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HOW TO: COLUMN INSTALL
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Todd Ryden
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Hot rods, race cars, EPA, and rpm
I
f you cruise many websites, have a Facebook account, or receive e-newsletters from auto news sources, you’ve likely been hearing a lot of fuss about the EPA, SEMA, proposed bans on race cars, overreaching legislation, and the like. A couple months ago, it was a lively discussion on forums and in garages, and it continues to rage on, though at a somewhat lower frequency. At least it took our eyes away from the embarrassment that is going on with our presidential race. It all started when SEMA’s Washington team unearthed a statement seemingly buried in a proposed regulation titled, “Greenhouse Gas Emissions and Fuel Efficiency Standards for Medium- and Heavy-Duty Engines and Vehicles - Phase 2.” It was submitted in July of last year. What does that have to do with race cars you ask? Well that seemed to add to the upsetting circumstances when a phrase in the document read: “…the Clean Air Act does not allow any person to disable, remove, or render inoperative emission controls on a certified motor vehicle for purpose of competition.” Boy did the valve contact that piston once that was sent out. Aftermarket companies were lighting up Facebook, and e-blasts were launched. This would put thousands of hobbyist racers into a guilty state, as well as the manufacturers for selling the parts they bolt in place. Has this always been the case, just not enforced, or is this new rhetoric? I’m not here to opine on whether the EPA was overreaching or trying to bury a regulation into a non-related 600-plus-page proposal. I’d prefer to think that just wouldn’t happen (you can decide that for yourself). Right before press time, the EPA announced that it was withdrawing the race car portion of the proposal. I am amazed, however, that the SEMA Washington team, through the SEMA Action Network (SAN), discovered the EPA’s statement and brought it to light. How someone can review a dense, complicated (and boring) novel-sized document like that and notice a single statement is incredible. I glazed over midway through the first page. Were it not for SEMA, who knows where this would lead to in the future. The Washington branch is one of the most important parts of the Specialty Equipment Market Association. This entire debacle has raised the issue of the definitions outlined for motor vehicles in the original Clean Air Act. Has it actually been illegal all along to turn an emission-controlled vehicle into a race car by tampering with the OEM emission components, and just never enforced? Depends on who you ask, but it doesn’t seem that was the original intention of the CAA. There is a lot of gray area cast about. To help clear the air, SEMA has introduced the Recognizing the Protection of Motorsports (RPM) Act of 2016, which will confirm it has always been Congress’ intent race cars are not included in the Clean Air Act’s definition of “motor vehicle.” The RPM Act will make it clear it has always been acceptable and legal to convert a street-driven vehicle into a race car that is used exclusively at the track, and that modifying these vehicles would not be considered tampering. In our current world of greenhouse gasses, economy standards, global warming, and other anti-fossil fuel burning hot topics, it is high time we do define the term “motor vehicle” and what is considered tampering. The RPM Act is the start of that process, and as performance and racing enthusiasts, it is up to you to do your part. Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for cleaning up our air, recycling, and keeping our Earth spinning clean, but I don’t want to see our hobby and motorsports become over-regulated or outlawed due to some finicky language that wasn’t defined properly from the onset. Remember, street rodding was born out of young men tampering with their jalopies to make them faster (or cooler) than the next guy. Modifying street cars lead to our industry. NASCAR, NHRA, SCCA, and nearly any other motorsports evolved from taking stock, OEM vehicles and turning them into race cars. Where would we be if that was illegal in the 1930s? Do your part and learn more about the RPM Act at: sema.org/rpm-bill-summary.
Editorial Director
Todd Ryden
Senior Tech Editor
Jeff Smith
Tech Editor
Richard Holdener
Contributors Tommy Lee Byrd Tony Candella Roger Johnson Brandon Flannery Dan Hodgdon Louis Kimery Manufacturers Advertising/Subscriptions Ivan Korda Dave Ferrato Jonathan Ertz For advertising inquiries call 901.260.5910.
Copy Editor
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Production
Hailey Douglas
Art
Jason Wommack
Street Rod Life is published quarterly to promote the growth of street rodding as well as recognize the parts and services from participating manufacturers. The magazine consists of dedicated information from partner companies with the mission of disseminating unfiltered editorial on companies, products and services directly to street rodders and fans. Editorial content and advertisements for each issue can originate from partner companies participating in the magazine. Street Rod Life is a hybrid of content that was originally published at StreetRodLife.com and original content that was created for this quarterly print magazine. Magazine distribution occurs through direct distribution from parent company Xceleration Media, its partner companies, and marquee events throughout the year. Street Rod Life is a property of Xceleration Media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written consent from Xceleration Media. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.
Cover ON THE RESTO GURU GOES
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Louis Kimery snapped Joe P E FECTED Cappadona’s PICR KUP ’34 Ford pickup. WEB
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VOL. 2, NO.
Todd Ryden tryden@xcelerationmedia.com
Staff Group Publisher Shawn Brereton
BODIE STROUD MECHANICAL ARTIS AN
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E.COM
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ndd 1
#StreetRodLife
HOW TO: COLUMN INSTALL
BE A PRO TUNING SHIFT PLUMBING POINTS BRAKES PUNCH & FLARE
GET ROL LIN WITH NEW PARTS’ FAMILY PASSION FLAWLESS MERC
SHOPPING RODS CHARLOTTE AUTOFAIR 5/4/16 4:07 PM
INSIDE... STREETRODLIFE.COM Vol. 2, No. 2
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COVER STORY
ROLLING IN STYLE
This custom Merc is a diamond
FEATURES
DEPARTMENTS
16 ’34 FORD PICKUP 26 FIRST TIME CUSTOM... 34 BUILDING CARS ON TV 38 SPEEDWAY SWAPMEET 42 A BOSS OF A ROADSTER 60 BIG-BLOCK BUBBLE TOP 70 CRUISING CHATTANOOGA 78 ’57 CORVETTE STREET GASSER 88 HEIDTS HAS IT HAPPENING
01 FIRE IT UP
THE 12 INPASSENGER SEAT
04 RPM REPORT 06 DIGITAL DETOUR 07 SOCIAL BUZZ 08 ROD SHOT 10 VIDEO PLAYLIST
OF 91 LIFER THE MONTH
A classic hauler built to cruise …and definitely the last
Take a cruise with Bodie Stroud The gigantic Charlotte AutoFair
A ’32 with 547c.i. of Kaase power This ’62 bubble top is right on
Coker and Honest Charley open up From restoration to flat out fun We check out the Heidts HQ
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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
Hot rods, race cars, and the EPA What’s up in the rodding world Sites to surf, forums to stalk Socialize with SRL
Swap, sell, and score
Fun videos to check out
Colby Martin of SEMA’s SAN
Hot rodding turned into a career
94 HIT THE ROAD
Where you need to be and when to be there
95 CLUB SPOTLIGHT Meet the Somernites Cruise Volunteers
96 BEHIND THE DOOR Rick loves Corvettes and other Chevys
Even more features, videos, & event coverage
@StreetRodLife.com
78 VICIOUS RESTORATION
32 YOU’LL FIND IT HERE
48 WE DID IT
34 AS SEEN ON TV
TECH
Parts Store
A fun straight-axle Vette
Our easy column upgrade
14 PUNCHING AND FLARING 22 MAKE POWER WITH ROCKERS 32 FITTINGS AND ADATPERS 48 WE DID IT – COLUMN INSTALL 52 GEAR DRIVE LS INSTALL 66 FINE TUNING SHIFT RPM 74 YOU ARE GROUNDED 84 BARN FIND START UP Punch like a pro thanks to Mittler Bros. Understanding rocker arm ratios MPB has everything you need
We upgraded with ididit’s expertise Heavy duty gear drive from COMP
Adjusting the governor for shift control Ground good or go home
Fittings and adapters
Bodie Stroud talks cars
Full Size Ford and Mercury Brakes Master Power Brakes......... 54 Direct Fit Billet Dash Panels AutoMeter.................................. 54 Thumpr Cams for Old-School Street Rod Engines COMP Cams.............................................................................. 55 Sprint Concave Wheel Billet Specialties................................... 55 HR Oils Driven Racing Oil.......................................................... 55 Z363 Crate Engine Ford Racing............................................... 56 ’56 Chevy Door Real Deal Steel................................................ 56 Voodoo Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms Lunati.......................... 56 Multilink IRS Art Morrison........................................................ 57 Stainless Steel Running Board Kit McMillan Rod & Custom.... 58 Muscle Car Replica Cams Crane Cams................................... 58 GM LS OEM Rocker Arm Trunnion Upgrade Tool Powerhouse Products................................................................. 58 Custom Urns Vern Tardel.......................................................... 58 Pontiac A-Body Column ididit................................................... 59
See more new products updated daily at StreetRodLife.com.
How to resurrect a barn find
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3
NEWS HOT TOPICS INFO
RPM REPORT
SPONSORED BY
EPA overreach and the RPM Act By now, you’ve probably heard about the EPA burying language in proposed regulations that would have banned turning street vehicles into purpose-built competition vehicles. The inclusion was stuffed into a non-related document, and the EPA has since removed the cloudy language and stated “the proposed language was not intended to impact purpose-built race cars.” As a result of the original proposal, the Recognizing the Protection of Motorsports (RPM) Act of 2016 was introduced in Congress. This bipartisan bill is still on the table and would confirm it has always been Congress’ intent that race cars are not included in the Clean Air Act’s definition of “motor vehicle.” The RPM Act makes clear
it has always been legal to modify a street vehicle into a race car used exclusively at the track, and confirms
In other legislation news Alabama legislation (H.B. 280) to exempt motor vehicles more than 35 years old from the requirement they have a certificate of title was approved by the Senate Judiciary Committee and moves to the full Senate. Currently, only vehicles of model year 1974 and older are exempted. In California, legislation (S.B. 1239) to exempt all motor vehicles prior to the 1981 model year from an emissions inspection requirement was approved by the Transportation and Housing Committee. Current law requires the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles. The bill will next be considered by the Appropriations Committee in May. New Hampshire legislation (H.B. 351) to exempt rare or historically significant vehicles from emissions control requirements was approved by the legislature, and the bill now moves to the governor for signature. Under current law, only vehicles 20 or more years old are exempt.
SERIOUS RODDERS KNOW TO FIND NEWS, TECH, AND FEATURES OVER @ StreetRodLife.com
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that modifying these vehicles for exclusive track use would not be considered tampering.
For more information and to show your lawmakers that they need to be involved go to sema.org/rpm.
10-12 year-olds to judge the Milwaukee Concours d’Elegance The Hagerty Youth Judging program will be featured at the Milwaukee Concours d’Elegance show this year in August. Kids will join judging teams at the event for an opportunity to get up close to the world-class concours cars, meet the owners, and learn the basics of judging. The Young Judges will also learn historical features of the vehicles and get to participate in the awards presentation ceremony.
CCAD goes international! July 9 is officially Collector Car Appreciation Day, not only in the USA but also for our friends to the north. Thanks to the efforts of the Specialty Vehicle Association of British Columbia (SVABC), the province of British Columbia has again issued a proclamation designating July 9, 2016, as “Collector Car Appreciation Day” in the province. They even stepped up to the plate by deeming July as Collector Car Appreciation Month! Across the country, Nova Scotia Premier Stephen McNeil also issued a proclamation designating July 2016 as “Automotive Heritage Month” in the Canadian province.
NEWS HOT TOPICS INFO
RPM REPORT
Pinewood racing in Louisville The SEMA Hot Rod Industry Alliance (HRIA) will be pitting some of the best builders and manufacturers against each other at their Builders Pinewood Challenge during the NSRA Nationals. The builders’ mini-projects will face off inside the Kentucky Expo Center (close to the entrance of the food court) at 10 a.m. Saturday, August 6. Testing
and tuning is available Friday, as well. Since hot rod builders, and manufacturers are involved, these are not your typical pinewood racecars. The rules are fairly broad, stating the car must include at least a single part of the original kit, so the build teams have quite a blank canvas. Previous years have shown complete billet racers, hand crafted ‘monster’ cars,
and sleek aero designs. The best thing about the Challenge is each car is auctioned off during the HRIA Industry Awards Reception at the annual SEMA Show in Las Vegas, with all proceeds going to the SEMA Cares charities benefiting Child Help and Victory Junction facilities. Last year’s auction raised $6,000!
Revolution Award from FAST For the last several NSRA seasons, COMP Cams has awarded a unique vehicle at each event with their Thumpr award. This year, the sought after award has transitioned to their FAST product division and will be called the Revolution Award. FAST is best known for its advanced line of fuel injection systems, intake manifolds, and now for performance ignition components. The FAST
Revolution Award winner will be hand-selected at all 10 NSRA events in 2016. Judges will be looking for a standout hot rod utilizing new-age technology while maintaining a street rod or muscle car theme. The car or truck doesn’t require the nicest engine, paint scheme, or even FAST parts, but it must utilize EFI and represent ingenuity. STREETRODLIFE.COM
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SITES APPS FORUMS TRENDS
DIGITAL DETOUR The World Wide Web is all about information. But finding good quality information is the challenge. Our crew spends a lot of time (probably too much time) online, but occasionally we find a gold nugget of a website or forum that is useful and fun. Here are a few we wanted to share.
Websites High-End Luxury
One museum on our summer list is the Auburn Cord Dusenberg Automobile Museum in Auburn, Indiana. The museum has more than 120 cars and artifacts on display and tells the story of the companies in its name, as well as the automobile in American history.
Speedway Tech
While reviewing front suspension and axle options with a friend for his next build, we found ourselves bouncing through the tech pages of Speedway Motors’ giant website. There’s a surprising number of tech articles to help you make the right choices.
automobilemuseum.org
Swede Rodding
Check out the history and state of rodding in Sweden on this detailed site chock full of customs, events, and stories behind many of the country’s rods. It is truly an encyclopedia of traditional rodding in Sweden.
speedwaymotors.com
Cruise into History
Want to find cool motels, diners, and roadside attractions to explore on your next roadtrip? Dial up Retro Roadmap before heading out, and get the scoop from Mod Betty on vintage, historic, and fun places and events.
kustomrama.com
retroroadmap.com
Forums Ogle the Olds
Right Drive Rods
From discussions about the 442 paint codes and options to 88s and 98s, this forum is everything for Oldsmobile owners. New projects, vintage restorations, cars for sale and parts. It’s all Oldsmobile, 24-7!
classicoldsmobile.com
Take a look at rodding in the UK on the National Street Rod Association UK forum. It’s a kick to see what rodders are doing on the other side of the pond. View parts and cars for sale, and just get a taste of what’s going on outside our borders.
Street rodding news at your fingertips Street Rod Life has made it as easy as possible for you to receive the information you are looking for in the format you feel most comfortable with. Whether you get your information on a laptop, tablet, or your phone,
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The Boss Forum
While ogling the details and photos of the Boss 429 in the ’32 roadster featured in this issue (see page 42), we had to check out more about the Boss heritage. This forum has it all, from 302 Cougar Eliminators to the 351, 429, and even the late model versions.
nsra.org.uk
we’ve got you covered so you can get the latest street rod information straight from the source. Our content is updated daily, so check often with Street Rod Life through any of the social media options on the right.
boss302.com
facebook.com/StreetRodLife TWITTER
@StreetRodLife YOUTUBE
youtube.com/StreetRodLife INSTAGRAM
instagram.com/StreetRodLife
Bowtie Brigade
As you may have construed, this forum is loaded with Chevy, Chevrolet, and more Chev information, with discussions ranging from new models to classic parts. Plenty of info about pretty much anything with a bowtie.
chevroletforum.com
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Be Social! Find us on Instagram, and hashtag #StreetRodLife on all your favorite car show photos, racing shots, and just plain ol’ cool stuff that we all dig… or even give us a shoutout @StreetRodLife to share something and we might even repost it. SPOTTED ON TWITTER...
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Infield of dreams
The Charlotte Motor Speedway converts from race track to swap meet and car show every spring and fall for the Charlotte AutoFair. The entire infield is packed with parts and vendors while cars are placed around the speedway itself. Even the parking areas around the track get packed with cars. All told, there's 10,000 spaces filled at the fall event which is hosted by the Hornets Nest Region of the Antique Auto Club of America.
