The tale of Montbrison Moingt & Champdieu by Loire Forez Tourisme

Region of Art and History of Forez Visitorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide

The tale of Montbrison Moingt

County capital of the Forez

With the Tourist Information centre Explore the historic heritage of Montbrison Moingt Information Reservations Maison du tourisme de Montbrison Moingt

During the school holidays (except Christmas holidays), the Tourist Information centre offers guided visits of the historic centre of Montbrison. The themes of the tours differ throughout the year and enable you to go beyond the limits of this tour. Follow the guide …… Go with him through the doors of old town residences or convents and prepare for surprising discoveries in interior courtyards and chapels !

Visits possible with an audio guide

1, place Eugène Baune Tél. 04 77 96 08 69 Email : contact@loireforez.com

All through the year, the Tourist Information centre provides self-descriptive visits of the historic centres of Montbrison Moingt, Champdieu, Saint-Just Saint-Rambert et Saint-Marcellin-en-Forez, created by Braille and Culture for accompanied visually-impaired people. The audio guides as well as the booklet in Braille, in large print and raised relief, are available on loan in our tourist centres.

Open

Find the programme of our guided visits on www.visitesloireforez.com

July and August • from Monday to Saturday from 9h to 12h and 14h to 18h • Sunday From 14h to 18h Rest of the year : • from Monday to Friday from 9h30 to 12h30 and 13h30 to 17h30 • Saturday from 9h to 12h30 and from 14h to 18h

With the Tourist Information centre Stay in Loire Forez

Whether in our tourist centre or on our web sites, you can find all the information necessary to organise your stay in Loire Forez and benefit from advice from our staff.

www.loireforez.com www.loireforez.eu www.loireforez.mobi Our web sites

Produced with the financial support of

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Old college of the Oratoriens 14 Town residence

of Vazelhes 15 Honoré d’Urfé square

16 Allard museum 17 Allard garden 18 Town hall

Old convent of the Cordeliers Tourist information office Tour

Montbrison, historic centre, general view of the hill of the Calvary cross. On the left can be seen the bell-tower of the church of Saint-Pierre as well as the dome of the old Courthouse

Montbrison, county capital Montbrison, a dynamic town of 16 000 inhabitants, is one of the richest historic communes of the department. Former capital of the Forez for seven centuries, its history unravels along its streets and in the important buildings which today form part of an Architectural and historical heritage development area.

Origins of the town The history of the county of Forez and Montbrison, its capital, goes back to the Middle Ages. At the beginning of the 11th century, the Forez was integrated into the county of Lyon and did not yet correspond to a political entity. It constituted a border zone which was bitterly disputed between the German Empire and the kingdom of France. The counts of Lyon quickly realised that their power was jeopardized by the increasing domination of the Church. After several decades of often violent conflicts, Guy II, count of Lyon and Forez, and the archbishop of Lyon, Guichard, reached an agreement in 1137. Called Permutatio, it instigated

the split of the county of Lyon into 2 distinct entities : on one side the town of Lyon and the adjoining lands remained in the possession of the archbishop and on the other side, the count of Forez accepted to restrict his power to the region situated between the mounts of Lyon and Auvergne. The Forez thus became an independent autonomous state. Montbrison became the capital and hence began the most prosperous period of its history. This was an age of gold which lasted for nearly two centuries, under the reign of the “House of Albon”, or “Viennois”. The successors of Guy II pacified, consolidated and developed their county, strengthening their authority by turning towards the kingdom

Semi aerial view of the Calvary at Montbrison Photo © Ville de Montbrison/MN Paliard

of France. All the members of the House of Albon remained very attached to Montbrison where they most often resided. The town was the official seat of their administration, notably for taxation and the judiciary system, and played a major military role. In the 13th and 14th centuries, the counts of Forez, and in particular Guy IV (1196-1241) and Jean 1er (1276-1333) undertook much construction work and greatly contributed to the extension and improvement of the town in what was then a favourable economic context. The works of art which date from that period and still visible today are the Collegiate church of Notre-Dame d’Espérance and the Heraldic hall of the Diana.

Montbrison in 1732 - Archives

Montbrison from 1372 to the present In 1372, the direct lineage of the “House of Albon” died out. By matrimonial alliance, the county of Forez passed into the hands of Louis II, Duke of Bourbon. It became part of the domain of the lords of Bourbon, the capital of which was Moulins. The political role of Montbrison gradually declined. On the death of Charles III of Bourbon in 1527, a duke who had no descendants, Forez and Boubonnais were united to the kingdom of France by king François 1er. In 1542, the Forez was merged with the Lyonnais and the

Beaujolais to form the generality of Lyon. It was during the French Revolution, in 1792, that Montbrison again acquired an important administrative function when it became the seat of the Prefecture of the Loire up until 1856. However, the industrial revolution had

transformed Saint-Etienne into a major economic and demographic basin in the department and the emperor Napoleon III decided to transfer the Prefecture to that town. Today, Montbrison is a lively enterprising town with just under 16 000 inhabitants.

Coat of arms of the Count of Forez

The Collegiate church of Notre-Dame l’Espérance seen from the hill of the Calvary cross.

View of the chevet of the collegiate church.

The Collegiate church Notre-Dame-d’Espérance 1

Rue Notre-Dame

DEPARTURE OF THE TOUR Forecourt of the Collegiate church Notre-Dame d’Espérance, rue Notre-Dame

Expression of greatness Founded in 1223 “in honour of God and Blessed Mary still a Virgin”, the Collegiate church Notre-Dame de l’Espérance (Our Lady of Hope) was created by the single desire of one man, Count Guy IV of Forez(1196-1241). It was as much an act of piety as glorification of the dynasty and the church displays an architectural style fitting of a monument belonging to 3

the capital town. To serve his political ambition, the count of Forez used the fundamental principles of Gothic architecture, then a new style which originated in Ile-de-France : greater volumes reaching towards the heavens, mastery of forces, art of the line, light. The dimensions of the collegiate church (60m long, 33m wide, 20m high under the vault,) perfectly reflect the expression desired by the political and religious powers. Commenced in 1226, the work proved very costly and was subjected to the fluctuations of the economic

resources of the county as well as to the hazards of wars and epidemics. Construction was prolonged until the beginning of the 16th century. Towards the middle of the 14th century, the church took the name of Notre-Dame d’Espérance (Our Lady of Hope) in reference to a statue of the Virgin placed at that time in the choir. Its base was carved with the word “Espérance”,

motto of the Order of Chevalry of the Ecu d’Or, founded by Duke Louis II of Bourbon, who became count of Forez in 1372. NEXT Follow the rue Loÿs Papon around the church.

