INSIDE BACKPACKER / ESSENTIALS
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AUSTRALIA/NZ
GLOBAL
SCANDINAVIA
Elinor Sheargold
RING IN SPRING
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GETAWAYS
TOP DEALS IN OZ & NZ
WHIRLWIND WHITSUNDAYS ◆ TWO BUCKET LIST ITEMS IN TWO DAYS
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Cover:Cameron Cope
Backpacker Essentials is the member magazine for YHA Australia. Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the Association. No material may be reproduced without prior permission from the editor. All travel prices are subject to change and conditions apply. All hostel prices are YHA member rates and are subject to change. © YHA Australia ISSN 1328-6749. ®YHA Australia, Hostelling International and YHA house and tree logos are Registered Trademarks of YHA Australia Inc., PO Box A2462, Sydney South NSW 1235
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COUNTRY-HOPPING
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BEACH OR BUSH
TWO OF THE BEST IN NSW
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WHAT'S ON
AUSTRALIA/NZ EVENTS
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DECO DAZZLE ART DECO TRAILS NZ
VOL 18 / No 4 AUGUST 2014 MANAGING EDITOR Janet McGarry DEPUTY EDITOR Elinor Sheargold NEW ZEALAND EDITOR Brindi Joy YHA CONTRIBUTORS Christina Harris Annalese Greiner Tanya Heuke Francois LaJoie ART DIRECTOR Dan Morley GRAPHIC DESIGN Elinor Sheargold Nicolas Chua
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES The Editor, Backpacker Essentials, GPO Box 5276, Sydney NSW 2001. T: +61 2 9261 1111 F: +61 2 9261 1969 E: backpackeressentials@ yha.com.au
YOUR YHA YHA NEWS FOR MEMBERS IN AUSTRALIA
CELEBRATING 75 YEARS OF YHA IN AUSTRALIA Looking back at the twentieth century, it is easy to be overwhelmed by its destructive wars, bitter ideological divides and racial conflicts. However, lesser known are the many movements of idealism that also sprang up, often arising from the ashes of the former. This includes organisations set up to improve health and education, protect the environment and work towards world peace. One of these was the youth hostel movement that, this year, is celebrating 75 years since being founded in Australia. The day after Prime Minister Menzies declared that Australia was at war with Germany, an audacious group of optimists forged ahead with establishing a youth hostel movement here. The inaugural public meeting of the Youth Hostels Association (now simply ‘YHA’) took place on 4 September 1939 at Melbourne Town Hall. Undeterred, maybe even spurred on by, the outbreak of World War II, the co-founders of the youth hostel movement in Australia, Dr Alex Scholes (originally a New Zealander) and Dr Fritz Duras (originally a German), pushed on with establishing a network of hostels for young people Warrandyte YHA, Australia's to experience new places and people. These very first YHA was established in two visionaries brought together a group of 150 September 1939 in Victoria. representatives of various organisations to the first meeting of YHA, including the National Fitness Council, The YMCA, YWCA, Boy Scouts and Girl Guides. Soon afterwards, a site was secured for the first Australian youth hostel, at Warrandyte, on the outskirts of Melbourne. 1909
THEN AND NOW
ALTENA CASTLE YHA
2014
The global youth hostel movement had actually begun thirty years earlier in Europe, in 1909, when a German school teacher, Richard Schirrmann, first conceived of the idea of a “classroom of the outdoors”. Each year, 26 August is still celebrated by the youth hostel movement as a founding day. It celebrates the first overnight excursion by Schirrmann’s students took place, 105 years ago, staying in an empty school building, on straw bedding provided by a farmer. The world’s first permanent youth hostel was established soon after, at Altena Castle in Germany and still exists.
FROM THAT FIRST YOUTH HOSTEL, THE ORGANISATION NOW ENCOMPASSES OVER 4,000 PLACES TO STAY IN 90 COUNTRIES WORLDWIDE, AS PART OF THE YHA/HOSTELLING INTERNATIONAL (HI) NETWORK, INCLUDING NEARLY 100 HOSTELS IN AUSTRALIA.
Orange shaded areas on world map denote hostel locations
Orange shaded areas on world map denote YHA/ Hostelling International hostel locations
As a not-for-profit organisation, YHA remains true to its original mission: “To provide opportunity for all, but especially young people, for education by personal development, fostering friendship and bringing about a better understanding of others and the world around them.� YHA continues this objective today by providing safe, clean and friendly accommodation for travellers throughout Australia and the world. The focus is still on providing not just a bed for the night, but also on connecting communities of travellers, through shared areas in the hostels (such as kitchens, dining rooms and lounge rooms) and shared forums to interact with like minded travellers (such as websites). The original hostel at Warrandyte may be long gone, but in its place are many other unique hostels, such as Apollo Bay Eco YHA on the Great Ocean Road in Victoria, and Hawkesbury Heights YHA in the lower Blue Mountains in NSW. YHA even has a fund to raise money for the development of small hostels such as these. Find out more at yha.com.au
Backpacker image: Carlo Dapino Shutterstock
BUILDING MEMORIES YHA does not just build hostels, but also memories in the minds of our members. We hope that you have fond memories of your YHA stays over the years. A donation of money or a bequest is a wonderful way to support worthwhile organisations such as YHA. Your generosity will make a genuine difference, and we would like to thank all our supporters, past, present and future.
AUSTRALIA/ NZ IN SEASON / NEWS / YOUR SAY
TIME FOR A
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/ IN SEASON
SPRING IS IN THE AIR Spring is in the air, inviting you to rediscover the great outdoors and tuck into a bumper crop of events celebrating the best of the season, from petals to plate. Skip to the What’s On section of this issue for a range of tasty treats coming up in Australia and New Zealand, or snap up one of this season’s great-value wine and indulgence deals. Nature will also be putting on a show with Western Australia’s rugged landscape ablaze with the scent and vibrant colour of one of the most dazzling wildflower displays in the world. In August, Kalbarri National Park becomes a 186,000-hectare kaleidoscope of banksias, grevilleas, kangaroo paws, flowering eucalypts and paperbark blossoms. September sees Esperence, Denmark, Albany and Margaret River spring to life with delicate dainty orchids, milkmaids, honeypots and mountain bells. Cold climate bulbs are the order of the day in Canberra, when more than one million blooms come alive for Floriade, the largest flower festival in the Southern Hemisphere. Follow the flower trails, cheer on the floral gown competition, join a workshop and don’t miss Nightfest – a five night fiesta from 24-28 September with light shows, markets and music under the moonlight. Visit yha.com.au or yha.co.nz to book your spring break. Read on to see how you could win a Spring Getaway in New Zealand.
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/ NEWS
DO YOU WANT TO BUILD A SNOWMAN? They’re calling it snowpocalypse! Australia’s top alpine ski resort, Thredbo, is experiencing the biggest and best ski season in decades, and the good news is it’s not too late to have a snow holiday without breaking the bank. A two-night weekend stay starts from AU$192 per person during peak season and we’ll throw in the million-dollar views, Wednesday movies, Friday outdoor fire, and Sunday gluhwein for free. Or, you could snap up sensational shoulder season rates from 29 August to 6 October, priced from $114 per person (2 nights weekend) and even cheaper mid-week. Visit yha.com.au From the multi-resort runs of adventure towns Queenstown and Wanaka, to the geothermal village of Hanmer Springs, and the unique experience of skiing on a volcano in Ohakune, New Zealand is the ultimate in Down Under ski experiences. YHA New Zealand has 12 great snow hostels located near some of the country’s best slopes on both the South and North Islands. Visit yha.co.nz
NEW-LOOK HUNTER VALLEY YHA Hunter Valley YHA has been closed for major renovations since early May. After two months of hard work and anticipation, they are back in business! The hostel now has a whole new look, including a brand new kitchen, communal bathrooms, BBQ area, dorm rooms, matched with a refreshed lounge room/dining area with new furniture. Next up, they will be developing two new family ensuite rooms and a new reception area during Spring. Book online at yha.com.au Check out Hunter Valley YHA’s special offers
RAILWAY SQUARE YHA REACHES DOUBLE DIGITS! Congratulations to Sydney’s Railway Square YHA, which celebrated its 10th birthday on 16 July 2014. The popular Sydney hostel is best known for its fresh and urban style, great cafe coffee, and much-photographed railway carriage dorms. The superconvenient location, right next door to Sydney Central Railway Station, makes it a perfect base for Sydney’s many events and attractions. Book online at yha.com.au
/ YOUR SAY BYRON BAY YHA u +61 2 6685 8853
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NOMINATED BY HANNAH RIFKIN, NSW My friends and I recently spent the weekend at Byron Bay YHA. Its sense of community and relaxed atmosphere made us feel right at home on our weekend getaway. The location was perfect – a block away from the town and a short walk from the lighthouse. The rooms and facilities were very clean and the staff were super friendly and helpful. I would definitely recommend Byron Bay YHA to anyone headed in that direction on their travels!
WIN!