Photo by Todd Ryden
STREETRODLIFE.COM
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RACING PRODUCTS ENTERTAINMENT
VIDEO PLAYLIST
To watch all the videos below, head to:
StreetRodLife.com/video-playlist 41 Willys NDRL Hot Rod Reunion
Watch this ’41 Willys fly down the drag strip at the 2015 Holley National Hot Rod Reunion where it ran a 7.619 @ 176.72 MPH.
Driving Live Wire around!
Go for a ride in the 1931 Ford Model A Coupe know as Live Wire.
Hot Rod old school
Take a look at these beautiful hot rods from The Farm Boys car club based out of Boise, Idaho.
Passing Lane Motors cruise
This video takes places at last summer’s Passing Lane Motors Annual Car Cruise. Watch tons of awesome hot rods, street rods, muscle cars, classics, and even some modern muscle as they cruise around the show.
Vintage footage and rides
Chattanooga Street Rod Association and other groups on a Lookout Mountain Cruise circa 1972. Footage leaving the hotel, cruising through Chattanooga, up Lookout Mountain and visiting some of the tourist spots on the mountain.
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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
Caterpillar hot rod at Cruisin' The Coast
You’ll definitely want to check out this plus-sized Caterpillar powered street rod! Powered by a Caterpillar C-12 engine and backed by a 10-speed Eaton transmission, this goliath drivetrain sits in a custom frame comprised of scavenged big rig frames.
with COLBY
MARTIN
When passions converge Editor’s Note: Colby Martin is the Director of the SEMA Action Network (SAN). The SAN was designed to help alert our industry about legislative and regulatory issues that would impact our hobby. If action is required, SEMA gets involved and provides everyone with timely information and directions on how to contact legislators and regulators to express support or opposition to a particular bill or proposal directly affecting the automotive hobby. As you’ll see, Colby is a hands-on car guy and passionate about protecting our hobby.
L
ike most car enthusiasts, I don’t recall a time when I wasn’t into cars. Mastering the form of a chopped hot rod coupe through drawing became an obsession early on. Owning one seemed nearly impossible. At an early age, I wondered if I could earn a living using these interests as assets. The results have proven unique. School brought many interesting subjects, none of which could match my art classes, where hot rods happened to be my favorite subjects. Local car shows gave me a chance to showcase my illustrations publicly and design commercially. In college, I began freelancing for the automotive specialty equipment industry. While employed by the renowned SO-CAL Speed Shop in 2002, I purchased a chopped ’31 Ford Model A. The project began with a vintage dropped I-beam front axle I had acquired while in high school. My father, Al Martin, bought a MIG welder and other metalworking tools as the project developed. The ’58 348c.i. Chevy engine, Muncie M-21 4-speed, and ’39 Ford coupe dashboard were donated by friends. From there, we spent our spare time collecting parts and hand-crafting the coupe in my dad’s garage over the next 13 years. The finished product made its debut at SAN’ s exhibit space during the 2015 SEMA Show and SEMA Ignited event. The coupe stood as a visual symbol of the types of vehicles and equipment many jurisdictions seek to restrict and regulate. Attendees’ outpouring of excitement and accolades for the car was absolutely gratifying and humbling for my family and me. It’s appropriate the ’31 should have its first public exposure through SAN. I began supporting the advocacy group early in my 11-year career at SEMA. In 12
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fact, a pencil drawing of mine appeared on the first SAN T-shirt! When given the opportunity to lead SAN in late 2011, my decision to accept was natural. Our work to influence automotive legislation and regulations nationwide serves to allow owners of vehicles like mine the full enjoyment of our nation’s roadways. With my lifelong passion for this hobby, it was truly an offer I could not refuse. If it’s not apparent already, I’m not only the leader of the SAN, I’m one of its biggest beneficiaries. Working with the SAN on a daily basis has redefined my understanding of our shared hobby. A slew of legislative victories were achieved across the nation in 2015, several of which were the result of hard-fought battles. In Nevada for example, legislation was passed that would have negatively altered the requirements for vehicles eligible for registration as classic vehicles, old timers, street rods, and classic rods. The bill was ultimately vetoed by the governor as a result of our persistent opposition, and with the assistance of our allies in the legislature. After speaking with SAN members in Las Vegas during SEMA Ignited, I was reminded just how personal these legislative proposals can be to local communities. After spending so much time, effort, and money on my own hot rod, it
Photo courtsey of Kevin Lee, Mad Art Media
Colby’s passion for rodding gives him an insider’s view on the pending legislation and regulatory issues that can affect our hobby. He and his Dad gathered parts for over a decade as they pieced his ’31 Ford together.
is easy to sympathize with the threat of greater restrictions. On behalf of SAN, thank you to those who are involved in our cause! Let’s strive to rally others in the current legislative session and beyond. If you aren’t yet involved, stay informed free of charge at semaSAN.com/join. As a member, you will receive legislative updates as they happen in your jurisdiction in addition to the newsletter — no cost, SPAM, or “catch.” Ask your friends to do the same. After all, great strength comes with great numbers. Together, we will continue to make a difference for ourselves and for the street rodders of future generations. IGNITED WE STAND! SRL
This limited edition poster was given out at the SEMA Action Network’s (SAN) 2015 SEMA Show display. The piece featured my illustration of the newly-finished ‘31 Ford Model A.
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Purchase of full lawn plan required for Healthy Lawn Analysis, which is performed at the first visit. u Guarantee applies to full plan customers only. © 2015 TruGreen Limited Partnership. All rights reserved.
PUNCHING&
FLARING H ot rodding innovation borrowed heavily from the aircraft industry of the 1940s and 1950s, when strength and weight savings were paramount. One common practice to reduce weight was to drill holes to remove unnecessary material while flaring the edge to help maintain strength. Early on in hot rodding days, you would see a lot of sheet metal cut out to save weight on the track. One of the most famous uses came from Pontiac on their “Swiss Cheese” ’63 Catalina drag cars that had hundreds of holes drilled throughout the chassis. Prior to that however, the use of punch and flares were found on serious hot rods and have since become more of a cool visual detail found on everything from seat brackets and interior panels to radiator supports. 14
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We’ve always liked these kinds of details but are far from talented when it comes to sheet metal working. We were perusing the web one day and came across tools to create consistent punch and flares, and it looked like something even we could handle. We called up Mittler Bros. Machine and Tool for more info. Mittler offers a number of automotive and aircraft punch/flare kits ranging in dies from 1 to 3 inches in diameter. Not only are these handy for aesthetics, but the dies are also ideal for creating an instrument panel (each die can be used without the flare for a perfect circle). The dies are available individually or as a complete kit if you’re getting really serious. Also, thanks to the bolt and
WORDS & PHOTOS: Todd Ryden
Sweating the details with Mittler Bros. threaded lower die, no press is needed. (Though if you were doing a large number of holes, a press would be handy.) The punch/flare die is heavy duty and will last you a long time punching holes in everything in your garage. Once the hole is punched, the top die follows with a 45-degree flare with a length of about 1/4 inch for a smooth, finished transition. As far as material, the dies are designed for use with metals ranging from .023 to .065 inch. The end result will make you look like a pro, and we can see how easy it is to get into more sheet metal tricks. We already have our eyes on the punch/ bead dies, or their Jamey Jordan series oval and even triangle punch/flare kits. Thanks Mittler Bros.! SRL Source: Mittler Bros. Machine and Tool, mittlerbros.com
Each punch and flare assembly consists of three dies: the female die that holds the punch, the punch, and the flare side. A grade-8 bolt and anti-friction bearing are also included.
After drilling a pilot hole for the bolt, install the punch/flare die as shown. It’s a good idea to apply a little grease to the bolt threads and to the bearing.
Start tightening the bolt. You’ll notice that the lower die with the punch will tighten against the metal material first. Once the hole is cut, it will get easy to tighten the bolt again as it flares the edges. Tighten the bolt until the flare die is nearly flush with the metal being worked.
One down and we’re ready to punch and flare nearly everything in the shop!
Mittler offers this handy storage case to keep all your punch/flares together. Plus, it’s easy to take to your buddy’s house for a night of hole punching. STREETRODLIFE.COM
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TRUCK WORDS & PHOTOS: Louis Kimery
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A Texas truck built to haul in style
T
rucks are such an essential tool to have in the driveway. We either own them, borrow one, or pester that poor friend who has one. They haul parts and weekend landscaping materials, and are there every time a new piece of furniture is purchased. It’s pretty tough to ignore pickup trucks in the greater hot rod cosmos. After faithful service of carrying and hauling, it makes sense a truck can become the object of mechanical desire. Suddenly, and without warning, a new hot rod project may be created with agrarian roots. A shop truck with an ulterior purpose. There is a long tradition of work vehicles being led down this path. Some hot rodders are able to completely abandon the notion of their truck as a working tool as they transition their commercial vehicles into desirable cruisers. In doing so, they help create an entire sub-genre of cool — the hot rod truck. The vibrant red ’34 Ford pickup you see here is an example of what our often obsessive love for trucks can lead to. Joe Cappadona of Rossville, Tennessee, owns this jewel, and it shares garage space with his mean looking ’32 Ford three-window coupe and a slinky ’68 Chevy pickup. All of Joe’s rides are great examples of hot rodding craftsmanship, but you have to take notice the pickup trucks are presently dominating Joe’s garage.
TO SEE MORE, SEARCH “FERTILIZER TRUCK” @ StreetRodLife.com
The custom bed is crafted from steel, as are the running boards. Fenders are fiberglass. Note the “Fertilizer TRK” Texas plate.
This truck was born to be a hot rod. It began this journey as a project of West Monroe, Louisiana’s, Clint Caraway. Clint was well-acquainted with the crew at Russ Nomore Street Rods in Chatham, Louisiana, and he recruited them to help out with much of the truck’s construction. As a result, this truck is equipped with some very unique and specific features, such as the Nomore signature fiberglass body. Nomore Street Rods builds top notch fiberglass for many of the more popular applications in the street rod world. This unique truck body features the same build quality as all of their fiber18
STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
A custom tool box was concocted to secure travel necessities for weekend getaways.
glass bodies, along with some practical updates that were made for the sake of appearance and drivability.
The cab features a filled roof and a molded-in visor. The top has been chopped a modest two inches, while the
The body consists of a fabricated steel bed mated to a Nomore cab which is 4 inches longer than stock with a 2-inch chop Note the molded-in visor and seamless roof.
length has been extended by four inches, raising the comfort level significantly for long-legged rodders. Additional details of this one-off truck body include a steel bed, a fourpiece hood, and steel running boards. Fiberglass fenders and the distinctive canted 1934 Ford radiator shell round out the body work. The Nomore crew also laid down the flawless Dodge Viper red paint that makes this one easy to spot in a crowd. The chassis was built around American Stamping Corporation’s 1934 Ford frame rails, with a set of Pete & Jake’s ladder bars securing a 9-inch rear end out back. More Pete & Jake’s goodies are used up front, including a 4-inch dropped I-beam axle, shorty tube shocks, and four-bar parallel link radius rods. Sixteen-inch Billet Specialties ‘Dragster’ wheels and BF Goodrich rubber connect everything to the tarmac. STREETRODLIFE.COM
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Ford fans will breathe a sigh of relief to see the highly detailed and dressed 302c.i. mill under the four-piece hood.
Under the four-piece hood, we find a familiar power plant that keeps everything in the Ford family. A 302c.i. Ford Windsor is equipped with GT-40 heads, a roller cam, and an Edelbrock aluminum intake topped with Edelbrock Performer series carb. High-temp powder coated headers handle the exhaust, while black-finished Ford Racing valve covers and air cleaner adds the visual appeal. Inside the cab, we find the handy work of M&M Interiors of Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Wide-pleat tan leather upholstery covers a contoured bench seat and custom door panels. It’s an ideal compliment to the vibrant red paint. Classic Instruments provided the gauges to monitor vital engine information, and a tilt steering column supports a banjo-style, leather-wrapped steering wheel. When Cappadona acquired the truck, he focused his attentions on some practical detailing over the recent winter months. He sent the headers over to Rick’s Powder Coating in Memphis 20
STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
Thanks to the lengthened cab, the interior offers much more breathing space. The dash was updated with gauges from Classic Instruments, tilt steering adds comfort on the long haul, and a Lokar shifter provides gear.
for a slick silver high-temp coating, and he fabbed new lines for the AC system. His buddy, Gene McCoy, used his metal bending skills to create a new ‘trunk’ for the bed. The slick metal box sits in the forward section of the perfectly detailed bed and is the perfect place to stash an
overnight bag while making the rod run scene during the warmer months. Another of Cappadona’s street rodding pals realized the working heritage of trucks and provided the Texas ‘Fertilizer Truck’ license plate as a bit of an insider joke. Joe proudly displays the plate with-
in the recessed area of the rolled rear pan. Although the ’34 never lived through a life of hauling parts, tools, nor fertilizer, it certainly illustrates what a truck can become if given a second chance. Remember, cars commute — trucks are built to haul! SRL
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The
RATIO
GAME
Adding rocker ratio is an easy way to make more horsepower
WORDS & PHOTOS: Jeff Smith
W
hen playing the Ratio Game, the object is simple: jack up the valve lift and make more horsepower. When you pass go, you pick up valve lift to help make horsepower. But be careful. Arbitrarily adding too much rocker ratio can send your engine into valve float, and you can lose all your hard-earned horsepower! It’s a fun game — as long as you know the rules. Okay, so we made up that game, but the rest of this information is definitely useful if you play with engines. A cam swap is a sure way to make more power, but installing a better bumpstick can be quite an undertaking. Another way to bolt on power could be with a set of rocker arms. All pushrod engines use rocker arms to multiply cam lobe lift and increase the movement of the valve. A small-block Chevy, for example, uses a 1.5:1 rocker ratio, while big-block Chevys, small-block Fords, and LS engines use as much as 22
STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
1.7:1. With a 0.333-inch lobe lift, the multiplication of a 1.7:1 ratio will generate 0.566-inch of valve lift. That’s a great step toward making more power. But just like the proverbial free lunch, there are strings attached to any rocker ratio swap. Let’s look first at what happens at the valve when we multiply the ratio. We’ll use our trusty small-block Chevy as the example. The distance from the centerline of the rocker stud to the center of the rocker tip is 50 percent longer than the distance from the rocker stud centerline to the center of the pushrod cup, to create a 1.5:1 rocker ratio. Because the distance from rocker center to the valve center is fixed, to increase the ratio, we simply move the pushrod cup closer to the rocker stud. But anytime we increase the ratio, this also multiplies other dynamic conditions.
Rocker arms come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and ratios. The big difference between a stamped steel rocker like this Crane piece (left) and a true roller rocker like the Lunati (middle) is the roller trunnion uses tiny needle bearings that reduce friction and heat. LS engine rocker arms (right) use a needle bearing trunnion with a fixed rocker tip. These LS rockers have been fitted with COMP’s improved roller trunnion kit (PN 13702-KIT).
