SPECIAL EDITION
CONTENTS
VOL 2 _ 2023/2024
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THE HIT LIST: From jewels and dials to fragrances and bags, this is the ultimate festive season shopping guide
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TICK-TOCK RENAISSANCE: Luxury watch brands pushing the boundaries of tradition
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A NEW CHAPTER: Cartier’s high jewellery collection showcases the brand’s quest for modernity
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MIKI ELETA – THE PICASSO OF CLOCKMAKING: Collectors around the world lust after the self-taught watchmaker’s intricate clocks
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TIMELESS CHARM: Africa’s most historic hotels are given a dose of luxury and innovation
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OUR COVERS
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Our annual celebration of watches, jewels, fragrances & experiences
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SPECIAL EDITION 2023/2024
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TREASURE TROVE Our annual celebration of watches, jewels, fragrances & experiences
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9 773005 393002 R89.90 (Incl. VAT) Other Countries R78.17
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Thank you for joining us on this journey.
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AFRICA SPECIAL EDITION
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We all know that luxury gifting is not always about buying the most expensive item, but rather about selecting a gift that will be cherished for life. Whether that gift is a ring to cement a bond, a timepiece that can be passed down from one generation to the next, a leatherbound journal to document special moments, or an escape for two, luxury is ultimately a state of mind.
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This led to a glamorous threeday shoot with a talented team of stylists, photographers and local designers whose haute couture complemented the glittering jewels. Creative studio Bronze Age also produced magnificent backdrops for the timepieces.
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some special guests to share their top timepieces and most striking jewels with us.
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So, in addition to a host of must-haves and lust-haves on our upfront pages, we invited
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Coupled with our first anniversary and the fact that we are heading towards the festive season – a time of giving and indulgence – it made sense to give you a Special Edition with a little more sparkle and shine.
Our annual celebration of watches, jewels, fragrances & experiences
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year has passed since we introduced you to YourLuxury Africa, a brand that celebrates the luxe life through various platforms, including our annual Special Edition with its focus on watches and jewels.
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L U X U RY
2023/2024
UNWRAP A WO R L D O F
SPECIAL EDITION 2023/2024
LETTER
ED’S
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JOIN US ONLINE
TREASURE TROVE
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SPECIAL EDITION
SPECIAL EDITION 2023/2024
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Our annual celebration of watches, jewels, fragrances & experiences
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If you’ve enjoyed this Special Edition of YourLuxury Africa, visit our website at yourluxury.africa where we share carefully curated luxury content from all over Africa, and beyond. From food to fashion, wine to watches, wheels to wings and fragrance to fine art – you’ll find it all there in one exquisite online space. Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and Facebook too.
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CAPE TOWN
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SPECIAL EDITION
SPECIAL EDITION 2023/2024
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Our annual celebration of watches, jewels, fragrances & experiences
EDITOR’S PHOTOGRAPH GRAEME WYLLIE
All rights reserved. Whereas precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of information, neither the editor nor YourLuxury Africa can be held liable for any inaccuracies, injury or damages that may arise. The opinions expressed in the articles may not reflect those of the publisher.
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EDITORIAL: EDITOR Ingrid Wood ingrid@yourluxury.africa EDITOR IN CHIEF Ntokozo Maseko Ntokozo@yourluxury.africa CREATIVE DIRECTOR Kate Walters PROJECT MANAGER Matthew McClure COPY EDITOR Tamlyn Cumings PROOFREADER/CONTRIBUTOR Leigh Herringer IMAGE EDITOR Coralie Elske CONTRIBUTOR Debbie Hathway ADVERTISING & MARKETING: MD Yvonne Shaff +27 (82) 903 5641 I yvonne@yourluxury.africa ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Yvette Mehl + 27 (21) 439 4907 I yvette@yourluxury.africa ACCOUNT MANAGER: NATIONAL Gina van de Wall gina@yourluxury.africa MANAGEMENT: MANAGING DIRECTOR & PUBLISHER Yvonne Shaff EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Jacquie Myburgh Chemaly jacquie@yourluxury.africa DISTRIBUTION & PRINT: DISTRIBUTION On the Dot, Media Support PRINTED BY CTP Printers, Cape Town for YourLuxury: PO Box 1053, Sea Point 8060, Cape Town.
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ALL IMAGES SUPPLIED: 1. Tudor Prince Chronograph One. 2. BMW X5. 3. Cartier Golshifteh Farahani wears Girih necklace in platinum with emeralds, turquoise and diamonds | Le Voyage Recommencé, Cartier High Jewelry. 4. Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 with military leather strap. 5. Graff I Wish: Model: Rianne Van Rompaey, Photographer: Mikael Jansson.
DRMEEAM EE D FA TOSB ST DRIVE R . “ O N C E I D R E A M E D“ ONCE TO B EICO TH TECOM E S T DER ITH V EERFASTE . TODAY, I AM A DRIVE R OF CHANG E .” TO DAY, I A M A D R I V E R O F C H A N G E .” LEEWI S RHMAUMLI A LTO , 7 TI MD EC FO RM AN1 T M WO R LD CH A M P I O N L E W I S H A M I LT O N , 7 T I M FO 1 T MNWO RL HA MU P ILO
IW3894 THE REFERENCE. PILOT’ S WATCH CH RONOG R APH 41 TOP G U N Maximum performance and versatility: when it comes to chronographs, we have been setting ourselves the highest standards for more than four decades. Like with the 69000 caliber family, which we developed with an uncompromising focus on robustness and durability. Because only those who keep surpassing themselves can become the reference for others.
THE HIT LIST
GIFTS
YOUR
Graff Tribal Collection sapphire and white diamond necklace (sapphires 116.10cts, diamonds 58.46cts) set in white gold, earrings (sapphires 39.49cts, diamonds 9.94cts) set in white gold, and 20.09ct emerald-cut sapphire ring with white trilliant-cut diamond shoulders, set in platinum, all POA, graff.com
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FROM SHIMMERING STONES TO DECADENT DIALS AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN, YOUR HOLIDAY SHOPPING GUIDE STARTS HERE…
BIG BANG UNICO Titanium and blue ceramic case. In-house UNICO chronograph movement.
GIFTS
YOUR
MARINE PARADE
A DEEP DIVE INTO THE BEAUTY OF THE OCEAN’S HUES
Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski 40mm in blue ceramic, R305 100, Murdocks
Ex Nihilo Blue Talisman 50ml EDP, R4 710, skins.co.za
Giorgio Armani Ocean di Gioia 100ml EDP, R2 400, select beauty retailers
Dolce&Gabbana Solar Glow Universal Blurring Powder, R1 110, woolworths.co.za
Montblanc Muses Maria Callas special edition fountain pen, R22 500, montblanc.com
Louis Vuitton Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme Fall Collection
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IMAGES SUPPLIED
Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Azure, R575 000, bhhboutique.co.za
extend your international limited warranty for up to 8 years on panerai.com Johannesburg: Sandton City - Panerai Boutique. Melrose Arch - Elegance Jewellers Pretoria: Menlyn Park Shopping Centre - The Vault Cape Town: V & A Waterfront - Charles Greig Jewellers Mauritius: Floreal - Adamas
GIFTS
YOUR
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe automatic men’s ceramic watch, green chronograph on Nato strap, R347 600, tanur.co.za
Raymond Weil freelancer 2790 mechanical selfwinding movement, 40mm stainless steel case and bracelet, 100m water resistant, POA, bhhboutique.co.za
GOING GREEN
UNIQUE AND VERSATILE, GREEN DIALS ARE BOTH CLASSIC AND TIMELESS
Baume & Mercier Riviera 10618, 42mm automatic men’s watch in stainless steel, with green dial on green rubber strap, R49 500, baume-et-mercier.com
Longines Mini DolceVita in mint green, 21.50mm x 29.00mm stainless-steel case framed by 38 IF-VVS Top Wesselton diamonds, alligator strap, powered by L178 quartz movement, R86 500, longines.com
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Breitling Super Chronomat Automatic 38 stainless steel and 18kt red gold, mint green dial, R279 800, breitling.com
T H E F U T U R E O F S W I S S WATC H M A K I N G S I N C E 18 6 5
T I M E TO R E AC H YO U R S TA R
DEFY SK YLINE SKELE TON
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A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE FELINES, SERPENTS, LADYBUGS AND MORE – LUXURY BRANDS CONTINUE TO CAPTURE THE BEAUTY OF THE ANIMAL WORLD
Dolce&Gabbana The Only One sheer lipstick, R550, and ladybug case, R330 (sold separately), woolworths.co.za
Zendaya wearing Bulgari Serpenti
Fabergé x Game of Thrones featuring Gemfields 18kt white gold diamond and ruby Dragon Skeleton ring, POA, faberge.com
Slim d’Hermès Masan Masan pocket watch, POA, bhhboutique.co.za
Patek Philippe Rare Handcraft Leopard Pocket Watch with wood marquetry, hand engraving and champlevé enamel and handcrafted stand in yellow gold, POA, patekphilippe@gmtafrica.com
Panthère De Cartier 38.2mm quartz movement in yellow gold, and Panthère De Cartier 38.2mm quartz movement, rhodium finish, 18kt white gold, both POA, Cartier Boutique Sandton City
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IMAGES SUPPLIED. HERMÈS: ©ANITA SCHLAEFLI
Bulgari Serpenti 18kt rose gold ring set with pavé diamonds and black onyx eyes, R382 200, bhhboutique.co.za
GIFTS
YOUR
FOLLOW THE SUN EYE-CATCHING SUNSHINE SHADES ARE THE HAPPIEST HUE THIS SEASON
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date, 36mm, yellow gold and diamonds, POA, rolex.com
Europa Art floral blossom strap sandals, R4 690, europaart.co.za
Abercrombie & Fitch Authentic Self Woman 100ml EDP, R1 299, dischem.co.za
Hermès 41mm H08 Monopusher Chronograph with carbon fibre case and rubber strap, R155 000, hermes.com
Dolce&Gabbana Devotion illuminating oil-infused face powder, R1 295, select Woolworths stores and woolworths.co.za
Diego dalla Palma Nutri Mask, R695, orleanscosmetics.co.za
Patek Philippe 6007G_001 Calatrava self-winding calibre, white gold case with embossed “carbon” motif leather strap, POR, patekphilippe@gmtafrica.com
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Montblanc lined notebook in yellow, R1 415, montblanc.com
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Graff Tribal Collection diamond earrings set in yellow and white gold (65.81cts), POA, graff.com
CHARLIZE THERON NAVITIMER FOR THE JOURNEY
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YOUR
REDLETTER DAY
Montblanc Great Characters Enzo Ferrari Special Edition Ballpoint Pen, R15 600, montblanc.com
SEXY AND ASSERTIVE – WHETHER ON YOUR WRIST OR LIPS – THE COLOUR RED IS ANYTHING BUT DEMURE
Fabergé x Gemfields Emotion Charmeuse 18kt rose gold ruby ring, POA, fabergé.com
Dolce&Gabbana Devotion liquid mousse lipstick in Devozione, R970, select Woolworths stores and woolworths.co.za N°1 De Chanel Revitalising Serum, R2 990, Chanel Fragrance and Beauty Boutiques: Sandton City, V&A Waterfront, Menlyn, Gateway
Chanel The Mirror in Incendiaire, R820, Chanel Fragrance and Beauty Boutiques: Sandton City, V&A Waterfront, Menlyn, Gateway
Jekyll and Hide Osaka crossbody bag, R2 449, jekyllandhide.co.za
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Swatch Red Juicy with black open dial, glowin-the-dark hands and metal sandblasted case, R4 240, Swatch: Sandton City, Menlyn, Canal Walk, V&A Waterfront, Gateway, swatch.com
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AS THE MEN’S DECORATIVE ACCESSORIES RENAISSANCE GAINS MOMENTUM, WE’RE ENJOYING THESE FLUID STATEMENT PIECES
