IN - Chinese Young Fashion

Chinese Young Fashion Bilingual-English and Chinese

Author & Editor_Xiaoxiao Lou Book Design_Yankun Xing

Introduction

‘IN’ means ‘in fashion’. It is a popular saying in China, used especially by young people in the south. If someone tells you that you are so ‘IN’, it means you’re trendy or that they like some distinguishing characteristic of your personality.

Here, ‘IN’ is a book on contemporary young Chinese fashion. I can’t see it belonging on a library shelf, so please don’t inspect it with a magnifying glass. It is only for people who are curious about what is happening now in China in terms of fashion. ‘IN’ doesn’t confine itself to China – the Chinese are all over the world and this book follows them around. And because ‘IN’ is bilingual, it is not restricted to Chinese readers but open to English speakers around the world.

There are three sections in this book: ‘IN Designs’, ‘IN Lives’ and ‘IN Cities’.

‘IN Designs’ shows you the amazing designs of the most creative Chinese independent designers, which are not ‘made in China’ or ‘designed in China’ anymore, but ‘created in China’, and it also tells you about the current predicament of Chinese designing with predictable better future. ‘IN Lives’ brings you deep into the fascinating lives of various fashionable Chinese people who excel in some area of the fashion industry. ‘IN Cities’ gives an overview of the general fashion environment in different representative cities by showing what the citizens think is ‘IN’ – the ‘IN’ ways of dressing, the ‘IN’ places to go, the ‘IN’ things to do and the ‘IN’ words to say.

However, no matter how hard one tries, there is no way to cover every aspect of Chinese fashion. I just hope that this book could be a window for both the people inside and the people outside. Shall we open it a crack together?

简介

去测量在不同的文化国度的中国人的时尚温度。而且它是中英双语的， 更好地照顾了中国读者和国际读者的需求。

Introduction

在这里，“IN”是一本关于当代中国年轻时尚的有趣的书。这本书的 归宿并不是图书馆的架子，所以也请不要拿着放大镜来调查它。这本书 只是为了满足一些对正在进行的中国时尚有好奇心和了解欲望的人。当 然它并不局限在中国大陆，而是追随着遍布世界各地的中国人的脚步，

IN Chinese young fashion

“IN”就是“潮”，“正流行”的意思，是中国南方年轻人比较喜欢 用的表达方式。如果谁对你说“你很IN”，那么说明你很时尚，或者 是他们喜欢你身上某种特质。

书的主要章节有三个：“IN设计”，“IN生活”和“IN城市”。“IN 设计”通过介绍中国最具创意的独立设计师的作品和品牌，来展现中国 崭新的设计面貌：再也不是“中国制造”或是“中国设计”，而是“ 中国创造”，当然也揭示了中国目前艰难的设计困境和可预见的光明 未来。“IN生活”带你深入到活跃在时尚行业的各个领域的时尚人士 与众不同的迷人生活里去一窥究竟。“IN城市”则带你去浏览一下各 个有代表性的城市里的中国人的总体时尚氛围，通过介绍他们觉得什么 是“IN”：“IN”的穿着打扮，“IN”的玩乐地点，“IN”的事情， 甚至是“IN”的语录等等。 不管怎么努力，这本书也只能展现中国时尚的冰山一角。但是，我希望 这本书能够打开一扇窗，让外面的人看进来，也让里面的人秀出去。现 在就一起来开启这扇窗吧！

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12_ 第一章：IN设计

14_ 28_ 42_ 52_ 60_

阿拉腔调 : 李鸿雁 城市山民 : 穆丽娟，高平 Vacio : 谢晖 Raphen : 张欣，柴阳冉 Lilian Zhang : 张丽

12_Chapter One: IN Designs 14_ Insh : Li Hongyan 28_ Urban Tribe : Jasmine Mu and Gao Ping 42_ Vacio : Xie Hui 52_ Raphen : Stephen Zhang and Rani Chai 60_ Lilian Zhang : Lily Zhang

In

IN Chinese young fashion

Design

in sh About the designer: Li Hongyan(Helen Lee) 1973, born in Ningbo 2000, graduated from Raffles Design Institute 2003, created the fashion brand Insh (Inshanghai) 2005, held an exhibition of her designs in Melbourne, Australia 2006, created a high-end ready-to-wear brand named after herself – ‘Helen Lee’ 2007, was invited to ‘Creative Fashion Designs’ in Denmark, received and appreciated by Prince Joachim 2008, was invited to Sweden Fashion Week

关于设计师： 李鸿雁 1973年出生， 2000年，毕业于东华拉萨尔国际设计学院 2003年，创立了上海本地的品牌insh 2005年，在澳大利亚墨尔本中国展览馆展出其设计作品 2006年，创立了以自己中文名字命名的高级成衣品牌——“李鸿雁LI HONGYAN” 同年，上海时装节上被誉为中国最有潜力设计师 2007年，作为唯一的中国时尚品牌，受邀参与丹麦创意时尚设计展，并受到丹麦约阿基姆王 子殿下的接见，她和“insh”及“LI HONGYAN” 品牌得到王子的高度赞扬和欣赏。 2008年，受邀参加瑞典时装周

The insh boutique is like a magic box with a tag saying ‘Shanghai’. As soon as you open it, you

flavour of the city. Each piece of design is like a crystal ball that displays either the everlasting charm of an old Shanghai of the 1930s and 1940s

or the ever-changing spirit of a new Shanghai.

The vivid, modern designs tell you everything

about the city’s comings and goings, the laughter

and tears of its citizens, the ups-and-downs of

IN Chinese young fashion

can smell the fragrance of gardenia, the special

Shanghainese culture. The designer – Li Hongyan behind shyness and a childlike smile, but it is

always exciting when she talks frankly. She was born in Ningbo and brought up in Shanghai, which gave her a fascination with Shanghainese without

In Design insh

(Helen Lee) – is a woman whose wisdom is hidden

any affectation.

15

Pictures on both sides are from ‘Gong Type Collection’.

insh的店子就像一个外面贴着“上海”标签的魔术盒，一打开，就仿佛能 闻见上海白兰花的香味，随便拎起一件衣服抖一抖，就散落一地的水晶 珠子，这一颗能窥见三四十年代老上海风韵，那一颗却打上了当代流行 文化的烙印。都市的霓虹艳影，市民的衣食住行，海派的人文风俗都被 心思巧妙地揉进现代且实穿的设计里，让人忍不住也想当一回妖娆的上 海女子。设计师李鸿雁是一个温婉如玉的女子，总带着孩童般的笑容， 说的话却非常直爽。她是宁波人，在上海成长，却不带任何矫饰，而是 有着上海女人的智慧和魅力。

Why did you create Insh?

I started this brand because I wanted to create a totally local brand that could represent new Chinese designs. The

name of the brand – Insh (Inshanghai) came to me when I was at college. It’s not just ‘made in Shanghai’ or ‘designed in Shanghai’, but ‘created in Shanghai’. Its root is in Shanghai so that it couldn’t live anywhere else.

How do you describe the style of your designs?

I would say it’s succinct, but with grace and details. I have a special conception of quality: it’s the creative ways of using fabrics that is significant to me rather than the prices. For example, I would break all kinds

of fabrics into small pieces, and then rearrange and weave them. I always have fun making such experiments,

because something as simple as that can make usual things unusual.

As for the designing, it’s all about combination: a little bit artistic, but wearable and comfortable at the same

time. I don’t like to transplant the Chinese traditions into my designs, but my designs always have a certain Chinese flavour.

为什么创立Insh品牌？ 我开始做这个品牌，是想创立一个全新的代表中国的本土品牌。Insh（阿拉 腔调), 这个名字在我上学的时候就已经想好了。不是上海制造或者是上海设 计，而是上海原创。它来源于上海，植根于上海。 你认为你的设计风格是怎样的？ 我的设计风格很简练，注重流畅性和细节。我对品质有不同的定义：我看重 的是面料用法的创新，而不是追求它的昂贵性。比如说我会把各种不同的面 料打碎，再重新编织起来。我对这种小实验乐此不疲：通过创造将平凡变成 不平凡。而设计感，则是不同方面的结合，既有点艺术化，又仍然强调实穿 性和舒适度。 我不喜欢套用中国传统的东西，或是简单地堆砌中国元素，但 是我的设计就是带着些的中国味道。 那你的设计灵感是从哪里的来的呢？ 我的灵感就来源于上海这个古老又现代的都市，来自于生活的个方面：电 影，音乐，听说，想像，回忆,

老故事等等，就像小时候邻居女孩唱的两嗓

子越剧也可能一直在潜意识里影响我。我喜欢用幽默的态度来观察身边的一 切。我擅长发掘生活内在的东西，并且通过设计细节诚实地发表我的想法和 意见，不是一味地去奉承或是批评。而有时候我也会空想出一个状态，然后 设计一些我觉得在那个假设的时空会出现的一些作品。我每天都能邂逅灵 感，他们总是主动来找我。

Where are you inspirations from?