We know increasing the ratio from 1.5:1 to 1.6:1 increases valve lift. But at any given rpm, that means that the valve must achieve that greater lift in the same amount of time — defined by the cam’s duration numbers. So in order to achieve greater valve lift, the rocker arm accelerates the valve at a greater rate up to maximum lift and then also must accelerate the valve on the closing side much more quickly. The amount of time the valve is open (expressed as degrees of duration) does not change with added rocker ratio, but the valve achieves higher lift at every point within that span between opening and closing. If these greater acceleration rates exceed the valve spring’s ability to control the valve, the result is often referred to as valve float. Most enthusiasts think valve float is where the valve launches off the nose of the cam like an alpine ski jumper. While this
The ratio of the distance from the pushrod to the center of the rocker arm stud compared to the distance from the valve centerline to the center of the rocker establishes the ratio. Moving the pushrod cup closer to the rocker stud decreases the distance and increases the rocker ratio.
can happen, the true definition of valve float is a loss of control where the valve does not precisely follow the opening and closing points defined by the cam lobe. The first loss of control that most commonly occurs is when the valve closes too quickly to the seat. If the valve hits the seat hard enough, it will bounce because the spring load is not sufficient to keep it closed. This is often caused by a faster rocker ratio slamming the valve closed at a much greater rate. A little valve bounce may not seem like a big deal. But consider the ramifications. Cylinder pressure can only begin to build the moment the intake valve closes. Cylinder pressure is the key to making more horsepower. But if the valve bounces, some STREETRODLIFE.COM
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Retainer Valve lock of that pressure is lost, and power dramatically drops. The more the valve bounces, the worse the Must be greater than valve lift Installed power loss. height This usually occurs with the Valve intake side bestem seal cause the intake valve is larger and heavier, but valve bounce can often This illustration shows the relationship of the retainer to the valve guide seal. You must afflict the exhaust check to make sure the lift generated by side as well. Why? adding rocker ratio allows sufficient clearance Because cam debetween the bottom of the retainer and the top of the seal. This spec is 0.050-inch, but it signers know the can be tighter. exhaust valve is lighter, they often use a more aggressive lobe design for the exhaust side. So then, if you add a higher rocker ratio to that more aggressive lobe, this can create valve bounce and a loss of power. This means if you are considering a change in rocker ratio in order to make more power with your street engine, the decision may need to be expanded beyond the rockers to the entire valvetrain. The first thing to consider is whether an increase in rocker ratio will cause valvetrain bind or interference. Let’s say our smallblock is equipped with a set of stock iron Vortec cylinder heads. These heads have a good reputation for flow for a production head, but they are limited to a maximum valve lift of 0.450inch. Let’s say our current 1.5:1 rocker arm setup creates 0.440inch of valve lift. To add a set of 1.6:1 rockers, we first need to calculate exactly how much lift we will add. If all we know is the total valve lift, we can still determine the new lift. Simply divide the current valve lift of 0.440 by 1.5, which equals 0.293. This is the cam lobe lift. Now multiply 0.293 x 1.6 and our new valve lift equals 0.469-inch — an increase of almost 0.030-inch. But our maximum valve lift limit is 0.450-inch, meaning we must increase the seal-to-retainer clearance, the limiting factor with Vortec heads. The best approach is to machine the valve guide down to increase the retainer-to-seal clearance. This would also be a good time to add a stronger spring to control valve bounce. Taking this example to the next level, we did a test a couple of years ago on a junkyard 355c.i. small-block Chevy with stock iron heads. The engine made what would now be considered mediocre power with 370 lb-ft of torque at 4,000 rpm and 334 hp at 5,400 rpm. (We have a 325c.i. LS engine that makes more than that with just a cam swap!). This power was with 1.5:1 rocker arms, so we added a set of 1.6:1 Lunati roller rockers. We were rewarded by losing 21 hp. So, what went wrong? The limiting factor was the valve springs. There was no fault with the camshaft or the rocker arms. But, when we increased the valve acceleration rate with the 1.6:1 rocker arm ratio, the springs could not maintain control of the valves. We performed further testing and discovered we could bring the power up to around 340 hp (an increase of 6 hp) by using 1.5:1 rockers on the intake and 1.6:1 rockers on the exhaust. This worked because the heavier intake valves put too much load on the springs. Plus, sometimes small-block Chevys can make a little more power with a higher rocker ratio on the exhaust side by improving exhaust scavenging. You can’t get good air in if the bad air is still in the chamber.
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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
Even though this is a story on rocker arms, adding ratio puts a much greater load on the valve springs. Ensuring the spring is capable of handling increased valve acceleration rates from a faster rocker ratio is critical to avoiding valve float.
Late model small-block Chevy heads use holes drilled in the head for the pushrod. Increasing the rocker ratio moves the pushrod inboard, and it may bind in the pushrod hole. This is a common problem that not only wears the pushrod but hurts power as well.
It’s beyond the scope of this story to get into spring recommendations, so the best move is to call your favorite cam company for a spring and rocker ratio upgrade recommendation. You need to be careful with flat tappet cams, for example, because excessive spring rates can contribute to undue cam or lifter wear. Generally speaking, you can run slightly higher spring rates with mechanical lifter cams than with hydraulic lifters. Another critical piece of the power game is cylinder heads.
Always check the positon of the rocker tip over the end of the valve tip. For engines with adjustable valve trains, like a small-block Chevy or Ford, pushrod length may need to be changed. The best way to check is to place the lifter on the base circle of the lobe and mark the end of the valve tip with a Sharpie. Wiggle the rocker so it reveals the rocker position on the valve tip. The contact should be on the inboard third of the valve tip. If the mark is in the center, the pushrod is too long.
Lunati sells a rocker arm kit with eight 1.5:1 rockers and eight 1.6:1 rockers for a small-block Chevy, and oftentimes, the engine will make more horsepower by placing the 1.6:1 rockers on the exhaust side. In this photo, we are testing the 1.6:1 rockers on the intake side using a set of Edelbrock Performer RPM heads.
When installing rockers on any engine, it’s easiest to use the exhaust opening/intake closing method (EOIC). You can find this method outlined on the internet, but this is an accurate and easy way to set rockers, like these Crane roller rockers on this high-rpm small-block. Remember to set lash with mechanical lifters, with the engine at operating temperature.
Flow rates will play a big part in how much power can be retrieved with more valve lift. For example, we’ve included a chart of the flow comparisons of a mildly-ported stock iron 049 oval port big-block Chevy intake port versus the flow numbers from a set of Jegs aluminum oval port heads. As you can see, the 049 port does not increase flow above 0.500-inch lift. So, if we had a camshaft that created 0.550-inch lift using the stock 1.7:1 rocker ratio, we could expect minimal or no gain from pushing the rocker ratio to 1.8:1. The flow numbers don’t support the added valve lift. Conversely, looking at the flow numbers for the Jegs head, it’s obvious installing this head on the same engine with 0.550inch valve lift would instantly reward more lift, either from a rocker ratio increase or from a higher lift cam. This is a pretty dramatic differential, but it does prove the point that if the heads are flow-limited, arbitrarily adding rocker ratio may not deliver the results you were expecting. If we step back from the details of this story, a final important point is rocker arms are a small part in the overall valve train power scheme. Your engine is like a symphony — when every instrument is playing the same notes, the music is beautiful. SRL Sources: COMP Cams, compcams.com; Crane Cams, cranecams.com; Lunati, lunatipower.com
Adding valve lift also affects piston-to-valve (P/V) clearance. Most street engines don’t have to be too concerned with this, but it is something worth mentioning. Valves hitting pistons is rarely ever a good thing.
Flow Testing
Test 1 is the intake port flow on a pocket-ported 049 iron big-block Chevy head with a 2.18-inch intake valve. Test 2 is a Jegs aluminum oval port intake port flow using a 2.250-inch intake valve. Clearly, you could expect a greater power return from increasing the rocker ratio and net valve lift on the Jegs head compared to the 049 head. Valve Lift 0.100 0.200 0.300 0.400 0.500 0.600 0.700
Test 1 70 144 205 251 277 275 266
Test 2 64 123 190 247 286 318 332
Difference -6 -21 -15 -4 +9 +43 +66 STREETRODLIFE.COM
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TO SEE MORE, SEARCH “DANBURY DIAMOND” @ StreetRodLife.com
I
t’s easy to spot a diamond in the rough, but can a diamond among diamonds be spotted as easily? When you’re slowly walking the aisles of the Grand National Roadster show with thousands of other car guys, it’s very easy to walk right past a stunning car, since everywhere you turn is another beautiful car. There was no missing this mesmerizing Merc. The custom work is stunning yet subtle, and the Brandywine hue can actually become mesmerizing. The car was truly a diamond among diamonds. Surprisingly, this Merc, with its long list of extreme metal work throughout and stellar paint, was a first-time custom build for Rick Bennett of Danbury, Connecticut. He did have some help during the three-year build from sons Cory, Evan, and Collin (who were ages 21, 12, and 9 at the time). It should be mentioned Rick owns and operates Danbury Auto Body and he’s built a of couple street rods, including one wicked little chopped down ’39 Diamond tow truck, but this was the family’s first foray into a complete custom build. WORDS & PHOTOS: Michael Harrington STREETRODLIFE.COM
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Three years and the help of three sons are what it took for Rick Bennett to get this ’51 Merc completed. That is after it sat as an unfinished project for three decades!
The car was parked in the shop over the course of three years, and he and his boys poured their heart and soul into this project. “I worked on that car six days a week for three years,” Rick says. “I have 10,000 hours in that build and would never do another one!” As the story goes, Rick purchased the ’51 from friend Bob Mariani, who had started construction on it nearly 30 years ago. The top was chopped and tacked into place and the chassis completely reworked, but that was about as far as Bob had made it. Sometimes, real life just gets in the way of our dreams. Enter the Bennett family for the rescue. Fortunately, Bob mentored Rick and the boys on the history of customized Mercs and the subtle art of modifying them. The way you hear Rick tell the story, Mariani possessed some sort of voodoo powers as every time he and his boys worked on the car, Bob would call or magically appear to find out what work was being done. We’d be better off pointing out things that haven’t been modified, but that would make for a pretty short story. Custom taillights and bumpers provide a highlight of chrome as the Merc rounds out in the end.
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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
Rick hauled his first custom rod across the country to the 2015 Grand National Roadster Show where he finished second in his class. Better yet were the people he got to meet at the show, including a lot of custom building legends and builders he’d only read about.
on that “Icarworked six days a week for three years. I have 10,000 hours in that build and would never do another one!
”
Under the bulging, long Merc hood is a detailed small-block Chevy backed by a TH-400 trans. This proven combo is secured in a cradle from a ’70 Firebird.
All corners of the hood, doors, and deck lid were rounded. As required, the emblems, door handles, and protruding chrome were shaved clean as well. The side molding is also a custom-made piece. STREETRODLIFE.COM
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Rick and son Cory built the custom grille and modified the bumpers. Note the headlamp extensions and custom hood edging. The fender flares are courtesy of a ’53 Ford.
The amount of custom work is simply exhaustive and almost too much to list, but we’ll give it a shake. The roof was chopped six inches, but Bennett didn’t like the crown in the roof, so he heat-shrunk the metal 5/8 of an inch in order to tuck it all in. The knowledge involved and patience required in heat-shrinking the Merc’s original crown is an astounding feat, which would ruin many an ordinary man. A couple key components Rick credits to his boys include the pop-up license plate design that his youngest Collin built with magnets and window channels. Evan designed the subtle peak at the top of the quarters, and his oldest son, Cory, made the tail lamp lenses and diffusers. After all the metal work was claimed as final, Rick sprayed the BASF Brandywine shade over the metal canvas. Mariani provided Rick with a set of NOS Appleton 112 spotlights that were still in the box. When one of the doors click open, it’s like stepping into a snow drift as white leather covers the seats, doors, and headliner, courtesy of Custom Interior and Audio just down the street from Rick’s shop. A steering wheel from a ’58 Merc was crafted from bare wire, including sanding in the finger grooves. If this is Rick Bennett’s first attempt at building a custom car, we would love to see what he does next! SRL 30
STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
The interior, steering wheel, and dash have all been customized as much as the body. The white leather was stitched by Custom Interior and Audio, also in Danbury, and provides absolute comfort and a glowing contrast to the deep wine exterior.
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WORDS & PHOTOS: Todd Ryden
Master Power Brakes is your one stop shop for fittings, adapters, and tubing
reating the path for brake fluid to reach from the master cylinder to each corner of your rod can be a tedious task. The worst part for us has never been the fitting and bending of the lines, or even making the flares, it’s always been the search for the correct adapter, fitting, or junction! Brake components, from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinder, caliper or metering block, seem to be all over the map when it comes to fittings and thread pitches. This is especially true when modifying the system with OEM and replacement
parts, and we’ve found ourselves driving all over town in search of the correct adapter to finish the job. The solution is to be prepared and call on an expert to help. In this case, we went to Master Power Brakes, where we found a 60-piece Adapter Kit that is full of the most common fittings, adapters, couplers, and T’s used when plumbing brakes. For $70, the kit is quite a deal. Remember, there are going to be at least 10 junctions in your brake system, so having the right hardware on hand is important to get the job done. We’ve been
You’re not going to find most of these adapters and fittings at your local parts store, but you’ll need most of them when building brake lines. With years of experience and working with customers, MPB knows what you’ll need to get the job done.
Not only will you need adapters, but having a couple plugs, a variety of fittings, joiners, and junctions will also come in handy.
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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
After using MPB’s brake tubing, we will never use steel line again. Their line is a copper and nickel alloy that is easy to work with, even with your hands, and was much easier to create perfect flares.
The most common flare used on domestic vehicles and street rods is the inverted 45-degree flare.
A trick option is to use AN fittings, which require a single 37-degree flare.
Thanks to the easy-to-work with tubing, you’ll be making lines like a pro! Note the different fittings and adapters used just at the master cylinder and combination valve. They’re all included with MBP’s Adapter Kit.
in the position where we would have spent that just to get the one fitting we needed to finish the job! While we were there, we opted to try out MPB’s Cunifer Brake Line. The tubing is pliable by hand, allowing you to form smooth bends and transitions. It is a seamless tubing made from copper and nickel alloy so it is also rust proof, but the best thing is how easy it is to work with. After practicing forming and flaring a couple short lengths, we vowed to never use steel line again.
The tubing is available in 1/4-inch and 3/16-inch diameters and supplied in a 25-foot roll. Depending on what kind of vehicle you’re working on, and how intricate your routing is, you should be able to make it with a single roll. SRL Source: Master Power Brakes, mpbrakes.com
STREETRODLIFE.COM
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with Bodie
Stroud
The name Bodie Stroud probably rings a bell with you. After all, his shop, Bodie Stroud Industries, was featured just last season on the History Channel’s show American Restoration, not to mention a list of other television shows. But TV isn’t the only reason you know the name. Bodie and his team at BSI have built a number of cool rods that have been a success through media and even on the floor at the SEMA show, winning praises as Best of Show and the Ford Design Award. With proven builds combined with his Los Angeles location, his team has also designed and built cars for a number of celebrities including car guy Tim Allen, Johnny Depp, Johnny Knoxville, and more. Whether he’s turning an antique soda cooler into a modern-day kegerator, designing a rod for a Hollywood A-lister, or building a fence in his backyard, Bodie simply likes to create. His art is metal, and most of the time, it’s attached to four wheels. We caught up with Bodie between welding and video shoots to learn a little more about how he’s built a successful career using street rods as his canvas. You can also see more of his builds and projects at bodiestroud.com.
TO SEE MORE, SEARCH “BODIE STROUD” @ StreetRodLife.com
You grew up in Tujunga, California, so there were a lot of what we consider classic cars today on the road in the early 1970s. My dad had cars from the ’50s, including a ’57 Chevy, and his friends all had cars and trucks of that era. I just remember the big steel dash, the metal, chrome and trim of those cars. When you’re a kid, it all seemed larger than life. So I guess that did make an impression on me. He also had some more hippy-ish friends that cruised a VW van which was really cool to me. They could be used as surf vans, hippy vans, camping — all the cool stuff for a kid to see.
What was your first car? The first car I worked on and built was a ’61 18-window VW bus. It was just a shell that I pulled out of a friend’s backyard. It had been sitting there forever and even had a tree growing through it. I dragged it home, and friends and I did a complete rebuild that took about three years before it was on the road. During high school I had an auto shop with Mr. Campbell who was awesome. He taught me all about basic mechanics, which helped get me started.
You tried art school (Art Center College of Design in Passadena) but decided that wasn’t for you. Why not, and what did you do next? I’m very creative and like to draw, but I couldn’t sit still long enough to finish a drawing! Actually, I learned that I most enjoyed creating with my hands and building things. I always was building things with friends and working on their drag boats, or a truck with hydraulics, or hot rod stuff. Eventually I realized that I could be artistic and mechanical at the same time and express it through cars and trucks. I worked at a moving company and ended up repairing or maintaining the trucks. This led to an entry-level position at a diesel repair facility where I shadowed my girlfriend’s (and soonto-be wife) uncle who was an incredible mechanic. After work, like most car guys, I messed around with hot rods.
You got your television start on Monster Garage with builder Jesse James. How did you end up on Monster Garage? It was one of those ‘a friend of a friend’ meetings at some point. My day job turned into a lot of maintenance on big hydraulic pumps, and one day Jesse calls me and asks if I could help turn
a ’69 Rolls Royce into a porta-potty pumping machine for Monster Garage. I told him I could, got on the show, and we did it. This was really cool because my son was a big fan of Monster Garage. After that, I was asked back for a few more episodes here and there.
der, and that’s what happens all day now! It’s tough to try to create and get the job done when someone’s right there watching. It’s tough to get in the creative zone then need to stop and explain what you’re doing or check on something else. But I’ve gotten used to it.
What other TV shows have you been on?
