Everglades

Cape St George Lighthouse

A trip from Shoalhaven to Jervis Bay (FROM A CORESPONDENT)

‘Some time since, with two companions in spring cart and with one riding horse, I started for Jervis, being desirous of making some sketches of the scenery at the lighthouse.

At Parnell’s Inn, at Tomerong, we turned to the left, and by mistake found ourselves in the afternoon among the ruined houses of South Huskisson. A parson who lived in one of these ruins, showed us the way to the lighthouse, through the bush for we had gone quite astray. We proceeded on until sunset and having then lost our way again amongst the swamps and numerous cart tracks, we put up our tent to encamp for the night and got our supper. .… I shall never forget the dismal howling of the native dogs on all sides of the tent. …. after an early breakfast (we) proceeded towards our destination. Our cart horse not being very strong, we were obliged to unload the vehicle at the bottom of the sandhill and leave our flour and several other things behind. These we afterwards sent for. With much trouble we reached the lighthouse and encamped in the vicinity. One of my companions then returned to the Shoalhaven with the horses as there was no feed for them on the coast; and I immediately commenced the drawings I came to make. My companion amused himself in fishing whilst we remained.

The place was so much exposed to the weather that we found tent life anything but agreeable, having sometimes to get up in the night to fasten the cords, in rain and … We found the quarters for the lighthouse keeper and establishment very insufficient.

A fortnight passed away very quickly, and a couple of strong horses having been brought for us, we returned to Shoalhaven, carrying a load of native currants with us, there being great quantities at this place in the season...

In September, 1877, I paid another visit to the bay, this time with a good strong horse, and a more comfortable vehicle, Mr Gibson having kindly offered me accommodation in the cottage lately erected for him during the time I proposed to remain. We travelled along the road formerly in use until we were stopped by a cockatoo fence, which some free selector had put up. We, therefore, had to turn back and tried to cross a swamp to reach the road which lay the other side of it, and nearly got bogged; but a good horse got us out of difficulty. We then headed the swamp, and crossed a ditch (by which our vehicle was partly smashed) cut on Government land, apparently by the aforesaid free selector, and succeeded in reaching the road we sought. About 3.0pm the lighthouse came in sight, and Mr Gibson made us welcome...

Artists from Sydney will do well to visit Jervis Bay, as the coast scenery is, in my opinion, of the finest description. If on horseback, hobbles are necessary, and a supply of corn, for there is no grass of any consequence. My own horse was so disgusted with the want of grass, and at my not giving him a feed of corn the moment I arose, that he leaped the fence and took a gallop of six miles to find something to eat. This gave us trouble, but we were fortunate enough to catch him in time to make the journey to Shoalhaven by dusk. However, if the swamps were drained, there would be plenty of grass, and the land is rich and well suited for fruit trees and vegetables. At Tomerong the road passes over the tops of high hills instead of going at their feet; and I hope this will someday be altered’.

Visit: https://parksaustralia.gov.au/booderee/do/lighthouse/ Images: © Jervis Bay Maritime Museum, © Petra Jungmanova and © Dreamstime

DAY 17

This is the story of the ‘Everglades’, the most beautiful and well-preserved art deco house in Australia and the creation of its magical garden in the rugged Australian bush. Rising from the ashes to become a tranquil paradise, this example of the finest landscape architecture and an art deco architectural masterpiece will never be repeated in Australia.

I fell under the ‘Everglades’ spell during my first visit many years ago with my little son. Simply, I couldn’t believe the grandeur and genius of this place as we walked along a narrow winding path surrounded by a carpet of bluebells. Truly this place will transcend and challenge anyone’s idea about a garden and its relationship to a house and its inhabitants.

All this was achieved over 14 years in an epic scale creation by the owner Henri Van de Velde, a merchant and felt maker, whose business success allowed him to follow his passion for gardens, and a renowned landscape architect, Paul Sorenson who had the vision and had devoted his life to creating this space.

With the co-operation of and assistance from the NSW Archives of the National Trust of Australia I was fortunate to be given access to material from both Henri Van de Velde and Paul Sorenson. This presented me with the unique opportunity to let Paul Sorensen tell the story of his creation in his own words – ‘musings’ if you like, as written by him (with minor amendments for readability).

EVERGLADES The Early Years

As you enter the “Everglades”, you are filled with the expectancy of seeing something unusual, something entirely unlike anything you have seen before in Australia or for that matter anywhere in the world. So, as you walk on, your curiosity prompts you to enquire, when, how and why, was this property built and landscaped, and now open for public inspection?

Thereby hangs a Tale….., but before going into the history of “Everglades”, it is only appropriate to mention, that “Everglades” is now under the auspices of The National Trust and without the foresight and intervention by this August body “Everglades” would have been lost to posterity. THAT is the reason, why now we can enjoy walking in the grounds of this wonderful garden. A brief history of “Everglades” will answer your other questions; therefore, you are invited to Leura, retrospectively speaking and the year is 1910.