They are from Shanghai, this ancient and modern street

looks,

old

stories,

tales,

imaginations

and memories, even the girl next door who used

to practice Shaoxing Opera every morning has some untold influence on me. I observe everything around

me with a sense of humour. I’m good at discovering the inner characteristics of life, and I express

them through every detail of my designs honestly,

IN Chinese young fashion

city, and from every aspect of life: movies, music,

not just to compliment or criticize. Sometimes, I to build up that world with my fantasies.

I don’t like to transplant the Chinese traditions into my designs,but my designs always have a certain Chinese flavour. 我不喜欢套用中国传统的东西，或是简 单地堆砌中国元素，但是我的设计就是 带着些”中国味道”。

能举几个例子吗？你是怎么从生活中攫取灵感并应用到设计中的？ 比如说，我时常会想起中小学的时候，穿着蓝衣蓝裤在操场上玩耍的美好时光，就以‘ 玩场’为主题设计了一个系列的服装，不会太复杂，只是在记录我们这代人共同拥有的 一个关于某个时代的记忆。上海的出租车司机不是有统一的制服么，带着白手套，非常 整齐好看，我又做了一个“出租车制服”系列。甚至保安大哥人手一件的军大衣，也被 我拿来改良了，当时都卖疯了，很多客人来找。而“工类时尚”那个系列，是因为太康 路经常会有工人在改建施工，可是很多路过的人对工人嗤之以鼻，我看不过去，劳动阶 级的地位非常低，受鄙视，我觉得这不应该发生在我们国家。于是我以他们劳作后满是 汗渍的衬衫为灵感，用吊染的手法来体现，并且我把上海各个地方的建筑工地拍下来， 合成很漂亮的图案印在衣服上，或者做成紧身裤。我要替他们出口气。我想通过设计发 出我微弱的声音，小到生活中一个平常片断，大到一个时代留下来的印记。呵呵，我还 曾经设想，我如果身处文革时期，会不会是另外一个感觉，我该怎么去跟国际接轨，我 又会做出什么样的设计？于是干脆就做了一个关于空想的文革时期设计系列——“Mash 文革系列”。

In Design insh

daydream about a world that doesn’t exist and try

17

‘Material desires’ is a peculiar mentality of Shanghainese girls which I captured and expressed,though I got criticized for it. “物欲”是上海女生特有的精神状态，这种特定 的东西一旦被我发掘到，我就会体现出来，哪怕 会受到抨击。

Could you give some examples of how you make the inspirations from life work in a design? for

example,

I

always

remember the happy hour in the playground when we were in middle school.

We

were

all

asked

to

wear blue blouses and trousers and it made the playground look

flooded. So I made a collection

called ‘Playground’; the designs are

simple

memory

they

record

shared

certain generation.

Pictures on both sides are from ‘Red Amuse Collection’.

The

‘Taxi

Collection’

Driver

was

by

a

a

Uniform

inspired

by

the neat white gloves worn by

In Design insh

precious

but

IN Chinese young fashion

Well,

taxi drivers, while the ‘Army Greatcoat

inspiration

Collection’ from

the

drew

security

guards who always wear an olivegreen greatcoat in winter. They were so popular and sold out as

soon as they were hung up in the shop.

The ‘Gong Type Collection’ came into being because that I saw the

workers doing reconstruction in

Taikang Road. They work really hard but they are despised by the passers-by, which I don’t think is the way they should be

treated in our country. So I use

你在上海做设计，上海女生必定是你灵感的来 源和诉求者，你怎么看待他们？ 我和朋友聊天的时候也会经常谈论上海女生。 从穿着上来讲，他们懂得从杂志或别人的打扮 中借鉴并很快接受国际潮流，擅长混搭，稍微 有点崇洋媚外。上海女生的性格是名声在外 的，他们与生俱来就有一种优越感。她们多数 精明挑剔，非常现实，不会做对自己没有利的 事情。她们追求好的生活，可以通过各种手段 得到，但又不希望得到不好的评价。“物欲” 是上海女生特有的精神状态，这种特定的东西

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tie-dye to imitate the effect of the workers’ shirts, which are soaked in sweat, and I take pictures of places or buildings under construction and then compose them into

beautiful patterns and use them on leggings. If no one is going to speak for them, I will.

I want to speak through my designs, about things as tiny

as a fragment of normal life or as vague as the track of time. You know, sometimes I wonder what my designs would have been like during the Culture Revolution and how I

would have interpreted the concept of international trends at that time. So I made a series of designs only assumed to have existed in the Cultural Revolution. I named it ‘Mash’.

Since your brand is called ‘Inshanghai’, Shanghainese girls must be your inspiration targets? What do you think of them?

the and

I talk about Shanghainese girls with my friends sometimes.

They have a strong sense of fashion so they know how to mix and match.They absorb the trends quickly but somehow worship

foreign things too much.They are famous for the sense of

superiority that they are born with,and for being picky and materialistic.They run after the good life no matter

what it takes and never spend a second on any unprofitable thing,and – greedily – they want a good reputation at the same time. ‘Material desires’ is a peculiar mentality of

Shanghainese girls which I captured and expressed,though I

一旦被我发掘到，我就会体现出来，哪怕会受到抨击。我曾经能够代表上海女生的话语 印在T恤上，比如说“我宁愿在宝马里哭，也不要在自行车上笑”。还有上海话里的“ 上海作女”和“拗造型”，我甚至把上海的标志性建——“东方明珠”拗成了一个圆作 为印花，再加上拼音的“AOZAOXING”印在衣服上。（“作女”基本上指做事拖泥带 水，做选择心猿意马，又很麻烦粘人的女人。“拗造型”大概就是指一举一动都好像自 己是在被聚焦，故意摆出来的） 你的顾客都是些什么样的人？ 我的市场定位是本土消费者，不同层面的。他们多数接受过高等教育，对新鲜事物的接 受程度高，喜欢到处看看，对生活有特定的追求。 但其实， 一开始中国人并不接受这个品牌，大家对这个牌子熟视无睹，虽然很多顾客可 能会试一试，但是最后不是嫌贵就是嫌款式太怪异，无法穿出去。第一年99％的营业额 都来自国外，三年后才有本土消费者。本土顾客的增长有媒体宣传和品牌口碑各方面的 原因，但是最主要是中国人的意识在改变。

I want to speak through my designs, about things as tiny as a fragment of normal life or as vague as the track of time.

IN Chinese young fashion

我想通过设计发出我微弱的声音，小到生活中 一个平常片断，大到一个时代留下来的印记。

In Design insh

21

‘Second Identify Collection’

got criticized for it.I have printed some representative phrases on my T-shirts,such as ‘I’d rather cry in a BMW, than laugh on a bicycle’,and

the special words used in Shanghainese language: ‘Shanghainese ZUO

girl’ and ‘AOZAOXING’ (‘ZUO girl’ is the kind of girl who can’t make

up her mind and becomes unhappy about whatever she choses and who is sometimes hard to handle. ‘AOZAOXING’ describes the kind of person

who thinks she lives under the spotlight and deliberately makes some movements or adopts various poses to make themselves like a supermodel or a celebrity.) I twisted the significant building of Shanghai – the Oriental Pearl TV Tower – into a circle to make fun of those who twist their bodies when posing.

Who are the customers for your brand?

The target market of my brand is local customers at all levels who are highly educated and open-minded about new things. They love travelling around and pursue a life of quality.

In fact, Chinese customers didn’t like this brand at first, and they

It so happened that I don’t just decorate my clothes with Chinese traditions but remake them with all the delightful and interesting thoughts I’ve got from life.

为什么你针对中国的设计会受外国人的欢迎呢？ 外国人喜欢我的品牌，跟他们的社会背景和生活习惯不同有关。他们希望设计里面有些中 国元素带来新鲜感，又要结合他们的生活背景。我的设计不是单纯把中国元素放进去，而 是带着点幼稚和童趣地将生活点滴融入设计里。比如说改良旗袍，我运用像棉布，涤纶这 类旗袍不用的布料来做一件下摆稍宽的旗袍。中国人对旗袍的印象是经过历史沉淀下来的 根深蒂固的，所以很难接受这类改良设计。而外国人却喜欢这些跟他们本国文化迥异的元

tended to ignore it. They might try my clothes on, but never buy them, either because the price is too high or the

design is too eccentric. In the first year, 99 percent of we finally had some local customers. Though the promotion

from the press and the public praise did help, the main

reason for the increase in local customers is their changed consciousness.

Why are your clothes, designed popular with foreigners?

for

the

Chinese,

IN Chinese young fashion

the turnover was from abroad. It was in the third year that

The foreigners love my brand because they have a different the Chinese elements but it has to be within the frame of

their aesthetics.It so happened that I don’t just decorate

my clothes with Chinese traditions but remake them with all the delightful and interesting thoughts I’ve got from life.