Projects that BSI tackles are all over the map. Is there a difference between a TV build and a shop build?
I’ve been involved with several Hot Rod TV episodes and builds, Garage Mahal, Rock My RV, and now with American Restoration.
The new show, American Restoration is on the History Channel. The show was revamped for 2016 and features five shops across the country, including BSI. How has that been going? We were in all 13 episodes of the show and are now waiting to see what their plan is for next season. I had a good time; the projects were really cool and challenging. It’s been a great experience.
There’s definitely a difference, but the similarity is that I have to put out a quality piece of work, and it must be right. TV doesn’t show the hours of details that it takes to finish something right, like getting the wipers working perfectly, or a power window or door gaps and seals. Those are things that take hours to get right for the customer before they drive off in their new car. On TV, we need to get it running and looking good, which is important, but those details are what take the time.
What is it like to work in a shop with a camera crew constantly following you around? Can you really get much work done?
American Restoration covers projects besides cars, such as the vintage electric battery charger from the turn of the century or the Royal Crown soda cooler turned kegerator. How do you like the change?
It can be difficult! I’ve never liked to have someone watching over my shoul-
I love doing stuff like that. I like old mechanical stuff because it’s so simplified STREETRODLIFE.COM
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and basic mechanics. It’s cool to get your hands on that stuff and put my own twist on it. Then again, it’s also cool just to restore it as stock too.
We saw the 1947 Davis Divan threewheel car at the Petersen Museum, which you restored. What was it like working on such a unique, rare piece of automotive history? That car was really a challenge, but it was so cool. Again, I like nearly anything old and mechanical, and our goal with that car was to restore it to how it would have looked at the dealership show room. We did a lot of research on those cars, and it was a lot of work with so few ever being built. However, it’s a great feeling to walk into the Petersen Automotive Museum and see our name among such an amazing collection of car history.
Do you have a favorite project that you’ve completed? I do, but I don’t think I’ve completed it yet. The joy is the process really.
Any personal cars? How about a dream car for yourself? My wife says I have too many, but I just love old stuff. I have 11 projects, I’d say, including a bullet-nose ’50 Studebaker, a ’55 Crown Vic, a ’69 Lincoln, a couple ’56 Ford pickups, a ’54 Caddy, and others.
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We see you’re working on a turnkey truck program. Can you explain more about that concept and how it’s coming along? BSI now offers a complete turnkey ’56 Ford F100 made to your options. Our website has a page where you can select a number of different options for the interior, paint color, suspension packages, and more. I know these trucks inside and out, and people have always asked about them, so this just made sense. We have a couple being built right now. We’re also getting more into suspensions and complete chassis. We’re of-
fering bolt-on chassis for tri-fives, early Ford and Chevy trucks, and ’37–’41 Ford cars. There’s a lot more coming up!
Finally, what would you suggest to younger builders wanting to get involved in the hot rod industry? Buckle up and hang on! Actually, I’d tell these guys that they have to start at the bottom. You’re not going to just walk into a shop and be the top guy. Listen, learn, and earn people’s trust. Do what you say you’re going to do. Also, roll with the blows, learn from the tough times, and plow through. SRL
Bodie knows vintage Ford pickups inside and out. This truck features a supercharged 5.0L Coyote and a long list of details. If you want one, go to Bodie's website and fill out your own build sheet! 2016_XM_Power&Perf_Ad2.pdf
1
3/16/16
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WORDS & PHOTOS: Todd Ryden
T
he Charlotte Motor Speedway was abuzz with cars and enthusiasts in early April, albeit at a slightly slower pace than the normal race week. This event was the annual spring Charlotte AutoFair, which turns the entire raceway and surrounding parking areas into a giant swap meet. The event is hosted by the Hornets Nest Region of the Antique Automobile Club of America, and they also hold their National Spring Meet during the weekend. The AACA show itself takes place on Saturday, while the swap meet is a four-day event. The west coast has Pomona and Long Beach, while the east coast has the AutoFair. We walked the entire track, checking out cars and trucks for sale, and saw everything from barn find sedans to Buick Grand Nationals. There were finished rods, half-finished projects, and piles of parts everywhere you looked. Prices were all over the map, but we were there only on the second day, so most asking prices were still just that — asking. Come Sunday, we’re sure prices were being slashed with haggling and horse-trading taking place across the speedway. Trucks, particularly square body GM short beds, were in volume, ranging from stock six cylinders to LS swaps. Muscle cars were in abundance along with a fair number of full size ‘60s cruisers. In the garage area of the pits, the used parts turned to new stuff from top manufacturers including Holley, Edelbrock, Flaming River, Advanced Plating, Factory Five, and many more. If you were looking for restoration or performance parts for your project, the infield vendors had it. We were looking for a few parts while doing some window shopping for project cars (there’s only so much you can pack in a 38
STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
carry-on). It’s always interesting to keep up on asking prices and look at what’s being offered out there. We saw some prices we felt were way out of range, but we also found some to be on target, and even a couple pretty good deals. That, of course, depends on what you’re looking for and your own thoughts on budgets. If you’re ready for your next project, looking for parts, or just have some cash you want to trade for a hot rod, think about attending the fall Charlotte AutoFair. It takes place September 22-25. We know when we come back in the spring next year, we’ll plan better and take a couple days to view the AACA show as well. SRL Source: Charlotte AutoFair, charlotte-autofair.com
This ’62 Biscayne caught our eye because we owned one for several years and lament letting it go. This one had a 283c.i. and 4-speed along with new brakes and lines, gas tank and lines, and a heater core. New tires and exhaust made it seem the car was updated to be a driver. The body had some dents and the patina was a bit crusty plus new floor pans were already installed. Asking price was $8,900.
Late 1960s and 1970s Ford pickups are becoming more popular and this ’67 shortbed was a pretty solid example of an old work truck. There were more than a few dings, dents, and scrapes showing this rigs’s experience on the farm or at work, but there were new tires and a solid bed. Priced at $8,500.
The asking price on this ’47 Ford coupe was $15,000. The notes said it had new wheels and tires complemented with rebuilt brakes and other new updates. The car was very original and very complete.
The owner was sparse on details about this ’41 Chevy coupe other than the fact that it was a Special Deluxe and they were asking $17,500. The car appeared very solid and complete plus was sporting new whites and mags.
We were really liking this ’59 Mercury as it seemed to be only a few steps away from being a good cruiser. It was listed at $9,500 and had been tuned up with a fresh fuel pump, battery, starter, brakes, and hoses. STREETRODLIFE.COM
39
If A-code GT Mustangs are your thing, how about making a package deal for this ’66 and ’65. Both were offered for sale by the same owner.
Looking for something to finish? How about a ’30 Model A pickup? The project was listed at $25,000 and had a 305c.i. Chevy and 700R4 trans mounted into a completed chassis that had already been painted as well. There was a long list of other parts included with the truck.
This ’29 Ford pickup was listed at $10,900 and had quite a few people checking it out. It looked ready to cruise with a rebuilt engine and 5-speed trans from an S10 plus had AC, tilt, new radials, glass, and radiator.
This traditionally flavored ’29 Roadster had us stop by for a closer look. It was built with a Brookville body and chassis. Nice to see an Olds (a ’50 303c.i.) with a tri-power and a T5 gearbox. It included a hardtop and parts for a soft top as well, but why would you ever want to cruise this one with a top? $28,000 or best.
This ’49 Ford sedan was listed at $20,000 and only 17,000 miles with one repaint. What do you think?
Would you pay $22,500 for a one owner, original ’37 Ford hump-back?
Said to be a survivor with under 22,000 miles, this ’70 Mach I had a price tag of $24,000 on it. The Mustang was equipped with an automatic trans, air conditioning, power steering, and its original 351W. Cool to see the red exterior with white guts from the factory.
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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
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WORDS & PHOTOS: Roger C. Johnson
What does a retired road racer drive to relax? An 800 hp Deuce of course
I
f you were a professional road racer with numerous national championships under your belt, the car you might drive on the street once you retired from competition would likely be some luxo-sedan, or a hot European sports car like an Audi R8. That’s the brand Mike Leathers pounded around road courses for well over a decade. It was actually an Audi Quattro — that AWD monster that ate pavement like candy long before the Nissan GTR was even dreamed of. The thing is, Mike is a born hot rodder, so his daily driver is as American as the very concept of hot rods. The machine before you represents a hot rod fantasy come true. It’s a car most of us dreamed about at one time or another, and would be driving daily ourselves if we were, well, Mike Leathers. Mike bought this unfinished car from an old friend who never had the time to 42
STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
complete it. It was just a bare metal roller that needed everything from the ground up when Mike finally got his hands on it. That’s when he employed the talent of Field Farrar of Metal Union in Atlanta, Georgia, to bring his vision to life. Now, don’t get the idea Mike simply bankrolled this project; he is way too
hands-on to just stand there and watch things happen without him. In fact, he did most of the sanding to the body and much of the wrenching during the actual build. He jokes it took two years before his fingerprints grew completely back because of the intensity of that sanding phase.
Dual in-line quads and those snake-like handmade headers by Metal Union put the total visual impact way over the top. Mike doesn’t bother with a hood for this car because it would be like wearing a glove over an eight-carat diamond ring.
This roadster is a Dearborn Deuce product and, yes, that is a Boss 429 mounted behind the ageless grille. Sure Chrysler, Cadillac, and Olds engines are hip, even historic when it comes to street rods. But this particular ’32 roadster makes it perfectly clear a Ford should be powered by a Ford. And in all due respect, we don’t mean some cute little 289. After almost five decades, the Boss 429 Ford is still justifying why it was called the “Boss” in the first place. These engines have always been ahead of their own time, so it shouldn’t be a surprise that they have recently displayed their ability to make more than 800 hp almost effortlessly. This Boss was built by Jon Kaase, and it simply looks intimidating just sitting there. Leathers actually said his Boss was “detuned” to 800 horses, you know, as a concession to street use, although the cubes were given a boost to a total of 547 inches.
TO SEE MORE, SEARCH “THERAPY WITH THE BOSS” @ StreetRodLife.com STREETRODLIFE.COM
43
If you’re thinking it’s all show and no go, we’ll point out Mike has accumulated more than 30,000 road miles in this car. In fact, when we contacted Leathers about this feature, he was on the road from central Florida back to the north Georgia area. The car gets driven! The drivetrain consists of a trusty Ford 9-inch, and highway-friendly 3.00:1 gears, along with a well-built C4 trans. This powerful combination is nestled into a Rod Shop chassis. Alden coilovers out back keep the tires planted with a smooth ride, while a Super Bell straight front axle with conventional shocks of the same make, along with a transverse leaf spring, provide a solid front system. Besides its modern hot rod chassis, the car’s perfect stance is finished with a set of polished America Racing Torq Thrust wheels. They strut their stuff inside Firestone 245x70/16s on the traction end and Goodyear 195/60x15s on the steering portion of the equation. With 800 hp to deal with, those big meats out back are still bullied by that Boss 547 engine. 44
STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
The stitching was done by the talented group at Timeless Rods & Customs in Lula, Georgia. Stewart Warner “Wings” gauges are a perfect fit and provide a slick heritage look as they precisely monitor the car’s speed and all engine functions. The brake pedal was intentionally angled for just a little extra foot clearance.
Does it get any better than a Boss 429 packed into a ’32 Ford. The answer is yes, because this is a Kaase-built Boss 547. STREETRODLIFE.COM
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When you take your hot rod out of town, the sophisticated gearhead needs somewhere handy to put their luggage and golf clubs. Mike’s solution was this “Mini-Me” trailer that is part function and part tribute to another car nut, Jeff Dunham. But we don’t want to put words in his mouth.
After a lifetime of driving on tracks in powerful, handling machines and close competition, this ’32 is like therapy to Mike. It provides the great looks and style of a street rod with the ground-pounding madness of modern day, over-the-top power. It’s all there and up to Mike on how to use it. And, he’s using it everywhere! SRL SEARCH “THERAPY WITH THE BOSS” @ StreetRodLife.com
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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
After a career of racing Audi Quatros on road courses, Mike Leathers’ has settled into the fun of driving a street rod ... albeit with 800 horses on tap!
It’s In The Details... The extra effort that goes into making each and every ARP fastener is evident in the final product. There are those companies whose primary concern is having the lowest price. Obviously, this means compromising material quality and taking shortcuts in manufacturing. ARP, on the other hand, stakes its reputation on quality; using only the best materials, employing extra manufacturing steps to perfect each fastener, and having relentless quality control. Moreover, ARP fasteners are
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manufactured entirely in our own ISO 9001:2008 and AS9100 registered facilities in Southern California. Look for the “ARP” stamped on each fastener as your assurance of quality. Check out our new 10-32 stainless steel 12-point bolts. They’re great for adding a finishing touch to your rod or custom. They, and over 250 other new products, are in the 2015 catalog available online or by request.
Get a FREE copy of the new 2015 catalog online
NEW
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PIECE
CAKE Our ididit column upgrade could not have been easier
WORDS & PHOTOS: Todd Ryden
I
s there anything more frustrating than starting a weekend project only to find you’re missing a crucial component that keeps you from finishing? In our last issue, we worked with the crew at ididit to make sure we would have everything needed to install a new steering column in our Tempest. Now, it was time to put them to the test! It certainly seemed like we were all 48
STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
set. We had our new floor shift column with an eight-position tilt and an adapter to install our old steering wheel. They also provided a direct plug-in harness for all the turn signal wiring. A couple years ago, we had upgraded to power steering with a variable rate Borgeson gearbox, and ididit knew exactly what adapter was needed to adapt the rag joint to the new double D shaft
that we would be using. It sure seemed like we had everything to finish the job. A few hours later, we were sitting behind the newly installed steering wheel testing out the ideal tilt position for cruising. Thanks to ididit, we had everything we needed to finish the swap in one afternoon, and were wondering why we waited so long to fix the column in the first place. SRL SOURCE: ididit, ididit.com
The team at ididit made sure we had everything we needed to complete the swap. This included the wiring and adapters required to go from the new 36-spline column shaft to the upgraded Borgeson steering box we installed a couple years ago.
1. We unbolted the steering rag joint from the gear box. A new adapter that accepts the double D shaft will mount in place.
2. After disconnecting the wiring, removing the wheel and the mounts, our assistant pulled the 51-year-old column out of the car.
3. The new column slid right into place, and we snugged it into position with the factory hardware. Once we felt like it was in the best position, we tightened it up so we could get a proper measurement for the new double D shaft length.
4. The ididit adapter fit right on the gearbox rag joint, while at the top, we slid on the new 36 spline-to-double D coupler (it is recommended to have an engagement of 7/8 to 1 inch). Once both were in place, we measured between them to determine the length of shaft required. STREETRODLIFE.COM 
49
5. After measuring a number of times, we settled on 18.75 inches as the length needed, then headed to the vise with a hacksaw.
Set screws and steering shafts Once you ensure the new double D shaft and everything is aligned and engaged properly with the coupler or U-joint, it is recommended to spot the shaft where the set screw makes contact. Before taking everything apart, mark the location of each set screw on the shaft. Use a 5/16-inch bit to create a spot on the shaft. You don’t need a deep hole in the shaft, just an indention for the set screw to seat. It’s also recommended to use a thread locking compound on the threads and nut.
6. The column was pulled back slightly to test fit the new shaft. Once everything was set in position, we inspected each junction on the shaft and things looked pretty good!
7. (Left) With the column and shaft aligned and in place, we moved to the top of the column. First, make sure the turn signal lever access is on the left side of the column. Next, rotate the horn cam (the little tube) to about the 10:30 position. (Right) Before installing the steering wheel, be sure to screw the turn signal lever into position.
8. An ididit column will accept 1969-1994 passenger car steering wheels, so ours required an adapter (available through ididit). The adapter has an arrow that installs pointing up, and we aligned the horn cam into place.
9. With the horn wiring routed into the cam and out through the adapter, we installed the cover assembly followed by the steering wheel. The contact ring installs (fiber side facing you) with three shoulder bolts. Connect the horn wire and tighten the wheel in place.
10. We checked the lights and horn, and most importantly the position of the wheel. The eight-position tilt is going to be an added luxury (the only luxury actually) on the long drives. Now that we know everything is together correctly and tested, we’ll take the column out to paint it to match the dash.
