MAINE
WINTER GUI DE
• Winter Fun in the Western Mountains • Kennebunkport’s Big Holiday Bash • Snowmobiling Adventures for Everyone
MAINE GUIDE Winter
1121 Main St., P.O. Box 520, Dublin, NH 03444 603-563-8111 newengland.com This special edition was produced by Yankee Publishing Inc. for the Maine Office of Tourism. Select stories and photographs are excerpted from articles previously published by Yankee. Vol. 1, No. 4 Copyright 2022 by Yankee Publishing Inc.; all rights reserved. PUBLISHER Brook Holmberg MARKETING DIRECTOR Kate Hathaway Weeks EDITOR Mel Allen ART DIRECTOR Katharine Van Itallie MANAGING EDITOR Jenn Johnson SENIOR FEATURES EDITOR Ian Aldrich SENIOR FOOD EDITOR Amy Traverso ASSOCIATE EDITOR Joe Bills PHOTO EDITOR Heather Marcus
On the cover: Against the backdrop of Flagstaff Lake, snowshoers explore part of the Maine Huts & Trails network in the Carrabassett Valley. Photo by Mark Fleming
WELCOME!
When winter comes to the Pine Tree State, Mainers know that it’s worth reaching for a few extra layers and warm boots to embrace the season in all its special beauty and exhilarating adventures. Snow transforms the Maine landscape into a playground where everybody, no matter their age or ability, can find ways to fill up these short winter days with tremendous amounts of fun. Nearly as large as all the other New England states combined, Maine holds so many diverse experiences: You can marvel at its 3,500-mile coastline and discover itineraries throughout the state that pay off with exceptional mountain, forest, and ocean views. You can go cross-country skiing in the Kennebec Valley, embark on a snowmobile trek in Aroostook County, or simply stroll the famed Marginal Way in the Maine Beaches and enjoy having its stunning Atlantic vistas seemingly all to yourself. There are many Maines, and each can provide memories that last a lifetime. Last year, with travel restrictions beginning to ease, some 15.6 million visitors came to Maine—an upward trend that has continued into 2022. After all, there’s plenty of room for exploring here. Wellknown destinations such as Bar Harbor, Portland, and Ogunquit have long been magnets for travelers, but there are also hidden gems to discover in Maine’s quieter towns and remote natural areas. And while you are immersed in Maine’s winter wonderland, don’t overlook the fact that this is also a time of seasonal celebrations, of holiday parades and fireworks and downtown parties. There may be no better way to warm yourself than by fueling up with some hot cocoa, joining in one of these festive gatherings, and becoming part of a long-cherished local tradition. In the end, a winter visit to Maine offers the chance not just to travel, but to dive into everything that makes this state so special: the beauty, the culture and heritage, the quality of life it offers. And when you depart, you know you’ll return, because what began as a vacation has become an experience you’ll want to revisit in every season. —Steve Lyons Director, Maine Office of Tourism
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Snow timeslows is go down time at Time onthe a Can-Am Crowncarriage International foliage-filled ride Sledin Dog Races in FortPark. Kent. Acadia National
CONTENTS MO MEN T S
5 Let It Snow A celebration of winter beauty in the Pine Tree State.
D ISCO VER I E S
30 Artful Escapes There may be no better place to spend a snowy day than in one of these first-class museums.
10 Winter’s Soul Find outdoor adventure with a side of cozy comfort in the mountains of western Maine.
33 Filling Stations At Maine’s beloved old-school diners, comfort food reigns supreme.
14 Jolly Good When it comes to merrymaking, few towns in America can hold a candle to Kennebunkport.
RES O U R C ES
18 All Revved Up Hit the trails to discover why Maine’s snowmobiling scene is the hottest in New England. PAUL CY R
26 Cool Riders When the temps drop, Maine’s surfing action heats up.
22 Go with the Flow On the banks of the Kennebec, the eclectic, laid-back town of Hallowell offers a warm winter welcome.
36 ’Tis the Season Yankee editors’ picks for holiday light shows, parades, and other joyful events that are worth the drive.
ICONS 42 Fun Run The nation’s only wooden toboggan chute is still delivering big-time thrills in Camden.
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MAINE GUIDE Winter
1. THE MAINE BEACHES Long swaths of white sand and scenic rocky coves give many visitors an unforgettable first look at Maine’s famous coastline.
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2. GREATER PORTLAND & CASCO BAY Don’t-miss restaurants, shops, museums, and breweries make for a lively scene in Maine’s largest city and its neighboring communities.
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4. DOWNEAST & ACADIA Home to Acadia National Park and stunning historic lighthouses, this is also a place to revel in Maine’s state fruit: wild blueberries.
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DISCOVERING THE
PINE TREE STATE W here are the best places to go in Maine? What makes the best Maine vacations? There is no one answer, for this is a state where the tourism regions are as distinct as they are plentiful. For parks and natural sights, many are drawn to the Maine Highlands, home to the state’s biggest lake, Moosehead, as well as its tallest mountain, Katahdin. Those who love city excitement find all the first-class dining and shopping they seek in Greater Portland & Casco Bay, while
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more rugged and dramatic coastal views await in DownEast & Acadia. The stories in this guide provide a sampling of the many things to do in Maine’s tourism regions, from exploring a historic river town in the Kennebec Valley to hitting the slopes in Maine’s Lakes & Mountains, and even experiencing a holiday festival like no other in the Maine Beaches. And while it’s impossible to sum up all the destinations and adventures that Maine offers, this guide can help map out the best Maine vacation for you.
5. MAINE’S LAKES & MOUNTAINS This region lives up to its name with hundreds of glacial lakes and two majestic mountain ranges traversed by the legendary Appalachian Trail. 6. THE KENNEBEC VALLEY Over 5,000 scenic square miles offer wilderness and whitewater alongside quiet river towns and the state capital, Augusta. 7. THE MAINE HIGHLANDS Natural beauty reaches its peak in the center of Maine, where Katahdin reigns over the massive and “forever wild” Baxter State Park. 8. AROOSTOOK COUNTY “The Crown of Maine” beckons visitors with Acadian culture, historic sites, and endless outdoor recreation possibilities.
JA NGELTUN/ ISTOCK
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3. MIDCOAST & ISLANDS Maine’s classic coastal charm abounds amid picturesque villages and vibrant waterfronts.
DAVE WA DDELL /STOCKSY
LET IT SNOW W
hen it comes to snowfall, Maine lays it on thick: During the course of the season, it averages more than 75 inches of the white stuff—and as much as 110 inches in its northern interior. Overall it sees more than twice the U.S. average, and among individual states it ranks second only to its New England neighbor, Vermont. But as visitors to Maine will learn, you don’t have to be a skier to celebrate a generous helping
MIDCOAST & ISLANDS: In Owls Head Harbor, the classic summer scene of fishing boats at rest takes on a wintry sparkle.
of snow. Far from being a wet blanket, this is a magic carpet that unrolls across the state’s endlessly varied terrain, reshaping both its appearance and its possibilities. Snow softens craggy peaks and spiky evergreens, brightens fields and valleys, and turns towns into storybook versions of themselves. It’s a transformation that invites visitors to look at Maine in a whole new way—and in accepting that invitation, they, too, may find themselves transformed.
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MAINE GUIDE Winter
THE MAINE BEACHES: Though snowy owls are a relatively rare sight in Maine, die-hard birders may have the most luck spotting them on Maine’s southern coast, where frozen marshes and open beaches offer prime hunting grounds for this stunning winter visitor from the high Arctic.
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PAUL CY R (TOP); K A RL R A MSDELL (BOTTOM )
AROOSTOOK COUNTY: The primary north-south link between Aroostook County and New Brunswick, Canada, Route 11 also offers a famously beautiful driving route. Known as the Fish River Scenic Byway from Portage to Fort Kent, it dazzles long after autumn’s foliage display has ended.
CHRIS BENNETT/CAVA N IM AGES (TOP); M A RK PICA RD (BOTTOM )
MAINE’S LAKES & MOUNTAINS: Less than half an hour’s drive from the bustle of Maine’s second-largest city, Lewiston, a cross-country skier enjoys a journey of utter solitude and beauty on the snow-covered expanse of Upper Range Pond, in Poland.