Here records reveal that Mrs. Stonier owned eight acres on the western slope of Denison St., where she built a residence, and named it “Everglades”. The house was close to the road and at the rear she planted an Orchard. Not only did she tend her Apple and Pear trees, but planted many ornamental trees as well, amongst them were a Cypress (Lambertiana), a Silver Birch, a Prunus and Larch, also a flowering Cherry. These are still to be seen preserved and incorporated in the schemes of the new “Everglades”. Mrs. Stonier toiled thus in her orchards and garden for many years, but disaster befell her property, when a fire went through and razed it to the ground. Nothing remained except blackened ruins and charred trees of the first “Everglades”… and so it was left!

Time went by, the first World War was over, and Leura experienced an impetus of home builders. New life had been injected into the usual peaceful existence of the “Village”, as Leura was known under those days buy its citizens. Doctors, lawyers, businessmen and the retired, as well as active squatters settled there - some permanently, others built merely holiday homes. The scenic splendour, coupled with its tranquillity and crisp Mountain air, had long been an established attraction. Therefore, not only home builders came to Leura, but also, many visitors arrived for weekends to enjoy golfing; others for walks in the fern clad glens and gullies, or solely to admire the grandeur and rugged beauty of the landscape.

PAUL SORENSEN from Denmark to Everglades

Born in Copenhagen, Denmark, where I received my education. Commenced training in the landscape profession in 1902. In those years the requirements were everyone had to start at the bottom of the ladder.

In Landscape Architecture, training commenced in the Nursery - to gain full knowledge and understanding of trees and shrubs, 5 years was the period required; in addition, came the Technical College Education. The last two years of my training fortunately came under the tuition of Denmark’s leading landscape Architect of the day. Amongst the gardens in his care was the Villa Hvidøre, the summer residence of our Present Queen’s great-grandmother Queen Alexandra, which she shared with her sister the Dowager Empress of Russia, and a garden in which I was privileged to work.

The five years successfully completed, and in addition my military training over, I ventured South to Germany - Parks and Gardens in Belin, and Seidel in Dresden where camellias were grown by the thousands for indoor decorations. Then, To Sinai in Frankfurt A M where 1000 acres of lilacs were grown - 20 acres under glass; and as Lilacs are in flower for 6 months of the year, sent as cut flowers all over Europe. Other cut flower side lines were Roses, Carnations, Chrysanthemums, and Auratum Lillies - 100,000 a year.

Then, an onward journey to Switzerland. In those years a landscape artist’s Paradise, where businessmen of Central Europe retired, with the desire to enjoy pleasant surroundings for the remainder of their years. With a high standard of pride in citizenship, and the outstanding masters in the landscape art to work with, I spent more than 4 happy years gaining most valuable experience and knowledge. Excursion journeys of study were made to famous old gardens of Italy, Austria and France.

Urged to break new ground and see the other lands, and reading full page advertisements in leading Swiss papers, with an invitation to come to Australia the land of sunshine and many other lucrative inducements, I accepted and booked for Australia.

The 1914 war broke out, ships sailing dates were delayed with great secrecy surrounding same, and so passengers were requested to report to London. Germany’s rapid advance in France with railway lines cut, led to observing men as comrades, men as friends - meeting on Railway stations in Switzerland, yet one going to Germany in the East and the other to France in the West to fight against one against the other.

Saying good-bye to my firm who had taught me many things, the chief of the firm asked where I was going, my answer - Australia was received with laughter, and the reply: “You will find no Landscape Architecture in Australia”.

I Landed in Melbourne in March 1915, in the drought years of 1910 -1915, seeking advice of the Danish Consul. His is answer was: “Young man you have come to a wonderful country but arrived at a very bad time - accept whatever offers, have confidence, render faithful service and you will never regret it!”

The offering was a job on a station on the borders of N.S.W. and Victoria: accommodation: an unlined 10’ x 12’ iron hut - no windows, no furniture; wages: 1 pound per week. Not a blade of grass to be seen for miles; sheep and cattle dying every day; then the dust storms -impossible to see arms and legs in front of you. Many times, my thoughts wandered to the beautiful countries I had known. At least the rains came - unforgettable scenes to be witnessed and unbelievable transformation with mother earth again coming to life, months of observation. A never to be forgotten experience gained in a few months.

Again, saying ‘good-bye’ intending to go to New Zealand, but getting no further than Katoomba. Leaving behind my Bohemian years of learning, I settled down to work. The No 1 job was re-modelling the garden of the Carrington Hotel for the late Sir Joynton Smith, and finding patronage in plenty, with every undertaking a stepping stone to better and bigger undertakings - like in 1933, meeting Mr Van de Velde.

