Street Rod Life Winter 2015

WHERE LEGENDS LIVE NHRA HOT ROD REUNION

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WISH LIST NEW PRODUCTS FOR HOT RODDERS

’55 @ 60 TRI-FIVE NATIONALS

HOME-BUILT HAULER ’38 CHEVY DRAG TRUCK

LONGROOF LOVE ’61 CHEVY NOMAD

The asphalt jungle is a noisy place. Make sure you’re heard.

The streets are full of commotion and it’s easy to get run over unless you make some noise. The hard-hitting Thumpr™ Series from COMP Cams® will give your hot rod or street machine an aggressive note that lets them know you mean business. More than all bark and no bite, they were specifically designed to create impressive horsepower gains and broad torque curves while maintaining streetability.

From mild to wild, Thumpr™ offers three levels of thump to suit any engine: Thumpr™, Mutha Thumpr™, and the Big Mutha Thumpr™. Though nostalgic-sounding in note, the designs are compatible with the latest in valve train advances, including COMP® Beehive™ Valve Springs, Ultra Pro Magnum™ Roller Rockers, and Magnum Pushrods. EFI-compatible versions are also available. You choose the engine, Thumpr® will make it roar.

Spintron® and dyno tested Available for both carb and EFI Retro-fit hydraulic roller and hydraulic flat tappet versions GM - Ford - Chrysler - even Ford flathead and Buick nailhead

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Choose one of four levels of component-matched kits, including the all-inclusive K-Kit for a complete, trouble-free installation. Complete K-Kits include a camshaft, lifters, springs, timing chain set, valve stem seals, retainers, locks and assembly lube.

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CAM HELP ® 1.800.999.0853

Todd Ryden

tryden@xcelerationmedia.com

Looking forward to 2016

E

ver have a feeling that you can predict the future? In the middle of reviewing our fourth print issue of Street Rod Life (the one you’re looking at right now), I realized exactly where I will be on November 3. Even in more detail, I can tell you where I’ll be early that morning — sitting at a banquet table drinking coffee while learning what company and product just earned the SEMA Best New Street Rod Product of the Year.

The SEMA New Product Awards Breakfast in Las Vegas. In fact, this will be exactly the same spot I’ve been for 22 years.

Ouch! 22 SEMA shows. How did that happen?

For those of you that for some reason do not know about the Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA) show, it is the greatest gathering of automotive aftermarket parts and accessories in the world. In fact, if Las Vegas vaporized from the Earth that first week of November, it would be a long time before you could get cool new parts for your project. Unfortunately, the SEMA show is a trade-only affair.

To share some more of my clairvoyance-driven predictions, I also know that I’ll be walking down the chilly streets of downtown Indianapolis on December 10 for the opening breakfast of the Performance Racing Industry (PRI) show, just like I’ve been doing for two decades. Unfortunately, this is also a trade-only event, but we’ll keep you posted on all the great new racing components and news from that show as well — just type us in at StreetRodLife.com or connect with us on your favorite social media outlet!

Looking further into the new year, my future takes me to Orange County, California, at the end of January. I’ll be sitting across the coffee table from some of the best name manufacturers in the rodding industry.

When it comes to learning about products and upcoming trends the trade-only Media Trade Conference (MTC) is the best of the three events because we get to have one-on-one meetings with manufacturers. After three days your head comes out swimming with new story ideas, plans, projects and goals.

I should take a moment to apologize for bringing up three very cool, very important events that most of you cannot attend. SEMA, PRI, and the MTC are all winter events that are open only to those of us in the industry, but believe me, it’s all for the benefit our industry and hobby. These shows bring the entire industry together. It is where companies, and the media, learn about opportunities to create new products, where the competitive nature of designing the best new solution shines and is a place where issues within our hobby can be discussed — and resolved.

After these three events, the future kicks back in to shows, races, and cruises. There are so many things coming up that the future gets to predict. It will be a new year with loads of new shows and projects and planning. Will it be the Grand National Roadster Show, Detroit Autorama, Pomona Swap Meet, Scottsdale for Barrett Jackson, the Goodguys kick-off, or Lonestar Round Up or something else? Got any ideas to guide us into the future? Let me know, maybe we’ll come knocking!

Wherever we’ll be, you can stay connected with us on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, and whatever other technology comes up in the meantime! SRL

Staff Group Publisher Shawn Brereton Editorial Director

Todd Ryden

Senior Tech Editor

Jeff Smith

Tech Editor

Richard Holdener

Contributors Brandon Flannery Dan Hodgdon Louis Kimery Barry Kluczyk Rod Short Manufacturers Advertising Dave Ferrato Brett Underwood

504.237.5072 704.896.1959

For advertising inquiries call 901.260.5910.

Production

Hailey Douglas

Art

Jason Wommack Zach Tibbett

Street Rod Life is published quarterly to promote the growth of street rodding as well as recognize the parts and services from participating manufacturers. The magazine consists of dedicated information from partner companies with the mission of disseminating unfiltered editorial on companies, products and services directly to street rodders and fans.

Editorial content and advertisements for each issue can originate from partner companies participating in the magazine.

Street Rod Life is a hybrid of content that was originally published at StreetRodLife.com and original content that was created for this quarterly print magazine. Magazine distribution occurs through direct distribution from parent company Xceleration Media, its partner companies, and marquee events throughout the year.

Street Rod Life is a property of Xceleration Media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written consent from Xceleration Media. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.

Cover ON THE WHERE LEGEND

S LIVE NHRA HOT

Mike Kunzman’s ‘51 Merc packs a punch. See more starting on page 34.

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PUBLICATIO XCELERATI N OF ON MEDIA Vol. 1, No. 4

#StreetRodLife

WISH LIST NEW PRODU FOR HOT RODDECTS RS

’55 @ 60 TRI-FIVE NATIONALS

HOME-BUILT HAULER ’38 CHEVY DRAG TRUCK

LONGROOF LOVE ’61 CHEVY NOMAD 10/14/15 1:56 PM

INSIDE...

STREETRODLIFE.COM Vol. 1, No. 4

34

COVER STORY

DOWN LOW — NOT SLOW 1951 Mercury

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

14 A LEGACY REBORN 16 TRI-FIVE NATS 24 LOW MAD NOMAD 34 DOWN LOW — NOT SLOW 42 HUNTING RIG TO ROD 50 BUILDING AROUND WHEELS 58 GO WITH THE FLOW 74 WHEELS UP PICKUP 84 NEW ENGLAND REUNION 92 DAWSONVILLE HISTORIAN

01 FIRE IT UP 04 RPM REPORT 06 DIGITAL DETOUR 07 SOCIAL BUZZ 08 ROD SHOT 10 VIDEO PLAYLIST THE 12 INPASSENGER SEAT

The car that started it all for JEGS Celebrating the trio of Chevys 10-month build to perfection A kustom sled with muscle A forlorn Willys gets rebuilt

They had the wheels and a plan River City Speed lets us in

Trade show features The rodding scoop Cool sites to surf

Socialize with SRL

Dusk on the Beech

Drop the wrench and watch

80 CLUB SCENE 98 PUT IT TO THE TEST The club of Misfits, Inc. Easy LS trunnion upgrades

104 HIT THE ROAD

Cool places you need to be

OF 108 LIFER THE MONTH

Meet Jim McDonald

112 BEHIND THE DOOR Just a few collectibles and rods

Jeff Smith’s time capsule

’38 Chevy fueled by nostalgia A Nor’easter of a showdown

Gordon Pirkle has a story to tell

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

Even more features, videos, & event coverage

@StreetRodLife.com

106

CURRENT NEEDS

84 NHRA REUNION New England showdown

Selecting an alternator

TECH

22 FLATHEAD HARDWARE 30 COLUMN CHANGEOVER 32 BRAKE VALVES EXPLAINED 40 FORGED FOR STRENGTH 48 WINTERIZE YOUR ROD 56 TIRE AND WHEEL FITMENT 61 HOW COOL CAN YOU BE? 70 CHOOSE WISELY 78 RACK AND ROLL 82 MASTERING BRAKES 90 SHOCKING ADJUSTMENTS 96 LINKING UP 100 RETURNING THE FUEL 106 CURRENT NEEDS Fasten up your Flathead

ididit helps you say “I did it!”

Why and when to use brake valves Race tech wheels for the street Ready your rod to hibernate

Coker explains what to measure

Tips on selecting the right radiator Understanding cam designs

Rack and pinion steering for all The role of the master cylinder

Dial in rebound and compression

Lokar makes throttle linkage good Reasons to run a return line

22 HARDWARE

Fasten up your Flathead

Parts Store Rally Seat JEGS........................................................................ 64 Storage Defender Fuel & Oil Additives Driven Racing Oil......... 64 Bootlegger LS Camshafts Lunati.............................................. 64 Brand New ’57 Chevy Woodys Hot Rodz................................... 65 Steering Wheels Grant Products............................................... 65 ’32 Ford Stealth Tank Aeromotive............................................ 65 ’55–’56 Ford Chassis Fatman Frames...................................... 66 GM 4L80E/4L85E Chrome-Plated Stock-Depth Transmission Pan TCI........................................... 66 Door Seal Kits Steel Rubber..................................................... 67 Retro Look Batteries XS Power................................................ 68 Quick Steering for Mopars Borgeson....................................... 68 EZ Boy Interiors LeBaron.......................................................... 68 XFI Sportsman Roots Blower Dual Quad EFI System FAST...... 69

See more new products updated daily at StreetRodLife.com.

Selecting an alternator to keep up

STREETRODLIFE.COM

3

NEWS HOT TOPICS INFO

RPM REPORT

SPONSORED BY

Holley Performance merges with MSD Group In the music business, whenever a few of the best musicians get together for a benefit or jam session, they call it a “super group.” When it comes to the hot rod industry, when multiple brands come under the ownership of one company, should we call it a super company?

Either way, the merger of Holley Performance Products with the MSD Group is big. Really big! The El Paso, Texas-based conglomerate includes such iconic brands as MSD, Mr. Gasket, Accel, Superchips, Edge Products, Racepak, Mallory, Hays, QuickTime, and Lakewood. Holley, if you recall, already manufactures products under

Earl’s, NOS Nitrous Oxide Systems, Diablosport, Hooker Headers, Flowtech, Demon, and Weiand.

This merger makes one major super manufacturer.

“We are excited to have the opportunity to combine the awesome

legacies of these companies. The combination of these brands will provide our customers with the most complete offering of performance products in the industry,” said Holley President & CEO, Tom Tomlinson. “We are aggressively developing innovative new products at Holley and we’re going to continue to build upon the fine job the MSD Group is already doing with new products.”

Holley and MSD have created the largest band of high-performance brands in the industry. It’s going to be very exciting to see what the group develops with that kind of a brain-trust.

Stakeholders discuss Bonneville conditions The Utah Alliance and Save the Salt Coalition met with a variety of stakeholder groups at the Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah recently. The topic? To discuss potential solutions for restoring the historic racing venue. The Flats have been in the spotlight following the cancellation of five major racing events due to deteriorating salt conditions and weather.

In response, the Utah Alliance organized a tour of the area with government officials who oversee the Salt, mine operators, geologists, engineers, and other stakeholder groups.

The tour allowed the parties to then engage in follow-up discussions and begin identifying tangible restoration actions.

The groups indicated that no quick fixes existed to resolve the overall issues related to the condition of the salt, however, they believe that given the high level of cooperation, the historic speedway will eventually be restored to safe racing conditions.

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

NEWS HOT TOPICS INFO

RPM REPORT

Raybestos to give away a ’69 Mustang Raybestos Brakes has joined forces once again with Schwartz Performance to build their sixth giveaway car — a 1969 Ford Mustang!

“Raybestos and Mustang are the perfect match of history, leadership, and innovation. Working with the first class team

at Schwartz Performance, I don’t think there could be any better car for us to restore than this true American classic,” said Bruce Tartaglione, senior vice president of global sales and marketing for Brake Parts Inc. Raybestos Brakes and Schwartz Performance

teamed up last year, restoring the Raybestos 1971 RS Camaro, which was given away at the 2014 SEMA Show. The Mustang project will be based on Schwartz’s G-Machine full length chassis, running a Ford Coyote 302c.i. drivetrain, and will sport Raybestos Element3 brake pads and components.

Best of all, you’ll have a chance to win this incredible Mustang! The contest is not yet open for registration, but as soon as it goes live, we’ll let you know. For now, check out the build online at schwartzperformance.com, or follow Raybestos on their Facebook and Twitter feeds.

Driven Performance Brands acquired by Sentinel Capital

Introducing the American Tri-Five Association In the wake of the successful Tri-Five Nationals (covered in these pages), event organizers Woody’s Hot Rodz, and sponsor Danchuk Manufacturing, unveiled a new enthusiast organization.

The American Tri-Five Association is now up and cruising with a mission of

“Staying True to Tri-Fives” as its primary goal.

Members will be eligible for parts discounts from favorite vendors, insurance discounts from Heacock Classic Car Insurance, discounted entry to the 2016 Danchuk Tri-Five Nationals and more. Check them out at americantrifive.com.

Keep up to date with automotive news and recent trends at StreetRodLife.com.

Another group of wellknown racing and rodding brands, called Driven Performance Brands, was recently acquired by the private equity firm, Sentinel Capital. The companies include Flowmaster, B&M Racing and Performance, Hurst Shifters, Hurst Driveline Conversions, and Dinan Engineering.

“We are very pleased to partner with Sentinel as we set our course towards future success,” said DPB CEO Brian Appelgate.

STREETRODLIFE.COM

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SITES APPS FORUMS TRENDS

DIGITAL DETOUR Google and other search engines can be very useful at time, or they send you spiraling into a black hole of useless ads and sales sites. We searched for a few sites and forums that have been useful to us and thought we’d pass them on to you. If you have any favorites that could help your fellow rodders, please let us know at tryden@xcelerationmedia.com.

APPs

OF OUR EYE

Websites Wallace Racing

Want to figure out what your 1/8th et equates to on a full 1,320-ft pass? How about a gear ratio/speed, or even ideal header tube length? This website is chock full of different performance calculators that will have you clicking and learning info you didn’t even know existed!

wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

Consignment for Classics

Cruising websites to find your next ride or project? This site has hundreds – and adds new vehicles constantly. Don’t have time to sell your ride to fund the new project?

These guys can set you up on a consignment and get national attention for a sale.

Automotive Diagnosis & Repair

Need a freshener on how to check an A/C system? What about differences between brake systems with ABS or traction control?

This site has great information about diagnosing and solving issues with your vehicle.

aa1car.com

Desktop Testing

For builders and tech-heads that want to virtually spec out an engine before building it, here’s a site for you. There’s a free download that provides a lot of great details and specs, but the pro version (pay model) is loaded with much more.

virtualengine2000.com

gatewayclassiccars.com

Forums Club Hot Rod

If you want to show off that new big block build, or want an opinion on what suspension system works best under a daily driven street rod, this forum has plenty of input from your street rod peers with a forum to fit anyone’s auto-quirks. There’s even a special area for you Deuce guys!

clubhotrod.com

A-Body Heaven

Chances are you’ve been to this site if you have a Mopar A-body, especially with an inline-6. Identification codes and info, performance builds, wiring diagrams, and a good list of parts and pieces are abundant at SlantSix.

slantsix.org/forum

Street rodding news at your fingertips Street Rod Life has made it as easy as possible for you to receive the information you are looking for in the format you feel most comfortable with.

Whether you get your information on a laptop, tablet, or your phone,

6

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

we’ve got you covered so you can get the latest street rod information straight from the source.

Our content is updated daily, so check often with Street Rod Life through any of the social media options on the right.

Fabricators Dream

When you want to drool over what people can create with a vision, this place has plenty. Not just for hot rods, there are threads for off-roading, drag racing, nearly every type of automotive fabrication.

Get ideas for your project and learn how to do it yourself!

Giggle Gas Basics

This useful forum covers all the basics and advanced rules, tips and tricks for different nitrous applications. A blast of giggle juice can be a huge rush and you can learn how to enjoy a shot while keeping your engine safe and sound.

thefabforums.com

FACEBOOK

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youtube.com/StreetRodLife INSTAGRAM

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forum.nitrous-advice.org

FACEBOOK TWITTER MULTIMEDIA

SOCIAL SPIN

#StreetRodLife

Be Social! Find us on Instagram, and hashtag #StreetRodLife on all your favorite car show photos, racing shots, and just plain ol’ cool stuff that we all dig… or even give us a shoutout @StreetRodLife to share something and we might even repost it.

Sun sets on another season

Beech Bend Raceway in Bowling Green, Kentucky, is one of the best venues in the United States for a car show and drag racing.

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

RACING PRODUCTS ENTERTAINMENT

VIDEO PLAYLIST Video Playlist consists of interesting videos we came across on the Internet. Whether historical, funny, dramatic, or technical, we thought they might be of interest to our street rod community.

Scan QR Code to watch now!

Dancing with the devil

Join us as we travel to Clarksdale, Mississippi, to search for the “real” devil’s crossroads. Hear from local bluesman Josh “Razorblade” Stewart and documentarian Roger Stolle. Will the Devil show up? bit.ly/GH4LDevilsCrossroads

Chrysler Voyager burnout

You can pretty much tell what this is going to entail… youtu.be/dVxT19OT6nk

Great drag racing saves

10 killer saves from various race tracks across the US, including everything from Pro Mod to Drag Radial. Luck or skill? Probably both. youtu.be/LMGAqchHh1w

More VW smoke

There’s nothing clean about this VW bus burnout! youtu.be/WAlnQ2YuuL8

Cool interview

Interview with Andrew Murray, of Murray Brothers Garage, about how he built the perfect hot rod setup for not only runs at the Bonneville Salt Flats but also daily drives in his Connecticut home. youtu.be/hzZfLs8RvBo

SIGN UP TO KEEP UP

Subscribe to our YouTube channel to keep up with our original and curated video content that is updated frequently by the Street Rod Life editorial staff. youtube.com/StreetRodLife

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

Edsel Ford’s ’34 Ford Speedster Stunning one-off build and restoration

youtu.be/JIpizT6941g

79-93 Mustang FR40037SC with New Spray Chrome Option

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63-85 GM FR1108C 170 Amp FR1109C 240 Amp Die Cast w/Chrome Housing 6 Phase 170 or 240 Amp High Output Alternator with 1 wire regulator and internal cooling fans.

Don’t Forget The Accessories

Universal Joints

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Murphy’s law Editor’s Note: This month we pulled Jeff Smith away from his duties as the Editor of Power & Performance News (our sister publication) to fill us in on a time capsule in the form of a ’57 Chevy. This particular ’57 dates back to the 1975, before Jeff made the move to California to work with Petersen Publishing on Car Craft magazine.

B

ob Cryder and I were friends after high school and we were both serious gearheads. He and another friend, Tom Sorenson, partnered up to build a ’57 Chevy drag car that they named Murphy’s Law because it seemed like it lived up to its name almost every time we ran the car. I was not a partner, but I volunteered considerable time, my limited talents, and zero money to help with the car. This was in the summer of 1974 and I was trying to save every dime because I had registered at Iowa State University in the fall and was staring at a serious tuition bill for four years.

After racing the car for two years, Bob and Tom sold it to a guy in a neighboring town, but later Bob bought it back after the new owner didn’t touch it. In the usual case of postponed projects, The Murph was parked where it sat for the next 40 years.

Imagine my surprise to get a call from Bob not too long ago to talk about getting the old ’57 back together and running. During my next visit to my hometown of Boone, Iowa, I stopped to visit Bob and see the car in person — what a trip!

The Murph is like a time capsule straight out of 1975. We raced occasionally at Eddyville Raceway south of Des Moines, but mainly we ran the car at North East Iowa Timing Association (NEITA) Raceway near Cedar Falls, which is now called Cedar Falls Raceway. Both of these were 1/8-mile tracks. NEITA was an American Hot Rod Association (AHRA) track in those days and the partners chose D/Hot Rod Formula 1 as our class.

Essentially this was close to NHRA’s Modified Eliminator back then as we were running a 331c.i. small-block Chevy with a set of Crane ported iron heads (nobody had aluminum small block heads back then), 12.5:1 compression TRW pop-up pistons, Mickey Thompson aluminum rods, and a Crane mechanical roller camshaft and valvetrain with a Pete Jackson gear drive.

The Formula designation was AHRA’s way of quickly identifying the induction system. If I remember correctly, Formula

with Jeff Smith

1 was two four-barrels on a tunnel ram, Formula 2 was a single four-barrel carb and Formula 3 was a single two-barrel. The Murph’s induction was a tunnel ram with a pair of the classic 660-cfm center-squirt carburetors that Bill “Grumpy” Jenkins (our hero) made famous. Behind the engine was a Liberty-modified Borg-Warner Super T-10 four-speed, a Long-style clutch (whose origins I don’t remember), and in the back was a big Olds rearend with a set of killer 6.14:1 gears.

