YACHTING ITINERARIES 2022/23
The Art Edition
MÁLAGA
A CULTURAL EXPLOSION IN PICASSO’S BIRTHPLACE
COSTA BRAVA
DISCOVER SPAIN’S RUGGED COASTAL BEAUTY
BALEARICS
DINING IN MALLORCA; THE BIG LIST
LANZAROTE
EUROPE’S YEAR-ROUND YACHT DESTINATION
THE BAHAMAS
DEEP DIVE ON ONE OF EARTH’S MOST DESIRABLE YACHT LOCATIONS
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
RULES AND REGULATIONS, USEFUL CONTACTS AND MORE
PLUS
THE ‘SEAMAN’S BOOK’: WHAT IS IT AND SHOULD YOU GET ONE? ESTELA SHIPPING SINCE 1850 - SUPERYACHT SERVICES - MARITIME SUPPORT
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Welcome to the Mediterranean
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WELCOME
TO THE 2022/23 EDITION OF
THE Y YTIACNHERTIANRGIES! I
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t’s been an unusual and hectic couple of years since we last printed ‘The Y’, so we’re delighted to be able to bring you this newly minted edition.
It’s currently Spring 2022, with a slight delay caused by a global shortage of printing paper, as the after effects of the global pandemic continue to disrupt supply chains. However, what has seemingly not been interrupted is an enthusiasm for getting out onto the water. Here at ESTELA, we had our busiest Mediterranean season on record in the Balearics last year and, already, 2022 is shaping up to be even busier. Given the pent up demand carried over from the past two seasons, plus full order books in the new build sector, it shouldn’t really be surprising. If you have seen ‘The Y Yachting Itineraries’ before, you will know the format. In each edition we suggest different destinations you may like to visit by yacht, with ideas for things to see and do while you’re there, and the best places to eat. Even if a destination is somewhere you’ve visited before or it’s somewhere new, we guarantee we’ll show you things you didn’t already know.
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In the office we have dubbed this book the ‘Art Edition’, inspired by Málaga, the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, and Costa Brava, which Salvador Dalí called home. Barcelona and Palma de Mallorca, meanwhile, were home to Joan Miró, completing our trifecta of Spanish modern masters. We revisit Lanzarote and the Canary Islands, which are attracting strong interest from charterers, while by popular demand, we conclude this edition with a deep dive on The Bahamas. Remember, wherever you may be heading in the coming months, ESTELA is on hand to assist. Our offices are located throughout Spain and Latin America, while we have an agency and bunkering network that covers most major superyacht destinations. Whether you need a hand with anchoring regulations, passport stamping protocols or something else, we’re always here to help. Hasta luego,
James van Bregt Editor editor@estelayachting.com +34 696 59 84 03
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MÁLAGA
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MÁLAGA We visit Picasso’s birthplace, which has been undergoing a cultural explosion in recent years. It is also the home of the Mediterranean’s newest megayacht marina.
CONTENTS
BARCELONA & THE COSTA BRAVA
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For high end shopping, fine dining, culture, architecture and exciting nightlife, Barcelona has it all. Plus the landmark Picasso Museum, of course. Often overlooked, from here it is only a hop, skip and a jump to one of Spain’s most stunning coastlines, the Costa Brava. The birthplace and playground of Salvador Dalí, discover the enduring appeal of this beautiful and fascinating region.
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The Art Edition
BALEARIC ISLANDS
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The home of Joan Miró, Palma and the island of Mallorca remains as popular as ever with superyacht visitors. As the culinary scene continues to thrive, we present the ultimate restaurant list. From Michelin dining, to hip Bohemian, to local rustic, we recommend the finest places to eat. We also update our popular beaches and calas guides, with interactive maps for Ibiza and Menorca.
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LANZAROTE & CANARY ISLANDS
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THE BAHAMAS
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We visited Lanzarote with a group of captains and brokers in April 2022, to experience what this fascinating island has to offer as a superyacht destination. Shaped by the artist, architect and visionary, César Manrique, this volcanic landscape is much more than merely a transatlantic stopover. Exploring the wider Canary Islands, discover one of the world’s finest sportfishing and watersports regions and see what we think makes these islands great for cruising.
This superyacht playground is paradise on earth, with countless white and pink beaches, the clearest waters, spectacular diving and exciting sportfishing. We explore the whole region, to find the best of what’s on offer, from where to eat to what to experience.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
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MEET THE ESTELA TEAM
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Here you will find indispensable information related to the destinations featured in this edition, from useful local numbers and marina details to anchorage guidance and local regulations for diving, fishing and jet skis.
These are your contacts who can assist you, wherever you are in the world. We speak many languages, have many years of experience and our connections are global. And we’re a pretty good-looking bunch, even if we say so ourselves! Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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INDEX OF PARTNERS & ADVERTISERS Alcaidesa Marina ...............................64 Alcudiamar .......................................129 Almas Marinas .................................166 Anchor Concierge & Super Yacht Services .............................................277 Antigua Yacht Club Marina & Resort .................................... 282-283 Argentario Yacht Services ...............66 Arpeca ............................................... 2-3 Artemis Yachting Agency in Sicily .............................................278 Astilleros de Mallorca .....................287 AYSS Superyacht Global Network .................. Back Cover Azimouthio .......................................201 Balearic Marine Cluster ....................15 British Surgery of Lanzarote .........212 Cabbs ...................................................12 Charter Itinerary .............................190 Club de Vela Puerto de Andratx ...147 Coral Marine ....................................146 Delicioso ...........................................301 Diaz & Asociados Lawyers ..............333 Es Baluard Museo ............................102 Falcao Uno ........................................167 Fera Palma Restaurant ........... 118-119 Fronda................................................291 GRD Inox ................. Inside Back Cover IGY Málaga Marina ..................... 32-33 Incargo Group ..................................214 Juaneda Hospitales ..........................305
Leth Agencies ........................... 342-343 LM Stabilizer & Hydraulic Engineering ......................................213 Málaga Ciudad Genial .....................344 Moncada Hispania Boutique ...........83 Nuevos Puertos Deportivos ...........148 Ocean Independence ...................... 4-5 Osifar .................................................279 Oyster Ibiza ......................................149 Port Adriano ........................................1 Port Tarraco .......................................65 Progrés Pharmacy ...........................304 Puerto Portals ..................................105 Puertos de Las Palmas ....................215 Roalnautic - Marina Las Palmas ....215 Seastar Shipping Agency .................67 Serviport Balear ..............................306 Superyacht Provisions ...................280 Termopetroli ........................................9 Tito Bosch Photographer ...............341 Transfer Class ..................................303 Turismo Lanzarote .......Inside Front Cover Vannucci Maritime Group .............281 VMG Refit & Repair ...........................45 Yachtshot .........................................181 To advertise with us or partner in our events, get in touch: +34 971 722 532 palma@estelashipping.net
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Dalí, Picasso? What the heck is that about? Yes, what do these surrealist masters have to do with the superyacht industry? Let us explain… Regular readers of ‘The Y Yachting Itineraries’ will have noticed that we like to theme our guides each year. And if you’ve worked with us at ESTELA, you will know that we try not to take ourselves too seriously. We work in a fun business, right? Even if it feels a little ‘surreal’ at times.
The destinations featured in this edition include Málaga, Barcelona and the Costa Brava, Lanzarote, The Bahamas, and, as ever, Mallorca and the Balearics. Of course, Málaga was the birthplace of Picasso, while Barcelona was his spiritual home. Dalí hails from Figueres on the Costa Brava, where he lived it up for most of his life. Each of these destinations is closely associated with a prominent artist --Lanzarote with César Manrique; Mallorca with Joan Miró; The Bahamas with Brent Malone -- so we think of this guide as the ‘Art Edition’. It seemed fun to imagine Picasso and Dalí on a yacht together, cruising the Mediterranean coast that inspired them both, working and partying hard. So, for
the photoshoot, we were lucky enough to borrow our very own yacht for the day, a 1965 De Voogt, M/Y Falcao Uno. This 26-metre classic was built for the Belgian royal family and is berthed in Palma, where she can be chartered for day trips and special events. Our pages feature the two artists on board, calling on their favoured yacht agency, ESTELA, to supply everything they need. Our ‘models’ are our very own Kristy, Aixa and Silvia, based in Palma, and Gemma from our Barcelona office. Other colleagues were happy to dodge the cameras… And if the final result seems a bit surreal, well, that’s exactly the point!
MÁLAGA
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MÁLAGA
n our Andalusia itinerary of 2018, we touched on Málaga’s emergence as a burgeoning cultural centre. The 3,000 year-old city has a long, colourful history, of course, and Pablo Picasso’s birthplace has always had its fair share of museums and arts venues. As a candidate city to host EXPO2027, Málaga has poured a great deal of investment into its tourism infrastructure, and it shows. Mention the ‘Soho district’ or the ‘Pompidou centre’ and you’d think we’re talking about London, Paris or New York, but Málaga has both. This is a vibrant Mediterranean city that is now frequently mentioned in the same breath as Madrid and Barcelona. The city is going from strength to strength, underscored by a brand new superyacht marina, operated by IGY
Marinas, opened in April 2022. So, it is timely to revisit Málaga and delve into everything the city has to offer as a destination in its own right, with a full one- or two-day programme that has something for everyone.
OLD TOWN The labyrinthian Centro Histórico is mostly pedestrianised, making the old town a delight to explore on foot. It’s an atmospheric warren of cobbled streets and squares, lined with attractive buildings, shops and cafés. The smartest shopping avenue in town is Calle Marqués de Larios, which feels upscale, but stores are more High Street than Bond Street. It leads to Plaza de la Constitución, a grand square with central fountain that is one of the city’s focal points. Nearby stands the cathedral, affectionately
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known as ‘La Manquita’, or the onearmed lady. Construction finished in the late 18th century when the budget ran out, before the second bell tower could be added. Built on the site of a former mosque, its original courtyard ‘Patio de los Naranjos’ remains, planted with customary orange trees. Guided tours include a 200-step climb to the roof, with views across the city. Parque de la Alameda is a peaceful city retreat with more than 360 varieties of plants and flowers, statues, fountains and bird life, making a lovely spot for a walk and to take in the local atmosphere. Lovers of botanical gardens should head 5km north of the city to Jardín Botánico Histórico La Concepción, which contains the largest collection of subtropical plants in Europe. The gardens are a little off the beaten track, but it is a tropical oasis of fountains and waterfalls among
a huge range of palm trees, bamboo and exotic plants. Mercado Central de Atarazanas is an indoor fresh food market, offering a dazzling array of local produce, as well as cafés and tapas bars to sample some of the delicacies on offer. The market is on the tourist trail, so it can get busy. The best churros and coffee in town are at Casa Aranda next door. For a more authentic market experience, or for chefs looking for provisions, head for Mercado El Carmen, near María Zambrano station. The El Perchel neighbourhood, outside the city walls, is named after the hangers used by fishermen to dry fish. The building is less ornate, but merchants will cook your selection on the spot and you can enjoy the freshest tapas on the terrace outside. A short guided visit to Teatro
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Romano, a Roman amphitheatre, is highly recommended, also taking in La Alcazaba next door. The theatre, from the first century CE, was uncovered in 1951, ironically while digging the foundations for a new cultural centre. The 11th century Moorish palace-fortress was built by the Hammudid dynasty, and is almost like the Alhambra in miniature. Its typical Al-Andalus style arched doorways and lush manicured gardens, patios, ponds and fountains provide a glimpse of life in a grand Arab palace. Overlooking La Alcazaba and the surrounding area is Gibralfaro Castle, a pleasant 25-minute walk up a winding path. The fort was built in the first century CE by the Caliph of Cordoba, on a former Phoenician enclosure. The Sultan of Granada
enlarged it in the 14th century, to house troops charged with protecting the palace, adding two lines of walls and eight watch towers. There is a small museum with various military paraphernalia and depictions of daily life in the castle. The liveliest time to visit Málaga is during Holy Week, in the lead up to Easter. Over the course of the week, some 40 religious processions pass through the centre in a colourful spectacle. The celebrations start in the afternoon and, in true Spanish tradition, continue well into the early hours of the morning. Alameda Principal, Calle Larios and Calle Granada are the best places to watch them. If you are intending to visit around Easter, plan ahead, as the city gets very busy, with berths and restaurants booked up long in advance.
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SOHO In sharp contrast with Málaga’s ancient architecture is the Soho barrio, including the MAUS (Málaga Arte Urbano Soho) street art district. Here, giant murals adorn the walls of numerous buildings and tower blocks in what was a drab part of the city, near the commercial docks. What started as a one-off project in 2013 has become a vibrant, bohemian part of town, filled with hipster cafes and flea markets, drawing renowned graffiti artists from far and wide.
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Scan the QR code for an interactive MAUS map, directing visitors to the most notable works.
MUSEUMS While Pablo Picasso may have left his heart in Barcelona, he had expressed his desire for a permanent exhibition here. Opened 20 years ago, with the endorsement of his family, Museo Picasso Málaga holds a permanent collection spanning eight decades, comprising 220 works by the artist. The Museum is set in a grand 16th century house and courtyard, displaying a range of canvasses, sketches and sculptures, as well as visiting exhibitions by other modern artists. To learn more about Picasso
the man, the house in which he was born is also a museum. Museo Casa Natal de Picasso is just a five-minute walk away, not far from MAUS. Full of photographs and memorabilia, it documents his upbringing from childhood to world famous artist. There is also a mock-up of his father’s studio. The museum is managed by Fundación Picasso, which also operates the Sala de Exposiciones, across the square, with more works by Picasso and other contemporaries. The Carmen Thyssen Museum
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important museum in the region and among the largest in Spain, filled with archaeological finds and 19th century Andalusian fine art. The renovated Palacio de Aduana building is worth visiting, with its peaceful patio garden and tall palms. Museo Ruso de Málaga is a branch of the Russian State Museum in St Petersburg, with an annually rotating exhibition of a vast collection of Russian art. Famous names include Marc Chagall, Wassily Kandinsky and Ilya Repin, while exhibits also offer a great insight into Russian history and culture. is a sister gallery to the ThyssenBornemisza Museum in Madrid and centres around a large collection of Andalucian and 19th century Spanish paintings. Set in Palacio Villalón, a 16th century noble home with beautiful arched ceilings, the museum also hosts a wide variety of visiting exhibitions. Next to the cathedral is ARS Málaga, a museum space with religious art, coins and temporary exhibitions. Housed in the Bishop’s Palace, the building alone is worth a glance for its ornately decorated interior, as is the garden. Museo de Málaga is the most
The Centre Pompidou Málaga is the first foreign branch of the Parisian institution, set in a lowslung building ‘El Cubo’, for the striking, multicoloured glass cube on its roof. Opened in 2015, rotating contemporary exhibitions include works by the likes of Bacon, Kahlo, Ernst and Picasso. i If it seems as though Picasso’s works are everywhere, note that the artist is estimated to have produced some 50,000 works in his lifetime; more than any major artist. Centro de Arte Contemporáneo, or CAC Málaga, is located in a converted Wholesalers’ Market on the river bank,
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containing radical contemporary pieces and installations designed to provoke. Museo Revello de Toro is a small museum dedicated to the work of Málaga artist Félix Revello de Toro, renowned for his striking portraits in oil. The museum is housed in the 17th century home of religious sculptor Pedro de Mena, whose workshop remains on display. Set in a stunning 18th century palatial house, with no less than three patios, is the glass museum, Museo del Vidrio y Cristal. Housing more than a thousand items of glass and crystal, as well as antiques and carpets, it is the private collection of aristo, Gonzalo Fernández-Prieto. The art historian
made his money in London’s febrile property market of the 80s and 90s, enabling him to indulge his passion for glass and ancient artefacts. An unusual, but inspired, attraction is the Museo Automovilistico & de la Moda, or MAM. Set in a former tobacco factory, the museum marries cars and fashion, in a combination that seems odd, but works exceedingly well. It houses around a hundred immaculately restored vehicles and more than 300 pieces of haute couture, chronicling their evolution from the end of the 19th century to the current day. Exhibits include a 1898 ‘Winner’, a 1910 steam car, an aeroplane car, a 2010 hydrogen
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prototype and a solar car, as well as classics by Jaguar, Bugatti, Rolls Royce, Aston Martin, Mercedes, Porsche and Ferrari. Matching fashions are from Dior, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy, accompanied by hats and accessories. The newest addition to Málaga’s long list of museums (and we haven’t listed them all!) is the Museum of the Imagination. This interactive space is especially recommended for families, with many scientific and optical illusions to try out. Bringing a camera
is encouraged, enabling you to take some fun and highly unusual photos to share. Another favourite with youngsters is the interactive music museum, or MIMMA. Its walls are adorned with many unusual instruments from around the world, taking you on a musical journey, from the bongo drums of Africa to guitars of Andalucía. As well as viewing some fascinating exhibits, visitors are welcome to play many of them. The venue also hosts flamenco shows in the afternoon. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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To learn more about flamenco, head to Peña Juan Breva, a flamenco club and museum over two floors. While flamenco is most associated with Seville, Málaga has its own illustrious music and dance heritage. See an impressive collection of photographs, posters, costumes, fans and instruments, then head down to the tablao, or stage, for a close up demonstration. For an evening of flamenco and drinks, Kelipé is the best venue in town. It is tiny and no-frills, but with top performers on stage Thursday to Sunday. For performing arts, Málaga is home to no less than seven theatres, staging operatic and classical productions, as well as contemporary music and dance.
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IGY MALAGA MARINA Opened in April 2022, IGY Malaga Marina is a brand new superyacht facility for 31 yachts between 20m and 180m, with a depth of 9m, able to receive the largest of motor and sailing yachts. For more information, scan the QR code or contact Óscar Calero on +34 699 989 631, or email oscar.calero@ igymarinas.com. Visit igymarinas.com for details of IGY’s global network.
The Málaga waterfront has undergone a transformation in recent years, with the opening of the Pompidou Centre and a pedestrian boulevard, Muelle 1, with boutiques, bars and restaurants. The latest addition is Muelle 2, a futuristic canopied walkway and park, ‘Palmeral de las Sorpresas’, making an attractive spot for a walk or a run, starting here and along the city beaches.
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OLD HAUNTS For an altogether more rustic experience, visit Antigua Casa de Guardia, the oldest bar in Málaga that once counted Picasso among its regulars, so the legend goes. True or not, grumpy staff will draw your wine or tipple directly from the stacked oak barrels behind the bar, chalking up your bill on the well worn wooden counter. Basic tapas are available too. It’s an unforgettable little place and an Instagram must, of course (antiguacasadeguardia.com) Another renowned old haunt is El Pimpi, set in a labyrinthian warren of rooms in an 18th century house. Part-owned by famous ‘malagueño’, the actor Antonio Banderas, this local
favourite has been open since 1971, with the great and the good having graced its tables. Wine barrels are autographed by famous visitors and while service can be hit and miss, for atmosphere this place is hard to beat. The terrace has views of La Alcazaba, while the courtyard patio is particularly lovely (elpimpi.com). If you’re thirsty after visiting Museu Picasso, tea lovers should seek out La Tetería, a Moroccan tea room in a narrow side street nearby. It is reminiscent of the city’s Moorish heritage with colourful lampshades, ornate teapots and a large selection of teas and homemade cakes and baklava.
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DINING OUT Andalucians are proud of their produce and food heritage, so good restaurants are to be found all over town. Here are some of the best.
José Carlos García*
Ta-Kumi
Conveniently located directly next to IGY Malaga Marina, this is the city’s sole Michelin-starred restaurant with a large outdoor terrace, serving innovative cuisine using mostly local ingredients.
Adjacent to La Alcazaba, Ta-Kumi is the Málaga branch of its sister restaurant in Marbella, serving first class Japanese dishes à la carte or in set menus. On a fine day, request a seat on the terrace overlooking the palace.
+34 952 00 35 88 restaurantejcg.com
Kaleja
+34 952 60 00 00 restaurantekaleja.com In a quiet side street in the old Jewish quarter is this unassuming restaurant, with a minimalist, modern interior. Classic countryside dishes are reinterpreted and presented in a single menu of 16 immaculately sculpted, small courses.
+34 952 06 00 79 restaurantetakumi.com
Balausta
+34 952 21 60 00 restaurantebalausta.com Set in a beautifully restored 18th century palatial house in the old Jewish quarter, the kitchen at the boutique Palacio Solecio hotel is overseen by the Michelin-starred José Carlos García. Serving unfussy 0km cuisine in a stunning atrium space.
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GIBRALTAR
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or the vast majority of yachts, Gibraltar is little more than a functional stop while entering or departing the Mediterranean, or for exiting the EU for customs purposes. The greatest attractions are the cheapest yacht fuel in the region, as well as a large branch of the British supermarket and pharmacy chain, Morrisons. Rarely are guests on board here, though ‘The Rock’ does have some points of interest for crew stopping off. Many civilisations and cultures have occupied the promontory over thousands of years, so there are plenty of ancient artefacts and architectural remains to visit.
The Gibraltar Museum houses a fascinating array of cultural and natural history collections, prints,
paintings, drawings and objects from 127,000 years ago to the present day. Parts of the building date back to the 14th century and its Moorish Baths are some of the finest remains of the period in the Iberian Peninsula. The museum’s displays include ‘Nana and Flint’, two forensic reconstructions of a woman and child, based on two Neanderthal skulls found in Gibraltar in 1848 and 1926.
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The fortifications on the site of the Moorish Castle were first built before 1160, before being destroyed when the Spanish re-conquered Gibraltar in 1309. The Tower of Homage, its main feature, dates from the 8th century and is a symbol of Muslim rule in mediaeval Spain. It was rebuilt after the Islamic ruler of the Emirate of Granada recaptured the Rock in 1333. Given Gibraltar’s military history, the territory has many monuments and memorials marking its role in conflicts and lives lost. They include the American War Memorial, erected by the US to mark the achievements and comradeship of the American and British Navies during the first and second World Wars. As a military stronghold, Gibraltar is famous for its World War II Tunnels, totalling 52 kilometres in length. An underground mini city was constructed by the British, large enough to house a garrison of 16,000
men, with enough supplies to last 16 months. There was an underground telephone exchange, a power generating station, a water distillation plant, a hospital, a bakery, ammunition magazines and a vehicle maintenance workshop. Tunnel tours must be booked in advance (rocktoursgibraltar.com). Gibraltar’s mercantile links with North Africa drew a large number of Jewish merchants after the British first occupied the peninsula in 1704, and today remains home to a large Jewish community. There are four 18th century synagogues, of which the Flemish and Great Synagogues are the finest examples. Guided tours are available (+350 200 76477). The old Jewish Cemetery, used up until 1848, reflects the importance of the role Jewish people played in shaping the territory’s history (+350 200 71648). Barbary Macaques are synonymous with Gibraltar and are its most
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popular tourist attraction. Commonly referred to as apes, they are in fact a type of tailless monkey. The Barbary Macaque is the only species native to Africa. On the Rock, they can be seen in the wild in their natural habitat. Just beware that they are very used to visitors, so are unafraid of getting up close and personal with unsuspecting tourists. Most of the peninsula’s dining and entertainment is centred around Casemates Square, at the northern end of Main Street. The area is lined with numerous standard restaurants, cafés and bars, and is where cultural events,
concerts and military parades are held. Ocean Village Marina is one of three marinas in Gibraltar and houses both of its casinos. Sunborn Casino is located aboard a moored cruise ship hotel. The ideal base to berth for an extended stay, or while in transit, Alcaidesa Marina is located in the Strait of Gibraltar, directly adjacent to the airport. The sheltered marina and boatyard, next to the western slopes of Gibraltar, offers deep water access in all weather conditions with berths of up to 100 metres. (+34 956 021 660 marina@alcaidesa.com alcaidesamarina.com)
We supply whatever your vessel needs
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MELILLA
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n attractive alternative to Gibraltar as a fuel stop is Melilla, the Spanish city on the Mediterranean coast of Morocco.
After a chequered history that includes a Phoenician, Roman, Greek, Vandal, Berber and Carthaginian past, the city was finally conquered by the Spanish monarchy in 1497. Melilla became an important fortified stop for sailors and merchants and has been governed since 1862 as an autonomous territory. Even though part of Spain
and in the EU, Melilla is a free port, putting it outside of the Customs Union for clearance purposes and making it VAT-exempt. From the beginning of 2022, its fuel duties have been slashed too, putting yacht fuel prices on a par with those in Gibraltar, while the VAT exemption makes it an effective point from which to charter.
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Melilla is also a great proposition for yachts wintering, as an attractive city with a warm climate and good flight connections to the rest of Europe. For owners or guests flying in, there is a private airport a stone’s throw outside the city limits, in Morocco. Maritime facilities are comprehensive and up-to-date, with a ferry terminal handling four sailings daily and a number of sheltered and secure marinas offering all the services to be expected from any modern European port. State-of-the-art security and
monitoring systems are the most advanced to be found anywhere in Spain. The port’s docks are up to 250 metres in length, with a 8m depth, while berths are the cheapest in Spain. As a place to spend time in the off-season, Melilla is an attractive, vibrant city, with lots of interesting architecture and a great food scene. There are no Michelin stars, but there is a wide variety of restaurants offering notable regional cuisine and high quality traditional tapas.
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A N O L E BARTCHE
A V A R B A T S CO
AND
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BARCELONA AND
THE COSTA BRAVA
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tretching north from Barcelona to the Pyrenees and the French border, the Costa Brava is beautiful and, curiously, rather overlooked as a superyacht destination. The scenic, rugged coastline offers sandy beaches, quiet coves, clear waters, fantastic diving, picturesque villages and some of the best cuisine in the whole of Spain. Rich in history and culture, this has been a get-away-from-it-all retreat for
Hollywood actors, musicians, writers and artists since the 1950s. Close proximity to Barcelona, Girona and Perpignan means the Costa Brava is easily accessible for guests, while numerous marinas can accommodate yachts up to 60m. Better still, ESTELA’s superyacht team in Barcelona are on hand to provide whatever you and your guests might need, making this the perfect cruising destination.
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BARCELONA
PICASSO & MIRÓ
Pablo Ruiz Picasso was born in 1881 in Malaga and spent his childhood mostly in France and Galicia, before his parents settled in Barcelona in 1895, where his creative genius blossomed. He returned after completing formal studies in Madrid, opening his first solo exhibition here in 1900. Picasso left for Paris in 1905 and would not live in Barcelona again, though the mutual love affair between city and artist remained unbroken. He holidayed regularly in Catalunya, staying with friends in Cadaques, one of whom sponsored a young painter, Salvador Dalí, 23 years Picasso’s junior. Picasso died aged 91 at his villa in Mougins and lies buried in the grounds of his private estate at Vauvenargues Castle, in Aix-en-Provence.
Born twelve years after Picasso, in Barcelona’s Gothic quarter, Joan Miró i Ferrà would also enrol at La Llotja fine arts academy, as the master had done some years earlier. Miró’s and Picasso’s mothers were friends and he followed his idol to Paris, where Picasso would become the first buyer of one of the impoverished young artist’s works. “There are many painters chasing the stars of the sky, but the only one who has caught them is Joan Miró”, Picasso once remarked.
tiful “Barcelona, the beau ft so many and wise, where I le the altar of things hanging on Picasso, 1936 happiness…” Pablo
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Miró had initially attended business school, to please his family, but left before completing his studies. He was an idealist and moralist who became disheartened by the art scene in Paris. “A visit to Picasso’s studio made my spirit sink”, he wrote in a letter. “Everything is done for his dealer, for the money. A visit to Picasso is like visiting a ballerina with a number of lovers…”. He had a similar disdain for commercial art by the likes of Henri Matisse and, later, Salvador Dalí. Miró would continue to spend summers in Catalonia, before settling with his wife in Palma de Mallorca, where he died aged 90. He lies buried in Montjuïc Cemetery in Barcelona.
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HISTORY The city of Barcelona was founded by the Romans, setting up the colony of ‘Barcino” at the end of the 1st century BC, with around a thousand inhabitants living inside its walls. For over 200 years it was under Muslim rule and, after the Christian reconquest, it became part of the Frankish Carolingian Empire, under the Crown of Aragon. Falling into decline from the 13th century onwards, it was the emergence of a booming textile industry in the mid-18th century that brought a renaissance, establishing
Catalonian and Catalan as the prominent culture and language. Expansion of the city beyond its walls began in 1860, led by urban planner and engineer, Ildefonso Cerdá. The project urbanised the area around the old town, swallowing up nearby villages such as Gràcia. Modernism took hold in the twentieth century, with architects including Gaudi, Domènech i Montaner and Puig i Cadafalch putting their stamp on the Eixample district, where most of their signature buildings can be found.
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ART & CULTURE Barcelona counts some 20 art museums. The most-visited is Museu Picasso, tracing Picasso’s early years, with canvases and ceramics from the 1890s to his Blue Period, through the Rose Period and on to his later work in the 1950s. While many of the works were donated by the artist himself, Picasso never saw the museum, having vowed to never set foot in Spain while Franco was in power. Back outside the museum, the narrow Carrer Montcada is lined with mediaeval, renaissance and baroque
palazzos, their grand doorways opening onto beautiful courtyards. This is the street where the city’s noblemen lived through the ages, tracing back to the 12th century. Turning left from the museum, heading towards Passeig del Born, you will come to the new Modern Contemporary Museum, or Moco, a sister museum to Moco Amsterdam. Opened only in 2021, Moco houses works by Warhol, Basquiat, Hirst, Haring, KAWS, Yayoi Kusama, Banksy and, not least, Salvador Dalí.
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At the bottom of C/ Montcada is Passeig del Born, an atmospheric neighbourhood with small bars and cafés, local shops and independent boutiques. For more art, take the scenic route, via the cable car, to Montjuïc Park. Here, Museu
Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC) is the grandest of Barcelona’s museums, home to a huge range of important Catalan works from the Middle Ages to the 1900s. Its most notable collection is a range of Romanesque works, which is one of the
world’s most important concentrations of early mediaeval art. If mediaeval religious iconography isn’t your thing, head for the first floor modern art exhibition, featuring Picasso, Dalí and Ramon Casas. As a bonus, the rooms also contain furniture by Gaudi.
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For more Catalan modern art, Fundació Joan Miró was the artist’s gift to the city. This varied collection is housed in a striking, avant-garde piece of architecture by his friend Josep Lluís Sert. Miró also spent much time in Mallorca, donating works to the eponymous gallery in Palma, where his studio can be seen as he left it. Miró married and lived in Palma up to his death in 1983, aged 90. Also in Montjuïc Park is CaixaForum, housing an extensive private collection of international contemporary artists and temporary exhibitions, as well as permanent displays by Spanish artists Tàpies and Barceló. Museu Marítim de Barcelona, reopened in 2014, is worth a visit and
celebrates the city’s history and its connection with the sea. Football (soccer) fans may want to head to FC Barcelona’s stadium, Camp Nou. Take a tour and visit the club museum with an enormous range of photographs, trophies and memorabilia, as well as audiovisual and multimedia installations. In performance art, Barcelona is also spoiled for choice with some 40 venues hosting opera to stand-up comedy. Theatres range from El Gran Teatre del Liceu, the world famous 1840s opera house, to the home of cabaret, El Molino. Worth visiting for the architecture alone is the masterful art nouveau auditorium, Palau de la Música Catalana, completed in 1908, by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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SIGHTSEEING Barcelona is the city of architects Antoni Gaudí, Lluís Domènech and Josep Puig. Even if not tempted by the shopping, head for Passeig de Gràcia, between C/ Consell de Cent and C/ Aragó, for three art nouveau classics, Casa Lleó Morera, Casa Amatller and Casa Batlló. On the corner of C/ Provença stands Casa Milà. From here, head east to Avinguda Diagonal, and proceed on to Barcelona’s most iconic landmark, the Sagrada Família, still a work in
progress, having begun construction in 1882. A few blocks away, due north of here, stands the Modernist complex of Sant Pau Recinte Modernista, the most important architectural work by Domènech. Barcelona’s 15th century Gothic cathedral and the surrounding Gothic Quarter are worth looking around, as well as the remains of the Roman wall on the corner of C/ del Bisbe. A short walk away stands the Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, which
Tip: If visiting Park Güell at busy times, it’s worth booking ahead, as access to the park is time-limited.
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inspired the book “The Cathedral of the Sea”, the 2006 historical novel by Spanish author Ildefonso Falcones. A TV adaptation, of the same title, is currently streaming on Netflix. Nearby is Plaça Sant Jaume, where City Hall and Palau de la Generalitat are on opposing sides of the square. While there are many notable parks and pieces of architecture worth visiting, one site stands head and shoulders above the rest, Park Güell. Situated on a hillside to the north of the city centre (take a taxi), the park had been acquired in 1900 by Count Eusebi Güell, a Catalonian
entrepreneur, who commissioned Gaudí to design an estate of some 60 homes. The playful, urban park was to have a complex network of paths and viaducts in landscaped grounds, with the architect having free rein to produce a unique ‘mini city’ for affluent residents. The project flopped, though not before Gaudí had completed large parts, including 3km of paths, greens, covered walkways, statues and a number of fascinating buildings, adorned with mosaic tiling. The house occupied by Gaudí himself while he was working here is now a small museum, including items of furniture he designed.
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Nearer the centre of town, close to Port Vell Marina, lies Parc Ciutadella. The ornate Arc de Triomf stands at the entrance to the park, built for Barcelona’s Universal Exhibition in 1888. The park is 70 acres of calm green space, which also houses the zoo, the Museum of Natural Sciences and the Catalan parliament. The Cascada fountain has echoes of Rome’s Trevi fountain and is the park’s focal point, but its ponds, paths and sculptures make it a lovely place where there’s always something happening on a sunny day. Near the Castle of the Three Dragons at the western entrance to the park, stands an unusual monument, in the form of a glass cube standing in running water. Commissioned in 1981, ‘Tribute to Picasso’ by artist Antoni Tapies, the cube contains some furniture with white sheets draped over. Written on the sheets are some quotes attributed to Picasso, notably “A painting is not intended to decorate a drawing room. It is instead a weapon of attack and defence against the enemy”.
