Contemporary Fashion Issues

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Chow Ki Yun Yoyo FASM 400 Savannah College of Arts and Design Prof. Christina Kountiou

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Content Introduction to Gucci Present Advertisements Core Value SWOT Analysis Target Market and Positioning Product Offerings Competitors Other Successes Ethical Proposal Innovation

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Introduction to Gucci Gucci is an Italian fashion brand and leather goods label which was founded by Guccio Gucci in 1921. It then transformed into one of the world’s leading luxury fashion brands during the 20th century.

The company’s mission is to become the leader in luxury market at a world-wide level. They aimed to be influential, innovative and progressive, wanted to reinvent a wholly modern approach to fashion. Gucci describes their products as eclectic, contemporary, and romantic. The products represented the pinnacle of Italian craftsmanship and are unsurpassed for their quality and attention to detail. Gucci also made use of their brand position in the luxury market, to

pioneer and promote sustainability.

Moreover, Gucci is part of the Kering group, as a member of the world leader in apparel and accessories that owns a portfolio of luxury and lifestyle brands, including other luxury brands such as Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, and Balenciaga, etc. The group’s mission is to enable their

customers to express their personality and to fulfil their dreams, while making a positive contribution to people and the planet. The Kering group, itself, developed a well-balanced ensemble of 20 brands, from luxury apparel and accessories and sport & lifestyle activities brands. The group provides back-end services to their brands, so the brands can focus on product design and innovation. They

encourage sustainable practices within the industry that can improve the world economically, environmentally, and socially. (Luxury)

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In year 2015, Gucci has decided to move in a fresh direction under the lead of the newly appointed creative director Alessandro Michele. Anorex-

ic thin models were continuously used in the advertisements since the

new direction was introduced. However, earlier in year 2016, the brand was charged of imposing irresponsible

advertisements because of the unhealthily thin models. (Jones)

Gucci responded to the issue, stating that the idea of an unhealthily thin model was to some extent a subjective issue. In addition, they also explained that the models actually

had “slim builds” instead of being “unhealthily thin”. Also, images within the advertisement were shot to make sure none of the models’ bones were visible, which could possibly accentuate thinness.

Light rather than heavy makeup was used to avoid potential accentuation of thinness in features of the model.

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The Advertising Standards Authority disagreed with Gucci’s response to the issue. They considered one of the models in the campaign to be unhealthily thin, and therefore concluded that the advertisement was irresponsible. They

told Gucci to make sure they will use responsible images of models in its future advertising campaign. (Sweney, 2016)

In addition, after visiting two of the clothing stores of Gucci in Hong Kong, one of which located in Landmark in Central, and the other one located in Times Square in Causeway Bay. It was discovered that both stores do not offer an extensive size range on their products. Most garments have the largest size of 42, and smallest of 38.

Only a limited number of styles offer a small amount of size 36. The same situation applies to the stock available in their online store as well. From this, we may learn that the

brand’s target customer is obviously towards people with smaller sizes. People of large sizes may feel harder to find clothing that can fit them.

Though the company was led by an ethical company, Kering group, which emphasized in promoting sustainability and ethical business practices, however, this kind of ethical issue related to body image, and a subject that oppose to the company’s mission as a socially responsible company still happens. Does this imply insufficiency in regulating operations of the brands? Or does it simply symbolized that most people were not conscious to the issue on body images within the fashion industry?

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Present Advertisements

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Core Value Gucci was known as one of the most famous luxury brands, which provides exclusive, regal, and timeless products.

Over the past 90 years, the brand has stayed true to their core inspiration of their outstanding craftsmanship, quality, and innovation. They valued the qualities of their products, payed close attention from pricing, presentation, distri-

bution and packaging, to fine customer services at the stores. Wanted to create a different experience and connection to customers from the other brands.

Under the guide of Kering group, the brand also maintained ethical business practices, strictly avoid sweatshops, child labour, and pollution problems in their production process.

They also actively participate in promoting sustainable fashion, and introduce eco-friendly products. In addition, the brand worked hard to carry out social responsibility to

bring about positive influences to the society.

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SWOT Analysis

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Strength

Weakness

• Gucci carries a well-known brand name, and has worldwide influences to the fashion industry.

• Famous for their well-crafted goods, which is sustainable and durable.