THE MAINE HIGHLANDS: Named Katahdin (“Greatest Mountain”) by the Penobscot people, Maine’s tallest mountain is the majestic centerpiece of Baxter State Park. It can see snow in any month of the year, but in winter it rivals Mount Washington as New England’s most challenging ascent.
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ACADIA & DOWNEAST: A welcome sight for many islanders, the Sunbeam makes a stop at Frenchboro amid a picturesque gentle flurry. Operated by the nonprofit Maine Seacoast Mission, the steel-hulled vessel brings health services and other resources to remote island communities year-round.
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COURTESY OF COLBY COLLEGE (TOP); CA RL TREMBL AY (BOTTOM )
THE KENNEBEC VALLEY: Snowfall blankets the grounds of Miller Library at Waterville’s Colby College, one of the nation’s oldest independent colleges. The library is one of the school’s best-known landmarks, with its expansive lawn hosting commencement ceremonies each year.
MAINE GUIDE
FREDERICK BLOY
Winter
GREATER PORTLAND & CASCO BAY: Ocean-carved rock frames a winter scene of Portland Head Light in Cape Elizabeth. Maine’s oldest lighthouse is also one of its best-loved attractions, drawing nearly a million visitors a year to view the beacon from the grounds of Fort Williams Park.
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MAINE GUIDE Winter
At Sugarloaf, skiers ride to the summit against a sweeping Carrabassett Valley backdrop.
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WINTER’S
SOUL
Find outdoor adventure with a side of cozy comfort in the mountains of western Maine. BY HI L A RY NANGL E
M
ore than anywhere I know, the soul of a New England winter exists amid the frozen waterways, snow-drifted woods, and frosted peaks of western Maine. Remote and wild, this slice of the state, cornered by New Hampshire and Quebec, draws skiers, snowboarders, snowshoers, and snowmobilers, who revel in the deep cover and rarely crowded trails, surrounded by miles of natural beauty. Sugarloaf and Saddleback Mountain are the marquee attractions here, islands of bright lights and human voices, hearty food and comfortable beds. But it’s the towns and villages slumbering in their shadows—Kingfield, Carrabassett Valley, Rangeley, Oquossoc—that make the best partners for the winter ball, especially when dressed in white. Sugarloaf: Feel the Love
Pop into the Kingfield Woodsman for breakfast, and you’ll be rubbing elbows with skiers en route to Sugarloaf, loggers heading into the woods, and Canadian truckers hauling their first loads of the day. Although it’s the gateway to Sugarloaf, Kingfield is a real town with a distinct Maine vibe, and just enough shops, galleries, and museums, along with restaurants and inns, to invite plunking down for a couple of days. In the early 1950s, local businessman Amos Winter and his “Bigelow Boys” cut the first ski trail on nearby Sugarloaf Mountain. Within a couple of years, Winter and some farsighted investors had established the Sugarloaf Mountain Ski Club, carving trails and naming them with logging and lumberjack terms. Their winter playground went on to become one of the largest alpine resorts in New England. That story, as well as many others from Maine’s skiing heritage, is shared at the Maine Ski and Snowboard Hall of Fame, recently relocated from Kingfield to the neighboring town of Carrabassett Valley. Kingfield’s development was tied primarily to the logging, milling, and lumbering trades, but increasingly, artists and crafters are settling here,
PHOTO BY CA RL TREMBL AY
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MAINE GUIDE Winter
center:
Seaplanes from across the East Coast and Canada converge on Bald Mountain Camps in Oquossoc for its annual Winter Fly-In weekend.
right:
A cross-country skier makes his way along the Maine Hut Trail, a groomed route south of Bigelow Preserve.
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Trail, an easygoing route that snakes through the woods south of the ridge. The side trail to Poplar Stream Falls, two horsetails measuring 51 feet and 24 feet, respectively, is worth the effort—and a hot meal at the nearby Poplar Stream Falls Hut makes a great reward. Saddleback: Wilderness Escape
Heading southwest along Route 16, a lonely 17-mile stretch of road—where you’re far more likely to see moose, deer, or snowmobiles than other cars— tethers Stratton to Rangeley, an outpost of civilization surrounded by woods, overlorded by mountains, and edged by water most of the way. “It’s a wilderness experience—that’s what’s up here,” says Steve Philbrick, owner of Bald Mountain Camps Resort in Oquossoc. “There are places I can send you to where you’ll never hear a snowmobile, where if another human has visited in the last week or so, it’s because I’ve sent them there.”
CA RL TREMBL AY
left: Backcountry trekkers are invited to relax and recharge at Flagstaff Lake Hut, part of Maine Huts & Trails’ series of eco-lodges connected by 80 miles of trail from West Forks to Stratton.
transforming once-vacant buildings and storefronts into studios and galleries. Lured by the rolling landscape, those who take their cues from nature find inspiration wherever they turn. From Kingfield, Route 27 noses through the Carrabassett Valley, twisting and turning with the ice-choked river. Then suddenly around a curve, you see it: Sugarloaf’s white-capped triangle. You’ll understand immediately why locals have long called this “Oh-My-Gosh Corner.” On a blue-sky day, all it takes is one run from that above-treeline summit to the funky, angular base village to feel the love—and on a powder day, that love can become a lifelong affair. Facing Sugarloaf from the north is another of the state’s 4,000-footers, Bigelow Mountain. Winter hikers brave the Appalachian Trail, which crosses its summit ridgeline, but there’s a far less challenging way to explore this swath of wilderness, and that’s on snowshoes or cross-country skis along the Maine Hut
EAT, STAY & PLAY For more ideas on where to go and what to do in the Sugarloaf and Saddleback areas, go to: mainesnorth westernmountains.com. Kingfield Woodsman, Kingfield: Best choice
in the area for local color, especially at breakfast. Facebook Tufulio’s, Carrabassett Valley: Italian-accented
family favorite and crafter of the valley’s best pizza. Facebook Three Stanley Avenue Guest House, Kingfield:
Quiet Victorian six-room charmer, just a short walk from downtown. stanleyavenue.com Bald Mountain Camps, Oquossoc: Family-
But it’s not all woods and water up here. Rangeley’s downtown is peppered with shops carrying a mind-boggling assortment of moosey merchandise, plus a movie theater, a bowling alley, and a handful of inns and restaurants. Smalltown kindness and camaraderie are also pervasive here, exemplified by the free loaner skates available at Ecopelagicon for use on adjacent Haley Pond, and by the winter sporting events and wingdings brightening the seasonal calendar. Rangeley’s history is filled with sports and rusticators, anglers and hunters: names such as Cornelia “Fly Rod” Crosby, the state’s first licensed Maine Guide, and Carrie Stevens, who earned national renown for her fishing prowess and original fly patterns. Even in winter, there’s no escaping it. The trails etching Saddleback’s face are named for famous fishing flies, such as “Grey Ghost,” “Green Weaver,” and “Blue Devil.” Once touted as the “Vail of the East,” Saddleback Maine struggled in recent
decades and even closed for a long stretch, from 2015 to 2020. Now this spectacular chunk of real estate, just east of Rangeley, is under new ownership that has invested upward of $30 million in improvements, including a renovated base lodge, a new high-speed quad, and a new T-bar. Unchanged, however, are the sinewy trails, edge-of-the-wilderness experience, and head-swiveling views over the frozen expanse of the Rangeley Lakes to New Hampshire’s distant Presidential Range. Those vistas astound me every time I come here, especially on one of those days after a storm, when the sun’s brilliance makes me squint; when evergreen branches are laden with snow and the runty summit trees are rimed with ice. When shadows fall long, most folks retire to the warmth of woodstove or fireplace, content to swap tales and swig beer. But if it’s clear, I prefer to bundle up, head into the hushed darkness, and gaze beyond the starlight canopy into the soul of a New England winter’s night.
oriented sporting camp on Mooselookmeguntic Lake. baldmountain camps.com Maine Huts & Trails, Kingfield: Backcountry
eco-lodges linked by skiing, snowshoeing, and fat bike trails. mainehuts.org Rangeley Lakes Trails Center, Rangeley: Ski
and snowshoe rentals, and access to 65km of groomed trails. xcskirangeley.com Sugarloaf, Carrabassett Valley: 1,240 skiable
acres on Maine’s second-highest peak. sugarloaf.com Saddleback, Rangeley:
Nearly 70 trails for all skill levels, plus two terrain parks. saddlebackmaine.com
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MAINE GUIDE Winter
JOLLY
GOOD When it comes to merrymaking, few towns in America can hold a candle to Kennebunkport.