We had plenty of adventures with the car. Our initial outing ended quickly when the big slicks did their job. But instead of launching the car, the weak link revealed itself and our housing rotated around the leaf springs and neatly snapped off the driveshaft. We learned to reinforce the leaf spring mounts to prevent housing rotation, which later led to a set of wheelie bars when the car finally did hook.

One problem I remember was particularly vexing. We were using one of the new, high-tech ACCEL Breakerless Electronic Ignition (BEI) distributors and the timing kept retarding at high rpm.

ACCEL said there was nothing wrong with its ignition, and were right because the timing would retard even with a dual-point distributor in the engine. We finally just over-advanced the timing so it would retard back at high rpm to where we wanted it and that was our way of solving the issue. Years later I learned to put a button on the nose of a roller cam to prevent cam walk that will cause the timing to retard. That was an “a-ha” moment.

We raced The Murph for two years and I don’t think we ever made it past first round. Even though we were not very successful, we had a great time. We were also in the company of future stars. Tommy “Nine Lives” Johnson lived in Oskaloosa, and we eventually became friends when I did a story on his son, Tommy, Jr., who is now a successful Funny Car driver.

I also remember a race where Warren Johnson towed down from Minnesota with a black big-block Camaro. Here was a guy that we’d read about in the magazines, just as he was about to debut in Pro Stock, and we were racing at the same track in this little Iowa town. We were part of the show and it was grand. That experience probably helped me land my first job fresh out of college with Car Craft magazine in 1979.

For now, The Murph still sits. Bob and I have talked about reassembling his treasure, even though we wouldn’t race it since it would need a raft of safety gear that would tarnish its historic patina. But reassembling that small block (with steel rather than aluminum rods) with a big roller cam and the tunnel ram would be awesome. There might even be a couple of burnouts in its future. Who knows? SRL The Murph as it looks today, which is exactly how it looked in 1975 complete with a fiberglass-tilt front end, stock front suspension, and Center Line wheels. Tom Sorenson worked at the NAPA store in Boone, so we had a small sponsorship.

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FROM THE A recreation of the drag car that started the long line of JEGS racing and history

L

ike his brothers, John, Troy, and Jeg Jr., Mike Coughlin has continued the family tradition of drag racing started by his father, Jeg Sr. in the early years of the sport. Mike is also the “family history buff ” when it comes to JEGS racing.

Jeg Sr. raced many cars throughout the 1950s with numerous wins, and finally built a dedicated race car — a ’55 Chevy 150 sedan gasser — to compete in NHRA (D/GS) racing. The nose-up ’55 was powered by a small block with a 471 blower on a Weiand intake. Jeg had quite a bit of success with the car during the 1960–1961 seasons, but like most race cars from back in the day, it was sold off for another car: In this case, a ’34 coupe with a small-block Chevy to run in B/Gas the following year.

As the family historian, Mike wanted to find the original ’55 and bring it home, but he’s never been able to locate it. More than likely, it was used up over the racing years and put to pasture (i.e., the scrap yard). Undeterred, he set out to build a tribute car, taking a year and a half to complete.

Initially, an original ’55 Chevy was going to be purchased to recreate the legendary race car. However, Mike’s friends at Woody’s Hot Rodz offered an attractive alternative — a reproduction ’55 Chevy body. After discussing all of the options, a deal was made, and the 18-month build commenced. As for the powertrain and other components it takes to build a drag car, 14

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

Words / Photos Josh Quellhorst

care to guess where the parts all came from?

The new steel body rests on top of a Woody’s Gasser chassis with a straight axle up front, capped by a set of JEGS power disc brakes. The rear is held up by leaf springs on top of a Currie Ford 9-inch rear end, with a set of Rocket Retro wheels and Coker Firestone Vintage tires providing the right fit and look.

Under the hood lies a Chevrolet Performance ZZ4 short block with JEGS aluminum cylinder heads. It is topped off with an eBaysourced vintage GMC 4-71 blower on a Weiand intake — the same setup Jeg used back in 1960. A pair of Edelbrock supercharger carbs sit on top of the blower and a homemade aluminum air foil was replicated. An Optima battery delivers 12 volts and Pertronix provides the spark through its electronic version of a points-style distributor to keep the vintage vibe. Fuel is pumped by an Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump, pulling gas from the Jaz 10-gallon fuel cell.

One of the most difficult parts of the engine build was the pulley system to make everything line up and work properly.

There are not many options when using a 4-71 GMC blower and the original car had a custom-fabricated setup. The solution was to use a Dedenbear vintage-looking electric water pump, Cragar aluminum pulleys, a blower drive from Waldon Speed Shop and an East Coast Electric full-size alternator to make everything work together.

The stout small block is cooled by a JEGS down-flow radiator and a pair of electric fans. Exhaust exits via a set of Hooker Super Comp fenderwell-exit headers and on to a set of Dynomax Thrush Mad Hot Mufflers with chrome turn-downs.

They did add a bit of 21st century technology with a set of JEGS electric exhaust cut-outs. Now opening the headers is as easy as flipping a switch.

The no-frills interior is fit with a Woody’s Hot Rodz reproduction dash with vintage Stewart Warner gauges. A Flaming River black powder-coated steering column and manual gear box link up to a vintage Grant steering wheel. Since this was built as a cruiser more than racer, Dynamat insulation was placed throughout to help keep things cooler and quieter. A Hurst shifter commands the Richmond T-10 4-speed transmis-

sion. A 4-point roll cage was installed along with aluminum interior panels. The lucky passengers are strapped into the Scat low-back seats by way of Simpson latch-style 5-point harnesses.

The ’55 finally made it home where Jeg Sr. saw it for the first time. “Wow, I can’t believe that,” he gleamed while sitting inside reminiscing about the fun and experiences he had in the original ’55 Gasser. The rest of the Coughlin family was just as excited and now they have a terrific piece of history to enjoy and share with future generations. SRL Source: JEGS, jegs.com

STREETRODLIFE.COM

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EVENT COVERAGE

TRI-FIVE NATIONALS

Words / Photos Louis Kimery

T

he popularity of 1955–1957 Chevrolets has been firmly established with a wide variety of auto enthusiasts over the years. Ever since the first examples rolled out with the all-new 265c.i. engine, the “hot one” has been a hit with each succeeding generation of Chevy enthusiasts. Chevy went from being a stodgy “old man’s car,” to an exciting, youthful set of wheels with power and pizazz.

This trio of mid-’50s models, affectionately known as Tri-Fives, is embraced by thousands of enthusiasts and shows no signs of slowing down. In fact, its popularity has created a market of its own with restoration parts ranging from ball joints to completely new body assemblies. From complete restorations to straight axle drag cars and everything in between, you just can’t go wrong when building a ’55, ’56, or ’57 Chevy.

The folks at Woody’s Hot Rodz are big Tri-Five fans, and have gradually shifted the focus of their business to catering to the needs of the Tri-Five enthusiast. They also recognized the need for a national event that would celebrate the popularity of these cars, and with the 60th anniversary of the 1955 models, the

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This ’55 gasser looks like a model car kit that came to life.

timing seemed perfect. With the help of Danchuk Manufacturing the groundwork was laid for the first ever Tri-Five Nationals this past August 14–15, at Beech Bend Raceway in Bowling Green Kentucky.

Like any first year event, you never really know what to expect, especially an event that only caters to a three-year run of vehicles. But in this case we’re talking about three of the most popular vehicles in hot rodding and by the time of the show, nearly 2,000 Chevys filled the racetrack

grounds. The inaugural Tri-Five Nationals turned out to be the biggest gathering of ’55–’57 Chevy vehicles ever assembled.

The scene at Beech Bend Raceway was a feast for the eyes for any Tri-Five fan. Everywhere you looked was a sea of classic Chevys. From crusty survivor cars to the trickiest builds you’ll ever see. Once overlooked plain-vanilla models, like the 1955 210 sedans and 1957 150 sedans, seem to be the model of choice by top builders

Larry Burns of Greenup, Kentucky, won the Woody’s-built ’55 giveaway car. Lucky guy.

Jack Mabry of Memphis, Tennessee, sold his ’56 210 sedan in 1997 and immediately expressed seller’s remorse. He discovered the car again in 2010 at a car show and was able to finally buy it back just a couple weeks prior to the event.

these days. LS engines are proliferating throughout the small-block crowd, and you can build a brand new ’55 sedan or a ’57 convertible without ever touching a rusty refugee.

Gassers are the latest “old is new” trend, and Tri-Five Chevys fit the bill perfectly. There was a special display area for survivor gassers as well as recent builds that aim to be faithful to the gasser creed. There was also a nice selection of surviving ’55–’57 Chevy Jr. Stockers on hand to further enhance the pedigree these cars hold within the drag racing history books.

By Saturday evening, the Two-Lane Blacktop clones were gathered together and proudly displaying their street racer credentials.

If you were shopping for parts to finish your project, there were a good number of vendors with Tri-Five-specific wares and a sizeable swap meet featuring a huge selection of NOS parts from Volunteer State Chevy Parts. We’re talking super rare and otherwise unavailable parts including factory fuel injection units, fenders, hubcaps, and even Jam Handy Chevy promotional films!

A highlight of the event was a drawing for a ’55 Chevy that Woody’s Hot Rodz built just for this event. The blue twodoor sedan was constructed from Gold-

en Star Auto’s restoration body panels on an original frame. They kept us all in suspense until the closing ceremonies on Saturday night, but a very happy Larry Burns will be taking his new Tri-Five home to Greenup, Kentucky.

The gang from Woody’s Hot Rods and Danchuk Manufacturing went out of their way to make this one a must-do event going forward and even have the 2016 dates set for August 12–13. Put it on your calender and get your Tri-Five project finished for a trip to Bowling Green, Kentucky. SRL thetrifivenationals.com STREETRODLIFE.COM

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Scott Sullivan’s “Cheez Whizz” Pro Street ’55 Chevy hit the road in the late ’80s, and will still knock your socks off today. The khaki-colored rat motor is subtle, yet detailed, and remains a work of hot rodding art.

Wayne Jesel brought his fully restored “Yoo-Hoo-Too” junior stocker to the event.

There’s no choice but to have fun while cruising in a sweet ’55 Bel Air convertible.

Dan Swisher’s spectacular Swish-Air ’57 Chevy packs a jewel-like small block with 8-stack induction and a Jag independent rear suspension.

A few Tri-Five-era Corvettes made the scene including this Marv Ripes and John Diana stock eliminator terror from the early ’70s.

For more from this inaugural event head over to StreetRodLife.com and search “Tri Five Nationals.”

The McMaster & Gunning ’57 4-door hardtop was an NHRA record-holding Jr. Stocker, and was voted the “Best Survivor Car” at the event.

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Chris Sondles of Woody’s Hot Rodz (center) presents Jack and Ken Gunning with the “Best Survivor Car” award.

STUNNING APPEARANCE MEETS PERFORMANCE PERFECTION

TIRED OF A HARSH RIDE? VIKING DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS ALLOW INDEPENDENT

Looking for a set of new/old stock hubcaps with spinners? The stash of goodies from Volunteer State Chevy Parts, was the largest collection of NOS parts ever offered for sale.

ADJUSTMENT OF COMPRESSION AND REBOUND, WHICH IS THE ONLY WAY TO OPTIMIZE RIDE QUALITY.

DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS STARTING AT $169.95 MSRP!

Brian Baker’s beautiful 1955 sedan hides an extremely rare Arias headed Chevy.

• All Viking aluminum high performance shocks are double adjustable.

• 19 positions of independent compression and rebound adjustment (361 valving combinations) • Coil-over and smooth body available, with wide range of mounting configurations.

• Two year materials and workmanship warranty. Double the warranty of most manufacturers!

• Made in the U.S.A. Each shock is hand built in our Lakeville, Minnesota factory.

ULTRA-LIGHTWEIGHT, HIGH TRAVEL COIL-OVER SPRINGS • Lifetime guaranteed to remain within 2%.

• High travel springs = superior performance!

Viking’s high travel springs eliminate the coil bind problem that can occur with traditional spring designs.

• Available in a wide variety of styles, lengths and rates.

• Made in the U.S.A.

Danny Mink Danny’s Rod Shop Somerset, KY

TOTAL VEHICLE PACKAGES AVAILABLE. CALL TO INQUIRE.

George Poteet’s latest Tri-Five is this “driver” ’56 model 150 built

by Legens Hot Rods.

Jeff and Tracy Spear brought this beautiful ’55 stocker to the event and won a special award from Coker tire.

This magnificent ’56 Chevy model 210 hardtop, built by the father/son team of Joe and Josh Bailey, earned the Tri-Five of the Year award from the gang at Woody’s Hot Rodz.

Bill and Cathy Wamboldt brought this wicked ’55 Chevy gasser from Kenosha, Wisconsin.

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BETTER AGE with

ARP fasteners make vintage engines better than new Words / Photos Todd Ryden

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here are a few things that get better with age such as wine or scotch. But for the most part, as many of us are learning, age is not usually kind, and in the case of engine fasteners, definitely not.

The bolts and studs that were employed to assemble Henry Ford’s venerable Flathead V8 between 1932 and 1953 have long seen better days. Stress, hydrogen embrittlement, and rust contribute to the weakening of critical fasteners that hold an engine together. Even when they were new, the technology behind those original fasteners left a lot to be desired.

The good news is that Flatheads and other vintage engines are still being built to power street rods, which means companies are still designing, improving, and manufacturing components to bring these engines up to today’s technology.

One such company, Automotive Racing Products, Inc. (ARP) spends considerable effort developing new fastener kits for engines that range from the latest multi-cam and valve powerplants to vintage iron. As a case in point, when Edelbrock recently launched its new finned aluminum heads for the flattie, ARP developed a head stud kit for the application that far outpaces the original hardware in clamping force and dependability.

This premium head stud kit centers around studs that are manufactured from the highest grade of 8740-chromoly steel and heat treated in-house to provide a nominal tensile strength of 200,000 psi. This added strength assures there won’t be any head gasket

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ARP offers a new head stud kit that is compatible with Edelbrock’s finned aluminum heads.

P/N 154-4101 fits 1938–1948 engines, and P/N 154-4102 is for 1949–1953 models.

This is a 7-inch H-beam rod for a Flathead from Scat. ARP supplies the rod bolts that are made of 8740 chromoly (200,000 psi) or offers a proprietary ARP2000 material that is even stronger.

leaks, even in higher compression or supercharged applications. The studs are also hex-broached to make the proper installation or removal easy. For a classic finishing touch, ARP supplies polished stainless steel acorn nuts that will not peel, flake, or rust.

Naturally, with the added cylinder pressure of high-compression heads and a more aggressive cam profile, most flathead engine builders will opt to replace Henry’s spindly connecting rods, which have the bolt shank as part of the rod forging, with some stronger aftermarket versions. ARP works closely with leading rod manufacturers and supplies them with premium grade bolts made of 8740 chromoly (200,000 psi) or a proprietary ARP2000 material (220,000 psi). Scat, for example, offers 7-inch long (center-to-center) H-beam rods for the Flathead with a choice of ARP rod bolts. Main bolt kits featuring ARP fasteners are also offered by Speedway Motors.

ARP’s polished stainless steel fasteners, which are nominally rated at 170,000-psi tensile strength and substantially stronger than Grade 8 hardware, are often employed for attaching the intake manifold, headers, and the like. Currently, they are not offered in kit form directly from ARP due to their relatively low volume.

Working with vintage engines (or other components) can make it tough to find a specific kit for your engine, so keep in mind that ARP sells many of their fasteners in handy 5-packs. These packs come in sizes from small 10-32 x 1/2-inch length to 1/2-inch diameter and 6-inch length. Choices include standard hex or 12-point heads, as well as SAE coarse or fine thread, in polished stainless steel or with a black oxide finish. You can also check with specialty dealers that assemble bolt kits for vintage engines such as Speedway Motors, Red’s Headers, and Alloy Boltz.

One thing to remember about ARP hardware is that all of their fasteners are totally manufactured in-house (forging, heat-treating, machining, and finishing) at their southern California facility. Always look for ARP stamped on a fastener as your assurance of Made in USA quality.

Next time you’re gearing up to rebuild or detail your vintage Flathead, or other classic engine, be sure to look to ARP to update the fasteners. SRL Source: Automotive Racing Products, Inc. (ARP), arp-bolts.com

The stainless steel acorn nuts included in the head stud kit for Flatheads will not chip, fracture, or fade.

If you’re putting a blower on a Flathead, ARP’s new head stud kit is nearly mandatory to help clamp the heads over the cylinders and valves. The hex-broached studs provide easy installation and removal.

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ONE-MAN Roy DeMars built this 1961 Nomad in only 10 months Words / Photos Todd Ryden

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hen Roy DeMars retired from being a mechanic at a Target fleet distribution center, he probably expected to take it easy and have a break from spinning wrenches.

Actually, since retiring three years ago he’s been busier than ever working on and restoring his own cars.

In reality, there was no way Roy was going to slow down, especially when it comes to hot rods. A lifelong car guy, Roy’s been racing or cruising and building something since he was a kid. In fact, he still has the ’62 Corvette he drove when he was in high school (along with a 24

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pair of ’48 Anglias, a ’66 Chevy II, and a couple more). Now, he gets up and steps out to his own garage rather than driving to a big shop and punching in.

Ray may actually be putting more hours in than he did at work. Take for instance, this 1961 Nomad wagon for example. He started the complete disassembly of the car in June and it was finished in 10 months.

Yes, 10 months, less than a year. (I’ve taken more time than that to fix a leaky valve cover.) We’re talking engine build, creating interior moldings, body work, and paint.

Granted, Roy started with a pretty solid two owner car that had been in

storage for over 30 years. The old wagon was solid save for a mouse commune in the tailgate and lower left quarter. No trouble for Roy as he replaced the lower six inches of the tailgate with fresh sheet metal and while he was at it, he added an extra set of taillamps.

With the body off the chassis, Roy was able to install an air suspension from RideTech and build a custom exhaust that exits at the rear of the car, thanks to some handy work done by ‘oval-izing’ the tail pipes on a press in his shop. With close attention to detail, he was able to create plenty of clearance

for the suspension and exhaust to live in harmony within the confines of the X-frame-designed chassis.

As for an engine, Ray planned on going with a 409c.i. the entire time (he also owns a red-on-red ’61 Impala with a 409) and purchased two truck engines with the plan of being able to mix the parts to make one good engine. Truck engines were built with lower compression and cammed to produce more torque. Ray upped the compression a bit and put the larger valves in the heads to create a smooth cruising 409 that made 360 horsepow-

er and 380 lb.-ft. of torque once assembled with a dual-quad Edlebrock intake and carbs.

Inside the wraparound glass you’ll find enough room for the entire family, cat, and dog. The one area that Ray farms out is the sewing of the interior.

While the factory seats were being recovered by Jeremy Miller at Yellow Dog Upholstery, Ray was in his shop fabricating new interior door trim pieces that flow from the front door all the way to the rear of the interior, just like the factory exterior trim. Factory gauges were retained, along with the steering wheel,

and shift linkage (modified to work with the new 700R4 trans).

Since the restoration took less than a year, that meant Ray and his wife have had more time to enjoy cruising the car.

When we came across them at the Street Machine Nationals in St. Paul, Minnesota, the longroof had already racked up over 18,000 miles in a few short summers.

Two complete restorations on ’61 Chevys, you would think he’d slow down, but not Ray. He and his son Justin, just finished a ’63 Impala and there’s already another one coming into the garage.

Wrench-on Ray! SRL STREETRODLIFE.COM

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Roy did all of the body massaging and prep work before spraying the searing PPG scarlet red base/clear hue over a white sealer in his home garage. RideTech’s air suspension system allows for the ultra-low stance when sitting still.

Wheels are Coy’s C-5 with 18x7 in the front and 20x8.5 in the rear. Nitto provides the grip.

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Ray tore his ‘61 down to its X-frame bones mounting the longroof body on a rotisserie to tackle the paint and body. He retained the factory chassis and added an AirRide system which is completely hidden in the wagon’s ample storage area.

For even more info and pictures search “1961 Nomad” at StreetRodLife.com.

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A 409c.i. engine seemed like the logical choice for the longroof ’61. The engine is fit with the smaller truck heads upgraded with 2.19 intake and 1.72 exhaust valves and an Isky cam. An Edlebrock dual quad intake and carb fuel the 360-horsepower engine.

