13 minute read
GREEN WITH ENVY
from Your West End
BRING A TOUCH OF GREEN TO YOUR WARDROBE THIS SPRING WHATEVER YOUR BUDGET. ACCESSORISE FOR EVERY OCCASION, WITH A FINE FINISH FROM PIAGET, TO TRAVEL TIME FROM RAYMOND WEIL.
The first time a Laureato has featured a green ceramic case and bracelet, this new launch is the latest collaboration between the Swiss Maison and British marque, two companies that have designed products that have stood the test of time.
While some of the materials used for these new co-branded watches may be ultra-modern, the essence of the inaugural Laureato has been respected. Offered in a choice of two case sizes (42mm and 38mm), each reference is a limited edition and thereby destined to remain a rare sight.
Sleek, contemporary and notably elegant, the design of the Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition encompasses some elements inspired by Aston Martin cars. Powerful engines, sleek contours and light weight construction are virtues synonymous with the British firm’s products. It is this latter trait which encouraged Girard-Perregaux.
Some of the finest luxury products are crafted with time-served hands. These scarce human skills, often amassed over many years, imbue an item with a distinctive character and an enduring quality. Both Aston Martin and Girard-Perregaux operate within this rarefied world of excellence, constructing rare objects that confer lasting appeal. In 2021, these two prestigious marques entered into a multi-year collaboration agreement and have since created a number of limited-edition, co-branded products.
Equipped with skeletonised ‘baton’ type hour and minute hands, both light and functional, the watch dial is presented in a cross-hatch design, a diamond-like pattern found on the ‘AM’ logo (1921-1926) as well as the quilted seats found in some of the car marque’s high-performance vehicles.
The new Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition respects the brands timeless elements but employs ultra-modern ceramic for the bracelet and case. This lightweight material comprises zirconium oxide and metallic oxides (the latter imbues the material with its distinctive green hue). The zirconium oxide selected by Girard-Perregaux is composed of an extremely fine powder, made of micro-beads, each measuring mere fractions of a micron in diameter (1 micron (μ) = 0.001mm). By using this specific grade of micro-bead, the structure of the bracelet and case exhibit a notably homogenous appearance.
This latter attribute allows the craftspeople at Girard-Perregaux to finish the ceramic components with a combination of polished and satin finished surfaces, an endearing characteristic common to all Laureato models.
The green ceramic components are particularly hard, up to seven times harder than steel, delivering incredible scratch resistance, a quality that will ensure the watch retains its showroom-fresh appearance for years to come.
Furthermore, ceramic is unaffected by changes in ambient temperature, it’s light, hypoallergenic and proves remarkably smooth, all factors that deliver extraordinary wearer comfort.
Both versions of the Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition are housed in a slender case. The 42mm model is fitted with the Calibre GP01800, while the 38mm version is equipped with the Calibre GP03300. Both in-house movements are self-winding and can be admired though a see- through case-back, personalised with the Aston Martin logo.
Consistent with the Maison’s reputation for making wonderful expressions of Haute Horlogerie, each movement is beautifully appointed. Circular graining features on the main plate, while other components are endowed with bevelling, mirror-polishing, satin finish, snailing, sunray finish and various engravings. The bridges are decorated with straight Côtes de Genève and the oscillating weight is embellished with circular Côtes de Genève. Lastly, the movements have a power reserve of at least 46 hours (38mm) and 54 hours (42mm).
By 1943,
Willy Breitling had built a name for himself as a maker of aircraft instrumentation and tool watches that met the functional needs of wartime. But the third-generation Breitling founder also dreamt of a time after the war, when utility would give way to unbridled optimism. With that future in mind, he designed a series of elegant chronographs and assigned them the best materials, the best finishings and the best calibers. He called his new line the Premier.
Reintroduced by Breitling in 2021, the Premier Heritage chronograph collection revived Willy’s dream of seeing the functional chronograph made undeniably elegant and infinitely wearable - in his words, “the unmistakable stamp of impeccable taste.” Today, the Swiss watchmaker adds six new references to the Premier assortment, all of them powered by the self-winding Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01.
“We are committed to preserving Willy Breitling’s bold vision of combining the precision of a professional tool watch with the sophistication of a modern dress watch,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern. “The Premier embodied the hopeful energy that emerged in the postwar era, and we are proud to continue that tradition with a modern-retro version for our times.”