In Design insh

social and cultural background.They like the freshness of

我的设计不是单纯把中国元素放进去，而是带着点幼稚 和童趣地将生活点滴融入设计里。 23

素，他们没有深刻地接触过中国文化，反而让他们能够从轻松开放的审美角度来 欣赏一件设计作品。很多国外媒体对我的设计都很感兴趣，第一个报道我的设计 的就是一个法国网站，接着是瑞典。11月份，加拿大又邀请我过去开一场专门针 对华人的秀。当初日本的品牌和设计也是这样在欧洲慢慢被接受和承认的，但是 现在日本的设计已经饱和了，他们就把目光瞄向中国。

ones, it can be made of cotton or polyester instead of silk, it can have Pop-Art prints

instead of flowers, and it can have a broad lap too. Chinese people have an ingrained impression

of Qipao – the historic Chinese costume – so it’s

too hard for them to accept this kind of reformed

design. Foreigners, on the contrary, don’t have

Fashion Designer Li HongYan

For example, my Qipao is not like the traditional

such a cultural burden, so they can appreciate a piece of work from a light and open perspective.

The foreign press are so interested in my work:

the first one who started to report on me was a French website, followed by a Swedish one. This November, I’m invited to hold an exclusive show

in Canada. This is the same way that Japanese brands and designers started to gain their fame

and market in the western world, but since the market for Japanese designs is saturated, the attention has been diverted onto us.

And I think the Chinese media has been paying

more and more attention to you and other local designers as well.

Yes, they have. However, the Chinese media only care about us because local designers are a hot

topic now. You don’t hope that they will specially promote you or give you more exposure simply because they appreciate your good designs.

中国媒体也开始越来越关注你的品牌了？ 是的。中国媒体开始慢慢关注我的品牌，但是他们的支持并也许不是由衷的，他们 更多把本土品牌当成一个热门话题来做，不会因为特别欣赏你的设计而特地来捧红 你。我觉得这对设计师是一种侮辱。 品牌目前的发展状况怎样？ Insh在正常地运行和慢慢地扩大，现在开始做饰品类，但是因为还不能达到工厂的 最低起订量，只能做手工的。我和另外一个朋友还有一个品牌，专门设计一些风趣 地模仿艺术和娱乐偶像的小猪猪，比如说蒙娜丽莎猪，大卫猪和玛丽莲梦露猪。这 都只是短暂地玩玩创意，太康路游客比较多，设计那些东西有些肤浅，但是卖得还 不错, 算是将创意和市场结合。 听说除了Insh，你还有一个高级的个人品牌？ 是的。Insh是一个年轻的品牌，非常当代，但有一些客户开始要求我设计一些比较 成熟且特别的衣服，能够让他们穿着出席不同的场合。于是我就创立了另外一个品

IN Chinese young fashion In Design insh

25

‘insh’ store at Tianzifang,Shanghai.

牌——“李鸿雁”，有点像定制，为客人量身度做，但是会出系列。这个 品牌的客户忠诚度比较高，有些甚至会收集我的每个系列的作品。但是， 目前我在上海只有一家店，两个品牌放在一起销售。好不容易花了7年做 了一个品牌，现在要混淆，挺伤感情的。 你一个人身兼两三个品牌的设计，还要负责经营，很辛苦吧？ 我现在更多在经营,因为中国没有专业的时尚投资商。营销不是主要目的 也不是最终目的，我会花两三年视角来积累沉淀，但是我最终还是想多做 好玩的设计。经营和设计需要很多精力和时间来平衡，我已经走在这条路 上，尽管很累，但是我很开心。 那作为设计师让你开心的是什么？ 我昨天晚上穿着自己做的旗袍出席活动，用可口可乐罐头，M&M,

LIKE(

山寨版的NIKE)等图案拼成的印花布料。设计对于我来说就是乐趣，也是 我的理想和使命，坚持它很累，但是也让我很有自豪感。

I might spend two or three years on it just to build up a firm foundation for my brands, but it’s good designs that I’m always devoted to. Though working on both tires me out, I feel happy and content.

营销不是主要目的也不是最终目的，我会花两三年视角来 积累沉淀，但是我最终还是想多做好玩的设计。经营和设 计需要很多精力和时间来平衡，我已经走在这条路上，尽 管很累，但是我很开心。

Address: No. 200 Taikand Road, Shanghai www. insh.com.cn Tel: 0086-21-6466 5249 地址：上海市 泰康路 200号

How is your business getting on?

Insh is running well and developing normally. I just started the

accessories line. Since the quantity couldn’t reach the lowest And I’m doing another brand with my friend. We do some graphics on

Pop Art, like a piggy imitating serious art or popular icons like the Mona Lisa, David, and Marilyn Monroe, in a silly but fun way.

And then we print them on small items like a notebook. I know it’s

superficial, but since we are located in a touristy area, these can attract the attention of visitors immediately, and they are comparatively easier to make and quicker to sell. Sometimes you

IN Chinese young fashion

limit for mass manufacture in the factories, they remain hand-made.

have to sell cheap creativity to support the great ones.

Yes.Insh is a modern and young brand.I had some customers who used

to buy Insh but as they became older and more demanding they asked

In Design insh

You have another high-end ready-to-wear brand apart from Insh, right?

me to make some clothes for mature women and special occasions.So I created another brand named after myself – ‘Helen Lee’.It’s kind

of like couture,but it has seasonal collections as well.This brand has more loyalty from customers, some of whom even collect the work

from each collection.Unfortunately,I could only afford one shop

opening in Shanghai at the moment,so I have to sell the two brands together though in different areas,which would confuse costumers and blur the definition of the two brands.It hurts my feelings to

mix up a brand that I have been working on for seven years with one that represents my ideal concept of design.

Don’t you think it’s hard and tiring for you to be a designer for two or three brands and the operator of the brands at the same time?

I spend most of my time and energy on running the brands. China

doesn’t have professional fashion operators and investors. Selling is not my aim and goal. I might spend two or three years on it just

to build up a firm foundation for my brands, but it’s good designs

that I’m always devoted to. Though working on both tires me out, I feel happy and content.

What makes you feel happy as a designer?

Well, last night, I attended an event in a Qipao designed by myself.

It’s a unique one with prints composed from the image of a Coca

Cola can, M&M logo and Like logo (copycatted from Nike, a Chinese speciality), and it wowed everyone. Design is the joy of my life, my dream and my pride.

27

About the designer: Xie Hui 1979, born in Jiangxi 2003, graduated from the Institute of Art and Fashion, Tianjin.

Polytechnic University 2004-2005, Designer of OTT. 2005-2007, Chief Designer of VOL.3 Mar. 2007-Oct. 2008, Director of design department of THROB IMMOBILE 2008, created VACIO 关于设计师： 谢晖 1979年生，江西人 2003年，天津纺织工学院服装设计专业毕业 2004-2005年, 担任OTT设计师 2005-2007年, VOL.3首席设计师， 2007年3月-2008年10月, THROB IMMOBILE设计部经理 2008年，创立VACIO品牌

VACIO

Address: 284 Changle Road, Shanghai www. vacio-x.com Tel: 0086-21-53069500 地址：上海市 长乐路 284号

VACIO is a Spanish word meaning ‘emptiness’.

‘Emptiness’ means to forgo the old beings, times

and things, to restart from nothing, and to own a young Chinese local fashion brand.

By rotating the green wheel handle on the glass

door, you’re led into an industrial world. The 1940s German gramophone is still in a good condition, the colourful spray-painted electronic cables are put in

a specific order on a panel board, and a handmade inspiration book is hanging up by a thick cotton

IN Chinese young fashion

whole new state: it’s a rebirth. VACIO is also a very

knit, all of which conjures up the leading role: carries some certain information waiting for you to

decipher and interpret – the metallic lustre shining above the fabric, the gradient colour imitating the

feminine outline – what kind of message do you get from them?

VACIO

effect of rustiness, and the fluent cutting of the

In Design

clothes. Each piece of the designs is like a code that

I never thought it could be a female designer behind

all of this until I heard her voice on the telephone.

Fashion Designer Xie Hui

Xie hui is a low-key person who absorbs even the

sound rays and who releases a strong aura at the same time.

VACIO来源于西班牙语，意为“空白”。“空白”是一种重 生，一种对原有的事、时、物的放弃，从零开始，拥有全新的 状态。VACIO也是一个年轻的中国本土原创品牌。推开装着绿 色车轮手柄的玻璃店门，进入了一个工业空间：40年代的德国 产播放机还保持着良好的状态；经过喷色处理的电缆游走在面 板上；衣服旁边还摆着手作的灵感薄，被两根粗棉线串着—— 一切装潢都在无声地烘托服装这个主体的个性。工业金属的色 泽和质感被不同的印染和布料解码重编，硬朗的线条勾勒出一 个个诱人的轮廓。这一切的创造者，设计师谢晖的声音在电话 里柔软响起的时候，才打破了我的一厢情愿：她原来是一个女 性设计师。一个低调内敛得仿佛能吸收一切的女子，却拥有一 种随时准备释放的强大能量。

‘Golden Collar’ Collection

43

Why did you give your brand the Spanish name VACIO?

At the beginning, I was thinking of using the word ‘Kongbai’ which means

‘emptiness’ in Chinese, just because my brain was a total blank. When I heard this Spanish word from a friend, I knew that was it. It has an appealing look and its pronunciation is delightful.

Does the name have anything to do with your decision to give up a decent job in various big companies and start the brand all on your own?

