The Old Farmer's Almanac 2025 Garden Guide by Yankee Magazine

AMBROSIA SWEET CORN

SAN MARZANO TOMATO

RED RUSSIAN KALE

Once in a while, you’ve got to leave your garden— here are 24 reasons for a road trip!

Try these “blue ribbon” plants to create serene

Don’t go out on a limb . . . use expert advice when choosing a tree

When cold weather moves in, make room for your favorite container plants

HOW TO BE AN AIRHEAD

120 TOOLS OF THE TRADE MUST-HAVES TO RAISE YOUR GROWING GAME

GARDENING TRENDS GARDENS REVIVE AND THRIVE IN 2025!

We are seeking novel plants, new growing spaces, and more ways to walk on the wild side

Weekenders, newbies, and brown thumbs, listen up—have we got a houseplant for you!

ARE YOU A SMARTYPLANTS?

Take this quiz to find out how much you know about your potted pals

A farmer lends her Filipino heritage to a colorful enterprise

GARDEN WISDOM THESE HACKS ARE WHACK!

What the cards can tell you about your garden and yourself

THE OLD FARMER’S ALMANAC

Garden Guide

Publisher: Sherin Pierce

Editor: Carol Connare

Creative Director: Colleen Quinnell

Managing Editor: Sarah Perreault

Executive Editor: Heidi Stonehill

Copy Editors: Jack Burnett, Cate Hewitt

Associate Editors: Joe Bills, Tim Goodwin

V.P., New Media and Production: Paul Belliveau

Production Director: David Ziarnowski

Production Manager: Brian Johnson

Senior Production Artists: Jennifer Freeman, Rachel Kipka

Senior Ad Production Coordinator: Janet Selle

ALMANAC.COM

Executive Digital Editor: Catherine Boeckmann

Digital Editor: Jennifer Keating

Senior Web Designer: Amy O’Brien

Digital Manager: Holly Sanderson

E-mail Marketing Manager: Eric Bailey

Digital Marketing Specialist: Jessica Garcia

E-commerce Director: Alan Henning

E-commerce Merchandiser Specialist: Nicole Melanson

Customer Retention Marketer: Kalibb Vaillancourt

Senior Drupal Developer: Mark Gordon

ADVERTISING

Almanac.com /AdvertisingInfo Stephanie Bernbach-Crowe, 914-827-0015 • stephanie@rbadvertisingreps.com Steve Hall, 800-736-1100, ext. 320 • steveh@yankeepub.com

PUBLIC RELATIONS

Vaughan Communications, Ginger Vaughan, 360-620-9107 • ginger@vaughancomm.com

RETAIL SALES: 800-895-9265

Direct/Retail Sales Manager: Stacey Korpi, ext. 160 • staceyk@yankeepub.com Sales Coordinator: Janice Edson, ext. 126 • janicee@yankeepub.com For U.S. orders only, go to Almanac.com/Shop or call 800-256-2622, option #2. For Canada orders, visit Amazon.ca.

DISTRIBUTORS

National: Comag Marketing Group, Smyrna, GA Newsstand Consultant: PSCS Consulting, Linda Ruth, 603-924-4407

We welcome your questions and comments about this magazine. Mail them to Editor, The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Guide, P.O. Box 520, Dublin, NH 03444-0520. Contact us by phone at 603-563-8111, by fax at 603-563-8252, or through Almanac.com/Contact. Research assistance provided by American Horticultural Society publications and university cooperative extensions.

YANKEE PUBLISHING INC.

President: Jamie Trowbridge

Vice Presidents: Paul Belliveau, Ernesto Burden, Judson D. Hale Jr., Brook Holmberg, Jennie Meister, Sherin Pierce

PRINTED IN U.S.A.

Thank you for buying this Garden Guide! We hope you find its garden wisdom useful and its pages entertaining. Thanks, also, to everyone who had a hand in its creation, including advertisers, distributors, printer, and sales and delivery people.

THE NATURE OF NURTURING

COME FORTH INTO THE LIGHT OF THINGS, LET NATURE BE YOUR TEACHER.

–William Wordsworth, English poet (1770–1850), in “The Tables Turned”

The notion of nature versus nurture—the effect of innate biology on human development versus the impact of lived experiences— can also pertain to our beloved plants. Like humans, plants emerge with given genetics and then are shaped by growing conditions. Depending on the mix of environment and heritage, a plant will survive, thrive, or go back to the earth. There’s a sweet spot where nurturing and nature are in harmony; the best gardens are thoughtfully styled— and a little bit wild.

In our growing, we sometimes allow nature to take its course, such as letting lawns grow for pollinators or leaving spent seed heads and grasses uncut to provide winter habitat for wildlife. The work of nurturing is also in our hands—potting, pruning, dividing, grafting, planting, watering, turning pots toward the light, and deterring pests and predators. Mingled

together, vignettes of chaos and cultivation provide places of joy and wonder.

This edition of the Garden Guide invites you to nurture your true nature and take a walk on the (slightly) wild side. We’ve filled these pages with tips, ideas, plans, and personalities to get you into the flow this gardening season. From a cutting garden for beginners and what to bring inside for the winter from your parade of “annual” pots, to vertical vegetables and trees, including a few fit for a food forest (hint, maybe it’s time to shell out for some nut trees), we’ve gathered oodles of ideas for nurturing the natural world.

Whether you pilgrimage to iconic gardens for ideas and inspiration, or journey inward, exploring chakras and tarot, every moment out of doors invites the wisdom of nature into your life.

In nurturing our plant neighbors, we grow, too.

–Carol Connare

GARDENS REVIVE AND THRIVE IN 2025!

We are seeking novel plants, new growing spaces, and more ways to walk on the wild side

COMPILED BY STACEY KUSTERBECK

WELCOME WILDLIFE

GROWING POSITIVITY

People realize that gardens hold a lot of power—to provide food, beauty, and respite—and, in the bigger picture, to positively impact the world around us. “Gardeners are adjusting their plant selections to create a palette that provides food and habitat for animals and insects throughout the whole year,” says Tess Kuracina, director of living collections and curator of herbaceous collections at New York Botanical Garden.

Gardeners are making decisions with wildlife in mind. Adding native plants is one important change. “This provides resources for local insects, birds, and mammals,” says Uli Lorimer, director of horticulture at Native Plant Trust in Massachusetts.

Gardeners are specifically choosing plants that allow butterflies to lay eggs and nourish young caterpillars—such as MILKWEED, the only plant where a monarch will lay her eggs. “We’ll see more green thumbs adding host plants for their region’s butterflies,” predicts Tara Nolan, an Ontario, Canada-based gardening expert and co-owner of SavvyGardening.com.

HAVE PLANTS? WE’LL TRAVEL!

Garden tourism is booming, with almost half of garden visits resulting in overnight stays. Top Canadian gardens worth the trip, according to the Canadian Garden Council, are:

1. ANNAPOLIS ROYAL HISTORIC GARDENS, Nova Scotia

International Peace Garden, Manitoba 3. Montreal Botanical Garden, Quebec

THE MESSAGE HAS BEEN HEARD REGARDING THE LOSS OF BEES AND OTHER POLLINATORS, AND PEOPLE ARE USING THEIR BACKYARDS TO HELP.

—Steve Reiners, professor of horticulture, Cornell University

RIGHT SIDE OF THE BEDS

Gardeners love raised beds more than ever—and are replacing wooden versions with more durable metal stock tanks (typically used for watering livestock) that are available from farm stores and some home centers.

“Many gardeners, including me, are tired of constructing wood-sided raised beds that deteriorate over the years. Stock tanks are perfect for growing tomatoes, peppers, squashes, and other popular vegetables. Add a trellis and they work great for peas, beans, and berries,” says Randy Schultz, founder and content editor of HomeGardenandHomestead.com.

The sides of a raised bed should be at least 6 inches tall and about as wide as you can reach halfway across—probably 5 or 6 feet. “Beds can be as long as you have space for—it’s the width you want to pay attention to. The idea is that once you fill them up with soil, you won’t be standing in them— you’ll be working the beds from the sides,” says Bob Westerfield, a fruit and vegetable specialist at the University of Georgia’s horticultural department.

WHAT WE’RE GROWING . . .

■ “ASPARAGUS is one of the few perennial vegetables; and once you get it established, it can last for 50 years,” says Westerfield. Top choices for asparagus lovers: ‘Jersey Night’ and ‘Jersey Supreme’.

■ MUSHROOMS. “People buy spawn and grow on logs or in containers in basements,” says Steve Reiners.

■ “NEW” VEGETABLES (in other words, plants not typically grown in North American gardens).

“People from around the world are bringing their traditional veggies with them. And with our warming climate, many crops that need hot summer temps are doing well even in the northern U.S.,” says Reiners.

■ PLANTS THAT GLOW at night.

The Firefly Petunia, bred with bioluminescent mushroom DNA, emits a faint green glow in the dark. (continued)

GARDENING TRENDS

DECIDEDLY DIY

“A more do-it-yourself type of attitude seems to have evolved on the vegetable side of things,” says Westerfield. Handy growers are:

■ Setting up simple DRIP IRRIGATION SYSTEMS, which deliver water right to the plant’s root system, in contrast to inefficient overhead watering. “It’s a little work up front, but probably uses 2/3 less water. And not watering the foliage decreases the potential for disease,” says Westerfield.

■ Protecting plants from pests by building frames made of PVC or wood and growing plants (such as squashes) under netting. Normally, squashes need to be pollinated by insects—but in order to grow plants under a cover, gardeners must take on the role of pollinators. How? Westerfield explains, “On a daily basis, they are taking pollen from the male blooms and swirling it into the female blooms.”

■ Setting up homemade HYDROPONIC SYSTEMS. Westerfield grows lettuce and Swiss chard in his office, using plastic storage tubs, a grower’s light, and inexpensive air diffusers (like those used in fish tanks) to circulate the water. “It’s kind of an easy thing. Most people are under the misconception that you need soil to grow vegetables, and that’s not true. You need light, water, and nutrition, but you don’t need soil,” he says.

■ Using metal posts (found at feed stores) to grow plants vertically. Fancy trellises aren’t necessary to train plants (cucumbers, melons, and acorn and butternut squashes) to grow upwards. Westerfield advises, “Anything that you could potentially get off the ground would be ideal. It’s much easier to harvest—and it’s much healthier for the plant.”

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE VASE

Gardeners are dedicating space specifically for cut flowers, says Aaron Steil, consumer horticulture extension specialist at Iowa State University Extension and Outreach. These blooms are destined for display in vases:

■ Tried-and-true favorites for flower bouquets, such as zinnias, SUNFLOWERS, and snapdragons

■ Blooms not often seen at the florist, like cosmos, bells of Ireland, and sweet pea

Gardeners without funds or space for additional plants are creating floral arrangements using plants already in their landscape. “You don't have to devote an area to plant rows of dahlias to have beautiful flowers in your home,” advises Steil. “Many enjoy the seasonality of harvesting cut flowers from the yard—daffodils in April, PEONIES in May, and roses in June, for example.”

BUSINESS IS BLOOMING

Gardeners are producing lots of blooms, even in small plots, and making a side business out of it. Some growers sell to farmers’ markets, floral designers, or flower shops; others sell direct to consumers with bouquet subscriptions. Savvy flower farmers are extending the growing season by planting cold-hardy plants in fall, protecting them with high tunnels in winter, and harvesting blooms in early spring. —Dan Fillius, field specialist of horticulture, Iowa State University (continued on page 14)

•

Chicken Soup

I have developed the world’s best soil nutrient!

David G.

David G. Verified Buyer

NUTRITIONAL CONTENT.

One of God’s greatest gifts to me is a tremendous curiosity and love for the soil. My formal and informal education have taught me so much about soil types, structure, physics, chemistry, and biology. All life on this Earth comes from the soil, water, and sun. Most disease comes from an imbalanced soil. the advent of chemical fertilizers and genetic engineering (byproducts of the two World Wars), industry has focused only on greater yields and has neglected the most important part of our foods and feeds:

Verified Buyer

Verified Buyer

5.0 star rating 08/16/20

Our overuse of chemical fertilizers and pesticides has imbalanced our soils, killed the micro life, and depleted what is most critical to life: minerals and trace minerals. My research has shown that soils and plants need those missing nutrients to per . Soils respond to my product like a sick child responds to chicken soup, so I’ve named this product Chicken Soup for the Soil®. Now it is true that other companies have blended quality additives for the soil, amino acids, ancient seabed deposits, sea solids, soluble seaweed, organic acids like humic and fulvic, alfalfa, and other herbal extracts. However, the most important factor of our product is a discovery I made while blending these ingredients …

I made a serendipitous discovery of how to react these individual ingredients into an homogenous product that will not wash out of the soil. We call the tiniest colloidal droplets of Chicken Soup

Dr. JimZ Chicken Soup really helped my garden. I’m glad I tried this. Even with very dry conditions for weeks I was able to get a nice harvest.

Ginnie Y.

I made a serendipitous discovery of how to react these individual ingredients into an homogenous will not wash out of the soil. We call the tiniest colloidal droplets of Chicken Soup “micro clusters.” We don’t call our product organic or natural, although it is carbon bound (which is the true definition of organic) and all of our ingredients are naturally sourced. We call it “biologically our product stimulates the life in the soil and supplies all the nutrients commercial .

Ginnie Y. Verified Buyer

“micro clusters.” We don’t call our product organic or natural, although it is carbon bound (which is the true definition of organic) and all of our ingredients are naturally sourced. We call it “biologically correct” because our product stimulates the life in the soil and supplies all the nutrients commercial

I made a serendipitous discovery of how to react these individual ingredients into an homogenous product that will not wash out of the soil. We call the tiniest colloidal droplets of Chicken Soup “micro clusters.” We don’t call our product organic or natural, although it is carbon bound (which is the true definition of organic) and all of our ingredients are naturally sourced. We call it “biologically correct” because our product stimulates the life in the soil and supplies all the nutrients commercial .

Ginnie Y. Verified Buyer

Verified Buyer

5.0 star rating 08/07/20

Love it!!

A healthier soil ecosystem will help you grow higher-quality crops that have more color, better taste, less disease and bug infestations, a longer shelf life, and increased nutritional value. Chicken Soup for the Soil® is non-leaching, non-toxic, and contains everything the soil microbes need to proliferate and feed the plant. There is nothing else like it.

Our factory in Idaho has the ability and capacity to manufacture this product in quantities for agriculture and packaging capability for the home and garden markets. Watch for it at your local home and garden store or contact us on our website, DrJimZ.com. You will not regret it.

Thank you for your business!

Great Alternative To Synthetic Nitrogen…

Great Alternative To Synthetic Nitrogen… Save Money & Improve Your Soil!

Save Money & Improve Your Soil!

Jim Zamzow

Jim Zamzow

Great Alternative To Synthetic Nitrogen… Save Money & Improve Your Soil!

Kathy C.

Kathy C. Verified Buyer

Chicken Soup

Verified Buyer

Kathy C. Verified Buyer

5.0 star rating 05/27/22

Plant happiness

Plant happiness This stuff is great! Really improves my soil and plants are so healthy after I use it!

I absolutely love this product! My plants looked so healthy and happy! Also a little goes a long way . I have used this year on my summer garden and still have enough for my winter garden.

Review by Jeffrey B. on June 14, 2020

So much life in the live in the desert and it can be extremely challenging growing anything. I started using Dr. Jim’s on my trees and garden and have noticed a profound difference n the growth rate and . My garden is happy and full of life even when s scorching hot. I will cont. to use these products as I think they

GARDENING TRENDS

BEE-UTIFUL

People are adding flowering pollinator plants into vegetable gardens. “The message has been heard regarding the loss of bees and other pollinators, and people are using their backyards to help,” says Reiners.

Gardeners are creating “pollinator edible” gardens, says Schultz, by mixing flowering ornamental plants into and alongside vegetable plots. “MARIGOLDS might just be the best companion plant ever for a vegetable garden, since these flowers not only attract pollinators but also repel insect pests,” says Schultz. Other good matches: nasturtiums and squashes, zinnias and tomatoes, calendula and eggplants.

There’s growing awareness that edible plants need pollinators to thrive. “Our theme is ‘Support the Hive in 2025.’ We will highlight our native vegetables and fruit that need pollinators in order to produce (squashes and pumpkins) and beans (scarlet runners, navy, and pintos),” reports Sandy Merrill of NE Seed in Connecticut. New from NE Seed: ‘Butterkin’ squash, ‘Speckled’ Roman tomato, ‘Jimmy Nardello’ Italian sweet pepper.

COMPANION GARDENING

Gardeners are making local connections online and turning them into in-person groups at local libraries, garden centers, or members’ homes.

Members come up with hot topics for upcoming meetings and invite growers to join in with questions, plants, or seeds to share. Some take field trips to local public gardens or nurseries; others focus on specific skills such as growing houseplants or vegetables.

–C.L. Fornari, founder of GardenLady.com

KNOW AND GROW LOCAL

Native plants have been a trend for some time, and it’s continuing apace. “We see no signs of this slowing down. People are starting to dig a little deeper, wanting more information,” says Sharon Yiesla, plant knowledge specialist at The Morton Arboretum in Illinois.

Gardeners want specifics about native plants and the insects that pollinate them— gathering information from knowledgeable horticulturalists at independent nurseries and garden centers that sell native plants. A main concern, says Lorimer: Are the plants grown locally? And if not, how far away?

SEEDING THE POINT

University of Florida researchers are working with vegetable growers to teach them how to save seeds from the best plants. “Seed savers don’t just save money—— they also save important characteristics of plants that can thrive in the heat of summer, defend themselves against pests, and bring plenty of flavor to the table,” says Danielle Treadwell, PhD, associate professor in the horticultural sciences department. (continued)

GARDENING TRENDS

STILL HOT FOR HOUSEPLANTS

At the Morton Arboretum’s Plant Clinic, horticulturists are fielding more houseplant questions than ever. “Houseplants are still going strong. We expected it to slow down, but we are seeing the opposite,” reports Yiesla.

Indoor gardeners are discovering new varieties of philodendrons, ferns, and anthuriums to liven up porches, homes, and offices. “People are actively seeking out different color morphs and variegation patterns to enhance their houseplant collections,” says Wendy Wilber, statewide program coordinator for University of Florida’s Master Gardener Program. ‘Pink Princess’ and ‘Ring of Fire’ philodendrons and ‘THAI CONSTELLATION’ MONSTERA were previously hard to find and expensive. “But due to their popularity, they are more available and the price has gone down,” reports Wilber.

TOIL FOR THE SOIL

Gardeners are devoting more time and resources to improving their soil. “For example, amendments such as compost and biochar can increase the quantity and diversity of beneficial microbiota and reduce compaction, which in turn helps to improve plant health and vigor,” says Kuracina.

Another strategy is to plant CLOVER, BUCKWHEAT, or mustards in order to add organic matter and recycle soil nutrients. “There is great interest in using cover crops in garden beds between plantings,” says Reiners.

FRUITFUL ENDEAVORS

First-time fruit growers are increasing in number. “They want to have very fresh fruit, and they want to know how it has been grown,” says Yiesla. Most popular: “traditional” fruits (apples, peaches, and cherries), raspberries, figs, and blueberries. Fruit is a new challenge for some gardeners. For this group, Andrew Bunting, vice president of horticulture at Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, suggests native pawpaw (Asimina triloba) or compact plants from Bushel and Berry (BLACKBERRIES, BLUEBERRIES, raspberries, and STRAWBERRIES ).

COLORFUL CHARACTERS

Growers are wowing us with vibrant hues—— especially bold neon colors, pink and orange monochromatic palettes, and color blocking. People are creating these color statements with CANNAS, marigolds, celosia, petunias, and pelargoniums. “These design choices are an excellent way to infuse your garden with bold pops of color that add interest,” says Bunting.

GARDENING TRENDS

GREENER SCREENS

Instead of traditional fencing made of wood or vinyl, people are using plants—for beauty, privacy, and to provide habitat and shelter for small birds and mammals. There’s also a cost savings. “While a standard privacy fence installation can cost around $2,500 for a 50-foot span, a living fence might only cost between $150 and $500,” says Katie Dubow, president of Garden Media Group.

Large-scale “living screens” can block unsightly elements such as trash cans or junk piles. “The goal is to replicate patterns seen in nature, to create year-round privacy,” says Celeste Scott, the Western

Region horticulture specialist at University of Tennessee Extension. There’s a significant cost savings for gardeners willing to start with smaller plants and allow time for them to fill in, adds Scott. The steps to take:

1. Start with evergreens, with conifers planted in varying depths, avoiding straight lines.

2. Fill in the gaps with smaller evergreen shrubs.

3. Add in flowering shrubs and accent plants.

“Living screens will take several years to fill out, so avoid the temptation to overplant. Allow plants the space they need to grow,” Scott advises.

LAWNS GONE WILD

“We’re seeing a lot of interest in ecological gardening practices,” reports Grace Elton, CEO of New England Botanic Garden at Tower Hill in Massachusetts. Gardeners are finding ways to recreate ecosystems and patterns found in nature to provide habitat for beneficial insects and wildlife, including reducing the size of traditional lawns, using peat-free potting mixes, and scaling back fall cleanups to allow leaves and dry stems to serve as habitat. Another method is to build a “beneficial border” by layering plants and branches to form a low wall along property edges, reducing lawn space. “This creates an intentional transition to wilder edges along property lines or between neighboring homes,” says Elton.

CERTIFIED

DO-GOODERS

Gardeners are working to support wildlife. Some are obtaining ecological certifications to display, demonstrating their commitment to passersby and with the hope of inspiring others to also do so. “It can be an exciting accolade to work towards,” says Bunting. Must-have certifications: Certified Wildlife Habitat (from National Wildlife Federation); Monarch Waystation (from Monarch Watch).

FORAGED FLOWERS

People are gathering flowers, plants, and branches from their yards and nearby natural spaces (fields and alongside roadways) to create unconventional arrangements. A foraged bouquet features: cultivated flowers (such as dahlias or roses); items found in nature (dried seed heads, interesting twigs, or lichens); greens (ferns, evergreens, or deciduous tree branches); and even weeds (garlic mustard or milk thistle). This trend is driven by a desire for local fresh flowers and for a closer connection with nature.

–Ace Berry, Oasis Forage Products (continued)

GARDENING TRENDS

TOUGH-ENOUGH PLANTS

Gardeners are tired of losing plants after heavy—or insufficient—rainfall and are looking for plants that can withstand either. To find the best bets, observe your garden after downpours and during droughts, advises Elton.

If gardens dry out between rains, plant milkweed, aster, CONEFLOWER, bluestar, and bee balm; also try native grasses (little bluestem, prairie dropseed, or purple lovegrass).

If gardens retain moisture, plant native ferns (ostrich fern, marginal wood fern, CINNAMON FERN ) and herbaceous perennials (rose milkweed, spotted Joe Pye weed, ironweed).

TAKING THE PLUNGE

Aquatic gardening is gaining in popularity, and it can be done easily in a small area, says Robert Anderson, horticulture exhibits and displays team supervisor at U.S. Botanic Garden. Natural swimming pools, with planted marginal borders, offer an alternative to traditional chemically-treated pools. “While up-front cost is greater, the long-term cost tends to be less, as they are not reliant on continual chemical treatments to keep them running,” says Anderson.

TROPICAL DELIGHTS

“Caladiums have seen a huge resurgence in recent years,” says Diane Blazek, executive director of the National Garden Bureau. Partly due to their versatility, partly due to their stunning leaves and many color variations, caladiums are go-to plants for any garden. In cooler climates, they’re used as annuals in windowboxes, in container combinations, or as bedding plants; they can be dug up in the fall and stored over the winter. In-demand varieties: ‘Red Ruffles’, ‘WHITE QUEEN’, ‘Gingerland’, and Proven Winners’ Heart to Heart series.

NAME THAT GROWER

“Urban farmers” is how some new gardeners like to refer to themselves. “It seems as though the term ‘gardening’ is passé or implies work, whereas ‘urban farming’ is young and hip and implies self-sufficiency by growing your own food in areas previously thought to be nonproductive,” Blazek explains (e.g., parking lots, abandoned buildings, rooftops, etc.). (continued)

GARDENING TRENDS

AND THE AWARD GOES TO . . .

These vegetable varieties were named All-America Selections winners for demonstrating superior garden performance, according to a panel of expert judges:

■ ‘PURPLE MAGIC’ broccoli is easy to grow and sweeter—and more tender— than traditional green broccoli.

■ ‘SKYTREE’ broccoli boasts tender florets, upright stems, and compact heads—and it performs well, even in the heat.

■ ‘RED IMPACT’ peppers are large, sweet, and high yielding.

THE MORE, THE MERRIER

The estimated 11.4 million U.S. households (about 81%) engaged in gardening are becoming more diverse: In 2023, a significantly higher number of Hispanic, Asian, and Black households participated in gardening than in previous years.

–2024 National Gardening Survey

MULTITASKING BLOOMS

■ To dine on: ‘KEY LIME PIE BLEND’ zinnia’s edible petals in white or lime green

■ To include in bouquets: ‘KING SIZE SILVERY ROSE’ strawflower—tall and resilient, with blooms in silvery-rose hues

■ To tolerate drought: ‘LAVENDER LADY’ gomphrena, a pollinator attractor (once established) with papery lavender blooms; lacy phacelia, a cover crop with bell-shape violet flowers

■ For a “wow” factor: ‘Sweet Rose Magic’ sweet William—flowers open white, transform gradually to pink, and mature to a deep rose color; ‘BROKEN COLORS’ four o’clock—mottled and bicolored tubular flowers in pink, white, red, rose, and yellow

■ To attract hummingbirds: ‘TOM THUMB BLEND’ balsam, an array of flowers in violet, salmon, white, rose, and scarlet; ‘Cherry Caramel’ phlox, caramel-colored flowers with cherry-red centers ■ –Botanical Interests

20 The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Guide Photos left, top to bottom: Johnny’s Selected Seeds; All-America Selections; All-America Selections. Photos right, top to bottom: Anna Frank/Getty Images; Starfish Honey; Select Seeds; Outside Pride; Amazon; Applewood Seed Company

Stacey Kusterbeck is a frequent contributor to Almanac products.