FRED Force 10 white gold and blue corderie cable bracelet, R74 000, and FRED Force 10 bracelet, extra-large model, black titanium, R70 500, latelierparis.co.za
Dolce&Gabbana Fine Jewellery Easy Rainbow collection
GEMS FOR GENTS
Chopard Mille Miglia Bracelet in black rubber and silver-toned metal, R7 500, bhhboutique.co.za
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Bell & Ross Cyber Skull Bronze (limited to 500 pieces) 45mm handwound mechanical with sapphire and bronze caseback and bronze-coloured skull with black rubber strap, R240 000, Murdocks
IMAGES SUPPLIED
Chopard Ice Cube ring in ethical white gold, R73 150, bhhboutique.co.za
TAG HEUER BOUTIQUES SANDTON CITY 011 784 7422 - V&A WATERFRONT 021 421 8539 - GATEWAY 031 566 4452 WWW.PICOTANDMOSS.CO.ZA
GIFTS
YOUR
DIGIT DESIGNS
Dolce&Gabbana Easy Diamond Collection ring, POA, dolcegabbana.com
Messika Move Noa LM Pavé rose gold diamond ring, R142 000, bhhboutique.co.za
WITH RINGS ON YOUR FINGERS (AND BELLS ON YOUR TOES!), THERE WILL BE MUSIC WHEREVER YOU GO…
Fabergé x Gemfields Colours of Love platinum 25.56ct emerald ring set with diamonds, POA, fabergé.com
FRED Force 10 medium ring rose gold and diamonds, R74 000, latelierparis.co.za
Bulgari Colour Journey Collection kunzite and morganite ring, POA, bulgari.com
Louis Vuitton Blossom open ring in 18kt pink gold and six diamonds (~0.07ct), POA, louisvuitton.com
Pomellato Iconica ring in 18kt rose gold with three London Blue topazes, R71 500, bhhboutique.co.za
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FRED Force 10 large ring white gold and diamonds, R90 000, latelierparis.co.za
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IMAGES DES TAK AND JUDD VAN RENSBURG STYLIST CALLY PALMER MODEL AI-MEE AT BOSS MODELS MAKE-UP TAMARYN VAN TONDER @ LAMPOST NAILS SORBET NAILBAR
The
ART of TIME EXCLUSIVE AND ELUSIVE, THIS ROLEX TIMEPIECE IS A COLLECTOR’S DREAM
Every year, Rolex releases unique ‘off-catalogue’ watches that are limited to a handful of privileged collectors. These timepieces are extremely rare and buyers can be assured that they’re one of a few to own such impressive works of art. In 2021, one of the brand’s most exotic watches, the Rolex Day Date 36mm, was released. It comes in 18kt white gold with a diamond-set bezel, diamond-set dial, turquoise enamel Roman numerals, and a turquoise alligator leather strap. The Rolex team of expert gem setters ensured the exquisite timepiece is what collectors would expect from the distinguished luxury Swiss watchmaker. It includes 254 diamonds in the case, 52 on the bezel, 61 on the folding Crownclasp, and 450 set in the dial. Available at Shemer Jewellers: 011 622 4735/6; shemer.co.za
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IN BLOOM
GIFTS
YOUR
Louis Vuitton Deep Time Seeds necklace with yellow gold, diamonds, Mandarin spessartite garnets and rubellites, totalling 256cts, POA, louisvuitton.com
ROSY HUES AND FLORAL CUES ADD A CHARMING TOUCH FOR SUMMER
Patek Philippe self-winding Calatrava (4997) in rose gold, with diamond-set bezel and purple leather strap, POR, patekphilippe@gmtafrica.com Diptyque premium scented candle in La Forêt Rêve, R5 600, skins.co.za
Jimmy Choo Rose Passion 100ml EDP, R1 855, dischem.co.za
Louis Vuitton Blossom 18kt pink gold and diamond (~0.1ct) pendant, POA, louisviutton.com
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IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40mm with stainless-steel case and salmon-coloured dial, powered by the IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre movement with a 60-hour power reserve, R139 000, iwc.com
JENNIFER LAWRENCE
MINI
DOLCEVITA
GIFTS
YOUR
BRING ON THE BLING THE PARTY SEASON CALLS FOR GLITZ AND GLAMOUR, WHICH MEANS MAGICAL METALLICS, SEQUINS AND SPARKLES
H. Moser & Cie 40mm Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack in 18kt red gold and alligator strap, POR, Architects of Time
Louis Roederer Cristal Vintage Rosé 2014 Champagne, R12 995, reciprocal.co.za (limited stock available)
Chanel Le Vernis Longwearing Colour and Shine nail colour in Tuxedo, R690, Chanel Beauty Boutiques
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Forte Oud Yuzu 75ml EDP, R2 345, arcstore.co.za
Boucheron Pour Homme 100ml EDT, R1 599, dischem.co.za
Dolce&Gabbana Kim small Sicily handbag adorned with crystals, R58 000, dolcegabbana.com
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Dior Grand Soir 28mm quartz set with baguette-cut pink sapphires and diamonds, engraved and hand-painted mother of pearl dial, POA, Architects of Time
RADO.COM
MASTER OF MATERIALS
RADO CENTRIX
GIFTS
YOUR
Montblanc Meisterstück soft passport holder in Ottanio, R6 300, montblanc.com
WE ALL HAVE A NATURAL IMPULSE TO DISCOVER NEW PLACES AND SPACES. THE EXPLORATION BEGINS HERE…
Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 44mm with stainless steel bracelet, POA, breitling.com
Louis Vuitton Snow 2024
ADVENTURE AWAITS
Kate Spade Coastal Vacation Espadrilles, R3 990, europaart.co.za Swatch What If? Bioceramic watch in grey with integrated biosourced strap, R2 360, swatch.com
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Montblanc Explorer Platinum 100ml EDP, R1 899, select beauty retailers
F O R C E 10 C O L L E C T I O N
L’ATELIER PARIS
Oceans Mall, Umhlanga, Durban +27 (0) 31 001 7076 - contact@latelierparis.co.za www.latelierparis.co.za
TIME
YOUR
ONLY TECHNICAL SUPERLATIVES FOR
BREITLING’S NEW AVENGER
WORDS DEBBIE HATHWAY
B
reitling chief product officer Sylvain Berneron talks to me about the new Avenger updates as he surveys his desk covered in watches, which inspire the “amazing products” in the pipeline for the upcoming years. Reflecting on the journey, he says, “It’s been a blast.” “The Avenger is a historic watch for Breitling, born in the tradition of professional aviation. For this new generation, we improved the product technically because we believe the technical specifications are the core assets of the Avenger,” he says. For starters, the Breitling team incorporated the in-house manufacture
calibre B01 – one of the most robust chronograph movements in the industry – and found ways to improve the ergonomics, readability and usability of the piece. “That’s why we changed to a rectangular pusher, improving the contact surface and making it easier to use the chronograph when wearing gloves, for example,” says Sylvain. Breitling also improved the case construction by incorporating a new rotating bezel system, which is more resistant to water and sand. In-office practical tests included “playing” with the piece to see how the case behaves, ensuring it doesn’t damage a sleeve, and checking that it’s easy to operate while wearing gloves – an essential practicality for clients wearing the watch while working on aircraft carriers and oil rigs, or in heavy industry. “We introduced ceramic to the Avenger collection, which is heavily scratch resistant, allowing us to have a full-matte look for the Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 Night Mission without having to sacrifice the long-term reliability of the piece. We also created a reference to aviation using a carbon dial, which I’m happy to use because it creates a tech feel to the product,” Sylvain adds. While aircraft have aluminium and composite materials in their construction, Sylvain explains that aluminium is unsuitable for watchmaking as it transfers heat too quickly and causes the movement to suffer temperature changes, therefore affecting performance. “It’s the same for composites. However, we do offer composite cases in the Endurance Pro, which is equipped with a thermos-compensated SuperQuartz movement, but for the Avenger we wanted a more robust and bold feel, which is why we tested steel, explored titanium and then ceramic, which is a game changer because now we can offer black cases.” “When I arrived at Breitling, my first two years were quite tough because I was used to easier approval processes. Half of what I tried was rejected. I even tried to change the rules, believing I needed more flexibility – I couldn’t use black dials only because that was what worked. Frankly, I thank them for telling me ‘no’, because I think this is what makes Breitling so unique. All pieces are not only extremely precise and reliable, but they also last a very long time. This pays dividends in product quality and how loyal customers are to the brand,” he concludes. ■
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SYLVAIN BERNERON, CHIEF PRODUCT OFFICER FOR BREITLING, REFLECTS ON THE JOURNEY TO UPDATING THIS STORIED PERFORMANCE WATCH
THE MAGIC
BEHIND THE
MASTERPIECES
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THE POWER AND ENERGY OF NATURE’S FINEST GEMSTONES ARE THE SECRETS BEHIND SOME OF THE WORLD’S FINEST JEWELLERY COLLECTIONS WORDS DEBBIE HATHWAY
A
t Watches and Wonders Geneva last year, I sat awestruck as I was given a sneak preview of the high jewellery pieces from the Chopard Red Carpet Collection 2022. I have always been sensitive to the power of gemstones, something I share with the maison’s co-president and artistic director Caroline Scheufele. As I draped a small fortune in diamonds (204.35cts) over my hand – a choker in Fairmined-certified ethical 18kt white gold set with those brilliant gems – I shivered so violently my host couldn’t hide her amusement. Their energy was electric.
But, where do gems get their power? “They all have a crystalline structure that can collect, store and release electromagnetic energy, similar to the way today’s commonplace battery does,” writes Brenda Knight in her book Gem Magic. “Each one is unique for the energy it emits and how it interacts with our aura.” Caroline says she is always in awe of beautiful gems (despite seeing them every day) and is respectful of their natural creation, a product of our planet containing all the beauty and energy of billions of years. “The most beautiful [gemstones] come from South Africa – at least the big ones,” she says. Her decision to buy or not to buy depends on whether the stones “speak” to her, and whether they are rough or already cut. Some of these featured in Chopard’s reveal earlier this year at Paris Haute Couture Week, and are a rare and precious set of exceptional coloured diamonds, rubies, sapphires and Paraiba tourmalines, with the promise of spectacular jewellery pieces to come. The maison also presented new Haute Joaillerie pieces that included: a fancy intense yellow diamond suspended from a white diamond necklace, which was over 100 carats; a ring showcasing a 30.63-carat fancy intense yellow ovalcut diamond; and a necklace graced with sculpted rose gold, diamond and pink sapphire motifs inspired by the lace collars of 17th-century courtiers’ costumes. “The earliest humans made use of the unique properties of crystals,” writes Brenda, but the Egyptians were probably most conscious of their power. “They used them as objects of protection, power, wisdom and love for the living and the dead.”
The power of jewellery was a strong theme in the fantasy drama Game of Thrones, and featured in the first chapter of the Fabergé x Game of Thrones High Jewellery story ‘Dragon’. Designs for these highly collectable pieces (limited to 10 each of only five designs) are inspired by orphan-turned-warrior Daenerys Targaryen’s epic odyssey, her unwavering devotion to her dragons, her unrelenting quest for the coveted Iron Throne, and her mastery in utilising jewellery as a symbol of her authority and influence. Her fiery spirit and passion for her dragons are represented by responsibly sourced Gemfields Mozambican rubies. Gemfields’ gemmologist, Elena Basaglia, explains their importance: “Rubies have long been associated with passion, power and protection, making this vibrant red gem a fitting choice. North-eastern Mozambique has become renowned for yielding some of the world’s most outstanding rubies, displaying unrivalled colour and clarity as seen in these striking pieces. Each gemstone has been sourced responsibly by Gemfields, which means it creates a positive impact for the country and community from which it originates, mindful of the environment and proudly bringing benefit to Mozambican people.” In the creation of the Fabergé x Game of Thrones White and Rose Gold Diamond Transformable Ear Cuff and Choker, the interconnected design embodies Daenerys’ capacity to adapt and harness her strength as the circumstances required. This remarkable piece features a responsibly sourced pear-cut Gemfields Mozambican ruby, elegantly set within a rose gold flame emerging from the dragon’s mouth. This fiery motif symbolises the vitality that foreshadows the dragons’ resurgence.
