and filled again with break-in oil. The oil filter should also be changed at this time. We kind of put the cart in front of the horse so lets go back to a few tips on installing your new cam and lifters.

Prior to installing the camshaft and lifters, wash them thoroughly in clean mineral spirits to remove the rust preventative that is placed on the cam prior to shipping. It’s actually a good idea to clean any engine part before installing it. Now it’s finally time for installation. It’s important to avoid “pumping up” hydraulic lifters before use, as this can cause them to hold a valve opening during engine cranking, causing low compression. This will delay engine start-up and is extremely detrimental to proper break-in. Just before installation coat the bottom of the lifters, cam lobes, and the dis-

Apply a liberal amount of the cam break-in lube to each lobe and the distributor gear during installation. Also coat the gears when installing the distributor.

tributor gear with a moly lube that is included with most valvetrain parts. The next step is setting valve lash or lifter preload. There are lots of good articles and YouTube videos available if you don’t know how. You’ll want to try to minimize the number of times you rotate the engine during this process, as excessive rotations can displace the moly paste from the lobes and lifters. If possible, it’s a good idea to prime the oil system as well. When priming, rotate the engine at least one complete revolution to ensure oil gets to all of the valvetrain components. Valve covers should be off to ensure that all rockers are oiling. Preset the ignition timing to start the engine at a fast idle. It is important that the static ignition timing is as close as possible, and if the engine has a carburetor, it should be filled with fuel. This is because the engine needs to start quickly without excessive cranking to ensure immediate lubrication to the cam lobes. Now it’s time to start the engine, where you’ll immediately want to bring it to 3,000 rpm. Timing should be adjusted, as closely as possible, to reduce excessive heat or load during break-in. Get the engine running fairly smoothly and vary the engine speed from 15003000 rpm in a slow-to-moderate acceleration/deceleration cycle. “By varying the rpm, the oil splash will be distributed more evenly throughout the engine, especially towards the cam and lifters,” Knight explains. During this time, be sure to look for any leaks and check out any unusual noises. If something doesn’t sound right, shut the engine off and find the source of the noise.

Priming the oil system is an important step to ensure oil is pumped throughout the engine and valvetrain. Always rotate the engine at least one revolution.

Upon restart, resume the high-idlespeed cycling. Continue to vary breakin speed for 20–30 minutes. This is necessary to provide proper lifter rotation, which mates each lifter to its lobe. Should the engine need to be shut down for any reason, upon re-start it should be immediately brought back to 3000 rpm and the break-in continued for a total run time of 20-30 minutes. Also, due to the design of flat tappet camshaft lobes (both hydraulic and mechanical) the pushrods should be spinning during break-in: This is an indication that the lifter is also spinning. If you are able to view the pushrods and don’t see one spinning, stop the engine immediately and find the cause. The final step is to let the engine cool, then drain the crankcase and dispose of the oil and oil filter. Refill the crankcase with a premium, flat tappet-dedicated petroleum-based oil, not a synthetic oil. At this point, the break-in is complete and you can drive the vehicle in a normal manner. The folks at Crane recommend changing the oil and filter after 500 miles. You might want to put another 5,000 miles on the cam before switching to a synthetic, if that is the oil you prefer. However, there is one critical component to remember when it comes to choosing an oil. “Once your flat tappet cam and lifters are broken in, you must continue to use an oil designed for flat tappet applications for the life of the combination,” Knight stresses. “Too many times we see folks successfully break in a cam, then afterward change to a conventional modern oil that cannot support the loading. This promptly wears the cam and lifters out.” If you are upgrading other valvetrain components they do not necessar-