The Nomad designation was retired after the 1961 model run until the late ’60s, when it reappeared on the lowest priced Chevelle wagons.

The fold-up rear seat sits two, but riders must wave at every car they pass.

Note the custom trim treatment on the side panels that stretch from the front door to the rear.

The Nomad originally had four lights, but Roy liked the idea of having six, like the fully dressed Impalas of the day.

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The seats, dash, and instrumentation are all stock but thoroughly detailed by Roy. He also built the custom console to house a modern radio and the controls for the adjustable air suspension.

Roy, his wife Lynn and their son Justin. Justin also has a slick ’65 Fairlane that won the Gearheads4Life Editor’s Choice at St. Paul, and they just finished a ’63 Impala.

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COLUMN COMPLETE

ididit will get you everything you need to install a new steering column

Words / Photos Todd Ryden

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

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nly in the world of street rodding will one small project evolve into something larger. Have you ever gone to replace a leaky wheel cylinder and by the end of the day have the rear end laying on the floor so you can clean and paint it? Or fixing a valve cover leak only to end up with the intake off in the name of detailing and sealing it. You’ve been there.

Several months ago we upgraded to power steering on our ’65 Tempest, after years of gripping and grunting to pull into a parking space. The upgrade was welcome and far overdue, but since making the move to easy steering, the issues inside our 200,000+ mile, 50-year-old steering column have become more prevalent and even more annoying to those in the car.

The column has had a little wobble in it for years, along with a very irritating squeak from the steering wheel cap to the column itself. The horn wiring was questionable as well as the turn signals.

It was time to finish the steering right and we knew just who to call.

Tecumseh, Michigan-based ididit has been serving the street rod community with high quality steering column solutions for over three decades and certainly know their stuff. In fact, we weren’t ready to answer some of their questions about our application when we called. We figured it was going to be a simple, “We need a new column for a ’65 Tempest,” but there were many other options.

Right off the bat, they asked if the dash or firewall had been modified. Also, what engine and if we were using the stock gear box or an upgraded system (in our case a new Borgeson variable assist box). Next were questions about column options such as a floor shift or column shift. Also, did we want a tilt column or even a telescopic version, and lastly, did we plan to replace the unit with an ignition key column? Chrome, brushed, polished, or paintable steel?

When you’re going with a retro-fit on a muscle car, some of these answers are pretty easy to come by, but what about when you’re building a rod with a certain chassis and a different fiberglass body? You’ll need to consider the under dash mount and the floor mount. ididit offers a number of column drop mounts and floor mounts that are adjustable, swivel, and more. Did you even think about a shift indicator, wiper, or cruise switch?

Many decisions lead to other changes or modifications to your rod as well. Putting a key or start button on the column means not having to drill a hole in the dash to install an ignition switch. A column shifter will free up space on the floor, but will require different linkage to the transmission.

These are all things you’ll need to decide before buying a column and the installation components. Once you make the decision, you’ll need to stick to the plan, but rest assured, ididit is there to help answer any questions you may have about finishing your steering system upgrade or complete installation. SRL

When you’re upgrading the steering column of your rod, ididit has you covered with a long list of universal and retro-fit designs and applications.

However, there is more to consider than the column alone.

Most of ididit’s universal columns will have a double-D shaft while the retrofit columns will have a splined shaft such as a 3/4-inch 36 spline or a 1-inch 48 spline. Since we will be connecting to a double-D shaft, a coupler was required.

Our new column has the wiring built-in to control four-way emergency flashers. Since we are using the factory wiring still, an adapter harness to connect the factory crescent shaped connector was required which is also set up with new flasher and fuse.

Source: ididit, LLC, ididitinc.com

When starting with a new body or project, you’ll probably need a floor mount and a dash mount. ididit offers a number of different shapes sizes and forms to meet your needs.

Before topping it all off with a cool new steering wheel, you may need a steering wheel adapter. In the case of a GM column, if your wheel is from a ’69–’94 model, it will bolt to the column. Our ’65 Tempest required an adapter.

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Control the

Improved braking through proper accessory valves

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he brake system of a street rod relies on hydraulic pressure to be applied through a network of plumbing that moves the brake pads or shoes making contact with the rotating surface of the rotor or drums to slow and stop the vehicle. It takes quite a bit of pressure, 800 psi to 1,500 psi depending on the brake system, but it is important to note that there’s more to building a brake system than just brake lines and pressure.

Depending on the application there are several different accessory valves that mount inline of the brake plumbing to ensure the best operation and application of the front and rear brakes. We were recently at a friend’s shop when they were bending up some lines on their 1932 Ford chassis and noticed a couple of small valves inline and a larger unit mounted near the master cylinder. To get the scoop on these components, we looked for expertise and recommendations from Master Power Brakes.

Metering valve A metering valve is used primarily on vehicles with a combination of front discs and rear drums. This valve, sometimes referred to as a hold-off valve, is used to regulate the pressure going to the front discs. Since discs will apply quicker than drum brakes, the metering valve is designed to slightly “hold off ” the pressure to the front discs to give the rear drums a chance to energize. This slight delay is important to prevent the front brakes from locking up prematurely or causing the front end to dip significantly. A metering valve is not required in a drum/drum system or a disc/disc system.

Within these systems you want equal application at all four corners as soon as the brakes are applied.

A metering valve delays the activation of the front brakes to prevent excessive nose dives and lock-up.

Words / Photos Todd Ryden

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Chassis mounted master cylinders In hot rodding, a common location for the master cylinder and booster assembly is under the driver’s floor and mounted right to the chassis. This cleans up the engine compartment and in many instances it’s simply the best location due to space constraints. However, when the master cylinder is located lower than brake calipers or wheel cylinders, you need to install a residual valve in the brake lines.

The residual valve is a small inline device that will prevent the fluid from the calipers and higher lines siphoning back down into the master cylinder. There are typically two different residual valves: a 2-psi version and a 10-psi unit.

For a disc brake circuit, the 2-psi valve is used and will keep the fluid from draining back to the master cylinder. It will also maintain pressure in the brake line to prevent excessive pedal travel or having to pump the pedal a couple times to have full braking capabilities.

A 10-psi valve is required on drum brake setups, unless the master cylinder already has one built in, which is possible if the master cylinder being used was originally designed for a drum brake system. The valve will also protect the hydraulic system from air weeping in through the wheel cylinder seals. Like the smaller pressure valve, it will help keep pressure in the circuit to prevent a spongy feeling brake pedal.

If you mount your master cylinder lower than the wheel cylinders or calipers, you need to add a residual valve to the front and rear lines. These valves will keep the fluid from leaking away from the master cylinder causing a soft or delayed pedal feel.

Brake light warning light plug (#HW1709)

Mounting hole

A proportioning valve will generally be installed in the rear brake circuit to help control the rate of the brake line pressure to slow the rise and chance of locking up the rear wheels as the vehicle’s weight transfers forward. Master Power Brakes offers an adjustable model.

Adjustable proportioning valve

An adjustable proportioning valve is used with disc or drum systems and is primarily installed inline on the rear brake line circuit. Its goal is to control (or limit) the rate of pressure increase at the rear wheels. By limiting, or at least slowing the pressure rise, the valve will prevent the rear wheels from locking up under hard braking to compensate for weight transfer.

Very few proportioning valves are preset. The vast majority are an adjustable version that let you fine-tune the bias delay to your specific vehicle’s setup and driving characteristics.

Combination valve So we’ve learned that your new rod project needs a proportioning valve and

Rear brakes outlets 1/16inch - 18 thread (3/16- or 1/4-inch hardline

Master cylinder inlet (rear brakes) 7/16-inch - 24 thread

Master cylinder inlet (front brakes) 1/2-inch - 20 thread

Front brakes outlets 3/8-inch - 24 thread (3/16-inch inv. flare)

Mounting hole

Most OEM systems or upgrades for a specific application will use a combination valve. As you can see, this one valve has the metering and proportioning valves built in. This one, from Master Power Brakes also features a brake light warning switch for a dash warning light.

a metering valve, and don’t forget you’ll need a sensor for a dash warning light!

To make things simple, Master Power Brakes offers a combination valve that covers all the brake system bases.

In a perfect world, there would be many different combination valves and they would all be specifically fine tuned to the vehicle it is being used on. Unfortunately, the OE’s manufacture valves for thousands of cars that were all alike.

We don’t have that luxury and manufacturing one valve for a specific vehicle just isn’t feasible. Therefore, MPB put together a valve that covers the needs of its hot rod customers.

Its combination valve combines the metering valve (in a drum brake system), the proportioning valve, and a

pressure differential valve and switch (which turns on a light on the dash in the event of a brake system pressure failure) within one package. This makes for one simple component that does not require any adjusting or worrying by the customer. Simply install it and forget it.

If you’re building a performance system or a unique application, a combo valve may not be the best bet for you. In that regard, using a separate metering valve and proportioning valve would be the way to go. For questions about your system and what valves may be required, give the techs at Master Power Brakes a call. Stopping your rod is serious business! SRL Source: Master Power Brakes, mpbrakes.com

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Sometimes your wife pushes you in the right direction Words / Photos Todd Ryden

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ne pleasant August evening while cruising Woodward Avenue in their ’32 roadster, Michael Kunzman and his wife Jeanne were passed by a beautiful, long-and-low lead sled, prompting Jeanne to ask, “That was really nice. Why don’t we have one of those?”

That was just enough of a push to get Michael thinking about a custom Mercury.

He had always wanted one and figured someday he would, so the timing seemed about as right as it was going to get. Besides, a guy’s gotta keep his wife happy right?

Soon thereafter a ’51 Merc was located and shipped to their Walled Lake, Michigan, office and a plan was made for their custom lead-sled cruiser. The Flathead was pulled, the guts all stripped, and the team at Reiter’s Metal Craft got to work with its torches, sheet metal tools, and welders. As the norm, the top was removed along with the door posts, before being laid back in place a couple inches lower. A serious amount of work was required to retain the car’s wrap around rear window, but in the end that detail really stands out.

The hood corners were rounded, headlamps frenched, and the bumpers received a tuck at the front and rear. Note the lower location of the tail lamps as well. Once the body was deemed smooth and ideal, Reiter’s laid on a metallic rose hue that Mike found on a Mazda color chart.

It’s important to note that Mike is and has always been a car guy. In fact, he’s made his living selling and marketing performance and racing components since about 1965.

He went to his first race on an airstrip in New Jersey before he even had a license. His daily driver in college was a ’39 Ford with a Pontiac mill and he still races a ’71 Nova at Milan Dragway.

Eventually he moved out to California working for Schiefer Clutches, but moved back east when Hurst bought them and relocated the company. That evolved to the STREETRODLIFE.COM

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The door posts were removed and the top was lowered 2 inches but note the original wrap-around ’51 rear window.

formation of Michael Kunzman and Associates, a group of hardworking guys who love cars. Some of their lines include Auto Meter, ARP, Be Cool, Hedman, and many more. When you can turn your passion into a business, it’s a win-win situation.

With that kind of a background it certainly makes sense that Mike chose a bigblock Ford to power this Merc.

“There’s just too much room under the hood for a small block and I didn’t want to put a Chevy in it,” Mike explains.

He decided to go with a big-block Ford, but after talking to friends at Scat, he went even bigger with one of its stroker rotating assemblies to up the cubes to 514!

The engine was topped with Edelbrock heads and Performer intake with an MSD Atomic EFI system in place. A hy-

No small-block Chevy in this Merc!

Mike went with a big-block Ford to fill up the large engine compartment and even bigger. After a slight bore and the addition of a stroked rotating assembly from Scat, the Ford boasts 514c.i.

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Just the way a custom sled should look. Louvered hood, chopped top, tucked bumpers, decked and nosed. Air suspension allows for an even lower stance as well.

draulic roller cam gives the big Ford plenty of rumble, in part to a custom exhaust and Hedman headers. An AODE trans ties in to a 9-inch Ford with Motive Gears.

In the cabin, the rose red paint covers a custom designed dash with white leather covering the doors, Yukon seats, and headliner. Care was taken on the dash and door panels to add touches of chrome trim and flair to blend the custom flavor with the original styling of the Merc.

Considering how long Mike has been involved in street rodding and how many cars he’s gone through over the years, it really is surprising that a custom Merc had never been parked in the driveway. All it really took was a little push from his wife, and now they have a beautiful sled to cruise Woodward next summer. SRL

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The white/red interior treatment stretched to the trunk of the Merc along with the air tank for the suspension.

Factory Merc lenses were retained but the taillamps were lowered.

Steel wheels wrapped in Coker Classics topped with ’50s-era Caddy caps.

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

Drop down into the snow white leather interior and you’ll find a custom dash filled with Auto Meter gauges along with unique details adding a touch of class. An ididit column is topped with a GT Performance wheel.

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MATTERS Forged wheels pack strength, weight savings, and looks into one package

W

hen we look at wheels on different cars or even through a catalog, the first thing we’re looking for is something that excites. The overall styling and look of the wheel is what gets your attention as you try to envision how it looks on your rod.

Chances are that the next thing you think about is the size of the wheel and if it’s even available to tuck into your car or truck’s fenderwells. Do they have the right diameter, will you need a custom backspacing? These are all things to consider before buying a new set of wheels.

However, the last item we tend to think about is the strength, which should actually be at the top of the list. This is even more important if you’re going to be competing in time events or even partaking in some spirited driving.

WELD is one company that puts a lot of emphasis on the strength and performance of the wheel. After all, WELD does build wheels for the quickest and fastest race cars in the world such as Top Fuel dragsters, World of Outlaws Sprint Cars, offroad Baja trucks, and more. These applications can only rely on the strongest wheels available, which is why WELD only offers wheels that are made from forging.

Forging of aluminum or steel creates a much stronger piece compared to a casting. Ever listen to engine builders discuss crankshafts? Forged cranks are always used in higher end performance engines, even back during the muscle car wars. Forging is a costly process due to the tooling and development time associated, but the results are a much stronger and lighter finished product.

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

Words Todd Ryden

WELD uses a number of forging techniques with one being rotary forging. This process takes heated billets of aluminum (6061-T6 for its racing wheels) into a rotary press equipped with a spinning die that compresses the molten aluminum material through centrifugal force creating a very tight grain when complete. The result is a wheel with extremely high strength in a lightweight package.

In a typical cast wheel, there will be irregularities and microscopic voids in the grain structure. These weak spots can lead to fatigue or fracturing and can even produce heavy spots within the wheel making an inconsistent wheel load that requires excessive balancing.

Forged wheels, like WELD designs and manufactures in its Kansas City, Missouri, headquarters, balance perfectly, deliver superior strength, are lightweight, and are ductile to resist damage from loads or impacts.

Back to the appearance side, forged wheels can be polished to a chrome-like finish and coated to lock-in that shine for great looks.

So when it comes to choosing a wheel for your rod, there are a lot more things to consider than simply the looks of the wheel. Design and strength should play a key role in your decision and WELD offers a lot of different styles and designs for you to consider. The nice thing, is that no matter which design you choose, it will be a stronger, lighter forged wheel that will perform and last — no matter how many miles you roll! SRL Source: WELD, weldwheels.com

Robby Unser’s ’65 Nova relies on WELD wheels to run the SCCA and other autocross events.

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to the

This resto-mod Willys bridges yesterday and today with classic utilitarian style

Words Barry Kluczyk / Photos Todd Ryden

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

The rare Willys sedan delivery included rear “barn” doors vs. a split tailgate on the wagon models.

A

1952 Willys Sedan Delivery doesn’t float to the top of mind when most rodders contemplate a project. But like many of us, Tom Toy of Eau Claire, Wisconsin, worked with what he had, and the results will likely make you reconsider the viability of those old utilitarian rigs.

This Willys had been in Tom’s family for more than 30 years when it was saved from the crusher by Tom’s father, who happened to be in the salvage business. The family used it for hunting trips throughout Wisconsin and into North Dakota. They were admittedly slow trips, thanks to the original, 134c.i. F-134 Hurricane four-cylinder pulling the big steel box along the highway with all of 72 horsepower.

Ultimately, the two-wheel-drive Willys spent the majority of its time sitting immobile outdoors, deteriorating as moss took hold in the crevices and mice used it as a nostalgic, mid-century loft apartment. After years sitting like that, it was more than Tom could bear and by the fall of 2014, he decided to evict the rodents and revive the truck to preserve its part in the family’s history.

While he admired the elemental, utilitarian style of the rare Sedan Delivery, the bare-bones driving experience that came with it originally just wasn’t going to work in an era of EFI-powered, overdrive-driven street rods.

“I wanted to maintain the original look and appearance of the Willys, but make it more comfortable to drive,” Tom says. “I also wanted strong horsepower. I wasn’t looking to build the fastest thing on the road, but I wanted it to be fun, with plenty of power on tap.”

A friend’s satisfaction with the build of a 1937 Chevy school bus, by Fast Freddie’s Rod Shop in Eau Claire, was the reference he needed to trust the shop with his project. Restoring the body and maintaining its original look was a foundation of the project, but Tom was open to suggestions when it came to re-powering the vintage Willys.

At first, he figured Fast Freddie’s would simply drop in the conventional, carbureted small block, but they suggested a more modern approach with one of Chevrolet Performance’s Connect & Cruise crate powertrain systems.

“It was a great choice, because just about everything needed came in the kit — the engine, transmission, computers, and more,” Tom explains. “Compared to the prospect of sourcing everything separately, it made a lot of sense to go with it.”

STREETRODLIFE.COM

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I wanted to maintain the original “look and appearance of the Willys,

”

but make it more comfortable to drive.

PPG Ruby Red paint and white accents adorn the stock-appearing Willys body, which includes a few subtle enhancements including a cowl-induction scoop.

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

There are several Connect & Cruise systems available, but Tom selected the LS376-480 kit, which uses an LS3based engine fitted with a “hot” cam to produce 480 horsepower. The kit also includes a matched 4L70-E four-speed automatic overdrive transmission. That was all well and good, but would it fit in the Willys?

“Surprisingly, it dropped into the original frame almost like it was meant for it,” Tom says. “I was amazed that there were no major clearance issues.”

The glove-like fit of the modern LS engine in the vintage chassis can be seen at fastfreddiesrodshop.com. The stock, slim-profile LS3 exhaust manifolds are used and blow into a custom exhaust system featuring Dynomax mufflers.

The build pics also show the conversion to a contemporary Heidts Superide II independent front suspension, with Wilwood disc brakes, and rack-and-pinion steering system, which further contribute to the truck’s mod-

The LS3-based LS376-480 crate engine nestles in the engine bay with surprising clearance, using the GM accessory drive system, too.

Custom engine covers carry the Willys script.

ern makeover under the skin. The rest of the drivetrain and chassis system includes a Moser-built, 3.73-geared 12bolt rear axle located by a Heidts triangulated four-link rear suspension. The stock steel wheels were cut in half and widened — and they’re used with the stock Willys hub caps — a detail Tom insisted on to help maintain the truck’s original style at a glance.

Look a little closer, however, and the sheet metal inside and out isn’t exactly the same as when it left the Toledo plant more than 60 years ago. Inside, the floor panels and transmission tunnel were completely remade to accommodate the LS powertrain, and the rear was minitubbed to make room for the comparatively large BFGoodrich 275/60R15 Radial T/A tires.

On the exterior, the front fenders were radius’d to accommodate the widened wheels and larger tires, while a subtle cowl induction-style scoop was built into the hood. It’s an ingeniously subtle detail that you have to look at twice to notice because the hood was sliced along the original lines flowing rearward from the grille and raised only marginally. The effect is harmonious and looks for all the world like the hood was originally stamped that way. Nice.

STREETRODLIFE.COM

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Inside, the blend of vintage style and modern amenities continues with Procar front bucket seats, Rugged Ridge rear seat, Flaming River steering column, Summit Racing banjo-style steering wheel, and Lokar shifter. Classic Instruments took the original gauge cluster and modified the instruments to work with the electronically controlled engine and transmission, all while maintaining that original style.

Additional details that look terrific include the “wall paper” (pages of vintage 1952 outdoor magazines) affixed and cleared on the upper-rear bodyside panels, where windows would be if it were a wagon model. Fast Freddie’s didn’t invent this detail, but it works well in this context. The pages include old Field & Stream covers, Willys ads, and even local Wisconsin advertising that help connect it with its past.

“The local link with the Willys was always important and Fast Freddie’s really helped strengthen it,” Tom says.

He admits that while that bridge to the past was crucial, he wouldn’t change the updated driving experience for anything.

“The way it handles, steers, and stops now — it’s amazing,” he says. “And the LS engine gives it the right balance of power. It’s very strong, but very drivable.

It’s a ton of fun.”