O P P O S I T E:
Louis Vuitton Deep Time Flower Necklace, pink gold, white gold, one LV Monogram Star-cut diamond of 0.57cts – F VVS2, rubies, pink sapphires and diamonds A B O V E:
Fabergé x Game of Thrones White and Rose Gold Ruby and Diamond Dragon Ear Cuff crafted mainly from 18kt white gold incorporating pear-cut Gemfields Mozambican rubies, pink sapphires and 18kt rose gold for a warm glow.
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YOUR
Fabergé’s head of design, Liisa Tallgren, says: “The crescendo of ‘Chapter One: Dragon’ is a design which spotlights a row of diamonds and rubies that metaphorically burst into flames, showcasing that the dragons are back and full of life.” “Geologists are fond of explaining the varying colours of crystals as chemical impurities and, while that may well be so, I prefer to liken the development of crystalline colour to the making of a fine wine,” explains Brenda on how crystals in nature gain unique qualities from the surrounding rocks and minerals. “Gems have notes, like a perfume, wine or even music.” Laurence Graff has been enchanted by yellow diamonds since he founded the House of Graff, which is renowned for discovering, cutting, polishing and setting many of the finest diamonds ever certified. Among them is The Golden Empress, a fancy intense yellow of 132.55 carats. “No one understands how to unleash the dramatic hues within a coloured diamond quite like Graff. For this reason, we are renowned for yellow diamonds and celebrate their vibrancy and brilliance within our designs,” says Anne-Eva Geffroy, design director at Graff.
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YOUR
O P P O S I T E, L E F T:
Chopard Haute Joaillerie Coloured Dreams rings O P P O S I T E, B OT TO M R I G H T:
Pomellato Nudo Collection rings L E F T:
Louis Vuitton Deep Time Bones Bracelets and Drift Rings B E LO W
Bulgari Crimson Rose Serpenti Bangle
“Our design DNA is strong; however, we continue to write our story, so our freedom within our creations is incomparable. Before designing, we study each diamond carefully to uncover the secrets within its depths. Only then do we create, and when we do, we work to accentuate the natural beauty of the stone. Often the stones guide the design, and other universes, such as themes from nature, history and architecture, also inspire us.” Anne-Eva adds, “As a vertically integrated business, we have access to a constant supply of the best stones – very few
jewellers have the luxury of such a wide range of yellows at their fingertips. As a result, fancy vivid yellow diamonds are included in an array of jewels at Graff, from our iconic collections to high-jewellery pieces.” The Graff Sunrise collection – which contains gems radiating outwards like sun rays – was revealed at Paris Haute Couture Week alongside a new high-jewellery necklace featuring an extremely rare 30-carat fancy intense yellow pear-shaped diamond, accompanied by 138 carats of yellow and white diamonds. “We create a balance that is in service of the yellow – and by pairing yellow and white together, we increase the intensity and vibrancy of colour. These vibrant jewels bring me the most happiness to work with; they ripple like the sun on the sea,” says Anne-Eva. Meanwhile, green, purple and blue are the most popular colours for Nudo, Pomellato’s signature design. The collection perfectly exemplifies how Pomellato creative director Vincenzo Castaldo has guided the house’s distinctive style since 2015 – pushing creative boundaries while respecting its deeply ingrained heritage of craftsmanship and Milanese spirit of pioneering design. Defined by its square silhouette and asymmetrical
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HAPPY SPORT
GEMS
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Richard Greig of Charles Greig Jewellers says the colour green is prevalent in gemstones and other luxury items. “We have sourced fine quality green tourmalines from Namibia, which are then faceted to perfection in IdarOberstein, Germany. Chrome and mint tourmalines are the most sought after.”
A never-before-seen Graff high jewellery necklace featuring a rare Fancy Intense Yellow pear-shape diamond (30.28cts), oval yellow diamonds and white diamonds (total 167.85cts)
“Since 1967, Pomellato dared to unite tradition and innovation, diamonds with colour gemstones, goldsmithing expertise with experimentation. But always with one unchangeable rule: make it by hand, with passion and devotion,” says Vincenzo. The result? Discreet elegance conveyed with whispers of excellence. Nature holds as the overarching inspiration for Louis Vuitton’s Deep Time – an epic journey through the aeons, narrated by the most exceptional stones in the maison’s fifth high-jewellery collection designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof, artistic director for watches and jewellery. Deep Time comprises more than 170 unique pieces – including 95 in the first chapter alone – and a record number of precious stones. The collection marries its distinctive design and high-jewellery craftsmanship with the geological roots of gemstones. “At Louis Vuitton, we are adventurers, travelling to extraordinary, unexpected places,” says Francesca. “Deep Time will transport you deeply into the past, to a time and place that is so remote and perhaps even difficult to comprehend. But at the same time, the stones – these treasures that span millennia – will bring you right there, to the beginning of the planet and into a history of the world and its mystical geological legacy.” Divided into two acts – geology and life – the collection explores 16 themes, 13 of which are introduced in its debut. The jewels are increasingly versatile, with many designed to be worn in multiple ways. “We have this incredible ambition to find the most beautiful stones, which in Deep Time are all connected to a theme, whether formed from lava, hail from different continents or symbolise an idea,” she says. “Deep Time is a celebration of the past, but also the beauty of nature and the incredible fragility of life.” Featured gems include “exclusively no oil” Colombian emeralds, mandarin garnets and raspberry-pink tourmalines, sapphires from Sri Lanka, zircons, opals, yellow sapphires, aquamarines, rubies, Paraiba tourmalines from Mozambique, tanzanites from Tanzania, rubellite and spessartite garnet cabochons, pink sapphires and, of course, diamonds. ■
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Rings by Charles Greig Jewellers feature green tourmalines set in 18kt gold Oliver Smith Jeweler’s Prism Collection includes deceptively simple pieces showcasing just a single stone, and others that are inspired by the colours of the rainbow. “Almost every piece is different. The quality and saturation of the sapphires is very high, which makes them all the more vivid,” he says.
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Oliver Smith’s series of bold designs are drawn from a mix of coloured sapphires that he collected in shades reminiscent of ’70s fashion, an era that sparked a leap in his artistic development
Alan Carrington of Shemer Jewellers, soon to open a new store in Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton, says dominant colours for Moraglione creations for 2023/24 trace the seasons and reflect a gorgeous natural colour palette from vivid greens and bright yellows to elegant greys and blacks.
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Anastasia by Moraglione ring and earrings in green, yellow gold, emeralds and white diamonds. Semiprecious stone is mother of pearl, green agate and lemon quartz
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facetted cut, and presented in rings or earrings made from sustainably sourced precious metal, Nudo’s three new gemstone colours are next level. Simply put, Pomellato has found a way to create new shades by stacking stone on stone, leaving no trace of a join visible to the naked eye. Green prasiolite is placed carefully over malachite, flanked by a green tsavorite pavé, purple amethyst is presented by mauve jade flanked by an amethyst pavé, while lapis lazuli deepens the intensity of London Blue topaz with a pavé of blue sapphires on either side.
TICK-TOCK
RENAISSANCE IN A WORLD WHERE INGENUITY AND HOROLOGY CONVERGE, INNOVATION SETS WATCHMAKERS APART WORDS DEBBIE HATHWAY
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fascinating renaissance is unfolding in the heart of the watchmaking world, where the delicate symphony of tick-tock meets the relentless march of ingenuity. Innovation in high-end watchmaking transcends the mere creation of proprietary materials or the interpretation of intricate complications – it’s a profound journey that involves reimagining every facet, including the art of design. These are some of the luxury brands pushing the boundaries of tradition and embracing forward-thinking designs, complications and materials.
NEW MOVEMENTS The Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time (Ref. 5224R) attracted much attention at Watches and Wonders Geneva earlier this year. It features a reworked movement enabling a unique local- and home-time display via two central hands, one of which can be adjusted in one-hour increments. To achieve this, Patek Philippe’s engineers added a 24-hour and Travel Time mechanism to the 31-260 ultra-thin self-winding base calibre to create the new calibre 31-260 PS FUS 24H. A patented correction mechanism maintains its elegant aesthetics by replacing the conventional local time adjustment pushers on the case’s left side and implementing a system where the crown can be pulled to an intermediate position, allowing backward and forward adjustments in one-hour intervals. Rolex released a modern tribute to the famous Daytona reference 6263 with a reverse-panda colourway “exotic dial” design for the 100th anniversary of the 24 Hours of Le Mans race. The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona for 24 Hours of Le Mans (left) includes the tachymeter bezel’s “100” in red and a chronograph that counts up to 24 hours instead of the usual 12. This required developing a new version of the 4131 movement. At the start of Rolex’s 2023 international motorsport season, Tom Kristensen, Rolex testimonee, endurance-racing legend and nine-time winner of 24 Hours of Le Mans, said: “This year has brought a number of changes, with advancements in technology and engineering, alongside many new teams and drivers entering. That is what Rolex and motorsport are about – always improving and breaking down the boundaries of possibility.”
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Innovation in complications and user-friendly simplicity embody the essence of the Parmigiani Fleurier brand. The world premiere Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante (top left) is nominated in the Men’s Complication category of this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Awards. In addition to superimposed hour hands, superimposed minute hands take centre stage, exemplifying the brand’s commitment to reimagining functionalities to meet modern demands. This watch integrates scuba functionality into the movement, eliminating the need for a rotating bezel, and it boasts up to 60 metres of water resistance.
“Watchmaking TRANSCENDS the mere creation of proprietary MATERIALS”
A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus Chronograph (above) caused quite a stir, with collectors clamouring for one of the 100 pieces produced. The watch features its first self-winding chronograph movement, the L156.1 DATOMATIC calibre, designed to reset both centrally positioned chronograph hands to zero. Meanwhile, Ulysse Nardin revealed a futuristic reinterpretation of its technologically exceptional Freak, aptly named the Freak One (centre). With a patented winding system removing the need for a crown, this unique watch features a winding mechanism concealed beneath the dial, eliminating conventional watch hands. Rotating the caseback winds the watch while turning the bezel adjusts hours and minutes. A single bridge above the dial supports the orbital flying carousel mechanism, revealing the Dual Direct Escapement and exposed gears. The movement bridge also serves as the minutes hand, making a complete revolution each hour, while a rotating disc beneath the bridge signifies the hours.
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Bell & Ross presents a fresh take on its iconic BR 03 design for the BR 03 Cyber Rainbow (opposite, bottom), an audacious, unique and innovative timepiece exclusively made for the 2023 edition of Only Watch, an annual auction fundraiser for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The watch’s craftsmanship shines not only in its mechanical mechanism, but also in the intricate case details. It boasts an entire 3D skeleton movement with an oscillating weight, highlighting its technical prowess. The bridges, crafted from DLC micro-blasted metal, feature varnish-filled pockets, and the micro-blasted metal hands are enhanced with white SLN for optimal legibility. This exceptional calibre features a self-winding system that ensures a reliable 48-hour power reserve while revealing only the movement and colourful bridges, emphasising the dial’s striking appearance.
NEW MATERIALS
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, designed in two versions, pays homage to the 60th anniversaries of the TAG Heuer Carrera collection and the Porsche 911 (originally called 901). Merging elements from both the watch and the car, speed and precision converge to capture the essence of the Porsche 901’s ability to reach 0-100km/h in 9.1 seconds. Likewise, the new TH20-08 enables the central hand to swiftly accelerate, gradually decelerate over 60 seconds, and quickly restart. “This watch perfectly encapsulates the essence of the motorsport universe, a shared value in our partnership with Porsche. We have seamlessly merged the heritage of the 911 and the TAG Heuer Carrera, leveraging cutting-edge technology and unique design,” said Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer. Omega’s legacy combines some of history’s greatest achievements, from deep-sea explorations to lunar missions. However, one of this year’s standout accomplishments is surprisingly petite in scale. The brand’s new stainless steel Speedmaster Super Racing (opposite far left) is meticulously calibrated for precision, thanks to the innovative Spirate™ System, a patent-pending spiral mechanism that enables ultra-fine rate adjustments. Crafted from silicon wafers, these unique spirals utilise an internal manufacturing process known as DRIE (Deep Reactive Ion Etching), which allows Omega to attain a certified precision of only 0/+2 seconds daily.