“I now feel I’m able to help maintain a healthy blood pressure.”

– Satisfied customer

Trusted by the Amish–Available to You: Blo-Pres for Healthy Blood Pressure

Like many, the Amish are concerned about their blood pressure and what it means for their overall health.

And for good reason: 68 million Americans—one in every three U.S. adults—suffer with high blood pressure.

But there’s new hope.

Promising research has shown that several vitamins and herbs can help maintain a healthy blood pressure.

The Amish prefer health solutions that are more natural.

And over the last several years, thousands of Amish have chosen Blo-Pres as a way to help maintain healthy blood pressure.

A SUPER Combination of Ingredients!

Blo-Pres is made with eight vitamins and herbs specifically selected for their nutritional support of normal blood pressure levels, based on research.

Scott Adams, head of product research, says, “A lot of evaluation was done over a long period prior to the development of Blo-Pres. Our staff reviewed many studies and research papers when it came to these ingredients and the help they could bring to those who are concerned about their blood pressure.”

Importantly, Blo-Pres is formulated with a commitment to minimize known side effects, striving for a balance between efficacy and comfort.

Within each Blo-Pres capsule are eight key ingredients: Vitamin C, Niacin, Folate, Garlic Powder, Hibiscus Flower Powder, Olive Leaf, Hawthorn Extract, and Green Tea Leaf (decaffeinated).

This is a potent combination that offers new help maintaining a healthy blood pressure.

Doctor-Recommended!

“Hypertension is one of the most common health conditions effecting people worldwide: it significantly increases the risk of cardiovascular disease and drives the mortality rates.

The specialized formula in Blo-Pres uses a carefully chosen, unique combination of vitamins and herbal ingredients.

These ingredients help reduce inflammation, optimize the cholesterol level in the blood, and promote the relaxation of blood vessels. Blo-Pres is a powerful tool to help maintain healthy blood pressure.”

–Dr. Denys Tsveiuk MD, Integrative Medicine Practitioner, Nutritionist

Many Happy Customers!

“I am glad I tried these because they make me feel more confident about maintaining a healthy blood pressure”

–Susie Kurtz

Ideal for those interested in maintaining a healthy blood pressure!

“Blo-Pres simply flies out of our warehouse. As soon as a new shipment arrives, nearly every bottle is out the door” says Mike Winicki, manager of shipping.

Each bottle of Blo-Pres contains 90 easy-to-swallow capsules and is considered a one-month supply. The product is made in an FDAregistered facility in the U.S. Special offer for the readers of this publication!

GET ONE FREE BOTTLE!

You can get a bottle of Blo-Pres for $29.95 including free shipping and handling. Or get two bottles of Blo-Pres and you’ll be given a third bottle absolutely FREE. PLUS, you’ll get FREE shipping and handling.

BENEFITS:

• Helps maintain healthy blood pressure

• Helps maintain a healthy heart

Simply send payment to MWSB Inc., 834 South Union Street Olean, New York 14760-3917 or call 1-888-762-5477 to order. Blo-Pres comes with 30-day money-back guarantee. These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, cure, or prevent any disease. Results may vary. Dr. Tsveiuk was compensated for his recommendation.

FLOWER POWER

A FARMER LENDS HER FILIPINO HERITAGE TO A COLORFUL ENTERPRISE

Days are long as August begins at Masagana Flower Farm & Studio, a small operation located in rural Manitoba between Richer, a community of 600, and La Broquerie, a town of 1,400. It’s past 9 p.m., and the Sun is slowly setting—the socalled “golden hour.” For Lourdes Still, it’s her favorite time of day, at the best time of the year.

All around her, the garden is alive and the soil is warm on her bare feet. Bright blooms point skyward, awaiting dew— and the next day’s heat. Hummingbirds, bees, and other pollinators hover and sip nectar. The distinctive calls of sandhill cranes join with other birdsong, as winged creatures settle into their nests in a field just west of her house.

It’s from here that Still offers visitors the “Tinta experience.” From a Galician-Portuguese word stemming from the Latin tincta, meaning “dyed,” her Tinta workshops invite people to harvest flowers and learn the art of natural dyeing. By the end of the day, participants create a one-of-a-kind scarf or shawl imbued with colors from flowers that were growing in the earth that very morning.

TINTA WORKSHOPS INVITE PEOPLE TO HARVEST FLOWERS AND LEARN THE ART OF NATURAL DYEING.

PLANTING PEACE

Words have power to Still, who named her flower farm Masagana—from the Filipino Tagalog language, meaning “abundant,” “plentiful,” and “prosperous.”

Born in the Philippines, Still chose the name as an acknowledgment of her roots.

The flower farm sits on a 5-acre property—the majority filled with an aspen forest. The front lawns were turned into garden beds, and a section of forest was cleared for a studio. Still’s passion is subsidized by her day job: She works remotely

for a nonprofit, farmerto-farmer educational resource network.

For her, abundance isn’t measured by income or even square footage. Smelling the jasminescented flowering tobacco (Nicotiana) that she plants liberally to remind her of sampaguita (Jasminum sambac) back home, while listening to the bees and trying to catch a glimpse of a hummingbird, Still finds that it’s easy to focus on the present—not on how much work remains to be done or on her efforts to become financially more viable.

“I can find peace in the garden,” she says. “If I’m sad or angry, when I go to the garden I choose to see how much I’m surrounded by beauty.” Snips and basket in hand, she finds it impossible to resist the allure.

FINDING HOME

Still grew up in Bulacan, a city with a population of more than 3.7 million, where she recalls her mother propagating orchids. Still remembers that as a child she was a spectator at best. “I was not interested,” she says.

In 2009, she moved to Winnipeg, a city that has the largest percentage of Filipinos in the country, totaling 8.7 percent of the

Photo: Laina Brown

Trust the company with 100 years of lifestyle and country living expertise to help you ﬁnd your ideal property.

PEACEFUL COUNTRY HOME - Summit, MS

• 3 Acres

• 2,240-SF Home

$199,500 | #23042-43658

• Open Land

• Large Garden Area

RECREATIONAL PROPERTY - Collins, MO

• 39.8 Acres

• 3-BR, 2-BA Home

$398,500 | #24258-60528

• Pole Barn & Outbuildings

• Lush Timber

AGRICULTURAL LAND - O’Brien, FL

• 20.52 ± Acres

• Ideal for Farming

• Well on Property

$275,000 | #09090-25421

CUSTOM HOME - Ripley, TN

• 1.5 Acres

• No Restrictions & No Flood Zone

• 4-BR, 2.5-BA

$329,900 | #41019-24099

• Endless Possibilities

• Attached Carport

population in 2021, according to Statistics Canada.

She took a job as a flower buyer, which for her was about the business side and not a love of flowers but the experience opened her eyes to the fact that flower farms existed in Manitoba.

She first attempted to plant something on her own in 2011, starting with herbs on the balcony of her apartment.

“I didn’t know gardening,” she admits. “I didn’t know what Zone 3 is or the different kinds of zones.”

She also didn’t know that killing frosts can happen throughout May in Winnipeg; she lost almost everything—and learned her first gardening lesson.

After working as a flower buyer—and meeting her future husband who owned the rural property—Still began to latch on to

FLOWERS TO DYE FOR

Some of Still’s favorites:

■ cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus)

■ indigo (Indigofera tinctoria)

■ marigold (Tagetes)

■ madder (Rubia tinctorum)

■ ‘Black Knight’ pincushion (Scabiosa)

■ tickseed (Coreopsis)

■ yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

■ zinnia (Zinnia)

gardening, and the idea of growing gained traction. She devoured books; took lessons from Floret Flower Farm, a family-run operation in Washington’s Skagit Valley; took the Manitoba Master Gardener course; visited greenhouses; attended eco-printing workshops; and learned from others in the industry.

SETTING ROOTS

As Still developed garden plots—starting flowers from seed—she began to feel that Canada was home. “At the same time that I was helping these plants get established in the garden, I was getting rooted as well,” she says.

Even now, she has difficulty explaining how she went from planting herbs on a city apartment balcony to running an entire flower farm less than a decade later. She reflects, “I didn’t choose flowers, but it’s kind of like the flowers chose me.”

Offering the Tinta experience is where Still finds joy and fulfillment. She reports that attendees are often looking for a break from daily stressors and an opportunity to create something beautiful from flowers.

“Some people are

hesitant,” she observes. “They say they aren’t creative. I really believe that everyone is creative. They’ve just never had the time to nurture that, so I feel like my role is to show people how they can let nature lead them in activating their creative self.”

She likens Tinta to planting seeds in people, emphasizing the lasting positive impact of working with flowers and natural dyes on well-being. “I think that’s one of the things that keeps me going—I want to multiply that effect to impact more people.”

–Greg Vandermeulen

Greg Vandermeulen is the editor of The Carillon in Steinbach, Manitoba; a member of the Steinbach and Area Garden Club; and a firm believer that even a bad day spent outdoors is better than a good day in the office.

Photo: Sierra Pries

MAKE YOUR OWN TINTA SCARF

Tinta is all about growing joy through flowers and creating magic through dye plants

After the lesson on how to use plants for the dye itself, eco-printing is the most popular activity among her guests, says Still. Using prepared, natural fabrics, Still shows attendees how to sprinkle fresh or dried flowers to create color and pattern. The textiles are rolled and then steamed to allow the dye from the flowers to bind to the fabric.

You will need:

small stainless steel pot thermometer

plain silk scarf (or use other natural fabrics, such as cotton, wool, or linen)

small bowl fresh or dried blossoms

string wooden spoon or tongs mild detergent

FILL THE POT with water and heat to 140-158°F (60-70°C). Note: boiling water can ruin silk; use a thermometer to safely check the water temperature.

WET THE FABRIC in a bowl of water and soak completely. Wring out excess water

from the fabric and lay it flat on an even surface, such as a table.

SPRINKLE FLOWERS as you please! Use your imagination, take your time, and enjoy the process. Chunky pieces can be crushed with your fingers, or use them as is. For a saturated look, use many flowers; for a minimalist effect, use them sparingly. If using fresh flowers, place the flowers head down on your fabric; for chunky flowers like marigolds, you can break off the petals and place them on your fabric.

ROLL SCARF TIGHTLY into a tube shape and then roll the tube into a cinnamon bun shape; secure the bundle with string. Make sure the scarf and flowers are closely pressed together.

DYE FABRIC by slowly placing the rolled up piece into the pot. After 5 minutes, turn your piece, and wait another 5 minutes. Check the water temperature in your pot to ensure it is 140-158°F (60-70°C).

LIFT FABRIC slowly from the pot using a wooden spoon, and let the piece rest in a bowl for 5 minutes, or until cool.

REVEAL YOUR CREATION by unbundling it and shaking off the flowers. Hang in the shade to dry.

SHARPEN COLORS by storing dyed fabric in a drawer for 7 days. This allows the natural dyes to settle into your fabric. WASH fabric separately with cool water and mild detergent. Now your work of art is ready to wear! ■

THESE HACKS ARE WHACK!

Cinnamon prevents termites? Soap flakes chase away deer? Torching your lawn eliminates bugs? These are but a few of the “clever” garden strategies touted on various social media platforms. How many of these tricks actually work?

Gardening is rife with old wives’ tales, legends about how to make plants grow bigger, faster, longer, and stronger by employing ordinary things found around the house—advice like fertilizing peppers with matchheads, hammering nails into the soil to avert chlorosis, or eradicating ants with pots of boiling water. People tried these tricks—which didn’t work—and so, for better counsel, they turned to learned gardeners who actually knew things. Where do newbie gardeners get their info today? Not necessarily from horticultural vets like me. No, they consult “experts” on the Internet who call their tips “hacks.” Here is a sampling of the sillier hacks making the rounds today.

JUST ADD VINEGAR

Social media posts on the subject may convince you that vinegar solves every

THE MOST WIDESPREAD MYTH ABOUT VINEGAR IS THAT IT’S A SAFE ALTERNATIVE TO EVIL CHEMICAL HERBICIDES FOR KILLING WEEDS.

agricultural, botanical, and horticultural challenge. Let’s examine some of the claims.

Claim: Vinegar acidifies the soil for acid-loving plants. Reality: Vinegar is a liquid. If poured on the soil, it acidifies momentarily until rain or watering flushes it out.

Claim: Vinegar kills ant

mounds. Reality: Just like boiling water, vinegar kills ants that it touches on the surface. It does nothing to ants underground, including the queens, who just produce more ants, and the mounds come back.

The most widespread myth about vinegar is that it’s a safe alternative to evil chemical herbicides for

killing weeds. (Please note: Vinegar, aka acetic acid, is a chemical too, as are water, table salt, and white sugar.) Vinegar kills plants by breaching cell walls of leaves and stems so that their contents leak out.

This may spell finis to annual weeds like crabgrass, but perennial weeds such as poison ivy grow back from the roots— because neither vinegar nor any other natural herbicide is translocated.

The weirdest aspect of the vinegar weedkiller saga is the strange things people add to it to make it kill even better (!), such as blue Dawn liquid detergent (it must always be blue, for some unexplained reason) and Epsom salts. Truth: Liquid detergent makes the vinegar stick better to foliage. That’s it. Epsom salts, aka magnesium sulfate, is a fertilizer. It makes weeds grow faster. Oops! And safer? When administered orally to rats, it took less acetic acid than glyphosate to prove fatal. Also consider that horticultural vinegar is 20 percent acetic acid compared to 5 percent for kitchen vinegar. Get the former in your eyes and it can blind you. Get it on your skin and you’ll

Illustration: Tim Robinson

suffer chemical burns. Pour it on concrete and the concrete dissolves (unless rinsed immediately). Pour it on metal and the metal corrodes. No, thank you.

Kitchen vinegar does have one possible garden use. According to bloggers, you can use it instead of caustic bleach to sanitize garden pots. First, they say, use soapy water and a stiff brush to remove any dirt. Next, soak the pots for 30 minutes in a mixture of vinegar and water, and then rinse them.

What ratio of vinegar to water? Well, one source says 1:5 and another says 1:1. That’s a pretty big difference! Frankly, if I’m really worried about infected pots, I run them through the dishwasher.

BURNING LOVE

In the South, where I live, you sometimes see people purposely set their brown, dormant lawns ablaze in winter. Why? They respond that it’s an easy way to get rid of the old, dead grass while also killing overwintering bugs.

Just a couple of nitpicks here: You might burn up bugs, but volunteers from non-immolated areas will quickly take their place. Plus, burning where it’s illegal— like most suburban yards— could land you a hefty fine. And, of course, should the wind shift unexpectedly, you could burn down your neighbor’s house. This is frowned upon.

So is there nothing good about burning grass? Well,

TERMITE

CONTROL MYTH: SPRINKLE POWDERED CINNAMON

AROUND THE FOUNDATION OR LAY CINNAMON STICKS END-TO-END.

removing the dead grass does allow the sun to reach and warm the soil, promoting an earlier spring greenup from the unscathed grass roots. (Of course, until this happens, for weeks your lawn will look as if it was cauterized by an asteroid.) Burning also kills annual winter weeds such as bluegrass and chickweed, as well as returns tiny amounts of nutrients to the soil—but nowhere near enough to meet a lawn’s needs. My verdict? If you’re going to

start a fire, use it to grill a steak, not the lawn. The marginal benefits of the latter don’t justify the risk.

SPICE THINGS UP FOR TERMITES

Houses contain lots of wood. Termites eat wood and cause billions of dollars of damage in the U.S. and Canada every year. Thus, smart people protect their homes by paying exterminators to periodically apply synthetic termiticides or termite growth regulators

Some primal termite knocked on wood And tasted it, and found it good! And that is why your Cousin May Fell through the parlor floor today. –Ogden Nash, American poet (1902–71)

along the houses’ perimeters. Where I live, you can’t sell your house without a termite bond that guarantees such treatment. But termiticides and growth regulators scare sundry people. What if you could foil termites by using a tasty product in your pantry?

Lesser-informed posts I’ve read advise using cinnamon. See, according to an obscure 2001 study, two compounds found in cinnamon—eugenol and cinnamaldehyde—repel termites. Fantastic! So how do you apply it? Well, you can mix cinnamon oil with water and spray it on wood surfaces near the ground, as well as on wooden furniture. A fundamental flaw with this is that subterranean termites typically enter wood from belowground, a place you can’t spray. No problem! You can also—I’m not making this up—sprinkle powdered cinnamon around the foundation or lay cinnamon sticks end-to-end. If this doesn’t work (and it won’t) and the termite infestation becomes extreme, consulting with a professional pest control company is advised. Wouldn’t it be better to consult them before that happens?

• Target grubswith

• Adding to the power

• Does not contaminate

• Controls the grub(larva)

• Noneed to sacrifice

• Much higher performance

• Better than GrubEx®

To be fair, cinnamon has shown promise as a natural fungicide against Botrytis gray mold on strawberries, grapes, blueberries, and other food crops. Some claim it prevents dampingoff in seedlings too. What’s lacking, however, is a trustworthy, non-anecdotal protocol for what, when, and how to apply cinnamon. Various bloggers

with taminate grub sacrifice performance GrubEx® Target

• Target grubs with the High-Performing, Natural Protein BTG that kills turf grubs within days.

• Adding to the power of BTG are 1000x more spores per pound than M ilky Spore® Products.

• Does not contaminate groundwater, ponds, or creeks; nor put your children and pets at risk like chemical products do.

• Controls the grub (larva) o f all Scarab beetles & other listed turf insects, not just Japanese beetle.

• No need t o sacrifice the high performance of leading chemicals for safety.

• Much higher performance than oils, nematodes & milky spore products. Scarab Grub Trial: NCSU

• Better than GrubEx® (chlorantraniliprole) in the Summer and Fall.

Target the Pest . Not the Rest!®

% GRUB MORTALITY

AND OTHER BENEFICIALS ARE ACTIVE

Targeted Beetle, Weevil & Borer Insects: Scarab Grub (Larva), Alfalfa Weevil, N.Masked Chafer, Asiatic Garden Beetle, Japanese Beetle, Darkling Beetle, Rose Chafer, Cupreous Chafer, Emerald Ash Borer, Oriental Beetle, European Chafer, Rice Leaf Beetle, Green June Beetle, S.Masked Chafer, Rice Water Weevil, Alder Leaf Beetle, Golds potted Oak Borer, Annual Bluegrass Weevil, Billbug & more ...

GARDEN WISDOM

NOTHING KEEPS HUNGRY DEER FROM EATING THEIR FAVORITE PLANTS EXCEPT A 10-FOOT FENCE WITH AN ORCA-FILLED MOAT.

employ powdered cinnamon. Other DIYers and YouTubers swear by cinnamon essential oil. Sorry, but there’s way too much, “Well, it worked for me!” going on here. For something as serious as this, give me a product with an EPAcertified label stating what it does and how to use it.

TREAT DEER TO AN IRISH SPRING

Back in the day, folks advised hanging bars of Ivory soap around the garden to repel deer. Tastes have evolved, I guess, because now the preferred soap is Irish Spring. I hear Irish Spring even has a new slogan: “Made for a man, but deer can’t stand it.” Let’s get real here, peeps.

Nothing keeps hungry deer from eating their favorite plants except a 10-foot fence with an orca-filled moat. One of my readers told me she spread shavings of Irish Spring all over her yard. Deer didn’t mind, but after it rained, soap suds covered the ground and the garden smelled springtime fresh!

PLANTS REPEL SKEETERS

DEET, a synthetic chemical compound, is the most effective deterrent to mosquito bites. It works by messing with the insect’s ability to track you by skin odor and exhaled CO2. But there’s that scary word “synthetic” again. Wouldn’t it be better to surround yourself with

plants filled with aromatic compounds that work like DEET? You know, lemon grass (citronella), scented geranium, lavender, mint, rosemary, basil, and marigold? Sorry, but these plants don’t release enough aromatics into the air to do any good. I’ve seen skeeters land on mosquito plants. For plants to work, you need to crush the foliage and rub the aromatics onto your skin or buy concentrated plant-based repellents.

PEPPER GENDER REVEAL

If you want the sweetest bell pepper, I have a whacked hack for you! Count the lobes—this is supposed to work because female peppers have four lobes, male peppers have only three,

and females taste sweeter. Oh, really. First of all, I object to the term “female pepper.” “Seed-bearing pepper” is preferred.

Secondly, almost all bell peppers have seeds, no matter the number of lobes. Their flowers are “perfect,” meaning they possess both male and female parts and pollinate themselves. Thus, pepper plants don’t have separate sexes. Sweetness depends on the cultivar of pepper and its ripeness.

Another myth busted. ■ –Steve Bender

Steve Bender, aka the Grumpy Gardener, lives and gardens in Alabama, where he debunks hacks and keeps his cinnamon confined to coffee cake.

Illustration: Tim Robinson

THE GARDENING WEATHERMAN

’Twas just a garden in the rain But then the sun came out again And sent us happily on our way.

– James Dryenforth, American songwriter (1895–1973), in “A Garden in the Rain”

To Boston area folks, Dave Epstein is a household name. When he isn’t predicting the weather (he’s the meteorologist for The Boston Globe as well as WGBH, one of Boston’s NPR stations), you can find him digging in his garden in Natick, Massachusetts, where he lives with his husband and son and serves on the board of the Natick Community Organic Farm. In the summertime, he tends a small plot at their cottage in Harpswell, Maine, not far from where he grew up.

SEEDS OF FASCINATION

Ifirst became fascinated with the weather and meteorology during the winter of 1970–71. It was epic in Portland, Maine—the snowfall total was more than 140 inches, and it completely changed my world. As a 6-yearold, I was fascinated by what was happening, and this sparked my love for weather. By the time I started growing vegetables, at around age 10, I was intensely following

meteorologists on TV and in the newspaper.

My first garden memory is of bearded irises behind my grandmother’s house. I remember the flowers being tall and purple and interesting for their shape and complexity. Where I grew up in Portland, I could walk to her house through the woods. Nearby there was a big vegetable garden—part of a small farm stand—and I vividly remember the strawberries and corn.

My grandparents and parents both supported my love of plants. One set of grandparents gave me some tomato seeds to plant; the other would take me into the garden and encourage me to grow things.

I learned from many people, including my eighth-grade science teacher, Mr. Chambers. He and I would discuss gardening details, like when we were planning to put out our tomato seedlings.

BEGINNER’S PLUCK

My first garden wasn’t great. The soil had a lot of clay and my carrots didn’t perform well. Tomatoes were probably the first successful thing I grew, along with lettuce. I followed my garden for an entire year—taking pictures of it—and made it part of my Colby College application essay.

Nowadays, I like growing new, colorful varieties of cauliflower and broccoli— they’re not the easiest ones

Photos: Dave Epstein

to grow, but I think they’re more interesting. They take up a lot of space for one harvest, so they’re not necessarily the most efficient plants in the garden.

I’ve also grown new varieties of tomatoes. I like some of the micro tomatoes like ‘Spoon’ and ‘Litt’l Bites’. ‘Green Zebra’ is a beautiful tomato and ‘Sungold’ is a classic cherry.

One challenge is the fluctuating weather, making it important to find more disease-resistant varieties. When humidity levels rise with the changing climate, it increases the likelihood of fungal and bacterial diseases, especially for tomatoes.

In Maine, observing the way Johnny’s Selected Seeds trials their vegetables was influential for me. It was instructive to see vegetables being grown for taste and longevity—and things like

bolting for lettuces and other greens. I learned how they select varieties for their catalog, and this helped me to understand the best choices to grow in my own garden. Learning about greenhouse growing in Israel also got me thinking about the different varieties of vegetables I could grow.

The formal gardens of Europe have also been an inspiration—I have tried borrowing elements from them and incorporating smaller versions into my own gardens. There’s a lot of linear structure to formal gardens—and my gardens are very much not linear—but there are certain plants with very formal structure, like ‘Sky Pencil’ holly, that I’ve added to the garden.

WEATHERING MISTAKES Predicting the weather

and nurturing a garden are similar—you’re going to make mistakes forecasting and you’re going to make mistakes gardening.

Gardening is completely dependent on weather. If there’s too much or too little of almost anything, it will impact the way you garden. Every few years, if you get just the right amount of rain, plus not too much heat and not too much cold, your garden thrives. This kind of weather gives you more time to work in the garden. In contrast, a year with drought can be overwhelming in terms of keeping everything watered, especially plants in containers.

NATURE RULES

Over the years, I’ve become resigned to the fact that I can’t control

nature. I’m going to lose plants, weather will interrupt plans, and the forecast is going to change. Instead of being thrown by surprises, I try to appreciate the unexpected and learn what I can.

Nature is my higher power. I feel a connection to the world, the universe, and others through nature. It’s nature that sustains and grounds me. It’s nature that brings me a sense of peace and wholeness.

If I’m having a bad day, and I can get myself out of doors, I almost always feel better. The sounds of nature are particularly awe-inspiring to me. Birds singing loudly on a late winter morning at sunrise is a gift. ■ –Dave Epstein

Dave Epstein has been a meteorologist and horticulturalist for more than 35 years.

I heard a bird at break of day Sing from the Autumn trees A song so mystical and calm, So full of certainties.

–William Alexander Percy, American poet (1885–1942), in “Overtones”

FALLING FOR FALL VEGETABLES

When summer begins to wane, there is still time to plant vegetables. With fewer pests and weeds, warm soil, and (hopefully) more rainfall, it can be a less stressful time for gardeners and their plants. Think of fall as a second spring! When others are bemoaning the end of the season, you can be eating “spring” veggies again.

The key to a productive garden is keeping it fully planted all season long.

WHEN DAYS GROW SHORTER, IT’S TIME TO GET GROWING

Called succession planting, it is easy to do—as soon as one crop is harvested, jazz up the empty bed with compost and plant another crop in its place.

