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Morning Delight

CONTENTS FEBRUARY 2016

COVER LOOK: Sponsored by Estetik Photography: Monika Grabowska

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MAGAZINE DISTRIBUTORS UK Gemma Lambert The Nail Team

FROM THE EXPERTS 22 24 34 44 60 68 70 71 73 76

EXPERT ADVICE - Gemma Lambert FROM THE FOOT EXPERT - Irina Ivanova WOMEN IN BUSINESS - Sinead Mydat PRICING - BEGINNER TO PROFESSIONAL ASK YOUR NAIL EXPERT - Doug Schoon WHAT’S WRONG WITH BEING CONFIDENT NAIL PEEPS Q & A PHOTOSHOPPED IMAGES CASE STUDY by Karolina Boczek 7 REASONS WHY YOUR CUSTOMERS MAY LEAVE

ABOUT 10 47 48 62 63

FAN BOARD NAIL TALK - Jose Alcaide RACHEL’S NAILS - Rachel Cullen MY STORY - Marieclaire Rogers JAMAICAN DREAM - Renee Hogan

TRENDING 32 35 54 56

NAIL TRENDS FROM AROUND THE WORLD - Jodie Edwards COVER STORY by Karolina Boczek TREND FORECAST BY NAIL ICONS BIG HITS OF 2015

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Newstand.co.uk www.newstand.co.uk Cherylea Hammer Australian Distributor Mobile: 0410-600-341 wickednails1@gmail.com cherylea.hammer Ireland Easons Ireland & Easons Northern Ireland Find a full list on our website www.yournailsmag.com/ distribution YourNails magazine is also available through some product suppliers. Ask your local supplier for details.

www.nailandbeauty.ie www.shop.diamondnails.ie Available directly from: Catherine Nail Collection, Clonmel NSI Hair Nail and Beauty, Dublin Crystal Nails, Dublin FREE copies available for students in most colleges. Ask your educator for details. Discontinued copies available on Apple devices for purchase This Ad index is provided as a courtesy to YOUR NAILS advertisers. The publisher assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions

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Contents

71 32

NEWS 14 WHAT’S UP...in the news 18 TALONS ‘N SALONS NETWORKING EVENTS 65 YOUR NAILS NAIL ARTIST OF THE YEAR 2015

PRODUCTS SPOTLIGHT 31 NEW PRODUCTS 38 LOVE IS ALL AROUND 41 READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS RESULTS 55 EDITOR’S CHOICE

STEP BY STEPS 12 GREEN STATEMENT by Ilona Konsek 21 ART VANDALS 23 SILVER WARRIOR by Edit Gutpinter 26 SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL by Karolina Boczek 40 FOOTPRINT OF SPRING by Alexandra Snobl 57 PROOF OF LOVE by Agness Lassa 73 CASE STUDY

PHOTO GALLERIES

ADVERTISERS DIRECTORY BIOSCULPTURE...................... 9 www. CRYSTAL NAILS................16,17 www.crystalnailsireland.com ESTETIK...................................40 Busch and Baehr www.estetik.ie EXCELLENT NAILS.................11 www.excellentnails.ie SWEET SQUARED....................7 CND Shellac Morrocan Tan Lecente www.sweetsquared.com

50 YOUR NAILS GALLERY

COMPETITIONS 69 PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION

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ESTETIK..................1, 35, 36, 37 Busch and Baehr www.estetik.ie PROVOC....................15, 58, 59

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Step by Step

Statement

Ilona Konsek NSI Educator

1. Build the nails with pink cover gel. Shape it into desired shape, file and buff.

2. Paint few nails full in green colour gel polish and few only paint the tip. Cure. 3. Apply top coat to all of them and cure.

4. Wipe the residue. Full covered nails buff them first. Using white gel polish draw designs on the nails of your choice. Cure. Sprinkle some very fine glitter to the cured white gel polish. Dust off the excess. Cure. You can also use white acrylic. On the other nails draw swirls with black foil gel. Cure. 5. Press gold foil against black design. 6. Apply top coat to the half painted nails only.

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from the Editor

Email me! Tell us what you think of our magazine and we will print it in the next issue!

YOU TELL US ... s you want

... we listen and make the change s of your clients Once you understand the need might be very This ul. essf succ you will be very always know tricky as some customers don’t to point them what they want and we often need a two main types in the right direction. There are e interested in a of customer - those who are mor e interested mor cheap price, and the others are ium to med y happ a find d coul in quality. If we e us mak ld wou satisfy both types I think this le. financially stab need to prove Selling service is not easy as you as there are easy the quality and worth. It is not advertising ns nicia tech nail r othe thousands of it works the like s through social media. This look ne number pho a ide prov ’t don you best as most of er. seng mes and only communicate through with icate mun com to se choo you Whatever way Facebook, make your client whether by phone or able to reply sure you are always reachable and your reply may straight away. Clients waiting for popped up then contact another nail tech who else gets the on the page and then someone business. customers and In this issue I wanted to focus on have been you how to handle them. Many of ts or how to clien tic lema prob d avoi asking how to le but I am simp are avoid no-shows. The answers especially e, plac in put to easy not is aware that it if you are just starting. have work so we Without customers we wouldn’t yone coming ever ect resp to how need to learn the best with into our salon and treat them rs are not ome cust the if And can. manners we how to stand behaving nicely we need to learn er problems up and resolve issues without furth value our work or damage to our business. We rs don’t. This is and sometimes get upset if othe

essed by you the most common problem addr client asked ‘My ple on various blogs for exam be charged to t wan ’t didn and art nail y for craz doing this be ’t won and more but I value myself rtant and the impo very are s issue e Thes ’ for free. ate your clients most important thing is to educ hing yourself to teac been have you way e the sam understand your value. customers and If you come across many difficult you are probably them with deal to hard it you find or you are on mati infor not giving them enough can read you 44 page On . them g losin afraid of ge char and fear that e about how to overcom s. dard stan your to according in the magazine I hope you like the few changes you to take part for love ld for this year and I wou ld love to show wou I as e azin mag this ting in crea other and each ort supp how important it is to many things to so have We . work your off show enough to say but we are not always confident me, we love ve Belie . lved invo get and ard step forw to hear your story.

Karolina Boczek, Editor

mag.com

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News

news e h t n i ... SWEET SQUARED IRELAND WELCOMES NEW TEAM MEMBER Sweet Squared Ireland is thrilled to introduce their newest Customer Care team member, Dani Douglas! Dani began working in the beauty industry in 2011 and has since specialised in customer care, making her the perfect addition to Sweet Squared’s Dublin office.

NEW CND SPA RANGE

“Through working at Sweet Squared I am able to combine my two passions, beauty and customer care! I am intrigued by the way the beauty industry is lead by new trends and product developments with Sweet Squared and their brands are at the forefront of this. I am currently studying beauty therapy and I look forward to putting what I have learned to use when helping our customers.” - Dani Douglas, Sweet Squared Customer Care.

Part of the CND Spa Range, these two brand new lines consist of two key ranges, Gardenia Woods™ and Bright Citron™. CND™ SPA have taken Cucumber Heel Therapy™ and brought it into 2016 with a new look and a new Hero Partner, creating a sole-ful journey of soothing hydration. These restorative foot spa-treatments relieve dryness with natural-refreshing cucumber and AHA’s which smooth rough edges while the intensive moisturising complex hydrates heels.

MAGNETIC IRELAND NOW OPEN IN DUBLIN

NEW NAIL CORRECTION TECHNIQUES WITH ESTETIK

On 6th December 2015, in Swords, Co.Dublin the official opening took place of a branch of the well known Magnetic Nail Design. During the event, participants learned about the new Magnetic products, including Seal & Protect and Natural look for gels and acrylics and there was a show of the very interesting method of decorating nails, based on Zentangle designs. The new method is an easy-to-learn, relaxing, and fun way to create beautiful images by drawing structured patterns. The event ended with a festive cake and certificates.

Irina Ivanova of Estetik Ltd is back from St. Petersburg, Russia, where she underwent advanced training in nail correction techniques (using specialized braces). She is delighted she can help more clients who come to her machine pedicure clinic in Clonmel, Co. Tipperary, with ingrown toenail problems.

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To order please go to www.dreambeauty.ie

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Calendar of Events

Talons 'n Salons Networking Events in 2016/17 for all Nail Techs organised by YOUR NAILS Magazine SUNDAY

MAY 2016 SUNDAY

AUGUST 2016

Talons 'n Salons Spring Break Cork

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SUNDAY

JANUARY 2017

Talons 'n Salons Christmas Party

See our website for more details: www.yournailsmag.com 18

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YOUR NAILS ISSUE 20 (1/2016)

Magazine

Editor-in-chief Karolina Boczek karolina@yournailsmag.com

karolina.boczek

iPad & iPhone App

Features Writers Technique Writer Trends Writer Jodie Edwards edwardsjodie@live.co.uk

Foot Care Feature Writer

Graphic Designers Graphic Designer Judith Kearney admin@yournailsmag.com

Contributors Cover nails by: Estetik Ilona Konsek, Gemma Lambert, Edit Gutpinter, Irina Ivanova, Jodie Edwards, Sinead Mydat, Aleksandra Snobl, Jose Alcaide, Rachel Cullen, Jurgita Prickute, Kara Evans, Marta Jablonska, Leah Coffey, Leanne Foer, Sylvia Werner, Karen Murphy, Zsanett Sugar, Diana McAlester, Claire Fagan, Terrance Terry, Elaine Watson, Agness Lassa, Doug Schoon, Marieclaire Rogers, Renee Hogan, Laura McCarthy, Izabela Kiolodziej, Monica Russo

Editorial Advertising Office 12 Clonile, Old Cratloe Road Caherdavin, Limerick, Ireland Tel. +353 (0) 86 8884936 info@yournailsmag.com

Our new App is available now! To find out more information regarding our brand new app, please check our facebook page or our website:

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The publisher, authors and contributors reserve their rights with regards to copyright of their work. No part of this work covered by copyright may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means without written consent of the publisher. The publisher, contributors, editors and related parties are not responsible in any way for the actions or result taken by any person, organization or any party on the basis of reading information, stories or contributions in this publication, website or related products.