As far back as the 1930s, Belgian-French jeweller Jeanne Toussaint ignited dazzling collisions between opulence and the mechanical allure of ball bearings. This bridge between the past and present is illustrated in the Clash [Un]limited timepiece (left), which uses colour contrasts to accentuate its geometric patterns. Created exclusively for Cartier, this is done by alternating brushed and satin-finished gold, then combining yellow or rose gold with a novel hue called violet gold. This distinctive shade adorns the watch, from the square-shaped clasp to the delicate beads embellishing the bracelet. Cartier’s culture of design is evident in the movement of the beads seamlessly gliding over one another and the articulation of the bracelet’s hinges – all arranged to produce the ideal jewellery watch. Masters in the art of goldsmithing and the use of high-tech materials, Bulgari has created some surprising new material combinations and expanded its array to include titanium, platinum, rose and yellow gold, ceramic and tantalum. Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo concept now embraces carbon and gold, reflecting the brand’s distinctive position as a watchmaking jeweller. The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic and the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar (above) redefine contemporary horology, blending style and innovation to make a bold statement. The case, strap and dial – all crafted from lightweight, matte-finished, anthracite-coloured carbon – create a high-tech canvas against which the golden display elements and crown are highlighted. IWC Schaffhausen’s Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces is inspired by its collaborations with US Navy squadrons. Its standout feature is a luminous white dial crafted from a solid disc of Super-LumiNova® that emits a vivid greenish glow in the dark, enhancing night visibility. That effect endured for more than 23 hours in dark chamber tests. The watch is encased in black zirconium oxide ceramic and is driven by the IWCmanufactured 32100 calibre movement with a 72-hour power reserve. This exclusive timepiece is available solely via iwc.com.
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“The J.N. SHAPIRO RESURGENCE (above) is the MOST EXPENSIVE timeonly watch ever made in the US”
Panerai has introduced its first-ever 45mm version of the Radiomir California (above right) – 2mm smaller than the traditional case size. With its distinctive dark green dial, this boutique-exclusive model combines Roman and Arabic numerals with bar indexes and a minute track. The case boasts a new finishing technique called Brunito eSteel™, giving an aged appearance. Completing the ensemble is a raw-cut leather strap with understated stitching and a “G. Panerai e Figlio” inscription. Hermès’ H08 (above) sporty and elegant line has received a vibrant makeover thanks to the introduction of striking blue, yellow, orange and green colour choices for the woven rubber straps, markers and hands. Incorporating a novel composite material crafted from a fusion of carbon fibre and graphene powder, the watch is robust, light and comfortable for everyday wear.
The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence (above) by independent US watchmaker Josh Shapiro is the first all-American wristwatch to be produced since the Hamilton Watch Company stopped manufacturing watches in the country in 1969. It’s also the most expensive time-only watch ever made in the US. Four exclusive elements make it unique: a layered guilloché dial, engine-turned mid case, damaskeening pattern on the bridges (American equivalent of Côtes de Genève), and rounded spokes on the wheels. The multi-layered dial is available in customisable colours and includes separate engine-turned sectors that showcase multiple patterns, such as barleycorn and Shapiro’s distinctive Infinity weave. Each layer presents a different piece of metal, engine-turned separately, trimmed and milled for a perfect fit – it’s never been done before. The original J.N. Shapiro Resurgence series is priced from $70,000 for a dark zirconium case and dial with purple accents, to a rose gold case and accents with a frosted silver-white dial or dark grey zirconium dial at $85,000. ■
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Still in military territory, Tudor’s new Pelagos FXD pays tribute to its history on the wrists of US Navy divers. The “FXD” designation alludes to the rugged FiXeD strap bars of the case, initially developed for combat swimmers. This 42mm titanium case features unique fixed strap bars machined into its body for durability. The durable watch also boasts an ergonomic 60-notch rotating bezel that’s unidirectional with a 60-minutegraduated ceramic insert, meeting ISO standard 6425:2018 for divers’ watches.
The TYPE 1° Round by Ressence (previous page, top left) extends the brand’s minimalist approach to displaying time with ergonomic design. Combining the iconic pebble design of the TYPE 3 with the sleekness of the TYPE 1, it aims to celebrate simple, essential and sensual shapes. The sapphire crystal and case blend seamlessly for a minimalist profile, the new Night Blue colour eases time reading and the silver metallic discs create interesting reflections. The dial is simplified with 10-minute indexes, a weekday dial featuring a touch of colour to distinguish non-working days, and larger second and weekday hands to improve readability. Like all Ressence watches, winding happens automatically when setting the time, making it intuitive. The absence of a crown ensures comfort for both left and right wearers.
A NEW CHAPTER WHEN CARTIER’S LE VOYAGE RECOMMENCÉ HIGH JEWELLERY COLLECTION LAUNCHED IN FLORENCE EARLIER THIS YEAR, IT WAS A JOURNEY INTO THE HEART OF THE BRAND’S CREATION WORDS INGRID WOOD
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e Voyage Recommencé shows, once again, that there is no limit to the Cartier craftsmen’s and designers’ curiosity and creativity. Each year they manage to delve into the essential themes of Cartier’s style – fauna and flora, architecture, geometry, global cultures and unique colour palettes – while still respecting the heritage in an ongoing quest for beauty and innovation. This season, the spirit of the collection is about discovery and new adventures. The creative thread is light and works with design to ensure the stones express their true brilliance.
Since the turn of the 20th century, Louis Cartier always explored different paths in his quest for modernity, and this focus on evolution continues in the maison. “Every collection is an opportunity to reveal a new and distinctive aspect of the Cartier style; a style that is unique and multi-faceted at the same time,” explains Jacqueline Karachi, director of high jewellery creation at Cartier. “It is also an opportunity to enrich the Cartier vocabulary, a living language that is constantly evolving with time.” This Cartier ‘language’ is second nature to the team working on the high jewellery collection, says Pierre Rainero, image, style and heritage director. “What you learn in my position is really to think ‘Cartier’ and not to think ‘me’,” he explains, attributing the success of marrying tradition and novelty to the vision of the founders. “They wanted to express a very specific point of view on what is a beautiful object, while being open to new visions, new explorations. The idea is that beauty is not something that is frozen. Louis Cartier himself explored many different ways of conveying that idea of beauty, but with a very strong point of view of what jewellery should be. And his successor Jean Toussaint projected that vision until the 1970s. So, we have a very consistent, coherent period of evolution of that vision and have always cultivated a very strong Cartier style. That is still the path that we follow.” Pierre works closely with the studio, discussing and unpacking this style. “It’s a constant exchange,” he says. The Tutti Frutti collection, for example – which has had enormous success since the first iteration appeared in 1920 – is a result of an ongoing dialogue between the designers, jewellers and engineers. “It is the link between knowledge and ability, the tools of yesterday and the techniques of today, between the pioneering spirit of Louis Cartier and the contemporary vision of the maison,” says Jacqueline.
EVERYTHING STARTS WITH A STONE It’s a glittering story, so naturally everything revolves around the gems. “The most exciting part of this dialogue is how you combine the stones. We are always looking for a stone with an extra soul that is different from the rest. What story does it tell; where does it come from; what does this emerald cut into a ribbed ball, this sapphire, or this flowered ruby evoke? The stones inspire us, which in turn offers them an appropriate setting for their beauty,” explains Jacqueline. “The search for a stone is different each time. It is a new quest as each trip is a discovery. We go from surprise to surprise. Some stones are becoming rarer and other new ones are emerging with the opening of new mines, for example. Finding the stone is like love at first sight – the stone moves us, seduces us and awakens our emotions.”
TRANSFORMABLE JEWELS Many of the pieces in the high jewellery collection can be worn in different ways – another example of how Cartier continues to adapt to the times, enabling customers to personalise the way they wear their jewellery for either special occasions or every day. The Tutti Purnima necklace, which the team worked on for 23 months, can be worn in three different ways as the main creation consists of two distinct necklaces: a thin one adorned with the four-stone pendant, and another evoking an embroidered collar. The piece gets its name from the word for full moon in Sanskrit. “Faithful to the grand Tutti Frutti tradition, this necklace mixes rubies, emeralds and sapphires in a very luxuriant composition,” says Jacqueline. “The composition seems to blossom around the four precious gems – a sapphire from Ceylon, a ruby from Mozambique and two emeralds from Zambia.” The 4.02-carat diamond in the Claustra necklace is surrounded by a set of shield diamonds, alternating with onyx. The necklace can be separated in two, but the parts hold and fit together when worn.
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Pierre Rainero, image, style and heritage director (left) and Jacqueline Karachi, director of high jewellery creation at Cartier J E W E L S, C LO C KW I S E F R O M TO P:
The Claustra necklace can be separated in two, but the parts hold and fit together when worn; the Panthère Givrée honours the iconic Cartier panther; the Ondule ring has a 0.92-carat grey-violet diamond at the centre, surrounded by half-moon diamonds, which form a ‘halo’ around the hero; the Tutti Purnima consists of two distinct necklaces and can be worn in three different ways; the Sama Necklace, with its 19.27-carat Ceylon sapphire, has a series of curves to produce the sensation of motion
And then, of course, there’s the famous panther. The first representation of the svelte feline goes as far back as 1914 when Louis Cartier was inspired by the panther’s coat and used it to decorate a platinum, diamond and onyx watch. The panther takes centre stage again in the Panthère Givrée necklace, with its almond-shaped emerald eyes which appear to watch over a set of three aquamarines totalling 20.33 carats, while the onyx’s spotted coat and fine touches of lapis lazuli play on the contrast. “Today, because of the global evolution of images and the awareness that the panther now enjoys, we can play with a part of it, using just pixels of black and white, and everybody understands the presence of a panther in the design,” says Pierre of the icon, which is always the same, yet ever-changing. ■
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n an automotive world that is hurtling toward electrification, BMW has cemented itself in the future with its Battery Electric Vehicle (BEV) lineup. This collection of electric vehicles is designed to elevate your driving pleasure while also championing environmental responsibility by being 100 percent electric.
BMW’s i range offers customers an ecoconscious solution to seamlessly migrate to an all-electric, ‘off-the-grid’ lifestyle. It has been cleverly designed and developed to effortlessly integrate into your existing way of life. Charging your BEV could not be easier with BMW’s home-charging solutions, as well as its integrated public-charging infrastructure. With 350 public charging stations available across South Africa, range anxiety becomes obsolete. BMW has a BEV in its lineup for every customer. Each one is unmistakably BMW and engineered for a greener future through cutting-edge technology, reduced carbon emissions and the use of more sustainable materials. With the increasing interest in BEVs in South Africa, BMW has placed itself firmly at the forefront of this changing landscape. It’s only a matter of time before we see BMW’s long-term vision come into fruition. You can be a part of this future, today.
BMW REDEFINES MOBILITY AND TAKES US INTO THE FUTURE WITH ITS RANGE OF ELECTRIC VEHICLES
FEELS LIKE HOME
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THE ULTIMATE LUXURY
BMW has taken its benchmark luxury brand to an entirely new level with the iX3. This all-electric version of the popular X3 blends renowned BMW driving dynamics, the latest tech and a luxurious interior with an advanced all-electric powertrain.
For those who really want to make a style statement, the iX offers a bold design that is guaranteed to turn heads. In contrast, the cabin is minimalist – and for all the right reasons. It’s the BEV family member that makes you feel like you are in the future, today.
On the other end of the spectrum is BMW’s flagship sedan, the i7. This luxury saloon takes comfort levels to completely new heights. In fact, it might just be the BEV you want to be chauffeured around in, rather than having to drive yourself.