Got a place to nominate? Want to win a great travel prize? Hannah will be receiving an Insight Travel Guide of her choice. For more information visit woodslaneonline.com.au. Tell us your favourite YHA (in less than 100 words) and send it, with your contact details, to backpackeressentials@yha.com.au
WIN A NEW ZEALAND SPRING GETAWAY Shake off the winter chill and discover the rich greens, vibrant blues, warming temperatures and longer days that mark New Zealand in springtime.
YHA New Zealand is giving you the chance to win a 3-night family spring break in one of five fabulous sringtime destinations; Rotorua, Wellington, Nelson, Wanaka, or Franz Josef. Simply jump onto the YHA New Zealand Facebook page and vote for the destination above that you'd most like to visit. Prize includes three nights' private accommodation for a family of up to four people. Competition opens 14 August 2014 and closes on 1 September 2014. Look out for the Enter to Win tab. Visit facebook.com/YHANewZealand to enter between 14 August - 1 September 2014.
GLOBAL NORWAY / DENMARK / SLOVENIA / 100 YEARS OF...
A I V A N I D N A C N S O I T A N DESTI FROM NORWAY TO DENMARK, THE LAND OF VIKINGS, FJORDS AND THOR WELCOMES THREE NEW YHAS
Bjørkehornet above Hjørundfjord in Norway o Havard Myklebust 2013
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/NOW OPEN
The Soča River and Julian Alps Shutterstock
TRONDHEIM, NORWAY Trondheim Vandrerhjem Rosenborg, as the name suggests, is located in Norway’s original capital, now its third largest city, Trondheim. The modern hostel offers spacious and light accommodation in shared, single and double/twin rooms with or without private bathrooms. Or, choose a selfcatering apartment. Breakfast is included as are a variety of facilities including two guest kitchens, two TV rooms, and (not to be outdone) two laundries, as well as airconditioning, tour desk, parking, and free WiFi. Located 1km from the historic centre of town (20-30 mins walk or take the nearby bus), the hostel is a great base to discover the river Nidelven, Trondheimsfjord, and this buzzing city, rich with history, museums, a lively student population, beauty and bikes. Get your bearings from the hostel’s scenic rooftop then hire a bike from reception and delve into one of the world’s most bike-friendly cities – don’t miss the Trondheim Trampe, the world’s first bicycle lift, which carries you uphill while still seated on your bike.
Check out the Trondheim Trampe
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ROSKILDE, DENMARK
HJORUNDFJORD, NORWAY Also opening in time for the Norwegian summer is Hjørundfjord Hostel in Bjørke village. Bjørke sits deep inside the epic Hjørundfjord in Norway’s western Ørsta region, surrounded by the jagged landscapes of the Sunnmøre Alps straight out of a fantasy novel. This undiscovered beauty spot entices you to explore its wilds and there is an incredible range of summer activities on offer; hiking, cycling, fishing, horse riding, and rock climbing, to name a few. The village has centuries-old agriculture and fishing industries and in town you’ll find postcard-pretty wooden buildings from the Middle Ages and burial sites dating back to the early Iron Age (600 AD). Scenically situated Hjørundfjord Hostel is a mere 100m from the fjord, and from April to September when the 32-bed hostel is open, you can relax in pleasant single or twin rooms after your outdoor adventures. All rooms boast ensuites, plus there’s WiFi, parking, a common room and kitchen to take advantage of. Breakfast is included, and you can pre order a packed lunch/dinner from the friendly folk at the hostel.
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Music fans will know it as home of one of the world’s biggest music festivals, the open-air Roskilde Festival (28 June – 5 July 2015), Denmark’s answer to Glastonbury. But you don’t have to be a festival fan to enjoy Roskilde. The former medieval capital of Denmark and Viking hotspot is justly famous for its attractive harbour, UNESCO-listed 12th C Cathedral, old shops, narrow squares, courtyards and cafes. Danhostel Roskilde is conveniently located on the pier, practically next door to Roskilde Harbour and the city’s main drawcard, the Viking Ship Museum, with its superb five Viking ships recovered from the local fjord. Guests can choose from 40 shared or private 1-6 bed rooms, each with their own ensuite bathroom and TV, and all decorated to represent historical and cultural themes. The hostel can provide a breakfast buffet and pre-ordered packed lunches, plus there is WiFi, laundry, and nearby free public parking.
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/NOW OPEN Lying where the Alps meet the Mediterranean, pint-sized Slovenia is home to more than its fair share of formidable castles, picturesque alpine villages, Venetian fishing towns and fairytale landscapes. It’s also home to a new YHA in the compact but cosmopolitan capital, Lujubljana. Located in a 140 year-old Vienna-style villa next to the city’s green lung, Tivoli Park, Hostel Vila Veselova offers spacious 8, 6 and 4-share rooms, a sought-after double room and 4-bed apartment. Breakfast, WiFi, coffee/tea and smiles are free, as is the outdoor garden. An essential stop between Vienna and Venice, Ljubljana’s café culture, alternative Metelkova district, medieval hilltop castle, cultural hotspots, famous bridges and river are all within walking distance. The hostel also organises trips around Slovenia around Slovenia including to the Adriatic coastline, Lakes Bled and Bohinj, Postojna and Skocjan Caves, Maribor and many more.
Arne Hodali Ljubljana Tourism
LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA
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YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK - 150 YEARS
On 30 June 1864, in the midst of the Civil War, President Abraham Lincoln signed the Yosemite Grant, the first land grant to protect wild lands for the enjoyment of the people. While it’s American cousin, Yellowstone, can technically claim to be the world’s first national park (designated as such in 1872), the Yosemite Grant arguably set the idea in motion. To mark the anniversary of this ground breaking legislation, over 100 events are planned amongst the deep valleys, grand waterfalls, peaceful meadows, ancient sequoias and great granite mountains of California’s Yosemite throughout 2014. nps.gov/yose/anniversary
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/NEWS
/CELEBRATING A CENTURY
100 YEARS OF COMMERCIAL FLIGHT This year marks 100 years since the very first commercial passenger flight took flight. On 1 January 1914, American pilot Tony Janus shuttled his sole paying passenger, Abram C. Pheil, across the bay from St. Petersburg (Florida not Russia) to Tampa. The flight, in a bi-wing Benoist airboat took only 23 minutes, but it would transform the world. Today, more than three billion people fly each year thanks to the modern miracle of commercial aviation, and 50 million tonnes of cargo is transported by air. Throughout 2014, both the history and future of flying will be celebrated. As part of the year-long centenary celebrations, another Amelia Earhart (named after the pioneering pilot of the same name) will take to the skies, to recreate her namesake’s 1937 attempted circumnavigation of the globe. More information at flying100years.com
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THE PAST CENTURY HAS SEEN MANY TRIUMPHS AND TRAGEDIES. IN AUGUST 2014, THE WORLD WILL COMMEMORATE 100 YEARS SINCE THE OUTBREAK OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR. WE LOOK AT SOME OTHER IMPORTANT ANNIVERSARIES IN 2014 MARKING EVENTS THAT CHANGED THE COURSE OF HISTORY AND, IN PARTICULAR, TRAVEL.
One of the engineering wonders of the world, the Panama Canal also celebrates its 100th birthday in 2014. On 15 August 1914, after 10 years of construction, the US opened the 80km Panama Canal linking the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. The canal spared traders a treacherous 20-day, 14,000km journey around South America’s Cape Horn, cutting travel time down to a mere 8-12 hours transit across the continental divide. This feat of engineering is worth a visit, centenary or not. If you’re not cruising through the canal, the one hour Panama Canal Railway ride runs along the waterway between the capital Panama City and Colon. There are also three visitor centres that allow you to see the canal in action from viewing platforms, panoramic restaurants and observation decks. To celebrate clocking up 100 years, the canal is undergoing a US$5 billion upgrade, with wider lanes, bigger ports and new locks, that promise to double the canal’s capacity by 2015.
B. Franklin Shutterstock
PANAMA CANAL TURNS 100
Watch the Miraflores or Gatun locks in action via the canal's live webcams
Visit 100yearspanamacanal.com
/CELEBRATING A CENTURY ANCHORAGE, ALASKA
Maroon Bells, the most photographed spot in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains Shutterstock
ROCKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK, COLORADO, USA Yosemite’s not the only American national park clocking up a big birthday. Colorado’s Rocky Mountains National Park hits triple digits and will be celebrating for a full two years, from September 2014 to 2015, with speakers, special activities and community events all on the calendar. Covering 415 square miles (approx.1075km2) in north central Colorado, the wilderness, wildlife and wonders of the national park can be enjoyed via the park’s many activities including (but are not limited to) hiking, biking, climbing, wildlife viewing, horse riding, scenic drives, and fishing. nps.gov.romo
It may not be the Alaskan capital – that honour goes to Juneau – but Anchorage is the economic and political heart of Alaska, and home to nearly half the state’s population. In 2014, Anchorage celebrates 100 years since its humble beginnings as a workers camp for the Alaska Railroad. Despite being headquarters for the Prudhoe Bay oil boom, Anchorage is still very much a frontier city, where the natural world is never far away. Moose, bears, wolves, and beluga whales thrillingly all live within the city’s limits and on a clear day you can glimpse Mt McKinley (aka Denali), the highest mountain peak in North America. anchoragecentennial.org
It may be hard to believe, but if you venture to the impossibly pretty Engadine St Moritz region in Switzerland’s far eastern corner you’ll find a world that hasn’t changed for 100 years. A century ago, visionaries founded the Swiss National Park, creating a unique natural sanctuary covering 170 square km. Here nature has been left to its own devices without human interference – not even during forest fires in 1951. Today, the Park is a piece of primeval wilderness (not to mention a conservation success story and ‘field laboratory’) protecting over 5,000 species of animal and a rich variety of flora and flowering plant species. Events to celebrate this environmental milestone are planned throughout 2014. nationalpark.ch Check out YHA Switzerland's all-inclusive anniversary offer at their Pontresina and Scuol Hostels near Swiss National Park.