Your Nails Magazine

Editorial

INNOVATIVE SOLUTIONS

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BONDER, PRIMER AND NAIL PREP MANY OF US HAVE WONDERED ABOUT THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THESE THREE PRODUCTS, SINCE THEORETICALLY THEY HAVE SIMILAR USES AND PROPERTIES Acid Primer Acid primer is used for acrylic method. It contains a high percentage of metha-acrylic acid. Therefore it is a highly acting product - which is why we apply it gently and selectively. Its aim is penetration of the nail plate, which will make small micro pores on the nail plate more prone to connecting with mass. It is very often called the product etching the nail plate. Non-acid Primer These are milder, not so acidic, due to a completely different composition. The main ingredient of non-acid primer is ethyl acetate, not methacrylic acid like the acid primers. One should remember that primers can be only used purely and simply on the natural nail plate, never on nail tips. It is recommended to avoid contact with the skin, because each primer can cause sensitivities. In the case of nonacid primers their scent can be smelt during application, it is not that irritating like in the case of acid primers. Non-acid primer usually dries slower than the acid primer, leaving the nails slightly shiny.

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Bonder Bonder is a UV foundation gel which is applied directly to the natural nail plate, which has been made matte, or nails with nail tips. Bonder is neither acid primer non non-acid. Bonder is a 2 in 1 type of product, which means primer plus regular foundation base gel. Other names of this product are foundation gel or base gel. Bonder is an acid free product and its job is to increase adhesion of the gel mass. A very small amount of it is applied to the natural part of matte nails and cured under UV lamp for approximately 1 minute. At this time the product gets its adhering properties - a so-called dispersion layer forms in order to make another gel mass adhere better. The bonder is not wiped. Another name for this is Primer UV.

Nail Prep Nail prep is a product for degreasing, cleansing and removing moisture from the nail plate before applying gel. Base One nail prep is an acid free product, which in a few seconds prepares the natural nail for further stages of nail creation. It does not require wiping. It closes nail flakes after the treatment of making the nail matte with buffer or file. It does not violate the pH balance of the nail plate. One of its assets is an ideal dehydralization, which is drying the nail plate, removing moisture before using products that need to be cured (UV gel, hybrid gel, acrylic). It is recommended for achieving maximum adhesion of gel, hybrid gel and acrylic to the natural nail plate. It does not dry the nail plate like the primer. In the case of a very oily plate, it allows, when used several times to minimize the risk of getting air into the product (UV gel, hybrid gel and acrylic). This product is very efficient. It can be applied for all techniques used in performing nail creations.

Step by Step

Art Vandals CND™ SUPPLIES SHELLAC™ Base Coat

XPRESS5™ Top Coat CND™ LED Lamp

SHELLAC™ Colours: Cream Puff Magenta Mischief Art Basil Future Fuchsia Digi-teal

ART SUPPLIES Thin Striping Tape Scissors Tweezers 99% Isopropyl Alcohol

1. P.E.P. the natural nail. 2. Apply a thin layer of SHELLAC™ Base Coat. Cure for 10 seconds in the CND™ LED Lamp. 3. Apply two thin layers of SHELLAC™ Cream Puff. Cure each layer for one minute. 4. Apply three strips of striping tape in diagonal directions creating four geometric sections. 5. Apply SHELLAC™ Magenta Mischief over the top quarter of the nail and repeat covering the other sections with SHELLAC™ Art Basil, SHELLAC™ Future Fuchsia, and SHELLAC™ Digi-teal. 6. Using tweezers, remove the striping tape to reveal the Cream Puff lines of the design. Cure for one minute. 7. Apply a thin layer of XPRESS5™ Top Coat. Cure for one minute.

PYTHON CRYSTALAC STEP BY STEP

2. Use the 100/180 Xtreme file to

3. To get the perfect adhesion

create the shape and smooth the surface with sanded acrylic finisher pink.

between the acrylic and gel material apply a thin coat of top shine gel and cure for 30 secs. Buff back the surface and now you can apply the base gel and cure for 2-3 minutes.

5. Use your decoration needle

Create almond shape using cover pink acrylic powder and size 8 acrylic brush.

Apply a thin coat of Grey Python Crystalac, but do not cure it.

to pick up small drops of East Off Hardener gel and apply in rows following the snake skin pattern.

Cover with the Clear/Top O Crystalac and cure for 2-3 minutes.

N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

Your Nails Columnist

Expert ADVICE

by Gemma Lambert

CORRECT FORM APPLICATION When I first started doing nails back in 1997 we were taught to tilt the form down and to pinch the tab at the back together. Years later we realised this was wrong, the nail then curves down like a claw, there was always a gap in between the form and the nail where acrylic or gel would seep underneath.

So a few years later I was taught to have the tab at the back, flat to the finger so it lifted the form at the front. But the form would still have a slight gap in between the nail and form and the form would still tilt down slightly, so my nails would still have a slight claw look.

Now we teach to open the tabs at the back and give them a 5-10mm gap, this lifts the form even more so we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a gap between the nail and the form. Depending on your clients hyponichium you may need to adapt the form more, as you can see I have a triangle gap at the side of the form because the form can not go down any further.

Cutting a small semi circle from the smile line of the form allows space for the hyponichium, therefore allowing the form to be fitted further down the nail. Make sure your tabs underneath the finger are attached together firmly and evenly or your nail will be slanted or move while you apply your product. This form is now fitted correctly.

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Step by Step

by Edit Gutpinter

Silver Warrior 1 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Prep the nail. Fit the form under the nail firmly in the stiletto shape. Extend the nail with pink acrylic cover powder. Pinch. Shape and buff the nails. Draw ornaments and flowers with watercolour paints or acrylic paints. Add more details with white paint to the flowers. Add more flowers to the other nails. Using black foil gel follow the previously drawn black ornament.

Cure then press the silver foil against it and pull.

Apply top coat and cure. N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

from the Experts

From the foot expert by Irina Ivanova

Feet and toes can be as sexy as the body and face

pring is on its way and many of us are looking forward to wearing summer clothes and sandals. We spend a lot of time and money getting our bodies and faces beach ready, however, we forget about another important part of our bodies - our feet. Throughout winter, our feet have been covered and restricted by shoes and boots. If we don’t take proper care of our feet during the colder months, we can develop calluses, our feet can become smelly and cause us pain. No matter how nice our new sandals are, they won’t look right on neglected feet. Beauticians can help their clients get their feet ready for the warm season as well as taking care of problem feet and toenails. Machine pedicure practitioners use a special German technology which removes dry skin from feet and toes, leaving the customer’s feet soft and baby-like . The treatment is safe, precise, and absolutely pain-free. Moreover, trained machine pedicure practitioners can treat such conditions as ingrown toenails (in a non-surgical way), calluses, corns, thickened toenails and excessive sweating.

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What can you do if your clients present with some of the above problems?

plastic splints protect the skin of the nail fold from being injured by sharp nail corners.

Ingrown toenails Toenails can change their shape and direction of growth due to wearing wrong footwear, injuries, excessive weight and internal bodily processes. However, 80 per cent of cases of ingrown toenails are caused by incorrect nail clipping both during salon pedicure treatments and at home. When the top corner of the toenail is cut too short or part of the corner is left too long, the nail will start growing into the soft tissues of the toe. Therefore it is very important to shape the nail properly during clipping - a slightly rounded square being considered the optimal one. If you discovered the first signs of changes in the direction of the growth of a client’s toenail, a Capoline tampone should be inserted. Capoline separates the nail plate from the nail fold and relieves the pressure on the soft tissues. Alternatively, sulci protectors can be placed under the nail fold. These highly flexible, hygienic

Thickened toenails

This problem mostly affects big toenails and is caused by fungal infections, tight footwear, injuries of the nail plate, psoriasis, etc. The nail plate gets thicker, changes color, and develops a characteristic

curve. If the nail plate thickens upwards, it can be ground down by using special rotating instruments. If the nail plate thickens downwards, the excess nail mass should be removed by using cuticle nippers and a double-sided file.

from the Experts

Products to recommend to your clients: • BAEHR Nail Fold Oil with wheat germ oil and camphor, which cares for nail folds, cuticles and the nail bed • BAEHR Nail Tincture with clotrimozole, which protects against fungal infection and visibly improves the structure of split and brittle nails • BAEHR Podo Forte Drops with tea-tree oil, which nurture and nourish skin and treat skin irritation. Calluses and corns

This is a very common footcare complaint which is caused by excessive pressure and rubbing. It can be associated with wearing poorly fitting shoes, walking barefoot for prolonged periods of time, rapid weight change, work or leisure activities, such as sports, ballet, dancing. Calluses can range in thickness from a few millimeters to half an inch or even more. The location of the problem is directly connected to the cause of the development, therefore effective treatment will only be possible if the cause of the problem is removed. Extra thick skin can be removed by rotating instruments of different grits depending on the scale of the problem.

At the same time it is very important to remember not to remove the callous completely as we must leave a protective layer to prevent soreness while walking.

Corns develop when pressure and rubbing is concentrated around a particular spot, and are formed out of hard or soft skin tissues, depending on their location. They can be safely removed with special rotating instruments: round bur ball cutter, ball cutter with crosscut, diamond instrument. Be careful not to mistake a wart for a corn.

Products to recommend to your clients: • BAEHR Karite cream forte with pantheons for extremely dry, rough and hard feet • BAEHR care balm with Shea butter for dry, rough feet • BAEHR Rose cream for dry and cracked skin • BAEHR Foot balm with propolis, unscented for smooth feet • BAEHR solution with 10 % propolis, unscented, for softening corns, calluses and hard skin. • BAEHR pressure protection products, containing paraffin oils, which protect the skin from drying out, reduce hard skin and keep it soft and supple.

• BAEHR gel protection ring for corns • BAEHR corn protection pad (assorted shapes and sizes)

Sweaty Feet This problem is caused by inappropriate footwear, which is too warm for the season, or continuous wearing of socks. In addition, sweat glands may

concentrate excessively in the foot area, thus causing sweaty feet, often exacerbated by stress and physical activity. This problem often goes hand in hand with cracked skin between the toes, often leading to infections and causing pain and discomfort. Products to recommend to your clients: • BAEHR Skin protection cream with clotrimozole, which regenerates skin and regulates the skin’s natural moisture and acid protective level • BAEHR Deodorant foot balm with farnesol and • BAEHR Foot deodorant spray with farnesol which reduces excessive foot perspiration and odour. Finally, you need to promote foot hygiene amongst your clients, warn them against wearing the wrong shoes, encourage them to have regular pedicure treatments and use footcare products, and your clients will be ready to slip into their sandals once the summer is here. Estetik Ltd provides training in machine pedicure for beauticians and is Ireland’s only official distributor for BAEHR and BUSCH, two German companies, which are the leading manufacturers and suppliers of products, equipment and rotating instruments for foot and nail care. Enquiries about courses and products featured in this article can be made at TeL 086 880 0351 or www.estetik.ie.