BY M EG LU K EN S NOONA N
I
t’s only 7:20 p.m. in the Old Vines Wine Bar party tent, and already the ladies in the reindeer suits are kicking up their hooves. They’re giving it everything they’ve got—and so is the band, digging into “Jingle Bell Rock.” I’m not quite ready to hit the dance floor, but I’m getting there. After all, it’s Christmastime in Kennebunkport. If I’ve learned anything since I arrived, it’s this: When it comes to embracing the holidays, the good people of this southern Maine seacoast town are fully and unabashedly committed—and they want you to be, too. I’d only known Kennebunkport, a village of restored 18th- and 19th-century buildings on the tidal Kennebunkport River, as a bustling summer place with stellar lobster shacks and rocky, kayakworthy coves. But now that its two-week Christmas Prelude had put the town on America’s don’t-miss list, I set off for a mid-December visit, envisioning a weekend sampling the quiet pleasures
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Christmas spirit comes ashore in Kennebunkport as Santa and Mrs. Claus make their way from the dock to the Boathouse Waterfront Hotel, where their fans have lined up to greet them.
PHOTO BY NICOLE WOLF
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MAINE GUIDE Winter
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Maine Winter Guide 2022
and marshals hundreds of volunteers to deck the town with greenery, red bows, and twinkle lights. “Christmas Prelude started [in 1982] as a way for businesses to give back to locals, and it grew into this giant monster,” he said with a laugh. “When we first opened, we were told, ‘Be ready for Prelude weekends. You’re going to need a doorman.’” Back in town, I headed out for more shopping. In Spaces, a beachy homedecor shop in the Lower Village, I fell in love with bottle-brush trees in shades of tangerine, melon, and coral. And as I made my purchase, I discovered that the woman behind the counter was Cheryll Pendergast—also known in these parts as Mrs. Claus. “I ride in the lobster boat with Santa when he arrives during Prelude with two of Santa’s helpers, who are dressed in lobster costumes,” she said. “It’s amazing. We come down the river, and there are so many people on the bridge, cheering and yelling. It’s like Santa is a rock star.” I told her I was sorry I missed that. “I’ve done it for 20 years, and I’ve been through five Santas,” she said, adding, “No one else will put on that dress in the middle of winter.” I laughed with her, but I got the feeling she wouldn’t hand over the red dress even if another volunteer came forward. At the Boathouse hotel’s water-view restaurant, I dug into lobster mac and cheese and studied the Prelude schedule. I’d missed the festival-opening hat parade (I’d heard some people worked for a year on their elaborate headgear), but I would be able to catch the dog parade before I left town tomorrow. Tonight, I planned to hit the party tents at the Kennebunkport Inn and the Old Vines Wine Bar. I’d listen to some live music, sample some more local brews. And I’d watch with pleasure—and a little bit of envy—as dancing ladies in reindeer suits lost themselves in the joyful noise of the season.
More than 160 events are scheduled over the course of the 2022 Kennebunkport Christmas Prelude
(Dec. 1–11). Here’s a quick preview; for the full list, go to: christmasprelude.com Cape Porpoise LobsterTrap Tree Lighting:
Featuring refreshments and caroling with the Church on the Cape Choir. 4:30 p.m. Dec. 2. Hat Parade: Open to
all with a chapeau to show off, with prizes in various categories. 3 p.m. Dec. 3. Candlelight Caroling at the Franciscan Monastery: At Our
Lady of Lourdes Grotto. 6:30 p.m. Dec. 3. Santa Arrives by Lobster Boat: For
the first time, the Nonantum Resort hosts the landing of Mr. and Mrs. Claus, with photo ops, crafts, and games. 12:30 p.m. Dec. 4. Family Street Festival:
Strolling carolers, live music, food vendors, entertainers, and more. 4 p.m. Dec. 9. Tree Lighting in Dock Square & Fireworks:
The second of two Dock Square tree lightings, capped off with a dazzling pyrotechnic display. 5 p.m. lighting; 6:15 p.m. fireworks; Dec. 9. Pooch Parade: A merry
mix of dogs dressed for the holidays, open to all. 11 a.m. Dec. 11.
NICOLE WOLF
of an off-season resort. To be sure, I found them—but I also found a buoyant, roving block party, part Whoville, part Mardi Gras. “There is a no-holds-barred atmosphere during Prelude,” said Michelle Rose, co-owner of Minka, a local art and home goods boutique. “People who wouldn’t normally go out dressed silly come here in big groups. They’re in good moods, they’re happy. It’s meant to be joyful.” And joyful it was—especially Friday evening in Dock Square, the village center, just beyond Minka’s front door. Speakers blared sing-along Christmas standards. Hundreds of people—in snowflake sweaters and elf costumes and head-to-toe tartan—surrounded a giant spruce hung with colorful wooden buoys and topped with a cutout lobster, to await its official lighting. And after the tree burst into sparkling life, there came a harborside fireworks show, its chrysanthemum-shaped colors illuminating the cheering crowd. The next day, I started out with breakfast at Musette, a bright bistro set in a white clapboard house in the compact fishing village of Cape Porpoise, Kennebunkport’s original English settlement. From my sunny window seat, I could see the distinctive facade of Atlantic Hall, the century-old fire station turned community center and library. Just out of view was what is surely Cape Porpoise’s most Instagrammed attraction: a Christmas tree made of weathered lobster traps. A short walk away, I found Bruce and Liz Andrews busily restocking shelves at Farm + Table, their gift shop set in a freshly painted red barn. The couple had vacationed in Kennebunkport for 25 years when they spotted the old barn in 2013, and knew it was the space they’d been seeking for a long-dreamed-of shop. Bruce knows how much effort goes into Prelude. He is a member of the Kennebunkport Business Council, the group that puts on the festival every year
PRELUDE HIGHLIGHTS
A jolly pair of lobsters escort the guests of honor as they arrive by lobster boat for the Christmas Prelude festivities.
Lobster traps are transformed into a coastal Christmas tree in Cape Porpoise.
Batson River Brewing co-founder Matt Dyer grills up sausages for Prelude revelers.
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ALL REVVED
W
hen winter’s first snowflakes waltz by the window, savvy snowmobilers eagerly begin planning trips in Maine. They know the Pine Tree State ranks as one of North America’s top sledding destinations: With more than 14,000 trail miles, including 4,000 miles on the Interconnected Trail System (ITS), and plentiful snow, Maine delivers a heavenly experience for sledders. That’s especially true of northern Maine, where the snow is measured
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in feet rather than inches, and dark skies reward sledders with brilliant stargazing. And occasionally, Mother Nature’s show-stopper appears: the Northern Lights, with streaks and swirls of green, white, and red shimmying across the sky. “Snowmobiling gives you the freedom to get out in the middle of nowhere and explore, the freedom of being off the beaten path, and the exhilaration of a nice, fast machine underneath you,” says avid snowmobiler Travis Allen.
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MAINE GUIDE
With more than 14,000 miles of trails, Maine’s snowmobiling scene is the hottest in New England.
PHOTO BY DAV ID MCL A IN/CAVA N IM AGES
Winter
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this page: Amid Aroostook County’s pristine winter landscape, local snowmobilers embark on a benefit ride in Chapman, southwest of Presque Isle. previous spread: Riders hit the trail in the Moosehead Lake area, which boasts a spectacular 100-mile-plus loop around the lake.
