Yankee Magazine May/June 2022 by Yankee Magazine

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Mayhere / June Slug | T K T2022 KTKTKTKTK

CONTENTS

Summer makes for some of the best road-trip adventures, especially when you can take a drive along the fabled New England coast. Photo by Maaike Bernström

E IN

2022

Z EE A MAG

Looking for summer travel ideas? Check out our editors’ picks for where to eat, stay, and play right now in some of New England’s favorite destinations. MASSACHUSETTS 100 NEW HAMPSHIRE 114 VERMONT 129 MAINE 135 RHODE ISLAND 142 CONNECTICUT 146

Yankee (ISSN 0044-0191). Bimonthly, Vol. 86 No. 3. Publication Office, Dublin, NH 03444-0520. Periodicals postage paid at Dublin, NH, and additional offices. Copyright 2022 by Yankee Publishing Incorporated; all rights reserved. Postmaster: Send address changes to Yankee, P.O. Box 37128, Boone, IA 50037-0128.

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R I C H A R D S C H U LT Z

ON THE COVER

90 /// Everybody Starts Somewhere For many future golf stars, greatness begins on this “little masterpiece” of a course in the nation’s smallest state. By Leigh Montville

BEST OF TRAVEL

76 /// Ocean State Odyssey Acclaimed photographer Richard Schultz focuses his lens on his home state to deliver an unforgettable portrait of summer in Rhode Island.

ORS’ PIC

NEW ENGLAND YA

64 /// Call of the Coast Whether you want to explore hidden-gem seaside towns, embark on a best-ever coastal bike ride, or taste-test your way through our top 25 seafood shacks, here’s all the inspiration you need to head to the water’s edge.

features

Sailors and surfers off the coast of Newport make use of Rhode Island’s vast ocean playground. Story, p. 76

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More Contents

departments 12

DEAR YANKEE, CONTRIBUTORS & POETRY BY D.A.W.

16 INSIDE YANKEE

18 FIRST PERSON For a child of the Maine wilderness, the humble fiddlehead nourishes memories and a sense of place. By Cathie Pelletier

22 FIRST LIGHT Against the backdrop of a windswept beach in New Hampshire, an artist’s work takes on a life of its own. By Robin Catalano

26 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE Q&A Get an insider’s take on summer fun in Boston with Swan Boats owner Lyn Paget, a featured guest on the newest season of Weekends with Yankee.

home 30 /// The Glass House on the Hill Step into a Martha’s Vineyard stunner that Frank Lloyd Wright would have loved. By Tatsha Robertson

UP CLOSE For generations, Goldenrod Kisses have been the sweetest memories of a beach day in Maine. By Joe Bills

40 /// Open Studio

Maine artist Kate Nelligan’s seaside designs take a bold dive into color. By Annie Graves

food

162 LIFE IN THE KINGDOM When your list of home projects never ends, choosing a favorite tool is a job in itself. By Ben Hewitt

46 /// Beach, Blanket ... Bingo! Here’s everything you need to create the perfect picnic for a day by the sea—or anywhere else, for that matter. By Amy Traverso 54 /// In Season Showcase that fresh-picked asparagus from the farmers’ market (or your own backyard) with this easy cheese tart. By Amy Traverso 56 /// Recipe Remake Classic deviled eggs get reimagined in three spicy new ways. By Katherine Keenan 4 |

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A Bay State Bouquet Experience Massachusetts in full bloom at these flower festivals and glorious gardens

lowers are entwined in the founding history of Massachusetts, on whose shores the Pilgrims landed their ship back in 1620. Bearing the name Mayflower, it symbolized a feeling of hope that blooms anew today in flowers of all kinds across the Bay State. Each year, the floral festivities begin in April with daffodil and tulip events—such as the Naumkeag Daffodil and Tulip Festival in Stockbridge and the Nantucket Daffodil Festival— before reaching a glorious peak in late spring and summer. Here are some of the best ways to tap into Massachusetts’s flower power this year.

Flower Festivals

One of Massachusetts’s best-loved floral celebrations is Lilac Sunday (May 8) at Boston’s Arnold Arboretum, whose 400-plus lilacs will burst forth in a dual celebration: 2022 marks the first Lilac Sunday in three years, but also the 150th anniversary of this world-class, 281-acre botanical treasure Hydrangeas, meanwhile, are a hallmark of Cape Cod, with their distinctive blue, pink, and creamy-white flowers popping up

everywhere in summer. Join in the region’s 10-day celebration, the Cape Cod Hydrangea Festival (July 8–17), for private garden tours, workshops, lectures, and more. Lavender fans can get their fill, too, when this aromatic crop reaches peak bloom in late June to mid-July. The Farm at SummitWynds in Holden hosts an annual Lavender Farm Fest (June 22–26); other growers, notably the enchanting Cape Cod Lavender Farm in Harwich, also welcome visitors throughout the season.

Seasonal Delights

If you love the show-stopping beauty of roses, late June is the time to start seeking them out. Two great spots: the Nantucket village of ’Sconset, known for its scenic rose-covered cottages, and the Back Bay Fens in Boston, where the “hidden gem” Kelleher Rose Garden offers some 1,500 blooming beauties behind its tall green hedges. Meanwhile, the Pioneer Valley boasts an award-winning rose collection at Westfield’s Stanley Park, with some 2,500 bushes spanning more than 50 varieties. Starting in August, sunflowers turn swaths of Massachusetts farmland into

Bridge of Flowers, Shelburne Falls

Arnold Arboretum, Boston

blankets of gold. Less than an hour from Boston, you can see these big blooms in all their glory at Colby Farm in Newbury; Tangerini’s Spring Street Farm in Millis; and Verrill Farm in Concord. And bring your camera, because photo ops abound!

Perennial Favorites

The Bay State is also blessed with garden destinations that are beautiful all summer long, and beyond. The c. 1837 Boston Public Garden is the nation’s oldest public botanic garden, delighting visitors with elegant formal flower beds and the iconic Swan Boats. (Boston also has America’s oldest public arboretum, the Arnold Arboretum.) To the west, you’ll discover the Berkshire Botanical Garden in Stockbridge, which recently debuted a charming topiary collection, and the 171-acre Tower Hill Botanic Garden in Boylston, which has added a children’s garden to its many green spaces and conservatories. And don’t overlook the Cape and Islands: Sandwich is home to Heritage Museums & Gardens, which combines 100 acres of natural beauty with museum collections ranging from folk art to vintage cars, while the Polly Hill Arboretum is a Martha’s Vineyard gem named for the horticulturist who developed these verdant acres as a labor of love. Finally, no flower lover should miss Massachusetts’s one-of-a-kind attractions. Take a walk to remember on the Bridge of Flowers in Shelburne Falls, a 1908 trolley bridge transformed into a greenery-filled footpath over the Deerfield River. And join the generations of visitors to the Harvard Museum of Natural History who have marveled at its 4,000-plus “glass flowers”: Created between 1886 and 1936 and representing 780 species, these blooms offer a beauty that knows no season.

PHOTOS: ADAM DETOUR (ARNOLD ARBORETUM); ALIZADA STUDIOS/ISTOCK (BRIDGE OF FLOWERS)

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Welcome to Massachusetts Your summer visit is waiting

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Clark Art Institute, Williamstown, Berkshires; Castle Hill on the Crane Estate, The Trustees of Reservations, Ipswich; Dennis, Cape Cod PHOTO: GRETA GEORGIEVA (DENNIS)

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EDITORIAL Editor Mel Allen Managing Editor Jenn Johnson Senior Features Editor Ian Aldrich Senior Food Editor Amy Traverso Home & Garden Editor Annie Graves Associate Editor Joe Bills Senior Digital Editor Aimee Tucker Associate Digital Editor Katherine Keenan Contributing Editors Kim Knox Beckius, Sara Anne Donnelly, Ben Hewitt, Rowan Jacobsen, Nina MacLaughlin, Julia Shipley ART Art Director Katharine Van Itallie Photo Editor Heather Marcus Contributing Photographers Adam DeTour, Megan Haley, Corey Hendrickson, Michael Piazza, Greta Rybus PRODUCTION Director David Ziarnowski Manager Brian Johnson Senior Artists Jennifer Freeman, Rachel Kipka DIGITAL Vice President Paul Belliveau Jr. Senior Designer Amy O’Brien Ecommerce Director Alan Henning Marketing Specialist Holly Sanderson Email Marketing Specialist Eric Bailey — YANKEE PUBLISHING INC. ESTABLISHED 1935 | AN EMPLOYEE-OWNED COMPANY

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Vice President, Finance & Administration Jennie Meister Human Resources Manager Beth Parenteau Accounts Receivable/IT Coordinator Gail Bleakley Staff Accountant Nancy Pfuntner Accounting Coordinator Meg Hart-Smith Executive Assistant Christine Tourgee Maintenance Supervisor Mike Caron Facilities Attendant Paul Langille

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GARDEN GLORY A curated look at New England featuring standout shots from our Instagram community.

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S U M M E R T R AV E L B O N U S If “Call of the Coast” [p. 64] has you dreaming of a summer by the sea, let us help you plan the perfect getaway with our guide to New England’s best coastal events. From Fourth of July fireworks on the water to amazing seafood feasts, get the full schedule at: newengland.com/coastal_events FOL LOW US ON S OCI A L MEDI A @YA NK EEM AGA ZINE

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LE T TERS TO THE EDITOR

Road Rave

CONTRIBUTORS

R I C H A R D S C H U LT Z A seasoned photographer whose work has appeared in the likes of National Geographic and Smithsonian, Schultz says that being asked to document the place where he’s lived for more than a decade, Rhode Island, was a chance to make “lemonade out of the coronavirus lemon” [“Ocean State Odyssey,” p. 76]. “With life and travel slowing down a bit, I’ve finally had the time to explore—by car, by Vespa, on foot, and on our new sailboat, Bella.” TAT S H A R O B E R T S O N This self-professed “design geek” instantly fell in love with Juliette and Walter Pryor’s modern home on Martha’s Vineyard [“The Glass House on the Hill,” p. 30], saying, “The moment I walked in, I could feel the most positive spirit.” An award-winning editor and best-selling author, Robertson is currently deputy editor at The Root and recently cowrote The Formula: Unlocking Secrets to Raising Highly Successful Children with Dr. Ronald Ferguson. LEIGH MONTVILLE “This is where you can see a kid and 10 years later say, ‘I saw him when...,’” says Montville of the Northeast Amateur golf tournament [“Everybody Starts Somewhere,” p. 90]. “The analogy to the Cape Cod Baseball League is perfect.” A former Boston Globe sports columnist and Sports Illustrated senior writer, Montville has written 10 books, most recently Tall Men, Short Shorts, about the 1969 NBA finals between the Celtics and the Lakers. JO H N S. DY KE S For this Boston-based illustrator, “Call of the Coast” [p. 64] united two lifelong loves: summers in New England and drawing. “When assignments are a perfect match, the whole process seems right, from the research to the final illustrations,” he says. Singled out for numerous industry awards, Dykes’s work has been acquired by the New Britain Museum of American Art and the Norman Rockwell Museum, as well as many private collectors nationwide. WINKY LEWIS In trying to eke out time for her own work amid portrait and product assignments at her Portland studio, Lewis found a kindred spirit in Maine designer Kate Nelligan [“Making a Splash,” p. 40]. “I loved visiting Kate in her studio, and it was fun to see where she pulls her seemingly endless design work together,” says Lewis, who studied photography at Princeton University. “I truly hope we cross paths again, and often!” C AT H I E P E L L E T I E R The author of “The Zen of Fiddleheads” [p. 18] found national acclaim with her debut novel, The Funeral Makers, and has penned 15 more books, including two novels as K.C. McKinnon that became TV films. Two books for younger readers, The Mystery Traveler and Evangeline, will be published by Down East Books in 2023. After years of living “away,” she’s returned to the house where she was born, on the banks of the St. John River in Allagash, Maine. 12 |

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Reading Ben Hewitt’s essay “Rules of the Dirt Road ” [March /April] reminds me that I have come full circle. I grew up on a dirt road in Arlington, Massachusetts, back in the ’50s and ’60s. I had no idea who took care of our road, but I remember that it was always the last one to be plowed, which allowed for some awesome sledding. After raising our family in New Jersey, I now live on another Massachusetts dirt road. As Mr. Hewitt writes, “At this stage of my life, [living on a dirt road] just feels like something that’s in me.” I totally agree. Ann Piccolo Falmouth, Massachusetts

Season’s Greeting Oh, my! The March /April Yankee arrived yesterday, and “The Ephemerals” immersed me in the time of year that will soon be upon us in the Northern Connecticut Valley of New Hampshire. Writer Rowan Jacobsen opened my eyes, my heart, and my brain to time and its inevitable passing. My heart feels full of the wonders of life, both past and present. Thank you for the words and photos; I’ll love spring more than ever. Char Delabar Cornish, New Hampshire

Copy That Bravo for your spotlight on New England’s community newspapers [“HardPressed,” March/April]. I moved to Vermont in 2021 after a long stint at The Philadelphia Inquirer. I was struck by the quantity—and quality—of local newspapers and their vital role in the social contract. I’m a consumer of—as well as a contributor to—the week ly Seven Days, which delivers an entertaining, informative package of news, features, and kick-ass investigative journalism. You can bet it’s a must-read for local and state off icials; one only has to

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Dear Yankee

LE T TERS TO THE EDITOR

read the letters to the editor to see how engaged its readers are. For me, Seven Days brought things full circle. My first gig was at the Staten Island Advance, the sole news provider to New York City’s forgotten borough. The editor required that I live on the island because, as he put it, “you’ll never understand the damn place if you don’t.” I’m happy to be a Vermonter, as I strive to understand the damn place, and well pleased that it is served by a newspaper like Seven Days. Steve Goldstein Shelburne, Vermont

Altered States Being originally from Rhode Island, and growing up in nearby Seekonk, Massachusetts, I was drawn to the story “A Beach of One’s Own” [March/ April], about Napatree Point in Westerly, Rhode Island. Upon reading it,

SUMMER TRIP Aiming far, the family car Drives past where many restrooms are, But can’t resist the urge to stop For ice cream with a curl on top. —D.A.W.

I immediately noticed that the state graphic used at the start of the story didn’t look like the Rhode Island I know. Then it dawned on me: Someone had mistakenly inserted the graphic for Indiana. Yes, the two state outlines kind of, sort of look the same, but the giveaway was the split made by Narragansett Bay … it was not there. And after all, Rhode Island would probably not

be called the Ocean State if it were not for beautiful Narragansett Bay. I loved the story anyway! Rick Ward Roslindale, Massachusetts Dear Rick: You are indeed correct. A slip-up in our production process sent us, oh, about 700 miles off course. New England readers weren’t fooled, though, and neither were Midwestern ones. “Trying to attract Indiana Dunes National Park fans to come east?” wondered John Fazzari of Illinois. We regret this error and hope that the features that begin on pages 76 and 90 in this issue will find favor with our Rhode Island fans. (Please excuse us for not including any maps.) —The Editors

Amid winter’s political strife at home, and war in Europe, it was a delight to learn of Abraham Schechter’s work saving and preserving thousands of photographs from the Portland Press Herald [“Keeping Time,” January/ February]. As a retired journalist, amateur historian, and native New Englander, I found his efforts, and those of his senior-citizen helpers with keen memories of days gone by, an early burst of spring. Mark Thompson Kensington, Maryland We want to hear from you! Write to us at editor@yankeemagazine.com. Letters may be edited for length and clarity. 14 |

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Inside Yankee

MEL ALLEN

Call of the Coast “The three great elemental sounds in nature are the sound of rain, the sound of wind in a primeval wood, and the sound of outer ocean on a beach. I have heard them all, and of the three elemental voices, that of ocean is the most awesome, beautiful, and varied.” —Henry Beston, The Outermost House

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again. We love our mountains, and our rivers and lakes and forests, our villages set into hillsides, and our cities with parks and colleges and walkable downtowns, but it is the coastal landscape more than any other that shaped New England and burrows into the memory of anyone who knows it. In these pages, you will find enough ideas on where to go and what to see and do to help you enjoy dozens of summer vacations. We at Yankee plan all year for this travel issue. But this one, especially, holds the lure of the sea inside. More than ever, we need to escape for just a while, to feel a little quieter. The deep bays, the crashing surf, the harbors, the coming and going of the fishing vessels, the sailboats scudding by, the cries of seabirds—all hold a timelessness that I wish could be felt by everyone. And I wish each issue held a seashell or two, so that no matter where you live, you could press one against your ear, close your eyes, and believe you hear endless ocean hitting the shore.

Mel Allen editor@yankeemagazine.com

JARROD MCCABE

grew up in a small Pennsylvania town where summer swims meant running back and forth beneath the whirling lawn sprinkler. We had neither lakes nor ponds, and once each summer my parents would set off with us for “the shore,” two or three hours distant, depending on the wait to board the river ferry, and then another hour’s drive before the first whiff of salt air, the first seagulls in the sky. We’d stake out our spot on a crowded beach, jump into waves, wash off in a bathhouse, eat at a seafood place, then, late that night, head home. I always came back with two empty clam shells, and when I pressed them against my ears, I believed I heard the roar of surf. The best sound I knew. I have now lived in New England well over half a century, and to everyone who does not, it almost seems unfair how much land here touches sea or bay or tidal rivers. Calculations of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration count nearly 6,200 miles of coastline here, including tidal inlets, peninsulas, and islands. If you stretched all that out into a straight line, it would carry you from Portland, Maine, to Los Angeles, and back

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First Person

C AT H I E P E L L E T I E R

The Zen of Fiddleheads

or three or four weeks e ac h spr i ng, a sma l l green miracle appears along New England ’s shady riverbanks, brooks, and damp marshes. In its first few days of life, before it has time to unfurl into the ostrich fern it really is, it looks like the scroll on the tip of a fiddle. Botanists call it Matteuccia struthiopteris, but we northern Mainers know it as the humble fiddlehead. It is born swaddled in a brown papery chaff carried over from the previous autumn. With southern Maine being so tourist-centric in the summers, fancy recipes using fiddleheads have made their way into print over the years. There are quiches and omelets, Gruyère tarts and sauces, saffron soups and edamame salads. Some cookbooks have fiddleheads in league with quenelles de brochet or lemonrosemary risottos. We locals are often saddened to see photographs of our beloved fern cuddled up to a red lobster, or lounging next to spot prawns and glazed shrimp. We are rivers and lakes people this far north. The fiddlehead looks best when lying next to brook trout and biscuits. So ignore those dishes that use fancy words. Take it from a purist who was raised with fiddleheads growing a stone’s throw from the kitchen stove. You pick them in the spring when they are still unfurled, two or three inches high. Otherwise, within a month, the fronds will be a yard tall and swaying 18 |

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in the breeze like can-can dancers. I usually take a pan or a basket. But if I happen upon some while walking, I just remove my jacket and f ill the inside. We never use the word “harvest.” We say, “I picked a mess of fiddleheads today.” Rinse away the chaff and any dirt and boil them with potatoes. Some people throw in a chunk of salt pork. When they are cooked, cover them in butter (unless you’re a vegan like me) and sprinkle them with salt. But think of the riverbanks and brooks and marshes as you eat. Savor the smell of moist earth. DUR ING THE Y EA RS I WAS GROW ING

up in Allagash, my brother Vernon was the one who picked fiddleheads for the family. The rest of us weren’t interested, or we couldn’t tolerate

the blackf lies. Vernon s e eme d obl i v iou s to them as they swarmed around his head. Many of you know the blackfly, from the family Simuliidae. They prefer those same peaty areas where f iddleheads thrive. T he fema le feeds on the blood of mammals, including humans, for the protein she needs to lay her eggs. Thoreau was right when he wrote in The Maine Woods that bl ac k f l ie s a re “more formidable than wolves to the white man.” This was because Joe Polis, his Penobscot guide, wasn’t deterred in the least by them. Vernon was our family’s Joe Polis for many years when it came to picking fiddleheads. I was 23 when I left Maine and moved to the South, away from those pesk y nor thern black f lies. That next spring, come f iddlehead season, I received a box from my mother. Inside was a freezer bag stuffed with fresh fiddleheads, all nicely cleaned. It became a yearly ritual. Her note would say something like, “Vernon’s been picking fiddleheads.” Or, “I put in a jar of mustard pickles since there was room in the box.” When my niece moved to Tennessee some years later, she also began getting a box each spring. When mine arrived, I’d call

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3/18/22 4:24 PM

First Person

C AT H I E P E L L E T I E R

her to ask, “Did you get your fiddleheads yet?” I wonder how many pots of fiddleheads and potatoes Mama cooked for our family over the years. I wonder how many jars she canned for the long winters. I came back to be with her so she could die at home, in this house where she gave birth to me. We buried her in the spring of 2001, just as the first fiddlehead nubs were pushing up from the earth. She was first to go into the family graveyard, near the riverbank where wild chokecherries grow. Afterward, still stunned from our loss, Vernon said he was going for a canoe ride. “Do you want to come?” he asked. “We can pick some fiddleheads.” He brought with him four plastic pails that he threw into the canoe. I sat in the bow as we motored upriver. Ducks scattered ahead of us and deer watched from the shorelines. Near a cluster of hazelnut bushes growing on the riverbank, my brother pointed out an indentation. “There used to be a homestead there once,” he said. “The old Casey place. It’s been gone for years.” At Aegan Island, where grass grows tall on soil that is always moist and shady in the spring, Vernon pulled the canoe to shore. “This is my best spot for fiddleheads,” he said, as if it were a secret that could only be shared on such an important day in our lives. We picked yards apart, saying nothing as we leaned over our pails, hearing only the river and the wind. Once, when I stood to shoo blackf lies and take a drink of water, I heard him say, “There’s an eagle.” As I looked to the corner of sky where he had pointed, to the magnificent wingspan and solid white head, I knew then that nature would save me. And that I would pick fiddleheads for the rest of my life. On our way home, we rode away from a setting sun with full pails of fiddleheads to be given in “messes” to family and friends. The canoe followed channels in the river well-known to our ancestors, those f irst settlers of Allagash. Our tiny places on earth belong 20 |

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These days, reacquainted with the river, I prefer to pick fiddleheads alone. You can smell the past at times like that, the earth alive again from winter. to us for such a short time, I thought, as we again passed the spot where the old Casey place once stood. The ache I felt was in knowing that I’d never again get fiddleheads in the mail from my mother. It was just one small marker of the many ways I would miss her. Later that night, suitcase packed for my return to Tennessee, I went down to the basement where Mama had kept so many treasures. That cellar had been dug by my father with a team of horses when he built the house in 1948. There was the lantern Mama dusted off and f illed with kerosene each time our electricity went out. A yellow Post-it with her handwriting clung to the handle. “Lantern works fine,” the note told anyone who might need to know, in case she wasn’t there. Strings of Christmas lights hung from nails along the wall, their bulbs remembering the glisten and sparkle of y uletides past. She had always found nooks and crannies in that basement to hide Christmas presents where the best little detectives could never find them. Lined up neatly on a wooden shelf were a dozen Mason jars filled with canned goods. A few held the mustard pickles that I loved. Others had beets and yellow beans grown in her last garden, as well as cranberry jam, made from berries that still grow along our fields and roadsides. But on a bottom shelf, dust coating the lid, was the last jar of fiddleheads. The following spring, and a year

after losing my mother, I was sweeping my patio in Tennessee when a UPS truck rolled up to my door. I knew instantly what was in the box the driver carried as he came up the walk. After all, it was springtime in northern Maine and the riverbank near the old Casey place would be moist and shady. On the return label was my brother’s name and address. Inside, pinned to a freezer bag of fresh fiddleheads, was a note. “You’ll have to clean them yourself. I’m not Mama.” a deca de af ter m y mother died ,

I came home to be with my aging father. I packed my life into boxes and moved with my husband back to Allagash, to the family homestead, to this house built on memory. These days, reacquainted with the river, I prefer to pick fiddleheads alone. You can smell the past at times like that, the earth alive again from winter. The calls of yellow-breasted chats and song sparrows echo along the banks, and from the hardwood ridge the pileated woodpecker. Trilliums and trout lilies are up, and the first marsh marigolds are eager yellow buds. Sensing my respiration, the blackf lies surround me by the hundreds. Swarms of them orbit my head and spatter my white shirt. I no longer notice them. I breathe slowly to expel as little carbon dioxide as I can. As if meditating, I concentrate on the miracle of the ostrich fern, on the miracle of families, on the miracle of life and death that will unfurl, perpetually, for each generation. It’s a lesson I learned late in my life, thanks to the Zen of fiddleheads. Excerpted from Breaking Bread: Essays from New England on Food, Hunger, and Family. Selected and edited by Debra Spark and Deborah Joy Covey. Published May 24, 2022, by Beacon Press. Author proceeds will benefit Blue Angel, a Maine nonprofit to feed families in need; for information, go to blueangelme.org. NEWENGLAND.COM

3/10/22 11:22 AM

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A Sunday drive and lunch

Lupine field looking west to spruce and mountains

We go driving sometimes in Maine’s western mountains. A simple Sunday drive with lunch in a small town then we're back on the road again. What we are looking for is a pretty lake, a field, a view of mountains. We're looking for color, early summer lupines, early fall yellow, orange, red leaves. We talk, we talk about life, we talk, and then because we know each other so well we can ride a dozen miles and say nothing. It’s in these silent moments that I feel it most strongly, we’re in tourmaline country. Millions of years ago nature set off magical fireworks and sprayed tourmaline all through the ancient rocks up here. Today we find gems on the tops of hills. We find tourmaline and gems on the cliffside of mountains because we can see the rock exposed and we can see the indicator minerals with actual color and gems. It's not because gems form only in high places, it's simply easier to see nature's geology in these high places. It’s all beautiful and mysterious. Here is what I know, we’ve driven 50 miles today in Oxford County. We’ve driven over a treasure trove of gems dozens of times, exquisite crystals, beautiful colors, a king's ransom of the rare and exotic which will likely never be found because of how it is buried. My geology friends concur. It’s there, 2, 10, 20 feet below us and we’ve paved right over and painted a yellow line down the middle. Maine's western mountains are one of the most highly mineralized places in the world. We have in Maine tourmaline some of the prettiest green, pink and blue gems ever found.

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3/22/22 12:28 PM

First

LIGHT

Earthworks artist James Ayer has transformed this rocky bit of coastline in Rye, New Hampshire, into a kind of open-air sculpture gallery.

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The Cairns of Periwinkle Cove Against the backdrop of a New Hampshire beach, an artist’s work takes on a life of its own. B Y R O B I N C ATA L A N O PHOTOS BY JARED CH ARNE Y

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ust before 6 on a late-April morning, the sun breaks through the clouds over the rock-strewn beach of Periwinkle Cove in Rye, New Hampshire, and shines on an artful stack of eight stones. James Ayer brushes windwhipped gray hair from his face and stuffs one hand into his jeans pocket. With the other, he gestures to the precariously balanced sculpture, and the dozen or so others around it. “I have a tendency to make something out of things that are just lying around,” he says. An earthworks artist for more than four decades, Ayer grew up in a creative, working-class family in Kittery, Maine. As a child, he fashioned miniature cabins out of twigs and leaves, and natural paintbrushes and paints from flowers. By the age of 15, he was creating sculptures from rocks and other found objects, including metal, wood, leaves, shells, and feathers, both in the woods and along the beach. He first began making rock sculptures in Periwinkle Cove, just south of Odiorne Point, about 25 years ago. “I put up a few, and then a few more,” he says. “At one point, I made around a hundred. When I came back the next day, most had been knocked down.” So he created more sculptures. And when he returned a few days later, there were new ones. Lots of them. Since then, Ayer’s art on the Rye coast, on a beach unofficially dubbed Rock Sculpture Point, has taken on a life of its own. As the cairns are erased by the vagaries of waves and weather, residents and visitors of all ages create new stacks based on his original designs—a sort of dialogue between artist and audience. “His practice is ephemeral,” says Boston-based art adviser Margaret Erbe. “He finds things in nature, configures them in a new way. Then we see how nature responds, how it changes and decays. Nothing stays the same. That’s part of the art.” Earthworks—art made from and within its local environment—are common in Native American culture. Ayer’s family believes their lineage contains Abenaki and Cherokee ancestry, and the artist has drawn inspiration from these traditions for decades. Grandmother SaSa, an Abenaki healer in West Ossipee, New Hampshire, explains that art in indigenous cultures is a part of life—so much so that many Native American languages don’t even have a word for it. “It’s a way we connect to the spirit and our ancestors,” she says. Materials used in Native American art are inextricably tied to geography, notes Tess Lukey, a research associate at the Art of the Americas department of the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston and a Wampanoag tribe member. But Grandmother SaSa points to a deeper significance to Ayer’s chosen media. “Stones are the record keepers. They are the first thing that was on the earth. They hold our memory. If we know how to read the stones and understand them, they will teach us something.” | 23

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C AIRNS OF PERIWINKLE COVE

W hen asked how he chooses rocks for his sculptures, Ayer shrugs and says, “They tell me what to do.” He leans down, picks through some nearby stones. Then, under the bruised purple of the lightening sky, he begins to stack, starting with flatter rocks on the bottom, and different sizes, shapes, and colors on top. You might expect the movement to be clunky, a reverseJenga-like process of trial and error. But his work is fluid, swift, a fusion of engineering and intuition. Within seconds, he’s built a sixrock cairn—wobble-free, despite the wind blustering around the cove. He gingerly places a small pinkish rock on top—the lighter color draws focus— and looks up with an impish grin. “You’re pressing your luck with the top rocks,” he explains. For Ayer, the call of a beach like Periwinkle Cove is twofold: Its f linty shores provide an endless supply of materials as well as a meditative quality. He stands with longtime girlfriend Daphanie Sullivan, also an artist, gazing out at the ocean, past a boulder where a double-crested cormorant pauses, wings spread like a matador’s cape to dry its feathers. It’s easy to imagine Ayer might be hearing a message in the crash of surf against rock. 24 |

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Stacking rocks into a cairn—a word that derives from the Gaelic term for “heap of stones”—has been practiced across cultures to mark everything from trails to burial sites. In Ayer’s hands, it also becomes a means of artistic expression.