I think so. It’s tough to run my own business. I have a very tight budget now

and have to lead a simpler life ever since. But nothing is more important to me than a satisfied and enriched spiritual life.

What made you take the decision to create your own brand?

Creating a new brand has always been my dream and ambition. I have been

working in fashion companies for seven to eight years, but I was always restless, because I couldn’t release my inner passion. I’m a capricious person: as soon as I get used to something, I get sick of it and I need a change.

Custom is as terrifying to me as opium, because once you get the habit you

lose yourself. You tend to think what you are doing is what you want, and you imprison yourself like a frog in a well.

What are the differences between an independent designer and one affiliated with a company?

When I was working for the companies, I knew clearly what I was designing

and to whom they would be selling. But now I’m confused. My designs are more like an outlet of my emotions, rather than an outcome of marketing

strategies. Operating a successful commercial brand is easy for me, it’s just a case of whether I wish to or not. Many top brands sent me offers asking me

to be their creative director, and I turned them down because I didn’t want to adjust myself to the market environment anymore. I’m a person who stays out

of line, and so are my designs. What you are doing and what you want to do are two different things.

为什么品牌命名为VACIO？而且用西班牙文？ 最初我是打算用中文的“空白”来命名的，因为我当时脑子刹那间一片空白。一个朋友告诉我它 在西班牙语里的说法，我觉得它看上去很简单大方，听上去也愉悦响亮。 这跟你放弃原来服装公司设计工件的工作而自己从无到有地开创品牌有关系么？ 我想是有的，现在经营自己的品牌，虽然物质生活非常清贫，要精打细算，但是精神生活却更 丰富了。 为什么选择创立自己的品牌？ 这是我一直的梦想。在品牌公司做了七八年，一直都不安分，因为达不到真正自我释放的状态。 我很善变，一旦一样东西变成了一种习惯，我就想放弃，想改变。我害怕习惯，因为习惯跟鸦片 一样，会让人上瘾，让人迷失自己。它让你以为这就是自己想要的，而自己囚禁成为井底之蛙。

IN Chinese young fashion In Design VACIO

45

I thought the designer behind VACIO would be a man, because I sense the industrial and architectural element in the designs.

Do you have any background in industry?

No, I don’t. It’s just about my personal interests and the

feelings floating in my blood. Even if you ask me to make a dress with silk, I will make it rigid and angular. The same

fabric has different characteristics in different eyes, and would be turned into different outfits by different hands.

这与在公司当设计师有什么不同？ 以前在工作公司做品牌的时候，目标非常鲜明，但是自己做的时候就会模糊， 设计往往更倾向于自我情感的表达，而不是市场需要什么。成功操作一个市场 品牌对我来说很简单，只是在于我愿不愿意。很多一线品牌邀请我去当总监， 但是去一个公司，要去适应它和它所处的市场环境。我是一个很出格的人，包 括我的设计也是，做什么和想做什么完全是两码事。

I haven’t really thought about my style, because I don’t style for style. However, any piece made by me is marked with my soul, so that everyone can tell that it’s my style and no one can imitate it.

What do you think is the difference between male designers and you in terms of perspectives in designing?

I think, if it is a gay male designer, the designs must be sexy and with a lot of sexual insinuations. Heterosexual male designers, like Gao Xin, on the other hand, make neutral designs. As for me, I feel

like using the sense of space and introverted sumptuousness to express the strain in the heart and the strength in the mind.

Do you think your style is consistent or changeable?

I haven’t really thought about my style, because I don’t style for style. However, any piece made by me is marked with my soul, so that everyone can tell that it’s my style and no one can imitate it.

我一开始以为VACIO是男设计师的牌子，因为名字和设计风格都有点男性化，充满了工业 感和建筑空间感。 我没有任何工业背景，只是兴趣和感觉使然。这是我骨子里的东西，哪怕让我做一条真丝 裙子，我也会做得非常硬朗，有棱有角的。同样的面料在不同的设计师眼里也是具有不同 的特性的，做出来的成品也必然不同。 那你觉得男设计师们的设计角度跟你有什么区别呢？ 我觉得最大的不同在于，如果是男同性恋设计师，做出来的东西都非常性感，带有 一定的性暗示。一般的男性设计师设计的女装会比较中性化。而我则喜欢有建筑感 的高级成衣，内敛的奢华，呼之欲出的绚丽。我喜欢用体积感来表达内心的张力， 强硬的内在。

How do you find your inspirations?

I usually set up a theme first, and then expand it with ideas. Those deliberately, though my collections always appear to have been thought over in the first instance. I’m a casual person just like my favourite designer – Rei Kawakubo.

How is your business getting on?

I have another commercial brand called EMAUX, which means

cloisonné. It’s for women with an exquisite life, a respectable attitude

IN Chinese young fashion

themes are from flashes in life. I don’t look for so-called inspirations

and elegant taste. And VACIO is a brand for myself, and it serves self-

only collections in the coming few years, I’m waiting for a suitable time to develop it into a decent brand. I have the ability and resources

In Design

expression rather than customers’ preferences. Though there will be

to launch it in the department stores, but I don’t have enough energy Road is getting prosperous because of independent designers, it’s not yet a mature business circle like Aoyama in Japan.

我没有想过自己的风格，因为我并没有为了风格而 营造风格，但是我做出来的东西，别人一看就知道 是出自谢晖之手。风格是骨子里渗透出来的东西， 不会变，别人也无法模仿。

那你的设计风格是具有一贯性的还是多变的？ 我没有想过自己的风格，因为我并没有为了风格而营造风格，但是我做出来的东西， 别人一看就知道是出自谢晖之手。风格是骨子里渗透出来的东西，不会变，别人也无 法模仿。 那你的设计灵感从何而来？ 我会设定一个主题，然后根据这个主题来展开想法。而主题也无非是某一时间的想 法，突然觉得有趣而为之。我不会刻意去寻找所谓的灵感，虽然呈现出来的时候好像 是预先就想好的。就像我喜欢的设计师川久保玲一样，我也是一个随性之人。 目前你的品牌的发展现状是怎样的？ 我在做另外一个比较市场化的品牌，放在女人的梦想的系列里面，叫做EMAUX,是景 泰蓝瓷器的意思。我希望买我衣服的女人有精致的生活，优雅的状态和高尚的品位。 而VACIO是纯粹为我自己服务的一个牌子，表达自己先于取悦市场，所以未来的两三 年时间内，还只能推出系列，等待时机成熟会重新变成品牌。 我有能力和渠道让品牌进驻商场，但是精力不够，中国的服装是个无底洞。长乐路虽 然因为独立设计师而兴旺起来，但是毕竟不像日本青山已经形成了成熟的商业圈。 那你衣服的价格定位是多少？被市场所接受么？ 我的衣服定价比较高，比如说大衣在3000元左右，这跟我使用高级的意大利面料有 关，而且开店的成本也很高 。大家不认可设计师，只认可便宜的东西， 春夏系列根本 不能跟那些卖仿名牌的小店竞争，设计师们只能靠秋冬系列。而且来逛的人大多是相 关行业的人，并不是纯粹的消费者。

VACIO

or money to spend to fill up the bottomless pit. Though Changle

47

What’s the price level of your clothes? Are they well accepted by the market?

The price is around 3,000 RMB for a coat, a little bit high mainly because the cost of quality Italian fabrics and the location is high. People choose cheap

clothes over good designs, so our Spring/Summer collections can’t compete with those counterfeits and we rely on Autumn/Winter collections. Another

problem is that most of our customers are people from the industry rather than pure customers.

How is the competition with other independent designers?

I’m out there alone, due to my personality. Actually,

we are all in a battle, but the enemies are not one another. When independent designers first came out, their strange and fresh designs attracted a lot of customers. But customers have got aesthetic fatigue now, and they have become cool-headed

enough to think about what good design is and to

respect clothes, which causes a big reshuffle of designers. And the environment of Chinese fashion

at the moment couldn’t supply fashion designers with the freedom to express their emotions

without any rational thinking. That is what we are all struggling with and fighting against.