Guy IV Museum d’Allard, Montbrison

Guy IV, count of Forez Grandson of Count Guy ll, he controlled the Forez from 1206 to 1241. After being orphaned at an early age, he was educated by his uncle Renaud de Forez, archbishop of Lyon. At the beginning of his reign, he pacified the eastern border of the county and established a long period of peace during which he was able to reinforce his power. Under his reign, the collegiate church, the Convent of the Cordeliers, the second curtain wall of the castle situated at the summit of the town, were erected. Engaged in the 6th Crusade to the Holy Lands, Guy lV died on his way home near Otrante in Italy. According to his wishes, he was buried in the Collegiate church which still contains his tomb (lying statue) visible in the choir.

A monument but also an institution and a town quarter By founding the Collegiate church, Guy lV also created a religious institution, the Chapter which would last up until the Revolution. Thirteen canons (members of the clergy) directed by a dean, made up the Chapter. Its mission was to manage the resources of the institution, organise religious life and teaching. After receiving instruction in the Chapter school, the pupils were often recruited in the county administration. . The dean exercised considerable authority over all the parishes in the town. The canons lived in houses standing around the Collegiate church, thus forming a quarter separated from the

town. The layout of this area around the church is still evident even though it now opens on to the city.

Exterior of the Collegiate church The whole edifice was built out of limestone from Ruffieu (Bugey), then from the 15th century onwards, out of granite. The west front was completed under the reign of the Dukes of Bourbon in the second half of the 15th century. Originally it was to have two bell-towers flanking the main door. Only one, on the north side, was built. A massive structure, it rises up to 42m, and is reinforced by protruding lateral buttresses which almost give it the appearance of a tower-keep. Inside, there are three bells dating from 1502,

1503 and 1820. The elegant portal, placed in front of the faรงade, is surmounted by five arches divided into recesses. These alas, have never been adorned with the statues they were intended to receive, due to

lack of money. Only a statue of the Virgin and Child graces the centre of the tympanum of the portal. Another doorway, situated on the north side, is preceded by a 14th century porch. The south door is more recent, (19th century). When going back a few paces, it is noticeable that the nave of the church is supported by flying buttresses anchored in powerful masonry blocks which emerge from the roofs of the lateral chapels added on later. These structures absorb the lateral thrust of the Gothic rib vaults used to cover the edifice and hence avoid the sideway collapse of the walls. NEXT Enter the church by the south door and go along to the apse (behind the high altar) 4

Detail of the nave The undulating effect of the columns can be seen from the aisles. Photo © Pays du Forez

It was from the top of the pulpit (19th c) that the priest addressed his instructions and teaching to the congregation. Photo © Pays du Forez

Interior of the church The plan of the church is similar to the cathedral Saint-Jean-de-Lyon. The polygonal apse and choir were erected at the beginning of the 13th century, and stand beyond the transept which opens on to chapels. The three-bay nave leads to the main portal. At the end of the Middle Ages, in the 15th century, lateral chapels were added in the south aisle. The Gothic vaults which cover the edifice are formed of diagonal crossed stone rib structures which intersect at a central carved keystone. These ribs concentrate the majority of the weight of the vault down on to the pillars which then transmit it to the floor. The most original feature of the church is 5

Detail of the sculptures of the high altar Here, the scene of the burial of Christ Photo © Pays du Forez The choir stalls, wooden seats with high backs which line each side of the choir, were reserved for members of the clergy. Photo © Pays du Forez

its architectural design. The semi-engaged columns attached to the pillars give an undulating rhythm to the nave. They are topped with capitals with a finely carved vegetal decoration.

Simplified chronological plan based on records of M. de Gourmay, architect, assistant to M. Grange-Chavanis A.C.M.H.

NEXT Walk around the interior of the church and go up the aisles.

The cross of Estiallet (early 17th century)

• The lying statue of Guy lV Situated at the rear of the apse, the sepulchre of Guy IV has not survived completely intact. It was originally placed in front of the choir, carried by eight weepers. Only the statue dated from the 14th century, restored many times, remains today. Guy IV is represented wearing on his head his count’s “barette” ; a sword decorated with the dolphin of Forez hangs from the leather baldric around his long robe. His feet rest on a lion, symbol of power. Two angels pass a cloth under his head, while others throw incense jars at his feet. Vandalised by protestants the 14th July 1562, the other tombs of counts were destroyed in 1792.

The lying statue of Guy lV

• Light « I am the light of the world ; he who follows me shall not walk in darkness but shall have the light of life ». The Gospel according the Saint John, 8, 12. In the 12th century, theologians told builders to open churches to the light, considered to be a manifestation of divinity. The large coloured stained glass windows of the choir and the nave should portray the image of Holy Jerusalem, decked with jewels. The medieval windows of the church have disappeared and were replaced in the 19th century during an important restoration campaign. The stained glass window located in the centre of the apse behind the altar is one of the most interesting. It represents the scene of the foundation of the collegiate

Detail of the central stained glass window of the apse which illustrates the act of foundation of the church by Guy lV, count of Forez.

church by Guy IV who is helping his son to place the stone of honour in the presence of the archbishop of Lyon and the bishop of Embrun. This same stone of honour engraved in Latin, is visible on the wall underneath the stained glass window. If you turn around and look at the end of the nave, above the large organ loft you can see an impressive rose-window with mainly blue and red glass panes decorated with alternating geometrical and vegetal motifs.