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TIBIDABO AMUSEMENT PARK If travelling with children, consider a visit to Tibidabo, one of the world’s oldest amusement parks (1901), standing on the Collserola hills. The views from here are fabulous, while its old school rides have a classic charm. One drawback is the lack of ‘fast passes’ and during school holidays the wait for rides can be long.
SHOPPING The best high end shopping areas in central Barcelona are Passeig de Gracia, starting at Plaça Cinc d’Oros, heading south-east towards the port, taking in Carrer de la Portaferrissa, Carrer de la Boqueria and Carrer de Ferran, finishing up at Placa de Sant Josep Oriol. Cutting across the centre of town,
Avinguda Diagonal is home to other big name designer boutiques, while in the Gothic quarter, Portal de l’Àngel is lined with high street names, but also local and individual stores with clothing and accessories that are perhaps more accessible.
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For antique shops, visit Bulevard dels Antiquaris, with dozens of shops selling furnishings, paintings and collectibles. For jewellery and artsy window shopping, head for Carrer de Montcada, while Carrer del Call is lined with little jewellery stores. For luxury jewellery brands, Passeig de Gracia is the place to go. Foodies should check out La Boqueria market for a taste of Catalan produce and colourful local life.
For more of a local experience, away from the tourist crowds, you should head to the Gracia neighbourhood, where millennials and hipsters hang out. Quiet, narrow streets and leafy squares make the area feel like a village in its own right, which it was until 1860. Think small art galleries, independent stores, bookshops, vegan bakeries, coffee shops and vegetarian eateries. Gracia lies north of Ave Diagonal, with Sagradia Familia at the southeastern corner and Parc Güell at the northern end.
DINING OUT There are, of course, hundreds of great places to eat in Barcelona. To keep it simple, here are the finest handful, according to the latest listings in the Michelin guide.
ABaC***
Disfrutar**
+34 933 19 66 00 abacrestaurant.com
+34 933 48 68 96 disfrutarbarcelona.com
Lasarte***
Enoteca Paco Pérez**
Angle**
Cocina HNOS. Torres**
Moments**
Cinc Sentits**
+34 934 45 32 42 restaurantlasarte.com +34 932 16 77 77 anglebarcelona.com +34 931 51 87 81
+34 934 83 81 08 enotecapacoperez.com
+34 934 10 00 20 cocinahermanostorres.com +34 933 23 94 90 cincsentits.com
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Expand your horizons Itineraries and route planning
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COSTA BRAVA
LLORET DE MAR
Just a 25-minute drive from Girona airport (LEGE), Lloret de Mar is a convenient embarkation point. This popular resort boasts five blue flag beaches and while the most popular can get busy, there are spots that tend to be quiet. Lloret’s coastal path and the clifftop Santa Clotilde botanical gardens are wonderful to explore on foot, with views over many coves and inlets that are best accessed by boat. Waters here are clear and are popular for sailing, kayaking and paddle surfing. The town itself has a rich history dating back as far as 966, as a prosperous Iberian fishing village. This prosperity was boosted immeasurably by a royal decree in 1778, permitting trade with the Americas. Many seafarers set off west towards Cuba, to return with riches that were flaunted by commissioning extravagant homes in the vogue, Modernist style. A good example of the style is Lloret’s 1901 cemetery, featuring sculptures with dragons clutching skulls, or shaped like maidens ecstatically wreathed in roses. There are works by important sculptors and architects such as Josep Puig and Vicenç Artigas.
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Other notable buildings are Sant Romà parish church, the Chapel of Baptistery and Chapel of the Holy Sacrament with intricate mosaics, tiled turrets and sandstone walls. Aside from a small number of cultural and architectural high spots, the town centre is about shopping and entertainment. Lloret is known as a party town and there are many lively bars and nightclubs, for those looking to let their hair down. Restaurants are mostly geared towards tourists, though there are some fine dining options too:
Mas Romeu
+34 972 367 963 masromeu.com Away from the centre, this family-run restaurant offers an extensive à la carte menu, with grilled meats, fish, seafood, stews and house specialities.
Sant Pere del Bosc
+34 972 361 248
Located in a forest, this elegant, family-run hotel restaurant serves updated versions of ancient regional dishes, in a dining room that feels like a private art gallery.
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TOSSA DE MAR A fortified mediaeval town, standing on a stunning piece of Costa Brava coastline, Tossa’s charms are obvious. The Modernist painter, Marc Chagall, was among many notable visitors, calling Tossa de Mar a ‘blue paradise’ after holidaying here in 1934. Ava Gardner smiles in Tossa while The village also came to the atSinatra lights a cigarette tention of Hollywood in 1950, when ‘Pandora and the Flying Dutchman’ was filmed here over four weeks in 1950. The movie starred James Mason and Ava Gardner, whose statue stands here, looking down over the bay. Tossa’s documented history reaches back as far as 881 CE, when Iberian settlers named it Turissa, though prehistoric remains found here date back to Neolithic
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times, 4000 years BC. Fortification came in the 12th century with the construction of a castle and perimeter walls and the town was declared a national monument in 1931, standing intact, unharmed by major conflicts through the ages. The picturesque seafront, old cobbled streets and historic buildings appear frozen in time, transporting visitors to a bygone age. Its sheltered bay, flanked by secluded coves, draws many holidaying families to its beaches, but tourism is low level and it rarely feels overly crowded. The best views of the town and Tossa’s Cape are from the lighthouse, reached via the narrow alleyways behind the fortified walls that were built to repel Barbary pirates. Remaining inside the walls, saunter around the old town, ‘Vila Vella’. This historic area has been carefully restored and is like a living museum with its coats of arms and some eighty houses from Gothic, Roman and mediaeval times. The area outside of the walls, Roqueta, is where fishermen still ply their trade and where you will find numerous restaurants serving the freshest seafood.
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Of course we can!
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Just behind the town lie the ruins of a Roman villa, Els Ametllers, built in 1BC, with well-preserved features such as a thermal area and mosaiced floors. For a complete history of Tossa, visit the small municipal museum, founded in 1935 to showcase works by visiting artists to the area. Set in a 14th century mansion, it houses paintings, sculptures and artefacts, including works by Olga Sacharoff, Chagall, André Masson, Jean Metzinger and Georges Kars. There are restaurants aplenty in Tossa, these are some of the best: La Cuina de Can Simón * +34 972 34 12 69 cuinacansimon.com Tucked away in the old town, this Michelin-starred restaurant focuses on seafood, à la carte or in a ten-course tasting menu. Pou de la Vila +34 649 24 20 41 Family-run local restaurant that serves high quality dishes with flair.
The menu is on the short side, though it provides for seafood and meatlovers equally. Can Sophia +34 972 343 536 hotelcasagranados.com Named for Sophia Loren (who is not known to have visited Tossa), this Italian restaurant is a crowd pleaser, with a wide-ranging menu from land and sea.
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SANT FELIU DE GUÍXOLS Aside from a marina that can accommodate yachts up to 75m, one of the main attractions of ‘SFG’ is some classic Modernist architecture on display. An old fishing port, the town’s affluence stems from a vibrant cork logging industry, boosted by tourism after Hollywood came knocking in the 1950s. SFG has some fine beaches and coves, as well as a bustling pedestrianised centre with lots of small shops, restaurants and terraces to peruse.
There is a market on Sundays, full of local produce and crafts. The original town evolved around the 10th century Benedictine Monastery, which has undergone several modifications in its long history. Its main architectural features include a pair of turreted watch towers, complete with Romanesque ‘Porta Ferrada’, or iron gate, and vaults. The history museum is here, documenting SFG’s central role in the cork trade, while it also hosts arts events and exhibitions.
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In the centre, the striking Constància Casino is a later architectural addition, mixing Arab and Catalan style with Modernism. Built in 1851, the building was designed as a civic centre and meeting place, as well as gambling hall, for sailors and artisans. Today, it houses a café, and while the venue definitely merits a visit, don’t stop to dine here. The surrounding area near the casino has a number of attractive buildings worth a stroll. On the outskirts of town, the 1833 cemetery has some fine stone sculptures and Modernist
features. The town’s main promenade, La Rambla, houses a small toy museum (Museu d’Història de la Joguina) in an attractive building, which is worth a short visit. For the best views of the surrounding area and coastline, walk up to the Hermitage of Sant Elm, founded in 1200. This is the spot where, taking in the view from Palamós in the north to Tossa de Mar in the south, the writer, poet and local politician, Ferran Agulló, named the rugged coastline ‘Costa Brava’.
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www.porttarraco.com
PORT TARRACO
HOME OF GIANTS OCIBAR & PORT TARRACO
Having reached 100% occupation for the first time in Autumn 2019, Port Tarraco is becoming a port of choice for the larger yachts in the Mediterranean. Port Tarraco is located at a 45 minutes drive from Barcelona airport and well conected to the city with public transportation. Port Tarraco offers unique infrastructure for gigayachts with 150.000sqm of water. Port Tarraco was recently acquired by the OCIBAR group:
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A nearby magnet for A-List celebrities, Nobel Prize winners, politicians and royalty since the 1950s is the five-star Hostal de la Gavina. Nestled in the bay of neighbouring village s’Agaró, this stylish hotel has in the past played host to stars including Elizabeth Taylor, Rudolf Nureyev, Peter Sellers, Dirk Bogarde, John Wayne and Jack Nicholson. More recent guests include Carlos Santana and Lady Gaga, as the resort offers relaxation and privacy away from performing at the nearby Cap Roig music festival. Restaurants here include the beachfront Taverna del Mar or, for dinner, the Michelinrated ‘Candlelight’, with an intimate and romantic terrace. Reservations: +34 972 32 11 00. Moving along the coast, we pass Platja d’Aro, an important town in the Middle Ages, though not many signs of its illustrious past remain. Today, the town is a popular beach resort, with a livelier nightlife than neighbouring towns. Heading towards Palamós, you will pass several attractive coves with crystal clear waters, perfect for a swim, such as Cala del Pi, Cala Cap Roig, Platja Can Cristus and Cala del Paller. After that, there are the sandy beaches of Sant Antoni de Calonge, another popular family resort.
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PALAMÓS Palamós was founded in 1277 as a fortification to protect the royal port, used for trade with Sicily, which was prone to piracy and attacks by the French. Like neighbouring towns, Palamós played an important role in the cork industry and was one the region’s primary fishing ports, which today is especially renowned for a superior variety of prawn landed here. In the early 1960s, Truman Capote spent three summers in Palamós, writing his seminal true crime novel,
‘In Cold Blood’. Attracted by the peace and tranquillity of the Costa Brava, the author and his partner travelled here via France, by ocean liner, arriving with 25 suitcases, 4000 pages of research on the Kansas murders, two dogs and a Siamese cat. He and his partner lived in a number of locations in the town, settling in Cala Senià, where they hosted illustrious guests including Gloria Vanderbilt, Cecil Beaton and Harper Lee.
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Palamós remains an affluent, bustling port town, worth visiting for its mediaeval streets, historic buildings and churches, and some excellent restaurants. A standout is the 1441 church, Parròquia de Santa Maria del Mar. One of its treasures is a beautiful 16th century altarpiece, with paintings by Dutch eccliastical artist, Isaac Hermes Vermey. Also worth a visit is the ‘Museu de la Pesca’ fishing museum (don’t be put off by the drab exterior), which details Costa Brava’s maritime heritage. Films and exhibits provide a fascinating insight into the evolution of the fishing industry and the region.
Seafood lovers may want to look in next door, at ‘Espai del Peix’ (Fish Space), a space dedicated to seafood education and promotion of fish gastronomy, and which also houses the daily fish auction. It offers guided tours, talks and demonstrations, as well as cooking workshops, where visitors can learn to cook and sample local Catalan seafood dishes. Yacht chefs may be interested in learning about cooking lesser known species, such as Atlantic horse mackerel, forkbeard and small-spotted catshark. Activities can be booked in advance, at museudelapesca.org.
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There are many fine restaurants in Palamós, including: ‘La Salinera’, a no frills seafood restaurant set in an old salting factory (+34 972 31 64 74); ‘Entre dos Mons’, serving creative Peruvian/Catalan fusion cuisine (+34 671 51 90 18); ‘La Menta’, a small, intimate dining room serving top notch French and Spanish dishes (+34 972 31 47 09), with perhaps more meat dishes on the menu than others.
while larger yachts may be able to make use of the neighbouring commercial port. There are numerous nearby coves and beaches to visit, the finest of which is Cala Estreta, to the north of town. This W-shaped beach is in a stunning location and has no nearby car parking in summer, making it perfect for visitors by boat.
The leisure marina at Palamós can accommodate yachts of up to 30m,
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JARDINS DE CAP ROIG Heading north along the coast, we pass the botanic gardens at Cap Roig, set in the grounds of an early 20th century palatial manor house built for an eminent Russian colonel and his English wife. Spanning 20 hectares, the gardens contain some 900 botanical species. During July and August, the gardens host open-air concerts, where the
likes of Bob Dylan, Tony Bennett, Diana Krall and Elton John have performed in previous years. Camí de Ronda, or ‘Patrol Road’ runs through the gardens. The coastal footpath, originally created to control smuggling, runs almost the entire length of the Costa Brava and is a popular attraction with hikers.
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CALELLA DE PALAFRUGELL Next up in this endless sequence of picturesque fishing villages is Calella de Palafrugell, a small, hilly town of whitewashed houses. Its outstanding feature is the 11th century St Martí church, while the narrow, cobbled lanes and the town square have plenty of local shops and boutiques to explore. The bay has some pretty, pebbly beaches and lots of seafront cafés and restaurants, perfect for lunch with a view. The best beachfront restaurants are La Blava and Fiego, while in a quiet backstreet, Xabec is recommended. Book ahead to ensure a table with a view.
If sea shanties are your thing, the town is famed for its annual Cantada d’Havaneres festival, held on the first Saturday in July each year. The tradition of Cuban-style singing was brought back by returning emigres, who had set off from this region to Cuba in the 19th century to make their fortune. Nearby Begur has several buildings inspired by Cuban style. For the best nearby dining, Pa i Raïm (+34 972 44 72 78) is set in an elegant manor house and garden that is the former home of famed Catalan journalist and author, Josep Pla.
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Tip: The Costa Brava is perfect for chefs and provisioning, with the finest ingredients and regional produce available from many grocers and hypermarkets. The region is also renowned for its Empordà wines, grown in the foothills of the Pyrenees for centuries. Additionally, one of Europe’s largest wine emporiums is located in Palafrugell. The 1,700m² Grau Vins y Licors stocks 12,000 fine wines and spirits, as well as oils and vinegars, from around the world.
LLAFRANC Smaller than Calella, Llafranc is another charming village, set in a sheltered bay with a small port, a sandy, south facing beach and an attractive promenade with shops and restaurants. Salvador Dalí was a regular, as was Earnest Hemmingway, who combined his love for the sea and fishing with a passion for bullfighting. The former home of Llafranc’s most famous resident, the British author, Tom Sharpe, stands high on the hill, overlooking the bay.
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Romans settled here and developed the town as a centre for ceramics and wine making and the remains of a wine press and winery can be seen near the Santa Rosa de Lima church. In 1980 archaeologists uncovered remains here of some of the region’s earliest homes in Roman civilisation. Most of the year, Llafranc is just a sleepy, typical Costa Brava village, perfect for a stroll and casual lunch. There are no large hotels, though it can get busy in peak summer months, of course. In the heart of the town stands Hotel Llafranch and underneath it, Restaurant Llafranc. By day and in the evenings, it is a pleasant family-run establishment, serving standard quality regional fare. The interior is dominated by a large framed photograph hanging behind the bar, featuring the restaurant’s original founder, Manuel Bisbe, posing with his great amigo, Salvador Dalí, signed by the artist. Bisbe and his two brothers, from a gipsy family, opened the hotel and restaurant in 1958 and became notorious due to Manuel’s celebrity as an accomplished flamenco dancer and allround party guy. In 1970, his friend and famous flamenco ‘bailaora’ from Barcelona, Carmen Amaya, rebaptised him in a beach ceremony, ‘El Gitano’, the gypsy of the Costa Brava. The venue became a mecca for musicians, artists, movie stars and celebrities from all walks of life. A photo gallery in the restaurant features the likes of Paco de Lucía, Sofia Loren, Kirk Douglas, Rock Hudson, Julio Iglesias, as well as Ayrton Senna, Fernando Alonso, Johan Cruyff and many FC Barcelona stars, among a raft of other famous faces. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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Today, should you find yourself in Llafranc between mid-July and mid-August, things can get wild on Saturday nights…
as ‘Rambo’. Carles has carried on his uncle’s partying tradition and taken it to a whole new level over the past 25 years. After dinner, the music gets turned up and the proprietor emerges dressed as Rambo, in an homage to his idol, Sylvester Stallone’s on-screen character.
The restaurant is now owned by Manuel’s nephew, Carles Bisbe, also known to friends
Carles performs ‘sabrage’, slashing the necks of bottles of cava with a machete,
pouring it down the throats of the willing throng at the bar, often while dancing on top of it in various states of undress. Things get pretty raucous and even though Carles is now in his sixties, the summer debauchery continues. The final party of the season, Cocktail Rambo, is in mid-August, which turns into a beach fiesta drawing thousands of party goers from far and wide.
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On the outskirts of Llafranc, at the northeastern tip of the town, stands the 1857 San Sebastián lighthouse with a spectacular clifftop viewpoint at 160 metres. The hotel restaurant nearby, El Far de Sant Sebastià, offers highly rated, locally caught seafood and rice dishes, with sea views as far as the eye can see. The finest restaurant nearby, with views over Llafranc bay, is Casamar, offering wide-ranging à la carte dishes or tasting menu (+34 972 30 01 04). For scuba divers, the Costa Brava has some of the finest sites in the Mediterranean that are particularly full of fish. In the waters off Llafranc lie three stunning underwater mountains, known as Els Ullastres, offering dives for all experiences. Schools of dentex and barracuda can be seen here, as well as tuna and groupers, while conger eels are tucked inside the crevices and cracks. Walls are bedecked with sponges, gorgonians and anemones. For the best local knowledge and guided dives, contact Barracuda Diving (barracudallafranc.com).
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TAMARIU In high season, Tamariu’s southfacing, horseshoe bay attracts many families to its sandy beach, but a lack of holiday accommodation means this is a tranquil village most of the time. This fishing hamlet is smaller than Llafranc and Calella, with a handful of good beachfront seafood restaurants and cafés being the total sum of its facilities. Crystal clear waters make this a great spot for a swim, followed by a relaxed lunch. But for a more rustic bite and a dip, try nearby Cala Pedrosa. The tiny,
eponymous café, in a pebbled cove, is accessible only by boat -- or two hour hike on foot from Tamariu -- making it feel like a hidden idyll. Ingredients and supplies are brought in by boat, so the menu is basic, but Cala Pedrosa is all about location. Payment is cash only. Arrive early to nab your spot, or call ahead to book +34 660 89 67 99. Moving up along the coast, there are numerous bays and beaches worth a stop, including Aiguablava, a natural pool formed in an outcrop at Fornells and a lovely virgin beach at Platja Fonda.
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BEGUR Begur sits inland, perched on a hilltop, with stunning views to the sea. Its main historical feature is a 16th century castle, where Elizabeth Taylor filmed ‘Suddenly, Last Summer’ in 1959. Not much of the castle remains, so today’s primary points of interest here are a number of villas constructed in Cuban style by returnees from the West Indies during the 19th century. Some five hundred residents, around a quarter of Begur’s population at the time, had travelled to the Americas during an economic
depression. Many sought their fortune in Cuban sugar and tobacco production and, flaunting their riches, the emigres built ostentatious houses back home, in the style of their adopted new country. One example of these ‘Casas Indianas’, painted in bright colours and with typical ornate balconies, is restaurant Can Torrades, which is worth a visit for its interior, though food here is unremarkable. Around town, a number of grand houses in Cuban or Modernist style attest to Begur’s colonial wealth. There are also a number of Cubathemed bars here, including ‘La Bodeguita del Medio’, a recreation of Hemingway’s favourite mojito hangout in Havana.
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Each September, the town celebrates its Cuban connection with Fira d’Indians, a three-day festival with Cuban music, food, colonial costumes, and traditional handicrafts. There are cigars too, of course, as well as ‘Cremat’, a rum concoction made with coffee beans, cinnamon sticks and lemon peel, set alight Sambuca style. Sailing north along the coast, there are a number of places to stop and have lunch, or stunning little coves and beaches to drop anchor for a swim or snorkel. Cala de Sa Tuna has a shingle beach in a pretty bay with some local restaurants. Further along is the photogenic and rocky cove, Cala
d’Aiguafreda, backing onto a pine forest. There is no beach here, so it tends to be quieter and is perfect for a swim off the boat. It is also worth coming ashore here to dine. Restaurant Cap Sa Sal is just a five minute walk along the coastal footpath from the bay. While the view from the cliffside terrace steals the show, food and service are of a high standard (+34 972 62 43 75). A stone’s throw from the bay (or 120m in the direction of the car park) is restaurant Sa Rascassa, a firm favourite with the burghers of Begur and beyond. Its staunchly
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Catalan menu consists mainly of seafood and its speciality, as the name would suggest, is locally caught rockfish ‘peix de roca’ (+34 972 62 28 45). Heading towards the Medes Islands, the biggest scuba diving destination on the Costa Brava, we pass the bay at Sa Riera, another fishing village
with a rough sand beach. Next up is the popular nudist beach at Cala Illa Roja, named for the red colour of the sand and cliffs. Next up, where the river Ter meets the sea, are the virgin sands and lagoon at Platja de la Gola del Ter, a long stretch of wild beach and bird sanctuary.
MEDES ISLANDS Off the coast at Estartit lie seven islets, the Medes Islands, a national marine park protected since 1990 and a haven for divers. Most Mediterranean species can be found here, often larger in size than elsewhere, with some groupers thought to be more than 25 years old! Bream, wrasse, sea bass, sea bream, red mullets and scorpionfish can be seen around the reefs, while eagle rays and turtles are
commonplace. Occasionally sharks and dolphins venture here, but the biggest fish spotted from time to time is the mola mola, or sunfish. Estartit is a larger holiday resort than neighbouring towns, with well developed tourist facilities. While the town itself may have little to commend it for superyacht visits, the leisure marina has berths up to 45m. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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L’ESCALA A short distance up the coast we enter the Gulf of Roses, with a long beach stretching from l’Escala at the southern end to the port of Roses. l’Escala is a low level tourist spot, mainly frequented by second-home owners from Barcelona and Girona. l’Escala boasts not one, but two, Michelin-listed restaurants: set in an old stone house in the centre of town, La Gruta (restaurantlagruta. com) showcases French-inspired cuisine on a concise à la carte and three varied menus; El Roser 2 (elroser2.com) is on the seafront and is about all varieties of
seafood, both à la carte or in a choice of tasting menus. Nearby Empúries was an important trading post, founded in the second century BCE by the Greeks and later developed by the Romans. The fishing industry required salt for preservation and a salt warehouse, the Alfolí, was eventually built in l’Escala in the 17th century. Each September the town hosts a salt festival, while the ‘Museu de l’Anxova i de la Sal’ is dedicated to the salting of anchovies.
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EMPÚRIES Just a mile along the bay lies the major archaeological site of Empúries, in Greek, ‘Emporion’ or market. Traders from Phocaea landed here in 575 BC, founding a colony that is now the village Sant Martí d’Empúries, for trade with the Iberians. They were displaced by Romans a couple of centuries later, subsuming Emporion into the town they had founded nearby. Fortifications were added to ward off inevitable raids from invaders, but by 300CE, the site was abandoned and lost to the sands until being rediscovered only in the early 20th century. It is estimated that just a quarter of the complete site has been excavated to date, but there is much for fans of archaeology to see here. Greek defensive walls, shrines and statues sit alongside remnants of early Christian basilica, as well as Roman baths and
fine mosaics and an amphitheatre. Sant Martí d’Empúries’ main architectural feature is the neo-Gothic Church of Sant Martí, built in 1538 on the site of a pre-Romanesque first century temple. Standing on the same square are the remains of a 13th century castle, wall and portal. The surrounding houses and buildings have been carefully restored, providing a glimpse of what ancient village life was like. There are some tourist restaurants here, but the best food to be had is five minutes by car at Mas Concas, set in a beautifully restored farmhouse that was once the summer residence of famed writer Víctor Català. The ‘Bib Gourmand’ and à la carte menus are modern Mediterranean with a French influence (masconcas.com).
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BESALÚ A 40-minute drive inland brings you to the stunning mediaeval town of Besalú, on the edge of La Garrotxa Nature Reserve. This is an important stop on the ‘Caminos de Sefarad’, a string of towns linked by their former Jewish heritage, whose communities fled persecution from 15th century Catholic monarchs. Besalú is one of the best preserved mediaeval towns in Catalonia, with narrow, cobbled streets and stunning
facades around the main square. Unmissable is the landmark Pont Fortificat bridge, standing over the Fluvià river with two turreted gates and portcullis. Particular highlights among the Romanesque, Gothic and mediaeval buildings are the churches of Sant Vicente and Sant Pere. One exceptional attraction in the Jewish Quarter is the mikveh, Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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uncovered in 1964 and for a long time thought to be the only mediaeval Jewish bathhouse known in Spain, until another was found in Girona in 2014. It is an immaculate example of this type of bath house, only four of which remain in Europe. It is located underground, on the site of the former synagogue, while the excavated courtyard was used for weddings and festivities. There is a daily tour of the Jewish Quarter, or else, access to the mikveh is only possible via the tourist office.
The neighbouring nature reserve of La Garrotxa has some interesting volcanic terrain to explore, including twenty lava flows and forty volcanic cones. There are 28 different walking routes, while it is teeming with protected wildlife, from wildcats to boar, snakes and woodpeckers. The finest restaurant in town, overlooking the bridge, is Pont Vell, serving traditional local cuisine, including specialities such as sweet and sour rabbit and oxtail (restaurantpontvell.com).
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FIGUERES Salvador Dalí
D
alí left his mark all along the Costa Brava, but Figueres was his birthplace and remained his spiritual home. Born in 1904, Dalí attended drawing school and discovered modern painting during a 1916 summer outing to Cadaqués, with the family of a notable local painter, Ramon Pichot. Young Savaldor’s first public exhibition was at the Municipal Theatre in Figueres in 1919, aged only 15. He moved to study in Madrid in 1922, where he established himself as an eccentric English-style dandy, with long hair and sideburns, dressed in stockings and breeches. He ‘retired’ from fine art school before graduating, stating that no one on the faculty was worthy of evaluating his work. Judging by his
1926 ‘Basket of Bread’, he may have had a point. Pichot had become Dalí’s mentor and introduced him to his good friend, Pablo Picasso, during one of his regular visits to Paris. Picasso had already heard favourable things about Dalí from Joan Miró. Like Picasso, he would spend much of the 1930s in France, during the Spanish civil war, before heading to New York to find fame and fortune.
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Having been turfed out of the family home in Cadaqués by his father, for making disparaging remarks about his deceased mother to a Barcelona newspaper (“sometimes, I spit for fun on my mother’s portrait”), Dalí had bought a cottage in Port Lligat, to which he returned in 1948. He lived here with his Russian wife and muse, Gala, before buying her a castle in Púbol in 1969, after which they lived apart. He moved to the castle after Gala’s death in 1982, later taking up residence in his Figueres theatre/museum after a failed suicide bid in 1984, where he died in 1989. He lies buried in a crypt at the TeatreMuseu in Figueres.
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WHAT TO SEE Figueres is a pleasant town, with a tree-lined pedestrian ‘rambla’ at its heart. All the main attractions are a short walk from here, aside from the huge Castell de Sant Ferran military fortress on the outskirts of the city. In the centre, the interior of San Pedro church is the only building of historical interest, featuring beautiful stained glass and bloody iconography. Had it not been for Dalí, Figueres would have been known as the birthplace of Narcís Monturiol, the inventor of the first autonomous submarine. Eclipsed by the world famous artist, the town is almost a Dalí theme park, with many museums and other establishments laying claim to his legacy.
There are only two major museums in the world devoted to Dalí’s work: the Salvador Dalí Museum in St. Petersburg, Florida and the artist’s own creation, Teatre-Museu Dalí, right here. There is no little snobbism in the art world about Dalí, who was snubbed by the Surrealist movement, among whom he was disparagely nicknamed ‘Avida Dollars’. It’s an anagram and a play on the French expression “avide à dollars” (eager for dollars), deriding Dalí as a shameless self-promoter eager for fame and fortune. He designed the logo for Spanish lollipop brand, Chupa Chups, appeared in a TV advertisement for Lanvin chocolate and created promotional artwork for Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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the 1969 Eurovision Song Contest, among other commercial projects. Rumours that he sold signed blank canvases after his health declined didn’t help. After returning from the US, Dalí began work on his Theatre-Museum in 1960, devoting most of his energy to the project until it opened its doors in 1974. Set in the former municipal theatre, which burned down in 1939, the building is unmistakable. Probably more at home in a theme park, the walls are pink, studded with gold stuccoed croissants, with large eggs and golden statues placed along the roof’s edge. It is a taster of what’s inside, the playground of a creative genius, exploring themes of sexuality, insanity and mortality. While his most famous works are not here, there is much to see, including drawings, sculptures, paintings, holograms, stereoscopes, photography, jewellery and engravings. Wandering around the theatre museum can make it seem as though you are experiencing one of Dalís dreams. His jewellery collection is housed next door. Museu De L’Empordà houses one of Catalonia’s foremost art collections, with works dating back to the 19th century. The permanent collection features archaeology objects, mediaeval sculptures and baroque paintings by Ribera, Mengs and Mignard, with later works by Sorolla, Casas, Reig Corominas, Monell, Gargallo, Casanovas and Tàpies. There are local Empordà artworks by Blanquet, Reig, Vallès, Santos Torroella and Dalí, of course.
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Particularly if travelling with children, or to revisit your own youth, the Museu del Joguet is worth a stop. This small toy museum has some 5,000 exhibits, with dolls, board games and toys through the ages, as well as a miniature railway that took eight years to construct.
full of some 3,000 mechanical antiques, from typewriters, telephones, sewing machines, clocks, domestic appliances, office equipment and so on. By appointment, the owners provide a private tour and share their enthusiasm and great depth of knowledge (+34 972 50 88 20).
A popular attraction, with rave reviews, is the Museu de la Tècnica de l’Empordà, a small museum dedicated to the evolution of technology from the 18th and 19th century. Curated by a passionate husband and wife couple, it is chock-
The best restaurant in Figueres is El Motel, a family owned business since 1961. The retro decor has remained unchanged, but creative cuisine and service are among the best Catalonia has to offer (elmotelrestaurant.com).
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CASTELLÓ D’EMPÚRIES A 20-minute drive towards the coast, east of Figueres, lies the small mediaeval town of Castelló d’Empúries. This 11th century city was once a regional capital and major trading centre, home to many aristocrats and affluent residents. As such, it has all the trappings of past importance, including an impressive church, the imposing Santa María Basilica, cobbled narrow streets, a well preserved Jewish quarter, old walls and a bridge with turreted portal.
Each second weekend of September, the town comes alive with the biggest mediaeval festival in Catalonia, the ‘Terra de Trobadors’ It’s a colourful event, marking the town’s glorious past with horseback tournaments, knight fights, ancient crafts, theatrical and music performances and a grand banquet. Bird watchers may want to stop at the nearby Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l’Empordà, a 47 km² wetland park with scenic trails and hutches.
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During migration seasons more than 300 species stop over, while around 80 nest here. Highlights include Purple Swamphen, Kentish Plover, Common Shelduck, Common Shelduck and Northern Lapwing, while waders include flamingos, purple herons, glossy ibis, spoonbills and rare black storks. At the top of the Bay of Roses lies the town of Roses itself. The city has some Hellenic, Roman and mediaeval settlement remains, having been founded in 8BC by Greek colonists from Rhodes. The main attraction here is a marina for yachts up to 45m and a fuel station.
There are also some notable restaurants, including Sumac, a modern establishment set back from the seafront, offering local produce prepared with flair (restaurantsumac.com). Reopening in 2022 is Els Brancs, in the Bellavista Hotel, overlooking the bay at Bonafici Beach. Before COVID forced its closure, the restaurant held a Michelin star, serving creative, Catalan-inspired cuisine, including a 20-course ‘Experience’ menu, with an impressive wine list (elsbrancs.com).
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CADAQUÉS
A
t the easternmost tip of Spain, just below the French border, is the promontory where Salvador Dalí felt most at home. Here, the village of Cadaqués is unarguably one of the most beautiful in the whole of Spain, with its whitewashed houses and landmark church standing on a stunning piece of coastline. A favourite retreat for artists, writers, Hollywood legends and rockstars, many have been coming here since the 1950s. Dalí’s family used to visit for summer trips from Figueres. Having been banished from the family home, Dalí decamped to Portlligat, a tiny hamlet a stone’s throw from Cadaqués. Here, he rented what was a small fisherman’s cottage on the water’s edge. He and his wife, Gala, bought it after returning from America and eventually acquired the neighbouring properties, turning it into a sprawling home that is now a museum. There isn’t much else to see in Portlligat, but for fans of Dalí, the house is a must. He lived here, on and off, from 1930 until 1982 and it remains pretty much as he left it, providing a glimpse of the man behind the art. Dalí regarded it as a ‘biological structure, a creature’ and it is as bonkers as you might expect. Aside from his studio
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with unfinished works, there are stuffed animals, objets d’art, sculptures and photographs throughout the rooms in the warren-like property and its outside areas. Tickets to Casa Museu Dalí must be booked in advance, as visitor numbers are strictly limited (bit.ly/CasaDaliMuseum). Cadaqués is an achingly pretty town, perfect for a lunch stop and a stroll. In terms of attractions, there isn’t a whole lot to see or experience, but that seems rather the point of the place. It has long been a haven for creative luminaries in search of relaxation and quiet reflection.