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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
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COMP Cam’s new LS Gear Drive provides strength and precision
WORDS & PHOTOS: Brandon Flannery
M
aking big horsepower requires precise timing. Today’s robust LS platform from Chevrolet lends itself well to modifications and quadruple-digit dyno numbers. For those swinging for the fences, or those that just want the best for their LS, the COMP Cams Gear Drive Timing Set should be a key component of the build list. Designed and built in the USA, it is the only LS-specific gear drive on the market. It provides the most accurate valve timing possible by eliminating chain flutter and backlash, and will not stretch like belts and chains. What’s more, it bolts right on without modification and retains the stock oil pump and timing cover for all LS-based
engines, except dry sump models, which will require an external pump. The system includes a timing wheel for both 24x and 58x options and feature REM-polished gears. As for the noise typically associated with gear drives, the single idler wheel and gear tooth design work together to tone that down. While there is a distinct sound, it’s not the obnoxious yowl of the straight-cut gears of old that would drown out a 6-71. In short, this is the strongest and most rigid timing set in existence and it works very well in all aspects. Installation is very straight-forward, and it truly bolts right on. Follow along and hit COMP Cams up if you have any questions. SRL Source: COMP Cams, compcams.com
TO SEE MORE INSTALL SHOTS, SEARCH “THE RIGHT STUFF” @ StreetRodLife.com
1. Start by removing everything from the front of the block down to the cam and laying out the parts. Contrary to popular belief, reading the instructions first actually helps. Take a minute and do just that.
52
STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
2. With the cam plate installed, begin by inserting the 0-degree bushing into the counterbore in the back of the cam gear. Use the supplied bolts to install the gear on the cam.
3. Make sure the dot is facing out on the crank gear and the chamfered end is facing in before driving it onto the crank.
4. Lightly install the rear idler plate on the block. Use the button head bolt on the left chain guide mount hole on the block and temporarily use the 1.25mm bolt to line up the right side. Leave both bolts finger tight; the plate will need to move to adjust the backlash. Line up the timing marks (cam gear dot facing directly down and crank gear dot directly up) and install the idler gear. Make sure the grooves of the supplied bronze thrust washers are facing towards the gear. Very important.
5. The backlash needs to be set to 0.010–0.015 inches. An easy way to do this is to run a stack of newspaper two sheets thick into the gears and force the gears together. Once the backlash is set, remove the idler gear and tighten the rear plates to 27 ft-lbs.
6. Since the gear drive is thicker than the factory chain, the oil pump needs to move forward to clear. The oil pump spacers mount on each side of the idler plate assembly. Make sure the big .55-inch hole on the driver’s side lines up with the block for proper oiling. Now is the time to degree the cam using the supplied bushings and then tighten the cam bolts to 27 ft-lbs.
7. If you are running a rear- or block valley-mounted cam sensor, skip this step. If you are running a front mounted cam sensor refer to your old camshaft and select the correct reluctor wheel. One is for single-pulse systems, the other for four-pulse systems. Match the outward-facing notch with the dot on the cam gear, and the inward notch with the dowel on the cam bolt circle. When properly aligned, use the spacers and bolt it to the cam gear, torquing to 7 ft-lbs or 84 in-lbs.
8. If you’re running a front-mount cam sensor, you must use the provided cam sensor spacer and O-ring for proper operation. Torque to 9 ft-lbs or 106 in-lbs and continue building your engine as normal. STREETRODLIFE.COM
53
TOOLS ACCESSORIES STUFF
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At Street Rod Life, we’re always on the look-out for new parts that will make your rod a little quicker, smoother, or simply cooler. This installment of Parts Store brings you a variety of great new products to hit the market. If you would like more information, follow the website or give them a call — be sure to tell them Street Rod Life sent you!
Big Ford stopping power Master Power Brakes, Full Size Ford and Mercury Brakes Ever have the brake pedal of your Ford or Mercury pushed to the floor, hoping the full-size girth of the car comes to a halt? For those of you with ’57–’72 big models, you’ll be happy to see the new front brake upgrade from Master Power Brakes. MPB’s re-engineered Legend Series Disc Brake Conversion kit for the ’57–’72 full-size Ford and Mercury will bolt in place of the factory front drums. Not only do you get outstanding braking performance, but the system is designed to allow the use of original style 15-inch wheels! The bolt-in kit is supplied with vented, two-piece, 11-inch rotors with a CNC-machined aluminum center hub. Strong billet brackets secure a durable Zinc-coated single piston caliper, and the kit includes new inner and outer wheel bearings, seals, flexible hoses, and mounting hardware! MPB offers the kit in manual or power assist. stopwithmpbrakes.com 888.249.9332
Dashing gauge mounts AutoMeter, Direct Fit Billet Dash Panels Upgrading the instrumentation of your rod is a key component when it comes to both monitoring the driveline as well as the overall appearance of the interior. Sometimes though, trying to get the gauges of your choice to fit properly in the factory cluster assembly can be a daunting task. AutoMeter understands this challenge, which is why they continue to develop new direct-fit mounting solutions for a growing number of applications. Their billet aluminum dash panels are precisely trimmed to fit exactly in the factory position and secure a number of AutoMeter gauges of your choice. Currently, AutoMeter offers billet mounts for Tri-Five Chevys, early Mustangs, vintage Ford and Chevy pickups, Novas, Firebirds, and Camaros, with more to come. autometer.com 866.248.6357
Even more new products
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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
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Stunning sound, classic style COMP Cams, Thumpr Cams for Old-School Street Rod Engines These cams are designed to provide outstanding sound matched with unbeatable performance. Featuring specially engineered profiles for each unique engine, Thumpr Camshafts deliver the perfect combination of early intake valve opening and long exhaust duration, with a generous amount of overlap. This maximizes any engine’s aggressive idling characteristics without negatively impacting streetability. The Thumpr Camshaft line includes classic street rod engines such as Buick Nailheads, Chrysler Hemis, Ford Y-Blocks and Flat-
Making the past new again Billet Specialties, Sprint Concave Wheel Billet Specialties’ new Sprint Concave Vintage wheel is the result of blending the past and future of wheel design. The wheel provides a taste of vintage yet is distinct enough to stand out as something new. With this blurred line of influence and originality, these wheels will look good today, and 10 years from now. Two concave center profiles are offered, a shallow design for the front and deep for the rear. These offerings allow the classic staggered hot rod look with big and skinnies. Finishes range from BS’s award winning polish or powder-coated in a brushed clear or smoke. billetspecialties.com 800.245.5382
heads, and many other popular options for classic GM applications. The cams come in three unique grinds known as Thumpr, Mutha’ Thumpr and Big Mutha’ Thumpr; each level fits a more aggressive application with higher compression ratios and converter stall speeds, as well as other upgrades such as gears, aftermarket intakes, and headers. Cams are available in hydraulic flat tappet, mechanical/solid flat tappet and hydraulic roller configurations. compcams.com 800.999.0853
Extending engine life Driven Racing Oil, HR Oils Available in 10W-30, 10W-40, and 15W-50 viscosities, Driven Hot Rod Oils are specifically formulated with high levels of ZDDP to protect older engines. Since many of these engines are not daily drivers, Driven has also added unique military-spec rust and corrosion inhibitors to prevent dry starting and corrosion caused during storage. These oils meet the latest SAE J300 Cold Cranking requirements and passed a rigorous 1000-hour severe storage simulation test with no signs of rust or corrosion. Driven HR Oils are available in conventional and synthetic blends and are proven to provide longer engine life. drivenracingoil.com 866.611.1820 STREETRODLIFE.COM
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TOOLS ACCESSORIES STUFF
PARTS STORE 302 + 59 = 500 Ford Racing, Z363 Crate Engine Ford Racing understands the old hot rodding adage “there is no substitute for cubic inches,” which is exactly why they developed the Z363 engine package. What’s great is this package is based on the 302 block and delivers 500hp with 450 lb-ft of torque! This combination uses the Ford Racing BOSS 302 block that is bored to 4.125 inches to obtain the 363 cubes. Mahle pistons fill the cylinders and are topped with a set of Z304D aluminum heads to set the compression right at 10:1. The hydraulic roller cam has a lift of .580 inches/.602 inches with a duration of 232 degrees/240 degrees (at .050 inches) and helps this engine scream upwards of 6,500 rpm! Killer power and fun in a package that can be used in cars originally built with a 289 or 302 8.2-inch deck height block. racing.ford.com
Metal for the middle Tri-Five Real Deal Steel, ’56 Chevy Door There’s no reason to deal with 60-year-old, rusted and dented sheet metal when you’re restoring a ’56 Chevy. This is especially true now that Real Deal Steel offers new doors for the middle Tri-Five! Each door is made from 18-gauge steel (the same used originally) yet provides extra stiffness. The assembly includes inner and outer panels and features all of the correct mounting points, including the Bel Air side trim mounting holes and door lock. For convertibles, the vent post is included, which requires minor welding but fits perfect. The new doors are available for two door Bel Air hardtops and convertibles. Real Deal Steel assembles all of their reproduction bodies and components in their Sanford, Florida, facility and utilizes water-cooled spot welders for a solid structure. For Tri-Five Chevy fans, they can supply just about everything you’ll ever need to finish your body work. realdealsteel.com 407.585.1957
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Endurance that excels Lunati, Voodoo Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms These aluminum roller rocker arms are the product of extensive testing, including special deflection and bend tests along with high-rpm simulations. Voodoo Roller Rockers feature unmatched attention to detail with high-quality aircraft-grade aluminum bodies, extra-large trunnions, and bearings which allow these rockers to outperform competitors in both power increases and durability. Proven to endure more than 100,000 miles of elevated engine speeds, the rockers are perfect for any enthusiast looking for a replacement rocker arm that will far exceed the quality of their OEM units, as well as competitor versions. They are available for a wide variety of popular applications. lunatipower.com 662.892.1500
Sponsored by
Independence for rear ends Art Morrison, Multilink IRS Art Morrison Enterprises is now offering a revolutionary Independent Rear Suspension package for all of their chassis, subframes, and retrofit applications. The carefully engineered cradle design of the AME Multilink-IRS allows it to be easily installed into unibody and existing chassis projects by welding four brackets to the frame to secure the IRS. With four different track widths available (from 55.5 to 61.5 inches) the IRS is available for everything from early Mustangs to mid-60’s Cadillac's. The low profile design allows for an under-the-stock-floor loca-
tion on most of the vehicles while the suspension cradle provides an extra level of noise and vibration dampening. The IRS utilizes a Dana 60 ring and pinion gear assembly along with custom drive axles making the AME IRS capable of handling the abuse of 1,800+ horsepower engines! The unique design of the AME’s IRS produces a significant increase in both comfort and performance over solid axle designs. artmorrison.com 800.929.7188
A Higher Level Of Transmission Quality & Performance Street Rodder Transmission Packages™ Lots of companies offer transmission packages, but none utilize the same standards for quality, performance and durability as TCI®. With over 45 years experience, TCI® includes a group of skilled craftsmen who build the industry’s best transmissions using superior internal components, the latest engineering advancements and modern, computerized testing equipment. features customized shift characteristics designed for street rods
• TCI® performance transmission packages include torque converter, trans cooler, dipstick & three gallons of Max Shift™ ATF
• Each TCI® component is Triple Tested for quality control assurance & backed by the best drivetrain tech support in the industry
Have A Unique Application?
Give us a call. TCI® will custom design & build the exact drivetrain package for your vehicle & usage.
Part #
Popular Transmission Applications
GM 311038P1
TH350 Street Rodder™ Package
371038P1
700R4 Street Rodder™ Package
371016P1
4L60E Street Rodder™ Package For LS Engines
271600P2
6x Six Speed™ Transmission Package For GM Engines
Ford 511638P1
C4 Pan Fill Street Rodder™ Package
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TOOLS ACCESSORIES STUFF
PARTS STORE Running board accents McMillan Rod & Custom, Stainless Steel Running Board Kit Running boards are an important aesthetic to many street rods, and McMillan Rod & Custom can help you add a little sparkle with their new Running Board Trim Kit. Their Standard Universal Kit comes with four pieces of polished stainless steel, two 42-inch lengths and two 36-inch lengths. Each piece is crafted from durable 304 stainless steel and is polished to a high luster. To ease installation, three studs are installed, allowing the trim to be securely fastened in place. The trim pieces are available in either 1/2- or 5/8-inch widths, and you can select either a bullet-pointed or rounded end. If you need a set made to your own specifications, the crew at McMillan is ready to help — give them a call. mcmillanrodandcustom.com 715.387.6847
Optimized for muscle Crane Cams, Muscle Car Replica Cams Crane Cams offers precision blueprinted camshafts for ‘50s, ‘60s, and ‘70s classic and muscle car applications. They are replicas of popular factory high-performance profiles and meet OEM specs for lift and duration, yet the lobe profiles have been optimized for maximum performance. Flat tappet grinds are available from the most popular OEM hydraulic and solid lifter versions. cranecams.com 866.388.5120
It doesn’t have to be difficult Powerhouse Products, GM LS OEM Rocker Arm Trunnion Upgrade Tool This tool simplifies the trunnion upgrade process and it is compatible with all stock LS rocker geometry. It can be used with an arbor press, bench vise, and C-clamp, making it the most versatile option on the market for upgrading stock LS rockers. It features a precision-machined, cylindrical steel construction that is plated for corrosion resistance to increase tool life. The tool also comes with a centering die to ensure consistent bearing placement and includes an embedded magnet for one-handed assembly. Powerhouse engineers have designed the tool to allow an LS rocker trunnion upgrade in less than 30 minutes. A complete kit featuring the popular COMP Cams LS Trunnion Upgrade Kit and this trunnion upgrade tool is also available. powerhouseproducts.com 800.872.7223
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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
Cruising in the afterlife Vern Tardel, Custom Urns We (hopefully) have a lot more miles behind the wheel of our favorite rod to enjoy cruising with our families and friends, but when it’s time to go, well, it’s time to go! When the inevitable finally comes, you can be ready to cruise in style for eternity with one of Vern Tardel’s new custom urns. Yes, you read that correctly: a custom urn. But this is not just any urn mind you — this is something any street rodder would be happy to land in after their motor stalls for a final time. This classic hot rod sculpture of a land speed racing roadster sits atop an urn as a memorial to celebrate a life in the world of hot rodding and racing. It was inspired by a local group of hot rodders, who saw the need for a meaningful way to pay tribute to great friends. The urn’s elegant design was conceived by Vern Tardel with the skilled help of Star Wars movie-industry model maker Charlie Bailey. It measures 12x9x4 inches and has a black satin finish. If you’re going to be resting on the mantel, it should be in something cool! verntardel.com
Sponsored by
Turning a Goat ididit, Pontiac A-Body Column You can train your Goat, Tempest, or LeMans to turn smooth and even be more comfortable with a new retrofit column from ididit. The all-new column is manufactured in Michigan and will bolt right to the factory mounts, updating your 50-year-old unit. You’ll receive canceling turn signals, four-way flashers, and for comfy cruising, an eight-position tilt. Models are available with column or floor shifting. Ididit will provide an installation kit with a direct plug-in wiring harness, shaft, U-joint, and rag joint – everything you need for an install. For those of you with ’69-’72 Pontiacs, they also offer an ignition and relay pack! Columns are available in steel for painting, chrome, black powder-coated, and polished or brushed aluminum. Need more options? How about cruise control or Touch-N-Go keyless ignition? ididit can do it — so can you! ididit.com 517.424.0577
EZ-EFI EIGHT STACK INDUCTION SYSTEMS ®
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Bel Air A big-block, bubble-top rumbler WORDS & PHOTOS: Todd Ryden
TO SEE MORE, SEARCH “BEL AIR BUBBLE” @ StreetRodLife.com
G
rowing up in California has its advantages. In fact, we can’t think of any real negatives about growing up through the 1960s and 1970s in the greater Los Angeles area, especially if you were into cars. 60
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Mel Vaughan is one of these lucky guys that has been around rust-free hot rods all his life. His first car was a ’55 Chevy, and the first thing he did was heat up the springs to achieve a better stance (no one cared about ride quality at 16).