Switzerland Tourism
SWISS NATIONAL PARK, SWITZERLAND
FEATURE / WHITSUNDAYS
whirlwind
WHITSUNDAYS
Elinor Sheargold
TWO BUCKET LIST ITEMS IN TWO DAYS? ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE IN THE WHITSUNDAYS, WRITES ELINOR SHEARGOLD.
Nothing compares to a scenic flight over the Great Barrier Reef Whitsundays Marketing
ON A HIGH I first fell in love with The Whitsundays when I was 13. The photos in the calendar promised an aquatic arcadia of drowned mountain ranges fringed with castaway beaches, and coral reefs harbouring animals that seemed exotic beyond words. Of course, no photos compare to the real thing, especially when seen from the air. I told myself this as, 20 years later, I swallowed my fear of heights and boarded GSL Aviation’s fixed wing aircraft for a 60 minute scenic flight. I’d been surprised to find this bucket list experience could be snapped up for a not unreasonable AU$199. Everyone gets a window seat in the 8-seater aircraft and we were soon glued to them watching nature’s television below, oohing and aahing as we drew closer to the swirling white sands of Whitsunday Island’s iconic Hill Inlet and Whitehaven Beach. Of the 74 islands in the Whitsundays group only seven are developed, Whitsunday Island is happily not one of
Hill Inlet and Whitehaven aerial.
them and its white sands and emerald water are all the more dramatic against the backdrop of untouched forest. But this was just a teaser. One of the seven natural wonders of the world and the largest living structure on earth, The Great Barrier Reef covers over 2,000km from the tip of Cape York south to Bundaberg. The stretch of Reef near the Whitsundays lies near its heart, and as I peered out my window the distant stains of colour on the sea transformed themselves into creamy reefs and azure lagoons marooned at the edge of the continental shelf. We circled Reefworld pontoon, which perched at the edge of Hardy Reef, accessed via the ribbon of deep blue channel that separated Hardy and Hook Reefs. Below, the expansive lagoon of Hardy Reef was littered with a rash of reef formations, its waters glinting teal to cyan to the lightest mint green in the shallows. Keep your eyes peeled for fleeting views of the reef’s romantic icon – Heart Reef – naturally formed into the shape of (you guessed it) a heart. As tropical paradises go, it’s a stunner. I couldn’t wait to get into it.
Heart Reef Elinor Sheargold
Elinor Sheargold, GSL Aviation
THE DISTANT STAINS OF COLOUR ON THE SEA TRANSFORMED THEMSELVES INTO CREAMY REEFS AND AZURE LAGOONS.
Step off the raft into an underwater world and a school of Yellowtails.
Ocean Rafting
WET AND WILD In a country with more than 10,500 beaches* Whitehaven Beach is regularly voted Australia’s (and one of the world’s) best. It comes as no surprise that its impossibly white sands are top of any Whitsundays wish list. Getting there is half the fun with Ocean Rafting, who operate daily tours out to Whitehaven Beach on their semi rigid inflatable rafts. Abandoning shoes, 26 of us climbed aboard the appropriately-named Wild Thing, the braver few opting to hang on to the sides. Skipper Sarah gunned the 500hp engine while our Eco Host for the day, Cam, hinted at what was to come. We set off noisily and Sarah deftly showed off some jet boat-like fishtails, dips and power brakes before heading into the Whitsunday Passage and towards the first stop. This is no leisurely cruise but travelling at speed means you get there sooner and have more time to enjoy the beach or snorkelling. As we drifted into secluded Mantaray Bay at the northern tip of Hook Island I felt a shiver of excitement. Only yesterday I had been flying over this bay imagining the underwater world below. Slipping into a lightweight stinger suit (to protect against sunburn as much as to avoid any late season jellyfish), I stepped off the raft and into a school of yellowtails. The humped forehead of an inquisitive wrasse glided past followed by a brilliant blue surgeonfish, like fashion models on a runway. Trailing the wrasse towards an outcrop of staghorn coral I became aware of the so-called “soundtrack of the reef” - the incessant snap, crackle and pop of fish feeding on the coral and unseen snapping shrimp. If you’re buoyancy challenged, noodles and life jackets are available to help you bob on the surface and enjoy the show below. Flippers are also free for more intrepid Cousteau types who want to glide through the water and cover larger areas.
DID YOU KNOW? GEOLOGISTS CAN’T BE SURE WHERE THE SILICA SAND ON WHITEHAVEN BEACH COMES FROM, ALTHOUGH THERE ARE SEVERAL UNPROVEN THEORIES, ONE BEING A SUNKEN VOLCANO!
*The University of Sydney Coastal Studies Unit has counted 10,685 Australian beaches longer than 20 metres. Tongue Point Lookout, Whitsunday Island; snorkelling with Wrasse; the white sands of Hill Inlet. Elinor Sheargold, Ocean Rafting
Ocean Rafting
Time goes fast when you’re underwater, and all too soon we were back on the raft on our way to Whitsunday Island while rhapsodising about the countless species we had seen: beaked parrotfish; anemones; yellow butterfly fish; a giant clam. It’s an easy 10 minute stroll through the forest of Whitsunday Island, the largest of the archipelago, to Tongue Point Lookout. As you reach it the forest dissolves and you’re greeted with a glorious palette of blues, aquas, greens and the startling white sands of Hill Inlet, with Whitehaven Beach beckoning in the distance. Ocean Rafting is the only tour operator with direct access to Hill Inlet, allowing you time to enjoy the views, rainforest and Inlet without feeling rushed. If you’re lucky, you might even spot rare estuarine stingrays amongst the tidal shifts. But it was Whitehaven that had brought us here, so while Sarah and Cam set out a buffet lunch (optional), we giddily disembarked at the southern end of the beach to revel in the famous white sands and see-through water. The secret to Whitehaven’s dazzling white sand is its 98% silica content, though how it got here is still something of a mystery. And while the reflective glare makes sunglasses a must, unlike regular sand it doesn’t retain heat. It felt luxurious to let the fine sand sift through my toes without having to hot foot it down to the glassy water. With a good hour or so on the beach, there was plenty of time to enjoy a post lunch swim, stroll some of the 7km long stretch of beach, or wander the Whitsunday National Park trails (there are facilities at Hill Inlet and Whitehaven). For me, it was enough to lie back and be tranquilised by the sun and scenery of this enigmatic beach.
Airlie Beach Lagoon. Elinor Sheargold
DOWN TO EARTH Divinely-situated Airlie Beach is the gateway to The Whitsundays and a great base for exploring the region. Despite a multi-million dollar cosmopolitan revamp of the town centre Airlie retains its village vibe, though now you’ll find as many gourmet eats as backpacker bars. Among them is the excellent Denman Cellars. This bottle shop-café-tapas bar stocks more than 1,200 beers and ciders from around the world (though its fridges can only handle 700 at a time). The waterfront is not yet overdeveloped and a wander along the foreshore brings you to Airlie’s man-made lagoon. A focal point of the town, the lagoon is an oasis of palm trees, sandy beaches, water as clear as a caipirinha, and grassy embankments overlooking the Coral Sea. It’s possible (and highly recommended) to walk, cycle or even segway along the 3.7km Bicentennial Boardwalk that winds from the lagoon to the beachside suburb of Cannonvale, passing Abel Point Marina and Shingley Beach. Here, you’ll find Whitsunday Standup Paddle. If you have ever wanted to try the SUP craze there are few better places. Sheltered from ocean waves and undertows by the Great Barrier Reef, the waters of The Whitsundays make for a gentle initiation to pretty much any water sport you can think of. Jet ski, kayak, sailing, snorkelling, diving – it’s all here in The Whitsundays.
The writer was a guest of Tigerair Australia and Whitsundays Marketing
GOT MORE TIME? Daydream Island Living Reef Take a boat across to Daydream Island, the closest inhabited island to Airlie Beach, to visit the world’s largest open-air aquarium. This microcosm of the Great Barrier Reef allows you to hand feed and walk among resident stingrays, sharks and barramundi. Twilight Sailing The Whitsunday Sailing Club offers twilight yacht racing every Wednesday from 3-7pm. Yachts are often short of crew and volunteers are welcome. Turn up at the Sailing Club at 3pm and you’re likely to join a crew, even if you’re a novice sailor. Afterwards, gather at the club for results over a tasty dinner on the balcony as the sun sets on the Coral Sea. Reefworld Reefworld pontoons at Hardy Reef and Knuckle Reef offer a range of activities on and in The Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. Snorkelling gear is provided, and if you want to see the best of the reef you can take a guided reef safari, introductory or certified dive. If you prefer to keep your feet dry, the pontoons have underwater viewing chambers as well as semi-submersible submarines. Jet Pack or Flyboard Strap a jet pack on your back and soar through the air James Bond-style, or if Back to the Future is more your style, ride the waves on a skateboard-like flyboard. Airlie Beach is one of the few places in Australia (and arguably the most beautiful) where you can experience these adrenaline activities. It’s not cheap but neither are the thrills.