The stone of honour inscribed in Latin, placed by Guy lV, count of Forez, relates the inauguration of the collegiate church.

This stained glass window of the 19th century has three sections of illustrations

The technical challenge of stained glass Making maximum use of the possibility of piercing the walls, the Gothic builders took risks, particularly with regard to wind which is difficult to control. A gust of wind at 100 km an hour exerts a pressure of about 80kg per square metre. This explains why it was necessary to use a dense metallic framework of bars and finer rods to offer maximum resistance. 6

The Callinet organ, classed Historic Monument, is installed in a finely worked Neo-gothic loft out of limestone.

• The organ Instrumental music and chants were omnipresent in religious ceremonies. The organ first appeared in churches at the end of the Middle Ages and then came back into fashion in the 19th century with a much more powerful technical design. The organ in the church is installed in a flamboyant Gothic style loft made of Tournus stone and was made by the Organ-builder in Alsace called Callinet and inaugurated in 1842.

Storied stained-glass window 19th c. E. Dessert © Région Rhône-Alpes, General inventory of cultural heritage, 2004, A.D.A.G.P

• The treasure of the collegiate church Chasubles, gold and silver plate, reliquaries, crosses and banners belonging to brotherhoods statues and paintings, ceremonial objects are a witness of the renewal of religious possessions from the end of the 17th century to the beginning of the 19th century. An enterprising and active parish community accompanied the restoration campaigns throughout the 19th century. The Treasure reveals the creativity of the many different religious art enterprises of the time which produced such prodigious ceremonial decorations. Detail of the altar piece of the chapel of the Virgin signed Fabish, representing Saint Cécile, patron saint of musicians

Saint-George killing the dragon (painting 13th c) E. Dessert © Région Rhône-Alpes, General inventory of cultural heritage, 2005, A.D.A.G.P

• Sober refined decoration The walls and vaults would have been decorated with colourful paintings in the past. Although most of the painted plaster coatings have disappeared, there remains a representation of Saint Georges killing the dragon on the wall on the left of the south portal, as well as a trompe-l’oeil drawing of a floor on the wall of the apse. The cross of Estiallet, or cross of the saints (17th c, classed historic monument) fixed to the left-hand side of the altar, has saints carved on its shaft. The sculptures bear the trace of paint, showing how important colour was both in the interior and on the exterior of churches. In the first half of the 19th century, an important restoration campaign took place in the church following

Saint Aubrin, protecting the town of Montbrison E. Dessert © Région Rhône-Alpes, General inventory of cultural heritage, 2005, A.D.A.G.P

the degradations of the Revolutionary period. Furniture of refined artistic taste was ordered from talented artists in Lyon and installed in the church. The high altar and spectacular organ loft were designed by Bossan, who also planned the basilica church of Fourvières in Lyon. The pulpit is the work of the architects Benoît, father and son, Visconti and the sculptor Fonton. The iconography of the decoration is the classical theme of Christ and the four Evangelists. The choir stalls themselves, of a neo-gothic style, recall the positions of the canons of Notre-Dame in the part which was reserved for them. NEXT Go out of the same door and turn left along Florimond Robertet street.

Situated by the chevet of the church, the hall of the Diana possesses spectacular painted decoration.

Heraldry hall of the Diana 2

7, rue Florimond Robertet

NEXT If you wish, enter the Heraldry Hall of the Diana by the glass door situated to the right of the facade.

Salle Héraldique de la Diana 7, rue Florimond Robertet Infos : 04 77 96 01 10 Web : www.ladiana.com

Edified at the end of the 13th century, probably for the marriage of count John 1st of Forez to Alix of Viennois, the heraldry hall of the Diana has spectacular painted decoration. Nearly 1728 coats of arms adorn the Gothic coffered vault. Although they have not all been specifically identified, the noble families that they represent,

from the king of France to local nobility, offer us an instant picture of the diplomatic relations which the Count of Forez maintained within and outside his territory at the beginning of the 14th century. This magnificent hall was used for a long time for the state assemblies of the nobility of the Forez. François 1ier was a guest there in 1536. As royal heir of the county, he gave the hall to the Chapter of the collegiate church of Notre-Dame. Canons were solemnly invested there and occasionally entertaining events organised. The hall acquired the name Diana which was an alteration of the word decania (dean of the chapter).

Façade of the Diana

It was confiscated as National property in 1789 and put to various uses before being restored from 1863 to 1864 when it became the seat of the Historic and Archaeological society of Forez. The richly doted archives and the archaeological museum are in the Hall of the Diana. NEXT After going out of the Heraldic Hall of the Diana, turn right. Go alongside the chevet of the collegiate church to reach the quays of the Vizézy. Cross the river by the footbridge to reach the rue Tupinerie.

Representation of the Pastoral in the hall of the Diana French manuscripts in the British museum, BnF.

Alix de Viennois Detail of sculpted heads in a neo-medieval style on the 19th century façade of the Diana

John 1st of Forez ( detail of the facade)

John lst of Forez (1276 – 1333) John 1st, great grandson of Guy lV, was one of the most important counts of his lineage. His reign marked the height of the power of the county of Forez. In particular, he carried out vast reforms of his administration by creating the chamber of accounts in 1317 which was responsible for the control of the finances of the county. He was one of the close collaborators of king Philippe IV le Bel. 8

The old town, streets and quarters After leaving the area around the church, and crossing the river Vizézy, you are free to explore the old town which stretches from its shopping area, right up to the remains of the castle.

Maison Robertet (classified Historic Monument) ; Door dated 1587. The symetrical organisation of the house front was inspired by ornamental fantasies of the Renaissance. The Robertet family, installed in Montbrison since the 14th century, had several distinguished members : Jehan Robert (died in 1502) who was secretary to king Charles VIII et Florimond (1458-1527), his son who became successively treasurer of kings Charles VIII, Louis XII et François Ier.

