ASK THE EXPERT

Rachel Scott Couture

unpicks the jargon surrounding just how your wedding dress is made

With endless weird and wonderful new wedding dress terms to learn, it can seem a little daunting but don’t worry, our expert columnist Rachel is here to guide you through

“It’s always normally my default to encourage brides to abandon the jargon and the rules when it comes to choosing their wedding dress but equally, you still need to be entirely confident in whatever you’re signing up to so a little knowledge can go a long way. Knowing your options on how your dress is made, where it’s made, what bespoke design options you have and ensuring the perfect fit are all things you’ll need to talk through with whoever you’re trusting with your most precious, once-ina-lifetime dress. So let’s get you armed with a brief understanding behind a few key phrases to ensure you feel confident enough to make the right choices and to ask questions!

HOW IS YOUR DRESS GOING TO BE MADE?

Couture – Definitely a term that’s always close to our hearts! Stemming from the original French word for ‘tailoring’ and ‘cloth cutting’, it essentially means the highest quality of cut, tailoring and fit. It represents something entirely custom made to the highest quality standards, using only the finest fabrics and utterly flawless construction techniques.

Made to order – Your dress will be constructed for you after you have placed your order.

This term can technically apply to both construction on a mass industrial scale as well as on an individual artisan basis. Depending on the level of designer, where and how the dresses are made and their chosen working methods, your dress can be made to order using either a standard size pattern or (in the case of the higher level couture designers we work with) using your own ‘made to measure’ pattern.

Not to be confused with ‘Made to order’ - Made to measure is a dress made exactly to your measurements. Made to order simply means your dress is ‘made’ once you ‘order’.

Off the rack – A rail of pre-made dresses you can choose from. Most likely to be a range of standard sizes. This term would still apply whether the ‘rack’ is right in front of you in the shop or it’s in a warehouse or factory storage. You’re choosing a dress from styles that have already been made basically. This version of buying is most like high street fashion shopping as you’d know it, (often referred to as ‘ready to wear’) where stocks of dresses are made ahead of the season so customers can purchase and wear instantly.

HOW WILL WE GET THE RIGHT FIT?

Standard size – Dresses are made using a predetermined set range of sizes. (eg size

10, 12, 14). Each designer/manufacturer will create their own size chart to work from so remember it may be that a size 12 from one designer will be quite different to a size 12 from another.

This is why it’s important to have an expert bridal consultant measure you and listen to their guidance on what size is best. The type of fabric, shape and style of dress can all have an impact on what size is best. Be guided by the measurements, not by the size on the label – the size you choose in a t-shirt, blouse or pair of jeans won’t always be the same as a sculpted corseted gown!

Made to measure – A new pattern is created from scratch based exactly on your own measurements. It would of course follow that a made to measure dress can only be made if you’re also

Nothing demonstrates couture cutting and construction techniques quite like the iconic styling of Vivienne Westwood

These final adjustments will ensure your dress fits you in exactly the way you want it to look and feel. It will potentially include things like the hem length being walkable (or danceable) in your chosen shoes, the straps sit neatly, corsetry is as tight or loose as you prefer and the dress flows across the body in exactly the way you want it to (AND any enhancing bust cups are sneaked in, shhh…we’ll not tell!)

‘Cheryl’ by Halfpenny London

Rolling in Roses Gabrielle PHOTO: Zach & Grace

having your dress made to order but, to be clear, it is possible to have a made to order dress without having it also made to measure.

I’m a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to fit so we tend to opt for the full made to measure service where at all possible.

Alterations and fittings – When your dress arrives in store (THE most exciting thing EVER!), you’ll need final fittings to make sure it fits to total perfection. Due to the inherent pliable nature of fabrics and the natural changes in body shapes, your dress will always need some level of tweaking. That will apply even if you’ve opted for a made to measure and toile fitting service (Although there is potential with those services that your dress will need fewer adjustments).

“I’m a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to fit so we tend to opt for the full made to measure service where at all possible.”

‘Gabrielle’ by Suzanne Neville

HOW WILL WE GET THE RIGHT DESIGN?

Design changes – You might want to change something about a style to make it right for you, perhaps adding sleeves, changing the shape of the neckline or shape of the skirt, exchange fabric types, colours or placement of detailing. Although we have the added flexibility of being able to offer design changes right from the pattern stage, it is not standard across all bridal designers and manufacturers. Depending on the type of design changes you’re looking for though, even with ‘off the rack’ dresses, some creative retailers might be able to personalise your gorgeous wedding dress so it’s always worth an ask!

Toile – Pronounced more like twa-al, although lots of my clients call it a twirl (probably due to my Scottish accent pronouncing it)! It’s sometimes also referred to as Calico due to the fabric most often used. Basically, it’s a practice version of your dress made in a cheaper alternative fabric before your actual glorious fabric is cut and the final dress constructed. It’s used as a mock-up to test out the pattern, design choices and fit of measurements. It is highly likely that, if you opt for a toile as part of your dress construction process, it’ll be made to measure too. You’d attend a toile fitting appointment prior to your dress being cut and finished, allowing for any fitting adjustments and/or design changes to be confirmed and tweaked before your dress is completed.”