Breitling’s specialty has always been the chronograph, and each of the brand’s three founding fathers had a role in shaping it. From the moment he started his business in 1884, Leon Breitling put his expertise into perfecting the pocket-watch timekeeper. His son Gaston introduced the first wrist-worn models that included an independent pusher at 2 o’clock. And his grandson Willy added the second pusher at 4 o’clock - establishing the form of the modern chronograph that is used across all of watchmaking today. Willy would then go on to take the family vision one step further, giving the chronograph style as well as function.
The new Premier B01 Chronograph 42 assortment also lives up to Willy Breitling’s uncompromising technical standards. The six models are powered by the self-winding Breitling Caliber 01, a manufacture movement designed for maximum precision, reliability, and functionality. First released in 2009, it is one of the most highly regarded chronograph movements in the industry. As with all of Breitling’s mechanical calibers, each one has achieved the rigorous COSC certification for accuracy within -4 and +6 seconds per day.
Just as grueling is Breitling’s own in-house 16-year-aging equivalent that includes shock testing (approx. 60,000 shocks at 500 G), crown testing (more than 100,000 crown winds), winding of the oscillating weight (3,456,000 weight turns) and chronograph pusher testing (approx. 5,840 start-stop-reset engagements).
The latest iteration of the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 found in the new Premier chronograph was redesigned in 2022 and features a trimmer profile and more compact oscillating weight that can be admired through the transparent sapphirecrystal caseback. The movement comes with a five-year warranty and provides an approximate 70-hour power reserve. In keeping with Willy’s desire to marry usability with elegance, the Premier now comes with a 100 m (10 bar) water resistance.
To create the design of the new Premier, Breitling preserved distinctive vintage-Premier design details, including the smooth fixed bezel, twin-register dial, streamlined rectangular pushers, and applied Arabic numerals. At 42 mm, the case diameter is slightly larger than the 40 mm found on the existing B09 (manual-wind) models. The tone-on-tone subdials with chronograph minutes at 3 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock lend a polished style, while new dial shades in salmon, blue, green, black, and cream add a contemporary twist to the stainless-steel models. A further variation in 18K red gold features a classic cream dial. The watches come on a choice of classic alligator leather strap or sleek 7-row metal bracelet. The launch of the new Premier B01 Chronograph 42 coincides with the publication of Premier Story, part three of the Watch Stories series that chronicles some of the world’s most celebrated timepieces.
Author Fred Mandelbaum, Breitling’s official brand historian and the world’s foremost Premier collector, guides readers through Willy Breitling’s ultimately successful (but often tumultuous) quest to take the humble chronograph out of the aircraft cockpit and onto the wrists of the world’s style-setters — a journey that began 80 years ago.
“As Breitling’s historian, I’ve been living the wildest dreams of any passionate collector,” says author Fred Mandelbaum. “For this book, I was granted unprecedented access to the Breitling company archives and, through Gregory Breitling, son of founding-father Willy Breitling, was privileged to gain access to the family collection of watches, documents, photographs, and a wealth of personal memories.” spinnaker-watches.com
Illustrated in exquisite photography, including rarely-beforeseen vintage watches, Premier Story not only provides an account of the Premier’s history, but also offers invaluable resources for collectors on how to authenticate vintage models, along with how to date pieces by hands- shape, logo, and serial number. A chapter on calibers reveals the evolution of the Premier movements from 1943 to 2023, with content connected by QR code to videos of the intricate mechanisms in action. Premier Story is a fascinating - and exceptionally practical - deep dive into one of history’s great watches.
The Boettger Automatic Limited Edition is finally back, with a specially curated production run of three unique and stunning colours reinvigorating this innovative line of performance dive watches. A unique tribute to a remarkable story of ingenuity, bravery and determination. Bernd Boettger (or Böttger) grew up in East Germany during the Cold War and is credited as the inventor of the Aqua Scooter.
Seeking to escape and reach freedom in the West, Boettger believed a seaborne escape would be his best chance of making it past an increasingly fortified border around East Germany. Using only what was available, Boettger fashioned a tiny one and a half horsepower gasoline engine from a bicycle with a snorkel delivering air to the machine. The exhaust ran into a container, which helped act as a float. He made a snorkel for himself - and incredibly using this untested, homemade contraption - set off on the cold waters of the Baltic on 8th September 1968.
Boettger succeeded, making it to Denmark on a journey that had taken him 15.5 miles. There was no test run. This prototype had to succeed, and it did. Driven by this desire and drive, Boettger challenged both his mind and body along with a solitary chance to make this escape happen. Boettger patented his design of the Aqua Scooter, which subsequently also provides inspiration for this limited-edition timepiece that echoes the creativity of its namesake.