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The iX1 is the entry point into BMW’s BEV family. It is based on its X1 sibling and mimics the same design in many ways. This means that customers can step straight from an ICE vehicle into an EV and sense that comfortable familiarity.
For the true petrol heads who don’t want to compromise on performance, the BMW M division is not going anywhere. The i4 is available locally in the performanceorientated M50 spec complete with an exhilarating soundscape composed by acclaimed film scorer, Hans Zimmer. ■
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Some of the cars in BMW’s i range, (from left) the i4, i7 and iX F R O M L E F T:
The iX3, the iX interior, the i7 interior, the iX1, the i4
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ELABORATE DESIGNS BY THE SELF-TAUGHT INDEPENDENT CLOCKMAKER – WHOSE FIRST CREATION WAS ‘UGLY AS HELL’ – ARE SOUGHT AFTER BY COLLECTORS WORLDWIDE WORDS DEBBIE HATHWAY
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ugoslavian-born Miki Eleta, a former football coach, musician and kinetic artist with a background in the social sciences, decided rather late in life – because of a chance encounter – to pursue a career as a clockmaker. After relocating to Switzerland as a young man, he lived more than half his life in the heart of watchmaking territory without entering the industry, until an opportunity arose through a bet. “About 23 years ago, when I was around 50, I was looking for new things to do – despite a busy programme – so I developed a kinetic mechanism for a clock,” says Miki. When he presented this work, called Chaos, at an exhibition, a visitor who did not understand the machine described the work as “raw” and said he could never make anything “precise”. Miki accepted this challenge and promised to deliver a clock in a year, duly presenting and selling it immediately, even though he said it was “ugly as hell”. While the inventor of the clock and the date of its invention are unknown, author GH Baillie writes in his book Watches that the date is probably near the end of the 13th century. Because the use of the same word – horologium, orlogio, reloge, uhr, etc – by different nationalities for a sundial, water clock, sandglass, hour bell and clock, makes it difficult to interpret the records, some writers take it as far back as the ninth century. Miki’s approach to clockmaking, which was entirely self-taught over almost three decades, is underpinned by artistic achievements in the kinetic space. Some of his notable artworks include the fountain at the Musée International de l’Horlogerie’s entrance in La Chaux-de-Fonds and a captivating kinetic sculpture featuring musical harlequins above the entrance to the CIMA (Centre International de la Mechanique d’Art) museum in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland. Additionally, his work has been showcased at the MB&F MAD Gallery in Geneva.
Miki Eleta –
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Miki’s most recent accolade is the nomination of his exceptional work, The Passage of Time, in the Mechanical Clock category of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Awards 2022. The clock (previous page), which took 10 months to complete, is 70cm high and weighs about 20kg. With 28 complications, it has an eight-day power reserve. Features include an hour display (sun for the day, moon for the night), a retrograde minute display, a day-of-the-week display, 365 days, date and zodiac signs, moon phase and universal time, and a figure that raises his left arm and lowers his head to read the time approximately every 20 seconds. “The philosophy refers to today’s alwaysstressed people,” says Miki. Each piece is handcrafted from brass or steel before being sent for gold or chrome plating. “For me, a clock is much more than just a timepiece. Through its shape and message, I can pass on some of my experience in making it. The joy of precise movements, of sounds, of harmonic shapes, and of the inexhaustible possibilities to answer the questions: What exactly is a clock, what do we want to express with it, and how must the mechanics work?”, says Miki. He likes to arouse curiosity with his creations, and enjoys having customers who don’t know exactly what to expect until they see the final product in front of them. “I make the clock and try to create a ‘wow’ effect. If you like it, I’m happy. But it’s important that the work of art has a character, a message. It’s not about money, it’s about art. It’s more about me being an artist. I feel what I want to do,” he says. Long-time friend, industry expert and translator for this interview, Kurt Kupper, explains that Miki personally delivers the final product, no matter where the customer is. “He takes it with him on the plane, on the seat next to him, ensuring that it’s delivered safely and everything works perfectly on site. It’s a different approach. Emotional. He’s not selling you a product – he’s trusting you with his baby. He puts it in your hands,” says Kurt.
WHEN TIME AND ART COLLIDE PERFORMANCE ART: A finalist in the Mechanical Clocks category of the GPHG Awards, the Éveil du Cyclamen by Van Cleef & Arpels (below left) is priced at a jaw-dropping CHF 2,580,000. This unique work of art, created in partnership with the François Junod workshop, is about 30cm tall. Inspired by nature, it combines the reading of time on the base with a magical spectacle: the opening of a flower on demand, revealing a butterfly inside. Its wings move realistically, batting a few seconds at a time for a natural rhythm leading to a meticulously researched take-off. The butterfly then returns to its place at the centre of the flower, triggering the gentle closing of the petals. Specially composed crystalline music accompanies the flower’s opening and closing scenes. EXCEPTIONAL MOTORS: This dome table clock (20149M-001 “Racing Cars”, below middle), featured in Patek Philippe’s Rare Handcrafts Exhibition 2023, is a unique piece in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel, conjuring up all the excitement and panache of sports car motor racing along mountain roads from the 1940s to 1960s. The artist used approximately 8.17m of 0.2mm x 0.6mm gold wire and 71 enamel colours for the car and figure contours. Each enamelled plate required eight to 12 firings at temperatures between 890°C and 900°C. The unique hour circle, resembling a steering wheel, was made from amboyna burl and has 12 hour markers. Pierced rhodium-plated hands add racing-inspired elements and a rhodium-plated, engine-turned dashboard recalls the interiors of classic cars. A leather-clad seat completes the motoring theme. EXTRAORDINARY MECHANISM: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 (below right), nicknamed Atmos Tellurium, features a groundbreaking complication that closely replicates the Earth, sun, and moon cycles in three dimensions and real-time precision. A unique perpetual clock that runs on air, it’s the most intricate Atmos clock ever created. Blending precision and aesthetics, it inspired the artisans of the maison’s Métiers Rares® atelier to decorate it with techniques like miniature-painting, laser-engraving, lacquer-work, and meteorite inlay. It took more than four years of research and development to reach this pinnacle of precision and design, making this clock a remarkable timekeeping device and an artistic masterpiece.
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Miki loves the challenge of clockmaking and is not afraid of failure, calling his experience fascinating, playful and adventurous. “He’s a talented artist who likes to be at the workbench. His studio in Zurich is fantastic. Because he does everything himself, it’s chaotic. Creative chaos – but he says he finds everything,” laughs Kurt. ■
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GABRIELLE CHANEL. FASHION MANIFESTO IS THE FIRST UK-BASED EXHIBITION DEDICATED TO THE PIONEERING DESIGNER AND THE PROFOUND IMPACT HER WORK HAD ON THE WORLD OF FASHION
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n until 25 February 2024 at London’s Victoria & Alfred Museum and presented in partnership with Palais Galliera – the Fashion Museum of the City of Paris – and Paris Musées, the exhibition charts the evolution of Chanel’s iconic style and the establishment of the House of Chanel. Visitors will see it all – from the opening of Chanel’s first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910 to the showing of Coco’s final collection in 1971. Coco Chanel’s pioneering approach to fashion design – which included designing first and foremost for herself, creating clothes suited to independent and active lifestyles – paved the way for a new elegance. Her introduction of minimalism and precision in clothing – and the iconic little black dress – have stood the test of time, and continue to influence the way women dress today. “Gabrielle Chanel devoted her life to creating, perfecting and promoting a
new kind of elegance based on freedom of movement, a natural and casual pose, a subtle elegance that shuns all extravagances, and a timeless style for a new kind of woman. That was her fashion manifesto, a legacy that has never gone out of style,” says director of the Palais Galliera, Miren Arzalluz. “Her success was based not only on the functionality, comfort and chic elegance of her designs, but also on her ability to grasp and interpret the needs and desires of the women of her time.” Showcasing an array of Chanel’s most notable designs from her 60 years in fashion, visitors to the exhibition will be treated to almost 200 looks seen together for the first time, complete with accessories, jewellery and her iconic perfume, Chanel N°5. Ten themed sections explore Coco’s innovative approach to fabrics, silhouette and construction, and illustrate how she drafted a new framework for fashion in the 20th century. Highlights include one of the earliest surviving Chanel garments from 1916, outfits created for legendary Hollywood stars Lauren Bacall and Marlene Dietrich, and ensembles from Coco Chanel’s final collection. YourLuxury will be a guest at the exhibition in January 2024. Follow updates on yourLuxury.Africa and our social media platforms. For more info on the exhibition, visit vam.ac.uk.