Since the Willys was finished, Tom has taken it to two shows and driven home with first place and best-in-show trophies from them. They’re acknowledgements that blending yesterday and today in a modern hot rod pays dividends in emotional appeal.

After all, isn’t that what we all aspire to with our projects? Well done Tom, and the Fast Freddie’s team. SRL

Pages from period magazines adorn the interior walls, providing a tangible link to the past and the outdoor lifestyle the Willys was used for decades ago.

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

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WINTERIZE YOUR RIDE Photo by Shawn Brereton

Tips for storing your car

Words Brandon Flannery

W

hen the show season ends and the days grow colder hot rodders without year-round cruise weather begin preparing their cars for hibernation. Like many things in life a little work up front will save a lot later.

Moisture, in particular, is an enemy of non-use and needs to be blocked. Controlling corrosion is paramount for a joyous return to cruising when the warmer weather returns.

When taking a car off the road, it’s important to address any minor repairs that popped up and were neglected.

Now is a great time to give the car a tune up, lube the chassis points, put a wrench on all the bolts, inspect the brakes and change the transmission and differential fluids if it’s time.

While some people like to change their oil in the spring, it’s much better to store the car with fresh fluids. We contacted Lake Speed Jr. of Driven Racing Oil to find out why.

“Older oil that’s been in the car for a while contains combustion byproducts like bits of carbon, fuel, and water,” he says. “These contaminants create acids that can corrode your engine during storage. The longer it’s stored, the more 48

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

opportunity corrosion has to spread.”

Lake recommends warming the engine and then changing your oil before putting it into storage.

“In addition to easier drainage when it’s warm, this suspends the contaminants in the fluid. Afterwards run it for at least ten minutes to circulate your new oil and coat the internal components.

Otherwise, it’ll just be a pool of fresh oil in the bottom of the pan.”

Driven’s Hot Rod Oil takes things a step further. It was originally created with added rust inhibitors for U.S. military vehicles that regularly sit for extended periods before rapid deployment. It contains higher levels of Zinc (ZDDP) than most other oils, which creates a sacrificial barrier between metal components. It also blocks air and moisture from the metal, discouraging corrosion and rust. Even when most of the oil has drained back into the pan by the end of the winter Driven’s additives and extra Zinc remain in place as a protective coating that bettered all leading brands in independent Extreme LongTerm Storage testing.

With the car properly lubricated, the next area to address is the fuel. In fact,

running to top off the tank is an excellent way to warm and circulate that fresh new oil. Most of today’s fuel contains ethanol, which attracts water by nature. During storage it becomes a magnet for moisture that can build up and cause corrosion in the tank, carb, and fuel pump. Additionally it dries out gaskets, the pump diaphragm, and fuel lines.

Filling the tank to the very top will leave little room for moisture to collect. Adding a product like Driven’s Carb Defender will not only keep the fuel from breaking down, it will create a microscopic coating for everything in the fuel system that protects against damage and lubricates all non-metallic components to keep them from drying out and cracking.

Just add a bottle to the last couple of tanks before the end of the driving season and your fuel system is protected all winter long.

The last fluid to think about is in the cooling system. Summer top-offs may have diluted the antifreeze ratios, so they need to be inspected and corrected. Again, while you have the wrenches out this is a great time to flush the system and add fresh fluids. Minerals in tap water like calcium, sodium, and magnesium react with the engine’s metal and can create sludge over time. Routine flushing

can slow this corrosion down, but once again, the folks at Driven have taken that one step further and developed their Coolant System Protector.

“Our CSP uses a chemical called a chelant, which bonds with the minerals and metal in the water and renders them inert so they cannot be conductors for corrosion,” Lake says. “Even if you don’t have the time or desire to flush your engine before storage, you can add a bottle to the system and run the engine for a few minutes to thoroughly mix it with the coolant.”

With all of the fluids addressed, the car is nearly ready for storage. An ideal location would be dark, dry, and protected from the elements — preferably with a cement floor. If the building has a dirt floor, or the car will be stored outside under a cover, a plastic barrier on the ground with plywood or carpet under the tires will stop moisture. Make sure the tires are clean and aired up to the proper pressure. Placing the car on jack stands will keep the weight off the tires

and prevent flat spots. Also moisture can scale inside the drums and on rotors, so do not set the parking brake.

Wash and wax the car to protect the paint and cover any openings into the car. Roll the windows up to keep out pests and place an open box of baking soda and/or mothballs on the floor of the interior and trunk. Unhook the battery (negative cable first) and ideally store it elsewhere on a tender, but never on concrete, which will cause it to discharge.

Depending on your length of storage, you may or may not choose to run the engine every once in awhile. It should be noted that engines started in freezing temperatures need to run for at least 10 minutes. Any less increases the risk of water condensing in the combustion chambers and exhaust components.

Periodically check tire pressures, as low-pressure flex can compromise their structural integrity.

This may strike some as a lengthy process, but the returns are extremely beneficial. Investing in Driven products will protect the various systems and save money on future repairs, and a little extra effort at the beginning of storage will reduce problems when rousing your car out of hibernation in the spring. After all, who wants to spend that first sunny day wrenching on their car when you could be tooling down the road? SRL Source: Driven Racing Oil, drivenracingoil.com

Photo by Brandon Flannery

The Martinson’s started this 1968 pickup build around big tires and a great stance Words Barry Kluczyk / Photos Mark Hargis

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

W

hen it comes to building a hot rod, stance is everything, and the wheel/tire combination is inextricably linked to it.

That’s why, when the Martinson family (Steve, wife Darcie, and son Robert) set out to build a vintage C10 that would blend Pro Street and street rod elements, they framed it around the enormous 20x18-inch Mickey Thompson Sportsman S/R tires and Foose rear rolling stock.

“The vision for how we wanted the truck to look drove the build from the very beginning,” Steve says. “In fact, the whole chassis and cargo bed were built around those tires.”

Good thing they started with a fresh chassis. It’s one of No Limit Engineering’s C10 frames, modified to accommodate a narrowed rear axle. Slicing up the original frame would have taken longer, been more work, and the result wouldn’t have been nearly as strong.

“Knowing that we were going to use a custom chassis, we were really just searching for a good, rust-free cab and that’s what we found with the GMC,” Steve says.

“We kept the cab and fenders and sold off the original frame and long box.”

That GMC was actually a ’69 3/4-ton longbed fresh from a Utah farm.

The Chevy “dog house” and even the bed sides are made up of reproduction parts from LMC Truck and Classic Industries. But back to that custom chassis for a moment.

The No Limit chassis incorporates all the contemporary suspension components such as a four-link-located 9-inch axle and an independent front suspension with rack-andpinion steering. There are coil springs all around, as well as a Hydro-boosted Wilwood four-wheel disc brake system with 13-inch rotors.

The only remaining features of the original donor vehicle are the cab and fenders. The rest of the C10’s smooth flanks come courtesy of aftermarket sheet metal mounted on a No Limit Engineering frame.

“It drives like a dream,” Darcie says.

“It’s amazing how far the industry has come in making hot rods that ride and handle like a modern car.”

Draping the cargo bed over the big wheels and tires required some clever craftsmanship, and it came from Tom Valiquette, who built a custom bed floor that was raised 4 inches to accommodate the chassis, suspension, and tires.

He then fashioned wheel tubs by welding together trailer fenders that had the perfect radius for the tires. The floor is exquisitely finished hickory and features polished stainless steel dividers with hidden hardware.

Valiquette also spent seemingly countless hours smoothing the body while retaining that classic C10 appearance.

That meant shaving trim, side marker lights, and the like, along with paring off the bulky cab drip rails. When the grinder was finally retired and the sanding dust settled, he sprayed the truck a custom blue hue that was inspired by an engine part Steve was working with.

“I was building an engine and using some blue-anodized rockers,” he says.

“We liked the color and took it to Tom and asked him to match it. He totally nailed it.”

Besides the color itself, the paint process Valiquette employed gives a nearly pearl-like luster to the finish. It looks a mile deep on the runway-straight body, but it came at a price. Valiquette spent more than 1,000 hours on the fabrication, bodywork, paint work, and assembly. It’s not hard to do the math when you factor in the average labor rate for restoration work of this caliber.

“It was totally worth it,” Robert says.

“The truck looks amazing, but even still, 52

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

it’s a very drivable vehicle that we don’t hesitate to take out on the street.”

In fact, it was Robert who inspired the build after seeing his uncle’s ’71 GMC. Robert’s a software engineer, but a longtime fan of Pro Street vehicles, and the start of the project dates back to his teen years.

Of course, any self-respecting Pro Street hot rod worth its narrowed axle needs a thumping power plant, and this one doesn’t disappoint.

Steve is a mechanical engineer by training and has built engines since he was 13, so he didn’t skimp on the cubic inches.

Simple and effective. The EFI-topped Merlin big block is the focal point of a pristine engine compartment. Many components such as the brake booster, battery, and air conditioning are hidden to create a less-is-more, clean bay.

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Tan leather imported from Scotland is sumptuous and covers the custom cabin, which also features an Auto Meter filled gauge panel and console.

He put to use a World Products-based 572c.i. Merlin big block and aluminum cylinder heads. It’s a straightforward and highly effective combination that was fed through a Holley Dominator throttle body mounted on an Edelbrock EFI intake. The torque is sent through a built Turbo 400, then on to the strong Ford housing, where a set of 3.73 gears spin those gigantic Mickey Thompson treads.

The EFI system ran just fine, but Steve has always been a fan of supercharging, and by the time you read this, a Whipple-based quad-rotor supercharger should be in place.

“It’s basically two twin screw su54

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

perchargers side by side,” Steve says.

“It should look and sound pretty awesome — when we get it stuffed under the stock hood.”

Any changes in the engine’s sound will be hard to top, as the EFI-fed Merlin exhales through a custom set of headers from Stainless Headers and into NASCAR-style boom tubes from Dr. Gas. It’s a spine-tingling sound akin to a NASCAR Cup racer — if the rules were changed to allow big-block engines. And it’s a sound that never fails to draw attention.

“Wherever we go with the truck, heads turn when people hear it, and a crowd will gather at car shows,” Steve says. “I

can only imagine how it will sound when the blower whine is added to the mix.”

Regardless of whether the truck draws attention through its speedway-inspired exhaust note or its spot-on stance, the pickup commands attention. That is ideal for the Martinson’s engine-building shop, which has grown into a full-service build shop called Thunder Custom Auto. Not a bad calling card.

First and foremost, however, is its role as a family cruiser.

“We built this car with our son’s vision and it was built to drive,” Darcie says.

We can’t think of a much better reason to build a hot rod. SRL

The tailgate lowers to reveal access to the hidden fuel filler, battery cut-off switch, and more below the floor line of the bed.

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MEASURE

TWICE BUY ONCE Words/Photos Tommy Lee Byrd

The right way to measure for tire and wheel sizes before buying

S

o it’s time for a new set of tires and wheels for your street rod. The traditional hot rod movement has certainly helped rejuvenate interest in stock-style steelies, as well as vintage racing wheels (or at least modern recreations of vintage wheels). With this in mind, several companies are making alternative sizes in the same styles you’ve grown fond of over the years.

We went to the leading source for hot rod tread, Coker Tire Company, for tips and tricks on finding the right tire and wheel package for your vehicle. The Chattanooga, Tennessee-based company was founded in 1958 as a BFGoodrich tire dealership and service center. More than 55 years later, the company continues to offer OE tire sizes and custom designs for street rods, muscle cars and more. Coker Tire was the first company to produce a modern wide-whitewall radial tire in the mid-90s, and it was the first to introduce a modern radial tire that looks like a bias ply tire. With such a rich pedigree, it was a no-brainer to reach out to Coker Tire for help with this article.

Tire and wheel fitment can make or break a car’s overall appearance as well as the handling. Going back with stock rims and tires isn’t a big deal, it’s simply a matter of doing some research to find what exactly came on your vehicle from the factory. However, when it comes to choosing custom rims and tires that are going to fill every square inch of the wheel well, you better do your homework before ordering and mounting your new boots.

As an example we’re using a 1932 Ford roadster pickup with full factory fenders and a nearly stock chassis setup. The fend56

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

The first step is to figure out the bolt circle of your front and rear axles. On a five-lug wheel, you want to measure from the outside of the first stud to the center of the third (or fourth) stud to get a good estimate. This is an early Ford hub with a 5x5.5-inch bolt pattern.

ers cover a set of 17x4.5-inch Hot Rod Wire wheels, wrapped in 6.00-17 Excelsior Stahl Sport Radial rubber for the tall and skinny look. Since these wheels are close to factory specs, they fit without any clearance issues, and offer the right appearance for this traditional pickup.

A good old-fashioned measuring tape (or two, in this case) tells all when it comes to tire and wheel fitment. Perform your measurements at ride height, and use the wheel mounting flange as home base to determine the overall width and backspacing measurements. Given Coker Tire’s rule of thumb of 2 inches of wiggle room for a bias ply sidewall bulge, we have 5.5 inches of room for back spacing.

Despite the truck’s nearly stock tire and wheel combination, it offers a great example for a car or truck that might be sitting in your garage. It’s not very common for a street rodder to buy a set of wheels that are exact replicas of the originals, so measuring for maximum width and back spacing is an important part of the selection process.

The first step is to determine the size of the bolt pattern, also known as the bolt circle. The most common passenger car bolt patterns for are 5x4.5 inches or 5x4.75 inches, but remember older cars had much larger bolt patterns. Early Fords, most notably cars built from 1928 through the 1950s used a 5x5.5-inch bolt pattern. Ford would later use hubs with a 5x4.5-inch bolt pattern, which was common for Mustangs, Fairlanes, and the like. Mopar products shared the 5x4.5-inch bolt pattern, but often had a smaller center hub size. GM used 5x5-inch patterns for many of its full size cars in the Buick, Olds, and Pontiac lines, while many Chevrolet models from 1949 through the 1990s featured a 5x4.75-inch pattern.

You can use a measuring tape to find your bolt pattern dimensions, simply measure from the edge of one stud to the center of the stud across from it. Four-lug, six-lug, and eight-lug applications are measured from center to center of the studs furthest from each other.

In order to properly measure for total width and backspacing of your desired tire and wheel combination, you should mount any items that may interfere when the car is finished (shocks, fenders, etc...). If there’s anything that might get in the way, be sure to account for it when measuring, and give yourself at least 1-inch of wiggle room on the inner side of the rim for sidewall bulge when the tire is inflated. Coker Tire suggests leaving 1-inch of wiggle room for radial tires and 2 inches for bias ply tires, which tend to have a little more sidewall bulge.

Also remember that wheel width, in comparison to the tires tread width, can change the amount of sidewall bulge.

Another important aspect to consider is how the wheel and tire combination looks on your car. You don’t want a tire that’s tucked too far under the car, and you certainly don’t want the tires protruding from the rear fenders (unless you’re building a gasser or a ’70s street machine). For front wheels and tires, it’s important to consider turning radius, in relation to the car’s ride height and dimensions of the tires once inflated. Folks like Roy Brizio and Bobby Alloway have this aspect perfected, combining a wicked stance with ample room for turning.

Front spacing is just as important, so hold the straight edge with the outermost point of your fender. On the outside edge, give yourself 1 inch for tire bulge, but it’s not as crucial here. On this Deuce pickup, that means we have 3 inches of room for front spacing. Adding 3 inches of front spacing to 5.5 inches of backspacing means we can safely run an 8.5-inch wide wheel on this pickup.

We used a ’54 Buick to illustrate the importance of measuring the wheel opening width. This car features a 255/70R15 tire, which measures 29.10 inches in diameter. Anything larger would not match the proportions of the Buick wheel openings, and anything smaller may not fill the wheel well.

Wheel backspacing is the measurement from the wheel’s mounting flange to the inner edge of the bead. Coker Tire sells many types of reproduction and custom steel wheels with backspacing dimensions to fit many applications. Other companies, such as Wheel Vintiques, offer custom backspacing if an off-the-shelf wheel doesn’t fit your ride.

Tire and wheel dimensions can make or break your hot rod’s appearance, so get it right the first time by measuring for fitment.

The techs at Coker can help answer many of your questions and they’ll be glad to know you did your homework when you called.

Remember, tires, and wheels are not something you want to buy to try. Get it right and do it once. SRL Source: Coker Tire Company, cokertire.com

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with RUSSELL

Words Brandon Flannery

Russell Freund and Darrell Peterson are two Washington-based hot rodders who decided to join forces and open a shop that highlights both of their strengths. Darrell met Russ while having a car painted at Russ’s auto body shop that specialized in hot rods. The two became friends and hung out at car shows and other functions. Later, after Russ spent some time selling paint and painting cars on the side, they decided to combine their talents and build cars. After completing a few projects together they started River City Speed & Kustom and currently employ a metal fabricator, a body guy, and two general assembly guys. We recently sat down with Russ to talk about his shop and experiences in hot rodding.

You guys started River City after working together on different projects, who specializes in what?

While we both can do each other’s job — and that’s very handy — Darrell handles the more challenging aspects of chassis and fabrication and I do most of the painting. We both can wire and plumb, and we usually work together during final assembly.

You’ll build and restore anything from early rods to muscle cars, but do you have a favorite style or era?

Well, I really like 1920s and ‘30s Fords in the ’50s and ’60s style, and Darrell’s tastes run very similar. But, yes, we will build and restore just about anything.

We recently restored a two-ton 1947 White truck — that was a fun project.

We’ve actually done a lot of trucks, I think that demand is unique to this area.

Photos Todd Ryden, River City

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Starting a hot rod shop is quite an adventure, any surprises so far?

I guess the biggest surprise for me is the amount of customers we get from thousands of miles away. We recently built a ’41 Ford pickup for a guy in Bulgaria.

It seems the entire family is involved with the shop, is that so, and is it good or bad?

Yes, we are very family oriented. Both of our wives help out, my mother is heavily involved, and Darrell’s always bringing his kids in… I’d say it’s a good thing, and we’ve changed the way we do things and are fortunate to have whittled our work week down to 40–45 hours, instead of the 80–100 hours we were doing. Having family involved keeps us all connected and understanding during crunch times. We also have a great group of guys who are really good. We’ve

FREUND

worked hard to keep our overhead down, so we’re not working just to keep the lights on.

Do you have any builders that really influenced your style?

I think about when I was young, and the things Li’l John Buttera did with his cars. They really left an impression. He was a craftsman, and an envelope-pusher, and everything just made sense.

Meeting him at the Goodguys Brizio Roast several years ago was a highlight of my life.

When I was in high school, Eric Peratt of Pinkee’s Rod Shop built a ’34 Chevy woody that blew me away, and he continues to crank out great work. Also, Dave Lane. His builds are so clean, and deceptively simple. He also manages to respect the design of the car and take it to the next level at the same time.

Hot Rods, especially “period” or “era-correct” ones seem to be a favorite build for you, why?

I tribute that to my father while I was growing up. He had a collection of the old 1/8-scale hot rod models like the Big Drag, Big T, and the Big Tub

River City is made up of Darrel Peterson (left) and his wife Sarah, along with Russ Freund with his wife Lora.

on display and I had to pass by them every time I went to my room. I think he brainwashed me into liking those kinds of cars. To this day my favorite style is a simple drag car that’s not fast enough to win, so they chrome plate everything.

With a few years of building cars for customers under your belts, what experiences would you share with a guy just getting started in the business?

Pick your customer carefully. I can’t stress that enough. I once read that Troy Trepanier said he wouldn’t build a car for somebody who hasn’t already had a car built, and there’s some merit to that. The customer has to know about the process as much as you do for it to be successful. It’s not easy, or for everybody. Not everyone who walks through the door is going to be a customer, and that’s a hard lesson to learn, but a very important one that usually only comes with experience. Choose wisely, that’s what I would say.

What’s a project you’re really itching to build?

I’m actually in the middle of it, and it’s a 1931 Ford two-door phaeton. My late father built it in the 1970s, and I grew up in it. We took it on family trips and pulled a small popup camper and went

This wild, mild custom ’63 Riviera was designed by Jeff Allison and built by River City. Perfect stance, crazy cool billet wheels modeled after the Pontiac 8 lugs of the same era with a built Nailhead.

all over the place. He sold it in 1988, and it burnt to the ground in 1992.

One of his friends bought the burned car in 1993 because he wanted the chassis. I ended up trading four steelie wheels for the body, and by 1999 it was up and running. It was my

first hot rod. In 2006, my friend Jeff Allison, and I quote, “destroyed it.” Actually, he ripped the motor mount out and did some other damage, but we are currently getting it back together. I can’t wait. SRL

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Russ’s personal rod is this purple, chrome, and polished ’23 Ford Roadster built in the style of early ’60s show cars. The Flathead powered rod gets driven regularly around Washington and Idaho.