那你与其他的独立设计师的竞争激烈么？ 我都是单打独斗，这是我一贯以来的精神状态决定的。实际上，我 们都在同一个战场上，但是敌人不是对方。当独立设计师刚出来的 时候，新奇的设计吸引了不少的消费者。但是现在消费者已经产生 了审美疲劳，冷静下来后会去细心地体会什么是设计而增加对服装 的尊重。设计师们都面临着新一轮的洗牌，但是设计师不需要牵涉 到理性思维而可以尽情宣泄情绪和表达自我的状态对于中国时尚还 言之尚早。我们都还处于在恶劣的大环境下孤立无援地挣扎奋斗的 阶段。 你觉得土生土长的设计师和那些曾经在国外留学的设计师在设计和经营理 念上有什么不同？ 同行会自觉地避免谈论这些问题。但是我觉得国际是开放的，就算 没有在国外学过，思维也是国际化的。我以前就经常出国，巴黎， 米兰去得比较多，也会去伦敦，都是为了工作去参加面料展或者采 购样衣，同时也可以提高眼界。在中国文化中成长，即便是做西式 化的东西，仍然会带有中国的感觉。这是区别也是优势。 你渴望成名么？成为像陆坤那样的明星设计师？ 我从来不不热衷于自我宣传，在时尚派对里我永远是在角落里喝果 汁的那个。 我不擅长在很多人面前来表现我自己，我做每件事情都 是发自内心的，如果要勉强自己才能得到的东西，我宁愿不要 。我 宁愿把精力用来睡觉或者多做一些衣服 ，其实我看着我的衣服就很

EMAUX

Do you think that designers like you who haven’t studied or worked abroad have different concepts in designs from those who have?

think the world is wide-open so that it enables us to think in an international way. It doesn’t matter if we have studied or worked abroad or not. I went abroad quite often to Paris and

Milan, and sometimes London, most of the time for work – like attending some fabric exhibitions and purchasing some

samples – and it broadened my horizon. Born in Chinese culture, we can’t help but infuse Chinese feelings into western

IN Chinese young fashion

We consciously avoid talking about this kind of questions. I

designs. This is the difference and the advantage.

For me, fame is like a pretence hidden behind a gorgeous appearance that never lasts long, and the day it suddenly runs

about self-promotion. In whichever fashion party, I’m always

the one who stays in a corner and drinks her juice quietly.

VACIO

away from you, you will find yourself with nothing. I’m not crazy

In Design

Do you want to be famous, like the celebrity designer Lu Kun?

I’m never good at selling myself. If I have to force myself to do something against my heart in order to get something, I’d rather give it up. Spending time on sleep or making clothes amuses and comforts me better. I feel so content just looking

at my clothes. You know, there is nothing to be proud of as

a designer. It’s just that we make some nice garments, like everyone else who has his own value in society.

Why are you into fashion since you are so tranquil?

Oh, that dates back to my childhood. My mom used to drag

her sewing machine out every weekend and make clothes and toys for my brother and me. I got into it naturally just as the sound of sewing got into my ears.

满足。 设计师也没什么值得骄傲的地方，不过师做了漂亮的衣服而已，每个 人在社会上都有自己的价值。 你这么淡然的性格怎么会喜欢上时尚呢？ 哈哈，因为我小时候总是穿着巧手的妈妈做的衣服，玩她做的玩具。一到 星期天她就会把她的家伙拉出来，哒哒哒地给我缝衣服，我自然而然就爱 上了做衣服。不过妈妈现在不做衣服了，这跟生活节奏有关系，不允许慢 工细活了。我是个急性子，却很讨厌快节奏的生活，因为这样人就变成了 工作的机器。 那你现在自己都穿什么衣服？ 主要是穿自己做的衣服，现在穿的就是自己的设计。有时候也会穿大牌的， 很多年前喜欢穿山本耀司的衣服，他的衣服很有气场。前两年爱上了“巴黎 世家”，现在纽约比较红的菲利林的拉练裙我也买了一条。我很讨厌死的衣 服，我觉得服装也是有语言的，有些设计可能粗陋，但是它能够传递刚请， 这才是一个好设计师的功力。

49

I’m such a conflicted person that I can be conservative and rebellious at the same time. I won’t confine myself within any particular division.

我不会把自己定位在固定的区间范围里，不是不可以做明 星设计师，但是那对于我来说只是掩饰在华丽外表下的虚 伪而已，然后人就变得贫瘠，最终什么也不是。

My mom stopped making clothes a long time ago, because

the fast pace of life doesn’t allow slow work. I’m an impatient

person, but I hate the quick rhythm of life that makes people

What do you usually wear?

Most of the time, I wear my own designs, like the ones I’m wearing now. Sometimes, I buy clothes from big brands like

Balenciaga, and designers like Yoji Yamamoto, whose clothes have a strong aura, and Philip Lim – I bought his famous zipper

skirt. I hate clothes that are dull and dead, because I think

IN Chinese young fashion

non-stop machines.

they can talk in their own languages. Some designs might be the spirit of the clothes that defines a good designer.

What is your life like apart from designing?

me a standard workaholic. Sometimes, when I really need to relax, I run away for months and take a long vacation.

VACIO

I work more than ten hours a day with little rest, which makes

In Design

rough, but I can receive emotional messages from them. It’s

And what is designing for you?

Designing for me is all. Designs are divided into three divisions according to the objectives that it serves: market, own

emotions and art. Many designers can’t tell the difference

between a designer and an artist, so they lose their identity.

In my opinion, if you want to be an artist, you should treat

fabrics as an art material, and clothes, as the outcome, are an artistic production. I feel lost sometimes. To earn my living, I have to cater for the market in the near future, but someday I

will eventually run off the tracks. I’m such a conflicted person that I can be conservative and rebellious at the same time. I won’t confine myself within any particular division.

你设计之外的生活是怎样的？ 设计是我的全部。我每天工作十个多小时，不太休息，是个标准的工作狂。有时候很 想放松，但是我不喜欢短暂地放松，如果实在受不了了，我就会出走，好好地休息几 个月。

设计对于你来说什么？ 设计是我的全部。设计对于我来说分为三个区间：主要看设计目的是为了服务谁：是 消费者，还是自己的情感，又或者是艺术。很多设计师搞不清楚设计师和艺术家的区 别，越来越迷惘，我觉得要当艺术家的话，就直接把布料当成艺术品来做，而服装作 为成品只能借艺术之名。我也很迷茫，为了生存，未来还是会面向市场服务于大家， 但是难免会出轨，我其实很矛盾，有时候思维很保守，有时候又会很叛逆。我不会把 自己定位在固定的区间范围里，不是不可以做明星设计师，但是那对于我来说只是掩 饰在华丽外表下的虚伪而已，然后人就变得贫瘠，最终什么也不是。

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In

68_Chapter Two: IN lives IN Chinese young fashion

68_ 第二章：IN生活

70_ Colouring the Life : Linda Cooper 82_ Queen of the Dolls : Wang Chan 90_ Joy of Sharing : Lin Wencong 98_ Breathing Luxury : Ethan Koh 104_ We à the World : ‘ToyGu’ team 112_ Say “In bocca al lupo” to your Fashion Life : Song Jingbo 122_ To Live as an Outsider : Sophie Liu

Lives 70_ 为生活上色 : Linda Cooper 82_ 娃娃之后 : 王宸 90_ 分享快乐 : 林文聪 98_ 呼吸也奢华 : 许伟杰 104_ “啊!世界”:“玩谷”团队 112_ ‘狼嘴里‘的时尚生活 : 宋静波 122_ 像局外人一样生活 : 刘怡飞

Colouring the Life

Linda Cooper

Geisha Look

IN Chinese young fashion

Linda Cooper 20 years old Half Chinese half English Freelance visual artist and photographer Grown up in Shanghai, living in London.

Taking a gap year from Central Saint Martins.

Linda Cooper was a bad student: she was interested in drawing instead of

Linda Cooper

According to her Chinese teachers,

In Lives

为生活上色 mathematics, turned into a visual artist and photographer, and is preparing to become a fashion designer. There are more roles that she could play: stylist, make-up artist and even model.

Everything began by being a hobby, and she never minds ending up a failure, but has always turned out to be very successful in whatever she has done.

She has done four interviews within one week and a TV show for the BBC, and has also been invited by a big studio

71

in Taiwan to work with celebrities as a

concealing herself with colours but just

photographer. But she might just be doing

being her true self – a colourful person

everything when she gets there because

with a colourful life. She spends one hour

she has got it all.

on dressing and making up before she goes out. And she is so excited about

However, what defines Linda is not all her

meeting her hero – Marilyn Manson – in

talents, but her attitude and personality.

real life that she wants to tell everyone

She is simply doing her best on what she

about the amazing experience.

loves, and all the so-called success is just an extra gift for this persistent and

But most of time she is like a mature

hardworking girl, since the best prize for

grown-up who knows exactly how to draw

her is nothing but living her life in her

her life picture even though she doesn’t

own way.

yet know what it will be like, and realizing the influence she has on her adolescent

This 20-year-old is sometimes like a child

admirers, she doesn’t want to lead them

who dares use all her imagination and

onto the wrong path – of blindly giving

every colour in the spectrum on herself

up school.

as on a piece of paper, and doesn’t care about what others think, because she is not

IN Chinese young fashion In Lives Linda Cooper

This 20-yearold is sometimes like a child who dares use all her imagination and every colour in the spectrum on herself as on a piece of paper.

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She is simply doing her best on what she loves, and all the so-called success is just an extra gift for this persistent and hardworking girl, since the best prize for her is nothing but living her life in her own way.