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Visiting by car involves a sequence of hairpin bends, which takes half an hour to navigate by car through a National Park, giving the village an otherworldly, remote feel. Arriving by boat, its charms are obvious to the naked eye. Founded by Iberians in the 9th century and evolving over the Middle Ages, Cadaqués is a picturesque village of small whitewashed houses, handcrafted cobbled streets, colourful doors and shutters. Take a walk up the hill to the 16th century Santa María church and take in the stunning view over the tiled rooftops across the bay. The church interior is unremarkable, aside from the stunning altarpiece, or ‘redodos’, which is a masterpiece by renowned Catalan designer and sculptor, Jacint Morato. Most famous for its association with Salvador Dalí, Cadaqués was frequented over the 19th and 20th
centuries by painters, sculptors, poets, playwrights, including Marcel Duchamp, Federico García Lorca and Pablo Picasso. One legendary hostelry here is Casa Anita, first opened in 1960, a family run, cosy tavern with vaulted ceilings, serving ‘no frills’ seafood in rustic style. Its tables have been graced by everyone from Kirk Douglas, Yul Brunner, Dalí (of course), Paul Newman and Anthony Quinn, to Elton John, U2, Ronnie Wood and Snoop Dogg. There is no menu and booking is essential (+34 972 25 84 71). The best restaurant in town is Compartir, set in a rustic 18th century building and courtyard. It is the work of former chefs from the infamous three-star ‘El Bulli’, producing highly creative small plates and platters designed for sharing (compartircadaques.com).
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BALEARIC ISLANDS
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J
MALLORCA
oan Miró i Ferrà was born in Barcelona’s Gothic quarter in 1893, the son of a watchmaker and a Mallorcan mother. Miró initially attended business school, but dropped out to pursue his passion, enrolling at La Llotja fine arts academy, where the ‘malagueño’, Pablo Picasso, had studied years earlier. Miró’s and Picasso’s mothers were friends and he would follow the master to Paris in 1920, where the elder took 26-year old Miró under his wing, introducing him to
Joan Miró
critics and dealers. He returned to Spain with his wife after the start of the war in 1940, settling for the tranquillity of Palma de Mallorca. Flitting between Barcelona and the island, they made Palma their permanent home in 1956. As an artist, his early work reflected the landscapes of Mont-roig in Catalunya, Paris, and Mallorca, with later influences from New York and Japan. Refusing to conform to any particular artistic movement, his was a constant quest for a pure art that could not be classified. He eschewed the commercialism and polygamous lifestyle of his friend and mentor, Picasso, and the hedonism of Dalí, of which he disapproved. Despite a twelve-year age difference and the lack of artistic affinity, the two men would remain solid friends until Picasso’s death in 1973, exchanging more than a thousand letters over the years.
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dless source of en n a is a rc o “Mall of the pure brilliance e h T . n o ti a ir insp of the sea.. I es lu b d vi vi e ó light, and th ere.” Joan M ir h ll a ’s it , g in invent noth
Asked in 1978 who he considered the 20th century’s three most important painters to be, Miró answered “Picasso first, Picasso second, Picasso third”. Miró would continue to spend summers in Catalunya, but died in Palma, aged 90. He lies buried in Montjuïc Cemetery in Barcelona. He endowed both the Fundació Joan Miró in Barcelona and, in Palma, the Fundació Miró Mallorca, where his studio remains intact, exactly how he left it.
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ART & CULTURE IN MALLORCA
IN PALMA
Fundació Miró Mallorca
On the outskirts of Palma, Joan Miró’s workshop has been turned into a small museum and cultural centre, featuring works by the artist, as well as pieces by Picasso, Dalí and other contemporaries. While none of Miró’s best known works are here, 6,000 paintings, drawings, objects and documents on display provide a unique insight into the techniques and materials used in his creative process. Permanent and temporary exhibitions contain paintings, drawings, sculpture and graphic arts spanning the period from 1908 to 1981. Set on a hill, the sculpture garden provides magnificent views over the surrounding area.
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Museo Fundació Joan March Close to the cathedral, ‘Palau March’ is the opulent 17th century former home of Juan March Ordinas, an entrepreneur and financier once reputed to be the world’s richest man. This grand townhouse holds a permanent collection of prominent Spanish 20th century artists of the 20th century. Among the more than 70 pieces, of course, are Miró, Picasso and Dalí, but also works by Tàpies, Chillida, Julio González and Palazuelo, to name a few.
Es Baluard Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Set on the ramparts overlooking STP and Real Club Nautico, Es Baluard museum is housed in a military fortress. Its permanent collection includes works by Cézanne, Gauguin, Picasso, Miró, Picabia, Magritte, Giacometti, Motherwell and Tàpies, as well as more recent artists such as Horn, Plessi, Polke, Kiefer, Schnabel, Barceló, and Scully. The museum also has an active programme of shows, exhibitions and film.
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Bellver Castle
Palacio Real De La Almudaina
A 15-minute drive from the centre is Bellver Castle, on top of the hill to the west of Palma. Bellver (‘lovely view’ in Catalan) is a 14th-century Gothic style circular castle with a unique round tower. Aside from the castle itself, one of the best reasons to visit is the spectacular view over the woods to Palma and the entire bay area.
Adjacent to Palma cathedral stands the royal palace of La Almudaina, which dates back to the 14th century. The official residence of the King and Queen during their stays in Mallorca, the palace is not a museum, but is worth a tour for its architecture and historical interest.
The castle also houses the City History Museum and the Despuig Classical Sculpture Collection. The museum documents Palma’s evolution from the Bronze Age up to the present, while its classical sculpture collection is devoted to the provocative 18th century Asturian politician and former Bellver prisoner, Gaspar Melchor de Jovellanos.
The seat of the monarchy in the Balearics, this is where kings and queens of Aragon and of Spain held court. Like most architecture of the age, the fortress’ origins were Arabic, completed under Catholic rule. Majestically high-ceilinged rooms, elaborately decorated and filled with regal artworks and artefacts provide an insight into the history of Spain and the islands.
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CaixaForum Gran Hotel In the heart of Palma stands this wonderful Modernist building, which first opened as a grand hotel in 1903. Designed by famed Catalan architect, Lluis Domènech i Montaner, it today houses a range of visiting exhibitions of socio-educational interest and guest collections by masters of the calibre of El Greco and Toulouse-Lautrec.
Museu Diocesà de Mallorca This small museum next to the cathedral and La Almudaina palace has a permanent collection of more than two hundred works of religious art, charting the journey of Christianity in Mallorca. Housed inside a wing of the 13th century bishop’s palace, there is an exhibition dedicated to the restoration of the cathedral under the guidance of Antoní Gaudi. Works by the influential philosopher and writer, Ramón Llull, are also on display here. A guided tour is recommended, as descriptions are only in Spanish and Catalan.
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Castell Museu de Sant Carles MASM Palma This small military museum is housed inside the early 17th century fortress, set on a hill at the edge of town, with imposing views over the Bay of Palma. Before the museum Opened in 1991, the fort had been a hospital and an officers’ prison. Today, cannons flank the entrance, while inside are ten exhibition rooms filled with 7,000 items of weaponry, uniforms and paraphernalia chronicling the military history of the Balearics. Worth a visit for the views alone.
The Museu d’Art Sacre de Mallorca, to give it its full name, is one of the oldest museum institutions on the island, whose principal objective is to preserve the religious artistic heritage of the Diocese of Mallorca. The small display of fifty exhibits is part of a rotating collection of more than 1,400 items, including paintings, sculptures, goldsmithing, numismatics, archaeology, ceramics, graphic documentation, textiles and anthropology.
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AROUND THE ISLAND
VALLDEMOSSA CHARTERHOUSE Much is made in Valldemossa of the extended vacation Frédéric Chopin and the writer George Sand once spent here, with her children, during the dreary winter of 1838/39. Chopin did not enjoy his time here, suffering from tuberculosis due to inclement weather, though it was a productive stay for the couple. The pair rented a ‘cell’ consisting of three rooms in Real Cartuja (Royal Carthusian Monastery), part of the
charterhouse that had been a royal residence, until it was donated to Carthusian monks in 1399 until 1835, when the monks were evicted. In one of the rooms, Chopin had an upright piano installed, on which he completed Preludes Op 28 and composed Ballade No 2, Op 38 in F major and Scherzo No 3, Op 39 in C-sharp minor. For her part, Sand wrote an autobiographical travel novel, ‘Winter in Majorca’, documenting their visit. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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Today, the rooms are part of a museum, with each of the cells given over to a different theme. Chopin’s piano is on display here, along with documents, paintings and other memorabilia. Aside from Chopin’s cell, there is an old pharmacy, a library and a small modern art museum, with works by Picasso,
Miró and Juli Ramis. Even if not visiting the museum itself, the public cloister is delightful.
Can Prunera Museum of Modernism, Sóller Another commendable museum for modern art fans, Can Prunera, remains closed at time of writing, due to the
pandemic. Set in a 20th century modernist-style house in Sóller town, this museum ordinarily hosts pieces from the private Serra Art Collection of modern masters, alongside a permanent exhibition of the works of Juli Ramis. Check canprunera.com for opening updates.
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A DAY IN PALMA If you are spending just one day in Palma, a great way to explore the city is to stroll around the old town. Staying within town, the entire centre is easily covered on foot. Opposite STP, walk up one of Palma’s main boulevards, with the cathedral to your right, bringing you to the heart of the city, along Passeig del Born. Shops, cafés, galleries and ateliers are dotted all along the narrow, winding, cobbled lanes that come off either side. A traditional way to start is to take breakfast at the original C’an Joan de S’Aigua in Calle Sans. Founded in 1700, it is one of the city’s classic bakeries and coffee houses, famous locally for its ensaimadas and cuartos. If stopping by later in the day, this characterful establishment also makes its own artisanal ice cream.
Watch ESTELA’s virtual City tour here (2’40”)
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Palma Cathedral, or ‘La Seu’, as she is referred to locally, is an imposing architectural feature of the City and is the second-largest Gothic cathedral in Spain (after Seville). Construction began in the 13th century, taking 400 years to complete, and it features ‘The Gothic Eye’, one of the world’s largest rose windows with 1,236 pieces of stained glass. Its columns are ringed with wrought-iron candelabra designed by Gaudi. Be sure to walk around to the southern end, facing the sea, to admire the Portal del Mirador, a 15th-century door by Guillem Sagrera featuring scenes from the Last Supper. For church lovers, Palma has many beautiful examples to enjoy, but like much of southern Spain, having a history littered with Moorish occupation and a large Jewish contingent, these different cultures all put their stamp on the city. Other highlights around the city are Plaza Cort, featuring the mostphotographed of all of Mallorca’s millions of olive trees, the ancient baths in the Arab quarter, the Jewish quarter, and many classic Mallorcan patios, tucked away in the backstreets. A major part of any Palma itinerary involves wandering about on foot and getting lost, just a little.
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SHOPPING If it’s a shopping ‘fix’ you need, our personal shopper can collect you from your yacht, making sure you don’t miss out on the best Palma has to offer. Start your shopping experience at Plaza de Juan Carlos I. Then make your way down the picturesque promenade of Paseo del Borne, in the heart of the city. While ‘El Born’ today is all about boutiques and cafés, its history is richly colourful. During Roman times and up to the Muslim era, around the end of the first millennium, it was no more than a gully, serving as an overflow from
the torrent of Sa Riera to the sea. It was rerouted after a flood in 1403, in which five thousand people died, almost a fifth of Palma’s population at the time. From the early 17th century, jousting tournaments took place here, with the name ‘Born’ given for the Catalan word for the protective piece of wood placed at the end of a horseman’s spear. By the 20th century it had turned into a smart tree-lined promenade, with stone benches lining the wide pedestrian thoroughfare. This is where debutantes, in tightly corseted Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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dresses and ankle boots, were paraded by their chaperones as though livestock, in front of eligible bachelors looking on from the sidelines. Today, it is where many of the city’s festivities take place. Graced with high end designers such as Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Bvlgari,
Cartier and Rialto Living, to name just a few, Palma has plenty of exclusive brands on offer. For smaller boutiques and lesser known designer wear, there are many individual shops tucked away in the sidestreets of the old centre. For art, ceramics or antiques, there are many galleries and studios to discover.
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RESTAURANTS For a complete list of ESTELA-recommended restaurants in Palma and around Mallorca, please visit the Important Information section on page 307.
FINE DINING IN PALMA Fera
Adrián Quetglas
Tucked away behind the smart shopping district in central Palma is one of Mallorca’s most creative restaurants, offering “borderless MediterraneanAsian flavours and textures” in a restored townhouse. Tasting menus include a seven-course vegetarian option.
Local star, Quetglas, worked under some of Europe’s top chefs before striking out on his own after a long stint working in Moscow. The tasting menu is inventive, highly creative and brings some Russian influences to the finest local ingredients.
+34 971 59 53 01 ferapalma.com
+34 971 78 11 19 adrianquetglas.es
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Forn de Sant Joan
+34 971 728 422 forndesantjoan.com Located in a former 19th century bakery, this family-run restaurant has been serving creative Mediterranean cuisine for 15 years, complemented with an excellent local wine list.
DINS Santi Taura
+34 656 738 214 dinssantitaura.com Unique gastronomic experience based on the traditional cuisine of the islands and made with seasonal ingredients from local origin. Our guests can choose between different proposals and suggestions and from our selection of wines.
Quadrat
+34 971 49 50 00 Mediterranean cuisine with a modern touch is served at the restaurant of Hotel San Francesc, set in the converted stables of a former mansion in the heart of Palma’s old town. For lunch, only an ‘Executive’ set menu is offered.
Sumaq
+34 696 526758 restaurantesumaq.com Unassuming restaurant in the centre of Palma (Santa Catalina) serves Peruvian-inspired dishes, with South American, Japanese, Chinese and
Mediterranean ingredients combined to create some original dishes to stimulate the taste buds.
La Bodeguilla
+34 971 718 274 la-bodeguilla.com Authentic Mediterranean food with the finest seasonal products from the land of Mallorca. Very extensive wine list.
De Tokio a Lima
+34 871 592 002 detokioalima.com Peruvian/Japanese fusion cuisine, using the finest local produce. Dishes are suggestive and surprising, celebrating flavour in every dish.
Rosa del Mar
+34 690 837 947 rosadelmarrestaurante.com Innovative and adventurous gastronomy based on seasonal products, designed by chef Tito Verger.
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We make the impossible possible!
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FERA is the brainchild of three partners, Sheela and Ivan Levy, and Executive Chef Simon Petutschnig, creating one of Palma’s most exciting dining venues in 2017. FERA uses only the very best produce, fused with the finest local ingredients. Products such as Mudéjar Wagyu beef, reared in Teruel with 100 per cent Japanese ancestry, and biodynamic Demeter oils, are just some of the gastronomic highlights. Mediterranean and Asian flavours are combined to create what Petutschnig calls “borderless Mediterranean cuisine”. The result is a ‘sensory orchestra’ that brings together the heat and passion of the Mediterranean with the soul of Asia. Dishes such as Mallorcan suckling pig and shitake dim sum, or Simmentaler beef tartare with crispy nori, truffle and olive oil, are typical examples of traditional and exotic
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ingredients coming together to create something unique. Before co-founding FERA, Petutschnig, from the Austrian village of Eberstein, worked with several star chefs. Among them, Paco Pérez in the two-star ‘Miramar’ restaurant, as well as the Michelin-starred ‘Alkimia’, under Jordi Vilà. He moved to Mallorca in 2014, becoming executive chef of the Hotel Sant Francesc, where he met Ivan and Sheela Levy. FERA was born not long after, setting out to create an authentic experience for the ‘six senses’, for those who appreciate a unique vision of cuisine. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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COASTAL MALLORCA
O
f the 45 ‘Blue Flags’ awarded to the Balearics’ beaches and ports, Mallorca has 30, while the 90 km-long mountain range, Serra de Tramontana, is designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Owing to its central location on the ancient Mediterranean trading route, the island of Mallorca has seen its share of conquerors, invaders and settlers over the centuries, evidence of which can be found around the island. Away from its beautiful coastline, the island’s towns and villages all tell a story through their ancient architecture, with historical events and battles commemorated with many fiestas and events throughout the year. More recently, the painter and sculptor Joan Miró lived and worked here, Frederic Chopin wintered here, while many stars of stage, screen, sport and music call it home. Mallorca’s most famous son today is Rafael Nadal, the world’s former Number One tennis champion and keen poker player, who hails from Manacor, where his eponymous tennis academy is located.
For the interactive map online, scan here:
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BAY OF PALMA Spending only a few days cruising Mallorca’s coastline means picking where to drop anchor for the day, with many attractive coastal spots to choose from. But, remember, regardless of where you choose to come ashore, any part of the island is less than an hour away by car. Aside from water sports, fishing or diving, guests might choose to go shopping in Palma, sightseeing in Soller and Valldemossa, or playing golf at Alcanada. Returning from Ibiza, we moor up at Puerto Portals, in the heart of Palma Bay and only 16km from the airport. From here, Palma’s centre and beaches are only a taxi-hop, bike ride, or even a run away, while Portals’ own restaurants, cafes and boutiques are a great spot to linger, peoplewatch and soak up the atmosphere.
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PORT D’ANDRATX, SANT ELM, SA DRAGONERA Setting off westward from Puerto Portals we cruise around Mallorca’s southern tip towards Port d’Andratx for our next mooring. Nearby is the picturesque fishing village of Sant Elm, a popular spot for hikers to walk up to ‘Sa Trapa’, a ruined Trappist monastery with stunning views of the coastline and surrounding areas, as well as Sa Dragonera. The six-kilometre long rock gets its name from its dragonlike shape and is home to over 350 different plant species. Many plants uncommon to the rest of the island include wild cabbage, corn
chamomile, horse-shoe vetch and European fan palm. The islet is a strategic point during bird migration and many colonies of sea birds and birds of prey can be found here. Gulls, shearwaters and osprey are among the species frequently found patrolling its shores. In addition to birds, a small sub-species of lizard native to Sa Dragonera is characteristic, in fact the name of the island comes from the large number of these lizards you come across while strolling around the island.
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BEST SPOTS FROM ANDRATX TO SÓLLER Cala de Ses Ortigues Es Tamarell 39°63‘N 2°41‘E
39°62‘N 2°48‘E
Port de Valldemossa
Cala d‘en Tio
Ets Amoradors
Pedra Blanca
Cala d‘en Basset
Punta de s‘Àguila
Els Farallons
Cala Gata
39°56‘N 2°35‘E 39°59‘N 2°35‘E 39°64‘N 2°43‘E
39°69‘N 2°50‘E
39°71‘N 2°58‘E 39°73‘N 2°60‘E
39°70‘N 2°54‘E 39°70‘N 2°55‘E
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PORT DE SÓLLER, SÓLLER, DEIÀ, VALLDEMOSSA, FORNALUTX, SA CALOBRA Continuing up along Mallorca’s west coast, we head for Port de Sóller, mooring at the newly renovated Marina Tramontana. Port de Sóller is a stunning natural bowl and is therefore a tourism hotspot during the high season. A pretty fishing village with a stretch of sandy beach, with many seafront shops, bars and restaurants make for a lovely spot to relax. It is also a great place from which to explore some of Mallorca’s most picturesque villages, with an old wooden train trundling up to the hilltop town of nearby Sóller at regular intervals. The town is famous for its olive industry, but also for lemons and oranges. On a hot day, a locally-made fruit sorbet is a refreshing must. A stone’s throw from Sóller lies Fornalutx, often voted one of the prettiest villages in the whole of Spain. It’s a small, photogenic village whose attraction is its narrow cobbled streets, pretty houses with red roofs, with flower pots abound and beautiful mountain views.
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By car, a drive from Sóller to Deià and on to Valldemossa provides views of the most stunning bit of coastline anywhere, while a stop in each town is worthwhile. Deià is known for its literary and musical connections, with many writers and artists drawn here since early in the 20th century. The poet and novelist, Robert Graves settled here and his house is now a museum, while several Spanish-language writers and poets came here for inspiration from the mainland and South America. In the 1980s Deià became associated with Sir Richard Branson, whose Virgin Group once operated the ’La Residencia’ hotel in the town. The exclusive resort has in the past been host to famous names such as Mick Jagger, Princess Diana and Harrison Ford. More recently, it has been nearby Cala Deià, on the coast, that has been drawing many visitors, after the screening of a TV adaptation of a John Le Carré thriller, ‘The Night Manager’. Largely set in Mallorca, some major scenes were filmed at the ramshackle restaurant, Ca‘s Patró March, perched precariously just on the water’s edge. The eatery is not quite the fancy venue portrayed in the hit drama, but its unique setting with beautiful cove views, and accessibility directly by tender, makes a visit worthwhile.
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Another achingly beautiful village in the Tramuntana mountains is Valldemossa, the place where Frederic Chopin once spent an unhappy winter with George Sand, due to the inclement weather. The town’s most famous homeowner is movie star Michael Douglas, though his clifftop estate has been up for sale for some years, with a $50 million price tag. The quiet and picturesque town has its share of small shops, eateries and
art galleries, so is a pleasant spot to while away an hour or two. Hikers can choose from a number of trails that originate here. A drive from Sóller in the other direction, north towards Sa Calobra, is 38 km of motoring or cycling nirvana. This famous stretch of hair pinned tarmac has featured in many motoring TV shows and photoshoots. Taking one’s eye off the road to admire the stunning views is probably inadvisable...
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THINGS TO SEE ROYAL CARTHUSIAN MONASTERY MUSEUM The Real Cartuja (Royal Carthusian Monastery) was originally a royal residence, until Carthusian monks occupied the building from 1399 until 1835. It has white-arched corridors leading to ‘cells’ containing museums on various themes. Visit the old pharmacy - you can almost smell the herbs - then look into the library, where the monks would meet for half an hour a week, their only human contact. There is a fine modern art museum, with works by Picasso, Miro and Juli Ramis, and of course there is Chopin‘s cell.
THE ARCHDUKE WAY – WALK
The archduke walkway above Valldemossa and Deia is without a doubt one of the most stunning walks on the island. The walkway follows the summit ridge with spectacular views down to the sea. It is a challenging hike with over 500m of ascent. However, the steep climb out of Valldemossa is well worth it for the views along the north western coast.
THE HOUSE OF ROBERT GRAVE MUSEUM Poet and author Robert Graves (18951985) lived in Deià, Mallorca, from 1929 until his death. His house has been refurbished and adapted for visitors. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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PORT DE POLLENÇA,CAP FORMENTOR Tearing ourselves away from Sóller, we move further north, towards arguably the most beautiful piece of coastline Mallorca has to offer. Larger yachts frequently anchor off-shore, though mooring in nearby Port d’Alcudia’s commercial port can be arranged. Passing Cala San Vincente, a charming small resort featuring three beaches and a great spot for cliff diving, we head for the unspoilt cove of Cala Bóquer. Accessible only by boat or on foot (it’s a beautiful 4km walk from Port de Pollença), this creek is some 300 metres inland with a pebbly beach, popular with snorkelers and divers. Overhead, keen twitchers might spot vultures and falcons rarely seen in Europe.
Your new Alcudiamar
745 MOORINGS · 150T TRAVELIFT DRY DOCK · NEW PONTOONS WATER AND ELECTRICITY SUPPLY MODULES · ELECTRIC MOBILITY BOTEL · SMARTPORT
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Passeig Marítim, 1 · 07400 Port d´Alcúdia · 971 54 60 00 / 04 · alcudiamar@alcudiamar.es
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Withdrawals, however you want them Banking & Cash-to-Master
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BEST SPOTS Incredible clear water on this side of the island. Coves and cliffs. A perfect place for diving. We can organise your diving instructor on board.
Cala Tuent
Caló de Xalóc
Punta La Torre
Sa Calobra
Punta Galera
Cala Bóquer
39°84‘N 2°77‘E 39°85‘N 2°80‘E
39°91‘N 2°96‘E 39°93‘N 3°04‘E
39°92‘N 3°05‘E
39°93‘N 3°10‘E
From Cala Bóquer we progress towards Cap Formentor, a peninsula jutting out from the north-eastern corner of Mallorca, featuring 400-metre high cliffs densely covered in pine trees. At the very tip is the lighthouse, ‘Faro Formentor’, one of the island’s most famous landmarks, while its most inaccessible sandy (public) beach lies in front of the exclusive Hotel Formentor, currently undergoing a major transformation to re-open as a Four Seasons resort in 2023. Spain’s most expensive homes can be found here, with jaw-dropping views and perfectly secluded. Port de Pollença (also ‘Puerto Pollensa’), is a well-
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established low-rise resort with sandy beaches wrapped around a horseshoe bay and a seafront mostly unchanged in decades. It is one of Mallorca’s quieter resorts, popular with families and travellers whose idea of evening entertainment is a stroll along the picturesque Pine Walk, a 3-kilometre cobbled promenade stretching along half of the bay. The seafront offers an array of dining and drinking options, as well as many shops and boutiques to browse. Port de Pollença was the spark for Agatha Christie’s short story, ‘Problem in Pollensa Bay’, when the author first stayed here in March 1932. Hotel Formentor had been deemed too extortionate for her tastes, settling instead upon the fine Illa d’Or Hotel on Pine Walk (which remains open today), inspiring her to introduce the character ‘Mr Parker Pyne’. Today, off-season visitors are more likely to encounter the Quickstep professional cycling squad, in training on nearby climbs ahead of the Tour season.
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EAST COAST Setting off down Mallorca’s eastern coast, there are countless calas and beaches where visitors might choose to drop anchor. Heading for Porto Cristo for our next overnight stay, guests may enjoy a beach day at Muro Beach, where ‘Royal Beach’ is a popular lounge and bar, with its outdoor sofas and chilled music, though Muro can get busy during the high season. Alternatively, calas particularly great for a swim are Es Caló, or the sandy coves at Coll Baix, Cala Torta, Cala Mesquida. The Cala Ratjada lighthouse offers impressive views, with Menorca visible in the distance, while there are mooring options here at the Cala Ratjada Marina.
Inland, Alcúdia’s walled old town is worth a visit, where the old gates still stand and where cobbled narrow streets are home to shops, bars and boutiques, while on Sundays it holds one of the island’s biggest markets. Along with the typical Mediterranean marketware, there is lots of Mallorca produce on offer, while chatty locals add to the colour. Another spot worth a visit is Artà, a 13th century town set on a hill, with steep narrow roads within mediaeval fortress walls leading to the pilgrimage church of Sant Salvador at the top of the town. Its terrace offers panoramic views of the coast and hills with almond
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orchards and olive groves. On the coast lies Canyamel, from where the Caves of Artà are worth a 45-minute stop. The most impressive underground complex on the island, these caverns hid some 2,000 Arabs and their cattle during the Christian conquest. Like an underground cathedral, its tallest stalagmite stands 22m and continues to grow at a rate of 2 cm per hundred years. cuevasdearta.com/en/ The longest beach on the east coast is Cala Millor, a well-developed resort, stretching from Cala Bona at the top towards the 200-hectare nature reserve of Punta de n’Amer at the southern end. Stopping at Porto Cristo, one of the main attractions is the Cuevas del Drach (Dragon Caves), another
impressive limestone cave complex featuring Lake Martel, one of the world’s largest subterranean lakes. One-hour guided tours end with a tenminute violin concert, with a string ensemble playing from a rowing boat cuevasdeldrach.com/en/ Setting off towards the southern tip of Mallorca, the east coast’s choice of beauty spots doesn’t let up, with many, many more calas tempting visitors into their crystalline waters. This stretch of coast is also quieter than the resorts north of Porto Cristo. Felanitx is a charming inland village surrounded by vineyards belonging to the island’s second wine-producing area, Pla i Llevant, and hills dominated by ancient castles and towers. Not far from the southern coastline and the resorts of Porto Colom and Cala
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d’Or, it’s a great place to visit to experience the real Mallorca. Wine is an integral part of Mallorca. Many of its central plains are covered in ancient vineyards where local grape varieties grow, boasting exotic names like ‘Manto Negro’, ‘Callet’ or ‘Prensal’. First up comes Cala Varques, a 1km beach in a quiet, secluded bay featuring a small cave and swimthrough arch. Popular with locals, it’s an unspoilt bay where the only food or refreshments available will be from beach vendors. Moving along towards Portocolom, we pass Cala Murada, a sheltered blue-flag beach. Portocolom is a small resort with a deep natural port, and began life as a fishing village. The town is notorious regionally for its annual ‘Fira Gastronómica d‘Es Pop’,
a food festival held at the end of June, with some 40 stalls offering delicious squid specialties. For sandy beach lovers, the nearby Cala Marçal is the main daytime attraction. Further south, there are a series of quieter calas and pebbly or sandy beaches, in an area popular with boat-based scuba divers. Being not easily accessible from inland, they tend to be quieter, as it takes some determination to get there. Notable are Cala Estreta, Cala Mitjana and Cala Ferrera, before we reach the more developed Cala d’Or. Cala d’Or is an attractive resort comprising a number of lovely coves and beaches, with numerous resort hotels and a lively marina with lots of boutiques, cafés and restaurants, though it can get crowded in the high season. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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For a quieter stop, consider Porto Petro, another small fishing village that has swelled into a small resort set around a large natural harbour and marina. Next up is the must-see Parc Natural de Mondrago, one of our favourite parts of Mallorca. Backed by a large natural park of thick pine forests are three white sandy beaches, connected by a wieldy footpath, offset against beautiful turquoise waters. Further along is the pretty inlet and natural harbour of Cala Figuera and a perfect spot for lunch, with a number of good restaurants directly overlooking the creek below. Still an active fishing village without many hotels, Figuera is very much about atmosphere over sun-seeking. Cala Llombards is the next possible stop (we did say that there is a lot of choice), with a sandy beach featuring a small beach café and clear waters to wade into. Cap des Moró is the next cove to tempt visitors. Like the other calas in this region, they are a trek for land-based visitors to get to, but their outstanding beauty makes it worth it, so they can get busy, particularly at weekends. The advantage for yachtdwellers is that they can simply skip to the next bay...
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Next up is Cala s’Almunia, which resembles a swimming pool tucked behind a cliff. Other spots along the coast may tempt you, though our last recommendation for outstanding, secluded beauty is Cala Màrmols (‘Marble Cove’). Its beach is only 40 metres wide, but a 5.5km walk from the nearest car parking ensures that this small haven is mostly shared with other boat-based visitors.
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CABRERA, ES TRENC Moving around Mallorca’s southern tip at Cap de Ses Salines, Cabrera National Park comes into view. ‘Parque Nacional del Archipiélago de Cabrera’, to give it its full name, is a cluster of 19 islands, with Cabrera (‘Goat Island’, even though there are no goats present) being its largest. It became a prison camp during the Napoleonic Wars and a military base in 1916. Now a protected national park, it is a haven for plant- and wildlife, including turtles and whales and two hundred species of fish, as well as bird colonies. With underwater caves and coral and crystal clear waters, Cabrera is popular for scuba divers. The nearest on-shore resort to Cabrera is Colonia de Sant Jordi, a working fishing port and marina, with a number of fine, sandy beaches. It is a popular resort for water sports, with low-rise hotels and some good
restaurants. The town’s claims to fame are its salt beds that produce the island’s ‘fleur de sel’, to be found in shops all over Mallorca, and the ‘BEST’ swimming training camp, where many of Europe’s top swimmers have graced its 50m pool. Just to the south of town lies what is widely regarded as Mallorca’s finest beach, Platja Es Carbó, which comes with royal approval, as a spot favoured by the holidaying Spanish royal family. A close second must be the neighbouring ‘Es Trenc’, which at 3km long is the island’s longest and widest sandy beach, stretching north all the way to Sa Rapita. The dunes of the national park directly behind the seafront provide shelter from any wind, making it popular for all-day beach dwellers, including a large nudist area.
Tip: Yachts require permission to anchor off Cabrera and must ensure not to touch in any way the protected posidonia seagrass. Contact us to arrange your visit, allowing at least three weeks’ notice during the high season, or you may miss out. Max LOA here is 35m.
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IBIZA
I
biza, the destination better known for its party scene than for history, art and culture, continues to be the primary superyacht magnet in the Balearics. If it’s culture your guests seek, just get in touch for an itinerary with ideas for places to visit and things to see. In the meantime, here we focus on the coves and beaches that most yachting visitors come for. There are many spots worthy of consideration, but assuming you seek plenty of space for your towel without rubbing thighs with the riff-raff, we pick some of the best, going clockwise around the coast. We have also updated the restaurants guide, with a fair few changes after a challenging couple of years for Ibicenco tourism.
Es Cavallet,
an extensive, picturesque, white sandy beach with protected dunes and salt flats behind, sometimes windy with rolling waves. Part of it is denoted as nudist beach and is there is a lively gay scene at the southern end, with a number of popular restaurants and beach
clubs drawing a relaxed crowd. Bird watchers (of the feathered variety) may spot flamingoes roosting in the shallows behind.
Las Salinas
is one of the busier beaches on the island. This extensive white sandy beach is a popular meeting point for locals and famous faces alike, with well-known restaurants like Malibú and Guaraná known to pull in the odd screen or music star. Other notable hotspots are Jockey Club and Sa Trinxa beach clubs.
Sa Caleta beach is collared by
distinctive orange cliffs. Part sand, part rock, the site features some Phoenician ruins dating back to 654 BC. The clay, mixed with water, makes for an excellent DIY face mask, if you’ve left the La Mer at home.
Cala Jondal is one of the most
popular Ibizan beaches, pebbly at the southern end, with a number of beach clubs drawing affluent sun worshippers. Some nearby restaurants and bars keep visitors fed, hydrated and entertained.