WHERE TO STAY
BOOK NOW
Airlie Beach YHA is located on the main street of town, saving you an uphill walk. Ask about tours and discounts at reception.
AIRLIE BEACH YHA ◆ +61 7 4946 6312 ◆ airliebeach@yha.com.au ◆ yha.com.au
KEY FACTS Ocean Rafting offers two tours depending whether you want more time snorkelling or on the beach. Priced AU$134. Optional extras: lunch, drinks, stinger suit, photo/ video pack. Includes transfers from Airlie Beach. GSL Aviation’s Islands and Reef scenic flight (60 mins) AU$199. Whitehaven Beach flight (25 mins) $99. Includes Airlie Beach transfers. Whitsunday Stand Up Paddle runs 2.5 hour tours at 9.30am and 1pm daily for AU$75. Includes photos, stinger suit hire, instruction and free paddle time. Tigerair flies direct from Sydney to Whitsundays Coast Airport (Proserpine) three times a week from AU$84.95, and Melbourne to Mackay from $76.95. Whitsundays 2 Everywhere airport transfers to Airlie Beach from AU$18 one-way and $35 return.
YHA DEALS WHITSUNDAYS FLY & CRUISE
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◆ 1 night multi-share at Airlie Beach YHA ◆ 60 minute scenic flight ◆ Full day ocean rafting including lunch Priced at AU$344. Departs daily. Valid to 31 March 2015.
Ocean Rafting semi rigid inflatable rafts at Hill Inlet. Ocean Rafting
DEALS
YHA DEALS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
SATC, Legendary Pacific Coast, Milton Wordley
YHA GETAWAYS
HUNTER VALLEY - VINO IN THE VALLEY DEALS
YARRA VALLEY ADVENTURE
Leave the driving to someone else so you can fully enjoy the scenery, sippings and socialising. Wine, cheese, chocolate and more – the NSW Hunter region has it all! Choose from:
Victoria’s prestigious Yarra Valley region is loved for its top-shelf produce and finely crafted vintages. This indulgent experience includes:
Hunter Valley Grape Escape u 2 nights’ multi-share or double/twin at Hunter Valley YHA u Full day wine tour visiting at least 6 wineries + olives, cheese and chocolate tastings Priced from AU$108 per person multi-share and from $253 per double/twin room. Prices change 1 October 2014. Hunter Valley Overnight Experience u 1 night's accommodation at Hunter Valley YHA u Hunter Valley vineyards tour including tastings and lunch (woodfired pizza and glass of wine) u Return transfers ex Sydney Priced at AU$165 per person. Valid to 31 March 2015.
HUNTER VALLEY YHA u u
+61 2 4991 3278 huntervalley@yha.com.au
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u
u u
2 nights' multi-share at Melbourne Metro YHA Full day Yarra Valley Tour visiting 4 wineries + samplings at local producers including chocolaterie, dairy, organic orchard, brewery, butcher, and candy mongers 3-course gourmet lunch with matching wines Transfers from YHA
Priced from AU$176 per person. Valid to 31 March 2015.
MELBOURNE METRO YHA u
+61 3 9329 8599
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melbmetro@yha.com.au
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TASTE THE BAROSSA
SWAN VALLEY TOUR
Head through the scenic Adelaide Hills to one of the world’s premier wine regions. Highlights of this fullday Barossa Valley wine tour include a sumptuous lunch of gourmet local produce at Peter Lehmann Wines and a visit to the famous Whispering Wall. Package includes:
While you’re in Perth, don’t miss the chance to indulge in some of the West’s best treats with this full day tour through the beautiful Swan Valley. Highlights include visits to 5 wineries, historic Guildford town, beer sampling, cheese, chocolate and truffle tasting, and a gourmet platter lunch. Tour priced at AU$110 p.p. Valid to 31 December 2014. YHA accommodation from $33 p.p multishare and from $90 per double room.
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Priced AU$94 per person. Valid to 31 March 2015. Enjoy the best of both worlds and explore Adelaide’s city attractions. Book accommodation at the same time as your deal. Prices from AU$27 per person multi-share.
ADELAIDE CENTRAL YHA u
+61 8 8414 3010
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PERTH CITY YHA u
+61 8 9287 3333
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perthcity@yha.com.au
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Arts Projects Australia
Shutterstock. Out & About Wine Tours
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Full-day Taste the Barossa Wine Premium Tour (departs from the YHA) Entry to four Barossa wineries and gourmet lunch
WOMADELAIDE EARLYBIRD DEAL Don't miss the ever-entertaining WOMADelaide celebration of world music, dance, visual arts and culturally diverse performances, from 6-9 March 2015. Adelaide YHA's earlybird deal saves you a massive $92! Deal includes: u u
3 nights at Adelaide Central YHA including simple breakfast daily 4-day Womadelaide Pass
Priced from AU$390 per person mulit-share save $92, and from $426 per person double/twin room ($852 for two people). Get in quick.
ADELAIDE CENTRAL YHA u
+61 8 8414 3010
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adlcentral@yha.com.au
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NEW ZEALAND NORTHLAND ESCAPE Explore New Zealand’s Northland by land and sea. Enjoy a fullday tour driving off-road on Ninety Mile Beach, experiencing the thrills and spills of sand-boarding down massive sand dunes. Then visit Cape Reinga lighthouse where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. The next day, cruise the glorious Bay of Islands, spotting dolphins en route to the famous Hole in the Rock and enjoy 3600 views from the top of Urupukapuka Island. This deal brings together the best of Northland, including: u u u
2 nights’ multi-share ensuite accommodation at YHA Bay of Islands Paihia Full day Cape Reinga tour. Depart/return from Paihia Half day dolphin cruise to the Hole in the Rock. Depart/return Paihia
Discover the delights of world heritage-listed Daintree Rainforest from the relaxed coastal village of Port Douglas. Go croc spotting on a Daintree River cruise, visit Mossman Gorge and enjoy a traditional Indigenous cultural experience. u 2 nights’ multi-share accommodation at Port Douglas YHA u Full day tour to Cape Tribulation including Daintree Rainforest river cruise u WiFi during your YHA stay u Return transfers from Cairns to Port Douglas (Sun to Fri, conditions apply) Price at AU$230 per person. Valid to 31 March 2015.
Priced from NZ$180 per person. Valid to 30 September 2014.
YHA BAY OF ISLANDS PAIHIA u
+64 9 402 7487
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bayofislands.paihia@yha.co.nz
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PORT DOUGLAS YHA OR CAIRNS CENTRAL YHA
VOLCANIC SKIING IN OHAKUNE Carve up the slopes of the North Island’s Mt Ruapehu – one of few ski fields in the world on an active volcano and home to some of New Zealand’s most awesome terrain. Rest your aching muscles in YHA Ohakune’s outdoor spa or in front of the fire. Package includes: u
YHA New Zealand
u u u
2 nights at YHA Ohakune 1-day gear rental: ski, boots & poles or snowboard and bindings Steaming cup of espresso/hot chocolate each day of your stay Use of YHA Ohakune’s drying room and outdoor spa pool
From NZ$74 per person multi-share. Valid to 31 October 2014. Sunday – Thursday only.
BOOK NOW YHA OHAKUNE u
+64 6 385 8797
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ohakune@yha.co.nz
Tourism & Events QLD
McLennan Intercity
PORT DOUGLAS & DAINTREE RAINFOREST ADVENTURE
CANBERRA SPRING FLING
Check out a slice of Australia’s famous surf culture at the interactive Islantis Surf Experience on Phillip Island. This unique experience of surfing's evolution comes complete with vintage boards and the first ever 3600 wrap around surf movie! Top off your stay by exploring Phillip Island’s rugged scenery or check out the Island’s cutest attractions at the nightly Penguin Parade. Package includes:
Ring in spring in the capital during the city’s justly famous Floriade Festival, when more than one million blooms come alive for the largest flower festival in the Southern Hemisphere. Turn to this issue’s what’s on section for more event info. Deal includes:
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2 nights' accommodation at Phillip Island YHA Entry into the Islantis Surf Museum $10 WiFi card
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2 nights' multi-share or double/twin accommodation at Canberra City YHA Daily breakfast at on-site Bytes Café 1 day bike hire to get around the Floriade and free Canberra sights 2 days WiFi
Priced from AU$100 per person multi-share and $230 per double/twin room (two people). Valid 13 September – 12 October 2014.
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Mention this deal at time of check in to redeem the offer! Prices starting from AU$27 per person. Valid to 30 September 2014.