14, rue Martin Bernard

Rue Martin Bernard

When arriving at rue Tupinerie, turn left and then take the first street on your right. The rue du Marché and then the rue Martin Bernard will lead you towards the upper town.

Rue Tupinerie In the Middle Ages, it was, with the neighbouring streets, the economic heart of the town, whereas the houses of important citizens and administrations were localised close to the county castle. This remains the most important shopping street of the town centre. The quays of the river Vizézy which runs alongside were built in 1884. Many bridges link the street to the church quarter. At the end of the 13th century, several activities were carried out on the riverside : fulling mills, blanching of hemp and tanneries. 9

Maison Papon, named after Jehan Papon, High Judge of Forez (1505 ou 1507 -1590). Although the façade has been modified and the windows enlarged, it sill conserves a gothic door with four centred arch, leading into an interior courtyard from where one of the highest stair turrets in the town is visible.

The dwellings of noble families which you will generally discover along the old streets, cover a large period from the end of the 15th century to the18th century. They are noticeable for their sober lines and refined decoration : moulded doors and windows, sculpted medallions etc. The house front on the street often dissimulates an ornamental interior courtyard.

12, rue du Marché

Rue du Marché Together with the rue Martin Bernard which immediately follows, the rue du Marché formed part of the route of the Great Path of the Forez which passed through the county from north to south, linking it to the fairs of Champagne and the ports of Languedoc via the south of the Massif Central. This was a very busy road which saw a consequential residential and commercial development of which the arcades on shops and houses provide the evidence. In the 17th century, the street was marked by the activity of the silk-weaving workshops installed on the ground floor of the houses.

N°25 : Detail of the ceiling of the drawing-room on the first floor. Called the house of Lions (HM), it dates from the Renaissance. The sturdy compartmented ground floor, surmounted by a row of lion heads, supports two floors above. The first floor has windows with crossed mullions, crowned with triangular or circircular pediments. It was built at the beginning of the 17th century by Pierre Henrys, brother of the judicial advisor Claude Henrys.

25, rue Martin Bernard

NEXT At the top of the rue Martin Bernard, take the rue Pasteur on your right. Go along the square of the same name and you will discover the façade of the old chapel of the Penitents on your right.

Rue Saint-Pierre This street used to be inhabited by magistrates and royal officers, members of the nobility of the sword and the robe. The hôtel de Vaugirard (14th – 15th century) belonged to a trading family in which the third generation acceded to the charge of royal councillor and crown attorney in the judicial district of Montbrison. The paved interior courtyard with a well and spiral staircase features overlying decoration of several different periods, from the end of the Middle Ages to the beginning of the Renaissance. This early Renaissance residence shows a new decorative style inspired by the castle of la Bâtie d’Urfé in Forez : unified ornamentation of the façade, windows with crossed mullions, ionic pilasters. The diversity of old doors in Montbrison is remarkable.

Chapel of the Penitents 6

Place des Pénitents

The facade of the chapel of the Penitents of Confolon (classed Historic Monument, 2nd and 3rd quarters 18th century) stands a little off the square. In addition to its architectural decoration terminating at the summit by a bell tower crowned by a polygonal bulb, the façade is adorned with a discreet sculpted ornamentation : foliage scrolls, small angels, garlands, palm leaves, medallions. Created at the end of the 13th century in Lyon by Saint Bonaventure, the brotherhood was revived during the Religious wars. The one in Montbrison was founded in 1591 by Anne d’Urfé, general lieutenant of the Forez and its vocation was to organise all forms of religious piety (services, processions) and charity. Today the chapel has become a theatre classified as a “regional stage”. NEXT Go back to the rue Martin Bernard. Turn right up the street and reach the following street, the rue Saint-Pierre.

NEXT Go back into the rue Saint-Pierre and pause to admire the facade of the old convent of the Visitation, then take the rue du Palais de Justice on your right.

Hôtel Vaugirard Hôtel Vaugirard detail

7, rue Saint-Pierre

13, rue Saint-Pierre

Here we have a late Renaissance door, flanked by grooved pilasters with Corinthian capitals holding up an entablature. The openwork tympanum allows air to pass through the alley.

Hôtel de Saint-Pulgent

Hôtel de Saint-Pulgent, corridor

Ramparts Calvary quarter NEXT (along the boulevard then the Montée des Visitadines)

Montbrison, town of convents In addition to its past public and administrative functions, Montbrison should also be remembered as a town of convents from the Middle Ages onwards. These increased in number during the 17th century due to the Catholic CounterReform movement which aimed to prevent the expansion of the protestant faith. The large body of energetic parish clergy was reinforced by new congregations and institutions which settled on the hill of the Calvaire which completely lost its defensive function. By the 17th century, teaching orders such as the convent of the Ursulines, which became the petit Séminaire (Small seminary) in 1804, the convent of the Visitation and not far from there, at the foot of the hill, the college of the Oratory. All these buildings were transformed into schools and administrations after the Revolution. Convent of the Visitation 9

10 rue Saint-Pierre/montée des Visitandines

This is the first building you will see on the left of the rue de la Palais de Justice, built from 1670 onwards with the stones of the old county castle situated just above and demolished at the end of the Revolution. Thirty years later, the convent extended to include the saint Mary chapel, which was used as a court during the Revolution. In the 19th century, the police station was installed in this vast edifice from 1804 to 1946, and the prison from 1793 to 1957. Today the building is occupied by the music and dance schools of Montbrison and the industrial tribunal. The convent of the Visitation is easy to recognise on account of 11

the spectacular dome above the old chapel. From the rue Saint-Pierre, it is possible to observe the edifice designed in 1700 by the architect martin de Noinville in a neo-classical style. The main front of the building has a large staircase which leads up to a monumental doorway flanked by two columns with Corinthian capitals crowned by a triangular pediment. Above the doorway, a clock is placed in a bull’s eye. The façade is crowned with a curved entablature adorned with flame ornaments on the sides behind which rises the dome topped with a lantern. Inside there is just one nave covered with a wooden ceiling with fern decoration. A decoration of grisaille paintings executed by Giovanni Zaccheo in 1854 shows trophies of Justice and many different allegories, accompanied by sentences in Latin in trompe-l’oeil panels. The convent became a criminal court in 1792, then court of Assises where several famous court cases were enacted, such as that of the anarchist Ravachol in 1892.