Besides the cairns in Rye, Ayer has crafted hundreds of sculptures on the East Coast, from Maine to North Carolina. These include mystical pyramids, a pair of heavy curved stones improbably balanced on two asymmetrical stacks of smaller rocks to form a rough-hewn “O,” and heartlike formations that seem to pulse under the

tangerine and cerise of a setting sun. He’s even created whimsical works, like a mother duck followed by a gaggle of ducklings, and a blockheaded man slouching against a stone wall. His favorite, a cone-shaped sculpture with an opening at the top, is on York Harbor Beach in Maine. Gazing through the hole and across the way toward Stage Neck Inn yields a glimpse of a stone cross on an outcropping. A boatbuilder and carpenter by trade, Ayer has also created paintings, woodwork, and photography. Yet the stone sculptures remain his most recognizable art. Each piece speaks not only to his connection with the earth, but also to the challenge of creating balance—both literal and metaphorical. While the creations of earthworks artists are rarely mentioned in the same breath as those of contemporary gallery stalwarts, “I would be really sad to see these kinds of things in a gallery,” Lukey says. “You wouldn’t get the full experience of a stone stack if it weren’t on a beach, surrounded by other stones that it had interacted with at some point that, for example, made it smooth. That kind of visceral feeling of the environment around these works is inherently a part of them, and integral to their effectiveness as an art piece.” Ayer seems unbothered by the lack of comparison to other artists, and even by the hurricanes and blizzards that topple his work. Instead, he revels in the dialogue with both nature and other humans. “I like to see when people get in on it,” he says of the nearirresistible urge that takes over in the presence of his rock cairns. “It gets people outside. It’s soothing. It’s good for them.” Grandmother SaSa believes Ayer’s art speaks to people, much like the stones speak to him. “It’s telling us a story,” she says. “It’s asking, ‘What are you remembering?’” For more information on James Ayer’s art, go to facebook.com/james.ayer.73. NEWENGLAND.COM

3/10/22 11:28 AM

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3/15/22 4:03 PM PM 3/8/22 5:12

First

LIGHT

| WEEKENDS

W I T H YA N K E E Q & A Q. What do you hear from customers about what the boats mean to them?

We’re generally part of some other traditions they have: birthdays, Mother’s Day, some other special event. We are a part of something they do year in and year out. And so when they aren’t able to do the Swan Boats, like what happened in 2020 when we shut down because of Covid, there’s a real sense of loss. Q. You said that the Swan Boats are typically part of a bigger day out in Boston for visitors. What are some of the nearby experiences that might go along with that?

Catching up with the fourth-generation owner of Boston’s Swan Boats and featured Weekends with Yankee guest.

hen the Swan Boats in Boston’s Public Garden launched for the 2022 season in April, Lyn Paget was on hand for the opening-day festivities, just as she’s been for much of her life. In a city rich with icons, the Swan Boats hold a particular sway—one that goes back to 1877, when Lyn’s great-grandfather, Roger Paget, first debuted his whimsical watercraft here. This past spring we caught up with Lyn, current president of the family business, as she prepared for the new season, to talk with her about the enduring appeal of the Swan Boats as well as some other favorite summer diversions in her home city. —Ian Aldrich

Q. Opening day for the Swan Boats is a big event. What do you think explains the allure?

Every year it’s the same: We’ve all been through a long winter and now, suddenly, it can seem we’ve turned 26 |

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the corner and there’s this place with flowers and all this life, and all this color, with boats on the water. The whole area seems to just explode with spring, and that day wraps up that whole transition in one picture. Q. Boston has undergone tremendous change over the past 150 years, and yet the Swan Boats are still a crucial part of the city’s identity. What’s allowed for that?

Boston is a city that loves its place in history. There’s this sense that things like its historical sites and historical architecture need to be protected. We’re part of that story. I also think the Public Garden is pretty amazing, and those boats, in that setting, are such a special thing. When you add the aesthetic appeal with the history, with the fact that we’re downtown and we’re something you can do easily with children, you can understand why we’ve lasted as long as we have.

Q. What about your own favorite things to do in your hometown?

We never went to the Harbor Islands when I was a kid—it just wasn’t a thing—but now, when the weather turns, I like to be near the water. There’s nothing better on that first warm day than to get on a boat and go out to, say, Castle Island, or walk around some of the other islands. I also like just walking to the other businesses near the Public Garden. There’s a guy who has run an ice cream truck at the corner of Arlington and Boylston streets for, like, the past 30 years. On a hot day, that’s a place a lot of us like to visit! Our visit with Lyn Paget and the Swan Boats is featured on season six of Weekends with Yankee, which debuted this spring on public television stations nationwide. To find out how to watch, go to weekendswithyankee.com.

E M I LY K A N

Lyn Paget

What I love about Boston is that it’s such a walkable city. You can stroll through the Boston Public Garden. You can easily get to the New England Aquarium or the Museum of Science. You can find interesting places to eat in the Back Bay or Beacon Hill and the South End. And then you have everything that’s going on by the harbor and the Seaport—that’s added a new dimension to what people can experience.

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/10/22 11:32 AM

YOU CAN’T PUT A PRICE ON

LOVE BUT WE CAN

Mondays at 8/7c on PBS

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3/17/22 2:41 PM

First

LIGHT

| UP

Goldenrod Kisses

he longest-running show in the village of York Beach, Maine, still draws a crowd more than 125 years later. No surprise, since admission is free and the aroma-based marketing campaign is essentially irresistible. Each May, the wafting sweet smell of boiling sugar and molasses returns to the streets here, indicating the production of Goldenrod Kisses, a brand of saltwater taffy that—around here, at least—is as indispensable an ingredient of summer as the sun itself. It was in 1896, just one year before a new railway connection would raise the area’s profile as a tourist destination, that Edward and Mattie Talpey opened their York Beach eatery, the

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Goldenrod, across the road from Short Sands Beach. Now the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Maine, the Goldenrod found popularity with its full-service soda fountain and tasty menu, yet it soon became clear that the real star was its taffy. And not just the candy itself, but also the performance that Edward would give in the front window: hanging the taffy from hooks, pulling it by hand, and cutting it into those signature Kisses. Today, the original recipes are still followed for the 12 primary f lavors: chocolate, cinnamon, licorice, lime, maple-walnut, molasses, molassespeppermint, peanut butter, peppermint, strawberry, vanilla, and win-

tergreen. During the summer, special flavors are rotated in as well. Goldenrod Kisses are made fresh daily, as they were in Edward’s time— although in quantities he never could have imagined. Viewers now line up outside not just the front window, but also windows along the side of the building, where they follow the whole Willy Wonka process from cooking kettles to cooling tables to a pulling machine (which took over Edward’s lead role in the 1940s). The pulling fluffs the taffy, doubling its size and readying it for the 1958 cutting and wrapping machine, which chops off 180 morsels a minute, eight million a season. And the show goes on. —Joe Bills

A D A M D E TO U R ; S T Y L I N G B Y C AT R I N E K E LT Y

The sweetest memories of a beach day in Maine.

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3/10/22 11:36 AM

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3/21/22 5:55 PM

Home

P R I VAT E TO U R

THE GL A SS HOUSE

ON THE HILL

A Martha’s Vineyard stunner that Frank Lloyd Wright would have loved. BY TAT S H A R O B E R T S O N P H OTO S BY E L I Z A B E T H C E C I L ST Y L I N G BY L I Z H Y N E S

At Juliette and Walter Pryor’s home in West Tisbury, Massachusetts, original artwork and treasures collected on family travels abroad offer a charismatic contrast to the living room’s neutral tones.

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FROM LEFT :

he moment our SUV struggled up a hill in the woods, I held my breath. It was a cold April night in 2019, and friends had just picked me up from the ferry in Vineyard Haven. The swirling road leading to the town of West Tisbury was dark. The estate we entered had no outdoor lights: just looming rocks and trees. And when the SUV started wobbling up the rocky terrain, I gasped. My reaction, however, had nothing to do with fear—rather, I was starstruck. 32 |

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Walter and Juliette Pryor on their deck overlooking Vineyard Sound; the entrance to the couple’s light-filled 4,100-square-foot home.

Up on the hill, there it stood: an off-white wood-frame midcentury home that seemed to glow from within. I’d been coming to the Vineyard for years, staying in the quaint gingerbread houses and Cape Cods in Oak Bluffs, where many fellow African Americans have congregated for decades. But this home didn’t look like any I’d seen in Martha’s Vineyard. Its striking facade was angular, with glass everywhere. A giant wall of windows invited us inside. My husband and I had recently returned from Phoenix, where we had spent a day at the winter home of the great Frank

Lloyd Wright, who famously blurred the inside and outside in his designs. Entering through the kitchen, I was struck by a large, beautiful installation of blue, high-gloss lacquered pantr y cabinets. The eating nook was framed by more windows, where Joelle, a New Yorker friend who had moved to Texas, and I drank wine as we laughed, mesmerized by the sea all weekend. Nestled on 3¼ acres, this magnificent home could not have been more comfortable: Sit on the white couches in the living room and look straight through the ex pansive house to NEWENGLAND.COM

3/11/22 10:27 AM

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT :

In the foyer is one of the family’s favorite paintings, “Big Mama,” by Rhonda K. Brown; adding a splash of color to the kitchen is “Orange Boat,” by Martha’s Vineyard photographer Jeff Serusa; looking east across the pool and patio.

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3/16/22 2:29 PM

The view toward the foyer from the living room. Above the bench seat is a photograph by Ross Oscar Knight titled “Top Lover”; it was taken in Haiti, where Juliette’s maternal family hails from.

MAY | JUNE 2022

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Vineyard Sound. Have a drink while gazing over the Elizabeth Islands, or turn east to a view that stretches across the water to the town of Falmouth. Wright envisioned living with nature, so he surrounded his home with succulents. Here, too, the expansive rearlandscape backyard was ornamented by dry plants that could have come straight from Arizona. Could this home be a Frank Lloyd Wright? Joelle’s older sister, Juliette Pryor, owns the home with her husband— and soulmate—Wa lter. Both are lawyers based in Atlanta. I had heard of Juliette from Joelle, and from having read an article about her as a leading corporate lawyer rock star. Both Juliette and Walter were known to be generous people, sponsoring family 36 |

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travel, being lay leaders in the church, sending money to Black colleges, and hosting school and social charities. Last summer, I returned to the 4,100-square-foot house and finally met the Pryors. I took everything in again. When you enter the living room, a spiral staircase leads you to the mezzanine, where you can stand behind glass railings and stare out at the sweeping green landscape. Up there, I noticed a swimming pool had been added where the succulents used to be. The Pryors are intentional in showcasing artists of color throughout the house: The bronze nude sculpture is by Susan Williams, a Black artist from Arkansas. Rhonda K. Brown created the large painting called “Big Mama” that greets you when you enter the house. The sculpture in the pow-

FROM LEFT :

To the side of the living room fireplace stands a Ndebele doll acquired by Juliette’s mother during her travels on the African continent; bold textiles and artwork by Valery Krasilnikov bring joyful color to a guest bedroom.

der room called “The Fisherman” is by a Mexican artist named Hugo Tovar. Walter promised that Juliette would be coming soon, and he led me through the home: With f ive bedrooms and four and a half bathrooms, aside from a mezzanine, there’s a foyer, a family room, and two laundry rooms. A large portrait of the Pryors’ two now-grown children, Adjua and Wade, overlooks the stunning living room. “Juliette,” Walter said, “worked closely with the interior designer. She had a good idea about what she wanted. But of course, I helped. We do NEWENGLAND.COM

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almost everything together.” Juliette, who had been on the phone with her brother, the poet and actor Saul Williams, joined us, mentioning that they had started coming to the Vineyard about 20 years ago. Walter burst out laughing. “We’d rent the same little house in Oak Bluffs. We looked like the Beverly Hillbillies. We’d pack up a cooler, go to Costco, and spend the week cooking. At the end of the first week, our daughter said, ‘Oh my God ... can we do this again?’” They started to bring their siblings, nieces, and nephews, as well as their parents, until they had to rent

On the day the Pryors decided to buy the house, Walter found Juliette’s mother in a room, crying. “I’m just so happy and proud of you guys,” she said.

Serving the Lakes and Mountains (603) 279-4045 Meredith, NH Mike and Julie Hayward, owners of Hayward & Company

haywardandcompany.com 38 |

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bigger homes. Over the years, Juliette loved that her two Black children could go out and play or attend parties without police bothering them. “I never worried. It was like living in a bygone time.” Each summer, they’d make sure to spend time with their local realtor, looking at typical Cape Cods and cottages. “At one point we were moving around. Every time we moved, we’d buy a brick colonial,” said Juliette. “Maryland, D.C., and Chicago, we’d buy the same traditional houses that I grew up in or similar to the ones we vacationed in.” During an anniversary trip to Chicago, they toured one of Wright’s homes, which impressed them. NEWENGLAND.COM

3/11/22 10:32 AM

“Juliette was more intentional around doing something different than what we had done,” said Walter. That’s when things started to change : “When we moved to Chicago, we took our traditional house and made it modern inside,” Juliette said. They also started changing up things in the Vineyard and got serious about buying; the realtor led them to the midcentury modern in West Tisbury. On the day in 2017, the day the couple would decide whether to purchase it, their entire tribe arrived at the home. Walter found Juliette’s mother in a room, crying. “I’m just so happy and proud of you guys,” she said. The whole family knew this was the right house. Also that day, Gail Lofberg, the seller, showed up. Now in her eighties, she connected to the couple immediately. When Walter led the family to a circle of prayer, Lof berg asked them to pray for her son who had just passed away. They remained in touch, and she even sold them art she had collected. The Lof bergs had one of the first fundraisers for Barack Obama. Following suit, the Pryors held a fund-raiser for national political figures from Georgia, where they live. “We just felt it has all come full circle,” Juliette said. Finally, I asked my burning question: “Is this a Wright home?” Walter cleared it up. “It’s patterned after Frank Lloyd Wright’s honeycomb house, or Hannah House, that sits on Stanford’s campus. Wright designed that house using hexagons, which means, at least in the honeycomb house, there are no right angles at all. In our house, there are a few, but not many.” Gail Lofberg explained a bit more. She and her husband, Richard, knew Eleanore Pettersen, one of Wright’s last students and apprentices, and decided to have her be the architect. “I knew it,” I told her. Mystery solved! MAY | JUNE 2022

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F R E E P O R T, P O R T L A N D A N D S C A R B O R O U G H | M A I N E C H I LT O N S . C O M

KENZAI STOOL

| 39

3/11/22 10:32 AM

Home

OPEN STUDIO

Making a Splash Kate Nelligan’s seaside designs take a bold dive into color. BY ANNIE GR AVES PHOTOS BY WINK Y LEWIS

n Kate Nelligan’s coastal world, sea urchins the size of dinner plates f loat over navy blue pillows. Buoys bright as confetti jostle on a rug. Bolts of fabric teem with rainbow fish, and boat silhouettes are awash in tones she calls “Hot Lobster” red and “Granny Smith” green. What could be more satisfying than growing up by the ocean, seeing it through your own color lens, and capturing it? “Life’s too short for beige,” reads a scrap of paper tacked to a wall in Nelligan’s vibrant Kennebunkport, Maine, studio, a 350-square-foot space tucked into her home, t wo miles down a dirt road “with the owls, birds, pine, and birch,” she says, but still just a seven-minute drive to the sea. If life is a color wheel, with conventional beige-y seaside decor on one side, this little studio is its defiant counterpart. Nelligan grew up in Kennebunkport, with a “creative hippie mom” who was also the head of an alternative school and a cutting-edge teacher in the ’70s. “There were art projects on the table all the time,” Nelligan recalls. “We weren’t allowed to watch television. My mother would say, 40 |

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NEWENGLAND.COM

3/10/22 11:47 AM

OPPOSITE : Kate Nelligan at her studio in Kennebunkport, Maine, the town where

she grew up and an inspiration for her eye-catching coastal designs. THIS PAGE : Snapshots of Nelligan’s creative process and, at the Portland outpost of her two Local Color shops (TOP LEFT), pillows block-printed with her icons of seaside living.

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3/10/22 11:48 AM

Home

OPEN STUDIO

‘Only boring people get bored.’ So I was always making something.” At Christmastime, the creativity would crank up, with handmade presents for everyone in their extended family. “It was like a factory,” she says. “Because you didn’t make just four presents—you were making 20. My sister got off easy, because she always made something from the kitchen, but I was making stained glass or Ukrainian Easter eggs….” Nelligan f lashes a smile. “I really haven’t changed since I was 5.” Art was her “default button.” But it was a twisty road. She got a degree in communications, had a brief f ling with an ad agency, then settled into the University of New England as a media producer for 10 years. She shot videos, learned digital editing, and gained skills that would lead to designing and developing products for other companies. All the while, she was creating in her basement, making decoupage barrettes, learning to use a heat press to sear her own lobster designs into 42 |

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From her roots in fabric design, Nelligan has branched out into everything from dishware and wrapping paper to hooked wool rugs.

ceramic tiles; she was selling at trade shows, too. One day she began tinkering with bold graphic designs that would eventually translate into startlingly fresh fabrics. “Digital fabric printing was happening, and I was getting a whiff of that,” she remembers. “And at the same time I was falling in love with block printing again, making a pattern, and scanning it into the computer. I was having so much fun.” That first pattern, a medallion made from a block print she carved, is still in the repertoire. From the start, her themes leaned coastal. “I was always drawn to the graphic nature of Marimekko, and wanted to do a new take on the sea motifs,” she recalls. “My husband’s a fisherman, so I sort of fell in love with fish and shells. And I grew up as a barefoot kid on the beach—we were always in the ocean, on the ocean, climbing the rocks. It’s the background to my life.”

Before she knew it, around 2011, she was in production mode again, this time making pillows, deep into designing. “I love making something from nothing. It’s my favorite thing in life,” she says. When she’s working on a new design, “I can see what I want to create; I just have to get it out the right way. I can feel when it takes off. And when it’s coming together, it’s talking back to me. Like, move me over here, that line’s too thick, this color’s not working with that color. All designs need to cook. But when the chatter dies down, when it’s quiet, I know it’s done.” And the next year, when Nelligan stepped away from the corporate world, she was ready. At that point, as she recounts, “I have all these mad skills: I know how to make, I know how to pitch, I know how to do a trade show, I know how to make a catalog. I apply for the New England Product trade show in Portland, and I make all my samples, and it takes off.” Today, Nelligan’s two Local Color shops overf low with pillows, rugs, and home accessories, brightening their respective stretches of sidewalk in Kennebunkport and Portland. “Playful,” she calls the designs, “ because they’re playing together.” It turns out, one of her superpowers is putting together a collection based on one perfect color palette, a palette that is her lens on Maine’s coastal beauty. “I can’t stay away from this place,” she says. “It’s hard for me to put into words. It’s part of me. Boats, swimming, fishing, the rocks, the beaches. It’s endless discovery, like the tide pools.” She points to a beautiful bolt of fabric, her current favorite, dense with blue mussels. “I love these shapes. I mean, every time I go to the beach, I’m still collecting mussel shells. Why? I don’t need any more. Because they’re beautiful. And I’ ll notice there’s a stripe on this one. And I’ll think, I’ve never seen a stripe like that.” katenelligandesign.com NEWENGLAND.COM

3/10/22 11:51 AM

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3/21/22 11:23 11:17 AM

Food

SUMMER DINING

Beach, Blanket The perfect picnic for a day by the sea—or anywhere else, for that matter. BY A M Y TR AV E R S O PHOTOS BY LINDA CAMPOS STYLING BY CHANTAL LAMBETH, ENNIS INC. (FOOD); KOREY SENEY (PROPS)

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NEWENGLAND.COM

3/16/22 2:31 PM

…Bingo!

Special thanks to Cape Cod’s own Chatham Bars Inn (chathambarsinn.com ) for hosting and assisting in our beach picnic photo shoot.

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The makings of a summer day to savor: Watermelon-Cucumber Cooler, Nectarine & Tomato Salad with Feta & Pistachios, French-Style Tuna Sandwiches, and Easy Blueberry-Pecan Crumble Bars.

3/16/22 2:34 PM

ON PACKING A PICNIC n I like to keep my picnics fairly simple. A large blanket helps keep sand away from food. Wood, bamboo, metal, or melamine plates and platters save you from having to worry about breakage. Don’t forget silverware, a good cutting knife, serving pieces, and napkins! n To keep everything cool, use freezer packs. Also, fill some water bottles three-quarters of the way and freeze them. They’ll serve double-duty as ice packs and, later, cold drinks. Keep the most perishable items at the bottom of your cooler, where it’s coldest. And use a separate cooler for sodas, since that gets opened and closed more often. n Bring separate bags for compostable food waste, garbage, and recyclables. A collapsible beach wagon with fat tires makes all the schlepping much more manageable.

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3/11/22 10:52 AM

SUMMER DINING

| Food

French-Style Tuna Sandwiches (Pan Bagnat) turn a humble picnic staple into a handheld bounty of seafood and fresh garden flavors.

he recipes in this very movable feast began with a craving for tuna. Not the mayo-slicked sandwiches of childhood lunchboxes, but something summery, tangy, vegetable-packed, and a little French. I thought of the sandwiches from Nice, France, called pan bagnat, that take the ingredients of classic Niçoise salad and layer them on crunchy country bread. So I piled tuna, tomato, green beans, olives, sliced egg, basil, and onions on ciabatta rolls with a drizzle of vinaigrette. They were fantastic. This became the starting point for an easy summer menu that works perfectly as a beach picnic but can just as well be served on a front porch or patio. To wash it down: a quick blender drink that’s not just refreshing, but also cooling, made with watermelon, cucumber, and mint. Serve it with ice, a splash of seltzer, and a bit of vodka if you’d like. And with a nod to the tomatoes and stone fruits coming into season, I came up with a simple and flavorful salad with feta, pistachios, and basil (you can serve this on a platter or, on windy days, opt for jars). The finale: very easy blueberry-pecan crumble bars. You make one dough and use it as both the crust and the crumble. It’s hard to eat just one. They’ll make you grateful for summer. | 49

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3/11/22 10:52 AM

Food

SUMMER DINING

1½ cans tuna (15 ounces) packed in olive oil, drained 2 large ripe tomatoes, sliced 18 large basil leaves 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced

Nectarine & Tomato Salad with Feta & Pistachios

FRENCH-STYLE TUNA SANDWICHES (PAN BAGNAT) The bold flavors of salade Niçoise informed this delicious sandwich, which is simple and sophisticated and, with its abundant veggies and olive oil dressing, quite healthy. Wrap it up in parchment paper to take to the beach or serve it on a platter at home. And one note: The anchovies are optional, but they really do add terrific flavor.

WatermelonCucumber Cooler

50 |

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6 2 4 1½ 3 5 30 6 ¾

tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil garlic cloves, minced tablespoons red wine vinegar tablespoons Dijon mustard anchovy fillets, minced (optional) large eggs green beans ciabatta rolls (or other crusty rolls) cup sliced pitted olives, preferably a mix of types

In a jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine the olive oil, garlic, vinegar, mustard, and anchovies. Shake well and set aside. Fill a 3- or 4-quart pot of water and bring to a boil. Set a big bowl of ice water next to the stove. When the water is boiling, gently lower the eggs and the green beans into the water. Set a timer for 7 minutes. As soon as the alarm goes off, drop the beans and eggs into the ice water. Let them cool for several minutes, then drain. Peel the eggs and cut crosswise into four slices. Meanwhile, cut the rolls in half and lay them, cut side up, on a cutting board. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of the dressing on the top half of each roll. Divide the olives equally among the rolls, laying them on the bottom halves of the rolls. Top the olives with about ¼ cup tuna per sandwich. Lay a couple of slices of tomato over the tuna, then the basil, then the onions, the beans, the eggs, and finally the top half of the roll. If transporting, wrap each sandwich in parchment paper or plastic wrap. Serve the sandwiches with extra dressing on the side, if desired. Yields 6 servings. NECTARINE & TOMATO SALAD WITH FETA & PISTACHIOS With just nine ingredients, this salad offers the most delicious combination of sweetness, acidity, salt, crunch, and color. 1½ pounds grape tomatoes, halved 3 ripe nectarines, cut into 1-inch chunks 3 ounces feta, crumbled 1 small red onion, diced ¹⁄ 3 cup firmly packed basil leaves, roughly chopped ¼ cup chopped parsley leaves ½ cup shelled, salted pistachios, roughly chopped 4 tablespoons good balsamic vinegar 4 tablespoons olive oil NEWENGLAND.COM

3/11/22 10:53 AM

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3/15/22 4:38 PM

Food

SUMMER DINING

1¼ cups plus 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour ½ cup chopped pecans ½ cup granulated sugar ½ teaspoon table salt 8 tablespoons cold salted butter, cut into cubes 3 cups (1 pound) frozen blueberries, defrosted, with juices reserved 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¹⁄ 3 cup confectioners’ sugar

Easy Blueberry-Pecan Crumble Bars

In a large bowl, toss the tomatoes with the nectarines, feta, onion, basil, and parsley. Just before serving, toss the pistachios over the salad, then drizzle with the vinegar and oil. Serve at room temperature. Yields 6 servings. WATERMELON-CUCUMBER COOLER On hot summer days, why not take the two most traditionally cooling ingredients, watermelon and cucumber, and combine them with mint and lime juice to make an ultra-refreshing drink? The seltzer is a perfect finish, but you can also add a glug of vodka and call it a cocktail. For a slushy treat, freeze the watermelon chunks before blending. 2¼ pounds peeled watermelon, cut into large chunks ½ medium cucumber (6 ounces), peeled and cut into large chunks 1½ cups water ¼ cup granulated sugar 52 |

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Juice of 2 limes 2 tablespoons packed fresh mint leaves Seltzer

In a blender, combine the watermelon, cucumber, water, sugar, lime juice, and mint leaves. Blend on high until the mixture is very smooth and liquid. To serve, fill a cup three-quarters full with the watermelon mixture, then top with a splash of seltzer. Yields 6 to 8 servings. EASY BLUEBERRY-PECAN CRUMBLE BARS Maine blueberries and Southern pecans may grow in distinctly different geographies, but they play so nicely together, especially in the presence of a dash of cinnamon. These crumble bars use the same shortbread dough in the crust and in the topping, and the pretty blueberry glaze on top makes them really pop.

Preheat your oven to 375° and line a 9-inch-square bak ing pan with enough parchment that it hangs over two sides (these “handles” will help you remove the bars from the pan later). In the bowl of a food processor, pulse 1¼ cups f lour, pecans, granulated sugar, and salt until fully blended. Sprinkle in the butter and process until the mi xt ure comes together, 15 to 20 seconds. Take three-quarters of this mixture and press it in an even layer in the bottom of the baking pan. Set the remaining f lour-pecan mixture aside. This will be your crumble topping. Spoon out 1 tablespoon of the thawed blueberry juice into a small bowl and set aside. Take the rest of the blueberries and their juices and mix with 3 tablespoons f lour and the cinnamon. Pour this mixture over the crust. Take the reserved dough, break it into little crumbles, and sprinkle over the blueberries. Bake the bars until the crumbles just begin to brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool in the pan until f irm and set. Meanwhile, combine the reserved tablespoon of blueberry juice with the confectioners’ sugar and stir until smooth. Using the parchment paper handles, remove the bars from the pan and cut into 12 squares. Set the squares on a wire rack to cool completely. Use the tines of a fork to drizzle the blueberry glaze over the squares. Let this set, then serve at room temperature. Yields 12 servings. NEWENGLAND.COM

3/17/22 12:15 PM

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3/18/22 11:02 AM

Food

IN SEASON

Amy Traverso is Yankee’s senior food editor and cohost of our TV show, Weekends with Yankee (weekendswithyankee.com).