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PAUL CY R
During snowmobiling season, Allen and his partner, Susanne LeVasseur, spend every weekend, and sometimes long weekends, on their snow machines. “It’s a wonderful way to get out there and enjoy winter. We get excited about it,” says LeVasseur, who adds that they often see wildlife along the way. “It’s really cool to see moose on the trail. I’ve also seen deer, bobcat, coyote at night, and even some dive-bombing owls.” And they both enjoy the social aspects of encountering people in places they wouldn’t expect to see them. The couple especially loves riding in Aroostook County, better known as the County. The largest county east of the Mississippi sprawls across nearly 7,000 square miles and borders the Canadian provinces of New Brunswick and Quebec. Laced with 2,300 miles of trails, this sparsely populated region earns raves for its long season, abundant snow, and varied terrain of farmlands, mountains, forests, and waterways. “County trails are the most beautiful, groomed, wide trails, and there are lots of good stops for lunch and drinks,” LeVasseur says. One of the couple’s favorite trails, the Border Trail, runs along the U.S.– Canada border between Mars Hill and Van Buren. “It has steep hills, cool jumps, and granite pillars in the middle that mark the border,” Allen says. Plus, he adds, the scenery is beautiful. For example, on a clear day, you can see Mount Katahdin, Maine’s highest peak. Registered Maine Guide and snowmobile enthusiast Kaleb Jacob also praises the County for the quantity of snow and the quality of the trails, but he loves its immensity, too. “I do a lot of snowmobiling in Maine’s western mountains, but the County is different. We’ll put on 500 to 600 miles in three or four days,” says Jacob, who frequents the region with friends. “And because the snow is so reliable, the season is much longer than in other places. Sometimes it gets three feet of snow in one storm.” Jacob, who usually rides with friends, enjoys riding north from Millinocket,
in the Maine Highlands region, north to Fort Kent, and on to Allagash. “We’ll stay ‘lost’ up there and then circle back,” he says. He can also loop through Loring, Houlton, Allagash, and Patten on another multiday trip. “The scenery is breathtaking. As you get closer to Fort Kent, it’s potato fields and big rolling hills, and you can see forever. And near Frenchville, you overlook the St. John River to Canada.” Of course, for many riders, it’s not about just the scenery but also the speed. The ITS 88 trail comprises many sections on former railways, making it easier to go fast. “Wide, straight trails allow you to see wildlife sooner [and avoid collisions]. It’s safer to go fast when you can see a mile ahead,” Jacob says. Maine snowmobile trails in the Moosehead, Mount Katahdin, and Jackman areas and those in the western mountains also draw riders. “From Jackman, it’s two to three hours to Greenville, and from there, you can go on to Millinocket,” Jacob says. Or detour northward: “Seeing the abandoned trains in the Allagash region is really spooky on a snowmobile,” he says. LeVasseur says she and Allen have departed Rockwood first thing in the morning and ridden to Presque Isle. “That’s 633 miles round-trip.” One of their big plans this year is to loop between Jackman and the County via Canada. “It’ll be a one- or two-week trip,” she says. Plans call for departing Rockwood for Jackman and then over the border to Quebec, on to New Brunswick, crossing back at Fort Kent, and returning to Rockwood. While towns along Maine’s white highways offer food and lodging, Maine’s traditional sporting camps and remote lodges provide an option for those who want to ride deep into the wilderness. Many, such as Libby Camps, Hewes Brook, Bowlin Camps, and Pittston Farm, welcome riders with hearty meals and woodstove-heated cabins. “It’s different than staying in a town,” LeVasseur says. “It’s nice to have that remote feeling when you’re truly in the middle of the woods.” —Hilary Nangle
GETTING IN GEAR n Your first stop should be the state Department of Inland Fisheries & Wildlife,
for rules, regulations, and other helpful info, including a list of snowmobile rental agents. maine.gov/ ifw/atv-snowmobile n For a map of Maine’s Interconnected Trail System (ITS) and to see trail condition reports, check out the Maine Snowmobile Association website.
mesnow.com n Maine also has a number of longtime outfitters ready to pave the way for newcomers, including: New England Outdoor Center, Millinocket:
Rentals, three-hour guided tours, and lodging packages, with the largest fleet of rental sleds in Maine. neoc.com Northern Outdoors, The Forks: Access
to 100-plus miles of groomed local trails, guided tours up to a full day, trailside cabins, and more. northernoutdoors.com Northwoods Outfitters, Greenville: Rentals
and tours, plus a variety of stay-andplay packages at the Moose Mountain Inn. maineoutfitter.com North Country Rivers, Bingham: Base resort
located right on the ITS, with everything else a beginning (or veteran) snowmobiler might need. north countryrivers.com
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GO WITH THE FLOW O On the banks of the Kennebec, the eclectic, laid-back town of Hallowell offers a warm winter welcome.
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n a quiet, early-winter afternoon down by the Kennebec River in Hallowell, you can hear the ice creak like an old ship as it crowds the open water. Here, just inland from MidCoast Maine, the river can ice up so fast that sailing vessels in the 1800s would flee the port of Hallowell when the weather turned cold, or risk freezing in place. Hallowell’s downtown sits against this broad stretch of river, leaning into its banks. “Eight months of the year Hallowell, Maine, was a seaport,” writes Laurel Thatcher Ulrich in A Midwife’s Tale, her Pulitzer Prize–winning book
BENJA MIN WILLI A MSON
based on Martha Ballard’s diary from 1785 to 1812. Few towns can boast such a detailed record of daily life, riveting in its authentic ordinariness. Ballard delivered 816 babies in 27 years, in and around Hallowell, repeatedly crossing the Kennebec, tending illness of every kind. For all its remoteness, the port bustled. Gristmills ground and pounded grain; sawmills buzzed out lumber. If the ice really could talk, it would spill out tales of tall ships, ice harvests, and fierce floods, mixing with good times along the waterfront. Hallowell’s story is entwined with the river like a vine wrapped around a
branch. The smell of history is in the air, and maybe that explains why for many years it was the antiquing capital of Maine. There’s still a sprinkling of antiques shops here, but what draws the eye today is the string of restaurants lining downtown. There’s a surprising number of eating options for such a small city (among the very smallest in the state, population 2,570). But there’s an added twist to this culinary development—one you can tap your toes to. As streetlamps turn on up and down Water Street, their glow sends a signal into the cold night, and a few random notes spill into the street.
Rising alongside the Kennebec River and filled with preserved 18th- and 19th-century architecture, the historic port town of Hallowell may be small in size but it’s plenty big on character.
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left: The soaring Gothic interior of the Hubbard Free Library, dedicated in 1880 and now the oldest library building in Maine still serving its original function. center:
The popular watering hole Easy Street Lounge offers a mix of artsy decor, live music, and relaxed fellowship.
right:
The snowy streets of downtown Hallowell make its many dining and shopping spots all the more warmly welcoming.
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There’s a folksinger at Slates—Katie Daggett—with a throaty warble that warms you like a sip of whiskey. A burst of acoustic guitar exhales through the doorway at The Liberal Cup. Below street level, the bar at Easy Street Lounge is trimmed with twinkling Christmas lights, and the Cowboy Angels are getting ready to jam. Live music is on tap, up and down the street. “The New Orleans of the North” is a phrase that’s tossed around on this chilly night. As winter begins to settle in, there’s a warm camaraderie that seeps into your bones. “Everybody knows everybody,” says Sara Dix, who’s lived in town for more than 40 years and coowns the Second Street B&B with King Parsells. “It’s a town of huggers.”