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WHETHER YOU LOVE GOLD OR PLATINUM, DIAMONDS OR PEARLS, TINY TREASURES OR SHOW-STOPPING TIMEPIECES, WE’VE GOT YOU COVERED. HERE ARE 50 OF THE MOST GIFT-WORTHY WATCHES AND JEWELS FOR THE SEASON. IT’S TIME TO SHINE…
PHOTOGRAPHERS JUDD VAN RENSBURG AND DES TAK STYLIST CALLY PALMER HAIR AND MAKE-UP TAMARYN VAN TONDER AT LAMPOST BACKDROPS BRONZE AGE MODELS AI-MEE AT BOSS MODELS AND ZANELE AT ICE MODELS NAILS SORBET NAILBAR
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Rolex Day-Date 36mm in yellow gold, fluted bezel, diamond-set president bracelet with white mother-of-pearl diamond-set dial, POA O P P O S I T E:
Cartier Grain de Café earrings, yellow gold, white gold, diamonds (CRN8515268); Grain de Café necklace, yellow gold, white gold, diamonds (CRN7424507); Grain de Café ring, yellow gold, white gold, diamonds (CRN4804852), all POA; gold asinine lace dress, R54 000, Jacques Lagrange A B O V E:
(Left) Patek Philippe 5905R self-winding flyback chronograph with annual calendar in rose gold, POA, and (right) Patek Philippe 6007G_001 Calatrava self-winding calibre, white gold case with embossed “carbon” motif leather strap, POA
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A B O V E:
Rolex Yacht-Master 42mm in RLX titanium, R251 200 O P P O S I T E:
Bulgari Serpenti Viper 18kt rose gold necklace set with demi-pavé diamonds, R525 000, Serpenti Tubogas Infiniti single-spiral watch in 18kt rose gold set with diamond and full pavé dial, 30m waterresistant, R1 478 000, Serpenti Viper bracelet in 18kt pink gold with pavé diamonds, R1 323 000, Serpentine mini tote bag in black Metropolitan leather with black nappa leather lining, gold-plated brass handles, R57 000; gold anagram hexagonal cat-eye sunglasses, from R8 000, Loewe; stretch micro velvet dress with crystal collar, R39 999, Gavin Rajah
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Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 41mm, summer blue dial and stainless steel case with rubber strap, R142 000 O P P O S I T E:
Murdocks 18kt black and white diamond bracelet (total weight 7.35ct + 2.79cts), R672 490, 18kt black and white diamond earrings (total weight 3.52ct + 1.37cts), R606 990, and 14kt white gold black and white diamond ring (total weight 1.20ct + 0.30cts), R121 890; black sequin tulle dress, R28 000, Jacques Lagrange
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Duoface stainless steel, R279 000 O P P O S I T E:
Charles Greig Empress Collection over-scaled Regal Cluster ring, and triple-strand pendant earrings in black onyx, green tourmaline, blue topaz garnet and tsavorite, POA; hand embroidered black pearl cape, R49 999, Gavin Rajah
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A B O V E:
Fope bold necklace and matching bracelet with an assortment of dress rings, POA; white and gold silk and lurex georgette evening gown, R18 999, Gavin Rajah O P P O S I T E:
Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu 39mm, pavé diamond-set case in stainless steel, POA
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Fabergé x Gemfields Colours of Love 18kt rose gold ruby fluted teardrop earrings, R133 770, and 18kt rose gold ruby fluted teardrop pendant, R85 995; gold bell-sleeved crop top, R2 600, Kat van Duinen O P P O S I T E:
(Left) IWC Big Pilot’s automatic 43mm Mr Porter Bronze and Alcantara (ref: IW329703), R210 000, and (right) IWC Big Pilot’s automatic 46.2mm Perpetual Calendar, stainless steel case (ref IW503608), R652 000
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A B O V E:
Panerai Luminor Due Pastello 38mm 3-day power reserve, automatic calibre P.900 with polished steel case, light pink dial and light green dial, R142 800 (limited to 500 pieces) O P P O S I T E:
Pomellato Catene bracelet in 18kt rose gold, Catene necklace in 18kt rose gold, and Catene ring in 18kt rose gold and ring in 18kt rose gold with 56 white diamonds (1.1cts), POA; Iconica bracelet with 80 white diamonds (1ct) on 18kt white rhodium-plated rose gold, POA; tiered tulle coat with sequin scatters, R6 500, Stephen van Eeden
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A B O V E:
(Left) Zenith Pilot automatic watch, 40mm black ceramic case with an oversized crown, black corrugated dial, interchangeable black and khaki rubber straps, powered by the El Primero 3620 automatic high-frequency manufacture movement, R190 000; (right) Ulysse Nardin Diver NET Azure, 44mm, self-winding movement, 95 percent recycled stainless steel case, 60-hour power reserve, 300m water-resistant, R275 000 O P P O S I T E:
Christoff Japanese cultured pearl and diamond earrings, tier necklace with rose gold and diamond clasp buckle and bracelet with bumble bee motif, POA; hat, R13 500, Bettina Thomas Couture Hats; taffeta spiked crop top, R4 500, Kat Van Duinen
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A B O V E:
(Left) Montblanc 1858 42mm automatic Geo with blue dial and leather strap, R118 300, (right) Montblanc 1858 41mm automatic 26 Jewels with grey dial and steel bracelet, R56 900
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A B O V E:
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Stainless steel – Copper, R215 800
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A B O V E:
Tudor Pelagos FXD 42mm, titanium case with complimentary black rubber strap, R76 150 O P P O S I T E:
Charles Greig Skull and Serpent Collection rings in black onyx, diamonds, emeralds and rubies, POA; silk taffeta trench coat with crystal bow motifs, R27 788, Gavin Rajah
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A B O V E:
Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary 40mm automatic, with stainless steel case and leather strap, R57 000 O P P O S I T E:
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint X Porsche, 42mm in diameter, automatic chronograph with Calibre TH20-08 movement, 80-hour power reserve, 100m water-resistant, R190 000
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A B O V E:
Rado True Square 38mm automatic Open Heart in white ceramic, R65 300 O P P O S I T E:
Shemer 18kt rose gold eternity ring with light fancy yellow diamonds (5.20ct), R405 700, 18kt three-colour diamond tennis bracelet (7.91ct), R378 000, and 18kt yellow gold hoop earrings with diamonds (5.84ct), R194 850; Moraglione 18kt rose gold hinge bangle with diamonds (0.75ct), R119 600, and 18kt rose gold wrap-around bangle with diamonds (0.34ct), R107 750; gold brocade with hand-embroidered star bursts, R28 999, Gavin Rajah
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Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Automatic limited edition (100 pieces), 38.5mm with a 68-hour power reserve, with a G100 La Joux-Perret movement, 70 diamonds on rose gold case, 289 diamonds on the dial, R99 995 O P P O S I T E:
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(Left) Rado XL Captain Cook 43mm automatic ceramic watch, R93 700; (Right) Longines Conquest 41mm automatic with green dial and stainless steel case and bracelet, R47 700 yourluxury.africa
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QUEEN OF THE NIGHT Thameen London fragrances, described as “euphoria for your senses”, are well-known for their longevity, and the recently released Bravi – the third in the Britologne (British cologne) Collection – has remarkable sillage. The final chapter in the Covent Garden trilogy, Bravi is an ode to opera and is inspired by the iconic Royal Opera House, which once housed Covent Garden’s flower market. Perfumer Bruno Jovanovic has created an accord (an accord is a perfumer’s interpretation of an ingredient to make a new smell) that’s reminiscent of the old flower market using only one flower, neroli. As is befitting for the opera, the opulent fragrance – with tuberose, spicy ginger and a novel walnut milk accord – is a performance in itself. Thameen Bravi Cologne Elixir 100ml, R6 090, skins.co.za
AN ODE TO OUD Louis Vuitton’s Ombre Nomade is an ardent unisex perfume centred around oud, a gem in the world of perfumery. “I wanted to rise to the expectations of connoisseurs, to the true lovers of oud,” says master perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud. The intensity of traditional oud is layered with leathery, spicy and woody accents, a hint of vanillalike benzoin and accents of raspberry, rose and geranium. Ombre Nomade is available in refillable bottles that can be customised with the owner’s initials for a personal touch. Louis Vuitton Ombre Nomade EDP 100ml, R6 450, louisvuitton.com
LIQUID GOLD This year, Cartier revealed its new take on the ever-popular fragrance note of vanilla. In-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent took inspiration from her childhood for L’Heure Perdue, which launched in 2015, to present her interpretation of vanilla in the unisex Oud Vanillé, part of the Les Heures Voyageuses Collection. She combines the woody, animal notes and evocative power of oud with the powdery and sweet vanillin (the synthetic variant of vanilla). It’s beautifully balanced, thanks to the way the two ingredients enhance one another, and the sweet and spicy mix make it easy to wear. The gold-tinted bottle is embellished with Cartier’s historical Moucharaby motif. Cartier Oud Vanillé EDP, 75ml, R6 800, cartier.com
PRECIOUS JEWELS
FRAGRANCE FANATICS WHO SEEK RARE ESSENCES AND VALUABLE RAW MATERIALS WILL APPRECIATE THE HIGH PERFUMERY OF THESE INTENSE SCENTS WORDS INGRID WOOD
The Graff Lesedi La Rona collection draws on the brand’s reputation of transforming diamonds into one-of-a-kind jewels. The Graff Lesedi La Rona (meaning ‘our light’ in Tswana) was cut and polished from a 1.109ct rough diamond uncovered in Botswana. The process, which took over 18 months, resulted in 67 stones, including an exceptional 302ct diamond named the Graff Lesedi La Rona. The six fragrances in the collection, made from precious ingredients sourced around the world, depict the multi-faceted beauty of the stone. Lesedi La Rona 1 is a woody, powdery floral; 11 is a woody citrus; 111 is a floral chypre; IV is an edible Oriental; V is an Oriental floral; and VI is an Oriental woody. All are housed in crystal bottles inspired by the cut of the famous diamond. Graff Lesedi La Rona EDP 100m, R5 500, graff.com
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A SENSORY JOURNEY Devotion Eau de Parfum is Dolce&Gabbana’s delectable new fragrance for women. Oliver Cresp, the nose behind the scent, says the blend of candied lemon, orange blossom and vanilla is a celebration of the Italian dessert, panettone. A powerful expression of the brand’s DNA, the bottle is adorned wth Dolce&Gabbana’s iconic Sacred Heart, which has been magnificently reproduced in three-dimensional antiqued zamak. It’s a true reflection of style, detail and craftsmanship. The scent, which is made in Italy with the best raw materials, aims to highlight the quintessential Italian lifestyle. The glass bottle is refillable and the packaging is made from recyclable natural paper. Devotion EDP 100ml, R 3 360, at Edgars, Woolworths, Truworths, Foschini and ARC
“Creed Carmina is inspired by the BOLD women in Henry Creed’s SKETCHBOOKS” CREATIVE TAILORING
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The House of Creed is another fragrance house that draws on the most exquisite ingredients, which are mixed and macerated – in most cases by hand – in an artisanal factory near Fontainebleau in France. The latest scent, Creed Carmina, is inspired by Henry Creed’s sketchbooks of bold women dressed in voluminous, luxurious fabrics that were recently rediscovered in the maison’s private rooms on Paris’s Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie. Drawing on the feminine allure of these fabrics and their rich colours, the perfume delivers a floral, woody scent with captivating notes of pink pepper, black cherry, saffron, rose de Mai, violet, peony, cashmere wood, amber and musk. Creed Carmina EDP 75ml, R6 720, skins.co.za
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Enjoy Responsibly. Not for sale to persons under the age of 18.
ETERNAL ELEGANCE AND A SENSE OF HISTORY COME STANDARD AT THESE HISTORIC AFRICAN ADDRESSES, WHILE A DOSE OF INNOVATION KEEPS THEM RELEVANT AND LUXURIOUS WORDS RICHARD HOLMES
Timeless Charm T H E V I C T O R I A FA L L S V I C T O R I A FA L L S
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Set on a dramatic promontory overlooking the Batoka Gorge in Zimbabwe with the mist from ‘The Smoke that Thunders’ rising up at the end of the gardens, The Victoria Falls Hotel has for years been one of the ‘grand old ladies’ of African hotels. And, unfortunately, it started to show. Paint peeled, the rooms looked tired and not even the spirited dinner service in the formal Livingstone Room could stave off the passage of time. But this bastion of fine living above the Zambezi has turned a corner. The first phase of a major restoration project was completed in late 2022, revamping a swathe of rooms in the hotel. The signature Livingstone and Batoka suites have been entirely refurbished, while new premium rooms encapsulate the hotel’s 119-year history while introducing a host of contemporary luxuries. King-size beds, walk-in showers and technological upgrades have brought one of the most storied hotels of the early 20th-century firmly into the
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21st. The addition of a private lounge for premium guests is another welcome addition, and it’s a boon for guests hopping aboard the regular Rovos Rail service that departs from the platform just beyond the lobby. The refurb has also breathed new life into the restaurants, bars and public spaces, most notably the Stanley Terrace. Is there a more famous afternoon tea north of the Limpopo? Surely not, and whether you’re a resident guest or outside visitor, the chance to soak up a time-honoured tradition in full view of Africa’s most remarkable natural wonder makes The Victoria Falls Hotel one for the bucket list. victoriafallshotel.com
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The Polana Hotel has welcomed guests for more than 100 years, gritting her teeth through civil war and a rocky post-independence economy. And yet, this grande dame has emerged with her dignity intact, and still holds sway as the most elegant address in Maputo. After a day discovering the (somewhat faded) Art Deco architecture and vibrant cultural scene downtown, retire to the vintage charm of the Mozambican capital’s most famous hotel. Indoors it’s all sweeping staircases and crystal chandeliers and, despite the hotel’s age, a series of refurbishments have kept the Polana remarkably up to date. The best of the hotel’s 164 rooms and 24 suites offer delightful sea views. And though Maputo has no shortage of eateries worth a visit, the Varanda Restaurant remains the table of choice for business breakfasts, lazy lunches or dinner al fresco, with a view over Maputo Bay. serenahotels.com
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B E L M O N D M O U N T N E L S O N , C A P E T O W N What’s not to love about The Nellie, as locals affectionately know the elegant rosy-hued hotel set just above the city centre? Set on a nine-acre estate with rooms in both the historic main building and surrounding annexes, it has been one of the city’s most sophisticated addresses since 1899. It’s the afternoon tea locals love most, served daily on the terrace with inspired creations by pastry chef Vicky Gurovich. For others, it’s the Planet Bar, a chic hideaway with an enviable wine selection and talented mixologists behind the bar. If you’re lucky enough to stay the night this summer, you’ll revel in the manicured gardens and private hotel pools. There’s the main pool out front with candystriped sun loungers and attentive waiters, but I’ll let you in on a secret… the real gem is the pool hidden away in a secluded garden behind the main building. Seek it out, and you can thank me later. And after a period in the culinary doldrums, the Mount Nelson is cementing its reputation as one of the most exciting foodie destinations in the Cape Town. That began with the appointment of George Jardine as the hotel’s executive chef, and in the short months he’s been in the kitchen, he has quickly transformed the offering. Look to the hyper-seasonal menu of elevated cuisine at The Verandah, or book the Chef’s Table which offers a curated set menu amid the bustle of the hotel’s kitchen. And, of course, there’s The Red Room by Chef’s Warehouse where chefs Liam Tomlin and David Schneider deliver a delicious pan-Asian discovery menu in a sexy subterranean space. belmond.com
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Since La Mamounia welcomed her first guests in 1923, this elegant address has become a byword for discreet sophistication amidst the bustle of Morocco’s Marrakech. As with so many grand hotels of the early 20th century, La Mamounia was not built by a hotelier with a vision, but a transport company with a bottom line. In this case, it was the Moroccan Railway Company that imagined a luxurious bolthole in the city would attract a certain calibre of guest to its cabooses. The company wasn’t wrong, and through the decades La Mamounia has played host to a roll call of royalty and celebrities, from Winston Churchill – who used the hotel’s balconies to paint the city’s famous pastel sunsets – to Gianni Versace. Even Nelson Mandela wandered the halls of La Mamounia. From the start, the hotel has been a celebration of both Moroccan architectural traditions and Art Deco design, a thread carried through from the stately entrance to the 209 airy rooms, suites and riads. In 2020, this timeless hotel was in need of an update, and for more than three months, 300 artisans – directed by designer Patrick Jouin and architect Sanjit Manku – set about reinventing one of the world’s most iconic properties. Today the result is exceptional, from marble-clad bathrooms and plush furnishings to thoroughly contemporary comforts. This includes an unforgettable culinary offering. Sip on mint tea at La Salon de Thé by acclaimed chef Pierre Hermé, or indulge in elevated traditional dishes at Le Marocain. There are bars and wine cellars, nightclubs and Moroccan-inspired tents that offer a segue from the hotel to the gardens, for an afternoon at the swimming pavilion beneath the palm trees. With elegance, exclusivity and a sense of Moroccan savoir faire, it’s little wonder La Mamounia was named the Best Hotel in Africa at this year’s inaugural World’s 50 Best Hotels.