：因为她的兴趣从来不在数学上面，而是喜欢整天不 停地涂涂画画。但是她现在变成了视觉艺术家和摄影 师，而且正在准备朝时装设计发展。除了这些，她还 能扮演更多的角色：造型师，化妆师甚至是模特。

不介意以失败告终，最后却总是很成功。光是这个星 档电视节目，而且她还被台湾的一家工作室邀请去给 明星们当摄影师。等她到了那边，一定是什么都做， 因为她什么都能做。

Linda Cooper

期，她就接受了四个采访，帮英国BBC电视台做了一

In Lives

所有的这一切都起源于她的爱好，不管做什么，她都

IN Chinese young fashion

根据Linda的中国老师的说法，她是一个“坏学生”

她的实力毋庸置疑，但是真正让她与众不同的是她的 个性和人生态度。她一直都只是在认真而踏实 地投 入到自己喜欢做的事情里。那些随之而来的所谓“成 功”只是给这个不屈不挠又勤奋努力的女孩一个额外 的礼物而已，因为她最大的奖赏莫过于过着自己喜欢 的生活。 这个20岁的女生时而像一个孩子一样，毫不畏惧地把 自己的身体当成一张白纸，将她所有的想像力和光谱 里的每个颜色都尽情挥洒在上面，也从来不介意别人 的看法，因为她不是在用浓厚的妆容在遮掩自己， 而是在表达真实的自我——一个拥有着彩色生活的 彩色人儿。她每天出门都会花上一个小时来穿衣和化 妆，而且总是很兴奋地告诉每个人她和自己的英雄偶 像——Marilyn Manson的相遇的美妙经历。 但是更多的时候，她就是一个成熟的大人，完全知道 该怎么去描绘她的生活画章，虽然她还无法想像出成 品将会是什么样子，而且她很清楚明白自己对那些未 成年爱好者的影响力和责任，她不想误导他们盲目地 放弃学习。

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Linda’s Self-introduction

Me Me Me??? I am a Freelance photographer, and graphic designer, somehow I am also an art student @ CSM... (but I really don’t want to be a student anymore, coz teachers aren’t teachers, they didn’t teach me anything...) and also somehow I am a part part part part time ‘model’ -_WTF... My life is in London r8 now, blah blah blah… I like here, so many fab ppl around...and I am fab too, hahahah.. I really don’t care about who r those ppl think i’m a fuckin weirdo... or whatever...as long as I think my life is yummy… so I will keep up... I don’t like 2 go to hair salon, coz I can do my own hair cut,,and keep dying my hair to any colours,,,well,,it’s easy.. very!^^ I don’t like go to restaurant, coz I can cook very well,,oh yer,,, I like to make sushi...and any kind of spicy foodssssssssssssssss......++++ soups..^^In some point,I really wish I can be a House Wife..ahahha~ I don’t like teachers,,,coz I learned everything by myself.. No drugsssss,,, coz something called nature Passion~^^..(but I don’t

IN Chinese young fashion In Lives Linda Cooper

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Linda’s Blog: http:// lindacooper. blog. 163.com Linda’s works: http:// www. moko.cc/post/lidacooper/indexpost.html

mind ppl do drugs,,at least they r trying to make themselves feel better...they do ,,coz they need...) I going to parties quite often, but I don’t like get drunk,,,maybe coz I have to look after myself,,and...take care of my fuckin camera.............Y_Y For the next step,,, I would like to help myslef become a stylist and fashion designer...I know I will^^ and i will work hard....^^ Marilyn Manson is my Hero,,,,,,,, I keep telling ppl,, I said Manson is so cute,,,but all ppl think I am crazy...~~but I really do think Manson is cute,,,he is smart,,,and he is a gentleman..!Trust Me..~^^ I love Hakan’s

photography, and he is a nice person,a good friend..!!! I love my parents,,,they r very supportive,,my mum is my 1st model, she is awesome,,,and u know what,,she is a Myspace nurde,ahahaha...~~and My dad,,,i call him daddy mummy,,coz he made better sandwich then my mum..which makes me feel better,when i take out my lunch box,i was so embraced with my mum’s sandwich,i

IN Chinese young fashion In Lives Linda Cooper

perfer diet for the school lunch time.. hahaha...Jk Jk..^^ Oh,,and I loved that 20 yrs old girl,,who’s name is LindaCooper.. ahaha...^^lalalala..~she worked so hard for her every tiny,little,big,huge fuckin dreams..~ and i know she will get on the stage she want.. Thx everyone,,even thanks for the ppl, who made me feel bad,sad,mad,dead.... I washed up my face, cleaned up my mind, teddy up my soul and dressed up my confidence.. get ready for every single today. There always a new me,,,a different me... so...don’t trying to kill me,,,coz it won’t work...unless i give up... And dat I,,,,really really really hate those ppl whom r only know how to spell ‘jealous’ in their mind,,,can u just don’t waste time,,and work harder~~??!!!there is nothing u can’t do can’t be,,if others could,,it mean u could 2~!!so stop jealousin ppl,,and stop being a double dealing person,,,i believe u only have one Heart,,or maybe u r freaky since da day u born??....so if u like me, like me... if u don’t like me,,,don’t have to force ur mind,,trying to be fake to me...it is so sad..horrible..........-_-|||If u dunno what is HONEST means,,plz stay away from me...far far away..!’

79

Quoted from her blog and translated: "Are you more sincere than I am only because you don’t wear any make up?

Even if I’m a puppet, a piece of plastic I still have a beating heart You are all higher and better than me Too many people like you in this world Shadowing my life But what I am going to do Is much higher than you Even if I have to break my legs to grow taller I shall let you see me one day A shining and gorgeous me’

引用自Linda的博客： 你们素颜就比我真么？ 就算我是塑料，木偶人 我也是真心的塑料，木偶人 你们都比我高比我高 多几个你们 连我的身影都看不到 可是我要做的事情 比你们更高 哪怕有一天我必须踩高跷 也要让你们看得到 而且我会闪闪发亮地让你们看到

IN Chinese young fashion In Lives Linda Cooper

81

‘If you want to draw, if you want to paint But you don’t have a piece of paper You still have your body skin’

如果你想涂，如果你想画 却没有纸张，你仍然有自己 身体和皮肤。

Lin Wencong

Self-Introduction:

23 years old, living in

My name is Wencong. I’m just an

Guangzhou, part-time

ordinary woman who works in an office

model and the owner of an

and who loves chasing beautiful

Internet shop on Taobao.

things. I am interested in photography, writing, delicacies and traveling. I used to be a backpacker and I have been to Australia, Japan, America, Germany, England, South Africa and Russia. I’m always thrilled to be able to experience different cultures and

分享快乐

J oy

of S haring

customs.

IN Chinese young fashion In Lives Lin Wencong

91

林文聪 23岁 现居广州，日系混搭达人， 兼职平面模特和淘宝网店主 自我介绍: 我是林文聪，一个普通的上班 族，喜欢追求美的东西。热爱摄 影，热爱文字，热爱美食，热爱 旅游。一个人背着背包去过澳 洲，日本，美国，德国，英国， 南非，俄罗斯...向往体验不同的生 活习俗。

Part-time Model How does it feel to be a model?

It’s fun and tiring. Usually, shooting is either commercial or non-commercial. I prefer noncommercial shoots, because it’s like playing with your friends, and through different styling and themes, I always discover a whole new me. And I’m so glad that my every breakthrough was documented, so I can keep the experience somewhere apart from in my memory. If it is just a commercial shoot, I feel nothing but fatigue.

What’s the most interesting experience of modelling?

Because of my height, I model for makeup most of the time. If there is something interesting, it must be having to make a facial expression that I can barely imagine.

Has your life changed because of modelling?

Change? I think the only change is that I get to know more people and to be known by more people.

IN Chinese young fashion In Lives Lin Wencong

Through different stylings and themes, I always discover a whole new me.

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Mix-and-match Master Do you think your love of dressing has something to do with being a model?

No. I love dressing and styling because I love beautiful things. I couldn’t step out of my door if I didn’t look good. You feel more confident and will earn more respect by dressing nicely.

Do you think you have a certain style?

If so, what is it?

I don’t have a firm style, and I would try everything as long as I think it is pretty.

But I have found that my styles usually go to opposite extremes: either minimalism or complicated mix-and-match.

Do you have special mix-and-match skills?

When I was still a student, I always wore what I felt like wearing and was expressing myself most of the time. But now, as I’m working, I pay more attention to the occasion in order to avoid embarrassment.

There is no particular skill except that you might want to highlight your look with the right shoes, accessories or make-up.

Have you ever had an embarrassing experience of dressing wrong?

I used to wear an ankle dress made of chiffon to a conference in the headquarters, and my leader asked me, with obvious concern: ‘What are you wearing?’

Who is your fashion icon?

Vivienne Westwood.

Do you have your own fans or tagalongs?

I don’t know. But there are indeed some people showing their fondness through the Internet, and there are some webmagazines inviting me to be their styling advisor.