Henry Van de Velde and “EVERGLADES”

Henri van de Velde was a new and frequent visitor to Leura in the late 20’ies; a man with boundless energy, courage and vision; a man with wide interests. It was generally assumed that Henri van de Velde was endowed with affluence - this was not so. He worked in many varied fields, commercial and non-commercial, but never tiring. Someone was bound to detect his rare qualities…..and so it happened.

The crash of Wall St. in 1929 sent business houses rocking, financial institutions began drastic revisions of their affairs - those who survived were limping, hoping for miracles, but no such a thing occurred. There was only one remedy, place men at the helm fitted for leadership. When Henri van de Velde was handed the tiller to steer the then losing concern Felt and Textiles of Australia Ltd. out of its difficulties, he did so with zest for the task and the firm prospered under his guidance and leadership.

On his many visits to Leura in 1932 he had watched the construction and progress of the garden at “Dean Park”, which was in the hands of Paul Sorensen, many years a Landscape Artist in Leura. Henri Van de Velde had made many mental notations, for one thing, in this construction, he had observed fine Craftsmanship and ingenious methods, and use of local materials. So, he approached Paul Sorensen for the purpose of receiving advice regarding the eight acres he had bought, and upon which he was building a home at the time.

Thereafter, the two men met weekend upon weekend, walking, climbing and discussing the potentialities the site offered for Landscape Treatment. Henri Van de Velde had an innate comprehension of a scheme outlined to him, but could also quickly see pitfalls; however, advantages he noted with appreciation. There existed an imperceptible affinity between the two - their principles and ethics ran on parallel lines. That a friendship came with mutual understanding and implicit faith in each other was to be expected. The ultimate result of these many meetings was that Paul Sorensen was given ‘Carte blanche’ and complete freedom over the entire eight acres to do with as he considered for a Landscape befitting the aspect, and this was 1933. As a paradox to normal business routine, it should be mentioned here, that for this huge assignment, there never existed a Master Plan, nor were any Specifications ever prepared. Incredible, but true, no signed contract was ever needed. That year saw the first sod turned of the “Everglades” you see today…

A herculean task lay now before Paul Sorensen. Never before in Australia’s history had anyone been called upon to create a private garden of such dimensions. The ‘modus operandi’ called for expert organisation: field work, such as surveying for quantities and alignments, and pegging of areas to be treated now and later; tools and gear to be considered; engaging of extra labour; and materials deliveries also had to be thought of - all to enable the scheme to operate with a minimum of interruptions. Existing trees were marked for preservation - deformed and unattractive ones were removed, as were protruding rocks with no appreciable features. Every cultivated area was hand-dug to a depth of 2-3 feet and for this a team of workers was thus engaged for months and months.

Henri Van de Velde and Paul Sorensen would continue to meet regularly every weekend to discuss the progress made and the schedule for the following week. All available ironstone found and dug out in process of trenching was saved and graded for various uses, such as retaining wall constructions and path making, with the residue for packing and filling in other work. Nothing was ever discarded; use was made use of everything.

Stone retaining walls were constructed where required to hold masses of earth beyond, and other walls to enhance, or as demarcation. As many as fourteen Stonemasons were engaged at one stage, but this should be understood readily by observing the enormous quantities of small ironstones used in the overall construction of this garden. Furthermore, not every Stonemason can handle this material with dexterity, nor in the beginning, obtain the required exactness, as this type of work differs vastly from the usual and ordinary of Sandstone ashlars. Consequently, keen supervision had to be maintained of all work on hand, small or large, throughout the entire fourteen years it took to create this garden.

“Everglades” was taking shape gradually. Huge moss and lichen covered rocks were hauled up the Mountainside to form an Alpine landscape. Some of the rocks were brought to the surface by block and tackle, others were levered foot by foot to the area above by nothing else, but sheer human strength. Nothing was ever easy, but the ultimate result was worthwhile. With that in mind, a happy co-existence prevailed and was shared between the owner, employer, and workers.

Other major constructions were scheduled to take place within the boundaries. The huge lawn running North to South had to be formed, and the swimming pool had to be incorporated in this scheme. Thousands of tons of soil had to be handled again to produce this long stretch of level area, while simultaneously another hand packed retaining wall had to be built to support this work. That Henri Van de Velde was both impressed and proud of the achievement of the preceding five to six years, was not to be wondered at.

As the earlier plantings had passed the infant stages and showed promise of even greater beauty, Paul Sorensen received encouragement to proceed. He had commenced, and although aware of the abnegation Henri Van de Velde had imposed upon himself to make “Everglades” possible, neither had doubts in their mind regarding the final result. So, the work went on and on. Thus, an area was selected for Theatre Garden, adjacent to the large lawn at the Southern end. The area is elevated from the lawn by about three feet. The handling of such subject is not an everyday assignment, even for those who are engaged professionally and continuously designing architecture.