• A healthy brand image on the environmental aspect.

• They started to launch products that use environmental friendly materials to produce, such as the innovative sunglasses made in liquid wood. (Gucci’s) • They designed the packaging to be recyclable, and in foldable format to reduce stocking space and CO2 emissions in the shipping process as weight and number of loads is reduced.

• Initiated a Corporate Social Responsibility certification process for its entire production cycle in 2004. It certified the brand’s values on business ethics, respect for human rights, workers’ health and safety, and equal opportunities.

• Show awareness to issues that were happening in society, act as a socially responsible company.

• May affect the society easily with any acts they do.

Caused by their well-known brand name and influential to the industry.

• The brand did not entirely carry out social responsibility as stated in their vision. They were blamed for using unhealthily thin models in their advertisement.

• Brought about misconceptions to the public on body image.

• Supported the improper practice in the industry, for using unhealthily thin models to be the face of their brand.

• There are just a few eco-friendly products of the brand being launched till today.

• When facing criticisms on the company’s last campaign about the unhealthily thin models used, their reply towards people’s blames was immature and showed ignorance to how the public may perceive the advertisement and how it can affect the society in general. (Sweney, 2016) • Their postion as a socially responsible company was affected.

Opportunity • The brand can improve the quality of their mod-

els in the next advertisement campaign.

• Show people that they are actually conscious to model’s health and image, and bring about positive influences to people for their perceptions on body image.

• Continue to launch and design more eco-friendly products, so to show their support on environmental issues and sustainable development further.

Threat • Has to face critiques from the general public about

their last advertisement.

• It may need some time and effort for the brand to rebuild their image as a socially responsible and ethical brand in the future.

• A bad image for the brand was already implemented into the general society.

• The brand may be blamed for not being honest for their acts and value do not match.

• They may lose people’s trust and loyalty.

• As the company did not actively introduce eco-friendly products and implement sustainable strategies, they may have to face even more negative comments from society.

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Target Market and Positioning According to observation of customers in store and their product type offerings, Gucci’s target customers are both male and female, mainly of age between 20 to 50 years old.

Their customer profile has primarily included celebrities, the wealthy, fashionistas, and the upper class.

Moreover, with the brand’s later extension to their kid’s wear collection, they have also added children as part of their new target market. (Consumer) The brand is positioned as a high-end luxury brand which provide a wide range of luxury goods of high quality. Alongside with other luxury brands such as Chanel and Louis Vuitton, Gucci is known as one of the world’s largest Luxury Goods brand in terms of revenue and profitability.

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Product Offerings

Gucci Ghost Sweatshirt HKD $1350 Size: Xs to L

Gucci Print Cotton T-shirt HKD $590 Size: XS to L

Embroidered Hooded Sweatshirt HKD $4500 Size: XS to L

Flower Print Cotton Tee HKD $795 Size: S to M

Swearshirts and T-shirts 18

Porcelain Garden print silk skirt HKD $1980 Size: XS to M

Wraparound Skirt with Web HKD $750 Size: XS to L

Skirts

Knit Wool Skirt HKD $1200 Size: XS and L Gucci Ghost Skirt HKD $3600 Size: XS and L

(G.)

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Embroidered Wool Cape HKD $3800 Size: 42

Single-breasted Wool Coat HKD $1980 Size: 42 to 46

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Horsebit Jacquard Wool Coat HKD $4600 Size: 36 to 46

Coats and Fur

Faux Kidassia fur coat HKD $4400 Size: 38 to 44

Viscose Jersey Ruffle Dress HKD $8500 Size: 36 to 42

Crepe Silk Wool Dress HKD $2800 Size: 38 to 44

Dresses

Flora Snake Print Silk Dress HKD $5100 Size: 38 to 46

Viscose Jersey Ruffle Dress HKD $1980 Size: XS to XL

(G.)

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Competitors Competitors

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Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton was named the world’s most valuable luxury brand for almost a decade. It was founded over 150 years ago, by a French box-maker and packer called Louis Vuitton.

The brand developed from humble beginnings in the French countryside, to a famous international luxury brand now-a-days. The house also expanded their offering to include bags, clothing, accessories and jewelry. Alike Gucci, Louis Vuitton targets the high-end luxury market customers, who have the ability to purchase luxury goods, and it is positioned as a high-end luxury brand within the industry.