[混搭达人]

系么？ 没有。喜欢搭配，因为我就是 喜爱美的东西，我无法接受自 己穿的不好看出门。精心打扮 是提高自信很好的办法，同时 也是对周围人的尊重。

果有的话是什么风格呢？ 没有什么固定的风格。只要是

不过因为我的经历，我喜欢 的穿衣搭配往往会是两个极 端：不是简洁的搭配就是复

Lin Wencong

好看的我都会去尝试。

In Lives

你觉得自己有比较固定的风格么？如

IN Chinese young fashion

平时喜欢搭配跟当平模的经历有关

杂的混搭。

你有自己的搭配秘诀么？ 学生时期的我基本不在乎什么 环境因素，我爱穿什么就穿什 么，算是比较自我的。但是 现在工作了，就会比较注意场 合。我觉得鞋子和包包还有一 些饰品都会是亮点，搭配的妆 容也很重要。

有过搭配不对，出糗的时候么？有的 话能不能描述一下呢，哈哈 穿着长纱裙去总部开会，领 导关心询问：“你穿的是什 么啊？”

你最喜欢的时装偶像是谁？ Vivienne Westwood。

你自己有没有小小的fans或者是风格 模仿者呢？ 不知道….不过网络上还是得到 一些朋友的支持，也有网络杂 志邀请去为他们做搭配参考。

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An Internet Shopkeeper When did you open your Internet shop on Taobao?

It was in 2008 that I really opened my own shop.

Why did you open it?

At the beginning, it was just to sell some of my unused items, but then I got more fun by sharing my favourites. So I called my shop ‘Happy Together’, which aims to express the joy of sharing.

What do you sell?

How is it going?

It’s going well as I did put my heart into it.

Does the shop have something to do with your own hobby of dressing?

Does it help you in return?

I love shopping on the Internet myself. Taobao is like a platform for all the buyers and sellers to share both things and joys.

We are actually communicating through each deal.

Clothes and accessories.

At the beginning, it was just to sell some of my unused items, but then I got more fun by sharing my favourites.

So I called my shop ‘Happy Together’, which aims to express the joy of sharing.

你什么时候开的淘宝店？ 真正开网店也得到08年吧。

为什么开？ 刚开始只是为了把自己闲置的东西

都卖些什么东西？ 衣服和配饰。

现在经营情况怎样？ 网络店只要用心~经营情况还是可以的~

IN Chinese young fashion

[淘宝店主]

卖掉，后来就喜欢把自己爱的东西 开淘宝和喜欢扮靓有关系么？也能够帮助你扮

是一起快乐，一起分享。

靓吧？ 我自己很爱网购，淘宝提供一个平台，买

In Lives

分享出来。于是叫“同乐店”，就

卖也是一种交流吧~独乐乐不如众乐乐嘛.

Lin Wencong

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Say “In bocca al lupo”to your Fashion Life Text by Song Jingbo

“狼 嘴 里 ” 的 时尚生活

“In bocca al lupo” (literally meaning “in the wolf ’s mouth”)

in Italian. People hear it from their friends when they are going to take exams or participate in interviews or, in my case, blend into the fashion air in Milan and

IN Chinese young fashion

means good luck or “break a leg”

explore it in my own way.

面意思是“在狼嘴里”，实际上是“祝你

试的时候，送上这样的祝福

，我也需要对

正在努力融入到米兰的时尚氛围并且探索 自我道路的自己说上一句。

Song Jingbo

好运”，一般会在朋友马上要考试或者面

In Lives

“In bocca al lupo”这一意大利说法的字

113

Song Jingbo 23 years old, from Jilin MA Fashion Buying student at the Marangoni Institute in Milan 宋静波 23岁，吉林人 就读于意大利马兰戈尼时尚设计学院， 时尚买手硕士课程

Typical Milanese

危险的地方才安全

The fashion school I am currently attending is one of

我就读的学校是最著名的时尚学院之

the most famous fashion schools – Istituto Marangoni.

一——马兰戈尼设计学院。注册的前一

The night before registration, I fell asleep with a hopeful chromatic-school-gate fashion preview dream for the next day. But the truth was that there was no color at all,

晚，我在第二天即将进入彩色之殿的美 丽预想中睡去，可是现实与我的设想完 全相反：我就像处于黑白电影中，寻不 到一丝色彩的痕迹。也许你可以说这样 很酷，但是当我走出电梯，看着穿梭在

you could describe that as cool, but I was totally freaking

身旁的一个个黑衣人的时候，我完全被

out when I stepped in the elevator, staring at all the dark

吓傻了。

其实，这也不算太另人惊讶。在时尚圈

spot in fashion circles – just check out most of the famous Italian luxury brands and you will find that they really don’t

里，米兰扮演的本来就不是彩色的角 色，只要看看那些意大利奢侈品牌就能 领略到了，不管他们的生活多么色彩缤 纷，他们并不喜欢在着装上体现出来。

like being colorful, even though they have such a colorful

如果你有机会去米兰的地铁里走一遭，

life.

你会发现米兰人的最爱颜色总是黑白灰

If you ever had the chance to see the subway stations in Milan, you would find that the Milanese’s favorite colours are black, white, grey, brown and navy. But as a fashionista, you can’t be so safe. Safety leads you to nowhere in fashion world.

So just break the rules, make it more dangerous, ignore those stupid ordinary eyes, then you will enter the next stage.

Song Jingbo

figures.

In Lives

it was a completely black and white movie scene. Maybe

But, actually, it isn’t surprising. Milan is really not a colorful

IN Chinese young fashion

Make it more dangerous

棕蓝。可是作为一个时尚先锋，永远也 不能太安全，因为在时尚的世界，安全 代表沉默，沉默则代表死亡。所以，忘 掉那些条条框框吧，穿得更危险些，不 用去在意那些平庸的眼光，这样才能进 入新的境界。

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Are you a tagalong?

Sometimes flying your own colors is absolutely the hardest thing to do, but the problem is whether you want to be a tagalong or lead your belief to the brink of extermination. That is a big choice, either you go beyond everyone or behind everyone.

I couldn’t help but throw a quick glance at Italian Vogue. It’s definitely a gem of fashion publishing. Every single issue can be a surprise to the readers. Sometimes you can’t even believe that they are using a black and white theme throughout the whole magazine. I think that would be impossible for American Vogue. But the luminary is the editor-in-chief of Italian Vogue, Franca Sozzani. For me, she is more like an anthropologist and sociologist who always has a bigger vision, always provides more angles for readers and always chooses to be different, not to be a tagalong. That same kind of feeling, of not being a tagalong, we can also get from another Italian editor,

跟什么别跟风

有时候，要让自己色彩飘扬的确是 件难事，但根本的问题在于，你是 否想当一个跟随者，然后让自己的 信念溺死在大流里。到底是走在别 人前面还是跟在别人后面，是一个 很重要的选择。 我禁不住要提一提意大利《Vogue》。它绝对是时尚出版物中的瑰宝。每一期都 是一个惊喜。你一定不相信他们会整整一期杂志都使用黑白风格，这个对美国 《Vogue》来说是不可能的事情。这都要归功于意大利《Vogue》的灵魂人物——主 编Franca Sozzani。对于我来说，她更像是一个有着高瞻远瞩的人类学家或者社会

Anna Piaggi. You would be amazed by the spotlight your eyes totally focused on her. Those two are my Italian fashion icons.

Anyway, not being a tagalong is actually not hard. The only way is to be yourself and follow your heart. But nowadays people feel insecure following their hearts,

IN Chinese young fashion

that follows her every time she shows up, which keeps

they always try to swim with the tide and bang--

Song Jingbo

Shopping is hard work

In Lives

tagalongs.

If you are rich, your shopping life will be easy in every big city around the world. But if you don’t have a plump wallet, well, it can be a hard work shopping in Milan.

Unlike in London or Tokyo, in Milan, if you buy cheap you dress cheap. Obviously not every Italian is rich, but they all try to dress expensively and stylishly, because when you go randomly into the metro, people will randomly analyze your cloths, it’s kind of second nature for Italians. They will see if the logo on your bag is a familiar one or your coat is perfectly sewn or your shoes are well made enough

Every Italian is your fashion supervisor, so there’s no way you can keep the pressure down. But the problem is, if you are not rich, how can you manage it? Sometimes to put a sparkle in their eyes.

Frav Shop

even for me, studying at a fashion school, the rules are harsh.

117

But I can still find some interesting shops in Milan. There 学家，总是给读者提供更多的角度，总是选 择不同而不是跟风。另外一个类似的例子， 就是意大利时尚编辑Anna

Piaggi。她每次

is a zone called Ticinese which is a favorite of young Milanese. There are some multi-brand shops there. One is

出现，都带着流光溢彩的光晕，让你的视线

WOK, which opened in 2007 in Milan’s Viale Col di Lan

无法从她的身上一开。他们是我的意大利时

This is not just a shop but also a space that encourages

尚偶像。

artists and designers to explore new forms of expression and new ideas, and it regularly hosts eclectic exhibitions

不管怎样，不做一个跟随者其实也没那么

and music events.

难。唯一的方法就是做你自己。但是现在的 人们总是不够自信，对自己的心没有安全 感，所以才选择在随波逐流。

Another is Frav, which was started in Turin in 1996 by a bunch of young designers. Every single item has interesting details and is carefully chosen. I really like this

购物是个硬工程 如果你很有钱，那不管你在哪个城市购物都 很轻松，但是如果你没有一个鼓起来的钱包 的话，在米兰购物就真的是件让人头疼的大 工程了。

shop, because I can find new pieces by young Japanese

不像是在伦敦或者是东京，在米兰，你买得

or Hong Kong designers who are good with materials,

便宜就注定穿得便宜。显然，并不是每个意

avant-garde styles, and matching colours.