Around July 4, I start new plants indoors so that they’ll be ready to fill the space left empty after we harvest our garlic crop in late July. Some of these are tender, such as cucumbers and summer squashes, but most are cold-hardy plants that only improve as the weather cools. The rest—root crops, peas, beans, and some

greens—are sown directly. Keep in mind three things while planning your fall garden: when, what, and how.

WHEN: TIMING IS EVERYTHING

In southern climates, August means planting another round of warmweather crops—but where fall temperatures aren’t as mild, growers need to pay attention to the average date of their first frost to decide what can safely be grown and harvested before temperatures drop below

32°F. Many hardy plants can survive a light frost, but a severe frost—temperatures below 25°F—ends the growing season.

There can be a lot of glorious gardening weather between late summer and mid-October. Even though the days are getting shorter, the soil is warmer than it was in May, which means that seeds sown in late summer will germinate quickly, and the plants will be off to a good start. Just to be on the safe side— because plants grow more

Photo:

VEGETABLES

slowly in the shorter, cooler days of fall—add a “fall factor” of another week or two to the maturity time. If you plan to offer your plants protection (such as cold frames or row covers), you can plant 2 to 3 weeks later and still expect to get a good harvest.

WHAT TO GROW: FALL FAVORITES

Vegetables that mature quickly and are frosttolerant make for the best fall crops. Here’s a list of six types of vegetables to plant

in late summer to keep the garden going through fall!

SALAD GREENS: These are fast and hardy. Leaf lettuces are ready to cut in 45 to 50 days. Looseleaf and butterhead leaves can be harvested almost any time in their development. Sometimes lettuce seeds have difficulty germinating in hot soil, so I start new baby lettuces in flats that I can keep well-watered and shaded until the plants are large enough to transplant into the garden. Some varieties of lettuce, such

as ‘Winter Marvel’ and ‘Winter Density’, are more cold-tolerant than others— while ‘New Red Fire’ and ‘Marvel of Four Seasons’ stand up to heat and cold. Other greens such as arugula, mâche, minutina, and claytonia can withstand

colder temperatures, providing lots of interesting salads into late fall.

ROOTS: A crop of radishes will be ready for the salad bowl in 25 days. Start picking tender young salad turnips, such as ‘Hakurei’, in about 30 days. Other root crops, like carrots and beets, will take longer and are worth the wait since their

flavors tend to get sweeter as the days cool down.

COOKING GREENS: Spinach, which can struggle in the summer heat, thrives in cooler fall weather. Swiss chard is another hardy green that reaches an edible

size in 25 to 30 days. Both are tasty raw or cooked. With some extra protection, spinach and chard will continue to grow even as the first frost threatens. If well-mulched, both will overwinter and give you an extra-early spring crop in many parts of the country.

COLE CROPS: Most brassicas mature well in cool weather

and, when compared to spring-planted cole crops, will not be bothered by cabbageworms. Give cabbage and broccoli an advantage by starting seeds indoors 4 weeks ahead, and they’ll be ready for transplanting into the garden in late July. Cabbage can withstand cold temperatures; but if you think broccoli will not have enough time (at least 60 days) to form heads, try mini broccoli, broccoli raab, or gai lan, which can be ready to pick as soon as 25 days from transplanting.

Kale is a winter staple. Try blue-green ‘Winterbor’ or pretty purple ‘Redbor’. Both are ready in 45 to 50 days after transplanting and will continue to grow as you harvest the lower leaves. They will keep growing long after other greens have been killed off by cold weather. Our favorite is ‘Red Russian’, also called ‘Ragged Jack’. It is extremely hardy— but still tender and mildflavored—and often overwinters in our garden, providing baby kale leaves first thing in the spring. (continued)

www.FilareeFarm.com

‘WINTER MARVEL’ LETTUCE

‘NEW RED FIRE’ LETTUCE SWISS CHARD

‘HAKUREI’ TURNIP BROCCOLI RAAB

‘REDBOR’ KALE

Proudly Family

Seed Garlic Seed Shallots Seed Potatoes Asparagus Sweet Potato

perennials and more.

GROW BOX ™

The GrowBox™ automatically waters and adds the correct amount of fertilizer every day, keeps weeds out, and even shows you the best spacing for your plants. Stellar results are 100% Guaranteed or your money back.

Farm-Fresh Vegetables Without the Farm™

B REC K’S Direct to you from Holland, since 1818 Gardeners have trusted Breck’s for more than two centuries. We offer affordable, top-quality Dutch bulbs, perennials, and more.

800-519-1955

AGardenPatch.com/FF

Seeds • Plants Bulbs • Supplies From our garden to yours for 116 years. Take 15% off with code: ALMANAC25

Specializing in heirloom seeds. Our 700+ varieties offer remarkable flavor and superior disease and pest resistance.

TOTALLY TOMATOES

We Totally Love Tomatoes! See our complete catalog of seeds and plants online. Our selection includes tomatoes, peppers, herbs, and much more. Take 15% off with code: ALMANAC25 TOTALLYTOMATOES .COM • 800- 345-5977

VEGETABLES

Kohlrabi is another quick-growing, coldtolerant brassica that’s ready to pick about 50 days from seeding, and the leaves are edible, too.

BEANS AND PEAS: Bush beans take 6 to 8 weeks to reach a harvestable size; they will be killed by frost unless you plan to protect

them. If you live in an area with a long growing season, this will not be a problem. Snap peas and snow peas start to bear in 60 days, and peas that mature in cold weather seem especially sweet and crisp. Pea vines can survive temperatures as low as 25°F. One challenge with growing fall peas is pollination. Bees are less active in cold weather so the number of pods is fewer than in the spring; but all parts of the plant are edible, and pea tendrils are delicious raw or lightly cooked.

ASIAN GREENS: These are the real stars of the fall garden. Quick-maturing varieties can be harvested in 45 days. Tatsoi, pak choi (also called bok choy),

mizuna, and napa are all in the brassica family and have a sweet, mild flavor. Others such as hon tsai tai and mibuna are more closely related to mustard (also a brassica), with zesty leaves that add a delectable bite to a fall salad or stir-fry. They will germinate fast in warm, late-summer soil if you want to direct sow—though

I start them inside to have strong transplants at the ready. All of these greens can weather a frost and will last through a hard freeze if given some protection.

HOW TO KEEP ON GROWING

■ As you harvest early crops and remove tired or diseased plants, clean up the beds and add an inch or two of compost or aged manure to feed the soil before

planting something new.

■ If sowing directly, keep the beds well-watered until the seeds germinate.

■ Stagger small plantings of fast-maturing crops every few weeks to spread out the harvest. Leaf lettuce, mâche, and spinach seeds won’t germinate well if soil temperatures are above 75°F; shade their beds if direct sowing,

start them indoors, or plant seeds in a container in a shady spot outside.

■ Cooler temperatures mean fewer pests, but you still need to keep an eye out for flea beetles, slugs, cutworms, and cabbageworms. They all like to munch on young sprouts and leafy greens.

■ Use mulch to keep soil consistently moist and also to protect roots from freezing when cold weather sets in.

COUNTING DOWN THE DAYS

Deciding on when to plant your fall garden? Check the Almanac or Almanac.com/FrostDates for the date of the first fall frost in your area, and count backwards to calculate how many days you have left in your growing season. Where I live, the first frost is around September 22, but often it’s another month before we see a killing frost.

■ For added protection, shield your plants with row covers supported by wire hoops. This will deter insects like cabbageworms and shade tender crops like lettuce. Add a heavier layer when colder weather sets in.

■ Finally, when snow and ice threaten, I add a layer of plastic to shed as much

of the frozen precipitation as possible. Plants stay nice and toasty underneath even when nighttime temperatures sink into the low 20s!

With a little planning, you can extend the growing season no matter where you garden. Last year in New Hampshire, the ground was frozen all around our garden beds but still workable inside the mini-tunnels. We were picking (and happily eating) carrots, beets, chard, kale, and Asian greens in mid-December. ■ –Robin Sweetser

A lifelong organic gardener, Robin Sweetser grows as much food as possible in her rocky Hillsborough, New Hampshire, garden.

KOHLRABI

SNOW PEAS

BUSH BEANS

MIZUNA ASIAN GREENS

PEAT CAN BE BEAT!

Peat moss is a staple in our garden sheds. We use it in potting mix, as a seed-starter, in seedling pots, to line hanging baskets, and as a cozy bedding for overwintering bulbs. Despite its popularity, harvesting peat poses problems for the environment. It is nonrenewable— taking 1,000 years to form a single cubic yard.

Peat develops when plants decay in oxygen-free, wet, acidic conditions—like those in bogs and wetlands. Sphagnum moss, the live layer that grows on top of a bog, is peat’s primary component. As surface sphagnum dies and accumulates

on the bottom, a rich, dense layer of peat forms. Sphagnum, a genus comprising hundreds of moss species, is prized for its ability to hold over 20 times its dry weight in water. Paradoxically, in addition to retaining moisture, its light, airy consistency allows for excellent drainage. This is why gardeners have been infatuated with peat since the 1940s. Now, it’s time to scrap the peat.

PITCHING THE PEAT

Gardening peat-free is possible. Experiment with moss alternatives to create your own potting mix and seedling mix. If a wholehog transition to peat-free

is too challenging, use an incremental strategy, gradually substituting compost, leaf mold, and coconut coir.

LET IT ROT

Compost is king in terms of sustainability, with leaf mold a close second. If you are not already making your own, start now.

RE: LEAF

Leaf mold decomposes due to fungi, whereas conventional compost is broken down by bacteria.

WIGGLE ROOM

Vermicomposting is the practice of using worms to turn your kitchen scraps into fertilizer. Earthworms

eat your garbage, recycling food waste into ideal compost. One pound of worms (about 1,000) will eat 1/2 pound of food scraps per day. In 4 to 6 months, you’ll have a box full of finished compost high in calcium, iron, magnesium, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.

I WISH YOU WOOD

Wood products—sawdust, paper, bark, and chips— that are not pressure-treated can represent a big part of the peat-replacement menu. This organic material is a renewable by-product of the lumber and forestry industries. It adds structure for drainage,

Photo:

Carnival F1 Hybrid Acorn Winter Squash – New for ‘25

retains water, and has beneficial microorganisms. Composted pine bark is a common addition to potting media in nurseries.

WHAT, THE HULL?

The protective husk that covers rice grains is a byproduct of agriculture and craft beer brewing. Rice hulls improve water retention, drainage, and aeration. However, these aren’t a stand-alone medium and need to be mixed at a ratio of 1:3 with other materials to make up potting

COMPOST

You will need . . . carbon-rich brown matter: dry leaves, garden debris, shredded cardboard and paper (uncolored, with no glue or wax coating)

nitrogen-rich green matter: grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps, tea bags, coffee grounds, crushed eggshells garden fork

■ Layer two to three parts browns to one part greens.

■ Dampen layers with water and turn the pile with a garden fork periodically to keep it aerated.

■ Encourage faster decomposition by chopping up large items such as stalks and corn cobs.

■ Avoid bones, bread, dairy, fats, fish, meat, nuts, oils, and pasta.

■ Screen compost to a crumbly consistency (with no clumps) before using.

LEAF MOLD

You will need . . . leaves moisture air

mix. After one season they break down and should be replenished.

PREACHING TO THE COIR

Coir is the term for the coarse fibers between the shell and outer covering of a coconut. Long ones are used for rope, doormats, and brushes, while shorter ones are sold for horticultural use. Coir holds up to 10 times its weight in water, provides good drainage, and has a near-neutral pH level—qualities that make it the predominant

peat alternative. Still, it is not a perfectly green option. Coconut trees, which require vast amounts of water (15 to 30 gallons a day), are grown in India and Sri Lanka, areas with water scarcity. Because palms are grown on coastlines, coconut husks are naturally infused with salt. Processing to remove husk fibers and reduce salinity requires intensive soaking and rinsing. Home gardeners often re-rinse salt from the fibers, and additional rinsing is essential for hydroponic growers.

RECIPES FOR BEATING PEAT

■ Combine all ingredients and be patient—leaf mold can take up to a year or two to develop.

■ One method is to bag leaves in black plastic, moisten them, seal the bags, poke two or three holes in the bottom of each for airflow and drainage, and store the bags in a shady spot. Check them once a month for adequate moisture and add water if they are dry.

■ For speedier decomposition, shred leaf piles with a mower and then mound the leaves in a chicken wire bin or shady corner of the yard.

■ Hasten the process by adding nitrogen-rich grass clippings (one part clippings to two parts leaves).

■ To give decomposition a good head start, place your leaf bin beneath trees where leaf-loving fungi colonies already live.

VERMICULTURE

You will need . . . red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) worm box dark, warm place (50–80°F)

MINERAL DEFICIENCIES

The minerals vermiculite and perlite are unrivaled drainage boosters, but they are not renewable. They incur carbon costs not only in their mining and extraction but also in their production, as both need to be processed under high heat to be exploded into light, puffy particles. Sand improves drainage, too, but doesn’t hold water like vermiculite; builders or coarse sand is a less expensive alternative to horticultural grit, which needs to be washed for the removal of

shredded newspaper (uncolored) soil, sand, or compost kitchen scraps water

■ Wet newspaper until it feels like a damp sponge. Place in worm box, filling up to 3/4 of the box, but do not pack down. The worms should be able to wiggle through the layers. Mix in some soil. Keep bedding moist but not soggy— add water as necessary.

■ Bury kitchen scraps in the top 1 to 3 inches of bedding to discourage odors and fruit flies. Some of your worms’ favorite foods are coffee grounds, tea leaves, pasta, rice, bread, cereal, crushed eggshells, banana peels, melons, plant clippings, and vegetable and fruit scraps (go easy on citrus peels). Never feed them meat, bones, oils, fat, or vinegar.

Note: Worms are nocturnal and sensitive to light; they come to the surface to feed at night and need to be kept in a dark place.

POTTING MIX

#1:

2 parts compost

1 part leaf mold

1 part perlite

#2:

1 part compost

1 part leaf mold

1 part loam

#3:

1 part compost

1 part screened garden soil

1 part vermiculite

1 part moisture-retaining fiber (approximately 50% leaf mold, 25% rice hulls, 25% fine wood products like composted bark)

SEED-STARTING MIX

#1:

2 parts screened compost

2 parts coir or leaf mold

1 part perlite

#2:

3 parts coir

1 part perlite

1 part vermiculite

For more tips on starting seeds, visit Almanac.com/ video/how-make-your-ownseed-starting-mix.

salt and lime. Sand is not a renewable resource.

BECOME A POTTING MIXOLOGIST

The best potting mixes absorb and release nutrients, allow water flow and air exchange, and are dense enough to support the plant. Experiment— ingredients and proportions will vary according to plant type. The benefit of homemade is that it is a customizable concoction.

STARTING SMART

Seed-starting mix relies on its fluffy texture for aeration and healthy root growth. It needn’t be high in nutrients because the tiny seed packs its own. Seedlings are sensitive to pH, salt, and other chemicals, making coir a popular choice for this application. If you choose coir, look for

a sustainable producer. The Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) has extensive product lists, including sources in Canada and

Mexico, available for free at www.omri.org/omri-lists.

PEATLESS POTS

There are several ways

FOR PEAT’S SAKE

Ancient bogs are among the world’s best carbon sinks. They cover only 3 percent of the planet’s land surface yet sequester 30 percent of the world’s soil carbon—twice as much as found in all of the world’s forests!

Peatlands have a unique ecosystem that supports rare and endangered flora and fauna, such as wild orchids and whooping cranes. Nearly a million acres a year are disappearing. What took millennia to form is destroyed when peatlands are excavated for agriculture, pasture, horticulture, forestry, and fuel. Degraded peat releases potent greenhouse gases like carbon dioxide and methane.

Preserving peatlands is so crucial that the United Kingdom has banned the retail sale of bagged peat composts and is on track to impose a ban on all uses of peat by 2030. Other countries are following suit, but Ireland’s recent peat regulations caused such an outcry from citizens (100,000 of whom still cut turf) that the government ended up softening the restrictions. No such proclamations have been issued in the United States and Canada. Canada is the primary source of peat used in North America—but is also the #1-ranked country in the world for peat bog restoration.

to make seed-starting containers:

■ Start seedlings in egg cartons (cardboard, not Styrofoam), poke small holes in them for drainage, and then cut apart the individual cups for planting.

■ Shape a double layer of newspaper (7 inches tall by 4 inches wide) around a bottle, seal the side with compostable paper tape, fold the bottom (like wrapping a present with no tape), and then slide off the tube for planting.

■ Recycle toilet paper rolls by cutting four to five slits at one end and folding them over to make a secure bottom; fill three-quarters full with medium. ■ –Polly Bannister

Polly Bannister gardens peat-free in Dublin, New Hampshire.

PEAT MOSS

PINE BARK

VERMICULITE

COCONUT COIR

COMPOST

PERLITE

A TRULY NUTTY ENTERPRISE

MEET ONTARIANS WHO CRACKED THE NUT-GROWING CODE

If a Persian walnut or an American hazelnut were felled, Ernie Grimo could easily tell the tree’s age. Born in 1939, he’s old enough—and spry enough— to count his own rings.

Ernie and his daughter, Linda, are at the helm of Grimo Nut Nursery, a remarkable repository of trees and knowledge that’s been rooted for more than 50 years on 14 acres in Niagaraon-the-Lake, Ontario.

The Grimos are gurus of growing nut trees. Since 1975, Ernie has been breeding and propagating trees ranging from heartnuts to hickories. In the winter of 2023, he grafted more than

4,000 trees for clients across North America. The 2-year waiting list for some of his specimens speaks to the value of a clone of a superior selection or cultivar.

A good example is a hazelnut tree resistant to eastern filbert blight and bud mite.

After more than two decades in the family’s treenursery business, Linda now recognizes that her formative years were spent living in a food forest—the ideal environment of many current gardeners. “As kids, we thought that it was natural to pick up nuts like squirrels do,” remembers Linda. “We would smash the nuts between two rocks to get at the meat.”

Even with the smallest of footprints for planting, a gardener today can create a food forest with layers: canopy (large and tall trees), understory (smaller and immature trees, shrubs, and vines), as well as herbs, ground covers, and root crops. Nut trees fit into that vision. For example,

Photos: Grimo Nut Nursery

WALNUT CHESTNUT

He who would eat the nut must first crack the shell. –English proverb

a hazelnut tree, depending on variety, reaches a height of 8 to 18 feet at maturity. With its modest canopy, it can be tucked into a landscape to add diversity and support an understory of berries.

GOING NUTS

As exotic as these cultivars sound, Linda assures enthusiasts that the potential for growing nut trees is wide-ranging. Those living close to the moderating effects of the Great Lakes or the St. Lawrence River can grow these specialties. The Society of Ontario Nut Growers (with its memorable acronym, SONG) comprises 300 commercial growers and hobbyists, some with similar family pride: In Berthierville, Quebec, Monique Dumontier carries on the more than 40-year legacy of her father caring for a

walnut grove and operating a nut-shelling service.

An ecosystem of technical support is shared across borders. Canadian growers are connected to similar minds in the United States, swapping knowledge and experience. The combined meeting of the Northern Nut Growers Association

with the Chestnut Growers of America in Syracuse, New York, in July 2024, was typical of the nut-growing community.

Linda and Ernie Grimo have mentored dozens of these growers, whether they are newbies contemplating a first specimen tree or seasoned professionals

NOTES FOR NUT NOVICES

planting an entire grove. The most commonly asked questions are about climate, varieties, soils, diseases, and end uses.

Take a look at the differences between hazelnuts, hickories, and heartnuts. “Hazelnuts can be grown across different climate zones,” reports Linda. “They are grown all across Europe, from the Carpathian Mountains to the English countryside.”

For “hazels,” as she calls them, the planting site is the most important. “How easy is it to dig the hole?” Linda asks. “Heavy clay soil is not a good choice, nor are low or wet areas. Drainage is the secret to success, with a small mound of earth around the trunk that will allow rain to drain away.”

Hazelnuts thrive in full sun but will also tolerate some shade. With its round crown, this tree is ideal for

As a beginning nut gardener, what should you take into consideration? Linda Grimo shares the basics for four popular species.

HEARTNUT

(Juglans ailantifolia var. cordiformis)

■ Hardy in Zones 5 to 7, although some protection is needed in Zone 5.

■ Well-draining soils, from moist loam to sandy loam

■ Seedlings produce in 5 to 8 years; grafted trees, 3 to 4.

■ Mature height is up to 50 feet; spread, up to 60 feet.

■ Not affected by diseases

NORTHERN PERSIAN WALNUT (J. regia)

■ Hardy in Zones 6 to 8

■ Well-draining soils, from moist loam to sandy loam

■ Seedlings produce in 5 to 8 years; grafted trees, 3 to 4.

■ Mature height is up to 60 feet; spread, up to 50 feet.

■ Some cultivars are more resistant to blight than others; copper sprays are effective.

SHAGBARK HICKORY (Carya ovata)

■ Hardy in Zones 4 to 8

■ Well-draining soils, from moist loam to sandy loam

■ Trees produce in 8 to 10 years.

■ Mature height is up to 80 feet; spread, up to 50 feet.

■ Not affected by diseases

SWEET CHESTNUT (Castanea sativa)

■ Hardy in Zones 5 to 7

■ Acidic, well-draining soils, from moist loam to sandy loam

■ Seedlings produce in 5 to 8 years; grafted trees, 3 to 4.

■ Mature height is up to 50 feet; spread, the same.

■ Resistant to chestnut blight

Photos: Grimo Nut Nursery

HAZELNUT

See how one small addition can make a big difference “The sky’s The Limit”

sky’s The Limit”

See how one small addition can make a big difference “The sky’s The Limit”

See how one small addition can make a big difference

HOURS: Mon-Fri 8:00AM-4:30PM • Saturday by Appointment

78 State Road, Dartmouth, MA • (508) 994-2119 • capecodcupola.com See how one small addition can make a big difference “The sky’s The Limit” “The Sky’s the Limit”

HOURS: Mon-Fri 8:00AM-4:30PM • Saturday by Appointment

HOURS: Mon–Fri 8:00am–4:30pm • Saturday by Appointment

78 State Road, Dartmouth, MA • (508) 994-2119 • capecodcupola.com

Naturally Attracts & Holds Dust

Thank you, Doris Conlon Worcester, MA Eco-Friendly

78 State Road, Dartmouth, MA • (508) 994-2119 • capecodcupola.com ’til 12" 11" 18". ’

Received my mop and have used it every day. I just love it. I didn’t think you could improve on my old one (25 years), but you did. I particularly like the swivel and the light colors. Please send another to my daughter, ʻthe other three will come later.’

Handmade in Vermont, our pure wool dust mop lasts twice as long as cotton and blends. Not only is the natural fiber inherently durable, the swivel head provides maneuverability for easy cleaning. The natural lanolin in the wool draws dust like a magnet ... and holds tight ’til you give the mop a good shake. The new Velcro backing allows for quick & easy removal of the dust head from its 12" frame for laundering. Telescoping handle included. Dusting area measures 11" x 18". $49.98 - Free Shipping.

Sladust / 217-4 Maxham Meadow Way / Woodstock, VT 05091 / Phone: 802-779-2541

Prices valid until December 31, 2025

the backyard fence, lighting up in early spring with small, magenta-colored starbursts at branch tips. Though monoecious, meaning the tree bears both male catkins and female flowers, hazels are self-incompatible. To get nuts, buy a second tree that is of a different compatible variety so that female flowers can be wind-pollinated. Such great strides have been made in breeding disease-resistant, cold-tolerant hazels that it’s the first nut tree to have a commercial industry in Ontario.

THE HEART OF THE MATTER

Not all nut trees are planted

IF FALL COLOR IS WHAT YOU’RE CRAVING, TRY A HICKORY TREE FOR ITS ORANGEYELLOW BLAZE. IT IS A LONG-LIVED TREE, REACHING A MATURE HEIGHT OF AT LEAST 60 FEET AND WIDTH OF 45 FEET.

for their fruit. “The heartnut is an interesting tree for its sprawling lateral limbs,” Linda points out. “Some gardeners may consider this tree for its winter architectural interest.” Heartnuts have been bred by the Grimos since 2005 through controlled crosses. Some nuts have been shaped like ovals, while others have been teardrops. Valentineshape kernels are prized for their unique silhouette that pops out of the

shell—ideally, whole.

To date, three varieties have been bred that now bear Grimo family names: ‘Rose’, ‘Bernice’, and ‘Ernie’. While all of these names hearken to family connections, Ernie is most proud of his namesake variety, a large productive tree that can yield up to 5 bushels of nuts each year.

If fall color is what you’re craving, try a hickory tree for its orange-yellow blaze. It is a long-lived tree,

reaching a mature height of at least 60 feet and width of 45 feet.

“This tree is perfect for a front yard,” says Linda. “For the first 10 years, its slowgrowth habit means that it won’t touch the house. It’s not messy. If you’re worried about the squirrels, you can place a metal collar about 3 feet up the trunk to protect the nuts.”

As Linda will attest, in a nutshell, planning a food forest requires patience. ■ –Karen Davidson

Karen Davidson is the editor of The Grower, a leading Canadian horticultural publication, and a frequent contributor to the Almanac.