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Though the doors only opened in 1967, the Peponi Hotel feels as timeless as the lateen dhows that ply the waters out front, sailing the seas of Kenya’s Lamu archipelago as they have done for centuries. The Peponi Hotel is an intimate familyrun property – the Korschen family’s house that has evolved into a boutique bolthole for weary travellers. Of the Peponi’s 29 rooms, there’s hardly a bad choice, but book a superior room for the private outdoor terrace complete with swinging day bed. Indoors, expect a contemporary take on traditional Swahili design, from hand-carved furniture and whitewashed walls to Persian rugs and subtle splashes of colour. Step outside to the hotel gardens and you’ll find an oasis of tropical palms where hammocks swing from coconut trees next to a swimming pool set beneath a pair of stately baobabs. Below, the warm waves of the Indian Ocean lap the stone steps that lead to the golden sands of Shela Beach. This 14-kilometre strip of sand brings many visitors to Lamu, but it’s certainly not the only attraction. The cobbled alleys of Lamu’s Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the best preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa, are brimming with lived cultural history, while local captains offer dhow sailing trips to explore the archipelago.
mamounia.com
But be back in time for sundowners at Peponi’s recently revamped Jahazi Bar, one of the most famous watering holes in East Africa. Tapping into local architectural styles, and now expanded to offer rooftop seating, it’s the best place in Lamu for pre-dinner drinks – and you’ll want to stay for dinner. Ray Cournede, grandson of the hotel’s founder, has taken the reins as executive chef and combines his European experience with the daily catch from the local boats to create inspired East African cuisine.
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LOCAL VISION TO GLOBAL BRAND
South African-based Malawian artist Billie Zangewa is one of five contemporary artists commissioned to bring her vision to the Louis Vuitton 2023 Artycapucines Collection. Since its launch in 2019, the Capucines bag – named after Rue Neuve-des-Capucines, the Parisian street where Louis Vuitton opened his first store in 1854 – has provided a blank canvas for 29 contemporary artists to create an Artycapucines. Billie creates her landscapes and portraits using patchworks of raw silk, and one of her works, The Swimming Lesson, was reimagined using a combination of high-definition trompe l’oeil printing, embroidery and visible hand stitching (pictured above). All bags in the 2023 Artycapucines Collection are presented in specially designed boxes and are available in a limited edition of 200 pieces. eu.louisvuitton.com
WAVES OF LUXURY New watches and fine-jewellery boutique, L’ Atelier Paris, opened this month in Umhlanga, Durban, with a curated it-list that includes Breitling, Cartier, Longines and TAG Heuer, as well as jewellery by FRED and Lepage for the first time on our shores.
French jewellery maison FRED is celebrated for its iconic Force 10 collection, which was born out of a bracelet made from braided sailing cables in the ’70s. Now available in South Africa, the range also includes pendants, earrings, necklaces, rings and link bracelets, and makes perfect gifts for sport lovers, adventure seekers and those with joie de vivre. Visit L’ Atelier Paris, Shop 243 on the Platinum Mile, Oceans Mall, Umhlanga, or laterlierparis.co.za.
PHOTOGRAPH MARISKA VAN DEN BRINK
Owner and founder of L’ Atelier, Jean-Philippe Avenel, has been captivated by watches since his childhood. Having specialised in luxury retail at Cartier France and Cartier South Africa, he felt the time was right to introduce his French heritage to the lifestyle haven that’s rapidly developed along KZN’s North Coast – an area that reminds him of life in the South of France.
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THE SECONDARY LUXURY MARKET IS ON THE RISE, AND EXPERTS LIKE STRAUSS & CO’S KIM GOELLER ENSURE YOUR PRELOVED JEWELS ARE VALUED AS THEY SHOULD BE
ine jewellery and high-end timepieces have always been safe investments in tumultuous financial times. Bina Genovese, managing executive at leading auction house Strauss & Co, is well aware of the rise in popularity of the secondary luxury market from her perspective behind the auction block. "Trends and market research indicate a growing appetite for luxury assets as alternate investments, which includes high-value jewellery and precious metals,” Bina says. “On the secondary market, Hermès Birkin bags and watches from Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet have exhibited
HOW DID YOU COME TO WORK AT STRAUSS & CO’S JEWELLERY DEPARTMENT? As with so many things, my beginnings at Strauss started in an unexpected manner. I met Susie Goodman (Strauss & Co’s executive director) through a school fundraising auction, and our conceptualising started with a focus on jewellery. I learnt the trade and art of jewellery design through the trials and tribulations of running my own fine jewellery brand, Umbala. My inspiration comes from mid-century design and my learnings from global trends and leading designers. My respect for the industry comes from working with master craftsmen and knowledgeable gemologists.
WHICH PIECE OF JEWELLERY RECENTLY GOT YOUR HEART RACING? At our last auction, we sold an 18kt, vibrant green enamel snake bangle from the ’80s. It’s something beyond unique. The design was years ahead of its time. It’s a conversation starter; an item handmade by a true artisan.
TELL US ABOUT A PIECE OF JEWELLERY YOU’D LOVE TO OWN A yellow gold dress ring set with a Columbian
WORDS MATTHEW MCCLURE
vivid emerald-cut emerald and baguette-cut diamonds; it’s a modern twist on a ’20s look.
WHAT’S YOUR MOST MEMORABLE RECENT AUCTION MOMENT? An exhilarating sale memory (at Strauss & Co’s Transcending Boundaries: International Modern and Contemporary Art auction) was of a previously undiscovered little gem by master Impressionist Pierre-Auguste Renoir, which as you can imagine, attracted a huge amount of attention and finally sold for R4 575 000.
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stellar performances, occasionally surpassing more traditional asset classes returns on investment. Luxury jewellery seems to follow a similar trajectory.” Strauss & Co’s jewellery department is headed up by experts like Kim Goeller, whose extensive knowledge of and passion for beautiful jewels means she’s able to safely guide you as a potential buyer or seller. We chatted to Kim about her love for gems and how to manage your heart rate in the auction room. straussart.co.za
CAN YOU TELL US MORE ABOUT UPCOMING JEWELLERY AUCTIONS AT STRAUSS & CO? We’ll have a fantastic collection of watches soon. We’re doing a stand-alone watch sale with pieces from the ’70s and ’90s – some new, some worn. A platinum IWC Da Vinci chronograph limited edition watch really resonates with me. Despite being influenced by its good looks, this is a true collector’s piece, and inscribed on the back of the watch is 49/500 – meaning this is one of 500 ever manufactured. Another favourite is a gold-nugget Lepponia, Finnish-designed bracelet, with architectural, sculptural angles making up the links. This iconic brand is known the world-over, and what an honour it is to see this piece in our sale.
A SPECIAL STONE OR PIECE OF JEWELLERY WE SHOULD HAVE ON OUR RADAR? It’s without doubt a newly certified GIA round brilliant-cut diamond; 7.83cts, I colour and VVS2 clarity, excellent cut, polish and symmetry. Set proud as a solitaire, this is a piece of a lifetime.
WHAT’S YOUR ADVICE FOR THOSE WHO ARE NEW TO AUCTIONS? Don’t allow your perception of the process to intimidate you. If the concept of a live auction frightens you, start by familiarising yourself through our timed online auctions. When you feel you’ve gained enough confidence in the process, you can transition over to a live virtual auction – here you can bid from the comfort of your home by logging onto our website. Most importantly, manage your heart rate as it can rise exponentially from the excitement of winning the bid you’re after, or drop radically from the disappointment if you don’t!
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SPEAKING IN
There are many ways to bring colour to jewellery – a coloured gemstone or tinted enamel being the most obvious. But for a long time, leading luxury jewellery brands have also incorporated ceramic colour technology to create head-turning pieces.
COLOUR
Metal Concentrators (MetCon), a leading refinery and jewellery manufacturer, collaborated with Austrian-based Invicon Chemical Solutions to introduce an innovative colour design approach to the South African jewellery industry. Invicon’s colour design systems, HyCeram, LuxArt and Luxon, offer a range of ceramic and acrylate solutions to bring coloured jewellery to life. Their unique technology has taken the principles of composite material in the dental industry and applied it to jewellery and watch design. In an interesting parallel, both the dental and jewellery industries require material that is easy to harden, remains stable, and can be precisely machined and polished. In addition, the material must be resistant to mechanical stress, form a strong bond with the carrier material, must not discolour and be harmless to the health of the wearer. To launch this new and exclusive colour design technology, MetCon recently partnered with seven local jewellery designers to showcase their interpretation of colourful, wearable art at Jewellex Africa.
TO A ROSY START If you’re looking for a wine to gift, best you move fast to secure the new Terre Paisible Isabelle rosé, as there are only 300 cases of the maiden vintage available. A blend of 60 percent grenache noir and 40 percent mourvèdre, it’s a bold take on the classic Provençal style. Maturation in foudre (a large wooden vat which means less wine-to-wood exposure) translates into subtle aromas of rose petals, pomelo zest and stone fruit with delicate marzipan notes. terrepaisible.com
Jewellery designers Kirsten Goss, Janine Binneman and Christelle Viljoen of Bellagio Jewellers, each created pieces using the new colourful technology. Grant Crosse, MetCon managing director, said the company was thrilled to offer this innovative technology to its jewellery clients. “The world speaks in colour, and we believe that Africa has a lot to say,” notes Grant. metcon.co.za
FROM FRANCE TO SA If you’re a patriotic South African and love the Veuve Clicquot collectables, don’t miss this year’s Veuve Clicquot Icons Collection. The Yellow Label Clicquot Arrow boxes always feature the distance from various cities to Reims, France – the home of Veuve Clicquot – and this year they are customised with major SA cities. Available at select liquor retailers. veuveclicquot.com
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Vivre. Live with exuberance. www.terrepaisible.com
COVER STAR
French by birth and based in Cape Town, milliner Bettina Thomas’ Couture Hats (bettinathomas.com) are the epitome of style. From royal weddings and christenings in Monaco to prestigious horse races in the UK and Europe, and appearances at Cape Town Fashion Week, her creations have graced the world’s stage. Bettina has also collaborated with singer Hunter Blue and South African designers Jacque Lagrange, Stephen Van Eeden, Gavin Rajah, as well as with the YourLuxury Africa team. See Bettina’s masterpiece on p77. Read our full interview with this creative maven at yourluxury.africa.
