CRYSTAL
PEOPLE WHO CHANGED THE NAIL INDUSTRY
NO. 8 (4/2013)
Pleasure
The heART of beauty, spa & Wellness Confirm your attendance to the industry showcase of the season. Register for your free ticket at www.professionalbeauty.ie and quote lucky ticket number YN1 for a chance to be a winner at the show.
Join the Conversation: @PRo_BeAuTY PRofessioNAlBeAuTYuK PRoBeAuTY PRoBeAuTY
scAN To geT YouR fRee TicKeT
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Executive Editor KAROLINA BOCZEK karolina@yournailsmag.com Assistant Editor DOMINIKA MARUCHA office@yournailsmag.com admin@yournailsmag.com Copy Editor MICHELLE HOURIHAN michelle@yournailsmag.com Feature Writer NIAMH O’REILLY niamh@beautycouture.ie IZABELA STELMASZYK iza@imsnails.pl Art Editor DONAL O’KEEFFE info@donalokeeffe.ie Printer GLOBPRINT Contributors Cover by Louisa Flanagan Zsuzanna Varga Louise McKee Sinead Ellison-Mydat Liz Richards Denise Ariotti Kelly Marie Daly Vicki Peters Erin Adeyemo Atiya La Quay Ciara Pisa Dorota Palicka Caroline Carrick Julija Celovalnikova Ela Loszczyk Liz McKeon Lidia Wrobel Leah Light Editorial Advertising Office Unit 6, 3rd Floor Georges Quay House, Georges Quay, Limerick, Ireland. Tel. +353 (0)86 8884936 General Enquiries info@yournailsmag.com http://yournailsmag.com
FROM THE
EDITOR Summer is gone and we are not sure if the days of 30 degrees at 6 o’clock in the evening will ever come back… that was mad. As much we complained about not having air conditioning in our workplaces we loved it. However, I am looking forward to this autumn. There is so much going on, starting with the Olympia Beauty show in London, Professional Beauty in Dublin, Halloween, Christmas, my birthday : ) - I don’t know if I should be happy about approaching thirty (magic scary number), but as they say “with age comes wisdom”. I feel like with age come wrinkles and more stress! The best thing is that you really stop counting your own age when you start counting your children’s age. Looking at my daughter who is 2 and a half I can’t wonder enough about her ability to learn and adapt to our times and new technology. She comes over to my nail table every day and gets her nails done after she has eaten all the nail varnish (Zoya with no chemicals) I had put on the day before. She picks the colours and even shows me exactly what nail art she wants!
Vote for your favourite product and win cash prizes, nail products, beauty products and more! Find more info on our Facebook page and on our website!
GET ELECTRONIC VERSION OF YOUR NAILS MAGAZINE! You can get your favourite mag on your computer. What are you waiting for! The publisher, authors and contributors reserve their rights with regards to copyright of their work. No part of this work covered by copyright may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means without written consent of the publisher. The publisher, contributors, editors and related parties are not responsible in any way for the actions or result taken by any person, organization or any party on the basis of reading information, stories or contributions in this publication, website or related product.
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CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2013 COVER LOOK Photograph by Edith Zurawski Phography, Shoes by cherrybum.com, Model Karolina Boczek, Toe nails by Louisa Flanagan.
FROM THE EXPERTS 26 IN THE SPOTLIGHT by Liz McKee 61 ASK YOUR NAIL EXPERT Q & A 64 LIVE YOUR DREAM by Ela Loszczyk 42 LETS TALK CUCCIO by Liz Richards
NAIL COMPETITION 44 RESULTS Of The Nail Competition 45 NAIL COMPETITION Under The Mistletoe
ABOUT 48 34 56 40 54 50
FAMOUS NAIL STYLIST Caroline Carrick SALON REVIEW Flawless Spa, Belfast ALL ABOUT E-FILE by Vicky Peters MY LIFE AS A HAND MODEL by Ciara Pisa NAIL GAGA by Erin Adayemo We Miss You Every Day by Lidia Wrobel
0 3 STEAL HER STYLE, RIHANNA
TRENDING 13 51 36 20 38 55 18
TOP 5 BEST SELLING PRODUCTS Acrylic Paints WHAT’S HOT WHAT’S NOT Around The World COVER STORY Report From The Photoshoot BY NIAMH O’REILLY Steal Her Style, Rihanna BY NIAMH O’REILLY Hats and Scarves FASHION Inspired With Nail Art SMOKE & MIRRORS from Bio Sculpture
NEWS 12 WHAT... 14 WHERE... 16 WHEN...
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18 FAMOUS NAIL STYLIST
COVER STORY 27 PEOPLE WHO CHANGED THE NAIL INDUSTRY by Karolina Boczek
PRODUCTS 63 NEW PRODUCTS 58 HALLOWEEN 66 BREAST CANCER
6NCBERREPARSOT DUCTS 6 CA
STEP BY STEPS 52 10 57 62 33 67 37 39 35
Martin Luther King by Denise Ariotti Autumn Jigsaw by Kelly Marie Daly Magic Calla by Dorota Palicka Sleeping Beauty by Dorota Palicka Rainbow Dash by Julija Celovalnikova Innocence by Zsuzanna Varga Crystal Pleasure by Louisa Flanagan Metallic Glamour by Caroline Carrick Cuccio Veneer by Louise McKee
REPORT 43 VEGAS BABY report from Cosmoprof 2013
7OPLE 2 PE
WHO CHANGED THE NAIL INDUSTRY
BEAUTY & HEALTH 60 BY NIAMH O’REILLY Autumn Winter Beauty
TECHNIQUE 24 BY IZA STELMASZYK The proper way to file & polish nails 46 BY IZA STELMASZYK Lifting Product from the nail plate 32 BACK TO BASICS Glossary
GALLERIES 49 YN GALLERY
OTHER 70 DIRECTORY 68 CLASSIFIED
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6 0 A
UTUMN WINTER BEAUTY
Contact French Cosmetics on 046 9481091 emailCosmetics info@frenchcosmetics.ie Contact or French on 046 9481091 for more information. or email info@frenchcosmetics.ie
for more information.
AUTUMN JIGSAW Kelly Marie Daly Charleville, Cork
1. Prep the nail by pushing back the cuticles.
5.
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Apply clear gel to the extension. Cure for 2 mins. File the nails to the correct shape and buff.
2. Glue the ready made tip in the desired shape firmly.
6. Using white striper, draw lines where the colours join.
3.
4.
Apply thin coat of clear Cure for 2 mins. gel as a base. Cure for 2 mins. Then add few colours: blue, green, red and apply gold foil.
7. Add black lines for better effect.
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WHAT... 1 Step Gel polish from CHROMA Gel For 2 years Chroma Gel has been working in secret on producing a gel polish that the nail techs have been screaming for years, a gel polish that has no fuss, just apply and cure. The system needs no training at all just apply the polish to the natural nail and cure, two coats is always better than one.
‘We Have An App For That!’ Hand & Nail Harmony™ & GELISH™ are excited to introduce the new iPhone/ iPad app for the latest Nail Style®.
“Summer inspired” nail art competition winner sponsored by Bio Sculpture Winning design by Charlene Balmer of New York Nails & Beauty in Ballymena. Main Bio Sculpture colours used are 130 Her Highness and 120 Turquoise Teacup. It was a ‘summer inspired’ nail art competition for all Bio Sculpture Ireland clients. Had lots of wonderful entries and so they have decided to be running another one later in the year. Look out for it!
Nail Style® is a quarterly magazine that will be published by Harmony to share all the excitement of the happenings in the GELISH world. It will include such things as product introductions, step by step, event happenings around the globe and much more.
Power Nails @ L’Oreal Trophy Awards 2013 by Gelish Creative Academy, exclusive Irish distributors for Hand & Nail Harmony & Gelish Soak Off Gel Polish were asked along to the L’Oreal Colour Trophy Awards 2013 on Monday 15th July in Dublin to ‘Gelish’ 19 of Ireland’s top models.
Artisan Ireland – new website launched In July Artisan Ireland has launched new website. Now, you can find information about the company, services offered and courses that are running in an easy scroll down mode. It’s very impressive. http://artisaninternational.ie
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Michael Doyle – senior hair stylist with Peter Mark explained –‘The Peter Mark show is called Mani – which translate into Reflection in Japanease. It’s all about transformation and the power nails, hair, make up and clothes have to transform the woman’. Gelish nail team created long, pointed & stiletto nails with extremely decadent nail art. Gelish Team with Michael Doyle
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®
ection Mistero Milano SPAZIO Coll paints, ideal Acrylic paints SPAZIO, the highest quality acrylic consistency of pigment, perfectly suit for one-stroke painting, freehand, outlines and different nail-art. www.nailfashion.ie
Size:
11ml
Pigment:
Rich
Package:
Bottle with brush
Price:
€3.75 each
TOP 5 BEST
SELLING
OUMAXI
Acr ylic
Most popular acrylic paints on the market. Rich in pigment with nice creamy consistency. Perfect for one stroke nail art. Easy to rich from the tube. Available in a box of 12 colours.
PAINTS
Nail and Beauty System www.nailandbeauty.ie Tel: 01 840 9124
MOYRA
Size:
12ml
Pigment:
Rich
Package:
Tube
Price:
12pcs box €12 + VAT
Moyra`s acrylic paint series has 42 beautiful colours. They are water paint which can be thinned by water, and which can mix with each other. They have perfect covering ability and they dry fast. www.moyrashop.ie Size:
17ml
Pigment:
Rich
Package:
Tube
Price:
€3.50 each
CRYSTAL NAILS Little tubes of control easy acrylic paints available in many colours. Perfect for hand free and one move nail art. www.crystalnailsireland.com Size:
5ml
Pigment:
Rich
Package:
Tube
Price:
€3.00 each
NAIL GAGA
12 paints available in the set, but Nail Gaga also offers 3 different colour sets. www.nailgaga.co.uk Size:
5ml
Pigment:
Rich
Package:
Jar
Price:
12 paints £15
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WHERE... Your Nails Magazine in Vegas!
Joanna’s Nail Academy Re-opened! For 2 years Chroma Gel has been working in secret on producing a gel polish that the nail techs have been screaming for years, a gel polish that has no fuss, just apply and cure. The system needs no training at all just apply the polish to the natural nail and cure, two coats is always better than one.
The Nail Superstore’s Fall Catalog is Now Available!
Karolina Boczek with Habib and Greg from Young Nails. Executive Editor, Karolina Boczek travelled all the way to Vegas to meet the most iconic people in the nail industry, people who innovated products that all nail techs can’t live without. Check out the article page …..
Trinity Beauty by Tom Holcomb – conference of Gurus
The cool fall season is coming, which means cool savings and The Nail Superstore has the best fall deals, all featured in the new catalog. Explore NailSuperstore.com and discover all the amazing features.
Vote for Your Favourite Products – Where? yournailsmag.com You know better than anyone else which products deserve to win! So cast your vote in our Readers’ Choice Awards 2013.
Get your nails glammed up for the red carpet! We are exhibiting at the Professional Beauty Show in Dublin and we have brilliant news! We are going to have a Your Nails Mani Cam! So get your nails all glammed up for the show and come to our stand to take the picture! All pictures will be published on our website and some in the magazine. Find us at the stand A51. Trinity Beauty Guru Training was held on July 19th to 23rd in Malaysia. 30 nail techs from Spain, Germany, Ukraine, Japan, Singapore, Thailand, Taiwan, Indonesia and of course Malaysia gathered to train with the best of the 1212 Gurus: Viktoriia Klopotova, Susumu Uehara, Pisut Masanoung, Berry Shum, Competition Guru Louis Lim and guru director Erin Eng. A special thanks to Jasmine Ng, Joey Chen and Erin Eng from Trinity Nail Team Training Center for organizing this amazing event.
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Picture source: www.missladyfinger.com
WHEN... Events Coming Up www.beautiesfactory.co.uk SAVE MONEY... LOOK GORGEOUS
If you are going to any of these events let us know! Become our reporter. Email us on info@yournailsmag.com
29th Sept - 6th Oct 2013 Cruise with the Nail Stars 6th – 7th October 2013 Professional Beauty At the RDS, Dublin.
13th – 14th October 2013 Professional Beauty, Manchester
13th – 15th November 2013 Cosmoprof Asia Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong
23rd – 24th February 2014 Professional Beauty Show London, Excel
9th – 10th March 2014 Irish Beauty Show, RDS Dublin
9th – 11th March 2014 IBS (International Beauty Show) New York
• Top quality nail art products • High end cosmetics • Catering for all your beauty needs Order 24/7 on 0044 845 053 7173 Email: info@beautiesfactory.co.uk @bfactoryuk
/BeautiesFactoryUK
Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York City
11th – 14th April 2014 Cosmoprof Bologna Bologna Fairgrounds, Bologna, Italy
14th – 16th June 2014 IBS (International Beauty Show) Las Vegas
nail collection
166 Blazing Lacquer
167 Seductive Lights
168 Gilded Reflection
169 The Rebel
170 Metallic Sorcery
171 Dark Illusions
Bio Sculpture Gel, the original everlasting manicure, is a chip-free, salon treatment that cures to a strong yet flexible, glossy finish under LED light in 30 seconds and lasts for up to three weeks. The Bio Sculpture Gel system can be used for simple overlays as well as to extend and build the nail and includes a range of different treatment gels, designed to suit various nail types.
The Original Everlasting Manicure
The damage-free, nourishing treatment will protect and enhance the natural nails and is available in over 150 colours. As the original nail gel, Bio Sculpture Gel is tried, tested and proven. For further information on starter kits and training courses for beginners and experienced nail technicians contact us on 01 850 0005 / 020 8428 3344 (NI) or email us at info@biosculptureireland.com
BioSculptureIreland
www.biosculptureireland.com
@BioSculptureIRL
BIO SCULPTURE THE INVENTOR OF NON CHIP NAIL COLOUR THAT WON’T CHIP OR SMUDGE!