Everything now depended on the utmost care being exercised in selection of design and materials to be employed. The dignity of the surrounding landscape demanded aesthetic treatment; moreover, it would have to carry a message, or some appropriate symbol. What could be more beautiful than a classical application in this setting? It was decided to adopt a theme symbolising “Australian Youth”, and this was to be modelled and cast in bronze. Consequently, a sculptor was called in for a consultation, resulting in two bronze panels being inserted in the wall. Much and many were the details involved to obtain the desired effect. Two slender, smooth, sandstone pillars carry the semi-circular Arch above. Beneath, in the background of the niche, are the panes; the foreground enhanced by a rectangular shallow pool. The thought behind and volume of work entailed, would be too lengthy to dwell on this booklet. It should be mentioned, however, that the sides or “wings” on the Lawn Stage were planted with specimens of Thuya, possessing density and a type trusted to grow uniformly together. As another point of interest, an overseas Prima Ballerina once performed on this stage.

Another, and possibly one of the finest features at “Everglades” is the Wistaria covered Loggia facing the southern Valleys. It was a bold decision to erect a brick construction at this aspect. The area sloped strongly and to the South and in some places, was quite precipitous. Strong and deep foundations had to be made to carry the superstructure. Bricklayers who were masters of their craft were detailed for this work. Bricks were selected for the colour and texture, and anything not conforming to the standard was rejected. Viewing the finished work from either end, it faintly resembles a Piazza and passageway combined in a castle on the Mediterranean Coast - with a difference, however, that it is overlooking blue valleys instead of an azure blue sea.

With the entering of Australia into the Second World War, conditions at “Everglades” altered somewhat. Only men exempted from war service remained, progress was made, but at a slower rate. Both Henri Van de Velde and Paul Sorensen found that added responsibilities had been cast upon their shoulders, also, in their respective callings. The garden was maintained and kept in immaculate order, whilst a few men still worked on smaller projects about the property, and thus the Grotto was completed.

The War was over and further work was discussed. New walls had to be built and other areas cleared to give room for added features. Some of these were completed before Henri Van de Velde went on a business trip to New York, where his tragic and untimely death occurred in 1947. The fate of the “Everglades “hung in the balance. Was the widow going to continue where her late husband had left off? …Was the Question. No, she was perfectly happy to place “Everglades” on the market.

It was not an easy proposition to find buyers for this fine property, although in 1950 it was considered that by sub-division, it might have found ready buyers. On the sub-division plan it showed the garden cut into three lots (a sacrilege if ever there was one), however, “Everglades” was placed in the hands of a Sydney firm of Auctioneers to dispose of the lots under the hammer…the day arrived… there was much admiration…but not a single bid received. It seems that providence decided the fate of “Everglades” that day.

Though the property has several owners since then - none of whom, if any at all, cared for the garden properly, or whether it was inadequate labour, or sheer lack of understanding by the various owners. No one knows, but for every change of ownership, “Everglades” fell into decay and disrepair, and could have become a relic form a past era if the National Trust had not recognized its value to the Nation. Now with the National Trust as custodian, Paul Sorensen rightfully is back to restore beautiful “Everglades”.

EVERGLADES Interesting Features From the Brochure Prepared for the National Trust by Paul Sorensen

Everglades is Australia’s First National Garden and Cold Climate Arboretum at Leura on the Blue Mountains.

Comprising 13 acres of glorious garden property in natural bush setting, Everglades was acquired by the National Trust of Australia (N.S.W) early in 1962.

It is situated on a slope which commands wide views of the Jamieson Valley and is recognised as an unusually fine example of garden Architecture and Landscaping.

In 1932 a Belgian born Sydney businessman Mr Henri Van de Velde bought the property, retaining the name “Everglades” and gave the well-known Danish landscape Architect, Mr Paul Sorensen the tremendous task of creating the garden.

Garden areas were hand trenched to a depth of 3 ft to allow for successful tree planting and huge amounts of soil were carted by wheelbarrows to form terraces. At no times were the usual techniques of cutting and filling for the terraces adopted, but in every instance, filling only was accepted.

The property is famous for the high standard of workmanship shown in the stonework, which is made up of specially chosen and shaped stones.

The easy grading of the paths winding through the grounds and connecting the upper and lower terraces and patios enable visitors of all ages to enjoy the beauty and serenity of the surroundings. These paths and steps are made of stones collected from as far away as thirty miles. Other paths wind down to the lookouts and then to the Grotto Pool.