Photos: Grimo Nut Nursery

HICKORY

HEARTNUT

BLOEDEL CONSERVATORY

VANCOUVER, BC

HATLEY PARK AT ROYAL ROADS UNIVERSITY

VANCOUVER ISLAND, BC

MUTTART CONSERVATORY

EDMONTON, ALTA

LUTHER BURBANK HOME AND GARDENS

SANTA ROSA, CA

HUNTINGTON BOTANICAL GARDENS

SAN MARINO, CA

Garden Rambles

ONCE IN A WHILE, YOU’VE GOT TO LEAVE YOUR GARDEN—— HERE ARE 24 REASONS FOR A ROAD TRIP! BY SUSAN PEERY

DENVER BOTANIC GARDENS

DENVER, CO

ARIZONASONORA DESERT MUSEUM

TUCSON, AZ

AMARILLO BOTANICAL GARDENS

AMARILLO, TX

Gardeners tend to be homebodies, experts on a certain plot of land—which plants get morning sun, where the wet spots are. Yet who among us is not curious about other gardens, other visions, other zones? Before you hit the road, check websites for details on hours, cost, and what’s in bloom. (continued)

MARJORIE K. DAUGHERTY CONSERVATORY AND LAURITZEN GARDENS

OMAHA,

BOERNER BOTANICAL GARDENS

HALES CORNER, WI

JARDINS DE MÉTIS, REFORD GARDENS

GRAND-MÉTIS, QUE

MONTREAL BOTANICAL GARDEN

CHICAGO BOTANIC GARDEN

MONTREAL, QUE

STAN HYWET HALL AND GARDENS

GLENCOE, IL

FOELLINGERFREI MANN BOTANICAL CONSERVATORY

AKRON, OH

FORT WAYNE, IN

HERSHEY GARDENS CONSERVATORY

HERSHEY, PA

BILTMORE ESTATE

ASHEVILLE, NC

COLONIAL WILLIAMSBURG

WILLIAMSBURG, VA

OLD WESTBURY GARDENS

LONG ISLAND, NY

HALIFAX PUBLIC GARDENS

HALIFAX, NS

HISTORIC BARTRAM’S GARDEN

PHILADELPHIA, PA

U.S. NATIONAL ARBORETUM HERB GARDEN

WASHINGTON, DC

CEDAR LAKES WOODS AND GARDENS

WILLISTOWN, FL

FAIRCHILD TROPICAL BOTANIC GARDEN

CORAL GABLES, FL

Rock Gardens

Here are a few of the public gardens in the United States and Canada that began when someone looked at an old quarry and thought it would be a perfect garden.

BEAUTIFUL Queen Elizabeth Park, on a hill overlooking the city, is built around old basalt quarries. Starting just before World War II, the city transformed the quarries into a series of terraced gardens. The largest of these quarry gardens is just west of the flower-filled Bloedel Conservatory.

BEST SHOW: A smaller, Japanese-influenced quarry garden, next door to the Seasons in the Park restaurant, adjoins an arboretum of more than 1,500 trees from across Canada, including coastal redwoods.

IN THE KNOW: At 125 meters above sea level, this is the highest point in Vancouver and makes for spectacular views of the park, city, and mountains.

GO: Open year-round; park admission is free. vandusengarden.org

MORE THAN a century ago, this beautiful botanical garden was an abandoned limestone quarry that had become a polluted swamp. In 1991, Dr. Raymond Webber bought the property, thinking he’d clear out the quarry and make it into a fishing hole.

BEST SHOW: As Webber worked to clean up the quarry, he found himself creating small gardens here, a landscaped pool there, until he had transformed the quarry into a 20-acre botanical garden where both temperate and semi-tropical plants flourish year-round.

IN THE KNOW: The gardens now have nonprofit status, with the goal of promoting peace, humane education, animal rescue, and environmental preservation. Occasional live entertainment provides a perfect soundtrack for a stroll along the wooden walkways that line the old quarry. GO: Open year-round; watch for the Fall Festival each October. cedarlakeswoodsandgarden.com

IN THE ROLLING farmland of the Cuyahoga River Valley north of Akron stands a stunning representation of an English Tudor manor. It was built by F. A. Seiberling, a co-founder of Goodyear Tire and Rubber, and his wife, Gertrude, on land that included an old sandstone quarry.

BEST SHOW: The English garden, designed by landscape architect Ellen Biddle Shipman, was restored in the 1990s. The resulting garden, with 3,300 perennials, is an accurate, complete re-creation of Shipman’s original design for the area and is one of the only intact Shipman gardens open to the public. The lych-gate, the beautiful reflecting pool, and the Garden of the Water Goddess statue provide the framework for this uniquely charming space.

IN THE KNOW: The quarry, which became a beautifully landscaped lagoon, also gave the estate its name——stan hywet means “stone quarry” in Old English. Upon Seiberling’s death in 1955, the family gave the property to the Akron community, including the manor, the Corbin Conservatory, and the gorgeous gardens. GO: Open year-round but closed on Mondays; watch for dog-friendly “woof walks” on Sundays from May through October. stanhywet.org

Photo: Bloedel, Tada

BLOEDEL CONSERVATORY

VANCOUVER, BC

CEDAR LAKES WOODS AND GARDENS

WILLISTOWN, FL

STAN HYWET HALL AND GARDENS

AKRON, OH

Step Back in Time

Certain gardens focus on a particular period of time or honor a horticulturist or botanist—here, garden history opens a living window into our larger, shared past.

PUBLIC GARDENS

THIS 16-ACRE garden in central Halifax has barely changed since it opened in 1867, the year of Canadian Confederation and the 30th year of the reign of Queen Victoria. The original planting design and traditions, from the peak popularity of ornate Victoriana, remain intact. A red-roofed bandstand was added in 1887 to celebrate the Queen’s Golden Jubilee.

BEST SHOW: The gardens are known for their “carpet beds”— closely planted and clipped dwarf flowers and plants that create special floral “paintings” each season.

IN THE KNOW: The public gardens— created by piecing together two adjoining gardens, a swampy piece of wasteland, and a bequest from an estate—are one of the finest surviving examples of a Victorian garden in North America.

GO: Open year-round; admission is free. halifaxpublicgardens.ca

HISTORIC BARTRAM’S GARDEN

PHILADELPHIA, PA

FOR MORE THAN 5,000 years, people have lived along the banks of the tidal Schuylkill River in southwest Philadelphia. To gardeners, the most notable resident was John Bartram (1699–1777), considered the greatest botanist of the 18th century in America. Bartram’s was the first botanic garden in the country. The gardens, the stone house where the family lived, and the rich land along the river are preserved by the John Bartram Association and Philadelphia Parks and Recreation.

BEST SHOW: The 14-acre Botanic Garden within Bartram’s 50 acres comprises plant species collected, grown, and studied by the Bartram family from 1728 to 1850. The layout and plant collections draw from historical records of the garden.

IN THE KNOW: Bartram explored the East Coast from Canada to Florida and west to the Ohio River, collecting seeds and plants to propagate in his garden. He and his sons, William and John Jr., introduced hundreds of plants and seeds to Europe; domestic customers included George Washington and Thomas Jefferson.

GO: Open year-round; admission is free. bartramsgarden.org

COLONIAL WILLIAMSBURG

COLONIAL WILLIAMSBURG is vast—— and packed with historical reenactments and archeological projects. Gardeners make a beeline (just like bees do) for the gardens, where 18th-century tools, methods, and wisdom create bumper crops of vegetables and flowers.

BEST SHOW: The Colonial Williamsburg Arboretum and Gardens display rare and unusual varieties of heirloom vegetables as well as a collection of heirloom roses and fruit. Staffed by interpreters and garden historians, it features a botanic garden of North American and European herbaceous plants and an herb garden with examples of culinary, medicinal, and household herbs used by the colonists.

IN THE KNOW: Native American and West African influences are strong throughout the gardens and grounds, and the costumed gardeners weeding and digging are more than happy to explain what they are growing (and why) and to put a visitor to work.

GO: Open year-round; the 78th annual garden symposium will be held in April. colonialwilliamsburg.org

WILLIAMSBURG, VA

HALIFAX

HALIFAX, NS

JARDINS DE MÉTIS, REFORD GARDENS

WHERE THE BEAUTIFUL Métis River empties into the lower St. Lawrence River on the Gaspé Peninsula, Elsie Reford began in 1926 to improve her uncle’s salmon fishing camp, which she had inherited. She was 54 years old and not an experienced horticulturalist, so she enlisted the help of local residents, hiring them to move rocks and trees, build garden beds, and lay walls and walkways—— providing much-needed employment during the Depression. She bought compost materials——sand, peat, leaves, and more——from area farmers to create the fine soil required for the unusual plants she imported from around the world.

BEST SHOW: Reford Gardens is famous for the Himalayan blue poppies (Meconopsis betonicifolia) that bloom in late spring and early summer; successfully growing these difficult plants was one of Reford’s proudest accomplishments. The property’s proximity to the river and the sheltering effects of the towering white spruce trees along its banks tempered Gaspé’s harsh winters and created a warm microclimate where Reford coaxed more than 500 native and imported perennials to grow.

IN THE KNOW: These are the northernmost public gardens in North America and a National Historic Site of Canada.

GO: Open weekdays year-round; open daily during the International Garden Festival, held from late June through September. jardinsdemetis.com/en

Learning Landscapes

LUTHER BURBANK HOME AND GARDENS

SANTA ROSA, CA

A CONTEMPORARY of Henry Ford and Thomas Edison, Luther Burbank introduced more than 800 new varieties of plants in his lifetime. America’s foremost plant breeder, Burbank used his home and gardens in downtown Santa Rosa as his lab. The property offers children’s tours as well as medicinal gardens where 100 volunteer guides share their love of garden history.

BEST SHOW: The greenhouse was designed by Burbank and includes a replica of his office where he conducted his groundbreaking work with crossbreeding as well as a display of his original tools.

IN THE KNOW: If you have ever cut an armful of Shasta daisies, eaten a plumcot, or tasted a ‘Russet Burbank’ potato, you have touched a tiny part of Burbank’s work.

GO: Open year-round; admission is free, as is the cell phone audio tour. lutherburbank.org

Starting around the time of the Renaissance, botanical (or botanic) gardens were carefully planted and labeled to show the relationships between plant families and to group medicinal herbs and plants (these were often called physic gardens). As the science of botany developed—and the exploration of the New World revealed many new plants—the number of botanical gardens around the world exploded. Modern botanical gardens often include carefully labeled plants, strong educational and scientific programs, and special gardens devoted to one plant family.

MONTREAL BOTANICAL GARDEN

OPENED to the public in 1931, this vast garden, one of four attractions in Montreal’s nature-based museum district (called Space for Life), has one of the most diverse plant collections in the world with 10 yearround greenhouses and more than 20 seasonal, themed gardens.

BEST SHOW: The Garden of Innovations showcases new trends in ornamental horticulture and annually presents new cultivars of annuals, perennials, trees, and shrubs that are newly or soon available to Quebec gardeners.

IN THE KNOW: The gardens are still expanding. Among the more recent additions are an insectarium and Chinese-, Japanese-, and First Nations–themed gardens.

GO: Open year-round; Montrealers sometimes visit simply to sit under the arboretum’s magnificent trees. espacepourlavie.ca/en/botanical-garden

Images; Christopher Chung; Tommy

GRAND-MÉTIS, QUE

MONTREAL, QUE

BOERNER BOTANICAL GARDENS

DESIGNED by landscape architect and University of Wisconsin alum Alfred Boerner on 40 acres that were formerly part of Whitnall Park, the Boerner features more than a dozen themed gardens—plus garden trial beds—that fulfill the original mission: to provide education in horticulture and a four-season place of respite and beauty for city dwellers of all ages. All plants are observed for their hardiness in the Great Lakes zones.

BEST SHOW: The spectacular rose garden was created by noted rosarian William Radler (breeder of the ‘Knock Out’ line of roses).

IN THE KNOW: Spectacular floral exhibits (don’t miss the peonies in June!), evening and winter shows, and a 3-acre children’s garden—complete with playhouse, troll bridge, and interactive bug sculptures—will delight visitors of all ages.

GO: Open from early May until late October. boernerbotanicalgardens.org

THIS 385-ACRE garden is a liv ing display of plants that thrive today in the Midwest as well as the vegetation that previously grew in the Prairies. For example, the Dixon Prairie recreates the windswept grasslands of the 1800s, while berms, hills, and water features define a series of unique garden areas.

BEST SHOW: A series of native prairie environments, with their distinctive grasses and wildflowers, are accessible by boardwalks. In late summer, the grasses are burnished to gold and studded with purple asters and ironweed.

IN THE KNOW: The themed gardens—from an English walled garden and a sensory garden to a rose garden and an enabling garden—are accessible by walkways or a tram. GO: Open year-round; look for free plant giveaways from mid-May through early October. chicagobotanic.org

LIKE THE city that surrounds it, the Denver Botanic Gardens are an oasis of greenery on the dry High Plains of Colorado. The city gardens range from the verdant wonders inside the Boettcher Memorial Tropical Conservatory to lush outdoor shade gardens, internationally inspired theme gardens, and the play-friendly Mordecai Children’s Garden.

BEST SHOW: The Alpine Garden is one of the finest in the U.S., featuring true alpines (plants found in high mountain environments above the tree line), chasmophytes (plants that dwell in rock crevices at any elevation), and facultative alpines (plants below the tree line that mimic alpine plants in their growth habit to cope with conditions).

IN THE KNOW: Outside of the city, the Botanic’s companion, Chatfield Farm, is a 700-acre working farm, plant research center, native plant refuge, and hot spot for bird watchers.

GO: Open year-round; plan ahead to take advantage of free admission days throughout the year. botanicgardens.org

HALES CORNER, WI

CHICAGO BOTANIC GARDEN

GLENCOE, IL

DENVER BOTANIC GARDENS

DENVER, CO

Walks on the Wilder Side

Some public gardens simply resist classification—such as the nation’s largest herb garden in Washington, D.C., a “lush desert” garden in Arizona, or the only rainforest in the continental U.S. (it’s in Florida).

U.S. NATIONAL ARBORETUM HERB GARDEN

WASHINGTON, DC

ARIZONASONORA DESERT MUSEUM

TUCSON, AZ

THE SONORAN DESERT claims to be the lushest desert on earth, and the gardens at the Desert Museum (85 percent of which are outdoors) illustrate that with more than 2,000 species of plants. Thanks to rainfall in two seasons (Pacific Northwest winter rains and Gulf of California summer monsoons), trees, grasses, wildflowers, and cacti thrive.

BEST SHOW: Palo Verde trees and Saguaro cacti, along with other legume trees and columnar cacti, punctuate the landscape.

IN THE KNOW: The accompanying zoo, nature museum, aquarium, and other facilities, plus docent-led tours of the gardens, create an allday adventure.

GO: Open year-round, though not all facilities are available on all days. desertmuseum.org

THE NATIONAL HERB GARDEN at the U.S. National Arboretum, described as “the largest designed herb garden in the country,” features a massive collection of herbs arranged in themed gardens, single genus collections, and seasonal displays. It’s educational, too: Ample signage provides information on the properties and traditional uses of herbs.

BEST SHOW: Each spring, the collection’s thousands of blooming azaleas turn the flanks of Mount Hamilton into one of Washington’s most colorful attractions.

IN THE KNOW: The garden, a gift from the Herb Society of America to the people of the United States, was dedicated in 1980.

GO: Open year-round; just across the street from the National Bonsai & Penjing Museum. usna.usda.gov

FAIRCHILD TROPICAL BOTANIC GARDEN

HERE, near the southern tip of Florida, the Fairchild has created the closest thing to a tropical rainforest that can be found in the continental U.S. The garden is named for renowned plant scientist and explorer David Fairchild, who retired in the 1930s to Florida, where he connected with Col. Robert Montgomery, Marjorie Stoneman Douglas, and others to collect rare and endangered tropical and subtropical plants from around the world and arrange them in magnificent gardens set around 11 lakes and ponds. Look for the silk floss tree, the cannonball tree, or the ancient African baobab tree that was planted by Fairchild himself.

BEST SHOW: The Sibley Victoria Pool water garden was created to display Victoria water lilies. Native to South America, Victoria amazonica, V. cruziana, and the hybrid of these two species have massive, saucer-like leaves with upturned edges. They bloom summer through fall with flowers that last two nights——first opening white and then turning reddish pink on the second night.

IN THE KNOW: The tree canopy overhead shelters an array of rainforest plants from around the world, watered by a high-pressure fog system.

GO: Open year-round; check the website for their busy schedule of themed events. fairchildgarden.org

Photos: Fairchild, Aleksandr Dyskin/Shutterstock; Arizona-Sonora, Park Chasers

CORAL GABLES, FL

Glass Houses

Any gardener in the winter doldrums—tired of frozen ground and inhospitable weather—will benefit from a few hours inside a conservatory thick with beautiful flowers and summertime humidity. Try it!

MUTTART CONSERVATORY

FOUR GLASS PYRAMIDS rise above the North Saskatchewan River valley in Edmonton—they’ve been a local landmark since 1976, and, in any season, represent an extravagant oasis in the prairie landscape. Inside, three climate-controlled pyramids are devoted to a specific biome—tropical, temperate, and arid—and the fourth hosts seasonal shows and massed floral displays.

BEST SHOW: Something beautiful is always blooming inside the tropical dome with its huge array of banana trees, orchids, birds of paradise, and other exotics, like hibiscus, beneath a stunning canopy of palms.

IN THE KNOW: The conservatory was built as a memorial to entrepreneurs Gladys and Merrill Muttart, who donated $1 million in the 1950s to start construction of the botanical gardens. GO: Open year-round, with evening hours on Wednesdays and Thursdays. edmonton.ca (click on Attractions & Events)

HERSHEY GARDENS CONSERVATORY

FOELLINGERFREIMANN BOTANICAL CONSERVATORY

FORT WAYNE, IN

TWO

GARDEN-LOVING Fort Wayne friends, newspaper publisher Helene Foellinger and attorney Bill Sowers, joined forces to raise money for the three glass houses and four outdoor gardens in the center of the city. The Botanical Conservatory opened in 1983 and has grown to encompass tropical, desert, and temperate zone plants from around the world, a plant rescue center, classes for kids on seeds and compost, field trips, and summer camps.

BEST SHOW: With its cascading waterfall, towering palms, coffee trees, banana trees, and koi fish, the Tropical Garden is always a highlight.

IN THE KNOW: An on-site café features coffee beans from small growers.

GO: Open year-round; guided tours are available daily. botanicalconservatory.org

THE ORIGINAL conservatory on this site was built by the famous chocolatier Milton Hershey and his wife, Catherine, on a hill overlooking their beautiful rose garden. That garden became the heart of Hershey Gardens, opened to the public in 1937. Entry is through a conservatory featuring a butterfly house.

BEST SHOW: Lush tropical flowers and trees, including a cacao tree (of course), provide nectar year-round in the Butterfly Atrium, where hundreds of butterfly species from around the world alight on visitors’ shoulders.

IN THE KNOW: Educators explain the life cycle of butterflies and offer “Cocoa Cart Conversations” to demonstrate how the cacao tree, pollinated by the butterflies, produces the beans used to make chocolate.

GO: Open year-round; a visit to the “town that chocolate built” also offers 23 acres of public gardens and other attractions. hersheygardens.org

(continued)

EDMONTON, ALTA

HERSHEY,

AMARILLO BOTANICAL GARDENS

AMARILLO, TX

ON THE DUSTY and dry plains of West Texas, a group of local women banded together in 1929 to form the first garden club in the town. The group persevered, even through the Dust Bowl, and expanded. In 1968, a new Garden Center in Medical Center Park was built, and this has expanded into Amarillo’s beautiful public gardens.

BEST SHOW: The Mary E. Bivins Tropical Conservatory, filled with orchids and other tropical plants, is a pyramid-shaped building with self-sustaining energy systems.

IN THE KNOW: Bivins was a local civic leader, who with her husband, Lee, ran one of the world’s largest cattle operations in the early 1900s and went on to become significant benefactors of Amarillo. The Mary E. Bivins Foundation carries on their philanthropy today.

GO: Open year-round, but closed Sundays in the winter. amarillobotanicalgardens.org

Puttin’ on the Ritz

Industrial and shipping fortunes of the 19th century left a gardening legacy. Generations of Carnegies, Rockefellers, and Vanderbilts—and their rich friends—turned their attention from making money to spending it, building country estates with vast gardens. These were largely the works of landscape architects trained in European traditions who were hired to show that American gardens could be just as classy as those across the pond.

MARJORIE K. DAUGHERTY CONSERVATORY AND LAURITZEN GARDENS

LOOKING as if it were growing out of a hillside, the four-tiered glass conservatory at Lauritzen Gardens features a gradual 20-foot elevation rise inside, until the visitor ascends to a dramatic view across the Missouri River Valley below. A family foundation gave the lead gift for the conservatory in honor of Marjorie K. Daugherty, an avid gardener and supporter of the 100-acre landscape.

BEST SHOW: Built in 2014, the conservatory was designed as a walkable work of art for all seasons showcasing more than 3,000 plants year-round, from tropical to temperate to seasonal displays.

IN THE KNOW: One of more than 20 themed gardens, The Song of the Lark Meadow, named for the short story by Nebraska author Willa Cather, flows with wildflowers and native grasses. The diversity of the native plants—from black-eyed Susans to plains coreopsis, lemon mint to red corn poppies, and yarrow to blanket flower—transforms the colors of the meadow throughout the season.

GO: Open year-round; for those with mobility issues, tram tours and private, guided golf cart tours are available for a fee. lauritzengardens.org

A SHORT DRIVE from New York City, this 200-acre property was founded by John “Jay” Phipps, whose father was a business partner of Andrew Carnegie (think “steel”). Run as a nonprofit since 1959, the estate and gardens host programs and exhibits for all ages.

BEST SHOW: In spring, the bulbs are spectacular. The original gardens were heavily planted in spring and autumn specialties (the Phipps family summered in Europe or Canada and wintered in Florida). Gardeners continue the tradition and plant 7,000 bulbs each fall.

IN THE KNOW: So many people use the lovely backdrop as the perfect place to propose marriage that there are special rules—no signs, props, music, alcohol, or balloons! GO: Open April through October, admission includes the Westbury House. oldwestburygardens.org

Photos: Amarillo, Visit Amarillo; Marjorie K. Daugherty, courtesy of Visit Omaha

OMAHA, NE

OLD WESTBURY GARDENS

LONG ISLAND, NY

HATLEY PARK AT ROYAL ROADS UNIVERSITY

HATLEY PARK and Castle, on the grounds of Royal Roads University, is the legacy of industrialist James Dunsmuir (think “coal mines”). Known both for his immense wealth and ruthless business practices, Dunsmuir spared no expense in building his baronial retirement home on Vancouver Island in 1908. The 140 acres of gardens and grounds, designed by Brett and Hall of Boston, are maintained in the grand style. Stands of lush, old-growth forest surround the estate.

BEST SHOW: June is the time to see the Rose Garden, featuring pathways built in concentric rings surrounding a sundial.

IN THE KNOW: A National Historic Site, the estate is located on the traditional lands of the Lekwungen-speaking Peoples, the Songhees and Esquimalt Nations. The castle now houses the administrative offices of Royal Roads University.

GO: Open year-round; 1-hour, guided walking tours include the first floor of the castle. hatleypark.ca

BILTMORE ESTATE

TO BUILD his country place, George Washington Vanderbilt II, grandson of wealthy patriarch Cornelius Vanderbilt (think “shipping”), acquired 125,000 acres in the southern Blue Ridge Mountains. The 75 acres of formal and naturalistic gardens near the mansion contain the best of old and new varieties, plus a conservatory, miles of hiking trails, and scenic stops that provide information about the vision of Frederick Law Olmsted, who designed the gardens and parklands as his last and most glorious work.

HUNTINGTON BOTANICAL GARDENS

THIS 130-ACRE property comprises a wide variety of themed gardens that include rare and endangered plant species. The gardens—along with the estate’s library and art museum—are the beneficiary of the wealth of Henry E. Huntington (think “railroads”), who bought a 600-acre ranch in the San Gabriel valley northeast of Los Angeles in 1903, built a Beaux Arts mansion and a private railroad spur, and began accumulating books, art, and especially plants.

BEST SHOW: Make time to wander through the ethereal Japanese garden, the 5-acre Australian garden, a formal herb garden, an interactive children’s garden, and the famous Desert Garden that contains one of the largest collections of cacti and other succulents in the world.

IN THE KNOW: The main gardener, William Hertrich, traveled the world in search of perfect plants for 16 themed gardens. Hertrich was a genius at devising the appropriate conditions for every category of plant.

GO: Open year-round but closed on Tuesdays; the first Thursday of every month is free admission. huntington.org ■

BEST SHOW: Late April through early May, see a million blossoms in one of the country’s finest azalea collections via a network of pathways throughout the 15-acre Azalea Garden.

IN THE KNOW: The home, believed to be the largest private residence ever built in the U.S. (it has more than 4 acres of floor space), and a residual 8,000 acres of woodlands are still in private hands and open to the public.

GO: The resort is open year-round with lodging and dining options onsite. biltmore.com

recently rambled

Susan Peery

Linnaeus’ orderly garden in Uppsala, Sweden, and the wilder one in Visby, Gotland.

VANCOUVER ISLAND, BC

ASHEVILLE, NC

SAN MARINO, CA

TRY THESE “BLUE RIBBON” PLANTS TO CREATE SERENE SCENES BY THE EDITORS

Calm, cool, and collected. Studies show that this is how the color blue——including blue flowers——can make us feel. One study showed that taking a break to look at flowering plants for 3 minutes a day may provide strong, immediate, positive effects on human well-being; notably, blue flowers had the greatest ability to enhance participants’ feelings of relaxation compared with flowers of other colors. This is a great reason to bring one or more of these blue beauties into your life. Trust us——these new varieties will perform and may also work their colorful magic on your mood.

Photos: Proven Winners

WIT & WISDOM

The genus name Evolvulus comes from the Latin word evolvo, meaning “to untwist or unravel,” because members of this genus do not twine.

MORNING BLUES

The dwarf morning glory hybrid ‘Blue My Mind’ (Evolvulus) is a tender, nonvining perennial hardy in Zones 9 to 11 and more often grown as an annual. Its brilliant, blue flowers spill over fuzzy, oval-shape, silver-green leaves. As an annual in containers, its trailing stems often grow horizontally or downward, dangling over a basket’s edge; as a perennial ground cover, it meanders over stone walls, and its sprawling mounds spread in flower beds.

The plant grows to a foot tall and rambles up to 2 feet. Flowers usually close up at night and on cloudy days. It is droughttolerant with no known serious problems with insects, other pests, or diseases. (continued)

WIT & WISDOM

The name “delphinium” is derived from the Greek word delphis, which means “dolphin,” as the closed flower buds were thought to resemble a dolphin’s nose.