What about roller valvetrains? As a point of reference, Knight also mentions that roller cams do not require any break-in. However, it is advisable to clean the lifters thoroughly to remove the preservative grease from the needles and allow them to air dry. Then you’ll want to soak the lifters in whatever oil you’ll be using in the engine. If they are hydraulic rollers, just soak the wheel area as you do not want them to be pumped up with oil for initial adjustment. Also, although oil with zinc content is not considered mandatory with roller lifters, it certainly is not harmful. You still want to break in the engine, ensuring the rings seat properly and other rubbing surfaces mate together. It’s a good idea to change the oil after 500 miles as well. Check valve lash or lifter preload, and inspect the springs, retainers, and rocker arms while you have the valve covers off.

ily need to go through the same type of rigorous break-in process. But it makes sense to install all components at the same time, remembering to clean and lubricate each one and taking care to install them properly. If you are just upgrading cam and lifters, be sure to examine your rockers, springs, pushrods, and other valvetrain components for wear, and replace any that show signs of stress. Flat tappet valvetrain break-in is actually a relatively simple process, yet one of the most important parts of ensuring your street rod performs optimally each time it hits the highway. SRL Source: Crane Cams, cranecams.com

STREETRODLIFE.COM

Ed Erhardt

Each issue we like to highlight an individual who represents a true street rodder. The kind of person with passion for the street rod hobby by helping fellow enthusiasts with their projects, lending a hand at shows, and just being a thoughtful, cool person. This month, we’re happy to introduce you to Ed Erhardt of Hernando, Mississippi. Ed’s excitement about cars started with his first car, a ’67 Camaro. It was a plain-jane Camaro to start, but soon was treated to a 4-barrel carb and a 4-speed in place of the original Powerglide. He took his future wife of 43-years on their first date in that Camaro — to the dragstrip! Soon though, the Army called Ed’s number and the Camaro was sold. Two years later he was out of the service and into the Iron Workers Local 167 as an apprentice, where he continued through retirement. During all those years, the plan was to always replace the Camaro, but family, home, and life duties prevailed. Ed took in a lot of car shows, cruise nights, helped pals with their cars, and waited for his chance. Finally, as empty-nesters and retirees, Ed was able to feed his hunger for his own projects. And he’s making up for lost time. After building a good size shop in the backyard, Ed has built a ’48 Chevy pickup for shows (he learned to drive in a ’53), has a ’34 Ford pickup as a daily driver, and is nearly finished with a ’48 Ford F5 ratrod-type build that includes a hand-fabbed chassis. Ed takes in as many regional shows and cruises as possible, and is quick to lend a hand to help with parking, promotion, or anywhere else the event needs help. In his backyard and back by the shop, Ed converted an old shed into a vintage service station complete with old signs, a pump, and classic interior. He built it to share with other hot rodders and a place to shoot photos of their cars. (Our sister title Gearheads4Life has shot a couple of cars there!) Now with two grown daughters and three grandkids in the picture, he enjoys attending shows with Addyson, his 10-year old granddaughter. She takes pictures of the cars and tells Ed which one is her favorite. She also has her own toolbox in the shop to lend a hand. His 4-year old grandson is also ready to get to some shows with Grandpa. Thanks for doing your part to keep the hobby rolling strong Ed! Got someone to nominate for a Street Rod Lifer? Send us a note at tryden@xcelerationmedia.com explaining why you’re nominating them.

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

Don’t Drive Until You’ve DRIVEN LONG PERIODS OF STORAGE CAN DAMAGE OIL & FUEL SYSTEMS.

Street rods make their own rules. They stand apart in age, performance, and seasonal enjoyment and these unique features demand qualities that today’s fuels and lubricants simply do not possess. Putting “the motor ahead of the molecule,” Driven Racing Oil has specifically formulated products that street rodders can count on to protect their cherished machines. The Zinc-fortified Driven Hot Rod Oil and system-cleansing Driven Carb Defender fuel additive were both specially developed for street rods and older engines.