Asparagus Gouda Tart A late-spring treat inspired by “Hadley Grass.” BY A MY TR AVER SO ST YLED AND PHOTOGR APHED BY

L I Z N E I LY

spa ra g us is suc h a n unusual plant, primeval in appearance, a perennial vegetable in a world of annuals (only rhubarb and ramps share that designation in New England’s growing zones). Properly tended, asparagus beds can produce fresh stalks for up to 30 years. And yet for all this exoticism, many New Englanders know asparagus as the very local plant that made Hadley, Massachusetts, famous. The socalled Hadley Grass thrived in the rich alluvial soils there and became celebrated around the world. That heritage lives on today, culminating every year 54 |

YK0522_Food_InSeason.indd 54

on the first Saturday in June with the New England Public Media Asparagus Festival on the Hadley town common. The best asparagus is the just-picked kind from the farmers’ market or your own backyard. When shopping, look for firm, smooth stalks that can stand up straight. The color should be bright green. Any thickness is fine, but choose uniform bunches so that you can cook them evenly. To store, trim the stalks and stand them up in about an inch of water at room temperature for a couple of days. Then use this delicious vegetable in any number of ways: simply roasted with olive oil, salt, and pepper;

grilled; blanched in salads; or in this pretty tart with Gouda, black pepper, and ample shavings of lemon zest. ASPARAGUS GOUDA TART Any kind of store-bought puff pastry will work here. My favorite brands are Dufour and Trader Joe’s, as they are made with butter. Pepperidge Farm is made without butter, but it’s a fine substitute. 1 sheet store-bought puff pastry (if frozen, thaw in refrigerator beforehand) 1 bunch (1 pound) asparagus spears, dry ends trimmed NEWENGLAND.COM

3/10/22 11:59 AM

2 ¹⁄ 3 ¼ ¼ ¼

large eggs cup heavy cream teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon table salt teaspoon freshly grated black pepper 1¼ cups grated Gouda cheese Zest of half a lemon, for garnish Crushed red pepper flakes, for garnish

Preheat your oven to 400°. Set a rack to the middle position. Meanwhile, fill a 3- or 4-quart pot with water and set it over high heat. Set a large bowl of ice water next to the stove. Lay the puff pastry between two layers of parchment paper and roll out to a 10-by-13-inch rectangle. Remove the top sheet of parchment. Using a ruler and a sharp knife, lightly score a 1-inch border around the tart, making sure not to cut all the way through. This will puff up and form the edge of the tart. To keep the middle from puffing, poke it all over with a fork. Set the pastry (on the parchment) on a baking sheet and refrigerate while you get the rest of the ingredients ready. Blanch the asparagus in the boiling water until it’s just starting to bend, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from the pot and immediately drop into ice water, then drain and dry. Bake the pastr y until it’s just beginning to turn golden and the sides start to puff up, 10 to 12 minutes. Meanwhile, make the filling: In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, nutmeg, salt, and black pepper. Stir in cheese. Spread the filling over the middle of the tart, leaving the border uncovered. Trim your asparagus stalks into different lengths and arrange them in an artful pattern over the filling. Return the tart to the oven and bake until the crust is nicely browned and the filling is set, 20 to 25 minutes. Garnish with a generous sprinkle of lemon zest and crushed red pepper f lakes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Yields 6 to 8 servings. MAY | JUNE 2022

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ELECTRIC GRILLS Since 1931

| 55

3/18/22 11:13 AM

Food

RECIPE REMAKE

Deviled Eggs Three Ways A classic Yankee recipe updated for today’s kitchens. STORY AND PHOTO BY

K AT HER INE K EEN AN

A recipe for “Hot Deviled Eggs” in Yankee’s February 1950 issue ( TOP) gave rise to these piquant spin-offs, which feature ginger and sriracha, bacon and caramelized onion, and baked-potato fixings including jalapeño.

56 |

YK0522_Food_RecipeRemake.indd 56

elicious, protein-packed, and relatively easy to make, deviled eggs are often one of the first things to disappear at social gatherings. And I should know: At a picnic, I’ll sheepishly reach for my first. Sneak a second. Squirrel away a third. Despite my love for deviled eggs, I’ve long been reluctant to make them for myself—maybe because it feels as if they belong only in their natural habitat, on vinyl-covered tables alongside other potluck foods. But in the end, I like them too much to limit myself to picnic season. In fact, I believe deviled eggs are about to enter a well-deserved renaissance. I recently spotted fried deviled eggs on a happy-hour menu, for instance, while one of my favorite restaurants, the Black Birch in Kittery, Maine, offers a rotating variety of creative deviled egg f lavors (e.g., beet/feta/candied orange, ginger/chili/apple). None disappoint. For t h is i nst a l l ment of R ec ip e Remake, the Yankee archives offered up a few different deviled egg options, but I found myself drawn to—and a bit perplexed by—“Hot Deviled Eggs.” This 1950 recipe calls for a cooked mixture of tomatoes, peppers, and hot sauce to be combined with a creamy sauce and sliced eggs. While that doesn’t sound even vaguely appetizing, I was struck by the idea of spicy deviled eggs. That sparked more inspiration, and suddenly I had three deviled egg recipes I’d be happy to make at home, or at my next cookout. NEWENGLAND.COM

3/10/22 12:04 PM

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Food

RECIPE REMAKE

MASTER INSTRUCTIONS For any of the recipes below, begin by bringing a large pot of water to a boil. Gently lower the eggs into the water and cook for 10 minutes. Then transfer the eggs into a large bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process. (Cooking the eggs this way makes them much easier to peel.) When completely cooled, peel and slice the eggs lengthwise and separate the yolks from the whites. In a food processor, combine the yolks with all ingredients except for garnishes, and process until smooth. Scoop or pipe the filling into the egg whites and top with garnishes. SPICY GINGER DEVILED EGGS 12 eggs ¼ cup sriracha ¹⁄ 3 cup mayonnaise 1 1-inch piece of ginger 1 garlic clove, peeled 1 teaspoon rice vinegar 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons black sesame seeds, for garnish Thinly sliced scallions, for garnish LOADED BAKED POTATO DEVILED EGGS 12 eggs ¼ cup chopped chives, plus more for garnish ¹⁄ 3 cup sour cream ½ cup grated cheddar 1 jalapeño, stem and seeds removed 1 teaspoon mustard 1 teaspoon salt 12 potato chips, for garnish BACON AND CARAMELIZED ONION DEVILED EGGS 12 eggs ¹⁄ 3 cup mayonnaise 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced and caramelized 1 teaspoon mustard 1 teaspoon salt 6 slices cooked bacon, crumbled into small pieces, for garnish Crispy fried onions, for garnish NEWENGLAND.COM

3/10/22 12:06 PM

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“LONG POINT LIGHT”

On the northeast tip of Long Point Beach in Provincetown Forrest Pirovano’s painting “Long Point Light” shows a simple white square tower.. Provincetown Harbor, with its cold waters rich in marine life, has a long history of attracting fishermen. In 1818 there was a salt works and a fishing settlement at Long Point. Long Point Lighthouse was constructed in 1827 by an act of Congress to establish a lighthouse to guide ships into the harbor and warn them of a sandbar that extended seaward a quarter mile from the tip of the point. Although the village of 38 fishing families disbanded, several of the historic “floater” homes are still standing. Today the U.S Coast Guard owns and controls the lighthouse. This beautiful limited-edition print of an original oil painting, is individually numbered and signed by the artist.

This exquisite print is bordered by a museum-quality white-on-white double mat, measuring 11x14 inches. Framed in either a black or white 1½-inch-deep wood frame, this limited-edition print measures 12¼x15¼ inches and is priced at only $149. Matted but unframed this print is priced at $109. Prices include shipping and packaging. Forrest Pirovano is a Cape Cod artist whose paintings capture the picturesque landscape and seascapes of the Cape, which have a universal appeal. His paintings often include the many antique wooden sailboats and iconic lighthouses for which Cape Cod is known.

FORREST PIROVANO, artist P.O. Box 1011 • Mashpee, MA 02649 Visit our studio in Mashpee Commons, Cape Cod All major credit cards are welcome. Please send card name, card number, expiration date, code number & billing ZIP code. Checks are also accepted.…Or you can call Forrest at 781-858-3691.…Or you can pay through our website www.forrestcapecodpaintings.com

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2/25/22 3/16/22 11:26 1:04 PM AM

MilliesPierogi_0308

1/2/08

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NEWENGLAND.COM

3/18/22 10:56 AM

ArtRobtSextnPromise0108

I can paint your pet.

11/19/07

10:05 AM

Page 1

The Promise A Most Unusual Gift of Love

A beautiful oil painting on canvas by artist Forrest Pirovano ...with plein air wood frame. Why wait? Give us a call today! Forrest Pirovano, artist 781-858-3691 Mashpee Commons, Cape Cod forrestcapecodpaintings.com/pets.htm

THE POEM READS:

A Most Unusual Gift of Love “Across the years I will walk with you— in deep, green forests; on shores of sand: and when our time on earth is through, POEM READS : in heaven, too,THE you will have my hand,”

“Across the years I will walk with you— Dear Reader, The drawing you see above is called The Promise. It is completely composed of green forests; on ashores ofplaced sand: dots ofin ink.deep, After writing the poem, I worked with quill pen and thousands of these dots, one at a time, to create this gift in honor of my youngest brother and and when our time on earth is through, his wife. Now, I have decided to offer The Promise to those who share and value its in heaven, too, you will have my hand.” sentiment. Each litho is numbered and signed by hand and precisely captures the detail of the drawing. As a wedding, anniversary or Valentine’s gift or simply as a Dear Reader, standard for your own home, I believe you will find it most appropriate. The drawing you see above called Promise.” It isfully-framed completely composed dots oftone ink. After Measuring 14" byis16", it is“The available either in a subtleofcopper writing the poem, I worked with a quill pen and placed thousands of these dots, one at a time, to with hand-cut double mats of pewter and rust at $145*, or in the mats alone at create this gift in honor of my youngest brother and his wife. $105*. Please add $18.95 for insured shipping. Returns/exchanges within 30 days. Now, I have decided to offer “The Promise” to those who share and value its sentiment. Each My bestand wishes are by with you. litho is numbered signed hand and precisely captures the detail of the drawing. As a wedELECTRIC GRILLS Since 1931

ding, anniversarySextonart or Valentine’s or simply a standard for your own Inc.gift • P.O. Boxas581 • Rutherford, CA home, 94573I believe you will find it most appropriate. (415) 989-1630 Measuring 14" by 16", it is available either fully framed in a subtle copper tone with hand-cut All major credit cards are welcomed. Please call between 10 A.M.-5 P.M. mats of pewter and rust at $110, or in the mats alone at $95. Please add $14.50 for insured shipping Standardguaranteed. Time, 7 days a week. and packaging. Your satisfactionPacific is completely Checks are also accepted. Please include a phone number. My best wishes are with you. *California residents please 8.0% tax The Art of Robert Sexton, 491 Greenwich St. include (at Grant), San Francisco, CA 94133

Please visit our at card number, address and expiraMASTERCARD and VISA orders welcome. Please sendwebsite card name, tion date, or phone (415) 989-1630 between noon-8 P.M. EST. Checks are also accepted. Please allow 3 weeks for delivery.

www.robertsexton.com

MAY | JUNE 2022

“The Promise” is featured with many other recent works in my book, “Journeys of the Human Heart.” | 63 It, too, is available from the address above at $12.95 per copy postpaid. Please visit my Web site at

www.robertsexton.com

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3/18/22 10:56 AM

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NEWENGLAND.COM

3/11/22 11:46 AM

PHOTOS BY C ATE BROW N AND MICHAEL D. WILSON

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The Lobster Shack at Two Lights, ME

Shining Sea Bikeway, MA

Stonington Harbor, CT

Portland Head Light, ME

3/16/22 2:42 PM

seafood THE JOY OF

Summer Travel Special

SHACKS

Food editor Amy Traverso’s 25 favorite spots have all the essential ingredients: a salty breeze, a water view, and a heaping (paper) plate of just-caught seafood.

BEST WATERFRONT Abbott’s Lobster in the Rough, Noank No shack in Connecticut has more dockside real estate than Abbott’s, which means you can enjoy that chowder and hot, buttered lobster roll right on the docks. abbottslobster.com BEST SOMETHING-FOR-EVERYONE Ford’s Lobster, Noank Ford’s signature may be the Lobster Bomb (a lobsterfilled bread bowl topped with bisque), but there’s also lobster mac ’n’ cheese and risotto, plus steaks and burgers for landlubbers. fordslobster.com BEST HOT-AND-BUTTERED ROLL Lobster Landing, Clinton Owner Enea Bacci knows the secret to a hot lobster roll is the gentlest heat, a drizzle of butter, and the lightest squeeze of lemon. Facebook

MAINE BEST LOBSTER ROLL VARIATIONS Beal’s Lobster Pier, Southwest Harbor 66 |

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From classic to spicy buffalo to “garlic lovah’s” to glutenfree, Beal’s Lobster Pier has a roll for everyone. bealslobster.com BEST ROLL-AND-A-STROLL The Clam Shack, Kennebunk Set right in the village, the Clam Shack serves an excellent lobster roll and fried seafood within walking distance of some of the best shopping in the region. theclamshack.net BEST COASTAL VIEW Five Islands Lobster Co., Georgetown The namesake islands at the mouth of the Sheepscot River form a stunning backdrop for local lobsters and terrific fried seafood. fiveislandslobster.com BEST SHACK SWEETS Harraseeket Lunch & Lobster Company, Freeport We love the seafood here, but we especially love the homemade desserts, from whoopie pies to strawberry shortcake. harraseeket lunchandlobster.com

BEST LIGHTHOUSE VIEW The Lobster Shack at Two Lights, Cape Elizabeth Here, you get crashing waves, thisclose water access, great lobster rolls, and a nearby lighthouse to ogle (plus a tasty lobster stew). lobstershacktwolights.com BEST MAINE-STYLE LOBSTER ROLL McLoons Lobster Shack, South Thomaston This little red hut surrounded by spruce trees serves the best rolls in Maine. Don’t miss the homemade pie. mcloonslobster.com BEST HARBOR VIEW Thurston’s Lobster Pound, Bernard At the southwestern tip of Mount Desert Island, Thurston’s offers excellent boiled lobster and gorgeous views of Bass Harbor, where the lobster catch comes in daily. thurstonforlobster.com BEST HIDDEN GEM Wharf Gallery & Grill, Corea Run by a former lobsterman, this shack doubles as an art gallery, fitting for a town that has long attracted artists.

Start with local oysters and end with the blueberry pie. corealunch.com

MASSACHUSETTS BEST CLAM CHOWDER Chatham Pier Fish Market, Chatham This chowder has incredible flavor and just the right

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/11/22 11:01 AM

ALEX GAGNE

CONNECTICUT

A maritime backdrop adds to the flavor at Abbott’s Lobster in the Rough, a Connecticut institution since 1947.

BEST OLD-SCHOOL Roy Moore Lobster Co., Rockport Now in its 104th season, Roy Moore’s serves superbly fresh, no-frills lobsters and creamy chowder on a small deck perched above Rockport Harbor. Facebook BEST BEACH SNACKS Sesuit Harbor Café, Dennis Just steps from Harborview and Cold Storage beaches, this spot serves breakfast (a seafood shack rarity), lunch, and dinner and makes notably tasty fried seafood. sesuit-harbor-cafe.com

NEW HAMPSHIRE

ALEX GAGNE

thickness. Eat on the adjacent deck and watch the seals swim up to the fishing boats. chathampierfishmkt.com BEST SUNSETS The Lobster Pool, Rockport It’s rare to find a New England seafood shack where you can watch the sun sink into the sea, but

MAY | JUNE 2022

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the unique geography here gives you the perfect view. thelobsterpool.com BEST ON-THE-BEACH Mac’s on the Pier, Wellfleet On the beach in Wellfleet Harbor, Mac’s lets you eat fantastic seafood while feeling the sand between your toes. macsseafood.com

RHODE ISLAND BEST CLAM FRITTERS Aunt Carrie’s, Narragansett All the food is great here, but the clam fritters, served hot and fresh in a paper bag, are well worth the drive. auntcarriesri.com BEST COMBO Blount Clam Shack on the Waterfront, Warren Chowder and clam cakes are the order of choice at this permanent food truck spot on the water. blountretail.com BEST FRESH-OFF-THE-DOCK SEAFOOD Champlin’s Seafood Deck, Galilee Watch the fishing boats come into the Galilee port, docking at Champlin’s own docks to unload the freshest catch. champlins.com

BEST CHOOSE-YOUR-OWN LOBSTER Brown’s Lobster Pound, Seabrook This New Hampshire institution lets you pick your own lobster from the large tanks in the front room before you sit down to dinner. brownslobsterpound.com

BEST BARGAIN Easton’s Beach Snack Bar, Newport The twin lobster rolls are one of the most outstanding deals in Rhode Island. Bonus: The restaurant sits on the beach at the end of the famous Cliff Walk. eastonsbeach.com

BEST STEAMERS Markey’s Lobster Pool, Seabrook The signature order at Markey’s, located across from Brown’s: a cold beer and a big pile of tasty steamers. markeyslobsterpound.com

BEST DOCK-AND-DINE Evelyn’s Drive-in, Tiverton Overlooking Nanaquaket Pond, Evelyn’s is a popular dock-and-dine destination for boaters and a magnet for fans of clam cakes and clear broth chowder. evelynsdrivein.com

BEST FOR LOBSTER LOVERS Rye Harbor Lobster Pound, Rye This tiny shack is worth seeking out for its lobster pizza, lobster mac n’ cheese, and hot roll bathed in sherry butter. Facebook

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY Monahan’s Clam Shack, Narragansett With a water-view patio, lawn games, great seafood, and ice cream, Monahan’s is a hit with the kiddos. monahansri.com | 67

3/11/22 11:01 AM

Summer Travel Special

QUIET

coastal TOWNS

On the water and under the radar, these seven towns oﬀer a crowd-free summer escape.

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NEWENGLAND.COM

3/16/22 2:36 PM

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT : Stonington, CT; Winter Harbor, ME; oysters at the Shuck Station in Newcastle, ME

WINTER HARBOR, ME More than 3.5 million visitors each year have made Mount Desert Island’s Acadia National Park one of America’s most loved treasures. And rightly so. But a 30-minute ferry ride from Bar Harbor brings you to this fishing village gem along the Schoodic Peninsula. The sixmile Loop Road around the peninsula to Schoodic Point bestows breathtaking sea views that have brought artists here for years. Those who discover this village of fewer than 500 people all ask the same question: “Why haven’t we come here before?” ✹ Don’t Miss: Every table has a sea view at the Frazier Point picnic area along the Loop Road. ✹ Order Up: J.M. Gerrish Café serves tasty breakfast and lunch fare, with lobsters right off the boats in the harbor. ✹ Sleep Tight: The four-room Winter Harbor Inn sits in the village center, and it not only welcomes your pet but also offers grooming right on the premises. Prefer to rough it? Acadia’s Schoodic Woods Campground, the only mainland campground in the park, is just three miles from the village.

D A M A R I S C O T TA & NEWCASTLE, ME Eight miles north of tourist-magnet Wiscasset on busy Route 1, you come to the twin villages of Damariscotta and Newcastle, linked by the Main Street Bridge over the Damariscotta River. The tidal river, some 20 miles from

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open sea, is known around the country for its oysters, and the 4,000 people who live in these two villages have long savored their location in the heart of the Pemaquid Peninsula, with its picturesque lighthouse, walking trails, and snug harbor with fishing boats at anchor. ✹ Don’t Miss: Stroll the main streets of the twin villages and then drive the quiet, twisty roads of the Pemaquid Peninsula that offer photo stops around practically every bend. ✹ Order Up: In the heart of oyster country, you can’t go wrong with local eateries. Favorites include the Shuck Station, King Eider’s Pub, Damariscotta River Grill, and River House. ✹ Sleep Tight: The Newcastle Inn, once home to a sea captain, sits on the river just steps from Newcastle’s pretty downtown. The Mill Pond Inn, two miles from Damariscotta, provides a lakefront setting for freshwater lovers.

STONINGTON, CT Only minutes away from Mystic Seaport is this peninsula borough (population | 69

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Odiorne Point State Park in Rye, NH

RYE, NH Amid only 18 miles of coastline in all of New Hampshire, this town of 5,400 stands out for its compact state park, beaches, and picture-perfect harbor. ✹ Don’t Miss: Hit the walking trails at Odiorne Point State Park and stop in at the kid-favorite Seacoast Science Center, where getting your hands wet in tidepool demos is encouraged. ✹ Order Up: Dine on the outside deck overlooking the sea at Ray’s Seafood Restaurant. Coffee lovers will want to 70 |

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linger at the roastery/café La Mulita, a labor of love for Colombian-born Max Pruna and his wife, Andrea. ✹ Sleep Tight: The 27-room Inn at Rye Place is a modern motel a short drive from the ocean, while six miles north the historic grand hotel Wentworth by the Sea has reigned over the New Hampshire coast since 1874.

JAM ESTOW N, RI This close-knit community of 5,500 sits at the mouth of Narragansett Bay, and while the bridge to nearby Newport is always present, locals take pride that their town’s seaside beauty still remains without streets filling with day-trippers. Concerts at East Ferry Memorial Park keep the feel of a small-town summer. ✹ Don’t Miss: Historic New England’s working 285-acre Watson Farm allows visitors to walk a two-mile trail that includes a beach and meadows overlooking the bay. See the lighthouse at Beavertail State Park, then stay for the gorgeous sunset. ✹ Order Up: Slice of Heaven is that local favorite you hope to find on vacation: a diner/café with specialty baked goods, sandwiches, and great burgers. Sitting outside by the bay is a bonus.

✹ Sleep Tight: The cozy six-room East Bay Bed & Breakfast is a quick walk from the village center and the Newport ferry dock, and its bountiful breakfast will fuel you for the day ahead. S C I T U AT E , M A Beach lovers on their way to Cape Cod often bypass the towns south of Boston—and that’s fine with those who have already discovered places like Scituate, which after a detour from Route 3 brings you to a lighthouse, five beaches along Cape Cod Bay, and a snug harbor with shops and restaurants. ✹ Don’t Miss: After purchasing a visitor’s pass from the harbormaster, you can take your pick of Minot, Sand Hills, Egypt, Peggotty, and Humarock beaches. The Maritime and Irish Mossing Museum honors the Irish settlers who came to Scituate to harvest its distinctive moss. ✹ Order Up: Sit on the outside deck at Mill House Restaurant, or feel the history in a former 17th-century home at Barker Tavern. ✹ Sleep Tight: All 29 rooms at the Inn at Scituate Harbor look out to the harbor and lighthouse. A perk is passes to local beaches.

T H I S PAG E , C A R L T R E M B L AY; P R E V I O US SP R E A D, C AT E B R O W N ( H A R B O R ) ; C A R L T R E M B L AY (P I C N I C K ER S); M I C H A EL D. W I L S O N (OY S T ER S)

less than 1,000) made for strolling with narrow streets lined with cafés, shops, and historic homes. Visitors can savor seafood harvested by local commercial fishermen, and plan short drives to vineyards that thrive close to the water. ✹ Don’t Miss: Visit the Old Lighthouse Museum, and climb to the tower for a sweeping vista. ✹ Order Up: Wherever you stop, ask for scallops and the local Stonington shrimp. Two Water Street standbys are Noah’s and Dog Watch Café. ✹ Sleep Tight: Overlooking the harbor, the elegant Inn at Stonington has been touted by Yankee as one of New England’s most romantic inns.

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/16/22 2:43 PM

F R O M TO P: S AY B R O O K P O I N T R E S O R T & M A R I N A , 25 0 M A I N H OT E L & M I G I S H OT E L G R O U P; W H I T E E L E P H A N T R E S O R T S ; B R E A K WAT E R H OT E L

Summer Travel Special

OCEANSIDE

overnights Nine top hotel stays for those looking to save a few clams, or shell out big, in peak season.

F R O M TO P: S AY B R O O K P O I N T R E S O R T & M A R I N A , 25 0 M A I N H OT E L & M I G I S H OT E L G R O U P; W H I T E E L E P H A N T R E S O R T S ; B R E A K WAT E R H OT E L

$ Breakwater Hotel Completely renovated in 2019, the 26-room Breakwater offers P-town’s biggest bang for the buck, placing guests a minute from the beach and within an easy stroll of the heart of Commercial Street action. Provincetown, MA; breakwaterhotel.com $ 250 Main Hotel Most rooms have harbor views and some have balconies, but all guests have access to the hotel’s rooftop deck, where daily afternoon wine tastings are held in good weather. Rockland, ME; 250mainhotel.com $$ Saybrook Point Resort & Marina Situated where the Connecticut River meets Long Island Sound, this 82room travel trifecta (inn, spa, marina) matches pampering with maximum all-around water views. Old Saybrook, CT; saybrook.com $$ Spruce Point Inn Diffuse ocean light surrounds this 1892 resort at the tip of the peninsula separating Boothbay Harbor from Linekin Bay. Book a room with a private deck, and kick back in Adirondack chairs while watching sails billow on the water below. Boothbay Harbor, ME; sprucepointinn.com $$$ Wentworth by the Sea Overlooking Little Harbor and the park-like New Castle

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Island, the Wentworth is New Hampshire’s only grand hotel where guests can arrive by sea, at its 150-slip marina. New Castle, NH; marriott.com $$$ Cliff House Maine To be sure, the 9,000-squarefoot luxury spa, multiple pools, and two restaurants give this hotel distinction, but it’s the location—dramatically perched atop a cliff—that will truly take your breath away. Cape Neddick, ME; cliffhousemaine.com $$$$ The Wauwinet Nestled between two beaches on Nantucket’s northeast side, this elite retreat swims in ocean views from every angle, while its famous restaurant, Topper’s, serves up AAA Five Diamond cuisine. Nantucket, MA; wauwinet.com $$$$ Chatham Bars Inn Enticements at this posh getaway include a quartermile beach with private cabanas, a spa with pool and hot tub, and four restaurants whose menus feature produce from the resort’s own eightacre farm. Chatham, MA; chathambarsinn.com $$$$ Ocean House A meticulous re-creation of a Victorian-era icon, Ocean House boasts architectural splendor, Atlantic views, and a level of service that should be experienced by everyone who appreciates superlatives. Westerly, RI; oceanhouseri.com

FROM TOP : Saybrook Point Resort & Marina; 250 Main Hotel; The Wauwinet; Breakwater Hotel

Price categories are based on a survey of lowest average per-night cost, including taxes and fees, available for a Wed.-Sun. stay during a three-week window in July and August 2022. $ = Under $400; $$ = $400 to $700; $$$ = $700 to $1,000; $$$$ = Over $1,000

3/22/22 12:00 PM

Summer Travel Special

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3/11/22 11:33 AM

TWO-WHEELING BY THE

sea

An ode to the best coastal bike ride in New England.

On a warm November day in 1975, more than 100 cyclists turned out in Falmouth, Massachusetts, for the reopening of a familiar route: On a former Wampanoag walking path and soon-to-be-retired rail line to Woods Hole, the Shining Sea Bikeway made its debut after nearly a decade of planning. There were speeches, a fife-and-drum band played “Bicycle Built for Two,” and then crowds of bikers took to the path for much of the afternoon. It’s been a cause for celebration ever since. Today, the seaside route extends into North Falmouth and offers an almostperfect encapsulation of Cape scenery in one simple, easy-to-cruise 10.7-mile experience. The highlights? Where to start? There are harbor views and cedar swamps, salt marshes and coastal ponds, wooded stretches and quiet neighborhoods. There are forests to sidetrack you. And a cranberry bog. Take a seat on a bench. Bring a picnic. Bring your swimming gear. Bring a camera. Just don’t bring a schedule, because this is a slow-as-you-want-to-go version of the Cape that is impossible to appreciate from a car’s passenger seat. To learn more, go to falmouthma.gov and search for “Shining Sea.” Photo by Cate Brown | 73

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3/11/22 11:33 AM

beach LIVING 101

Summer Travel Special

But Wait, There’s More! Our 2022 Best of New England Guide, with 140+ editors’ picks for where to go and what to do this summer, begins on p. 98.

Yankee’s selective guide to a day on the sand.

PRO TIPS:

Advice from Greg Grady, founder of the Sand Sculpting Competition at New Hampshire’s Hampton Beach, on how to become a master builder.

✹ The Right Stuff: Head to the water’s edge, pick up a handful of sand, and form a ball. “If you can hold it sideways between your thumb and middle finger and it stays compacted,” Grady says, “you can sculpt that sand.” ✹ Patty-Cake, PattyCake: Grady is a big

HOW TO

KEEP SEAGULLS FROM EATING YOUR LUNCH

he perfect beach day: sea, blue sky, fully loaded picnic basket. Or perhaps you’ve carried a lobster roll from fish shack to outdoor table, ready to enjoy. Then, a flash of wings, a snapping beak, and you’re staring at the empty plate. You just bought a seagull lunch. Anyone who has spent time by the ocean has a tale of the meal that got away. You laugh, you fume, you wonder, What can I do? Experts offer these tips: 74 |

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proponent of building via pancake method. You need a “mud bucket,” a container filled two-thirds with sand and mixed with water for a batter-like consistency. Fill, dump, shape, then repeat. “Pat [the pancakes] down so they’re nice and flat,” Grady advises.

✹ Form & Function: For a simple tower, Grady recommends a fivegallon bucket with the bottom removed. Turn it upside down, fill it with sand and water, and pound it firm. To release the bucket, tap the sides gently and lift. For a tapered construction, continue building with

smaller and smaller containers. ✹ Get Sticky: “What really hurts a sculpture are wind and blowing sand,” Grady says. To keep your creations well hydrated, spritz them with a spray bottle—which doubles as a handy cooler for you, too.