N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

Step by Step

Simply

BEAUTIFUL B A S I C N A I L A RT Nail art perfect for those in love and those celebrating St.Patricks Day

Step 1

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Step 1. Apply 1 coat of Perfect Match Chi-Chi. Cure. Apply second coat and cure. Step 2. Cut strips and stick them to the nail. Press them on so they stay in place. Cure for few seconds. Step 3. Brush CND Additive Jaded Rebel onto the nail. Step 4. Apply CND Additives Emerald Mirage Step 5. Remove the strips gently and cure for few seconds. Apply Top Coat and cure.

If you have a great idea for a basic design and want to share it, please contact gallery@yournailsmag.com

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Step by Step

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Step 1. Apply 2 coats of Catherine Nail Collection Dollhouse and cure in between each one. Step 2. Draw an outline of hearts with CND Shellac Black Pool. Cure. Step 3. Using Glamour Red from Catherine Nail Collection fill the empty space. Cure. Step 4. Outline the hearts again with CND Shellac Black Pool. Cure. Press red foil to the hearts and pull it back. Step 5. Apply top coat. Cure.

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Step 1. Apply one coat of CND Shellac Tundra. Cure. Apply second coat. Do not cure. Step 2. Using dotting tool, pick up the red hearts and place them gently onto the uncured coating. Cure. Step 3. Apply top coat gently making sure not to miss any empty spaces between the hearts. Cure.

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Step 1. Apply 2 coats of CND Shellac Frosted Glen. Cure. Step 2. Brush on CND Additives Emerald Mirage and Gilded Gleam. Step 3. Apply to coat and cure. Then Apply Lecente Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m Yours glitter. Step 4. Apply Top Coat and cure. N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

The one to win in 2016 Registration is open for the most anticipated Nail Tournament of the year The Irish National Nail Tournament returns for its second year at the Irish Beauty Show 2016.

With lots of new categories there's something for everyone, so whether you've competed before or it's your first time, this is certainly a nail tournament not to be missed. Registration for the 2016 Irish National Nail Tournament is now open and alongside last year’s category favourites there’s also an all-new Student Snap Shot Challenge where submission can be made using smart phones or tablet technology making it even easier to compete. We are thrilled to announce that the theme for 2016's Boxed Nail Art and Photographic categories is 'Sugar & Spice'.

Prizes for 1st, 2nd and 3rd places will be presented and the Overall Professional Winner will receive the title of Irish National Nail Tech 2016 joining Inga Balciunaite in the Irish National Nail Hall of Fame. Not only that the winner will receive continual exposure throughout the year and for a second year running the overall pro winner will also win a professional photo shoot with the image used as a Your Nails magazine front cover. “The experience is invaluable. You learn something new all the time, plus all the prizes are amazing. I was impressed with how well it was organised, the judges were very professional and well known and it was amazing to be judged by them,” says current Irish National Nail Tech Title holder, Inga Balciunaite. How to Enter To download your Competitor Pack and register your place, visit www.irishbeauty.ie and click on the Visitor tab.

Following the huge success of this year's inaugural competition, we are looking forward to welcoming familiar and new faces to Ireland's most exciting nail tournament for 2016.

Prizes

Inga Balciunaite Irish National Nail Tech 2015

Registration Open! Download Competitor Packs now for your first look at the new categories, rules & how to enter! www.irishbeauty.ie Competition Categories Top Tech Competition Nails Salon Nail Challenge Top Tech Permanent Polish Top Tech Stiletto Student Permanent Polish Freestyle Nail Art Challenge Student Tip & Overlay Challenge

Theme: Sugar & Spice Top Tech Photographic Classic Top Tech Photographic Nail Art Student Snap Shot Challenge Student Boxed Nail Art Top Tech Boxed Nail Art - Hand Painted Top Tech Boxed Nail Art - Mixed Media

LASHES

SPA BROWS COSMETICS

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Supported by

Editorial

BIO SCULPTURE 速 is

INTRODUCING EVO BY BIO SCULPTURE With over 25 years of experience in creating and evolving a nail gel that is beautiful, long-lasting and healthy, the original gel brand, Bio Sculpture Gel has launched a new revolutionary gel system. Years in the making, Evo Oxygenating Gel is set to change the worldwide gel market. The quick and healthy, bottle-and-brush system is for professional use and can only be purchased by qualified nail technicians. The system is designed for short colour overlays and is ideal for those who are looking for beautiful, shiny nails that will last for up to 3 weeks. Optional training and workshops available. Evo is infused with vitamins A & E that will migrate to the nail plate, even after curing. The overlay is permeable, allowing Oxygen and water vapour to move freely to and from the nail plate, preventing dehydration and softening of the keratin, that may damage the natural nail. Evo contains no harmful ingredients and protects the natural nails with a flexible base. Like Bio Sculpture Gel, Evo is self-levelling, easy to remove and has a long lasting high gloss finish. Evo has been launched as a complimentary system to Bio Sculpture Gel. The system will be launching in March 2016 with a large collection of 40 unique colours.

EXPERIENCE THE DIFFERENCE

Matte Top Coot

www.biosculr2ture.ie

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BiO SCULPTURE GEL

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N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

Trending Your Nails Columnist

E WO R L D TH

Ghana

TREND L I A S

France

M ARO U N O R China

Inject some of the exotic into your cosmetics cupboard with a little inspiration from the beauties across the water. The glamazons of Ghana are working neon nails this season, the ladies of France prefer to rock a classic red nail and the women of China are showcasing fingertips encased in elaborate nail art and glitters. Here’s our guide to the hottest nail trends from around the globe...

by Jodie Edwards

France Rhianna @badgalriri https://www.instagram.com/p/4ESEhABMyo/?taken-by=badgalriri Epitomise Parisian chic and concentrate on one colour. Keep your look simple and let your nails do the talking with a slick of classic red lacquer. The ladies of France wouldn’t be caught clutching their Chanel 5.55 with with torn cuticles and rough palms so ensure your fingertips are soft and supple with a drop of Savanna Escape Sunsent Bliss Nourishing Hand & Nail Cream, £3. Luxuriate the lotion into any dry patches and smooth down any broken flecks of skins for a polished look. Strong colours can stain your nail bed due to the intense pigment, so to avoid being left with pink tinge always coat your claws in a clear base coat such as Crabtree & Evelyn clear nail lacquer, £6. Next, grab a silky shade of rouge like Marks & Spencer Autograph All in One Nail Colour in Satin, £6 and saturate your nails in the glamorous shade. Top off the look by keeping your make up natural and playing up your lips with a matching rouge pout just like Rhianna at the Dior catwalk show. Add some excitement to your day time attire by lacing your lips in a captivating shade of crimson such as Dior Addict in New Look, £24 and let your pout pop on your morning commute.

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Your Nails Trending Columnist

GHANA Sandra Pellarini @sandra.pellarini https://www.instagram.com/sandra.pellarini/ Ditch the pastel polish and wave goodbye to your classic nude nail as its time to take inspiration from the glamazons of Ghana by decorating your talons in daring neon hues and unexpected colours. Start off your manicure regime by slathering your hands and feet in The Body Shop Shea Body Butter, £13. The high street favourite is renowned for collecting the fairest and most organic ingredients from all over the world to put in their balms and this one is no different; the shea butter is sourced from northern Ghana where it has been used for centuries to shield skin from the harsh Saharan winds. The intensely moisturising blend sinks deep into the skin and leaves your hands luxuriously silky. After the butter has sunk into your skin and disguised any rough bits of cuticle - coat your claws in a splash of clear lacquer to prevent any staining. Then, pick up a polish such as Marks & Spencer Limited Collection Gel Shine Polish in Shocking Pink, £4 and cover your talons in the eye catching shade. Build up the colour by lavishing your nails in a couple of layers to ensure it’s as bright as possible. If you’re feeling extra brave - get your hands on some neon nail pens such as NPW Majestic Jewels and Foils Nail Art Party Pack, £11.95 and decorate your manicure with eccentric designs, splashes of glitter and colourful swirls.

CHINA @nail__girl https://www.instagram.com/p/-jooicF0fM/?taken-by=nail__girl The women of China will always be the queens of kitsch and have never been one to shy away from a trend. The gorgeous girls on the other side of the world are showcasing fingertips emblazoned in embellishment and sparkles. Unleash your inner show girl and follow suit with a glistening manicure decorated in colourful rhinestones and eccentric nail art. Take inspiration from manicurist @nail__girl and coat two of your talons in a mermaid-inspired shade of lacquer such as BHS Lottie Nail Varnish in Retweet, £6 and off set it with a cooling peach tone such as Marks & Spencer Autograph Gel Effect Nail Colour in Stone. If you have a steady hand, douse a couple of your nails in both of the polishes and blend the hues together with a beauty sponge like BHS Lottie Blending Sponge, £5.50 to create an ombre effect. Next, grab the sparkliest nail polish you can get your talons on such as New Look Pure Textured Nail Polish in Turquoise Glitter, £2.99 and cover your middle finger for added sparkle. Finally, grab a pair of tweezers and delicately decorate your claws in as many diamantes as your heart desires using George Home Nail art set GBP £5.00.

N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

Interview

Women

IN BUSINESS

Sinead Mydat, Bio Sculpture Ireland

1. How did you start in this business, any funny story, basically what was the beginning. How did you find out about Bio Sculpture? The business was started by my mum, Helen. My parents have had a hair and beauty salon all their lives and clients came in mentioning Bio Sculpture. They went to the Olympia Beauty show in London and mum made my father have the demo done (as she already had her nails painted). He wore a Bio Sculpture gel nail for weeks so she could see how well it would last. She first brought the product into their salon and before long she was the sole distributor for Bio Sculpture in Ireland. I joined mum in the business within the year, after I returned from Australia where I actually did my Bio Sculpture training.

2. What was the process of setting up the company? What people have you met on the way who have helped you build your business? We were guided by the late Rene Lipsitz of Bio Sculpture GB. She helped with the initial tradeshows and gave us advice, as she had been with Bio Sculpture a few years already. Joining the other International Importers at conferences was also a great help as we met so many interesting people from around the world and saw how Bio Sculpture was developing in other countries.

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3. Did you find it difficult to grow your business as a woman, did you meet any obstacles? Not really. As we are in a female dominated business we are dealing with women most of the time. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a very competitive business but we know we have a strong product. The biggest obstacle has been the recession, but weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re still here !

4. What made you strong through the difficult times and kept you going? Working with my mum. She is a very strong woman who has shown me how to be a good, honest, hard working woman. She has always inspired me from a young child, to today.