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Modern engines and oils have done a great job of reducing emissions and protecting sensitive emissions equipment. However, these reduced emissions come at the expense of traditional wear additives like Zinc Dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) in modern oils. Simply put, you shouldn’t use modern oils in older style engines. Driven Hot Rod Oil is specifically formulated with high levels of ZDDP to protect older engines. Since many of them are not driven daily, Hot Rod Oil has also added unique military-spec rust and corrosion inhibitors to prevent dry starting and corrosion caused during storage. Driven Hot Rod Oil meets the latest SAE J300 Cold Cranking requirements and passed a rigorous 1000-hour severe storage simulation test with NO signs of rust or corrosion. Reduced cold start wear means longer engine life.

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The growing trend of using Ethanol to bring lower-rated fuels to a higher octane creates problems even under regular usage. Lower octane hydrocarbons are typically less stable and more likely to varnish. Added Ethanol not only absorbs water by nature, it’s chemically corrosive to carburetor metals like Aluminum and Zinc. Independently tested, Driven Carb Defender was proven to outperform national leading additive brands in cleaning and preventing deposits, inhibiting fuel system corrosion, and stabilizing fuel, all without changing the properties of the fuel. Whether in use or in storage, Driven’s Carb Defender’s cleans, protects, and stabilizes like no other. It restores performance, extends engine life, and eliminates costly repairs - and that means more miles of fun. • E85 corrosion prevention

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EVENT COVERAGE

STREET MACHINE NATIONALS – POMONA

GEARHEAD Congratulations to Troy Martin for scoring SRL's Editor's Pick award with his '53 Ranch Wagon.

he Street Machine and Muscle Car Nationals at the Pomona, California, Fairplex experienced record setting heat, but it was matched by the hot muscle machines that made the second annual event. This event was the first of four Street Machine Nationals taking place this year and took place in the middle of March, where the greater Los Angeles climate is generally ripe for cruising. Weather aside, there were still plenty of incredibly detailed rods and muscle cars in attendance to check out, along with plenty of manufacturers to pay a visit, dyno runs, and even an autocross. 82

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WINNER

We were at the Pomona Nationals and our Senior Tech Editor, Jeff Smith, who pens a number of stories for Xceleration Media titles, had the duty of selecting the Editor’s Choice for Street Rod Life which went to Troy Martin’s 1953 Ranch Wagon. The next event for the Street Machine Nationals Summer Series takes place June 26–28 at the place that started it all, Du Quoin, Illinois. If you’d like a chance to win a Street Rod Life Power Pack Giveaway with entry and VIP parking plus big money certficates from the COMP Performance Group, post a shot of your rod on our Facebook page. We’ll see you in June! SRL streetmachinenationals.net

STREETRODLIFE.COM

50 end g e L f o s r a e y

t’s amazing how our hobby can bring people together. Memphis has a long history of being at the forefront of racing technology, and a significant portion of that stems from three friends who had enough passion for drag racing to start a company called Racing Head Service. A company that endures today. The local drag racing culture of Memphis was a hotbed of activity since the earliest of days, with the action at Lakeland Dragstrip putting the city on the map as the “Traction Capital of the South.” While the big names of Top Fuel, A/FX, and wide-open match racing stole the limelight, the epic battles being waged in the lower classes were the stuff of folklore and spawned many businesses and notable careers. Within the tight confines of NHRA’s Stock and Jr. Stock class rules, where weight and cubic inch ratios were the equalizer, building engines and driving techniques quickly evolved into an all out free-for-all of experimentation and talent. Heavier cars with smaller motors, many driven to and from the tracks, packed the lanes and speed shop bays. Three racers who preferred early-’50s Oldsmobiles quickly found common ground and friendship at the track. John McWhirter, Ivars Smiltnieks, and Bob Woodward were frequent winners in their classes, and talented engine builders who discovered hidden ways to make their “stock” engines even faster. 84

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John McWhirter, one of the founders of Racing Head Service (RHS), stands at a mill working on a Chevy cylinder head in late 1970. The company has gone through some changes over the past 50 years, but one thing has remained a constant, creating high-quality products.