This initial act of customizing didn’t sit well with his father, and he promptly took the keys away from young Mel for a short time. Since those early days, Mel has gone through a number of street rods
The perfect stance is attained courtesy RideTech, with their suspension system complemented with Shock Waves at each corner.
and cool rides including tri-fives and Corvettes. Currently, there’s a ’34 three-window coupe in his garage, as well as a ’56 Ford pickup for his wife Susan (she wanted a stock one, but Mel just can’t do stock). One car he always
wanted was a ’62 Bel Air, and it took him quite a while to get one. The Impala was the top level offered in 1962 and received a flatter, more squared-off roof compared to the previous years. Chevy, however, retained the
big bubble roof of the ’61 on the mid-level Bel Air coupe model. There also was the low car on the totem pole, the Biscayne, which sported a post separating the front and rear side glass. In 1962, people didn’t want to have a car with the same roof line as previous models, and the Bel Air just wasn’t a popular choice — only a few thousand were sold. Back to the story at hand, Mel had been looking for a ’62 Bel Air for quite a while, and the irony is this California hot rodder had to go to Wisconsin to find one! Surprisingly, the car was in pretty good shape, requiring only a couple of patch panels and a touch of floor work. The project got started at the tail end of 2006 and he had it at the Grand National Roadster Show in 2009, where it placed second in its class. Bob’s Customs and Rods handled the body work and incredible paint that changes with the day. The Bel Air is covered in a black base with a lavender pearl clear coat. Beneath the body line, the same process was followed, but with silver. Then, if you look closely, you can see an accent of lavender pearl that rides along the ‘62’s angled body line. In evening light, the car looks black, but when the sun strikes, all three shades sparkle through. The interior is appointed with the original dash, and the cluster was reworked by United Speedometer. A set of marine-style gauges to monitor the drivetrain were added in the factory locations just above the steering column. STREETRODLIFE.COM
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When it’s time to get rowdy, Mel simply flips a switch to open the headers.
Mel didn’t skimp when it came to cubic inches or polished parts! The 502c.i. big block is fed by a Street & Performance EFI system with fire courtesy of MSD. Edelbrock aluminum heads were added, and the custom headers were built by Buxton Motorsports. The combination puts a conservative 413 horses to the rear wheels.
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The bucket seats were donated by a ’64 Impala SS, thus their perfect fit and look in the ’62. Bob’s Customs also finished the interior with smooth, comfortable leather accented with the raised insets of ostrich. Of course, none of this body and interior work was completed until the entire car was stripped down. The X-frame chassis was completely welded and strengthened before being fit with a RideTech front clip by the team at Buxton Motorsports.
From the rear, it’s easy to tell why the Bel Air quickly earned the Bubble Top moniker. Rear seat passengers would get toasty red necks on long summer drives.
The exterior color combination was tastefully brought inside with custom seats and door panels covered with leather and textured ostrich. The custom center console carries the climate controls, cup holders, and the shifter connected to a Richmond 5-speed.
The backside was also treated to RideTech components, including adjustable ShockWaves at each corner. A Currie rear end is stuffed with 2.5:1 gears. The highway gears work in tandem with a Richmond 5-speed transmission to keep the rpm low and fun factor high. Adding to that equation is an extremely polished and detailed 502c.i. big-block — no LS in this cruiser! The crate motor received even more power with a set of Edelbrock Performer STREETRODLIFE.COM
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The Bel Air shared the two-per-side styling of the brake/turn lamps with the bottom tier Biscayne. The Impala sported six total. LED lamp assemblies provide a much brighter signal. The stainless down the side of the body is also Bel Air specific.
heads and an EFI system from Street and Performance. Air conditioning, power steering, and the charging system all are run through a Billet Specialties Tru Trac system. The Bel Air build wrapped up in 2009, and Mel and Susan have been cruising the bubble all over southern California ever since. Mel retired not too long ago and now has the time he’s always wanted to enjoy his cars. The ’62 delivers it all: power, handling and stopping performance, luxury leather interior with air conditioning, and a rocking stereo. Find one you want, build it, and drive it! SRL
Mel didn’t mess around with his cruising tunes. He chose a Pioneer system with two Tred power amps. The trunk is just as detailed as the interior and rest of the Chevy.
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Front brakes are off a ’95 Camaro, while rears came from a ’94 Ford van. Wheels are 18-inch Intros.
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SHIFT
PINPOINT
Setting governor shift points for a GM automatic trans
WORDS & PHOTOS: Jeff Smith
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Our goal for this project was to modify the governor on our TH-350 to raise the upshift rpm for both the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts at WOT. All you have to do is create the correct combination of weights and springs to make that happen.
T
he whole point of having an automatic transmission is that your trans should shift, with both hands on the wheel, exactly at the rpm you desire, in all forward gears. That includes part throttle and wide-open throttle (WOT). Unfortunately, if you own a TH350, TH400, 200-4R, or the original 700-R4, these transmissions rarely do your bidding. Sure, you can yank on the shifter handle manually, but you shouldn’t have to do that. That’s the beauty of the latest electronically-controlled automatics like the 4L60E, 4L80E, and 6L80E gearboxes. Those transmissions can be easily tuned with software and the stroke of a laptop keyboard. But this doesn’t mean you can’t make those older transmissions work the way you want. We just have to exert a little more mechanical control. Let’s start with a short examination of how shift points are set for these older transmissions. We’ll use the most common GM trans, the TH-350, for this story, but the effort is exactly the same on other governor-controlled transmissions. Starting with part throttle upshifts, these older automatics are influenced by a combination of the speed of the governor unit and the amount of vacuum applied to the vacuum modulator valve. The governor is a speed-sensitive device driven by the transmission’s output shaft. As vehicle speed increases, it uses centrifugal weights and springs to increase hydraulic line pressure. The vacuum modulator valve employs engine vacuum to sense load. A light throttle opening with high engine vacuum reduces line pressure, while WOT produces near-zero manifold vacuum. Removing the vacuum allows spring pressure to move the modulator plunger and increases line pressure to near maximum. The kickdown linkage is critical because this is the indicator for WOT. The TH-400 operates only slightly differently in that it uses a 12-volt signal from the throttle linkage to indicate WOT, instead of a kickdown cable. In the case of the 200-4R and 700-R4, the vacuum modulator and the kick-down are replaced with a single throttle valve (TV) cable that performs both jobs, which is why its adjustment is ultra-important. If the TV cable is not set properly, line pressure will be abnormally low and it becomes very easy to burn up a set of clutches in an extremely short period of time. Returning to the older, vacuum-modulated transmissions, light acceleration
We pulled this TH-350 out from under the bench for better photos. This is the location of the governor cover. Push the clip off to the side, pry the cover off with a large screwdriver, and remove the governor. Some fluid might leak out, so have a drip pan ready.
1 2
This is the governor. The large weights that we will leave stock are on the outside (Arrow 1). The smaller weights and springs on the inside (Arrow 2) are what we will be changing.
offers very small increases to line pressure from the vacuum modulator. As vehicle speed increases, the governor spins faster, which eventually produces enough line pressure to exceed that produced by the modulator valve. This is what signals part-throttle shifts from First to Second and Second to Third. The governor is mounted on the driver side of the TH350 behind a cover near the back of the transmission. Removing the cover with a screwdriver or pry bar will reveal a gear-driven unit with two pairs of weights. The larger, outside set are the low-speed weights that determine
the shift points up to about 15 mph. We will leave these alone. The smaller, inboard weights and springs are what we will concentrate on. You can think of these pieces as functioning much like a centrifugal advance mechanism in a distributor. In this case, heavier inboard weights move more quickly than lighter weights, which lowers the WOT upshift. If we want to increase the WOT upshift rpm, this will require lighter weights. Both TCI and B&M offer inexpensive kits that can be used to tune the WOT upshifts for the TH-350, TH-400, and 700STREETRODLIFE.COM
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With the cover removed, the governor can be easily removed from the case. If you are laying on your back in the driveway, be sure to keep all dirt and foreign material out of the transmission. Dirt is a common cause of erratic automatic shift problems. This is the TCI Shift Point Adjustment Kit that can be used for the TH-350, TH-400, or the 700-R4 transmissions. There are six different weights, six springs, new hinge pins, and tiny C-clips. A new seal is also supplied.
We lined up the weights and springs with the heaviest (#1) on the left and the lightest (#6) on the right. In our accompanying weight chart, the last two pieces weigh the same but #6 is effectively lighter. The springs are also arranged in the same fashion, left to right, with purple as the heaviest and orange and red as the two lightest.
R4 transmissions. The 200-4R requires different parts. We will use the TCI kit for this discussion. It comes with six different weights and springs. Lighter weights will produce a delayed upshift. The weights affect the 1-2 shift, while the springs help determine the timing of the 2-3 shift. We decided to first experiment with the weights to establish the 1-2 upshift at the desired rpm. Once that was achieved, then we could try different springs to create the proper 2-3 upshift point. We started our test by first establishing a baseline. Several tests confirmed both the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts occurred at 4,200 rpm. Both of these were way too low as we’d like the shift point closer to 5,500 rpm. To begin, we removed the governor from the transmission and ensured it worked properly by watching the valve move inside the governor body as we pushed the weights in and out. The governor uses precise metering orifices, and even a tiny amount of dirt or grit can have serious effects, so make sure the governor is always clean. 68
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After disassembling the governor weights by cutting off the hinge pin ends and sliding them out, we laid the stock weights (far right) and springs alongside the new weights. For the first test, we retained the stock springs so we were only performing one change at a time.
The photos show how we cut the pivot pins and removed the small weights and springs. We have also listed the weight of each of the TCI weights. But that only tells part of the story. The shape of the weights also affects centrifugal action, with less mass at the farthest distance from its fulcrum acting like a lighter weight and raising the shift point. Conversely, more mass farther away from the pivot acts like a heavier weight. We combined the TCI #3 and #4 weights for our first attempt while retaining the stock springs. This way, we made just one change to make our evaluation a little easier. This one change raised the 1-2 shift from 4,200 to 5,200 rpm with a matching 5,200 rpm for the 2-3 shift. We were moving in the right direction. After two more attempts, we achieved a 1-2 shift point of 5,600 rpm with a change to the #4 and #5 weights, producing a result that, for us, was close enough since we were not trying to create the ultimate drag car. This was with the use of
Do not eliminate the kickdown linkage on a TH-350. This functions as the WOT trigger for the transmission. RaceTrans owner Jimmy Galante noticed a broken clip on our linkage, so he looped a small zip tie to maintain the mount position. For the record, a new cable is in our immediate future.
The TH-400 requires a 12-volt trigger to signal WOT. This greatly increases line pressure, which raises both shift firmness and shift rpm. There are a number of ways to make this connection. This example uses a nitrous microswitch mounted on a homemade bracket on a Holley carburetor to signal WOT.
the green springs that put the shift at the same 5,600 rpm for the 2-3 shift. Altogether, we tried four different combinations before idealizing the combination, which is roughly what you can expect when you begin your tuning process. We spread this tuning process over a couple of weekends to more carefully evaluate the changes — it certainly wasn’t difficult. The biggest challenge was the jack stand process of crawling under the car each time we wanted to make a change.
Part-throttle shift can also be tuned with the vacuum modulator. Most modulators feature a small screwdriver adjustment in the vacuum nipple that moves a plunger. Tightening the adjustment screw will raise the part-throttle shift points slightly.
For less than $70 and a few hours’ effort, we were able to customize our trans so the upshifts now occur at nearly the perfect rpm — automatically! SRL
TCI Kit Governor Weights
Sources: TCI, tciauto.com; B&M Performance Products, bmracing.com; RaceTrans, racetrans.com
Description TCI Governor Shift Point Kit B&M Governor Shift Kit Lokar kickdown cable mount kit TCI adj. vacuum modulator
I.D. #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6
Weight (grams) 15 13 11 7 6 6
Part Number
Source
Price
326500 20248 KD2350HTBLAC 350001
Summit Racing Summit Racing Summit Racing Summit Racing
$64.97 $73.02 $84.97 $14.97
If you c a n d r e a m I t. W e c a n b u I l d I t. If you’ve got a vision we can help make it a reality. ididit maintains a vast inventory of parts just waiting to be built into your one-of-a-kind custom column. Whatever you need, our talented builders can do it. No one else does custom better than ididit, period. Give us a call to see what we can build for you today! Proudly Made in
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EVENT COVERAGE
CHATTANOOGA CRUISE IN
A
few years ago, Coker Tire hosted an open house and cruise to give its local customers a peek inside the company’s 100-year-old facility. What started as a small gathering has now turned into the Chattanooga Cruise In, the Southeast’s largest one-day cruise in event, with 2,000 cars, trucks, and motorcycles on display throughout the downtown area. Coker Tire prepared for an even larger turnout than previous years by claiming more real estate for parking. Despite their best efforts, the event grounds were full by mid-morning, and cars continued to roll into town. The remaining car guys and gals improvised and found their own parking areas, eventually flooding the south side of town with rods of all shapes and sizes. While the event is open to makes and models of all ages, there was a huge turnout of street rods and customs, as well as classic trucks, gassers, drag cars, and everything in between. It was estimated 15,000 enthusiasts took to the streets to take in the one day event. The cruise in featured food vendors, parts for sale, and a new addition for 2016: a Hot Rodders of Tomorrow engine building competition. Twelve high school teams battled in a national qualifying event, in the midst of all the action. In addition to the incredible display of cars along the streets and parking lots, the doors of Coker Tire and Honest Charley were open to display all sorts of cool stuff, including Corky Coker’s museum. As you can see, it was a full day of hot rod fun, so put the Chattanooga Cruise In on your schedule for next year. SRL 70
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WORDS & PHOTOS: Tommy Lee Byrd
A car that commanded lots of attention at last year’s SEMA Show was this slammed ’56 Chevy affectionately known as “Boosted Bela”. While the body is covered in natural patina, the chassis, engine and interior are immaculate. Of course, the whitewall tires and steelies came from Coker Tire.
Bobby Fairbanks owns this beautifully simple ’32 Ford three-window coupe. The full-fendered Deuce is powered by a multi-carbed Flathead with Offenhauser heads.
With a straight axle, fenderwell headers, and radiused rear wheel openings, this ’57 Chevy is prime gasser material. Russ Grimes built the wicked two-door post in his home garage, and stuffed a carbureted LS engine under the hood for a modern twist.
Ricky Brown in his shop truck, and Chad Tompkins in his Model A sedan are seen here, inching through the crowd. These guys really know hot rods, and they’re not afraid to drive them! STREETRODLIFE.COM
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It wasn’t too long ago that four-door sedans were nothing more than parts cars for the more desirable two-door models. However, we’ve seen a huge swing in the market, and Matt Crum’s ’61 Impala more-door proves you can easily make a sedan cool with the right stance.
Randy Smelcer owns this Two-Lane Blacktop tribute car and rumbled into the Chattanooga Cruise In with a tunnel-ram-equipped big-block with fenderwell headers.
It doesn’t get more rowdy than this chopped and channeled Model A sedan with a whole bunch of big-block Chevy resting between the frame rails. Fat Firestone whitewall tires and Rocket wheels add to the car’s wild appearance.
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SEARCH “CHATTANOOGA CRUISE” @ StreetRodLife.com
If we had to give an award for the “Best in Show,” it would go to Kevin Gill’s Nailhead-powered Model A roadster. This car is flawlessly detailed, and it has an outstanding history in Chattanooga, dating back to the 1950s.
A stock Chevrolet body, engine, and interior had plenty of cool factor in 1959, and Asa Mulinix from LaFayette, Georgia, proved it by keeping his Bel Air in original condition, aside from a slammed stance and big-inch American five spokes.
HYDRAULIC ROLLER & FLAT TAPPET CONFIGURATIONS
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GETTING GROUNDED WORDS & PHOTOS: Tony Candela
How to properly ground your rod for the best electrical performance
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et’s start with the basics. Electrically speaking, ground is a point of commonality and nothing more. Since no automobile I’ve seen has a rod driven into the ground next to it, where is ground in your car? Ask 10 enthusiasts and they’ll immediately point to the negative battery terminal on their car. Are they correct? No. Let me explain. With the engine off, current flows from the battery through the accessory and then returns to the battery’s negative terminal. With the engine running — in a vehicle with a correctly functioning charging system — current flows from the alternator through the accessory and then returns to the case of the alternator. Since ground is a point of commonality, ground would be the point (the frame, the body, or both) at which the accessory, the battery, and the alternator are grounded. Keep in mind this applies to both positive and negative ground systems, although the specifics here will pertain to the latter. Author’s Note: Electron theory states that current travels in the reverse of what I’ve spelled out, but the net result is the same no matter which theory you subscribe to.