The centers of delphinium flowers are called bees.

PERENNIALLY BLUE

Sapphire-hued floral spikes will add the perfect blue notes to your highsummer garden—and bring out butterflies and other pollinators, too. ‘Blue Nile’ delphinium (Delphinium elatum ‘Blue Nile’) grows up to 51/2 feet tall and is a short-lived perennial, lasting 3 to 5 years in the garden. These delphiniums are hardy in Zones 3 to 7, thrive in full sun, and need protection from high winds. They like pH-neutral to slightly alkaline, fertile soil enriched with plenty of compost or composted manure—and they require staking.

They are poisonous. If their seeds and/or seedlings are ingested, they can cause nausea and paralysis and, in some cases, prove fatal.

Photo: Tim Gainey/GAP Photos

BLUE ZONE FRUIT

Honeyberry (Lonicera caerulea) goes by many names, including haskap, blue honeysuckle, and sweetberry honeysuckle. Although relatively new to North American home gardeners, honeyberries have a history on the Japanese island of Hokkaido, where people have been eating the fruit for hundreds of years.

The plants are native to boreal forests in North America and Japan, as well as to Russia’s Kuril Islands. Honeyberries from each of these regions have been classified as separate subspecies with distinct differences in traits, such as productivity, time to maturity, uniformity of ripening, and tendency to drop berries when ripe.

These fruit look like elongated blueberries and taste like a cross between a blueberry and a raspberry. They can be eaten fresh or made into jams, juice, sauces, syrup, and wine. They bear yellow flowers very early in the spring and produce fruit in early summer, usually before strawberries ripen. Hardy in Zones 2 to 8, honeyberries grow up to 4 to 6 feet tall as well as wide—with no suckering or thorns—and need only minimal pruning. (continued)

WIT & WISDOM

Honeyberries are higher in antioxidants and vitamin C than blueberries.

BLUE SUEDE HUES

With their mopheads and usefulness in many garden situations, bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) flaunt old-fashioned charm and ever-improving color; varieties abound (with breeders offering more options every year).

The quest for the truest of blues has reached its current apex with ‘Blue Enchantress’, which varies in color from sky blue to lilac and deep bluepurple, depending on soil acidity.

Grow and enjoy these blue friends in group plantings, shrub borders, and containers—they can tolerate almost any type of soil.

‘Blue Enchantress’ grows 3 to 5 feet tall, has hardy flower buds, and blooms reliably year after year. We love its deep ruby-black stems, too. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9. ■

WIT & WISDOM

The name “hydrangea” is derived from the Greek words hydor, meaning “water,” and angeion, meaning “vessel,” in reference to the plant’s seedpods, which look like small water jugs.

Photo:

From icy pink to easy, breezy light blue, Let’s Dance Sky View reblooming hydrangea brings a sunrise-inspired palette to your landscape or garden. And, of course, it has been trialed and tested to ensure it blooms reliably every season, year after year. Look for Let’s Dance Sky View reblooming hydrangea in the distinctive white Proven Winners ® container at your local garden center, or learn more at ProvenWinnersColorChoice.com

PLANTING POINTS

A

CHAKRA GARDEN HELPS TO TAP INTO YOUR BODY’S WISDOM AND THE

ABY JANE HAWLEY STEVENS

s an herbalist, I see how plants support the systems of the body to promote wellness and lessen pain and disease. I realize how the earth teaches us to care for it—and for ourselves—if we listen.

One spring, after a harsh, snowless winter, I headed out to check on my perennial herbs. Every row of beautiful Mediterranean herbs was dead—lavender, sage, and thyme. After 3 years of having improved the soil, I assumed that it was still fertile ground—but, suddenly, here was a blank slate. What should I create in its place?

In the garden, there is always renewal. Soon after, a friend gave me a book about the chakra system that was illustrated with beautiful drawings. The images spoke to me and inspired a new garden.

The chakra system is a method of organizing body systems into seven sections. Chakra, the Sanskrit word for “wheel,” refers to how energy flows through the body and evolves as it moves up the spine. This multilayered method helps us to consider how our bodies are connected to colors, emotions, intentions, and plants.

I am inspired by the interconnectedness of this system. Every person experiences the emotional upsets of life, which in turn affect our bodies. Herbs and other natural remedies can help to bring us back into balance in the same way that viewing a sunset can create calm.

I planted a medicinally potent, educational sanctuary based on the design of the chakra system. This became a meaningful way to teach others about chakras in a beautiful, energized, scented, and textured setting. Many of my visitors and students have only read about herbs and natural remedies, so my garden is their first encounter with these plants. (continued)

OF ENERGY

HEALING POWERS OF HERBS AND FLOWERS

● The first chakra begins at the base of the spine and represents our roots, our tribe, and where we come from.

● This expands to the sexual organs and circulatory system in the second chakra.

● Ascending to the solar plexus is the third chakra, holding our personal power.

● The fourth chakra represents our heart, a place where we can transform our earthly desires into good works for all.

● We bring forth these messages of hope and love through our fifth chakra, which is settled in our throat area.

● We gain knowledge to share and inspire in our head or brow, represented by the sixth chakra.

● The seventh chakra is located in the crown or top of our head. Here, we acquire knowledge through insights and messages from our higher self.

FIRST CHAKRA: WHERE YOU COME FROM

BODY: base of the spine, legs, feet, bones, large intestine, genetics

KEYWORDS: root, support, survival

INTENTION: “I am”

COLOR: red

PLANTS: dandelion (Taraxacum officinale), red sage (Salvia miltiorrhiza), and schisandra (Schisandra chinensis) support

healthy blood flow and general tonifying; plantain (Plantago) and comfrey (Symphytum officinale) support healthy bones and tissues

SECOND CHAKRA: ATTRACTION OF OPPOSITES

BODY: womb, genitals, kidney, bladder, circulatory systems

KEYWORD: creativity

INTENTION: “I feel”

COLOR: orange

PLANTS: peony (Paeonia), lily (Lilium), and wild yam (Dioscorea villosa) support healthy

hormonal function; raspberry leaf (Rubus idaeus) tonifies reproductive organs

PEONY

WILD YAM

LILY

Illustration: Tetiana Yatsyshyna/Getty Images. Photos, clockwise from top left: Geshas/Getty Images; ChWeiss/Shutterstock; Iryna Boiko/Getty Images; tc397/Getty Images; H. Zell/Wikimedia;

COMFREY

RED SAGE ROOT

SCHISANDRA

CHAKRA BASICS

FOURTH CHAKRA: COMPASSION, LOVE

BODY: heart, lungs, arms, hands

KEYWORDS: connection, heart, love

INTENTION: “I love”

COLOR: green

PLANTS: lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), hawthorn (Crataegus oxyacantha), motherwort (Leonurus cardiaca), and lemon verbena (Aloysia citrodora) support heart function with their calming and joy-enhancing qualities; balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorus) and mullein leaf (Verbascum thapsus) support the lungs (continued)

THIRD CHAKRA: WILLPOWER

BODY: navel, digestive system, muscles, immune system

KEYWORD: personal power

INTENTION: “I do”

COLOR: yellow

PLANTS: St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), milkvetch (Astragalus membranaceus), codonopsis (Codonopsis pilosula), and goldenseal (Hydrastis canadensis) increase willpower through healthy immune function with enhanced energy

Photos, from top, left to right: Meindert van der Haven/Getty Images; letty17/Getty Images; fotolinchen/Getty Images; Lora

YARROW

ST. JOHN’S WORT

PURPLE CONEFLOWER

LEMON BALM

MULLEIN LEAF

HAWTHORN MOTHERWORT

FIFTH CHAKRA: COMMUNICATION, CREATIVITY, HEARING

BODY: throat, neck, thyroid, shoulders, ears

KEYWORDS: speaking truth, verbal expression

INTENTION: “I speak”

COLOR: sky blue

PLANTS: coltsfoot (Tussilago farfara), elecampane (Inula helenium), blue violet (Viola sororia), thyme (Thymus vulgaris), and licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) soothe the throat

SEVENTH CHAKRA: UNDERSTANDING, KNOWLEDGE

BODY: top of head

KEYWORDS: knowledge, insight

INTENTION: “I know”

COLOR: violet

PLANTS: holy basil (Ocimum tenuiflorum) rue (Ruta graveolens), white sage (Salvia apiana), and Aztec tobacco (Nicotiana rustica) are traditional ceremonial plants used in many cultures worldwide

SIXTH CHAKRA: TO KNOW, PERCEIVE

BODY: brow, eyes, center of head

KEYWORD: inspiration

INTENTION: “I see”

COLOR: indigo blue

PLANTS: blueberry (Vaccinium) and black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) support strong eyesight; mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris) and rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) promote clarity and vision

Photos, from top, left to right: jagi11/Getty Images; skymoon13/Getty Images; Pixabay;

VIOLET

THYME

ELECAMPANE

WHITE SAGE RUE

HOLY BASIL

MUGWORT

BLUEBERRY

TIPS FOR BUILDING YOUR OWN CHAKRA GARDEN

Chakras are organizational centers for the reception, assimilation, and transmission of life-force energy. They are the stepping stones between heaven and earth. –Anodea Judith, American writer (b. 1952)

You don’t need much space to create a healing sanctuary. Your chakra garden could be an 80-foot-long formal garden or a collection of potted plants on a porch. Keep in mind that my list of plants corresponding to each chakra might differ from your list because many plants can support each of these chakras. What grows well in your region? Do you have sun or shade? Keep in mind agricultural requirements to promote your success and the beauty of your efforts.

■ Be sensitive: When choosing plants, consider what would you like to see, smell, or use for their inherent benefits. Which body system needs support? As you

THE WISDOM OF ELDERS

research herbs and their uses, pay attention to those that catch your attention or come up frequently in your pursuit. Intuition can play an important part in herbalism, once you can properly identify the plants. Remember, have fun! Nature is playful and wants to play with us.

■ Be curious: After choosing a plant—even a single potted one— get to know it well. Engage all your senses—sight, smell, taste, touch, and hearing—and stay alert for any insights. I suggest that you select at least one from which you can make tea (such as holy basil, rosemary, or sage—or my favorite, lemon balm). Watch for subtle shifts of support from your power plant.

■ Be grateful: Nature understands

ritual as a method of showing gratitude. Magic has happened in my chakra garden, and I can go there to weed sections when I need support in various aspects of my life. I encourage you as gardeners to find a way to show gratitude to Mother Nature, who sustains us. This could be by doing something as simple as offering a bit of Aztec tobacco or cornmeal on the autumnal equinox along with a bouquet given to Earth. ■

Jane Hawley Stevens is the author of The Celestial Garden (Chelsea Green Publishing, 2023) and is the co-owner of Four Elements Organic Herbs, a 130-acre organic farm in the Baraboo Bluffs area of Wisconsin.

One spring, I was weeding the first chakra section of the garden. There, I had planted a rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa), displaying the color red of the first chakra and representing the love in a family (with some prickles). It was flourishing! That spring, an American black elderberry bush (Sambucus canadensis) was emerging right next to it, but I could not bear to weed it out—–I love elderberry because every part of the plant is useful. I walked away, not knowing what to do. Shortly thereafter, I realized that this was the “elder,” planting itself front and center in the first chakra and representing our roots—–perfect placement! The rose and elder cohabitate beautifully to this day, sharing space, glory, and meaning.

BLOOMS FOR

A DOZEN EASY-DOES-IT FLOWERS FOR A CUTTING GARDEN

BY ROBIN SWEETSER

MEALY CUP SAGE

‘Victoria Blue’ mealy cup sage (Salvia farinacea) is a stunning cut flower. These beauties produce deep blue, 6- to 8-inch-long flower spikes all summer and well into fall. Plants are 18 to 24 inches tall and 12 inches wide; space them a foot apart. Pick when the blossoms at the bottom of the spike have opened.

BEGINNERS

The beauty of the summer garden is gone too soon. While blooms are abundant, prolong the joy by surrounding yourself with bouquets of freshly cut flowers. If you’re afraid that harvesting blooms from your flower beds will leave them looking bare, plant a cutting garden full of flowering annuals in part of your vegetable patch or an out-of-the-way spot. Then pick flowers to your heart’s content!

My partner, Tom, has been growing and selling cut flowers for many years. Here are his top 12, easy-to-grow favorites. Not only will the blossoms delight you, so will the guests they attract—— bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and other pollinators that drink nectar and feed on pollen. (continued)

‘SENSATION MIX’

MARIGOLD

COSMOS

‘Sensation Mix’ cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) has single flowers 3 to 4 inches across. For double the petals try the 2- to 3-inch-wide ‘Double Click Mix’. Plants grow up to 4 feet tall, holding their pink, white, or cranberry flowers on long, wiry stems. Plant them 9 to 12 inches apart. Cut when the petals begin to open.

Marigolds are a mainstay for bouquets and a musthave for celebrations such as Diwali and Day of the Dead. There are loads of marigold varieties to choose from. We love heirloom ‘Harlequin’ (Tagetes patula) for its unique gold and mahogany pinstriped petals. The 2-inch-wide single flowers are borne on long stems that are perfect for cutting. The airy plants are 2 to 3 feet tall and spread 11/2 to 2 feet across. Plant them a foot apart. Pick when the flowers are fully open. African marigolds (T. erecta) have large, 4- to 5-inch-wide, round, double pom-pom-type flowers in gold, orange, or yellow. Try ‘Crackerjack Mix’ to get some of each color. The bushy plants grow 2 to 3 feet tall and should be planted 8 to 12 inches apart. Harvest doubles when blooms are fully open but the center is still tight.

COCKSCOMB

‘Pampas Plume’ cockscomb (Celosia argentea var. plumosa) produces 6-inch-tall, soft, feathery plumes in red, yellow, pink, and gold. A member of the Amaranthaceae family, the branching plants grow 3 to 4 feet tall and thrive in hot, humid weather. Space them 6 to 12 inches apart. The longlasting flowers can be used fresh or dried. Pick when they are fully developed.

CUT FLOWER PRESERVATIVE

You will need . . .

1 gallon water

1 tablespoon sugar

2 tablespoons lemon juice or white vinegar

2 teaspoons bleach (optional)

Pour water into vase.

Mix in sugar and lemon juice.

Add bleach (if using).

Place freshly cut flowers into vase.

Remake cut flower preservative each time water is changed.

‘PAMPAS PLUME’

DAHLIA

‘Showtime’ dahlia (Dahlia variabilis), also called ‘Showpiece’, can be grown from tubers or seed. We like the mix of colors. When grown from seed, they reach up to 4 feet tall and are covered with lots of showy, 3- to 4-inch-wide blooms in late summer when other flowers have begun to wane. Stalks can be brittle, so stake the plants to keep them from snapping. Cut when the flowers are almost fully open.

FLOSS FLOWER

‘Blue Horizon’ floss flower (Ageratum houstonianum) is a lavender to purplish-blue hue that goes with anything. A member of the Compositae family, this beauty grows 24 to 30 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide. Space plants 10 to 12 inches apart. Harvest when their fuzzy, flat flowers are almost fully open.

CHINA ASTER

‘Sea Star’ is just one variety of China asters (Callistephus chinensis) we grow. They produce full, fluffy doubles—the centerpiece of any bouquet. Grow a mix of colors—pink, purple, lilac, blue, and white. The plants mature at 2 feet tall. Grow them about a foot apart. ‘Opus’ is another beauty with peony-like white flowers that have petal tips brushed with lilac. Cut your asters as the outer petals begin to open. (continued)

‘SHOWTIME’

‘BLUE HORIZON’

‘OPUS’

PLANT A PLOT OF POSIES

SEED: We start all of our flowers from seed indoors—weeks before the last frost date for our area—so that they will be ready to go out when the weather warms up. Sunflowers can be direct seeded, and you can grow dahlias from tubers for earlier blossoming.

SOIL: “Soil is the key,” says Tom, so send off a soil sample to be tested and add the recommended amendments. Make sure your plot is well-draining and has plenty of organic matter. Don’t go overboard on fertilizers; most flowering annuals do better in leaner soil. Too much nitrogen encourages the growth of lots of greenery instead of flowers. The planting scheme is up to you. We use 3-foot-wide raised beds that can be harvested from both sides for ease of picking.

SUN: Annuals need a lot of sun, so pick a place that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Plan ahead when planting so that taller flowers will not shade shorter ones.

SUPPORT: To keep our stems growing straight, we suspend nylon netting horizontally over the beds so that the plants can grow up through the mesh. Taller or more brittle plants, such as dahlias, get staked individually.

SNIP: Cut early in the morning when plant tissues are firm and not wilted, and use sharp scissors to make clean cuts. For prolonged vase life, harvest your flowers before they are fully open. Cut the stems as long as possible so that you will have something to work with when arranging. Place flowers in a pail of water as you cut them.

SOAK: Bacteria can cause your flowers to wilt—so remove any leaves that would be submerged in the vase because they will rot. Change the water every other day, recutting the stems each time. Flowers last longest in acidic water (pH 3.0-5.5). You can use a commercial floral preservative or make your own. A balance of acid, sugar, and bleach is all that’s needed.

CONEFLOWER

‘Indian Summer’ coneflower (Rudbeckia hirta) looks like a black-eyed Susan on steroids—with huge single and semidouble yellow blossoms spanning up to 9 inches across on a 3-foot plant. For showy doubles in autumn shades of gold and bronze, try ‘Cherokee Sunset’, which can reach a height of 30 inches. Both of these rugged plants were All-America Selections winners and have long, sturdy stems that need no staking. Plant them 12 to 18 inches apart. Tender perennials, they might surprise you and return to bloom again next year. Pick before the blossoms have completely opened.

GLOBE AMARANTH

‘Strawberry Fields’ globe amaranth (Gomphrena haageana) is our top choice, but there are many other varieties of this annual to choose from. All are grown the same way; the only difference is the color of the blossom. ‘Strawberry Fields’ is bright red, while other varieties are shades of pink, bright orange, white, purple, or carmine. These flowers have longlasting, 11/2-inch-wide, round, papery flowerheads that can be used fresh or dried. The plants grow 18 to 30 inches tall. Space them 8 to 12 inches apart. Pick the flowers when they have developed their color.

‘INDIAN SUMMER’

‘STRAWBERRY FIELDS’

ZINNIA

‘Benary’s Giant’ zinnia (Zinnia elegans) is the ultimate zinnia for cut flower production, according to the Association of Specialty Cut Flower Growers. We buy our favorite colors separately—there are 12 to choose from—but a mixed packet will give you plenty of variety. I’m in love with ‘Salmon Rose’! Plants can grow up to 4 feet tall with 4- to 5-inch-wide, double blossoms. Space them 12 inches apart. These plants are branching—so the more you cut, the more flowers will be produced. Pick them before the blooms are completely open and the stems are firm below the blossom, otherwise the heavy heads can flop over.

SUNFLOWER

SNAPDRAGON

‘Rocket’ snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus) is one of many that we grow. The mix of lovely colors includes gold, white, red, pink, yellow, and orchid. For fancy double florets, try ‘Madame Butterfly’—its blooms resemble azalea blossoms. Both varieties are very reliable, bloom all season long (into late fall), and can withstand a light frost. Plants grow 2 to 3 feet high and can be planted 12 inches apart. Bumblebees love them! Pick when half of the blossoms at the bottom of the flower’s stalk are open.

‘Goldy Double’ sunflower (Helianthus annuus) is one of our preferred double-flowering varieties because the 7-inch-wide flowers are packed with golden petals and do not produce much tablecloth-staining pollen. After being cut and placed in a vase, these flowers hold their petals much longer than single-flowering varieties. Plants grow 5 to 6 feet tall and 21/2 feet wide. For a more traditional-looking single, we grow ‘Soraya’. It is a little shorter—but still grows to at least 5 feet—and sports 4- to 6-inch-wide blossoms with golden petals surrounding a brown center. ‘Soraya’ also produces a minimal amount of pollen and has a long vase life. Both are multibranching types that produce more flowers as you cut. It is recommended to plant them at least 2 feet apart for good air circulation. Harvest when the flowers start to open.

Don’t forget the greenery! Ornamental grasses such as ‘Frosted Explosion’ (Panicum elegans) make your bouquets pop! ■

Robin Sweetser, garden columnist for New Hampshire Home magazine, writes a gardening blog for Almanac.com. She lives and gardens

in Hillsborough, New Hampshire.

THE GRASS IS GREENERY

‘MADAME BUTTERFLY’

‘BENARY’S GIANT’

‘GOLDY DOUBLE’

‘FROSTED EXPLOSION’

Vertical gardening and edible landscaping are hot trends in horticulture. Put the two together to maximize your garden space with striking vertical displays of edible vines. “Growing up” is a wise choice for small backyards, patios, and balconies.

Growing food through vertical gardening yields more benefits than just saving space. Vining fruit and vegetables are easier to maintain and harvest–—and there’s little or no need to kneel or bend down. Plants grown off the ground receive superb air circulation and increased sun exposure, which can mean fewer diseases. Edible vines can become a focal attraction on a trellis in a small garden plot or cover an unattractive wall. If grown as a living wall, vines can provide shade and privacy. Some vines may wind around a tree or stretch their way along a fence if allowed.

There are many options for most gardening zones, including vines for vegetables and fruit, as well as edible leaves, flowers, and roots. Common pole beans and peas are well known and simple to grow, but here are a few less common vines to try–—some propagate easily, establish themselves quickly, and provide food for years.

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT

SCARLET RUNNER BEAN

With beautiful clusters of red flowers, as well as edible leaves and pods, scarlet runner bean (Phaseolus coccineus) is a great source for dried beans. The vine looks very similar to that of pole beans.

Native to Mexico and Central America, by the 1700s, the plant was being grown in early American gardens for food. Today, it is frequently grown as an ornamental because of its showy red flowers. In mild climates (Zones 7 to 11), the vine is a perennial, forming edible tuberous roots that can overwinter. Its heartshape, dark green leaves serve as a backdrop to red flowers that attract hummingbirds and bees. To encourage continued flowering, keep the pods picked. This rapid grower can reach 10 feet or more in length.

Its edible young leaves and flowers have a beanlike flavor and can be used in salads. The young green pods are delicious steamed or sautéed. The beans inside the pods can be boiled and eaten while still light pink or left in the pods to dry. The dried purpleand-black–speckled beans have a nutty flavor and need a long soaking before cooking.

Grow scarlet runner beans in full sun in rich, moist soil with plenty of organic matter. Seeds can be sown before the soil has warmed in the spring and will germinate in 7 to 14 days. Place poles or other support near the seeds at the time of sowing. Although this vine is normally grown as an annual in colder regions, its tuberous roots can be dug up in the fall and stored in a cool, damp location for replanting in spring. (continued)

Photos: above, PhotoEngland/Getty Images; opposite, Josie Elias/Getty Images

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR GARDENING SPACE WITH HELP FROM THESE VIGOROUS VINES BY

MARE-ANNE JARVELA

& VEGETABLES

WE GOT MARRIED in a fever, hotter than a PEPPER SPROUT.

–Jerry Leiber and Billy Edd Wheeler, American singer-songwriters (1933–2011; b. 1932), in “Jackson”

CHAYOTE

ROCOTO PEPPER

The rocoto pepper (Capsicum pubescens) is a vining hot pepper that can reach 8 to 10 feet tall. The plant produces lots of small yellow, orange, or cherry-red peppers that are perfect for adding heat to your favorite recipes.

Plant the seeds outdoors in a sunny spot with welldraining soil. Train the branches to grow vertically by providing sturdy support. If protected from heavy frost and freezing, the pepper plant will grow for years. In cold regions, you can overwinter it indoors as a houseplant. This pepper has hairy leaves, beautiful purple flowers, and black seeds.

Also called mirliton, vegetable pear, chou chou, and xuxu, chayote (Sechium edule) is a warm-season tender perennial. This squash relative produces a pale green to white, flat, pear-shape fruit that tastes like a nutty squash. Young shoots, leaves, mature tubers, and the fruit are all edible.

Chayote is extremely easy to manage and cultivate. Stems that grow from a tuberous root can reach up to 40 feet in length. Leaves resemble those of the maple, and in late summer to early fall, small, light green to white flowers appear.

Plant a sprouted fruit 3 to 4 weeks after the last frost in spring, when the weather has warmed. Chayote needs bright sun and rich, well-draining soil. It grows best in tropical or subtropical regions where summer temperatures are hot; chayote requires 120 to 150 frost-free days to mature. You can grow it as an annual in cooler regions by starting plants indoors and using protective covers to extend the growing season. Train the vines onto a sturdy trellis (an arched one is ideal).

RAINBOW CHERRY TOMATOES

Rainbow mix cherry tomatoes are indeterminate vining types that can grow up to 10 feet tall! The mix of seeds includes different varieties of cherry tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme) that will be about the same size and ripen at the same time. The seeds will typically produce pink, red, yellow, orange, purple, green, and bicolored small fruit. Start tomato seeds indoors and plant the seedlings outside in a sunny location when they are about 6 inches tall. Make sure to grow the plants on tall supports to keep the tomatoes off the ground.

Photos, from top: Tim Gainey/Alamy Stock Photo; Ombee Ly/Shutterstock; Seeds Day

MALABAR SPINACH

A tender perennial Asian vine, Malabar spinach (Basella alba) has hot pink stems and big, glossy green leaves that are perfect in salads and stir-fries. The cultivar ‘Rubra’ has attractive burgundy stems and leaves with pink veins. Malabar spinach is not related to our common spinach and loves hot weather. It can be grown as an annual in regions prone to frost. This fastgrowing vine can grow up to 10 feet long.

The edible leaves have a mild peppery flavor, with a hint of lemon. The young leaves can be eaten fresh in a salad, steamed, or sautéed, just like regular spinach. Once the plant starts flowering with small white to pink flowers, the leaves become bitter. The flowers are followed by ornamental purple to black berries. The berries are indeed edible—but very bland in taste.