STREETRODLIFE.COMâ&#x20AC;&#x192;

John had a great job as a mechanical engineer in the foundry portion of the local International Harvester plant. Ivars worked rebuilding engines for Precision Motorworks in Memphis. Bob also worked for International Harvester, but was part of a large group of local guys who were frequently laid off and re-hired as contracts and work flow fluctuated. With a mutual interest in racing, they quickly discovered the art of head porting and that trick valve jobs could unlock a lot of power hidden within their Oldsmobiles. They found the Oldsmobiles responded well to even minor changes, and the speed tricks they learned could be applied to other engines like Chevy small blocks, Pontiacs, and Fords. Racers increasingly sought them out to work their magic as demand for their services swelled. In 1967 they bought a head resurfacing machine, a dip tank, and other vital equipment, and started Racing Head Service in the basement of Ivar’s house. They had the caustic tank vented up through the roof — one can only imagine what his wife thought of that. Bob was in the middle of a layoff from International Harvester, and Ivars quit his job so they both could work full time. John, on the other hand, had a nice job and a small family, so he worked long hours in the evenings for a while before making the leap to full time. Business went well and soon they were able to rent a real shop in town. The trick headwork expanded into machining and building engines, and a new opportunity arose. Customers who came in for machine work also had a need for other parts like headers and intakes, and Woodward pushed to expand RHS into a speed shop. A new location near Elvis Presley Boulevard in 1969 was a good fit for the growth, featuring the machine shop in back and a new speed shop up front. The guys also campaigned three or four drag cars at a time, winning frequently. Business boomed and they opened additional speed shops in Little Rock, Arkansas, and Jackson, Mississippi, to fill the demand. They quickly outgrew the tiny Memphis facility as the speed shop inventory began stacking up everywhere, including their own houses. 86

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A move into a bigger building near the Memphis airport brought on the next phase of RHS’s history, as they evolved into one of the first mail-order parts warehouse businesses. RHS became an integrated racing company offering parts, machine shop services, and even complete turn-key engines to racers. RHS were among the first to offer “crate engines,” known as High Energy engines, and did very well until GM introduced its Target Master crate engines in the mid-90s. The Target Master engines were built on GM’s large production lines, were relatively inexpensive, and came with a warranty. In the public’s eye that was hard to beat, even if they were inferior in quality. Realizing a need to supplement its heads and head work with proper camshafts, RHS created Cam Dynamics in 1972. This was made possible by recruiting Memphis native, Mark Heffington, and Tom Woitesek away from Crane Cams in Florida. Mark was a talented cam designer, and Tom had been Crane’s shop foreman who knew how to staff and run the equipment. Around this time Ivar’s brother, Russ, also joined the group, running the speed shop in Little Rock, and local racer Scooter Brothers became a minor owner in the RHS company. Fellow Olds racer Gordon Holloway also joined the staff in 1972, after yet another layoff at Borg Warner. He had previously sold RHS his old ’51 Oldsmobile race car. The company meticulously blueprinted the engine to NHRA’s specs and began winning races. The engine was eventually put into another Olds, one of several they successfully raced into the early 1970s, doing battle in a sea of much newer Camaros and Mustangs. The company thrived, breaking new ground into circle track racing and then other forms of motorsports.

RHS successfully raced early Oldsmobiles into the 1970s. Their blueprinted engines and power secrets worked well inside the tight confines of the NHRA Stocker classes. Car 943 was the “Clod Buster,” a dig at another local racer named Claude who ran a Jenkins-prepped ’55 Chevy. Another RHS car was called the Fat Nickel.