This re-thinking of the traditional dive watch - from bezel to bracelet - has resulted in the most intriguing timepiece of the Spinnaker lineup. The lugless case is designed and constructed to flow seamlessly to the bracelet. Built sturdily, it features a scratch resistant sapphire lens topping the case. The bezel is slim but carved carefully to offer a satisfactory grip for the user. Powering the timepiece is the reputable 24 Jewel, 28,800 Bph Miyota 9015 self-winding automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve that is dependable, reliable, and precise. Constructed for utility and ergonomics, the case offers 300m of water resistance with a surprisingly slim profile for an always comfortable wear.
Available in three colours, each watch is only produced to a limited edition run of 630 or less uniquely numbered pieces and is available for purchase on 7th April. Priced at £710.00.
The TYPE 8, the purest expression of design from Ressence, expands its colour palette with the launch of a Sage Green dial.
This soft, elegant, and highly versatile green instils a sense of optimism and serenity to the lightweight all-titanium timepiece. This new colour addition further refines the sixth and latest watch type of the Ressence family collection and perfectly complements the existing TYPE 8 Cobalt Blue.
With its deceptively simple aesthetic, the TYPE 8 is designed for ergonomic comfort. Focusing on the most essential indications being the hours and the minutes, price-wise, it forms the entry level range of the brand.
Benoît Mintiens, Founder of Ressence, said: “The TYPE 8 is the purest, most essential of all Ressence experiences. You cannot possibly subtract anything more from it. To maximise legibility, its dial has been reduced to its most viable minimum.”
Asked about his perspective on colour, Benoît Mintiens added: “Colour is a part of our universal human language that reaches beyond time and culture. Colour triggers our emotions and affects how we experience the world around us. Awakening senses is key to Ressence, and colour certainly plays a part in this endeavour.”
Graphically simplified to the essence, the watch indicates only the hours and minutes, and with no text or numbers, the domed Sage Green dial has been reduced to its essence. Simple white baton markers present the time with perfect clarity from any angle thanks to the revolutionary Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) display, whereby the dial itself comprises rotating discs set into the same plane. ressencewatches.com
The hands, the hour and minute scales are picked out in SuperLuminova® for low-light legibility. As with all Ressence watches, the dial of the Type 8 eschews traditional notions of centrally- mounted hands. Instead, the main dial, a domed piece of titanium, rotates to indicate the minutes. Set within it on the same plane, a smaller dial rotates to mark the hours. Thus the entire dial is ever- changing, but still presents an intuitive at-aglance display, legible from any angle.
The lightest of all Ressence watches, strap included, the watch weighs just a mere 42 grams. Crafted from a feather-light grade five Titanium, the 42.9 mm sleek case fits so comfortably on the wrist, inducing a long-lasting love affair.
In keeping with Ressence’s previous designs and the brand’s founding principle of ergonomic utility, the TYPE 8 removed the traditional crown on either sides of the case that marks the watch out as left- or right-handed. This unique ambidextrous design makes for a comfortable experience on all wrists.
The TYPE 8 will be available in both finishes worldwide from early May via Ressence’s official retailers network.
The iconic Piaget Polo reaches unprecedented heights in 2023 with the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin powered by the 1255P caliber.
This stunning new model showcases one of watchmaking’s most emblematic complications, evocatively complemented by a moonphase display.
Adored and worn by influential figures including Ursula Andress, Roger Moore, Andy Warhol and Bjorn Borg, this stand-out-from-the-crowd unisex icon in gold or steel radiates a singular character and an unmistakable aura of distinction that resonates with the Piaget spirit of shared joy, sophistication and extravaganza.
Yves Piaget’s numerous travels helped him sense the momentum of the American market and its appetite for luxury sports watches. Piaget was thus primed to overturn industry conventions by offering a sporty and relaxed approach to round- the-clock watchmaking elegance that took the U.S. by storm.
Now, for the first time, the Piaget Polo welcomes a mechanical perpetual calendar - an emblematic complication in which Piaget has developed considerable expertise already deployed in some of its other watch lines.
Designed to advance the day, date, and year until the year 2100 - months, moon phases and leap- year cycle - perpetual calendar watches naturally appeal to a demanding and discerning audience, people in the know who appreciate the sum of haute horlogerie savoir faire embodied in such models.