NEXT Go back a little way and take the passage way under the old chapel of Saint-Mary (on your left). Then go up the stairs to a first esplanade. Go across towards the main building and walk through the covered passage on the ground floor to the car park of the music centre Pierre Boulez. Cross the car park and at the end take the rue de la Visitation on your right. You will go past the whole length of the convent wall. At the end, go up the rue du Collège which will take you to the summit of Calvary hill. This is an exceptional view point over the southern part of the town.

The dome of the court of Justice, old chapel of the convent of the Visitandines

Court of Justice, Old convent of the Visitandines E. Dessert © Région Rhône-Alpes, General inventory of cultural heritage, 2006, A.D.A.G.P

Ramparts Calvary quarter

Tower keep County castle

Convent of the Cordeliers

13th century wall

Collegiate church Notre-Dame BarriĂ¨re tower 13th century

Water-filled ditches Church of Saint Andrew

View over Montbrison from the calvary at the end of the Middle Ages, taken from the Armorial de Revel (around 1450). National Library of France.

The defensive system of the town When continuing further, you will reach the south side of Calvary hill. The ramparts which have become the town wall walk, date from the first half of the 13th century. They formed the second line of defence of the county castle edified at the summit of Calvary hill at the end of the 11th century. At the end of the Middle Ages, the county castle included a crenulated quadrangular tower keep covered with a slightly sloping roof and a second imposing tower situated on the north side. A large two storey building with many windows was occupied by the court of auditors of Forez in the 15th century and in the 16th century by the Audience of justice. The castle was protected

15th century ramparts

by a circular crenulated wall without towers, accessible by an eastern gate. The castle was pulled down in 1596. For a long time, the medieval town had no fortifications until, after being ransacked several times during the Hundred year war, walls were erected in 1428. Within ten years, the town was enclosed by a high wall with 46 towers and seven gates. This third defensive enclosure which was in bad state and in danger of collapse was demolished at the beginning of the 19th century to extend and air the town. It has been replaced by the present boulevard. The promenade of the ramparts provides an excellent view over the southern part of Montbrison over the roofs. Just below, there is the old convent of the Ursulines which has become

the private school of Saint-Paul Forez and further away, the collegiate church quarter and the massive silhouette of the church tower. To the west, the town is bordered by the first hills of the mounts of Forez. The three monumental crosses erected in 1870 replaced an older Calvary. This was the arrival point of a Way of the cross that Jean-Baptiste Allard had installed on the hill at the beginning of the 19th century. Today Calvary hill is being rehabilitated by the commune.

NEXT Go back down the rue du Calvaire then the rue du Palais de Justice on the left. Walk past the cross-road in front of the old chapel of Saint Mary and continue up until the sub-prefecture. 12 14

The sub-prefecture area at the Revolution to be used as the Prefecture up until 1856. They then became the sub-prefecture. The old chapel in the west wing which was later transformed into a ceremonial room, the large entrance hall and main staircase, are decorated with remarkable trompe-l’oeil paintings executed by Giovanni Zaccheo in the first half of the 19th century.

Hôtel de Vazelhes 14 1, rue du Palais de Justice

Great hall and main staircase of the sub-Prefecture

Sub-prefecture 13 Square Honoré d’Urfé

The sub-prefecture of Montbrison is located in the old college of the Oratoriens built at the beginning of the 17th century. The members of the order of the Oratory, founded in 1611 by Pierre de Bérulle, were priests who were renowned for their liberal spirit, relative tolerance and a distinct taste for historical and scientific studies inspired by Descartes. The order was called to Montbrison to organise the instruction of young boys. They introduced a new educational approach by teaching in French instead of Latin right from the early years of schooling. After two successive fires, the buildings were reconstructed in 1784 by the architect Louis Dubost. They were built in a U shaped form between the courtyard and the garden and were taken over 13

(4th quarter 18th c- 1st half 19th c) Situated opposite the sub-prefecture, it is one of the examples of dwellings at the end of the 18th century which adopted the style of a private town residence. Unlike the houses seen in the previous streets, squeezed into a narrow area of land, this residence is built on a vast land plot including a garden surrounded by high walls. The decoration is quite plain. In the rue Puy-de-la-Bâtie, edifices of the same period possess great monumental staircases in the interior, giving a true ceremonial aspect to the ground floor.

Detail of the ceiling of the old chapel of the Oratory, which is the reception area of the sub-prefecture today

Square Honoré d’Urfé

Inaugurated in 2012, the square Honoré d’Urfé has been totally re-planned in a composite style partly inspired by the layout of “Jardins à la française”. These feature flowerbeds surrounded by trimmed hedges of boxwood and rectilinear alleyways converging towards a fountain. Many allusions are made to the pastoral novel about L’Astrée, written by Honoré d’Urfé (1567-1625), particularly the fountain of the Truth of Love which possesses powers of clairvoyance and the maze signifying wanderings and the search of one’s soul. Continue along the small Rue de la Préfecture which will take you to the boulevard de la Préfecture. Turn left down the boulevard. You will reach the museum of Allard and the garden of the same name just beyond.