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TIP: part of the protected national park, with the posidonia seagrass that gives waters around this part of the island their clarity, captains must take care to keep both anchor and chain off the seagrass, while jet skis are forbidden For the interactive map online, scan here:
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CALA CARBÓ 38.894660N, 1.217897E
CALA TARIDA 38.9411434N, 1.232526E
is especially good for boatbased visitors, as it’s a shingly beach and inland access is along a dirt track, so it tends to keep big crowds away. The waterside restaurant is a popular spot for lunch with locals in the know.
Es Xarcu
Cala Carbo is a small public
Cala d’Hort
Cala Vadella is a lovely sandy
has stunning sunset views over Es Vedra, making this a great port of call towards the end of the day. The beach itself is laid back and popular with families.
beach, but is generally eschewed by tourists. Secluded between cliffs and with pine trees providing shelter, it’s particularly worth coming here on a breezy day.
beach, but can get crowded, so is probably best enjoyed from the water. The southern end of the bay is particularly good for snorkelling. ‘Big Blue Ibiza’ scuba dive centre is located here, as well as a surfing school.
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CALA CODOLAR 38.95016N, 1.22762E
Cala Moli’s pebbles tend to keep
sand-lovers away, so this beautiful spot doesn’t get overcrowded. Declared a ‘natural beach’ means there are no beds/loungers here, though there is a beach club with its own pool, should you prefer to keep off the stones.
Cala Tarida is a 1km long strip of white sand, sheltered by hills. With restaurants, bars and watersports
PORTINATX 39.110676N, 1.5175388E
here, it’s one of the most popular beaches in the area, so it can get crowded. Orca Sub scuba dive centre is located here.
Cala Codolar
is a small, half sand half pebbles, locals beach, without many facilities to speak of. It’s also under the flightpath, but in high season, this is going to be one of the quieter beaches. There is a windsurf school here too.
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Cala Gracio and Cala Gracioneta
are nestled side-by-side near San Antoni, but far enough away from town to keep large numbers at bay. Pretty sandy coves and calm waters make this a lovely spot to linger. If Chef has the day off, the chiringuito in Gracioneta will deliver lunch (and cocktails) to your sun lounger. CALA CONTA 38.9629212N, 1.218317E
Cala Conta (or Comte, in Catalan)
is where you’ll find the classic ‘Ibiza vibe’, with a beach restaurant/bar open until midnight, with resident DJ. White sands, dunes and a wonderful view of the sunset, this is a popular spot for those looking to chill into the evening.
Sa Galera or Punta Galera is
an old quarry that is now a formation of flat rocks, popular with nudists, artists, hippies and yogi. Not easily accessible from inland, Galera is one of the quieter places for those in the know. Whether you’re going to practise your Downward Dog or not, bring your mat for comfort. Great for cliff jumping and a stunning sunset view.
Cala Bassa
is one of the busiest beaches in this part of the island. The water here is truly turquoise, there is a buzzing beach club and great rocks for cliff jumping.
Port d’Es Torrent is a calm spot,
mostly pebbled and with very limited parking, so mainly frequented by locals and guests staying in nearby hotels. There are signs by the ‘fun police’ banning ball games and music, so it’s perfect if you like peace and quiet.
CALA BASSA 38.968191N, 1.2400134E
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Bernat, a rock formation jutting out of the water outside the bay, also known as ‘the finger of God’. Those unfortunate enough not to be aboard a boat need to jostle for position on the beach for Benirràs’ famous Sunday ritual, when hippy bongo drummers congregate at sunset. Yacht dwellers can hear the rhythmic beats from the distance, to the smell of incense. CALA MOLI 38.92993N, 1.23302E
Cala Salada is a rustic bit of
beach backing onto thick pine trees, mostly frequented by intrepid visitors seeking relative seclusion. Even more determined are those clambering across the rocks to get to the prettier, sandier and even more secluded Cala Saladeta next door. Not a problem for those arriving here by tender, of course.
San Miguel bay itself is lovely,
but it’s a fairly developed resort with nearby family hotels and holiday accommodation, so there are probably more suitable options nearby.
Benirràs Beach
is in a sheltered bay, with pebbly sand and clear waters. There are a couple of bars on the beach, looking out over Cap
Cala Xarraca is a great spot for a
swim and a snorkel. An abundance of posidonia seagrass provides crystal clear water and draws plenty of fish. Limited car parking keeps the number of land-dwellers down, making this a perfect stop for those afloat.
Cala Xuclaris a pebbled little
cove without much car parking, so rarely gets crowded. The beachfront restaurant here (until 10pm, +34 679 67 05 59, cash only) consistently earns rave reviews, serving some of the finest seafood in Ibiza.
Portinatx is a popular resort with
three beautiful beaches (S’Arenal Gros, S’Arenal Petit and Playa Porto) that are particularly popular with snorkelers and divers. Worth a visit, but prone to crowding.
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scuba diving, but the main draw here is the beach club, Amante, which offers all the usual luxuries, plus extras such as yoga and an outdoor movie theatre.
Aigües Blanques (also Aguas CALA XUCLAR 39.10264N, 1.50897E
Cala d’en Serra is a small sandy
cove with clear waters and great snorkelling. Tucked away, it never tends to get too busy. A stunning setting with beautiful views out to sea.
Cala Sant Vicent (also Cala
San Vicente, or simply ‘Sa Cala’) is a well-developed resort, with hotels and restaurants catering for tourists. The beach itself is a sandy expanse, though, providing ample room for everyone. Apart from a variety of watersports offered here, in nearby San Juan, it is possible to arrange horse riding tours (age 12+) that take in the local countryside, coastline and beaches.
Blancas) is named after the whitecrested waves that tend to roll in. This 300-metre stretch of sand is a popular spot, despite it being prone to easterly winds. While nudism is popular all around Ibiza, this is a designated nudist beach. Cradled by tall cliffs, it’s a popular spot for rock-jumping, as well as surfing. Blancas has great views over the nearby private island of Tagomago (which can be rented, complete with Mangusta 108 yacht www.tagomago-island.com/).
Es Figueral is remote enough to keep the crowds away, frequented mainly by tourists staying nearby.
Sol d’en Serra is a secluded
spot, with a shingle beach eschewed by families and those who prefer sand. Clear waters are great for snorkelling and
PUNTA GALERA 39°06’58.6”N 1°31’07.7”E
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booked up months in advance. Even the king of Spain has been turned away here after pitching up without a reservation. Cash only.
Cala Llenya is one of the most CALA NOVA 39.00345N, 1.34591E
Pou des Lleo and the gravelly,
rocky cove at Canal d’en Marti is a rustic beauty spot, with rugged red rocks in clear waters, and some rickety boat houses.
Cala de Boix’s beach isn’t overly
popular for its dark, grainy texture, but makes for a great cove to visit by tender, provided the wind isn’t up. Tree-lined cliffs surround the 150m long strip, making for a picturesque and quiet place to enjoy without the crowds.
popular beaches in this part of the island, with some 200m of fine sand and shallow waters popular with families. At 60m wide, it’s rarely overcrowded, except perhaps on Saturdays, when the famous nearby ‘Las Dalias’ hippy market is on.
Cala Nova
is one of the most beautiful sandy beaches on Ibiza, in an arc 250m long and 30m wide. Shallow for quite some way out, it’s popular with families, though it is prone to strong currents when it gets deeper, so the surf can get up a bit.
Cala Mastella
is a gorgeous creek with a tiny beach. Not easily accessible by land, the cove is tailor-made for boat-based visitors. The beach-front restaurant ‘El Bigotes’ (+34 650 797 633), named after its former owner’s famous bushy ‘whiskers’ is a very popular, but basic eatery, often
CALA SANT VICENT 39.0755012N, 1.5926012E Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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plenty of space for it never to feel crowded. The resort is also particularly accessible for wheelchair users.
Calo s’Alga
CALA ES FIGUERAL 39°03’12.2”N 1°35’49.5”E
Cala Pada
is a rocky cove with a sandy beach, framed by thick pine forest. The jetty here makes it a handy place to disembark. It’s a beautiful spot, though its close proximity to a ghastly package tour hotel means you won’t be alone.
Playa Niu Blau is a narrow strip of gravel and sand, collared by pine trees offering plenty of shade if it gets too hot. Not so much an all-day destination beach, Niu Blau rarely tends to get overly busy.
also Racó de S’alga, is difficult to find from inland, so tends to be quieter than nearby places. The small beach is cordoned off at one end by a breakwater, covered in plant life, so its clear waters are particularly good for snorkelling.
Cala Olivera
is a public beach in a small, south-facing cove in an exclusive neighbourhood. So much so, that arriving here by car requires a security check before being allowed down the private access road, keeping numbers in check. Cala Olivera is definitely worth a visit. Being another popular nudist haunt, you may see more than just a famous face here…
Cala Llonga at 200m long and
up to 100m wide is a popular beach, protected from the elements by high cliffs on either side. While this is a wellestablished resort, with many hotels, restaurants and amenities, there is
CALA LLONGA 38.57099N, 1.31223E
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low-key than Cala Bossa on the other side of town. A long wooden promenade makes the beach easily accessible for wheelchair users, while it is only the second beach in Spain to install an ‘audioplaya’ system for the sightimpaired, designed to guide bathers, using beacons and sound bracelets. CALA TALAMANCA 38°54’51.3”N 1°27’30.7”E
Platja s’Estanyol is another tiny,
secluded cove, accessible only by a single access road if coming by car. It is popular with people looking for a bit of privacy and with clubbers in the morning who have yet to call it a ‘night’. In the afternoon, nearby trees provide some shade, while its shallow pebbled waters tend to be bath-warm. Snorkellers have reported seeing grouper and even moray eels here.
Talamanca at 900m long and 30m
wide, is the quietest of Ibiza Town’s three beach areas and is within walking distance of its marinas, or just around Punta Grossa headland if you drive the tender past Marina Botafoch. Restaurants, shops and cafés are more
Figueretes is made up of three
sandy beaches, the nearest to Ibiza Town, where you will find something going on anytime of day or night, given the proximity of hotels, shops and nightlife.
Playa d’en Bossa
is Ibiza’s largest beach, at over 2.5km long and up to 50m wide at some points. With hotels located all the way along, as well as bars, restaurants and boutiques, it is the island’s busiest stretch of sand. Given the close proximity of Ibiza’s famous clubs, the evenings are for chilling to beach-based DJs, the nights for clubbing, the mornings for sleeping it off and the afternoons for sunbathing before doing it all again. D’en Bossa is exposed, so a great spot for windsurfing and other winddependent watersports.
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RESTAURANTS, DALT VILA La Oliva
38.90835N, 1.43527E Carrer la Santa Creu, 2 +34 971 30 57 52 laolivaibiza.com
El Olivo Mio
38.90842N, 1.43552E Plaza de Vila, 7-9 +34 971 30 06 80 elolivoibiza.com
RESTAURANTS, IBIZA MARINAS Trattoria del Mar
38.91242N, 1.44896E Puerto Deportivo Marina Botafoch +34 971 19 39 34 trattoriadelmaribiza. com/restaurant/
Sa Nansa
38.91794N, 1.44494E Av. 8 de Agosto +34 971 31 87 50 restaurantesanansa.com
Calma Bistró
38.91338N, 1.44255E Av. 8 de Agosto +34 971 595 595
marinaibiza.com/en/ lifestyle/calma/
Restaurante Pacha 38.91845N, 1.44314E Av. 8 de Agosto. Discoteca Pacha Ibiza. +34 971 31 09 59 pacha.com/restaurant
El Lío
38.91383N, 1.44312E Passeig Joan Carles I +34 971 31 00 22 lioibiza.com
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RESTAURANTS, IBIZA TOWN CENTRE La Brasa
38.90885N, 1.43472E Carrer de Pere Sala, 3 +34 971 30 12 02 labrasaibiza.com
La Bodega
38.90839N, 1.43692E Bisbe Torres Mayans 2 +34 971 19 27 40 labodegaibiza.com
El Cigarral
38.91134N, 1.42882E C/ Fray Vicente Nicolás, 9 +34 971 31 12 46 elcigarralrestaurante.com
Mar a Vila
38.91024N, 1.43162E Av. Ignacio Wallis 16 +34 971/314778 maravilaibiza.es
La Cava
38.90977N, 1.43431E Passeig Vara de Rey, 4 +34 971 31 60 74
lacavaibiza.com
EL Zaguan
38.91044N, 1.43296E Av. de Bartomeu de Roselló, 15 +34 971 19 28 82 elzaguan.es
Ca N’Alfredo
38.90942N, 1.43342E Passeig “Vara de Rey” 16 +34 971 311 274 canalfredo.com
RESTAURANTS, AROUND IBIZA El Barco, Talamanca Beach
38.91551N, 1.45219E Carrer de Talamanca, Playa Talamanca +34 971 31 35 73 facebook.com/elbarcoibiza
El Silencio, Cala Moli
38.930292N, 1.233686E Av. de Cala Molí, 30, 07830 Sant Josep de sa Talaia, +34 676 00 30 59 elsilencioibiza.com
Can Pau, Santa Gertrudis 38.97987N, 1.44054E R/ Can Pau +34 971 19 70 07 canpaurestaurante.com
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Casa Colonial, Santa Eulalia
Ama Lur, San Miguel
Atzaro, Sant Joan
Bambuddha, Santa Eulalia
Ca’n Pilot, San Rafael
Minami, Platja d’en Bossa
38.97893N, 1.48118E Aptdo de Correos 399 +34 971 33 80 01 casa-colonial-ibiza.com
38.97945N, 1.46593E Calle de San Juan, 07814 +34 971 19 75 10
bambuddha.com
Los Dos Lunas, San Antonio
38.95165N, 1.40676E Ctra. Eivissa-Sant Antoni, 07816 +34 971 19 81 02 lasdoslunas.com
Es Nautic, San Antonio
38.97839N, 1.30168E Passeig Marítim +34 971 34 06 45 esnauticrestaurant.com
38.97583N, 1.44417E C/ San Miguel 2 +34 971 31 45 54 amaluribiza.com
38.96239N, 1.39807E Plaza Iglesia +34 971 19 82 93 asadorcanpilot.com/
39.02244N, 1.50463E Diseminado P 12, Sta Eulalia, 153, 07849 +34 971 33 88 38 atzaro.com
38.88536N, 1.40484E Playa d’en Bossa 10, Sant Jordi Tel.: +34 971 39 67 05 minamirestaurantibiza. com
Montauk Sa Capella, Steakhouse, San Antonio 1.30853E Platja d’en Bossa 38.99053N, Carretera Sant 38.88403N, 1.40522E Playa d’en Bossa 10, Sant Jordi +34 971 39 6730 montauksteakhouse.com
Sublimotion
38.8834N, 1.40295E Hard Rock Hotel Ibiza, Sant Jordi +34 616 73 99 52 sublimotionibiza.com
+34 971 34 00 57 facebook.com/sacapella. ibiza/
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FORMENTERA AND ESPALMADOR
T
he smaller of the ‘pine islands’ or Pitiusas, as Ibiza and Formentera are collectively known, is sometimes referred to as a ‘secret’ island, being somewhat off the beaten path. Formentera may lack its own airport but it’s been no stranger to ‘A List’ visitors since the 1960s and 70s, when the likes of Jimi Hendrix, Bob Dylan and Pink Floyd came to stay. Minimal development has preserved this island’s pristine, Maldives-like beaches and waters. Moor up off Ses Illetes, either on a buoy or anchored in sand (with the aid of the anchoring service) and enjoy what is regarded as one of the world’s finest beaches.
It’s low-key chic, with much of the evening action consisting of cocktails and perhaps some dancing outside a ‘chiringuito’ with a DJ, on the beach. There are some nightclubs to be found near Es Pujols’ bustling seaside promenade, but that isn’t what most visitors come for. Off the northern tip of Formentera lies the –connected, at low tide– uninhabited private island of Espalmador, popular with snorkelers and picnickers. The islet is famous in the region for its sulphurous mud flats, and although mud bathing is technically not permitted, this is widely disregarded.
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CALA PILAR 40.03087N, 3.58445E
MENORCA M
enorca is popular with walkers and cyclists attracted to its level topography, though primarily visitors come for its unspoilt beaches and peaceful environs. As the ‘Lonely Planet’ travel guide put it, “Menorca is more birdsong than Pete Tong”, in a reference to one of Ibiza’s most illustrious club DJs. Menorca has two cities, the capital, Mahón (also ‘Maó’) and Ciutadella, which was its capital until the British took over and changed it in the 18th century. Either makes a good base from where to make day trips, or depending on length of stay, yachts may choose to overnight their way around the coast.
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Menorca’s second city, Ciutadella, is on the west coast. A picturesque town, founded originally by the Carthaginians, it has a beautiful old quarter wrapped around a natural port, ‘Es Born’, formed by a deep inlet leading to its centre. It’s a delightful old city, with mediaeval streets and beautiful ancient architecture to feast your eye. Ciutadella’s former status as Menorca’s capital is evident from the grand buildings of historical and cultural interest. Much of the city was rebuilt after being sacked in the Ottoman invasion of 1558, and the palaces built by noble families during the 17th and 18th centuries are well preserved. On the outskirts of the city you will find reputedly the oldest building on the European continent. Naveta des Tudons, dating back to 1200 BC. The ‘The Vessel of Woodpigeons’ is the oldest edification built by humans in Europe. This dry-wall building, a funerary monument, is one of many built by the Talayots in the shape of an upturned boat, giving it its name. Unfortunately it is no longer possible to enter inside, but it is worth a brief stop.
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Ciutadella’s nearest beaches are only a few kilometres away at Cala Santandria and Sa Caleta, while Cala en Bosch to the south is a popular beach resort with a bustling marina. However, the island’s finest beaches and coves are only a day trip away from here -- or from Mahón -- and Menorca really spoils you for choice. Those along the northern and southern coasts are not easily accessible by car, so these are particularly recommended for visits by yacht. Like its second city, Menorca’s capital is a picturesque town set around a deep water inlet, rich in interesting architecture and a bustling atmosphere in the high season. At over 6 km long, Mahón’s harbour is the world’s second deepest inlet after Pearl Harbour, explaining why it has been used as a port since the 3rd century BC and as the base for successive naval fleets. Apart from being a delightful place for strolling around town or sitting on a terrace to sample the local fare, Mahón has good shopping. Aside from the usual high street names, the Baroque cloister has a market selling local produce such as charcuterie, cheeses, wine, and gin, for which Menorca is famous.
Horse lovers should check out a labyrinthian 200-year old family owned store, ‘Armería Escudero’ (C/ Arraval 3), which stocks a bewildering array of horse and riding- related goods. Just about everywhere sells ‘abarcas’, the simple leather sandal that is symbolic of the island. Traditionally made with hard-wearing goat leather, they are surprisingly comfortable once worn in. Mahón may not be Milan, but it’s a great place to shop for a wide range of locallycrafted footwear.
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Gin lovers, meanwhile, may want to consider a tour and/or tasting at the Xoriguer distillery right in the port. Gin was introduced by the British in the late 1700s, when this distillery was built. The island’s most famous export, in its distinctive bottle, is often mixed with a fizzy lemon soft drink, making a refreshing ‘pomada’ for a summer’s afternoon.
NORTH COAST Playas de Algaiarens; there are two beaches to be found at Algaiarens, one more open and one more secluded, with a nearby cave to explore on the hill. Cala Pregonda; rich with fish swimming through crystal clear waters, Pregonda is a favourite for snorkellers. Platja de Cavalleria; an open expanse of sand and nearby car park means Cavalleria is popular, so avoid peak times. Cala Presili; on the eastern side of the island, Presili backs onto the Albufera des Grau National and resembles a Caribbean idyll.
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SOUTH COAST Cala Turqueta; a beautiful virgin beach, but one that can get crowded at peak times. Apart from the pristine beach itself, the big draw is that it’s a great spot for cliffjumping. Cala Macarelleta; the water here is so clear that yachts appear to hover. Macarelleta is understandably popular, but it’s worth getting here early to secure a spot. Its bigger adjoining cala, Macarella, has a ‘chiringuito’ serving drinks and food, for a casual bite on the beach. Cala Mitjana; there are two coves at Mitjana to choose from. The lack of any nearby facilities may make this a decent bet if looking to avoid the crowds. Cala Trebalúger: a reasonably large strip of white sand, shallow turquoise waters and pine-coated cliffs make Trebalúger a particularly lovely spot to anchor.
PLAYA DES BOT 39°56’02.4”N 3°54’54.0”E
CAVALLERIA BEACH 40°03’37.5”N 4°04’32.9”E
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CALA PREGONDA 40.0560778N, 4.0412223E
For the interactive map online, scan here:
CALA TURQUETA 39.9312101N, 3.91259E
CALA MACARELLETA 39.9363367N, 3.935119E
CALA MITJANETA 39.934157N, 3.972904E Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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RESTAURANTS Smoix
Es Cranc
Es Molí De Foc
Godai
Torralbenc
Cova d’en Xoroi
Rels
Ses Forquilles
40.001235N, 3.841204E Av Jaume I el Conqueridor, 38 Ciutadella +34 971 38 28 08 smoix.com
39.927591N, 3.834160E Paseo Portixol, Cala’n Bosch Ciutadella +34 971 384 188 godaimenorca.com
39.59599N, 3.50218E C/ Sant Isidre, 33, Ciutadella +34 971 48 05 16 relsrestaurant.me
40.057287N, 4.132425E Escoles, 31, Fornells +34 971 37 64 42 escranc.com
39.887560N, 4.146634E Alaior, Cala En Porter +34 971 37 72 11 torralbenc.com
C/ Rovellado De Dalt 20, Mahón +34 971 352 711 sesforquilles.com
C/ Sant Llorenç, 65, Sant Climent +34 971 15 32 22 esmolidefoc.es
39.865771N, 4.133241E C/ de Sa Cova 2, Cala en Porter +34 971 377 236 covadenxoroi.com
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With ESTELA, you’ll come up smelling of roses
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LANZAROTE &
CANARY ISLANDS
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T
LANZAROTE & CANARY ISLANDS
he Canary Islands have been a stop-off for Americasbound yachts for time immemorial, but there is much more to be found here beyond simply service, repair and refuelling. With varied scenery and nature, warm climate, top class sports and leisure facilities, viniculture and booming gastronomy, they are a perfect cruising destination for yachts not crossing the Pond for the winter. Last, but not least, the volcanic
Why cruise the Canaries?
air is highly therapeutic for sufferers of rheumatoid arthritis, MS, psoriasis and other ailments, making it a great place to winter. There are eight main islands in the archipelago — (largest to smallest) Tenerife, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, La Palma, La Gomera, El Hierro and La Graciosa — each offering something different, and there are smaller islets to discover, such as Alegranza, Isla de Lobos, Montaña Clara, and Roques del Este and Oeste.
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Formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, the western group of islands (Tenerife, Gran Canaria, La Palma, La Gomera, and El Hierro) consists of mountain peaks that rise directly from the ocean floor. The eastern group (Lanzarote, Fuerteventura and the smaller islets) sits on the ‘Canary Ridge’, a single plateau 1,370 metres above the ocean floor, giving a distinctly different topography. Mount Teide, on Tenerife, is Spain’s tallest peak, at 3,718 metres. The subtropical climate sees temperatures average between highs of 28°C in summer to lows of 20°C in January, while southern Tenerife and Lanzarote tend to see more sunshine
than the others. Rainfall is sparse and usually concentrated in November and December. One weather event to watch out for is ‘Calima’, which tends to occur in the winter months, turning the clear air yellow as a sandy, easterly wind sweeps across from the Sahara. Sandy beaches (white and black), mountains, forests and parks provide a great variety of landscape, with a unique range of flora growing here. As two thousand plant species thrive, a quarter of which are endemic, they make the Canaries to botany what the Galapagos are to zoology. It also hosts many bird species, as well as lizards, while its waters are famously abundant with cetaceans and other marine life.
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LANZAROTE
I
t is said that ‘beauty lies in the eye of the beholder’ and this is definitely the case with the scorched island of Lanzarote. Beautiful or not, its landscape is certainly striking and unlike anywhere else on the planet. Lanzarote is not your typical superyacht destination. ESTELA brought a group of superyacht captains and brokers here for a ‘famtrip’ in April 2022, to introduce the island and showcase the facilities that Lanzarote has to offer the yacht industry. It’s fair to say that our guests were very pleasantly surprised. There are many volcanic islands around the world, but to understand what makes Lanzarote special, we need to talk about one man…
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CÉSAR MANRIQUE César Manrique Cabrera was born in Arrecife in 1919. The young Manrique showed potential as an art student, though his parents persuaded him to study architecture as a better career path. He dropped out and his passion for art led him to attend the same fine art academy in Madrid where Picasso had studied almost fifty years earlier. After graduating he moved to New York and became established on the Lower East Side’s Bohemian art scene. However, after just a few years he grew disillusioned with the artificiality of the Big Apple and returned to Lanzarote in 1966.
“There is an imperative need to go back to the soil, to feel it and smell it”, he remarked. He spent the next 25 years on a mission to turn his home island into “one of the more beautiful places on the planet.” He died here in 1992, in a car crash. Today, Manrique is recognised as much more than merely the Canary Islands’ bestknown artist. His paintings and sculptures were inspired by Picasso, Matisse and Miró, but he was also an architect, planner, designer, landscape artist and conservationist. Nowhere has one man’s vision had such an impact on an entire landscape and its population.
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Lanzarote is peppered with Manrique sculptures, wind toys, signs and architecture, but also road layouts and planning policy were directed by him. He was a pioneer of sensitive ‘intelligent tourism’, as he called it, preventing the advent of package tourism from destroying the land’s natural beauty, in his eyes. Lanzarote was the first place in Europe where all advertisements were removed from the landscape. Manrique told an interviewer that he would go around at night destroying billboards and posters. “We have advertising in the press, on the radio, on TV. Now also when you go to see nature? Enough!” He even designed the island’s municipal waste bins. Manrique’s name adorns the airport and his influence is visible all over the island, including in what you don’t see; high-rise developments, billboards and overground telephone cables.
Mass tourism is restricted to just three main coastal regions, with build height restrictions imposed. Window shutters on houses and buildings inland must be green, while sea-facing shutters must be painted blue. Manrique was a teetotal, non-smoking ladies man who liked to party. But above all, he was an obsessive visionary who shaped an island.
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AROUND LANZAROTE Jameos del Agua (or ‘volcanic tunnels of water’) was Manrique’s first landscape project, designed to showcase the harmony between nature and artistic creation. A number of collapsed volcanic tubes were transformed into a concert hall with two dance floors, three bars, an underground lake and a swimming pool that only the king of Spain is permitted to swim in. Such was his attention to detail, staff at all Manrique-designed venues would wear uniform designed by the man himself, which remains unchanged today.
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Manrique’s home in the village of Haría is now a museum. Hewn out of volcanic rock, ‘Volcano House’ is an evocative arrangement of shapes and curves, as is his trademark. Preserved exactly how he left it on the day he died abruptly, the studio is scattered with unfinished canvases, overalls draped over a chair and paint tubes left untouched. The César Manrique Foundation operates the museum, which includes an art-gallery featuring his own work and of others, including sketches by Picasso and Miró. The Foundation continues its founder’s
work by promoting Lanzarote artists and campaigning against the proliferation of high-rise development on the island. While the landscape in Timanfaya National Park is a creation of a series of volcanic eruptions over six years from 1730, the layout of the park was also masterminded by Manrique and is designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The road leading through the park needed to be laid on the landscape, not artificially driven through it, he instructed his project manager, Luis
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Morales. As the immaculate tarmac weaves through the moonscape, the hills change and catch the light differently around every corner. Colours and shades alter continuously and official tours stop in specific places to enable visitors to take in the surreal views. For many years, astronauts from NASA and the European Space Agency have been coming to Lanzarote, to learn how to collect rock samples and describe their findings. The surface has
also been used to practise driving the lunar buggy ahead of moon missions. Outside the Timanfaya visitor centre, guides give entertaining demonstrations that display the potency of the still-active ‘Islote de Hilario’, while the cafeteria, El Diablo, uses natural geothermal heat to cook food. In an area outside the kitchens, you can feel the volcanic heat coming off glowing magma twelve metres below, while chickens roast above the hot layers of basalt rock.
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This part of Timanfaya (‘fire mountain’) takes its name from the local legend of a hermit who lived here after the Philippine Spanish-American war with only a camel for company. Legend goes that the hermit, Hilario, planted a fig tree that never bore fruit, due to the intense heat of the soil. Inside the restaurant, as a tribute, there is a glass display case with camel bones and a fig tree on black volcanic ash. Another example of Manrique’s method of forging from the landscape, rather than constructing on top of it, is found at Mirador del Río, created in 1973. Manrique had been stationed at this vantage point during military service in Franco’s army, from where he admired the panoramic view over neighbouring La Graciosa. He returned years later to create a dining space wrapped in glass, burrowed into the hillside, along with an outdoor viewing gallery. Perched on a cliff 400 metres above Famara beach, it provides another stunning view of mother nature in all her glory. To be expected in an arid environment with the lowest rainfall in ‘Europe’, cacti are popular. As such, in the Jardin de Cactus at Guatiza, visitors can explore more than a thousand varieties of the prickly plants.
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The proliferation of cacti on Lanzarote was historically not only for aesthetic reasons. The prickly pear cactus was introduced here from Mexico in the early 19th century, to farm parasitic cochineal beetles, which produced a valuable red dye used in the textile industry. Even though artificial dyes have decimated the demand, Lanzarote remains a small producer, as cochineal is still used in cosmetics and food colouring. And it is even used in Campari, so don’t forget to toast Lanzarote when you order your next negroni!
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Another Manrique creation is what is today shamelessly referred to as Casa Omar Sharif, named after the actor (and card shark) who had bought it on a whim while filming ‘The Mysterious Island’ in 1973. He promptly lost it in a costly game of bridge after unwittingly accepting a challenge by the developer, who happened to be a world-class card player himself. Sharif never got to occupy the house, which is now a museum in the town of Nazaret. Continuing on the Manrique trail, short stops to consider are the farming village, Casa Museo del Campesino, and the contemporary art museum at Castillo de San Jose. Arriving at the farming museum, you will be greeted by a landmark
Manrique monument, in honour of the island’s farming community. The museum has a small exhibition of historic farming implements, camel and mule panniers, and a range of related art and paraphernalia. The photogenic, whitewashed cubed village itself is unmistakably Manrique. It is set in the ‘Valley of a Thousand Palms’, where a new tree is planted each time a baby is born in the area. The converted Castillo de San José is a former fortress, turned into a modest art gallery, with an attractive restaurant. Views are over the cruise and commercial port, which is a pity, given the fabulous room and panoramic windows, but the building itself is worth a gander.
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SUPERYACHT PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO
www.yacht-shot.com
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Expand your horizons
Event planning, accessories and performers
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WINE Tenerife wines are best known among the Canary Islands producers, though Lanzarote’s viniculture methods aren’t seen anywhere else in the world, except in Santorini, Greece. In contrast with most of the vegetation growing before the months-long volcanic eruptions in the 1730s, the grapevines survived intact. The same vines also escaped the phylloxera disease that decimated Europe’s vineyards around a hundred years later, meaning that Canarian wines come from the oldest vines on the continent. While Lanzarote’s soil is less fertile than others, the ash coating helps it to retain what limited moisture there is, which is crucial in the absence of spring water. It protects subsoil from erosion, stems evaporation and retains thermal warmth. Above ground, the vines are dug into a
shallow hole, protected by semicircular stone walls that shelter the plants from the wind. Grape varieties are mostly white, with lots of Malvasia grown here, as well as Gual and Marmajuelo, though Listán Negro and Vijariego Negro reds are also harvested. There are a number of wineries that offer guided tours, which are certainly worth visiting for their uniqueness. Another attraction is the annual Wine Run, a half-marathon staged through the vineyards of the La Geria wine region. Held each June since 2009, this fun two-day festival combines running, gastronomy and oenology, along a course that offers (optional) wine at each aid station. Running is not obligatory and walkers are welcome to come and enjoy a tipple, while admiring the volcanic scenery at their leisure. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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BEACHES There is more to Lanzarote than just its incredible volcanic topography and black sand. In the remote north there are small coves to explore and surfers’ favourite spot, Famara, while there are several golden stretches of beach such as Papagayo, in the south.
DIVING Lanzarote’s volcanic scapes are not confined to those on land, of course. Beneath the water lie steep cliffs and extensive shelves with great biodiversity, with drop-offs to 200m around the coast and plateaus between here and La Graciosa or Fuerteventura. Puerto del Carmen is the most popular area, with a wall that descends from 15 metres to 40 metres, offering a range of recreational and technical dives. Dive site: La Catedral is a favourite with advanced divers, with a max depth of 33m and visibility to 20m. Dusky grouper, ballan wrasse, hammerhead and angel sharks, stingrays, turtles and dolphins can be seen here, as well as whales and sperm whales. Coral and plant life also provide plenty of variety and there is a very large cave to explore.
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Dive site: Agujero Azul, or Blue Hole, is a volcanic tunnel, lit by shafts of light passing through along the way. It is home to dusky groupers, large shoals of fish and an ‘eel garden’, ending up at a cave with plenty of wildlife. Dive site: Pecios del Barranco is a dive site containing three sunken fishing boats that are home to lots of marine life. The wrecks and surrounding area attract angel sharks, sea eagles and large mongrels. Schools of boops boops (or bogas) swim by, as well as jacks, amberjacks and Atlantic bonitos. Locally, the wrecks are sometimes called ‘the tuna boats’, for the large amount of tuna seen here. Dive site: Easy shore dives near Puerto del Carmen are at El Muellito and from the jetties at Playa Chica, with depths of up to 18m and good visibility, great for diving day and night. Here are many of the Canarian species, including groupers, rays, tuna, barracuda, moray eels, octopus and cuttlefish, nudibranchs, spider crabs, sardines, salemas, puffer fish, damselfish and many others. Along the bottom, there are anemones, starfish, sea cucumbers and fireworms crawling about.