5. What advice would you give to women in this business? Be true to yourself. Work hard. Smile! :-)

Cover Story

Morning Delight I turn the kettle on and gaze at him for a moment longer, he’s gorgeous, I think. I love mornings like these; fresh, bright, with a definite smell of spring lurking around the corner. The kettle has boiled, I pour myself a cup of black coffee. The scent fills the room quickly. He turns as though about to wake, but he doesn’t. I stare at him again, following his half naked body with my hazy eyes. I sit down on the porch, wrappying my warm bathrobe around me and letting my feet rest, freely swinging from the chair covered with green silk. A small bouquet of lavender is still lying on the table, tied with a small ribbon. It was yesterday’s gift from him. I take a sip of coffee, it is nice and hot. I let myself sink into my memories of last night’s moments that seemed like a dream, my morning delight. by Karolina Boczek

See us on Stand B18

N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

Cover Story

Morning Delight Irina Ivanova Owner of Estetik

Having lived in Ireland for a few years, I struggled to find a pedicurist that would meet my expectations of the treatment. While visiting my family back home in Russia, I came across a machine pedicure clinic. To say the least, I was really impressed with the treatment. My feet and toes felt so smooth and supple, and my toenails looked so good and healthy, I didn’t even feel the need to cover them with nail polish. I thought it would be great to be able to get a treatment like this in Ireland, which gave me the idea of learning how to do machine pedicure and open my own clinic. As my mind was made up, I secured a place on a manufacturer-authorised machine pedicure course in Russia, where I was lucky to be trained by the leading practitioners in the country. I found this course fascinating, and I have never stopped learning since. I have been back to Russia to attend six more specialized courses, always looking to enhance my knowledge and improve my skills. My dream of opening my own clinic came true over two years ago, when Estetik Ltd

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was established and things have been really busy since then. As a machine pedicure practitioner I can help clients whose feet need a little bit more attention than just cosmetic treatment. Alongside getting their feet pedicured, my clients can get help and relief with ingrown toenails, callouses and other unsightly and uncomfortable problems. My three children often joke that I have the worst job in the world, working with people’s feet. But for me, it is a true passion – and it really makes me happy to be able to help so many people. I also believe that healthy and well-groomed feet are as important as attractive hands, body and face. I wish more people in Ireland could avail of machine pedicure treatments which is why I started offering courses for beauticians and nail artists who want to extend their business and try something new. I work closely with two German companies, BAEHR and Busch, which have been the leading manufacturers and suppliers of equipment, materials, cosmetic and therapeutic products for foot care and nail care for over 65 years. Estetik Ltd is the only Model: Tynece official distributor of these Allen companies in Ireland, and all our training courses have also been authorized by Baehr.

Machine pedicure originated in Germany at the end of 1960s. This innovative approach used techniques developed in dentistry in order to care for customer’s feet and toe-nails. The approach has proved to be so successful that it has become a major foot care treatment in continental Europe. Machine pedicure is also known as waterless or dry technique because no water is used during the treatment. Instead, a disinfectant is applied to the feet and a special machine with a range of rotating instruments is used. Vacuum suction ensures that there is no residue left. Dry skin, calluses and corns are removed with cutters and burs of various shapes, sizes and grit, which can be chosen individually for each client according to their needs. This makes the procedure pain-free and ensures excellent results. All equipment is thoroughly sterilized, which excludes the risk of infection In addition, reflex areas on a client’s feet get massaged during the treatment, which can improve circulation and thus have an overall positive effect on the whole body. Contact: Estetikirl@gmail.com, www.Estetik.ie, www.facebook.com/estetik.ie www.facebook.com/MachinePedicure-for-men-and-women Telephone: 086 8800351

Cover Story

Step 1. Apply skin disinfectant and leave it for 30 seconds.

2. 1.

Step 2. Remove the length of the nail plate with end cutters. Step 3. Remove callused skin between the nail plate and the nail fold by using medium grit needle-shaped diamond rotating instrument.

Step 4. Remove callused skin around the cuticle, nail plate and toes by using medium grit cylinder-shaped diamond instrument. Step 5. Shape the nail plate surface with the white filing stone. This promotes better oxygen supply to the nail plates as the dead cells get removed.

Step 6. Remove deposits in the nail fold with the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Only Cleanâ&#x20AC;? hexagonal cutter. Step 7. Brush off dry skin particles and dust from the toes and between the toes.

Step 8. Now we start working on the feet. Remove calloused skin from the feet with a DiaTWISTERâ&#x20AC;? diamond instrument. Start by choosing a course grit, then move on to medium and fine grits.

6. 7.

Step 9. Apply cream with lavender and then rub in oil with wheat germ oil and camphor around the nail plate.

Monika Grabowska Photographer

N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

L is V E all

Product Spotlight

AROUND Bio Sculpture www.biosculpture.ie CND Vinylux Weekly Polish www.sweetsquared.com Nail Art Artisto Nail Art Pen www.excellentnails.ie

Caption Young Nails Red www.youngnails.ie BioSculpture Bio Sculpture Gel - Sunrise www.biosculpture.ie 38

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Product Spotlight

Bio Sculpture www.biosculpture.ie Bio Sculpture Bio Sculpture Gel www.biosculpture.ie

CND Shellac Warm Red Collection www.sweetsquared.com

NailArt Nail Art pen www.excellentnails.ie

Bio Sculpture www.biosculpture.ie

Lecente Lecente Glitter www.sweetsquared.com

N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

Footprint of Spring

Step by Step

by Aleksandra Sn贸bl

1. Start the work with a nude and buffed surface. 2. Mask the surface, and stamp wood pattern with nail stamp onto the nail.

3. Clean the unnecessary details and cover the surface with top gel. 4. Buff the surface, and make a drawing of flowers.

5. Use aquarell paint, colouring the petals and leaves. 6. Add some white on the petals for shine, and yellow for creating the center of the flower.

7. Add some details with fine lines to make your flowers come to life. 8. Cover the surface with matte top gel, and use black gel (without sticky layer) to create some swirls.

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Readers Choice Awards

THE R E S U LT S ARE IN!

N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

Readers Choice Awards

BEST GEL POLISH TOP 5 • Gelish • ManiQ • Catherine Nail Collection • TruGel • Perfect Match

BEST BUILDER GEL TOP 5 • Gelish Hard Gel • Young Nails Clear Gel • Power Gel Catherine Nail Collection • Balance Gel NSI • Xtreme Titanium Crystal Nails

BEST ACRYLIC SYSTEM TOP 5 • Attraction NSI • ProHesion Hand & Nail Harmony • Acrylic Clear Young Nails • Retention+ CND • Clear Acrylic Astonishing Nails

BEST NAIL VARNISH TOP 5 • Caption • Morgan Taylor Laquer • Catherine Nail Collection • OPI • MISA

BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE TOP 5 • Sweet Squared • Creative Academy Ireland • Young Nails Ireland • Catherine Nail Collection • The Nail Team UK 42

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Step by Step Readers Choice Awards

BEST EDUCATION CENTRE TOP 5 • Beautique Nails & Beauty by Cliona Sweeney • Young Nails Ireland • The Nail Team UK • Catherine Nail Collection Ireland • NSI Hair, Nail & Beauty

BEST UV / LED Lamp TOP 5 • Gelish LED • Young Nails UV • NSI Siegel 36W UV • Catherine Nail Collection UVA C-Light RED • CND LED

BEST PEDICURE SYSTEM TOP 5 • Callus Peel Young Nails Ireland • Pedicure Machine – Estetik Ltd Ireland • Kaeso – Young Nails Ireland • Sparitual – NSI Hair Nail & Beauty • Lomasi – Young Nails Ireland

BEST FACEBOOK PAGE TOP 5 • Beautique Nail & Beauty, Cork • Young Nails Ireland • The Nail Team • Catherine Nail Collection Ireland • NSI Hair Nail & Beauty

BEST NEW PRODUCT TOP 5 • NSI Secret Soak Off Gel • Caption Nail Art Screens – Young Nails • Catherine Nail Collection - UV NP C’est la vie Box • Young Nails Ireland - Caption Nail Polish • Sweet Squared Ireland - CND Rescue Rxx N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

from the Experts

Pricing Beginners to Professional by Karolina Boczek

When it comes to pricing our services it looks like we all make mistakes at the beginning of our careers and undercharge due to lack of confidence and skills. We feel that spending 3 hours doing a full set should be very cheap to compensate the customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time spent on the service. There are times that you are not sure of how much you should be charging and letting extra nail art or extra repairs go without charging at all. Does it sound familiar? If yes, it means you are aNO.19 beginner who needs a bit of advice and encouragement. NO.2 0 (5/2 (1 /2 015) 016)

from the Experts

f you have just finished your nail course and want to practice, the only right way to get your skills up to speed is to get volunteers to sit for 3 hrs getting their nails done. Do you think it’s fair to them to charge anything if they are spending an extra 1 1/2 hours of their time to give you the chance to practice? To be honest, clients should be respected in this case too.

can get their nails done really cheaply and it doesn’t have to necessarily be a beginners service. Nail technicians wrongly price their work due to lack of customers, thinking that they will get more business if they drop the price. So you can get it done for as little as €25 from a small salon or house based nail tech who thinks that it is better to get any business than no business at all. They base their price on what their competition is doing. But that mind set only restricts you

Make them aware of the length of time of the service when you start and tell them that you are charging them only for the products that you are using. • 20g Gel - €20 you will use about €2/€3 for a full set depends on the length. • File €2 • Buffer €0.50 • Colour €20 for a bottle and you will use €2 worth of product for colour • Top Coat €0.50 • Cuticle Oil €.10

As a beginner you are looking at the expenses and thinking that they are getting a very cheap service and FACEBOOK POST perhaps you just want to get your money back ********** Hey All *********** for the products you From January there will be a small price are using, but as you increase for nails and treatments...I are offering a service haven’t done this easy cause I love all that is two times longer my clients but due to price increase on than in a professional products and insurance and tax etc I can’t salon and where the Continue so cheap ..as It is I’m half the quality is far from the price as most salons but I’m the same as high standard offered them I’m self employed and pay tax I’m on high streets, you fully insured to protect my clients and should be looking at it I’m constantly trained to keep up with from a different point latest trends plus lighting and heating of view. it just so much....there are others out there charging same as me or less but What you offer: they are doing it to earn extra money Gel Nails Extensions and are not paying tax vat etc and are €20 for a full set with not as qualified..im doing this to pay nail art Time: 3.5hrs my mortgage and support my family... im Quality: low / medium qualified 12 years in nails and beauty and hold over 50 certs..... I hope my clients What professional are ok and as I said it’s not going to offers: €45/€45 for be much but needs to be done so i can a full set with nail art continue..any problems feel free to pm (only 2 fingers usually) me..prices will be up over nxt few days. Time: 1 / 1.5 hrs Quality: High

Total €7.10 If the client requires any extra nail art you can just use your own skills, meaning drawing and flicks. If you are using any diamonds or stickers or anything that you have paid for, charge accordingly. PLEASE LET CLIENTS KNOW YOUR CHARGES FOR NAIL ART You are not charging for your time as you are only only practising. This time is given to you by your client and you should be grateful for this opportunity.