Museum of Allard and garden of Allard Pigeon naturalized (museum of Allard Curiosity cabinets)

Portrait of Jean-Baptiste d’Allard

Martine GéGé doll, Photo © Musée d’Allard

Musée d’Allard 13, boulevard de la Préfecture Infos : 04 77 96 39 15 Web : www.ville-montbrison.fr

Museum

The museum is installed in the old private residence with garden built by Jean-Baptiste Allard, member of the military house of king Louis XVl. Three different themes are explored by the museum : Beaux-Arts, Natural history and the World of childhood, which includes amongst others, a rich collection of GéGé dolls which were produced at Moingt.

Garden

Hôtel garden of Allard (old postcard)

17 avenue d’Allard

This private garden which became public in 1857 was designed to fit in with the important campaign of work carried out by the commune at the end of the 18th century to air and improve the aspect of the town. The garden of Allard offered the inhabitants of Montbrison another leisure area in addition to the promenade in the tree-lined boulevards. Redesigned in an English style in 1856 by Eugène Büller, creator of the Parc de la Tête d’Or in Lyon, the garden is planted with a collection of remarkable trees.

Go back in the direction of the boulevard de la Préfecture which will take you to the Place Eugène Baune where the Hôtel de Ville is situated, the old convent of the Cordeliers. In 2012, the museum placed a new emphasis on the collections of the curiosity cabinet belonging to Jean-Baptiste Allard which had led to the creation of the first museum in the department of the Loire in 1810. Born in Montbrison in 1769, married with no descendants, living off his private income, Jean-Baptiste Allard devoted his life to the collection of often extraordinary “curiosities”, which he bequeathed to the town in 1848. Inspired by a rational intellectual approach, he collected objects which he placed in four categories : mineral, animal, vegetal and human. Curiosity cabinets could be defined as a taste for the unknown and the unlimited, they had been essential in the development of modern science since the 16th century. 14

Chapel of the convent of the Cordeliers

South faĂ§ade of the old chapel of the Cordeliers in 1858 (drawing Henri Gonnard - collection Louis Bernard)

Convent of the Cordeliers 18 Place EugĂ¨ne Baune

The old convent of the Cordeliers was chosen by the Loire-Forez urban district to house a new media library head of network. This project offered the occasion for archaeology to study one of the oldest convents in the town for the first time. An archaeological diagnostic led by the INRAP in 2010-2011 and excavations carried out in 2012 in the interior and exterior of the church, provided more extensive knowledge of the site. New questions concerning the chronology of construction and the organisation of the buildings in the medieval period have been raised. 15

A little history Probably founded by the lord of Lavieu between 1220 and 1240, the convent of the Cordeliers (Franciscan monks) contributed to the urban expansion of the town which already had three parishes, three hospitals and a collegiate church. The church opposite the tourist information was consecrated in 1272. At present, it is composed of a single nave. The original plan certainly aimed to respect the desire for simplicity wished by Franciscan monks who led an exemplary life founded on total poverty and preaching. The church was planned to include a single nave without a transept and a choir. Throughout the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries, many donations were made to

improve and extend the buildings. Lateral chapels were added to the south end of the church. Built in 1282, the cloisters form a square courtyard surrounded on three sides by covered rounded arcades joined to the buildings. The fourth side, still covered in the west, looked over the cemetery.

The archaeological excavations in the interior and exterior of the church of the Cordeliers have produced a large number of sepulchres. Opposite: discovery of a processional cross in bronze

Results of the archaeological diagnostic About sixty individual sepulchres have been discovered inside and outside the church, with a density of 12 to 16 sepulchres on 6 to 7 m2 on three to five levels. This high density has been confirmed by the excavations of 2012 and attests the attraction of the convent as a burial site. The sepulchres were found in the interior of the church, in the galleries of the cloisters, on the south side of the church and stretching towards the chevet and in front of the west front. The galleries of the cloisters, the church and the chapels seem to have been reserved for the wealthiest members of the population and the clergy.

Little archaeological furniture has been discovered. It is mostly composed of ceramics, money and religious or funerary objects (end 14th15th c). Among the most interesting discoveries was a decorated bronze processional cross (14th c) placed in a tomb in the nave, and a silver medal and pearls in a necklace of rosary beads worn around the hand of a deceased person in one of the lateral chapels. The almost total lack of objects from the 13th century raises the problem of the true date of the church which does not seem to correspond to the date of foundation. Would there have been an older chapel outside the perimeter of the excavations ? A subject to be pursuedâ&#x20AC;Ś Valuable historical evidence has given support to the

architectural project for the media library which concentrates the rehabilitation of the church on the evocation of the former volumes of the edifice. END OF TOUR Tourist information office of Montbrison Moingt

Project of the media library

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The decoration of the Romanesque bell tower of the church of Saint-Julien is slightly similar to the ornamentation of Roman public buildings, with patterns of multicoloured stones and geometrical motifs

Gallo-Roman Moingt (1st – 3rd cent AD)

In the 19th century, the site of Sainte Eugénie revealed the existence of ancient Gallo-Roman thermal baths of exceptional dimensions. Together with the theatre situated nearby, they are witness to the importance of Moingt as a cultural centre and spa which has left remains spreading over 15 hectares. This future archaeological reserve has become the object of a long term conservation and development programme. 17

The site of Sainte-Eugénie is largely made up of the walls of the ancient Gallo-Roman thermal baths. Photo © Pays du Forez

The baths (site of Sainte Eugénie) As early as 1674, the canon Jean-Marie de la Mure considered these as the remains of a temple of Cérès. The edifice was turned into a dime collection centre then into a priory in the Middle Ages. It possessed a church dedicated to Saint Eugenie. The buildings were occupied in 1804 by Saint Clare nuns, then in 1821 by a trimmings factory and later transformed into a private residence during the Second Empire. The edifice was identified in 1876 as being ancient thermal baths. The municipality acquired the site in 1989 with the aid of the State, the Region and the Department. The site is listed

as a Historic Monument. From 1991 to 1993, several archaeological studies were carried out on the remains. The sector of the thermal baths already discovered may cover 1850m2 ; this would class Moingt (Aquae Segetae) among the largest public thermal baths in the Rhône-Alpes. The chronology of the construction of baths at Moingt has not yet been precisely determined. However, various different discoveries suggest that the ancient town of Moingt was abandoned in the second half of the third century AD. Although archaeological investigations have been of a limited nature up until present, they have increased our knowledge of the site.