The Grotto Pool was formed by moving a 40-ton rock which was handled by Mr Sorensen and three teenage boys, and in fact bodily carried forward to its present position in the foreground of the pool.

Below the upper lookout, a dam has been made to provide a water supply for the extensive irrigation system covering the whole garden layout.

Following Henri Van de Velde’s death in 1947 “Everglades” was sold a number of times and passed through many hands. The generosity of several anonymous donors enabled the acquisition of the property by the National Trust early in 1962. The trust considers it to be most important that this magnificent, landscaped garden be preserved and developed for the Nation, whilst garden lovers throughout Australia have acclaimed this object.

One of the early difficulties in the restoration was the problem of combating weeds and blackberries which choked paths and had overgrown gardens during more than 15 years neglect.

The various Urns in the grounds are exact replicas of originals to be found in the old gardens in Italy; restricted numbers only were permitted to be executed and exported. Distribution was under the control of the Italian Government.

Southern Europe is also represented in the Bronzes. The boy with the thorn in his foot situated under the Weeping Japanese Maple on the path to the house. The runner to be found underneath the Poplar below the Squash Court and other Bronzes placed in the main courtyard.

True peace and tranquillity exist in this glorious setting and as Mr Sorensen its creator explains “The success of a garden depends on what impression is made on the visitors mind by outstanding features, seen and observed during his wandering thorough the garden such features my consist of vistas terminating in an impressive focal point, a setting of rocks, perfect specimen of a tree, a distant view of the Jamison Valley from the Rock Garden on the highest level to the Grotto Pool walk on the lowest level continually changing, then from suitable vantage points, particularly at the water course garden, being able to stand back scrutinizing the many retaining walls, beauty of the lines of same and workmanship crowned by a glorious canopy of Lombardy Poplars, Celtis Banksiamen, Banks of Rhododendrons and Conifers and on the return journey the serpentine walls beneath the more than a hundred years old Scribbly Gums near the dam lookout.

The main courtyard, the sun terrace looking onto an old Italian Urn the leaning Scribbly Gum lawn, The Theatre Garden every turn in the path something new, something unexpected enabling the individual visitor to select their own favourite spot. Such, briefly are some of the features discussed by visitors when leaving ”Everglades”.

The garden is held in such regard that a visit to it will be part of the training of student Nurserymen in the Parks and Garden section of the Lands and survey branch of the Department of the Interior which, in Canberra, maintains the country’s most extensive gardening and landscape projects.

The chief Nurseryman Mr F.M. Moore has voiced to the Trust his opinion the “Everglades” is, without doubt the finest example of landscaping to be seen in Australia. Mr Moore also wrote: “It is with great pleasure that I contact you to tell you of the admiration I hold for the work that the Trust is doing in restoring “Everglades” at Leura. The garden itself is without doubt the finest example of landscaping to be seen in Australia and something which the Australian people should retain and guard very jealously. There are two reasons for such a statement, the first being that “everglades” was created by undoubtedly the most gifted landscape Architect in Australia and secondly because this continent will not see a repeat of this type of landscaping again on such a magnificent scale. It would be a wonderful thing if more horticulturally minded people could visit this amazing garden and experience the delight of viewing landscaping at its very best.

The natural and virgin portion of “Everglades” contains a wide and varied and valuable collection of Australian Alpines, hundreds of perfect specimens are to be found there as well as Grevilleas, Boronia, Banksiamen, Acacias Hakea, Leptospermum to mention a few. This part when developed, plants named and labelled will be great attraction for lovers of Australian natives.

The Trust has opened the unusual five-bedroom house for public inspection. Tribute is paid to the many people who have assisted with donations of cash, plants, and the many items required to restore the garden. Others have contributed labour and advice and to these as well the Trust extends its thanks.

Visit: https://www.nationaltrust.org.au/places/everglades-house-gardens/ Images: © Beverley Clifford, © John L Phillips, © Harold Cazneaux, © National Trust and © Dreamstime

PRAGUE

DAY 18

Prague, this ancient city, brings many warm, happy memories for anyone who ever spends even a night there. The City of a Hundred Spires, the Golden City, or Mother of Cities – Prague, as we Czechs affectionately call her, will get under your skin the moment you step into her crooked streets leading you to the beautiful unknown. Modern Prague has many faces and caters for any taste from old-fashioned backpacking to luxurious, castle view hotels like the Four Seasons. I was born one hour from Prague; so my trips through my childhood saw a Prague that was not this shiny elegant place, but rather a mystically worn-out big city with empty streets where anything can happen. These days I plan ahead for my day trips so as to make the most of the historical, beautiful Centre and everything it has to offer. Simply, there is a lot to experience in Prague in one day.