Maine Winter Guide 2022
Summing up Hallowell is almost impossible without a run-on sentence, between the live music, good restaurants, and hyper-local shopping scene, with rehabbed 19thcentury buildings housing the new, the irreverent, and the artistic. Water Street is dotted with businesses that have stuck around, like Slates (42 years), Merrill’s Bookshop (32), and Dom’s Barbershop (88). In its heyday, Hallowell had more than two dozen antiques shops, and some treasurehunting grounds still remain—most notably the Hallowell Antique Mall, which boasts scores of dealers selling everything from furniture to vintage tools and artwork. A few blocks up Water Street,
SA R A GR AY
Winter
OUT & ABOUT Planning a visit to Hallowell? Here are some time-tested spots to put on your itinerary. For more ideas on where to eat, stay, and play, go to: hallowell.org Slates: Popular Water Street dinner spot whose pasta, bread, and desserts are made fresh daily at its bakery next door. slatesrestaurant.com The Liberal Cup:
Classic pub fare and craft beers from its own on-site brewery. theliberalcup.com Second Street B&B:
Five guestrooms in a classic Colonial just a short stroll from the Kennebec. Facebook Merrill’s Bookshop:
towering walls of used books beckon to bibliophiles at Merrill’s Bookshop. “The older and more obscure the book, the better your chance of finding it here,” says owner John Merrill. It’s easy to pass hours here, fingers rustling the pages of a Hardy Boys mystery or a firstedition East of Eden. “I’m going to be the last old-fashioned bookstore,” Merrill declares. “No Internet. I refuse. It takes all the fun out of it.” The past is never far away in Hallowell: The “Museum in the Streets” project takes you on a fascinating walking tour, via street placards, of Hallowell landmarks, including the Hubbard Free Library, brimming with Victorian Gothic charm, and the Ebenezer Dole House, where Maine’s
first anti-slavery society was formed back in 1833. To really get to know this cozy little community, though, “just go downtown and see what’s going on,” says King Parsells, co-owner of the Second Street B&B. “Have coffee and a bite to eat,” Dix chimes in. “Talk to the bartenders— they’re a wealth of information. Bruce Mayo [owner of Easy Street] initiates a lot of what happens in Hallowell.” Like what, for instance? “Old Hallowell Days [in July] is a big deal, but besides that, we have parades for everything. Christmas—we’ll have a parade. We have a parade in February for Mardi Gras,” Dix says, and laughs. “We’re freezing and we’re looking for fun, so we make an event!” —Annie Graves
Packed with more than 50,000 rare and unusual volumes of history and literature. Call ahead to check hours. merrills bookshop.com Hallowell Antique Mall: Spanning two
buildings of affordably priced trinkets and treasures from dozens of dealers. Facebook Vaughan Woods: A
dreamy 197-acre woodland laced with streams, stone bridges, and public trails. tklt.org Jamies Pond: Another hiking gem, with 840 acres of wilderness set around a pristine 107acre pond. hallowell .govoffice.com
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COOL
RIDERS When the oceanside temperatures drop, Maine’s surfing action really heats up.
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Just a short drive from Portland, prime surf calls to hardy winter riders.
PHOTO BY GABE BORNSTEIN
he ability to enjoy winter is a thoroughly modern phenomenon, according to the writer Adam Gopnik. Before triple-glazed windows and radiant floor heating, many found it hard to actually like this extreme season, with its icy temperatures and often-forbidding weather. But these days, winter is something to be relished, not just simply endured. And nowhere is that more apparent than on the sands of Scarborough’s Higgins Beach in the depths of February. For those of us who surf, the southern beaches of the state are the most appealing, thanks to their relatively clear coastlines. North of Portland, the shoreline is strewn with islands and peninsulas that tend to break up the long, clean swells that make surfers salivate. But the pocket of land between York and Cape Elizabeth hits all the right notes. The wind comes in clean; the sand is soft underfoot. And in the winter, the quiet descends, as the crowds of earlier seasons give way to a new, smaller group of visitors who snap up the off-season hotel rates and glorify in the churning waves. For centuries, surfing was something practiced primarily near the equator,
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from left: Winter light, low-hanging clouds, and the onset of evening combine to turn a Maine surf outing into a magical escape; clad in neoprene from head to toe (and fingertip), a winter surfer catches a ride off the southern coast of Maine.
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mainly among Polynesian peoples, who invented both the boards and the tradition of “water sliding.” In the 20th century, surfing saw a massive boom thanks in part to the influence of Hollywood movies and the rise of American counterculture. While the majority of surfers congregated on the West Coast, the 1960s and ’70s saw a rise in surfing on our Atlantic shores. The wetsuit, invented in the 1950s in San Francisco, became a common sight on beaches during the high summer, as did lightweight fiberglass and foam longboards. The popularization of neoprene hoods, boots, and gloves allowed Maine surfers to stretch their season beyond the dog days of August. While it’s never exactly comfortable to submerge oneself in 40-degree water, head-to-toe neoprene
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makes it bearable. It also makes winter surfing a vigorous workout. Tight-fitting wetsuits, while useful for keeping body heat in, hinder movement. It’s easier to surf without a wetsuit—easier to paddle quickly to catch a wave, easier to jump up swiftly to ride one. But in order to surf, one needs a wave powerful enough to push them to shore, and that’s not something that comes along every day. The truth of the matter is that Maine’s waves tend to be much better in fall and winter—something that can be chalked up to a variety of factors, including global weather patterns, deep ocean currents, and surface winds. A good winter for northern waves can sometimes be predicted by observing storms in the southern hemisphere; a busy hurricane season can send waves crashing up from
GABE BORNSTEIN
Winter
WINTER SURFING TIPS Connect with local pros. Maine surf
shops are essential resources, not just for rentals but lessons and sage advice on winter surfing. Black Point in Scarborough and Liquid Dreams in Ogunquit and York are just two of the places that are happy to get out-of-town surfers started. black pointsurfshop.com; liquiddreamssurf.com For safety’s sake, never surf alone.
This is true even in high summer, but it’s particularly important to follow the buddy system when the water dips below 50°F. Have a warm-up plan. Get your blood
the southeast. To take advantage of the motion of the ocean, many surfers become amateur meteorologists, following the Weather Channel as obsessively as investors monitor the stock market. Plenty of websites and services provide surf reports, but the most engaged surfers either create their own or head out to check conditions. It’s not uncommon for a group of surfers to coordinate, driving from beach to beach and reporting back to friends what they find. Fortunately, this kind of wave hunting isn’t necessary for casual winter surfing. For beginners, a swell of one to two feet is enough. I’ve been out in November when waves were six feet and found myself reeling in the whitewater while more experienced riders gracefully carved through teal-colored swells. However,
one of the best aspects of winter surfing is the exclusivity, coupled with a sense of community. Since it’s a small group of people who dare to venture into the Atlantic at its coldest, there are more waves for everyone. (This contrasts sharply with summer, when the beaches of Kennebunk and Wells are packed with boards, and wait times between rides tend to be longer.) Maine is still New England, which means your fellow surfers may not be exactly chatty, but they’re unfailingly helpful, which I’d argue is much more important. Warmth isn’t lacking; it’s just a secondary concern. No one is going to divulge their favorite surfing spot upon first meeting, but should you find yourself in a bind, I’m willing to bet someone will step up. —Katy Kelleher
pumping—stretching, jogging, etc.—before you step into the water, and make sure you can access warm, dry clothes as soon as you’re done. Pack a Thermos with hot tea or coffee. Conserve your energy and paddle out between sets. Don’t
try for every wave that looks good; wait until you have a feel for the ocean before expending your precious calories. Keep a lookout for other surfers, and respect the rules of the water. If someone
is closer to where the wave will break, they have right of way. Let them catch it and wait for the next set.
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ARTFUL ESCAPES There may be no better refuge on a snowy day than one of these first-class museums.