The racers and business partners restructured in 1975 after a series of disagreements, as many businesses with multiple owners often have. In 1976 RHS ceased their partnership with Cam Dynamics, (which would eventually go to Crane Cams) and launched Competition Cams. RHS and Competition Cams combined forces in one building before expanding into two separate facilities across the street from each other. The one-two punch of RHS and Competition Cams dominated NHRA and short track competition throughout the ’80s with their racing heads, valve train components, and engines. However, the parts business began to whither in the early ’80s and RHS slowly phased out its warehouses. In 1988 Ivars wanted to return to RHS (from COMP Cams), and Scooter Brothers wanted to go from RHS to COMP. A deal was worked out and Smiltnieks’s portion of Comp Cams was exchanged for ownership of RHS. Scooter traded his stock in RHS to Ivars for a small part of COMP. While COMP continued to thrive, RHS experienced a downturn in the late ’90s, and along with

the health deterioration of Smiltnieks and his untimely passing, RHS fell into dormancy. With many previous RHS staff members still working at Competition Cams, which had then expanded into the Comp Performance Group under Scooter Brothers, Ron Coleman, and Tom Woitesek (who retired in 1995), the decision was made to revive the company in 2002. They began investing machinery and technology back into RHS, even casting its own heads, and today lead the way once again, with ground-breaking cylinder heads, which includes the most advanced engine block ever built for GM LS engines. From an enthusiastic business started by a couple of Oldsmobile-racing friends, to an innovator of mail-order parts and crate engines, to an industry-domination of drag and circle track racing, to a decline, and then a rebirth with a spectacular comeback, RHS has woven fifty years of legend and has a heck of a tale to tell — one that is far from being finished — as they continue blazing new trails into the future. SRL Source: Racing Head Service, racingheadservice.com

SHOP TOUR

LEGENS HOT ROD SHOP

A small town shop building big time cars

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

I Words/Photos Shawn Brereton, Brandon Flannery

f you follow hot rods then you have probably heard the names of Boyd Coddigton, Chip Foose, Troy Trepanier, and Bobby Alloway, even if you don’t know what they built. Well there is another guy who is in the same echelon, and it’s time you knew about him. His name is Steve Legens. He isn’t new to the hobby — he’s been building high-quality hot rods out of his shop in rural Martin, Tennessee, since before Legens Hot Rod Shop officially opened its doors in 1991. Legens was born in the tiny nearby town of Dresden, Tennessee, and has remained in the area his whole life. His background is as a tool and die man making parts for the OEM’s in Detroit and various other industries, but on the side he would supplement his income building cars out of his father-in-law’s barn. STREETRODLIFE.COM

As business picked up, he found that cars were taking up more and more of his time, so he either had to give up sleep or make a critical decision. Ultimately, he chose the right path by opening Legens Hot Rods. He used his father-in-law’s barn for the first four years before moving his operations to a much more suitable 7,200-square-foot facility, where you will find him today. He tells us he is at another decision point — expand or turn customers away — and he is not the type to disappoint anyone. You can tell this just by talking with Steve for a few minutes. He is the type of guy who not only listens, but genuinely cares about what you are saying. To have talent is one thing, but it takes character to have success. Legens employs ten men full-time and a couple more part-time. Are there other people who can do what Legens team can do? Sure (well there aren’t many anymore), but it’s the attention to detail and the character of the men that has demanding customers coming back to his shop, trusting his team with their pride and joy. Just from talking to the guys in the shop, you could tell they are happy to be there. The light-hearted demeanor of the guys as they go about their business fabricating, sanding, and painting the ever-growing assortment of cars in the shop, feels like a group who is confident in the work they are performing. Legens has built a number of notable hot rods for high-profile clients such as George Poteet, including the latest, an understated black and white ’56 Chevy. It is one of those cars that 90

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if you don’t look closely, you will easily miss the modifications that have been made to the car. Some of the other top-quality builds by Legens: Hammerhead, a 1941 Wil-

lys Pickup that was a Great 8 finalist for the Ridler Award; Twistar, a 1933 Ford roadster that was a Street Rod of the year Finalist at Goodguys, and multiple other outstanding award winners.