The vine grows best in full sun and fertile soil that is kept moist throughout the growing season. Support the plant with a sturdy trellis. For dense growth, prune the plant by cutting off some of the leaves and stems.

STURDY SUPPORTS

There are many ways to support a climbing vine. Some vines, like pea plants, have tendrils that grab on to netting or strings between poles, while others, such as pole beans, wind their stems around poles and sticks. Consider how tall the vine will grow and the weight of the fruit or vegetables before selecting the support. It’s important to train vines onto their supports before they grow too long.

For structure, use trellises, lattices, netting, arches, fences, wire cages, tripods, or branches from shrubs. Vines—— as well as fruit and other woody trees and shrubs —— can also be trained to grow on a flat structure such as a wall or fence, creating what is known as an espalier (also the name of the practice of doing so).

HARDY KIWI

Grown for its attractive foliage and fruit, hardy kiwi (Actinidia kolomikta; A. arguta) blooms in early summer with clusters of small, fragrant, white flowers. This perennial vine can be grown for fruit even in northern climates. The sweet, grape-size berries have thin, smooth, edible skin and a taste similar to that of the bigger fuzzy kiwis that you find in grocery stores.

Hardy kiwi grows best in a sunny location with well-draining, fertile soil. Most kiwi berry varieties need one male and one female plant for proper pollination. The ‘Issai’ kiwi berry is self-pollinating and tends to bear fruit earlier than some varieties.

The fast-growing woody vines can reach 30 feet tall and need a strong support structure, such as an overhead pergola or extra-sturdy trellis similar to what is used for grapes. Pruning is important for managing growth and creating an open framework to allow access to airflow and sun. Hardy kiwi vines usually start producing fruit in 3 to 5 years. (continued)

SWEET POTATO

Usually grown for its delicious yellow, orange, or purple tubers, sweet potato (Ipomoea batatas) has decorative vines that can be trained to grow on a trellis and can reach to 20 feet tall. In late summer, you may find beautiful clusters of white and purple flowers on top of the vines. The young green shoots, stems, and leaves are all edible. Cook the tender stems and leaves just like you would spinach. Do not use the larger tough stems.

Grow sweet potatoes from slips (sprouts from last year’s tubers) or buy slips online or via mail order. Plant them in full sun, in loose, well-draining soil to which you’ve added compost. Weave the vines through a trellis as they grow. Keep the main stem intact and harvest young shoots and leaves on the side stems. Harvest the sweet potato tubers when the plant’s leaves begin to turn yellow, before the first fall frost.

The ornamental sweet potato vine is a different variety of I. batatas. This vine is most often planted for its attractive green or purple foliage, but its leaves and small roots are indeed edible.

HE COULD FIDDLE all the bugs off a SWEET-POTATO-VINE.

–Stephen Vincent Benét, American poet (1898–1943), in “The Mountain Whippoorwill”

LOOFAH GOURD

The plant famous for producing fibrous sponges, loofah (Luffa aegyptiaca) can be eaten raw when the fruit is picked young. Roast the small gourds or add them to a stir-fry. Native to Southeast Asia, the tender vine is a cousin to cucumber and summer squash.

In midsummer, beautiful, edible yellow flowers will be followed by small green gourds. For eating, harvest the gourds when they are 4 to 6 inches long. When growing loofah for a sponge, leave it on the vine until it is lightweight and the yellowish-brown skin begins to dry out. Peel the loofah, and you’ll find a fibrous sponge inside. Rinse the sponge with water and hang it to dry completely in the sun. Shake out the black seeds inside the sponge and save them to plant next year.

Plant loofah seeds after the danger of frost has passed. If you live in Zones 6 or colder, start seeds indoors 5 to 6 weeks before transplanting. Loofah grows best in fertile, well-draining soil in full sun. This vigorous annual vine can climb to more than 10 feet tall, so provide a sturdy support.

PRUNING POINTERS

■ Prune mature vines to manage their growth and promote air circulation.

■ Remove any damaged, diseased, or dead stems.

■ Remove tangled or crossing stems.

■ Remove stems growing away from the support.

■ Prune to guide the direction of a vine’s growth.

■ Remove a few old stems each year from perennial vines to allow the plants to direct their energy to younger stems.

PURPLE PASSIONFLOWER

Also known as maypop, purple passionflower (Passiflora incarnata) is a perennial vine. Some varieties can withstand mild frosts and survive as far north as Zone 4. The plant has unique flowers with petals that have wavy, hairlike segments and attract butterflies and other pollinators. The three-lobe leaves are dark green on the surface and whitish underneath. The vine produces large, edible, yellow-orange berries in the fall that can be eaten fresh off the vine or made into jelly. The leaves can be dried and used for tea.

Purple passionflower is a fast-growing vine that can climb up to 20 feet by using its tendrils. It spreads by root suckers and can cover a large area. The vine is tolerant of drought and thrives in average, welldraining soil in full sun to part shade. A sturdy support is needed to keep the vine from sprawling on the ground. Because passionflowers are tricky to propagate from seed, for best results, start a transplant when the soil has warmed in the spring. ■

Things are looking up for

MINI CUCUMBERS

‘Quick Snack’ mini cucumber (Cucumis sativus) is meant to be grown in a container. Place the pot in an area that receives full sun. Even though it is a miniature plant, it will do best if given support to climb. The almost 2-foot-tall plant produces crispy cukes in 3 to 4 weeks if planted from seed or 1 to 2 weeks from a transplant. For best flavor, harvest these cukes when they are 2 inches long.

Mare-Anne Jarvela, who tends vines in her New Hampshire hillside garden.

THE 2024 PEAR

RECIPE CONTEST WINNERS

STYLING AND PHOTOGRAPHY: SAMANTHA JONES/VAUGHAN COMMUNICATIONS

FIRST PRIZE: $250 PEAR, WALNUT, ARUGULA, AND GORGONZOLA TARTLETS (recipe on page 88)

SECOND PRIZE: $150 PEAR-FECT SALAD (recipe on page 88) (continued)

THIRD PRIZE: $100 PEAR-NOLI CUPS (recipe on page 88)

HONORABLE MENTION

MAPLE PEAR

BREAKFAST STRATA (recipe on page 88) (continued)

COOKING FRESH

FIRST PRIZE

PEAR, WALNUT, ARUGULA, AND GORGONZOLA TARTLETS

12 small flour tortillas

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter, softened, divided

1 large pear, cored and thinly sliced 1/2 cup Gorgonzola cheese

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

1 cup chopped baby arugula

1/2 cup chopped dried cranberries honey, for drizzle walnut oil, for drizzle (optional) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Lightly butter six tortillas, then top each with another tortilla. Lightly dampen each tortilla stack with water, then pinch and twist the edges closed all the way around. Use remaining butter to spread a thin layer on top of each stack and place on a baking sheet. Bake for 6 minutes. (Alternately, you can bake directly on oven rack.)

Remove from oven and evenly top tortillas with pears, Gorgonzola, and walnuts. Bake for 4 minutes.

Remove from oven and evenly top tortillas with arugula, cranberries, and a drizzle of honey and walnut oil (if using). Season with salt and pepper. Makes 6 servings.

–Elizabeth Abdallah, San Francisco, California

SECOND PRIZE

PEAR-FECT SALAD

2 cups freshly diced pears

1 cup fresh blueberries

1/2 cup chopped candied pecans

2 tablespoons crumbled feta cheese

Tajín seasoning or chili lime seasoning, to taste greens, for serving (optional)

In a bowl, combine pears, blueberries, and pecans. Stir to incorporate. Add feta and Tajín seasoning and toss, being careful not to overmix and mash feta. Serve over greens (if using).

Makes 6 servings.

–Venita Willis, Ellicott City,

Maryland

THIRD PRIZE PEAR-NOLI CUPS

CRUST:

8 waffle cones, finely crushed 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) salted butter, melted

FILLING:

6 pear halves in heavy syrup, drained, patted dry, and diced small 1 / 8 teaspoon ground cinnamon 3/4 cup mascarpone cheese 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/4 cup mini chocolate chips

For crust: Place 6 cupcake liners in a muffin tin.

Reserving 1 tablespoon of cone crumbs for topping, place remaining crumbs in a bowl. Add butter and stir to fully combine. Divide mixture evenly into prepared cupcake liners. Press crumbs into bottom and up the sides of each liner. Refrigerate for 5 minutes, or until crust has hardened.

For filling: In a bowl, combine pears and cinnamon.

In a separate bowl, combine mascarpone, vanilla, and chocolate chips.

Add an even amount of pear mixture to each cup. Add an even amount of mascarpone mixture to each cup. Top each cup with reserved crumbs. Chill and serve. Makes 6 servings.

–Regina MacIntyre, Shelby Township, Michigan

HONORABLE MENTION MAPLE PEAR BREAKFAST STRATA

1 pound day-old brioche bread, cut into small cubes

1 can (16 ounces) sliced pears, drained, reserving 1/4 cup juice

8 ounces maple breakfast sausage links, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 cups shredded Gouda cheese

6 eggs

13/4 cups whole milk

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg confectioners’ sugar, for topping (optional)

Spray a 13x9-inch baking dish with cooking spray and arrange bread cubes in dish. Add pears.

Cook sausage links, drain, then add to baking dish. Sprinkle Gouda over all.

In a bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, reserved pear juice, salt, and spices. Pour over bread mixture and press down. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Preheat oven to 350°F.

Remove baking dish from refrigerator while oven preheats. Uncover and bake for 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool slightly, then sift confectioners’ sugar over strata (if using). Serve warm.

Makes 8 servings.

–Sharon

Ricci, Carthage, North Carolina

SPINACH RECIPE CONTEST

Send us your favorite recipe using spinach. The recipe must be yours, original, and unpublished. Amateur cooks only. Enter at Almanac.com/Garden-Guide-RecipeContest or send your recipe to Garden Guide Recipe Contest, P.O. Box 520, Dublin, NH 03444. Include your name and mail and email addresses. We will pick three winners and award cash prizes: $250 for first prize, $150 for second prize, and $100 for third prize. The deadline for entries is June 30, 2025. All entries become the property of Yankee Publishing, which reserves all rights to the materials. Winning recipes will appear in the 2026 Garden Guide and on Almanac.com. ■

$1 Marketing Giveaway for Garden Guide Readers Who Love Olive Oil

As a Garden Guide reader, you qualify to receive a free $39 bottle of rare, fresh-pressed extra virgin olive oil direct from the new harvest at one of the world’s top artisanal farms. Pay $1 shipping and it’s yours free as your introduction to the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club, with no commitment to buy anything, now or ever.

If you’ve never tasted extra virgin olive oil fresh from the farm, get ready for a revelation...

As the culinary experts at America’s Test Kitchen have said, when it comes to olive oil, “the fresher, the better.”

Freshness endows olive oil with extraordinary ﬂavor because the olive is a fruit and olive oil is a fruit juice. Just like other fruit juices such as orange juice, olive oil is at its zenith of robust ﬂavor and nutritional goodness when fresh-pressed.

Your ﬁrst taste of freshpressed olive oil will be a revelation. Just born of earth and tree, farm-fresh olive oil is bright, vivid, and grassy, like a garden in a bottle.

Problem is, you can’t ﬁnd farm-fresh olive oil in supermarkets. That’s because most olive oils are sent here by slow cargo ships, perhaps months or even a year after the harvest in their native country. Then these oils sit on store shelves for more months, even years, growing dull, lifeless, stale, and ﬁnally rancid.

Never again tolerate stale oil!

Of course, we all insist on fresh milk, fresh eggs, fresh ﬁsh, fresh meat, fresh fruit, and fresh vegetables. In every case, freshness makes a big difference in ﬂavor and nutrition, right?

Don’t we deserve fresh olive oil? Of course! But you’ll never ﬁnd it in supermarkets. However, now you can have it delivered to your door direct from the latest harvests at top-rated, gold medal-winning artisanal farms.

At last, a farm-to-table solution

My name is T. J. Robinson. As a food writer and former chef, I’ve launched an exclusive club for those who, like me, demand nothing less than the freshest, most ﬂavorful, and purest artisanal olive oils in the world. Our group is called the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club.

How the club works

Four times a year, I travel to the latest olive harvests around the world. From scores of the ﬁnest extra virgin olive oils at awardwinning artisanal farms, I choose the three best oils of the harvest. Then I rush a three-bottle set to each of my eagerly awaiting club members. Conveniently, this works out to one bottle per month.

Members can choose either the larger set (three 16.9 oz. bottles) for $139 per quarter, or the smaller set (three 8.45 oz. bottles) for $99 per quarter. These prices include all shipping and handling.

For this reasonably modest sum, you’ll enjoy 3 months of outrageously flavorful, farm-fresh olive oil rushed to you direct from the harvest. Members say these best-of-thebest fresh oils are well worth the cost, since each bottle elevates dozens of meals to new heights of dining pleasure.

Every oil is independently lab certiﬁed to be 100% extra virgin olive oil. Every oil also comes with a 100% money-back guarantee. You don’t even have to return the oil to receive your 100% refund.

Every oil arrives with a Pressing Report that helps you cultivate your palate, quickly

turning you into a connoisseur of the ﬁnest extra virgin olive oils in the world. I also include lots of delicious, kitchen-tested recipes from each oil’s native land, plus proﬁles of the proud artisans who produced each oil.

The club is truly an adventure in olive oil appreciation. Your family and guests will love these oils.

Available nowhere else in America, these oils have caused quite a sensation in the food world.

TV Chef Chris Kimball says: “When we tasted T. J.’s harvestfresh olive oils here at Milk Street, we fell in love with their vibrant, grassy ﬂavors.”

Food journalist Larry Olmsted writes in his best-selling book Real Food/Fake Food, “I now get most of my oil from T. J. Robinson’s Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club, and every time I open a bottle, my kitchen literally ﬁlls up with the smell of fresh-crushed olives—the scent explodes out of the bottle. Just breaking the seal transports me to Italy or Spain or Chile.”

“I have died and gone to Italy!!!” Jennifer of Newport, RI, reports, “I have died and gone to Italy!!! I love these oils.”

T. J. Robinson, aka “The Olive Oil Hunter®,” is one of the world’s most respected authorities on all matters of olive oil. Known for his “platinum palate,” he is one of the few Americans invited to serve as a judge in Italian olive oil tasting competitions.

Joy of Salem, OR, writes, “Words cannot describe this! Pssst—since no one else was around, I even licked my plate clean—yummy!”

Try a free full-size bottle and then decide All I ask is that you try one of my full-size bottles—on the house— and then decide. There’s no commitment to buy anything, ever.

The only reason we can make such a generous free-sample offer is because the vast majority of those who try our olive oil want more of it. I believe you will, too, once you try this divine, harvest-fresh olive oil on your crisp salads, delicate ﬁsh, grilled steaks, fresh veggies, or luscious pastas, or simply on a hunk of warm, crusty bread or with a slice of tangy cheese. Mmm—so delish!

Happy drizzling!

T. J. Robinson

prove-it-to-yourself offer: Try a full-size bottle (a $39 retail value) FREE. Pay just $1 shipping. No obligation to buy anything, now or ever. Supplies are limited.

IN THE NAME OF THE BEE AND OF THE BUTTERFLY AND OF THE BREEZE, AMEN! ––EMILY DICKINSON, AMERICAN POET (1830–86)

SERVE A BUTTERFLY BUFFET

Deliciously planned gardens fuel frequent fliers

BY TOVAH MARTIN

As a gardener, you do good things for the planet. Far beyond the beauty that you create, your stewardship makes a fateful difference for innumerable creatures great and small that cohabit with us on Earth.

Your garden teems with bugs night and day, and butterflies are among your flashiest customers in the insect realm. In addition to providing a critical piece in the eco-puzzle that makes our landscapes bloom, butterflies and moths (it’s a fine line between these lepidopterans) pollinate flowers. Butterflies desperately need our help: Five butterfly species have gone extinct in the United States since 1950, and 29 species are endangered. (See “The Plight of the Butterfly” on page 92.)

The good news is that you, as a gardener, can provide the habitat that these fliers need to survive, thrive, and reproduce. Scott Black, executive director of the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation and lead author of Gardening for Butterflies (Timber Press, 2016), points out that increasing their habitat is “a truly meaningful conservation project.”

You will be a good host if you can provide food for caterpillars and nectar for butterflies (caterpillars’ “adult stage”), as well as water or mud to quench their thirst and habitat for overwintering.

Every single plant helps. As Jeffrey Glassberg, founder and president of the North American Butterfly Association and author of A Swift Guide to Butterflies of North America (Sunstreak Books, 2012), explains, “If everyone planted their yard to be butterfly-friendly, it would make a huge impact. Bigger is better, but even one plant helps. It’s an act of kindness.” (continued)

THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT

The University of Derby (U.K.) conducted a study during the 2022 Butterfly Conservation’s Big Butterfly Count. Their findings were that counting butterflies reduces anxiety by 9%. “Even small periods of time spent watching and counting butterflies are beneficial,” according to researcher Dr. Carly Butler.

HUNGRY CATERPILLARS

What do butterflies need? Starting from the moment they hatch, caterpillars require plants that they can nibble. Some species eat a varied diet while others are more specific—and those “specialists” can become quickly imperiled if their larval food host is nowhere to be found. Although we usually associate flowers with pollinators, expand your focus beyond flowering annuals and perennials. Skippers and satyrs lay their eggs on ornamental grasses, while some duskywings seek out oaks. To make a butterfly’s day more efficient, plant multiples. Glassberg suggests, “If you’re only going to put in two plants, make them both the same [species].”

THE PLIGHT OF THE BUTTERFLY

The numbers are mind-numbing: According to NatureServe’s 2023 Biodiversity in Focus Report, the United States hosts 638 species of butterflies and skippers, 16% of which are at risk. Even more startling, populations of once-prevalent species are diminishing by 1% to 2% a year, according to Black. That loss might not sound critical, but as he points out, “Two percent adds up to a significant decline over 20 years, and that should serve as a wake-up call.”

Why are butterflies flitting away? Life for a butterfly is a precarious balance. Issues include habitat loss, climate change, insecticide and herbicide usage, and competition from invasive plant species diminishing butterflies’ target menu. All of those factors are impeding a broad range of butterflies. Monarchs might be the poster child for threatened species, yet they are just one symptom of ecosystems that are out of balance.

BLESS THE MESS

Create places that can protect butterflies (and their eggs and cocoons) from the elements—habitats such as leaf piles, wood piles, and dead trees. Andrew Brand, director of horticulture at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, offers advice that every overextended gardener longs to hear: “Don’t be meticulous about cleaning up. A log pile can be a place where a mourning cloak adult can overwinter. They find protection in the crevices of stacked wood. Even tree leaves can shelter a butterfly in a downpour.”

PROVIDE PUDDLES

Brand reports that butterflies are all about puddles. “It’s not only about moisture; they also take advantage of the minerals and nutrients in mud. After a rain, you’ll see butterflies in the mud—it’s called ‘puddling.’”

A FOUR-SEASON FEAST

Most importantly, you need to play host throughout the seasons, including winter. During the growing season, that means keeping flowers flowing from spring through late autumn and leaving stems standing that might be sheltering eggs. Although you might not see butterflies until daytime temperatures rise above 55°F, another life cycle might be in progress out of sight.

THE MENU

When you are ready to welcome colorful customers to your garden bistro, serve these favorites and you’ll enjoy the confetti of beauty that butterflies and moths provide, plus you’ll be giving these creatures a better shot at survival. Black says it’s usually a case of “create a garden and they will come.” To make your buffet particularly efficient (and popular with the local fliers), consider targeting butterflies native to your region. “Pick up a book on regional butterflies, then match host plants that are also native to your region,” Black recommends. Although it might be tempting to focus on imperiled butterflies, he suggests, “think about attracting common butterflies first.”

PARSLEY, CARROTS, AND GOLDEN ALEXANDERS

Who doesn’t love swallowtails? These large, prevalent butterflies feature forked tails, hence their name. The caterpillars are attired with black and yellow stripes that encircle their bright green bodies. Keep them coming back for more: They love to munch on members of the carrot family. Late in the season, you might find them noshing on everything from the parsley in your pots to the golden alexanders (Zizia aurea) in your meadow.

MILKWEED FOR MOMS

With harrowing haste, once-plentiful monarchs have declined across America so dramatically that the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service is considering protecting them under the Endangered Species Act. A single common milkweed plant (Asclepias syriaca) can make a difference to the life cycle of a monarch, feeding her caterpillars.

Monarch moms prefer to scatter single eggs throughout a neighborhood rather than putting all her eggs in one “basket.” Another plus: Native milkweed contains toxins that make caterpillars distasteful to predators. The queen butterfly is closely related to monarchs, and though it prefers warmer regions of the country, it also dines on milkweed. Native milkweed tiger moth larvae invite themselves to the milkweed all-you-can-eat party, too. Resist the urge to pet their tufted bodies—like other tussock moths, they can deliver a nasty sting.

VIOLETS FOR PETITE PILOTS

Even if you don’t have a sunny yard, hosting a buffet in partial shade is an option. Plus, butterfly gardening can be about leaving “weeds” as well as adding the right garden plants. Let your violets wander freely and fritillaries will feast. The giant of the family, the Great Spangled Fritillary, can lay as many as 2,000 eggs on violets in autumn. The resulting spined caterpillars that hatch in spring might demolish an entire violet plant (or more) before transforming into showy, rusty-orange butterflies with black checkerboard-like markings. Donate a violet (or a few) to this good cause—they grow back in a flash. (continued)

THE CATERPILLAR DOES ALL THE WORK, BUT THE BUTTERFLY GETS ALL THE PUBLICITY.

––GEORGE CARLIN, AMERICAN COMEDIAN (1937–2008)

MASTER ASTERS

When you play host to hovering yard guests, providing feasts throughout the seasons is key. Asters (Aster) are a favorite snack of several caterpillars including pearl crescents, checkerspots, saddleback caterpillars (beware of their nasty sting!), and the appropriately named asteroids. Long before the flowers appear, your asters are doing their part as a food source. Later, asters provide nectar for innumerable butterflies to sip as a late season snack.

SPLENDOR IN THE GRASSES

The blades of native switchgrasses (Panicum), sedges (Carex), tufted hairgrass (Deschampsia cespitosa), and little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) can serve as nurseries for the caterpillars of the adorable skippers and satyrs that float around the garden. Beyond the beautiful plumes that native grasses carry, they also provide structure for skipper caterpillars, which produce silken threads used to roll themselves in the grass blades, creating protective nests.

BAPTISIAS, PLEASE

Duskywing and frosted elfin caterpillars feed on false indigo (Baptisia), lupine (Lupinus), and other members of the legume clan. Baptisias serve up a dream dinner for many other butterflies as well. The wild indigo duskywing, for example, focuses on baptisias for sustenance. However, this adaptable specialist has also learned to survive by nibbling crown vetch (Securigera varia), a related roadside weed. As for lupines, Brand warns gardeners that, in many cases, only native lupines are apropos; for instance, fancy hybrid Russell lupines (L. polyphyllus) often don’t do the trick.

TREE TREATS AND SHRUB HUBS

When we think about feeding butterflies and moths, we may not think of looking up—yet the fact is that trees and shrubs furnish quantities of food. Caterpillars of the ever-popular eastern tiger swallowtail munch on willow, wild cherry, magnolia, tulip trees, and green ash. The larvae of various hairstreaks avail themselves of pines, white cedar, Eastern red cedar, willows, hickories, oaks, and low-bush blueberries. Adults of elfins (related to hairstreaks) dine on nectar from blueberries and redbuds as well as perennials such as milkweed and lupines. Members of the admiral group (including the viceroy) utilize birches, poplars, and willows to rear their young. Spring and summer azures make good use of viburnums as well as other shrubs. A single tree or shrub can go far as a host for many fluttery friends and neighbors.

NECTAR IS SERVED

Flowering annuals and perennials play their part to keep pollinating diners satisfied—and providing them with goodies year-round is critical. For example, although the connection between milkweed and monarchs is wellknown, Rick Mikula, author of several books on butterflies, urges gardeners to add late-blooming plants, such as phlox (Phlox), to provide migrating monarchs with the late-season sustenance they need for their long journeys.

NONSTOP GNOSHING

Everyone agrees, you can make a butterfly’s life bliss by swooping in with the smorgasbord they need to survive. Go with bloomers that are native to your region, and butterflies will sip on the assemblage. Counteract habitat loss by cultivating a feast at your place that spans the seasons. Yes, you’ll see some chewed leaves. Sure, you might even see some decimated plants. But a whole lot of fluttering will be going on, thanks to you.

THE GUEST LIST

After you’ve “set the table,” here are the winged wonders likely to be waiting at your garden gate—along with some of their relatives!

BRUSHFOOTED BUTTERFLIES (NYMPHALIDAE)

Members of this large, diverse family include longwings, fritillaries, true brushfoots, admirals, and satyrs, which are named for their short brush-like forelegs that make this aerialist appear to have four legs instead of the usual six. Brushfoots are strong fliers; some, like the monarch, migrate long distances in spring and fall. Mourning cloak, pearl crescents, admirals, checkerspots, and viceroy are in this family; milkweed butterflies, including the monarch, are a tropical subfamily.

COPPERS, BLUES, AND HAIRSTREAKS (LYCAENIDAE)

Known as gossamer wings, butterflies in this family are tiny, with wingspans from 7/8 to 2 inches and iridescent wings. Spring azures and frosted elfins are in this family.

SKIPPERS (HESPERIIDAE)

Named for their quick, darting flight habits, skippers have stout, hairy bodies and well-rounded wings with tipped forewings. Of the more than 250 species in North America, most are shades of brown and orange. Duskywings are in this family.

SWALLOWTAILS (PAPILIONIDAE)

Large and colorful, with wingspans up to 51/2 inches, swallowtails often flutter their wings while feeding to keep their balance.