There is too much detail in this!!

When you compare these 2 examples do you still think that customers should be happy that they are paying only half the price or less for the nails. Yes they should be, as they are compensating the cheaper price with their time and perhaps the quality of the service.

The way I look at it is that anyone

from growing and making money from your services. HOW TO AVOID IT? INFORM your clients from the start that you are only PRACTISING!

If you feel that you are getting better and want to upgrade your pricing please make sure first that you have: • Improved your time to less than 2 hrs. • Improved on quality • Improved on durability Before making an appointment with your customers you should

N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

from the Experts

inform them about the changes in your prices due to service upgrade. If you are afraid of losing them, being unfair or dishonest is worse for your business as word of mouth can destroy your good reputation which is very hard to regain. Don’t get upset when your customers are not happy with price changes, if they don’t understand your position they won’t respect you in the future. If you are at the stage that you are confident enough to charge more, all you need to do is add an extra charge for your time. There is no need to make excuses for yourself and your expenses. (see example on previous page) Do people care? Not really... You don’t want to make your clients feel sorry for you, but you do want them to know your worth and high standards. If you lose your clients, you lose them, you can’t do anything about it, but it is unlikely to be because of increased prices. The worst thing is to underprice your service just because you work from home. You can charge a little bit less but not significantly less. Salons in town have rent and commercial rates to pay that you don’t, but if you have invested in your skills you need to consider this too. Location plays a significant part when it comes to prices but you need to consider the number of customers in the area. For example, if you are doing nails from home and you are living in a remote area, you need to take into consideration the time it takes your customers to travel to you and compensate them for travelling by perhaps charging €5 less so they feel that even if you are far from the centre of town they still prefer your service anyway.

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There are a few different types of customers: Price cautious: Clients who look at their monthly expenses and are willing to compromise the quality over paying a few Euro less. (You can’t win with these customers if you raise your charges, but they might come back in a few months after a few bad services on the way). Quality cautious: Clients who are willing to give you €5 extra for your time and appreciate your standards and the quality of your work. You will only lose them if you lower your quality of work. These are the best customers ever!

Bored quickly: Clients who don’t care about the quality or even the price. They change their nail techs every few months and are easily influenced by their friends recommending someone else. No regrets if you lose clients like these. Cheap price lookers: Clients who come only when you have an offer on or who found you through Groupon or know that you’re a beginner and are trying you to do nails using all the nail art you have on your shelves. Keep them at a distance. Charge for any extra work. People who are genuine will come back to you for many years without you feeling that you owe them anything. It works both ways.

If you start giving discounts to your loyal clients it will only divide your clients. If you give discounts, give them to everyone. Don’t give percentage discounts, only give euro-off type of discounts. Percentage discounts only create confusion and habit. If you raise your prices and then do an offer, you are sending a message to your clients that you can do them cheaper and there is no need to raise the prices again. It is better to do recommendation offers, ie. if you bring your friend you will get €5 off your next service or if you buy a voucher you can get it few euro cheaper. If you are using a very expensive products you need to take this into consideration but you need to inform your clients about this as well. Don’t make them feel that you might be using something very cheap but charging them more than other salons. If you are using products like Shellac / Gelish as a top colour on your extensions but you also have cheaper colours that work for you, you should let your customers know that if they choose these brands they will be charged a few € more as these products are more expensive to use. If you are not sure how many sets you can do using your gel you should ask your supplier. They all have information that might be useful for you with setting your prices. This should be satisfying for you and your wallet. Once your clients see your progress and improvement they will agree to price changes as they have become a witness to your struggles and your success.

Trending

Interview

Nail Talk with Jose Alcaide

from Burjasot, Spain

1. Where did your passion for nails come from? How did it start? My passion for nails began about 8 years ago. I have been always interested in the world of aesthetics. I had a friend who began a course of acrylic nails. Ultimately I did this course with my friend and this what started something that would turn into my major passion. A new art for discovering. 2. There are many more men making amazing careers now in this industry but was it easy for you to make this decision? I have always felt comfortable in a career where there are more women that men. I have never felt any type of rejection. All my colleages have been marvellous to me, so it was easy. 3. Who supported you the most at the beginning? Undoubtedly, my family. They have been always a great support to me. 4. Do you have any plans for your future career ? To continue learning. To offer better things I must

continue learning every day. Nowadays I give courses for the whole Spain and some countries in Latin America. 5. Who do you admire the most from the nail industry and why? I have been lucky to have met some of the big artists. I have a special fondness for Ilona Musik, Irina Primo and Oksana Borzenkova. Ilona is very sweet and a complete artist. I love her work!! Irina represents perfection and Oksana is an incredible educator. But it is difficult for my to name only these three artists. I am a real fan of many artists. 7. If you get a chance to train with anyone in the world who would that be? It’s a difficult question ... maybe Ilona Musik ! 8. What would you like to achieve in the New Year? To continue being happy every day 9. What would you wish for yourself in the New Year? Health and a lot of work. To be able to continue enjoying my passion... N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

Salon Review

RACHEL’S NAILS

My name is Rachel Cullen and I am the proud owner of Rachel’s Nails, my home based Nail Salon in Athy, Co Kildare, Ireland

At 27 years of age I am fairly new to the nail industry, however I worked in a beauty salon through secondary school mostly doing secretarial work, meeting and greeting clients, ordering products and working with stock. I loved every minute of this job. I enjoyed meeting new people and the vibe of working in a salon environment. It was throughout my early teens that I promised myself that I would eventually return to this industry. When I left school I ultimately chose a very different career path and chose to work in a state job. I worked in that job successfully for several years and I had a family and was very content with my life. However as life often does, I got thrown a curve ball in 2012. We found out my eldest son, who was 4 at the time, was suffering with some health issues and learning difficulties. In 2013 he was diagnosed with a learning disability and after several assessments we put a plan in place which would help him develop at his own pace and speed. This plan however, meant one parent had to stay home. So I made the decision to leave my job and face the unknown. For the first time in my life I felt I had no direction. 48

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It’s at this point I have to give my husband huge praise. He was so supportive and he was the one who reminded me of the fun I had when I worked in the beauty salon. He suggested I return to that industry. So I took a leap and researched my courses. ACCREDITED COURSES It was important for me to find a course that was accredited and that I felt I could stand proudly behind. Too many places are offering in-house training courses with no real standing qualifications and I wanted to give my new career a real go. I eventually chose my course with the College of Media and Artistry in Dundrum in Co Dublin because I was satisfied with their accreditation and the course structure seemed very defined. I completed my course with a lovely instructor named Julie Davis. She was so professional and precise and I enjoyed every moment of my course. I passed my exams and was now a nail technican! My husband has always encouraged my training and insisted that I used the last of my savings from work to set up my home salon in a separate room of our home.

Salon Review I always prided myself on being professional and organised and personable in my previous job and I felt that these were important traits to carry over to my new job as a nail technical. If I was working in a salon I would like to offer a friendly professional service, and working from home was no different. I designed my salon to reflect my personal taste but to be welcoming and feminine and inviting. I wanted my clients to experience the salon experience from the comfort of a home environment. I chose a blush pink and white colour scheme. I think finishing touches and small details tie a space together and make it inviting and this is what I hope I have achieved. The best compliment I get from clients is when they first arrive at my salon and they are amazed at how much it feels like a salon and at the professional service that they receive. WORKING FROM HOME As a new nail technican it would have been easy to become frustrasted and give up after a few months. It’s much harder to build up a client base while working from home as opposed to a salon. I quickly learned that. But I persisted and took to the pavement. I got a tunic embroidered with Rachel’s Nails which I always wear for my appointments. I gave flyers and price lists out to local businesses, anywhere that potential clients would visit. I created a Facebook page. I advertised special offers on Facebook and practiced my new skills as much as I could on my sister and friends. More importantly I reached out to other successful nails techs in my area for advice and support and found a fantastic support network. It is such a warm and welcoming industry, I would advise anyone trying to make a success of this career to utilise the experience and support of other nail techs as they offer great tips and advice. CONTINUOUS TRAINING One golden piece of advice I heard again and again was the importance of continually training and learning new skills. So I again did my research and based on advice from my new support network I chose to complete a manicure and pedicure course with Crystal Nails in Dublin in 2015. My instructor was a lovely woman named Dorina Vass who owns her own successful salon in Dublin called Mademoiselle at Studio M. Like so many of the other nail technicians I had spoken to Dorina, was more than helpful and when I reached out to her after successful completion of the course, not only did she encourage me to stay in touch with any questions I had about products or techniques, but also wished me luck and has been such a good resource to have! It has been just over 2 years since I made one of the best but toughest decisions in my life. I have the best of both worlds. I get to do a job I love and meet

lovely people every day, and I get to work around my family’s needs. I offer a range of services in my salon and I am delighted to say that this range will be expanding after Christmas. It was important to me that my prices be affordable as I think everyone deserves nice nails and a bit of pampering! I don’t have rent or salon overheads to pay, so my clients appreciate the service they receive for the price they are charged. I don’t believe in charging extra for nail art as most large salons don’t either. From next month I will be offering deluxe manicures including paraffin wax and pedicures. I’m so excited to be able to expand and offer new services to my clientèle! I will also be offering a Mammy and Me Polish which I expect will be quite popular for communions and Mothers Day. I would encourage anyone thinking of making a career change or looking at starting in this industry to do their research. Choose a course not because it is nearest you or cheapest but because it’s accredited and you feel you can have a lasting relationship with your instructor. Transparency is so important and I feel proud of my award which is hanging on my salon wall for anyone to see it should they wish to! Build up a good support network, trust in the advice that more experienced nail techs have to offer you, they know what they are talking about ! Try new products, and experiment. Find a product that you feel you can work with. Send every client out of your salon confident that you have done the best job you can do. PROFESSIONAL TOUCH If you’re working from home, try to be as professional as possible. Go the extra mile for your client. I send out appointment reminders via text the day before my clients appointment, a service which ensures my appointment book is always full and my clients appreciate the professional touch. It’s imperative to have your own space defined and separate from your home life. Make it as inviting as possible. It let’s your clients know what to expect and in my opinion is a reflection of your standards as a nail technican. Most importantly get out there and make yourself known. Don’t be disheartened and don’t give up! N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

Photo Gallery

GALLERY Ilona Konsek

Jurgita Prickute

Kara Evans

Marta Jablonska

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Photo Gallery

Jurgita Prickute

Leah Coffey

Leanne Foers

Tina Li

Sylvia Werner

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Photo Gallery

Karen Murphy

Zsanett Sugar

Karen Murphy

Diana McAlester

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Photo Gallery

Leah O’Neill sso Monica Ru

Diana McAlester Ilona Konsek

Diana McAlester Marta Jablonka

Leah O’Neill Claire Fagan

Kaye Robinson

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Trending

Trend Forecast 2016 by Nail Icons ...