IF THE
HAT FITS
In a first for YourLuxury Africa’s annual Watches & Jewels Special Edition, we’ve featured a bespoke creation by legendary Swiss watch brand, Tudor, on one of our five covers. The Tudor Prince Chronograph One harks back to the heady days of 1976, when the brand released its first automatic chronograph characterised by its thickerthan-normal case, known affectionately by collectors as the ‘Big Block’. The Tudor Prince Chronograph One pays homage to its predecessor by emulating its vintage aesthetic, but with a few remarkable updates. An 18kt yellow gold case is the first novel design element Tudor collectors would notice, but within this is the real jewel: a prototype column-wheel Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT59XX. This singular creation was auctioned and sold to a special buyer. tudorwatch.com
TESTING THEIR METTLE We first met Otto du Plessis and Charles Haupt of The Bronze Age Design, Architecture and Sculpture Studio back in 2010 at what was then the FNB Joburg Art Fair. Their finely worked metal art pieces captured our imagination, as they have many others since Otto and Charles first established the business 26 years ago, and since then the team has gone from strength to strength.
An intricate metal bonsai tree with its miniature leaves in bronze was simply breathtaking. A large wall mirror with spiny details inspired by a cholla cactus seemed to pulse with life. Otto and Trevor gave some insight into their working process. “We are normally approached by clients. Ideally, you want people to know what they want before you start. We want a proper brief; what the budget is and the timelines,” Otto says. Trevor enjoys the opportunity to challenge himself by taking on projects that push him outside of his comfort zone. “The nice thing about commission work is that it opens you up to projects that you wouldn’t normally consider.”
Based in Woodstock, Cape Town, you’ll find Bronze Age studio’s art all over South Africa, and further afield. You’ll notice their work at Salsify at The Roundhouse Restaurant in Cape Town’s Camps Bay, or head to Quoin Rock Wine Estate where a twisting metallic vine in the reception area is a distinctive Bronza Age piece of art. The team has also recently completed an ambitious project at Xigera Safari Lodge in Botswana.
While Otto and Trevor embrace a more traditional analogue approach to metalworking and sculpture, using clay mockups and sketches to bring a piece to life, they also make use of 3D rendering and printing to hammer out a final design for client approval, before execution in the studio. “We’ve had to grow with the technology,” Trevor says. “The game’s changed. 3D printing and modelling has really come up in a big way.” We mention the ever-present spectre of AI, and whether it will have an influence on the way that Otto, Trevor and their colleagues work in studio. “The tech isn’t quite there yet,” says Trevor. “It’ll get there, but where AI’s value is right now is to get ideas out quickly and to create the concept. As soon as you have that link to 3D, it will change the game.” For now, Otto, Trevor and the Bronze Age team continue to produce marvels of metalworking.
While chatting to Otto and resident sculpture studio artist, Trevor Potter, we were given a tour of the Bronze Age sculpture studio, a veritable Aladdin’s cave of treasures.
Editor’s note: Bronze Age’s Volker Kock created the beautifully patinated and textured metallic backdrops for our watches on pages 60 – 87. bronzeage.co.za
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WORDS MATTHEW MCCLURE, LEIGH HERRINGER, JACQUIE MYBURGH CHEMALY, INGRID WOOD IMAGES SUPPLIED/BETTINA THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALENA GELEN @ALENAGELEN
REPORT
LUXE
34764
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WIN
YOUR
n i W
YOU COULD TAKE HOME THIS EXQUISITE 9KT ROSE GOLD RING WITH A CUSHION-CUT MORGANITE GEMSTONE AT ITS HEART, SURROUNDED BY SMALL ROUND BRILLIANT DIAMONDS, VALUED AT
D
R37 500
ating back to the early 20th century, the precious morganite stone was initially discovered in Madagascar, and was named after the American financier and gem enthusiast J.P. Morgan. The ring, created by Déonne le Roux Jewellers, is a beautiful amalgamation of past and present, blending the classic allure of morganite with the contemporary elegance of rose gold and diamond accents. Established in 1979, Déonne le Roux Jewellers is a family run business that specialises in custom designs and offers full-spectrum in-house services of gemologists, watchmakers and goldsmiths.
HOW TO ENTER Follow @yourluxury_ africa on Instagram. Click the link in the bio and fill in your details to secure your entry.
CLOSING DATE 31 January 2024
deonneleroux.co.za
For a list of jewellers in your area, visit jewellery.org.za or email admin@jewellery.org.za
TERMS & CONDITIONS: The competition opens at 8am on 21 November 2023 and closes at 8am on 31 January 2024. The prize must be taken up (or rejected) as awarded and cannot be transferred to any other person, sold, or converted to cash. The competition is open to all residents of South Africa over 18 years of age, except employees of YourLuxury Africa, The Jewellery Council of South Africa or Déonne le Roux Jewellers. By entering, you are joining the YLA Lounge and will be receiving access to special offers, exclusive content and marketing material. POPI DISCLAIMER: We respect your right to privacy and therefore aim to ensure that we comply with the legal requirement of the POPI Act, which regulates the manner in which we collect, process, store, share and destroy any personal information you have provided to us.
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Bettina Thomas Couture Hats bettinathomas.com Blancpain Tanur Jewellers: V&A Waterfront, 021 418 5524, tanur.co.za; Elegance Jewellers, 011 784 0047, ejewels.co.za BMW bmw.co.za Breitling 087 822 2195, breitling.com, info@breitling.co.za Bronze Age bronzeage.co.za Bulgari Bulgari Boutique Sandton City, 011 883 1325; Picot & Moss, 011 669 0500, picotandmoss.co.za Cartier Cartier Boutique Sandton City, 011 666 2800; cartier.com Chanel Chanel Fragrance and Beauty Boutique, Sandton City, V&A Waterfront and Menlyn Park Charles Greig charlesgreig.co.za, 011 325 4477, 021 418 4515 Chopard Architects of Time, 011 669 0790; Boutique Haute Horlogerie (BHH), bhhboutique.co.za Chopard (fragrance) Select Truworths and Foschini stores, Bash.com/Foschini-for-beauty, truworths.co.za Christoff Fine Jewellery 021 483 1765, christoffjewelers.com Déonne le Roux Jewellers 012 368 9140, deonneleroux.co.za
ALL PRICES CORRECT AT TIME OF GOING TO PRINT.
Dior Architects of Time, 011 669 0790; BHH, bhhboutique.co.za
Gemfields gemfields.com/collaborations Graff graff.com, Delaire Graff Estate, delaire.co.za H. Moser & Cie Architects of Time, 011 669 0790; BHH, bhhboutique.co.za Hermès Picot & Moss, 011 669 0500, picotandmoss.co.za; BHH, bhhboutique.co.za Honor Cognac honorcognac.com Hublot Murdocks: V&A Waterfront, 021 419 0302 IWC Elegance Jewellers: Sandton, 011 784 0012, Melrose Arch, 011 684 1380; Charles Greig: V&A Waterfront, 021 418 4515; Ntinga Gold & Diamonds: O.R Tambo International Airport Duty Free, 011 390 1500
Montblanc Sandton Boutique, 011 666 2804; montblanc.com Moraglione Shemer Jewellers, shemer.co.za Murdocks V&A Waterfront, 021 419 0302 Omega omegawatches.com Panerai Panerai Boutique Sandton City, 011 784 0012 Patek Philippe by GMT 011 784 2595; patekphilippe@gmtafrica.com Pomellato Picot & Moss, 011 669 0500; BHH, bhhboutique.co.za Rado rado.com Rolex rolex.com
Jacques Lagrange 082 268 1102; jacqueslagrangecouture@gmail.com
Shemer Jewellers Bedford Centre, Bedfordview, 011 622 4735; shemer.co.za
Jaeger-LeCoultre Charles Greig: V&A Waterfront, 021 418 4515; Elegance Jewellers: Sandton, 011 784 0047, Melrose Arch, 011 684 1380; jaeger-lecoultre.com
Stephen van Eeden stephenvaneeden.co.za
Jewellery Council of South Africa jewellery.org.za, admin@jewellery.org.za Kat van Duinen katvanduinen.com L’Atelier Paris 031 001 7076; latelierparis.co.za, contact@latelierparis.co.za Loewe Picot & Moss Eyewear, 011 669 0796, picotandmoss.co.za
Strauss & Co 011 728 8246, 021 683 6560, straussart.co.za TAG Heuer TAG Heuer Boutiques: Johannesburg, 011 784 7422, Cape Town, 021 421 8539, Durban 031 566 4452; Picot & Moss, 011 669 0500, picotandmoss.co.za Terre Paisible terrepaisible.com Tudor tudorwatch.com
Longines longines.com
Ulysse Nardin Architects of Time, 011 669 0790; BHH, bhhboutique.co.za
Messika Architects of Time, 011 669 0790; BHH, bhhboutique.co.za
Zenith Picot & Moss, 011 669 0500, picotandmoss.co.za
Dolce&Gabbana Dolce&Gabbana Sandton City, 011 326 7808
STOCKISTS
Baume et Mercier Murdocks: V&A Waterfront, 021 419 0302; The Diamond Works: O.R Tambo International Airport Duty Free, 011 390 3177
HyCeram rings by MetCon
Fabergé Elegance Jewellers, elegancejewellers.com Fope 021 418 4515, 011 325 4477, charlesgreig.co.za Frédérique Constant Picot & Moss, 011 669 0500, picotandmoss.co.za Gavin Rajah gavinrajah.com
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o t e d o n A NATURE
THE GUERLAIN AQUA ALLEGORIA FRAGRANCE COLLECTION IS A VIBRANT EXAMPLE OF SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY WORDS INGRID WOOD
Aqua Allegoria epitomises this approach, from the vision to the ingredients. Created in 1999 by Jean-Paul Guerlain, the Aqua Allegoria debut collection of Mandarine Basilic, Rosa Rossa and Nerolia Vetive celebrated gardens. The trio became iconic and now Guerlain perfumers have reinterpreted the original scents in Aqua Allegoria Forte. The new fragrances, crafted by Guerlain master perfumer Thierry Wasser, are of more than 90 percent natural origin, use ethically sourced ingredients, and are formulated exclusively with organic beetroot alcohol. The intensely woody Aqua Allegoria Forte collection is described as “an olfactory echo of the power of our trees and forests – the lungs of the Earth”. Forte Bosca Vanilla was inspired by the idea of driftwood washed up on shore – think salty notes enveloped by vanilla that’s sourced from freshly harvested Madagascan pods, which macerate in organic alcohol for several weeks.
A key ingredient in the rosy wood Forte Rosa Palissandro is Turkish rose absolute, extracted from the petals of the Damascena rose on the Anatolian Plateau in Turkey, where the flowers are gathered in the early mornings when the scents are at their richest. Made of 15 percent recycled glass, the refillable bottles are adorned with honeycombs to honour the bee – a focus of artistry at Guerlain since 1853, reflecting the brand’s commitment to sustainability. Guerlain Aqua Allegoria is available in ARC stores, arcstore.co.za
‘“You can’t have existed for almost 200 years without CREATING SUSTAINABLE RELATIONSHIPS or PRACTICES,” Thierry Wasser, Guerlain master perfumer’ 104 yourluxury.africa
IMAGES SUPPLIED
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ature has always inspired the Guerlain brand. Through In the Name of Beauty, a programme that was launched by Guerlain in 2007, the preservation of the brand’s heritage has been safely guarded. Since 2021, the cosmetic brand has been a member of the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT), working with the various players in a quest for continuous improvement, which will result in a Sourcing with Respect certification by 2026.
Forte Oud Yuzu is an intoxicating woody citrus scent designed to capture the moment when the sun cuts through the foliage at twilight. The heady oud is sourced from a tree found in south east Asian forests which, when infected by a fungus, secretes a powerful fragrant resin. The infected trees grow for 25 years before the wood chips are harvested and steam distilled. The oud is tempered by Japanese yuzu, a tangy citrus fruit.