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PHILLIP ISLAND SURF EXPERIENCE
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+61 3 5956 6123
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phillipisland@yha.com.au
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CANBERRA CITY YHA u
+61 2 6248 9155
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Tourism & Events QLD
PHILLIP ISLAND YHA
WHITSUNDAYS FLY & CRUISE PACKAGE Experience the best of the Whitsunday Islands from the sky and sea! Get a bird’s-eye view of Whitehaven Beach and the Great Barrier Reef on a one hour scenic flight, then jump on board an exhilarating Ocean Rafting trip to see the islands up close. Stop off at top snorkelling spots to discover the underwater world teeming with tropical fish, enjoy a guided bushwalk to Hill Inlet, and relax on the pure white silica sands of Whitehaven Beach. Package includes: u u u
1 night multi-share at Airlie Beach YHA 60 minute scenic flight over Whitsunday Islands & Reef Full day ocean rafting trip to Whitehaven Beach, plus snorkelling gear and lunch
AIRLIE BEACH YHA
Priced at AU$344 per person. Valid to 31 March 2015.
u
+61 7 4946 6312
Read this issue’s Whirlwind Whitsundays feature
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airliebeach@yha.com.au
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NEW ZEALAND HIT THE ROAD DEAL
BYRON BAY BREAK
Hitting the road for your New Zealand road trip has never been so easy. Travel at your own pace with this road-worthy deal that bundles affordable car hire with accommodation in the YHAs of your choice. Pre-book your whole itinerary (service fee applies) or book as you go. Package includes:
Kick-start your day with Byron Bay YHA’s Bed & Breakfast deal. Fuel up with a continental breakfast of cereal, toast, jam, juice and tea or coffee to get you going for a day of sun, surf, alternative culture and adventure activities. Available for all room types. 2 night minimum stay. Prices start from as little as AU$54 per person multi-share and from $140 per double/twin room (2 nights). Valid to 15 November 2014.
u u u
5 - 20 nights multi-share accommodation vouchers to redeem at any YHA in New Zealand 7 - 28 days car hire - you choose your vehicle Unlimited kilometres, low to no excess insurance
Pick up/drop off locations: Auckland, Wellington, Picton, Nelson, Christchurch, Queenstown.
YHA NEW ZEALAND u
0800 278 299 (NZ) 1800 242 191 (Aus)
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book@yha.co.nz
BYRON BAY YHA u
+ 61 2 6685 8853
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Elinor Sheargold
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YHA New Zealand
Priced from NZ$395 p.p for 7 day car hire/5 nights multi-share accommodation. Mix and match for longer car hire/YHA stay options. Valid to 30 September 2015.
BELLINGEN GONDWANALAND RAINFOREST DEAL Discover the beautiful World Heritage listed Dorrigo National Park's rainforest, waterfalls, flora and fauna from bohemian Bellingen. This deal includes: u u
2 nights' multi-share accommodation at Bellingen YHA Wednesday-only full-day guided tour to Dorrigo National Park including Skywalk, rainforest nature walk, Griffith Lookout, Dangar Falls walk and swim, and lunch stop in Dorrigo town (lunch not included).
BELLINGEN YHA
Priced from AU$89 per person. Valid to 30 September 2013. Dorrigo Tour operates on Wednesdays only.
u
+61 2 6655 1116
u
bellingen@yha.com.au
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MELBOURNE CITY BREAK With spring on the horizon Melbourne is celebrating with a calendar full of cultural events! During September soak up the city at its best at Melbourne Spring Fashion Week, the AFL Final Series, the Royal Melbourne Show or the Melbourne Fringe Festival. Package including: u u u
3 nights' accommodation at Melbourne Metro YHA 3 continental breakfasts A Myki card with value for one day on all public transport
Prices start from AU$120 per person in a 4 share dorm and $300 per double/twin room. Valid to 30 September 2014.
MELBOURNE METRO YHA u
+61 3 9329 8588
u
melbmetro@yha.com.au
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ART DECO e l z z da
FEATURE / NEW ZEALAND
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Alamy
Art Deco Trust Napier, New Zealand
DUSTING OFF HIS BROGUES, SLIPPING ON HIS PRESSED TROUSERS AND PANAMA HAT, PAUL RUSH STEPS OUT IN STYLE TO DISCOVER ART DECO NEW ZEALAND.
FASHIONABLE FOLK
turn out in hundreds driving vintage cars and pedalling penny farthing bicycles. The ladies stroll along Tennyson Street in fox-fur stoles and feather boas. Revellers sip Hawke’s Bay wines amidst the buildings’ ice-cream coloured façades of a bygone era. This is the beating heart of New Zealand’s Art Deco scene—Napier— and I’m in perfect character for the annual Art Deco Weekend. I’ve long had a love affair with this small North Island town’s architectural throwback to the 1930s. This was a time when our forebears faced hardship, a Depression and social change with a brave face while listening to jazz, watching Hollywood musicals and celebrating life. And the festival brings it back into full colour. Following a devastating 7.8 magnitude earthquake in 1931, Napier was rebuilt and recreated. I’m grateful the ‘new’ buildings were built in the architectural styles of the times as I too stroll Tennyson Street through a fusion of sights and sounds: guys in waistcoats and trousers, gals in ankle-length frocks and pavement vocalists competing with brass bands on each street corner. I slip away from the bustle and join an Art Deco city tour. Our group begins at the Municipal Theatre. Stepping inside there’s a fête of leaping nymph panels, chrome speed lines and neon lamps. The decor overwhelms me. The Daily Telegraph building is Napier’s most flamboyant and we study its sunbursts, zigzags, fountains and ziggurats like the tiered towers of the Babylonians. After dark I am drawn to the Colonnade, Sound Shell, Fountain and Pania of the Reef statue, which is an illuminated fantasy world. Inside Napier’s three city blocks – from Marine Parade to Clive Square, Tennyson, Emerson and Hastings streets – are 140 wellpreserved buildings that stand tall beside Manhattan and Miami Beach as the best commercial Art Deco precincts in the world.
A tribute to another era at the Art Deco Festival, Napier. Art Deco Trust Napier, New Zealand
The Civic Theatre, Auckland. The Civic Theatre
Wellington Railway Sation. Alex Efimoff, KiwiRail
Wellington's MLC building, top, and an interior detail of Wellington Railway Station, above. Danny Sutcliffe
Oriental Bay Band Rotunda, Wellington. Tony McCombs
While Napier is the Art Deco capital of New Zealand (and some say the world), there are countless other Art Deco buildings tucked down lanes and peacocking on street corners, old buildings given new purposes in many of New Zealand’s cities and towns. I pack my waistcoat and striped blazer back into my suitcase because the Napier festival only whets my appetite. I embark on an exploration of all things Art Deco. My next stop? Auckland. The Civic Theatre is elaborate and lavish. It hosts musicals, concerts, comedy, theatre and films most weeks of the year. It was purpose-built for the newfangled ‘talkies’ that had just appeared in New Zealand. I arrive early for my show to absorb the Indian templeinspired foyer, statues and jazzy motifs. I sit spellbound in the Arabian Nights-themed main theatre, its domed ceiling decorated with needlesharp stars representing the New Zealand night sky in April. My next stop sees me swept along by the lunchtime crowd after setting out from the curvaceous Oriental Bay Band Rotunda in Wellington. Wellington’s compact CBD is ideal for walking tours and I follow the Art Deco Heritage trail that takes me past the faded opulence of the old James Smiths and Free Ambulance (now St Johns) buildings to the City Art Gallery (originally the Wellington City Library). Back on Lambton Quay, I’m the only one in the crowd looking up at the streamlined, V-shaped facade of the MLC building which has had numerous incarnations including a Presbyterian church and a hotel. I walk with a destination in mind — the city’s best known Art Deco landmark: the Railway Station. About forty thousand travellers and commuters hurry through the station’s grand entrance and between the eight Doric columns every day.
New Regent Street. Paul Rush The last stop on my tour bears similarities to my first. Just as Napier was reborn following the earthquake in 1931, Christchurch on the South Island is now experiencing its own rebirth following earthquakes between 2010 and 2011. Many heritage buildings were damaged. Some are being saved, others demolished to make way for new, modern architecture. It is New Regent Street that draws me. Dissected by a tramline and lined with pastel-hued shops, the pedestrian street was built in the Art Deco Spanish Mission style. The street and shops were closed for over two years after the earthquakes, but have since been repaired, strengthened, reopened and reborn. MORE ART DECO I enjoy a coffee alfresco on New Regent Street and I think South Island about this living history. These buildings were built during Ranfurly moved from sheep to a time when people were worn down from hard times chic when the town pushed for but still dancing the Charleston. Eighty years later, New refurbishment of 40 of their Art Regent Street was restored to its 30s glory, propelled on by Deco gems in 1999. A highlight Cantabrians who were earthquake weary but who refused is the Centennial Milk Bar to walk away. Recognising this past and present connection which was once earmarked for makes my coffee taste all the better. demolition but now houses an Art Deco museum. Ranfurly is Centennial Tearooms, Ranfurly. Westport Buller County a beacon of rural reincarnation Chambers. Geof Wilson Central Otago Tourism in the heartland’s tussock landscape.