Because gulls often dive-bomb from behind, eat with your back to a wall, eyes skyward. ● Never toss a bit of food to one gull. That just signals “Come and get it” to dozens more. ● Carry a kiddie water gun to surprise uninvited guests with a quick spray that says, “Back off!” ● To protect from air raids, eat beneath a beach umbrella. ● Look seagulls in the eye. Researchers have found that the cheeky birds back away when stared at. ● If all else fails, you can try what one New Jersey beach town did: bring in trained birds of prey to circle overhead and scare them off. ●

I L LUS T R AT I O N S BY J O H N S . DY K E S

BUILDING SAND CASTLES

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HOW TO

CLAMMING FOR BEGINNERS

ne of the most satisfying ways to enjoy the sea is to head out at low tide, clam rake in hand, ready to gather a fresh ocean bounty. Here are basics for a safe, fun, and legal outing. 1. Check with the local town hall to find out when clamming is allowed and how to buy a recreational shellfish license. Ask about size regulations, which may vary from 1- to 2-inch minimums to insure sustainability. 2. Low tide is optimal for clamming, though an hour or two on either side will still offer a good chance at filling your bucket. 3. You’ll want a clam rake, a wire clam basket, and a clam gauge—all available online or at baitand-tackle shops. Rubber boots and gloves will protect feet and hands from sharp shells. 4. Keep clams cool and alive before cooking, on ice or in the fridge. Enjoy fresh!

PRO TIPS:

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FLYING A KITE Beaches may be ideal kite-flying territory, but to really hit the heights, your choice of kite is crucial. Robert Foster, owner of Dr. Gravity’s Kite Shop in Harwich Port, Massachusetts, recommends a parafoilstyle kite, which he describes as “the most versatile, with no moving parts other than the line, and easy to fly in low or high wind.”

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Foster also advises knowing which way the wind is blowing. In summer, prevailing winds are from the south, so “flying on Cape Cod’s north shore is great—your kite will fly high over land,” he says. “But on the south shore, depending on the tide, your kite will be over water.” (Which means that if swimming wasn’t on your agenda, it might well be now. )

HANDLE 3 BEACH HAZARDS SUNBURNS Too much sun exposure will not only have you feeling the burn but also increase your risk for skin cancer. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a sun protection factor of at least 30 (SPF 30 filters out 97 percent of UV rays; SPF 50, 98 percent). Sunscreens are never truly sweator waterproof, so for best protection, reapply every two hours. GREENHEAD FLIES While we don’t begrudge greenhead flies their love of the beach, we do object to being their favorite snack. They ignore most repellents (Avon Skin-So-Soft annoys them, at least) but can’t bite through clothing, so bring extra layers for covering up. Some beaches post seasonal greenhead warnings—heed them. RIP CURRENTS Powerful and unpredictable swaths of water that surge away from land, rip currents—which are responsible for an estimated 80 percent of lifeguard rescues— can sweep away even the best swimmers. If caught in a rip current, don’t try to swim directly to shore; that’s the fastest route to exhaustion. Instead, swim parallel to shore to escape the stream.

3 BEACHY APPS TO TAP ✹ Sharktivity: Want to keep tabs on certain seasonal visitors to New England—from a distance? This app from the Atlantic White Shark Conservancy lets you track shark movements off Cape Cod and beyond, stay up to date on beach alerts, and even take on the role of citizen scientist by logging your own sightings. Free; iOS and Android. ✹ Windfinder: Begun more than 20 years ago as a simple SMS-based forecast service, Windfinder today is a sleek, infopacked app powered by a global network

of 21,000 weather stations. Perfect for sailors, surfers, kite enthusiasts, or sun worshippers wondering if their beach umbrella will be blown away. Free, paid pro version available; iOS and Android. ✹ UVIMate: Bask secure knowing that this “personal sun safety coach” has you covered with UV forecasts, personalized SPF recommendations, and sunscreen application reminders. Works for smart watches, too. Free, paid upgrades available; iOS and Android.

DRESSING FOR SUCCESS Looking to take more than a quick dip in the Atlantic? As any New England surfer will tell you, a bit of neoprene can go a long way. HAMMONASSET BEACH (CT)

Average water temperature in August: 73°F Wetsuit thickness: 0.5mm–2/1mm Wetsuit type: Neoprene top MISQUAMICUT BEACH (RI)

Average water temperature in August: 70°F Wetsuit thickness: 2mm–3/2mm Wetsuit type: Shorty or springsuit COAST GUARD BEACH (MA)

Average water temperature in August: 66°F Wetsuit thickness: 2mm–3/2mm Wetsuit type: Shorty or springsuit OLD ORCHARD BEACH (ME)

Average water temperature in August: 64°F Wetsuit thickness: 2mm–3/2mm Wetsuit type: Full | 75

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OCEAN STATE ODYSSEY Acclaimed Rhode Island photographer Richard Schultz focuses his lens on his home turf (and surf).

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Unable to get up-close onstage access at the legendary Newport Folk Festival, Schultz found his perfect shot just offshore from Fort Adams State Park, as boaters edged close to enjoy the music. “One of the best things about editorial photography,” Schultz says, “is when you run into a brick wall, you can find a way to go around it.”

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rom his boyhood in Marblehead, Massachusetts, Richard Schultz knew two things: He would be a photographer, and he would live by the ocean. As a teenager, he began learning the intricacies of his chosen craft when he joined his cousin, famed Life photographer Bill Eppridge, on assignments around the country; after college, he apprenticed with the noted documentary photographer and Oscar-winning filmmaker Louie Psihoyos. Having made his name as a photojournalist for National Geographic and other magazines, including some memorable photo features for Yankee, Schultz is now considered one of the leading commercial advertising photographers in the country. Along with his wife and their two kids, he moved 15 years ago from Boston to a small town on Rhode Island’s Narragansett Bay. “I worked all the time— I’ve always been away,” says Schultz, who’s been on assignment on every continent except Antarctica, compiling a client list that reads like a who’s who of worldwide brands. “I had never really gotten to know my new hometown. Once in a while we’d go to Providence or Newport for dinner, but where I knew best was Warwick—that’s where the airport is—I’d never really seen Rhode Island except for the highway on the drive down for shoots and meetings in New York.”

But last summer, as the pandemic continued to make international travel dicey, Yankee asked Schultz if he would take his camera around the 400 miles of Rhode Island coastline. His reaction? “Perfect—I finally have an excuse to explore this quirky state where I live.” Giving himself the challenge of “having the water somewhere in the frame” of every photo he took, Schultz sailed the bay on his 34-foot offshore cruiser, Bella, walked pathways and beaches, and once in Narragansett stumbled upon town lifeguards posing for a perfect group portrait. He crashed a seaside wedding or two, and found moments at resorts as well as on quiet coastal roads. He faced a daunting season full of rains, but in the end, when he looked through his Rhode Island summer images he not only discovered a state he had not known but also realized “how much I missed just walking around and shooting pictures, just me and a camera, not surrounded by 50 crew and agency and clients. Just shooting what I found, like when I first picked up a camera.” —Mel Allen To see more images from Richard Schultz’s Rhode Island summer, go to newengland.com/richard_schultz. To see more of his body of work, go to rschultz.com.

“Sailing takes me away,” says Schultz, who caught this image while heading to Block Island on his Swedish-made cruiser, Bella.

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Seeing these teens perched on the sea wall in Narragansett while engrossed in their phones was “one of those times where you drive by, do a double take, then jam on the brakes to go back and take a picture,” Schultz says. “I photographed them for about 15 minutes, and they were absorbed doing Instagram and TikTok. And it was like I was not there.”

In Newport, the alignment of a spectator’s summer hat, a sailboat, and Castle Hill Lighthouse caught Schultz’s eye during the Safe Harbor Race Weekend on Narragansett Bay. Considered a world sailing capital, Newport famously hosted the America’s Cup for more than 50 years, and today its summer calendar is filled with regattas that draw sailors from far and wide. 80 |

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This is the first photo Schultz took on his coastal odyssey. To capture Bristol’s famous Fourth of July parade, the oldest in the country, he ended up walking the entire route of just under two miles “because I had given myself the challenge of showing water in every photo—and there were only two places.” The Del’s Lemonade truck completes the classic picture of Rhode Island summer.

As twilight descends on North Kingstown Town Beach, members of the Ocean State Pops Orchestra are joined by the Narragansett Bay Symphony Community Orchestra for a Victory Day concert. A state holiday that falls on the second Monday in August, Victory Day is an only-in-Rhode-Island summer tradition, as it commemorates Japan’s surrender to Allied forces in 1945.

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Oysters have been booming in Rhode Island, growing from a handful of farms in the 1990s to more than 80 today. Among those plying the waters is Mark Goerner, who was a lobsterman for over two decades until that fishery all but ended in Rhode Island. Schultz caught up with Goerner (in blue hat) aboard his boat, the Newshell, south of the Jamestown Verrazzano Bridge.

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above: Among the end-of-summer highlights at Ocean House, a grand hotel set on the bluffs above Watch Hill, is the annual Special Olympics croquet tournament. Last September, 150 Special Olympic athletes and their partners competed on Ocean House’s 105-by-84-foot championship lawn, overseen by the hotel’s own croquet professional. top right: Keisha Marcellus and her friend Malik Gibson were just at the start of what would turn out to be an all-day date—“literally from 7 in the morning until 12 at night!” she says—when their relaxed happiness caught Schultz’s eye at Misquamicut State Beach in Westerly. middle right: The grandson of revered Rhode Island boat designer Nathanael Herreshoff, Halsey Herreshoff is a naval architect in his own right as well as the cofounder of the America’s Cup Hall of Fame at the Herreshoff Marine Museum in Bristol. “It was amazing to spend the afternoon out on the water on one of his latest designs,” Schultz says. “He’s the sharpest, most agile 89-year-old I’ve ever met, by far.” bottom right: More than half a mile of inviting beachfront makes Misquamicut State Beach a popular spot with both locals and visitors, such as Ashwag Alhabodal, an international Ph.D. student at UConn, out for a barefoot stroll on the sand.

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“I was at Sachuest Beach in Middletown,” Schultz says, “and I saw all these lifeguards running, part of their daily training. So I went running after them, shooting photos. They said they were about to do a group portrait, and I should join them.” He adds, “The magic happens when you are out there and paying attention.”

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Coming out of the water near the Ruggles surf break in Newport, local surfer John Cranshaw was already grinning when Schultz encountered him. “Ruggles is one of those breaks that has the potential to line up at times and be world-class, and this was one of those days,” says Cranshaw, who surfs here frequently. “The energy for those of us in the lineup that afternoon was positively electric.”

Some of the quieter stretches of the Rhode Island shoreline can be found on the Farm Coast, a region in the southeastern corner of the state known for its mix of agricultural beauty and ocean scenery. On a private beach in Little Compton, Schultz came upon a woman and her Jack Russell terrier among the sea-swept boulders, enjoying the solitude in a moment he did not wish to disturb. 88 |

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At Historic New England’s Watson Farm, a 265-acre working farm and museum in Jamestown, Schultz found not only “images that people will not expect of the coastline” but also a striking backstory: Farm manager Max Sherman (shown with farm assistant Maryelizabeth Perreira) traces his family roots back to Rhode Island farmers in the 1600s, one of whom actually built the 1796 house at Watson Farm.

Perched on rocks along Ocean Avenue in Narragansett, fisherman John Lee casts in the pounding surf. A pilot boat captain who works on Long Island Sound, Lee is also a writer and photographer who showcases his love of Rhode Island waters and its fish on his website, The Dented Bucket.

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At the Wannamoisett Country Club in Rumford, Rhode Island, Connor Howe of Georgia Tech ( RIGHT) and Gordon Sargent of Vanderbilt University ( CENTER ) get into the swing of things at the 2021 Northeast Amateur Invitational Golf Tournament.

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EVERYBODY STARTS SOMEWHERE

DREAMS OF GOLF GLORY ON A “LITTLE MASTERPIECE” OF A RHODE ISLAND COURSE. BY L E I GH M O N T V I L L E P H O T O S BY A L E X GAG N E | 91

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he final pa ir ing in the 59th edition of the Northeast Amateur Invitational Golf Tournament featured two young men from California. Dylan Menante, age 20, the smaller of the two at 5 feet 9, was from Carlsbad. Noah Norton, 22, an even 6 feet, 185 pounds, was from Chico. They stood on the first tee at the Wannamoisett Country Club at 11:47 a.m. on Saturday, June 26, 2021, a warm and pleasant day; were introduced to a small crowd by 82-year-old Joe Pieranunzi; stepped forward, one after another, and bombed a pair of 300-yard-plus drives straight down the middle, high and long, perfect, easy as if they were combing their hair, tying their shoes, turning their car radios to a favorite station. And away they went. Hit the white ball. Walk down the perfect grass. Hit the white ball again. Walk. Three thousand miles from home, the other side of the country, here in this small piece of the smallest of the 50 states, Rumford, Rhode Island, right next to Providence, not so far from Newport, this was where the dream existed on this particular weekend. Fame, fortune, endorsement deals, maybe a green jacket or two could be seen in the far-off distance— a golf vision, a golf hope, a possible reality. Hit the white ball. Walk. This was a dress rehearsal for the future. “I gave him his first golf club when he was a year old,” said 59-year-old Dean Menante, Dylan’s father and caddy for the day. “One of those oversized plastic clubs with the oversized ball. Hah. That was the start.” “My father and grandfather took me out to Sunset Hills Golf Course in Chico when I was 5 years old,” Noah said. “There were only two par-three holes. That’s where I started. I fell in love with the game. When I was 14, I won the city championship in Chico. That was a great confidence boost. It told me I could play this game at another level.” This was a look at that other level. Tiger Woods once walked down the fairways of this tight little masterpiece of a golf course, 6,960 yards of adventure, par 69, stuffed into 89 acres at Wannamoisett in 1914 by celebrated designer and architect Donald Ross. Dustin Johnson walked here. Jordan Spieth. Patrick Reed. Justin Thomas. Luke Donald. Justin Rose. Brooks Koepka. Bryson 92 |

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The Northeast Amateur became a place to watch the next—no, the original— Tiger Woods, Freddie Couples, or Dustin Johnson before they became what they became.

Fresh off being named Pac-12 men’s player of the year, Brad Reeves of the University of Arizona ( LEFT) shows his form on the driving range before heading out on the course at Wannamoisett.

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FROM FAR RIGHT : 2021 champion Dylan Menante with top finishers Jerry Ji, Joe Weiler, Connor Howe, Kelly Chin, and Davis Chatfield—a group of young athletes hailing from places as diverse as Massachusetts, California, and the Netherlands.

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with us. Dustin Johnson stayed with the Rogers. Jordan Spieth stayed with Ben Tuthill… That’s pretty good. Eight out of 10.” Hit the white ball. Walk. “I have my instructions,” father/caddy Dean Menante said. “I just keep my mouth closed. Unless he asks me something.” This was important.

the pictures on the wall of the well-appointed

rec room at Wannamoisett tell the history of the tournament. The 58 past champions are captured in stock portraits, everybody wearing a blazer and necktie, each young and earnest face staring straight into whatever might come next. This could be a presentation on any country club wall in the world, past winners of the annual four-ball or B-flight net title, but even a casual follower of golf history can pick out the difference here. “See where it all changes?” asks Kevin McNamara, a Providence sportswriter. “Ben Crenshaw” is the correct answer. “1973.” The pictures from the first 11 years—the tournament started in 1962 as a quiet Chamber of Commerce move to add a golf event to the Rhode Island sports calendar—show a line of competent, but provincial, amateur champions. Dick Siderowf, Ronnie Quinn, Jerry Courville… New

PCN PHOTOGR APHY/AL A MY S TOCK PHOTO ( WOODS); ED L ACE Y/P OPPERFOTO V I A GE T T Y IM AGES (CRENSH AW )

DeChambeau. Say any famous male golfer’s name. Probably walked. “We’re ranked as the fourth most important amateur tournament in the world by the PGA,” tournament chairman Ben Tuthill said. “That’s from a field of over 700 tournaments. We’ve been called ‘the Amateur Masters.’ I don’t know if it’s true, but I like that.” Dylan, a junior at Pepperdine University, part of the team that captured the NCAA Division 1 championship trophy 24 days earlier in Scottsdale, Arizona, was the leader by a stroke, seven under par, to start the final round of this four-day tournament. Noah, who had graduated from Georgia Tech a month earlier and planned to turn professional at the end of the summer, was a stroke behind. Stretched across the course were 90 other top-ranked amateurs, mostly from similar circumstances, young and hopeful and very good at their sport. They came from everywhere in the country, drawn to different events during the summer, opportunities to see how they would do. This was the one New England stop, the bargain of bargains for spectators with free admission, easy parking. Every player in the field was a lottery ticket possibly to be cashed. Every player was good. “We were going over the names for the Ryder Cup,” said Chris Holzwarth, a Wannamoisett member. “Eight of the 10 players played here. Collin Morikawa stayed

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Tiger different sites to recruit top amateur talent for the England’s best. Most of them are older, some middle-aged. Good golfers all, but with local, Northeast field, mostly without success. Crenshaw Woods regional boundaries to their notoriety. became his No. 1 target in 1973. The coach at the played in The picture of Crenshaw stops all that. University of Texas wouldn’t even allow Kosten He is the 1973 champion, blond and the chance offer an invitation, so Kosten went 1993, staying bright-eyed, 21 years old, longish hair to a college tournament in North Carolina, with his father, f lopping over his forehead and down introduced himself to Crenshaw on the his neck. He is from Austin, Texas, practice tee, and made his pitch. No Earl, in the upstairs where he already has reached a level was involved, couldn’t be, but guest room of member money of fame as a three-time winner of the the promise of hospitality was piled NCA A championship at the Uni- George Baker. “Earl told as high as possible. versity of Texas. Three-time winner? me his son was going Why come to Wannamoisett? A Three in a row? Who does that? (No host family awaited. (Nice people. one, as it turns out, though Phil Mick- to be the best golfer You’ll love them.) An Atlantic Ocean elson would win three in his four years at awaited. A challenge awaited. This in the United States,” Arizona State.) He is a certified choice as Baker says. “He said was a different kind of course from Golf ’s Next Big Thing, which he will valithat sitting right date later in the year when he wins his first professional tournament in his first try, the on my couch.” San Antonio Open. He is a star. “Ben Crenshaw changes everything,” McNamara says. Wannamoisett member Bob Kosten, chairman of the tournament in its early years, would take vacation trips to LEFT :

Tiger Woods at the 1993 Honda Classic. Ben Crenshaw in 1974, a year after first winning at Wannamoisett.

PCN PHOTOGR APHY/AL A MY S TOCK PHOTO ( WOODS);

RIGHT :

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those racetracks in Texas and the West; it was clever and tricky, sand traps and slippery greens, old trees and quirks, a different sort of puzzle. Fun was a definite possibility. Do you like baseball? Maybe a Red Sox game in Boston? A look at the mansions in Newport? Do you like Italian food? Real Italian food? There is this place called Federal Hill. Yes? Yes. The result was magic. The kid from Texas stayed with the family of member Harry Carr, loved the experience, loved the tight 18-hole layout, led from wire to wire, finished with a 65 that not only won the tournament but also set the course record. A different level of credibility was established for the Northeast Amateur. Just like that. Crenshaw would go from there to win a couple of Masters, win 19 times on the PGA tour, finish second twice at the British Open, once at the PGA tournament, and third at the U.S. Open on the way to a place in the World Golf Hall of Fame. Wannamoisett would go from there to be a place to visit for a list of celebrated players. “A time in our golfing lives when we didn’t have a care in the world,” Crenshaw later wrote about the Northeast experience. “We were seeing a different part of the United States, but in a setting amongst such friendly, warm people who couldn’t do enough for us—well, those happy thoughts will stay with us for a long, long time.” Future U.S. Open champions Curtis Strange from Wake Forest and Jerry Pate from the University of Alabama entered the field the very next year. Nine of the top 10 finishers were from outside New England. The change happened that fast. The same way the Cape Cod Baseball League became a place to see major leaguers from around the country before they became major leaguers, college standouts playing for the Cotuit Kettleers or the Brewster Whitecaps or the Wareham Gatemen, the Northeast Amateur became a place to watch the next—no, the original—Tiger Woods, Freddie Couples, or Dustin Johnson before they became what they became. Woods played in 1993, staying with his father, Earl, in the upstairs guest room of member George Baker. A case of mononucleosis stopped the 17-year-old phenom’s golf at 27 holes, but he and his father stayed until the end of the tournament. (“Earl told me his son was going to be the best golfer in the United States,” Baker says. “He said that sitting right on my couch.”) Couples played in 1980 and established his playboy image early, spending more time in Newport than on the practice tee. Johnson, tall and athletic, fearsome off the tee, killed his chances in 2006 by pounding a drive at the 17th hole over a fence and onto the street, but came back to win in 2007. Johnson and his father, Scott, stayed with the Rogers family in 2006. There were four kids in the family, all under 14. Older brother Tim became Johnson’s caddy, and youngest brother Ben became “B,” Johnson’s little buddy. (Continued on p. 154) 96 |

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Why come to Wannamoisett? A challenge awaited. This was a different kind of course from those racetracks in Texas and the West; it was clever and tricky, sand traps and slippery greens, old trees and quirks.... Fun was a definite possibility.

Designed by Donald Ross in 1914, Wannamoisett has been described in Golf Digest’s course rankings as having “the reputation of the Sugar Ray Leonard of golf courses, compact but carrying plenty of punch.”

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2022 SUMMER TR AVEL GUIDE

BEST OF NEW ENGLAND

With an eye on what’s new for 2022, Yankee’s editors round up recent debuts and refurbished favorites—alongside some perennial don’t-miss picks—in our top travel regions. The result: your essential guide for where to eat, stay, and play in New England this summer. Happy travels!

Boats, buoys, and blue skies make for a postcard-perfect New England scene in Marshfield, Massachusetts. PHOTO BY RAYMOND FORBES LLC /STOCKSY

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MAINE RHODE ISLAND

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CONNECTICUT

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BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

EDITORS’ PICKS: BOSTON & CAMBRIDGE CONTESSA BOSTON

Perched high above Boston’s Public Garden at the top of the Newbury Hotel, Contessa radiates big-city glamour, with interiors by bold-name designer Ken Fulk and a menu of Northern Italian–inspired dishes like lobster capellini and Bistecca Fiorentina for two, plus buzzy cocktails. The city sparkles beyond the floor-to-ceiling windows at night, but those views also make it the perfect spot for brunch on a sunny (or snowy) day. contessatrattoria.com FORMAGGIO KITCHEN CAMBRIDGE

Cheese has always been among the top draws at this Cambridge institution. But while the Formaggio Kitchen f lagship’s move down the block to a light-filled space almost twice as large last year made more room for the Instagram-worthy cheese counter—stocked 100 |

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with 300 glorious wheels and wedges—it also allowed owners Ihsan and Valerie Gurdal to add a butchery and a seafood department, and to bring in even more gourmet foods from around the globe. Yum. formaggiokitchen.com FRANKLIN PARK ZOO BOSTON

There’s always something new at the zoo. This spring, the expansive outdoor habitat Gorilla Grove was unveiled, adding some 360,000 cubic feet of climbing, swinging, and exploring space for Franklin Park Zoo’s six western lowland gorillas, a critically endangered species. Enclosed walkways traverse Gorilla Grove, allowing visitors to immerse themselves without intruding on the animals’ space. Along with its sister facility, Stone Zoo in Stoneham, Franklin Park Zoo saw attendance swell past one million for the first time last year, buoyed in part by the success of Boston Lights, a recently created nighttime event featuring 60-plus large-scale displays made up of hundreds of colorful lanterns. Watch for

it to return this summer. zoonewengland.org/ franklin-park-zoo HIGH STREET PLACE FOOD HALL BOSTON

Boston is now home to several great food halls (including the Time Out Market and Boston Public Market), but High Street Place stands out for its prime location close to the waterfront, the Greenway, and South Station, plus the high wattage of three separate eateries from celeb chef Tiffani Faison: the champagne bar Bubble Bath, Dive Bar (a raw bar), and Tenderoni’s, serving pizza and grinders. Other noteworthy bites include Mamaleh’s Delicatessen, Gorgeous Gelato, and Mike & Patty’s breakfast sandwiches. highstreetplace.com ISABELLA STEWART GARDNER MUSEUM BOSTON

If you binged the recent Netflix series This Is a Robbery: The World’s Biggest Art Heist, or hung on every word of the Boston Globe/WBUR podcast Last Seen, this is your chance to return

R AY M O N D F O R B E S L LC /S TO C K S Y (C H A R L E S R I V ER , B OS TO N A N D C A M B R I D GE )

MASSACHUSETTS

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R AY M O N D F O R B E S L LC /S TO C K S Y (C H A R L E S R I V ER , B OS TO N A N D C A M B R I D GE )

HERE YOUR JOURNEY LEADS YOU

to North Central Massachusetts

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to the scene of the crime. Pop-culture fascination with its notorious 1990 heist aside, though, the timeless Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum continues to artfully marry the old (the original Venetian mansion with its verdant courtyard and empty frames standing in for the stolen paintings) and the new (the glass-clad Renzo Piano–designed addition, which hosts concerts and special exhibits). gardnermuseum.org LA ROYAL CAMBRIDGE

Maria Rondeau was an architect and JuanMa Calderón a filmmaker when they began hosting a series of dinners inspired by the cuisine of Calderón’s native Peru. That series became one restaurant, Celeste, in Somerville, which was joined by a summer pop-up in Vermont. Their newest venture, La Royal, dives deep into Peru’s regional specialties, such as arroz con pato (cilantro rice with duck), assorted ceviches, and chupe de langostinos (shrimp chowder). Here you find evidence of the many cultures (indigenous, Spanish, Arab, Japanese, African, and Chinese) that shaped Peruvian cooking, while soaking in a neighborly vibe. Don’t sleep on the cocktail list, which is rich in piscos, bitters, and herbal elixirs mixed with citrus and tropical fruits. laroyalcambridge.com

plimoth.org

THE LEXINGTON/GEPETTO/CAFÉ BEATRICE

MIT MUSEUM

CAMBRIDGE

Will Gilson was once a wunderkind teen chef cooking in Boston’s top kitchens. Now he has four restaurants of his own, including a trio of concepts under one roof in Cambridge Crossing. Cafe Beatrice is the all-day café with a killer cinnamon roll and a great roast beef sammy; Gepetto has some of the best pastas (and meatballs) in the city; and The Lexington is a rooftop aerie serving a menu of modern American classics such as steak frites and a ridiculously good onion dip paired with potato waffles. thelexingtoncx.com

Leave it to those MIT brainiacs to blow our minds. After nearly 50 years in a cramped, aging industrial building on Mass. Ave., the college’s museum of all things tech is moving to spanking-new digs in Kendall Square with more than 58,000 square feet of space. Though you’ll have to wait for the grand reopening this fall to ogle the museum’s robots, lasers, Polaroid cameras, world’s biggest holography collection, and other geewhiz holdings, the terrif ic gift shop (now triple its former size) is worth a stop this summer, especially if you’re already strolling the new Greater Boston Innovation Trail. mitmuseum.mit.edu

MIDA BOSTON

A chef can chip away at mastery for years before food writers finally come calling with their “best new chefs” lists. Such was the case with Douglass Williams, Boston’s pasta prodigy. By the time the crowds showed up, he had long mastered his signature classic carbonara, gnocchi caccio e pepe, and buccatini all amatriciana. Luckily for us, his success has spawned two new spots: a suburban outpost of Mida, in Newton; and Apizza, serving both New Haven–style and Roman-style pizzas at Hub Hall near TD Garden. midarestaurant.com

137 Warren Avenue, Plymouth, MA 02360

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OLD NORTH CHURCH BOSTON

On the eve of its 300th anniversary in 2023, the church famed for hanging the “one if by land, two if by sea” lanterns that sparked Paul Revere’s midnight ride is still bringing history to light. In addition to learning about the architecture and Revolutionary War history of the city’s oldest church, visitors this summer will be offered a clearer picture of those who first worshipped here, from free and enslaved Black congregants to those who

(508) 746-1622

@PlimothPatuxet

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SUMMER FUN IN BOSTON

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CELEBRATE WITH FESTIVALS & SPECIAL EVENTS Each summer Boston is host to many special events and outdoor festivals including Pride Month, Juneteenth, Music Festivals, Red Sox Games, Harborfest and July 4th, Puerto Rican Festival, North End Feasts, Dine Out Boston and more.

GET OUTSIDE & ON THE WATER Affectionately known as “America’s Walking City,” Boston boasts an array of urban green spaces for recreational fun, from the Emerald Necklace to the Kennedy Greenway and the Charles River Esplanade. Explore Boston’s beautiful waterways on your own by kayak or paddleboard, or even go camping on the Boston Harbor Islands.

VISIT OUR MUSEUMS Boston museums give you the opportunity to spend time with the Classics, be inspired by contemporary artists or wander a Venetian palace filled with treasures. You can view an assortment of aquatic animals, the world-famous Glass Flowers and the only presidential library in New England.

EXPLORE OUR NEIGHBORHOODS From Nubian Square to Fields Corner, the South End or the Seaport District, Boston is home to two dozen vibrant neighborhoods, where the heartbeat of the city is truly discovered. Boston’s neighborhoods offer unique and immersive cultural experiences, where amazing public art, eclectic retail and fabulous culinary options await you.

TAKE A TOUR

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See the city on foot, bike, trolley, boat or amphibious Duck Tours. No matter what your interest, whether history, heritage, food, whales, equality, movies or behind-the-scenes at iconic landmarks such as Fenway Park - there’s a tour for the taking.