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Walls of the ancient Gallo-Roman theatre

The vast quadrilateral building in the park is the result of the addition of buildings in the Middle Ages, the chapel of Sainte Eugénie and its gothic portal are the only visible remains of these, to antique constructions. Most of the walls up to a height of 10 to 12 metres in certain places, were conserved. The only modifications to the antique walls were the building in of windows at different periods. These changes are confirmed by the presence of a basin to the south of the buildings, parallel to the façade, 43m by 8m, terminating with a half-moon in the east. Remains of a hypocaust (underground heating system by stove to heat the baths and the different rooms) have been

Aerial view of the antique Gallo-Roman combined theatre at Moingt

found close to the basin. The thermal baths also had a large sports ground (called palestre) limited in the east by a high wall against which porticos (galleries held up by two rows of columns) and shops were built.

Antique theatre Recognised around 1849, the antique theatre of Moingt was built over two periods (2nd half of the 1st century – beginning of the 3rd century). It could contain 7 300 to 8 000 spectators ; only a few walls of the cavea which contained the tiered seating are visible today, called locally : “walls of the Saracens”. Two campaigns of study carried out 1995 and 1996 showed that a previous

theatre structured out of earth had existed here. The antique theatre of Moingt was composed of three parts. • A stage closed (A) by a stage wall (the stage measured 22m long by 7m wide with angles consolidated by buttresses). The theatre of Moingt was unusual in that it possessed a mobile stage, with a removable floor to serve also for games in the arena. This is why it is called a combined theatre, since depending on its needs, it could offer stage performances or arena shows. • The orchestre (B) This is the flat section between the stage and the tiered seating. Important citizens sat here on

removable chairs during stage performances. This part was left empty for arena shows. • The cavea (C The name given to the tiered seating on the slope. The cavea of the theatre of Moingt had the form of the arc of a large circle : 42m radius, 80m circumference. It included 26 rows of seats, to which several more were added for stage performances, bringing its capacity up to between 7 300 and 8 000 spectators. There were three entrance doors into the cavea, which itself was divided into 6 parts. The recent archaeological excavations have revealed that the seating was terraced in earth and covered with wood or stone slabs. 18

Region of art and history, a designated status given by the minister of culture and communication. The Forez has been classified « Region of Art and History » since 1999 and recognised for the quality of its landscapes, its historic architectural heritage and its traditional crafts and industries. « Towns and regions of art and history » is a national designated status attributed by the Ministry of culture and communication to local communities engaged in restoration and development programmes for their heritage. This status guaranties the quality of cultural and historical activities organised by qualified staff. Today a network of 163 towns and regions offer you their competence all over France.

Heritage visitors service… Visits are organised all through the year for the local population and tourists as well as educational visits and workshops for school children. The service is available to study any project. The programme can be found on the web site: www.paysduforez.fr. For group visits, see offers of themes proposed by the Region of Art and History of the Forez on www.foreztourisme.fr.

… Explore the Forez in the company of a heritage guide authorized by the ministry of culture and communication The guide who welcomes you knows all the aspects of the Forez and will help you to understand the landscapes, traditional activities, and history as you visit the emblematic monuments, towns and villages of the Forez.

Information, reservations : Syndicat mixte des Pays du Forez Pays d’art et d’histoire du Forez Place du Prieuré BP 14 42600 CHAMPDIEU Tél : 04 77 97 70 35 Fax : 04 77 97 05 92 Courriel : contact@paysduforez.fr Site : www.paysduforez.fr

Produced with the financial support of

Montbrison Moingt - Illustrations : Loire-Forez tourist information centre, Regional inventory service, National Library of France, town of Montbrison,Moingt, MN Palliard, Pays du Forez syndicate, Loire-Forez urban district, Jemaja Dujc. Texts : Forez Region of Art and History, with the kind collaboration of Loire-Forez tourist information, the commune and municipal archives of Montbrison Moingt. Champdieu - Illustrations : commune of Champdieu, Pays du Forez syndicate, National Library of France. Texts : Forez region of Art and History (Pays du Forez syndicate) with the kind collaboration of the Loire-Forez tourist information. Design : Catherine Ornon - Printed by : Decombat - Translation : Janet Darne

Region of Art and History of Forez Visitorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide

The tale of Champdieu

Romanesque Art Centre in the Forez: the builders of the year One Thousand. Permanent exhibition.

Priory church, view from the cloisters

An important centre of monastic art in the Forez

Situated on the wine-growing slopes of the mounts of Forez, Champdieu is a fortified village which grew up around a priory founded in the 11th century. The remarkable restoration of its architectural heritage, its participation in the network “Strongholds of the Forez” and “Villages of character in the Loire” make it an outstanding historical place.

Romanesque Art Centre in the Forez : monks and builders around the year One Thousand Tourist information Porte de Bise 26, rue Bégonnet Biron Tél. 04 77 97 02 68

To explore Champdieu and the monastery buildings of the Forez 1

is to become immerged in the history of a formidable human adventure and religious effervescence which produced the master pieces of Romanesque works of art from the end of the 10th century to the 12th century. Situated next to the fortified gate of Bise, the Romansesque Art Centre in the Forez explains why there was such a massive settlement

Overhead view of the cloisters

of monasteries in the Forez and in Europe. It shows the organisation of a building site of a rural priory and also the daily life of the monks. This is a good introduction to understanding a priory.

provided a path to make a tour of the buildings. The fortifications of the priory and the village were erected during the Hundred Year war (1337 - 1453) when the Forez was regularly pillaged.