Piaget has built its reputation first in the development and manufacturing of ultra-thin components and then in the development of ultra-thin movements. Combining watchmaking prowess, high- precision design and daring creativity, the in-house 12P movement launched in 1960 was the thinnest in the world because it drew on the idea of using a micro-rotor to ensure its ultra-thinness. Fifty years later, this caliber in turn gave rise to the new generation of 1200P caliber.
For Piaget’s new 1255P ultra-thin 4 mm caliber, the Manufacture drew on the ultra-thin 1200P caliber with its extremely slimness and proven reliability, while adding an additional Perpetual Calendar with moon-phase mechanism. At just 8.65 mm thick overall, the new 42mm Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin brings the universe to the wrist while retaining the joyful highlife vibe flaunted by this fabulously festive and colourful collection.
Featuring a dark emerald-green dial with a gadroon pattern and three subdials for the date, month (along with leap-year indication) and weekday at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock, along with the moonphase indication at 6 o’clock, the timepiece is true to Piaget tradition, with the subdials incorporating several finishes, adding visual richness as the light plays across them, along with SuperLuminova® indexes.
While retaining the gadroons that have been part of the Piaget Polo signature since 1979 on both the case, the aesthetic link between the newgen Piaget Polo and its predecessors is reinforced by the reappearance of the gadroons on the bracelet.
Other enhancements relate to a brand-new interchangeable SingleTouch system for the bracelet, as the model comes with a comfortable rubber strap alternative - echoing the gadroon pattern on the dial - that easily yet securely diversifies the wearability options.
Whatever the place, whatever the moment, while remaining true to its effortless distinction, Piaget Polo is an invitation to liberate one’s versatility and self-expression, igniting a unique ability to fit in yet stand out.
The Geneva-based watchmaker Raymond Weil has unveiled its latest timepiece, the freelancer Worldtimer. Capable of displaying the prevailing hour in 24 time zones at the same time, this new watch is ideal for wearers who juggle life in different regions of the world.
The new freelancer GMT Worldtimer is 40.5mm in diameter and has a thickness of 9.7mm, a modest figure considering the complexity housed within. Designed for intrepid explorers, business travellers and individuals who skilfully balance their life in different parts of the world, this model allows the wearer to view 24 time zones simultaneously.
Despite its complexity, the model remains slim, courtesy of a new self-winding movement, the Calibre RW3230 - a Swiss automatic movement with a power reserve of 50 hours. Equipped with a rotating track, marked with one prominent city for each time zone, the city disc sits adjacent a 24-hour scale, indicating the relevant hour in the location shown and whether it is day/night.
Barrel-shaped hour and minute hands indicate the ‘local time’, while to display the local time for the current location, the wearer simply rotates the crown at 4 o’clock, positioning the name of the local city adjacent to the prevailing hour. In addition to displaying the local time for the current location, the city disc simultaneously shows the relevant hour for each of the remaining 23 time zones.
A black GMT hand, featuring a prominent triangular red and white tip, indicates the prevailing hour at home, while a highly legible lollipop hand completes the set of hands.
Available in two versions, one with a black dial and the other with a green dial, the black dial is paired with a stainless steel case coated with black DLC, a shade that exhibits an understated character while appearing eminently sophisticated. In contrast, the green dial option features a stainless steel case, but in this instance it is matched with a bronze bezel and two bronze crowns. raymond-weil.com
Bronze is an interesting alloy that acquires an attractive patina with time. This model proves a stylish exemplar of military chic with its khaki tones and bronze accents, making it the perfect timepiece for adventurous types.
While the two watches exhibit different characters, they both incorporate gradient dial tones. The progression from dark to light not only heightens the visual allure of each dial option, but also serves as a means of indicating the transition from day to night. In terms of wearing the watch at night, readability is assured. The hands and indexes are treated with Super-LumiNova®, emitting either a blue or green glow depending on their functional role. In isolation, these refinements may seem subtle, but when viewed collectively they enrich the ownership experience.
In keeping with Raymond Weil's esteemed reputation for quality, the lower part of the bridges is adorned with perlage, the barrel cover is snailed and the top part of the bridges and oscillating mass are embellished with Côtes de Genève motif. Purists will be pleased to learn that the movement can be admired at close quarters, courtesy of the model’s exhibition case back.
Each timepiece comes supplied on a colour-coordinated calf leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching and a folding clasp, featuring a double push-security system.