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inter in Maine can be a time of rest and reflection, a quiet season, but also an opportunity to recharge and refresh. A cozy afternoon spent in an art museum is a great way to gain new perspective after a busy summer and fall, and Maine, which has a long history of art and artists, has several top-notch destinations from which to choose. In the winter months you will these places peaceful, uncrowded, and uplifting. —Edgar Allen Beem
Portland Museum of Art | Portland
At Maine’s flagship art museum, the modernist building itself, designed by Henry Nichols Cobb of the I.M Pei firm, is a stunning thing to behold. Funded by industrialist Charles Shipman Payson coincident with his gift of 17 Winslow Homer paintings, the building opened in 1983, transforming what had been a small regional museum into a major art institution. In February, look for the debut of “American Perspectives,” an exhibition featuring 70 works from the American Folk Art Museum. portlandmuseum.org
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Bowdoin College Museum of Art | Brunswick
Built in 1894 and designed in a Renaissance style by Charles Follen McKim, this might be Maine’s most venerable art museum. Today it houses the deepest collection in the state, composed of some 25,000 works spanning 5,000 years of art history, including an antiquities collection with more than 1,800 Assyrian, Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Chinese objects. Among this winter’s exhibitions are vintage photographs of Rome and “Turn of Phrase,” which explores the use of language in contemporary art from 1980 to the present. bowdoin.edu/art-museum Colby College Museum of Art | Waterville
At the finest and largest art museum of any small liberal arts college in America, explore more than 10,000 objects in some 38,000 square feet of exhibition space, including the grand gallery devoted to the 400-plus works given to Colby by master realist Alex Katz. Since its founding in 1959, Colby’s museum has enjoyed many
MAINE GUIDE Winter
You’ll never see the same art twice at Rockland’s Center for Maine Contemporary Art, which mounts changing exhibits rather than maintaining a permanent collection.
PHOTO BY GRETA RY BUS
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MUSEUMHOPPING IN MAINE Some of Maine’s acclaimed cultural institutions do close in the off-season, such as the Ogunquit Museum of America Art and Bar Harbor’s Abbe Museum. But there are still plenty more to choose from this winter, including:
generous benefactors, chief among them the Lunder family (of Dexter Shoe fame), whose namesake collection features more than 300 works by James McNeill Whistler, the largest cache of his works in an academic museum. museum.colby.edu Bates College Museum of Art | Lewiston
Although it has a smaller facility and collection than Bowdoin or Colby, this handsome little museum has the presence of a basilica, and the exhibitions tend to be ambitious and adventurous. The core of the 8,000-object collection is works on paper, and among the most prized possessions are 100 drawings by Lewiston native Marsden Hartley. Appropriately, the winter exhibition spotlights eight contemporary artists whose work engages with Hartley’s own. bates.edu/museum Farnsworth Art Museum | Rockland
Occupying an entire city block in Rockland, the Farnsworth encompasses the original museum, the Farnsworth Homestead, a park, the former J.J. Newberry store transformed into galleries, and a repurposed church across the street that houses the popular Wyeth Center. To celebrate its 75th anniversary, the Farnsworth is rehanging
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its permanent collection and mounting an exhibition of paintings by Andrew Wyeth and Edward Hopper, a sure crowdpleaser. farnsworthmuseum.org Center for Maine Contemporary Art | Rockland
Having begun its life in 1952 as Maine Coast Artists in an old fire barn in the nearby town of Rockport, CMCA opened a new glass and steel gallery in 2016 just a block from the Farnsworth Art Museum in downtown Rockland. CMCA is the place where new art and new artists get discovered in Maine, as will no doubt be the case over this winter, when the 2023 CMCA Biennial showcases 33 Mainerelated artists. cmcanow.org Zillman Art Museum | Bangor
The former University of Maine Museum of Art occupies two floors of a former dance hall, a bowling alley, and a Sears store on the Kenduskeag Stream canal in downtown Bangor. Located 10 miles south of the University of Maine’s Orono campus, the Zillman serves both the university and the public with an exhibition focus on contemporary artists and a collecting focus on art from 1945 to the present. The winter schedule features four solo shows by artists from Maine and New York. zam.umaine.edu
Institute of Contemporary Art at Maine College of Art & Design, Portland: Offers an
array of cutting-edge exhibitions that attract the public alongside art-school students and faculty. meca.edu University of New England Art Gallery, Portland campus:
Houses UNE’s permanent collection and mounts exhibitions spanning a variety of media and themes each academic year. library.une.edu Maine Maritime Museum, Bath:
History hub that also hosts thoughtprovoking exhibits, such as “SeaChange: Darkness & Light in the Gulf of Maine” (opens Feb. 3). maine maritimemuseum.org Maine Jewish Museum, Portland:
A restored turn-of-thecentury synagogue whose rotating exhibits of contemporary art feature established, Jewish-connected, and Maine-connected artists. mainejewish museum.org
COURTESY OF PORTL A ND MUSEU M OF A RT
A visitor ponders Clifford Ross’s Wood Wave XLIX at last winter’s “Sightlines” exhibition at the Portland Museum of Art.
A cozy vintage vibe greets patrons at Gardiner’s A1 Diner, one of a handful of Maine’s original Worcester Lunch Car Co. dining cars.
FILLING STATIONS At the Pine Tree State’s beloved old-school diners, comfort food reigns.
PHOTO BY SA R AH H A RRIS
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hether you’re sliding into a wooden booth and ordering a slab of pie and a cup of joe or snagging a counter stool and ordering kimchi hash and a mimosa, there’s nothing finer than eating in a Maine diner. Maybe it’s the waitress calling you “doll” or “hon,” the banter between regulars, or the retirees gossiping about local politics—the vibe is universal and welcoming. “The great thing about diners is that they’re familiar. You can go anywhere in the country, and diners have common threads,” says Sarah Walker Caron, author of Classic Diners of Maine. “The menu is something you’ve seen before, and you probably have a favorite food. And that familiarity makes us feel at home.” Maine’s diners evolved from late19th-century lunch wagons (the original food trucks), which catered to mill and factory workers. By the early 1900s, entrepreneurs began converting old railroad cars into diners. Then, two decades later, they began manufacturing sleek steel dining cars. But not all diners are in dining cars. The term also covers restaurants that share a diner-like vibe. Today’s Maine diners haven’t just survived over the years; they’ve adapted while preserving the experience—and wallet-friendly prices—people love. Maine’s oldest diner, the WaCo Diner in Eastport, began in 1924 as a lunch wagon serving the waterfront fishing, sardine-cutting, and shipping industries. Today, the expanded WaCo, which blends the names of original owners Nelson Watts and Ralph Colwell, serves American comfort food inside and on the deck overlooking Passamaquoddy Bay. Like the WaCo, Moody’s Diner began in 1934 as a lunch wagon, albeit one serving the guests staying at the Moody family’s rustic tourist cabins. Later moved to its current Route 1 location and expanded a few times, Moody’s remains
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from top: The breakfast crowd gathers at Biddeford’s Palace Diner, set in a 15-seat 1927 Pollard dining car; hearty fare on Portland’s working waterfront is served up at Becky’s Diner; known for its to-die-for pie, Moody’s Diner in Waldoboro has been a roadside favorite for nearly 90 years.