You can see why Darrell and Russ get along so well. This is Darrel’s traditionally styled Model A. And yes, he drives the wheels off of it!

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THE

FACTOR Tips to consider when selecting a radiator

Words Todd Ryden / Photos Flex-a-lite

T

here is nothing worse than sitting at a stop light and watching the temp gauge slowly climb into the red. All of a sudden, you’re sweating more than the engine! Setting up your rod’s cooling system, particularly selecting a radiator, is absolutely key in keeping your engine cool. And when the engine’s running cool, you stay cool.

When looking for a radiator for your rod, the best thing to start with is having a plan of just how much heat your engine is going to create. Are you planning on building a cruiser with a mild, 300-hp crate engine? Or will it be a little more serious of an engine that is packed into a tiny engine bay? Will you be running headers or manifolds? Headers create increased underhood temperatures.

Thinking about forced induction? What about air conditioning and an automatic trans? Superchargers or a turbo look and perform great, but they’ll add heat to the engine and under the hood.

All of these questions need to be asked — and answered before selecting a radiator. Unless you live in Barrow, Alaska, and plan on driving your rod in the winter, there is no such thing as too much radiator. What makes choosing a radiator tough is that many of our rods are limited on space and in many cases, the airflow could be less than adequate due to grilles, the radiator support or even a large AC condenser.

One of the first questions that comes up when researching radiators is the material; aluminum versus copper/brass.

Your hot rod originally came with a copper/brass design, but aluminum is now the choice of OEMs and most of the aftermarket. Aluminum is stronger and lighter, but truth be told, copper/brass material does extract heat more efficiently. However there are limitations to a copper/brass design when it comes to wall thickness, smaller tubes and the weaker material.

The tanks of Flex-a-lite’s radiators are built from an extrusion with unique ‘T’ channels that promote the dissipation of heat much more effectively. An added benefit is their strength for mounting points for the radiator as well as the fan.

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Dual-fan systems look sexy, but it’s important to choose an electric fan with sufficient airflow for your cooling needs, and a configuration that covers as much of the radiator as possible. The Flex-a-lite Black Magic single fan pulls 3,300 cfm of airflow while the dual-electric system shown pulls 2,500 cfm.

With aluminum being stronger, the cooling tubes can be much larger with thicker wall material while still being lighter by a long shot. This improves the coolant capacity and the area to pull the heat away from the coolant. As far as the debate over the cooling capabilities of aluminum versus copper/brass, Flex-a-lite, developed an aluminum radiator that provides much better heat dissipation.

Flex-a-lite, out of Fife, Washington, has been designing performance cooling products for over 50 years and developed a unique extruded aluminum tank design that provides 135 percent more heat transfer. These tanks feature T-channels that provide more surface area to remove heat than standard tanks.

Not only does this improve engine cooling, but in custom applications, these tanks provide a much easier and stronger mounting point for both the radiator itself and an electric fan.

These radiators, called the Flex-afit, are available in a number of sizes in crossflow and downflow designs. You can even have one custom built for your specific application and select the inlet/ outlet locations and overall size using a form you can download from their website (flex-a-lite.com).

Another question you’ll come across when researching a radiator is whether you need a crossflow or downflow design.

A downflow radiator has a horizontal top tank where the hot coolant is pumped.

It then flows down through the tubes to another tank on the bottom of the unit where it is pumped back into the engine.

A crossflow design has vertical tanks on the right and left sides of the core.

As you probably guessed, coolant enters in one of the top corners and flows across the radiator to the other side. In many cases a crossflow allows for a big62

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An electric fan is more efficient when pulling the air through the radiator versus pushing it through. This Flex-a-lite 16-inch diameter LoBoy model features a slim design and a 10-blade fan.

A crossflow radiator has tanks on the right and left sides and the coolant flows across the core to the lower outlet. This design generally allows more core surface area and is said to be a bit more effective but in the street rod world, it generally comes down to space, packaging and the original design.

ger surface area and increased capacity.

That said, in higher performance applications, the crossflow is said to be more efficient, but for street cars the difference would be nominal. Also, many older cars are designed to only work with a downflow radiator, making fitment the deciding factor.

As you zone in on a radiator, you’ll also need to consider a cooling fan. Since

many street rods spend time at lower rpm or even sitting idle at lights and cruising fairgrounds, an electric fan has advantages. An electric fan can pull its maximum airflow through the radiator even at lower engine rpm. You’ll save the drag of a mechanical fan at cruising speeds while improving the cooling capabilities at lower rpm. Remember though, you’ll need to ensure that your alternator can

Things that build heat If we would leave our cars and trucks stock, cooling wouldn’t be too much of an issue.

Then again, what fun would that be? When you’re shopping for a radiator, think about what you plan to do with the car as well as what kind of power mods will be used.

Small, sealed engine compartments with no venting and larger that stock engines.

A down-flow radiator means the hot engine coolant enters the radiator through a top tank and flows through the rows of cooling tubes and into a tank at the bottom of the radiator.

handle the added current draw.

Flex-a-lite offers a number of cooling fan options including electric single fans setups or dual fans. They also offer controllers that allow you to adjust the temperature at which the fans turn on. These

Power adders such as a roots blower will certainly add to higher engine temps.

Towing a trailer will put more load on the drivetrain.

Flex-a-lite controllers take the place of relays, and make wiring and controlling an electric fan easy.

Having a plan of attack will help you build a rod that will never run hot. Knowing your drivetrain, accessories and how

you plan to drive your rod all need to be considered when building a cooling system. If you have any questions or need a tip, look up the folks at Flex-a-lite. You’ll be glad you did! SRL Source: Flex-a-lite, flex-a-lite.com

888-351-8786 www.stopmycustom.com

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PARTS STORE

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At Street Rod Life, we’re always on the look-out for new parts that will make your rod a little quicker, smoother, or simply cooler. This installment of Parts Store brings you a variety of great new products to hit the market. If you would like more information, follow the website or give them a call — be sure to tell them Street Rod Life sent you!

Put it away protected Driven Racing Oil, Storage Defender Fuel & Oil Additives

Buckets of comfort

Be sure your engine is properly protected before you put it away for the winter. New Driven Storage Defender Oil and Gasoline Additives provide that desired protection and ensure you won’t be faced with costly corrosion-related repairs in the spring.

Each formulation features special corrosion inhibitors that work to counteract the damaging moisture buildup that results from ethanol-blended fuel. This buildup and resulting corrosion occurs at an accelerated pace during the winter months due to temperature swings. Therefore it is critical to pour in Storage Defender before your hot rod or classic goes into hibernation. Storage Defender also stabilizes fuel and cleans existing deposits in the combustion chamber. drivenracingoil.com 866.611.1820

JEGS, Rally Seats Original bucket seats look great in a muscle car or cruiser, but they certainly lack in comfort and support, especially if you’re looking to do any cornering or fun driving. JEGS now offers a line of Rally Seats that will deliver the looks and comfort in your project.

The new Rally Seats are formed with high-density, injection molded foam for long lasting comfort and support. They’re then covered with a durable black vinyl that looks great and is easy to maintain. The seats can be adjusted to fit anyone’s driving comfort with a full recline, partial forward tilt, as well as a sliding mechanism (hardware and sliders included). A headrest and rear storage pouch completes the design. jegs.com 800.345.4545

Be an outlaw Lunati, Bootlegger LS Camshafts The popular camshaft series for hot rodders that play by their own set of rules is now available for LS applications. Bootlegger Cams feature an extremely aggressive design that provides tons of low- and mid-range power, as well as a thumping exhaust note that lets everyone know you have arrived. These camshafts are the perfect blend of today’s design advancements and old-school attitude. lunatipower.com 662.892.1500

Even more new products

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

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Build a new shoebox Woodys Hot Rodz, Brand New ’57 Chevy Would anyone have ever thought that 58 years after being introduced, you could once again buy a brand new ’57 Chevy?

Woodys Hot Rodz of Bright, Indiana, are experts in the tri-five field and offer brand new steel bodies so you can start a project with fresh sheet metal rather than patching and welding out rust and dents. The bodies, available as a coupe, sedan, and even a convertible, are assembled with more high strength spot welds than

the factory pieces with emphasis on fit and finish.

The assembly includes the floor, firewall, dash, trunk floor, tail pan, rear window-to-trunk panel, trunk walls, wheel housings, outer quarter panels, outer quarter to trunk panels, trunk hinges, inner & outer rockers. Woody’s also offers other packages and even complete builds. woodyshotrodz.com 855.567.1957

Suede and stitches Grant Products, Steering Wheels One of the most important components you’ll chose to finish off your interior is the steering wheel. Think about it; any time spent driving your rod is time spent behind the wheel, looking at the wheel and gripping the wheel! You better make the right choice.

Grant Products International knows all about steering wheels and they’ve just released a complete line of suede steering wheels for all drivers. The Suede Series provides a sturdy, 3-spoke design that is wrapped in premium suede with hand stitched custom colored thread, racing center stripe, and a contoured grip for the ultimate comfort and styling.

The steering wheels are built from aluminum with Grant’s “Full Hoop Design” to deliver comfort and strength. The wheels have a 3.5-inch dish and a 13.75-inch diameter. The suede wraps are available in gray, red, blue, yellow, and orange. grantproducts.com

In-tank fuel tanks Aeromotive, ’32 Ford Stealth Tank Aeromotive is known for fueling some of the quickest and fastest race cars around. That technology has given them the know-how to help you build a reliable, trouble-free fuel delivery system for your street rod.

One of their latest products is their Stealth Fuel Tank for ’32 Fords. This new tank features a unique fuel pump sending unit that secures a 340 Stealth model pump in the tank combined with an innovative baffling/tray system to control fuel slosh and keep the pump submerged ensuring consistent pump performance, even at low fuel levels and extreme driving conditions.

The sending unit features three AN ORB ports (return, send, and vent) and is supplied with a pre-pump filter sock and internal return line tubing. The tanks are finished in a durable silver powdercoat finish and includes a factory style sending unit. Aeromotive offers a growing number of applications. aeromotiveinc.com 913.647.7300 STREETRODLIFE.COM

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TOOLS ACCESSORIES STUFF

PARTS STORE Fat Ford frames Fatman Frames, ’55–’56 Ford Chassis Looking to make your ’55–’56 Ford handle like a new car combined with the perfect stance? Fatman Fabrication now offers a complete chassis for the classic Ford that is designed to bolt right to the factory Ford body mounts. Think of that — improved ride quality, exceptional handling, and the ideal stance all in one package!

The all new chassis starts with heavy-wall rectangular tubing that is mandrel bent on CNC-machines for accuracy and strength resulting in a solid foundation for your big Ford. The front suspension consists of Fatman’s proven IFS including RideTech coilovers and a power rack. A 9-inch rearend is fit with 3.70 gears and a posi unit with a 4-bar and coilovers holding it together.

Fatman offers a number of options so you can build your Ford exactly as you envision. Another nice feature is that Fatman is an Accredited Manufacturer so they can supply their chassis with a legal VIN including and a Statement of Origin. fatmanfabrication.com 704.545.0369

Dress it up TCI, GM 4L80E/4L85E Chrome-Plated Stock-Depth Transmission Pan This new chrome transmission pan from TCI offers customers a way to dress up their 4L80E/4L85E and 6x Six-Speed transmissions. It is the only stock-depth pan on the market.

The transmission pan has often been an overlooked part of the drivetrain — until now. The only stamped, stock-depth pan available, this piece was designed for optimal ground clearance. The transmission pan is chrome-plated for rust and corrosion resistance, features a gasket and drain plug, and is embossed with the TCI logo for superior looks. tciauto.com 888.776.9824

Even more new products

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

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Steele Rubber now offers front and rear door seal kits for ’66– ’69 hard top Continentals as well as ’66–’67 convertibles. The kits are available in pairs for the front or rear doors and present an au-

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PARTS STORE Big power, cool package XS Power, Retro Look Batteries XS Power is excited to introduce two new powerful batteries that complement the vintage styling on any hot rod or custom ride. The new A3400 RetroBattery, and V3400 Custom Battery not only provide the performance that XS Power is known for, they also have killer styling!

Built to the popular group-34 sizing, the new A3400 and V3400 batteries are a direct fit for many applications, and can be used in either top or side post configurations. Each battery produces 3,300 max amps of current, with an incredible 1,000 cold cranking amps.

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Interiors for drivers LeBaron, EZ Boy Interiors

Turn right (and left) Borgeson, Quick Steering for Mopars If you’re done with grunting to pull your Mopar into a parking spot, or need to tighten up the old power steering, Borgeson has you covered!

Borgeson Universal offers a quick ratio power steering conversion box for ’62–’79 cars that will bolt directly to the stock frame or K-member! The box is a remanufactured modern gearbox that undergoes extensive modifications to create a bolt-in unit that only requires a minor mod to the factory column.

The power steering unit has just 3.5 turns to go stop-to-stop with a 14:1 ratio creating a firm, modern feel. The unit is available with either an 1-1/8-inch or 1-1/4-inch sector shaft to fit the two available original pitman arms. borgeson.com 860.482.8283

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

LeBaron Bonney Interiors are known for their high quality interior materials and kits for many antique cars and restorations, but what if you’re not going for a concourse restoration? They now offer a high quality series of materials and applications at a great price.

The new EZ Boy Daily Driver Interiors feature original patterns and styling but are made from non-original materials, rather than exact factory materials. These textiles were chosen to resemble the original design while providing something more appropriate for casual use rather than an award winning restoration.

Complete kits or individual components are available including seat upholstery, door panels, carpet, and headliners. They even include small parts and hardware where necessary! Interiors are available for many GM vehicles through 1957, ’31–’51 Mercury, Model A Fords, and more. lebaronbonney.com 800.221.5408

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Picking the right camshaft for your hot rod can be confusing

Words / Photos Brandon Flannery

C

hoosing the right camshaft can appear to be a complicated adventure. Time, technology, and outright hearsay can all swirl together and cause confusion. While there are plenty of off-the-shelf cam grinds that will do the trick beautifully, what works in one car may turn another into a dog.

You need to make sure you get the one that works for your specific application.

We asked several industry professionals to share their thoughts on choosing the right cam for a hot rod. Ultimately, we strongly recommend calling the tech support of your favorite company and letting their expertise do the hard math for you. It’s what they do all day, every day, but knowing how and why will make the conversation smoother.

Right off the bat, there are some specs that need to be looked at. These include the vehicle’s gross weight, engine size, 70

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compression ratio, torque converter, rear axle ratio, and tire height. The next set of questions deal with the intended purpose and desired rpm range. The needs of a car used primarily for driving around shows or on road trips will be significantly different than those of a car that will blast down the dragstrip or even around an autocross.

When camshaft pioneers like Harvey Crane and Joe Lunati began grinding lobes, they were in search of more power. With this increase came a distinctive idle lope that came to signify a hot or modified car. Often times these were more radical profiles designed to work at high rpms. They generally didn’t do well on the street and around town. Today many hot rodders want that distinctive note while maintaining driveability. Thankfully with time and technology several companies have

solved the puzzle on how to get the best of both worlds. COMP Cam’s Thumpr line and Lunati’s Bootlegger series both offer aggressive exhaust notes and a healthy increase of lower-end power while maintaining driveability.

Weight

A big variable among hot rods is weight.

That seat-of-the-pants sinking feeling during acceleration is mostly the application of torque. Getting that torque into an rpm area best suited to the weight of the car is critical.

Bryan Pitcher from COMP Cams shares some insight: “For a heavier car we’ll tighten up the LSA (Lobe Separation Angle) to give it more torque to get all that mass moving faster. On a lighter car we can open up the LSA and give it a broader powerband. Done right, both will feel quick.”

Engine Size If the engine is a larger cubic inch (say 372–400+c.i.) it’s more difficult to “over-cam” it.

Allan Bechtloff from Crane Cams elaborates: “Larger cubic-inch engines simply absorb big duration cams. But the opposite is true for smaller engines.

Smaller displacements like 289, 302, and 327 can easily be over-cammed resulting in insufficient torque and poor performance. A little engine needs rpm to gain the horsepower back, and lots of rpm isn’t a good idea for a street engine.”

Heads

The heads have a lot of influence on the right cam. Many aftermarket head producers like RHS, AFR, World Products, and Trick Flow have flow numbers and calculators online. Aluminum heads also draw heat better than iron.

Vehicle weight is a huge factor in choosing the right cam. Heavier cars require more lower-end torque to get their mass moving.

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Not saying this car has it, but a wild cam and over-carburetion can make for a car that’s hard to drive.

This helps prevent detonation, so an iron-headed engine with 11:1 compression acts like a 10:1 with a set of identical spec heads in aluminum. Of course all milled and/or ported and polished heads need to be bench flowed and CC’d so the numbers can be taken into consideration.

Springs

When choosing a camshaft, most experts feel that it’s best to purchase a set of springs that are matched to the camshaft.

Additionally, springs wear over time.

Lunati’s Mike McLaughlin explains: “Many people don’t realize that springs are a wear item. They have a very demanding job to do and they do it over and over again. If you have, say a 1972 350, and you have the 1972 350 springs, they’ve had a long life. If you add a bigger cam, not only are they weak, they now have to try and work even harder.

Other than the old Z/28 and LT-1 engines, most factory Chevy small-block springs won’t handle a .500 lift. You will not be happy with the results. I’m not saying you can’t reuse your old springs, but they’ll need to be checked out thoroughly at the very least. It’s not a great area to try and save money in.”

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Lift

Another area of debate is lift. Every “backyard Billy” who ever threw a mail-order camshaft into his air-shocked Torino in high school magically transforms into a Cam Wizard when the talk turns to lobes and lift. Unfortunately times have changed, and too much can be either way too much or not enough depending on the application.

Lunati’s McLaughlin elaborates: “In the ’70s if you had a big block with the oval ports, a .500 lift was a lot. These days, if you have an LS6 or an LS7 they easily run a .530 right out of the box. You also have to look at piston to valve clearance.”

Crane’s Bechtloff adds that big lift is simply useless if the heads don’t flow.

“Anything over what the heads can actually handle is wasted,” he says. “Additionally, bigger lift requires higher spring tension, which in turn increases the friction that’s produced. It’s ideal to run the minimum spring tension required, especially on a street engine. Valve motion cancels spring tension, and at idle it can’t overcome that tension. It backs up into the tappet and lobe, and there’s also not much lubrication at low rpm, which can lead to problems. You want to run just enough spring tension to control the valvetrain.”

Vacuum

The amount of vacuum the engine produces has two key components: The cubic-inch size of the engine and the amount of overlap in the camshaft. Vacuum is often required to assist the braking system, so a lack of vacuum can make a nice car seem very unpleasant. The larger the engine the more potential it has for vacuum.

Bechtloff from Crane says: “A cam that can ‘hit a lick’ has an increased overlap (when both the intake and exhaust valves are open simultaneously) which reduces the vacuum signal. This situation coupled with over-carburetion can make for a lousy, hard-to-drive monster.”

Options include adding a vacuum canister if the cam isn’t too radical, or a vacuum pump driven off the engine belts.

It the car is equipped with an OEM-style distributor, an Adjustable Vacuum Advance Kit may be necessary to dial in the distributor to gain back some drivability.

Cruise rpm

In the mid ’80s many of the OEMs went to hydraulic roller cams. While many people think in terms of this allowing higher rpms, they were used for quite the opposite reason.

3 1

2

4

Know your cams 1. Mechanical flat tappet: Usually referred to as a “solid” lifter cam, these are the backbone of the muscle car era, and are popular in bracket racing. Care needs to be taken when breaking these in, and they need periodic lash adjustments. Mechanical lifters have an internal spring in the pushrod seat that can wear, causing a lash variance.

3. Hydraulic roller: The most popular cam in pushrod-style engines manufactured over the last two decades. Hydraulic lifters eliminate the need to set valve lash, while the roller wheel allows more sophisticated camshaft profiles. They have an exceptionally “flat” power curve and are a popular retrofit into older engines.

2. Hydraulic flat tappet: The most popular OEM camshaft type through the late ’80s. They offer ease of maintenance and a power curve that tops out just over 7,000 rpm. Choices range from grinds developed to improve bottom end torque for towing to aggressive profiles with rough idle characteristics many enthusiasts seek. Hydraulic lifters use the engine’s oiling system to hold the pushrod cup, as opposed to springs.

4. Mechanical roller: Designed for applications that can exceed 10,000 rpm, they are the ultimate in efficiency. They are mostly used in purely competition applications, but can be used in ultra-high performance street engines with higher compression or power adders. Valve lash should be checked periodically for best results.