The Original Everlasting Manicure
Beautiful nails are the ultimate way of caring for yourself and the way that you look. Nails have recently become a focal point of beauty, and this has become prevalent, more than ever, on the London Fashion Week catwalks. Nail colour, is no longer considered a last minute, quick fix. Instead it is an essential beauty treatment that is constantly on show. Bio Sculpture Gel, the original everlasting manicure, is a flexible and durable nail coating that is cured under an LED light. The treatment provides a professional and glossy colour finish that nurtures and protects your natural nails for up to three weeks. Your nails are instantly dry to touch; they won’t smudge or chip meaning that your nails will always look beautiful from one treatment to the next. Bio Sculpture Gel treatments are ideal for busy people, who don’t want to sit in a salon, waiting for their nails to dry. With the new 30 second curing under LED, the treatment time has halved and clients can be out within 30 minutes. The cured nail colour is dry to touch and ready to go, instantly. The treatment will remain beautiful for up to three weeks on fingers and six weeks on toes. When choosing your nail colour, opt for a colour that compliments your skin tone. With Bio Sculpture Gel’s range of over 150 colours, you won’t be limited by choice. It is also important that your nails work well with your wardrobe. Think about the colours that you wear most frequently. If you tend to wear lots of black and dark colours, why not use your nails to express the colour in you? Select a burst of colour for a simple way to express your style and personality. Beyond colour Bio Sculpture Gel’s, expertly created Sculpture Gel can build and shape your nails. Sculptures can repair any damage and ridges in nails as well as create natural looking extensions on even the shortest nails. If you have a tendency to bite your nails, a Bio Sculpture Gel treatment is the perfect way to kick the habit. A flexible Gel coating on your nails will prevent you from biting and will nourish your nails, enabling them to grow. You will have the beautiful nails that you have always dreamt of in no time. Beautiful nails are no longer just for the rich and famous. Indulge yourself in a Bio Sculpture Gel treatment and you’ll be rocking the ultimate fashion accessory all season! This Autumn Winter we are proud to announce the launch of our latest collection ‘Smoke & Mirrors’. With a gothic feel and six of the richest, most opulent colours, the ‘Smoke & Mirrors’ collection will impress.
166 Blazing Lacquer
167 Seductive Lights
168 Gilded Reflection
169 The Rebel
170 Metallic Sorcery
171 Dark Illusions
For further information on products, starter kits and training courses for beginners and experienced nail technicians contact us on 01 850 0005 / 020 8428 3344 (NI) or email us at info@biosculptureireland.com nail collection
BioSculptureIreland 18
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www.biosculptureireland.com
@BioSculptureIRL
l a e t S her
Julien MacDonald €70
e l y t S
ne Rihanna & Cara Deleving
Boots
iclothing.ie €17
€120
River Island €33.50 River Island €27
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Island
Faith
Both of these style-tastic stars have a penchant for grungy, street inspired looks. Think denim, androgynous jumpers adorned with slogans, boots, dungarees, and plaid shirts mixed up with a sexy element like a see through top or asymmetric hemline. This bright yellow t-shirt from River Island €27 is a great way to get a bit of street style. Pair with some denim hotpants and tights or thigh high boots for a Cara Delevinge look, like these €33.50 again from River Island or with these leather hot pants from iclothing.ie €17 for an on stage Rihanna vibe. Or go for dungarees like these from River Island €60. Create a vivid contrast by working the look with this NY Minute High Line Green €1.59. Rihanna loves her stripes and isn’t afraid to get girly when she needs a break from urban grunge. This beautiful Hannah stripe dress from iclothing.ie €48 is very Parisian chic and really evocative of her style. Pair this with the sparkly white tones of the Kardashian Sisters Cabana Nail collection in Sunset Champagne €9.95 from cloud10beauty.com Cara loves her skinny jeans and with her super toned model figure she pulls them off to a tee. These Ripped & Stud Skinny Jeans €19 from Penney’s and this slogan heavy Tres Chic Jacquard Knit Jumper €16 again from Penney’s is perfect to channel her off duty model look. Play to the monochrome in this look but still have fun, with this Fuzzy Coat €8.95 in Tweedy from Sally Hansen that’s packed with texturized black and white glitter.
River
Young, talented and total BFFs, Rihanna and Cara Delevingne are probably the two hottest stars on the planet right now and everything they touch seems to turn to gold. As well as selling millions of albums worldwide, and having a ton of awards under her stylish belt, Rihanna has also turned her talented hand to designing a fashion range for River Island and has become a complete inspiration to young, trendy fashionistas everywhere. Cara Delevingne is the model of the moment. After winning Model of the Year at the British Fashion Awards in 2012, she has been catapulted to mega stardom and has become the musthave fashion gal modelling for everyone from poershouses like Chanel and Burberry to high street heroes like H&M and Pepe Jeans. What they’ve both got in common, apart from massive worldwide fame, is their love of fashion. Their style is an edgy urban vibe with fresh takes on classics. They aren’t afraid to mix a designer piece like a Chanel bag or Moschino belt with something high street and grunge. Everything these gals wear makes headlines, they ooze style and confidence and their look is pretty much always fashion gold. In short, these are today’s style icons and if you want to channel their inimitable style, then read on as we look at some high street pieces that will channel the look.
€60
By Niamh O’Reilly
n seen e hat fans and they’ve bee Both the ladies are massiv s well as more wearable one in some OTT creations as hing not es lov and nie bea of the this year. Cara is a big fan ky on Instagram in an uber fun more than taking a seflie nie bea eye e ggl Go ring Her Red beanie hat. This mega fun er oth is so her. Rihanna on the hat €21 from Debenhams ite Qu . brim stiff er sup h s wit hand loves her baseball cap h wit s one for Go k. loo d on tren masculine, this is a really ous nnel her vibe like this Fam stark slogans to really cha iece trep cen the be s hat the Let hat from River Island €20. a h wit ls nai l ura nat d erstate and match them with und ssing. ter €15 at Hession Hairdre But from pa Cup like shade
icloth in
g.ie €4
8
Red Herring €21
River Island €20
River Island €50
Penney’s €13
Penney’s €31
Rihanna and Cara both love to layer shirts and preppy varsity style jackets and with the winter on the way, it’s a great way to stay warm and look on trend. Mix these with the hats mentioned above and the hotpants for a complete look. This grey varsity style jacket from river island €50 is perfect for getting Rihanna’s look and it even has a giant R on it, meanwhile this contrasting Quilted PU Varsity Bomber €31 from Penney’s is ideal for channelling a touch of Cara. This on trend dark burgundy/brown Lost On Lombard shade from OPI’s San Francisco collection €14.50 from Hennessy Hair & Beauty will pick up on the sleeves from the bomber perfectly, and is very much an in vogue colour. Play to the preppy school style look even more by matching the varsity jackets with Ciate’s chalkboard manicure sets. Paint on the black bottom coat and create neon school inspired chalkboard designs on your nails. The best part is you can wipe them off to your heart’s content then put on the top coat when you’re happy with your design. Asymmetric hems are another trend that’s here to stay and one that’s a hit with the ladies. This Diamond by Julien Macdonald Sheer skirt dress €70 from Debanhams ticks Rihanna’s love of see through fabrics and her fondness of chic mismatched hems. Or if you’re feeling frisky why not go for this leather-style asymmetric mini €13 from Penney’s and these animal print Faith Boots €120 from Debenhams for a high fashion Cara look. Both the gals love animal prints and contrasting them in different ways. These fun Myleene Klass Nails Wild Duo Collection Nail Wraps €16 from Littlewoods.ie are ideal for playing around with. While both Cara and Rihanna love the edgy street look, they both adore getting glammed up, whether it be at a red carpet event or on the catwalk, there’s no denying that they love a bit of full on girl glitz, so look for something uber party-esque like this red and black Little Mistress dress €79 from Littlewoods. With its high fashion peplum and stark colour contrast this keeps its unique edge the girls are such a fan of. Go all out at and match this with deep sparkly shades of OPI’s Muir Muir on the Wall from their San Francisco collection €14.95. Equally this Metallic gold top €340 by Vivienne Westwood paired with this Gold metallic pencil skirt €143 by Almost Famous both available at House of Fraser, is a real catwalk inspired look. Sexy yet edgy, this is something that’s ideal for a night out. This Les Vernis gold hued, almost pewter Alchemie shade €22.50 from Chanel’s new collection is the perfect match.
SEE US ON STAND B6
6-7 OCTOBER RDS, DUBLIN
MEET THE BRAINS BEHIND OUR SUCCESS AT THE SEE US ON STAND B6 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DUBLIN! JIM NORDSTROM has been part of our industry from the very start. His father Dr. Stuart Nordstrom founded CND (Creative Nail Design) in their garage in 1979 and Jim headed the management team that took Creative to the heights you see at CND today! Samuel Sweet’s career in the nail industry started at the tender age of 21 in his home town of Salt Lake City, Utah; by working as a professional in a busy salon. After attending every CND Master Class numerous times, he was finally invited to attend Bootcamp to become part of the elite team of CND Education Ambassadors. Passing Bootcamp kicked off Samuel’s international career as a CND Educator and within 1 year, he became part of the lead training team for CND and one of the most sought after international speakers for our industry. It was on a trip to the UK in 1998 when he met, fell in love and eventually married another Sam - his wife of 14 years, Samantha Sweet. In 1999 Samuel became a founding member of the prestigious Team Creative (now Team CND); in 2005 he became Style Director for the HABIA skills team and also Vice Chairs the Nail Forum. Samuel founded www.salongeek.com in 2002 which is now the world’s largest online community for nail and beauty professionals and in 2006 he and Samantha founded Sweet Squared. You can hear his voice oozing patented Love & Respect when you call the S2 hotline! Sam is a passionate leader with his ability to ignite and inspire his team and an all round nice guy with phenomenal taste in great music and bad movies! DOUG SCHOON is an internationally-recognized scientist, author and educator with over 30 years’ experience in the cosmetic, beauty and personal care industry. He is a leading industry authority, known for his technical and regulatory work that has helped shape the beauty industry. He is currently the president of his own company Schoon Scientific, as well as co-chair of the Nail Manufacturers Council on Safety (NMC), and as Creative Nail Design’s (CND) Chief Scientist, was head of the R&D laboratory, Quality Assurance, and Field Testing/Evaluation departments for almost 20 years.
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Launching at Professional Beauty Dublin 6-7th October, Stand B6!
6-7 OCTOBER
New! CND Shellac Intimates Collection. RDS, DUBLIN Capture the True Essence of Natural Beauty with. Soft, delicate shades for a feminine and graceful look. Choose from four shades; Bare Chemise, Blush Teddy, Nude Knickers, Satin Pajamas.
Charmed – NEW Holiday Season CND Style! Turn on the sparkle and charm this Holiday season! Holiday Duos featuring two sparkling NEW CND Shellac shades and a New Additive all boxed up together. Don’t miss the CND Holiday Additives Collection. Four never seen before pigments plus a fabulous set of crystals. Captivate your sense with CND’s two latest Holiday Scentsations – Veiled Plum and Wicked Ivy. Available in 245ml or with Cranberry as a Scentsations Holiday Trio.
Vinylux With racks and pinkies galore, Vinylux gets special attention this show season. Discover it for yourself at Olympia!
Tibby Olivier – Shrinking Violet and Faith Lift With demos of these two industry rocking systems the Sweet Squared booth is guaranteed to be exciting. Come and see both in action and talk to us about getting these business building treatments into your salon.
Dashing Diva Back in the UK with lots of new offerings! Come and see Design FX – decals with textures and embellishments embedded inside!!! Don’t forget French Wrap – the perfect French Manicure in one neat box.
6-7 OCTOBER RDS, DUBLIN
SEE US ON STAND B6
6-7 OCTOBER RDS, DUBLIN
FORBIDDEN COLLECTION Explore the darker side of romance for Autumn. Shades of desire deepen into obsession. Ravishing. Irresistible. Intoxicating. Embrace your fantasy.
For more updates visit: /sweetsquaredireland @sweetsquaredireland Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with love and respect by:
Unit 6, Western Business Park Oak Road, Dublin 12 t. 01 408 9191 sweetsquared.com Authorised CND sub-distributors: Bournemouth 01202 427860, Edinburgh 0131 333 3180,
Authorised CND distributor partners: Bournemouth 0845 652 5271, Dublin 01 408 9191, London 020 8903 5878, Manchester 01942 675580 Edinburgh 0131 333 3180, Glasgow 0141 427 7735, Leeds 0845 210 6060, Manchester 0845 200 0311
The proper way to file & polish nails By Izabela Stelmaszyk IMS Nails. Diamond Nails, main distributor Ireland & UK The area of each extended nail should be perfectly smooth and uniform. To achieve this effect, you should use a gradation of files and polishing units in the correct order. Firstly, start filing the nail surface with a 80/100 grit file, dedicated to the so-called ‘rough / hard material’, then a medium 150 or 180 grit file and at the end we use a fine-grained file of 240. By using this grading of the granularity of files we get a perfectly smooth surface of extended nails. Each additional abrasive tool, such as a polishing block, removes scratches from the previous abrasive product.
Nail-filing - the proper technique:
1.
Giving the proper length to the nails. File: straight, narrow or wide, trapezoid. Grit 100/80.
1.
2.
File the side edge of the nail through the parallel composition of the file – File: straight, narrow or wide, trapezoid. Use a worn file to avoid cutting the skin.
2. (A)
2. (B)
3.
File the nail surface by pushing from the outside to the inside of the nail plate. In the area of the cuticle, set the file slightly at an angle and try to work it through the outer edge (thus you do not only file the skin but the product, it also gives a shape “of the C-curve ‘) - file banana or trapezium. Use a grit of 100/150. Protect the skin with your own finger.
3. (A)
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3. (B)
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3. (C)
3. (D)
4. The outer edge of the nail is created by
placing the file parallel to the length of the finger and perpendicular to your chest. Use vertical movements to the free edge. File: straight, wide.
POP THE QUESTION
4.
Modeling the shape of the nail you must remember to keep the proper nail arch i.e. the ratio between its elements, that means: • a regular, gentle C-curve; • keeping the location of the stress point; • maintaining the hair line around cuticles; •a llowing adequate thickness of the product on the free edge; •k eeping the proper shape of the tunnel (the nail can not be flat!).
After careful filing using the product and giving the final shape of the nails we start polishing. There are several ways to help you achieve the perfect nail gloss:
1. Intensive polishing of the nail surface with a sanding block (i.e. polisher) with different grain and then finishing with a polishing block, usually it is a leathery, smooth surface. You can also add a drop of cuticle oil in order to loosen the product.
2. Using polishers with creams that are applied to the surface of the nail and polished using a buffing machine with a chamois leather tip to achieve a high gloss.
3. Putting a high gloss nail polish on top of the nail (but you have to remember that when removing the nail polish your nails will be dull again).
4. Applying high gloss UV top coat.
LIZ, DO YOU HAVE ANY TIPS FOR GETTING NEW CLIENTS? What about introducing an Active Client Referral Programme? Active referrals require you to encourage your clients to send all their family and friends to you salons, and naturally, if you expect a client to refer to you, you need to make it worth their time and effort. You must establish ways to reward your clients for their referrals. When you are developing your reward for your referring clients, keep in mind the lifetime value of the new client that they will introduce to your salon. This should help you to decide what you are prepared to offer as a worthwhile incentive. The potential of an active referral programme is to double the number of new clients coming to your salon, so make your rewards worthwhile! Liz McKeon Beauty Business Expert www.lizmckeon.com Follow us on: Twitter Linkedin Facebook
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In the Sp tlight
FLAWLESS SOAK-OFF OR DAMAGED NAILS As professionals, we should always be trying to protect our clients by being educated. After all, the client trusts us as the professional to provide a first class service.