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MOORING, ANCHORAGE & FACILITIES A key consideration when visiting the Canary Islands is anchorage and mooring, given their exposure to the elements and lack of suitable ocean floor in many places. The good news is that Lanzarote and La Graciosa have a number of anchorages and marinas suitable for yachts up to 80 metres. Aside from essential facilities such as fuel, chandleries and shipyards, visitors can enjoy a wide variety of shops, bars, restaurants, fitness clubs, gardens and designer boutiques. Lanzarote’s marinas are a popular stop-off point for passing yachts
Download a Lanzarote/Fuerteventura Navigation Chart, here:
and with busy social and sporting programmes, they are a lively and safe place to be stationed for cruising or throughout the winter. ESTELA has its very own office in Lanzarote, shared with Calero Marinas, so captains, stews and engineers can arrange anything they need. For anchoring information, visit noonsite.com/place/canary-islands/ lanzarote/ or contact ESTELA: lanzarote@estelashipping.net
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Marina Rubicón Marina Rubicón is in a sheltered bay on the south coast of Lanzarote, next to the protected peaks of Los Ajaches. Berths are up to 70m LOA and 4.5m max depth. This is an attractive village with lots of restaurants, shops, a diving centre, sailing school and outdoor pool. There is a market on Wednesday and Saturday.
Marina Lanzarote, Arrecife 28º 57’ 41.13’’N 13º 32’ 29.48’’W
A ten-minute walk from Arrecife Town, Marina Lanzarote, operated by Calero Marinas, is a stylish marina, with berths up to 70m LOA and 5m depth. There is a range of shops, restaurants and bars, as well as a gym and other crew amenities, making for a comfortable stay.
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The shipyard has a 820-tonne travel hoist, while the hoisting pit is the widest in Europe, at 14.5m. The yard has all the services and connections required for maintenance work, with welding, engineering and carpentry on-site. Being outside the EU for tax
purposes, the Canary Islands are highly cost-efficient for parts and labour, and fuel, of course.
Calero Marina, Puerto Calero
Positioned in a naturally sheltered area, this charming marina has a village-type atmosphere with some fine restaurants and cafés along the waterfront. Amenities include a supermarket, shops, car and bike hire and a sailing school.
28º 91’ 61.06”N 13º 70’ 56.41”W
Lanzarote’s only Blue Flag marina lies 20km to the south of the Calero Group’s Arrecife facility, with berths up to 80m, with 5.5m depth.
Professional divers are also available for pre trans-Atlantic passages.
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DINING OUT Lanzarote has remarkable dry-farming prowess, where it comes to cultivating its own produce. Cereals, vegetables and other crops are grown on volcanic hills, while a major fishing industry is to be expected. It may come as a surprise to learn that, combined, the Canary Islands count seven Michelin-starred restaurants in total, versus the one that Sardinia and Ibiza each have, by contrast.
Kamezí, Playa Blanca
Coentro, Puerto Calero
Set inside a Manrique-inspired complex of villas overlooking Fuerteventura, this unusual restaurant offers a creative tour of 0km Canarian cuisine in 8- or 12-course tasting menus. Cocktails are by Ruth Nieves, the mixologist who tended bar at ESTELA’s ‘Flavours of Lanzarote’ Captains’ Dinner in Port Adriano.
Don’t be deceived by the bland exterior. Chef João Faraca brings invention and flavours to his cooking from his native Brazil, winning ‘Best Chef in the Canary Islands’ in 2018.
+34 626 87 36 95 kamezidelibistro.com
Lilium, Marina Lanzarote +34 928 524 978 restaurantelilium.com
+34 676 83 37 99 restaurantecoentro.com
El Risco, Famara
+34 928 52 85 50 restauranteelrisco.com Set in a house designed by César Manrique, El Risco is an understated seafood restaurant in the north of the island, with great views over La Graciosa.
Overlooking the marina in Arrecife, this modern Canarian restaurant serves contemporary versions of regional classics. The tasting menu takes its name from the Bib Gourmand the Michelin guide awarded the kitchen.
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LA GRACIOSA
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a Graciosa was recognised as the eighth ‘Canary Island’ in its own right only in 2018. Just a hop across from the northern tip of Lanzarote, this eleven square-mile, roadless rock with its 721 inhabitants is a popular day-trip destination. On offer are unspoiled golden beaches, clear waters for surfing or diving, and simple amenities for those who just want to ‘get away from it all’, if only for a day or two. Ferries drop trippers off at the only town on the island, Caleta de Sebo, but the beaches to aim for are Playa de las Conchas (29.277.553, 13.514.760) in the north
and Playa de la Cocina (29.220.445, 13.543.105) in the south. There are no facilities to speak of, but visitors come here for peace and tranquillity. Getting about on land is on foot or by bike, while the only cars allowed are jeep-style taxis, which are rickety and are driven hell-for-leather across the sands. La Graciosa is a perfect spot to get out the water toys and mountain bikes, to ride the 20-mile trail around the island. The isle’s 266-metre volcanic peak, Las Agudas, is a great place for hiking.
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BIRDS As part of the Lanzarote Biosphere Reserve, La Graciosa is also a Special Protection Area for birds, so twitchers should be on the lookout for Scopoli’s
shearwater, white-faced storm petrel, kestrels, owls, Eleonora’s falcon, the western osprey, and sea hawk.
WORLD-CLASS DIVING For divers, La Graciosa is home to the largest protected marine area in Europe. The island is said to be the setting for Robert Louis Stevenson’s novel, ‘Treasure Island’, based on reports that a pirate galleon landed here in the 1760s and her crew buried their booty somewhere. But the real treasure lies underwater.
With more than 300 varieties of seaweed present, these are rich feeding grounds for a wide variety of fauna. The marine reserve holds more than 20 dive sites, which have caves and volcanic formations to explore, accompanied by sea life that can include angel sharks, hogfish, stingrays, groupers, amberjacks, tuna and more.
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FUERTEVENTURA
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eologically the oldest, and second largest, of the Canary Islands, Fuerteventura shares a similar history to its nearest neighbour, Lanzarote. Fuerteventura is all about beaches, with some 150 kilometres of coastline, wide and golden in colour, and arguably the finest of the Canaries. Its close proximity to Western Sahara means a warm climate, while steady
winds make the island a year-round destination for watersports lovers. Goats remain a major part of the land culture and the island is renowned for its award-winning cheeses. Like the rest of the Canaries, Fuerteventura has a strong fishing tradition too, but tourism is by far its biggest industry, mostly in the form of large resorts that are best avoided.
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BEST BEACHES In the northeast of the island lies the Corralejo Natural Park, with the dunes and beaches of Corralejo (28.721.724, 13.841.615) overlooking the nearby, uninhabited island of Los Lobos. Surfing, diving, kayaking, kite- and wind-surfing are the order of the day. In the nearby fishing village, there remain a handful of decent local seafood restaurants around the port. On Los Lobos, a recently unearthed Roman settlement used to produce an exclusive Tyrian purple dye, extracted from predatory sea snails. As it took tens of thousands of snails to produce even a tiny amount of dye, it was expensive and just the preserve of the aristocracy. It was also a rather smelly process, which is why it was carried out off-shore. Excavations continue today.
Tip: If you happen to be in the area in the first week in November, the Park hosts a week-long annual kite festival, drawing kite enthusiasts from all over Europe.
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On the western coast lies El Cotillo (28.689.387, 14.012.661), a secluded beach that is rarely overcrowded, next to an attractive seaside village with a decent selection of local shops and restaurants. It’s a popular surfing spot and a great location to watch the sunset.
The black sand of Ajuy Beach (28.399.371, 14.156.529) is perhaps not the most photogenic, but on this wild, westfacing beach is where you will find a trail leading to the dramatic Ajuy sea caves. Atlantic waves crash onto the most ancient rocks in the Canary Islands, formed
100 million years ago, before the American and African plates separated. Just north of Ajuy village is Monumento Natural de Ajuy, where you will find fossils of extinct marine creatures in the layers of ancient rocks.
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Nearby is the small port of Puerto de la Peña, which served as the main fishing and trading port of the then capital, Santa María de Betancuria, named after Jean de Béthencourt, who conquered here in 1405. Eventually it was outgrown by Puerto de Cabras, which became the capital in the 19th century and was renamed Puerto del Rosario. If you like your beaches rugged, wild and remote, Cofete (28°06’42.0”N 14°23’24.7”W), in the Jandía Natural Park in the south, is for you. This 13 kilometre-long stretch of golden sandy beach can be accessed only via a single unsealed track, for which rental cars are uninsurable. From inland, it takes commitment to get here, but the reward is this stunning piece of coastline, which has in the past been voted the ‘best beach in all of Spain’. Swimming and surfing are generally not advised. Fans of ‘Star Wars’ may recognise the area as a location where scenes from ‘Han Solo’ were filmed.
If Cofete is too wild to test your surfing skills, head instead to the marginally calmer waters of Playa La Pared (28.215.489, 14.222.865), which can still be wild at times. It is also a favourite spot for advanced kitesurfers, looking to get away from the sometimes overcrowded Sotavento Beach, where kitesurfing traffic can sometimes resemble Piccadilly Circus. Hikers should clamber up to the top of the cliffs at La Pared, and reward themselves with one of the most glorious sunsets anywhere on the island, over Punta Guadalupe. Nearby stables offer horse riding, a great way to explore the coastline. Playa del Matorral (28.045.035, 14.336.451) at Morro Jable in Jandía, is popular particularly with German visitors and while the beach here is an inviting 4km stretch of golden sand with shallow turquoise waters, this part of the island is highly developed with nearby hotels and apartments.
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BIRDS The Corralejo Natural Park and Los Lobos island were designated a protected zone in 1982 and are home to a number of desert and bird species. Chipmunk-like barbary ground squirrels were introduced here and can be found in many areas, while overhead, watch out for Egyptian vultures, shearwaters, petrels, Houbara bustard, egrets, spoonbills and kentish plovers. Another reserve is Vega de Rio Palmas, to the west of Betancuria in the centre of the island, where a dried-up reservoir has become a haven for a variety of birdlife, including the endemic Fuerteventura Chat.
CHEESE Over centuries of goat keeping, ‘Majos’ have developed deep expertise in the making of goats’ cheese, for which Fuerteventura is renowned. Majorero cheese is a pale, milky award-winning variety, with a white texture and aromatic, nutty flavour, produced in large wheels. Majorero cheese comes either in its natural rind, rubbed with oil, or with paprika, or with roasted Canarian flour called ‘gofio’. To learn more about the cheese-making process, visit the goats cheese museum at Centro de Artesania Molino de Antigua.
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DIVING A noted scuba dive site, the Cathedral, is located just off the coast of Ajuy, though it is only for very advanced divers, due to the rough seas and strong currents. Stunning volcanic rock formations of canals and grottoes, along with overhangs and drop offs make it a great diving location. Rays, groupers, barracudas and angel sharks are often spotted here amongst the plethora of marine life.
SPORT FISHING Sport fishing off Fuerteventura is among the best in the Canary Islands and it is one of the world’s top spots for Atlantic blue marlin. Close to shore depths plunge to 1,000 metres, while in some places to the west there are depths of up to 3,700 metres, making for ideal conditions. The subtropical climate, oceanic currents and a great supply of baitfish draws marlin here between June and mid- November. Also caught are white marlin, yellow-fin tuna, big-eye tuna and skipjack. Each September, the port village of Gran Tarajal hosts an annual deep sea fishing contest, attracting enthusiasts from around the world. Fans of shark fishing should visit from the end of September, which is a good time for catching hammer sharks of up to 600lbs.
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DINING OUT It’s fair to say that the gastronomy scene in Fuerteventura does not come close to that of its neighbours. In Betancuria, Casa Santa María (+34 928 87 82 82) is a welcoming restaurant set in a carefully renovated 17th century farmhouse in the centre of town. Its lovingly decorated interior wins most of the plaudits, but it offers a traditional, but creatively presented menu, for lunch only. Closed Sundays. In Jandía, Restaurante Marabu (+34 928 54 40 98) offers simple, locallysourced Mediterranean cuisine, in an airy dining room or on the sunlit terrace, accompanied by an extensive wine list.
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GRAN CANARIA
G
ran Canaria is the third largest of the islands, but its most diverse.
Mountainous in the centre, with an almost alpine landscape to the north, while desert-like to the south, Gran Canaria is sometimes referred to as a ‘continent in miniature’. Micro-climates mean it is possible to experience four seasons in a day, though the south tends to be warm year-round, with minimal rainfall and less wind than the easterly Canaries.
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Expand your horizons Itineraries and route planning
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LAS PALMAS
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as Palmas de Gran Canaria, to give the city its full name, today is the ninth-largest city in Spain by population, with 380,000 inhabitants (one place behind Palma de Mallorca) and is a thriving, cosmopolitan, multi-cultural city. Tourism and agriculture are the island’s biggest industries, while Las Palmas is a busy trading centre, with a commercial port, a cruise terminal and a number of marinas.
The city’s old colonial quarter, Vegueta, dates from the 15th century and is a lovely area to wander around, with colourful buildings and squares to discover. A particularly photogenic street is Los Balcones, which features many multicoloured houses with brightly painted balconies. Head for Pelota or Mendizábal streets for bars and restaurants Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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and try the local specialities, ‘papas arrugadas’, washed down with a glass of fine Canarian wine, followed by ‘polvito uruguayo’. ’Papas’ is the South American word for potatoes, which first blew into the Canary Islands from the Andes, after which this variety was cultivated here. Historically, they were cooked, skins on, in seawater, giving them a distinctly salty finish. The wrinkly spuds are still a local delicacy, served with ‘mojo picón’, a piquant red salsa on the side. Local goats’ cheese is also a must of course, as is the typical Canarian desert, ‘polvito uruguayo’. This dish of powdered meringue with cream, caramel and chocolate sauce, was the creation of a Uruguayan lady, Susana Lanús, who brought the recipe with her to Las Palmas. Casa de Colón (Calle Colón 1, 35001 Las Palmas), or Christopher Columbus House, is a 15th century building that now houses a museum dedicated to the explorer’s voyages and to the
relationship between the Canary Islands and the Americas. Columbus is said to have stayed here during his visits and this attractive, well-appointed, museum chronicles his travels and those of other explorers. Tip: Don’t be tempted to stroke the macaws that inhabit the courtyard, as they bite! Close by stands Catedral de Santa Ana, on which construction started 22 years after the foundation of the city and took four centuries to complete. With four architects having overseen the project, it is a classical mishmash of styles and while well-maintained, its best feature is the stunning view from the south bell tower (there is a lift). On the south side of the square stands the Canario Museum, which is devoted to the aboriginal population, the Canarios. Exhibits explain the way of life for Berbers who inhabited the islands from the second half of the first millennium BC to the 15th century, up to the Spanish conquest.
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Also nearby is the San Antonio Abad hermitage, the first church in the city and where Christopher Columbus prayed in 1492, before starting his first American voyage of discovery. Away from the hustle and bustle, Las Palmas is flanked by two sandy city beaches. Las Alcaravaneras, on the eastern side is next to the port, while Las Canteras in the west is a 3km long
well kept beach, with clear waters and a pleasant promenade lined with cafés and restaurants. The reef off Las Canteras is a good spot for snorkelling, while further south is popular with surfers. Beach lovers should note that Gran Canaria has another 80 around the island to explore, while there is plenty else to see.
TEJEDA An hour’s drive inland from Las Palmas to the centre of the island brings you to the rugged mountainous region, with the pretty village of Tejeda at its heart. Topping out at 1,956 metres, the area is a breathtaking landscape of volcanic cliffs and gorges, bedecked with almond trees, fruit orchards and green vegetation. It is a popular spot with hikers and climbers, with a number of signposted trails leading to peaks with stunning views of Roque Nublo, an 80-metre tall rock that is Gran Canaria’s unmistakable landmark. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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ARTENARA The highest village on Gran Canaria provides another perspective, looking out over the volcanic crater from Mirador de Unamuno, a viewing platform near the church. The area is also known for its Berber caves, which were inhabited by the island’s first settlers from around 500 AD. In Artenara, the small-but-worthwhile Museum of Cave Houses has a range of caves, each devoted to a different use, showing visitors how they were used, from aboriginal times up to last century. The village also has a cave restaurant and cave guesthouse, for those wanting the complete cavedwelling experience.
MOGÁN, PUERTO MOGÁN Driving down south from the hills towards the flatter, warmer south, head for the pretty village of Mogán through a valley of avocado trees, on to the coastal town of Puerto Mogán. While the southern beaches of Maspalomas may have the widest sands, their downside is their heavily developed tourism. The south-western corner of the island has no such affliction and is a pleasant, welcoming spot, with vibrant seafront promenades, inlets and fine beaches. This piece of coast has a number of marinas with waterside cafés, boutiques and some excellent eateries, including a couple of Michelin-starred restaurants. This corner of Gran Canaria also gets the best sunsets.
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DIVING If you don’t have a submarine on board, consider taking the tourist submarine, which tours the seabed and bypasses two wrecks at 20m that are rich with marine life. Alternatively, this part of the coast is a very popular location for scuba diving, with roncador, barracuda, trumpet fish, damsel and puffers hanging around. Divers also report sightings of lobster, moray eels and octopus. Further out, sardines are chased by amberjack, while turtles, rays, manta rays and wahoo are also spotted. The finest dive site in Gran Canaria is the ‘El Cabrón’ marine reserve, to the south east of the island, off Arinaga. This area includes caves, arches, walls and volcanic reefs teeming with subtropicals, from seahorses to rays and angel sharks. Above water, this spot, Pozo Izquierdo, is popular with windsurfers and hosts a round of the annual PWA World Cup tour each July. One of the windiest places in the world, waves can reach up to three metres and conditions are ideal for jumps and aerial acrobatics.
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MASPALOMAS
M
aspalomas, at the southern tip of the island, is an out-and-out holiday resort and is well developed with large hotels and apartments, though is still not without merit. There is plenty of sand to go round, so even on a moderately busy day, beach bums will still find enough space for a bit of privacy.
The unusual feature of this resort is 1000 acres of sand dunes that lie directly behind the beach, designated as a nature reserve thirty years ago, to prevent hotels creeping forward towards the water line. The dunes are beautiful, particularly at sunset, offering a desert experience without venturing into the Sahara.
THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED
With a tender at your disposal, you will be able to avoid the crowds, even at busy times. Here are four secluded beaches in the south that are mostly used by locals. Many beaches in Gran Canaria are designated as nudist beaches, but disrobing is, of course, entirely optional...
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Playa Medio Almud
(27.801.827N, 15.747.968W) This half moon beach in a 90-metre bay between Playa del Cura and Puerto de Mogán is a local nudist spot, with a mix of pebbles and light sand, protected from the wind by rugged cliffs.
Montaña de Arena
(27.750.787N, 15.638.445W) The name translates as ‘Sand Mountain’, for the enormous dune that sits directly behind this secluded strip of beach. This spot was for a long time the preserve of local nudists in the know, but has become more popular in recent years. However, at most times you will still find it deserted. The surf can get up, but it’s perfectly safe for swimming.
Playa de Pasito Blanco (27.749.218N, 15.620.762W)
Tucked directly behind Pasito Blanco Marina, this beach is accessible by car or by boat only, to residents or to yachts moored here, so it tends to remain a very quiet stretch. It is also a great spot for snorkelling at the far end away from the marina.
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DINING OUT With a farming tradition that is as old as the hills and everything grown, reared or caught locally, food in Gran Canaria is of the highest quality. Below are some of the very best restaurants, two in the south-west, four in the city.
Los Guayres*
La Aquarela*
Set inside the Hotel Cordial Mogán Playa, offers a range of creative dishes, ranging from traditional Canarian to more exotic fusion dishes.
Unusually, this Michelin-starred restaurant is set in an apartment complex overlooking a swimming pool. On offer is a highly creative menu prepared with the finest local produce.
Puerto de Mogán +34 928 72 41 00
Patalavaca +34 928 73 58 91
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TENERIFE
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he largest in size of the Canary Islands and the most populous, Tenerife has long been a favoured holiday spot for northern European sunseekers. It is best known for its holiday resorts, capitalising on a yearround spring/summer climate, but there is much more to Tenerife than package tourism and man-made attractions. The natural landscape includes Spain’s highest mountain and world’s thirdlargest volcano, UNESCO-listed parks, botanical gardens, cliffs and beaches both golden and black, as well as a rich cultural heritage. It also has no less than five Michelin-starred restaurants, so the culinary arts are well represented too. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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TEIDE NATIONAL PARK In the Teide National Park stands Spain’s tallest peak, at 3718 metres, in the centre of the island. To get to the top, keen hikers can take the sixhour trail from Montaña Blanca, or, alternatively, there is a cable car that stops just two hundred metres shy of the peak, at La Rambleta. From here, it is possible to get to the top on foot, though it requires a special permit, obtainable from the local authority. The panoramic views and volcanic air will leave you breathless.
including insects, reptiles, geckos and lizards. For bird lovers, there are kestrels, grey shrikes and some other endemic species. Another occasional sighting to be had is of the Corsican Mouflon, which was introduced here from Corsica by man. This rare breed of wild, horned, sheep is elusive and only emerges at dawn and at dusk and is fearful of man, its only predator.
An important scientific fixture up here is the Observatory of the Canarian Institute of Astrophysics. Tenerife’s skies — as well as those of La Palma, The 47,000-acre park holds great Chile and Hawaii — are the world’s scientific interest for its hundreds of volcanic cones, lava tongues and caves. best for stargazing. The facility’s main purpose currently is to study the sun. The flora and fauna include a wide range of endemic Canarian species, Tip: If planning to visit Teide unguided, or to tour the Observatory, book your visit one or two months in advance.
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SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE This laid-back city with its 200,000 inhabitants is an attractive mix of 19th and early 20th century architecture and more recent eye-catching additions, with colourful façades, attractive squares and terraces to sit and watch the world go by. The older parts are sometimes compared to old Havana, without the flaky paintwork, but that’s not to say that Santa Cruz doesn’t have a pulse. There are also sophisticated boutiques, antiques
shops, and flashes of bold and vibrant street art. Good food is everywhere, even in the small bars where old men play dominoes, though the best places for something finer are around the Calle la Noria and Plaza de San Francisco areas. At the northern end of town, there’s a decent artificial beach, Playa de Las Teresitas, created with millions of tonnes of white Saharan sand.
CARNIVAL Santa Cruz is a relaxed place all year round, until Carnival comes to town... Celebrating the start of Lent during February, Santa Cruz dons its fancy dress and takes to the streets, like many places around the world. However, this city’s celebrations are eclipsed only by Rio de Janeiro, making it the world’s second largest street festival. The annual extravaganza attracts a quarter of a million visitors from all parts of the world, helped by the mild winter weather and the fact that it is
appreciably safer than the carnival held in Santa Cruz’s Brazilian twin city. For 2023, the date for your diary is Friday, February 17th, for the opening parade, with various events taking place until the season closes on Sunday 26th. To learn more about the event and study some of the costumes close up, don’t miss the Casa del Carnaval museum, open all year. This small-butfun space has an excellent assortment of costumes on display, with Englishlanguage explanations of the history of the festival.
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TENERIFE ESPACIO DE LAS ARTES For a small city, Santa Cruz has a strong arts scene, with works by the likes of Henry Moore and Joan Miró on display in public spaces, while Tenerife Espacio de las Artes (TEA) is a multi-use cultural centre with some excellent modern art exhibitions and installations. The striking building alone, by Hertzog & Meuron architects (of Tate Modern fame) and opened in 2008, is worth a visit for followers of contemporary architecture.
MUSEO DE LA NATURALEZA Y EL HOMBRE Directly next door is the museum dedicated to nature and mankind, where the star attractions are the Guanche mummies and skulls, which are particularly unattractive, but fascinating to see up close. There are also great displays around Canarian flora and fauna and volcanic geology. English- language information is available, as well as a multilingual audio guide.
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MUSEO MUNICIPAL DE BELLAS ARTES The ‘Fine Art Museum’ contains fourteen exhibition rooms with canvases ranging from works by recent local artists to 16th century old masters, including Brueghel, Pieter Coecke van Aelst and José de Rivera. Also displayed here are flags won in the 1797 battle with Nelson, of which the city is very proud and stages re-enactments in the streets each July. There is no lift, so not all galleries are fully accessible. Military remnants worth a look are those of Castillo de San Cristóbal, where the original 1575 foundations can be viewed through an underground gallery beneath Plaza de España. A small museum recounts the history of the castle, with information in English available. Another fortification is the well- preserved
Castle of San Juan Bautista, popularly known as Castillo Negro, a round 17th century seafront fort. Next to the castle is the modern and unmistakable César Manrique Maritime Park, a playful recreational city space. Forged out of volcanic rocks, saltwater pools feature waterfalls, bridges and islands, lined with palm trees and Manrique’s signature wind toys. Overlooking the waterpark is the Adán Martín Tenerife Auditorium, a striking landmark with shades of the Sydney Opera House, designed by Spanish architect, Santiago Calatrava. Guided tours of the interior are available. Nearby, is the Palmetum botanical garden, with a huge variety of palm trees and other plant species.
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ANAGA COUNTRY PARK Away from the city, just a half hour’s drive will bring you to the heart of Anaga Country Park. This huge area of natural beauty in the northeastern corner of the island was declared a Biosphere Reserve only in 2015, and is a mecca for nature lovers. This 36,000-acre park was formed more than forty million years ago and its peaks and gorges are covered with laurel forests, ancient trees and a great variety of vegetation. There are countless trails to explore the area on foot, by mountain bike or on horseback, taking you through the most stunning countryside, passing through small villages and ending at isolated beaches.
Plantlife here includes two hundred species of vascular flora, while the terrestrial fauna includes 1,900 species of invertebrate, a hundred of which are exclusive to Anaga. As such, the Park is a haven for reptiles and small mammals, while above circle shearwaters, kestrels, owls, Bolle’s pigeons and laurel pigeons; two ancient species that are native to the Canaries. Its surrounding waters are also a protected part of the Reserve and are excellent for scuba diving, with vertical walls, black coral and the basaltic reef making a great environment for spotting mantas, barracudas and sharks.
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BEACHES Away from the large resorts for which Tenerife is perhaps unjustly renowned, there are a variety of beaches to be found that don’t get overrun. Here are some suggestions, which are by no means exhaustive. Abama Beach (28.185.536N, 16.805.072W) on the west coast is small, at just 100 metres wide, but being tucked away below an upscale hotel, not many tourists stumble across it. Its golden sands are secluded, while full facilities are on offer, including one of the hotel’s restaurants. Martín Berasategui’s two Michelin starred ‘MB’ restaurant is also in the hotel, as is the one Michelin star Japanese ‘Abama Kabuki’.
On the north coast, there is a trio of nearby beaches to choose from, within the Anaga Country Park. All three have black volcanic sand, and are nestled against steep cliffs that plunge into the Atlantic. Roque de Las Bodegas (28.569.000N, 16.206.358W), Almáciga Beach (28.571.789N, 16.205.070W), and Benijo Beach (28.576.537N, 16.183.740W) are popular with surfers for their powerful waves, which aren’t for everyone. Antequera Beach (28.535.470N, 16.132.248W) is a remote, 400-metre long stretch of fine, black sand, south-facing and at the easterly tip of the island, within the Anaga reserve. Because the beach is a 3.5 hour hike from the nearest car park, most
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visitors arrive by boat, via a 20-minute excursion from Playa de Las Teresitas, the artificial beach near Santa Cruz. Best visited at low tide, the beach is never crowded and is popular with nudists. If you like beaches with a livelier atmosphere, opt instead for El Duque Beach (28.091.393N, 16.7440.17W) on the Costa Adeje. With several 5-star chain hotels nearby, you won’t be alone, but it doesn’t get overrun, unlike some beaches further south. The Blue Flag beach has fine, grey sand and all the resort facilities you would expect. The resort itself is pleasant enough and offers many places to eat and drink, as well as a smart shopping mall. Windsurfers and kitesurfers should aim for El Cabezo Beach (28.294.791N, 16.368.112W), on the east coast, which is considered one the best in Europe for watersports. The location forms part of the PWA world tour for the discipline of wave sailing, which is at its best when the trade winds blow
N-NE. The nearby town of El Médano has a bohemian hippie vibe, as it’s where the surfers and ‘gurfers’ hang out. Even if not stopping off at the beach at Los Gigantes (28.243.141N, 16.837.688W), the impressive cliff formation is worth going to see, on the western side of the island. These enormous cliffs stand up to 600 metres tall, stretching from the port of Los Gigantes to Punta de Teno, the westernmost point of the island. This imposing basalt formation was considered by Guanches to be a sacred area, which they called the ‘Wall of Hell’. The cliffs continue to the seabed, 30m below the water’s surface, which is covered in black calcaric seaweed and sponges and is home to all kinds of sea life. As such, this area is popular with divers and with sports fishing fans, as it is a rich hunting ground for bigger fish and cetaceans.
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DINING OUT Tenerife currently boasts four Michelin-starred restaurants, with many more truly great dining rooms to be found. By contrast, note that among Europe’s most popular yachting destinations, Sardinia and Ibiza each have just one.
M.B**
Ritz Carlton Abama +34 922 12 60 00 The signature restaurant of Basque chef Martín Berasategui, whose restaurants now hold no less than seven Michelin stars between them. Inspired interpretations of Spanish cuisine are his trademark.
El Rincón de Juan Carlos* Los Gigantes +34 922 86 80 40
Owned and run by two chef brothers, with their wives and mothers-in-law also working here, this family-run restaurant serves seafood-oriented Canarian cuisine of the highest order.
Nub*
San Cristóbal De La Laguna +34 922 07 76 06 Set in a hotel that was a former tobacco factory, Nub’s Chilean and Italian chefs fuse their respective cuisines, using local ingredients, presented in a minimalist modern setting. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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LA GOMERA J
ust a hop across from Tenerife’s west coast lies the tiny island of La Gomera. This World Biosphere Reserve is home to a population of 22,000 people and its economy is mostly tourism, with visitors attracted to its rugged landscape and unspoiled nature. Gomera’s profile resembles that of Anaga Natural Park, in Tenerife’s north east, with mountain peaks and gorges that are bedecked with ancient forests. It is a hiker’s paradise for walkers seeking peace and tranquillity, where the soundtrack is that of mountain streams and wildlife. To make the most of a visit to La Gomera, take a tour around the island, visiting some of its small towns
and hamlets, fruit plantations and Forestara vineyards. One town at the top of the list will be Agulo, which is the island’s smallest, but also its best preserved and most picturesque. It lies on a natural platform with fabulous views over the ocean and Teide, on neighbouring Tenerife. One of the best viewpoints on La Gomera is Mirador de Abrante, a restaurant perched on a cliff high above Agulo. The restaurant is run by a tour operator and while food is of a decent standard, this place’s USP is a glass corridor, with glass floor, jutting out over the cliff’s edge. Even if not dining, staff generally let visitors sample the extraordinary view.
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LA PALMA
N
orthwest of La Gomera lies the slightly larger island of La Palma, the greenest of all the Canaries, which hit the headlines in 2021 due to a large volcanic eruption lasting three months.
huge walls of solid lava standing up to 70 metres tall and gases still seeping from the crater.
While locals continue to adjust to the devastation inflicted on the homes of 7,000 ‘Palmeros’, most of the The eruption was declared officially over in December 2021, leaving behind island remains as before. Rainforest canopies on the volcanic ridge in the some new beaches and natural sea north give way to barren desert hills pools on the rock. Life goes on as in the south, with a hundred miles of normal in most of the island, with the exception of some areas of the charred beaches and coves around the perimeter. municipalities of El Paso, Los Llanos de Aridane, Tazacorte, Mazo and Updates to the status of hiking trails Fuencaliente, which were affected by are published daily, so if intending the lava and ash. to explore the island on foot, check with local guides for information on The affected area is now fascinating available routes. for students of seismic events, with Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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TOWNS AND VILLAGES From the capital, Santa Cruz, to towns and villages elsewhere, La Palma feels affluent. Many buildings stemming from its days as a colonial trading post are well kept, while its economy is maintained through tourism and as a major grower of agricultural produce. The city centre is picturesque with historic cobbled streets and picturesque balconies, as well as a pleasant 1km-long seaside promenade. San Andrés is a small, sleepy seaside village with attractive houses and parks to explore, while down on the seafront, the natural pools at Charco Azul are worth a look. Los Llanos de Aridane is another standout attractive town, while Villa de Mazo is the crafts centre of La Palma and is renowned for its embroidery, to which there is a dedicated museum inside ‘The Red House’.
MUSEUMS La Palma is one of the world’s best places for stargazing. There is no light pollution to speak of, while any cloud typically forms between 1,000- 2,000 metres above sea level, well below the Los Muchachos peak. Here stands the largest astronomical observatory in the Northern Hemisphere. ORM is a world class prestigious scientific research centre with 13 advanced telescopes, including the Gran Telescopio Canarias, currently the largest optical-infrared telescope in the world. Night-time public tours are not permitted, but guided tours are available in the morning and must be booked in advance. ORM transmits live nighttime footage and previous videos can be found here: bit.ly/ORM-Estela.
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DINING OUT The local fare in La Palma is fresh fish and octopus, rabbit and goat, served with the customary ‘papas bonitas’, the South American wrinkly potatoes, cooked skinon and served with piquant ‘salsa mojo’. As a major banana producer, the island’s sweet variety features in many dishes too. La Palma has three notable, Michelinlisted, restaurants. El Jardín de la Sal (+34 922 97 98 00), in Las Caletas has a basic dining room and terrace, which don’t look particularly promising, but well cooked and creatively presented seafood dishes are high quality. Another is El Rincón de Moraga (+34 922 46 45 64), in the west, situated in an old house with a rustic ambience, serving contemporary traditional and fusion cuisine. Another is Casa Osmunda (+34 922 41 26 35), in the hills above Santa Cruz, where the quality cuisine belies its external roadside appearance.