With his history in die-making, there is virtually nothing Legens and his guys can’t create. Being in a small town like Martin, Legens has learned to be self-sufficient — they do it all-in house: chassis, body, fabrication, paint, and even interiors. Really the only thing that isn’t done in-house is engine building. Legens doesn’t build wild customs, but instead focuses on the details. You will often hear words like clean, subtle, and simple when someone is examining one of his creations. If something doesn’t flow with the character of the build, or seems out of place, Legens will often fabricate something that is more in synch with the style he is seeking. The heartbeat of Legens Hot Rod Shop flows through the tools they use. Every house must have a solid foundation, and every chassis must have a strong frame table in order to provide a solid foundation for the car. Legens managed to source the strongest frame table in the history of fab shops from none other than the Air Force. Before he left the die-making business he fabricated his own louver punch and English wheel, which should be able to withstand a F5 tornado. Obviously, he has an abundance

CARS

of dies to make just about any shape imaginable. One of the things he has become known for by insiders is the parts he builds. If his team needs a part (say a new grille), they will make a jig and fab up a new one. That way, once the part is perfected, they will be able to reproduce the product for other people who might be facing the same problem, which in turn can generate some extra income. Currently, Legens offers around 150 products. The best part about a Legens build is that they are not just museum pieces,

GEAR

they can be driven anywhere. The previously mentioned ’56 Chevy was driven by Legens on the Goodguys Hall of Fame Road Tour in September for Poteet. Legens had a blast getting to show off his latest creation, but most of all he enjoyed being able to hit the road in a hot rod. It is a testament to the man himself that such hot rod benefactors as Poteeet keep coming back to him for build after build. Be on the lookout for the Legens trailer at some of the larger events, and look for the guy with a warm smile and a southern accent. SRL

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TIMING IS EVERYTHING Setting the ignition timing isn’t as intimidating as it sounds

nce your engine is together and running, there are only a handful of adjustments you can make to dial-in its performance. These adjustments basically have to do with air/fuel delivery by tweaking the carb and the other is setting the ignition timing. The ignition timing is an extremely important setting and will have ramifications on how your engine performs and drives. As for setting the ignition timing, it’s as simple as just twisting the distributor 92

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around until you get the right timing setting at an idle right? Not quite, but adjusting the ignition timing is still easy to set and adjust. One of the most important aspects of checking and setting the ignition timing to keep in mind is one timing setting is not ideal for all of the engine’s operating conditions. Your engine may prefer 36 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) at 2,500 rpm, but during cranking and at idle, 36 degrees BTDC is not going to go over well with the starter.

To answer the need for ignition timing changes, most distributors incorporate a centrifugal advance assembly. This mechanism is made up of weights, springs, and in most cases, a way to limit the advance. As the distributor spins, the weights are moved out by centrifugal force, which in turn advances the ignition timing. We could get into an entire story on setting up the advance, but for now, we want you to understand that the timing must be checked at an idle and at higher rpm.

Crane offers an advanced ‘dial-back’ timing light with an LCD read out. It allows you to adjust and set the idle and total timing easily plus it even has a tach on the screen so you can confirm when the mechanical advance is all in.

Dial-back lights

Dial-back timing lights are helpful in checking the centrifugal advance and total timing, especially if your engine doesn’t have a degreed balancer. These lights have an internal adjustment that allows you to see the total advance at the TDC indicator. After checking and setting the idle timing, set the light to your the total timing value, 40 degrees for example, on the light and slowly increase the engine’s rpm. At first, you won’t see the indicator on the balancer, because it will be 40 degrees before top dead center (BTDC). As the rpm increases, the indicator on the balancer will become visible. If everything is set up properly, the indicator will align with the zero mark when your timing reaches 40 degrees.

40º

Degrees

30º

20º

10º

1000

2000

3000

4000

5000

6000

RPM

This chart illustrates a timing curve. See how the timing begins to advance as rpm increases? This is why you have to check the timing at idle and at higher rpm.

When setting the timing, you’ll need a timing light, which has an inductive pickup that clamps to the number-1 spark plug wire. This pickup senses when the spark travels through the plug wire, and makes the strobe of the timing light flash to show the position of the timing indicator on the balancer. As with most tools, there are several versions of timing lights available, and they can range from fairly cheap to upwards of a couple hundred dollars. If you’re shopping for a light, ask yourself what you’re looking to accomplish along with how much you can spend.