The fortifications of the priory

The priory

When entering the historic village through the Gate of Bise, (14th century) the visitor is surprised by the imposing fortifications added to the outside walls of the priory. They are formed of machicolation on buttresses with parapet on arches which continue along the top of the church. A circular tower completes the defensive system on the façade. A wall walk *Machicolation : from “mâcher” crush ; balcony at the top of walls or towers with openings in the floor to observe the enemy below or drop down projectiles or incendiary matter.

Founded by the abbey of Manglieu in Auvergne around the end of the 10th century or the beginning of the 11th century, the priory of Champdieu is mentioned in manuscripts in 1212 ; It is composed of a Romanesque church built over a crypt as well as monastery buildings organised around cloisters and conserved in the same state as in the Middle Ages. *Priory : monastery directed by a prior. Priories, founded by important abbeys, were small rural subsidiaries served by a limited number of monks (between 3 and 20 in the Forez).

Painting in the old refectory representing the Last Supper (first half of the 15th century)

• Cloisters

• Refectory

The main entrance to the priory is situated on the north side. Above the door, there is a recess occupied by a statue of Saint Benoît whose rule governed the life of monks. A porch covered with painted wooden panels opens into the cloisters, which are surrounded by buildings corresponding to the daily life of the monks. The monastery buildings were entirely restored from 1450 to 1505 by the prior Pierre de la Bâtie. On the ground floor, there are still the common rooms, bakery, kitchen, the refectory decorated with frescoes and equipped with a monumental fireplace, cellars and reserves. The chapter house used to be situated on the east of the cloisters, it was demolished in the 19th century. The first floor, accessible by a wooden gallery and a spiral staircase, was occupied by the prior’s lodgings and the monks’ dormitory. The second floor was occupied by the eaves, drying areas, barns and galetas (sort of small lodgings under roofs).

This is the only room, apart from the prior’s lodgings above, which possesses a monumental fireplace. It is adorned with a painting representing the Last Supper, the last meal of Christ (first half of 15th century). The ceiling of the refectory is decorated with panelling painted in white, blue and red. The monks assembled here for their frugal daily meal. They were obliged to eat in silence, to eat and drink the products of their farm properties in moderate quantities.

The church of Saint Sébastien and saint Domnin This was certainly already a priory church in the 11th century, it is of a simple, sober design as all the Romanesque churches of the Forez. Outside, in addition to the fortifications already mentioned, two bell towers can be seen. One of them, of a Romanesque style, rises above the crossing of the transept

and is finely worked. Alternating geminate bays surmounted by blind arcades, occupy the openwork sides of the tower and offer similarities with the bell tower of the abbey of Ainay in Lyon. The second bell tower, of a more austere aspect, rises above the entrance portal of the church. It has a Romanesque base but its summit was probably reconstructed at the end of the Middle Ages.

• The high church Entrance is through a Romanesque portal in the plain style typical of the Forez. Here, there is no tympanum carved with biblical scenes but a simple round arch with voussoirs springing from two sculpted capitals. One is decorated with a two-tailed mermaid symbolising the dangerous seduction of illusions and temptations. The other is decorated with an acanthus leaf, a classical theme of sculpture for the Romans, which symbolises the victory of glory over obstacles. The plan of the high church in the form of a

Capital with two-tailed mermaid

cross is classical (12th century). The nave, preceded by a narthex*, is covered with a barrel vault and flanked by two supporting side-aisles covered with half-spherical vaults. Above the narthex*, a chapel dedicated to Saint Michael dominates the nave. At the end of the nave, the raised choir above the crypt is formed of an apse flanked by two small apsidal chapels. Although the church had the double purpose of serving monastery and parish, most of it was reserved for the monks. The inhabitants followed mass led by a chaplain in one of the lateral chapels of the choir.

*Narthex : entrance or lobby area at the end of the nave reserved for people who received religious instruction but who had not yet been baptised and were not allowed into the church. 2

Bridge of Ruillat

Washing basin

Illustrated walking tour

Starting point

Bridge of Ruillat

Gate of Bise

Wine house

Monastery buildings

Church

Old hospital

Le chemin des Efossés

Town hall and schools

10 La place du Chauffour

Informations

• The capitals The church possesses a large number of Romanesque capitals with a geometrical, vegetal or figurative decoration. Romanesque sculpture offers a vision of the world at that time, agitated by the perpetual combat between vice and virtue. This was a universe of rigid hierarchy, harmoniously ordered and governed by God. Descend the staircase on the left of the choir, behind the benches.

An example of recuperation of ancient mythology by the church Carved on one of the capitals of the south pillar of the transept, at the point of contact with the dome, there are two atlantes which offer a direct reference to Greek mythology. Atlas, the “bearer”, was a Titan. After the revolt of the Titans against the Olympian gods, Atlas was condemned by Zeus to hold up the world until someone replaced him… 3

• The crypt There are only four churches in the Forez with Romanesque crypts: Saint-Romain-Le-Puy, Saint-Just Saint-Rambert, SaintJean-Soleymieux. The church of Champdieu, composed of an apse flanked by two small chapels adorned with columns and capitals, is light and has a striking finely-carved decoration based mainly on a vegetal theme. Accessible by two staircases, this is a pilgrimage church. Initially dedicated to Saint Sebastien, a second patron saint, Saint Domnin, a young martyr of the 4th century, was added in the 11th century. In the centre of the crypt, placed on an altar,there is a sculpture representing the infant Virgin (19th century) which attracted pilgrims up until the Second World War.

■ Walking tour

1 Starting point

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An illustrated walk « Champdieu, a thousand years of history » An illustrated walk will help you to discover the historic heritage of Champdieu, starting from the place du Ruillat. It will take you into the priory, along the town wall walk, and through the

suburbs with their interesting rural architecture: vineyards, orchards, farmyards enclosed by traditional porches, small vine houses, pigeon lofts are waiting to be discovered along this pleasant walk. Two short walking tours: the “Circuit de la Madone” (8km) and the “Circuit des Hérons” (10km) will lead you through vines and ponds.