WWW.BOSTONUSA.COM/SUMMER

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benefited from cacao smuggling and the slave trade. Also new at this Freedom Trail favorite: daily tours of the church crypt, and a retail shop dedicated to New England artisans and small businesses. oldnorth.com

and the Children’s Museum. High-rises are broken up by charming parks and the Harborwalk, while seasonal markets and pop-up shops keep things fresh. bostonseaport.xyz

THE REVOLUTION HOTEL

BOSTON

This 65-room hotel gives us exactly the kind of the classic, centralized Beacon Hill landing spot we’ve always wanted. Set in a brick townhouse with views of the Charles River, the Whitney blends sophisticated touches (soaking tubs, first-class linens, and a remarkably good in-room wine selection) with a makeyourself-at-home feel. The Whitney Wags program delights dogs with personalized beds and treats, while the hotel’s Italian-inspired eatery, Peregrine, a sibling of the acclaimed Somerville restaurant Juliet, will certainly please their masters. whitneyhotelboston.com

Opened on Berkeley Street in 2019, the Revolution Hotel offers rooms that are comfy, convenient, connected, and patterned after the space-efficient studios and lofts to which young urbanites have become accustomed. The in-house restaurant, Cósmica, specializes in Cal-Mex fare like tequila and tacos, and the coffee shop serves up freshly ground beans from Vermont’s Abracadabra Coffee. provenancehotels.com/the-revolution-hotel SEAPORT DISTRICT

THE WHITNEY HOTEL

BOSTON

For many years, the Seaport was a working waterfront, mostly industrial and dotted with parking lots. Now, it’s Boston’s most vibrant destination, packed with shops (For Now, Porter Square Books, b8ta), restaurants (Row 34, Sportello, Trillium), and hotels (Envoy, Yotel, Boston Harbor Hotel), as well as being home to the Institute of Contemporary Art

EDITORS’ PICKS: CAPE & ISLANDS ATRIA

owner Christian Thornton is equally deft with refined presentations of regional seafood as with rib-sticking pizzas and awardwinning burgers. His knack for comfort food fueled Atria’s recent pivot to takeaway to keep the locals well fed in the slow season and, like the rest of us, looking forward to nabbing a seat this summer at a fine-dining spot that remains, after more than two decades, warmly welcoming inside and out. atriamv.com CHATHAM INN CHATHAM

Just when you thought an overnight on the Lower Cape couldn’t get much swankier, the Chatham Inn recently earned the peninsula’s only Relais & Châteaux designation. You’d be forgiven for lingering on this pretty property, considering that the 18 renovated rooms all have spa-like bathrooms and luxe linens, and that the on-site restaurant, Cuvée, is among the most sought-after reservations on the Cape. When you’re ready to venture out, do it in style by booking the hotel’s complimentary Volvo XC90. chathaminn.com

EDGARTOWN

LEMON PRESS

White-linen elegance meets pub-grub gusto at Atria, the Vineyard standby where chef-

NANTUCKET

Downtown Nantucket has long been light on

Experience an American Icon

Celebrate with us this summer

DISCOVER and climb the famed

secret staircase.

Relax in the period seaside gardens.

Be inspired as visitors, authors, and artists have been for centuries. 115 Derby Street Salem, M A 01970 978-74 4-0991 7gables.org

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“Best Kid-Friendly Farm Stand” —Yankee Magazine

Embark on an unforgettable tour of The House of the Seven Gables.

Russell Orchards Farm & Winery

5 YEARS

The Amazing World of Dr. Seuss

Museum

20 YEARS

Dr. Seuss Sculpture Garden

SpringfieldMuseums.org •

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breakfast places, especially after Fog Island Café headed inland in 2019. Thankfully, Lemon Press is now answering the call of the island’s early risers—and injecting a little bit of California cool into cobblestoned Main Street—with avocado toast, breakfast salads, and rosewater waff les, and drinks like the Grey Lady, crafted with lavender-infused espresso. lemonpressnantucket.com LIZ’S CAFE, ANYBODY’S BAR PROVINCETOWN

This West End haunt has the all-day-café thing down. By day, proprietor Liz Lovati— of the beloved Provincetown market Angel Foods—and her crew dish up Benedicts and turkey clubs, plus breakfast combos that hearken back to the location’s previous tenant, the Tip for Tops’n diner. By night, dinner is served, and drinks like the Very Sexy Martini and the Spicy Sailor start f lowing at the sleek bar, constructed from an actual dory. (About that chic interior? It comes courtesy of P-town resident and designer-to-the-stars Ken Fulk.) lizscafeptown.com

f ish, then bone up on the nonprof it’s pioneering satellite-tagging work and other groundbreaking research. Want to make your own in-person observations? Book one of the center’s private shark-spotting cruises. atlanticwhiteshark.org TRURO VINEYARDS TRURO

Need a beach break? Dig your toes out of the sand and get your nose into a glass of this chill winery’s rosé—or a f ive-year Otis Rye Whiskey, the f irst in a new line of whiskeys from Truro Vineyards’ distillery, South Hollow Spirits. Indeed, with its lobster roll–slinging Crush Pad food truck (run by nearby Blackf ish restaurant), live music, and festive alfresco bar scene, this is the place to be on summer afternoons. trurovineyardsofcapecod.com

NORTH ADAMS

Tucked into a recently converted former cotton mill, this restaurant and bakery serves as North Adams’s community living room, with morning pastries, Bennies, and breakfast bowls; lunchtime sandwiches and salads; and weekend dinners with an emphasis on global flavors and local produce. There’s lots of patio space, and the neighboring Berkshire Cider Project supplies plenty of bubbly wonders. thebreakroomgw.com

HYANNIS

Somehow “ bed-and-break fast ” doesn’t seem to do justice to the guest experience at this grown-up Cape Cod boutique inn. Minutes from Keyes Memorial Beach and a stone’s throw from the Kennedy Compound, the 19th-century sea captain’s house has been fully renovated, with the wow factor kicking in as soon as you enter its curated gallery space. And your innkeepers, chef Adrian D’Ambrosi and his wife, Xenia, get every day off to a gourmet start with a multicourse breakfast that’ll have you pulling your camera out before taking a bite. seastreetinn.com SHARK CENTER PROVINCETOWN

Set aside more time than you think you’ll need to explore the Atlantic White Shark Conser vancy’s new museum, its second on Cape Cod—there’s a lot to take in here. Wade into the deep with detailed interactive exhibits and videos on these mysterious

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Most Visited Museum

Because...

History Matters

THE BREAK ROOM

AQUINNAH

SEA STREET INN

Salem’s

EDITORS’ PICKS: BERKSHIRES

OUTERMOST INN

Hugh Taylor (of the Vineyard’s famous Taylor clan) and his wife, Jeanne, have known each other since their island childhoods, and together they have run this idyllic spot that looks out to countryside and ocean for nearly 30 years. It’s one of those dining destinations where people come back year after year—for the beautiful setting, the soothing intimacy, and of course the menu, which showcases impeccably prepared local produce and seafood. The prix fixe dinners are worth every penny. outermostinn.com

Start with...

CRUST PIZZA PITTSFIELD

Pittsfield’s food scene is on the rise, as typif ied at this Neapolitan-style pizza shop, where the dough is cold-fermented for four days, and toppings range from classic mozz to gorgonzola, and from pepperoni to locally made chili crisp. The long fermentation produces a gently tangy, beautifully puffed crust, and extra cooking time means that it’s never soggy in the middle. Bonus: This crew is serious about their gluten-free and vegan options. crustpz.com MASSACHUSETTS MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART NORTH ADAMS

Nearly a quarter century since opening its doors, one of the country’s f inest museums continues to up its game, with cuttingedge but accessible art showcased across its 250,000 square feet of gallery and exhibition areas. Three ambitious shows launch at Mass MoCA this year, including Amy Hauft’s space-bending exhibition that places viewers somewhere between Earth and the moon. Luckily, you can ground yourself with tasty grub at craft brewery Bright Ideas and

Open Year Round 19 1/2 Washington Square North Salem, Massachusetts 01970 Take the

or the Salem Ferry.

978.744.1692

salemwitchmuseum.com

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Berkshires

#YankeeCandleVillageMA barbecue joint A-OK before closing out

Personalized Candles

Make an instant souvenir of your visit in minutes!

there’s new

fun

your visit and making plans for a return trip. massmoca.org

RODIN IN THE UNITED STATES

NORMAN ROCKWELL MUSEUM STOCKBRIDGE

In addition to displaying the cherished artwork that evinces Norman Rockwell’s deep appreciation for and ability to portray our shared humanity, this Berkshires must-visit also continually mounts fresh exhibitions that analyze and celebrate the art of illustration. This year’s highlight: “Imprinted: Illustrating Race,” on view from June 11 through October 30, which offers a look at more than 100 perceptionshaping artworks and artifacts from the 18th century to today. nrm.org

CONFRONTING THE MODERN

in store

JUNE 18–SEPTEMBER 18

TOURISTS

I-91, Exit 24 · 25 Greenfield Road, South Deerfield, MA 877.636.7707 · yankeecandle.com/village

NORTH ADAMS

WILLIAMSTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS CLARKART.EDU This exhibition is made possible by Denise Littlefield Sobel. Auguste Rodin, The Thinker (detail), original model 1881–82, enlarged 1903. Bronze. Baltimore Museum of Art. Jacob Epstein Collection, 1930.25.1

ER NOWN

ere art, ve. thrive. auty

er.com 7 own.org

The line between indoors and outdoors is blurred at this 48-room eco-escape, built on the foundation of a midcentury motel. Woodland views and outdoor showers come standard. Fresh Berkshires air is circulated into every room hourly. And you’ll spend most of your summertime stay f loating in the heated saltwater pool or acquainting yourself with 30 acres of trails and recreational features. Don’t wrack your brain for ways to make your vacation out of the ordinary—that’s a job for Tourists’s “art and adventure manager.” touristswelcome.com THE WILLIAMS INN WILLIAMSTOWN

It’s not what or where it used to be: Williams College built a modern replacement for its on-campus hotel in 2019 in a central location that’s ideal for visiting parents and museum- and theater-bound tourists, too. Cool, calm hues and energy-saving green features characterize all 64 thoughtfully designed rooms and suites. Common areas and the Barn Kitchen & Bar have more rustic warmth, but on balmy nights, the ahi tuna nachos and local craft beers taste best outdoors, fireside. williamsinn.com

THE WALLFLOWERS MADELEINE PEYROUX HIGH KINGS • CHRIS ISAAK PAT METHENY & more!

Fall Foliage from Stone Hill

great barrington, ma • mahaiwe.org Clark Art Institute

Annual Holiday Walk sleigh rides

DISCOVER WILLIAMSTOWN

A unique village where art, culture, and natural beauty thrive.

williamstownchamber.com 413.458.9077 destinationwilliamstown.org

EDITORS’ PICKS: PIONEER VALLEY & CENTRAL MA

B.T.’S FRIED CHICKEN & BBQ WORCESTER

Among the bright lights of Worcester’s dining scene is this down-home joint from Brian Treitman, who worked under Ming Tsai and Ken Oringer in Boston before opening his namesake B.T.’s Smokehouse in Sturbridge. Here, he’s doing the classic meat-and-sides that first earned raves (don’t miss the pulled pork and brisket) along with fried chicken

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COME AND VISIT SALEM

ART. MEET. SHOP. EAT. ALL WITHIN STEPS.

served regular-style and Nashville-hot. Round it out with coleslaw, “sexy” grits, and buttermilk pie. btschickenandbbq.com DAILY OPERATION EASTHAMPTON

When cravings strike, you’ll dream of these cheeseburgers. Of buttery, griddled buns topped with pick les and hoisin-glazed meatloaf. Of paper trays piled with saucy Sichuan cabbage salad. Of fried broccoli and cheesy potatoes. Even with an ever-evolving menu, this James Beard– nominated restaurant manages to stay dependably delicious and always affordable, thanks to owners David Schrier, Jessica Pollard, and David Clegg’s commitment to accessibility. eatdailyop.com MONTAGUE BOOKMILL MONTAGUE

Plan your visit at salem.org #SALEMMA Salem’s recovery marketing has been funded in part by the City of Salem and the US Economic Development Administration.

EDITH W H A RTON’S HOME

Lenox, MA Book online at EdithWharton.org

Opening for tours on

May 15!

If sinking into a worn leather chair with a 20-year-old book and losing all sense of time sounds appealing, you’ll crush hard on this creaky-f loored bookstore (motto: “Books you don’t need in a place you can’t find”). Not a bibliophile? Be lured by the artists’ co-op or record store. There’s bliss at this 1842 gristmill complex, too, for anyone who eats or drinks: teas, coffees, wine, beer, and local-focused fare in the Lady Killigrew or an all-new culinary experience at Watershed overlooking the Sawmill River’s froth. montaguebookmill.com NAISMITH MEMORIAL BASKETBALL HALL OF FAME SPRINGFIELD

A top-to-bottom $25 million renovation that f inished up last year made this 40,000-square-foot hoops museum even more fan-friendly. Tour the tributes to the more than 400 Hall of Fame inductees, get an up-close look at an original pair of Air Jordans, and f ix your eyes on a genuine Dennis Rodman boa (!). Even better: Take your own game to the next level by studying the basics of the perfect crossover or the ultimate Kareem skyhook. hoophall.com POLAR PARK WORCESTER

While the Boston Red Sox and Fenway Park hold the hearts of New England baseball fans, the new home of the Worcester Red Sox (WooSox) is the newest and shiniest minor league ballpark in the country. Here you will see future major leaguers on the cusp of making it to Boston, while joining up to 9,500 other fans in a park built in the heart of the city’s Canal District, where freight trains rumble by just beyond the outfield walls. The ballpark’s design, with its blue motif and view of the city, was overseen by the same team that refurbished Fenway Park. milb.com/worcester 110 |

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3/22/22 12:05 PM

you’re invited to discover the best of CENTRAL MASSACHUSETTS

at Worcester Tercentennial Weekend

Kickoff

Join the fun in Downtown Worcester & the Canal District

Friday, June 10 Canal District Stroll and Fireworks at Polar Park

Parade and Festival Saturday, June 11

Saturday, June 11

Run or walk!

Art vendors, music, food & more hosted by stART on the Street

Family Outing

and Signature Concert Event Sunday, June 12 To Be Announced

Sunday, June 12 at Worcester Bravehearts

discover more on our app + social media

PLAN YOUR EXPERIENCE

Discover restaurants, trip itineraries & events with our free trip planning app! DOWNLOAD YK0522_BONE_listings_REV.indd 111

Stay in the Know! Scan the QR code for more details

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3/21/22 10:23 AM

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TOWER HILL BOTANIC GARDEN BOYLSTON

A green thumb’s dream come true, this horticultural gem has grown by leaps and bounds with the recent addition of 26 acres and 40,000 new plants, plus more room for parking and improved accessibility. But the crown jewel of its $15 million construction project is a children’s garden dubbed the Ramble, a 1.5-acre woodland Eden featuring a waterfall and an amphitheater. Seasonal sandwiches and grain bowls from Farmer and the Fork Café are a great excuse to take in all the scenery while sitting on the patio overlooking the Wachusett Reservoir. towerhillbg.org YANKEE CANDLE VILLAGE SOUTH DEERFIELD

Stop and smell, taste, and create at the f lagship home of the world’s largest candlemaker, now the lone “Scenter of the Universe” following 2021’s closure of Yankee Candle Village in Williamsburg. Kids love pouring colorful wax beads into jars at this sprawling home fragrance, decor, and gift store, but the newest lures are for grownups. Design a signature scent at the candle bar, then sample the fresh f lavors at Powder Hollow Brewery. yankeecandle.com/south-deerfield-village

EDITORS’ PICKS: NORTH & SOUTH SHORES THE HOTEL SALEM

the first time ever, merging more than 250 historical and contemporary works in a way that encourages visitors to consider what it means to be part of a family, place, community, and nation. pem.org

SALEM

PLIMOTH PATUXET MUSEUMS

After a day spent exploring the North Shore, you’ll need a sophisticated spot to lay your head. Enter the Hotel Salem, which offers 44 midcentury-modern rooms and the Witch City’s only rooftop bar and lounge. And do come hungry: The seasonal lobby restaurant, Counter, is a comfort-food destination and often hosts pop-up events with buzzy local purveyors (think Wild Fox Pierogis, Speakeasy Donuts, and Flip the Bird chicken sandwiches). thehotelsalem.com

PLYMOUTH

PEABODY ESSEX MUSEUM SALEM

A few years back, PEM vaulted into the top 10 largest art museums in North America with a dazzling 40,000-square-foot expansion, whose highlights included an exquisite garden and 13 additional galleries. In its newest gallery, the long-term installation On This Ground: Being and Belonging in America combines PEM’s Native American and American collections for

CLASSIC NEW ENGLAND SEAFOOD WITH A VIEW

Voted Best l Lobster Rol in 2021!

Marking its 75th anniversary this year, Plimoth Patuxet Museums transports visitors back to the 1600s, when the Pilgrims established Plymouth Colony on lands that the Pokanoket Wampanoag and other indigenous peoples had called home for more than 12,000 years. Among the fascinating features to explore are the Patuxet Homesite, the 17th-Century English Village, and, most famously, Mayflower II, a full-scale replica of the original. A bonus for the 2022 season is the special exhibit “We Gather Together: Thanksgiving, Gratitude, and the Making of an American Holiday,” focused on the truths and myths surrounding Plymouth’s 1621 harvest feast. plimoth.org SUNSET CLUB NEWBURY

In transforming an old auto body shop into this laid-back, family-friendly spot, the team behind Somerville’s Trina’s Starlite Lounge and Newburyport’s Paddle Inn has fully embraced the surf-y energy of Plum Island. There are tacos and empanadas on the menu, buzzy-again espresso martinis in the cocktail shakers, and showstopping sunsets over the expansive salt marsh—best viewed from an outdoor table, preferably after a day at the beach. sunsetclubpi.com TALISE GLOUCESTER

Perched above Lobster Cove in Gloucester’s Annisquam neighborhood, Talise is a seasonal seafood–driven gem. With views this good, lesser chefs would simply coast, but Joshua Smith maintains a devotion to handcrafting everything on the menu. Lobster tacos are made with artisan masa flour; sourdough is freshly baked. Smith works particular wonders with local striped bass and bigeye tuna, but there’s also a phenomenal burger for landlubbers. Seating is limited, so book early. taliserestaurant.com THE WINSOR HOUSE DUXBURY

Online ordering and local delivery available! AT THE HISTORIC CHATHAM FISH PIER 45 Barcliff Avenue Ext. (at Shore Road), Chatham, MA

508.945.FISH

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CHATHAMPIERFISHMKT.COM

From the team behind Island Creek Oysters, the Winsor House is a reimagining of a beloved town tavern, where hamachi crudo and piri piri monkfish share the stage with fried clams and a great burger. When it comes to sourcing, this crew knows how to spot a great catch, so don’t miss the raw bar delicacies, including Island Creek’s own buttery, gently minerally oysters with a signature sweet finish. winsorhouse.islandcreekoysters.com

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/22/22 12:06 PM

Begin Your Adventure

at PLYMOUTH

Boston

ROCK

Scituate Lighthouse

Captain John Whale Watch

Plimoth Patuxet Museums

Cranberry Harvests

PLYMOUTH

Newport, RI Destination Plymouth

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Cape Cod visitma.com

See Plymouth

See Plymouth SeePlymouth.com Town of PLYMOUTH

Plymouth County Convention & Visitors Bureau

3/15/22 10:17 AM

BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

EDITORS’ PICKS: SEACOAST BLACK HERITAGE TRAIL OF NEW HAMPSHIRE PORTSMOUTH

Expert guides showcase the state’s rich Black history on 90-minute walking tours that cover an impressive amount of ground. From the early days of slave trade to the civil rights era to the resurrected story of Ona Marie Judge, who escaped George Washington’s household and settled in Portsmouth, these tours shed new light on a history that for too long has gone unrecognized. blackheritagetrailnh.org BOTANICA PORTSMOUTH

Unabashedly French but delightfully chill, Botanica opened in 2019 as an elegant bistro /gin bar in a converted mill space in Portsmouth’s West End. Despite everything the next two years threw at him, chef-owner Brendan Vesey never lost his stride, serving up classic steak frites and hyperlocal seafood 114 |

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like monkfish with oyster mushrooms in saffron beurre blanc. Naturally, the gin cocktails are a must. botanicanh.com ELEPHANTINE BAKERY PORTSMOUTH

Hidden down a winding brick alleyway, this four-year-old café feels like something you’d stumble upon in a European city, not the New Hampshire Seacoast. Petite sidewalk tables draw a laid-back crowd, who savor the cappuccinos and f laky croissants as well as breakfast and lunch dishes inf luenced by Mediterranean and Middle Eastern traditions. With Elephantine, married owners Sherif and Nadine Farag have introduced a deliciously different dining experience to Portsmouth. Don’t dare leave without picking one of the fresh-baked baguettes for later. elephantinebakery.com THE INN DOWNTOWN PORTSMOUTH

Hospitality entrepreneur and native New Englander Doug Palardy specializes in cre-

ating “apart-hotels,” hybrids that meld the independence of apartment living with the style and amenities of chic boutique hotels. But especially given the Inn Downtown’s location, in a historic pocket neighborhood close by the beating heart of Market Square, and its photogenic early-19th-century façade enclosing eight modern rooms and two spacious suites, this 2019 debut is more like a pied-à-terre fantasy—complete with your own downtown parking space. (Beach lovers, take note: Palardy’s retro-inspired Rye Motor Inn, opened last summer 10 minutes north of Hampton Beach, has upped the game on grownup seaside escapes.) inndowntown.com JIMMY’S JAZZ & BLUES CLUB PORTSMOUTH

When the music onstage is smooth, the rich, buttery entrées are too; when the bass slaps and horns wail, expect a zestier menu. A Moulin Rouge–inspired dream made real by sibling restaurateurs Michael and Peter Labrie, this brunch and supper club has hosted

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R AY M O N D F O R B E S L LC / S TO C K S Y (S W I F T R I V E R , W H I T E M O U N TA I N N AT I O N A L F O R E S T )

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TAKE A TRIP THAT TOPS THEM ALL. DISCOVER YOUR NEW

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5,000-STAR ACCOMMODATIONS DISCOVER YOUR NEW

HAMPTON BEACH,NH Rediscover the #1 rated U.S.A. Super Star Beach!

HHHHH 5 star rating!

National Resources Defense Council "Testing the Waters: A Guide to Water Quality at Vacation Beaches" top 100 beaches water quality & safety. Hampton Beach in top 5 beaches & top 10 resorts in USA.

NORTH CONWAY VILLAGE, NH

HOME BASE

for Your Active North Conway Vacation

BOOK NOW 1-833-STAY-ESI

• 80 Free Nightly Concerts • 17 Spectacular Fireworks Wednesday Nights & Holidays • Master Sand Sculpting Competition • Country Fest • Children’s Festival • Talent Competition • Circus Events paid by Hampton Beach • Seafood Festival Village District • Fire Show VISIT hamptonbeach.org for info For FREE Travel Guide or to view the beach on our live Beach Cam, visit www.hamptonbeach.org

Season 57

weathervanenh.org | 603-837-9322

Opens June 8th!

9 great productions: Million Dollar Quartet Jesus Christ Superstar A Chorus Line and more!

LOCATED OFF EXIT 32, ON RT. 112 WEST OF N. WOODSTOCK 1712 LOST RIVER ROAD, NORTH WOODSTOCK NH

June 8 - October 9, 2022 389 Lancaster Road, Whitefield, NH

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NEWENGLAND.COM

3/21/22 2:21 PM

This is where you want to be! OUR

31st YEAR

Voted Voted “Best “Best Pizza in The Lakes Region” for Running! for 21 21 Years Years and and Running!

87 Years of Family FUN!

On the Shores of Lake Winnipesaukee Lakeside Rooms, Colorful Cottages & Suites FREE Dock Slips | On Resort Dining - 2 AMAZING Restaurants

1086 Weirs Blvd.- Laconia, NH | 888.55.NASWA | www.naswa.com

Walk to Weirs Beach!

1086 Weirs Blvd. • Laconia, NH 0324

Very Musical, Very Italian & Very Good! Very Voted Musical, VeryinItalian Very Good! “Best Pizza The Lakes& Region” for 21 Years and Running!

Very Musical, Very Italian & Very Good! 98

9 – 2 01

9–2

9 – 2 01

Your White Mountain Vacation Destination

Giuseppe’s PIZZERIA & RISTORANTE Live Music Giuseppe’s RISTORANTE PIZZERIA

eppe’s PIZZERIA & RISTORANTE eppe’s

Giuseppe’s Giuseppe’s PIZZERIA

Experience it all Endless activities in North Conway

& RISTORANTE

Lunch and Dinner Daily This unique and popular restaurant is one of Live Musical Entertainment Nightly!

the Lakes Region’s most loved since 1989! Award-winning Italian Menu Featuring all Your Favorites!

Top outlet brands, local eateries with great patios, and public art. Just minutes from the White Mountain National Forest in tax-free North Conway.

ServingPIZZERIA Award-Winning Gourmet Pizza, & RISTORANTE Pasta, Seafood, Steak, Chicken, Veal, Lunch and Dinner Daily Delivery (within 5 miles) Gluten-Free, Reservations highly recommended Take-out Vegetarian, Vegan, Soup, Corner of Routes 3 & 25 Entertainment Mill Falls Marketplace, Meredith, NH Live Musical Nightly! PIZZERIA & RISTORANTE Salads, Sandwiches, Desserts, Beer, (603) 279-3313 Award-winning Italian Menu Favorites! Menu, daily specials, menu, hoursFeaturing and info.all at Your giuseppesnh.com Wine and Spirits! Dinner Daily Two Lunch Bars andand an International Wine List! Lunch & Dinner Daily • Reservations Required Live Musical Entertainment Nightly! Join us in THE GROTTO AT GIUSEPPE’S for Karaoke, Thursdays at 10 p.m. Curbside Pick-up •Menu Delivery Service Nightly and DJ and dancing, and Saturdays 10Your p.m.–1 a.m. Award-winning ItalianFridays Featuring all Favorites! 5 International miles 4-8Wine pm)List! Two(within Bars and an Two Bars and an International Wine List!

Join us in THE GROTTO AT GIUSEPPE’S for Karaoke, Thursdays at 10 p.m. and DJ and dancing, Fridays and Saturdays 10 p.m.–1 a.m. •

•

Take-out • Delivery (within 5 miles) • Reservations highly recommended Corner of Routes 3 &AT25GIUSEPPE’S Fallsfor Marketplace, Meredith,at NH Corner of• Mill Routes 3 & Thursdays 25 Join us in THE GROTTO Karaoke, 10 p.m. DJ and dancing, Fridays279-3313 and Saturdays 10 p.m.–1 a.m. MillandFalls Marketplace, Meredith, NH (603)

Menu, daily specials, menu, hours and info. at giuseppesnh.com

Take-out • Delivery (within 5 miles) • Reservations highly recommended (603) 279-3313 Corner of Routes 3 & 25 • Mill Falls Marketplace, Meredith, NH

Menu, daily specials, hours & info at (603) 279-3313 giuseppesnh.com Menu, daily specials, menu, hours and info. at giuseppesnh.com

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BOOK NOW 1-833-STAY-AMV

settlersgreen.com | 119

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COAST THROUGH SUMMER DISCOVER YOUR NEW The Inn at East Hill Farm

Your year ‘round family resort

Family Farm Stays!

InnHill at East Hill Farm The Inn atThe East Farm Troy, N.H.

1-800-242-6495 Your year ‘round family resort Your year ‘round family resort

www.east-hill-farm.com

Family Family FarmFarm Stays!Stays! Troy, N.H.

Troy, N.H.

1-800-242-6495 1-800-242-6495

www.east-hill-farm.com www.east-hill-farm.com Step Back In Time st Sunday, July 1

Poore Family A merican M ountain Homestead Men Reenactment

Historic Farm Poore Farm Museum Learn about the early Trappers and Museum Traders of the area, by the Great North Living History Woods Party. Visitors can see firsthand At the:

what life was like on the frontier and Regular Museum Hours: how the guns& ofSun. the day work. June – Sept. • Sat. 11 am to 3 pm th (or as posted)

Annual

28th Annual Celebration Open Barn and Celebration Celebrating Kenneth’s 127 Birthday Sunday • July 3rd Please j oin u s for ou r

th Birthday Sunday, July137 1, 2012 Celebrating Kenneth’s

The Largest Arcade In The World! 600 Games for All Ages 20 Lane Bowling Center Indoor Mini-Golf D.A. Long Tavern • Restaurant Cash Bingo • Free Party Rooms

A lifestyle, leisure and event resort dedicated to providing a quintessential New England experience…

Open to the public 11 am – 4 pm ��

FREE Birthday Cake & Lemonade will be served

at The Poore Family Homestead Historic Farm Museum

Route 145, Stewartstown, NH Music by: Harold Boydston, playing authentic western Cowboy tunes on guitar and mandolin, Also: Hope Manseau, will be demonstrating: rug weaving on the Poore Family loom, preparing wool and spinning on a traditional spinning wheel. Be ready to get involved, Hope will have you helping in the process and showing you how to make yarn on a drop spindle that you can make at home.