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EL HIERRO
E
l Hierro (aka ‘Ferro Island’), is the smallest and the most southwestern of the eight Canary Islands. Also referred to as ‘Isla del Meridiano’, El Hierro had been determined by Ptolemy to be the westernmost point of the ‘Fortunate Islands’, as the Canaries were originally known. The Greek astronomer and geographer in 150 AD drew the meridian line through what was thought to be the end of the world, before most navigators
settled on using Greenwich, in Great Britain. With a surface area of just over 100 square miles and 11,000 population, El Hierro’s main activity is agriculture and tropical farming, as a major exporter of banana and pineapple. It also draws low level ‘slow tourism’ from some 20,000 travellers each year, seeking solitude and unspoiled nature, including its thermal spring waters.
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PLACES OF INTEREST El Hierro’s volcanic topography is similar to that of its neighbours, though there are no beaches to speak of. For hiking, other islands offer finer trails, particularly La Palma, though this one has plenty to offer walkers of all abilities. Sabinosa, in the west, is the nearest village to the communal pastures of La Dehesa, and to El Sabinar, a juniper forest with fascinating trees twisted by the wind. Several trails lead from here, particularly to the Mancáfete Nature Reserve.
But the most interesting development in recent times came in 2018, when this became the world’s first island to switch off its last power station, to rely exclusively on renewable energy. Having created an underground hydroelectric and wind-powered system (Gorona del Viento), El Hierro will doubtless become a closely monitored off-grid model that may well be replicated all over the world. It is dotted with electric car charging stations and Wi-Fi is free(!) all over the island.
On the coast above Sabinosa is El Hierro’s fabled ‘Pozo de Salud’ or ‘health well’. The well was drilled in 1702 to provide drinking water for livestock, though after humans drank it too, they found their health improved. In the mid19th century, the spring water was declared ‘mining medicinal’ and began to be commercialised, with exports even reaching Cuba and Puerto Rico. Along the coast from Sabinosa, heading north, are the most popular natural pools with locals, at La Maceta. West facing, this is a lovely spot at sunset, though best avoided at high tide when the ocean washes over the edge.
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For a dining experience with a stunning view, visit the Manriquedesigned Mirador de la Peña (+34 922 55 03 00) at Roques de Salmor, with its jaw-dropping outlook across ‘El Golfo’. It’s fair to say that in a setting like this, the food can take second place, but you may not notice. In the north, there are some charming villages and hamlets worth a visit, such as Pozo de las Calcosas, with houses of bare volcanic rock with thatched roofs made from rye bushels. Hewn out
of the rugged coastline are a number of natural pools, popular with bathers. Close by is the picturesque village of El Mocanal, which is famous in the area for the ornate decoration of its streets for Corpus Christi each May. Towards the south-west, in the centre of the island is the Parque Cultural de El Julan, with an exhibition of El ’Hierros most important cultural sights. ‘Los Letreros’ are a series of lava panels with ancient aboriginal Bimbache engravings.
DIVING Another of El Hierro’s attractions is world class scuba diving. With marine life reinvigorated after an underwater volcanic eruption in 2011, its dive sites have come back to life. Off the southern tip at La Restinga are steep drop offs as far as 300 metres, with underwater cliffs, shelves, sandy platforms and caves. Visibility averages 30m, though can extend up to 50m. Hidden in the many
cracks and crevasses with black and yellow corals and sponges, with lobsters, shrimp and seahorses in abundance. Among the larger marine life to be found are tuna, parrotfish, groupers, flatfish, angel sharks, octopus, stingrays and morays. Seasonal visitors can include sand tiger sharks, mantas, whale sharks, as well as dolphins and turtles.
Just the service you need
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THE
BAHAMAS
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S A M A BAH
O
ne glance at a map makes it obvious why The Bahamas, on the Lucayan Archipelago, is a popular playground for superyachts. Seven hundred islands and 2400 islets, or ‘cays’, lie in shallow turquoise waters, with pristine beaches. The name ‘Bahamas’ is derived from the Spanish ‘baja mar’, or ‘shallow sea’. During a visit in the 1760s, George Washington referred to The Bahamas as the ‘Isles of Perpetual June’, enjoying 310 days of sunshine per year. Temperatures rarely dip below 20°C in winter, or rise above 32°C in summer. Canadian astronaut, Chris Hadfield -- infamous for his rendition of David
Bowie’s “Space Oddity” on the ISS -- was asked in an interview with the UK’s Daily Telegraph which part of Earth looked most beautiful from space. “The Bahamas are gorgeous”, was his first answer. “The deep trench in the ocean floor, the ‘Tongue of the Ocean’ between the islands, is the most beautiful deep indigo colour.”
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The northern tip of The Commonwealth of The Bahamas, to give the country its full name, is just 70 miles off S. Florida’s Atlantic coast. Its islands stretch 750 miles from Grand Bahama south-east to Great Inagua, just 50 miles across the water from the Cuban town of Baracoa. When Christopher Columbus first landed here in 1492, interest in The
Bahamas was purely strategic, as European colonialists sought to gain control over this important gateway to the Americas. The natives were South American Lukku-cairi tribes, or ‘Lucayos’, as Spanish settlers called them. Eventually, the archipelago became British territory, before gaining independence in 1973, though today cars continue to drive on the wrong side of the road.
Image from NASA Visible Earth: The Bahamas, Florida, and Cuba
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The bulk of today’s travellers to the islands tend to be tourists arriving by cruise ship, docking at Nassau or Freeport, or by short haul flight from the US and Canada. The Bahamas’ two main airports are under three hours away from New York, Atlanta, Houston and Toronto, and just a hop from Miami or Fort Lauderdale. The fortunate few arrive by superyacht, of course, though marina capacity for larger yachts is limited. Aside from an economy mostly driven by US tourism, another of The Bahamas’ core activities is financial services, making it one of the more
affluent island states in the West Indies. What awaits holidaymakers is countless unspoiled beaches, coral reefs, forests and mangroves, as well as some historical sites of interest. And, not least, swimming pigs! The Bahamian population, its commerce and its tourism are centred around Nassau and New Providence island, Grand Bahama and Paradise Island, which is linked directly to the capital. The country’s 400,000 residents are spread across only thirty islands, leaving the rest mostly uninhabited. There’s plenty of space to get away from it all, in other words.
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HIGHLIGHTS If it’s fine dining, clubbing, entertainment or shopping you seek, or high rolling at the gaming tables, Paradise Island and New Providence have you covered. Golfers will find some of the best courses on New Providence and Paradise Island, at Albany and at Ocean Club, respectively. However, one of the highest-rated courses in the Bahamas (if not the world) is located on Abaco, where the stunning Abaco Club on Winding Bay links course is a favourite with some of golf’s greatest
names. Another is Baker’s Bay in Great Guana Cay, which just happens to be next to a superyacht marina. For scuba diving and snorkelling, the best sites are on Bimini, Exumas, Grand Bahama, New Providence, Abacos, Andros and Southern Bahamas, depending on your preference. The best big game fishing is to be found off Bimini, in the waters around New Providence, Treasure Cay and Green Turtle Cay in the Abacos and in the Exumas. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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BEACHES, BEACHES, BEACHES Here in the West Indies, palm-lined beaches of pure white sand are ten-a-penny and, especially with a tender at your disposal, it’s easy to find one that fits the bill. Some of the finest stretches of Bahamian fine sand can be found here: Cable Beach (New Providence), a 4-mile strip boasting a wide choice of beachfront cafés, restaurants and shops; Cabbage Beach (Paradise Island) is reminiscent of the notorious Playa d’en Bossa in Ibiza, given its close proximity to the island’s nightlife and large hotels; Paradise Beach, at the northern end, tends to be quieter; Grand Bahama’s Xanadu Beach is another favourite, though the island has numerous, quieter stretches of white sand along its 60-mile coastline; Tahiti Beach in Abacos is remote and best accessed by boat, making it a popular spot for yacht-dwellers;
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Ten Bay Beach on Eleuthera is the perfect location for a private beach set-up, being isolated and devoid of any nearby facilities; Harbour Island (off Eleuthera) where the famous Pink Sands Beach stretches for three miles along its eastern coast, lined only by a smattering of exclusive boutique hotels and private residences. A long coral reef provides some of the calmest waters in the islands; Saddle Cay is a hairpin-shaped islet, towards the northern extreme of the Exumas, and provides perfect shelter for swimming. At the southern end of the Exumas, around 100 miles away, Stocking Island has the finest white sandy beaches and is popular with snorkellers and divers. This is also the home of the infamous ‘Chat ‘N’ Chill’ shack, where each Sunday’s pig roast turns into a beach party for boats moored in Elizabeth Harbour; Tropic of Cancer Beach, also known as Pelican Beach, is the longest beach on Little Exuma and is where the meridian line marks the northern extreme of the Tropics. It has the most blindingly white, powdery sand and pale azure waters.
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ABACO ISLANDS A
t the top of The Bahamas archipelago, this crescent-shaped cluster of islands consists of Little Abaco, at the northern tip, down to Great Abaco, stretching 130 miles south, flanked by numerous cays. The ‘Out Islands’, as the quieter islands are collectively labelled, are rustic and (much) more laid back than the ritzier New Providence and Grand Bahama. The Abacos are about sailing, fishing and scuba diving, while its pine forests and flats are frequented by hunters of boar and wild fowl. Two
of the country’s best golf courses are also here. Keen anglers come from far afield, chasing blue marlin, yellowfin tuna, wahoo and amberjack, among other biggame fish to be found off these shores. Walker’s Cay in particular is renowned for its sport fishing competitions.
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For scuba divers, the Abaco Sea’s calm, shallow waters are great for relaxed dives on pristine coral reefs, with Marsh Harbour’s Mermaid Beach a particularly colourful example. For more challenging dives, Pelican Cays is known for its caves, reefs and plentiful marine life, off Great Abaco. There are also a number of shipwrecks dating back to the American Civil War, such as the gunboat USS Adirondack, off ManO-War Cay. For some of the best golf in The Bahamas, Abaco Club on Winding Bay is a links course and is a firm favourite with some of golf’s greatest names. Another is Baker’s Bay in Great Guana Cay, adjacent to a superyacht marina (<76m) and is where many a film, music or sports star can be found kicking back. The first incoming settlers in Abaco were some 600 British Loyalists, fleeing the New England states shortly after US independence in 1776. Echoing the architectural style of their former home, the islands have an attractive ‘Cape Cod’ feel to them, with wood shingle and clapboard buildings, painted in pastel shades and white picket fences.
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The Abacos’ capital is Marsh Harbour, served by Leonard M. Thompson Airport (MYAM), next to Abaco Beach Resort Marina (<61m). With just 6,000 inhabitants, Marsh Harbour doesn’t offer a great deal in terms of shops and amenities, though the well-stocked supermarket here is useful for dayto-day provisions. A short drive north lies Treasure Cay Marina (<47m), with the island’s eponymous second airport (MYAT) not far away, making Great Abaco a perfect embarkation point for US-based owners and guests. From here, it is easy to explore the rest of the ‘Loyalist Cays’, which are sparsely populated, but offer beautiful beaches, sand bars and colonial style homes and lighthouses. The Abacos were hit especially hard by hurricane Dorian in 2019, destroying some of the islands’ key attractions, so by visiting and spending money in local establishments, you will be helping them rebuild.
One remaining institution is the bijou Wyannie Malone Museum, which tells the story of a mother widowed in the American revolution, who fled to the Bahamas with her four children and helped to found Hope Town. The small exhibition provides a fascinating insight into Bahamian history, filled with pirates, smugglers and the slave trade. While the swimming pigs of the Exumas may be the best known in The Bahamas, another porcine herd can be found at No Name Cay, the nature reserve at the southern tip of Green Turtle Cay. Also known as ‘Piggyville’, a popular local activity is to feed and splash around with the pigs, and to grab a selfie with one, of course. But be warned, the animals are wild and have been known to bite when irritated.
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GRAND BAHAMA 60 miles off West Palm Beach Just lies Grand Bahama, second
only to New Providence as a major national trade centre, with Freeport having one of the region’s largest bunkering facilities and a significant commerce and financial services industry. Its two main urban centres, Freeport and Lucaya, continue to rebuild after 2019’s destructive hurricane Dorian hit the island hard, along with the Abacos. They offer a mix of shops, bars, restaurants and music venues, but Grand Bahama’s greatest draw are its natural assets. Resort and cruise
ship tourism is mostly concentrated around Freeport, leaving the rest of the island largely undeveloped. Grand Bahama Airport (FPO/MYGF) at Freeport is The Bahamas’ second largest airport, with daily scheduled flights from South Florida. The island’s main superyacht marinas are Grand Bahama Yacht Club (<61m), just 10 minutes’ drive away and Old Bahama Bay Resort (<36m), a 45-minute transfer by road to the western tip of the island. Alternatively, private flights can land directly at West End Airport (MYGW). Port Lucaya Marina remained closed at time of writing. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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The 40-acre Lucayan National Park is renowned for its six mile-long underground freshwater cave system, which is one of the longest in the world. While the caves are home to tiny bats, fish and crustaceans, the park also has forests, swamps, shrubland and sand dunes, holding a large variety of flora and fauna, including orchids, hummingbirds and barn owls. Beware of the picnic area on the beach, though, where racoons will brazenly relieve you of your lunch. There are more swimming pigs to be found at Crystal Beach and while the most Instagrammable beach here is Xanadu Beach, its close proximity to Freeport’s resort hotels means it can get crowded at times. A great way to explore Grand Bahama’s stunning coastline is on horseback, taking riders around the island along various beaches and through the shallows. The quietest sands lie east of Port Lucaya and are best explored by tender, away from the madding crowds.
Like the Abacos, Grand Bahama offers world class sport fishing, snorkelling and scuba diving. Deep sea anglers will pursue marlin, tuna, mahi mahi (dolphinfish), wahoo or barracuda, but the island is best known for its fly fishing, where bonefish is the big prize. This ‘grey ghost of the flats’ is renowned for its agility and strength and violently resists being reeled in. For snorkellers there are some great coral beds to explore at Silver Point Reef and Gold Rock, as well as Ben’s Cavern, a stunning cave. Guided snorkel trips include visits to a turtle sanctuary and sites where you’ll get close to stingrays, lobsters and an array of fish, with big game visible in the distance. Numerous dive sites around Grand Bahama provide everything from reef dives to cave dives, while guided dives with sharks and dolphins are also popular.
Tip: Shopping in Grand Bahama is limited to local arts and crafts, but if looking for a souvenir or gift to take home, consider stopping by The Perfume Factory, behind Freeport’s International Bazaar. Take the short tour to see the scent-making process and take the opportunity to mix your own signature fragrance, bottle and name it.
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ANDROS B
y far the largest island in The Bahamas, Andros is 100 miles long and 40 miles across, though is home to only 7,500 inhabitants. Technically, it is an archipelago in its own right, divided into North, Central and South Andros, and Mangrove Cay.
Flat and densely forested, the landscape is marked by many bays, rivers, lakes and water-filled craters, or ‘blue holes’, with villages scattered sparsely around an otherwise unspoiled nature reserve. Across its five protected national parks, Andros is 1.5 million acres of pristine forest, bush and mangrove and is a haven
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for ecotourists. Aside from its natural attributes above the waterline, off the eastern coast lies the world’s third largest barrier reef, making this a mecca for scuba divers from around the world. The west coast is mostly deserted marshland, also called ‘the Mud’, and is effectively unnavigable by boat due to shallow, treacherous shoals. Settlements that are home to most of the population are dotted along the east coast, sustained by farming and fishery. Tourism levels are low, though the island is served by four coastal airports -- Andros Town (MYAF), San Andros (MYAN), Clarence A. Bain Airport (MYAB) and Congo
Town (MYAF) -- making it easy to embark here. The main attraction of Andros, aside from walking or kayaking through the untouched terrain and getting at one with nature, is the Blue Holes National Park. These deep, fresh water-filled sinkholes and caves are unique to Andros and offer a chance to cool off and enjoy the surrounding lush forests and birdlife. The most popular example is Captain Bill’s Blue Hole (insert your own joke here), with its jump-off platform into the deep below. Other popular on-land pursuits are boar hunting, bird watching and visiting the Androsia batik factory,
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Tip: Don’t forget your mosquito repellent when exploring Andros
where you can discover the wax method of making batik materials and even design your own creation. If you’re a crab fan, the ‘All Andros Crab Festival’, held each June, is worth a visit. The festival celebrates the crabbing traditions of the island, also known as ‘The Land of Crabs’, which are most abundant in the summer rainy season. Thousands of visitors descend on CrabFest to experience highlights such as ‘Crab Cooked 101 Ways’, culinary competitions, displays and other events, all set to a ‘rake ’n scrape’ soundtrack. Like most of the Bahamas, the big game fishing off Andros is superb, but the diving off its eastern coast is
in a league of its own. Here lies the indigo ‘Tongue of the Ocean’ that Chris Hadfield saw from space, a trench 140 miles long and a mile deep. Nine hundred square miles of coral reef makes this one of the top diving destinations in the world. Underwater formations include some 200 blue holes, ancient limestone caves hailing from the ice age, caverns, swim-throughs, walls and wrecks. Marine life includes green moray eels, Nassau grouper, Atlantic spadefish, reef sharks and lots of pelagics. Currents are medium to strong, but there are plenty of sheltered spots for less experienced divers. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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NASSAU, NEW PROVIDENCE AND PARADISE ISLAND New Providence takes its name from a 17th century governor’s thanks to ‘Divine Providence’ for surviving a shipwreck. The ‘New’ preface was added to avoid confusion with Old Providence, in British Honduras, which is now Belize. Nassau was originally named Charles Towne, after Charles II, and renamed Nassau in 1695 when the city was rebuilt, in honour of William III, Prince of Orange-Nassau While the Out Islands are the main draw for superyachts, New Providence and the country’s capital, Nassau, offer a more lively Bahamian experience. Neighbouring Paradise Island and its purpose built leisure resorts, meanwhile, provide something different entirely. Atlantis is where Las Vegas meets Orlando, with purpose-built hotels, aqua parks, casinos, golf courses, family restaurants and shopping. Primarily aimed at vacationing families and passing cruise ships, this is unlikely to be your top destination in the Bahamas.
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Nassau and New Providence, however, have a bit more charisma, even if they are very touristic. Nassau’s colonial past is evident from the architecture and while many of its 265,000 inhabitants are on the ‘cruise ship hustle’, away from the city’s high streets it is possible to get away from the tourist hordes. New Providence does have some excellent beaches with white sands and great snorkelling, such as Love Beach and Cable Beach, though if visiting by yacht, you’re likely to prefer the quieter sands on other islands. A remnant of Nassau’s history is Fort Fincastle, at the top of Bennett’s Hill in the heart of the city, completed in 1793 as a defence from pirates. To reach it, walk the 66 steps up the ‘Queen’s Staircase’, named for Queen Victoria and hewn out of limestone by 600 enslaved workers over 16 years. Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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Worth a visit is the National Art Gallery of the Bahamas, housed in the 1860s Villa Doyle, offering a unique insight into Bahamian history and culture through the art of its people. The gardens house many sculptures and colourful murals, with great views over the city and beyond. If visiting over the Christmas holiday period, an unmissable event in Nassau is the Junkanoo festival. Its origins go back to times of slavery, two centuries ago, when enslaved people of The Bahamas would be given three days off over Christmas. During this time, they would celebrate their African heritage with homemade
colourful costumes and improvised instruments. Today, Junkanoo centres around two parades, on Boxing Day and New Year’s Day, in a giant street party that is a riot of music and colourful costumes. An institution on the Nassau hospitality scene is Graycliff Hotel, an 18th century mansion owned since the 1970s by larger than life Italian proprietor, Enrico Garzaroli. Graycliff has hosted every A-lister imaginable, from film stars to musicians, politicians and sports stars, including Paul Newman, Salma Hayek, Nelson Mandela, Mariah Carey, The Beatles, Michael Jordan and Winston Churchill.
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The dining room feels like a throwback in time, with white-tuxedoed waiters scurrying around to the sound of a grand piano once played by Billy Joel. While ingredients are sourced from far and wide and the menu is creative, the restaurant’s most remarkable aspect is a 120-page, 5,200-bottle wine list. Another favourite in Nassau itself is Café Matisse, an oddly-named Italian restaurant, tucked away behind the city’s busy streets. The best restaurants in the wider area are the likes of Dune, Nobu and Bahamian Club, located at the resorts on Paradise Island, across the bridge. photo jcdonelson da Pixabay
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BERRY ISLANDS T
hirty-five miles north of Nassau lie the Berry Islands, a cluster of 30 islands and cays, sparsely populated, partly privately owned and a favourite spot to drop anchor. Great Harbour Cay Marina here is also referred to as the ‘Hurricane Hole’, providing safety to yachts up to 46 metres. Given its proximity to Nassau, daytrippers tend to hop over to Great Harbour Cay to take in a proper Bahamas island experience, but there is no resort tourism to be found. ‘GHC’, as the island is known locally, has an air of faded glory, as the former playground of past luminaries, including the likes of Brigitte Bardot, Margot Fonteyn and Ingrid Bergman.
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The ‘Berries’ are renowned for worldclass game fishing, topped in The Bahamas only by Bimini, in the deep waters at the top of the ‘Tongue of the Ocean’, but also for shallow-water bone fishing. The capital of the Berries is Bullock’s Harbour, commonly known as ‘The Village’, and is where the majority of locals live. You will find a number of
shops, grocery stores, restaurants and bars here. Chub Cay Resort & Marina is close to a deep-sea pocket where the ocean ‘tonge’ meets the Northwest Providence channel, forming a junction that holds up big game fish. The marina facilitates yachts of up to 50m. The GHC annual Wahoo Invitational Fishing Tournament is held each February.
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BIMINI T
he Biminis, formed of North and South Bimini, separated by a narrow ocean passage, are the nearest Bahamian point to Florida, just 50 miles from the beaches of Miami. To indulge his passion for fishing, Hemingway arrived in the mid1930s, writing To Have and Have Not here, about a sports fishing guide who turns to crime during the Great Depression. After publication, he moved to Spain to report on the Civil War, where Ronda became the
Credit to Wikimedia
The rumour that these islands are where the eponymous covers found on most boats originated, appears wholly unfounded. Aside from that myth, The Biminis’ main claims to fame are as a favoured hideaway of the writer, Ernest Hemingway, and as one of the world’s top spots for big game fishing and scuba diving.
Ernest Hemingway with Pauline, Gregory, John, and Patrick Hemingway and four marlins on the dock in Bimini, 20 July 1935.
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author’s second home, due to his fascination with bullfighting (see The Y 2018 edition). His posthumouslypublished novel, Islands in the Stream, about an American painter who finds tranquillity on Bimini, put the islands on the map for American visitors. Today, The Biminis remain mostly undeveloped, though with most of the population and tourism concentrated along the narrow strip north from the capital, Alice Town, it can seem busy at peak season. There are few attractions to visit, but one unusual spot is the
Dolphin House ‘Poem In Stone’, a mini museum created by local author and historian, Ashley Saunders. Started in 1993 and inspired by swimming with dolphins, Saunders has created a homespun tribute to the sea, featuring ornate mosaics made from scraps of sea glass, shells, artefacts, rum bottles and all sorts of flotsam and jetsam. The overall effect is a Gaudi-like riot of colour, while there’s a small gift shop too, where you will find some original souvenirs, genuinely made here.
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FISHING IN BIMINI Whether it’s fly fishing, reef fishing, big game, or even spear fishing, The Biminis have it all. Because of the islands’ proximity to the gulfstream, baitfish congregate here in large numbers, in turn attracting the larger predators. In the islands’ flats, there is fly fishing for the elusive bonefish, but also for permit fish. These can weigh in at over 10 kilos and are found in the deeper shallows along the rocky shoreline, baited with live crab. One of the big prizes for sport fishers is billfish, which are most commonly caught from late Spring. Also found then are sailfish, white and blue marlin and swordfish are there too. Depending on the time of year, tuna fishing is also big, with yellowfin, blackfin and bluefin all present. Outside of the warmer months, wahoo is the most prevalent game fish off Bimini.
If you prefer a more relaxed style of angling, reef fishing trips will yield a variety of snapper and grouper, which are abundant during the summer months. In deeper waters, horse eye jack and amberjack can be found too. Spear fishers may want to chance their arm on the rich reefs, though in all instances, a licence is required. Local dive guides like to regale visitors with tales of the Lost City of Atlantis, which they speculate may lie at just a few metres’ depth off North Bimini. A symmetrical limestone formation of large, hewn blocks stretches for 800 metres, suggesting they may have been man-made. Discovered in 1968, the legend that they form part of Plato’s mythical city is irresistible, and doesn’t harm tourist interest, of course. On the surrounding reefs, divers will find an abundance of conch, lobster, eels and many tropical fish.
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ELEUTHERA I
n 1648, a Puritan landowner, Captain William Sayle, and a band of Bermudans and fellow Brits set off from Bermuda, leaving behind civil war and religious persecution to found what would become The Bahamas. They landed on what the native Arawaks called ‘Citagoo’ and christened it Eleuthera, the Greek word for liberty. A tablet marking the spot where Captain Sayle and his fellow refugees sheltered after being shipwrecked on Devil’s Backbone reef, can be found at Preacher’s Cave in the north.
The settlers could have done worse. Eleuthera and its close neighbours, Spanish Wells and Harbour Island, are stunning places on earth. The island is around 170 kilometres long, but only 3 km wide, forming a sliver of land flanked by pink-ish and white beaches, cliffs and coves on either side. Eleuthera has the largest concentration of resort hotels of the Out Islands, but there are no casinos or luxury shopping malls here. The island has a sleepy Boho atmosphere and remains largely undeveloped, retaining a Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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rugged beauty. Most of the buildings are pastel-coloured cottages, housing around 10,000 inhabitants working in farming, fishing and ‘slow’ tourism.
island, down south there is the ghost village ‘Old Bannerman Town’, located halfway between the eponymous ‘new’ town and Lighthouse Beach.
Governor’s Harbour is the main commercial hub of Eleuthera and the largest town on the island. Friday Night Fish Fry is the big social event here each week.
Another deserted site is the ‘US Navy Experimental Facility, Eleuthera’, established in 1950 to house an experimental sound surveillance system for tracking Soviet submarines. In 1957 the Eleuthera Auxiliary Air Force Base began operations here, monitoring missile launches, targets, satellites and lunar probes for US armed forces.
Three airports -- North Eleuthera (MYEH), Governor’s Harbour (MYEM) and Rock Sound International (MYER) -- make embarkation here easy from the North American mainland. Like most of The Bahamas, holidays here are about the beach, watersports, fishing and diving. Exploring the
If visiting with young children wanting a break from the beach, consider a visit to Hilltop Farms, a farm and animal centre with a small petting zoo.
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Fine beaches on Eleuthera are too numerous to list them all, but highlights include Ten Bay Beach (not to be confused with Ben Bay Beach here also), which is particularly remote and expansive, perfect for a beach set-up. Obviously, the calmer beaches are on the western coast, while surfers will find the best Atlantic waves rolling in at the eastern north-central stretch of coastline. For faster breaks, head for Holiday Beach, just south of Surfer’s Beach, which is rocky and doesn’t offer much for non-surfers. The biggest waves can be found at Hatchet Bay Beach, but it comes with added danger from strong currents and hazardous rocks. To see the contrast between the two coasts, stop at Glass Window Bridge, a skinny natural bridge just north of Gregory Town. Here, the width of the island is just a few metres and, because of the absence of reefs, high rolling waves of up to ten metres can roll in unchecked, blasting through the small archway under the bridge, with spectacular effect. Nearby, the rather more sedate Queen’s Baths are deep tide pools that warm up deliciously in mid to low tide and the sea is calm. It’s a lovely place to luxuriate, though beware when the waters get rough, as bathers can get swept out to sea.
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Some of the best snorkelling is at Sponge Cove Beach, where the grassy sea bed attracts turtles and lots of fish, as well as passing sharks. Receiver’s Beach at Alabaster Bay is a mile-long stretch of fine sand, popular with families, with the benefit of a smart boutique resort nearby for drinks or a bite to eat. French Leave Beach, also known as Club Med Beach -- for the holiday resort that stood nearby and was never rebuilt after Hurricane Floyd in 1999 -is one the best beaches on the Atlantic side. Although exposed to easterly winds, waters are protected by the nearby reef. A particular favourite stop here is Tippy’s restaurant and
beach bar, with tables made from old shutters and antique piano keyboards hanging from the ceiling. The best dive sites in Eleuthera lie off Harbour Island, with a number of wrecks to be explored. ‘Train Wreck’ is a 19th century barge that sank carrying a steam locomotive, but the best known dive here is ‘Current Cut’. This is a fast moving underwater gully that sweeps divers along at up to 10 knots for several minutes. It’s a popular drift dive, good for snorkelling too, with turtles, rays and sharks in abundance. Bonefishing is big here too, in the flats, while snapper, amberjacks and barracuda can be found further out.
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HARBOUR ISLAND I
f life is slow on Eleuthera, it is completely horizontal on neighbouring Harbour Island. Often labelled the ‘Nantucket of the Bahamas’, but without the fancy boutiques, this is where the well-heeled come to kick back and relax. Houses are colonial style, the oldest dating back to 1797, painted in pastel shades, surrounded by white picket fences. The favoured mode of transport is a golf cart and roosters are free range and everywhere. Harbour Island even has its very own swimming pigs. ‘Briland’, as the locals abbreviate it, also boasts a number of high-end hotels, quality restaurants and, importantly, two marinas that can accommodate yachts of up to 60 metres.
centre of the island’s social scene, with craft shops, cafés and upscale restaurants. An Instagrammer’s must is the ‘lone tree’ on nearby Girls Bank beach. A single tree wound up rooted on the sands in a 1992 hurricane and became a unique landmark that featured in countless photoshoots. While the original tree was swept away by a subsequent hurricane, it was such a popular feature, a replacement tree stands there now.
Just 6km long and 2.5km wide, among the main attractions here is the famous Pink Sands Beach, stretching almost the entire length of the island on the Atlantic side. The strand takes its pink hue from pulverised coral and foraminifera shells mixed in with the sand, making it the most special place for a long walk or horse ride. In the middle of the western coast sits Dunmore Town, a particularly photogenic village that is also the Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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Service that reflects well on you
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CAT ISLAND J
ust as there are no canaries in the Canary Islands, there are no (big) cats on Cat Island and no swimming pigs either. Named for Blackbeard contemporary, pirate Arthur Catt, this 48-mile long strip of land is best known as the place where actor Sidney Poitier grew up on his parents’ farm. Untouched by mass tourism, Cat Island is rustic, with fewer than 2,000 inhabitants scattered among tiny villages. There is some low level holiday accommodation to be found, but if visiting by yacht, it will not be hard to find a pristine, virgin beach that is perfect for some private time ashore.
There are some hiking trails and a couple of churches to visit, but the main attraction here is seclusion and beautiful anchorages for swimming, snorkelling and diving. Simple beach shacks serve up fish-fry and rum cocktails and, if in luck, some entertainment by a local rake-and-scrape band. This Bahamian variety of music is said to have originated on Cat Island and consists of rhythms played on homespun instruments, including the potentially lethal rapid scraping of a butter knife along a flexed saw’s tooth edge. Cat Island is not so much a place that offers many things to do. Instead, it is a wonderful place to do nothing.
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EXUMA ISLANDS I
narguably one of the most stunning parts of The Bahamas, in a crowded field, are the Exumas. Starting just 35 miles southeast of Nassau and stretching for a hundred miles, these 365 islands and cays offer perfect isolation, world class diving and waters that range from aquamarine to turquoise to tourmaline to cobalt blue. From the northern tip of the archipelago begins the 109-square mile ‘Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park’. This was the world’s first land-and-sea reserve, founded in 1958, designed to
protect a unique ecosystem. All fishing in the park is prohibited, though off the Exumas’ eastern Atlantic coast, there is some of the best game fishing anywhere.
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The Exumas are the perfect superyacht destination, for swimming and snorkelling, bird watching and lounging on virgin beaches that are all but deserted. There are many great spots for scuba divers, though the best diving is towards the south, off Stocking Island. Elizabeth Harbour is considered the top dive site, with blue holes to explore, underwater caves and copious coral gardens. Commonly spotted marine life in the reserve are lots of angelfish and clownfish, but also rays, reef sharks, Nassau grouper, lobsters and turtles,
as well as the occasional bull shark. The most famous site is ‘Thunderball Grotto’, off Staniel Cay, named after the James Bond movie that was partly filmed here. The grotto is a shallow network of caves and tunnels, accessible to snorkellers at low tide, but primarily a dive site. The grotto also featured in the next Bond movie, ‘Never Say Never’, inspiring Sean Connery to take up residence in Lyford Cay, New Providence. Splash, with Tom Hanks and Daryl Hannah, who lived in Nassau as a child, also filmed here.
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Staniel Cay is also where an annual bonefishing tournament is held every July, as part of Bahamian Independence Day celebrations. Another favourite site for snorkellers and divers is a shallow plane wreck at Staniel Cay. The aircraft came down after missing Norman Cay, ten miles away, which was owned by Pablo Escobar associate and chief trafficker, Carlos Lehder. Lehder had bought the island and turned it into a major cocaine transportation hub between Colombia and the US, including constructing a kilometre-long airstrip. The island featured in the Netflix series ‘Narcos’ and in ‘Blow’, the drug smuggling biopic of Lehder associate, George Jung, played by Johnny Depp. Depp would go on to buy his own Exuma island, Little Halls Pond Cay, which he affectionately calls “F*** Off Cay”, so we wouldn’t advise dropping in uninvited. Other famous private island owners past and present include Nicolas Cage, the magician David Copperfield, country stars Faith Hill and Tim McGraw and Oprah Winfrey. There are pig herds to be found on other Bahamian islands, but the country’s most famous porcine inhabitants live on Major Cay, not far from Thunderball Grotto on Staniel Cay. If arriving at the imaginatively named ‘Pig Beach’, they will swim and wade out to your tender, in search of food. As one of the must-do activities in the Exumas, just beware while trying for that perfect Instagram shot, that some of the larger hogs can be impatient and will bite. It’s advisable to stick to piglets for that cute photo.