As with all nail treatments, correct preparation of the natural nail is the key to a flawless finish. Throughout my journeys in the industry, I have heard clients commenting many times that their nails have become damaged due to gel polish. Unfortunately, it’s not the gel enhancement that causes the damage in most cases; it is the neglect of knowledge from the technician. All overlay enhancements are damage-free and safe until they are used incorrectly. In most cases, it is the improper removal of nail coatings that causes the damage. Don’t let this happen to your client. Here is my advice from one tech to another to help you avoid any of this damage occurring. Always remember the 60 sec rule. Once you have soaked the natural nail in any form of liquid e.g. soak off solution or acetone, you must take the utmost care as this will temporarily soften the surface of the nail plate, making the surface more susceptible to damage. When the product is not removed correctly and force is used to remove, i.e. a removal tool or even wooden hoof sticks, it will show up as tiny white spots on the nail plate, this is when the nail plate has began to detach from the nail bed. The cause is due to people scrapping the nail enhancements to remove the product. Remember there’s no rush; always take the necessary time and steps that are needed to completely soak off the product. Remember when removing UV coatings you must be cautious and have a gentle touch. Other rules to take into consideration are following
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By Louise McKee, Cuccio Ireland
manufacturing instructions; make sure you don’t mix products; always used the same brand as these where all design to go together. The same applies to the lamp you are using, check with the manufacturer to know what lamp has been recommended to go with your product, ensure sufficient curing of the product but also that you’re not under-curing a gel product onto the natural nails which in time can cause dehydration, damage and over exposure. Many nail techs use acetone to soak off and most ranges have their own soak-off available which is infused with emollients. This not only ensures quicker removal but hydration of the natural nail whilst the removal process takes place. Also, once the gel polish has been applied it is advisable for the client to return to the salon for safe removal. Cuticle oil should be sold to your client to help keep their nails healthy and strong. I would also recommend that your client incorporates regular manicures and pedicures to maintain their beautiful nails. As we know, not all UV colour coating will be suited for every nail type e.g. problematic thin or weak nail plates. As always, nail professionals should use their professional judgment when assessing a client’s suitability for any nail service. So being educated will protect you and your client from this type of damage and will provide them with that ‘flawless finish’ they require.
PEOPLE WHO CHANGED THE NAIL INDUSTRY
JESSICA VARTOUGHIAN
M A R G A R E T PA K
DEBORAH CARVER
G R E G S A LO
RICK SLACK
T O M H O LC O M B
Z oya R eyzis
NEWTON LUU
LEGENDS
INVENTORS
SUCCESSFUL PEOPLE
Tell you the story how this all started and their future plans Let the history begin...
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27
People who changed the nail industry Greg Salo
Young Nails Guru of Nail Education
I started my company when I was 20 years old, now I am 41. The first 10 years I spent understanding the trade and I got my license to relate to the nail technicians, but when I started doing the nails I didn’t have a mentor to help me. I was watching competitions as I wanted to learn to do nails as well as all of those people. The first time I saw Tom Holcomb was back in 1993 or 94 and I remember being at the trade show and watching him working, going wow I can’t believe how many people are standing around this guy watching him work. This was what inspired me to go to school and learn how to do it. I was fortunate when I came out of school as I had had a really good mentor; my distributor in Canada taught me how to use an electric file properly. For us our focus is on helping professionals earn a better living or better life. I don’t know if we have changed the nail industry, we have definitely made an impact. I never thought I would be in the position I am today. When it comes to doing nails, I understand nails, I feel fine but not only do I understand how to do it, but how to teach it. Young Nails is all about helping professionals get to the next level. Ten years ago, when we were building the brand, everyone was more interested in getting a trophy and saying “see what you can win if you use this brand” but at the end of the day what the competition does is put a trophy on your shelf, it will not guarantee a much larger income. The only way you will be able to get to the next level is if you realize that we are not in the nail business, we are in the service business and in order for you to basically
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separate yourself from the rest of the herd you have to be able to offer a service that is totally different from everyone else. I can say that one of the biggest changes I helped make is giving an electric file a good reputation. After all, it’s not the tools that do damage it is the fools.
Jessica Vartoughian Jessica First Lady of Nails
I was working in a nail and beauty salon doing plain manicures when acrylics started to become big and I would think of how I could make a statement instead of following trends and help my clients to grow natural nails. So, I learnt how to grow healthy nails and put on different layers; the base, colour and top coat. I knew that nails would grow but wanted to know what to do to them to make them look beautiful? Little by little I perfected my system, once I had done it I asked for more money from my employer and I was very successful. Back then most nail bars were inside hair salons so everyone was coming to me before having their hair done, so after seeing that I had loyal customers who wanted to follow me I pushed my family to help me open my first salon. This was the first salon dedicated to just nails in Los Angeles. I worked with different marketing people and I got a PR firm and they advised me on what retail products to use. Throughout all the years of experience, I had learnt so much about different types of nails and so my husband and I finally decided that we would make our own product. In 1970 we launched Jessica nail polish line.
Newton Luu
Le Chat Perfect Match Concept
I started a salon business in college, one year before I graduated after a friend of mine who was a manicurist had been complaining to me about how much money she could make. That’s how I got into the business, because she was using my credit card. We opened our first
Now Available at our online shop www.catherine.ie
NP AESTHETIC
NP CHARMING
NP EVERGREEN
NP GRACEFUL
NP WATERFALL
salon and a year later we opened a second one. It looked like a good business so I thought I could franchise as I saw more potential in manufacturing products. First we launched a nail polish and then a powder gel system, which we invented together with the idea of making a matching gel polish and nail polish. That concept went really well and everyone caught on to this idea. Nail technicians wanted to have two colours but didn’t want to waste their time going and looking for it, so we created a concept to change the market forever. Say, you have mother and daughter going to the salon and mother gets gel nails done, and the daughter picks the nail polish in the same colour – we would have it. The next changing idea was our invention of Gel Thinner. We listened to our customers complaining about their product going thick, so we invented drops, which makes the gel polishes go back to their right consistency. I am helping my competitors but mostly we help nail technicians.
Zoya Reyzis
Zoya Patron of the Art of Beauty
When my husband and I came to America I was a pianist. It was hard to make it big in music, you had to exceptional. By accident I got into the nail industry, I had a salon and spa and then we started creating a polish. But I always felt like educating, because I am an educator. Working with American people I discovered they didn’t know much about history, so we decided to name our colours after famous woman in history, in poetry, in the Bible or operas, so we had Carmen, Maria Antoinette and Cleopatra. I remember one time I asked my client if she knew who Cleopatra was and she said “Of course I know, Elizabeth Taylor”, but I also learnt at the same time who Pocahontas was. They weren’t just random names, colours represented each of the characters and that was a new concept. First we wondered which colours to use, but I then thought, ‘how many colours are there in a rainbow?’ We did 7 colours with a story behind each of them and a little later a new generation came and the nail polishes were named after pop culture. We have a very strong lady behind the chemistry side of things and now she keeps working on new ideas and nobody knows where we go
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in the future. The young generations choose their nail polish depending on their mood, not like years ago when it had to match your shoes or outfit. Today is a totally different story.
Margaret Pak
Dashing Diva Alternative Solution to a fast nail service
The whole idea of Dashing Diva started in 2000-2001 as a nail salon franchise business. We looked at all the nail salons out there and realised that they weren’t branded and the service they offered was inconsistent. So we decided to become more innovative and went on to create a destination nail salon that is all about fast beauty for all things nails. We started with the concept and the name ‘Dashing Diva’ which means beautiful and fast. We created this wonderfully branded nail salon business. But it wasn’t enough for us, all other professionals wanted to have access to our products. In 2006, we focused on making our products available to all professionals worldwide. We created nail stickers with designs which are hard to create with nail polish and we manufactured the products ourselves so we could control and keep the high quality.
Deborah Carver NailPro A little bit of colour
I am what is called a “niche” publisher. I look for opportunities to publish where there are only one or two magazines in existence. In 1989 I found that the booming nail industry only had one publication........and Nailpro Magazine was born to compete with the existing magazine. My approach to this new industry was to make nails glamorous. The existing publication had manufacturers on the front cover and black and white editorial inside. We had a model with gorgeous pink and white nails on our first
cover. Our editorial was full color. People immediately fell in love with Nailpro and the competitive magazine stepped up to the plate and changed their magazine as well. From Nailpro I found the professional beauty industry and started publishing Dayspa, Beauty Store Business, Launchpad, The Colorist, and many others. Through the other magazines, which reach approximately 500,000 beauty industry professionals, we brought nails to the forefront of the beauty industry. And today, nails are the hottest beauty service in the marketplace. In January of this year we launched Nail It! Magazine which is consumer based and distributed on newsstands, drug stores, supermarkets, airports and train stations....30,000 distribution sites in all. We also started nail competitions which continue full force today.
Rick Slack
NSI Fathers of Artificial Nails
Fathers of Artificial Nails I started in a laboratory working with our chemist and then I went from the laboratory to the manufacturing department. Then after a number of years, I started getting into sales and marketing. I would give a lot of credit to my father and Dr. Nordstrom who was a dentist. He called my father back in the 70s’ and he was looking for dental materials in our company name. He wanted to use the dental material for nails, and my dad knew what he wanted to use it for. So he said “listen Dr.Nordstrom we manufacture in very small amounts but we can get together and do some work for you”, which we did. Jim and Tom did the marketing and my dad was the chemist behind it. When I got out of college I said to my dad that though did a lot of work for other nail companies, I would prefer to start our own company. In 1987 that’s exactly what we did, we started Nail Systems. We changed the name in 1989 to NSI. We started to perfect acrylic, we took some formulations that we used in the dental business called fiberglass. That product was called Choice, the first fiber bonded powders and then it moved to Attraction nail powders. Now I travel all over the world and set up all our international distributors.
Tom Holcomb
(1966 - 2011) Trinity Beauty by Tom Holcomb Big Thanks to Jeff Holcomb
When Tom started cosmetology school at 17yrs old he was interested in hair; he cut friends’ and family’s hair for years, so he knew it was his calling until he was introduced to acrylic powders. I remember Tom practicing with this new material that allowed him to mold it into any shape that took his fancy and within days his instructors told him he should compete and that was the beginning. Tom won his first professional competition at WIMBA. I’ll never forget him driving around the corner with an 8ft trophy sticking out of the sunroof, with his smile from ear to ear and he pretty much stayed that way for the rest of his life. Tom often enjoyed product development but most of all he liked helping others to be comfortable with their own talent. He always found it easier to connect with students that hid in the back of a classroom and always diverted his attention to the shy. Education came easy for Tom because he was very personable and comfortable sharing secrets or techniques. He practiced his whole career and never stopped learning from his peers. After spending over half his life travelling he decided to take some time off and focus on things he loved most: family, friends and his passion for camping and fishing; he always had a new adventure planned for Dad, myself and my brother, for example, Alaska, Everglades, kayaking and so on. After his much needed rest he started getting very excited about launching a new product and started working on it day and night. One of the last things we spoke about was how excited he was to see his friends from around the world again. Tom was a son, brother and friend to many whether they met him or not. His success never stopped him from being very giving and downto-earth. He was a blessing to all of us that will carry on in our hearts for many years to come. Not a day goes by I don’t receive a message from someone around the world telling me how he changed their life. “That’s my brother Tommy” Thank you everyone for your kindness and respect.
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LET’S GO
BACK TO BASICS GLOSSARY Source: www.nailsuperstore.com
when it is a solid (powder/polymer), but is considered harmful in its’ liquid form (monomer). Nail techs should avoid acrylic systems with MMA monomer.
ABS Plastic
Acrylic Brush
Acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene monomers, a co-polymer used in the manufacture of most plastic nail tips.
Acid Primer Acrylic acid primer; usually refers to methacrylic acid type primers (MAP) that promote adhesion between the natural nail and enhancement product.
Acetone Solvent used to break down nail polish and acrylics. A chemical in the ketone family. Acetone is neither better or worse than non-acetone polish removers. Nonacetone polish removers are made from MEK – methyl ethyl ketone, also a member of the ketone family.
Acrylic Generally refers to two-part liquid monomer and powdered polymer nail systems.
Acute Effects Adverse health effects caused by sudden or short-term exposure. Refers to single or multiple exposures within one 24-hour period or less. See also “chronic effects”.
Adhesive A chemical substance that causes two surfaces to stick together. The most common nail adhesive is cyanoacrylate.
American Manicure Usually describes a variation on the French Manicure, where a more natural white is used on the tip (vs. a brighter white in FM), and the polish used on the bed is more sheer (vs. more opaque in FM).
Back-Fill AKA: Fill, fill-in, touch-up, maintenance, etc. In the early days of the nail industry, a back-fill was considered a more thorough fill process than normal fills. Whereby arches were moved back, and the entire nail was balanced. In today’s more technical and advanced standards, every fill appt. is considered to be a complete backfill service. Also, some salons use the term back-fill to differentiate a fill on pink and whites (back-filling the white free-edge), and the term fill to mean a regular fill on non-P&W’s.
Bacteria A single cell organism. Some bacteria are capable of causing disease. Bacterial spores are a dormant state of some bacteria. Viruses are a large group of infective agents that reproduce in living cells.
Base
Antiseptic A chemical used to destroy bacteria, fungus, and viruses on human skin. The process of disinfection is used for surfaces or implements.
Airbrushing The art of applying nail decorations with an airbrush gun.
Allergic Reaction An adverse reaction in the body usually characterized by skin redness, itching, blisters and localized swelling. Misuse of nail products can lead to allergic reactions.
Acrylic Hardened and cured coating that results from a precise mix ratio of liquid monomer and powdered polymer. Most acrylic monomers are made primarily from Ethyl Methacrylate (EMA). The polymers contain approximately 70% EMA and 30% MMA (Methyl Methacrylate), and a very small percentage of initiator, such as Benzoyl Peroxide. Note: MMA is not harmful
32
Usually a natural hair bristle brush used to apply acrylic nails. They come in various sizes, shapes, and styles.
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Also known as alkali or alkaline, having a pH value of greater than 7 (on the pH scale of 0-14, with 7 being neutral). Acetone is a base with a pH of about 9 or 10. Baking soda is also a base. Microorganisms are killed by both high and low pH values.
Chevron In nails, refers to a style of French Manicure. Instead of following the natural smile line on the tip area with white polish (or colored polish, or airbrush), an inverted “V” shape is used.
Colored Acrylics and Gels Pre-colored product that allows for the building of nails with color built-in to the structure of the nail. Also great for nail art.