Live Music: On the Front Porch also demonstrations of Weaving, Spinning, Tanning Hides, Pewter Casting & more. Directions: 7 miles north of Colebrook, on NH Rte. 145 Regular Museum Hours, June to September 30 : Audience participation is 1encouraged! Saturday & Sunday 11:am to 3:pm, - - Weekdays 11:am to 1:pm st

Sponsored by: The Poore Family Foundation and The Tillotson North Country Foundation More info: www.PooreFarm.org 603-237-5500

Sun., August 14, 2022 Poore Farm Concert

An afternoon performance at the Poore Farm Amphitheater & Stage Venue, just off NH Rte 145 Watch for Signs Event Specifics TBA: poorefarmevents.blogspot.com

OPEN ALL YEAR

Admission to either event: $10 Donation/adult Accompanied Children Under 12 are FREE

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Rt 3, Weirs Beach, NH • FunspotNH.com

•s Historic 15-acre estateAND andGARDENS gardens (ISTORIC ACRE ESTATE •s 41 rooms, COTTAGES cottages and suites ROOMS SUITES •s Restaurant andPUB Pub 2ESTAURANT AND •s Full-service Aveda#ONCEPT Spa &ULL SERVICE !VEDA 3PA •s Indoor pool, HOT hotTUB tubAND andlTNESS fitnessCENTRE center )NDOOR POOL •s Seasonal /UTDOOR outdoor POOL AND pool POOL BAR •s Weddings, and private events 7EDDINGS elopements, EVENTS

Christmas Farm Inn & Spa 3 Blitzen Way, Jackson, NH 03846 1-800-443-5837 info@christmasfarminn.com christmasfarminn.com NEWENGLAND.COM

3/21/22 2:23 PM

Explore the Beauty of Squam Lake

Seaside Village Resort Enjoy the beach during your summer vacation at NH’s only resort on the sand. Celebrating more than eighty years as a favorite family destination.

SeasideVillageResort.com 603-964-8204

The only resort in NH that’s “right on the beach” – Frommers Guide

Guided cruises and private charters. www.nhnature.org | 603-968-7194|Holderness, NH

WATER HAS A MEMORY: Preserving Strawbery Banke and Portsmouth from Sea Level Rise

Strawbery Banke Museum’s historic houses are being damaged by the impact of sea level rise. The "Water has a Memory" exhibit, in partnership with the City of Portsmouth, invites visitors to learn how history is impacting the present and future, understand the problems, and learn proactive ways to adopt local, regional, national, and international initiatives to address sea level rise. Open daily May 1 - Oct. 31, 2022, in the Rowland Gallery. The exhibit is included with general museum admission. 14 Hancock Street Portsmouth, NH 603.433.1100

STRAWBERYBANKE.ORG

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All Aboard! The Mountaineer offers a supremely scenic journey over Crawford Notch.

A Choice of Heritage and Scenic Train Rides! Take a step back in time and experience heritage train travel on our Valley Trains or enjoy a scenic journey aboard the Mountaineer! A White Mountains Attraction

Call or Book online

ConwayScenic.com • (603) 356-5251 38 Norcross Circle | North Conway Village

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ETA: NOT SOON ENOUGH DISCOVER YOUR NEW

Concord’s newest outdoor adventure! Pedal on the railroad tracks!!

188 Sewalls Falls Road, Concord, NH 03301

www.scenicrailriders.com

LOCH LYME LODGE “Get back to the basics” ENJOY ALL FOUR SEASONS IN WATERVILLE VALLEY

an Owned Vacation Property

Own a week or more • All units completely furnished with full kitchen • Rentals Available Complimentary: White Mountain Athletic Club • Native ID • WV Ice Arena Admission

Family Camping in a Farm Setting on the Swift River 306 Depot Road Tamworth, NH 03886 603-323-8031 • tamworthcamping.com

20 cabins with fireplaces Restaurant Late June – Labor Day Play, swim, boat, fish, hike, bike, and relax by the lake in Lyme, NH Open May to October • Pet-Friendly

800-423-2141 www.LochLymeLodge.com ~since 1923~

• 603-236-8366 •

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MOUN

INS TA

Plan your vacation at:

From legendary attractions, limitless recreation, and camping to cozy inns, riverside cottages, and grand hotels, a road trip to the New Hampshire’s White Mountains is on everyone’s vacation list.

WHIT

InnsOfWatervilleValley.com

VisitWhiteMountains.com H A M PSH

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/23/22 1:50 PM

Black Heritage Trail

of New Hamspire “Forgotten. Buried. Denied. No More.” Experience Portsmouth’s rich Black history. Hear stories of Ona Marie Judge’s escape from George Washington. Visit the wharf where Africans were unloaded as cargo. See the memorialized site of a Colonial African burying ground, and more.

603-570-8469 • blackheritagetrailnh.org Our Littleton, NH Hotel A Historic New England Landmark

Village Condominium Waterville Valley, NH

Two - Five bedroom, fully-equipped condominiums starting at $ 300.00 per night. All rates include daily access to the White Mt. Athletic Club, tennis, mt. biking, boats, recreation dept. activities, discounts on golf, & much more. Call for more information..

1-800-532-6630 • www.villagecondo.com

Enjoy Old-World Charm Mixed with Modern Amenities for a Truly Unique Experience

Walk to Restaurants, Shops, Attractions, and Activities Free Grab-&-Go Breakfast Free Hi Speed WiFi • Free Parking Distinctive and Charming Rooms Banquet and Meeting Space

www.thayersinn.com 603-444-6469 info@thayersinn.com

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CRAFT LASTING MEMORIES DISCOVER YOUR NEW

your destination for adventure

Family owned and operated for 49 years

MAKE CARLSON’S THE HUB OF YOUR WHITE MOUNTAINS VACATION ... Enjoy the mountain air hiking the Whites, riding the Cog up Mt. Washington, adventuring in Franconia Notch, or gazing at our brilliant night sky.

mt-washington.com 1 Mt. Washington Auto Road Gorham, NH 03581 (603) 466-3988

DISCOVER

ONE OF THE

603-846-5501 www.carlsonslodge.com

rte. 302 west twin mountain

WORLD’S

RAIL ADVENTURE T A E S GR thecog.com

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NEWENGLAND.COM

3/24/22 10:41 AM

RELAX.

MOUN

INS TA

YOU’R E ON

Plan your vacation at:

WHIT

OR DON’T AT ALL.

VisitWhiteMountains.com

LAKE TIME

H A M PSH

SALMON FALLS

N O W. The "Oldest Summer Resort in America", your year-round destination.

STONEWARE

Traditional New England Salt-Glaze Pottery Handmade by Local Artisans

G O T OL A KE SR E GION.ORG/ GLOBE-SPRING TO PL A N YOU R GE TAWAY! F OL L OW US: @NHL AK ESREGION   

Waterfront Shopping, Dining & Lodging. Beaches, Boat Rentals & Water Sports. Concerts, Cruises, Trolley Tours. Golf, Theater, Fishing & Biking. Sunsets.

Eat. Stay. Shop. Play. monadnocktravel.com

Experience Southwest New Hampshire!

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Ask for a FREE brochure! wolfeborochamber.com 603-569-2200

Open Every Day 9am - 5pm 75 Oak Street, Dover, NH

Brought to you by wolfeboronh.us Wolfeboro Economic Development Committee “Work and Live Where You Love to Play”

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NEW HAMPSHIRE

(Continued from p. 114) Grammy-celebrated and up-and-coming artists almost daily since it roared onto the scene last fall. They’re lining up to play this acoustically superb hall, risen from the dust of a 1905 YMCA whose upper f loors have lain silent for 60 years. jimmysoncongress.com LA MULITA COFFEE RYE

The happiest and most wide-awake coffee drinkers on the Seacoast just might be the residents of Rye. That’s where Colombian native Max Pruna and his wife, Andrea, roast and serve coffee sourced from small Colombian coffee farms, an enterprise he compares with craft breweries that make unique small batches for their devoted fans. (Pruna says his highly caffeinated dark roast will give you a “smack in the face”—in a good way.) The café/roastery’s name honors the steadfastness of mules, used for centuries by farmers in the rugged Andes. lamulitacoffee.com STRAWBERY BANKE MUSEUM PORTSMOUTH

Of all the places to stroll in one of the best walking towns in the country, the 10 acres

of Strawbery Banke Museum deserve top billing. Here, Portsmouth ’s earliest settlers built houses and businesses, and the more than 30 preser ved structures now tell local stories across different eras. But Strawbery Banke isn’t all about the past. The new exhibit “Water Has a Memory” gives an enlightening look at how rising seas threaten the future of this local treasure. The message: Preserving history demands commitment to solving the issues of today. strawberybanke.org THE SURF HOUSE HAMPTON

A beach landmark since 1930, the former Colony Motel was stripped down to its studs and given a top-to-bottom makeover before being relaunched as the Surf House in 2019. Everything was reimagined, from the tile in the bathrooms to the local artwork that adorns the stairwells. This 47-room hotel maintains some of its predecessor’s midcentury vibe while adding modern amenities and a dose of laid-back, West Coast attitude. surfhousenh.com VIDA CANTINA PORTSMOUTH

When David Vargas moved to southern Maine from his native California, he took his classic French training and Mexican heritage and stirred it up with the ingredients he sourced from local farms. His homemade tortillas turn carnitas tacos into works of art, the margarita menu runs deep, and the gluten-free and vegan options make this cantina a home for all. vidacantinanh.com

EDITORS’ PICKS: WHITE MOUNTAINS BRETTON WOODS ADVENTURE CENTER BRETTON WOODS

Complete a bucket list of excitement in the heart of the White Mountain National Forest. Ziplining? A three-hour tour lets you soar from the top of Rosebrook Canyon and take in stunning views of New England’s tallest mountain. Climbing? Guides will lead you up rock faces that’ll get your heart pounding even while safely on belay. Mountain biking? Explore miles of trails for all abilities. When you’re ready to unwind, a mountain gondola lifts you to the new Rosebrook Lodge overlooking the Presidentials, with its amphitheater for music events and talks about the wilderness that’s spread out below. brettonwoods.com CRUMB BUM BAKERY LITTLETON

Three words: duck fat biscuits. At breakfast, Southern transplant and pastry chef Kaylee Klein stuffs these rich, f luffy cre126 |

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ations with eggs, cheese, and either chorizo or maple-sage sausage at the hip Littleton bakery and café she owns with her husband, Chris Sweeney. Klein makes swell sweets, too, including chocolate croissants, monkey bread, and cookie pops—and this summer, expect frozen treats and hot dogs from the couple’s new side project, Uncle Custard. crumbbumbakery.com REI CO-OP NORTH CONWAY

A call to the great outdoors rings out from every square inch of REI’s expansive entry into New Hampshire. Gander at the rows of bikes that hang from the walls. Meander among the long stretches of tents and other camping equipment. Get expert advice on the shop’s extensive rental options. Or, put your feet up in the sitting area and choose your next adventure from the lineup of employee-recommended hikes. rei.com/stores/north-conway REK’-LIS BREWING COMPANY BETHLEHEM

The best place to hang after a long day of hiking in the White Mountains? On this Bethlehem brewpub’s multilevel patio, of course, with a hazy Wik-id IPA in one hand, and a honey mustard–slathered fried chicken sandwich in the other. The live music and good vibes spill into the adjacent field, scattered with cornhole boards and Adirondack chairs. It is truly hops heaven. reklisbrewing.com THOMPSON HOUSE EATERY JACKSON

Jeff and Kate Fournier first earned acclaim as Boston restaurateurs, but when they pulled up stakes for a 200-year-old property in the White Mountains, their talents came into full bloom. In the past couple of years, they’ve added greenhouses to extend their growing season and expanded their farm stand into a well-stocked year-round market feat uring loca l meats, cheeses, produce, a nd s weets. Best of a l l : t he house-made pasta Bolognese and grilled Mexican-st yle corn alone are worth the drive. thethompsonhouseeatery.com WHITE MOUNTAIN HOTEL & RESORT NORTH CONWAY

The view from this 80-room golf, spa, and year-round pool resort—looking straight up at White Horse Ledge and all around at undulating peaks—would be impossible to upgrade. But when 2020’s shutdown shelved a planned addition, the Sullivan family instead invested $3.5 million in an extreme refresh. Out went fixtures, furnishings, carpets, walls: in came an all-new aesthetic rooted in the tranquility of this place and achieved with nature’s palette, native materials, and art by regional talents. whitemountainhotel.com

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/22/22 12:13 PM

Sun & Sand Oasis...

HAMPTON BEACHHNH Super Star Rated U.S.A. Beach

★★★★★ Over 100 Free Events...

• 80 Free Nightly Concerts • Spectacular Fireworks Displays Every Wed. Night & Holidays • Free Movies on the Beach Monday Nights • World Class Annual Sand Sculpting Classic • Country Music in July • Miss Hampton Beach Contest • Children’s Festival • Talent Competition • Circus Show • Seafood Festival (fee) • Fire Show on beach

SUPER STAR BEACH earns top honors for clean water

5 STAR RATING: Rated in the top 5 beaches in US and in the top 10 values for resorts in America for water quality and safety by the National Resources Defense Council.

Hampton Beach is rated 1 of 4 beaches in water cleanliness of all beaches in U.S.A.! as awarded by The Surfrider Foundation & Sierra Club’s “The Cleanest Beach Award”.

For a FREE Hampton Beach Vacation Guide and to View our Beach Cam, Visit www.hamptonbeach.org or call 1-800-GET-A-TAN.

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Bienvenue Hampton

3/15/22 10:35 AM

NEW HAMPSHIRE

COLONIAL THEATRE OF LACONIA LACONIA

In 2002, it seemed as though the curtain had dropped for good when the Colonial Theatre closed after nearly 88 years. Last year, however, the venue reemerged with fitting dramatic f lair, as the beneficiary of one of the grandest preservation projects in New Hampshire history. The multimillion-dollar remake proved worth the wait, and the new 761-seat theater has reclaimed its rightful distinction as the place in the Lakes Region to catch a wide-ranging lineup of music, theater, comedy, and more. coloniallaconia.com MOULTON FARM MEREDITH

It may be sacrilege to say this, but the best whoopie pie in New England is found not in Maine, but at this delightful farm stand and garden near Lake Winnipesaukee. Wander past the f loral displays and stacks of ripe tomatoes and fresh greens and head inside to the bakery where the whoopie pies (made with Ghirardelli chocolate) await. Everything here is terrific, including the freshly made cider doughnuts. moultonfarm.com MOUNT WASHINGTON CRUISES LACONIA

It’s been 150 years since the wooden sidewheeler Mount Washington first began carrying sightseers on New Hampshire’s largest lake, Winnipesaukee. Today the scenery of mountains, islands, forests, and sparkling water still draws passengers to the Mount Washington, now a motorized steel-hulled four-decker that holds up to 1,000. Last year saw the debut of a second cruise vessel—the more intimate, 100-passenger Winnipesaukee Spirit—and the return of a refurbished icon, the mailboat Sophie C., which makes deliveries to lake residents as passengers ride along for this unique summer ritual. cruisenh.com PICKERING HOUSE INN WOLFEBORO

A historic home in downtown Wolfeboro reinvented as a boutique hotel, Pickering House Inn offers 10 beautifully appointed rooms, a “rustic luxury” event space, and a buzzy new restaurant, Pavilion. Since opening in 2018, the inn has come out of the gates strong—so strong, in fact, that it was recently tabbed by Travel & Leisure as New England’s top resort hotel (and #3 in the whole country). pickeringhousewolfeboro.com RAIL BIKE ADVENTURES

tion: a f leet of three-season rail bikes that bring visitors up close to the beauty of the Lakes Region. Woods and waters and even a trestle bridge are the photo-friendly highlights on the five-mile, easy-going guided tour, which runs out to the shores of Lake Winnisquam and back along one of the state’s oldest rail lines. When you’re back on your feet, hit the Laconia Railroad Station gift shop for a souvenir to keep the memories going. hoborr.com/rail-bike-adventures TAMWORTH DISTILLING TAMWORTH

Old Hampshire Applejack. White Mountain Vodka. The Mel low Fel low Corn Whiskey. As its product lineup indicates, Tamworth Distilling draws both inspiration and ingredients from its surroundings. Starting with house-milled grains and carrying right through to the fruits, herbs, and botanicals that layer in big f lavors and little surprises, its 250-gallon copper still has hosted a cornucopia of local ingredients. (There’s even a roasted turkey–f lavored whiskey!) Browse spirits and supplies at the distillery, which also does tastings, and watch for workshops and special events at the nearby Tamworth Lyceum. tamworthdistilling.com

EDITORS’ PICKS: MERRIMACK VALLEY BOOKERY MANCHESTER MANCHESTER

A one-stop shop for books and coffee is many people’s idea of a happy place, and ever since its 2018 debut, Bookery Manchester has become a bona f ide downtown Queen City haven, with curated reading displays, a whimsical selection of cards and gifts, and house-made pastries. Grab a latte, browse the latest releases, sip, and let yourself (if only for a while) slip away. bookerymht.com FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT HOUSES MANCHESTER

Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1950, the Zimmerman House has long ranked among the most popular attractions of the Currier Museum of Art. So when the opportunity presented itself in 2019 to add a second Wright gem—built on the same street just five years later—the Currier folks jumped at the chance. While the Zimmerman House has long been praised as an example of Wright’s Prairie House style, the 1955 Kalil House is a true rarity: one of only seven ever built (and the only one in New England) using Wright’s modular Usonian Automatic building system. currier.org/frank-lloyd-wright

LACONIA

GREENLEAF

Hit the ground pedaling at the Hobo & Winnipesaukee Scenic Railroad’s newest attrac-

MILFORD

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The short drive from Manchester is worth it

when the destination is Greenleaf, a farmto-table restaurant from acclaimed chef Chris Viaud, who put Milford on the map when he made it through an impressive nine rounds of Top Chef. Housed in a 150-year-old former bank, Greenleaf offers an upscalerustic menu featuring more than a dozen local farms and producers, and each plate is an artful, seasonal celebration. (Tip: Make time to sample another side of Viaud’s talents at his most recent venture, Culture, a temple of bread and pastries just a few minutes away.) greenleafmilford.com THE HOTEL CONCORD CONCORD

The New Hampshire State House is famed as one of the most accessible in the nation, allowing visitors to get right up close to democrac y in action. That makes this upscale boutique hotel, which expanded to 38 rooms in 2019, a f itting stay: From its windows, the State House’s gold dome seems close enough to touch. You’ll f ind nods to the political backdrop throughout— from framed photos of historic election moments to the lobby-adjacent bar named, of course, The Lobbyist—as well as bright, individually decorated rooms equipped with Alexa smart speakers and offering capitol, city, or river views. Add in next-door access to the art-house cinema Red River Theatres and the tony O Steaks & Seafood, and you’ve got an unfailing top vote-getter. hotelconcordnh.com RED RIVER THEATRES CONCORD

This three-screen downtown theater is a delightful reminder that not all new movies are megawatt Marvel blasts. First-run arthouse releases and locally produced f ilms have a home at this state-of-the-art venue, and over the years cinephiles have f locked to its hosted workshops and director Q&As. And with its cut-above refreshments (wine, beer, sandwiches, local chocolates, etc.), the Indie Café plays a delicious co-starring role. redrivertheatres.org SMOKEHAUS BARBECUE AMHERST

If you needed proof that southern New Hampshire is hungry for Southern-style barbecue, know that in the summer, this roadside joint in the Manchester suburbs regularly sells out of the 1,000 pounds of meat it smokes each day (the oh-so-tender brisket is the f irst to go). Co-owner and military veteran Dave Mielke perfected his pitmaster chops years ago while stationed in Virginia, and he takes pride in barbecue done right, from his six homemade sauces— including an off-menu eastern North Carolina vinegar sauce—to the hyperlocal brews on tap to wash it all down. smokehausbbq.com

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/22/22 12:18 PM

LUKE MOORE PHOTO (STOWE)

EDITORS’ PICKS: LAKES REGION

BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

VERMONT

EDITORS’ PICKS: GREATER BURLINGTON ARTSRIOT

LUKE MOORE PHOTO (STOWE)

BURLINGTON

Hav ing grow n into an essentia l South End A r ts District f i xt ure since opening in a former auto-body shop in 2012, this art/food/performance venue changed hands in 2020, but its grand reopening last September shows the beat goes on. Adding to the lure of art shows, poetry and theater performances, f ilm series, and live music: an expansive new deck, a f ledgling distillery, and three huge garage doors that can be opened in warm weather for maximum summer-hangout vibe. artsriot.com CAFÉ MAMAJUANA BURLINGTON

As someone who’s “extremely motivated to create space for women of color in the Vermont food industry,” Maria Lara-Bregatta wasted no time blasting out her own niche

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in the Burlington dining scene with explosively f lavored, endlessly creative cooking that draws on her Dominican, Spanish, and Italian background. She capped off the f irst year at her Oak Street eatery (a space shared with a top-notch veggie sandwich café, Poppy) with a James Beard nomination for best new restaurant. One bite of her f lawless empanadas, and you’ll know why. cafemamajuana.com FARMERS & FORAGERS DOCKSIDE BURLINGTON

Given how faithfully Sol Bayer-Pacht and Lauren Johnson have been schlepping the freshest f lavors of Vermont’s small producers to the public via food truck, it’s only fair for we diners to return the favor by coming to them for a change. And they’ve made that a highly attractive proposition by setting up this seasonal venue at Burlington Harbor Marina, where from May to October diners can graze on Farmers & Foragers’ acclaimed organic, locally sourced

fare—including their f lagship cheesesteak, stuffed with beef raised a mere 20 miles away—and enjoy a bar, tent seating, live entertainment, and one of the city’s best water views. vtfarmersandforagers.com LOCAL MOTION BURLINGTON

To call Local Motion just a bike rental outfit is akin to calling the nearby Island Line Rail Trail just a cycling path. The group’s seasonal bike ferry service on Lake Champlain adds to the splendor of what might be New England’s most idyllic ride, a 14-mile route that includes island and mainland stretches, punctuated by a causeway that will have you feeling as though you’re gliding atop the water. localmotion.org MADE INN VERMONT BURLINGTON

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innkeeper Linda Wolf and her elegant/ funky Victorian mansion, both brimming with personality and now celebrating their 10th year of welcoming travelers (along with kids and pets) to a one-of-a-kind Vermont getaway. Lose yourself in the wideranging library of board games, books, and vinyl records; relax in the outdoor hot tub; and tap into Wolf ’s insider recommendations for making the most of her hometown. madeinnvermont.com SHELBURNE MUSEUM SHELBURNE

After seeing the eclectic holdings of f ine and folk art, furnishings, quilts, dolls, decoys, horse-drawn carriages, and circus memorabilia—exhibited in an equally encyclopedic collection of 39 structures at this must-see Vermont museum—you’ll get how apropos it is that PBS’s Antiques Roadshow will film its first-ever Vermont episode here on July 12. Spend a summer day exploring the 45-acre campus, though, and you still won’t have seen everything there is to offer: One of its newest attractions is a holiday light display that even adds twinkle to the museum’s 1906 steamboat, Ticonderoga, and it’s worth coming back for this winter. shelburnemuseum.org WHISTLING MAN SCHOONER CO. BURLINGTON

It’s f itting that a schooner named Friend Ship, a f ixture on Lake Champlain since the ’90s, is now sailing on the buddy system: Whistling Man’s longtime f lagship was joined in 2019 by a sibling, Wild Rose. Both Maine-built replicas of a 1904 fishing schooner, today the two offer passengers the chance to take home not lobster and cod but lifelong memories of adventure, camaraderie, and sherbet-colored #nof ilter sunsets. Two-hour tours depart daily from mid-May to early October; private cruises available. whistlingman.com

EDITORS’ PICKS: NORTHERN & CENTRAL VERMONT THE BLACKBACK PUB WATERBURY

Boasting a killer beer list that looks like a who’s who in craft brews—Hill Farmstead Brewer y, Lawson’s Finest Liquids, and Freak Folk Bier have all been in the rotation—this friendly watering hole was fond of saying that it had more taps than bar stools (32 and 30, respectively). That is, until a recent upstairs expansion added 12 more stools, four more taps, more tables, and a lounge area, all the better for tucking into the pub nachos with Great Hill 130 |

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blue cheese, bacon, maple, and smoked crema, and other seasonally focused fare. theblackbackpub.com HAYMAKER BUN COMPANY MIDDLEBURY

This is what resilience looks like: a steady march of plump and tender swirls of brioche, emissaries of hope from the kitchen of Caroline Corrente. Her bakery/café was not yet three years old last fall when its sister restaurant, The Arcadian (run by Corrente’s husband, Matt), was shuttered by Covid-era hardship. Buoyed by local support and earnest craving for its stellar pastries and piled-high brioche-bun burgers and sandwiches, Haymaker carried on and even expanded its hours—opening the window a bit wider for regulars and newcomers alike to come in and feed their soul. haymakerbuns.com LAMOILLE VALLEY RAIL TRAIL SWANTON TO ST. JOHNSBURY

New England’s longest rail trail is a whopping 93 miles that runs across northern Vermont, along the former Lamoille Valley Railroad, from St. Johnsbury to within just a couple of miles of Lake Champlain. Mountain ranges, swimming holes, and inviting small towns all play starring roles, as does a heightened appreciation for the Green Mountain State that’s only possible while on two wheels. lvrt.org

SUGARBUSH SOARING WARREN

It may be rare that 20 minutes of a vacation adventure can leave a memory so full of wonder that it never fades, but that is what a glider flight over the Mad River Valley delivers. Taking off from a plateau two miles outside Warren Village, these FAA-authorized glider pilots let the wind currents carry you over a landscape that has drawn glider enthusiasts to the valley since the 1950s. As you f loat in silence over mountains and water, you know you will always remember what it feels like to be an eagle. sugarbushsoaring.com TÄLTA LODGE STOWE

Kayak strapped on top? Bikes stacked in the rack? Kids, pups, duffels, f ly rods in the back? If loaded-to-the-max is how you roll, you’ll fit right in at this ’60s-meet-the-’20s mountain lodge, which began welcoming adventurers last autumn under the hotel brand Bluebird by Lark. A bike shed and in-room modular gear wall make it easy to stow your equipment after a day of exertion on Stowe’s legendary terrain, and the indoor pool, sauna, and hot tub are your remedy for weary muscles. bluebirdhotels.com /hotels / talta-lodge

EDITORS’ PICKS: SOUTHERN VERMONT

LAWSON’S FINEST LIQUIDS

ABRACADABRA COFFEE CO.

WAITSFIELD

WOODSTOCK

More than three decades after Sean Lawson began experimenting with maple brews as an undergrad at the University of Vermont, the f lavors of his home state continue to drive his creations. At this destination brewery, opened in Waitsf ield in 2018, we suggest lingering in the timber-frame taproom or outdoor beer garden and nursing a glass of Lawson’s potent Maple Tripple or the delightful Brave Little State pale ale— and don’t miss the retail store, where you can stock up on freshly canned goodness to bring home. lawsonsfinest.com

This is Woodstock ’s answer to the coolvibes coffee shop, complete with a sleek interior space with cozy seats, an outdoor f ire pit, and mountain views, plus a 1964 Shasta camper turned mobile café. Baristas work their espresso-machine magic every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday in the barn, serving up seasonally changing signature drinks like the Vermont maple horchata latte, crafted with house-made syrup, as well as warm Liége waffles and canelés. abracadabracoffeeco.com

SMUGGLERS’ NOTCH JEFFERSONVILLE

The resort affectionately known as Smuggs is a perennial winner of “ best family ski resort” acclaim, and that high bar carries over to summer. Park your car once, then let family members find their favorite spaces. Indoors, there’s the $4.4 million, 26,000-square-foot FunZone 2.0, with a climbing wall, an obstacle course, laser tag, mini golf, and practically anything else a kid could dream of doing. Outdoors, meanwhile, has heated pools, hikes, mountain biking, and supervised camps for the younger set. smuggs.com

KING ARTHUR BAKING COMPANY NORWICH

To understand the new name of America’s oldest f lour company, which had been known as King Arthur Flour from 1790 until 2020, just shop the dazzling realm of products (Vietnamese cinnamon really should be in your spice arsenal) at its f lagship store. Or take a class at the on-site baking school, where even beginners come away feeling accomplished. Now, the rebranding makes sense: It wasn’t an impulsive response to the pandemic-f ueled ba k ing surge, but rather a ref lection of the company’s expanded mission to support and inspire everyone who dips a rubber spatula into this ancient art. kingarthurbaking.com/visit

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/22/22 12:18 PM

ADVERTORIAL

INN to INN WALKING TOUR

MAP ILLUSTR ATION BY M I C H A E L B Y E R S

VERMONT

WALK FROM INN-TO-INN AND SEE VERMONT AT 10 MILES A DAY The “Vermont Inn-to-Inn Walking Tour” is a four-day, selfguided walk averaging 10 miles a day, mainly through old country roads of gravel and through the villages of Chester, Weston, Proctorsville and Ludlow. The four historic inns–Colonial House Inn & Motel, Inn Victoria, Golden Stage Inn, and The Pettigrew are linked by their owners’ shared love of Vermont and a commitment to their undertheradar walking tour. The oldest and longest running tour of its kind in the state, Vermont Innto-Inn Walking Tour is well established and focused on guest safety and comfort

your day with refreshments and a home-cooked meal; and, in the morning, send you on your way with a hearty breakfast, snacks for the road, a map of your walking route, and best wishes for a pleasant day. Its a large circle divided by four Inns; you end up back at the same inn you started at four days earlier. A final feature that sets this tour apart from so many others? You’re on your own, so you can set your own pace. Walk alone or with friends; do as much or as little of the walk as you like. Basically, the tour is as idiosyncratic as the state in which you’re walking. Join us from mid-May through the end of October.