This is an exploded view of the proper way to execute a ground. Grounding via this method will ensure lifetime connections that won’t be problematic down the road.
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OEM grounding schemes It’s important to understand how the OEMs ground vehicles and how that impacts you modifying or building your street rod. Late-model engines are all the rage these days, and with the volume of electronics on these cars, grounding is paramount. Let’s review the specifics, starting with stock style battery negative cables. Type 1: The negative cable assembly, typically 4-AWG, connects to the cylinder head or engine block; in some cases it may be bolted to the alternator bracket. In addition, it has one or more smaller ground wires that connect to the body, wiring harness, or both. The larger cable is the return path for the starter and the alternator, while the smaller wire(s) are the return path for the accessories and often referred to as body grounds. Type 2: The negative cable assembly has a single large cable, also 4-AWG, and connects to the cylinder head or engine block at its end. Along its run, it also connects to the body. This single cable approach is the return path for the starter, alternator, and accessories. This type of negative battery cable assembly is most often found on import vehicles but can also be found on modern vehicles manufactured by the big three. In addition to the battery negative cable, you’ll typically see at least one ground strap. Depending on the particular vehicle, this ground strap may connect the body to the frame, the engine to the body, the engine to the frame, etc. Later-model vehicles with electronic fuel injection, aluminum radiators, or both, will have a plethora of grounding in comparison to classics. Next time you’re at the car show, look under the hood of a newer vehicle and see what I mean.
Although these two cables look different, they effectively do the very same thing. The upper cable, commonly seen on newer vehicles, has an eyelet crimped along its run to connect to the body for vehicle accessories. The lower cable, commonly seen on older vehicles, has an ancillary cable coming out of the battery clamp for the same reason. The eyelet at the end of either cable connects to the engine block and provides the return path for the starter and alternator.
ground point can break down; and rust, moisture, and high current demands can all add up to problems due to an increase of resistance in the circuit. Grounds break down over time for various reasons. Break down of the termination: Oxygen in the air causes copper cable and copper eyelets to oxidize. Water entering the termination and galvanic corrosion (corrosion between dissimilar metals) are other factors that can cause the
termination to break down. This all results in the resistance of the termination increasing as it breaks down from the inside out, which in turn causes heat which accelerates the process. Mechanical failures: The connection between the termination and the vehicle ground can deteriorate over time, caused by rust, heat, or simply a loose fastener that holds the ground in place. At some point, the resistance of a given ground can exceed the resistance of
Uni-body vs body on frame vehicles In a uni-body vehicle, ground is the body as there is no frame, only sub-frames. Some body-on-frame vehicles include the frame as part of the ground system, while others do not. This is important to understand as most vehicles with a chassis incorporate rubber bushings between the body and frame, which electrically isolates them from one another.
Faulty Grounds
Over time, grounds can be a source of various intermittent electrical problems. The wire termination can be compromised; the connection to the
Connecting multiple cables to the frame is really quite easy with a 1 1/4-long bolt. Three-eighths hardware is recommended for high current connections as shown. STREETRODLIFE.COM
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tin-plated eyelet and 5/16- or 3/8-inch bolt. Remember to use star washers to get a good bite on the frame. In addition, adding ground cables from the alternator housing and the battery negative terminal to the frame completes the return path.
Grounding a relocated battery
Photo courtesy Rob Hummel
Here’s how to correctly ground a battery when relocated to the rear of your vehicle. The upper cable (8-AWG) is tied to the body and provides the return path for the accessories to the battery. The lower cable (1/0 AWG) is tied to the frame and is the return path for the starter. Up front, another 1/0-AWG cable bolted between the block and frame completes the return path for the starter.
an alternative ground path. For example, let’s say the connection of the 4-AWG ground cable from the battery negative to the block breaks down over time. The starter may seek ground through the block to the cylinder head, through the cylinder head to the intake manifold, through the intake manifold to the carburetor, through the carburetor to the body through a braided steel throttle cable bolted to the firewall, through the body ground to the battery negative terminal. Something’s going to give at some point as the current required by the starter greatly exceeds the ampacity of the throttle cable and the body ground. Grounds are maintenance connections and should from time to time be checked for tightness and integrity. Better to do this when your vehicle is in your garage within walking distance of your tool box versus on the side of the road out of necessity. With the “negatives” of grounding covered, let’s review a few ways to properly setup and connect grounds on your street rod. Wiring your vehicle is not something to be hurried, especially when it comes to grounds. Take into consideration all of the electronics you plan to use and plan accordingly – you’ll be happy you did in the long run. Here are some of the grounding tips we’ve learned over the years. 76
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Grounding high current accessories We’re adding a lot of high current accessories to our rods these days, from electric fuel pumps to cooling fans, blower motors for AC, and even water pumps. When adding a fuel pump or electric fan(s), I recommend connecting the ground side of the device to the frame rails using a
When relocating the battery to the rear of the vehicle, the most often overlooked part of the installation is the body ground for the accessories. Connecting the negative terminal of the battery to the body preserves the return path between the battery and the accessories through the body. Typically use 8-AWG cable for this. For both uni-body and body on frame vehicles, it is recommended to use the frame rails for this return path. I'll ground the battery negative to the frame rail, then I'll ground the engine block to the frame rail on the same side of the vehicle with the same size cable used for the battery to frame ground. The size of the battery cable for both the positive and ground is a function of how much current the starter requires and the distance between the battery and starter.
Grounding with an aluminum radiator Putting an aluminum radiator in your street rod is a common upgrade for rods, but remember that aluminum is a very soft metal and electrolysis can manifest through the coolant if the vehicle is not
When installing a high output alternator of any kind, it’s equally important to upgrade its return path via the same size cable you use for its charge lead. In addition, the aftermarket offers many styles of battery clamps that can make connecting multiple cables to the battery terminals simple, easy, and cosmetically very appealing.
Before drilling into the frame, clean the metal of paint and primer (or as here, powder coating). Drill and tap a hole in the frame for a 5/16- or 3/8-inch bolt.
Art of grounding properly Using a ground distribution block as a junction point for multiple accessory grounds is effective and tidy, especially in a vehicle with a fiberglass body. The 8-AWG cable at the left of the block connects solidly to the frame of this Willys, providing more than enough current for the accessories tied to this block.
grounded properly. This can result in the radiator being eroded from the inside out as it seeks its way to ground. Before installing that high-dollar aluminum radiator, be sure to connect grounds from the core support to the frame rail, as well as grounding the engine or bell housing to the frame. These all need to be tied into a quality battery terminal to frame rail ground path (use 8-AWG wire and proper hardware). Also, run an 8-gauge ground wire from the rear end to the frame or body. The reasoning is electrolysis can be created through the friction of the ring and pinion gears, creating an AC current which could work its way through the drivetrain and into the coolant.
Grounding with a high output alternator I consider a high output alternator any alternator that is larger than the one the factory installed. Use 8-AWG cable for alternators making up to 90A, 4-AWG cable for alternators making up to 150A, 2-AWG cable for alternators making up to 225A, and 1/0-AWG cable for alternators making up to 300A. Run cables to the battery and another from the alternator housing to the frame rail.
Grounding a high output ignition system Any high performance ignition system requires proper grounding for obvious reasons. This is simple: connect both cylinder heads together with a ground
cable (or strap) and then continue with a cable from one cylinder head to the frame rail. Connect the battery negative to the frame rail on the same side of the vehicle. Think about it; the spark jumps the plug gap to get to ground through the plug threads and cylinder head! Best to ground the heads right to the chassis.
Grounding with EFI If you’re installing an aftermarket electronic fuel injection system, then you should absolutely follow the grounding instructions outlined in the installation manual. Note that most manufacturers are VERY specific. In most cases, the main ground lead of the ECU should be connected right to the battery negative terminal. The battery is the single best filter in your vehicle. Grounding the ECU at the battery directly makes the best use of this filter in an effort to reduce noise transmitted to the ECU which can cause issues. This often means extending the ground and power leads when installing such a system in a vehicle with relocated battery.
Grounding fiberglass vehicles Obviously, you won’t be grounding accessories to the body of a fiberglass vehicle! I’ve always used the frame for the return path for everything — the charging system, accessories, etc... Under hood, I’ll ground all accessories to the frame no different than I would to the body of a steel bodied vehicle. The only difference being that all
Generally speaking, making solid low resistance ground connections that will stand the test of time is quite easy. Here are eight great tips. 1. Invest in the correct tools to make proper electrical terminations. 2. Use tin-plated ring terminals and cable eyelets whenever possible. 3. Insulate all terminations with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. 4. Prepare the vehicle surface properly by removing paint and primer to ensure a low resistance connection between ring terminals / cable eyelets and the metal. 5. Protect bare metal from rusting with white lithium grease. 6. Use internal/external star washers between the ring terminal / eyelet and the metal to provide a good bite into the metal and the underside of the eyelet. 7. Use a lock washer and flat washer under the head of the bolt or sheet metal screw to keep it from backing out over time. 8. Ensure all hardware that you use is plated.
grounds to the frame should be drilled and tapped for the best connection. It’s simple to install ground distribution points near electronic components behind the dash and in the rear of the vehicle to facilitate ground leads for lighting and accessories. These common points should be connected to the frame via 8-AWG or 4-AWG cables depending on the total current needs. Be sure to ground high current or noisy accessories (like ignition boxes, fuel pumps, fans, lighting, etc.) and noise sensitive components separately to isolate them from one another as much as possible. SRL STREETRODLIFE.COM
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The
WORDS: Brandon Flannery PHOTOS: Mike Harrington
A restoration expert builds his own with straight axle fun!
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ld Corvettes are expensive to build, and few people would know that better than Rex Marshall of West Bountiful, Utah. He’s an active member of the National Corvette Restorers Society who has put plenty of Corvettes back into showroom condition, and he’s been at it for years. His first car was a 1960 “fuelie” purchased when he was 15 and refurbished by the time he got his license at 16. 78
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“We worked hard to put it back together all stock, right down to the factory wheels and white walls.” he says. “This was in 1975, and it was the first early Corvette that I’d ever seen in person without mag wheels. Being stock really made it stand out.” While he may have driven a stock car, he loved the look of straight axle gassers and street machines. “I’ve always thought that was the most wicked looking stance
ever conceived,” he says. He’s built four straight axle cars over the years, and calls this Corvette his favorite. Corvettes are coveted by collectors, and he decided to see if he could build a cool one on a budget. “After doing perfect numbers-matching builds, I wanted to relax and have a little fun,” he says. “This was a good change of pace for me.” The car was sourced from an ad in
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Rex built his own chassis from 2x4 rectangular tubing. The 120 lightening holes save a whopping 12 pounds. STREETRODLIFE.COM
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the local paper. It was a bare shell from the firewall back, with no front clip and a very rusty frame. He went down to his local metal yard, picked up some 2x4 rect-
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angular tubing and built his own chassis. For that vintage look, he used a friend’s plasma cutter and carved out 120 lightening holes.
“For fun, I put all of the cutouts on a scale and discovered I saved a whole 12 pounds,” he says with a laugh. “But, it looks really cool.” He had his buddy, Deacon Bakker from Lakeside Fabrication, build a set of ladder bars for the rear, which he then had chromed. They helped locate a slightly narrowed 10-bolt posi rear with 3.70 gears and coilovers from Summit Racing. Rex says he walked past a pair of old American five-spokes at a swap meet and contemplated their $200 price tag, knowing that new ones were running around $140 each. Finally deciding that having original vintage wheels would be okay at that “slightly discounted” price, he went back to purchase them. Upon giving the guy the money, the seller said he would get the other two out of his truck. Score! A set of Hurst cheater slicks were chosen to pull off the early competition look. With a budget build in mind, he looked through his stash of parts for a suitable “temporary engine,” and ran across a small-block standing on its end. It was missing the heads, but the steam
doing perfect numbers-matching builds, I “After wanted to relax and have a little fun.This was a good change of pace for me. ”
holes let him know it was a 400, and the flat top pistons looked promising. It was pulled out and gone through with a set of rings and bearings. He had Rob Martin rebuild and port a set of old school 2.02 “fueler” heads and grabbed a hydraulic “mystery cam” off the parts shelf. For induction, he set a Holley 750 double-pumper on an Edelbrock RPM intake and capped everything with a chrome air cleaner and a good-looking set of 327 valve covers. He fabbed up his own set of fender well headers using a Speedway kit, paying special attention to their flow with the body, while letting them peek out just a little. The transmission is a Borg Warner T5. His “temporary engine” ended up working out so well that it’s stayed in the car. He ran a 12.14 at 115.19 at Rocky Mountain Raceway. Using NHRA’s conversion factor for the track’s 4300 ft. elevation, that’s an 11.61 at 119.9 at sea level. After the chassis and running gear were sorted out, attention was turned to the body shell. Rex finessed the rear wheel opening at the bottom to clear the slicks and left off the side trim. He reconstructed the front end with used origiSTREETRODLIFE.COM
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Rex saved a ton of money by not buying original seats. He actually made his own by cutting down and sculpting the cushions of a rear bench seat and then fabricating the frames. Jason Bessie of D&M Upholstery then covered everything in a period-correct diamond tuck pattern.
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nal parts and hopped on eBay to find his hood scoop. “I had a Corvette in high school that had a 1970 Mercury Cougar Eliminator hood scoop,” he says. “I always liked the way it fit between the factory hood bulges and knew I wanted to have one for this car.” Though the striking paint didn’t turn out exactly as he planned, the car was too far along to change anything. Rex wanted a candy orange metal flake, but after not getting the right hue of flake over different bases, he settled upon Orange Crush from a Ford Escape. We dig it. A pair of 1957 Corvette seats do not come cheap … at all. To work around this, Rex simply made his own. He cut down the cushions of the rear seat of a ’94 Pontiac Grand Am into four pieces for buckets and built his own frames. Jason Bessie at D&M Upholstery in Bountiful, Utah, expertly trimmed the seats and interior panels in a period-correct diamond tuck. Other period touches include a Covico steering wheel on a shortened column, Stewart Warner gauges, three pedals and a Hurst shifter. Readers might be impressed to learn this Vette was built in 2006. After a decade of use, it’s still one of his favorite cars. While early Corvettes aren’t exactly cheap, as stated, Rex was able to keep costs down by buying “driver quality” used parts. “Corvette restorers want mint or NOS parts,” he says. “Those parts that aren’t mint are almost unwanted, and priced accordingly. None of the trim on this car is perfect, but it looks good.” After all these years, Rex has found himself standing out in a sea of Corvettes yet again, only this time HE has the mag wheels and everyone else is running factory caps and whitewalls. Funny how things work out, isn’t it? SRL
After years of restoring Corvettes to concours-level, numbers matching, correct overspray type finishes, building his own gasser style '57 proved to be a lot of fun. And even more fun driving it!
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WORDS & PHOTOS: Todd Ryden
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This ’63 Dodge was last inspected in 1986 and had tags from ’89. The guy we bought it from told us that it turned over, but we had no idea what to expect out of the stock 318.
We started by pulling and inspecting the spark plugs. A few were rather dark, but there were no signs that would alert us to mechanical issues. We blasted them clean and reinstalled them to fire up the engine.
E
veryone wants to find a car or truck that’s been stashed away in a forgotten garage or hidden behind tractors and stacks of hay inside a dilapidating barn. Websites such as eBay Motors, Bring a Trailer, and even your local Craigslist are chock full of “barn finds,” which has changed the meaning of the phrase into more of a classification. Not too long ago, we picked up a “barn find” that was apparently found in an airplane storage hanger, or at least
that’s what the eBay seller told us. He didn’t really know much about this ’63 330 Dodge other than what the car was and that he had a title. He was obviously flipping the car to make a buck. The bonus in our situation is the car was in our general region; we were able to look at it before making a bid on it. (Also, it was a family member from another state who wanted the car, so we got the fun of checking the old Mopar out without using our own money.) Fast forward to a winning bid and towing the 330 to our shop where it sat for a few more months. Finally, curiosity got the better of us, as did the idea of getting the tan beast to run so it could
easily be moved in and out. That is, if it would start. We really had no clue as to when this thing last ran. Not only that, but why was the car just parked? Did it have a mechanical issue to start with? Visually, everything looked in place, and there were no signs of any work being done under the hood. In fact, the factory 318 and engine compartment appeared untouched and original. The first thing we did was put a wrench on the crank pulley bolt to see if the engine actually did turn over, which it did. We only moved it a few degrees since there was no oil anywhere in the passages or valve train. We decided to pull the STREETRODLIFE.COM
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Someone at sometime had added a set of points under the distributor cap.