Contamination Contact with or addition of one substance that makes another substance impure.
Co-polymer Polymers made of two or more different types of monomers. ABS plastic used in nail tips is a co-polymer.
Crystallization The formation of very small crystals in uncured acrylic resulting from cold temperatures or drafts. The cause is liquid monomer freezing into a solid during application, thus preventing it from correctly polymerizing around the powdered polymer.
Cure The complete hardening of a nail coating that goes beyond the “drying” stage.
Curing Agent Substance (catalyst or accelerator) used to “harden” (cure) a product. Every type of nail product utilizes some form of curing agent (heat to evaporate solvents during polymerization of acrylics or photoinitiators in gels). Even water can be a curing agent; exposure to water in the air (humidity) is responsible for causing nail adhesives to dry, hence why they need to be kept closed.
Cyanoacrylate
Benzoyl Peroxide
Nail adhesive or resin ingredient used in nail tip application and wraps.
A heat-sensitive initiator used in acrylic nails.
Cuticle
Breathing Zone The two-foot area around your head, from which all your breathing air is drawn; especially relevant when working with Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC’s). VOC’s are found in many nail products. Nail techs should protect their breathing zone when working with nail products.
Brittleness How likely something is to break under force. Example: Glass is strong (not easily dented or scratched), but it is brittle (will break if you drop it for instance).
A layer of translucent or colorless skin that is shed from the underside of the proximal nail fold.
Decontamination The highest level of decontamination is sterilization.
Dehydrate To dehydrate the nail, means to remove moisture from the surface, which will improve adhesion and help to prevent growth of yeast, bacteria and fungi. Dehydrators are substances capable of absorbing water from the natural nail.
De-lamination The peeling apart of two previously adhered or layered surfaces. Natural nails can de-laminate due to a lack of natural oil and moisture in the nail plate layers; this is most often referred to as peeling nails. In regards to acrylic nails or other nail enhancement systems, it describes lifting of the enhancement (acrylic) from the natural nail.
Disinfection A procedure used to control microorganisms on non-living surfaces such as: instruments, implements and surfaces. Please see the Sanitation section of this site for more information on disinfection, sanitation, and sterilization.
Distal Edge of Nail Distal means far. In nail technology, it is used to describe the part of the nail farthest away from the cuticle area.
Enamel Nail polishes with a higher level of filmformers are generally distinguished as enamels.
Julija Celovalnikova Nail Artists Ireland International Educator
Epidermis is the upper most layer of skin. It is attached to the bottom of the nail plate and is ridged with tiny ‘rails’ that run in the same direction as the dermis grooves. The effect is much like a train riding on its tracks as it moves forward.
Eponychium The extension of the proximal (near) nail fold at the base of the nail body that partly overlaps the lunula. This is live tissue and should never be cut or nipped.
Ethyl Methacrylate (EMA) Ethyl Methacrylate is the most widely used monomer in 2-part systems used to create artificial nail enhancements (monomer/ polymer, AKA liquid and powder). EMA can be safely soaked from nails for complete removal. EMA is considered a ‘flexible’ monomer.
Exothermic Heat releasing reaction that occurs when two monomers join. All nail enhancement products release heat. Sometimes this heat can be felt – especially when curing U-V gels, or when using adhesive dryers or wrap accelerator sprays, and occasionally with liquid powder acrylic systems.
1.
2.
Prep the nail
Fit the form
3.
4.
Extend the nail with clear acrylic and then apply pink cover powder. Add pink powder mixed with glitter and drag it to the free edge. Leave the darker colour near the smile line.
Cover the nail with clear acrylic. Shape and buff. Add some one stroke nail art if desired.
Fill-In To maintain a set of nails after the full-set. See “back-fill”.
Film Formers Polymers that form hard smooth surfaces after the solvents evaporate. Used in nail polish and hair spray.
Flexibility How much a substance will bend under force.
Free Radicals Very excited molecules which cause many kinds of chemical reactions, including polymerization of acrylic nails. CONTINUED NEXT ISSUE...
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SALON REVIEW Relax, refresh and revitalise your senses... Your sense, is a place when you are both home and at home – says Louise McKee, owner of Flawless Day Spa. Flawless Nails was founded around 10 years ago by Louise McKee, an 11 years experienced nail technician and due to a fantastic success throughout the years she now has opened a brand new Day Spa called Flawless Rose Day Spa in Belfast. Her interest in nail and beauty industry started when she was a child. Louise was spending all her money on false nails and nail varnishes. After dropping out of the University and discovering passion for this industry, Louise started working in a small salon where she gained a lot of experience. Her main passion were nails. Once she had built a large of satisfied and loyal customers she opened her own salon, Flawless Day Spa and only 1 year later continued her success with opening Flawless Tanning studio.
Louise says “It has always been my dream to create a space where people can come to truly relax. Welcome to my world of Flawless Rose Day Spa”. But her success doesn’t stop there. She always wanted to teach other people, so Louise became a nail assessor. She worked with a college where she studied for 3 years. Now Louise has beautiful salon, tanning studio, education academy and she is exclusive distributor of Cuccio Ireland.
Flawless Rose Day Spa offers wide range of treatments which brings high level customers who wants to spend nice time either in sauna or in a bath tub. This is a full day trip from back massage, foot spa, manicure through make up. Opening Hours:
Address: 254 Shankill Rd , Belfast BT 13 Tel +44 2890 237377
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Mon – Wed 9.30 : 5.30 Thurs 9.00 : 9.00 Friday 9.30 : 8.30 Saturday 9.30 : 4.30 Open Every Last Sunday
TREATMENTS Treatments y Spa provides Spa Da se Ro s les law • F a , Hot tub to their thermal Sp n io ct di ad e th th wi tic ing the more fantas and Sauna. While us y. da to y str the beauty indu • product range on nge are re and Pedicure ra icu an M s/ ice rv se il ccio • All Na ccio Veneer and Cu Cuccio Naturale,Cu t uc od ce of pr Colour is our choi t Paris products are Payo • All Facial and body porium used are Eyelash Em • Eyelash Products are Hollywood Glow • Tanning products by Cuccio used is Royal Fm • Make up product o Brows • Brows brand is Pr
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Sanitise, push back the eponychum, remove cuticle, file and shape. Apply Cuccio veneer prep, fuse and base - cure for 2 minutes UV or 30 seconds LED. Apply 1st coat of Cuccio veneer (Breakfast in New York) - cure for 2 minutes UV or 30 seconds LED. Apply 2nd coat of Cuccio veneer colour - cure for 2 minutes UV or 30 seconds LED. Using a fine stripping brush, apply 2 stripes of Cuccio veneer (Verona Lace) and then 2 stripes of Cuccio veneer (Kyoto Cherry Blossoms). Using a clean stripping brush drag from the free edge corner at an angle towards the cuticle area, continue this until all stripes are dragged throughout the nail - cure for 2 minutes UV or 30 seconds LED. Apply Cuccio veneer top coat (with micro shatter technology) - cure for 2 minutes UV or 30 seconds LED. Finish of by wiping with Cuccio veneer cleansing solution (which contains cranberry oil, so no need for cuticle oil). N O.8 (4 / 20 1 3)
35
CRYSTAL
Pleasure Cover story by Karolina Boczek
I
got up early for the shoot, had to drop my little one at the crèche and drive to Dublin. Listening to Michael Bubble didn’t help in relaxing my nerves. This was the first time I was modeling for the cover. Louisa and I had had a few ideas of how the cover should look, but it turned out much better than we thought. Edyta, when I met her, seemed to be very chilled out about the whole shoot which made me even shakier. Though I must say, that the search for a professional who can handle the photo shoot the way Edyta did, has ended. I was so relaxed at the end of the day that I didn’t care about the cramps I got posing or hunger because we totally forgot to eat!
So quiet… even though leaves on the trees have turned rusty and golden, on a day like today you can still feel the last of the summer sun caressing your skin as the sun goes down. The smell of ripe fruits from the orchard lingers in the air and a gentle wind whispers in the faded grass running further to ripple the sapphire surface of the lake. A perfect setting for a romantic night…tonight she is the princess. He gently lifts her feet up, turns on a song, lights the oriental scented candle and pours her a glass of red wine; so free of any worries, so relaxed, so intimate, and so good. It is moments like that you know it is happiness as your eyes shines like diamonds. Such a pure crystal pleasure…
LOUISA FLANAGAN – As the proud owner of Nail and Beauty Systems (NSI) in Swords, Co Dublin and with over 15 years experience within the beauty industry Louisa is constantly watching out for the new trends in the Nail and Beauty industry. Louisa has dedicated all of her time to improving her skills and passing these new skills on to her students. Not only is Louisa an educator but is also the owner of several salons throughout Dublin so she understands the pressures and requirements of running a business on a day to day basis. Louisa Flanagan has won IBPA National Nail Technician of the year 3 times and was subsequently approached to join the IBPA judging panel. Louisa has travelled all over the world to judge at international nail competitions. Louisa’s training facility in Nail and Beauty Systems (NSI) has also won IBPA Best Training award in 2008.
Nail and Beauty Systems, Unit B5, Metro Business Park, Kettles Lane, Swords, Co. Dublin, Ireland Tel: +353 (0)18409124 www.nailandbeauty.ie
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What do you think of when you look at the cover? Make your own cover story! Write a short story about what you feel or think when you look at the picture, is there any story behind it? We will pick the best one and you get a chance to win Swarovski Crystals! Send your stories to karolina@yournailsmag.com. Deadline 1st November 2013.
EDYTA ZURAWSKA – A full time professional photographer based in Dublin with great passion for photography. Edyta studied photography when there was no digital cameras and with all that experience of hard work to take the perfect picture and not be able to retouch it she is one of the best photographers in Ireland. “I’ve always loved photography. The ability to capture and document the most important moments in peoples lives forever!” To find her work please go to Facebook page. facebook.com/edithzurawskiphotography
Crystal vs. Rhinestone
Crystal and rhinestone are stones very much used from jewellery to decoration. The good part is that Crystals and rhinestones are very much affordable. It can be quite expensive for someone to buy precious stones like diamonds and sapphire and in such a situation, crystals and rhinestones give them almost the same fashionable choices as what one gets from spending thousands. Rhinestones are also called as a poor woman’s crystal. This shows that rhinestones are cheaper than Crystals.
1.
2. Natural Nail Prep: First: Spray your hands and clients feet with Sani-Pure. It will help reduce the spread of infection. Check for all contraindications. Remove all nail varnish from your client’s toes. Soak your client’s feet for @ 5 mins and dry completely. The nails should be clipped back to the required length using toenail clippers. Do not cut across in one piece as this will split the nail. The use an emery board to file across the top of the toenail. Any corners should be smoothed away to prevent ingrowing to nails. The toenail should then be beveled and smoothed as you would bevel and smooth a fingernail. Repeat on all toe. 1. A pply a very small dollop of NSI’s Vanish Cuticle Dissolve to each cuticle and gently massage. Gently push back and remove any non-living tissue. Wipe excess Vanish from each nail using a nail wipe moistened with NSI cleanse. 2. Remove the shine from the natural nail using the endurance file 180/180 grit file following the contour of the nail and moving the file in the direction of nail plate growth. Remove excess dust with a plush brush. 3. Using an NSI nail wipe saturated with Nailpure plus, press and rub into the natural nail sidewalls and under the free edge to remove oil, moisture and contaminants. Allow the natural nail to become chalky white.
3.
4.
5.
4. A pply primer to the natural nails. Insert toe separators or tissue.
Crystal Application:
6.
5. Apply a layer of EzFlow Soak Off Clear Builder Gel to nail surface and cap the free edge of the nail edge by lightly brushing the product along the sides and the end of the free edge. 6. Apply the crystals, using a pick up pencil or orange wood stick. In one application you could use up to @500 - 700 crystals (using SS5’s) for a full set and @ 30-50 for big toes only. Wholesale price for 1,440 crystals is €35. 7-8. Start from the free edge (see pic 8) and following a uniformed line apply the crystals one by one in a straight line.
7.
9. A fter all crystals have been applied cure the nail under a 36w lamp for 2 mins. Do not apply a top coat as this may dull the finish of the crystals.
Removal procedure:
8.
1. S aturate a wipe with acetone or gel remover and apply this to the nail 2. Wrap the nail with foil for 10-15 mins 3. Crystals will be easily removed, 4. Buff your client’s nails and polish.