It’s simple and efficient. The innkeepers transport your bags door to door, Vermont sherpa-style; greet you at the end of

833-Inn-2-Inn (833-466-2466) www.VermontInntoInnWalking.com

THE WALK PART 1: (13 miles)

PART 2: (11.25 miles)

PART 3: (6.7 miles)

PART 4: (10.8 miles)

INN VICTORIA

GOLDEN STAGE INN

THE PETTIGREW INN

THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN

INN VICTORIA TO GOLDEN STAGE INN 321 Main St., Chester, VT 802-875-4288 InnVictoria.com

GOLDEN STAGE INN TO THE PETTIGREW INN 399 Depot St., Proctorsville, VT 802-226-7744 GoldenStageInn.com

THE PETTIGREW INN TO THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN 13 Pleasant St., Ludlow, VT 802-228-4846 PettigrewInn.com

THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN & MOTEL TO INN VICTORIA 287 Route 100, Weston, VT 802-824-6286 CoHoInn.com

“It’s a meditative walk. Long before the village of Chester appears and I’ve come full circle, I realize that my life has become breathtakingly simple in the last few days. I walk; I look at wildflowers; I avoid poison ivy; I take a deep breath and listen to nature singing; I wonder what’s up ahead; I try to remember to look back from time to time. Occasionally I hum–and then try to get the song out of my head. “And then I take another step. Am I closer or farther away? It’s my path, my walk. I get to decide.” –Annie Graves, Yankee Magazine, May/June 2012 | To read more, visit: NewEngland.com/Inn

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Vermont Crafts Council You’re invited! 30th anniversary Vermont Open Studio Weekend. Over 150 artisans open their studios Memorial Day weekend (May 28 & 29). Meet the artists, ask questions, and purchase original artwork. Tour small towns, and enjoy our fresh air and rural charm.

Reasons to Visit Vermont

The Woodstocker

Ex wi pr fa or an fa ho W re pr

The renovated farmhouse-style B&B in the heart of Woodstock. Stroll downtown through the covered bridge, hike the nearby national park, visit Billings Farm or the Quechee Gorge, and enjoy walking to dinner each night. Guests rave about the breakfast in bed!

TheWoodstockerBnB.com (802)457-3896

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Outdoor Events at Spruce Peak

SprucePeak.com

The quiet beauty of Vermont’s landscape draws visitors in each season. Don’t miss out on our favorite reasons to visit and celebrate the state of Vermont. Photo: Courtesy of Vermont Tourism

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VermontCrafts.com (802)223-3380

Summer on the Spruce Peak Village Green brings artisan markets, family movie nights, farm table dinners, and worldclass concerts to the heart of the Green Mountains. Enjoy outdoor activities, dining, and events for the entire family!

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Relaxation for You and Fido! Relax! The Phineas Swann Inn & Spa, one of the world’s most dog-friendly inns, now has a full-service day spa, SpaVermont, open for its two-legged guests. Enjoy a spa day while staffers take your pooch for walks!

The Pettigrew Inn

Liberty Hill Farm

A comfortable year-round getaway in southern Vermont, The Pettigrew Inn is the place to relax after a day of adventure. Centrally located for hiking, biking, fishing, antiquing, and more, the inn is also walking distance to Ludlow dining and shopping.

Welcome! Reunite your family on the farm! Create wonderful memories on a Vermont farm vacation. Incredible meals with local foods; comfortable lodging— space for everyone. Explore the fields, forest, and river. Visit the barn, milk a cow, feed the calves.

PettigrewInn.com (802) 228-4846

PhineasSwann.com (802) 326-4306

Sterling Ridge

The Landmark Trust USA Experience history firsthand with a stay at these historic properties, including a farmhouse on an heirloom apple orchard, a romantic retreat, and Naulakha, Rudyard Kipling’s famed estate. Contactless wholehouse rentals, full kitchens, Wi-Fi. Properties thoughtfully restored by a historic preservation non-profit.

The quintessential Vermont destination for romantic getaways, family vacations, private events, and beyond, featuring a stunning A-frame home, cozy log cabins, an authentic farmhouse, and a large inn-style home. Enjoy mountain views, walking trails, a seasonal pool, a private pond, and more.

SterlingRidgeResort.com (802) 644-8265

LandmarkTrustUSA.org (802) 254-6868

Seesaw’s Lodge An all-season quintessential Vermont destination built on century-old tradition. Carefully restored lodge and cabins with modern comforts, plus the legendary Johnny Seesaw’s restaurant. Perfect Green Mountain getaway centrally located between Manchester, Stratton, and Weston. Come relax, explore and celebrate.

SeesawsLodge.com (802) 856-7560

Bristol Suites

Trapp Family Lodge

BristolSuites.com (802) 453-4065

A Little of Austria…a Lot of Vermont®! Family fun & outdoor adventures await you across our 2,600-acres mountain resort by the family that inspired The Sound of Music. Spectacular mountain views, and Europeanstyle and New England cuisine featured across four restaurants.

Power Play Sports Step back in time to an oldschool family-owned store. Power Play is a local fixture buying, selling, and servicing new and used bikes and ski and snowboard gear, and selling team sports gear, skates, and more. A truly one-of-a-kind customer service experience.

PowerPlaySportsVT.com (802) 888-6557

YourPlaceinVermont.com (802) 228-5830

Stay in historic downtown Bristol. Country charm with all the modern conveniences. Choose a hotel-style room or a 1-, 2-, or 3-bedroom suite with full kitchen. Our inn has a sitting room, laundry room, exercise room, and Vermont Marketplace shop.

TrappFamily.com (800) 826-7000

Mountain Top Resort

Fat Sheep Farm & Cabins

MountainTopInn.com (802) 483-2311

Okemo Valley Get inspired! Play, stay, and seek adventures in the Okemo Valley. Enjoy our mountains, waterfalls, and lakes. Revel in our food, cultural fare, and small towns and villages. Save the date for the Best of Vermont Summer Festival 8/20 & 8/21.

LibertyHillFarm.com (802) 767-3926

The Boston Globe describes Fat Sheep Farm as “a magical place” offering amazing views, modern and comfortable cabins, and hands-on farm experiences. Soak in the sunset by the fire pit, sample the farm’s bounty, or try your hand at milking sheep.

Mountain Top Resort is perfectly situated on 700 acres offering luxury lodge rooms, cabins, and guest houses, indoor/outdoor restaurant and tavern, pool, lake, private beach, horseback riding, 60km of trails, skiing/snowshoeing, sleigh rides, spa, spectacular views, and so much more!

FatSheepFarmVermont.com (802) 436-4696

ourism

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PARKER HILL FARM

list of hard-to-find Vermont beers and Italian wines. kedronvalleyinn.com/dining

SPRINGFIELD

Discover glamping as imagined by Dr. Doolittle at Peter and Patty Fuller’s 18th-century farm, which in 2021 became Vermont’s first true luxury campground and began pampering overnight guests in addition to the permanent residents: chickens, ducks, Jersey cows, and a dozen adorable alpacas. While the amenities at this 18-and-older retreat are grown-up (rustic-chic tents with luxury bedding, Wi-Fi, and en suite bathrooms; smokeless firepits and tent-side grills), everyone’s a kid when they try their hand at trout fishing, catch a barn-side movie night, or take their morning coffee with a sweet alpaca at their elbow. parkerhillfarm.com RANSOM TAVERN SOUTH WOODSTOCK

Who knew that the best Neapolitan-style pizza could be found in the hamlet of South Woodstock? Located inside the countrymodern Kedron Valley Inn, Ransom Tavern thinks globally and eats locally, piling Vermont meats, cheeses, and produce on bubbling rounds of dough made according to the strict standards of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. Don’t miss the impressive

THE SILVER FORK MANCHESTER

Like a beloved book re-read through the years, the Silver Fork, first opened in 2011, is the kind of culinar y destination that demands revisiting. You never know what global inspiration chef Mark French will be channeling—German, Caribbean, Turkish, Baltimorean—or what creative, locally f lavored libations his wife and co-owner, Melody, will have on offer. Even more reason to return? The restaurant’s über-stylish new home in a former library, where soaring windows and midcentury-modern panache are the backdrop for a storybook night out that you’ll never want to end. thesilverforkvt.com SOUTHERN VERMONT ARTS CENTER MANCHESTER

Blessed with 103 acres of forest and f ields in the heart of the Green Mountains, and the home of Vermont’s largest sculpture park, SVAC made the most of its natural gifts during the pandemic: increasing outdoor programming, debuting a “story walk” trail, and hosting open-air seating for music

and theater performances. But a boundless spirit extends throughout its indoor spaces as well, from its airy, modern curATE café to its galleries and exhibits packed with the creative expression of artists from the 19th and 20th centuries as well as those working today and looking to the future. svac.org WOODSTOCK INN & RESORT WOODSTOCK

If you’ve traveled to Vermont only to leafpeep or slope-schuss, let this luxury landmark be your gateway to the glories of summer in the Green Mountain State. Still sparkling from $16.5 million worth of enhancements in 2018, the historic 142room inn and resort is known for pampering guests indoors (the 10,000-square-foot spa is a Forbes Fou r Sta r ex per ience) before sending them outdoors to play on an 18-hole championship golf course, area mountain biking trails, tennis courts, and more. Meanwhile, the f lavors of summer are delivered right to diners’ plates, courtesy of the inn’s three-acre gardens and executive chef Rhys Lewis; look for his seasonal Red Barn Dinner Series, one of the hottest tickets around for Vermont foodies. woodstockinn.com Yankee Magazine 1_6 page ad May/June 2022.qx

Where Luxury & Adventure Gather Elegant accommodations touched by historic legacy and exciting recreation oﬀerings for everyone.

Book Direct or Online

802-875-4288 innvictoria.com

321 Main St. • Chester, VT

~ An Historic 1851 B&B with all the modern amenities ~

Guests with electric vehicles may charge them for free at Inn Victoria’s charging station.

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866.400.7551

Woodstock, Vermont www.woodstockinn.com Vermont’s Most Beautiful Address

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/15/22 10:42 AM

SBTHEGREENMAN/ISTOCK (PUFFINS OFF THE COAST OF MAINE)

Trip Advisors Travelers’ Choice Award 2021 Top 10% of hospitality businesses in the world

BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

SE A N B E C K E T T, G R E E N M O U N TA I N E X P O SU R E / I S TO C K ( P U F F I N S O N M AT I N I C U S R O C K )

MAINE

EDITORS’ PICKS: PORTLAND BEST BOWER PORTLAND

Get a rare chance to bunk down beside history at this year-old Munjoy Hill guesthouse in the shadow of the c. 1807 Portland Observatory. Three of the six rooms boast skylight views of the 86-foot-tall National Historic Landmark, and all share a tranquil terraced courtyard with it. The all-new decor is modern but warm, with local artwork and craftsmanship (reclaimed wood, handmade tile showers), and optional add-ons like an array of nibbles from the Cheese Shop of Portland testify to the hosts’ mission to cater to guests while providing them the privacy to enjoy life in the catbird seat. bestbower.me CHILDREN’S MUSEUM & THEATRE OF MAINE PORTLAND

Enter an enthralling world where learning

MAY | JUNE 2022

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is carefully and colorfully disguised as play. Since relocating to a new three-story, 30,000-square-foot home on Thompson’s Point in 2021, this hands-on museum and its children’s theater have wowed infants to teens with distinctly Maine attractions (yes, kids still love captaining a lobster boat) and all-new arts and STEM exhibits that encourage them to dress up, create, get wet, touch water creatures, and even become animated characters in Mainer Ashley Bryan’s Beautiful Blackbird storybook. kitetails.org EASTERN PROM FOOD TRUCKS PORTLAND

Sunday brunch or any sunny summer day, for that matter, brings out the crowds for some of the city’s best food trucks, including Falafel Maf ia, Mr. Tuna (yes, sushi from a truck can be delicious), and the melt-in-your-mouth mini doughnuts of the Eighty 8 Donut Café. The setting is also something you’ll eat up: Picnic on the

sprawling lawn, chase the kiddos around the playground, or gaze at the harbor and Fort Gorges. easternpromenade.org THE HIGHROLLER LOBSTER CO. PORTLAND

The Highroller has caused a stir in downtown Portland with its lobster roll riffs: griddled brioche f illed with meat and zigzagged with lime and jalapeno aioli, for instance, or with charred pineapple mayo and lobster ghee. Launched as a food cart in 2015, it debuted as a restaurant three years later, and now it has an expanded outdoor patio and gift shop. Get your claws on the lobster grilled cheese and lobster cheese crisp tacos to experience even more crustacean innovation. highrollerlobster.com LEEWARD PORTLAND

Opened in March 2020, Leeward lived up to its name by offering shelter amid chaotic | 135

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Buy one night, get the second night 50% off. *Restrictions apply;

Valid Monday-Thursday, April 21-June 23

Life is Meant for Great Adventures. The Nonantum Resort offers an authentic Maine experience on the shores of the Kennebunk River. Our 7-acre waterfront property features modern coastal charm and is perfectly positioned to iconic Dock Square.

Come escape to the coast in beautiful Kennebunkport, Maine.

Call to Book, Mention Promo Code YANK. 207-967-4050

times in the form of soul-warming handmade pasta dishes and superb Ita lian wines over which to linger. The married team who run Leeward, chef Jake Stevens and wine/service pro Raquel Stevens, are alums of award-winning local restaurants (Eventide and the late, lamented Drifters Wife). But here, they’ve found the limelight on their own, notching James Beard nominations for best new restaurant and outstanding pastry chef (for Kate Fisher Hamm). leewardmaine.com LUCKY CATCH CRUISES PORTLAND

NONANTUMRESORT.COM

You’ ll be the entertaining one at ever y clambake once you’ve pitched in on a working lobster boat. Don a rubber apron and gloves; bait and haul traps; learn how to tell males from females and keepers from throwbacks. Depending on the tour, Captain Tom Martin or a crewmate will also show you Casco Bay’s lighthouses or a colony of harbor seals. Purchase “bugs” off the boat, and Portland Lobster Company will steam them when you return to the pier. luckycatch.com SCALES PORTLAND

Tops for seafood in a city blessed with f ine options, this singularly focused restaurant overlooking the working waterfront serves more than the usual suspects. Sure, raw oysters are briny-delicious, and pan-roasted whole lobster is the pièce de résistance. But this is also your place to sample other yummy gifts from Maine’s waters: Bangs Island mussels, Jonah crab, haddock, halibut when it’s in season, on the cusp of summer. Freshbaked corn, anadama, or brown bread is a must for mopping your plate clean. scalesrestaurant.com SEA BAGS PORTLAND

Adorned with a full-size sailboat and bright ly colored buoys sa lvaged from all over the state, Sea Bags’ brand-new 2,500-square-foot f lagship store on Commercial Street is a must-visit for fans of its nautical wares. Sewn from recycled sailcloth that once f lapped in the sun and sea spray, and running the gamut from dopp kits to duffels, these graphic totes perfectly capture the essence of the Maine coast. seabags.com SPECKLED AX PORTLAND

Serious coffee nerds have a friend in Speck led A x founder Mat t Bolinder, who meticulously f ire-roasts his awardwinning single-origin beans and blends 136 |

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MAINE

over local hardwood. He opened his f irst ca fé on Cong ress St reet in 2 012 a nd recently added two new outposts: a production facility with a retail counter in the Back Cove, and a sleek waterfront Thames Street shop with an expanded food menu, including fanciful scones and muffins, and crazygood bacon, egg, and cheese sandwiches, all made in-house. speckledax.com

EDITORS’ PICKS: SOUTHERN COAST

CONGDON’S DOUGHNUTS

WALKERS MAINE

WELLS

CAPE NEDDICK

Patrons have lined up out the door of this mom-and-pop shop for Maine blueberry– dotted doughnuts and more since 1955. It’s located a quick drive from the beaches, and somehow these light and airy treats taste best with a backdrop of surf and sand. Congdon’s After Dark hosts community food truck nights in the parking lot from late May to early October, with a beer garden pouring brews from Maine breweries. congdons.com

Rising from the ashes of a 2020 f ire that shuttered their beloved restaurant three weeks into a pandemic, Justin and Danielle Walker managed to build back better. Justin’s genius for wood-fired cooking is on glorious display (don’t miss the duck), with pastry chef Matt Jauk loading us up with ca rbs, from house-made sourdough to blueberry cheesecake with toffee crumble. Service has a polish that few labor-strapped restaurants can match. Even better: A heft y portion of the summertime produce comes from the Walkers’ own farm. walkersmaine.com

BIDDEFORD

STONEWALL KITCHEN COMPANY STORE

The restaurant kitchens in this former mill town are generating enough heat to justify giving Biddeford a dining award in its own right. Local nominees for the 2022 James Beard Awards are chef-owner Bowman Brown of Elda and chef Ben Jackson (formerly of Drifters Wife) of Magnus on Water, but Biddeford’s culinary bench runs deep. There’s next-level comfort food at Palace Diner; Scandinavian café fare at Jackrabbit (another Bowman Brown joint); nationally hailed loaves at Night Moves Bread; ultrafresh scoops at Sweetcream Dairy. Oh, and some of the best beer in Maine? Banded Brewing, check.

YORK

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Visitors “from away” love stocking up here on products that evoke carefree Maine days: Sea Salt Surf candles, Balsam Woods room spray, Maple Chipotle Grille Sauce, Wild Maine Blueberry Jam. This summer, discover a campus that’s been transformed by the addition of Stonewall Home: a decorfocused store in the space occupied for 13 years by the company’s cooking school. Consumers’ appetites may have changed, but the café remains your place to try foods prepared with Stonewall Kitchen’s mostloved condiments. stonewallkitchen.com / yorkstore.html

WATER STREET INN KITTERY

Self-check-in allows you to breeze in like you own this red-brick Victorian and its 170 0s barn, now w ith eight sun-f il led rooms and suites outf itted for your every comfort. Gaze out at the Piscataqua River and Portsmouth from a front-porch rocker, and plot your walk-to adventures: breakfast pastries at Lil’s, a drop-in class at Yoga East, quarter-pound lobster rolls at Warren’s. The cultural, historical, and culinary playground that is Portsmouth lies just a

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Make your own adventure.

MAINE

15-minute walk or f ive-minute bike ride across Memorial Bridge. waterstinn.com WHITE BARN INN KENNEBUNK

For nearly 50 years, the White Barn Inn Restaurant has been the standard-bearer for f ine dining not only in Maine, but throughout New England. In 2021, a former barn annex got new restaurant life as Little Barn—same stellar chef, now more casual. The 27-room inn itself, an Auberge Resorts Collection property, also got spruced up, so that longtime guests still feel its timelessness while basking in a refreshing new brightness, like windows newly open to the sea. aubergeresorts.com/ whitebarninn

EDITORS’ PICKS: MIDCOAST & ACADIA

Create lasting memories in Maine. 92 Wall Point Road, Boothbay Harbor, Maine 207 633 2494 linekinbayresort.com

Set Sail and Go!

ARAGOSTA AT GOOSE COVE DEER ISLE

An FBC Location

One Sixty Five The Inn on Park Row

If it ’s been a while since you’ve experienced the unrivaled f ine dining and dreamy accommodations at this 21-acre coastal escape, some quick highlights: expanded deck, tripling the outdoor seating and adding an alfresco kitchen/grilling area; additional lodging, bringing the total of cottages and suites to 13; a provisions shop stocked with such treats as house-made kimchi and sausage; and an enchanting greenhouse for private dining. Sti l l unchanged : loca l ly rooted, forward-looking cuisine by chef-owner Devin Finigan, who’s been dazzling the Maine dining scene for the past decade. aragostamaine.com THE CLAREMONT HOTEL SOUTHWEST HARBOR

Photo by Ben Keller

Escape to the islands of Maine! All-inclusive overnight adventures aboard classic Windjammers

— Introducing OneSixtyFive — 16 elegant rooms | cozy fireside pub intimate private events | pet-friendly cottage full concierge or self check-in options – all in the heart of downtown Brunswick – Formerly The Brunswick Inn

1-844-807-WIND (9463)

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165 Park Row, Brunswick, ME 04011 207-729-4914 | onesixtyfivemaine.com

“ Wowed ” ba rely describes the sensation of taking in the Claremont’s watermountains-sky view. You’ll be impressed, too, by the st ylish, extensive, year-old makeover that’s reawakened this 1884 hotel. With reverence for the property’s history and its location, looking across Somes Sound at Acadia National Park, new owners have elevated guest experience throughout. The spa, pool, cabanas, and restaurant deck are new, and the decor, taking a cue from Mother Nature, stimulates and soothes. With an updated-classic cocktail in hand, all’s well in your world. theclaremonthotel.com

COASTAL MAINE BOTANICAL GARDENS BOOTHBAY

Is it because of the recent get-outdoors trend, or the ginormous trolls ? Either way, New England ’s largest botanical

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THE CAT IS BACK

Bar Harbor, Maine, to Nova Scotia in 3.5 Hours

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A True Year-round outdoor destination

MAINE

garden is more popular than ever. These 300-plus acres of trailed woodlands and themed, cultivated spaces f lourish in a harsh, salt-air-swept environment, beaut i f u l ly demonst r at i ng p er s e ver a nce. Danish artist Thomas Dambo’s “Guardians of the Seeds”—recycled-wood trolls installed last year with help from 150 communit y volunteers—teach lessons, too, about how seemingly small efforts help sustain our planet. These giants will inspire for years … until they’re reclaimed by the earth from which they sprang. mainegardens.org FARNSWORTH ART MUSEUM ROCKLAND Scan TO Request a 2022 Visitor Guide

Learn more at MaineLakesandMountains.com

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There may be no more f itting setting in which to view the works of three generations of Wyeths—N.C., Andrew, and Jamie—than this handsome and airy Midcoast museum. Since the 1920s, Maine has inspired their art, while they, in turn, have inspired art lovers around the world. A recent bequest of paintings and drawings following the death of matriarch Betsy Wyeth increases the museum’s cache of Wyeths to 100-plus, including some that have rarely been on public display. Though the museum’s entire 15,000-work collection is reason enough to visit, locals often call it “the Wyeth Museum” because of its close ties to the family. The name fits. farnsworthmuseum.org LONG GRAIN CAMDEN

From the steamed mussels in coconutlemongrass broth to the hearty drunken noodles, aka pad kemao, every option here is fresh, perfectly spiced, and masterfully prepared. After shifting to takeout-only for a year and a half, Paula Palakawong and Bas Nakjaroen’s intimate, dow nto-earth pan-Asian restaurant reopened last fall for in-person dining; factor in its new sister eater y, the more eclectic and laid-back BOWA, and it looks like Camden is in for a tasty summer indeed. longgraincamden.com PRIMO ROCKLAND

Opened in 2020 as a casual, open-air venue on the grounds of chef-owner Melissa Kelly’s farmhouse restaurant, Primo, the seasonal 0KM Bungalow takes its name from “zero kilometer,” a concept that arose in Italy to describe food prepared and eaten close to its source. That locavore ethos underlies ever ything at Primo—whose Italian-leaning menu features many ingredients raised or grown just steps from the restaurant—and explains its enduring success, more than two decades on. primorestaurant.com

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The Harraseeket Inn ~Freeport

Maine’s Premier Hotel~

EDITORS’ PICKS: WESTERN MAINE BEAR MOUNTAIN INN WATERFORD

After buying this 25-acre lakefront property in 2017, Brian and Julie Sullivan overhauled it from top to bottom to create a fairy-tale destination for weddings and a heavenly retreat for the rest of us. Top New England designer Joanne Palmisano turned formerly dated interiors into hip, minimalist, Instagram-worthy spaces; in the nine rooms and suites, cozy cottage, and four-bedroom post-and-beam guesthouse, perks range from water views to Jacuzzi tubs to f ireplaces. bearmtninn.com CURRIER’S FLYING SERVICE GREENVILLE

In a region made famous by its bush pilot culture, the late Roger Currier was one of the legends. Today, his family continues the business Currier founded, now with his chief protégé, Roger Paradise, at the helm. You’ve never seen the Moosehead region like this before. The big lake, surrounding waters, and some of Maine’s popular peaks (that’s Katahdin in the distance) all come into focus as you ride the air in one of Currier’s rare and beautifully restored Cessnas. curriersflyingservice.com LE MU EATS BETHEL

Word of mouth from hungry Sunday River skiers and foodies alike has propelled this Laotian-Southern hybrid from humble beginnings in 2018—as a little blue takeout shack next to Steam Mill Brewing—to a sitdown restaurant of its very own, opened late last year. The cult-favorite Angry Rooster sandwich (fried chicken with chili aioli) and superlative banh mi are still there, alongside elevated, dine-in-only new offerings like khao piek sen, a chicken soup swarming with thick and chewy hand-rolled tapioca-rice noodles. my-site-le-mu.square.site

This family-owned, 94-room luxury inn features two great restaurants, 23 fireplaces, an indoor heated pool and is fully handicapped accessible. Select pet-friendly rooms available. Walk to the best shopping on the Maine coast and the Amtrak Downeaster train station. Ask about our Yankee Getaway Package. Book direct for complimentary breakfast and afternoon tea.