Bechtloff says: “With the onset of emissions and increased fuel economy, overdrive transmissions lowered cruising rpm significantly. Cars now spend hours at low rpm, often in the 1800 range, and this has led to excessive camshaft wear.

Hydraulic rollers solved the problem with less internal friction and increased lubrication. This directly influences hot rodders with the popularity of today’s overdriven transmissions.”

McLaughlin of Lunati says that tire size can often be an overlooked factor.

“Most gear ratios are based around a 26inch tall tire. Hot rods often use bigger rear tires, and this affects the ratios. A set of 4.11 gears can be reduced to a set of 3.50–3.70 gears. We’ll need to adjust the cam’s power range to match.”

more complex in that you have to set up the end play, and the lifters have a wheel assembly on the bottom. They can also be retrofit in older flat tappet blocks. Flat tappet cams are more budget friendly and are less complex but they have their constraints as well.”

Bechtloff of Crane Cams also elaborated on the flat tappet and hydraulic roller decision. “If a street rodder guy finally has the money that he wanted when he was 17, today’s hydraulic roller cams let him have his cake and eat it too. It sounds the part, makes the power, it’s far superior in handling lift, and it eliminates the hazards of breaking in the cam and the hassle of having to use specially formulated oils.”

Flat tappet, roller, or hydraulic roller?

Flat tappet cams are the cheapest route, but they create a lot of friction and require specially formulated oil with every change to avoid lobe damage. The mechanical versions also require periodic lash adjustments.

Roller cams are the best, but more expensive. They offer more torque and horsepower thanks to reduced friction and are generally free from break-in hazards. Hydraulic roller lifters are easy on the valvetrain and run with less spring tension. They maintain their lash while

COMP’s Pitcher says the choice of flat tappet or roller comes up quite a bit: “Though the roller cams may be a little more money, in the long run they are the best way to go. They are more dependable, they make more power, you can run a more aggressive lobe, and there’s much less friction in the engine. Because of that you don’t have to worry about breaking in the cam or keep using special oil. In addition to a higher cost, they are a little

In summary

mechanical versions may only require annual adjustments.

Hydraulic roller cams are the best of both worlds. For a street application there is nothing better but they require additional components and cost more when upgrading. As a side note, many builders with rare engines, or valuable “numbers matching” muscle cars retrofit hydraulic roller cams to eliminate the possibility of damage, while storing the original components for posterity.

In the end, it’s best to speak with an expert. They are well versed in working with the required figures and customer’s desired outcomes. COMP Cams offers a free online download of its CAM Quest software for those who like to compare different variables. It’s also worth noting that the difference in an “off-the-shelf ” flat tappet and a “custom ground” flat tappet cam and spring kit with a slightly better cast cam is usually right under $200. It may be worth the extra money to get exactly what you need the first time, and get the most out of your application. Most cam companies have tech lines and knowledgeable people ready and waiting to help you. Give them a call and like the saying goes: Do it right, do it once. SRL Sources: Crane Cams, cranecams.com; COMP Cams, compcams.com; Lunati Cams, lunatipower.com

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Rick & Terri Osburn’s 1938 Chevy pickup makes memories... fast

Words / Photos Rod Short

I

t stands apart at almost every event it attends. At first sight, it might be hard to tell if this vintage pickup belongs at a car show or at the drag strip. How many gassers have you seen at events that can walk the walk, but just can’t back up the talk?

Any thoughts of all show and no go are instantly erased as Rick and Terri Osburn’s ’38 Chevy pulls the wheels up five feet and marches down the strip to a 10-second et. Impressive? You bet! And the Appomattox, Virginia-based couple have been having a blast with the pickup since the end of the century.

“I was working in New York and was forced to take some back roads home. At one house I noticed a grille and a fender of this truck sticking out from this guy’s deck,” Rick explains when asked about how he found this truck. “I pulled off the road to look at it, and before I could get out, the owner yelled 74

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

out, ‘it ain’t for sale!’ and then slammed the door. Six months later, I stopped by again and he was out in his yard, so I got to talk to him. A year after that, I stopped by again and the guy said his was wanting a new kitchen, so he put a number on it and I brought it home!”

While most hot rodders into pre-war Chevys gravitate towards passenger cars, Chevrolet’s line of pickup trucks in 1938 were noteworthy for several reasons. The 1937–40 series of pickups filled the gap between the light duty and commercial line of trucks with 3/4- and 1-ton models to the public for the very first time. Available in stake, platform, and panel versions, power came from a 216c.i. inline-six that was rated at 85 horsepower. The 1938 production year was considered particularly attractive as well.

The high compression 383c.i. small block is fueled by a vintage Hilborn injection system that originally powered Gene Altizer of the S&S Race team to a victory at the 1963 NHRA Nationals at Speed City Indianapolis. The Hall of Famer even helped tune-in the system.

“When we took it home, it actually started up so we could drive it up on the trailer,” Rick continues.

The truck was quickly dismantled to build into a street rod.

Fiberglass fenders were added, along with a straight axle, and black primer. A small block was also dropped in, then some vintage era wheels, and the Osburns had a street cruiser.

“We wound up driving it on the street for 14 years,” Rick says. “I eventually went to a nostalgia race event and then that was it. I found the place this truck wanted to be.”

Rick started out having fun running 12.70s with a carburetor on his pickup. Five years later, a series of improvements and refinements have him running solidly in the mid 10s. When photographed, Rick was a running his Kevin Simpson built 383 Chevy short block with a Scat crank, steel H-beam rods, and

SRP 12.5:1 pistons. Ported and polished Pro Comp aluminum heads with 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves add some seriousness to this engine combo, but the fuel induction system is what really turns heads.

Atop the long block assembly is a vintage Hilborn mechanical fuel injection with quite a racing pedigree. Rick was at a nostalgia race where he met Hall of Fame drag racer Gene Altizer, who took an interest in Rick’s ’38 Special. Altizer is a founding member of the S&S Race Team out of Falls Church, Virginia, that set records and racked up wins across the country.

Altizer had a wicked, race winning A/Gas Anglia and other team members included Fred Bear, Dave Hales, and others back in the day.

Apparently Gene really liked the pickup, and when Terri mentioned to him in passing about wanting to swap to a vintage mechanical fuel injection unit, Gene had a plan. Not long after, Gene brought over his Hilborn setup that he ran back in the ’60s. In fact, Gene even helped tune the setup to get it dialed-in properly.

Underneath the truck, the frame was boxed, braced, and stiffened and then fitted with a Ford 9-inch rear containing 5.20:1 gears and Moser axles. WAC Customs in Torrington, Connecticut, provided the straight front axle, while Pro Comp shocks were used all around. Front disc brakes with Plymouth Volare rotors and GM calipers were bolted on the front, while the rear uses Ford drum brakes. Halibrand knock-off wheels shod with Mickey Thompson rubber make up the rolling stock.

When scaled, the truck weighs in at 2,800 pounds with a 65/35 front-to-rear weight distribution.

Together, Rick and Terri have been invited to run nearly every weekend at events throughout the country over the last five years, and despite the work, they admit to having the time of their lives.

“My wife and I strive to get the most we can out of each day and we’ve really enjoyed the people and new friends we’ve met with this truck along the way. Making good memories last a long time,” Rick says. SRL STREETRODLIFE.COM

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“You lose a half-second off your elapsed time when you wheelstand like this,” Rick explains about the consistent 4–5-feet wheelies. “But this is what everybody remembers and is where I have the most fun.”

The stock frame was boxed, braced, and stiffened to support the wheel stands and landings. A 9-inch Ford with stout 5.20:1 gears keeps the rpm high all the way down the 1,320.

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The office is sparse and set up for the strip.

The Moon tank is functional and behind the chrome light covers, there’s wiring and functional headlights. In fact, the little truck is still licensed.

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RACK ATTACK Flaming River continues to improve power rack and pinions for rodders

One of Flaming River’s newest products is a complete rack and pinion kit for ’67–’72 C10 pickups.

Words / Photos Todd Ryden

O

Each Flaming River Cradle Kit is designed to bolt-in to the stock frame with no cutting, welding, or drilling.

The latest power rack out of the Berea, Ohio, plant is a front steer unit that will fit Mustang Fox body applications (the style used on many aftermarket chassis). The completely new rack features precise billet construction and new internal components to deliver over 6 inches of smooth travel. It’s about 12 pounds lighter than OE, stronger, and much better looking.

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ne of the most important systems on any car is the steering.

As hot rodders, we tend to put power, appearance, and even the exhaust note above some of the more critical areas such as braking and steering. We’re kind of backwards that way.

When you think about it, steering isn’t really as rousing as a new thumping cam or adding 13-inch rotors now is it?

You don’t hear a lot of bench racing sessions talking about how great their steering worked on the drive to the nationals last weekend. That is, until you have a problem or simply have never had great steering. The good news is that there is a company that makes cool, great looking rack and pinion and steering solutions — Flaming River.

If you don’t think it’s possible to make steering exciting, then you haven’t seen Flaming River’s all new billet

Looking to upgrade from an old sloppy gearbox to a more efficient rack and pinion? Flaming River offers complete cradle kits that are designed to bolt-in place. Applications range from tri-fives, early Mustangs, Camaros, Chevelles, T-birds, and more.

power steering rack. It just introduced a new model based on the ’79–’93 Mustang (Fox body) featuring a strong 1-inch diameter shaft that is fitted with all new internals: the piston, valve, bearings, gears and everything — no cores. The rack bolts in place and delivers 6 inches of travel for maximum turning radius (think really small parking lot doughnuts).

Flaming River is no stranger to power steering. Back in the ’80s it introduced a reproduction Pinto rack with the goal of helping out hot rodders by supplying better parts than were available. That was the proverbial snowball that started things rolling. Soon other new products were developed, including its U-joints, steering boxes, steering columns, and much more. Today that snowball is still building speed and size as Flaming River has moved into high-output alternators and other electronics to expand its existing line of advanced battery disconnect switches, shocks, columns, springs, and even header applications.

Steering solutions remain one of the largest components of the growing business, offering a long list of power and manual racks for specific vehicles as well as universal applications — even righthand drive units. Another one of Flaming River’s innovative product lines is the rack and pinion cradle kit.

If you choose a power assist cradle kit, it will be supplied with a power steering pump and brackets for your specific application.

The cradle kits allow you to replace the slow and worn old steering box with a complete rack and pinion steering kit. The base of these kits is a heavy-gauge steel cradle designed for each specific application that bolts to the original frame. When Flaming River says “bolt-in” they mean it, as each application is designed so there is no cutting, drilling, or welding. This cradle secures the new steering rack (power or manual) to provide improved road and performance handling. Depending

on the application, some systems can be used with the stock column while other kits will have one of Flaming River’s new columns included.

As the winter season creeps in, maybe it’s time to consider upgrading your steering so you’re ready to take on the back roads and enjoy a smooth, quick steering system. Click your mouse over to flamingriver.com or give them a call to see about a cradle kit for your project. SRL Source: Flaming River, flamingriver.com

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with MISFITS, INC.

I

f you’re ever in Spokane, Austin, or Las Vegas and find yourself surrounded by cool rods with a great stance and attitude, you may have rolled into a gathering of misfits. Not quite the land of misfit toys — but close — it’s probably the car club known as Misfits, Inc. Misfits, Inc. Custom Car Club was founded in 2012 in Spokane, Washington, by a group of like-minded enthusiasts who kept running into each other at shows and gatherings. There really were no set guidelines on vehicle types to be a part of the club. It’s more about

the build style and overall mindset of the owner. In checking out the member’s cars, you’ll see all types of models and eras, yet they all seem to fit together in a weird sort of Misfit sense and style.

Today, the club also has chapters in Austin and Las Vegas, and the groups get together at premiere events in each city at least once a year. They also help raise money for the Inland Northwest Car Club Council Scholarship Fund, as well as the Living the Dream Foundation.

“Our club is open to all makes, models, and eras so long as the members agree

Club President Deron Nicholson is ready for a weekend road trip in his ’55 Chieftain Safari wagon, packed with gear, and towing a ’56 Crestliner Voyager ski boat.

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that if it misfits but fits [our] the style, we’ll open our arms to you and your vehicle. Bad-ass stuff has no boundaries,” club president Deron Nicholson explains.

When you look at the breadth of club vehicles, you’ll notice that there is a little bit of everything. From a patina’d Pontiac two-door wagon pulling a vintage ski boat, to a ’59 Metro International delivery truck, to a Hemi powered five-window coupe, Impalas, tri-fives, and more.

Uniqueness counts when you hang with the Misfits, Inc. SRL

misfitsinc.org

A pair of low slung Impalas. Leif Sammons own the gold ’66 (below) while Brian Anderson drives the maroon ’65 (above).

Austin, TX

This ’31 coupe belongs to member Ryan McCrery and doesn’t have any parts newer than 1958. The 5-window has a detailed 392c.i. Hemi topped with a 6x2 Offenhauser intake and oodles of incredible vintage speed parts (dig the Electroline headlights).

Las Vegas, NV Spokane, WA

Know a club you’d like to see featured in an upcoming issue?

Shoot us an email at tryden@ xcelerationmedia.com.

Rick McCrery owns this ’55 4-door Chevy wagon.

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Member Greg Fautch’s ’66 pickup.

MASTER PLAN Selecting the right master cylinder is one of the most important choices

Words / Photos Todd Ryden

T

he master cylinder plays a direct role in just about every aspect of your rod’s brake system. From pedal effort, to modulation, and the overall braking effectiveness of the system, the master cylinder is where braking starts. That’s why choosing the proper bore size is so important.

The master cylinder retains the brake fluid in its reservoir and converts the mechanical effort from the brake pedal into hydraulic pressure to activate the brake calipers or wheel cylinders. Simply stated, inside the unit there is a piston that is pushed through a bore by a push rod connected to the brake pedal assembly.

As the piston is pushed into the cylinder it pressurizes the system with brake fluid.

Within the cylinder, there are two ports, an inlet port, and an outlet port. The inlet port allows fluid to enter the cylinder from the reservoir. When the piston is pushed past the inlet port, the cylinder is sealed and pressure can begin to build. The piston pushes fluid through the outlet port, creating pressure that acts upon a slave

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In a tandem master cylinder, brake fluid is retained in two independent reservoirs. If one brake circuit has a failure, the other will continue functioning properly. Notice the ports that direct fluid into the cylinder chamber.

cylinder (the wheel cylinder or caliper piston), which in turn pushes the brake pad against the rotating drum or brake rotor.

Many older vehicles were equipped with a single outlet master cylinder which should be one of the first items you update on any street rod. The reason is simple, safety. With a single outlet master cylinder, there is only one cylinder creating pressure and if any part of the hydraulic system develops a leak, the entire system loses pressure. For example, if a rear brake line fails, not only

would the rear brakes be inoperative, the front brakes wouldn’t work either! Luckily, a single outlet cylinder can easily be upgraded to a dual master cylinder.

A dual outlet master cylinder, often referred to as tandem, splits the front and the rear system, which keeps the two networks separate. This maintains braking function if one system were to have a failure.

Wilwood has been designing and manufacturing high performance brake systems for over 35 years and understands the needs of street rods and muscle

Pedal ratio

Knowing the pedal ratio (mechanical leverage) of the brake lever will allow you to increase (or decrease) the amount of force required to activate the brakes. By altering the pedal ratio, you can adjust the brake pressure created without changing the amount of pressure you’re applying by foot. The trade-off is that the amount of pedal travel necessary will change.

To calculate your pedal ratio, you’ll need to take two measurements. First, measure the distance from the pivot point of the brake lever to the middle of the foot pad. Then divide it by the distance from the pivot point to the pushrod connection.

A – The length from the pivot point to the center of the pedal.

Divided by: B – The length from the pivot point to the master cylinder pushrod.

Equals the Pedal Ratio Example, A is 5 inches, B is 1 inch, the ratio is 5:1 By adjusting the pedal length or pushrod attachment point, you can increase/decrease the brake force without increasing the pedal effort. The diagram illustrates the measurements and effects on the brake pressure. The catch here is that the amount of pedal travel will change. If you have a pedal ratio of 5:1, with

cars. For street applications, they recommend a tandem design that has separate outlets for the front and rear brakes.

When selecting a master cylinder, it is recommended to determine whether you plan to run power assist or stick with manual brakes. When making this choice, there are two things to consider. First, does your engine make enough vacuum for a vacuum booster? The booster needs at least 16 inches of vacuum at idle. If you have a cam with more duration than stock, it’s unlikely that your engine pulls enough vacuum. Second, do you have room for a vacuum booster? Wilwood recommends you use the largest diameter booster for the space you have, with 8-inch diameter unit being the minimum size you should consider. If you determine you have enough vacuum and space for a power booster, then Wilwood recommends using a 1.12-inch bore master cylinder.

When it comes to manual brakes the variables increase. There are a few typical bore sizes that you’ll come upon such as 7/8 inch, 15/16 inch, or 1 inch. The bore diameters will have a direct effect on the pedal feel and travel.

Selecting a master cylinder is not only important for the operation of the brake system, but it will also have an effect on the pedal feel. This is where knowing the pedal ratio and the force used will come into play. You may like a firm pedal feel, but what if you’re building a street rod and your better-half drives it – will they

FIGURE 1

A = Distance from pivot point to middle of push/pull point B = Distance from pivot to point of push on master cylinder P = Pivot point F = Force or push

100 pounds of force applied to the foot pad, the input pressure to the master cylinder (5x100) is 500 pounds. If the master cylinder travel required to engage the brakes is .500-inch the pedal travel will be (.500x5) 2.5 inches. Increasing the ratio to 6:1 will deliver 600 pounds of pressure to the cylinder and the stroke would be lengthened to (6x.500) 3 inches.

Selecting the proper master cylinder for your application is key to the overall performance of the system and ‘feel’ of the brake pedal. Wilwood offers a variety of master cylinders to meet the demands of street rods up through road course racers.

welcome the stiff pedal as well?

Keep in mind that a larger cylinder bore moves more fluid for a given stroke, which means less pedal travel. However, it also produces less output pressure for a given input pressure compared to a smaller bore, which means you will need more leg effort to achieve the same stopping power. A smaller cylinder produces more pressure for a given input pressure, but will have more travel before the calipers begin to clamp. If you have a long pedal ratio and use a small bore cylinder, you can end up with a lot of pedal travel and a very soft pedal requiring little ef-

fort. Conversely, a short pedal ratio combined with a large bore cylinder will produce little pedal travel, but will require a lot of effort to slow the vehicle.

As you can see, there is no one guideline when selecting a master cylinder as there are so many variables such as the caliper piston area, pedal ratio, vehicle weight, suspension, even seat position. It is highly recommended to use components from a single source since manufacturers design and engineer their products to work together. SRL Source: Wilwood, wilwood.com

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EVENT COVERAGE

HOT ROD REUNION NEW ENGLAND

Words / Photos Rod Short

F

lipping through old magazines, dredging through a box of old pictures, or reminiscing with friends are great ways to revisit memories of yesterday. Yet, when it comes to drag racing, nothing is really better than seeing some vintage iron, hearing the horsepower fire to life, and breathing in tire smoke and spent racing fuel. That’s exactly what racers and fans experienced at the third annual NHRA New England Hot Rod Reunion presented by AAA Insurance.

Just north of the Boston-metropolitan area, fans gathered at New England Dragway in Epping, New Hampshire, to celebrate three days of classic cars and quarter-mile racing, while honoring a number of local drag racing legends. Northeastern Funny Car driver Al Segrini was named Grand Marshal of this year’s event, while Walt Markert, Nick Marshall, Dave Vermilya, Jack Merkel, Charlie Seabrook, and Walt Weney were all honored as well.

Of course, the biggest stars were the wide variety of classic hot rods, dragsters, altereds, wild A/FX cars, rail jobs, gassers, trucks, exhibition vehicles, and flip-top funny cars. It was great to see the youngsters and old-timers sharing a common bond of both fascination and appreciation for hot rods from years gone by.

On the track, Tony Bartone wrapped up another Nostalgia Top Fuel championship with his win at Epping when he defeated Dusty Green. Rick Bernasconi won 7.0 Pro, Scott Hudson reigned supreme in Gas eliminator, and Norbert Viveiros Jr. was the champ in Modified.

Earl Storey won Nostalgia Super Stock, Mike Clifford was the last man standing in Top Stock, and Jason Mazzotta took the top spot in Hot Rod. In Pro Comp, Wayne Hoffman took home top honors, while Doug Adams, Drank Silva, and Fred 84

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

Nostalgia Funny Cars were in abundance at Epping! TV Tommy Ivo’s Rod Shop Dodge (foreground) and Bruce Larson’s USA-1 Corvette were among the historic racers on display for all to see.