GRETA RY BUS (PA L ACE); COURTESY OF BECK Y ’S DINER (BECK Y ’S); ACHIM MULTH AUPT/ L A IF/ REDU X ( MOODY ’S)
in the family. It draws from far beyond its Waldoboro location, thanks to Saveur praising its whoopie pies and Gourmet requesting the walnut pie recipe. Made to order in 1946 and elevated by steel girders to street level on Gardiner’s Bridge Street, Worcester Lunch Car Co. #790 has retained its ivory porcelain exterior and classic tiled interior. It went by several names until 1988, when new owners with new menu ideas christened it the A1 Diner. They upgraded the quality and began sourcing ingredients locally long before farm-to-table became a trend. The A1 still offers traditional diner fare—you can get a chili dog for $3.99. But more creative dishes, some vegetarian and many with international accents, now salt the menus and specials. Originally located on Forest Avenue in Portland, the Miss Portland Diner relocated to Marginal Way in 1964 and closed in 2004 when no buyer stepped forward. The owner donated the diner to the city, which sought a buyer. In 2005, while commuting from New Jersey to his New York City job, Portland native and Newsweek executive Tom Manning
perused the Portland Press Herald online. “That morning, I read that the pending deal had fallen through. And somewhere during my walk from 42nd Street to 57th Street, I decided to buy it,” Manning wrote in Newsweek. He left his publishing career, returned to Maine, and then restored, relocated, and reopened the 1949 Worcester Lunch Car Co.’s #818 dining car and added a new dining room. (Author Caron, a corned beef hash aficionado, says the Miss Portland serves the state’s best.) Opened in 1991, Becky’s Diner, is a Portland institution built to serve the city’s working waterfront. Here, fishermen and dock workers plop elbows on the counter next to business types and college kids—and maybe even a barnstorming national politician or a rock star on tour. Owner Becky Rand welcomes all, as well as the tourists, who’ve learned about the diner from news articles and social media. Among the eateries that paved the way for Biddeford’s current foodie renaissance is Palace Diner, which dates back to 1927. Reopened in 2014 by Greg Mitchell and Chad Conley, the 15-seat diner serves diner classics— breakfast plates, burgers, tuna melts, fried chicken—that many swear are the best they’ve ever had. And then there’s Rumford’s Deluxe Diner, closed since the pandemic but actively looking for a new owner. This 1928 Worcester Lunch Car Co. dining car originally arrived by rail, and horses hauled it to its mill town location atop a hand-dug cellar. Sited perpendicular to the street and with a faux brick façade, it often fools passersby. But inside, the Deluxe retains the original sliding door, marble counter, and tile decor. Caron found the Deluxe near the end of her book research, and it remains one of her favorites. She hopes someone who embraces earlymorning hours, slinging hash, and being a community center will bring this classic diner back to life. Maybe that’s you? —Hilary Nangle
HITTING THE SPOT A sampling of timetested diners around the Pine Tree State: A1 Diner, Gardiner:
Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon.–Sat.; brunch Sun. Facebook Becky’s Diner, Portland: Breakfast,
lunch, and dinner seven days a week. beckysdiner.com Brunswick Diner, Brunswick: Breakfast
and lunch Wed.–Sun. brunswickdiner.com Maine Diner, Wells:
Breakfast and lunch daily except Wed. mainediner.com Martha’s Diner, Ellsworth: Breakfast
and lunch daily Wed.– Sun. Facebook Miss Portland Diner, Portland: Breakfast
and lunch daily except Wed. missportland diner.com Moody’s Diner, Waldoboro: Breakfast,
lunch, and dinner seven days a week. moodysdiner.com Palace Diner, Biddeford: Breakfast
and lunch daily Thur.– Mon. palacediner me.com Q Street Diner, South Portland: Breakfast
and lunch Wed.–Sun. qstreetdiner.com WaCo Diner, Eastport:
Breakfast and lunch seven days a week; dinner Sun.–Tue. Facebook
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’TIS THE SEASON From sparkling light shows to joyful performances, Yankee editors share some favorite Maine holiday events.
Country Christmas, Bethel Experience the holiday season in the postcardperfect village of Bethel during this extended celebration featuring horse-drawn wagon rides, a parade, a living Nativity, and more. 11/2612/24; bethelmaine.com Chester Greenwood Day, Farmington Don your best earmuffs in honor of their inventor, Farmington’s own Chester Greenwood, and head downtown for the big parade, gingerbread house contest, polar bear dip, caroling, food and crafts, and historical open houses. 12/3; Facebook Santa Sunday, Newry More than 250 skiers and snowboarders are expected to turn out in full Kris Kringle regalia for Sunday River’s merry community fund-raiser.
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Check the website to learn how to join their ranks, or just show up and enjoy the sight of all those schussing Santas. 12/4; sundayriver.com Mountain Holly Days, Rangeley Load up your shopping bags and fill up on good cheer during this weekend of townwide retail and dining specials and family fun. 12/912/11; rangeleymaine.com
THE MAINE BEACHES Winter Wonders, Eliot One of Maine’s newest light shows returns at Sandy Hill Farm, which boasts displays gleaming with more than a million lights along a mile-long forest trail. 11/23-12/31; sandyhillmaine.com Christmas Prelude, Kennebunkport The biggest holiday bash on the Maine coast returns for its 41st year.
There’s tons for kids— trolley rides, tree lightings, caroling, crafts—and special fun for grownups, too, such as wine and beer tastings and the Fire and Ice gala. Don’t miss Santa’s arrival via lobster boat! [See full story, p. 14.] 12/1-12/11; christmasprelude.com Festival of Lights Parade, York Marching bands and joyfully decorated floats brighten the village streets, while an onlyin-Maine photo op awaits at Cape Neddick, where the famed Nubble Light is illuminated all season long. 12/3; yorkparksandrec.org Christmas by the Sea, Ogunquit From Santa sightings to tree lightings, Ogunquit’s village center is the place to be for the yuletide crowd. Cheer on the town parade, and don’t miss the beach bonfire and fireworks. 12/9-12/11; ogunquit.org
THE KENNEBEC VALLEY Augusta Arts & Crafts Show, Augusta Get a jump-start on your holiday shopping list at this United Maine Craftsmen event spotlighting the wares of 100 Pine Tree State artisans. Still need more handmade treasures? Look for the Brewer and Portland UMC shows later in the season. 11/12-11/13; unitedmaine craftsmen.com 12 Days of Augusta, Augusta The Saturday after Thanksgiving marks the start of three weeks of fun yuletide events around Maine’s capital city. Look for the tree lighting in Market Square, a gingerbread village contest, a fireworks show, kids’ crafts and movies, and lots of appearances by the jolly old elf himself. 11/26–12/17; augustaparksrec.com
M A RINA FRENCH/SUNDAY RI VER
MAINE’S LAKES & MOUNTAINS
Skipping a sleigh in favor of a quad lift, Kris Kringles of all kinds take to the sky at Sunday River’s Santa Sunday.
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Kringleville, Waterville This beloved central Maine tradition sees Santa and Mrs. Claus greeting families on weekends throughout the season in their magical little cabin on Castonguay Square. Waterville visitors should also mark their calendar for the annual Festival of Lights parade (11/26) from Winslow to Waterville. kringleville.org SKOW-Whoville, Skowhegan Inspired by the Dr. Seuss classic How the Grinch Stole Christmas!, this delightful downtown party kicks off with the annual holiday parade on Friday night, while Saturday will be filled with Grinch-y themed activities for the whole
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family, including an ugly sweater contest, Grinch ornament making, and a Grinch story walk. 12/212/3; skow-whoville.org
THE MAINE HIGHLANDS Festival of Lights, Bangor Downtown Bangor is transformed into a glittering display by the Bangor Rotary Club’s annual Festival of Lights Parade, which culminates in the traditional tree lighting in West Market Square. The city’s sparkle is brightened even more by a community lighting event that invites the public to drive by the individual displays of area homes and organizations
all season long. 12/3; bangorrotary.org Hometown Holidays and Parade, Dover-Foxcroft Santa’s elves are still putting the details together for the 2022 event—which in the past has included wagon rides, a living Nativity, and caroling—but you can definitely count on experiencing the lovely Festival of Lights Parade and a visit from Santa and Mrs. Claus. 12/3; piscataquischamber.com Wabanaki Winter Market, Orono A signature holiday event sponsored by the UMaine Hudson Museum and the Maine Indian Basketmakers Alliance,
this market offers the chance to purchase Wabanaki woven baskets and other crafts directly from the makers—both nationally recognized and emerging artists—and to learn about these ancient traditions. 12/10; umaine .edu/hudsonmuseum
AROOSTOOK COUNTY Holiday Arts & Craft Fair, Fort Kent The weekend after Thanksgiving is a bustling one in Fort Kent, as it hosts the 42nd annual Arts & Crafts Fair—a great event for stocking up on holiday gifts. Also, families won’t want to miss Saturday’s visit from Santa and tree lighting
ERIC J. TAUBERT (OGUNQUIT); NELSON P. JEWELL / DREA MSTIME.COM (BA NGOR)
Striking up the band at Ogunquit’s Christmas by the Sea celebration.