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While the pigs were either imported by local farmers or brought here by shipwrecked explorers, native to the region are the Northern Bahamian Rock Iguanas on nearby Allen’s Cay. These endangered lizards are exclusive to the Exumas and also enjoy being fed by visitors, but you should follow the advice of local guides. Grapes are the most popular option, best administered on wooden skewers, as the iguanas are known to nibble your fingers by mistake. This breed -- their scientific name ‘Cyclura’ is derived from the Greek ‘cyclos oura’ meaning ‘round tail’ -- can live up to forty years old and grow to a metre long, weighing in at over 10 kilos, so they’re not small. They can also jump and if you’re sitting still, the bold ones will happily crawl onto you in search of snacks. Another popular animal encounter is swimming with the nurse sharks at Compass Cay, some eight miles north from Allen’s and Staniel Cays. Local fishermen feed the sharks, which is why they congregate here in large numbers. Nurse sharks grow to around four metres in length and sport a large dorsal fin, which makes them appear somewhat menacing. These sharks are accustomed to humans and they will let you stroke their brown, leathery skin. They are harmless, just don’t accidentally place an arm or hand in their mouths, as their razor sharp teeth can inflict real damage.
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Compass Cay is also a great place to arrange a deep sea fishing trip, with all-year catches of snapper and grouper, while August and September are great for tuna fishing. Twenty-six miles south, turtle feeding at (Little) Farmer’s Cay is a unique Exumas experience. Locals prepare conch on the dock, spilling or throwing the odd bit of shellfish to the Green turtles swimming below.
As such, this spot has become a daily feeding ground for a large number of turtles, rays and other fish. With a local guide, visitors can wade into the shallow waters and hand feed these amazing creatures. You’ll notice that the turtles are usually accompanied by hitchhiking remora fish, attached to the turtles with a suction pad on top of their heads, clinging on to pounce on anything spilled by the turtle.
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Another highlight is the uninhabited Shroud Cay, fifty miles south. Approaching the island from the western flank, it has several shallow creeks running inland, through the mangroves, to the Atlantic side. Here, a natural phenomenon is the ‘Washing Machine’, a fast-flowing swirl that puts swimmers and divers into a frothy spin cycle for a couple of minutes. The beaches here are stunning, even by Exuma standards, and practically deserted.
years by passing seafarers. Legend goes that the spot is haunted by the souls of a ship that perished nearby and whose spirits can be heard on the wind under moonlight. Prepare your sacrifice in advance or bring paint, scavenge and improvise.
If you’re superstitious, don’t pass up the chance to make an offering to Neptune at Warderick Wells Cay. Walk up ‘Boo Boo Hill’, the highest spot on the island, where you will find a large pile of driftwood. Each piece has the name of a boat painted on it, as good luck charms left over the
Heading down to Little Exuma and Great Exuma, another spot to check out is Tropic of Cancer Beach. Also known as Pelican Beach, it is the longest beach on Little Exuma and is located at 23º 26’ 22. 07” N - 75º 35’ 49.41” W, where the meridian line marks the northern extreme of the Tropics.
Another attraction on Warderick Wells Cay is an enormous 16-metre long skeleton of a sperm whale that died of plastic ingestion and washed ashore in 1995.
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Aside from a small beach shack and a painted blue line, there isn’t much here, but the blindingly white, powdery sand and palest azure waters are a beautiful sight for sore eyes. Not far from here stands Salt Beacon, a ten-metre high, 18th century ornate pillar, erected on a hill to guide ships to the island’s salt ponds. On Great Exuma, one of the great attractions is fly-fishing for bonefish, in the shallows on the west coast. This ‘ghost of the flats’ is renowned for its wiles and extreme resistance to being reeled in.
A couple of dilapidated sites of historical interest remain in the Exumas, namely the Rolle Town Tombs near George Town and the Hermitage plantation, both dating back to the 18th century. The tombs belong to a family of Scottish farmers, who settled here on land belonging to Lord John Rolle. Upon the abolition of slavery, his land was ceded to the enslaved people on the estate, who all took the name Rolle. Hermitage was a cotton plantation constructed by Loyalist settlers and is the last surviving example of many that once stood in the Exumas.
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LONG ISLAND L
ong Island’s claim to fame is not that it’s the longest island in The Bahamas (it isn’t), but that Christopher Columbus stopped here on his first journey to the New World. As a result, the oldest church in the country is here. This is classic, unspoiled Bahamas, with its rugged eastern cliffs pounded by Atlantic waves, while the west coast has long, pink and white sand beaches. There are ruins of historic plantations, some caves formerly occupied by natives and a smattering of buildings on this sparsely populated idyll.
Long Island’s most notable feature is Dean’s Blue Hole, the world’s second deepest blue hole at 202 metres. At surface level, the hole is enclosed on three sides by a natural rock amphitheatre and beach, forming a stunning lagoon, making it a perfect venue for the annual ‘Vertical Blue’ world freediving competition, which has been held here since 2008. Like other parts of The Bahamas, the island is great for bonefishing, while surrounding coral reefs bring lots of marine life for divers to enjoy.
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GREAT INAGUA Fans of the video game, Assassin’s Creed, will know Great Inagua as the lair of the fictional 18th century Templar, Julien du Casse, hitman, arms dealer and plantation owner. Real history buffs, however, will find little trace of anything noteworthy ever having happened here. The southernmost and third largest in The Bahamas, Great Inagua, and its uninhabited namesake, Little Inagua, may be 70 kilometres long and 30 km wide, but it is home to less than a thousand people. As such, Bahamian locals sometimes refer to Inagua as the ‘Outback’. Most of its population is of the feathered variety, with some 80,000 West Indian flamingos residing here, among 140 species of native and migratory birds to be found around the lagoons, marshes and mangroves. Inagua National Land & Sea Park covers almost half of Great Inagua, making this one of the top bird-watching destinations in this part of the world. The park is also home to thousands of wild donkeys, goats and hogs, plus a million or more mosquitoes.
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The only village on the island is Matthew Town, which revolves around salt production, for which the Inaguas are best known.There are no sights or landmarks of note, aside from the 1870 lighthouse. Fishing in Great Inagua’s Lake Rosa (also known as Lake Windsor) and off its shores is excellent. In the lakes
and ponds you will find tarpon, large snook and barracuda, while the flats are for bonefishing, of course. Nearby reefs and deep waters will yield wahoo, snapper, sailfish and kingfish. You will find Great Inagua’s white beaches deserted, making them perfect for a completely isolated beach set-up.
Tip: When exploring the sands, look out for ambergris, or whale vomit, that has washed up and hardened in the wind and sunlight. Its faecal odour develops into a pleasant fragrance over time and it has been used for centuries in the creation of scents, spices and medicines, earning ambergris its nickname ‘floating gold’.
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BEST DIVING New Providence/Paradise Island
There are some excellent wreck sites around Nassau, while coral gardens and dozens of reefs are packed with life. The most popular site is Shark Wall, off New Providence’s southwest coast, as well as Rose Island, Gambier, Booby Rock and Goulding reefs.
Abacos
Lying close to the gulfstream, visibility in the waters off Elbow Cay is particularly good. Favourite sites are Mermaid Beach reef, while Pelican Cays is renowned for its caves and reefs with lots of marine life
Grand Bahama
The island is surrounded by reefs and wrecks, offering plenty of great dive sites. The Wall, Treasure Reef, Spit City, Ben’s Blue Hole and the Rose Garden are among the most popular.
Bimini
Black-coral gardens, blue holes, a pod of spotted dolphins and an unusual seafloor formation locals like to think is the Lost City of Atlantis are the main attractions. The wreck of the concrete ship, SS Sapona, lies here in three metres of water, half above the surface.
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Stocking Island, Exumas
Angelfish Blue Hole reaches a diving depth of 30m, where there is a chamber that you can swim through. Horse-eye jacks and large parrotfish are common here, as are schools of eagle rays and turtles. Mystery Cave is a system that runs under Stocking Island, linking to an inland blue hole. The entrance is a popular snorkelling spot where a variety of snapper, grunt, damselfish and Atlantic spadefish can be seen.
Andros
There are some 200 blue holes to explore, caverns, swim-throughs, walls and wrecks. Marine life includes green moray eels, Nassau grouper, Atlantic spadefish, reef sharks and lots of pelagics. Currents are medium to strong, but there are plenty of sheltered spots for less experienced divers.
Harbour Island
There are a number of wrecks here to be explored. ‘Train Wreck’ is a 19th century barge that sank carrying a steam locomotive, but the best known dive here is ‘Current Cut’. This is a fast moving underwater gully that sweeps divers along at up to 10 knots for several minutes. It’s a popular drift dive, good for snorkelling too, with turtles, rays and sharks in abundance.
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Long Island
The snorkelling is particularly good all around Long Island, while experienced divers can visit underwater cages to feed swarms of shortfin mako, bull, and reef sharks. Other top dive sites include the Arawak ‘green’ hole, which is a stunning and, seemingly, bottomless blue hole.
San Salvador
This is one of the top wall-diving destinations in The Bahamas, with many crevices and tunnels to explore. Coral and large sponges are found at the bottom, with lots of horse-eye jacks and sharks to be seen. One of the most popular spots is North Pole Cave, where hammerheads are often passing. Telephone Pole is another great site, good for spotting large stingrays, grouper, snapper, turtles and triggerfish. A huge purple gorgonian marks the northern edge of the dive, which has been featured in many dive publications.
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Important Information
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IMPORTANT INFORMATION - BALEARICS In order for us to assist you with your arrival in Spain, please note the following requirements: • Inform us with your ETA and the name of your previous port • Upon arrival, you must present an ARRIVAL NOTICE to the authorities, if your previous port is not in Spain • Should your previous port be in a NON-EU country, you must submit an ARRIVAL CLEARANCE For us to handle this on your behalf, please send us the following documentation:
Arrival notice:
• Certificate of Registration • Yacht Insurance Certificate • Crew & Guest List
Arrival/ departure clearance: • • • •
Certificate of Registration* Yacht Insurance Certificate* Crew & Guest List* Passports (all the crew and guests on board) • Seaman’s Discharge Books (if applicable) or SEAs/contracts
*2 copies stamped and signed by the Captain, to present to immigration authorities.
Cash declaration
Please note you must declare any cash on board above €100,000, or the equivalent in any other currency
Cash to master
If you require cash on board, you can transfer money to us by bank transfer and withdraw cash, using our CTM service. You must declare any cash transfer above €9,999. Should any non-EU crew disembark and leave the island -- temporarily or permanently, passports must be stamped by authorities on departure and upon return to the vessel. Non-EU crew must also supply booked flight details or evidence of booked accommodation.
Fishing licence
To fish in Balearic waters, a licence is required. To obtain a licence, we require the registry of the vessel and photocopy of the passport of the captain, as the licence pertains
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We craft your refit with care
REFIT & REPAIR SHIPYARD
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to the boat. For a spear fishing licence, a medical certificate approving this activity and passport copy must be submitted. Only EU-flagged boats are eligible for fishing licences.
Dive permits
Certain parts of Balearic waters are protected and a permit is required for scuba diving. Contact us for guidance prior to diving and to obtain your permits.
Personal watercraft
In the Balearics, it is compulsory for all users (crew or guests) of personal watercraft, such as jet skis, to have a licence. Failure to produce a licence, if inspected by the authorities, will result in a fine. One-day courses for obtaining a PWC licence can be arranged ON BOARD your yacht.
Navigation & anchorage It is prohibited to anchor in the commercial port area of Palma -- including in the bay, in front of the cathedral -- without prior authorisation. Without permission, the authorities will fine the boat. Contact us to arrange for permission to anchor, discharge waste and use the tender to come ashore for any reason. Port fees are payable in each instance. All vessels exceeding 500GT must have pilotage in Palma’s commercial port areas. Failure to do so can result in a significant fine. Anchoring in National Park and protected areas of the Balearic Islands requires prior authorisation.
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CABRERA NATIONAL PARK To book a buoy at Cabrera, you can apply up to 21 days in advance of the desired date. Buoys are limited and during peak times, are usually fully booked on the day of release. Contact us to check availability and to book your buoy. Max LOA at Cabrera is 35m, fees and taxes apply. The Balearic Islands’ Ministry of Agriculture, Environment and Regional Planning has a number of online resources and navigational tools to assist with anchorage in
protected areas. You can access these at bit.ly/anchorage-Estela We strongly advise captains to heed the guidance designed to protect the sea bed, in particular the posidonia seagrass. Fines for anchoring in prohibited areas can be eye-watering and the most egregious cases can even lead to a custodial sentence. Patrols are carried out by enforcement officers on the water, and remotely, by drone and satellite. Offenders are also named and shamed by the authorities on social media.
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CABRERA NATIONAL PARK
RULES & REGULATIONS
Cabrera may be freely enjoyed for the purpose of tourism and leisure, including the viewing of flora and fauna, personal photography in non-restricted areas and all activities that do not disrupt or alter the landscape, or natural values and cultures of the park. For any query regarding visiting Cabrera, please contact us.
Activities that require authorisation: • Professional photography or filming • Scuba diving • Sailing and anchoring • Any commercial activity from a fixed establishment • Tourist guiding
Prohibited activities:
• Disposal of waste. • Smoking, other than in the designated area. • Extraction or removal of any natural material.
• Removal or alteration of any archaeological object or element • Collection/capture of materials or organisms. • Planting or removal of plant and animal species. • Starting fires. • Anchoring/berthing outside of the authorised area. • Camping. • Hunting, trapping or shooting. • Fishing. • Walking outside of designated areas, paths and trails. • Diving in Apnea during the months of May and June.
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
We make the impossible possible!
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POSIDONIA ALERT;
WHERE CAN I DROP MY ANCHOR? Posidonia Oceanica is a seagrass species that is endemic to the Mediterranean sea. It forms underwater meadows that are a vital part of the marine ecosystem and is therefore protected under environmental legislation. Vessels are strictly forbidden from dropping anchor, or any part of the anchor chain, on the seagrass. Because superyachts are the preserve of the wealthy, the fines for anchoring on posidonia can be truly eye-watering, by any measure. To add insult to injury, yachts are also named and shamed by the authorities via social media. The ultimate sanction for the most egregious offenders can be a custodial sentence, so it is vital that you take the utmost care when anchoring. Each season, hundreds of boats are moved on by officers from Guardia Civil, while transgressions are tracked via AIS and fines can be issued retrospectively.
The good news is that fines and sanctions are entirely avoidable. As Balearic experts, ESTELA keep abreast of local rules and regulations, ensuring that our clients know to avoid anchoring in forbidden locations. As a first step, we strongly recommend that you install the official posidonia mobile app, which is designed to help you avoid the seagrass. Being an organism, the exact plant locations are variable, so the maps in the app are only as good as their latest manual update. It mustn’t be taken as gospel, in other words, but it is a worthwhile first step. If in any doubt about where, and where not, to anchor, contact us at palma@estelashipping.net or call +34 971 722 532 and we will assist you. Install the posidonia mobile app:
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Tailor-made transfer and tours
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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OBLIGATIONS ON CAPTAINS
FOR ENTRY AND DEPARTURE FROM MALLORCA ESTELA’s resident expert on Spanish immigration laws, Kristy Hollingsworth, provides an update on the latest rules and regulations for yachts entering or leaving Spanish ports.
Clearance
When a yacht arrives from outside the European Union, for example from Gibraltar, Morocco, Melilla or Monaco, all passports, Seaman’s Discharge Books and/or copies of crew members’ contracts, stamped and signed crew list, plus a copy of the yacht’s certificate of registration must be presented. The authorities will issue an authorisation letter of entry clearance into the EU. The same applies in reverse if Spain is the last EU port before departure from the Union. Once all documentation has been received and verified, the yacht is given clearance to exit EU waters.
Crew change
Any crew member who is signed on to a yacht as a seafarer (with Seaman’s Book or work contract) is permitted to leave the boat and move freely around the entire island without coming to Border Control in Mallorca. In ports around the rest of Europe, crew are restricted to a 10km radius from where the yacht is berthed.
Shore travel restrictions
i. If a crew member leaves the yacht and travels beyond the permitted radius, the relationship between seafarer and yacht is broken; in this event they are now merely a tourist. To avoid this, crew members need to present their passport, Seaman’s Book or contract, flight details, stamped crew list and copy of yacht’s registry to port authorities. ii. When a crew member joins a
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yacht, the same process applies; their passport will be stamped out of the EU, to reflect that they have embarked on the yacht. iii. Crew members are not permitted to go to eg. Barcelona, France or anywhere else, unless they have first signed off and ceased to be a seafarer. If a crew member wishes to leave Mallorca, they are required to present to Border Control and enter the EU formally. Even if a crew member holds an EU passport, they are still required to present to border police, for verification of their passport in the police database.
Consignatarios in immigration and clearance
‘Consignatarios’ (consignees), like Estela Shipping, are required to be used in all visa and transit visa applications, as these may only be requested by cosignatarios, regardless of the length of the yacht.
The most common costly mistake made in Palma If a non-EU crew member fails to visit Spanish border control upon arrival by sea to obtain an entry stamp from the authorities before disembarking from a yacht, they are illegal citizens in the country. In a passport check, they can be detained, returned home and refused entry into the EU for up to three years. Such a simple mistake
can prove costly and upsetting, so it is advisable to always check with a consignee to ensure you comply.
Liability for correct stamps
i. A passport is the responsibility of the crew member to whom it belongs. While the captain must inform crew of their obligations and ensure documentation is complete and up to date, responsibility for the requisite stamps remains with the crew member. ii. In the event that the captain omits to follow correct procedures, such as failing to advise Border Control when crew are embarking or disembarking, or failing to check crew passports to ensure they have the requisite stamps, they may be considered willfully negligent. Fines, or even a custodial sentence, can be issued if a captain intentionally fails to comply with their obligations.
Exceptions
Where a yacht arrives into an EU port from within Europe but from outside the Schengen Area — such as Monaco, Melilla, Gibraltar, United Kingdom, Ireland, Croatia, or Cyprus— they are required to obtain arrival clearance into the EU. Likewise,when they depart the Schengen Area for a nonSchengen jurisdiction.
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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Guests embarking/disembarking What is a Schengen airport a charter transit visa? i. When the yacht is cruising within the Schengen Area, there is no need to inform port authorities. ii. When the yacht departs the Schengen Area with guests on board, all guest passports must be presented to port authorities.
When a crew member’s contract expires
i. When a crew member’s contract runs out and they are no longer contracted on board, they must attend Border Control to enter Spain. They cease to be a seafarer and are now a tourist, requiring them to complete due process. ii. In the event that they are flying home at the end of their work contract, they must present a valid passport, Seaman’s Book, if applicable, and declare their intention, presenting a flight ticket and accommodation confirmation, if needed. iii. In the event that they intend to stay in the country, they must present applicable travel visas, hotel confirmations, evidence of sufficient funds, and proof of medical insurance. iv. If they are EU citizens, they must present their passport to certify that they can legally enter the EU.
A Schengen transit visa provides a limited number of ‘transit days’, enabling seafarers to get to the yacht from their home country, or vice versa. The visa provides a grace period from the time of departure —usually three days— to get to their destination, in either direction. Requirements to apply for a transit visa depend on the flag of the ship and the nationality of the seafarer. Seafarers from outside the Schengen Area and who are not covered by a valid Schengen tourist visa, are required to have a valid Schengen transit visa whenever they intend to: Join a vessel that is (or will be) in a Schengen port; Transfer from one vessel to another vessel which is (or will be) docked in a Schengen port; Disembark for any reason, including end of contract, sickness, repatriation, urgent family matters, holiday.
NOTES i. A transit visa does not allow for holiday travel through Europe and is valid for transit only. Anyone caught doing otherwise can be detained, returned home and denied entry into the EU for up to three years.
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ii. Tourist visas are valid for no longer than 90 days and are valid strictly for leisure travel in the EU. They do not permit the holder to work, or to seek work, on yachts or anywhere else within the EU. Anyone caught doing so can be detained, returned home and denied entry into the EU for up to three years.
If in doubt about visas, travel and work restrictions in Mallorca, Spain or elsewhere, contact us us on +34 971 722 532, or email palma@estelashipping.net
JET SKI/PWC NAVIGATION RULES In Spain, it is compulsory for all operators -- crew or guests -- of personal watercraft (PWC), such as jet skis, to have a licence. Failure to produce a licence, if inspected by the authorities, will result in a fine. One-day courses for obtaining a PWC licence can be arranged ON BOARD your yacht, or at a recognised sea school. Drivers must be over 18 years of age, or 16 with permission from a parent or guardian. Anyone can be a passenger on a personal watercraft. The PWC must be registered with a maritime authority, or T/T mother vessel, and have public liability insurance.
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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• Keep a safe distance from swim zones (normally marked with yellow buoys). Where there are no marker buoys, keep 200m from the beach, or at least 50 metres from the rest of the shore, and 100m from other vessels. • Within these distances, maximum permitted speed is 5 knots. • Do not use private PWCs near public PWC rental areas or near regattas. • Approaching the shore through unmarked swim zones, keep speed below 3 knots and follow the most direct path to the shore.
• No beach drop-offs/pick-ups • Only use PWC in daylight hours, in good weather and visibility. • Towing of inflatables or water toys is prohibited. • It is forbidden to circulate in commercial ports/marinas, except to exit to, or enter from, open sea, at a maximum speed of 3 knots. • Mobile phone or VHF must be carried. • Water skiing or wakeboarding are permitted only if a passenger is sitting facing the person being towed.
BOOK YOUR BERTH IN MALLORCA Mallorca is busy year-round and it is advisable to get your bookings in as early as possible.
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Palma Bay, marinas on VHF Ch9 1. STP (Servicios Técnicos Portuarios) Muelle Viejo, Palma 39°33’50”N - 2°38’23”E MAX LENGTH:120M DEPTH: 7.5M BERTHS: 53
6. MARINA PORT DE MALLORCA Avenida Gabriel Roca, s/n, Palma 39°33’49”N - 2°37’48”E MAX LENGTH: 50M DEPTH: 7M BERTHS: 200
2. MARINA MOLL VELL C/ Moll 8, Palma 39°33’59”N - 2°38’33”E MAX LENGTH: 42M DEPTH: 5M BERTHS: 25
7. PANTALAN DEL MEDITERRANEO Avenida Gabriel Roca, s/n, Palma 39°33’42”N - 2°37’48”E MAX LENGTH: 128M DEPTH: 7M BERTHS: 61
3. ASTILLEROS DE MALLORCA Contramuelle Mollet 11, Palma 39°33’59”N - 2°38’22”E MAX LENGTH: 120M DEPTH: 7.5M BERTHS: 53
8. MARINA CUARENTENA Avenida Gabriel Roca, s/n, Palma 39°33’40”N - 2°37’44”E MAX LENGTH: 60M DEPTH: 7M BERTHS: 70
4. MARINA NAVIERA BALEAR Avenida de Gabriel Roca 4, Palma 39º 33’30’’N / 2º 38’00’’E MAX LENGTH: 30M MAX DRAUGHT: 4M BERTHS: 60 VHF Ch.8
9. CLUB DE MAR Muelle Pelaires, s/n, Palma 39°33’22”N - 2°37’45”E MAX LENGTH: 350M DEPTH: 10M BERTHS: 575
V5. REAL CLUB NAUTICO Muelle de Sant Pere, 1, Palma 39°33’52”N - 2°38’2”E MAX LENGTH: 35M DEPTH: 4M BERTHS: 971 Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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MARINAS AROUND MALLORCA
A. PORT CALANOVA Avenida de Joan Miró, 327 39°54’N - 2°59E MAX LENGTH: 25M DEPTH: 7M BERTHS: 172 VHF Channel 9 B. PUERTO PORTALS Portals Nous, Calvià 39°32”N - 2°35”E MAX LENGTH: 60M DEPTH: 4M BERTHS: 639
C. PORT ADRIANO Urbanización el Toro Calvià 39°29’21”N - 2°28’40”E MAX LENGTH: 80M DEPTH: 7M BERTHS: 480 D. CLUB DE VELA, PUERTO DE ANDRATX Av. Gabriel Roca 27, Puerto de Andratx 39°32’41.2”N - 2°23’05”E MAX LENGTH: 60M BERTHS: 222
301
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
302
E. PUERTO DE SÓLLER C/ Moll Comercial, Puerto de Sóller 39°47’41.7”N - 2°41’21.3”E MAX LENGTH: 60M BERTHS: 465
F. PUERTO DE ALCUDIA Paseo Marítimo, 1, Alcudia 39°49’58.1”N - 3°08’20.3”E MAX LENGTH: 30M DEPTH: 4M BERTHS: 744
TAXI NUMBERS IN MALLORCA Palma ................ +34 971 201 212 / +34 971 400 004 / +34 971 283 378 Alcudia.............. +34 971 549 870 Andratx............. +34 971 136 398 Binissalem ....... +34 626 963 904 Calviá/Portals . +34 971 134 700 Deiá ................... +34 619 096 275 El Toro/Adriano +34 651 178 961
Fornalutx ..... +34 971 638 484 Marratxí ....... +34 971 795 000 Muro ............. +34 971 860 402 Pollença........ +34 620 339 960 / +34 606 404 894 Santanyí ....... +34 971 653 377 Sóller ............ +34 971 638 484
Online, download the Spain-wide app, ‘1Taxi’, here: www.1taxi.es/’
MEDICAL SUPPORT
Balearic Pharmacy Finder bit.ly/BalearicPharmacyFinder
Balearic Hospital Directory bit.ly/BalearicsHospitals
NATIONAL EMERGENCY:
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HOSPITALS - MALLORCA HOSPITAL UNIVERSITARIO SON ESPASES C/ Valldemossa 79, Palma +34 871 205 000
JUANEDA HOSPITALES +34 971 28 00 00 juaneda.es
HOSPITAL QUIRÓNSALUD PALMAPLANAS (Private) C/ dels Reis 08, Palma (Ma-20 Exit 5B) +34 971 918 00
303
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
304
CO MPLE TE MEDIC A L K IT PR EPA R ATION
CHECK ING A N D U PDATING
E X PIR ED PRO DUC T S CONTROL
ON - BOA R D SER V I CE
R EC YCLING Pza. Progrés, 1 (Santa Catalina) Palma de Mallorca, Spain +34 971 733 021 / +34 673 246 107 naval@farmaciaprogres.com www.botiquines.farmaciaprogres.com
CUS TO MER SER V I CE
PHARMACIES FARMACIA PROGRÉS On-board service, marine first aid kits, marina delivery naval@farmaciaprogres.com
Open 09:00 - 21:00h +34 673 246 107 (mobile/WhatsApp) +34 971 733 021
EMERGENCY DEPARTMENTS Medisub Decompression Chamber
Police............... 091 Civil Guard...... 062 Fire.................. 080 Medical........... 061 Coast Guard VHF 16, +34 900 202 202 Pilots VHF 14/16, +34 610 717 876
+34 666 444 999 / +34 971 73 16 47 Local Civil Guard Palma 971 774 100 Alcúdia 971 546 908 Local Police Palma 971 281 600 Balearics-wide 092
Mediterranean Coastal Radio +34 900 507 607 Meteorological information +34 906 365 307
305 Hrs
DOCTOR + 34 971 22 22 22
Multilingual medical staff
Doctor visits in your hotel
Medical ambulance service
Juaneda Hospitales. Close to you.
juaneda.es
assistance? us 00 at appointment Need with your doctor Contact 971 28 00 estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
Clínica Juaneda · Juaneda Miramar · Juaneda Muro · Juaneda Menorca · Juaneda Mahón
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RESTAURANTS IN MALLORCA ESTELA’S BIG LIST Below is a listing of restaurants or venues we recommend, ranging from ‘Michelin’ fine dining to hip eateries and gluten-free cafés, to the most rustic spots with perhaps a stunning view. For a specific recommendation for your guests, just ask us at palma@estelashipping.net or call +34 696 59 84 03.