Clark were the victors in the Flathead, East Coast Gasser, and Top Sportsman categories respectively.

The New England Hot Rod Reunion was produced by the Wally Parks NHRA Motorsports Museum and benefits the facility located in Pomona, California. The museum’s mission is to celebrate the impact of motorsports on American culture by collecting, preserving, and exhibiting the vehicles, their stories and the enthusiasts that represent America’s affection for — and the influence of — automotive speed and style. For more information visit: nhramuseum.org. SRL

One of the most popular cars on the grounds was Jack Merkel’s original 1933 Willys. The car ran deep into the 8-second zone in the late ’60s. Ron Norman of Hebron, Illinois, currently owns the restored car.

Chip Brown from Pennsville, New Jersey, won both the Favorite Competition Car and the New England Dragway Favorite award with this ’64 Chrysler 300K.

For even more pictures from the Hot Rod Reunion event, search “New England” at StreetRodLife.com.

Going home with the Best Shine & Detail award was John Beam of Fitchburg, Massachusetts, with this ’55 Chevy 150 sedan. Beam used a 383 stroker under the hood backed by 6-speed tranny and Moser 9-inch.

Mark Keenan of Sudbury, Massachusetts (foreground) runs a Flathead Ford in his ’70 vintage front-engine dragster.

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Guy Moran of Britain, Connecticut, was one of 73 entries who attempted to qualify in Hot Rod eliminator. Moran made the field in the 41st spot with an 11.085 timeslip at 120.3 mph.

The unrestored Greer & Jodoin 1923 T-bucket roadster was built for competition in 1970–71 with a blown 365c.i. small-block Chevy. Put in storage over 40 years ago, it ran a best of 9-seconds flat at 165 mph.

Brian Lombard’s sanitary ’61 Chevy Biscayne was low qualifier in Nostalgia Super Stock with 409 power under the hood and ran as quick as a 9.419 during eliminations. Pretty impressive for a stock X-frame chassis car!

Gregg & Chris Grubel’s Olds-powered ’51 Chevy running out of Port Clinton, Pennsylvania, is well known at many nostalgia events and ran with the East Coast Gassers group during eliminations.

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Gary Gerard and Bill Atwood’s “Flashback” altered wheelbase ’65 Belvedere was a wheels-up crowd pleaser coming off the line. It runs a classic A/FX combination with a 426 Hemi backed by a Torqueflite automatic and a Dana 60 rearend.

After qualifying with a 5.911 ET at 246.57 mph, Steve Harwood raced his Nitro Hemi Nostalgia Top Fuel dragster to the finals only to turn on the red light against season champ Tony Bartone.

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The “Filthy Forty” Willys, run by Charlie Hill with Pork Zartman behind the wheel, was one of the best known Gassers from the East Coast. Running a 283-injected Chevy small block, they were a part of the S&S Team that included K.S. Pittman and Dave Hales.

In Nostalgia Super Stock, Earl Storey from Westboro, Massachusetts, won his class in his injected, altered wheelbase ’65 Chevy II. He ran a 9.795 elapsed time at 136.11 to defeat Brain Lombard.

One of the faster doorslammers on the grounds was Cliff Pelissier’s A/Gas ’37 Pro Mod-style Chevy running on a 9-flat index.

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

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9/23/15 3:20 PM

SHOCKS SHOCKS for SHOCKS RODS A primer for tuning adjustable street rod shocks Words Jeff Smith / Photos Bill Irwin

S

treet rodders have never trusted black boxes. By definition a black box is anything you really can’t tune with a screwdriver or a hammer. So factory EFI, torque converters, and even shock absorbers fit into this category. But not all shocks are un-tunable.

That’s the beauty of an adjustable shock. Don’t like the ride on your brand new street rod? Knowledgeable rodders are aware that ride quality isn’t tied solely to spring rates. In fact, you can have near rock-hard springs with a soft shock and create a couch potato ride with the flick of the wrist - if you know which knob to turn.

But not all adjustable shocks are created equal. There’s no amendment to the Constitution for shock absorbers. Within the adjustable category there are single, double, and even now triple adjustable shocks. We’ll focus on double adjustable for this story. Before we get into adjusting them however, let’s talk about what those dials really deliver.

Shocks perform the essential duty of dampening the action of a spring. When a spring is compressed such as when a car hits a bump, the spring will just as quick90

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

ly want to release that energy. If the spring is allowed to move freely without dampening the car seems to bounce forever (you’ve probably seen this on the road in cars with dead shocks). So what we call a shock absorber is really a dampener, but we’ll stick with the common usage.

Shocks operate in two states of movement. The first is compression – when the suspension pushes the movable shaft into the shock body. This is often referred to as bump or even jounce. The second action the shock must control is when the rod is pulled outward of the shock body.

This is often labeled as rebound, but can also be referred to as extension.

Single adjustable shocks usually only offer rebound adjustment, but this is not universal. More importantly, adjusting the rebound also performs the same adjustment to the compression side.

This means if you stiffen the rebound, the compression valving becomes stiffer. This may not be (and often not) what you desire either for ride quality or handling. The beauty of a double-adjustable shock is its ability to give the user independent adjustment of both the compression and the rebound.

All shocks may look the same at first glance, but those two small dials on the bottom of these Viking shocks tell you these are double adjustable shocks.

The two dials on a double adjustable shocks control the compression (left) and the rebound (right) adjustments. Each offers 19 adjustments, producing more than enough variations to cover nearly any requirement.

INITIAL SHOCK SETUP: “CLICKS” CLOCKWISE FROM 0 Application

Front Comp

Front Rebound

Rear Comp

Rear Rebound

Street

1–4

4–8

0–3

2–5

Handling

8–10

10–14

6–8

8–12

Autocross

10–14

14–18

6–10

10–14

We’ll use the offerings of Viking shocks for our example because they only sell double adjustable shocks — for just this reason. How the shock will be used will also determine its initial setup.

The three basic setups include street, aggressive handling like for autocrossing, or even drag racing. For this story, we’ll focus mainly on obtaining a decent ride quality for the street.

While some rodders might expect their shocks to come “pre-set” specifically for their car, the reality is there are easily dozens of variables that affect both ride quality and handling for any car. Vehicle weight, unsprung weight (weight not supported by the springs), motion ratios, spring rates, ride height, bushing material, wheelbase, weight distribution, where the driver sits relative to the wheelbase, and dozens more all affect the perception of ride quality. With universal application shocks, it’s necessary to dial in your shocks before you even bolt them on the car.

For Viking shocks, you’ll notice at the bottom of each double adjustable shock are two small knobs. The compression adjuster (marked “C”) and a rebound adjuster (marked “R”). Viking shocks use a total of 19 adjustments, 0 plus 18 more for compression or rebound. This offers an extremely wide range of adjustment

for a variety of applications. For an initial street set up, Viking recommends specific settings for both the front and rear shocks. We’ve included a small chart to make this easier.

Note that the rebound settings are generally higher than the compression settings. This is what prevents the springs from oscillating. Also notice how the compression and rebound settings in the rear are softer than the front. This is typical for cars with more weight up front combined with a solid rear axle.

Once the shocks are dialed with their initial settings, a test ride will allow you to evaluate the ride quality. Experiment with the front compression rates first and then adjust the rebound settings separately. This way you will get a better feel for how even a minor one-click adjustment will have on the ride quality. Always make the same adjustments on both left and right side shocks. For a street rod, the Viking shocks allow you to set them for a comfortable yet stable ride, quickly change the settings to improve handling for a Saturday afternoon autocross, and then return the shocks to their original street setting for the drive home. That’s almost too easy.

Of course, once you get into performance tuning, we will do a follow up story on how to use the shocks to improve

One suspension detail worth emphasizing is to ensure adequate shock travel once the shocks are installed. Bottoming out the shocks (note the limited travel on this application) is a common issue that should be avoided to prevent damage to the shock.

handling and even how your double adjustable shocks can tell you which spring rate you need. That’s why you will always see the quick guys on the autocross with double adjustable shocks. SRL Source: Viking Performance, vi-king.com

STREETRODLIFE.COM

91

PRESENTED BY

By Rick Sosebee

Life and times of Gordon Pirkle A ’40 Ford, Mason jar, and a race historian

R

Gordon Pirkle stands in front of the first Legal Moonshine Still in Dawsonville, Georgia, right next door to the city hall. The fully operational still is the sole producer of the Bill Elliott Dawsonville Moonshine, which is distributed all over the United States.

Photos by Rick Sosebee / Courtesy of the Georgia Racing Hall Of Fame

92

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

emembering our past is something I work at every day. It seems that many books cover well known facts, but it is the actual lives lived in color by the people who shaped our great pastimes of hot rodding and racing that fascinates me most. Often times, these memories (or pieces of history) are left to die with those who experienced them as they never get their place in the history books.

If you look deep into racing’s roots you will find well-documented names like Raymond Parks, Loyd Seay, Tim Flock, or even Gober Sosebee. All have their claim to NASCAR and its rich history in the North Georgia Mountains. But it wasn’t until I had the chance to sit down with Dawsonville Georgia’s own Gordon Pirkle that I figured out where the true heart of this racing heritage was kept.

Born Gordon Major Pirkle on December 27, 1936, he was to become what the locals in his hometown know as the owner of the Dawsonville Pool Room, but also as the NASCAR historian. Gordon is a fourth-generation child to inhabit the homestead in the War Hill community of Dawsonville.

After graduating high school in 1955, Gordon worked at a local gas station. He knew the moonshine business was going strong — and a fascination with fast cars was a big part of it for him — but he also knew there was money to be made. As Gordon says, “Dawsonville, Georgia, was the moonshine capital of the world.”

Gordon tells of many trips up and down Highway 9 in Dawsonville where having a fast car was lucky, but being a better driver was usually the only saving grace as the state revenuer’s cars just kept getting better. It is no secret that in the 1940s, ’50s, and ’60s the

There are many cars in the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame, but this one owned by Gober Sosebee is the closest to the cars driven by those who carried the white lightning.

Dawsonville is home to many race car drivers, including five drivers with a total of 12 Daytona wins.

sale of illegal whiskey was rampant, but what some may not realize is how much the cars had to be modified for hauling massive loads of the clear liquid. Things like secondary springs under the rear of the car meant it could carry more white lightning and more powerful engines helped as well.

“The revenuers finally started to build their own fast cars to catch the moonshiners and that’s when things got tricky,” says Gordon.

It wasn’t long before the trippers began to use what they would call a “slip by” car to elude the prying eyes of the law. This type of automobile would be one to blend in, kind of a family car, and just “slip by” the local and state police.

Gordon Pirkle with his children, Haley and Gordon Pirkle Jr., in front of the famous Dawsonville Pool Room. Just above the roofline on the right side of this photo is the famous “Si-Reen” that sounds each time an Elliott wins a race.

As I sat and listened to Gordon tell of his life as a young man, I realized an entire vocabulary of original terms that I had never known.

It wasn’t long before we got into a conversation about his passion for NASCAR and how this sport evolved from running liquor to a competition.

“Back in the day, in order to get the product to market meant you had to haul your product down into Atlanta,” Gordon explains. “This is where fast cars and faster drivers were separating themselves from the pack. Somewhere in the mid ’30s some of the big moonshiners would meet down in the river bottoms STREETRODLIFE.COM

93

Chase Elliott, once an employee at the Dawsonville Pool Room, has now gone on to set records of his own by winning the Xfinity Series Championship in 2014 as well as Most Popular Driver.

Kyle Petty stopped by the Dawsonville Pool Room to get a Bully Burger and to meet Gordon in March of 1990. It is a destination for many drivers new and old.

on Sunday evenings here in Dawson County and see who had the best driver.

“It wasn’t long before a crowd gathered to these meetings, and a local man by the name of Frank Christen happened by. He saw dollar signs in the crowds of people gathered to watch these guys race around a homemade circle track.”

Frank Christen would then go on to rent the horse track at Lakewood fairgrounds in Atlanta. According to Pirkle this was the first organized stock car racing in this part of the country. Statistics on racing is something that Gordon has studied, and he knows the racers from his town like the back of his hand.

“Dawson County has had five different drivers win a total of 12 times at Daytona,” Gordon says.

One thing that really stands out about Gordon is the passion for his little town, with a population of just over 2,500.

He has been in business in Dawson County for over 50 years with the Dawsonville Pool Room. This small restaurant is known worldwide, and is a destination for travelers who come looking for racing memorabilia. Known for the Bully Burger, the pool room has been host to NASCAR legends, and is decorated with Gordon’s favorite drivers most memorable moments.

Even though the Pool Room is his primary business, his heart is deeply rooted in preserving the county’s historic racing background. In May 2002, he was able to see his dream come to life when the Georgia Racing Hall Of Fame

der the local city hall just inside the doors of the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame. Gordon says he keeps the quality control in check as its best volunteer taster.

It is abundantly clear that Gordon not only has a passion for the sport of stock car racing, but his memory of how it was back in the day is something that really needs to be shared more often.

He doesn’t seek fortune and fame, and gives of his time freely to help promote this town’s history. He even helps with the Dawsonville Moonshine festival that kicks off on the last weekend in October every year and is a must see event.

So if you happen to stop in the small town of Dawsonville, Georgia, be sure

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

World famous moonshiner Popcorn Sutton (left) visits with Gordon Pirkle and backwoods distiller Dwight Bearden.

(GRHOF) opened its doors in downtown Dawsonville.

Gordon is the chairman of the board and spends much of his time wandering the halls greeting guests from all over the world. This is a place where you can step back in time and see actual race cars from the early days of stock car racing, as well as here the stories as told by those who lived that life. As the years passed, the county government took over unused office portions of the building and now the combined sign out front reads GRHOF and Dawsonville City hall.

Just a few years ago the first “legal” moonshine still was built in Dawson County, and amazingly, functions right un-

In an attempt to re-enact the races held in the river bottoms back in the ’30s Gordon Pirkle waves the green flag on several original race cars in the grass field just behind the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame.

to check out the Poolroom or the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame and look Gordon up. I am sure he would love to sit with you ( just as he did me) and reminisce about days past. If you want to hear a good story, ask him about the time there was a call into the sheriff ’s

office to a store on one side of town, while bootleggers were turning circles and laying drag on the other side. Or maybe even his run of shine to legendary NASCAR racer Junior Johnson. It is another great look back into the colorful past of a man and his town. SRL

Raised in rural Northern Georgia Rick Sosebee is an avid hunter and is an off-road Powersports Adventure/Lifestyle writer for Outdoor Life magazine, as well as several other ATV industry magazines. Rick enjoys wrenching on ATV’s and Side-by-Sides, as well as his Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax Diesel.

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Up

Lokar helps connect our carb to the pedal

B

olting on a new carburetor or throttle body is easy, but when it comes to connecting the throttle linkage and the transmission connections, things can get difficult. Chances are that you’ll be spending a lot more time fiddling with the throttle linkage and fumbling around searching for the proper fittings, ball studs, or clips than bolting a fresh carb atop the intake.

Then again, nearly any project can be made easier when you have the right parts, and when it came time to install a new throttle linkage on one of our cars, we turned to Lokar Performance Products. Chances are you recognize the Lokar name for its out96

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

standing line of automatic shifters, but a lot more comes out of its Knoxville, Tennessee, facility than high-quality shifters. By a lot, we mean dash inserts, parking brakes, trick pedal assemblies, locking dipsticks, hood releases, and much more.

When it was time to make the move to a throttle body on our 1965 Pontiac, we searched over the Lokar website and found a number of different throttle bracket solutions. One that really caught our eye was the new Billet Throttle Plate and Kickdown kit. This assembly bolts beneath the carb (or throttle body in our example) and secures the throttle cable and the kick-

down linkage, while providing a safe and reliable return spring connection.

Our old Pontiac sports a manual trans, so we didn’t have the need for a kickdown cable, but after fighting other applications with flimsy, tough–to-secure transmission cable brackets, the Lokar assembly would be the way to go with it’s solid, CNC-machined mount.

Right out of the box, we knew we weren’t going to be disappointed as the billet components were complemented with hardware and the parts necessary for the installation. It’s important to note that the Billet Throttle Plate does require the use of Lokar’s throttle and transmission cable assemblies.

The threaded throttle bracket (top) secures a Lokar cable assembly while the lower machined stud retains the kickdown or Throttle Valve cable.

With the plate and carb/throttle body mounted, we installed the dual-throttle return springs to the throttle body linkage. Lokar machines a specific bracket that secures over the beveled hole in the linkage for bind-free movement that is locked in place with a button head cap screw and Nylock nut.

The finished throttle linkage with the ball-stud throttle cable connection and return springs installed. Note the lack of a kickdown or TV connection on this manual shifted application. Lokar also offers a variety of automatic transmission cables.

We assembled the throttle return spring stud to the front of the billet plate then moved to the rear of the plate to mount the threaded throttle cable stand assembly. This is one of the best features of this kit, as the throttle cable actually threads into the stand assembly and tightens in place, so there is no chance of the assembly moving or flexing.

With the plate assembled, we sandwiched it between the intake manifold and the throttle body (two gaskets are required) then checked the hood clearance, as the plate does add about 3/8 inch to the height of the carb. Once we were clear with the hood, we installed a new braided accelerator cable to the stock Pontiac pedal, shortened the cable to the proper length, and routed it to the top of the engine.

The Lokar cable assembly is supplied with a bolt-on ball stud that mounts to most carb and throttle body linkages. With the cable secured in the billet stand, we connected it to the link-

Lokar also has throttle bracket assemblies available for a number of tri-power setups including Strombergs, Rochesters, and other systems. For this Pontiac tri-power, the bracket mounts under the rear carb and secures the accelerator cable and return springs.

Running a Street Demon? Lokar has those carbs covered with a strong bracket assembly and accessory linkage to secure the kickdown cable as well.

age. Next we secured the dual-return spring bracket to the linkage and set the position of the adjustable return spring stanchion. Always have someone sit in the car and push the gas pedal through its full movement while watching the linkage for smooth, bind-

free movement — before starting the car.

With Lokar Billet Throttle Plate assembly in place, we like the positive feel of the pedal movement and really like the peace of mind of the secure return spring mount.  SRL Source: Lokar Performance Products, lokar.com

STREETRODLIFE.COM 

97

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FEATURES Plated cylindrical steel construction Centering die for consistent bearing placement Embedded magnet for one-handed assembly Compatible with common shop equipment Upgrade factory rockers in less than 30 minutes

The factory trunnion is driven out with the centering die.

The embedded magnet worked well to hold the trunnion tool in the jaws of the bench vice.

The bearing is loaded onto the centering die and pressed in until it’s flush with the rocker. The die is then removed through the center opening.

The supplied flat washer ensured that the bearing was installed flush. Here an arbor press was being used.

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

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BRANDON SAYS: The only way this would be any easier is to have somebody do it for you. The tool works great, and I tried it with all three methods, including the C-clamp, just to see if it really worked. It did, though I personally found the bench vise to be the most comfortable for me. After the first couple they really go quick, and the centering die makes sure everything goes where it’s supposed to. After comparing the feel of the upgrade kit with the stock cageless needle bearings, I don’t see why anyone wouldn’t upgrade. This tool will make the process so easy your kids could do it.

Brandon Flannery is a globe-trottin’ automotive photojournalist, content developer, and certified shop rat now living in Hernando, Mississippi, with a herd of projects and a daily-driven ’73 Satellite Sebring known as The Blue Goose.

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u l c a r r i c

FLOW Running a return fuel system with a carburetor will help in the long run

W

hen it comes to getting fuel from the tank up to the engine these days, you’ll hear a lot about running a return line. A return line is exactly what it sounds like, a line that returns fuel not used by the engine, back to the fuel tank.

Typically, this conversation revolves around the popularity of electronic fuel injection systems because most of the retrofit EFI kits out there from FAST, MSD, Edelbrock, or Holley recommend a return line (though some can be used with a single line). However, there are 100

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

also a number of advantages to running a return line — even while running a carburetor and an electric fuel pump.

For starters, using a return line with a carb keeps the fuel circulating rather than heating up while it slowly pumps around and over a hot engine. This effect commonly leads to vapor lock. Also, an electric fuel pump does a better job of maintaining a consistent volume of fuel in the entire system which is very important during quick throttle transitions.

Another advantage to running an electric fuel pump is simply the aesthet-

Words / Photos Todd Ryden

ic of cleaning up the front of the engine.

Remember, if you’re moving to an LS or other late model engine in your hot rod, they don’t even have a provision for a mechanical pump!