Checking idle, total timing

Before getting into setting up a distributor or checking the timing, there are a couple of definitions to clarify. Idle Timing: This refers to the timing when the engine is at an idle, which makes sense, because it should be checked at idle. This is also the amount of timing set during cranking and start up. Centrifugal Advance: This is the curve that occurs to advance the timing as rpm increases. There are generally two parts to the centrifugal (or mechanical) advance, including the rate that the timing advances, as well as how much the timing advances. Total Timing: This is the final point that the timing is able to reach. For instance, if you have the initial timing set at 8 degrees with an advance curve limited to 24 degrees, the total timing would be 32 degrees. Just how quickly this point is reached depends on the RPM, acceleration, and the chosen rate of advance. STREETRODLIFE.COM

Timing tips

Most factory applications didn’t come with a degreed balancer, and many factory pointers leave a lot to be desired. If you’re rebuilding your engine, you should go with a balancer with timing marks such as this Rattler from TCI. If not, you can consider a timing tape that easily applies to the balancer, but make sure to use one with the corresponding diameter or the timing setting will be off.

We found a battery-powered light offered by Powerhouse Products that fit our needs. First, our battery is in the trunk so not having to connect the light to 12 volts is a nice feature. Second, the Powerhouse timing light has a metal inductive pickup clamp, so you don’t have to worry about it melting on the exhaust manifold. Also, the strobe of the light is very bright and easy to view even in the sunlight. Once you have a timing light selected, you need to stick with your light. If you have the chance to tune your engine on a dyno or even a chassis dyno, always take your own timing light so things are kept consistent. Another thing to consider is the timing pointer and the timing mark on the balancer. Many balancers are only marked at top dead center, and most factory markers only read a few degrees each way. Using a balancer that has degree marks is important when checking the total timing at higher rpm. The other answer to a degreed balancer is to use a dial-back timing light. A dial-back light lets you set and monitor the total timing BTDC by inputting the target total timing, and we found 94

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With your trusty timing light in hand, you’re ready to get the distributor settled in place. Remember that the engine is going to be running and you’ll even be revving the engine, so always make sure to take the necessary safety precautions. Connect the inductive pickup to the number-1 plug wire. Make sure the wiring of the timing light does not get moved or pulled near moving components. If you are adjusting the distributor with the engine running, try to grab the base of the distributor to make adjustments. If you have a high-output ignition providing the fire, you’ll make a good ground source for the spark to run to. (In fact, maybe get a buddy to rotate the distributor while you watch the timing!) After getting the initial timing positioned, tighten the distributor’s holddown clamp, then check the total timing by revving the engine upwards to 3,000 rpm. You’ll see the timing mark advance. If the advance is not what you were thinking your total should be, you may need to adjust the centrifugal advance.

Many timing indicators leave a lot to be desired. This Pontiac sample is nice compared to some of the other factory pointers. We prefer to go with a more precise pointer such as this example from TCI.

a really useful model through Crane Cams. These lights are more expensive of course, but are the best way to check the idle and total timing without a degreed balancer. Having the proper ignition timing is imperative to your engine’s driveability

and performance. Be sure to check it at an idle, and again at higher rpm so you can see the timing advance and the total timing value. You’ll be happy and so will your engine. SRL Sources: Crane Cams, cranecams.com; TCI, tciauto.com; Powerhouse Products, powerhouseproducts.com

SCHEDULES EVENTS PLACES

HIT THE ROAD It’s a great time to be a street rodder! There have never been so many events, races, and avenues to attend . . . even as a spectator. Whether you’re into car shows, driving events, tours, or racing, there is something nearly every weekend. Here’s a few upcoming events to put on your calendar. If you have anything you want to tell us about — let us know at: tryden@xcelerationmedia.com

The Great Race This incredible event is a timed, controlled-speed endurance rally designed for classic, antique, and vintage automobiles. There are nine race segments over June 20–28 and runs from Kirkwood, Missouri, to Santa Monica, California.