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HATS & SCARVES By Niamh O’Reilly
I
t was a pretty good summer. We don’t get to say that often enough and yes we’re known to complain a lot about the weather, but in all fairness we did get a good dose of sun... so much so, that many even complained about missing the rain! A phrase you never thought you’d head an Irish person utter, but that’s obviously what a few weeks of sun does to us. Anyway with the evenings about to draw in, its time to look to ahead to what the new season has in store for us and if you’re secretly tired of wearing vest tops and shorts and are dying to jump into the autumn/ winter looks, but still dread the thoughts of heavy coast and boots, then start off with some uber chic seasonal accessories like scarves and hats. Both are an ideal way to inject some new seasons styling into your wardrobe without getting all coated up! This season expect to see a lot of black. Its very much back on the style agenda, as is grey, white and monochrome. A little boring for some, but classic none the less and easy to make your look effortlessly chic. Colour is still going to be around though; red in particular will be seen on the high street as well as haute couture rails. Think deep, rich shades like burgundy and you’ve got it. That Royal, Kate Middleton, blue is also here to stay so mix it up with these great tones. Embellishments are also big this season. Look out for textures like fur, leather and sparkly bling, pearls, feathers and lace. This is also a big trend in nails too. Texture is key. No longer are nail polishes just a 2D thing, now its all about texture, beads, crystals, and a major emphasis on fun. Fedoras are a big trend this season, but forget any old man connotations, this time it’s very much a sexy style statement. Channel you inner Miranda Kerr and
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be right on trend with this fab wine fedora just €8 from Penney’s and compliment it with this stunning creamy Butter London ‘Bumster’ shade now available from Hession Hairdressing. If red isn’t you thing, go for something a little more classic with this grey fedora €40 from Marks and Spencer. The chic grey gives it a totally versatile appeal as it will go with practically any shade in your wardrobe. Do a ‘Posh’ and pair with a crisp white shirt and pencil skirt for total retro fashion kudos, make sure to add a touch of colour to your talons with this on trend burgundy ‘Rock ‘n’ Roll’ shade from Rimmel €6.25. Not quite as dramatic as a fedora, the cloche shaped hat is another that’s been seen on plenty of high street shelves recently. Again it’s a classic shape that really never goes out of style. More prim than sexy, but still very chic it ticks all the right fashion boxes. This one from Dickins & Jones €60 at House of Fraser ticks the embellishment box and in on trend grey means it will be a real wardrobe keeper. Match it with this deep grey shade Smokey from Seche €12.99. With its slightly sparkly finish it will pick up on the hats bling perfectly. Beanies are back with a bang thanks to the likes of Rita Ora, Rihanna and Cara Delevingne who have made them cool once more… and apart from being in vogue, come deep winter time they keep you mega warm too! Seek out fab details and prints to really get the most out of the look. This Cross Stud Beanie is just €3 from Penney’s a total steal, with a very rock n roll feel to it. Go for something really fun with this Aqua Splash €6 from the Models Own Splash collection which is packed with mega light reflecting sparkly glitter. A little more subdued, but very much on the chic side of things
and with a fab hint of silver running through the thread, this Linea beanie €18 is ideal for every day wear. Compliment the classic grey with this fab NYX Precious Pearls Nail Set in White Pearl, €14 littlewoods. ie. The addition of the chic beading texture on the nail will take your look into the on trend realm, yet keeping it classic thanks to the beanie. Faux Fur is going to be massive this season. From accessories to clothes and even shoes, expect to see plenty of it around the high street. In terms of hats and scarves, faux fur is a no brainier – both chic and practical you can channel you inner Russian princess from Dr Zhivago easily in a fur hat like this Accessorize Tsarina Faux Fur Cossack hat €33. Pair this with the uber cute Nails Inc Bling It On Floral kit, €34 Littlewoods which includes the most delightfully girly pearl, bow and flower embellishments so you can really channel you inner princess with ease. This Black faux fur Fifi hat €40 Dune is another fab choice and a little more toned down than the white version. Get your on trend monochrome on my matching it with this stark Snow in Megeve Colour Riche shade from L’Oreal €7.55 It’s nice to inject some colour and pattern into your wardrobe with a scarf. And until the temperatures really drop you can have plenty of fun with lighter fabrics. This blue butterfly number from Divine Boutique €20 is a real stunner and a great way to add a splash of life into your workwear. Pick up on the pink with this rich matte Bubbleicious from Maybellines’ Colour Show €4.55 Silk scarves have always been pretty much on fashion and this sumptuous Matthew Williamson scarf from the House of Fraser is a real indulgence. At €230 it’s a bit pricey but the uber cool flamingo motif takes this into the retro chic fashion territory. Pick up on the super-bright almost neon yellow by matching it with L’Oreal’s Banana Pop €7.55 for a head turning finish. A lot less pricey, but still a capable of making a total impact is this hot red Paul Costelloe Living Borocco Wrap €30, which can double up as an evening wear wrap for a special occasions. Keep it classic and match it with this dark and aptly named Mysterious nail colour from Chanel’s Autumn/Winter collection €22.50 Another one with a fab eye catching print is this Emily Star Print Scarf €12 from Littlewoods.ie. A cool mix of pink and brown, this will perk up your weekend wear in a flash. Match it with this made for it Elixir pink shade from Chanel’s Autumn/Winter collection €22.50 for maximum effect.
METALLIC GLAMOUR Caroline Carrick Astonishing Nails Educator
1. Prep the nails. Apply primer if needed.
2. Apply base coat of polish or gel polish.
3. Put 2 coats of mat colour or 2 coats of gel polish and then put matt gel polish top coat.
4. Cut out the desired
5. Stick it to the dried nail. If it’s a gel polish, remove the sticky residue first and then buff the nails. Press the wrap firmly.
6. Apply 1 coat of nail polish or 2 coats of gel polish.
shape of the metal nail wrap.
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PHOTOGRAPHER: ERIK OGINSKI
MY LIFE AS A HAND MODEL By Ciara Pisa I love being a hand model because it is a very fun and unique occupation. My hands have competed in many nail competitions and have been featured on magazine covers. People have always commented on my hands and nails since I was 9 years old, and one day my mom decided to create an account for me on handmodels.net (which is now defunct). It was on this site that I was discovered for my very first job as a hand model. The gig
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entailed modeling different designs on my nails for Pico Nails in Los Angeles. The photographer for this assignment recommended me to a company that needed a hand model to advertise a receipt machine. It was at this particular job that it was suggested I become a fashion model. So for the past 2 years I have been modeling clothing for designers, fashion shows, and Japan Up! Magazine. My next adventure has been as a hand model for nail artists for nail competitions. These competitions have led to my hands being on the cover of Nails Magazine for the May 2013 issue and an upcoming issue for November 2013. Hand models need to take care of their hands and nails just as a model needs to care for her face and body. Every other day I use a sugar scrub to exfoliate the dead skin and I use hand lotion to soften my hands daily. Each night I make sure I moisturize my cuticles and nails with cuticle oil. Whenever I go outside, I make sure to wear sunscreen not only on my body, but also on my hands to protect them from premature aging. My routine is pretty simple as you can see.
As long as I receive requests to use my hands for magazines, instructional videos, etc., I will continue hand modeling. Neither height nor weight is ever an issue for this type of modeling, however, I do maintain an active and healthy lifestyle because I feel better when I do and it gives me energy to keep
up with my busy schedule. My goal is for my hands to be used in national advertisements or doubling for actresses in movies or television. This job is a lifestyle and I am enjoying every moment. Please visit and like my hand modeling page on Facebook: facebook.com/pages/ HAND-MODEL-CiaraPisa/122081817835436?ref=hl
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DUBLIN 6-7 OCTOBER RDS, DUBLIN
THE COUNTDOWN HAS BEGUN Ireland’s key event is arriving at the RDS in just a matter of months, if you work in beauty, spa and wellness, this is not to be missed. • Fashion/ Catwalk Theme: Colour Pop • Fantasy/ Body Art Theme: Fairy Invasion • Character/ Prosthetics/ SFX Theme: Zombie Nation
Professional Beauty Dublin is back with its annual appearance at the RDS bringing together the best in nails, skincare, hair, tanning, equipment and more to thousands of visitors from the beauty, spa and wellness industries. The free to attend seminar programme held across two live stages has a new agenda to inspire and competitions for nails and make-up are back to give professionals a platform to be seen by top industry judges and onlookers.
NEW NAIL BRANDS ADDED TO THE LINE-UP Visitors will be able to get their hands on the new winter collections from Morgan Taylor, CND, NSI, Gelish, Crystal Nails and Stargazer, as well as learning from the experts from the live demonstrations on the latest techniques. The newest gel polish system from Crystal Nails and the brand new CrystaLac colour gels at a special show price are some of the occasions you can’t afford to miss! GET SPOTTED AT THE SHOW
FREE TO ATTEND SEMINARS The new seminar programme will be taking place across two live stages and will bring business advice, product news, cutting edge trends, and new advancements from the industry delivered by a selection of experts, doctors, beauty therapists and business owners. The programme covers topics from across the industry including nails, make-up, advanced treatments, skincare, business skills, social media, tanning, lasers, new trends and waxing whist the Live Stage will give visitors the chance to learn from the experts behind the brands via live demonstrations. Visit the website for the full agenda and timings: www.professionalbeauty.ie/seminars
The new Warpaint Make-Up Competition and Irish Nail Championships are due to make a welcome return. Sponsored by Beauty Professional Ireland magazine, the competitions are created to give budding make-up artists and nail technicians a platform to boost their career in front of some of the biggest names and brands in the industry.
See how to register, the competition packs and timetables by visiting www.professionalbeauty.ie/compete ONLINE REGISTRATION IS FREE FOR TRADE PROFESSIONALS Professional Beauty Dublin 2013 is free to attend if you register online in advance and €10 if you turn up on the day. New for 2013, visitors have the option to upgrade their tickets with an array of special benefits. For just €10 visitors can upgrade their visit to a PB Plus ticket and benefit from free parking, VIP lounge access, copy of the showguide and complimentary issue of PB magazine and more. Details of how to do this will be available via the online registration form.
Taking place on Sunday and Monday of the show, the Irish Nail Championships will include categories such as Pink & White, Salon Nail, Permanent Polish as well as the popular Showcase Nail Art and Photographic categories – theme this year: • Winter Wonderland The Warpaint Make-Up Competition taking place on Monday 7 October, is open to anybody with a passion for make-up and includes categories:
JOIN THE CONVERSATION: @PRO_BEAUTY
Professional Beauty Dublin is back at the RDS Dublin on 6-7 October. Avoid the €10 entry cost on the door and pre-register online by visiting: www.professionalbeauty.ie quoting lucky code YN4 to be in for a chance to enter a prize draw announced at the show!
PROFESSIONALBEAUTYUK PROBEAUTY PROBEAUTY
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Firstly, think about the atmosphere you create in your salon or spa. Always make your clients feel welcome and relaxed as soon as they walk through the door.
Let’s Talk CUCCIO by Liz Richards, National Salon Sales Manager
D
o you spend time and money every month looking at how to attract new customers to build your business? Maybe you have local advertising with seasonal offers or a discount voucher for all new customers. You could also be a salon or spa offering the latest innovative treatments and products to attract new clientele. Whilst this is very important and great practice, having the right plans in place is the key to ensuring new footfall turns into repeat business. Before joining Cuccio Europe three years ago, I was a salon based therapist. I worked for 8 years within salons, held managerial positions and then owned my own salon for 3 years. Throughout this time, I built up a very loyal clientele and was touched by their emotion when I decided to leave the salon and relocate. So why do I think I had this very loyal clientele? Well, I offered a wide range of professional treatments but on top of that customer care was my top priority and from the moment my clients arrived until they left they had my full attention. Thinking about the full package your salon or spa offers is the key to building a loyal clientele for years to come. Firstly, think about the atmosphere you create in the salon or spa. Always make your clients feel welcome and relaxed as soon as they walk through the door. This will generally be your receptionist’s role, so ensure that they have the same passion for customer care as you do, as employing the wrong person for this role could have implications on the first impression your business creates. I know that not all salons employ a receptionist but if financially possible then I would highly recommend this, it isn’t fare to interrupt a client’s treatment to deal with reception duties, as they pay not only for a service but your time too. Having the correct member of staff on reception will also mean that all incoming calls will be answered and dealt with sufficiently
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and that there will be someone to greet any customers, old or new coming into the salon. Ensure the reception area is always clean and tidy. Use oil burners or candles to create relaxing fragrances and suitable music to create a tranquil atmosphere. Make sure that appropriate language is used when talking amongst yourselves and to your clients, greet them by their name and introduce yourself by name. Offer a wide range of drinks for customers when they are waiting and throughout their treatment. A client consultation should be carried out on the client’s very first visit to the salon. This is really important, it creates an instant level of professionalism and I know there are many technicians out there who forget this vital part of the service. Client consultations don’t only give you all the information you require about whether a treatment can go ahead, but they offer you an insight into your client’s lifestyle too. Use them to make notes about the little things you would like to remember things like how they like there drinks; where they are going on holiday; or when it’s their birthday. A quick look at their card just before they arrive will give you a quick recap. Make your clients feel special when it’s their birthday by giving them a card, discount voucher or a bag of samples. You could use this as an opportunity to thank them for their loyalty. Keep in touch with customers by email or social media to ensure they are the first to know of special offers or new treatments and products. Building a loyalty scheme will also encourage clients to return, building points for certain treatments or products and even for recommending a friend is a good way of doing this. To ensure an increase in revenue, products and other treatments need to be promoted but don’t use the hard sell technique as this can often put clients off returning. Taking these steps to build client loyalty will ensure you build the correct relationship with your clients but don’t ever mistake this relationship for a friendship. It is very easy to over step the mark and become too familiar with clients, I’ve seen this happen and in turn technician’s professionalism and services have slipped. Remember a large percentage of new clients come from existing customer recommendations; ensure they are recommending you for the right reasons. Liz Richards National Sales Manager C.E.S
VEGAS BABY! Me and Me with Abrahimian Noubar, Nubar
Me with Greg Salo and his brother Habib, Young Nails
I
have to admit that the city was magical, but what surprised me the most were the people and how polite and warm they could be. It was nothing like I imagined. All my friends who have been to America would say things like…“typical Americans” or “Those Americans with their ‘I can do anything behavior, I just hate that’, but to be honest, what is wrong with that? I must say that I loved the energy from people and hopefully brought some back to Ireland.
Me with Margaret Lee, Dashing Diva
You always watch those nail icons in the interviews and magazines and think that they have PR people to talk to the press…but no. Zoya Reyzis talked to me for over an hour and we were chatting about our common history, she is Ukranian and I am Polish, so it was very interesting exchanging our views on political matters.
Me with Deborah Carver, Nailpro everyday problems made me think how unappreciative we are sometimes and how we take things for granted.
I was very nervous going to my meetings. Why? As it was the first time I had talked to people who made a huge impact on the nail industry. For example, Rick Slack, who despite his health obstacles spend time with me in a nice atmosphere and gave me all the time I needed. Me with Zoya Reyzis, Zoya The most amazing moment I can remember was a half hour conversation with Deborah Carver, owner of Nailpro magazine. There was nothing more valuable than the few tips on getting the magazine better for my readers she gave me. She is such a sweetheart.
Me with Rick Slack, NSI
Me with Jessica Vartoughian, Jessica Cosmetics
I have to thank Tony Cuccio, whose team was very supportive for me during this trip. Tony showed me that everything can be done if you really want to. Looking at all of those hard working people who created amazing brands and products, but still struggle with
Many thanks to Jessica (Jessica Cosmetics) , Newton Luu ( Le Chat), Tony Cuccio, Debra Carver (Nailpro) , Greg Salo (Young Nails) , Margaret (Dashing Diva), Rick Slack (NSI), Abraham Noubar (Nubar), Zoya Reyzis (Zoya), Michelle Mullen (NAILS Mag), for giving me chance to be part of it.
Me with Newton Luu, Le Chat
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C O MPETITI O N
FASHION WEEK
WINNERS Neringa BabraviciuteShevchenko Ireland
1.
Lenzi Brock USA
Anna Kubicka Scotland
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2.
3.
COMPETITION
Under the
Mistletoe! C
hristmas is the season to be jolly!... and be kissed by a stranger when you end up standing under the mistletoe... so get your reds, greens, whites, silvers or gold, unwrap your creativity and get started!
If you want more presents under the tree, we have something for you this time too. You get a chance to win a one-step Couture gel polish colour pack of 5 and Zoya Colour Lock mini kit from Supernail Ireland.
Deadline 25th October 2013
RULES OF THE COMPETITION 1. D o not share your entry material online before the results of the competition are announced (or any other pictures with the same design). 2. The competition is open to ALL nail technicians that register online through http://yournailsmag.com 3. Only work performed personally by the participant may be submitted. 4. A live model must be used (one or both hands). 5. A ny type of enhancement may be used: acrylic, gel, fiberglass or silk as well as gelpolish. 6. Any type of shape may be used: stiletto, square, almond, pipe, edge, bridge, oval. 7. Top coat, base coat, cuticle oil and gel finish products may be used. 8. All types of nail art may be used (glitters, crystals, acrylic paint). 9. S end a maximum of 4 pictures (of 1 design), JPG format, maximum 2 MB size. 10. A ll pictures need to be of sufficiently good quality for printing.