Louis Vuitton has cultivated a strong celebrity following under Marc Jacob’s direction, as he joined the brand as creative director since 1997. Many models, actors, and musicians have been the face of the brand. The brand is aiming to influence their customers with celebrity effects. (Holborow, 2012)

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Versace Versace is an Italian brand which contains a blend of glamour, sexiness and high end couture. (Versace) They target to urban people who have high purchasing power and love to invest in classic designs and elegant couture. Products of the brand shows a luxury feel along with a chic and sophisticated design in modern aesthetics. The brand offers a wide variety of products, which includes their men’s, women’s and kid’s wear to home collections and perfumes, watches and even mobile phones. Versace is positioned as the same level as Gucci, and hence, is seen as one of the greatest competitors of the brand.

Versace tried to promote diversity in their campaign.

From one of the picture in Versace’s fall 2016 advertising campaign, they pictured a racially-diverse family.

The advertisement featured 21-year-old celebrity Gigi Hadid as a birth mother of two kids, toting around two children, together with a black model as her partner, while wearing Versace’s latest collection. The ultimate goal of the campaign is to move from fashion fantasy to actuality, and put together all kinds of very diverse families in the pictures. Once again, diversity is aimed to be promoted within the brand’s advertisement campaigns. (Swartz, 2016) (Colon, 2016)

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Balmain Balmain is an haute couture fashion house which was founded by Pierre Balmain in 1945 Paris. (The) The brand maintained an elegant and super-feminine look which was favored by European royalty and Hollywood fashion plates throughout their history.

The brand is positioned as a high-end luxury brand like Gucci, with their well-known mastery of tailoring, embroidery and traditional techniques of classic couture. They also offer wide range of high-end fashion products, which included women’ wear, men’s wear, kid’s wear, and fragrances. (Balmain)

Balmain’s Oliver Rousteing as a pioneer to show diversity in the luxury industry.

With the lead of creative director Oliver Rousteing, he has brought his vision and aesthetic about being mixed and diverse to the brand. Rousteing wanted to promote the need to believe in different races, backgrounds and cultures through fashion, therefore, he casted models of different backgrounds in his campaigns and runways. Balmain has valued promoting ethnicities, more diversities and strong women as their priority, and has been leading the way for years. (Horne, 2016) (Okwodu, 2016) (Aldenton, 2015)

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Other Successes

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Dove Dove has established a healthy brand image which initiates conversation about real beauty and self-esteem over the past few decades.

The brand has tried to define “real beauty” in their campaigns. Diversified types of models were used in the advertisement, with the slogan “Real Beauty Campaign”. We can see different models of different skin and hair color, body shape, and appearances in the picture. It shows beauty in different women. Unlike the advertisements which only showed skinny models, this campaign had shown variety types of people, in which most of the audience can easily relate themselves to the picture.

It broke the normal standard which stated slim as the only standard for beauty.

Different short films were introduced alongside with the campaign. For instance, there is one that showed how girls feel about their beauty starts with how their mother about theirs, by comparing what the five pairs of mother and daughter liked and not liked about the way they look. At the end of the film, the mothers and daughters were discovered to have similar answers to the question.

It showed that standards of beauty were inherited from our parents. Children take in what their parents think of beauty as their standard to view the issue. Hence, we should clearly educate our next generation the right perception to view beauty.

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H&M Diversity is a controversial topic among the fashion industry right now. In H&M’s new television advertisement, they featured a range of women including plus-size models in their underwear, lesbians, transgender woman, black women with natural hair, women with shaved heads, a muscular woman, armpit hair, a septuagenarian, etc. The campaign was aimed to feature “normal women doing normal things”, they could be the sort of people that you would see on the train on your way to work, it can also be the sort of people you are friends with, and most important of all, they are the sort of people who shops at H&M. Message behind the campaign is to empower women to celebrate their own individuality in identical H&M clothes. As the fashion and advertising industry have always spent their efforts in reinforcing the idea that femininity has to look a certain way. The default woman should be straight, thin and white, and has the right amount of hair in the right places.

With the success of H&M’s campaign on diversity, we see that there is possibility for fashion brands to break through the mainstream standard that should be shown on the screen for promoting a brand’s image. We also see that things are slowly changing, by focusing diversity on–screen, it helps the brand to drive a conversation and real change when it comes to diversity off screen.