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m noticing a lot of textures, meaning soft 3D work such as the 3D sweater design and also soft gel 3D work, which gives the nail texture and dimension.

Terrance

I do think the USA and Canada will still follow the celebrity lead. They are still wearing traditional, short, manicured with Terry nail color with little or no nail art. It is the celebs that inspire what the designers ask for during New York Fashion Week and it goes on from there. Internationally, I still see artificial nails with strong nail art influence in Mexico, Central and South America. Asia continues to do long natural shaped nails with some art. They have always and will continue to take their craft very seriously. Structure is very important to them. Europe is broken up into several different styles. I feel the UK will continue to explore acrylics. However, I do think the celebrity styles do carry over from the US to England. I feel that Russia will continue to surprise us with something new and innovative in shape and style. Russia likes to be a leader and not a follower. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait to see what comes out of there. Italy is still VERY traditional. Natural beautiful nails with color will continue to lead the trend there. Their style is deeply rooted in their culture and family history.

Gemma Lambert

I think textured nails will still be big this spring using sands, fine glitters, pigments and dusts to create simple designs. Moving into spring/ summer I think ruffles with 3D acrylic and colour blocking techniques will be popular.

Elaine Watson 54

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Salon ReviewP

Product Spotlight

EDITOR’S CHOICE A

kzentz Shine–On Top Coat This top coat tops any other top coat out there. Honestly I think it’s magnificent. Why? Firstly, it’s no wipe which means you save time on wiping the residue off each nail and by not doing so you are saving your cotton wipes. Secondly, the shine is amazing. It has a real mirror shine and believe me I have used most of the products on the nail market and none of the top coats had such a brilliant thick looking shine and this is the look I am always looking for. Thirdly, it’s LED cured so you can use it on top of any gel polish. I have checked and it works. Period.

agnetic Nail Design Seal and Protect It’s a simplified version of IBX. That’s what I have been told, so I was very intrigued by this product and eager to try it. No heat, no time, just apply it between treatments onto the natural nail and cure it in a UV lamp and that’s it. It is also supposed to strengthen the nails and make them stronger. I have tried it and need to tell you that it does work! I used it on every client for over 3 months and I can see results. One client in particular is extremely delighted with the results as she had problematic nails. Three of her nails would always lift and fall off due to shedding at the sides and due to her nails being very thin. I tried applying cuticle oils rich in vitamin A, jojoba oil etc, I tried different types of gels and brands from hard ones to soft ones. Nothing worked until I started using this product and her nails started growing at the sides and all shedding disappeared. Success!

ail Steamer Gel Polish Remover

This was sent to me in the last minute before sending the magazine to print, so I used my friend’s nails to try the product. I am sure you are wondering if this really works? And the answer is yes, it works N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

Product Spotlight

EDITOR’S CHOICE

continued

perfectly. Is it worth the price ? It depends what you are looking for. I would say this product is for nail techs who hates mess, as this way of removing gel polish is quite neat and less time consuming. Once you invest, all you need to buy is acetone, which is much less expensive than foils, wraps, clips etc. in the long run. If you remove gel polish quite often I think this is good product to buy. It is easy to clean as it’s plastic. It beeps when it’s ready, beeps after 5 and 10 minutes, when I tried it the gel polish was nicely removed after 5 minutes. I used a scraper very gently and the red gel polish came off without a problem. My friend said it didn’t feel hot when she had her fingers inside it, and after removing the product step by step her fingers didn’t feel funny, her skin wasn’t irritated even though she had bitten cuticles, and what was most important her fingers didn’t smell of acetone and neither did the room. As Doug Schoon said, the container prevents solvent vapours escaping into the air and this helps to reduce inhaling the vapours and reducing the potential accidental fires while speeding removal of nail coating. Pretty impressive.

Big HITS of 2015

YES

Coffin shaped nails are still very popular in many salons. If they are well done they can look amazing, but if you get it wrong they can look quite bad. The are better looking on longer nails

YES 56

YES

Glass Nails were popular for a short time and we admired the results. Usage of glass looking glitter was very popular when nail art was encapsulated.

Sweater Nails. Big hit for Christmas 2015. Very easy to do. Gemma Lambert has created a video step by step.

Jewellery Nail Art was a huge success especially in the UK. It is created with foil gel and foils. When it is nicely done it can really complement the nails. NO.2 0 (1 /2 016)

No Comment!

Step by Step

Proof of Love 1. File the natural nails to take the shine off the surface. 2. Apply the forms onto the nail and apply nail primer. 3. Build the extensions to edge shape with cover pink and mix few colours for tip and add some sparkly glitter. Shape, file and buff nails. 4.Â Using acrylic paint create one-stroke flowers and leaves. 5. Apply UV top coat and cure for 2 minutes. Apply cuticle oil.

By Agness Lassa

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#ForEveryWoman Semi Permanent MAKE UP by PROVOC

Unleash the wild inner you with colours of PROVOC-ative passion Imagine the impossible explosion of colours

COMING SOON TO IRELAND

To order please go to www.dreambeauty.ie

from the Experts

ASK YOUR

NAIL EXPERT By Doug Schoon, Schoon Scientific Nail Structure and Product Chemistry www.schoonscientific.com

What is outside the scope of nail technicians work?

rather ignore the facts. Simulating the internet information has actually become a convenient way to share misinformation on a grand scale. Now misinformation flows like water, it’s everywhere, Many nail technicians confuse education with making it much harder to distinguish between facts application skills. Applications skills are important. and myths. Some nail technicians use the internet to But they are only a small part of what nail teach their bad habits to other nail technicians who technicians need to know. Most nail technicians don’t know any better. Some teach and encourage focus their time on developing these application nail techs to work outside the scope of their jobs. skills so they become quite adept at using the What I mean by that is that nail professionals products. Then they make a critical error. should not diagnose medical conditions. Yet some They begin to think they don’t need to know incorrectly teach others to diagnose and indentify any more, that they already know an infection by the nail plate’s colour or enough. Many will intentionally shun ‘Nail appearance. the opportunity for advancing their professionals education; they don’t take classes, they This is extremely difficult to do even for should not don’t read trade magazines, maybe they trained medical professionals which is only look at the pictures, they know diagnose why wise doctors will send a sample of the enough already - or so they think. infection to the lab for identification. Many medical nail techs don’t stop there. They attempt conditions’ Well, here’s what I think about that. to tell the client how to get rid of the infection without realising they are actually I had the honour of knowing many of the finest nail prescribing treatment for a medical condition. This technicians in the world and I would say there are is clearly outside the scope of a nail technician’s very few who can truthly say that they know enough work and against the law. Only qualified medical about the natural nail and nail products. They will doctors should diagnose and identify or provide any probably never claim to know it all anyway, because kind of treatment for infections or any other medical they have a thirst for more knowledge. Wait a condition of the nails. Telling clients they have an minute? Do you think this is how they got to where infection, directing them to soak in salt and vinegar they are now - by realising that they don’t know it all and it is likely that they never will? But this doesn’t stop them from trying to learn more. Many nail technicians aren’t comfortable with learning anything that might challenge what they were taught. Instead they would 60

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from the Experts

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Face-to-Fac e with Doug Sc hoonâ&#x20AC;? Expert inform ation for the nail and beau ty industry schoonscien tific.com To view free episodes go to: facetofacew ith dougschoon .com

is an example of an improper diagnosis and treatment of the condition. The same is true when a nail technician gives a client anti-bacterial oils to treat their infection. All of this is outside the scope of the nail professionalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work and could delay a client from seeking diagnosis and proper treatment by a trained medical professional. Nail technicians should never diagnose, treat or prescribe a treatment or prescribe any treatment for any type of medical condition, nor should they intentionally perform any unsafe medical procedures. Some nail professionals attempt to apply artificial nail coating to a finger or toe nails that are missing all or part of the nail plate. All artificial nail coatings should be kept off the skin and none are safe for nail technicians to use to replace missing nail plates. To do so requires the nail professionals

to intentionally expose the sensitive living tissue of the nail bed to artificial nail coating. These are only designed for safe application to the nail plate. Creating prosthetic nails is a medical procedure that requires highly specialised training and caution, yet some are practising these improper procedures in their salons. All nail manufacturers should be instructing nail professionals to always avoid contact with skin due to possible potential adverse skin reactions. I have no exception to this rule. Some companies are improperly and incorrectly claiming their products can be used for this application. One important way to avoid developing a permanenent allergy to nail coating products is to never touch them to the skin until they are properly cured. It can lead to permanent allergic reactions.

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Nailtech Spotlight

My Story... by Marieclaire Rogers

After many years living abroad I finally decided to come back home and return to my roots in the beauty industry. It wasn’t long before I immersed myself in all things nails! I did my initial training

I think it’s safe to say that my journey to becoming a nail technician was not a conventional one! Having graduated with a science degree I went on to obtain a certificate in Beauty Therapy. I secured a job in a busy salon in Galway City, however after about two years I felt my life had come to a bit of a stand still, and I was starting to lose interest in an industry I had once loved. With that I decided to go along to an open day for Emirates airlines, and was lucky enough to be selected for a job as a flight attendant. Before I knew it I was jetting off to start a new life in Dubai, U.A.E. I spent many happy years as an air hostess and got to see and experience places I could only have dreamed of! The one city that really stole my heart was New York, and it was here that my love of nails was born. I would often visit the fun and quirky nail bars that the city had to offer.

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with CND, and over the years have done additional training with both Young nails and Crystal nails. Education is key, you can never stop learning new skill and techniques! Earlier this year I opened my own business, “Pink Malibu Nail Studio” in Galway City which is going from strength to strength. I recently collaborated with MUA Grainne Coughlan on her latest photo shoot. This was something I really loved as I got to really experiment with my artistic and creative abilities! I feel extremely lucky to be able to say that my work is my passion and to have finally found my niche as a nail artist.

Interview

Jamaican Dream The name of the salon draws your attention, Polished. Located on the main road from Limerick to Shannon near the main shopping spots and the famous local shop, Ivans, the owner, of Jamaican origin, Renee Hogan, has told Karolina Boczek the story of her newly opened salon.