11. E ach participant is required to include the following information: the title of the work. 12. By submitting your work to the competition you agreeing to the presentation of images on websites, in publications and in other media belonging to the Organizer. 13. T he Organizer has the right to prohibit photos from the competition, without informing the participant. 14. The Organizer is not responsible for entries that have not reached him for reasons beyond his control, including due to failure of internet connections or a participant’s system. 15. The Organizer is not responsible for any false information or third party data provided by the participants.
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LIFTING (Peeling) PRODUCT from the NAIL PLATE
By Izabela Stelmaszyk IMS Nails. Diamond Nails, main distributor Ireland & UK
Nail Experts agree that the durability of the extended nail depends primarily on the proper preparation of natural nails and skillful application and filing of the product (gel, acrylic or other), especially at the transition from the natural nail to the area around the nail cuticles.
T
he level of a nail stylist’s skills shows in the preparation and the finished look of the product around the cuticles. The preparation and purification of the natural nail is extremely important. For this purpose, matt the entire surface of the nail with a file of an average grain size (np.180) paying particular attention to around the nail near the cuticles. It is important to get rid of the cuticles and thoroughly remove the growing film on the nails (epidermal skin perionyx). Leaving even a small part of it on the nail can result in air, moisture and fat getting in, which exacerbates the lifting. After thorough cleansing, use professional nail degreasing products. With clients with hyperhydrosis hands and an oily nail plate use such products twice. The degreasing products are: acidic primer and primer acid-free. After proper preparation of the nail plate, move on to applying the product. Acrylic / Gel cannot be applied too thickly, since it will run off the skin and flood it, which gives you a problem when filing. Too much weight has a tendency to self-bond itself. A thick layer of the product is also very rigid and does not provide the flexibility of the plate. The amount of the product applied around the cuticles area should be minimal, and the distance between the product and the skin should be about + / -0.5 mm (so-called hair line). Such application of the product and proper filing (unnoticeable difference between the natural nail
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plate and the product) also have an impact on the durability of nails and their look after a few weeks of regrowth.
COMMON CAUSES OF THE SEPARATION OF THE PRODUCT FROM THE NAIL PLATE: - Increased moisture of the natural nail plate. - Poor preparation of nail plate. - Inaccurate cleansing of natural nail. - Insufficient grease removal from the nail plate. - Too much primer or none. - Too much or not enough of product in the area around the Eponychium. - Too thick a layer of product. - “Skins spills” and its inaccurate filing. - Too strenuous filing of the excess of the product.
LIFTING OF THE NATURAL NAIL AT THE FREE EDGE FROM THE PRODUCT OR THE TIP: - As the nail grows it is ageing, losing water and fats, and thus changes its physical and chemical properties, losing elasticity, beginning to deform. - Adhesives after a while lose their properties, wash out or crumble. In this case, we are trying to remove part of the lifting nail by filing it, for example, with an e-file we take off the old product and apply the new.
Cracking or flaking of the product: - Too thin a layer of product, especially in the so-called stress point, which is at a distance of approximately 2/3 of the natural nail plate from the mantle. - Nails which are too long and built on a very short bearing with no symmetry, in this case should not exceed ½ the length of the natural plate.
Problems that may arise when applying acrylic: - Yellowing acrylic - the most common problem. The causes of yellowing acrylic are various, but are especially caused by; the use of dark colors of nail polish without a base coat; exposure to chemical agents and smoking; as well as soaking up the sun or even sun beds. Another cause is contaminated liquid, brushes or dishes. In this case, the acrylic is yellowing immediately after application. The yellowing acrylic happens when the primer has contact with liquid. - Odwarstwianie się akrylu przy wale paznokciowym - gdy powietrze pojawia się zaraz po nałożeniu masy lub po dwóch dniach, to z całą pewnością modelistka popełniła jakiś błąd. Przyczyną może być źle zmatowiona płytka paznokciowa, nałożenie masy akrylowej zbyt wysoko i zalanie skórek. Akryl zbyt grubo położony łączy się sam ze sobą, a nie z paznokciem, natomiast zbyt sucha masa spowoduje odwarstwienie się od naturalnego paznokcia,
liable to pay very high interest rates and it can become stressful. I think it’s a good idea, when you have your figures worked out, to decide on a figure you want to always maintain in your bank account. this way you will always stay in a safe zone and have a better credit Lifting acrylic near rating with your bank. Showing a good cash flowcuticle in your bank area: account will not only help your keep focused but it will also help you in the future if you ever want to get a business loan. Having an - When the air comes in right after the amount in your safe zone will help when you hit quieter times in your application offactor the product or two days after, it business too. another thing to in is if you go above that safety is the nail technician’s fault. This may figure, then start certainly to think reinvestment.
be a badly buffed nail plate, applying acrylic
9: reinvestment: when you get a stage in business, too close to skin andtoflooding it. your Acrylic applied
that you have a fund over your safety amount, then start to plan too thickly connects with itself, and not with on reinvestment in your business. You can increase or improve nail plate, overly dry products your business in the many ways andwhile by doing this you will helpwill your causeofdetachment from the natural business grow. think a new machine, a new productnail. or service, a computerised system, redecorating your treatment rooms, advertising, marketing and so on. this can be anything that helps to Cracking of the acrylic: improve what you are already doing. when clients see this input from you, it keeps them and interested too. - It excited is mostly caused by mechanical trauma.
However sometimes it happens when badly
10. Accounts:distributed using a good accountant is vital to keeping your product does not form a C-curve,
finances stable. You need to make sure you understand the jargon making the resistant Keep to dayaccountant’s usewhereby as it is important you nails knownot everything. to-day operations. You should carefulis a records of all your treatments and services. Basicalso bookbe keeping simple task that can byayou and should reduce your not be to done create bead that is toohelp dry,tobecause it accountancy feesforms - but ensure that your accountant you micro-pores, which weakenguides its strength correctly.
and durability.
11. Customer service:
this doesn’t cost you a single cent! Being friendly, helpful and putting a smile on your face is the simplest Problems that may arise when
applying gel:
- Detachment of the gel near the cuticle area. Usually this is the stylist’s mistake, which is caused by inaccurately matting the nail near the cuticles; or excessive application of gels that run onto the skin. In this case, you should carefully matt the surface that was not shiny or file out the gel and apply the gel again finishing with a high-gloss. - Cracking and peeling the gel off the nails happens when the nail plate was poorly cleaned. There might have been remaining dust or there was too thin a layer gel applied. - Poor durability of gel on the natural nails. This problem may occur if single-phase gels are used. You must apply a gel base that can way to give your client a reason to come back to you. Sometimes we connect the nail plate with a heavier layer. take our regular customers for granted so always keep in the back of For the extended nailthey it is deserve your mind that he or the she durability is a payingofcustomer and that also preferred to use a high glossevery finishmonth gel. and the best customer service possible. Seeing a client building a friendship is fine, but remember she doesn’t always On the surface of the natural nail there is a want to hear about your problems! thin layer of fat that protects it from moisture loss andprofessionals the harmful effects of the external 12. retailing: Many within our industry think So remember, they only have toenvironment. perform a treatment and thatbefore that is proceeding their job done. However ifto clients can help benefit from the buying retailwith item gel application; degrease nail aplate such as hand cream, or a cuticle oil, then itprimer). is part of role a special liquid (cleaner, Anyour important as a professional to advise this. aftercare is an essential part of a step is also to matt the nail. We do this by using treatment, so recommending a homecare item, to help improve your whitesales block orincrease a small grain file. service is a must.aretail can your revenue; therefore,
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increasing your business.
13. fear:
- Peeling gel off the plastic tips. If the gel is
Manypeeling business have a FEar of doing something at owners the edges it means that a very thin in case it doesn’t work, but, if you do not try, how will you know? If layer was applied to the skin or too close to the you do something and it does not work then at least you can learn by Sometimes, a few is days after application this and move on.skin. Every step in business a learning curve, so don’t we things. see that it peelswonder off from tip. fear Thisthat drives be afraid to try new I always if itthe is the me or is it that I am fearless? I think I have a bit both. may be dueSometimes to inaccurate preparation ofof the However you feeltips justor gopoor withcuring it - what will be, under thewill UV be! lamp. This
often applies to very long nails, whose ends are poorly cured. During the polymerization process, ask you client to raise the nails slightly upwards (closer to the light bulb). If this problem appears, the product with a i run free business talksremove for mobile technicians file or an e-file in such a way as not to damage and salon owners at Asu nail & beauty supplies the tips and re-apply some new gel, paying / Training. for next dates for these free talks particular attention to the exact cure time in a email me atUV suzanne@asunailandbeauty.ie lamp. Lifting of gel may also be caused byor LiKe our page on facebook - Asu the depletion of the light bulbs.nail & beauty
supplies / Training Academy
The Salon Insurance Specialist GUNN ROBINSON O’HIGGINS LTD INSURANCE BROKERS 19 Priory House, Priory Hall, Stillorgan, Co. Dublin Phone: 01 283 5252 Fax: 01 283 5251 GUNN ROBINSON O’HIGGINS LTD. IS REGULATED BY THE CENTRAL BANK OF IRELAND SCHEME UNDERWRITTEN BY RSA Group, Dublin.
Famous Nail Stylist
CAROLINE CARRICK
My 3 favourite nail colours are:
C
aroline has been part of the beauty industry for 12 years. She runs her own salon, Caroline’s Beauty Room, in Rush, Co. Dublin which she opened in 2003. Then she moved to bigger premises in 2005. Caroline found the recession times hard and closed her salon to re-open in 2010 in Rush. She has been an Astonishing Nails global educator for the past three and a half years. Caroline began competing in nail championships in 2011 at the Irish National Nail Championships winning Acrylic Novice, Permanent Polish and 3rd Place Showcase Nail Art in Dublin and is the current International Manicurist of the Year (London Intl Nail Masters Championships 2013). Her work has been featured in industry publications and prominent beauty blogs. She has recently established her own training academy where she will be offering Astonishing Nails courses.
• A Classic Red, of course. • Glitter should be a colour. • Perfect Match Marilyn Merlot; it’s a fabulous black cherry colour is another classic.
My Favourite nail tool to use: • My brushes. I’m a brush addict, I can’t get enough of them, especially really fine nail art brushes. I’m always looking for the perfect brush. • In second place would be my electric file. Everyone should get educated and use them. It cuts my time in half and I’ve recently been introduced to bits that can be used for the cuticle area so I’m even using it for all my prep now at low speeds and very carefully.
My first set of nails were: • A set of gel extensions on my sister. She has the tiniest nails and I was completely stressed out, they probably took me about 4 hours to do!! Imagine if they’d been any larger, ha ha.
My favourite nail shape is: • I’m loving the almond shape at the moment, it’s so elegant.
My Favourite nail art is: • I love all types of nail art. There are still so many forms that I want to master. I really love one stroke, Russian painting style; 3D acrylic, there is just so much. I can spend hours looking at master artists’ amazing work. • I love seeing technicians at work at any level though; sometimes you can learn something new from a complete beginner or get a new idea from something they are trying.
How is it to win Manicurist of the Year? • Manicurist of the Year has been fantastic. I didn’t expect to 48
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win when I went to London, I mean you definitely hope to take something home but I was completely bowled over by the actual wins. It has been a fantastic boost to the salon. I have had so many new clients who came because they have looked at the awards on the website and feel confident in the service that you provide. The bits of publicity from blogs and industry magazines have been amazing too, especially as an educator, as people want to train with you. I would thoroughly recommend entering competitions to anyone that wants to improve as a nail technician or manicurist. I love the preparation for a competition. I think it’s really important to push yourself outside your comfort zone on as regular a basis as you can manage. It improves your skills and the level of service that you can offer to your clients.
My favourite thing about doing nails is: • The satisfaction of taking a set of nails from the condition that they are presented to you and seeing the finished product and the client’s reaction to them.
If I could choose to train with anyone I want, who would that be? • There is a nail artist called Pisut Masanong from Thailand whose work is just amazing. He creates the most realistic pictures and portraits on nails.
What I have on my nails now is..... • Perfect Match UV polish in Private Escort with 40 Days in Rio from the Carnival Collection over the top. It’s a strong pink colour with an amazing pink glitter polish and lots of bling.
GALLERY
Cliona Sweeney, Ireland
Anne Van Spronsen
Krisztina, Hungary
Megan Doherty,Northern Ireland
Tina Thomas
Nicola Smith, UK
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We miss you every day by Lidia Wrobel, distributor of Trinity Beauty Ireland & UK
I
never got a chance to meet Tom but his legacy and influence on my work and life is significant. We all look up to his work, commitment and passion when he educated hundreds of nail technicians.
Tom passed away 2 years ago, but he stayed in the hearts of every person within this industry. He was a legend, he was a leader followed by thousands of passionate nail techs who wanted to be just as good as him.
product! Do you know the feeling when your brush is too thin that it doesn’t put enough pressure or that it is too big, and you can’t see what you are doing? Well, the Trinity Beauty brush is ideally designed to make your work easy; it is soft, flexible and if maintained well, it will serve you for a good few years. I can’t forget to mention that the forms never detach when working, and fit firmly when
October is a special month, lets think of Tom and that he made this all happen for us. We win competitions, we get famous, we make careers as educators, we share our work, and we make a living out of being nail artists. As you probably know, his legacy continues. From 19th – 23rd July, the most talented people from all over the world gathered to become Trinity Beauty Gurus. The conference was held in Malaysia. Nail technicians from Spain, Germany, Ukraine, Japan, Singapore, Thailand, Taiwan, Indonesia and of course Malaysia spent time learning from the best educators in the world; Viktoriia Klopotova, Susumu Uehara, Pisut Masanoung, Berry Shum, Competition Guru Louis Lim and guru director Erin Eng. All of them are world champions taught by Tom himself. At the conference, Erin revealed all his secrets of the Trinity Beauty Legacy collection by Tom Holcomb, an acrylic system specially designed for people who want to be the best and achieve stunning results. I like to say that using this system is “easy, fast and neat”. Powders have great consistency and precisely adhere to the nail plate. The most important thing is that it doesn’t go yellow. This system is designed for nail competitions, so if you want something that will allow you to work with a smile line and not worry about drying too fast, you have found the perfect
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applying your products. All products are packed in a nice leather chest that you can take with you and impress your clients. To get more information please go to www.beautynailsalon.ie
What’s HNoot t
&What’s
around the world What’s your name? Ami Harris
What’s your name? Mary S.