June 20–28

Kirkwood Depot (downtown) Kirkwood, Missouri

Street Machine Nationals We’ll see you at each of the Street Machine Nationals which means you have a chance to get your car in the magazine or on the website! These events are open to all years, makes, and models as long as they’re powered by American iron. See you there. streetmachinenationals.com

June 26-28

Du Quoin Street Machine Nationals Du Quoin State Fairgrounds Du Quoin, Illinois

Sept 25-26

Springfield Fall Nationals Ozark Empire Fairgrounds Springfield, Missouri

July 17-19

Street Machine Nationals Minnesota State Fairgrounds St. Paul, Minnesota

greatrace.com

Hot Rod Hill Climb This is two events in one in Georgetown, Colorado; Friday’s Reliability Run and on Saturday is the Hill Climb. The climb is limited to early ‘50s period correct hot rods and engine combos with the goal of re-creating the scene from the mountain run in 1953 or 1954. The Reliability Run is for ’64 and earlier vehicles to run a 50-75 mile drive with big elevation changes and beautiful scenery. hotrodhillclimb.com

August 14–15

61st Annual Hot Rod Hill Climb Georgetown, Colorado

Mopar Nationals Three solid days of Mopar, Mopar, MOPAR! We’re talking a 50th celebration of anything from 1965, a tribute to the Challenger T/A and the AAR ’Cuda, drag racing, a judged car show, burnouts, young guns and more. It all unfolds on August 7–9 at National Trail Raceway outside of Columbus, Ohio. moparnats.org

August 7-9

National Trail Raceway Hebron, Ohio (east of Columbus)

Goodguys Rod and Custom Association The Rod and Custom Goodguys group is at full steam with their huge 4th of July show in Iowa followed the next weekend for their big PPG Nationals in Ohio (see you there). good-guys.com

June 12–14

National Street Rod Association The street rod group spans from Pennsylvania to Colorado with their four day nationals in Louisville, Kentucky. We’ll see you there too. nsra-usa.com

23rd East Coast Nationals Eastern States Exposition (“The Big E”) West Springfield, Massachusetts

June 5–7

July 3–5

June 26–28

24th Heartland Nationals Iowa State Fairgrounds Des Moines, Iowa

July 10–12

18th PPG Nationals Columbus, Ohio Expo Center Columbus, Ohio

York Expo Center York, Pennsylvania Colorado State Fairgrounds Pueblo, Colorado

August 6–9

Kentucky Exposition Center Louisville, Kentucky

Not able to attend a show? Want to see which cars were at what events? Not a problem. Head over to StreetRodLife.com and check out the Events tab for coverage, pics, and more. STREETRODLIFE.COM

Behind THE DOOR If we had a cool shop like Ed Erhardt's, we would get a lot less written, but more done on our projects. What a cool place to hang out. You can find out more about Ed’s shop in our Street Rod Lifer of the Month column on page 80.

This is Ed’s ’48 Chevy pickup he cruises to shows and the big events. He’s always leaned more to trucks and learned to drive in a similar Chevy.

This ’34 Ford pickup serves as Ed’s parts chaser and driver. Power comes from a ’54 Olds backed up with a TCI 700R4 trans.

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 2

Here Today. Here Tomorrow. Transmission companies come and go, and rarely manufacture their own parts. With almost 50 years under our belt we’re not going anywhere. We’ll be here tomorrow to stand behind our products and we’ll even refurbish transmissions and torque converters that we didn’t build. We manufacture most of our own components and staff our toll-free Trans Help™ line five days a week. Over the years TCI® has built and developed more high performance torque converters and transmissions than any local shop ever could. Each and every one goes through our legendary Triple Testing process and we continue to invest in technology to provide cutting-edge products that will last. Our success is not only based on dyno numbers, but repeated customer loyalty built through years of personal one-on-one contact. We think big, and act small.

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