“I decided to move back to Limerick with my husband and 2 year old twins after going to live in Jamaica for a year, as this is were I am from. So when I came back I was wondering what to do. I was driving past this place and saw that it was closed and I said to my husband that it is a nice location. We discussed what would be a good business to run from this location. I’ve always loved being in nail industry and I have completed a nail course with Essential Nails in the UK and really enjoyed it. I’ve always enjoyed going to the nail spa in Dublin like Mink or Pink Emporio, so I said ‘why not open an American style nail bar in Limerick’. There isn’t one except for the one in Bellisimo. That’s where the seed was planted.“ Renee, together with her husband, who also designed her logo and leaflets, researched the market first. “We did a few marketing polls to see

what people thought about it. I established a Facebook page and before the business even came about people were asking me when I was opening, so I said, let’s do it! We did market research in Caherdavin and the North Circular Road and we used a Facebook management app. We boosted lots of our posts and we targeted areas of interest. We have clients coming even from Ennis so targeted people are actually coming.“ To start with Renee had difficulties in finding the right people to work for her as she was looking for nail technicians who are also beauticians. “Finding the staff was most difficult thing I have ever done. My background is really human resource management. But this time I couldn’t find staff! I found that a lot of people applied for the position but when I called them for interview they had lots of excuses as to why they couldn’t come to the interview. So eventually I posted ads on the, Jobs. ie, and put some on the Limerick Post, everywhere I could, but in the end, most of the girls that applied N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

Interview

were through referrals. People who know them and know they are good referred them to me. I organised an interview session in the Radisson Hotel but out of 9 potential interviewees only 2 came. But I got the best in my opinion, they are very good at what they do, they are very creative. They are very eager and willing to learn new things and they are up on the current trends.“ Where you walk into the salon you cannot help but notice that the main brand used is OPI with 3 nail tables on your left hand side and 3 pedicure chairs on your right :”The main nail product we use is OPI, we use it for the 3-week manicure and nail extensions and also for acrylic nails. We have a very wide range of colours. Zsuzanne, who is a nail technician, is constantly coming up with new designs and keeping up with the trends and our customers are coming out with smiles on their faces. We have a multinational staff which makes us very interesting I think. Three of my girls had operated their own businesses up to quite recently and they are fully trained beauticians which I was looking for when I was staffing. I wanted people who were good at everything.” The pedicure chairs look impressive taking into consideration that there are only very few salons in Limerick offering proper pedicure treatments. ”With our pedicures we have 3 options of service, we have the basic pedicure soak and cuticle work, scrub and polish. We have a Spa Pedi which takes a little bit the basic pedi a bit furether as you get a longer massage session with aromatherapy oils, and also you get a paraffin treatment; and then we have the Deluxe Pedi with an additional treatment of a callus peel (we do 2 types of callus peel where we use a scraper - we have a licenced technician to do that or we use a Callus Peel product), & we offer you a glass of bubbly! You sit in a fully reclined chair with collagen eye patches on your eyes for a more relaxing experience. If someone is booked for this we try to work around our other appointments so as not to disturb this treatment with other services in the salon“. Coming in 2016 Renee wants to add a hair extension service to the salon, and also a wash and blowdry. The aim of the salon is for every woman to come here and get the full package done instead of having to go to the hairdresser in town and then come to us to get their nails done. As Renee summarised “What we want to achieve here is when you have a night out, you can come in to get your nails done, you can get your tanning done, your waxing done and get your hair done and your make up done to go. Everything together. A one stop shop!“ 64

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Nail Artist of the Year

Nail Artist Year of the

2015

‘and the winner is ...’

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Nail Artist of the Year

Y H T R A C C M A R U ...LA 1. How was 2015 year for you? 2015 was a great year, very busy, but great. I entered the VCTC Nail Championships and was awarded 1st Fantasy Nail Art, Received Voters choice in PB Manchester and in PB Dublin, was apart of the Official Sponsors team Nail Nerds at Miss Ireland which was yet again an amazing experience. My eldest daughter started secondary school - a very daunting time for all. I trained in tanning and trained with industry experts Hazel Dixon and Denise Wright. An awesome experience in which I learned so much. I was accepted in the Nails Mastered with Marian Newman training programme. I opened my own salon and training academy in December and I’m over the moon with it already and it’s early days. Being nominated for Your Nails magazine Nail Artist of the Year was amazing, let alone getting into the top 6. I’m overwhelmed with the support from family, friends, clients and colleagues. Thanks to you all! x 2. Any plans for 2016? Well I’m hoping to finish out the salon, upskill to offer more treatments, including lashes and make up. I will update my classroom area in time for February classes, enter PB Birmingham, Manchester and Dublin, Go on a long overdue family holiday (none in 9 years). And generally enjoy every minute of it. 3. How do you feel about winning Nail Artist of the Year? 66

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I’m absolutely stunned, overwhelmed really. But extremely grateful to everyone who has helped me to get here; my friends, family, clients, colleagues and everyone that helped and voted. Thank you all very much. I truly appreciate it with all my heart. 4. What do you think about the last couple of years of Irish nail industry ? The last few years nails have sky rocketed, they are now as much a fashion statement as clothes, hair and make-up, part of the catwalk. 5. Can you name a person who inspired you, who you met last year? There are loads, I’ve met some amazing colleagues over the past few years and I’d like to thank them for their help and friendship, Caroline & Kelly, Emma Harris is a huge inspiration. But I think the best moment was when I met both Tracey Lee and Hazel Dixon. Both are so amazing at what they do. All their work is inspiring to me. 6. What is the best recipe for success in this industry? Work hard, practice, learn more and be true to yourself. 7. What do you think about Your Nails Magazine, do you think it has benefited the industry? Your Nails Magazine is a great way for Nail Techs in Ireland to get their name out there in the country, from doing step by steps, readers

Nail Artist of the Year

gallery or even having the honor of doing a cover. It’s brilliant for the up and coming nail techs to read about the upcoming trends, learn from the step by steps, application techniques and read the great information they need to go forward in their careers as nail techs. 8. What was the best nail trend of 2015? I loved baby boomers and broken glass nails, but I love all classy nail art. There is some seriously stunning work out there. 9. What was the worst nail trend of 2015? Oh that definitely has to be bubble nails! 10. If you could recommend one thing to every nail tech to have what would it be? A sense of humour and patience. lol 11. What do you think might be a big hit in nail trends in 2016? I think chromes will follow through from this year and i’m seeing alot of french variations on the catwalks 12. What was the most common colour you have used on your clients in 2015? Reds, they are always popular in any shade. A true classic N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

from the Experts

What’s Wrong With Being

Confident In Your Skills? ‘My nails have lost their shine!’ Have you ever had a customer coming to your salon saying that their nails have lost their shine? It’s not very common but it does happen. When we buff the nails we are always careful not to remove the colour, but if we have removed it we need to reapply the colour. This is time and money wasted, as we are persuaded by the customer it wasn’t their fault. But....there is nothing further from the truth. Customers are not aware of chemicals in some products used at home, such as baby wipes or any kitchen spray, which can cause nails to lose shine, even cooking over the oven can cause nails to lose their shine as the high temperatures may dull them. There are also many cleaning products that can affect the shine and sometimes even change the colour of the gel polish. If your customer had shiny nails walking out of your salon then you did nothing wrong. You simply need to explain and then charge for your time to fix it.

‘My nail just broke!’ Do you really think that your nails were so thin or badly done that the nail would break straight away by itself? It’s very unlikely, unless you didn’t put any gel on it. So basically what happened was that your client broke her nail as she might have broken her natural nail. Simple. Gel nails used to be very thick and customers were used to thinking that this makes them stronger and that they will never break! But nowadays nails are not that thick anymore and the purpose of having them is to make them look nice and last 3 weeks, not to make them stronger. So if you are not sure whether or not to charge your client for a broken nail – the answer is yes.

‘My client keeps rescheduling her appointment at the last minute.’ This can be very annoying. The best thing you can do, and this method is the best for noshows too, is just ask for a deposit when you are booking the appointment, although this can only be done when you are able to take payments over the phone or if she is able to drop it off. Of course when this is not an option you can always apply for a payment platform that takes payments over the phone and then you can also take Visa and debit card payments in your salon. Bank of Ireland offer a ‘no transaction fee and one monthly payment’ option which is very good for small businesses and start-ups.

Can you do something like that? How many clients come to you with a picture of amazing looking nails. Most of the pictures we find on Pinterest are done with nail varnish and they look so easy to use, but clients don’t understand that when we use gel polish it is always possible to copy a design. And what if the customer decides that she wants diamonds and sparkle and zebra print etc? We don’t always have the time to do it. Simply tell your customer that you are unable to do this as it requires more time, and tell her that if she wants nail art next time she will need to inform you about the nail art she wants as this requires extra time and and also let her know that there will be an extra charge for all of those diamonds etc. Never be put under time pressure.

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Photographic Competition

PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION Square Pink White

Have you found the trend of French Manicure coming back to the salons with clients having had enough of colour after Christmas and are looking for a break from all the madness? If yes, you have the opportunity to practice your fav French look a bit more ;-)

Send us a picture taken with your phone of your French look with square shaped nails, from 4 angles, front both hands, both sides and underneath of one hand so we can check the shape, thickness and length. You can send more than 4 pictures and more than one set of nails.

Prize: Ela Loszczykâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recent book! Pictures have to be sent to gallery@yournailsmag.com by 15th March 2016. Picture size min 2MB, please check it before sending it to us. Do not place any writing on the pictures. Pictures cannot be published on the Facebook before the results are announced in the April issue of Your Nails Magazine. Pictures have to be clear enough to see the smile line and also no nail art can be used. The length of nails is your choice, shape has to be square. Gel or Acrylic can be used. Tips or form can be used. Cover gel or acrylic can be used.

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Nail Peeps Q & A

Nail s p e e P

...advice from YOURNAILS Facebook friends

Q1. What is the worst customer nightmare you have ever had? Izabela Kolodziej Izabela Kolodziej My worst customer was a lady who wanted to get long nails but didn’t want to pay for extensions more than she would pay for gel polish application. She wouldn’t grow her own nails either. She damaged her natural nails by filing a regular polish off. She also used to ring me to enquire about the prices that she was well familiar with them and she would pretend she was someone else. Ilona Konsek I have costumer with sick stomach. When we cured her nails in UV lamp, she has told me she had to go toilet. I asked her can we wait 2 min to cure them first. She said Ok. After few seconds she told me: it’s too late. :/ Monica Russo I have a client who is always happy and with a lovely smile on her face. It broke my heart when she came crying one day, asking me to remove all her gel nails because doctors told her she had cancer and she was probably going to have some surgeries... I was used to seeing her smile all the time, seemed like a nightmare and made me so sad...