The West Coast town of Westport seems an unlikely spot to find building styles born in Europe and America, but the Buller County Chambers has a classic Art Deco facade that was featured on a postage stamp in 1999. Dunedin shows less evidence of Art Deco design as the city’s significant buildings date from the 1860’s gold boom. But the Toitu-Otago Settlers Museum, once the old Bus Services Depot, betrays its Art Deco roots with quaint exterior designs and horizontal embossed lines.
Toitu-Otago Settlers Museum’s NZR foyer. Graham Warman
Art Deco Napier. Richard Brimer
North Island The Hawke’s Bay region is known for its wine and is home to the twin cities of Napier and Hastings – Art Deco hotspots. Hastings’ Spanish Mission style buildings have the distinctive look of Mexican haciendas, though there are no deserts or cacti in sight.
HISTORY OF ART DECO IN NEW ZEALAND New Zealand is a young country with a range of architectural styles. It followed European trends and got caught up with the early 20th century fascination with power, speed and technology. The new Ford Model T automobiles were driven by dapper gentlemen and comely flappers over mud-caked gravel roads at an eye-watering 72kph. The new motor cars boasted 20 horsepower.
WHERE TO STAY YHA NAPIER ◆ +64 6 835 7039 ◆ napier@yha.co.nz ◆ yha.co.nz
YHA AUCKLAND INTERNATIONAL ◆ +64 9 302 8200 ◆ auckland@yha.co.nz ◆ yha.co.nz
YHA AUCKLAND CITY ◆ +64 9 309 2802 ◆ aucklandcity@yha.co.nz ◆ yha.co.nz
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Building concepts had to be simple and inexpensive during the the Great Depression, so designers thought up zany motifs to brighten plain concrete facades. The arrival of Art Deco in New Zealand heralded a massive change from the ornate Gothic, Victorian and Edwardian styles. It was pure coincidence that the Napier earthquake and a fire in Ranfurly that razed public buildings occurred when the new decorative style was in vogue. As a result travellers are able to trip down memory lane and visualise the heady days of the Charleston, jazz and jitterbug.
YHA WELLINGTON ◆ +64 4 801 7280 ◆ wellington@yha.co.nz ◆ yha.co.nz
YHA CHRISTCHURCH ROLLESTON HOUSE ◆ +64 3 366 6564 ◆ rollestonhouse@yha.co.nz ◆ yha.co.nz
The Free Ambulance building in Wellington, top, and the foyer floor inside Wellington Railway Station. Positively Welington Tourism, Danny Sutcliffe
FEATURE / BUDGET AIRLINES
Flyin�
O R P E U E ◆
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HOPPING AROUND EUROPE ON BUDGET AIRLINES IS EASY IF YOU KNOW HOW, WRITES MARC LLEWELLYN.
Setting off on adventure: high hopes and low cost flights. Shutterstock
GETTING AROUND
Europe on discount airlines like Ryanair and easyJet can be a real option for backpackers on a frugal budget, especially if you live by two simple rules – book early and travel light. For the last few years I have been heading across the world to enjoy a slice of the European summer in various places, and I’ve learnt that booking flights way in advance and only travelling with a carry-on bag can really pay dividends. As a rule, flights generally get more expensive the closer it gets to take off time, so that’s why I book six months or sometimes even 10 months before I travel. I can only do this when Ryanair and easyJet release details of the coming season’s flights, which they announce with a huge sale. I could keep checking their websites day after day to find out exactly when this happens, but that would be tedious. So, instead, I’ve signed up to Ryanair Sale Alerts and easyJet’s AirMail. Don’t worry too much if you’ve missed out on a sale though, you can still pick up bargains, especially if you are prepared to fly midweek, and outside peak holiday periods. Of course, budget airlines don’t just rely on their ticket price to make money, they like you to add on some extras, like Speedy Boarding or a pre-booked seat. A big money-spinner comes in the form of luggage that gets put in the hold. If you travel with more than hand luggage you could easily find that a backpack stowed below could end up tripling the cost of your ticket so read on for ways to avoid being stung.
CREATING THE ITINERARY I usually find that that five or six discount flights in one trip is enough. Anything over that and I’m starting to get really fed up with airports, queues and all the rest of the faffing around. Planning the itinerary can take some time, but half the fun is typing a start off point into the airline’s website and then choosing where to go to next. It’s a bit like turning up at a railway station in Europe and choosing the next place to travel to from the exotic names on the departure board. My last trip started off in far west Wales where I based myself in a couple of YHAs close to Norman castles, the dramatic Pembrokeshire Coast Path, and the gorgeous walled town of Tenby, with its beautiful beaches and mackerel fishing charters. One of the nearest airport’s serving easyJet was Bristol, so we flew from here to Paris. From there it was on to Catania on Sicily for some ancient ruins, followed by a quick ferry trip for some volcanoclimbing on the incredible Aeolian Islands. A Ryanair flight was next, flying from Palermo to Madrid. After a couple of days of tapas tasting and I was away again, this time on easyJet to Basel-Mulhouse on the Swiss/German Border. After a week or so in Heidelberg and other medieval towns along the Neckar River, I was off on easyJet again. This time it was to see the canals of Amsterdam. I finally ended my wandering by flying to London Stansted, once more on easyJet. The total cost of those six flights, booked in advance and with just carry on luggage? Just over $400.
The picturesque village of Tenby. Shutterstock
Travelling on a budget? Then travel light.
5 TOP MONEY-SAVING TIPS
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1
Time your trip Mid week, early or late flights are often cheapest. Be flexible and save.
2
On Board Buy nothing on the plane itself where you pay top dollar.
3
BYO Bring your own food from your last hostel or buy before travelling to the airport.
HOW TO PAY MORE ON YOUR BUDGET In the last tax year, Ryanair made a profit of 522.8 million Euros, or about $760 million. Just under a quarter of this came from what they call ‘ancillary revenues’. This means the extra money it makes from things like people paying to reserve a seat, or putting luggage in the hold. This part of Ryanair’s overall profit increased by 17 percent over the previous year. If you try to book a ticket on the Ryanair website, or easyJet’s for that matter, you’ll be steered towards plenty of ways to increase the eventual cost of your flight. Let’s negotiate the Ryanair website. Imagine you are flying from London Stanstead to Dortmund in Germany. You’ve found a midweek, peak-season flight costing a penny under £18, or about $33. Wow, a bargain. You already have travel insurance so you don’t need to buy something from Ryanair that covers just the flight, phew. What about baggage? Both easyJet and Ryanair have strict luggage requirements and really do enforce them! EasyJet allows you to take on one small bag or suitcase of any weight onboard, while Ryanair now allows a small bag weighing less than 10kg, plus something really small, like a woman’s handbag. For luggage going in the hold, there’s a charge of between £15 and £35 for a bag weighing 15kg or less, depending on the season and flight. If the bag weighs between 15kg and 20kg it’s between £25 and £45. If you decide to check in a bag at the desk you will be charged up to double the website price. Turn up at the airport and your backpack is heavier than 20kg - oops, that’s an extra £10 per kilogram. Now you have to decide whether to reserve a seat. Earlier this year Ryanair followed easyJet’s lead and everyone gets an allocated seat,
4
Transfers Some can be cheaper pre-booked – do your research.
5
Car Hire If you are looking for this, check the airline’s website as they can have good deals with brand name rental companies.
so thankfully the days of the scrum to board and secure a place have ended. However, what if you want to sit next to someone special, or be certain of sitting next to a window? That will cost you £5 for a regular seat, or £10 for a ‘premium seat’, which means one nearer the front of the plane or with extra legroom. Oh, and want to get on before the crowd? That’s another £2 for Speedy Boarding. A text to your phone confirming your reservation number and flight details will come in handy. That costs £2.48. Thankfully, the huge fee that used to apply for turning up at the check in desk without a boarding pass has gone, at least if you book online. You probably don’t want ‘low cost parking’ at the airport from £17.99 a day and you won’t need to buy an airport transfer if you’re going to Dortmund (returning back to London Stanstead you can perorder a trip to London Victoria station through the Ryanair website for £9.99). Presumably you don’t have some extra sports equipment (£50), or a musical instrument (£50), or a baby seat (£10) that you need to transport. So you end up with your ticket, a bag checked in that weighs just under 20kg, a reserved standard seat (with no onboard food, drink or entertainment – that costs extra too), and an SMS showing your reservation details. Total price, including credit card fees, £61.69 for a one-way trip. So the flight that once cost $33 now comes in at around $113. Still relatively cheap, but not the bargain basement price you once thought.
WHERE TO STAY
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There are thousands of HI hostels throughout Europe, including many in these smaller, more unusual destinations. Combine researching on hihostels.com for accommodation with your flight research.