The best place to mount an electric fuel pump is in the tank. Keep in mind that putting fuel under a vacuum reduces its boiling point, and external fuel pumps drawing fuel from the top of the tank through a filter, rely upon negative pressure (vacuum) before they can push the fuel forward to the carb. Putting the pump in the tank

Aeromotive’s Phantom pump kit for carbureted applications is designed to provide an easy way to install the fuel pump and lines into your factory gas tank.. The universal design fits nearly any tank, is supplied with either a 200- or 340-lph pump, and everything for installation.

If you plan to run a later model engine with a carburetor — such as this Hemi in a ’69 Dart — you’ll need to run an electric fuel pump. Plumbing a return line would be a good idea with this system.

almost eliminates the chance of suction side cavitation by ensuring positive pressure at the pump inlet, (i.e. the pump is always below fuel level if installed properly). In-tank pumps are also quieter and stay cooler (isolated from the exhaust system and road heat) by being submerged in fuel — a win-win situation when it comes to an electric pump. But the question is how do you install a pump and the lines into your stock tank? That’s where Aeromotive comes in to help with two different solutions.

Any time you’re installing a pump in the tank, be sure to install a new sock on the pump. This helps keep fuel to the pump clean and acts as a filter.

STREETRODLIFE.COM

101

Stealth tanks are designed as direct bolt-in units equipped with internal baffling and a matching fuel level sending unit. All you need to do is connect the pump wires and -6 lines. This is a ’64–’68 Mustang tank.

Aeromotive has been developing, manufacturing, and supporting racing fuel pump components for years. On any given weekend, you’ll find them at the races and in the pits helping the fastest pro mod and outlaw cars around. By using the experience and technology earned at the races, they’ve brought several innovative solutions to the street.

One of their solutions for installing an electric pump in the tank, along with running a return line, is their series of Stealth Fuel Tanks. These are brand new, stamped steel gas tanks that will bolt right in place of the OEM tank yet they are equipped with a fuel pump module that secures an electric pump.

This module has three ports; a supply, return, and vent. These tanks are available for more than 35 popular applications such as Camaros, Chevelles, Mustang, tri-fives, and more.

It’s important to note the pumps supplied with the Stealth Tanks don’t have an internal bypass, which means a bypass style fuel pressure regulator such as their X1 series must be used. Most street carbs only need about 4–6.5-psi or even less on older, vintage carbs. Another point to consider is that you can never have too large of a return line, however, you can have too small. There are some vehicles out there that have a factory return line so small that it actually becomes a greater restriction at low fuel demand than the regulator, which can cause drivability issues.

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

The Phantom has terminals for the fuel pump and you can see the -6 ports for the return, vent and outlet (this one has an adapter for a -8 fitting on the outlet).

Aeromotive recommends matching the return line diameter with the return port of the regulator being used. As a test, for a carbureted application make sure you can adjust pressure approx-

imately 2 psi below your intended operating pressure. This ensures that the regulator is the restriction rather than the return line.

But what if you march to a differ-

A 10-micron filter after the pump is recommended. This filter mounts inline and has a replaceable filter element.

ent street rod drum and a new tank is not available for your car? Aeromotive now offers their popular EFI solution — the Phantom Kit — for carbureted applications.

The Phantom Kit is nearly universal in its fit and function and can be installed with basic hand tools in any garage. Best news is that once the tank is out of the car, the kit can be installed in less than an hour. The kit is designed around a billet machined housing that secures either a Stealth 200- or 340lph fuel pump. The system will support up to 1,000 horsepower in a natu-

rally-aspirated carbureted application.

The kit also is supplied with a baffle and bucket that ensure the pump stays submerged in fuel keeping the volume to the carb flowing, even during curves and braking. Other components include a carburetor bypass fuel pressure regulator, high flow billet filter, wiring kit, a fuel pressure gauge, and several port fittings to get you connected.

Carbureted or EFI, running an electric fuel pump with a return line has several advantages, and Aeromotive is making it easy to accomplish them all. SRL Source: Aeromotive Inc., aeromotiveinc.com

A bypass style regulator will be required when running a carburetor with an in-tank pump.

Aeromotive’s latest offering is the X1 Series Regulator. The beauty of these regulators is that you can easily convert them to run with fuel injection if you ever upgrade down the road.

Keep your cool with

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SCHEDULES EVENTS PLACES

HIT THE ROAD It’s the end of the rodding and racing season, which just means it’s time to start planning for next year! Here’s a few events that you’ll want to add to your calendar. If you have anything to add to our list, let us know at tryden@xcelerationmedia.com

ISCA 2016 Schedule Even when the weather outside is frightful, you can count on the International Show Car Association (ICSA) to put on a spectacular indoor show of the hottest rods and wheels around. The ISCA hosts nearly 30 indoor events across the country and here are five of our favorites.

Detroit: February 26–28 Chicago: March 4–6 Kansas City: February 12–14 Cincinnati: January 8–10 Boston: April 1–3

theisca.com

Goodguys Rod & Custom 2016 Schedule Fill your calendar with the upcoming Goodguys events for the year! Scottsdale, Arizona, plays host to their kickoff event, as well as their final show. Thousands of cool cars, a great swap meet, and autocross action. They’re all over the country so you have no excuse!

good-guys.com

March 4–6 WestWorld of Scottsdale Scottsdale, Arizona

Pomona Swap Meet Plan your own street rod adventure by flying into California to buy a new project to drive home! Your best chance is at the Pomona Swap Meet. You’ll be up before the sun and strolling through over 15 miles of cars, parts, and automobilia. Can’t make it in January? Check out the full schedule of events at their landing page.

pomonaswapmeet.com

January 17 Fairplex Pomona, California

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Daytona Speed Week

Auctions for a week

If NASCAR racing is your thing, black out the week of February 13–21 to take in all that is circle track racing in Daytona Beach, Florida. From exciting dirt track racing at nearby Volusia Speedway Park, to the NASCAR Duels and wrap up the week with the 58th running of the Daytona 500.

Think you can handle over a week of car auctions, big money, and high rollers?

Trek over to Scottsdale, Arizona, to take in the auction that is Barrett-Jackson.

Argue all you want about auctions and the industry, but this is a bucket list item for the sheer spectacle of it all.

February 13–21 Volusia Speedway Park Daytona Beach, Florida

January 23–31 WestWorld of Scottsdale Scottsdale, Arizona

daytonainternationalspeedway.com

barrett-jackson.com

Not able to attend a show? Want to see which cars were at what events? Not a problem. Head over to StreetRodLife.com and check out the Events tab for coverage, pics, and more.

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NOVEMBER 3–6, 2015 LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER LAS VEGAS, NV

CURRENT

AFFAIRS

Words / Photos Todd Ryden

Make sure your alternator can keep up with your electrical needs

E

lectronics play a major role in the operation of late-model vehicles.

In fact, they’re involved in pretty much every aspect of our experience behind the wheel except driving the car — and even that is changing. One of the joys of driving an old car is the sheer lack of modern electronics and the throwback to simpler times, but that is changing too.

Air conditioning, fuel injection, electric fans, GPS, and other modern amenities are becoming the norm in our hot rods. All of these systems are designed to enhance performance or are simply creature comforts, but one area that must be addressed — and up to the task of handling these components — is the charging system.

The bulk of keeping all of these electron-gulping accessories running falls solely on the alternator. Remember, the battery is simply there as a reserve, primarily to provide the ability to start the engine. Once it is running, the charging system keeps the accessories going as 106

STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

well as maintaining the battery. As we add electric fans, pumps, and more, the alternator is taxed with keeping everything functioning as expected.

Within the last year, we had added fuel injection (with an electric fuel pump) as well as a pair of cooling fans to an old project. All of a sudden, we had more than doubled the current requirements of the car and knew it was time to step it up in regards to the alternator. A call was made to Powermaster Performance.

Powermaster lives and breathes alternators, not to mention starters. The West Chicago, Illinois-based plant designs and builds alternators for just about anything and understands the needs of street rodders. Powermaster explained that the most important step in choosing an alternator is to review the current demands from the electronic components on your car.

Most current specifications can be found with the manufacturers, but to give you an idea, typical headlights and tail

CIRCUIT

AMP DRAW

Headlights/taillights........................15 Electric fan 1..................................30 Electric fan 2..................................30 Fuel pump........................................ 8 Air conditioning...............................20 Radio/amp....................................... 6 Power windows................................15 TOTAL........................................ 124

lamps use 5–6 amps (up to 10-amps for a Halogen and HIDs), a single electric fan can pull 30–40 amps (twice that with a twin system), air conditioning up to 20 amps, fuel pump, air compressors for suspensions, power windows, etc. When you start to look at each circuit, you’ll see that the numbers add up quickly and the need for a high-output alternator comes into view.

Another aspect to review for your application is the pulley diameter and ratioto-the-crank pulley.

Look stock charge hot

Powermaster recommends installing a ground wire (the same gauge as the charge wire) from the alternator housing directly to the engine block or battery ground. The use of powdercoated and anodized aluminum brackets sometimes do not provide an adequate ground.

alternator is spinning at 2,400 rpm.

Another consideration is the decision to go with a one-wire alternator versus an OEM-style connection (often regarded as 3-wire connection). The jury on this one is strongly divided, but the major difference is how the alternator starts to charge.

With an OEM-style connection, the alternator is turned on, or excited, by receiving a 12-volt signal from the ignition switch. As soon as the engine starts, the alternator is charging.

One-wire alternators, known as self-exciting, have an internal sensing circuit that turns on the charging circuit once it reaches a certain rpm. This means that when you start the engine the alternator may not begin charging until the engine speed reaches 800–1,000 rpm or so (this is an example as it really depends on pulley ratio and the design of the rotor and regulator). However, once the unit is excited, it will remain charging even at lower rpm.

No matter which alternator you select, one of the most important installation tips to consider is the gauge and

The output of an alternator is dependent on the speed at which it is driven, just like tire diameter and rearend gearing. This is important to match to the average rpm the engine experiences, because an alternator’s output is not linear. Its speed makes a big difference in its output and with today’s modern overdrive transmissions, it is common to have too low of an alternator speed.

To determine the alternator-to-engine pulley ratio, divide the diameter of the crankshaft pulley by the diameter of the alternator’s pulley. Once you know the ratio, you can determine the rpm that the alternator is spinning by multiplying the ratio by the engine rpm. For example, if you determine the ratio to be 2.1:1, at 2,800 rpm the alternator will be spinning at 5,880 rpm. This sounds like a lot, but most performance alternators are capable of handling upwards of 20,000 rpm for short durations, so overdriving the pulley should not present any troubles.

As a rule of thumb for a street car, the average ratio should be around 3:1, meaning that when the engine is at 800 rpm, the

CHARGE WIRE RECOMMENDATION CHART AMPS

Recommended charging cable gauge size/length Up to 4'

4'–7'

7'–10'

10'–13' 13'–16' 16'–19' 19'–22' 22'-28'

105–125

6

6

4

4

2

2

2

0

125–150

6

6

4

2

2

2

2

0

150–175

4

4

4

2

2

0

0

0

175–200

4

4

2

2

0

0

0

0

Generators look right at home on vintage hot rod engines, but their performance is far from today’s charging requirements. Fortunately, Powermaster devised a sneaky way to look period correct with the modern-day charging capabilities.

The PowerGen is a stock-looking generator housing that is packed with up to 90 amps of alternator-charging technology. The benefit of an alternator is consistent and higher charging rates, especially at idle and lower rpm.

Powermaster starts with a new billet housing and fills it with alternator technology. The units are treated to a durable black powdercoat, polished, or chrome finish and feature one-wire connections. A variety of housing designs are offered for Flatheads (even for positive-ground, 6-volt systems with 60 amps of charging), Ford swing mounts, a ’55–’57 Thunderbird-specific design, GM applications, and a universal mount. Each unit is supplied with a V-belt pulley and a dyno proof sheet.

length of the charge wire. High-output alternators obviously require a path to the battery positive terminal and the charge wire must be large enough to make sure the electrons get there effectively.

Remember that any stock wiring was designed to handle 40–50 amps on a good day, and if you start pulsing high current through old, original wiring, the results are not going to be favorable.

The alternator and charging system are going to determine how well anything electrical operates on your car. Proper current and output levels will also ensure the longevity of these accessories so make sure you have an alternator that can keep up with your rod. SRL Source: Powermaster Performance, powermasterperformance.com

STREETRODLIFE.COM

107

Jim McDonald Jim McDonald is a fighter, a pull yourself up by your bootstraps kind of guy. He’s a guy who dug deep for every penny he’s earned to provide for his family. If he was knocked down, whether in business or beating Lymphoma 20+ years ago, he got right back up and came back stronger — all the while with a smile on his face. He is just happy to be here.

Jim’s love of the automobile started back in San Antonio. He got into the 60’s street racing scene with his ’56 Chevy in high school, which lead to organized drag racing and a job with the track. That job lead into a career working as general manager of several tracks including Houston, Detroit, Long Island Dragstrip (where he says they had so many cars they ran four lanes), and Lakeland Dragstrip just outside of Memphis, Tennessee, where he now resides.

Though he no longer works directly in the racing industry, it did lead him down his path to success. WHBQ radio in Memphis was the largest advertiser at Lakeland, and the station manager offered him a new position selling radio spots (you could make good money back then). On the side, Jim would announce at tracks around the South, especially Carlisle, Arkansas, where he got to be good friends with a high up at Polaroid. He was doing so well with the radio sales, he was hired at Polaroid selling co-op advertising for Walmart/Sam’s Club.

Jim learned everything there was to learn, eventually striking out on his own and opening McDonald Outdoor Advertising. Billboards from his company can be seen all over the Tennessee-Mississippi-Arkansas area and he has branched out into a full service printing company. During these years, Jim concentrated on growing his business and family with his wife Judy. With three boys (Scott, Darrin, and Spencer) and three girls (Melissa, Christy, and Megan), hot rods took a back seat, but he longed for that ’56 he had in high school.

After his sons took on a more active role in the company, he started looking for the car he coveted. It was Scott who actually found a suitable candidate to replace that first love. It took a while to get it into the shape it is in now, but after seven years Jim wouldn’t trade it for anything.

Now semi-retired, Jim has more time for family, hot rods, cruiseins, and car shows. A lot of times it is a combination of all four, as it is very seldom that Jim doesn’t have at least one member of the clan riding shotgun. But with six children and seven grandchildren, chances are you’ll see a gaggle of people around his ’56. He added a ’54 Ford Crown Victoria to the stable just to keep up. (Ok, the Crown Vic is technically his wife’s, but she allows him free reign).

Photo courtesy of David Bunk

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Parents and grandparents aren’t supposed to play favorites, but Jim does seem partial to having one particular co-pilot with him, his grandson, Aubie. Although he is only 2 years old, Aubie knows the calendar and makes sure that grandad attends all of the Tuesday and Thursday night cruise-ins. Aubie even pitches in with cleaning and has his own set of tools to work on the ’56.

Jim is passionate about passing the love of cars down to future generations and is an active member of the Memphis Classic Chevy Club. He donates his expertise to the hot rodding cause and wrapped the club trailer to help get the word out. He even donated a billboard to advertise an area cruise-in.

Earlier this year, Jim was diagnosed with a lung infection that has him fighting his health once again, but you wouldn’t know it from his attitude and the support of his family and friends. In true hot rodder style, Jim is tackling it head on and doing everything he can to keep the engine running. We couldn’t think of a better example for a Street Rod Lifer. SRL

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GEARHEAD

WINNER

EDITOR’S CHOICE

Speaking of the Springfield Nats, it seems that we were in a pickup kind of mindset as we awarded Dennis and Patty Dukes with our Editor’s Choice during the show. Their wicked little ’37 Ford pickup is packed with custom engineering including the frame, headers, interior, and even the trick custom 3.2-intake bolted to the Chevy inline 6. Different and nicely executed!

The Street Machine Nationals took over the Ozark Empire Fairgrounds in Springfield, Missouri, in late September with plenty of fat-tired, exhaust-thumping rods and muscle cars filling the grounds. Paul Clines was just one of the many joining the performance fray in his 1967 C10 shortbed.

Paul was ahead of the curve when he pulled into the show as he had already won the honors of our Gearhead Powerpack by entering his clean pickup in the online contest. Not only did he score free entry and preferred parking, but he also received over $700 in certificates from leading performance companies like COMP Cams, Driven Racing Oil, FAST, TCI, RHS, and Zex nitrous oxide systems.

Paul built his truck about 12 years ago with his son and has been refining and enjoying it ever since. The subtle styling of the truck is highlighted with a lower stance, period-correct seafoam color, and paint-matched deep rally wheels with cop center caps.

Under the hood is where things get real interesting, as Paul chose a big block for motivation and keeps the engine detailed to the max. In fact, he even won Best Truck Engine at the Du Quoin Street Machine Nationals earlier in the summer!

Congratulations Paul! Enjoy the performance goodies and we’ll see you next year!

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

“Garage Easy” EFI

NEW

Two EFI Systems From FAST™ Make Converting Easier Than Ever.

With two proven EZ-EFI® systems now available from FAST™, the conversion to self tuning electronic fuel injection has never been more attainable. Both systems are available for carb conversion and multi-port applications, as well as in multiple fuel system configurations to fit practically any engine/vehicle setup.

• 4 Injectors; Handles Up To 650 HP • Value Priced & Easy To Install • Multiple Kits Including Dual Quad

LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY

FAST™ offers a limited lifetime warranty on all EZ-EFI® systems, along with the industry’s best technical support team should you need product advice.

The #1 Choice In Self Tuning EFI PROVEN SELF TUNING TECHNOLOGY

Easy setup, compact hardware and refined tuning logic provide an incredible driving experience and combination flexibility.

• 8 Injectors; Handles Up To 1200 HP • Built-In Electronic Timing Control • Nitrous, E85 & CAN Compatibility

DETAILS MAKE THE DIFFERENCE

Unlike other EFI systems, FAST™ includes every bolt and fitting needed for a hassle-free install that can be performed by the average enthusiast.

Scan this QR code to watch our video tutorial on selecting the right self tuning EFI system, or learn even more at our new website: www.ezefi.com.

1.877.334.8355 • WWW.FUELAIRSPARK.COM •

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Behind THE DOOR ’64 LeMans and ’66 GTO

This burgundy ’63 Bonneville has a high-output 389c.i. special-order engine backed with a 4-speed manual trans between the bucket seats.

A ’64 Catalina is what started Bob’s affinity for Pontiacs and this drop-top ’64 is similar to the one he bought new over 50 years ago. White with a burgundy interior and top and a 389c.i. Pontiac for power.

Bob Dockendorf of El Paso, Texas, spent many of his younger years hanging around his big brother’s gas station, Doc’s Cities Service in Wauwatosa, Wisconsin. The site and sounds of the older teens working on their cars cast quite an impression on Bob which has lasted a lifetime!

Bob always liked the full size GM cars and when he had the chance, his first new car was a ’64 Pontiac Catalina convertible. The car was fun and treated well, but after a few harsh winters with no garage and the growing responsibilities of adult life, it was sold for something more practical – though Bob always planned to have another one. Luckily, years later he was able to find another one then bookended it with a few more Pontiacs.

’64 hardtop Catalina with a 4-barrel fed 389c.i. and factory AC.

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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 1, No. 4

Winter Storage Kills Hot Rods.

Don’t let yours be next with the help of Driven Hot Rod Oil and Carb Defender™ Fuel Additive – proven protection against winter and storage-induced damage.

Summer was fun, and the memories were priceless. As the weather changes and it’s time to retire the hot rod to the garage for the winter, make sure it’s protected from corrosive wear and rust, and ready to fire up when the warm days return.

TWO STEPS FOR COMPLETE PROTECTION STEP 1 Driven HR Hot Rod Oils

In addition to high levels of ZDDP to protect your engine, Driven Hot Rod Oil uses military-spec rust and corrosion inhibitors and meet the latest SAE J300 Cold Cranking requirements. Independent testing showed surfaces treated with Driven Hot Rod Oil showed no rust or corrosion after a 1,000-hour severe-storage simulation test.

STEP 2 Driven Carb Defender™ Fuel Additive

Driven Carb Defender Fuel Additive works tirelessly to preserve fuel and prevent Ethanol corrosion and induction deposits. Ethanol absorbs moisture and corrodes aluminum and Zinc by nature. Special corrosion inhibitors work to control combustion-chamber residue and clean and protect surfaces of the fuel system and intake tract. ™

Tips For Winterizing Check out our Training Center at drivenracingoil.com for more winterizing tips.

1.866.611.1820 • DRIVENRACINGOIL.COM Join Us:

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Trust Driven to help you keep your hot rod protected through the winter and ready for miles of smiles when spring arrives.