SULPHURS AND WHITES (PIERIDAE)

Medium-size butterflies with wingspans from 1 to 3 inches, sulphurs are named for their yellow coloration. Both male and female sulphurs are avid puddlers, while whites are strong fliers, but they do not wander. ■

Tovah Martin’s 7-acre Connecticut garden is all about butterflies and biodiversity. A member of the Connecticut Butterfly Association, she is continually increasing nectar and host plants to nurture as much wildlife as possible.

DUSKYWING

EASTERN TIGER SWALLOWTAIL SULPHUR

MOURNING CLOAK

BALTIMORE CHECKERSPOT

SPRING AZURE

–Brooklyn Botanic Garden: The Butterfly Gardener’s Guide, Ed. Claire Hagen (Brooklyn Botanic Garden, 2003)

BRANCHING OUT

DON’T GO OUT ON A LIMB . . . USE EXPERT ADVICE WHEN CHOOSING A TREE

THE BEST FRIEND ON EARTH OF MAN IS THE TREE. WHEN WE USE THE TREE RESPECTFULLY AND ECONOMICALLY, WE HAVE ONE OF THE GREATEST RESOURCES ON EARTH. –Frank Lloyd Wright, American architect (1867–1959)

BY GEORGE TRECINA

Every March, I visit my local nursery to check out the selection of trees. Breeders are constantly introducing new varieties. As a landscape designer with a horticultural background, I want to keep up, to share information with clients. With so many choices, gardeners may be hard-pressed to make selections—this is where I can help.

Trees create the framework for a property and are the first thing I consider in landscape design. Trees determine the pattern of sun and shade—and, depending on variety, can create root competition for understory plants—so a balance of trees and other plants needs to be maintained. (continued)

PLEASANT TREES

Over the years, I’ve planted more than 40 trees spanning 15 varieties on my 1/3-acre property, enabling me to observe long-term results. Among them is a kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa) that is more resistant to drought, extreme cold, and disease problems than flowering dogwood (C. florida). In the 1980s, I planted it in my front yard as part of a framework for my gardens. Considered a mediumsized tree at 15 to 30 feet, it occasionally requires an arborist to do a light canopy reduction. The kousa dogwood produces showy, white flower petals (technically bracts) in June— about a month later than the flowering dogwood—that bloom for about a month. The raspberry-like fruit that follow last a short time because birds devour them. The mottled bark is attractive, and the fall color is spectacular in shades of reddishpurple and scarlet. Hardy in Zones 5 to 8.

CHERRY ON TOP

My mother thought we should have a flowering cherry. After thumbing through catalogs, we chose ‘Shogetsu’ (Prunus serrulata). With delicate, double, pink to white flowers, it was an irresistible choice. After soaking its bare roots in a bucket of water for a few hours, I located it near the street.

The tree grows 15 to 20 feet high and wide. It’s impossible for passersby to miss the showy display in May. Shogetsu means “moonlight on the pine trees” in Japanese, and the variety has impressive credentials, receiving the prestigious Award of Garden Merit by England’s Royal Horticultural Society. Hardy in Zones 5 to 8.

TALL, SWEETGUM, AND HANDSOME

Because of space limitations, I wanted a narrow tree that would serve as a punctuation mark—something that would stand out but not shade surrounding plants. The ‘Slender Silhouette’ sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua) is by far the slimmest tree on my property. One guest described it as resembling “a vine on a telephone pole.” Nearly disappearing after leaf drop, this tree has an almost ethereal presence. The first plant died unexpectedly after a few years, but this species was worth a second try. Now about 40 feet tall and only 30 to 36 inches wide, this tree sways gracefully in the wind and is not prone to snow or ice damage.

Last fall, the star-shape, glossy green leaves showed off with combinations of yellow, red, and purple—although the yellow predominates in some years. This cultivar does not produce the spiky seedpods characteristic of the species that can create a mess in your garden and be painful underfoot. Hardy in Zones 5 to 9.

MADE IN THE SHADE

When neighbors removed their white pines on the south side of our house, I wanted to recreate their shade. Amur maackia (Maackia amurensis) was one of three trees I used. I discovered this Asian native at a nearby rare plant nursery. Don’t let the name intimidate you! Relatively unknown and scarce in the trade, this is an excellent, small, round-headed shade tree with a mature height of 20 to 30 feet and a 20- to 35-foot width.

Its compound leaves give Amur maackia an exotic, tropical appearance. Unfurling silvery-green and turning medium green in summer, the leaves drop green or brown in fall. This tree produces erect, narrow, spike-like clusters (4 to 6 inches long) of fragrant, dull white, pea-like flowers in June and July. The bark is an amber or copper color with patches of curly exfoliation and areas that look varnished. Hardy in Zones 3 to 7. (continued)

LANDSCAPING

TREE SHOPPING TIPS

SEE TREES: We all want to be well-informed buyers. Even though you may be anxious to take home babies (or have some grown-ups delivered), start by doing your homework. One of the best ways to select trees is to go on a walking tour of local neighborhoods. Take pictures of trees you find interesting, whether for form, flowering, foliage, bark characteristics, or a combination of features.

ASK QUESTIONS: Many homeowners may be willing to speak about the trees they’ve planted. Ask about the reasons for choosing particular species or varieties and when they were planted. Homeowners may volunteer other information as well. If a tree is healthy, you’ll know that it’s hardy in your zone.

SEE MORE TREES: Parks, college campuses, arboretums, garden conservancies, and local gardening events provide opportunities to investigate tree collections. In many cases, arboretums and college campuses identify trees with labels or offer self-guided maps. Tree identification apps can be helpful as well.

SHOP IN SEASON: You’ll want to shop and be ready to plant in early spring since trees are best planted while still dormant and establish better in cooler weather. Likewise, early fall planting—when the trees are going dormant—is good timing since the roots continue to grow and establish until the ground freezes.

THINK OUTSIDE OF THE BOX STORE: Big box stores and some nurseries tend to offer trees that are best sellers and few others; seek out nurseries that specialize in rare or lesser known trees.

LUCKY SEVEN-SON

On a late summer garden tour, I discovered a 15-foot tree filled with small, fragrant, white flowers that was nestled into the edge of a forest. The owner revealed it was a seven-son flower (Heptacodium miconioides). It’s classified as a large shrub or small tree, attaining a mature height of 18 to 25 feet and half that in spread. Trees with late-season blooms are at a premium in the Northeast, so this award winner was a must for my yard. I found the perfect spot near a south-facing bedroom window to replace a dying Norway maple. Over the course of about 10 years, the seven-son transitioned into a small tree as its shaded lower limbs died off.

The flowers attract hundreds of bees and other pollinators, creating an amazing aural experience. After the petals drop, red sepals (collectively called the calyx) create another dramatic look, almost like a second bloom. Long, narrow, peach-like leaves turn yellow in fall. The trunk has a whitishtan exfoliating bark, appearing as if a cat has used it as a scratching post. Hardy in Zones 5 to 9.

CLIENT FAVORITES

When housing developers level a wooded lot to accommodate construction, sometimes they retain a few token trees without their naturally close neighbors—which can render those left standing weak and spindly. Rarely do such trees make good specimens and they often become liabilities.

When clients are ready to add trees, here are my top recommendations in addition to the ones I grow.

DON’T LACK FOR A TREE LILAC

Clients were excited about two Japanese tree lilacs (Syringa reticulata) Although I was aware of this plant, the real inspiration for using it came from a small park in an adjoining town where seven had been planted in a semicircle. This tree can be grown as either a single- or multiple-stem plant. Unlike lilac shrubs (S. vulgaris) that top out at 12 to 15 feet, Japanese tree lilacs can attain twice that height and a spread of 20 to 30 feet. The fragrant flowers are always white. Tree lilacs bloom in June— later than their shrub and dwarf shrub counterparts—and can bridge the gap between early and late blooming plants. Hardy in Zones 3 to 7. (continued)

BARKING UP THE MAPLE TREE

The design for a Japanese-style garden for a business located in an industrial park called for a fountain near the entrance, but the client opted for a tree.

These gardens are known for using Japanese maple varieties, but the spreads of most wouldn’t work with the space restrictions. I was impressed with a local nursery’s selection of coral bark Japanese maples (Acer palmatum ‘Sango-kaku’), which can attain a height of 15 to 25 feet and a width of 15 to 20 feet.

This is a true four-season tree. The red-coral bark on its young branches intensifies during winter, and the pale green leaves have a unique red margin. In fall, the leaves turn a vibrant golden yellow. In warmer regions, the coral bark Japanese maple prefers afternoon shade. The blooms are inconspicuous, with the foliage providing all that’s needed. Hardy in Zones 5 to 8.

WEEPING WINNER

Many trees have weeping counterparts. One is the katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum). Having grown the standard form in my garden, I was anxious to recommend this smaller, weeping form, ‘Pendulum’, to a client as a focal point.

The heart-shape, blue-green leaves that turn gold in fall are similar across the species, but ‘Pendulum’ is slower growing, reaching 20 to 25 feet tall and 12 to 15 feet wide. Allow it to weep. Don’t plant shrubs beneath it—instead, continue to expand the mulch bed, removing sod as necessary as the tree matures so that you won’t need to mow beneath. Be aware that all katsura trees dislike drought conditions, which can produce premature leaf drop. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8.

DON’T BE SORRY——PLANT SORREL

The sourwood or sorrel tree (Oxydendrum arboreum) is a favorite small ornamental tree, at home in just about any landscape. I recommend it to clients who want something special. It has a narrow form, half as wide as tall, growing 18 to 25 feet under cultivation and even taller in the wild.

It tends to leaf out later than most trees, but the glossy green, compound leaves are just the beginning of the show! Starting in late June and continuing through August, this variety lives up to one of its common names, lily-of-the-valley tree— shooting out sprays of fragrant, white flowers at the terminals of the growing tips. Come fall, the display culminates in leaves that turn shades of red and orange. Hardy in Zones 5 to 9.

BLOW YOUR OWN HORNBEAM

The ‘Fastigiata’ European hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) is a narrow cultivar that has been around for a long time, though it is new to me. I saw a single specimen growing in a lawn and a long row of these in a street tree planting. The upright branches will not overhang the street where they might be damaged by large trucks and buses. I added one tree to a mixed planting with shrubs and perennials in two gardens.

This tall, relatively narrow tree expands with age and can grow 30 to 40 feet high and 20 to 30 feet wide. This is definitely a statement tree that could be used in multiples as a privacy hedge. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8. ■

George Trecina has developed many long-term gardening relationships through his business, Land Design & Horticultural Sales, in Meriden, Connecticut. He enjoys sharing his experiences with garden clubs throughout the Constitution State.

Photos; Nick Kurzenko/Alamy Stock Photo; University of Washington Botanic Gardens

GIVE THEM SHELTER

WHEN COLD WEATHER MOVES IN, MAKE ROOM FOR YOUR FAVORITE CONTAINER PLANTS

BY TOVAH MARTIN

SCOOP UP SOME HENS AND CHICKS, AND THEY’LL BECOME EASILY HOSTED HOUSEPLANTS. COME SPRING, YOU CAN SEND THEM BACK INTO THE GARDEN BEDS.

Photo: Kindra Clineff

IF I DON’T GET SOME SHELTER OOH YEAH, I’M GONNA FADE AWAY.

–Mick Jagger and Keith Richards, English singer-songwriters (b. 1943; b. 1943), in “Gimme Shelter”

THE PLANTS BEGGING TO BE BROUGHT IN PROBABLY FAR OUTNUMBER AVAILABLE WINDOW SPACES. YOU NEED TO BE REALISTIC (VERGING ON BRUTAL) WITH SELECTION.

From the front porch contingent that greeted bewildered passersby to the deck bedecked with blossoms, you went wild with containers this year. By autumn, they will have reached their crescendo—just in time for chilly nights to shut them down. Before you get separation anxiety, though, here’s the good news: A hint of the season’s beauty is sustainable . . . indoors.

We’re not saying that all plants are suitable for this, but you can indeed bring a medley of summer’s greatest hits into your home. Even a geranium hustled inside the night before a frost may help to fend off cabin fever. Plus, you stand a chance of sustaining the good feeling for months, maybe even keeping a favorite botanical companion alive until the following spring!

SAY GOODBYE

The plants begging to be brought in probably far outnumber available window spaces. You need to be realistic (verging on brutal) in your selection process. For the greater good, swallow hard and send sun-worshipping annuals like amaranths, heliotrope, nasturtiums, petunias, snapdragons, and zinnias to the compost pile. No matter how filled your home is with sun, there still won’t be enough for these denizens of summer. Since you won’t be able to satisfy their sunny disposition, they’ll limp along and probably come down with pests or diseases from the stress. Similarly, a few shade lovers like abutilons and fuchsias are high-maintenance indoors (and prone to pests). Skip the drama.

WELCOME WINTER HOUSEGUESTS

HARDY ANNUALS can be brought indoors to extend the season. Shepherd in begonias, coleuses, dusty millers, geraniums, and plectranthuses. Some annuals may last only a couple of months before petering out as the light recedes, but bringing them inside is worth the effort if you want to enjoy their short run as houseplants.

PERENNIALS like hens and chicks, little bluestem, sedges, and—believe it or not—mullein work well as unconventional houseplants. I’ve hosted sage, thyme, and winter savory on windowsills. Ferns of all types (including hardy ferns) are shoo-ins.

SLEEPERS: Got an angel’s trumpet that’s big, buxom, and blooming its head off? Or a hibiscus that’s in full swing? The bad news is that keeping this momentum going as a houseplant is doomed. These oversize, lightloving plants are bound to become stressed. But don’t give up entirely! You can cut angel’s trumpet and hibiscus back drastically (if they look like sticks with a few half-naked branches, you’re on the right path), bring them into a dark, barely heated garage or basement, prod them into sleep mode, and water them very lightly until spring arrives.

TUBERS: What about those calla lilies, cannas, and elephant ears (Colocasia and Alocasias) that were your summer stunners? Many tuberous plants can make the transition to houseplants, continuing their outdoor performance to keep cabin fever at bay. You can also nudge them into dormancy by letting the container go dry or shaking out the soil and storing the rhizomes in a cool, dark, dry place. This is the only way to go with dahlias: Wait until their foliage has been nipped by a light frost, cut off what remains of the growing stems, let the tubers dry for a few days, and then store them in crates filled with cedar shavings until spring. Tuberous begonias are destined to die back in autumn no matter how much you beg them to remain prime. Brush off the soil and roots from the tubers, dry them for a week on a tray, remove their stems, wrap them in newspaper, and store them until midwinter when it’s time for them to be jump-started—Valentine’s Day is a good target date.

CUT TO THE CHASE

Some of your plants might be a little too hefty to schlep indoors—like the hulking coleus that you’ve been babying throughout the warm season. There’s no need for a tearful goodbye—just take some cuttings! They’ll root easily if you dab the sliced bottoms with a touch of rooting hormone, tuck them into moistened potting mix, firm them in, and water them regularly. Geraniums (including scented types), ivies, peperomias, and plectranthuses are also a snap to root from cuttings. When roots begin to form, repot plants into larger containers filled with potting mix. (continued)

The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Guide Photos, clockwise from top left: Tovah Martin; Kindra Clineff; Tovah Martin; Tovah Martin

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DUSTY MILLER IS A WILLING WINDOWSILL WARRIOR. WISK CALLA LILIES INDOORS TO EXTEND THEIR PERFORMING SEASON—YOU MIGHT EVEN SEE FLOWERS. GIVEN WARM TEMPERATURES INSIDE, ELEPHANT EARS CAN MAKE THE LEAP INDOORS. PEPEROMIAS ARE EASILY PLEASED INDOORS.

IN

GENERAL, SOUTH-FACING WINDOWS PROVIDE THE MOST LIGHT. NORTH-FACING WINDOWS ARE A STRETCH FOR ANYTHING BUT FERNS, MOSSES, AND IVIES.

COME HOME FROM SUMMER CAMP

When you’re salvaging tender things, waiting until the 11th hour isn’t recommended. Weather forecasters can slip up, and just one degree can spell the difference between a healthy plant and a pile of mush—so plan ahead. Plus, most tender plants don’t love a sustained chill. Begonias and elephant ears are particularly sensitive to cold nights. Bring them indoors before nighttime temperatures regularly dip below 50°F. Other plants can usually tolerate a few 40°F nights without ill effects, but why push it? The more time you give a plant to acclimate to life indoors before the furnace starts roaring, the better.

REPOT OR NOT?

Do you need to repot? Autumn—when growth slows as light levels decrease—isn’t the best moment to graduate a potted plant. Exceptions are plants that are severely potbound. When in doubt, check the root system. If it has so densely filled the pot that you no longer see soil around the edges, then upgrade the plant into a 2-inch-larger container to prevent it from being continually thirsty.

SALVAGE SINGULAR SENSATIONS

How about all of those salubrious mixed containers that were your pride and joy? The sad news is that it’s curtains for your combinations. For greater success, break the root systems apart and replant each one that you’re salvaging separately in its own pot. Even if you have a picture window that might furnish enough light for all of these plants together, competition within a container is likely; display the same winning mix side by side.

DETER STOWAWAYS

Check for hitchhikers on your plants. This is a rationale for bringing winter guests inside during daylight and with time enough to check under leaves and on stems and soil surfaces. Chances are that you’ll find a stray slug, snail, or sow bug hoping to be adopted. They needn’t halt the rescue mission. Just remove them and carry on.

LET THERE BE ENOUGH LIGHT

The trick to happy campers indoors is placement. Don’t overcrowd. Careful spacing prevents plants from shad-

ing their neighbors. Check window exposures, positioning the sun-lovers where they bask in as much brightness as possible. This means placing them close to the windowpanes. In general, south-facing windows provide the most light. Lower-light plants that tolerate shade outdoors can take up the east- and west-facing windowsills or sit a little farther from the panes in a south window. North-facing windows are a stretch for anything but ferns, mosses, and ivies. If you run out of windows, LED lights are an option, but I prefer au naturel and utilizing my window space to the max.

HANDLE WITH CARE

You need to nurture your growing house companions over the long haul—or at least for the next several months before spring. If you are a forgetful waterer, your green guests will suffer (or worse). When should you water? Check each plant regularly to see if the soil is dry. Don’t wait until the potting medium is bone-dry, and don’t procrastinate until plants are fainting with wilt. Instead, water when the soil is slightly dry, filling the pot to the rim and allowing the water to seep in. Fertilizing is usually not necessary during the low light levels found between Thanksgiving and March 1. For the rest of the year, dilute your fertilizer according to the label directions and apply every 3 to 4 weeks. If you placed plants smartly from the start, they shouldn’t be stretching toward the light. Even so, it doesn’t hurt to rotate them when they’re receiving light from only one direction. Give them a half-turn every couple of weeks to make sure that all sides bask in sunbeams.

PROPAGATE!

When you live with plants, you come to appreciate their finer qualities—which may lead you to want to increase their numbers. Wait until the days lengthen in late winter to divide or take cuttings, depending upon the plant. By the time spring arrives, you’ll have all of the fixings for another showstopping outdoor container display right when it’s time to send your green guests back outdoors. ■

Every window in Tovah Martin’s Connecticut home is jampacked with plants rescued from outdoor summer camp.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SEDGE ADOPTED FROM THE GARDEN MAKES A SURPRISINGLY HANDSOME HOUSEPLANT. SALVAGE A MINIATURE IVY FROM A MIXED CONTAINER AND LET IT FILL A LOW-LIGHT POSITION INDOORS. GOT SPACE? ADOPT A COLEUS AND THEN SNIP CUTTINGS IF YOUR WINTER GUEST STARTS TO STRESS.

HOW TO BE AN AIRHEAD

WEEKENDERS, NEWBIES, AND BROWN THUMBS, LISTEN UP—— HAVE WE GOT A HOUSEPLANT FOR YOU!

You have a seriously ungreen thumb. When it comes to houseplants, you are hopeless. Unsuspecting plants invited into your home wilt when they see you coming, or so it seems. Your losing streak is about to change because anybody can succeed with air plants. Theoretically, anything alive can be killed—but you would have to work hard to annihilate an air plant. Not only are they as close as any houseplant comes to being maintenance-free, they don’t even need soil or a container.

If digging in the dirt and packing it around roots has you stymied, then air plants are the roommates for you. They survive (and thrive) in the open air without pots. They are a breath of fresh air that will change your life.

KNOW YOUR AIRS

Botanically, air plants are in the Tillandsia genus, falling within the larger umbrella of the bromeliad family— the same clan that brings us pineapples. These aerial artists are primarily native to the southern U.S., Mexico, Central and South America, and the West Indies, where they grow on trees as epiphytes (plants that grow on other plants) and rocks.

AIR PLANTS SURVIVE (AND THRIVE) IN THE OPEN AIR WITHOUT POTS. THEY ARE A BREATH OF FRESH AIR THAT WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE.

Rather than taking the typical route of anchoring themselves safely into the soil, these acrobats hang around in the upper canopy, quenching their thirst during periodic rainstorms. If an air plant does have roots, it uses them for grasping and remaining in place rather than drinking. But air plants absolutely

do need water; they cannot live on air alone. Their unique workaround is to slurp up moisture via the scales on their leaves (trichomes), which often read visually as peach fuzz. As a side hustle, the scales also protect the plant from sunburn. How these traits translate into a physical being can be fascinating. Many tillandsias resemble

the progeny that might result if Medusa married a sea urchin.

Many air plants grow flowering bracts or blossom bundles that are as unique as their foliage. Colors range from royal purple to fuchsia (sometimes combined in the same package) to fiery yellow. There is one caveat: After blossoming, it’s curtains for the rosette. Not to panic, however. That flowered-out fan will persist for a while. Meanwhile, the mother plant should produce a pup that will pop from the rosette base and resume the cycle.

Flowering doesn’t happen quickly or often. You can wait years for a flower spike to appear. Want more of a good thing? Propagate the plant by dividing off a pup when it’s 1/3 to 1/2 the size of mama and resembles the appearance of the mother plant.

AIR NECESSITIES

Not only do these little plants translate into the perfect indoor companion for anybody with no love of playing in the dirt, they’re equally ideal for wannabe houseplant parents with little time for wielding a watering can. Air plants are adapted to drink during periodic rainstorms, which means you can lay the plant anywhere for display

• EASILY BUST SOD and churn through compacted soil

• PREPARE SEEDBEDS or till garden waste back into your soil

• FULL LINE of walk or tow-behind

Powerful OHV Engines are easy-starting and warranted for up to 2 years of residential use. (90 days of commercial use)

Power Driven Wheels

propel the tiller forward easily in almost any terrain. When you want to free-wheel, you can simply switch into neutral gear.

$79999

Drag Stake provides extra resistance and can be raised and pinned in place when not needed.

PRO CRT and PRO XLDRT only

Dual Tine Rotation gives you the ability to switch from forward to counter-rotation depending on the job at hand.

PRO XLDRT only Debris Shield helps protect the operator from thrown soil.

PRO XLDRT

(a fancy dish, a glass goblet, the branches of a tree, wearable art).

However, don’t forget your adoptee entirely, because it will need periodic watering. How do you give an air plant a drink? Once or twice a week, just soak it in a bowl of tepid water for 10 to 30 minutes. David Burdick, a veteran specialist grower with a prodigious Tillandsia collection (“hundreds of different kinds”), soaks his air plants in buckets for exactly an hour weekly (his wife gave him an

points out that misting is not sufficient to hydrate the plants; they need the submerge cycle.

WHERE AIRS FLARE

Air plants prefer indirect light, such as an east- or west-facing window in your home. Many gardeners bring them outdoors for the summer—after frost is no longer a threat—tucking them into shrubs or hanging

Don’t forget to hustle them back indoors in the fall. Remember that they’re tender plants and won’t endure a frost. Gennari’s suggestion is to squirrel them back indoors when daytime temperatures regularly plummet below 55°F. That said, drafty houses are not an issue. However, an extremely dry atmosphere (such as a place where petting your

AIRPLANTS NEED PERIODIC WATERING. SOAK

YOUR PLANTS IN A BOWL OF TEPID WATER FOR 10 TO 30 MINUTES ONCE OR TWICE A WEEK.

hourglass to keep track of the time). Morning is the best part of the day to give air plants the plunge because they’ll have enough time to dry out before dark. Burdick advises that all tillandsias should be turned upside down and given a quick shake to remove excess water, which will prevent rot, especially in the larger sorts with deep rosettes (like Tillandsia xerographica). He also

them on other houseplants that are enjoying outdoor summer temperatures.

Rob Gennari of Glendale Botanicals in Massachusetts, specialists of rare and uncommon plants, harbors a penchant for air plants, and he warns about the transition from indoors to alfresco. “Put them in diffused light— under a tree canopy works best,” he advises, “They can get sunburned.”

hyperventilating about fertilizing—no fuss, no muss!

AIRS OF IMPORTANCE

With hundreds of species to choose from, you’ve got possibilities galore, including some enhanced with artificial coloring. Here are some highlighted species in this wonderland of weirdos.

Tillandsia usneoides

Famed for its showering cascades raining thick silvery chains, Spanish moss is also known as

furry friends produces sparks of static electricity) might require more frequent soakings. If your air plant is drying out, try tucking it into a ventilated glass vase or terrarium positioned in indirect light. Burdick emphasizes that air circulation is crucial: “They don’t tolerate a damp environment.”

That’s it. No stress about whether the plant needs repotting and no

old man’s beard. This aerial is a fixture throughout the South. Burdick brings his Spanish moss outside to hang from trees in summer, “but it ends up in a lot of robins’ nests,” he warns.

Tillandsia ionantha

If flowers are your goal, go with this little number. Small, but a mighty bloomer, its little rosettes quickly form scarlet bracts

USNEOIDES

IONANTHA

XEROGRAPHICA

from which long, slender, blue-violet blossoms pop. This particular air plant is often called the blushing bride on the strength of its scarlet bracts. Ecologically, these bracts attract the hummingbirds that serve as the plant’s pollinators.

Tillandsia xerographica

The broad, silver, ribbonlike leaves that form a plump rosette on

IF YOUR AIR PLANT IS DRYING OUT, TUCK IT INTO A VENTILATED GLASS VASE OR TERRARIUM POSITIONED IN INDIRECT LIGHT.