Back to basics: On board a Ryanair flight. Shutterstock
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IT’S ALL IN THE NAME
If you’ve never heard of Skelleftea, Aarhus, Ostrava and Pula then you’re probably not alone. To enlighten you, Skelleftea is the southern outpost of Swedish Lapland. Aarhus is the second largest city in Denmark. Ostrava is in the Czech Republic, and Pula is a town in Croatia. And you can fly to all of them with Ryanair. Want some more unusual Ryanair destinations? How about Billund (Denmark), Växjö (Sweden), Bydgoszcz (Poland), Rodez and Dole (both in France), Comiso (Sicily), Podgorica (Montenegro) and Plovdiv (Bulgaria). EasyJet offers a few places off the beaten flight path too. Among them are Dalaman and Bodram (both in Turkey), Hurghada (Egypt), and Olbia (on Sardinia). You might not know what to expect of these unusual destinations, but a little research and you’ll get a good idea. It’s worth noting though that when it comes to the world of the European budget airlines, sometimes you don’t get what you expected. A prime example is Paris Vatry airport, used by Ryanair. While you might have thought it was close to Paris, the reality is very different. This former Cold War airforce base is around
Pula Olbia 147km from the Eiffel Tower. This is fine if you are heading into the Champagne region of France, but a real pain if you hoped to arrive in Paris. Then there’s Munich’s Memmingen airport, which is 112km from central Munich; Oslo Torp, which is 110km south of central Oslo; and Frankfurt Hahn, which is 120km west of Frankfurt. Oh, and the delightfully named Dusseldorf-Weeze, which is, in fact, 83km from downtown Dusseldorf. There are many more examples. All this use of smoke and mirrors is because discount airlines like to use secondary airports rather than the more expensive ones that are nearer the destination you probably want to get to. They do fly to main airports too, but do your research before you buy a ticket.
Podgorica
Aarhus
Hurghada
FEATURE / BEACH OR BUSH
BEACH BUSH Coffs Coast Tourism, Elinor Sheargold
or
MID-YEAR BREAKS CAN RECHARGE AND REINVIGORATE. DEBORAH DICKSON-SMITH LOOKS AT TWO OF THE BEST IN NEW SOUTH WALES.
THE
Blue Mountains and Coffs Harbour are both great destinations to explore during the winter months. The air is crisp and clear and generally you are sharing the beautiful surrounding landscape with far fewer people.
There’s nothing like a day of brisk outdoors activity followed by a hot chocolate at a cosy café. And there are plenty of both to be found in the bush or by the sea.
The Scenic Railway transports you to and from the lush surrounds of the Jamison Valley Scenic World, Shutterstock
Blue Mountains YHA
THE BLUE MOUNTAINS
Most outdoors activities on offer in the Blue Mountains are available year-round. The best way to start is with one of the shorter, more accessible walking trails and work your way up from there to longer hikes and more extreme activities like rock climbing and abseiling. There’s a great walking loop that will take you across the top and bottom of the Jamison Valley canyon without too much effort, starting from Scenic World. From Scenic World, grab yourself a day pass and take the Skyway across to the cliff track on the opposite side of the valley, taking in views of Katoomba Falls on the way. From here, walk around the cliff top to Echo Point and the Three Sisters. The Giant Staircase then takes you down into Jamison Valley, where you take a right turn and wind your way around Federal Pass track through lush temperate rainforest back to Scenic World, where you can catch either the Scenic Railway or Cable Car back up the cliff.
For something a little more adventurous, check in with High ‘n Wild Mountain Adventures, who have an office in the lobby of the Blue Mountains YHA. They run abseiling, canyoning, rock climbing and mountain biking tours in the surrounding bushland and canyons. It’s a great way to get an introduction to these types of extreme activities in a safe, controlled environment, with qualified instructors. On a full day’s trip with High ‘n Wild, you get the chance to try both abseiling and canyoning. First, you’re shown the basics and taken through a safety briefing before launching yourself over the cliff abseiling 50 metres to the valley below. Then it’s time to get wet. The mountain water doesn’t change in temperature much throughout the year – it’s cold year-round – so you are supplied with appropriately chunky wetsuits and it’s recommended you wear a beanie underneath your hood.
Abseiling and canyoning
High n Wild
High ‘n Wild , YHA
Explore the Jenolan Caves on a series of walkways, or sueeze your way, through The Plughole. Jenolan Caves
Further down the road you can go deeper underground at Jenolan Caves with an introductory caving adventure called the Plughole. This tour takes you on a series of climbs, crawls and squeezes through the Elder Cave and the only escape at the end is through the “S Bend”. The so-called S Bend is a very narrow gap between cave walls that you need to shimmy through on your side at first on your left, and halfway through you then have to flip yourself over to shimmy the other way. There are also two longer adventure cave activities; the Aladdin, which takes half a day to complete and the Mammoth which takes a full day. If you’d rather explore the Blue Mountains on horse back, head for Megalong Valley and Centennial Glen Stables. A guided trail ride will take you through some very pretty trails, with landscape that changes every few hundred metres, from open paddocks, to little goat paths that wind through tall trees.
TOP 3 COZY BLUE MOUNTAINS CAFES
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Yellow Deli on Katoomba St looks like it’s been built with driftwood. It’s a labyrinth of little dining booths made from twisted branches and vines, with stained glass windows and whole meal waiters. The cheese melts and the chocolate brownies are recommended.
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The Gingerbread House is a repurposed and renovated old church, now a café and sweet shop serving up classics like gingerbeer floats, creaming soda spiders and malted milkshakes. The brownies here are pretty good too.
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Josophan’s Fine Chocolates on the Mall in Leura is a rather like chocolate heaven, with a wide range of home made chocolates. Make sure you try the choc-mint and pick up their hot chocolate mix.
Deborah Dickson-Smith
COFFS SOLITARY COAST
A Kangaroo on Look At Me Now Headland
Coffs Coast is a bit of a hidden gem. Yes, we’ve all heard of Coffs Coffs Coast Tourism Harbour and the big yellow fruit that still sits next to the highway perched on a grassy knoll. But you probably didn’t know about the Solitary Islands Coastal Walk, a walking route that winds 60km along beautiful beaches and windswept headlands. TOP 5 COFFS SHORT WALKS This coastline really is beautiful – I’d go as far as pristine. Mutton Bird Island Walk. A There’s abundant wildlife, lush green hinterland, unspoiled 2km return trip starting from beaches and a thriving foodie culture. the harbour, with views back If you’re not up for walking 60km, the coastal walk is easily across the harbour and up and broken up into bite-size chunks. It’s not exactly serious down the coast. Great spot for hiking, mostly along beaches, boardwalks and gentle uphill whale-watching. and downhill slopes as you round each headland. A good place to start is at the north end of Park Beach, Diggers Beach to winding around Macauleys Headland, along Diggers Beach Charlesworth Bay is a 4.5km and Diggers Headland, finishing up at Charlesworth Beach. return trip along pristine It’s a leisurely 2-hour stroll along practically untouched beaches, and through literal beaches and leafy rainforest with eagles hovering above rainforest, with great views of and most likely whales and dolphins frolicking about in the the Solitary Islands. distance out to sea. The Sawtell Headland walk Coffs Coast has the longest whale-watching season on the is a 6km loop from Boronia Eastern Seaboard. By the time the last stragglers swing by Park to Boambee Bay reserve on their way to Hervey Bay, the early starters are starting to past Boambee Creek, with head south. great views from Sawtell lookout and Bonville Headland.
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The Beach to Lake walk starts north of Coffs Harbour at Woolgoolga Town Beach. It’s a 3km loop from there to Woolgoolga Lake, past the site of the “Buster” ship wreck, a steamer that ran ashore in 1893.
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The Korora South Walk is 3.5km return, starting at Opal Cove or Hills Beach along empty beaches and across headlands to Charlesworth Bay.
If you’re travelling on the weekend or during school holidays, it’s worthwhile stopping at Charlesworth Bay for a visit to the Solitary Islands Aquarium where you can learn a bit about the unique mix of marine life here. Or better still, take a trip out the South Solitary Islands and go for a snorkel or a dive. Warmer waters brought this far south on the Eastern Australian Current (EAC) make for perfect sub-tropical snorkeling and diving conditions. The water is clearer in winter so it's possibly the best time to seek out the resident populations of colourful sub-tropical fish and sleepy grey nurse sharks. You’re also likely to see manta rays, turtles and big schools of trevally, goatfish and snapper. Jetty Dive run both diving and whale-watching trips in a very cool little purple Zodiac, which gets you out to sea so quickly there’s no time to get seasick.
WHERE TO STAY
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BLUE MOUNTAINS YHA ◆ +61 2 4782 1416 ◆ bluemountains@yha.com.au ◆ yha.com.au
The Blue Mountains YHA is located on the main street of town, within easy reach of cafes, shops and Echo Point. Save with 3 special deals now at this hostel – one including Scenic World Passes, one including a day trip to Jenolan Caves and one with a full day Abseiling Adventure. Clockwise from top: Nemo found in the waters off Solitary Island, Charlesworth Beach, Jetty Beach, dolphin show, whale watching. Coffs Coast Tourism diveplanit.com
COFFS HARBOUR YHA ◆ +61 2 6652 6462 ◆ coffsharbour@yha.com.au ◆ yha.com.au
The Coffs Harbour YHA is only a short walk to the beach, Muttonbird Island and local cafes and shops. Enjoy a great Whales & Dolphins Special now – 3 nights accommodation and whale watching cruise and entry to Dolphin Marine Magic.