Catching the Metro and trams are the best ways to move around Prague. I always love starting at Václavské Náměstí (Wenceslaus Square), then make my way down past the Dobrá Čajovna (Good Teahouse) and then through the picturesque streets down to the main Staroměstské Náměstí, (Old Town Square) famous for its bloody history and the Prague Orloj (Astronomical Clock). Installed in 1410, this is the third oldest astronomical clock in the world and still puts on a show every hour. Everyone loves this spectacle that never gets old. The best way to enjoy it is with a glass of Aperol from the bar directly opposite. One summer when there was a heatwave it was so hot tourists were offered to be ‘hosed’ by the staff; it was very funny.

Of course, there are many wonderful streets full of historical stories and significant places leading to the main Old Town Square, however, this yarn is not long enough to include all the delicious uniqueness concentrated in this city! In this heart of Prague, you can find something wonderful on every corner - from performing musicians, artists, art and craft shops, as well as very tacky souvenir shops which I despise passionately. Also, I still can’t get used to seeing Starbucks in this historical space. Prague is loved by many musicians and filmmakers - so bits of the streets keep popping out here and there and I always love seeing them!

So, here’s some highlights if you continue from the Old Town Square toward to Vltava River:

• The Old Jewish Cemetery - one of the largest of its kind in Europe. Plus, there’s the

Golem - a creature formed out of a lifeless substance such as dust or earth that is brought to life by ritual incantations and sequences of Hebrew letters. The Golem, brought into being by a human creator, becomes a helper, a companion, or a rescuer of an imperiled Jewish community • Faust House - one of the most mysterious houses in Prague located in Charles Square and the subject of ongoing legends. According to legend, the Devil took the resisting Faust to Hell by blasting a hole in the ceiling. The hole remains impossible to fix with every attempt being followed by the bricks falling out again. • The Tower of the Old Town Bridge, a Gothic monument’ designed by the renowned German-Czech architect, Petr Parléř. Construction of the Tower began in 1357, during the rule of the Emperor Charles IV.

• The Charles Bridge, the oldest bridge still standing over the Vltava River and the second oldest in Czech. The Emperor, Charles IV had it built in 1357, after the previous bridge, the Judith Bridge, had been destroyed by floods in 1342. Construction of the bridge was under the supervision of Petr Parléě, and was completed in 1402. The bridge was known formerly as the ‘Stone’, or ‘Prague’ Bridge and has been called the ‘Charles Bridge’ only since 1870. • On the Bridge rests the statue of St. John of Nepomuk; a statue with huge religious meaning as it immortalizes the memory of Jan Nepomucký (John of Nepomuk), one of the most significant Czech saints. According to a legend, he was tortured to death after he refused to give away the confessional secret of the Queen. His tongue allegedly stayed preserved for hundreds of years after his death. Many people believe that it brings luck if you touch the statue.

Having reached the Charles Bridge, another exploration awaits – ‘Little Venice’! On the Lesser Town side of the Bridge there is what seems to be a smaller river, called the ěertovka Inlet (Devil’s Inlet). Where this inlet goes under Bridge is what is called Little Venice – a very picturesque area where you can explore or join a boat tour.

To get there, it is usual to take one of two routes: walking through what is called Kampa Island and you come under the Bridge, or you come from the Castle along the riverside to get to the Bridge. Here you can see a water wheel in the distance. If you head towards it and cross the adjacent little bridge, you will be taken to the famous ‘John Lennon’ Wall. Since the 1980s, this wall has been filled with graffiti, inspired by Lennon, lyrics from Beatles’ songs, and designs relating to local and global causes.

Leaving the Charles Bridge, the road is decorated with richly coloured houses that, unusually, have symbols instead of house numbers, like house at ‘The Three Fiddles’ in Malá Strana. The road continues uphill to the Prague Castle, built in the 9th Century and now the Official Office of the President of the Republic. The Castle was a seat of power for Kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman Emperors, and Presidents of Czechoslovakia.

An interesting digression is the story tour guides often will tell tourists that: ‘The amazing lights that illuminate Prague Castle were paid for by the Rolling Stones in 1990 as part of their Urban Jungle Tour’. This tour was the first big cultural event in Czech after the Velvet Revolution in 1989. The concert was advertised with the slogan: ‘The tanks are rolling out; the Stones are rolling in’! The Stones waived their fees and suggested the proceeds go to charity. Also, on this tour they developed a close friendship with Czech President, Václav Havel. The truth, however, is the Stones paid to modernize the lighting in the Representational Rooms of the Castle in 1995 during their Voodoo Lounge Tour!

Still within the Castle grounds is St. Vitus Cathedral - the largest and most important church in Prague. Apart from religious services, coronations of Czech kings and queens also took place here. Additionally, it is the last resting place of several patron saints, sovereigns, noblemen and archbishops.