Where are you from? Grantham, England
Where are you from? Canada
Age? 32
Age? 31
What inspires you to do nails and nail art? I am drawn to neat, pretty well groomed nails and I am inspired by a perfectly matching outfit! I also love getting creative with my clients, they come to me with an idea or an image and together we will re-create the style for their nails. I love the fact that they aren’t permanent; they are a snapshot into someone’s mood for a short period of their lives! How many years have you been working with nails? I have been trained for 15 months, but have been interested in and painting nails since my teens, whether it’s my own or for friends. Which nail stylist inspires you the most? There are so many that I love, but right now Sophie Harris-Greenslade (The Illustrated Nail) and Gemma Lambert (The Nail Team) are my biggest inspiration. They have very different styles, but are both equally amazing. I particularly love Sophie’s intricate and detailed nails that pack a massive nail art punch, but equally Gemma’s perfect one stroke nail art is just amazing! If I can have half of their achievements in nails then I will be a very happy girl indeed! What nail trends are most fashionable in your country this autumn? In my area I get a very definite divide between classic short well groomed pinks, reds and purples, to very punchy stiletto nails with nail art. What is your favourite website for getting ideas? I love instagram, anyone who’s anyone post’s their work on there, so if in doubt I can always flick though the feed to get an idea! What’s on your nails at the moment? Short, square glitter pink Recolution gelpolish! What’s your must-have product right now? LCN’s Recolution Gel-polish, it’s my fail safe, quick, easy to apply and available in such a wide range of colours.
What inspires you to do nails and nail art? The impetus behind me wanting to paint my nails, come up with quirky nail art, and blog about it on SwatchAndLearn. com was a combination of several things: challenging nail traditions, staying creative, wanting to sport manicures with singular style, and encouraging others to dream up designs and turn their visions into realities! How many years have you been working with nails? I’ve been painting my own nails since elementary school, but it was only until I began blogging in 2010 (sharing reviews and swatches) that I started painting my nails more frequently each week. Which nail stylist inspires you the most? I wouldn’t be able to name just one because every nail-polish enthusiast (or ‘nailphile’ as I like to say) is a major source of inspiration. Passion inspires me, especially when it’s driven by happiness rather than goals to achieve perfection. What nail trends are most fashionable in your country this autumn? A lot of people are continuing to embrace the texturednail trend. It’s one of the most exciting nail trends in a long time, and I’m digging it like a shovel! Not only do the textured polishes dry extremely fast, but the harmony of matte and glitter combine for a match made in nail heaven! What is your favourite website for getting ideas? Since I’m a big advocate of accessible beauty, I really enjoy Beautylish. com because it’s an inviting community where beauty lovers of any age, background, and experience can come together and communicate their passion on an equal playing field. This website bridges the gap between the industry professional and the savvy consumer. What’s your must-have product right now? The Seche Vite Dry Fast Top Coat has been my holy-grail product for years because it’s the Usain Bolt of top coats – it dries a manicure rock hard in record time. I wouldn’t paint my nails as often as I do if I didn’t discover it! Blog: www.swatchandlearn.com Twitter: @SwatchAndLearn Facebook: Swatch And Learn Instagram: @SwatchAndLearn
What’s your name? Ria Lopez a.k.a RiaNailz Where are you from? Brooklyn, New York Age? 25 What inspires you to do nails and nail art? To me doing nail art is a way to put all my ideas on these tiny canvases that are nails. I love that each client leaves with a piece of me and my art isn’t just hanging on a wall in someone’s apartment or gallery but taking a trip through the whole city. Everyone gets to see my art and that is what inspires me to do nail art. How many years have you been working with nails? I’ve been doing nails professionally now for about 5 years. Which nail stylist inspires you the most? I can’t say I have one specific nail artist that inspires me. A lot of my fellow nail art friends which I’ve come to know thru my line of work are all inspiring to me. What nail trends are most fashionable in your country this autumn? To be honest I’m not really up on what’s in at the moment. I base my designs off things I see painted on walls, clothes, textiles, music, but most importantly my clients style or what they have in mind. What is your favourite website for getting ideas? I don’t have a website that I get ideas from but I do really like getting ideas from Japanese Magazines. What’s on your nails at the moment? At the moment my nails are a Silver Holo polish from Color Club with neon green and neon coral. On top of those colors I have black swirls, lines, and on my ring and index fingers I have multicolored gems, and studs. What’s your must-have product right now? My must have product now and forever are nail stripers. If I didn’t have stripers I would not be able to create nail art. Blog: Rianailz.tumblr.com Twitter: RiaNailz Facebook: RiaNailz Instagram: @Rianailz Email: Rianailzgreenpoint@gmail.com
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“ We are still standing, and you haven’t seen the best of us yet!”
L
aunched 3 years ago, Nail Gaga is really making its mark as one of the leading brands within the nail industry. This vibrant UK brand is owned and was created by Erin and her husband Ali back in 2010.
“We wanted to create a brand that could produce outstanding results, yet be competitive on pricing, with no compromise.” says Erin. She is a salon owner with over 12 years industry experience and a multicompetition winner who recognizes firsthand the requirements a nail tech has these days. Her salon is where most of the testing for Nail Gaga begins. An exciting point where new products are born. It has not been easy keeping up with the ever changing nail market, but says
“we are still standing, and you haven’t seen the best of us yet!” 2013 has been a great year so far for Nail Gaga with more competition wins. They not only took on their first team of educators, but were also finalists earlier this year at the Scratch Stars Awards for Best Customer Care & Best Education and Training - a truly magnificent achievement by any standards.
“2014 is going to be an even more exciting year for Nail Gaga.” says Erin. They plan to really drive the brand forward, and have lots in store for the upcoming year. The company will
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continue to grow from strength to strength as next year they focus on distribution and training, with new centers opening hopefully in Scotland and Ireland! They will also be moving their head office to allow customers and students to shop and train all under one roof and there are plans to offer free demo-days across the UK, Scotland and Ireland. With new product innovations on the horizon, and plans to build on education, the future is bright for Nail Gaga.
“Exhibitions are a great way for us to meet our customers, and the next place you’ll find us is at Pro Beauty’s show in Manchester this October.” There they will be showcasing a line of competition winning products, from gel and acrylic to the ever-popular Gelore gel polish. As a small growing brand, with BIG future plans, Erin knows it would not be possible to juggle everything without the support of Ali.
“We really are the duo driving force behind Nail Gaga, and with the backing of our fab educators who are spreading the NG love, this once very little fish in a big pond is suddenly getting much bigger!!!” Erin Adeyemo Nail Gaga Director/Educator
Fashion
inspired by
nail art!
way and getting How about going the opposite inspired by nail the designers to create fashion asked Atiya La art? Well, it happened. We have igns based on nail Quay to sketch few clothes des k it’s a great fun! art that was sent to us. We thin Nail Designs by: , BaZana, Oksana Kovale, Neringa Skirgailiene Aleksandra Zacharova N O.8 (4 / 20 1 3)
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How to Choose an Electric File Gone is the stigma of electric filing. Professional nail technicians have used electric files for many years and in the hands of a trained professional, electric filing is very safe. I firmly believe that every nail tech should have an electric file on their table to enhance their work, no matter how much you use it. Some old school techs still believe hand filing is safer and faster, it is not necessarily true. Electric filing is just as safe when you are properly trained and can actually be faster once you have perfected your skill. The added benefit of less hand filing can also play a part in the wear and tear of your hands and preventing carpel tunnel as well.
Before you commit to purchasing an electric file you must also commit to the proper training in what to look for, features and benefits, care and of course sanitation. Although electric files can speed up certain processes their real advantage is that they can do what some hand files cannot, they can do finishing work faster and cut backfills with precision. They are also becoming an important tool at the pedicure station as well. Take your time comparison-shopping for an electric file and understand their features and benefits prior to purchase. Find an electric file that fits you comfortably and make sure it has adequate power. Something you may not find in a cheap model. Electric files come with many options such as foot pedals, spa units, portable and tabletop units, new touch button technology along with a variety of price ranges and RPM’s.
SAFETY Practicing and getting comfortable with your Efile is going to take a while. First you need to get over your fear of hurting someone so practice on yourself first or use a tip on a dowel that simulates a finger and practice on that. Feeling the pressure and cutting power is important to know and understand before you use it on a client. The Fulcrum finger is critical to use for control. We use the fulcrum finger when polishing and all nail applications to balance our hands so incorporate that into your technique. Sit straight in your chair with your feet
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flat to the floor. Hold the handpiece like you would a large marker or pen and rest your forearms on the edge of the table. Take your client’s hand in yours and use the fulcrum finger to balance. Balancing takes the pressure off the bit and gives you more control. With the machine off practice your angles then turn it on with a very low rpm and continue to practice. For cuticle work I highly recommend a cone or tapered shaped bit with a rounded safety top. Never use a flat barrel bit or a sanding band at the cuticle as it can cause rings of fire. (Indentation in the natural nail plate which are cuticle shaped). You may not realize it at the time but they will be apparent when your client returns for the fill or rebalance weeks later.
SANTIATION Disinfecting your bits is just as mandatory as disinfecting your implements in providing a safe Efile service and often, this step gets ignored. With each and every client your bits should be washed and disinfected plus you should never leave a dirty bit in the handpiece when the service is complete.
BITS There are many shapes, sizes and styles of bits, all of which can be used for Efiling based on preference. Sanding bands or Arbor bands are one use only because they are made of paper just like a traditional file. All others are Disinfectable and can be used over and over. Diamond bits are stainless steel bits with the diamond
VICKI PETERS
Master Nail Technician Email: Vicki@vickipeters.com www.vickipeters.com
grit impregnated on the surface and file the nail like a traditional file when pressure is applied. Carbides or Swiss Carbides are made of carbide metal shanks with flutes cut into them and shave the surface of the nails. They need less pressure and can often be used in both directions, however the right flute is always deeper than the left. Some newer style carbides have equal flutes and cut in both directions for the left-handed techs that work in reverse. Bit lifespan depends on the quality of the bit, how much it is used and what kind of products it is used on such as acrylic or gel. When the bit looses its cutting power it’s time for a new one.
There are two major things I suggest when someone is considering purchasing an electric file:
NEED & PRICE How often do you plan on using the EFile? If your needs are minimal you may consider a less expensive, lower end machine. Consider the amount of vibration in the handpiece, keeping in mind the better quality machines will have less vibration in the handpieces. Always purchase your electric file from a professional nail manufacturer that supports the industry with education, technical support and warranties. Although most electric files are fairly low maintenance it is important to take care of it with routine maintenance so you protect your investment.
SHOP & COMPARE Do some comparison-shopping and see where the better values are. Do not purchase Efiles from China, as they may be knockoffs that cannot be repaired or returned. Make sure you compare all the features and benefits, weight and comfort of the handpiece and definitely turn them on, insert a bit and feel the handpiece’s vibration at maximum rpm’s. Ask other techs for their recommendations look into warranties, repair programs and return policies. Remember the more money you spend the better the machine, the less vibration and longer lifespan.
Hold the handpiece securely and balance your hands with the fulcrum finger as you use the proper angles for refining all areas of the nail.
1. Place the bit on the end of the nail using the bottom of the bit.
Magic Dorota Palicka, UK
Calla
2. Place bit flat in the center of the nail. 3. Place the bit at the top of the nail, near, not on the cuticle area with the top half of the bit. 4. Use a rounded topped tapered safety bit to refine the product at the cuticle. Keep bit as flat to the nail as you can and bevel the product flush without touching the natural nail.
1. Prepare nails for extensions. Apply in stilettos shape and extend nail bed with pink gel. Build the base with crystal clear builder gel. Pinch nails with pinching clamps for nice c curve and extra strength. Apply a pink cover gel to extend the nail beds.
3.Apply clear gel. File to the desired shape. With green acrylic paints draw calla flowers using one stroke method.
5. Use a slim cone at cuticle as another option. 6. Hold the bit securely at a 90 degree angle to shorten the nail.
7. At a slight angle with the bit or sanding band refine the underside of the nail.
2. Using angular brush and black thin gel create deep smile line.
4. With red and yellow paint create a centre of the flower. Add leaves and flower buds for more detail detailed effect. Finish the details of the flowers and leaves using nail art brush #0000 and white acrylic paint. Apply nocleanse top seal.
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Bootie Babe Ground Round
Trick or Treat
SwatchAndLearn Snake Nail Art
Nail Gaga Gel Polish
Vinylu
x Overt ly Ony
x
There is no holiday that inspires the nail art world like Halloween . Whether it’s small renderings of horror movie villains, zombie claws painted nails, or a 3D nail art, there’s plenty of spooky Halloween nail art available now.
Zoya Yound Nails Gold
Yound Nails Bronze Bio Sculpture
NSI Witches & Spiders
Minx Mix
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Young Nails
Imagination Art Pigments Bronze, 7g www.youngnails.ie
Young Nails va Maria Jurano
Karolina Boczek
Imagination Art Pigments Gold, 7g www.youngnails.ie
Bootie Babe
Ground Round 15ml
Zoya Mini
Pippa 7.5 ml www.supernailireland.com
Nail Artists NG Glitter Orange
Koi Powder Collection Orangered Liro 6g (041) 980 2694
Jessica Fall 754
Nail Artists
Koi Powder Collection Yellow Magoi 6g (041) 980 2694
Jessica Fall 752
Nail and Beauty Systems
win
h allow een g oodie bag!
Faceook page or go to our Find Halloween survey on our ply answer few questions website to Survey section. Sim some of the products you and you will get a chance to win see on this page.
3D Nail Sticker – Spiders www.nailandbeauty.ie
Nail and Beauty Systems 3D Nail Sticker – Witches www.nailandbeauty.ie
Jessica
Fall 752 Shadow www.frenchcosmetics.ie
Jessica
Fall 754 Shadow www.frenchcosmetics.ie
Minx – Sweet Squared Ireland
Halloween Mix 01 408 91 91
Vinylux – Sweet Squared Decadence 01 408 91 91
Vinylux – Sweet Squared Overtly Onyx 01 408 91 91
Bio Sculpture
Orange, White, Black www.biosculptureireland.com
Nail Gaga
ronsen
Ann Van Sp
Little Black Dress
Justine Head Ann Van Spronsen
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This season it’s all about the brows. Think Cara Delevingne’s strong tomboy brow or Cindy Crawford before her in the 90s and you’ve got it. Gone are the days of overly thin pencilled on brows, now it’s all about bold, natural brows. Red was a big feature on the fashion catwalks and the trend continues into the beauty realm with wine lips being a key look this season, matched with a ghostly pale complexion; think light, natural BB creams as opposed to overly heavy foundations. There’s also an emphasis on highlighting natural features, be it cheekbones, eyes or lips. This doesn’t mean no makeup as such, but instead a whole heap of subtle beauty tricks to enhance the natural features and work what you’ve got. Gothic is another key look, so think hot red, wine stained lips with a Twilight style pallor and you’re there. Punky black lined eyes are also going to be big, as are black nails with a hot contrasting shade. Deep burgundy, oxblood and dark berry shades were seen on the catwalks of the likes of Burberry, Zac Posen and Tibi, so channel the look by going for nail colours with rich vampy reds and dark burgundy’s with lots of shimmer.