162 Main Street • Freeport, ME 04032

800-342-6423 • www.harraseeketinn.com

“WHAT THIS IS WHAT WE W “ THIS IS WHAT “ THIS IS WE “THISWEISCAME WHATTOWEMAINE FO “THIS IS WHAT CAME TO.”MAIN CAME TOFOR MAINE FOR .” CAME TO MAINE FOR .” CAME TO MAINE “THIS IS WHAT WE CAME TO MAINE FOR.” MEETINGS

WEDDINGS

OCCASIONS TO 250 PEOPLE

OPEN ALL YEAR

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MAINE MINERAL & GEM MUSEUM BETHEL

Despite a rocky start (it debuted a few months before the shutdown, then suffered a bout of f looding after reopening), this 15,000-square-foot museum has established itself as one of Maine’s most fascinating attractions. At the core of its assemblage of treasures dug out of the earth is the Perham Collection, accumulated by a century-old Maine rock shop. Here you will also discover a world-class display of extraterrestrial minerals, including a 32-pound rock from Mars; an array of meteorites, and the five largest pieces of the moon to be found this side of, well, the moon. mainemineralmuseum.org

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MAINE MARITIME MUS AINE MARITIM MAINE MARITIME MM USEUM ARITIME •M USEUM Bath, MaineM • 207-443-1316 www.MaineMaritime MAINE MARITIMEM MAINE USEUM Bath, Maine • 207-443-1316 • www.Main Bath, Maine • 207-443-1316 • www.MaineMaritimeMuseum.org Bath, Maine • 207-443-1316 • www.MaineMaritimeMuseum.org Bath, MaineM • 207-443-1316 • www.MaineMaritimeMuseum.org AINE M ARITIME MAINE M ARITIME MUSEUM MUSEUM Bath, Maine • 207-443-1316 • www.MaineMaritimeMuseum.org Bath, Maine • 207-443-1316 • www.MaineMaritimeMuseum.org

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BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

RHODE ISLAND

AGUARDENTE PROVIDENCE

Both indoors and on the patio, the decor echoes the warmth of the Ag uardente brandy that inspired the restaurant’s name. Three partners—Victor Pereira, Magda León, and Natalia Paiva-Neves—bring the f lavors and culture of their native lands to the food, the spirits, and the art on the walls. Codf ish fritters, grilled octopus, and f lan hark to Portugal and the Azores; stuffed plantains, cactus tacos, and tres leches cake, to Guatemala and Mexico. It’s a whirlwind trip without a passport. aguardente.com FARM FRESH RHODE ISLAND PROVIDENCE

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round Saturday farmers’ market as well as the winter and spring iterations of the Sunday-afternoon Providence Flea, featuring local artwork and vintage f inds. The hallways here lead to small-business storefronts including Providence Brewing Company, Anchor Toffee, Tallulah’s Taqueria, Ocean State Pepper Co., and others, making it a massive—and massively welcome—food and drink mecca for the city. farmfreshri.org GRADUATE PROVIDENCE

KIN SOUTHERN TABLE + BAR PROVIDENCE

Taste the South right in the heart of Providence at Julia Broome’s soul food restaurant, opened in 2021, which dishes out big portions of catf ish, fried chicken wings, mac and cheese, and collard greens. Order the glittery conversation-piece cocktail called Black Girl Magic; admire the restaurant interior’s artwork, which pays homage to women of color; and enjoy music that gets guests grooving in their seats. kinpvd.com

PROVIDENCE

Formerly known as the Providence Biltmore, this rebranded and revamped c. 1922 Art Deco hotel preserves its past while welcoming the future. The lobby’s focal point—a vibrant portrait of the late Vogue fashion editor André Leon Talley—sets the tone for the over-the-top style of the hotel’s luxury spa, the Poindexter Café, and the sports-inspired Reiners Bar and Game Room, where amenities include two Topgolf Swing Suites. graduatehotels.com/providence

NARRAGANSETT BREWERY PROVIDENCE

No beer represents Rhode Island better than ’Gansett—and now the brewery finally has its own waterfront home in Providence. The c. 1890 brewery that was originally located in Cranston shut down in 1981, and brewing operations moved to New York. Recently, some boutique craft ’Gansett brews were produced locally at The Guild in Pawtucket, but the brewery’s full return didn’t happen until

R AY M O N D F O R B E S L LC /S TO C K S Y (CO L L E GE H I L L , P ROV I D EN C E )

EDITORS’ PICKS: PROVIDENCE

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sfogliatelle, cakes, and more, with the original owner’s daughter, Carol Gaeta, coming out of retirement to manage things behind the scenes. facebook.com/scialobrosbakery

ROGER WILLIAMS PARK

WATERFIRE

PROVIDENCE

With a first-class zoo, botanical center, and natural history museum and planetarium— plus a carousel, bike park, paddle boats, and walking trails—this 427-acre urban oasis has no shortage of features to draw people in. It’s getting a new one anyway: This year will see the debut of a brilliantly colored gateway and visitor center on Broad Street, with picnic and play areas and concessions, a result of formerly blighted lots being turned into a celebratory introduction to the city’s largest park. rwpconservancy.org

New England’s most mesmerizing public art installation has reignited this year with its first full series of May-through-November lightings since 2019. Sculptor Barnaby Evans’s masterwork is much more than the sum of its 80-plus bonf ires, whose lights shimmer over the rivers in WaterPlace Park as they dance to an ever-evolving soundtrack. WaterFire fuels Providence’s arts scene and fosters a sense of belonging for everyone drawn to the sight. waterfire.org

SCIALO BROTHERS BAKERY PROVIDENCE

When Scialo Brothers—a fixture of Providence’s Italian neighborhood, Federal Hill, since 1916—closed during the pandemic, many locals thought it was gone for good. But a year later, a mystery group of investors brought the historic brick ovens back to life, once again turning out fresh bread, zeppole,

EDITORS’ PICKS: GREATER NEWPORT BRENTON HOTEL NEWPORT

Newport’s picture-ready harbor got the hotel it deserved when this boutique beauty opened in 2020. Located just steps from the water, the Brenton’s 57 cozy but upscale rooms and

suites include many that are oriented to the sea. The hotel’s own Hinckley yacht means guests can do more than just take in pretty sights from land, and the rooftop bar offers the perfect place from which to watch the sun set over the harbor. brentonhotel.com THE CAFÉ AT THE CHANLER NEWPORT

If touring the Gilded Age grandeur of the Newport Mansions has left you with a serious case of FOMO, head straight to The Café at The Chanler, a posh hotel eatery on the doorstep of the Cliff Walk that lives up to its refined environs. Salty breezes caress the covered veranda, while f loorto-ceiling windows ensure that indoor diners don’t miss out on the multimilliondollar views. One of two dining venues at The Chanler at Cliff Walk (the other being the fine-dining spot Cara), this is the more causal option, and the perfect setting in which to sip French pear martinis and watch the world saunter by. thechanler.com GIUSTO NEWPORT

Fun and elegance go hand in hand at the Hammetts Hotel’s restaurant. A European

It’s time for your #blockislandvacation ISLAND IMAGE: ROSS DRAPER PHOTOGRAPHY

R AY M O N D F O R B E S L LC /S TO C K S Y (CO L L E GE H I L L , P ROV I D EN C E )

last year. Cambridge Brewing Co. alum Lee Lord serves as head brewer, leading her team in crafting ’Gansett’s IPAs, pilsners, and sours. narragansettbeer.com

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RHODE ISLAND

feel pervades the interior decor as well as the outdoor-cafe scene on the large L-shaped deck overlooking the sailboats in Newport Harbor. Inventive twists on Italian favorites include calamari in squid-ink tempura batter and a meatball with a soft-boiled egg inside. Expect seasonal and local dishes and brews, and wines from organic Italian vineyards, many of them headed up by women. Giusto! (Translation: “Just right!”) giustonewport.com GREEN ANIMALS PORTSMOUTH

Only the grounds have reopened at the most whimsical of the Newport Mansions properties, and that’s more than OK, since Green Animals’ collection of more than 80 towering topiaries has always been its draw. Anticipation is growing faster than boxwood for the announcement of this summer’s new art installation on the flowering, waterside property, where the elephant, giraffe, unicorn, and other meticulously clipped creatures have been nurtured as living art for more than a century. newportmansions.org GROUNDSWELL TIVERTON

Opened in 2020 in historic Tiverton Four Cor-

ners, in the space formerly occupied by the longtime local eatery Provender, Groundswell is actually two crowd-pleasing attractions in one. The picture-perfect home and garden shop is stocked with uncommon goods to inspire indoor and outdoor spaces, while the bakery and café attracts sweet tooths with made-from-scratch pastries, doughnuts, and croissants. Salads and sandwiches can be taken to go, or enjoyed in the café or on the sprawling landscaped patio punctuated by Adirondack chairs. groundswellcafegarden.com HOTEL VIKING NEWPORT

If you’ve been hooked by the new HBO series The Gilded Age, you know Newport was famed as the summer playground of America’s elite during the show’s namesake era. Discover a modern reimagining of that oldschool luxury at the Hotel Viking: Perched atop Historic Hill, it was financed in part by a Vanderbilt when it opened in 1926 as Newport’s f irst grand hotel. It’s been recently remodeled and boasts new enticements such as Spa Fjör, anchored by a 12-by-7-foot wall of Himalayan sea salt, and indoor poolside cabanas. Meanwhile, the Top of Newport— the rooftop bar marking the highest point in

the City by the Sea—lets you soak up coastal vibes and panoramic views. hotelviking.com JAMESTOWN ARTS CENTER JAMESTOWN

Bringing compelling exhibits, performances, and events to Conanicut Island year-round, this arts and cultural hub might fly under the radar of most Newport visitors, but it’s worth seeking out, and especially so this year: From July until October, its creative inf luence on the community will be everywhere you look, as art installations take root at a dozen locations across the island for the Outdoor Arts Biennial. jamestownartcenter.org THE VANDERBILT NEWPORT

After touring the Breakers and Marble House, tuck yourself in at Newport’s only Vanderbilt mansion that welcomes overnight guests. The 1909 Georgian originally built for scandal-prone playboy Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt has been richly restyled for your arrival: Indoor and outdoor dining concepts have also been refreshed, and new guest experiences promise to take you inside the world of a furniture artisan, shipbuilder, or oyster farmer. aubergeresorts.com/vanderbilt

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EDITORS’ PICKS: SOUTH COUNTY & BLOCK ISLAND BLOCK ISLAND BEACH HOUSE

The Newport Home of Doris Duke

BLOCK ISLAND

A top-to-bottom polishing and rebranding by new owner Lark Hotels has solidif ied the former Surf Hotel as the place to be on “the Block.” Though set in a Victorian-era structure, the island’s only beachfront lodging now embodies surf-shack style with a contemporary edge. Also folded into BIBH is the recently acquired Gables, a property across the street that features a newly built in-ground swimming pool and 16 spacious rooms and suites that are ideal for families or groups. blockislandbeachhouse.com DAVE’S COFFEE CHARLESTOWN

This coastal coffee oasis (freshly roasted, certif ied organic) has seasonal lattes and palm-sized muff ins, cookies, and scones (scratch-made). Warm weather urges Dave’s Coffee habitués (ensconced in a tiny café or the eclectic boutique, Galapagos) to move outside. Customers can choose wrought-iron chairs or picnic tables that dot the lawn and relax near a small waterfall, under a pergola, overlooking a pond in one direction or Highway 1 and Dave’s signature vintage delivery truck in the other. facebook.com/davescoffee

680 Bellevue Avenue Newport, RI 401–847–8344

newportrestoration.org/roughpoint

Free parking on-site Wheelchair accessible

MATUNUCK OYSTER BAR SOUTH KINGSTOWN

Soak in the rose-and-gold sunsets from dining decks on three f loors, overlooking the surf of Block Island Sound and the egretdotted estuary from which the restaurant’s oysters are farmed. Chefs are as careful with Matunuck Oyster Bar’s homegrown organic veggies as with its seafood: fresh-shucked oysters, oyster stew, and oysters Rockefeller, plus steamers, lobsters, and Point Judith calamari. The welcoming staff follows the lead of their boss, oyster farmer/restaurateur Perry Raso, who often makes the rounds with personal greetings. rhodyoysters.com SHEPHERD’S RUN SOUTH KINGSTOWN

This 1933 summer residence and former convent and boarding school has been transformed into a stunning mansion-based winery, hotel, and event venue. Sip estatefinished wines in the elegant tasting room or on the grounds, where you can bring a picnic to pair with f lights. For a more indepth experience, book one of the mansion’s 10 guest rooms (two-night minimum); opt for the signature suite, and relax on your own private balcony overlooking the vineyard itself. shepherds.run

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BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

CONNECTICUT

ARETHUSA FARM DAIRY AND CAFÉ WEST HARTFORD

The Litchfield farm famous for pampering cows (its “ladies” sleep on mattresses) has opened its first dairy shop and café under one roof in energetic West Hartford Center. Get your spoon stuck in creamy, breadcrumbtopped mac and cheese; assemble provisions for a picnic; wash down cookies with milk that tastes like childhood. You’re stronger than most if you can resist cloudlike scoops of butterfat-rich ice cream in homemade waffle cones. Choose a classic like maple walnut or a seasonal selection like sour cherry chocolate chunk. arethusafarm.com/west-hartford CAMACHO GARAGE NEW HAVEN

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has been the culinary centerpiece of New Haven’s Westville neighborhood since it opened in 2020. Outf itted to evoke the Tijuana auto repair shop where chef Arturo FrancoCamacho’s dad whipped up remarkable fare on a Magic Chef camper stove, the menu’s enchantments include dip-and-devour tacos de birria and queso flameado, a bubbling cauldron of cheese studded with poblanos, mushrooms, and your choice of protein. camachogarage.com CRÊPES CHOUPETTE & L’ÉPICERIE CHOUPETTE NEW HAVEN

Launched in 2014 with a tricycle-pulled crêpe cart, Frenchman Adil Chokairy’s empire is not so petite anymore. Now, you can salivate as savory buckwheat crêpes or whole wheat, dessert-y sweet selections are brought to steamy life in his atmospheric crêperie, then continue your Parisian immersion at L’épicerie Choupette, opened next door in 2020. This market stocked with puréed chestnuts and duck rillettes doubles as an intimate spot for fondue or oozy raclette and French wine. crepeschoupette.com

HILL-STEAD MUSEUM FARMINGTON

What would Theodate do? The aesthetic sense of one of America’s first female architects, Theodate Pope Riddle, was constantly assessed as barns were transformed into Hill-Stead’s 7,000-square-foot visitors center, unveiled in 2021. The facility allows for even more arts programming at the historic site, which preserves not only the 1901 family home that she designed but also its French Impressionist masterpieces. There’s no charge to view the visitors center exhibits, nor to explore the 152 acres of surrounding gardens, woodlands, and sheep pastures. hillstead.org PARKVILLE MARKET HARTFORD

With options to satisfy everyone (even if it’s just you who can’t seem to choose among lobster rolls, poke, pho, barbecue, carnival treats, etc.), Connecticut’s first food hall is a tantalizing destination. This 2020 addition to the capital city’s dining scene has more than 20 food vendors, three bars, indoor and outdoor

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EDITORS’ PICKS: GREATER HARTFORD & NEW HAVEN

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seating, and a lineup of live music and meetand-mingle events. parkvillemarket.com

EDITORS’ PICKS: MYSTIC COAST

to-order cinnamon-sugar sourdough doughnut while it’s still warm. nanasct.com

SILAS W. ROBBINS HOUSE

MYSTIC SEAPORT MUSEUM MYSTIC

THE OYSTER CLUB/TREEHOUSE

WETHERSFIELD

Write your own feel-good script at this fabulously ornate Second Empire Victorian B&B, the filming location for the Hallmark Channel’s 2018 movie Christmas on Honeysuckle Lane. With just five rooms, the restored manse and its two acres of well-tended gardens are an intimate retreat a mere 10-minute stroll from shops, restaurants, and the colonial houses that make this town one of a growing number of Connecticut locales catching the eyes of romantic-movie producers. silaswrobbins.com WESTVILLE MUSIC BOWL NEW HAVEN

It’s the second summer of shows at this openair venue on the Yale campus. Gone are the legends who graced the court when this was the Connecticut Tennis Center; in their place are touring acts and cover bands that run the gamut of genres including prolific folk musician Andrew Bird and blues rockers the Tedeschi Trucks Band. If you’ve been hesitant to venture out, this 12,000-seat arena may be the place to make live music a part of your life again. westvillemusicbowl.com

MYSTIC

Its anchor attractions are timeless—artisaninhabited village shops, a planetarium, boat tours, and notable ships like the whaler Charles W. Morgan—yet America’s foremost maritime museum perpetually catches fresh wind in its sails. With expanded casual dining offerings and the May 28 unveiling of “Story Boats,” an exhibit derived from the museum’s incomparable cache of small watercraft, you’ll want to linger and allow the magnitude of vessels like the Analuisa, which carried 23 Cuban refugees toward freedom, sink in. mysticseaport.org

From takeout to meal kits, feeding f irst responders to farm dinners, the Oyster Club and its alfresco sister restaurant, Treehouse, have spent the past two years pivoting up a dust cloud. One constant: the exceptional quality of the local seafood, meats, and produce that executive chef James Wayman and team turn into fan favorites like roasted oysters, cured tuna charcuterie, house-made pastas, and one fabulous burger. oysterclubct.com

NANA’S BAKERY & PIZZA MYSTIC

You won’t be able to resist clambering inside the USS Nautilus, which has returned to its museum-side pier following the most significant refurbishment since the engineering wonder became a floating attraction. As you wriggle through tight spaces below the deck of the North Pole–traversing, world’s-first nuclear-powered submarine, you’ll appreciate the heroism of the U.S. Navy’s sub force, dubbed the “Silent Service.” Your smartphone’s all you need for immersive new augmented reality experiences that bring the free

It’s no wonder this out-of-the-way newcomer attracts a steady stream of foodies to its handful of waterside tables. Masterminded by top Connecticut chef James Wayman, Nana’s turns simple comfort foods into revelations. With its slow-fermented sourdough crust made from house-milled grains, the pizza is so chewy, tangy, and so satisfying that it’s knocking New Haven–style pizzas off their pedestal. Take bakery treats to go, but polish off a made-

SUBMARINE FORCE LIBRARY & MUSEUM GROTON

Plan Your Seaside Escape

DIANE DIEDERICH PHOTOGR APHY (WEST CORNWALL COVERED BRIDGE)

at Saybrook.com

2 Bridge Street, Old Saybrook, CT. 06475 (860)395-2000 | SAYBROOK.COM

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CONNECTICUT

museum’s indoor exhibits to life. ussnautilus.org THE WHALER’S INN MYSTIC

A crisp, coastal aesthetic unifies 45 rooms spread across five buildings at Mystic’s bestlocated hotel. You’re a 15-minute walk to Mystic Seaport and even closer to downtown’s shops and scene-y restaurants. And since the 2020 opening of the Shipwright’s Daughter, a superlative meal can be had right on-site. Chef David Standridge left two Michelin stars behind in NYC but brings his big-city sensibilities to a menu that changes with the tides. His deft touch turns the local harvest into revelatory cuisine. whalersinnmystic.com WHITECREST EATERY STONINGTON

Imagine opening a restaurant inside a sprawling 19th-century mill in mid-2019—with thrifted china. Picture it, three unimaginable years later, a thriving dinner and weekend brunch destination known to an ever-expanding circle of foodies. You’ll intuit the passion and energy that Johan Jensen and Abbey Hemmann have poured into their venture at the Velvet Mill, where they’re surrounded by creative, supportive small busi-

nesses. Thanks to inventive yet approachable menus that showcase hyperlocal ingredients, those mismatched thrifted plates hold some of this region’s best dishes. whitecresteatery.com

EDITORS’ PICKS:

WESTERN CONNECTICUT BANTAM BREAD CO. BANTAM

Tiny Bantam has emerged from the shadow of neighboring Litchfield on the strength of its extraordinary food scene, and Bantam Bread was there at the start. Niles Golovin and Susie Uruburu began their business in the mid-’90s and still earn raves for their crackling sourdoughs, tarts, yeast-raised biscuits, and beloved “dirt bomb” muffins. bantambread.com

There’s a new sculpture garden. New galleries. New restaurant. New museum store. New community spaces. Adjust your radar accordingly. brucemuseum.org THE MARITIME AQUARIUM NORWALK

Although a bridge replacement project chomped a megalodon-sized bite out of Connecticut’s second-largest family attraction, this home to somersaulting otters and pettable stingrays has gained more than it’s lost, thanks to $40 million in state reinvestment. The harbor seals’ habitat is seven-plus times larger. The IMAX-replacing 4D Theater is a rush for the senses. And interactivity abounds, whether you cruise Long Island Sound aboard a research vessel or “sketch and release” your own marine creature into the digital depths. maritimeaquarium.org

BRUCE MUSEUM GREENWICH

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Sometimes bigger is better. For more than a century, the Bruce has had a well-deserved reputation as a surprising, under-the-radar gem spanning art, science, and natural history. Now, a three-story, 43,000-square-foot addition has doubled the museum space (and more than tripled the space for science exhibits).

WASHINGTON

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May 21 – Sept 18 Dana Sherwood: Animal Appetites & Other Encounters in Wildness

The historic Mayflower Inn has undergone a rebuild so comprehensive that it was named one of Travel & Leisure’s best new hotels of 2021. Redesigned interiors highlight New England country charm, but the changes are more than skin-deep: Award-winning chefin-residence April Bloomfield has amplified the food experience with local ingredients and artistic f lair, while a partnership with New York–based holistic center The Well has multiplied the spa and fitness offerings. Still, the core appeal here has remained the same since the 1800s: luxury, comfort, escape. aubergeresorts.com/mayflower THE PO CAFÉ WASHINGTON

A fresh, from-scratch lineup mixes virtuous (acai bowls, poke salads, local-yogurt parfaits) with sinful (“Po Chip” cookies laden with dark chocolate morsels and crumbled potato chips) as it buoys the comeback of a town landmark that chef-owner Maggie Colangelo took over in 2020. And there’s more good stuff to come, like “The OutPOst,” a seasonal second location on Lake Waramaug with food delivery (by boat!) to private docks and local beaches. sites.google.com/view/meetyouatthepo SPRING HILL VINEYARDS NEW PRESTON

96 Lyme Street, Old Lyme, CT Exit 70 off of I-95 FlorenceGriswoldMuseum.org • 860.434.5542

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Venture off Connecticut’s Wine Trail to this 18th-century farm, reimagined as a cultural hub and the most alluring of vineyards by Stephanie and Tim Ingrassia, movers and shakers on the Brooklyn arts scene. Wines made with Marquette grapes, which thrive in this microclimate, are the ones to try before delighting in photo ops with installations like Nicole Eisenman’s enormous sculptures and a wondrously transformed grain silo. springhillvineyards.com

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/22/22 12:23 PM

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Everybody Starts Somewhere (Continued from p. 96) Older sister Claire, who years later now a CBS announcer. A solid golfer, described this weekend as the social a past winner in some of those celebmedia manager for Golf Digest, took rity tournaments, he always talked notes. Dustin won the long drive about the possibility of playing profescontest in f lip-f lops. Dustin played sional golf. He played in the Northbasketball in the driveway. Dustin east in 2019, at 39 years old, twice the emptied out his golf bag to clear out age of some of his opponents. old granola bars when he heard B was “I’ve always said that the kid playallergic to peanuts. Dustin celebrated ing quarterback for the high school his 22nd birthday with a cake Claire’s team on Friday night has the same mom made. Oh, yes, and Dustin went feelings that I had [with the Cowboys] to the driving range. on a Sunday afternoon,” he said. “That Because of its small footprint, kid feels the importance of it, the butWannamoisett doesn’t have a full driv- terflies. Here it’s the same thing. They ing range, its members asked to hit want to get it in the hole as quickly as only irons, so Claire’s they can to try and mother took their go on to become the Dylan’s 67 at the g uest and Tim to player they want to end left him at the nearby Atlantic be someday.” Driving Range. It The results were two-under for the was a moment. not good for Romo. day, 11-under for He did not become “Dustin was wearing athletic clothes,” the player he wanted the tournament, Claire wrote for Golf to be. He shot 71, and with a new Digest. “Except for then 79 on the first blue blazer for that t w o d a y s of t h e his height, no one batted an eye when then picture on the wall. tournament, he stepp ed up to dropped out on the the mats—until he third day after 15 started hitting.” Tim remembers peo- holes, citing a back injury. He was 11 ple gathering around them and watch- strokes over par, last in the field when ing Johnson’s swing. “They had no idea he withdrew. who he was, but soon realized he was The tournament was not held in something special.” 2020 due to Covid-19 considerations. Famous winners of the tournament were players such as John Cook dy l a n mena n te , t he 2021 (1978 and 1979), Hal Sutton (1980), leader, did not stay in a member’s David Duval (1992), Notah Begay III house. He and his father talked about (1995), Luke Donald (2000 and 2001), doing it, but felt uneasy with the linAnthony Kim (2004), and Collin gering concerns about the virus. They Morikawa (2017). More famous, just checked into the Hilton Garden Inn as famous, were players who did not in Providence, visited friends, walked win. Everybody played. Jordan Spieth. around the Brown campus, took a Patrick Reed. Jim Fur yk . Justin visit to the Titleist factory in AcushThomas. Webb Simpson. Justin Rose. net, Massachusetts, a trip a lot of the Brooks Koepka. Everybody. Jason golfers made. Noah Norton followed the tradiDay finished last. Everybody. Two of Jack Nicklaus’s sons played. Raymond tional route. He and two of his GeorFloyd’s son played. Lexi Thompson’s gia Tech teammates set up shop across the street from the course in the home brother. Everybody. Even a famous figure from another of Chris Holzwarth and his wife, sport altogether: Tony Romo, the for- Patti. This was Noah’s third trip to mer Dallas Cowboys quarterback, the Northeast and his third time with NEWENGLAND.COM

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the Holzwarths. His teammates were rookies. “I put them in the basement, three beds down there” Patti said. “Laid in a lot of snacks. They can watch television, play basketball in the driveway, whatever. They can enter and exit through the bulkhead. Do whatever they want.” The Holz warths’ son, R io, a senior-to-be at Providence College, a member of the golf team, was 21, pretty much the same age as the three visitors. He had an off-campus apartment in Providence. The visitors spent the bulk of their time there. Rio was now the social chairman. “He’s grown up with this tournament,” said his father, Chris. “We’ve had players stay with us for a number of years. Morikawa stayed with us. Very nice. Quiet. Serious. Rio, who was in high school, caddied for him when he won. Rio’s grown up with all of this, made a lot of friends. We used to have to do more with the kids, but

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now it pretty much runs itself. They go and hang out with Rio.” R io was the caddy this time around for Noah. There was a hope that maybe he could bring the same good luck that he brought for Morikawa. One stroke off the lead? There were possibilities on this final day. Had to be. Or maybe not. Noah bogeyed the f irst hole. Dylan parred. Noah bogeyed the second hole. Dylan parred. Noah birdied the 137-yard par-three third, but bogeyed the fourth and the sixth and then the seventh and eighth holes. Dylan parred all of them, 10 pars in a row to start his round. The head-tohead match in the final pairing was done, finished. D ylan was a metronome. He clicked through the problems presented at each hole with precision. His drives landed on fairways. His approach shots landed on the green. His first putts finished off birdies on 11 and 13. His second putts on every other hole finished off pars. His 67 at the end left him at two-under for the day, 11-under for the tournament, and with a new blue blazer for that picture on the wall. Noah finished with a 72, tied for eighth place. “This is important for me,” Dylan said. “I finished second in four tournaments this year. In three of them I lost in playoffs for the championship. I was nervous all day. I wanted to win.” “I spoke only when he asked me questions,” said his father/caddy. “He did all this on his own.” Hit the white ball. Walk down the perfect green grass. Hit the white ball again. The 60th Northeast Amateur will be held this year at Wannamoisett from June 20 to June 25. This will be a week after the U.S. Open is held at the Country Club in Brookline, Massachusetts, featuring the best professional golfers in the world, rich and famous now, but back in New England, not so far from where their trip began. Ever ybody has to start somewhere. MAY | JUNE 2022

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A Homesteader’s Tool Kit In rural Vermont, happiness can be found in hard work with a trusty friend. ILLUSTR ATION BY

TOM H AUGOM AT

y favorite tool is a sixfoot-long rock bar that our family has owned for better than a quarter century. It’s made of solid steel, about an inch and a half in diameter, and has a chisel tip for dislodging rocks and busting through soil that’s a bit frozen. The latter is important, because busting through soil that’s a bit frozen is exactly what happens when one procrastinates on one’s digging projects until the eve of a snowstorm in the middle of December. (Not that I’ve ever done that, mind you, but it’s good to be prepared.) I’ve used that rock bar to assist in digging holes for concrete piers, to loosen the soil for 162 |

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sharpened fence posts, and to chisel ice from the wide, flat rock that serves as the front step to our home. Actually, my favorite tool is the 12-pound sledgehammer we’ve owned for almost as long as we’ve had that rock bar. I think it’s on its third handle, but I might be wrong about that. Could be the fourth. I’ve used the sledge for driving sharpened fence posts into the soil I’ve loosened with my beloved rock bar (now relegated to my second-favorite tool). I’ve also used it for slamming the ends of walls I’m trying to knock into square, and for freeing rims that have rusted onto the hub assemblies that hold them. Like the rock bar, our sledge

is a good, honest piece of equipment: no moving parts, not much to break other than the handle, which is easily replaced at modest cost and effort. Plus, you can’t use a sledge without using your body in ways that will in short order result in the beading of sweat upon your brow, and in slightly longer order result in delayed-onset muscle soreness. Like I said, an honest tool. Wait. Scratch that. Because my favorite tool might be our right-angle grinder, which I’ve pressed into service for cutting rebar and roofing metal, as well as for putting a crude edge on the battered blade of our bush hog. I used it to cut the spare tire down from underneath the bed of our truck (in what galaxy do those assemblies actually work when you most need them?!? Certainly not the one I live in), and I used it to cut the length of flat steel stock that I then used to construct a mount for the new seat I bought for the tractor, which I was vexed to discover didn’t fit the stock mount. I’ve used it for about half a million other things, too, but we’ve got only so much time together, so I’ll stop now. Hmm... come to think of it, I suppose my favorite tool is our Fiskars spade. I like the Fiskars because it’s got a metal handle that’s honestly not much fun to hold but which is guaranteed for life—a guarantee that I have yet to test, because the darn thing has proven indestructible. In addition to using our spade (actually, we own two matching ones) for digging holes, I’ve also used it to roll logs, scoop cat poop out of NEWENGLAND.COM

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the yard come spring (disgusting, but true), and shovel ungodly quantities of crushed stone for the betterment of our driveway. Again: a good, honest tool that can quickly raise beaded sweat and a blister or two. Now that I’ve got that spade on my mind, I’m realizing that my favorite tool is probably my Fiskars X27 splitting axe. (If all this mention of Fiskars causes you to think that perhaps I’m getting kickbacks, I assure that I’m not. However, should anyone from Fiskars be reading this and would like to open negotiations with my agent, please do let me know, so I can get an agent for you to negotiate with.) Like the spade, my X27 has a lifetime guarantee, which, like the spade, I’ve yet to test, despite having used it to split upward of 75 cords of hardwood over the past dozen years or so, and running over the handle with the tractor at least twice. Yeah. I love that axe. Wait ! The tractor! Ours is a Kubota, with a 51-horsepower, fivecylinder motor (arguably the best motor Kubota ever made, according to me) and a loader fitted with a high-capacity bucket that’s just the ticket for moving snow and firewood, which is handy because I use the tractor primarily for snow removal and firewood logging. That said, my most favorite tractor-related task by a long shot is the extraction of hapless vehicles from the ditches and snowbanks surrounding our home. Unless it’s our hapless vehicle. It just occurred to me that perhaps our wood stove could be considered a tool, and so, there’s little question but that would be my most favorite tool ever. Most used, too. Our wood stove is a Heartland Oval cookstove. It’s the primary (OK, only) source of heat for our small home, as well as the primary (OK, only) cooking surface in our house. So it gets fired pretty much every day, except during the doggiest dog days of summer, when we cook outdoors using one of those two-burner propane camp stoves upon which achieving a reliable simmer is MAY | JUNE 2022

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something approaching high art. I honestly don’t know what I’d do without our cookstove (other than be cold and hungry, I mean). I love every bit of it, and every bit of the process of using it, and (crucially) even the process of harvesting the wood necessary to feed its insatiable appetite. My chainsaw! Oh. Now that has to be my favorite tool, embodying as it does an almost sublime medley of risk, skill, noise, exertion, and unparalleled productivity. I own two saws, which is about two saws shy of what I’d like to own, but hey: Sometimes you just have to make do. My primary saw is a Dolmar 6400; it’s a bit big and unwieldy, but it compensates with gobs of power and an overall sense of invincibility. I bought it used about a decade ago, and I’ve had to fix essentially nothing in the intervening years. Our small saw is a Husqvarna 346xp, which belongs in the dictionary under the phrase They don’t make ’em like

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