Downtown Bangor all aglow for the Festival of Lights.
at the Tides Institute & Museum of Art. An hour later an eight-foot sardine descends with the countdown to midnight, and the playing of “Auld Lang Syne.” 12/31; tidesinstitute.org
MIDCOAST & ISLANDS Boothbay Lights, Boothbay & Boothbay Harbor Held alongside Maine’s largest light show— Gardens Aglow at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens—this seasonlong celebration offers everything from a parade and fireworks to “North Pole Express” train rides. 11/19–12/31; boothbaylights.com at the Fort Kent Public Library. Fair 11/26-11/27, tree lighting 11/26; fortkentchamber.com Holiday Light Parade, Presque Isle Nothing says Christmas in the County like this Aroostook tradition, now in its 33rd year. Spectators can enjoy music, floats, and hot chocolate as the parade steps off from the UMPI campus and makes its merry way to Main Street. 12/3; centralaroostook chamber.com Victorian Christmas at the Estey, Presque Isle Immerse yourself in the holidays of yesteryear at the 1875 Vera Estey House Museum, decked out with handmade
decorations and staffed with interpreters in period costume. Sample wassail, listen to Victorian carols, and taste a peppermint pig! 12/912/10; pihistory.org
DOWNEAST & ACADIA Village Holidays, Bar Harbor Get ready with hot cocoa, cookies, and seasonal tunes before Santa arrives to help light the town Christmas tree and offer a reading of “’Twas the Night Before Christmas.” After enjoying good cheer with friends and family at the MDI YMCA, take care of your gift-shopping as stores stay open late. 12/2; visitbarharbor.com
Christmas in Ellsworth, Ellsworth There’s a lot going on this season in the city known as “the Gateway to DownEast.” After the tree lighting at City Hall (11/26), look for the “Christmas at the Movies”–themed parade (12/3), A Musical Christmas Carol at The Grand (12/9-12/18), and more. Check the website for more details: christmasinellsworth.com The Great Sardine & Maple Leaf Drop, Eastport Ring in the New Year twice during this evening of only-in-Maine fun. At 11 p.m. (midnight Atlantic time), a brass band plays “O, Canada” to accompany the dropping of a 4-foot maple leaf
An Old-Fashioned Christmas, Bath Commencing the yuletide revelry just after Thanksgiving with a tree lighting and a visit from Santa, Bath carries the holiday spirit into December during two weeks of special events, including the much-anticipated return of trolley caroling. 11/2612/10; visitbath.com Christmas by the Sea, Camden One of the biggest and most popular holiday events in the area checks all the boxes: tree lighting in Harbor Park, carolers, carriage rides, a visit from Santa, and a wow-worthy parade. 12/2-12/4; camdenmaine experience.com VisitMaine.com
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The spectacle of Gardens Aglow at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, in Boothbay.
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MAINE GUIDE Winter
M A RK FLEMING (GA RDENS AGLOW ); COURTESY OF M A INE STATE BA LLET (NUTCRACKER)
Maine State Ballet’s The Nutcracker.
GREATER PORTLAND & CASCO BAY
its namesake best-selling storybook, The Polar Express. 11/25-12/23; mainenarrowgauge.org
Northern Lights/ Sparkle Celebration, Freeport Visitors to the shopping mecca of Freeport get a festive two-for-one deal: L.L. Bean dresses up its campus for Northern Lights (11/18-1/1), then the town’s Sparkle Celebration (12/2-12/11) adds a Parade of Lights and delightful diversions galore. llbean.com; visitfreeport.com
The Nutcracker, Portland The classic production by the Maine State Ballet brings the beauty and joy of the season to Merrill Auditorium. 11/25–12/4; mainestateballet.org Equally enchanting is Portland Ballet’s version, A Victorian Nutcracker, with performances in Sanford, Westbrook, and Portland. 12/10-12/23; portlandballet.org
The Polar Express Train Rides, Portland The largest annual fund-raiser for the Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad Co. & Museum invites children of all ages to take a magical train ride right out of the pages of
Monument Square Tree Lighting, Portland Enjoy an evening of entertainment in the heart of downtown as Portland officially kicks off the holiday season. There will be live music, ice carving,
a soccer watch party, and more, all leading up to the magical lighting of the Monument Square tree. 11/25; portlandmaine.com Christmas at Victoria Mansion, Portland Seeing this lavish 1860 Italianate mansion decked out for the holidays is a don’tmiss experience for Portland visitors. Special ticketed events include ballet performances and a Charles Dickens reading. 11/25-1/8; victoriamansion.org Portland Symphony Orchestra’s “Magic of Christmas,” Portland Continuing a beloved 43year tradition, conductor Eckart Preu leads the PSO and special guests in a performance of holiday tunes new
and old, including the ever-popular “Sleigh Ride.” 12/9-12/18; portlandsymphony.org Christmas with Kennerly, Portland James Kennerly, the city’s official municipal organist, performs Christmas favorites on the c. 1911 Kotzschmar Organ, one of the grandest and most celebrated pipe organs in the world. 12/9; foko.org Portland Harbor Parade of Lights, Portland Catch twice the twinkle as a fleet of illuminated boats cast their glittering reflections on the harbor. Viewers can grab a seat on the shoreline or head out on the water with Casco Bay Lines. 12/10; visitportland.com; cascobaylines.com VisitMaine.com
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MAINE GUIDE Winter
FUN RUN S
opposite:
At the U.S. National Toboggan Championships in Camden, a two-person team hurtles down the Jack Williams Toboggan Chute. A time-honored fixture at the Camden Snow Bowl, the 400-foot chute is two feet wide and has a vertical drop of more than 70 feet, propelling toboggans at speeds of up to 45 mph before they finally come to rest on the icy expanse of Hosmer Pond.
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itting in a borrowed sled atop the toboggan chute at the Camden Snow Bowl, I had a sudden moment of doubt. It was a Friday afternoon in mid-February, the opening day of the weekend-long U.S. National Toboggan Championships, and in a matter of hours this area would be open to daring sledders from around the country. Until then, however, anyone with the gumption to climb the hill to the starting platform could sample the glory. Was I up to it? “Hold on,” I shouted to chute master Stuart Young, who was gripping the release lever. “Maybe we shouldn’t do this.” Then I heard the voice of my 11-year-old son, seated in front of me. “Come on, Dad,” he implored. “Let’s go!” I locked eyes with Young and meekly returned his grin. “Yeah, Dad,” Young echoed, releasing the gate, “let’s go!” And with that, the front of our sled dropped down onto the chute and we were off. My son screamed with delight. If there is a center point in the toboggan world, it is the Camden Snow Bowl, home to the Jack Williams Toboggan Chute. This 400-foot wooden run first opened in 1936 and is still considered the longest of its kind in the country. To the uninitiated, its features are both simple and daunting: a steep drop and then a long, icy straightaway that spills out onto a frozen Hosmer Pond. It’s not unusual for sleds to top 45 mph by the time they hit the pond. “Sometimes you get two trips in one,” says Young, a Camden native whose
Maine Winter Guide 2022
father helmed the rebuilding of the chute in the 1960s. “You have the chute run, and then when you get out on a lake, you can have a whole other run.” The fastest times are clocked at the U.S. National Toboggan Championships, an annual event that began here in 1991. Despite the race’s grand title, the barrier to actually becoming one of the 400 teams to compete is low: Your sled must be made of wood, and you need to meet certain size and weight restrictions. Otherwise, pay the entry fee, and you’ll get a bib number. While the race does attract serious competitors who’ve worked all year on their sleds, the weekend also serves up plenty of fun, too. There’s tailgating on the pond, live music, and a costume parade. Maybe you’ll see a team clad in Snoopy outfits, or dressed as the Golden Girls. Overall, it’s a scene that’s hard to resist. “It’s kind of an insidious thing that we’ve got going here,” laughs Holly Anderson, the Snow Bowl’s assistant director and co-chair of the toboggan championships organizing committee. “We make it so fun that people want to get on that chute and try it out.” My son and I got a taste of that as our sled hit the straightaway. Our speedy descent gave way to a gentle finish that just barely brought us to the pond, yet as we coasted by the timer’s station, the onlookers clapped. And, like many a tobogganer before me, I felt certain thoughts begin to percolate. Maybe, just maybe, I mused, we’d race in this event one day ourselves. —Ian Aldrich
M A RK FLEMING
The nation’s only wooden toboggan chute is still delivering big-time thrills in Camden.
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