Monica Russo

Q2. What is the best customer experience that you ever had? Izabela Kolodziej I have lots of lovely customers who appreciate what I do and are always very happy with my work. There’s even one lady that often brings coffee and a chocolate bar for me :) Ilona Konsek I have many regular costumers. But one is special to my heart. She’s always come to my shop with big smile. When I have a bad day she knows how make me smile. Thank you Ann :-* Monica Russo That client who was supposed to have cancer came up a few weeks ago and told me they were wrong, that she had nothing, so she asked me to do the best nails ever. I’ve made a heart Nail Art with crystals (half heart on middle and ring finger) so when she put her two fingers side by side, the heart showed up. She was so happy, and so was I! Ilona Konsek 70

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Trending

Photoshopped Images By Karolina Boczek

rance has banned too thin models on the runways and has also stated that all models’ pictures have to be marked “touched up” if they have been Photoshopped.

Should this law be introduced to the nail industry? So many amazing nail technicians are now photoshopping their nail images so that when you look at them you have the impression you wouldn’t be able to copy them as they are so perfect. How is it done, you wonder? Well, it is only Photoshop. Companies are making money by attracting you to their courses by posting perfectly done nails so that you think they can teach you how to do them exactly the same. Of course there is nothing wrong with adding a bit of light or removing a bit of dust from the surface of the

nails, but to enhance the colours or change the colours completely, or even worse – draw the design with Illustrator rather then a nail art brush, should not be allowed! It’s disgraceful how famous nail artsists would do such a thing to make their work look so magnificent. It is different with magazine covers or ads as you expect them to be perfectly corrected, but if you admire someone and put trust in their skills and want to learn from them and it turns out that all their work was photoshopped before publishing on media sites or their website to a level that you wonder how is it even possible to achieve this perfection then something is wrong with that. contd. overleaf

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Trending

I understand that nail technicians want their work to look perfect, and compared to their competition it looks that they need to make that extra effort to achieve the same result, but it seems that instead of working harder they simply go for a shorter route and use photoshop.

What to be aware of and what to look for to make sure pics aren’t photoshopped? Unnatural Light – All pictures have a small stripes of light on the nails and it is easy to see if the nails are correctly done as the light bends on the imperfections. If you notice that the light is unnaturally put on the nails or it should be in a different place as opposed to where it’s on the picture then you know that the image has been corrected.

Vibrant colours – You know perfectly well that if you encapsulate gel or acrylic and then apply a thin coat over the top the gel or acrylic colours underneath will lose their saturation a bit. To avoid this, very often nail techs enhance the colour with Photoshop and then when you try to copy their work you seem not to be able to achieve the same effect. They can then try to entice you into purchasing their own products as they say that the products you are using do not achieve the same result!

Very Sharp Edges of the nails – This is a more common correction now to play with the edges of the nails. You know that if you are doing someones nails, especially if they are gel or acrylic, the edges of the nails are a bit rounded even if you try to make them very sharp. To correct it graphically you can simply erase a bit of the edge to make it look very sharp. All pictures owned by www.elance.com/s/njik/

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Step by Step

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CASE STUDY

by Karolina Boczek If you are interested in sending a case study, please contact Karolina on by Ilona Konsek info@yournailsmag.com.

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Step by Step

CASE STUDY NO :4

SALON ONE COLOUR GEL ON THE FORM As this client wanted to make her nails just a little bit longer and her nails were in good condition I decided to use forms instead of tips. My decision was determined by the length of her natural nails, to extend them with gel, rather than filing them off and gluing the tips on. This also prevents the nails from becoming weaker. The client also decided she would go for a full colour so I decided to use clear builder gel. Using forms in this situation shortens the time of the treatment as itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to apply forms. 1. I started by removing the cuticles and buffing the nails slightly. I filed the nails evenly on both sides to make sure the form would fit firmly and the

2. Fit the forms firmly under the nails. If you are not comfortable with forms you can apply a form on one nail at a time then apply gel and cure in the lamp. This way you reduce the risk of

file when the form is removed. You can apply one thick coat if the nail is short to reduce your timing, or two coats to achieve

the desired apex and shape. Be aware of the sides, as itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to miss the spot and this might make the nails weak and break. Cure it for a full 2 minutes.

shape of the natural nail would not change the shape of the form. I wiped the nails with 70% isopropyl alcohol and waited until it dried. You could then apply the primer of your choice, if necessary.

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the client moving her hand and causing the form to unglue and spoiling your work. Make sure there are no gaps between the form and the natural nail. Check the position of the form from the front and side. 3. Apply a thin coat of clear gel, dragging the gel down to the form. Make sure you create the desired shape right away as it will make it easier for you to

4. Gently remove the form by holding the finger with your left

Step by Step hand and then pulling the form down and then away. Never pull it up as it might break the extension and you will need to start again. Wipe the residue off. Check if the nails are thick enough and there are no dips. The nails have to be as thick in the middle (apex) as on the sides.

5. Shape the nails into an almond shape. Make sure it is thin near the cuticles and thin at the edge. If the clients is

concerned about the strength of the nails assure them that these nails are as strong as nails built on the tips as a tip is only a guidance for extending the nails. Buff it and remove the

dust. Look at the nails from the side to make sure the shape is correct, ie. that they are not too thick or too thin.

6. My client chose a bright colour. I wiped the nails with cleanser before applying the colour. This makes the dust disappear and lets the brush glide more smoothly on the surface, letting me have more control of it. I always start in the middle of the nail and work up to the cuticle area, leaving a tiny gap. Then I glide down. Continue by adding more colour, first to one side and the other side. Choose the right amount of gel polish on the brush so you don’t allow it to run down to the sides. If you do not have enough on the brush this may cause transparency in some areas and you may end up having to apply a 3rd coat to cover this mistake. Cure.

and crisp. Do the same thing with sides of the nails. It’s easy to let go of the pressure you should apply when applying gel polish to the sides of the nails which can result in the nail looking shabby. Remember, if the second coat is not enough, apply another one. The manufacturers’ instructions usually says you need only 2 coats but if the colour doesn’t cover the nails perfectly, apply one extra coat to achieve perfect coverage and your clients satisfaction. Cure.

8. Apply gel polish top coat and cure. If it’s ‘wipe off’, wait a second before removing the sticky layer as this will prevent the from top coat losing it’s shine. If it’s a ‘no wipe’ top coat, check for any imperfections. If you see any, use your file to correct it. Apply cuticle oil.

7. Apply second coat evenly. You can go closer to the cuticle area if you didn’t with the first coat. The line should be nice

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from the Experts

reasons why your

customers may leave

by Karolina Boczek

Too chatty

Taking too long to do nails

Sometimes you hear stories like, ‘if a nail technician is doing a quick job as opposed to a good job, well you should change your nail technician or’, ‘nails done in an hour can’t be good’. I don’t think it’s totally right, only nail techs who can’t work fast and can’t manage their time say this, which doesn’t mean they are bad, just slow. Has anybody asked the customers about it? Well, yes. Your Nails Magazine has asked over 50 clients would they be happy to wait 2 hrs for their nails to be done and 100% of them said that it is way too long. So if you want to keep your clients and also make more money you need to invest in training in improving your timing.

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This is shocking! How can you be too chatty? We are in Ireland afterall! But what we think is OK is not necessarily OK with your client. Put yourself in their shoes and imagine listening to your problems and stories instead of spending a nice quiet time relaxing and thinking of what you need to do for dinner or just simply listening to the music. Yes, nail technicians who are sometimes too chatty can lose their customers over exposing themselves too much to their customers. Nail technician should listen, nod and smile, never advise on personal matters and never criticise your client for her actions, comment on her look of her fingers saying, oh you have such small fingers, or big fingers etc. You should act as an expert and ensure them they will walk out with a gorgeous set of nails.

Refusing to continue your education You have great clientele even if you have just started and you are making great money. Lots of people are coming for the first time and you have lost track of the people who have never come back. Why? Have you ever wondered why they never called you for refill? Go through your pictures of the nails, look for any imperfections, look for gel on the cuticles, uneven surface of the nails, wide tips, unevenly applied glitter, messy French. You might think you are doing great by getting new clients but the ones that are coming back are the most important. Don’t be harsh on yourself but don’t get lazy - you need to educate yourself all the time.

from the Experts

Talking behind people’s back How many times have you heard from your client, ‘oh this girl who did my nails is so slow and she cut all of my fingers, butchered my nails’. So then we ask who it was and once they tell us we start to talk about them, telling people that we know they are bad etc. This is not very nice topic to be talking about anyway and if it turns out that we are not as good for the client as we thought we were she might go back to the one she got her nails before and say everything what we said about that particular nail tech. So be aware of this situation. If we see a bad job done, we can admit that this is not the best work you have seen and there are areas you would do it differently to avoid all the mistakes and improve the look, or simply say, don’t worry I’ll fix them.

Ranting about other clients on Facebook Over what? Because she has texted you at 11pm or asked for extra nail art when you didn’t have it planned and you said ‘yes’ eventually and because of that you were behind with your other clients? Yes, you do it to yourself. You lose your clients because of your lack of assertiveness and customer service. Don’t rant about it on Facebook that this client did this or that. Instead of this you can simply respond to their silly comments in a nice way or just learn to say no if they put you in an awkward position. Most of your clients are friends on Facebook, right? Most of them contact you via Facebook so remember that they can see your comments about your other clients and think that you might make comments about them one day so they’d rather go somewhere else and never have to worry about it.

Making appointments every 4 weeks All your clients come back to you every 4 weeks thinking they are saving their money and stretching the time between appointments as much as they can. In meantime their nails are breaking, chipping and looking ugly. What if their friend badly comment on the nails? Client feels that you are not doing a good job if they can’t last 4 weeks. What they don’t know is that the nails shouldn’t supposed to be left for so long without getting refilled. It’s not safe and material is getting damaged, scratched and as a result not looking very flattering. So next time book your client a week earlier explaining that it is their risk to leave them for 4 weeks and after 3 weeks nails will be exposed to mechanical damage.

Lack of parking It might seem like a small problem and you think that if they really want to get their nails done they will find parking. I have personally lost a few clients over the hassle they had to go through by looking and paying extra for parking and wasting their time. It made them tired of doing this so they stopped coming to me even though they were very happy with my work. Make sure you do all in your power to make this experience as smooth as possible. If you are planning to rent a place make sure your customers can find parking easily. N O. 20 (1 / 20 16 )

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