PALMA Fine Dining Fera
+34 971 59 53 01
ferapalma.com
Marc Fosh
+34 971 72 01 14
marcfosh.com
Adrián Quetglas
+34 971 78 11 19
adrianquetglas.es
Forn de Sant Joan
+34 971 728 422
forndesantjoan.com
DINS Santi Taura
+34 656 738 214
dinssantitaura.com
Quadrat
+34 971 49 50 00
hotelsantfrancesc.com
Sumaq
+34 696 526 758
restaurantesumaq.com
La Bodeguilla
+34 971 718 274
la-bodeguilla.com
De Tokio a Lima
+34 871 592 002
detokioalima.com
Rosa del Mar
+34 690 837 947
rosadelmarrestaurante.com
Aromata
+34 971 49 58 33
aromatarestaurant.com
Zaranda
+34 680 60 25 80
zaranda.es
Mercat 1930 (food hall)
+34 654 61 33 28
mercat1930.net
Tast Club (Spanish/tapas)
+34 971 71 01 50
tast.com
Casa Maruka (rustic)
+34 654 613 539
restaurantecasamaruka.com
The Merchants (grill)
+34 871 52 02 89
merchantspalma.com
Tapas/grill/local food
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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Sadrassana (creative) El Camino (tapas)
+34 971 728 515
sadrassana.com
Bookings o nline onlyelcaminopalma.es
Duke (surf-style fusion)
+34 971 07 17 38
dukepalma.com
Clandestí (hip show-cooking)
+34 663 90 90 53
clandesti.es
Stagier Bar (gastro-tapas)
+34 871 04 19 70
stagierbar.com
Arume (best sushi)
+34 971 21 41 21
tomeumarti.com
La Vieja (Canarian tapas)
+34 871 531 731
lavieja.net
Isaan Thai Cuisine (Thai)
+34 971 158 679
isaanthaicuisine.com
Botànic (clean eating)
+34 971 750 550
eatbotanic.com
Vandal (Latin/Asian fusion)
+34 871 04 51 74
vandalpalma.com
Ombu (fusion/tapas)
+34 971 21 43 87
ombupalma.com
Ca’n Toni (rustic local)
+34 871 71 66 61
cafecantoni.com
El Txoko de Martín (Med/tapas)
+34 871 00 40 80
eltxokodemartin.com
Ca’n Eduardo
+34 971 72 11 82
caneduardo.com
Bahia Mediterraneo
+34 971 457 653
bahiamediterraneo.com
Mar de Nudos
+34 971 21 47 22
mardenudos.com
Sa Cranca (paella)
+34 971 73 74 47
sacranca.com
Schwaiger Xino’s (Med, odd location, great views)
+34 971 66 68 19
schwaiger.es
Lume & Co (finca grill)
+34 971 104 295
lumerestaurante.com
Izizi Nunnak (cool bar/eatery)
+34 871 23 24 32
izizinunnak.com
Portixol Hotel (Med fusion)
+34 971 27 18 00
portixol.com
La Fortaleza, Cap Rocat (tender accessible)
+34 971 74 78 78
caprocat.com
Es Fum (modern, creative, tender accessible)
+34 971 629 629
restaurant-esfum.com
Palma Marina Views
Palma Outskirts
309
AROUND THE ISLAND
Scan the qr code or click here for the interactive online map
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
310
Around the island Puerto Portals Arrels (modern Mallorcan)
+34 971 40 25 11
restaurantearrels.com
Ritzi (Italian, in the marina)
+34 971 68 41 04
ritzigroup.com/ritziportals
Tahini (Japanese)
+34 971 676 025
tahinisushibar.com
Baiben (paella/Med)
+34 971 67 55 47
baibenrestaurants.com
+34 871 87 12 71
verico-portandratx.com
Port d’Andratx Verico (Italian)
WEST - with a view Ca’s Patro March (Local; ramshackle lunch by the water, via tender, cash only)
+34 971 63 91 37 caspatromarch.myrestoo.net +34 722 54 89 72
Sa Foradada (cliffside paella, via tender, cash only)
+34 616 08 74 99
restaurantesaforadada.com
Es Verger (Local; very rustic, up a mountain, cash only)
+34 971 18 21 26
facebook.com/EsVergerAlaro
Café Miró (Med; terrace w/ valley views)
+34 971 63 90 11
belmond.com
Hoposa Costa D’Or (Med; terrace overlooking Cala Deià
+34 971 639 025
hoposa.es/hotels/costa-dor
Nama (Asian; terrace w/ valley views
+34 971 636 102
restaurantnama.com/
Son Tomás (Med; rustic)
+34 971 61 81 49
facebook.com/restbarsontomas. banyalbufar
Oleum (modern local)
+34 971 14 70 00
sonnet.es
El Olivo (creative)
+34 971 63 90 11
belmond.com
Sa Clastra (creative local)
+34 971 13 86 27
castellsonclaret.com/es/sa-clastra
Es Raco des Teix (Med)
+34 971 63 95 01
esracodesteix.es
Bens D’Avall (creative)
+34 971 63 23 81
bensdavall.com
Sebastian (Med/fusion)
+34 971 639 417
restaurantesebastian.com
WEST
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Es Taller Valldemossa (creative tapas)
+34 971 616 396
estallervalldemossa.com
Ca’n Boqueta (Mallorcan)
+34 971 638 398
canboqueta.com
es Fanals (creative tapas, bay views
+34 971 63 78 86
jumeirah.com/es/stay/mallorca
Agapanto Flor del Amor (bayside creative tapas)
+34 971 63 38 60
agapanto.com
Re Organic (0km creative organic café)
+34 971 638 992
reorganic.es/soller-restaurant
Es Canyis (bayside paella, seafood)
+34 971 631 406
escanyis.es
Ca Na Toneta (0km)
+34 971 51 52 26
canatoneta.com
Miceli (creative local)
+34 971 87 37 84
miceli.es
Brut (0km, tasting menu only)
+34 971 188 231
brutrestaurante.com
Maca de Castro (creative tasting menu only)
+34 971 89 23 91
macadecastro.com
365 (creative, veg tasting menu)
+34 971 53 53 53
sonbrull.com/gastronomia/ restaurant-365
Daica (creative tasting menu)
+34 686 00 16 04
dacia.es
La Bufala (rustic Italian/ pizza by the metre)
+34 971 87 94 54
labufala.es
Port de sóller/sóller
NORTH
Port de Pollenca/Pollenca Bellaverde (vegan/vegetarian)
+34 +34 675 602 528 restaurantbellaverde.wixsite.com
Terrae (creative 0km/vegetarian)
+34 620 70 72 52
terraerestaurant.com
Celler la Parra (paella/ tapas since 1962)
+34 971 86 50 41
cellerlaparra.com
La Trencadora (rustic Italo-Med, in Pollenca)
+34 971 53 15 99
trencadora.com
+34 971 184 118
ponderosabeach.com
Port d’Alcudia ponderosa Beach (paella/rustic; beach dining
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
312
The Wine Side (rustic gastrobar, Med/seafood)
+34 971 09 20 19
thewineside.es
Bistro del Jardin (Med bistro)
+34 971 89 31 26
bistrodeljardin.com
Fusion 19 (Med/Asian fusion)
+34 971 89 42 59
fusion19.com
VORO (very creative)
+34 646 896 826
vororestaurant.com
Can Simoneta (Mex/Mallorcan fusion)
+34 971 81 61 10
cansimonetarestaurante.com
Sa Pleta by Marc Fosh (Med open-fire)
+34 871 51 53 40
pletademar.com
Andreu Genestra (modern Mallorcan)
+34 971 56 59 10
andreugenestra.com
Retroway (0km, 0 gluten)
+34 689 08 36 41
facebook.com/retrowaymallorca
Laudat (creative)
+34 871 90 60 34
restaurantlaudat.com
Kairiku (Japanese ‘omakase’)
+34 871 51 53 45
kairiku.es
Tess de Mar (0km, creative)
+34 871 515 345
tessdemar.com
Port Petit (Med/French)
+34 971 64 30 39
portpetit.com
Sa Llotja (Med/Asturian)
+34 971 82 51 65
restaurantsallotjaportocolom.com
EAST
SOUTH
313
AROUND THE ISLAND Beach Club sin Mallorca
Scan the QR code or click here for the interactive online map
Beach Clubs UM Chambao, Portals
+34 971 666 475
umbeachhouse.com
Nikki Beach, Magaluf
+34 971 123 962
mallorca.nikkibeach.com
Purobeach, Illetas
+34 971 70 32 35
purobeach.com
Balneario, Illetas
+34 971 401 031
balnearioilletas.com
Bardot at Gran Meliá De Mar, Illetas
+34 912 76 47 47
bit.ly/BardotMelia
Beach Club Gran Folies, Pt Andratx
+34 971 67 10 94
beachclubgranfolies.com
Royal Beach Gastrosenses, Muro
+34 871 70 71 27
theroyalbeach.com
Mhares Sea Club, Puig de Ros
+34 871 03 80 18
mharesseaclub.com
Purobeach Palma, Can Pastilla
+34 971 744 744
purobeach.com
Zhero Beach Club, Cala Nova
+34 971 40 43 10
zherobeachclub.com
Oceans Beach Club, Magaluf
hi@oceans-grp.com
Shiva Beach Club
+34 971 87 58 88
oceans-beach-club.com shivabeachclub.com
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
314
BALEARIC ISLANDS - MARINAS IBIZA MARINA IBIZA 38°54’55.08”N 1°26’38.18”E MAX LENGTH: 60M DEPTH: 6M BERTHS: 380
MARINA BOTAFOCH 38°91’12.04”N 1°44’88.06”E MAX LENGTH: 30M DEPTH: 7M BERTHS: 430
IBIZA MAGNA 38°54’38.59”N 1°26’12.26”E MAX LENGTH: 60M DEPTH: 7M BERTHS: 85
SOVREN MARINA 38°54.6’N - 1°26.5’ E MAX LENGTH: 185M DEPTH: 9M BERTHS: 16
CLUB ES NAUTIC 38°58.5595’N - 1°18.0767’E MAX LENGTH: 50M DEPTH: 5M BERTHS: 578
MENORCA MARINA CLUB NÁUTICO DE CIUTADELLA 39°59,7’ - E 3°49,4’ N MAX LENGTH: 25M DEPTH: 3M BERTHS: 130 MARINA MENORCA (MAHON) 39º 52’ ‘’N - 4º 18’ ‘’E MAX LENGTH: 28M DEPTH: 6M BERTHS: 230
MARINA MAHON 39.889313N - 4.276344E MAX LENGTH: 50M DEPTH: 6M BERTHS: 165 PUERTO ADDAYA 40.007413N, 4.198362E MAX LENGTH: 25M DEPTH: 3M BERTHS: 150
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TAXI NUMBERS for IBIZA, FORMENTERA, MENORCA IBIZA Ibiza Airport..........................+34 971 800 080 Taxis Ibiza.............................+34 971 398 483 Taxis San Jose.......................+34 971 800 080 Taxis Santa Eulalia...............+34 971 333 333 Taxis San Antonio................+34 971 343 764 Online, download the Spain-wide app, ‘1Taxi’, here: www.1taxi.es/’ FORMENTERA Radio Taxi............. +34 971 322 342 San Francisco ...... +34 971 32 20 16 La Savina............... +34 971 32 20 02 Es Pujols................ +34 971 32 80 16 Water Taxi............ +34 609 84 71 16
MENORCA Radio taxi.......... +34 971 157 000 Taxi Móvil Ciutadella +34 971 482 222
MEDICAL SUPPORT Balearic Pharmacy Finder bit.ly/BalearicPharmacyFinder
Balearic Hospital Directory bit.ly/BalearicsHospitals
NATIONAL EMERGENCY:
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EMERGENCY DEPARTMENTS Police......................091 Decompression Chamber Civil Guard.............062 Clínica Nuestra Señora del Rosario Fire.........................080 +34 971 30 23 54 Medical..................061 Coast Guard .........VHF 16, +34 900 202 202 Pilots..................... VHF 14/16, +34 610 717 876 Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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LOCAL CIVIL GUARD Ibiza...................... 971 301 100 Formentera......... 971 322 022 Menorca............... 971 363 297 LOCAL POLICE Balearics-wide
092
Mediterranean Coastal Radio +34 900 507 607 Meteorological information +34 906 365 307
MAINLAND SPAIN - MARINAS IGY MALAGA MARINA 36.716069N - 4.414715E MAX LENGTH: 180M+ T: +34 699 989 631 E: malaga@igymarinas.com
MARINA DE DENIA 38.841808N - 0.121079E MAX LENGTH: 60M T: 966 424 307 E: mar@marinadedenia.com
BARCELONA MARINA VELA 41.21489N - 2.11128E MAX LENGTH: 105M T: +34 931 166 616 E: info@marinavela.com
ALICANTE 38.339568N - 0.480428E MAX LENGTH: 60M T: +34 965 213 600 E: recepcion@marinaalicante.com
PORT TARRACO 41.109082N - 1.249324E MAX LENGTH: 160M T: +34 977 244 173 E: info@porttarraco.com
PUERTO BANUS 36.485892N - 4.955270E MAX LENGTH: 50M T: +34 952 909 800 E: clientes@puertojosebanus.com
YACHT PORT CARTAGENA 37.3544N - 0.979544E MAX LENGTH: 140M T: +34 968 121 213 E: marina@yachtportcartagena.com
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COSTA BRAVA - MARINAS <25 Metres
CNBC PALAMÓS
PORT D’ARO
EMPURIABRAVA MARINA
SELVA
41.84478N - 3.12627E MAX LENGTH: 25M T: +34 972 31 43 24 E: cncb@cncostabrava.com 42.1469N - 3.0817E MAX LENGTH: 25M T: +34 972 451 239 E: empuriaport@empuriaport.com
41.8049N - 3.05604E MAX LENGTH: 25M T: +34 972 81 89 29 E: info@clubnauticportdaro.cat 42.20281N - 3.12051E MAX LENGTH: 25M T: +34 972 38 70 00 E: nautic@cnps.cat
PORT LA CLOTA
42.07N - 3.086E MAX LENGTH: 25M T: +34 972 770 016 E: club@nauticescala.com
<30 Metres MARINA PALAMÓS 41.504N - 3.081E MAX LENGTH: 30M T: +34 972 601 000
<45 Metres L’ESTARTIT
42.0544N - 3.2041E MAX LENGTH: 45M T: +34 972 751 402 E: info@cnestartit.com
ROSES
42.15247N - 3.10588E MAX LENGTH: 45M T: +34 972 154 412 M: +34 609 020 450 E: info@portroses.com
<80 Metres SANT FELIU DE GUÍXOLS 41.4630N - 3.0154E MAX LENGTH: 80M T: +34 972 321 700 E: info@cnsfg.cat
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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IMPORTANT INFORMATION
ALBORAN SEA
ALBORAN SEA - MARINAS Port of Melilla (Spain) 35.280322N -2.925603W MAX LENGTH: 160M Puerto Noray, Melilla (Spain) 35.288177N -2.935022W MAX LENGTH: 24M Hercules Marina, Ceuta (Spain) 35.5321N - 5.1858W MAX LENGTH: 24M
Cas de Ceuta Nautical Club, Ceuta (Spain) 35.530N - 5.180W MAX LENGTH: 30M Alcaidesa Marina, La Linea, Gibraltar (Spain) 36.0931N - 5.2203W MAX LENGTH: 90M NATIONAL EMERGENCY:
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MELILLA & CEUTA EMERGENCY DEPARTMENTS Police...................... 091 Civil Guard............. 062 Fire......................... 080 Medical.................. 061 Maritime................ +34 900 123 505
GIBRALTAR Medical..................190 Fire.........................190 Police......................199 Hospital and A&E +350 200 071 13
Taxi Melilla +34 952 683 621 / +34 952 683 623 Taxi Ceuta +34 956 515 406
ALL EMERGENCIES:
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Fire and Ambulance non-emergency calls +350 200 795 07 Pharmacies call centre +350 200 797 00
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IMPORTANT INFORMATION
LANZAROTE & CANARY ISLANDS PROTECTED AREAS An anchoring permit is required if wishing to visit the national marine park ‘Parque Natural del Archipiélago Chinijo’ off La Graciosa. Spearfishing and fishing with diving equipment in the nature reserves or protected underwater parks is forbidden, as is the taking of coral or other marine life in these areas.
Diving is only permitted with an authorised diving establishment and participants must have a diving qualification, insurance, and a Spanish dive licence. This latter requires a passport, a medical examination, and a dive logbook.
CANARY ISLANDS - MARINAS MARINA PUERTO CALERO, LANZAROTE 28 54,922N 13 42,417WMAX LENGTH: 80M T: +34 928 511285 E: info@caleromarinas.com MARINA LANZAROTE, ARRECIFE, LANZAROTE 28.966226N -13.533020W MAX LENGTH: 60M T: +34 928 66 32 63 E: info@caleromarinas.com PUERTO DEL CARMEN MARINA, LANZAROTE 28.5526N - 13.4045W
MAX LENGTH: 80M T: +34 34 928 511 285 / +34 646 479 250 E: info@caleromarinas.com MARINA RUBICÓN, PLAYA BLANCA, LANZAROTE 28.857779N, - 13.814415W MAX LENGTH: 50M T: +34 928 519 012 E: info@marinarubicon.com MORRO JABLE MARINA, FUERTEVENTURA 28° 03’02”N - 14° 21’56”W MAX LENGTH: 35M
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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PUERTOS CANARIOS, GRAN TARAJAL, FUERTEVENTURA 28.206699N - 14.028607W MAX LENGTH: 100M
CLUB NÁUTICO PUERTO COLÓN DE ADEJE, TENERIFE 28.079234N -16.735687W MAX LENGTH: 24
PUERTO DE MOGÁN, GRAN CANARIA 27.816739N - 15.762888W MAX LENGTH: 45M
PUERTO DEPORTIVO DE PLAYA DE SANTIAGO, LA GOMERA 28.026727N - 17.194605W MAX LENGTH: 60M
PUERTO DEPORTIVO DE PUERTO RICO, GRAN CANARIA 27.782680N - 15.715213W MAX LENGTH: 45M PUERTO DEPORTIVO PASITO BLANCO, GRAN CANARIA 27.746651N - 15.623021W MAX LENGTH: 40M PUERTO DE TALIARTE, GRAN CANARIA 27.989906N - 15.367660W MAX LENGTH: 60M LAS PALMAS MARINA, GRAN CANARIA 28°07’40.2”N - 15°25’27.7”W MAX LENGTH: 45M CLUB NÁUTICO PUERTITO DE GÜÍMAR, TENERIFE 28.287665N -16.379692W MAX LENGTH: 60M MARINA SAN MIGUEL, TENERIFE 28.019180N - 16.612776W MAX LENGTH: 40M
PUERTO DE VUELTAS, VALLE GRAN REY, LA GOMERA 28.081951N - 17.331437W MAX LENGTH: 60M MARINA LA PALMA, SANTA CRUZ, LA PALMA 28.679761N - 17.766386W MAX LENGTH: 25M PUERTO TAZACORTE MARINA, LA PALMA 28.645120N - 17.943742W MAX LENGTH: 30M PUERTO DE LA ESTACA, EL HIERRO 27.785160N - 17.901935W MAX LENGTH: 30M PUERTO DE LA RESTINGA, EL HIERRO 27.639881N - 17.980561W MAX LENGTH: 30M
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CANARY ISLANDS Canaries Health Service.....012 Civil guard............................062 National Police....................091 Local Police..........................092 Ambulance...........................061 Fire Department..................080
NATIONAL EMERGENCY:
Emergency at sea +34 90 020 2202
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Number for accidents, theft etc +34 90 210 2112
Canary Islands Pharmacy Finder bit.ly/CanariesPharmacyFinder-Estela (turn off auto-translate in browser) HOSPITALS, CANARY ISLANDS HEALTH SERVICE Lanzarote British Surgery of Lanzarote ........................ +34 928 514 274 Hospital Doctor José Molina Orosa................... +34 928 807 050 Fuerteventura General Hospital of Fuerteventura.................. +34 928 862 000 Gran Canaria Doctor Negrín University Hospital.................. +34 928 450 000 CHU Insular - Maternal Child............................ +34 928 444 000 Tenerife University Hospital of Canary Islands +34 922 678 000 Our Lady of Candelaria University Hospital +34 922 602 000 Pharmacy Las Américas........................................................ +34 922 79 44 28 Los Cristianos....................................................... +34 922 79 08 47 Puerto la Cruz...................................................... +34 922 37 06 55 La Gomera Our Lady of Guadalupe Hospital..........+34 922 140 200 La Palma General Hospital of La Palma ..............+34 922 185 000 El Hierro Hospital Nuestra Señora de los Reyes +34 922 553 500
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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IMPORTANT INFORMATION
THE BAHAMAS
Bahamas arrival formalities
To enter The Islands Of The Bahamas, private vessels need the following:
a) One copy of
c) Proof of Citizenship—Passport
b)
d) Vessel registration documents
Customs Clearance Form:
One Immigration Card per person:
Arrival Declaration - can be done online, at www.besw.gov.bs/ TFBSEW/cusLogin/ signin.cl
(Vessel title / proof of ownership)
Instructions for completion are here:
For Travel Health Visa information, consult: https://travel.gov.bs For updated Safety and Security information for The Bahamas and Caribbean region, see https://safetyandsecuritynet.org
Bahamas Boating Regulations A cruising permit is required for all foreign, private, non-commercial pleasure boats (and occupants) to sail in Bahamian waters.
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Entering Policies
Exiting Policies
All visiting boaters must clear Customs and Immigration at the nearest designated Port of Entry. As you enter each port, fly the yellow quarantine flag and notify Customs of your arrival. Only the captain is permitted to leave the boat until your vessel has been cleared.
Before leaving The Islands Of The Bahamas, be sure to surrender your copy of the Immigration Card (filled out upon first arrival) at the last Bahamian port you visit.
Customs and Immigration officials will come to your vessel. Everyone on board must have proof of citizenship. US citizens must present a passport. Upon your arrival in The Bahamas, you will be asked to fill out an Immigration Arrival/Departure Card, which you will keep until your departure.
When a private vessel arrives at a port of call in the US, the Captain must report their arrival immediately upon first landfall to US Customs and Border Protection (CBP) by calling the following toll free number or visiting the following website: +1-800-432-1216 www.cbp.gov
When you call for clearance, have the following information available: 1) Vessel name and registration/document number 2) Vessel owner name and citizenship 3) Vessel commander/master name, date of birth and citizenship 4) Passengers’ names and dates of birth 5) Foreign ports or places visited and duration of stay 6) Total value of all acquisitions and purchases made
Entry Fees. All yachts entering The Bahamas are required to pay an entry fee. Fishing and permits, see here:
Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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Quality fuel, wherever you need it
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Official Ports of Entry THE ABACOS Marsh Harbour Baker’s Bay Marina, Guana Cay (Private for members only) Cherokee Air Conch Inn Marina Great Abaco Beach Resort Marina Jib Room Marina Mangoes Marina Leonard M Thompson International Airport Marsha Harbour Public Dock
Sandy Point Sandy Point Airport (Upon Request) Sandy Point Public Dock (Upon Request) Spanish Cay Spanish Cay Airport (Private must pre-arranged) Spanish Cay Marina
Green Turtle Cay Green Turtle Public Dock
Treasure Cay Treasure Cay Airport Treasure Cay Public Dock Treasure Cay Marina
ANDROS Fresh Creek Fresh Creek Airport Fresh Creek Public Dock
San Andros San Andros Airport San Andros Public Dock
Congo Town Congo Town Airport BIMINI/CAT CAY Big Game Marina Bimini Public Dock Bimini Sands Marina Blue Waters Marina Brown’s Marina
Resort World Sea Plane Base Resorts World Marina Sea Crest Marina South Bimini Airport Weech’s Dock
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THE BERRY ISLANDS Chub Cay Chub Cay Airport Chub Cay Club Marina CAT ISLAND Arthur’s Town Public Dock (Upon Request) Bennett’s Harbour Public Dock (Upon Request, $100 charge)
Great Harbour Cay Bullock’s Harbour Public Dock Great Harbour Cay Airport Great Harbour Cay Marina New Bight Airport Smith’s Bay Public Dock (Upon Request)
ELEUTHERA & HARBOUR ISLAND Harbour Island Harbour Island Public Dock Harbour Island Marina Romora Bay Marina Valentines Marina
Governor’s Harbour French Leave Eleuthera Marina Governor’s Harbour International Airport Governor’s Harbour Public Dock
Spanish Wells R&B Boat yard Spanish Wells Public Dock Spanish Wells Yacht Haven Marina
Rock Sound Cape Eleuthera Marina Davis Harbor Marina Rock Sound Airport
North Eleuthera North Eleuthera Airport White Crown Aviation THE EXUMAS Great Guana Cay Black Point (Upon Request) Black Point Airport Black Point Public Dock Government Dock at Black Point Great Exuma Exuma International Airport
Exuma Public Dock Emerald Bay Marina Exuma Yacht Club Marina Staniel Cay Staniel Cay Airport (Upon Request) Staniel Cay Dock (Upon Request)
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GRAND BAHAMA ISLAND Freeport Bradford Marine Freeport Container Port Freeport Harbour Grand Bahama International Airport Grand Bahama Yacht Club Lucayan Marina Village, Next to Port Lucaya Lucayan Yacht Club Running Mon Sunrise Resort & Marina, A Knowles Marine & Boat Yard Ocean Reef Marina (Upon advanced request) Port Lucaya Marina Port Lucaya Marina Village Xanadu Marina East End South Riding Point West End NEW PROVIDENCE Nassau Albany Marina Arawak Container Port Bayshore Marina Brown’s Boat Basin East Bay Yacht Basin (Closed) Harbour Central Marina John Alfred Dock Kelly’s Dock Lynden Pindling International Airport Lyford Cay Marina Marlin and Bayshore Marina (Sometimes take in transit yachts) Nassau Harbour Club Nassau Yacht Haven
Blue Marlin Cove Marina Old Bahama Bay Marina West End Airport (Restricted) Inagua Inagua Airport Inagua Public Dock Long Island Clarence Town Public Dock (Upon Request) Deadman’s Cay Airport (Domestic Flights Only) Flying Fish Marina at Clarence Town (Upon Request) Salt Pond Public Dock (Upon Request) Simms Public Dock (Upon Request) Stella Maris Airport Stella Maris Marina Palm Cay Marina Prince George Dock Rubis Harbour View Marina Seaboard Marine Southwest Bay Dolphins TPA Marina Paradise Island Atlantis and Hurricane Hole Marina San Salvador Riding Rock Marina San Salvador Airport San Salvador Public Dock
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BAHAMAS - MARINAS For a list of all leisure marinas in The Bahamas, with contact details and information about capacity and facilities, please see this list: Search & Rescue (BASRA): +1 242 325 8864 Ch16
NATIONAL EMERGENCY: 911 or 919
Police Contacts, here:
Medical Facilities : The level of available medical assistance and facilities varies. While there are hospitals and clinics on the major islands, medical facilities are limited or even non-existent on smaller islands.
Nassau: Doctor’s Hospital (242) 302-4600 www.doctorshosp.com info@doctorshosp.com Lyford Cay Hospital (242) 362-4400 (242) 3620-4493 lyfordcayhospital@gmail.com Walk-In Medical Clinic (242) 328-0783 Collins@walkinclinicbahamas.com Princess Margaret Hospital (242) 322-2861/2 Accident and Emergency: (242) 326-7014
Ambulance Department: (242) 322-2221 www.phabahamas.org Harbour Bay Medical Centre (242) 393-5952/3 Rand Memorial Hospital (242) 352-2690 Accident and Emergency: (242) 326-7014 Ambulance Department: (242) 322-2221 randhospital@gbhs.phabahamas.org Air Ambulance: AAS Life Flight 242 377-1606 / 242 323-2186 (after hours) www.aaslifeflight.com aaslifeflight@gmail.com
Just the service you need
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THE ‘SEAMAN’S BOOK’: SHOULD YOU GET ONE?
Most crew members will be familiar with the blue book that many yachting professionals carry alongside their passports, but not everyone has one. COVID complicated travel considerably, spurring many yacht crew on to obtain one. So, if you haven’t already, should you get one and why? Let’s explore what a Seaman’s Book is and what its benefits are.
What is it?
The Seafarer’s Identity Document (SID) is known by several names: Seaman’s Discharge Book; Seafarer’s Identification and Record Book; Seaman’s Service Record/Book; Seafarer’s Card. It’s a record of career certification and experience and is essential for crew working on commercial and merchant vessels. It can be a requirement of owners/ managers of larger yachts.
Can you travel with it?
The SID is a quasi-legal document that supplements your passport and visas. It does not replace the passport and cannot be used to enter another country if arriving by air or overland. It does, however, identify you as a seafarer (ie. an essential worker) in the eyes of airlines and immigration officials. It provides access to marine flight tickets and increased luggage allowance.
How to get one
In the current framework (ILO 108), SIDs can be issued by the crew member’s country of nationality, country of the flag vessel, or by the country of the crew member’s employer. Some flag authorities require a first-time application for a SID to be signed off by a current employer, while others merely require a certified professional (eg a lawyer, doctor, police officer, etc) to countersign the application. (ILO 185, adopted in 2003, has not yet been ratified by all Member States. This new standard is a biometric document, which can only be issued by a crew member’s country of nationality or country of legal, permanent residence).
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What is the legal purpose of SID?
While the United Nations’ International Maritime Organization (IMO) is responsible for the regulatory framework of maritime shipping, the International Labour Organization (ILO) is the UN agency that oversees international labour standards, including those for merchant seafarers. The ILO’s 183 Member States adopted the SID in 1958, to facilitate crew travel aboard seafaring vessels visiting other countries’ designated seaports. Crew members who do not carry a valid SID issued by a ratifying Member State may be subject to the visa/entry requirements of the destination country. For example, a US national entering a Brazilian port without a recognised SID is required to obtain a Brazilian work visa in their passport, prior to entering Brazilian national waters.
Summary of benefits:
• Recognised by most IMO/ILO member states as a valid passport, identifying the bearer as an essential seafarer (important when flying under restrictions) • Helps in arranging and obtaining visas • Enables crew to travel on marine flight fares, which can be discounted, refundable and offer greater flexibility with changes and luggage allowances • Obviates the need to purchase a return flight ticket in some cases • Creates a clear record of career progression for future employers.
Where to get a SID bit.ly/sid-aus bit.ly/sid-bvi bit.ly/sid-bahamas bit.ly/sid-bermuda bit.ly/sid-ci bit.ly/sid-canada bit.ly/sid-cookislands
bit.ly/sid-de bit.ly/sid-iom bit.ly/sid-italy bit.ly/sid-mi bit.ly/sid-malta bit.ly/sid-nz bit.ly/sid-panama
bit.ly/sid-philippines bit.ly/sid-russia bit.ly/sid-svg bit.ly/sid-gb bit.ly/sid-ukr bit.ly/sid-usa bit.ly/sid-za
©Estela Shipping Superyacht Agency 2022
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Yachting transports the owners and guests to their dreams like in a film studio. This activity and industry work hard 24/7 to provide all the details and services to perform their expectations. These expectations in the high and competitive market are not easy to provide, due to the fact that the experience has to be supported by many suppliers in different destinations to create the perfect outcome. The international links between port, authorities, flags, tax, customs, crews and other scopes to cover the yachting needs requires a legal service with a high skill and deep knowledge of the industry. After COVID 19 and other issues like Russian fines, the world and industry become more uncertain, and our law firm wants to become your lighthouse and compass providing legal advice in advance to avoid unplanned troubles. A full range of legal services up to date, providing legal assistance to crews and agents in their daily tasks will allow the yacht crucial circle free to improve the dreams according to client´s expectations.
These services may include immigration rules, suppliers’ discrepancies, yachts captain’s legal assistance to allow them not to return to other destinations using legal on-line tools to avoid delays in the yachting activities, and the possibility of assisting them in their employment contracts to cover the last yachting industry uncertainties. The legal advice is crucial to avoid these sorts of rules related to national and international legal framework and to avoid problems to owners, guests and passengers. A good tax and customs planning are essential to keep all areas of the yachting activity safe, avoiding high fines and other legal effects which can ruin this experience. Our law firm can provide a premium range of services, including cooperation with surveyors, insurance, agents and other authorities to solve all your legal issues in Spain, Gibraltar, Portugal, Morocco, Greece, France, Italy and other Mediterranean countries to keep your dreams safe.
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Teamwork that makes even the strangest dream work Need assistance? Contact us at estela@superyachts.agency + 34 971 722 532
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AGENCY CONTACT DETAILS ESTELA Shipping, Palma Office In the Balearics since 1850, Estela Shipping Superyacht Agency (‘Estela Yachting’) is an innovative provider of services for yachts visiting Mallorca, Barcelona, Gibraltar, Panama and surrounding areas. We are part of Estela Shipping Group, a commercial shipping agent with offices throughout Spain, Portugal, Gibraltar and Latin America. +34 971 722 532 estela@superyachts.agency
Delivery address: ESTELA Shipping Palma SA – *Name of boat* Avenida Gabriel Roca, 37 C (entrada en C/ Pedrera) 07014 Palma de Mallorca - Illes Baleares - Spain
Contacts: Francesco Gennai (ES, IT, EN, RU, RO) +34 638 816 803 | francesco.gennai@estelashipping.net Kristy Hollingsworth (EN, ES) +34 619 655 955 | kristy.hollingsworth@estelashipping.net Aixa Seri (ES, EN) +34 682 62 25 74
aixa.seri@estelashipping.net
ESTELA Barcelona +34 934 853 869
ESTELA Lanzarote +34 683 620 837
ESTELA Gibraltar +350 20044122
ESTELA Panamá City +507 832 0834
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ESTELA PROVIDES ANYTHING and EVERYTHING CAPTAINS, OWNERS and CREW REQUIRE.
For Owners & Guests Itinerary planning - Event tickets - Flights and transfers Courier/parcel services - Car rental/taxis/chauffeur services Tax-free shopping - Internet and telephony - Medical support
For Captains Arrival, departure, immigration - Visas, licences, passports Cash to Master, banking - Fuel and lube oil - Charter authorisation Logistics - Importation - Repairs, maintenance, refit, chandlery Yacht transportation and storage - Shipment and shrink wrapping
For Crew Provisioning and supplies - Laundry - Accommodation - Transfers Crew activities - Recruitment and training - Medical support Certification - Visas immigration - Uniforms
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OUR TEAM Francesco Gennai
PALMA DE MALLORCA
Francesco is Senior Yacht Support Consultant and has been in charge of the Palma office since 2015, with more than 14 years’ experience in the industry. Francesco is Italian and speaks English, Spanish, Russian and Romanian. +34 638 816 803
francesco.gennai@estelashipping.net
Kristy Hollingsworth
Kristy is Senior Yacht Support Consultant, based in Palma, and is in charge of day-to-day yachting operations. In addition to native English, Kristy speaks fluent Spanish. +34 619 655 955
kristy.hollingsworth@estelashipping.net
Aixa Seri
Aixa joined ESTELA in 2021 as Yacht Support Consultant, looking after day-to-day yachting operations in Palma. Aixa speaks native Spanish and is fluent in English. +34 682 62 25 74
aixa.seri@estelashipping.net
Silvia Benito
Silvia joined ESTELA in 2017, bringing with her experience in VIP and Concierge services, and administration management. She heads up yachting and shipping administration and supports our operations. Silvia speaks Spanish and fluent English. +34 687 569 782
silvia.benito@estelashipping.net
Alvaro Torres
Alvaro joined the commercial shipping team of ESTELA in 2018, and is responsible for commercial shipping operations in Palma. Alvaro speaks Spanish and fluent English. +34 661 385 800
palma@estelashipping.net
James van Bregt
James worked with ESTELA as a freelance copywriter in 2018 and joined the team in Palma later that year. He writes and edits ‘The Y Yachting Itineraries’ and manages our communications and social media, as well as supporting yachting operations. James is Dutch/ English bilingual and, just about, gets by in Spanish. +34 696 598 403
editor@estelashipping.net
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BARCELONA & MAINLAND SPAIN Romy Bourguignon
Gemma Castiñeira
Romy joined the Barcelona office in 2018, managing our yachting operations. Romy is an experienced client relations manager, fluent in French and Spanish and also speaks English. +34 650 395 113 yachts.barcelona@estelashipping.net
Miguel Arcos
Miguel is Managing Director of Estela Shipping in Palma, Barcelona and Gibraltar. miguel.arcos@ estelashipping.net
LANZAROTE & GIBRALTAR Monica Iren Lungard
Monica joined ESTELA in 2020, based inside the offices of Calero Marinas, our partners in Arrecife and operators of Marina Lanzarote and Calero Marina on the island. Monica is Norwegian and speaks English and Spanish fluently. +34 683 620 837 monica.iren@estelashipping.net
Gemma is a senior yacht agent, having worked in the industry for more than 20 years in Barcelona. Native in Spanish and Catalan, she is also fluent in English and French. +34 682 20 36 10 gemma.castineira@estelashipping.net
Javier Aradillas
Javier is responsible for managing fuel supply and administration.
javier.miranda@estelashipping.net
Jorge Marín & Cristina Campos
Jorge and Cristina are part of Estela’s shipping team in Barcelona, managing logistics and forwarding. forwarding.bcn@estelashipping.net
Kayron Marzan
Kayron joined ESTELA Shipping Gibraltar in 2019, managing day-to-day operations for both yachting and commercial activities. Kayron has been in the trading, bunkering and shipping agency business for 22 years. In addition to native English, Kayron speaks Spanish and Portuguese. +350 20044122 (24hrs) gibraltar@estelashipping.net
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WE MIX BUSINESS WITH PLEASURE... Whether you want to meet superyacht captains, brokers, or B2B customers in the industry, ESTELA can introduce you. We are the oldest superyacht and commercial agency in the Balearics, established in Palma de Mallorca in 1850. With offices located throughout Spain and Latin America, and an agency network that covers most major yachting centres, our network is unrivalled. Face-to-face is by far the most effective way of making new connections and in recent years, we have developed a highly successful events programme. In 2022, we hosted our first ‘famtrip’, taking more than 20 captains and partners to Lanzarote, generating new charter enquiries within weeks. Events deliver results. ESTELA hosts social gatherings and networking events for captains, crew and B2B partners. We have a presence at the Palma Superyacht Village, MYBA, the Monaco Yacht Show, FLIBS, METS, Boot Düsseldorf and others. Additionally, we support and co-host a number of other events throughout the year, so we know what works. For details about forthcoming events and about how you can be involved, please get in touch with Francesco Gennai, on +34 638 816 803 or email francesco.gennai@estelashipping.net
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WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO: Editor James van Bregt Graphic Designer Javier Tubert Photography Tito Bosch Camera Maximiliano David Mihaic Photo Editor Daniel Mellado Publisher Miguel Arcos Director Francesco Gennai Assistant Aixa Seri Administration Silvia Benito Javier Aradillas Commercial Support Enzo Cattaneo Wardrobe Vito Tous Stefanie Knabe Robertson
Props Arte y antigüedades Xarreque Fronda Make Up Artists Cati Duran Jean Pierre Faivre Cast Ruben Batalla Giuseppe Aste Kristy Hollingsworth Silvia Benito Gemma Castineira Aixa Seri Location M/Y FALCAO UNO – Palma de Mallorca
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Nicola Ninci Falcao Uno Crew Frasquet Gourmet The Wine Garden Frutas Navarro A special thanks goes to our partners and advertisers who continued to support this guide. Your trust and unwavering support is highly appreciated.
Thanks to Claude Ana Mariana & Cleopatra Misha Carlos Samblas Pilar David Vilamosa Toni Pocovi
This book is dedicated to the memory of Giuliano Di Benedetti.
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The Art Edition
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