Also, within the Castle complex is the famous ‘Golden Lane’, a small alley whose claim to fame is because of Frans Kaf ka and the Alchemists! Kaf ka, the famous German-speaking novelist, lived there for some time. Alchemists were believed to have lived there during the reign of Rudolf II whilst trying to change base metals into noble metals. However, although Golden Lane was known as ‘Alchemist Lane’, alchemists never lived there. The name ‘Golden Lane’ was derived from the goldsmiths who resided in the alley for some time during the seventeenth century.

Next, situated just a few minutes’ walk from Prague Castle, is the quarter called ‘New World’ which consists of winding streets and small houses dating back to the Middle Ages. Thanks to its location, New World has maintained its character for several centuries. In 1600 the famous Danish astronomer and mathematician, Tycho de Brahe who was friends and also collaborated with Johann Kepler lived in the house called ‘At The Golden Griffin’. For some time, the house ‘At the Golden Acorn’ belonged to the Santini family, one of whom was the Baroque architectural genius, Jan Blažej Santini, who designed quite a few Baroque gems, like the UNESCO site at Zelená Hora near Žeár nad Sázavou. In addition, the artist Jan Zrzavý also resided in New World for several years.

Located near the Castle, is the Strahov Monastery, particularly famous for its splendidly furnished Baroque library. It is considered to be one of the most valuable and bestpreserved historical libraries. The library contains over 200,000 volumes, 3000 original manuscripts from the Middle Ages, artifacts, first prints, manuscripts, and curiosities. It consists mainly of the three halls: Theology Hall, Philosophical Hall and Cabinet of Curiosities. Additionally, the monastery houses an important painting gallery with one of the most valuable monastery collections in Central Europe. The collection consists of about 1,500 paintings and other exhibits from the Gothic and Romantic periods. The Monastery is also home to a brewery that has been brewing beer since the 13th century.

The “Dancing House” is set on a property of great historical significance. Its site was the location of a house destroyed by the U.S. bombing of Prague in 1945.

At this point, it is worth drawing attention to the significance of Charles IV, who in Czech, generally is regarded as the ‘Father of the Country’. This highly influential King and Emperor left a legacy, both tangible and intangible, that dwarfs that of any other ruler of this Country. Charles was under tremendous pressure to relocate to Rome, traditionally the seat of the Holy Roman Empire. He steadfastly refused to move, even upon the entreaties of his good friend, Petrarch. He was responsible for much of the building work on Prague Castle and St. Vitus’ Cathedral with his prize architect, Petr Parleř.

Charles was obsessed with collecting holy relics, and when he founded a church, would donate one or more relics. Around Easter he would hold an annual event in Charles Square, at a church that no longer exists, where holy relics would be displayed to massive crowds said to be of many thousands of people.

Now to my personal favourite - the Rašínovo Náběeží Embankment, currently the most attractive and liveliest venue on the banks of the river in downtown Prague. Here you get a beautiful view of the Hraděany Castle panorama. Also, the Rašínovo Embankment offers a whole gamut of activities throughout the year - ranging from regular farmers’ markets, to sports, cultural and gastronomy events. Vaults in the wall of the River Embankment that originally were used for ice storage, have been renovated and now house shops, galleries, cafés, and bars.

Simply Prague is packed with bars, clubs and cafes, many of them secret, so you need to know someone like my mate, Luboš, who is the best for pub crawls. The classical theatre and music scene is still very vibrant; even Mozart decided to write an opera for Prague after the local audience responded to his Le Nozze di Figaro with a far greater verve than their counterparts elsewhere. ‘My Praguers understand me’ Mozart said – and indeed they did.

Finally, I should mention the Obecní Dům (Municipal House). This Art Nouveau building, built from 1905 to 1911, is proof of the continuation of the unprecedented artistic and craft skills and quality. It’s also great for a quiet coffee.

The History of Prague

An introduction to Prague would be incomplete without a summary of the City’s The city of Prague has had a glorious journey from being just a settlement in Vyšehrad, to one of the most loved cities in Europe.

4000 BC

Before the arrival of the Slavs, certain regions of Prague were inhabited by Celtic and German tribes. The name Bohemia came from the Celtic Tribe called ‘Boii’- a name still used today for the western part of the Czech Republic.

6th Century

During this period, two Slavic tribes inhabited both sides of the Vltava River. The Czechs and the Zlicanis built wooden fortresses on their sides, but were not at peace for long, as the nomadic Avars marched-in to takeover and rule the area. However, when the Frankish trader, Samo united both Slavic tribes, the Avars eventually were driven out.