We were pleasantly surprised to see actual antifreeze in the radiator! The oil didn’t look completely black and sloggy either. Note the original Mopar note about rust inhibitor embossed in the radiator tank. It’s almost like the car was parked as a driver, then never touched for a couple decades.
We also disconnected the fuel line from the carb and routed a hose into a gas can. If the pump and lines were up to it, we didn’t want a chance of fuel flooding through the carb while we cranked for a compression test. Plus, it would get some of that old gas pumped out of the tank.
Before cranking the engine over, we sprayed some penetrating oil in the cylinders to ensure a little lubrication during the initial cranking.
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We did a compression check on each cylinder, and the good news continued. Each cylinder cranked over 100 psi with consistent values across the board. From what we could tell, there weren’t any major engine issues to keep this thing from starting!
plugs and spray a little lube in each cylinder, then while we were that far, might as well do a compression check. We dropped a battery in place and cautiously connected the battery terminals. No sparks, no smoke, and no fire. Just for kicks, we pulled the light switch out and were pleased to see the one headlight turn on, as well as the dash lights. Again, no smoke, no fire. We then tickled the starter and were again surprised to hear the familiar whirl of a Mopar starter engage and crank over the engine. Each cylinder tested good for compression, with all eight being within 10 to 15 percent of each other! As an added benefit, we were getting fuel to the engine (we disconnected the fuel line from the carb earlier). A quick inspection under the distributor cap found the breaker points were functioning, and a spark jumped from the coil wire to ground. Spark, fuel, and compression — this old thing should start! All of the plugs were reinstalled and capped with their brittle plug wires. The fuel line was reconnected to the carb, which was sprayed off with some carb clean, then we poured a couple gallons of fresh fuel into the tank. A fire extinguisher was located nearby, and we surveyed the engine compartment one last time. Then we cranked. Nothing but the whirling uniqueness of a Dodge starter. A capful of fresh fuel was added to the carb, and the engine chugged a bit trying to wake up, like it needed one more cup of coffee. So we poured a couple more caps of fuel in and repeated the chugging and struggle to awake. We were surprised the carb wasn’t leaking fuel all over the place, so we kept at it. All of a sudden, the chugging turned to running and the 318 was alive and filling the shop with the stench of old fuel and crusty exhaust. We anxiously watched over the awakened Mopar, keeping an eye out for coolant, oil, or fuel to spray out at any time. As more time passed, so eased our concerns. The temperature gauge slowly moved, and the oil indicator lamp never lit up, so we assume there was good enough oil pressure. Eventually we dropped into the frayed bench seat and slowly pushed the clutch pedal in, expecting to feel and hear grinding. We grabbed the column shift and pulled it down into first with no resistance, same with gear two and into three. The trans slid into reverse and as we let up on the clutch, the old Dodge tried to move under its own power.
When we connected the battery, we couldn’t resist trying the lights. Imagine our surprise when the dash lights filled up the gauges and the dome light actually came on! Externally, the taillamps and even the license plate light worked.
We were pretty pleased once we turned the key off. The car hadn’t been started in years, yet here it was idling smooth and pumping along like we drove it to the shop. There was no fuel pouring out of the old carb, no radiator hoses bulging up to blow, no oil pouring out. We hit the key again, and the car cranked right back up and settled into an idle.
All of a sudden, we were feeling pretty good about the old 330. The car is far from road worthy, needing all the hoses, a belt, carb rebuild, not to mention the tires and brakes, but the fact that it can be pulled in and out and loaded on a trailer were a game changer for us. We have to admit, we got pretty lucky. Now to make plans for phase two. SRL
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SHOP TOUR
HEIDTS AUTOMOTIVE
WORDS & PHOTOS: Brandon Flannery
Heidts moved into their new facility three years ago. It boasts 50,000 sq.ft., and offer instant inventory fulfillment and 24–48 hour shipping on all orders.
I
t had been a while since our last visit to Heidts. In fact, they had moved. Three years ago they upgraded their digs to a spacious 50,000 sq.ft. facility in a Lake Zurich, Illinois, industrial park. Dreams do come true, and they finally have enough room to have the open showroom lobby they’ve always wanted. Since many of their customers are “hands-on” kind of people and their suspension products go underneath the car, having them out on display offers a better experience for both customers and their sales techs. As always, they’re on the cutting edge of trends with top-quality new products like a bolt-in IRS tailored specifically for older Mustangs and ’82–’92 Camaros and Firebirds. Their line of truck parts has expanded into heavy-duty assemblies strong enough for towing and full frames for ’47–’54 Chevy models. They make everything they offer inhouse, including their shock absorbers. This allows them to maintain instant inventory fulfillment when demand increases, and they ship most orders within 24 hours of placement. They also do all of their own polishing in-house and operate two CNC lathes, a turret lathe, and 12 welding stations. Their R&D area was packed with cars, and as a rule when developing new products, they obtain three different cars to check for variances and in-run changes to make sure they all fit the first time. They’ve come a long way since Gary Heidt began in his ga88
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The new building offers ample room for displays. Many of their customers are “hands-on” kinda guys who like to see what they are purchasing, and these are a tremendous help.
rage in 1985, and current CEO Wallace Leyshon has them on the right track to continue their legacy of turning out quality American products. While they have been focusing on the exploding truck and muscle car markets, we were assured they are gearing up to throw some more new cool products into the street and hot rod market, so keep your eyes open for that. Until then, enjoy the tour! SRL
Their latest product is a coilover shock for 1982–’92 Camaro and Firebirds. Everything but the O-rings is made in-house and then dyno tested.
Heidts sells around 6,000 shocks a year, and each one has a serial number and a date code for future reference and quality tracking. They also dyno test them using this machine.
While many of the machines in the “Mill Farm” may be older, each one is dedicated to a specific task. The lack of setup time speeds up production.
Their new tri-five chassis features heliarc-welded frame rails. These welds are extremely smooth and do not require cleaning. It’s available with a four-link rear or their PRO-G IRS.
Heidts takes great pride in keeping their products as native as possible. They even have their spindles cast here in the US and then machine them in-house.
Their iconic cast third-member chunk is patented and a key component of their Superide IRS. They are also the third largest Wilwood distributor, right behind Jegs and Summit.
Also newly released is their bolt-in ’67–’87 Chevy truck four-link, made from heavy 7-gauge metal and 1-inch Heim joints. It’s fully height adjustable, including the panhard bar and shock locations. Their R&D included towing race cars and campers. All of their fabricated third member housings are made in house. STREETRODLIFE.COM
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Heidts purchased this Camaro for $5000, and they did an LS swap and added $10,000 worth of suspension upgrades creating a very fun car for under $25,000.
While the ’82–’92 Camaros are already fun to drive, Heidts ramps it up a notch with their newly-developed PRO-G IRS bolt-in kit.
Whenever they develop products for a new model run, like these Camaros, they acquire three vehicles to get a feel for variations. In this case, they got a car from both ends of the 1982–’92 model year run, and a Pontiac Firebird, just to see how things moved around over the decade of production.
Though doing some light work in the photo, this tube bender packs 30hp and bends frame rails without kinking.
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Using the latest equipment, like this Faro Arm 3D scanner and probe, speeds up product development. This allows them to quickly and accurately create a surface map in a digital format. Here they are getting the factory mounting points for a shock top faster than having someone measure and recreate it. This eliminates the room for error, and captures things as fine as stamped writing and even stamping marks.
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Dennis Overholser If you’ve ever attended a seminar during a national event car show or talked with manufacturers during an event or cruise, chances are you’ve talked with our this issue’s Street Rod Lifer. Dennis Overholser grew up on a farm in the sticks of Indiana. Like a typical kid growing up on a farm, Dennis helped wherever help was needed, from planting and harvesting crops to raising animals and, of course, fixing anything that happened to break. Not long after learning to drive in a ’49 Chrysler with a Fluid Drive transmission, he bought his first project car, a ’33 Ford three-window coupe, sans the driveline. A summer job of unloading bagged fertilizer brought enough money to source a 1953 Flathead, and over the winter, Dennis got his first hot rod running and on the road before graduating in 1965. Dennis joined the Airforce in 1966, where he said they made a real mechanic out of him over the next three years. While serving, he made plans on building a ’23 T, picking up parts and plans along the way. Once discharged, the rod was built. Tired of the Indiana weather and looking for better job opportunities, Dennis settled in Ft. Worth, Texas, and continued building rods. He started driving semis over the road, and while at home, he studied electronics and still found time to build cars — a lot of them. We’re talking a ’40 Buick Special, a ’29 sedan, a ’30 coupe, ’39 Chevy, and more. What he learned while building all these street rods is they all needed wiring to be safe, fun, and reliable. With that, he put pen to paper, terminal to wire, and fuse panels together to form an all-new wiring harness built for hot rods. He sold the first one at at the Pate swap meet in Ft. Worth, and in 1991, named his new company Painless Wiring. Twenty-five years later, the company is still going strong, and so is Dennis. He’s actually retired from the day-to-day of the company but continues to work tradeshows, car shows, and other events for the company. Hot rodding has been, and continues to be, a major part of Dennis’ life. He has written articles and books to help thousands with their street rod’s electrical system. He’s volunteered his time as a member of the Board of Directors for SEMA, headed the Hot Rod Industry Alliance, was an NSRA Safety inspector and state rep, and continues to be a passionate supporter of our hobby. Even though Dennis tells everyone he’s “semi-retired,” it’s tough to believe him. We see him at events all over the country — still works Power Tour and presents seminars. He recently finished a front engine dragster and is nearly complete with a ’66 Suburban tow vehicle. Maybe it’s more of a semi-semi-retirement for now. We’re happy to have Dennis Overholser as our Street Rod Lifer. Say hi to him when you see him at a show! SRL STREETRODLIFE.COM
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STREET ROD LIFE Vol. 2, No. 2
PRICE: FUNCTION: COOLNESS:
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A degree wheel is an essential part of proper camshaft installation. Making sure the cam is degreed ensures optimum performance and accurate timing. This thing couldn’t be easier to use. It simply bolts in place, either to the crank or balancer. Zero it out with the pointer at top dead center, and away you go. Brandon Flannery is a globe-trottin’ automotive photojournalist, content developer, and certified shop rat now living in Hernando, Mississippi, with a herd of projects and a daily-driven ’73 Satellite Sebring known as The Blue Goose.
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SCHEDULES EVENTS PLACES
HIT THE ROAD It’s a great time to be a street rodder! There have never been so many events, races, and avenues to attend . . . even as a spectator. Whether you’re into car shows, driving events, tours, or racing, there is something nearly every weekend. Here’s a few upcoming events to put on your calendar. If you have anything you want to tell us about — let us know at: tryden@xcelerationmedia.com
Sloan Museum Auto Fair The city of Flint, Michigan, has recently made headlines, but the Sloan Auto Fair adds a silver lining over the whole water ordeal. Remember, Flint used to be known as Buick City, and this twoday event brings out some of the best Buicks, rare concept cars from the museum collection, and a variety of vehicles from the region. June 25–26 Flint, Michigan
sloanautofair.com
Meltdown Drags Vintage racing for 1966 and earlier rods with an emphasis on diggers and gassers. In fact, the legendary Grove Boys Willys gasser (featured in our last issue) will be on hand to join the fray. July 15–17 Byron Dragway, Byron, Illinois
meltdowndrags.com
Power Tour
Somernites Cruise The historic town of Somerset, Kentucky, puts on a monthly event that draws more than 1,000 cars and trucks each fourth Saturday – rain or shine. Each show features a vehicle showcase, kids cruise zone, a fun run, and meet and greet. Xceleration Media is the national media partner, so don’t forget to pick up a magazine while you are there.
Street Machine Nationals The one that started it all — Du Quoin is where monster rear tires and huge blowers claimed the street! We’ll be there. Stop by and hang out.
streetmachinenationals.net June 24–26 Du Quoin, Illinois
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somernitescruise.com
June 24–25 Feature Corral: Camaro and Firebirds July 22–23 Feature Corral: Corvettes August 26–27 Feature Corral: Mustangs
It’s amazing just how big the Hot Rod Magazine Power Tour has become, and it’s something every rodder needs to be a part of at some time in their life. Is this your year? Go all in as a Long Hauler or simply take in a day or two of the fun.
hotrod.com June 11–17 June 11: L amar Dixon Expo Center Gonzales, Louisiana June 12: R oyal Purple Raceway Baytown, Texas June 13: C ircuit of the Americas Austin, Texas June 14: T raders Village Grand Prairie, Texas June 15: R emington Park Oklahoma City, Oklahoma June 16: K ansas Pavilion Wichita, Kansas June 17: K ansas Speedway Kansas City, Kansas
Not able to attend a show? Want to see which cars were at what events? Not a problem. Head over to StreetRodLife.com and check out the Events tab for coverage, pics, and more.
Somernites Cruise Volunteers
Up to 60 volunteers dedicate their time to help put on the monthly series of Somernites Cruises. Many have been helping for more than 10 years.
W
hile not technically a car club, the volunteer group of rodders that put on the monthly summer cruise series in Somerset, Kentucky, fits the bill. They’re dedicated to their event, they volunteer their time to their community and hobby, and they enjoy sharing the hobby that is street rodding. Somerset, Kentucky, is recognized by state legislature as “The Car Cruise Capital of Kentucky” and is home to Somernites Cruise, the largest monthly classic car show in the state. The event draws in an average of 1,200 cars to the downtown area each fourth Saturday of the month from April to October. Somernites is always free to participants and spectators and offers a fun, family-oriented atmosphere in the historic downtown area. There are many free activities for the entire family on both Friday and Saturday, in addition to live music, great food, and hundreds of rods. “We’ve got a dedicated group of about 60 volunteers,” says the event’s executive director, Keith Floyd. “Most of the team
has been helping for over 10 years, and a few have been there from the start.” Keith would know as he has been involved since the first show held in 2001, where they had 275 cars. Since, he has served two terms as President, one as VP and three as Secretary of Treasury. “It’s amazing what it does for the community,” Keith adds. Each show weekend has grown to include a Friday Night Thunder cruise followed by the downtown Show and Shine on Saturday from 1-7 p.m. It concludes as cruisers take over US 27 for an evening of cruising. Even if this group of 60 volunteers and hot rodders isn’t considered a club, they certainly set a standard that other groups and clubs should strive to reach. We had a great time at their April event and look forward to going back. Be sure to check out the schedule and featured rods at their website: somernitescruise.com. We’ll see you there. SRL
somernitescruise.com
Current Executive Director Keith Floyd cruises this ’70 Cutlass convertible. He was also part of the first event held in 2001.
This Fastback Mustang is owned by volunteer Debra Whitter.
Know a club you’d like to see featured? Shoot us an email at tryden@xcelerationmedia.com.
Tony Hahn cruises this healthy Maverick to each Somernites Cruise to lend a hand. STREETRODLIFE.COM
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BEHIND
the
DOOR
This ’60 is pretty much all original with the addition of the Torq Thrusts and a ZZ4 crate under the hood.
Like many street rodders, Rick Stoner was introduced to cars at a very early age. In fact, his father ran the Continental Divide Raceway in Castle Rock, Colorado. This track was ahead of its time as it had a 2.8-mile road course, a dirt oval, and a straight away that was used for drag racing. The young Rick used to sit in the different race cars while the drivers waited to get their cash purse at the end of the weekend. The seed was planted. Today, Rick owns Westech Performance Group outside of Ontario, California. If the name sounds familiar, it’s because Westech is where a load of California auto-scribes take their engines to test. Rick has quite a collection of Corvettes, Chevys, and a few others in various states of restoration. Here, we got a peek behind one door.
This ’65 is a 300hp 327c.i. coupe backed by a Powerglide, the only ‘glide car Rick owns. Whoever ordered a Corvette with a two speed automatic?
Supercharged late model Hemi is a R&D engine at the shop.
’57 Chevy hood goes on Rick’s 150 sedan.
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This is a Kellison Stallion, which was a turnkey builder of Cobra-styled sports cars from 1976 through 1980. Fewer than 120 cars were built. Rick’s has a 429c.i. with a Doug Nash 5-speed.
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