T. xerographica curl gracefully, as if creating a sculptural form. Because the foliage tightens into a fist shape, be sure to shake out the water after soaking.

“Sitting water lodged in that rosette is the kiss of death,” says Gennari.

PUTTING ON AIRS

A live plant that can be staged anywhere is an innovator’s dream come true. The only limit is your imagination.

■ Use glass containers crafted specifically to display these natural works of art—some glass orbs can play up an air plant’s octopus-like appendages.

■ Fill a terrarium or Wardian case with air plants. Any clear vase, cake stand, bowl, or whatnot does the trick. Attach an S-hook to hang your air plant on the edge or lay it flat.

■ Incorporate air plants into craft projects. Tuck them into wreaths or decorate Christmas trees (or other houseplants)— just keep in mind that they do need light.

■ Want a wild look? Attach one or more air plants to a cork plaque or piece of bark.

■ Make them into wearable jewelry or weave them into a crown.

■ Create a 3-dimensional air plant mural.

Tillandsia caput-medusae

Native to Mexico and South America, the mythological Medusa had nothing on T. caput-medusae. Swirling, folded leaves jut from a bulb-like base—looking, perhaps, too similar to a slithering coven of snakes or maybe a swimming octopus.

Tillandsia stricta

With little bundles of quills, this air plant gets points for its frequent blooms, which begin as flaming pink, pinecone-shape bracts that spin off into brief purple flowers. When we say brief, we mean it: Don’t schedule a day trip or you might miss the show—but the pink bracts will persist.

Tillandsia tectorum

Shaped like a sea urchin but covered in fuzz, this acrobat is nearly irresistible

to touch. Native to Ecuador and North Peru, T. tectorum is one of the smaller air plants, but it packs a lot of beauty into limited space.

Tillandsia fasciculata

This stunner with long, graceful leaves and scaled blossom bracts is native to Central and South America, Mexico, and also Florida where it has become endangered partially due to illegal collection from the wild. This underscores a frequent issue plaguing these plants: Be sure to purchase from reputable growers to preserve the native populations. ■

–Tovah Martin

With more than 200 houseplants sharing her Connecticut home, some of Tovah Martin’s green roommates have to be low-maintenance. The air plants displayed on glass cake stands and vintage transferware bowls leave Martin plenty of time to tend her 7 acres of garden.

CAPUT-MEDUSAE

TECTORUM FASCICULATA

ARE YOU A SMARTY-PLANTS?

TAKE THIS QUIZ TO FIND OUT HOW MUCH YOU KNOW ABOUT YOUR POTTED PALS

Every January 10, houseplants bask in the warm glow of prolific praise— after all, it’s Houseplant Appreciation Day! Indeed, your growing buddies deserve to be admired each and every day for their benefits, beauty, and resolve. In honor of houseplants everywhere, here’s a quiz to test your “inside” knowledge.

1. Houseplants can boost our productivity and reduce our anxiety.

True or false?

2. Which wavelength of light tends to be the most beneficial for plant photosynthesis?

a. Blue

b. Green

c. Red

3. Air plants don’t need water to survive.

True or false?

4. From the 17th through 19th centuries, this mainly glassed-in structure was especially popular with the wealthy for housing citrus and other exotic plants in cold climates. What is its name?

a. Parterre

b. Orangery

c. Sunroom

5. Pebbles in the bottom of a pot will improve its drainage. True or false?

6. The finicky but flamboyant primrose is a birth flower for which month?

a. February

b. March

c. April

7. The botanical name Peperomia came from the Greek pipéri, for “pepper,” and hómoios, for “similar,” because the plant resembles the black pepper plant, Piper nigrum. By which common name is Peperomia also known?

a. Pepperpot

b. Radiator plant

c. Spice plant

8. The leaves of the Maranta houseplant are

famous for doing what?

a. Folding upright at night

b. Glowing faintly in darkness

c. Changing color to match their environment

9. According to feng shui practice, hosting a money tree (Pachira aquatica) will bring good fortune. Which of the following plants is believed to be unlucky?

a. Jade plant

(Crassula ovata)

b. Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa)

c. Tamarind (Tamarindus indica)

10. Plants respond to music. True or false?

ANSWERS

1. True. According to research, working near plants can benefit concentration, productivity, and memory—increasing retention by as much as 20 percent! Plants in the workplace can produce a faster reaction time—up to 12 percent— on computer tasks requiring visual concentration and help to reduce stress, anxiety, and depression.

2. c. Red. In many cases, however, a combination of full visible light spectrum plus UV and infrared is best for healthy plant development and flowering.

3. False. Air plants (Tillandsia) need to be misted regularly (at least once a week). Once or twice a week, they also need to be soaked in tepid water for 10 to 30 minutes (depending on species) and then shaken and dried upside down so that water does not accumulate in the crown, which can lead to rot.

4. b. Orangery. The first orangeries were created for Italian gardens during the Renaissance, as exotic fruit became popular as treats in parts of Europe. Today, they are usually an extension of a home rather than a separate building and are more often used as indoor living spaces than for growing exotic plants.

5. False. This is a common belief. However, scientists have now found that a bottom gravel layer will not improve drainage and may lead to root rot and plant failure.

6. a. February. (Its other birth flower is the violet.) Primroses typically flower in early spring. These perennial plants can be grown outdoors in USDA Zones 3 to 8 (depending on species) and prefer partial shade and moist, welldraining soil. However, they can also be grown indoors as short-lived houseplants—their cheerful blooms are a welcome addition to the home.

7. b. Radiator plant . Famed American botanist Liberty Hyde Bailey (1858–1954) coined the term “radiator plant” to describe the plant’s affinity for warmth and bright, indirect light, such as found on a windowsill above a radiator. Many species, however, can tolerate fairly low light levels.

8. a. Folding upright at night. Maranta leaves lie fairly horizontal during the day but rise upward at night to an almost vertical position, folding loosely together to earn the plant its common name, prayer plant. Called nyctinasty (sleeping movements), this leaf motion is a response to darkness.

9. c. Tamarind. Feng shui principles discourage people from growing tamarind as a houseplant because it may bring negative energy into the home. However, money tree, jade plant (also called money plant), and Swiss cheese plant are

said to bring wealth and prosperity.

10. True—sort of. Some studies show that plants respond favorably to certain types of music, such as through an increase in root and stem growth. However, many experts believe that it can be tricky to conduct these types of experiments reliably as there are many factors to manage. The common thinking is that this is not because plants emotionally “like” a particular type of music—as humans might— but because the vibrations from certain genres may stimulate a greater physiological response than others do.

Find more fascinating houseplant facts at: Almanac.com/HPQuiz ■ –Heidi Stonehill

Heidi Stonehill, executive editor of The Old Farmer’s Almanac, has a special fondness for her spider plant, which has been a member of the family since the 1970s.

TAROT FOR GARDENERS

WHAT THE CARDS CAN TELL YOU ABOUT YOUR GARDEN AND YOURSELF

Gardens were a big part of my childhood. My parents came from sturdy farm stock and their gardening skills got them through the Great Depression. Growing their own food allowed them to be self-reliant—no matter what was happening in the world.

I spent many summers helping Dad weed, water, and harvest. While I enjoyed digging in the dirt, my head was often in the clouds. I was searching for answers and a sense of purpose beyond long hours spent pulling carrots out of the ground. Tarot entered my life when I was

a teenager on a rare trip to the mall. I picked up a deck on a whim; before

long, I was cultivating a new skill that would one day become my life’s work.

DECK SPECS

Tarot decks comprise 78 cards. The cards are divided into two parts: the major and minor arcana, with the latter including the court cards. Arcana, with its Latin root arcanus, means “secrets” or “mysteries.” The major cards are associated with fate, life lessons, larger concepts, and the spiritual journey; the minor cards represent day-to-day life—things that we can control.

The minors comprise four suits, each connected to an element: Cups symbolize water; pentacles are of the earth; swords represent air; and wands embody fire. Each of these elements is essential for life to flourish. From a gardener’s perspective, we plant seeds in the earth and depend on water, air, and the Sun’s fire to help things grow—–and air also helps to spread seeds.

We see the story of gardens in the majors, as well as in the court cards—–specifically the pentacles suit, which is associated with the earth. Court cards can represent people in your life or the energy you are presenting, and they can also tell the story of growth.

My father stayed busy with his garden, though now he was working solo. He didn’t mind even though he thought I would have been better off watering plants instead of shuffling cards all day. Years after my tarot career took flight, I visited my parents. I found Dad busily planting marigolds in a new flower bed. “How is the tarot business going?” he asked.

“It’s growing, Dad,” I answered. I knelt beside him and got to work. After all, we share the same roots.

GARDENS IN THE TAROT As you look through a deck of tarot cards, you’ll notice many gardens, indicating

Photo: Lori Pedrick

Your recipient will be "udderly" delighted when they receive a personalized lease certificate. When they redeem their certificate, they pick their own Vermont dairy cow, and the finest cheddar cheese will be shipped to their door.

Moms, Dads, Grads,

More!

In tarot, every garden refers to Eden—to innocence, bliss, and perfection; to order, peace, and safety; to cultivation—of both inner virtue and outer reward. –Ruth Ann and Wald Amberstone, American writers (b. 1954; b. 1941), in The Secret Language of Tarot

themes of abundance, growth, maturation, security, and sustenance. Gardens in the tarot promise reward—the eventual fruits of hard labor.

THE LOVERS

In her classic book, Seventy-Eight Degrees of Wisdom (Weiser Books, 1980), writer Rachel Pollack noted that the image on the Lovers card used in the Rider-Waite-Smith deck “suggests the Garden of Eden, or rather, a new Garden of Eden, with the trees bringing enlightenment rather than the Fall.” Among ripe fruit trees are two unclothed figures and a serpent, symbolizing purity

and temptation. Above the scene, an angelic being reminds the viewer that a choice is available: Do you remain innocent, or is the temptation to bite the forbidden fruit too strong?

THE MAGICIAN

Facing an altar, the magician has laid out his tools: cup, pentacle, sword, and wand—representing the minor suits in the tarot deck. One of his hands is raised to the heavens, the other points down at the earth, symbolizing manifestation. A lemniscate floats above his head, indicating unlimited potential. Flowers blooming at his feet represent signs of beauty and

creativity. This card symbolizes the magic present in every garden when seeds manifest into plants.

ACE OF PENTACLES

A radiant hand holding a golden pentacle floats in the sky. Below, there is a hint of a rich garden. Greenery visible on and around an archway symbolizes growth or wealth. The card indicates new beginnings that have the potential to grow abundantly.

NINE OF PENTACLES

A figure stands in front of a garden wall festooned with clusters of grapes. “Like a vineyard yielding a bountiful harvest, grapes in a tarot

reading can signify financial success and stability,” says writer and tarot reader Avia Venefica. The figure wears an ornate gown, further suggesting wealth and abundance.

PAGE OF PENTACLES

A medieval page holds aloft a single pentacle as he stands in a field, with mountains and tilled fields in the distance. Pages symbolize students and new beginnings and also represent a seed planted— whether as an idea or the first seed planted in the ground (as is the case with the Page of Pentacles). This card says, “It’s time to get growing.”

Photo: Lori Pedrick

I knew that I was meant one day to build my own garden of joy. A little corner of paradise. A meeting place between man and nature.

KNIGHT OF PENTACLES

The only knight in the deck not shown in motion, he sits atop a black horse. He holds a pentacle as he surveys a freshly tilled plot of land. The message is that the legwork is done, and it will take time before signs of growth appear. It’s a card of patience, urging us to understand that nature must take its course.

QUEEN OF PENTACLES

She sits on a throne in a garden that is starting to bloom—red flowers, symbols of beauty, surround her. The rabbit in the corner represents fertility. Queens are associated with people who identify as mature females and also indicate a need to nurture. This card says, “Queen, continue to nurture yourself and your garden, and all will flourish!”

KING OF PENTACLES

He sits on a throne carved with bulls (linking him to the earth sign, Taurus), and his robe is adorned with images of grapevines. Here, the garden is full, rich, and bearing sweet fruit. This card tells you that the hard work is done; it’s time to bask in what you have created.

A GARDEN READING

Nowadays people use tarot for creative inspiration, personal growth, and therapy. Gardeners can use the tarot to focus

–Niki de Saint Phalle, French-American artist (1930–2002)

THE TAROT GARDEN

Opened in Capalbio, Italy, in 1998, the Tarot Garden (Il giardino dei tariocchi) features sculptures representing the major arcana of the tarot deck that were created by artist Niki de Saint Phalle over the course of three decades. The installation became a community-wide project, with fine artisans teaching locals how to create elaborate tilework that cover the sculptures, from crackled glazes and Murano glass to mosaic details. Construction exceeded $5 million; approximately 75,000 people visit each year.

on what their garden may need. Even if you’re not a tarot reader, all you need is a little imagination to see what the cards might mean for your garden.

For example, choosing a card from the cups suit might suggest the need for more water, and pentacles could be a nudge to fertilize—whereas the swords suit may indicate it is time to cut the vines before they get out of hand, and wands might warn of drought. Try your hand at doing a

tarot reading! Shuffle your cards while thinking of a question. When you feel ready, put the deck face down and cut it into three piles, then reunite them back into a single stack. Drawing from the top of the deck, choose one card for each of the four positions and lay them in a row, starting from left to right: plant, feed, weed, harvest. The tarot images and symbols are universal. Let your intuition help determine the meanings.

Here’s a sample:

The question: What does my garden need from me?

Plant: Page of Wands

The page gazes at the top of his wand. This card portends an exciting, fresh start with unlimited potential. Plant something you’ve never grown before but have always wanted to try.

Feed: Three of Cups

A trio of women in a joyful circle raise their glasses. Put energy into relationships to help things grow. Is it time to share your garden knowledge and energy with others? Is it time for companionable help to be sure your garden grows?

Weed: Ten of Swords

A person lies prone with 10 swords stuck in their body. This card symbolizes coming to the end of something. In the garden, that could mean it’s time to finish old projects to create space for new ones.

Harvest: The Sun

A happy baby is astride a white horse aglow in the sun. This card is about success and joy. For the gardener, it’s about keeping your eye on the prize—the harvest—to motivate you through the planting, feeding, and weeding. ■

–Theresa Reed

Theresa Reed, also known as The Tarot Lady (TheTarot Lady.com), is a Milwaukeebased writer and tarot educator. You can read more of her stories at Almanac.com.

CANDY

CANDY HOUSE

For over 50 years

CANDY HOUSE

“Your house for all occasions”

Candies! For over 50 years we have used only the finest ingredients in our candies—cream, butter, honey, and special blends of chocolates. Call for a FREE brochure. Long famous for quality candies mailed all over the world. Treat yourself or someone special today.

and special blends of chocolates.

for a FREE brochure. Long famous for quality candies mailed all over the world. Treat yourself or someone special today.

292 Chelmsford Street • Chelmsford, MA 01824 For Free Brochure Call: 978-256-4061 <

292 Chelmsford Street • Chelmsford, MA 01824 Call 978-256-4061 for Free Brochure Visit our website: mrsnelsonscandyhouse.com

292 Chelmsford Street • Chelmsford, MA 01824 For Free Brochure Call: 978-256-4061 <

“Your house for all occasions” 292 Chelmsford Street Chelmsford, MA 01824 For Free Brochure Call: 978-256-4061 Come visit

We value your opinion and would be grateful for your feedback.

Please go to ALMANAC.COM/SURVEY or scan the QR code to take a 5-minute survey and automatically be entered to win some great prizes!

p H PREFERENCES OF TREES, SHRUBS, FLOWERS, AND VEGETABLES

An accurate soil test will indicate your soil pH and will specify the amount of lime or sulfur that is needed to bring it up or down to the appropriate level. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens, since most plants thrive in the 6.0 to 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral) range. Some plants (azaleas, blueberries) prefer more strongly acidic soil in the 4.0 to 6.0 range, while a few (asparagus, plums) do best in soil that is neutral to slightly

TREES AND SHRUBS

Apple 5.0–6.5

Azalea 4.5–6.0

Beautybush .............. 6.0–7.5

Birch 5.0–6.5

Blackberry 5.0–6.0

Blueberry ............... 4.0–5.0

Boxwood 6.0–7.5

Cherry, sour 6.0–7.0

Crab apple .............. 6.0–7.5

Dogwood 5.0–7.0

Fir, balsam 5.0–6.0

Hemlock ................ 5.0–6.0

Hydrangea, blue-flowered . 4.5–5.5

Hydrangea, pink-flowered 6.0–7.0

Juniper ................. 5.0–6.0

Laurel, mountain ......... 4.5–6.0

Lemon 6.0–7.5

Lilac .................... 6.0–7.0

Maple, sugar ............. 6.0–7.5

Oak, white 5.0–6.5

Orange ................. 6.0–7.5

Peach ................... 6.0–7.0

Pear 6.0–7.5

Pecan ................... 6.4–8.0

Plum ................... 6.0–8.0

Raspberry, red 5.5–7.0

Rhododendron .......... 4.5–6.0

Willow.................. 6.0–8.0

FLOWERS

Alyssum 6.0–7.5

Aster, New England ...... 6.0–8.0

Baby’s breath 6.0–7.0

Bachelor’s button 6.0–7.5

Bee balm ................ 6.0–7.5

Begonia 5.5–7.0

Black-eyed Susan 5.5–7.0

Bleeding heart ...........

6.0–7.5

Canna 6.0–8.0

Carnation ............... 6.0–7.0

Chrysanthemum 6.0–7.5

Clematis ................ 5.5–7.0

Coleus 6.0–7.0

Coneflower, purple ....... 5.0–7.5

Coreopsis 5.0–6.0

Cosmos ................. 5.0–8.0

Crocus 6.0–8.0

Daffodil ................. 6.0–6.5

Dahlia 6.0–7.5

Daisy, Shasta ............ 6.0–8.0

Daylily 6.0–8.0

Delphinium ............. 6.0–7.5

Foxglove .

. 6.0–7.5

Geranium 5.5–6.5

Gladiolus ............... 5.0–7.0

Hibiscus 6.0–8.0

Hollyhock ............... 6.0–8.0

Hyacinth 6.5–7.5

Iris, blue flag ............. 5.0–7.5

Lily 6.0–7.0

Lily-of-the-valley ......... 4.5–6.0

Lupine 5.0–6.5

Marigold ................ 5.5–7.5

Morning glory 6.0–7.5

Narcissus, trumpet ...... 5.5–6.5

Nasturtium 5.5–7.5

Pansy ................... 5.5–6.5

Peony 6.0–7.5

Petunia ................. 6.0–7.5

Phlox, summer 6.0–8.0

Poppy, oriental .......... 6.0–7.5

alkaline. Acidic, or sour, soil (below 7.0) is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline, or sweet, soil (above 7.0) is treated with ground sulfur.

FROSTS & GROWING SEASONS

Dates given are normal averages for a light freeze (29° to 32°F, or –2° to 0°C); local weather and topography may cause considerable variations. The possibility of frost occurring after the spring dates and before the fall dates is 30 percent for the U.S. and 33 percent for Canada. The classification of freeze temperatures is usually based on their effect on plants. A light freeze kills only tender plants, with little destructive effect on other vegetation.

UNITED STATES (alphabetical by state abbrev.)

CITY GROWING SEASON LAST FIRST (DAYS) SPRING FROST FALL FROST

Juneau, AK 171 Apr. 26 Oct. 15

Pine Bluff, AR 230 Mar. 22 Nov. 8

Denver, CO 154 May 4 Oct. 6

Hartford, CT 165 Apr. 27 Oct. 10

Wilmington, DE 199 Apr. 13 Oct. 30

Athens, GA 217 Mar. 31 Nov. 4

Cedar Rapids, IA 155 May 4 Oct. 7

Boise, ID 166 Apr. 30 Oct. 14

Chicago, IL 193 Apr. 17 Oct. 28

Indianapolis, IN 172 Apr. 26 Oct. 16

Topeka, KS 182 Apr. 19 Oct. 19

Lexington, KY 185 Apr. 20 Oct. 23

Worcester, MA 167 Apr. 29 Oct. 14

Baltimore, MD 192 Apr. 16 Oct. 26

Portland, ME 160 May 1 Oct. 9

Lansing, MI 151 May 7 Oct. 6

Willmar, MN 149 May 4 Oct. 1

Jefferson City, MO 193 Apr. 14 Oct. 25

Helena, MT 132 May 15 Sept. 25

Bismarck, ND 126 May 19 Sept. 23

North Platte, NE 131 May 16 Sept. 25

Concord, NH 136 May 15 Sept. 29

Newark, NJ 211 Apr. 6 Nov. 4

Albany, NY 159 May 2 Oct. 9

Cincinnati, OH 179 Apr. 23 Oct. 20

Tulsa, OK 207 Apr. 5 Oct. 30

Portland, OR 260 Mar. 6 Nov. 22

Williamsport, PA 167 May 1 Oct. 16

Kingston, RI 148 May 8 Oct. 4

Rapid City, SD 144 May 9 Oct. 1

Memphis, TN 229 Mar. 24 Nov. 9

Amarillo, TX 184 Apr. 20 Oct. 22

Cedar City, UT 119 May 31 Sept. 28

Richmond, VA 204 Apr. 9 Oct. 31

Burlington, VT 158 May 3 Oct. 9

Seattle, WA 246 Mar. 12 Nov. 14

Parkersburg, WV 186 Apr. 20 Oct. 24

Casper, WY 105 June 1 Sept. 15

CANADA (alphabetical by province abbrev.)

CITY GROWING SEASON LAST FIRST (DAYS) SPRING FROST FALL FROST

Calgary, AB 99 May 29 Sept. 6

Edmonton, AB 123 May 15 Sept. 16

Red Deer, AB 108 May 24 Sept. 10

Dawson Creek, BC 76 June 8 Aug. 24

Kelowna, BC 150 May 8 Oct. 6

Prince George, BC 120 May 20 Sept. 18

Vancouver, BC 180 Apr. 21 Oct. 19

Victoria, BC 208 Apr. 14 Nov. 9

Brandon, MB 92 June 6 Sept. 7

Lynn Lake, MB 87 June 10 Sept. 6

Thompson, MB 58 June 18 Aug. 16

Winnipeg, MB 116 May 21 Sept. 15

Fredericton, NB 125 May 22 Sept. 25

Saint John, NB 165 Apr. 30 Oct. 13

Gander, NL 120 June 7 Oct. 6

St. John’s, NL 124 June 6 Oct. 9

Halifax, NS 164 May 8 Oct. 20

Sydney, NS 135 May 27 Oct. 10

Truro, NS 103 June 7 Sept. 19

Fort Simpson, NT 81 May 31 Aug. 21

Yellowknife, NT 102 May 31 Sept. 11

Kapuskasing, ON 75 June 18 Sept. 2

Kingston, ON 161 Apr. 28 Oct. 7

Ottawa, ON 135 May 13 Sept. 26

Sudbury, ON 124 May 21 Sept. 23

Timmins, ON 86 June 13 Sept. 8

Toronto, ON 161 May 4 Oct. 13

Charlottetown, PE 142 May 22 Oct. 12

Summerside, PE 154 May 13 Oct. 15

Montréal, QC 152 May 6 Oct. 6

Québec, QC 129 May 17 Sept. 24

Roberval, QC 117 May 25 Sept. 20

Trois-Rivières, QC 128 May 19 Sept. 25

Prince Albert, SK 88 June 7 Sept. 4

Regina, SK 91 June 1 Sept. 1

Yorkton, SK 106 May 26 Sept. 10

Watson Lake, YT 83 June 6 Aug. 29

Whitehorse, YT 72 June 12 Aug. 24

COMPANION PLANTS

Most garden folklore is rooted in the idea that some plants get along, while others do not. As with most folklore, many gardeners believe that this theory has a few grains of truth to it.

Plants compete for available resources, and some have evolved chemical defenses that discourage, or even eliminate, rivals. Many herbs act as repellents, confusing insects with their strong odors that mask the scent of the host

CROP FRIENDS

Beans Cabbage Carrots

Beets Broccoli Cabbage Carrots

Beans Celery Cucumbers

Beans Lettuce Onions

Corn

Cucumbers

Lettuce Onions

Peppers Radishes Tomatoes

Cauliflower Celery Corn Cucumbers

Dill Kale Lettuce

plants. Some companions act as trap plants, luring insects to themselves. Other companion plants are simply good neighbors, like spinach or Swiss chard grown next to sunflowers, flourishing in the dappled sunshine.

As you plan your garden, consider a plant’s friends and foes. Record your combinations and the results year to year and share them—companionship is just as important for gardeners as it is for gardens.

FOES

Eggplant Peas Potatoes Radishes

Onions Potatoes Sage

Savory (S.) Squashes Strawberries Tomatoes

Spinach Thyme

Parsley Peas Radishes Rosemary Sage Tomatoes

Beans Cucumbers Lettuce Melons Peas Potatoes Squashes Sunflowers

Beans Cabbage Cauliflower Corn Lettuce Peas Radishes Sunflowers

Asparagus Beets

Brussels sprouts Cabbage Carrots Corn Cucumbers Eggplant Onions Peas Potatoes Radishes Spinach Strawberries Sunflowers Tomatoes

Beets Broccoli Cabbage Carrots Lettuce Peppers Potatoes Spinach Tomatoes

Basil Coriander Onions Spinach Tomatoes

Asparagus Basil Beans

Borage Carrots Celery Dill Lettuce Melons Onions Parsley Peppers Radishes Spinach Thyme

Garlic Onions

Peppers Sunflowers

Broccoli Cauliflower

Strawberries Tomatoes

Anise Dill Tomatoes

Aromatic herbs Melons Potatoes

Broccoli

Beans

Peas Sage

Beans Kohlrabi

Hyssop Kohlrabi

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Cauliflower

Corn

Kale Potatoes

–

The gardener cultivates wildness, but does so carefully and respectfully, in full recognition of its mystery.

Photo:

Michael Pollan, American writer (b. 1955), in Second Nature