Wellington on a Plate
WHAT'S ON HERE’S OUR PICK OF EVENTS COMING UP IN YOUR REGION
WELLINGTON ON A PLATE 15 -31 August 2014
NZ
Polish your knives and forks for New Zealand’s tastiest culinary festival. Every August foodies flock to the ‘coolest little capital in the world’ for 17 days of indulgent and mouth-watering events from pretzel-making, artisan baking, banquets and blind dining, to symphonic feasts, hands-on cooking, days trips and a pig on a spit. DINE Wellington is the festival centrepiece, a fortnight where the region’s finest 98 eateries offer lunchtime set menus and dinner deals. Bon appetit! wellingtononaplate.com
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GOOD FOOD MONTH October (Sydney & Canberra) November (Melbourne)
OZ
The month-long Good Food Month menu is crammed with signature events inviting you to taste, talk, drink and dine your way around town. There’s lip-smacking fine-dining and free outdoor fiestas, chef showcases from the kitchen’s big name stars and hands-on cooking classes so you can do it yourself, bar hops and impromptu restaurant pop-ups, Barbecue Madness and The Ultimate High Tea. Of course, it wouldn’t be springtime in Sydney without Hyde Park’s Night Noodle Markets. Special guest in 2014 is chef, author, restaurateur and TV star Yotam Ottolenghi, who is sure to inspire you with his mouthwatering Mediterranean marvels. goodfoodmonth.com
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ADELAIDE WINTER FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL 24 August 2014
SA
Celebrate South Australia’s stunning wines, ciders, beers and sumptuous seasonal treats at the very first Adelaide Winter Food and Wine Festival. McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Adelaide Hills and Barossa are amongst the delicious regions flaunting their worldclass wines and premium produce under the roof of the ultimate cellar door Australia’s largest tasting room experience. wineaustralia.com.au
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CELEBRATE THE SEA: KAIKOURA SEAFEST 3-4 October 2014
NZ
The ocean around coastal Kaikoura heaves with delicacies from the deep and the annual Kaikoura Seafest cooks it all up for a scrumptious celebration. Tuck in to baby octopus, paua (abalone), whitebait, crayfish (lobster) and a range of fish and wash it down with regional wine and quality beer. Seafest kicks off Friday night with a Big Top bash and gets into full swing on Saturday. Frock up for the best dressed competition and celebrate 20 years of Seafest. seafest.co.nz
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SMOOTH FESTIVAL OF CHOCOLATE 4-5 October 2014
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N SW
Got a sweet tooth? As part of Good Food Month in Sydney, smoothfm are launching the very first smooth Festival of Chocolate. The city’s historic Rocks district will be transformed into a chocolate and dessert wonderland, giving connoisseurs and chocoholics a chance to taste, buy and share in the many unique and emerging chocolate offerings in Australia from boutique and big brand chocolatiers, baristas, BOOK bakers and artisans. smoothfm.com.au NOW u u u
Stay at Sydney Harbour YHA +61 2 8272 0900 sydneyharbour@yha.com.au
Clockwise from left: Brisbane Airport Light garden; I Want To know What Love Is; SOAP. Brisbane Festival
BRISBANE FESTIVAL 6-27 September 2014
QLD
It’s edgy. It’s entertaining. It’s electrifying! The Queensland capital’s world-class arts festival fires up September with a sensational program of live music, theatre, dance, comedy, circus and more. Snap up tickets to the Spiegeltent’s roof-raising shows including The Midnight Juggernauts 10th Anniversary Tour, Grinspoon front man Phil Jamieson, and funnymen Matt Okine and Ronny Cheng. From the aerial acrobatics of Limbo or Circus Oz, and splashy whacky fun of Soap, to pop, punk, psychedelic dance, and piano virtuosos, Brisbane is THE place to be in September. It’s also one of only three cities in the world to host The Perfect American, the spellbinding new opera from iconic composer Phillip Glass (Koyaanisqatsi) with imaginings of Walt Disney, Abraham Lincoln and Andy Warhol. Catch a free riverside gig as part of the Twilight Music Series, step inside the monumental maze of Exxopolis’ walk-through sculpture, and stake out your spot for the explosive fireworks finale of Riverfire on 27 September. brisbanefestival.com.au
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VI C
OZASIA FESTIVAL 3-20 September 2014
Get set for 17-day of the finest national and international names in dance, theatre, music, visual arts and outdoor events to town. The packed program includes the unique voices of Gurrumul and Sarah Blasko, the sonic nirvana of DJ Dexter, a tribute to iconic director John Landis (The Blues Brothers, Michael Jackson’s Thriller Video) and the ever extraordinary sensory experience of Grammy award-winning African musical duo Amadou and Miriam’s concert Eclipse, performed in total darkness. melbournefestival.com.au u
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Branco Gaica
Melbourne Central YHA
SA
This multicultural mix of Australia and Asia brings together thrilling music (headlining this year is Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon composer Tan Dun), workshops, visual arts, film, talks, cuisine and much more. The highlight is the annual Moon Lantern Festival on 8 September, which lights up Adelaide’s Elder Park and River Torrens for a stunning lantern parade and fireworks spectacular. ozasiafestival.com.au
ACT
CANBERRA FLORIADE 13 September - 12 October 2014 Ring in spring at the largest flower festival in the Southern Hemisphere. Canberra’s perennially popular Floriade offers a smorgasbord of attractions including favourites the gourmet garden, Inspiration Hub, demos and displays that fuse fashion, food and flowers. Get a bird’s-eye view of the colour cornucopia from the 35 metre ferris wheel. Petalheads can follow the flower trail taking in Canberra’s main sights. Don’t miss the ticketed twilight event NightFest from 24-28 September, with stellar light shows, markets and music under the moonlight, comedy and DJs. floriadeaustralia.com
Take advantage of Canberra City YHA's Spring Fling deal
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Moon Lantern Festival 2012
MELBOURNE FESTIVAL 10-26 October 2014
It’s bold, it’s cold, it’s two years old! NZ IceFest transforms a slice of Christchurch into a piece of Antarctica while celebrating the importance of Antarctica to the world. Hear of the first unsupplied, unsupported NZ expedition to the South Pole by rapscallion adventurers Kevin Biggar and Jamie Fitzgerald. Chat via video conference with Antarcticans currently living at Scott Base. Hear experts from science, policy and industry tackle big, controversial, critical issues facing Antarctica including Climate Change. Travel back in geological time to Antarctica’s surprisingly leafy past at Antarctic Time Travel. Also join United States Air Force and the Royal New Zealand Air Force crews as they take you inside some of the world’s largest aircraft before they jet off to Antarctica. All that and more! nzicefest.co.nz
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NZ
Anthony Powell
THE ICEFEST COMETH! CHRISTCHURCH ANTARCTIC FESTIVAL 26 September - 12 October 2014
Get ready to laugh, cry, cover your eyes and cheer at the annual New Zealand International Film Festival. NZIFF screens films from around the world while simultaneously launching some of New Zealand’s home grown film makers. The festival includes 20 films direct from Cannes including the Grand Prix winner, The Wonders; a curated collection of Maori Pasifika short films; hypnotic and hilarious animated pop and anime; Arthouse, psychological drama and more. Follow the festival as it hits the road, touring New Zealand for three months. nziff.co.nz
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New Zealand Film Festival
NEW ZEALAND INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL June - July 2014
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PHILLIP ISLAND MOTO GRAND PRIX 17-19 October 2014
Experience the excitement as the world’s best riders battle it out on the picturesque Phillip Island Circuit at the 2014 Australian Grand Prix. With riders reaching top speeds of 344 kph, cornering at 64 degree angles and overtaking each other with just millimetres to spare you’re guaranteed to get caught up in the thrill of some of the most spectacular racing in the MotoGP season. If you can take your eyes off the track, the home of Australian motorcycle racing is also lucky enough to be blessed with some of the most beautiful panoramic ocean views and rugged scenery on the international circuit. motogp.com.au
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AND ALSO... new zealand fashion week 29-31 August 2014 Stay YHA Auckland City or YHA Auckland International
perth kings park Festival 1-30 September 2014 Stay Perth City YHA
SHINJU MATSURI FESTIVAL 5-14 September 2014
WA
Shinju Matsuri celebrates Broome’s pearling history and its status as a cultural melting pot. Ten days of events kick off with the traditional parade (a festival highlight), there’s also a pearl meat cook-off, sculptures on Cable Beach, the delicious Taste of Broome and more. Take the time to visit WA’s wildflower displays while you’re here or time your visit to catch the Staircase to the Moon phenomena 9-11 September. shinjumatsuri.com.au
visitbroome.com.au
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Thredbo 2014 ski season until 4 October 2014 Stay Thredbo YHA
v8 supercars gold coast 24-26 October 2014 Stay Surfers Paradise YHA
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YHA.COM.AU YHA.CO.NZ NEXT ISSUE AVAILABLE 8 OCTOBER 2014