Brows
To get those uber on trend brows as mentioned above, try L’Oreal Paris’ new Super Liner Brow Artist pencil €9.45 It’s the first brow pencil from L’Oréal that combines both shading and sculpting. It’s a clever 3-in-1 job with a Soft Colour Pencil on one end, a Clear Fixing Wax on the other and an eyebrow brush on the lid! It’s a must have.
AUTUMN WINTER BEAUTY Skin
The trend for natural looking skin means for many of us that we need to work on the prep. If you can get away with a bare face then thank your lucky stars and work it to the max. For the rest of us, a good primer is essential. Benefit’s new Stay Flawless 15 Hour Primer €35.50 helps keep foundation looking fresh for hours. Plus it’s in a really handy stick formula which means it’s a cinch to apply. Follow it with something light like Maybelline Fit ME Anti Shine Stick €13.79, apply minimally with a sponge to get that barely there look. If your skin is looking a little grey, dull and tired for the natural look then get it prepped and back in synch with Chanel’s new Skincare Synchronisation system – Le Jour, La Nuit and Le Weekend. Three separate delicious creams, one for the day, one for the night and one for weekend use. It aims to get skin back into its natural rhythm and harmony and have it looking refreshed in just a few week. The kit will set you back €220, pricey but a real skincare gem.
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Lips
Don’t you just love the new season beauty launches? Yes it might be a wee bit depressing that Autumn/Winter is on the way, but on the upside think of all the fab new nail colours, eye shadows, foundations, skincare products and general beauty-tastic goodies that are on the way to the shop shelves! It’s enough to get a beauty junkie very giddy indeed! By Niamh O’Reilly
To get the on trend wine-tainted lip look, check out Benefit’s new hydra-smooth lip colour €22, which has typically fab packaging, but what’s inside is pretty awesome too. A really richly moisturising formula, with Shea, mango and vitamin E there are three levels of coverage; sheer, medium and medium full depending on how deep you want your colour to be. Dare Me and Air Kiss are two good ones to try. The Body Shop are another brand who have their beauty finger right on the rich colour trend with their new Colour Crush Lipsticks and at €12.95 they won’t break the bank. With 24 brilliant shades on offer you can channel the catwalk look in a flash, plus they are 100% cruelty free and 100% vegetarian. Look out for Red Siren and Raspberry Kiss. Musician turned fashion designer Myleene Klass has now turned her had to beauty with her first makeup range for Littlewoods. Super chic packaging makes it a real piece of eye candy and the lipstick collection is right on the money with three shades of sexy red to choose from. At €20 it’s a little pricey but with its black and gold packaging looks very premium indeed. Chanel of course are famous for their fab lip colours and their raspberry pallet Rouge Coco Shine from the autumn/winter collection is stunning. Try the rich tones of Epsrit €34 for a total beauty statement.
Nails
And so to our favourite bit, the nails! If you want to play it dark and mysterious and channel the ‘black is back’ trend then check out Sally Hansen’s Complete Salon Manicure Midnight in NY which, just like its name is full of dark tones with a hint of sparkle, just like the famous city’s nigh time skyline. €8.95
ASK YOUR
NAIL EXPERT
Speaking of glitzy, if you’re a fan of the famous bling loving Kardashian Sisters then you’ll be happy to hear that cloud10beauty.com are stocking the range including the nail lacquers. The Sunrise shade from their Cabana Glow Limited Edition Collection gives a long wearing, ultra glossy & chip resistant finish in an on trend colour. €9.95
E POP TH ION T S E U Q esigns your d
for secret nd perfect? r u o y a s What i e so precise st to b il Styli tic a N y t i edan lebr ht - Ce I am totally p actly g i L h a . ex Le really .. I get things rry my e l p im l o til It’s s ’t stop lways w h so don ant them. I a ugh so I pus o w how I n’t good en blessing and work is f hard. It’s a ! mysel a curse
For something alittle different, go for a fab on trend contrast and chose a deep black like NYC’s Nail Art Polish in Black Art and set it against the hot pink tones of Pinkasso. Guaranteed to get your talons noticed, these bargain tastic shades from NYC are only €1.99 Monochrome is another trend that has not gone away and if you hate the thoughts of kitting out your wardrobe in black and white, why not channel the trend with your nails instead for a super chic look. Don’t just go for alternative nails though, instead why not do some contrasting tips. Try an outline manicure using Maybelline’s New York Colour Show in Winter Baby €4.55 as your base, then outline in Blackout, also €4.55. Use a fine nail art brush to get it flawless. Finally, take the red trend to your nails with OPI’s First Date At Golden Gate from their San Francisco Collection from Hennessy Hair & Beauty Ltd, €14.50. The deep oxblood tones of Seche’s Bella €12.99, is one that will be super versatile this season and a great way to set off black or grey in your wardrobe. It’s available from beautyfeatures.ie Finally, the classic red tones of Butter London’s Old Bilghty is another must for lovers of red this season. €15 they are now available at Hession Hairdressing.
O
ne of my clients came back for their next apt and said their gel polish peeled after a week or chipped on a couple of nails. I have asked the client how this has happened and she said it just peeled, which I think is unusual. This particular client has horrible short, bitten, flat nails. I have clients with nice nails and it lasts. I am not sure what my answer should be, don’t want my client to feel let down or I am doing a bad job. The polish is only as good as the nail it’s going on. So maybe the nails were very weak and bitten? This is the main cause of gel polish peeling off itself. If it happens again, put a thin layer of clear gel first, buff it and then your gel polish as usual. Remember about sealing the edges as this might cause the lifting.
C
an I proceed with any of the treatment if my client has a verruca or wart?
If you are not sure what it is, simply refer your client to the doctor. Any viral infection should be diagnosed by a nail technician. If the client says it’s nothing, but you still feel that this is a verruca, you can nicely say that you will not proceed because of the health and safety regulations. Do not feel that you have to do this if you don’t want to.
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Dorota Palicka, UK
Sleeping BEAUTY
1. Prep the nails. Fit the
form under the nail and apply clear gel to extend the nail ( cure 2 mins), follow with pink gel to cover the nail bed (Cure 2 mins). Then using different colour gels draw the lines and cure 2 mins.
3.
Apply thin layer of clear gel. Tap it with green glitter.
5. Buff and shape.
7.
Mix yellow and dark brown to draw additional leaves.
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2.
On the sticky layer apply gold and dark foil. Cure 2 mins.
4.
Cover the nails with clear gel. Cure 2 mins.
6.
With light green and red acrylic paint, create flowers. Add some yellow tones to create side leaves.
8.
Finish with adding red dots to create a look of mountain ash.
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New Pigments Powder Collection www.youngnails.ie N O.8 (4 / 20 1 3)
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Live your dream! by Ela Loszczyk
Astonishing Nails Master Educator UK and Scottish Nail Champion
M
y name is Ela Loszczyk and I’m an educator, judge, many times competition winner and most importantly a nail tech. I teach and help my students to make the most of their potential so they can be successful and inspired to fully develop their passion. I’ve been a nail tech for over 7 years now. I finished my first course in September 2005; I was very excited when I booked this course , it was two weeks, all included – what else could I ask for? My course wasn’t really that good, but it started a beautiful dream; I decided that if I ever became an educator, I would do my best to teach my students, so they wouldn’t feel the way I felt. The idea and desire was born. From that minute, I knew exactly what I wanted to do in my life even though I had just started. I came to Edinburgh with my husband in 2006. We both started working as support workers for people with learning difficulties. It paid our bills but it wasn’t what I wanted to do. As I was in a new country and didn’t have many friends I used to practice on my husband who was my only model! We spent many evenings on product application and removal. I remember one night, when I was 8 months pregnant and was practicing P&W on Lukasz. I applied 5 nails, then suddenly felt a pain and thought I’m in labour, but it was a false alarm. When I looked at my husband, he was biting the acrylic off saying, “You don’t expect me to go to the hospital with these nails do you?”
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The point of the story is that instead of going out I preferred spending time at home practicing product application and getting better at what I really wanted to give my future clients the best service and experience possible. I was totally hooked on nails and it became my real passion. I really wanted to attend a workshop in Poland. Once my daughter was 4 months old and I was breast feeding and I couldn’t go to Poland because she completely refused to take a bottle and leaving hungry baby for three days wasn’t an option. However, my desire to go was so strong that I took my daughter and my mother who also lives in the UK. She stayed with Julia in the hotel room so I was able to attend the workshop and only missed a bit of it, whenever I had to go upstairs to feed her. I did all that because of my passion for nails and my hunger for becoming a better nail tech. Several months later, I rented a place in a hairdressing salon but only three months after that I decided to open my own shop to do things my own way and be my own boss. My salon quickly became known as a professional and unique place as every client is treated like a VIP and we always give a customized service. In 2009, I decided to take part in a Scottish Beauty competition to try out my skills and learn, so I could serve my clients even better. I remember my educator from my second foundation course. She told me, “Ela stick to the nail art, because you are good at it, forget about P&W as you’re rubbish” I listened to her, and stayed focused on nail art for
a while, but my clients constantly wanted P&W. I was doing several sets of P&W a day every day. One day though “one more and I’m going to be sick.” As soon as I said that I started looking at P&W from a
different view. I saw the real beauty of it, how beautiful the French can be when it’s done the way it should be. I fell in love with the perfectly filed shape, crispy smile line, C-curves and arches which I saw and the more beautiful P&W’s I saw, the more I wanted to be able to do them. The problem was I couldn’t get the perfect shape and smile lines without further training. So I did research and I found Joanna Nawrock, a Polish nail tech, who has won competitions many times and who I knew would give me good tips and training. I flew to Poland for several days and started my preparations for the competition. I practiced every week for two months and when the day came and the results, I was the happiest person ever as was places as Top in Tech Sculpt and second in Salon Nail Art! WOW! My first ever competition and I was placed! My second competition was in Poland several months later. I was placed 3rd out of 22, beating so many other nail techs that were very successful already. My mentor at that time, Joanna, was second. That moment showed me again, that if you really desire something and you are ready to work hard to get it, you can get it, you really can and it doesn’t matter how long you have been a nail tech. Then came the year 2010 and the Professional Beauty competition and along with it my title of UK Nail Champion 2010! Than was insane! Of all the many trainings that I’ve done, the one in Holland was really the most inspirational for me because I met David Fowler there. He inspired me with his way of teaching and new techniques so early in 2011 I flew with my model to Dusseldorf for 1 to 1 training with David. I learnt completely new techniques which I would practice before competitions in London and Scotland 2011. And again both competitions were very successful for me. Even though my last competition entry was in 2011 I have never stopped learning. I attended at least 5 trainings a year, learning new things and improving my skills. We have this pleasure to work in an amazing
industry which is changing all the time. The “old world” where white tip was a WOW doesn’t work any more and it’s not enough and if you want to keep up and stay up to date, you need to learn! I also became a judge in UK competitions and coach for my students helping them to do their best. By biggest pride are my 3 of my students who I coached. They finished gel foundation courses with me and five weeks later they entered their first competition, The Scottish Beauty. In 22 entries Heather was 8th, Karolina 3rd and Pamela 1st! I was the proudest educator ever! My other student was first in the Salon Speed category. In 2012, I was a finalist in Scratch Stars as Acrylic Tech of the Year and winner of Gel Tech of the Year. I couldn’t attend the award ceremony as earlier that week my beautiful baby boy was born :). However this year it was possible, as I am a finalist in Scratch Stars again in the Nail Stylist category and won the title of Acrylic Tech of the Year, which I’m very proud of as I absolutely love acrylic systems and I love my P&W. I also went to Holland for another competition, training with Elena Popova, a fantastic nail tech and educator, winner of many competitions, coach and judge from Russia. She brought new tricks and techniques to the table, which I’m going to use during the Nailipics this year, as taking part and doing well in this competition is my goal. I hope my story shows you that if you have a real desire, passion and you are prepared to fight for it then you can achieve it! The best thing about this is that it is never too late. There is always a good time to turn things around. If you ever wanted to compete or learn something new then do it! You need to keep learning, attending courses and staying up to date with trends; you have to, if you are really passionate about what you do. If you know someone, you want to be trained by, then go and do it. There is no such thing as too far, not in the 21st century. I know because I travel to other countries for training as I know I can learn
something valuable from that specific person. Someone asked me once, “doesn’t it cost you a fortune to go abroad?” and I said, “yes it does but I would rather not eat for a week, than miss it!” Ok, maybe a week would be too long but I had it planned in advance. I have an empty coffee jar in my salon, where I put all my tips and a percentage from my salary. This jar is for my training and competitions; it makes my dreams come true. Think of what you want to do and achieve it and plan it! Don’t make excuses, like kids… I’ve got kids as well and I still do what I love, because my job is my desire, part of my life and my career. There is one of many things you also need, the support of your family. I’m blessed because my family is proud of me and my biggest support comes from my dearest husband.
Find out what you desire and go for it! There’s no stopping you. Just believe you really can! If you feel inspired, then here are 4 things I’d like you to do:
1. Take your time to realise
what do you desire as a nail technician? This answer will be the most important answer you give to yourself.
2. Once you know then do
research. Find someone who already achieved that and ask them to mentor you.
3. Stay focused on your dream and take action daily. Work hard, do whatever it takes, forget about all excuses you may make to yourself.
4. Share your passion with
others so you can inspire them to follow their dreams!
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Zsuzanna Varga, UK
e c n e c o n In 1.
Push the eponychium back using your pusher and then remove any cuticle from the nail plate. Ensure that all cuticles are removed to help prevent any lifting of the product. File the natural nail to the desired length with 180 grid file and buff the surface of the nail using a white block. Remove all dust, dirt from the surface of the nail and apply nail prep / dehydrator to the nails. Apply the base gel thinly to the nail and cure in the UV lamp for 2 mins.
3.
Apply your top gel ensuring you cover the entire nail. Before you cure your top gel, sprinkle some glitter and flitter onto the nail in different colours. Cure for 2 mins.
2.
Apply the colour thinly on the nail and cure for 2 mins. Then apply a second coat of your colour the same way as the first
4.
Apply another coat of your top gel on the nail and cure.
5.
Using a cleanser and a lint free wipe, wipe the dispersion layer off the nails to reveal a nice glossy finish. Then apply cuticle oil to finish.
N O.8 (4 / 20 1 3)
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