9th - 13th Centuries

Prague was part of the short-lived ‘Great Moravian Empire’, until the Czechs finally broke away. Around the 870’s, Prince Boěivoj built the Prague Castle. Soon after this, the area around the Castle flourished into an important trading centre, whereby all the merchants from Europe came together. In 1085, Vratislav II became the first Czech King. In 1170, the first stone bridge was built over the Vltava River. Otakar became King and granted royal privileges to Staré Město (the Old Town), and in 1257 Malá Strana (the Lesser Town) came into existence under Otakar II.

14th Century – Golden Age

In 1310 the Holy Roman Emperor, John of Luxembourg, became King of Bohemia and the city bloomed under the Luxembourg Dynasty.

During the reign of Charles IV, Prague became one of Europe’s largest and wealthiest cities. Around 1320, Hraděany, was established, and in 1338 the Old Town Hall was built. In 1342, the Judith Bridge collapsed in a flood. It was replaced by the Charles Bridge in 1357. In 1348, Nové Město (New Town) was founded and the Charles University, the first University in Central Europe, established. In 1355, Charles IV was elected as the Holy Emperor and Prague became the capital of the Holy Roman Empire.

15th Century – Hussite Revolution

The 15th Century is marked by religious conflicts in Bohemia between the Roman Catholic Church and the Hussites. This was caused by Jan Hus’s Church Reform Movement which eventually led to his conviction and his death, provoking the Hussite preacher, Jan Želivský, to rebel. Catholic councillors were thrown down from the New Town Hall and Prague was then ruled by certain Hussite Committees. Many historical monuments were destroyed, and Prague Castle was damaged as well.

16th Century – Habsburg Rule

In 1526, the Habsburg Dynasty ruled over Prague and Prague Castle was reconstructed. In 1575, Rudolf II was crowned as the Holy Emperor. During this period, Prague evolved as the Centre of Science and Alchemy, and was nicknamed “Magic Prague”. Many famous scientists were attracted to Prague during this time. Also, following the fire in 1541, Hraděany and Malá Strana were rebuilt and much of the beautiful architecture remains to this present day.

17th Century – Dark Age

The Dark Age began in the 17th Century with uprising protests from the year 1618 with the ‘Second Defenestration of Prague’ when two Habsburg Councillors and their Secretary were thrown down from Prague Castle. This led to the ‘Thirty Years War’ that harmed much of Europe, and particularly Bohemia, where many people died.

In 1620, the Battle of White Mountain took place, and the Protestants were defeated, leading to the loss of Prague’s independence. In 1648, Saxons occupied Prague and Swedes moved into Hraděany and Malá Strana. Other areas were damaged and the population in the city declined by more than 50%.

18th Century

In 1784 under the rule of Joseph II, Prague was divided into four independent urban areas: Staré Město (Old Town); Malá Strana (Lesser Town); Nové Město (New Town); and Hraděany. During this time, the National Revival, a nationalist Czech movement began and this brought the Czech language, culture and identity back into existence.

19th Century – the Industrial Revolution

The Industrial Revolution boomed in Prague. Many industries were established during this period. In 1845, a railway was started that connected Prague with Vienna. In 1850, Josefov was recognised as one of the historical centres of Prague. The National Theatre was opened in 1868, and in 1890, the National Museum was established. The city also experienced a rise in population.

Prague became the capital of independent Czechoslovakia after the fall of the Austro- Hungarian Empire in 1918, while Prague Castle was the place for the first President of Czechoslovakia, Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk. In between World War I and World War II, Prague became closer to Paris. However, during World War II, Prague was occupied by Nazi Germany. After the war, Czechoslovakia was re-established as an independent state, and Sudeten Germans were thrown out and sent back to Germany and Austria.

In 1946 the communists (KSě) became the dominant party and formed a coalition Government with other socialist parties. In 1948, the communists seized power and many democrats fled the country. In the 1950’s, the Country suffered harsh repression and decline; Stalin- style practices adopted by the KSě (Communist Party of Czechoslovakia) proving to be more damaging than anything.

DAY 19 POETRY

I HADN’T TOLD THEM ABOUT YOU Nizar Qabbani

I hadn’t told them about you. But they saw you bathing in my eyes. I hadn’t told them about you. But they saw you in my written words. The perfume of love cannot be concealed.

I LIVE IN YOUR EYES Farouk Goweedah

I Live in Your Eyes She said: My Love, You will forget me And you will forget one day, that I, Have granted you my heart And you will adore another wave And you will leave my beaches warmth And you will sit, as we used to To listen to some other tones And you will not care for my sorrows And my name will fall as hope And my address will get lost So, my Love, will you say That you (once) loved me!? So, I said: Your love is my faith My forgiveness and my disobedience I met you with hope Remaining in my arms Like spring without a bird. On the ruins of a garden, The winds of sadness squeezed me Driving out the air in my chest I Love You like an oasis On which all my sorrows have calmed down I Love You like an aura that tells My songs to people’s silence I Love You like ecstasy that runs