大利人都很有钱，但是他们总是尝试穿得昂 贵得体又时髦。因为你偶然走进地铁，必然 会有人“偶然”地评析你的衣服，这是意大

Don’t give me that “FYI”

利人的第二天性。他们会观察你包包的牌子 是不是名牌，你的外套是不是做工精细，你 的鞋子是不是够亮眼——每个意大利人都是 你的时尚监督人，所以在这里没办法轻装上

Have you had an experience like this? You dress yourself up carefully to meet your friend, but end up with your

阵。但是问题是，如果你不够富有，那怎么 办呢？尤其是像我这样，在时尚学院上学的

IN Chinese young fashion

学生，规则就更残酷了。

不过，我还是在米兰找到了一些有趣的购物 地点。米兰的年轻人最喜欢去的一个区域叫 Ticinese，那里有一些多品牌的小店。其中 一个叫做WOK，2007在米兰的Viale

Col

di

Lana开张。这不仅仅是一个服装店，也是一 个鼓励年轻艺术家和设计师探索新的艺术表

In Lives

现形式和新想法的空间，定期会有一些不拘 一格的艺术展览和音乐活动。

Song Jingbo

119

Wok Shop

还有一个是Frav，1996年由一群 年轻的设计师在Turin市首开。

friend’s FYI (for your information)“your

这里的每一个单品都是经过精心

shoes are so out of date” or something like

挑选的，带着有趣的细节。我很

that. At that moment, you are a balloon full

喜欢这里，因为我甚至可以找到

of anger, shame, complaint and resentment.

一些年轻的日本设计师和香港设 计师的衣服，质量好，风格前卫 且色彩和谐。

You can’t wait to get a needle to puncture the balloon and release all those bad feelings.

In the fashion area, a big FYI is the last thing

我不需 要“FYI”

you want from others. OK, maybe you think different ideas are helpful to you, but trust me, it will just trash you like a pile of bullshit.

你有过这样的经验么？精心打扮

My major is fashion buyer. At a certain angle,

地去跟朋友见面，结果却遭遇了

information is the most important thing for

朋友的FYI（for your informa-

me, I have to know the trends, designers,

tion，“别说我没提醒你”或 是“供你参考”）：“你的鞋子 过时了”。这个时候，你就像一 个被愤怒、羞愧、怨念充满的气 球一样，迫不及待地想找根针扎 破这个气球，一泄郁闷。

在时尚的领域，FYI一定是你 最不想得到的东西。千万别 以为你需要不同的意见，当 事情真的发生的时候，你就 感觉自己像废物。我的专业是 时尚买手，从某种角度来说， 资讯就是我的生命。我必须要

prices,

marketing

strategies,

financial

statements, and so on. So one thing I have to do every day is to search for information.

Every morning, after I open my eyes, the first thing I do is to open the laptop, and type in style. com, wwf.com or some other websites to check out what’s new today; and every evening, before I close my eyes, the last thing I do is to finish several pages of Monocle, Fashion Magazine or some other magazines. Why should I do this? One simple reason is to avoid the ugly big FYI. I can’t allow that to happen to me. For if you do, as a fashion buyer, it means you are incompetent, it means you can lose your business. Fashion is absolutely not something casual and philanthropic, you can’t just randomly open your business, you can’t just randomly become a famous designer, you can’t even just

知道最新的潮流、设计师、价 格、市场策略、财政政策等等等

IN Chinese young fashion

等。所以我每天必须做的事情

每天早 上一睁眼，第 一件事情就是 打开电脑，然 后输入style. com，wwf.com 和其他网站来 查看今日最新 消息，晚上 如果不翻看 几页Monocle, Fashion magazine或者其他 杂志就无法安 心入睡。 就是搜索资讯：

In Lives Song Jingbo

我为什么要这样折磨自己？最简

121

单直接的原因就是要为了避免那 恐怖的FYI。我绝对不允许它发生

了，就说明，作为一个时尚买手，我是 无能的，代表着我会失去生意机会。时 尚绝对不是慈善博爱的行业，我也许可

randomly transform into a fashionista. So what can you do? Keep throwing information into your poor old head.

以随意地发展自己的事业，但是绝不可 能随意地变成一个时尚先锋。所以除了

Well, the hopeful thing is that someday you

不停地往我可怜的小脑袋里塞资讯，我

will point to the other person’s nose, give them

还能怎么办呢？

that big FYI, turn away, and spectacularly leave the dust on their face.

希望有一天，我也能指着别人的鼻子 说：“别说我没提醒你”，然后转身离 开，才不管他的脸色有多难堪。

It’s an adventure living in fashion. You have to find your own way to survive, no one helps

在时尚圈里生活，就像是一场历险。我

you. So say “in bocca al lupo” to yourself,

必须要靠自己的力量找到生存之道。所

then keep going.

以，对身在狼嘴里的自己说一句“祝你 好运”，然后继续前行。

Yingbo’s fantastic classmates

在自己身上。因为如果真的发生

In

Cities

IN Chinese young fashion

126_ 第三章：IN城市 128_ IN长沙 148_ IN上海 158_ IN伦敦

126_Chapter Three: IN Cities 128_ IN Changsha 146_ IN Shanghai 158_ IN London

// Changsha is known

// 长沙号称“娱乐之城”：

as ‘the city of entertainment’:

从湖南卫视一系列王牌娱乐

ranging from the spirit of

节目打造的“娱乐精神”，

‘entertaining the public’,

到竞争激烈的众多歌厅带来的

embodied by a series of

独树一帜的“歌厅文化”。长

well-known shows on

沙这个经济能力在全国排不

HUNAN TV, to the distinctive

入前十位的城市，在娱乐消

‘cabaret culture’ formed by

费上，尤其是精神文化消费

the cabarets competing all

却名列前茅。

over the city. Financially, Changsha doesn’t make it

自古湖湘出美女。除了皮肤

into the top ten of Chinese

好，长得靓，长沙妹子火辣

cities, but its entertainment

的性格和时髦的打扮更是加

consumption, especially

分不少。长沙算不上是中国

the spiritual culture

的时尚都市，但是长沙人却

consumption, is at the top.

的的确确是时尚之人。爱美 是女生的天性，但是长沙人

Changsha is in an area

不管男生还是女生都势必将

famous for producing

这个天性发挥到极致。

beauties. The Changshanese girls don’t only have nice skins and good-looking faces, they also have personalities as hot as their favourite seasoning – chillies – and a good sense of style. Strictly speaking, Changsha is not a fashion city, but the Changshanese are definitely among the most fashionable people in China. The saying, ‘it is the girls’ natural instinct to be beautiful’, is absolutely right, but in Changsha it applies to the guys as well.

IN Chinese young fashion

CHANGSHA

沙

IN

长

In Cities

CHANGSHA

129

130 How old are you?

20

What’s your name?

Wang

What do you do?

I just graduated from college.

How do you get fashion information?

I read fashion magazines like Rayli.

What’s important to your look?

Mix and match.

What’s your favourite entertainment?

I enjoy listing to light music.

What do you think is ‘IN’?

I think clubbing is quite ‘IN’, but I don’t do it a lot.

王小姐 20岁 应届毕业生 时尚资讯来源：瑞丽 造型重点：混搭 最爱娱乐方式：听轻音乐 对“IN”的理解：觉得泡吧很“IN”， 虽然自己不经常泡吧

131 What’s your name?

I’m Wu, and this is my boyfriend Fu. How old are you?

We are both 22.

What do you do?

We are students.

How do you get fashion information?

Cosmetic lens, because they make my eyes look bigger and brighter.

吴小姐和男友付先生 22岁 学生 造型重点：美瞳隐形眼睛，因 为能够让眼睛看上去大而有神 最爱娱乐方式：非逛街莫属 对“IN”的理解：男友的新 发型

What’s your favourite entertainment?

Shopping, definitely What do you think is ‘IN’?

My boyfriend’s new haircut, isn’t it?

132 What’s your name?

Han.

How old are you?

20

What do you do?

’m studying at university.

What’s important to your look?

Gladiator boots and tasselled shoes What’s your favourite entertainment?

I enjoy listing to light music.

What do you think is ‘IN’?

The Changshanese language

韩小姐 20岁 大学生 时尚资讯来源：欧美街拍 造型重点：罗马角斗士靴和流 苏鞋 对“IN”的理解：长沙话

133 What’s your name?

My name is Chun’e and my sister’s is Lijiao.

How old are you?

22

What do you do?

We are both graduates.

How do you get fashion information?

We buy a lot of Japanese fashion magazines, like MINA, VIVI and COCO, and we share them.

What’s important to your look?

Short skirts.

What’s your favourite entertainment?

I enjoy listing to light music.

What do you think is ‘IN’?

Being myself.

春娥和姐姐黎娇 22岁 毕业生 时尚资讯来源：日系时尚杂志： 《米娜》， 《薇昕》， 《COCO》 造型重点：短裙 对“IN”的理解：做自己

IN Cities IN Lives IN Design