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Lane Bryant Lane Bryant is a retailer who focus their business on plus-size fashion. The company sells clothing starting at size 14. Their product offerings include clothing, lingerie and sleepwear, as well as accessories with innovative maternity designs.

In year 2015, Victoria’s Secret introduced an ad campaign that pictured a group of slim-built women with the tagline “The Perfect Body”. In response, Lane Bryant created a campaign with a similar shoot which featured a group of plus-size models with the tagline “ImNoAngel”. Women were then encouraged to share their redefinition of what sexy means during the campaign on instagram, in which many people has responded to it.

The campaign was said by the company that is designed to empower all women to love every part of herself.

And the message about diversity, no matter if it’s about different body types or skin colors, brands are actively engaged to promote it within the fashion industry.

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Ethical Proposal In the past decade, one of the mainstream standard for advertisements produced by luxury brands in the fashion industry is to show sexiness in the models. We can see from more affordable luxury brands like Abercrombie & Fitch to higher-end luxury brands like Gucci and Balmain. Sexiness of models, or in a seducing pose can be easily found in visuals of their advertising campaigns.

While recently, some of the luxury brands like Louis Vuitton have started to change their strategies on the way that they promote their brands. More covered up models are used in more recent advertising campaigns. Brands no longer use sexy models to represent their brands, instead, they are searching for a more

conservative image on their models.

Gucci, has also followed closely to the mainstream. In their newest campaign, which promoted their 2016/2017 collection, we see models wearing clothes to cover their flesh up. However, another controversial problem was caused. The brand was blamed for using unhealthily slim models in their campaign.

Our proposal will aim to improve this ethical issue, by changing the aesthetics of Gucci’s next advertising campaign. The process of casting models will be more strict and careful, to ensure models that will represent the face of the brand are healthy and beautiful. Also, different standards of beauty for the

brand from the 1990s till today will reappear on the screen once again. This can inform the audience about how the brand’s presentation of body image was evolved throughout their history, with the lead of different creative directors. And that the brand is willing to continue in developing and changing, to adapt to the new standard within fashion industry, which is promoting diversity.

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In order to promote a healthy image of Gucci through their advertising campaigns, we can choose someone who is influential to society and holds a healthy image to represent the brand. Therefore, an ideal spokesperson for the brand will be a celebrity or idol who also promotes a healthy lifestyle and body image in their private lives.

The New Face of Gucci

“I’m never going to starve myself for a part.. I don’t want little girls to be like, ‘Oh, I want to look like Katniss, so I’m going to skip dinner.’”

- Jennifer Lawrence

Jennifer Lawrence is one of the few celebrities within Hollywood to refuse losing weight for the movies. Instead, she focused on working out and get strong. The Hollywood is held accountable for the kinds of message it conveys about size, beauty and feminity. The reason behind Jennifer’s act is to tell the public that unhealthily lose weight is an inappropriate act, and that there are more healthier ways to maintain a beautiful body image.

Therefore, she can be a potential spokesman or model to promote Gucci’s campaign concerning body image.

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The New Campaign The campaign will be picturing the new face, Jennifer Lawrence, in a totally new way, and shows a slogan stating, “The world will be a better place if everyone can be beautiful.� The true meaning behind this slogan is to follow footsteps of other fashion brands in promoting diversity through fashion, saying that everyone can be beautiful, one do not have to change themselves in order to go with the norm. People of any body size can be beautiful. So to encourage the younger generations not to lose themselves to achieve what everyone else thought is beauty.

Promoting a healthy body image does not have to necessarily mean using plus-size models in the brand’s campaign, not is it to introduce plus-size lines to the brand. Promoting a healthy image can mean using someone who is healthy, with a tag-line telling people that anyone can be beautiful, may also be an alternative to promote the idea. Hence, the idea of the campaign was came up in this way.

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A way to deliver the picture is through bill boards and publish images on fashion magzines. We want to maintain the traditional way of delivering the advertisement campaign as this was used by Gucci through out the whole history, and this is the normal practice that is used in the industry.

This is also a way which the message can be exposed to the most amount of audience.

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Innovations Comparing and resizing the products Three T-shirts with a similar aesthetic and same size was chosen from the three brands, Gucci, J. Crew and Zara. Measurments were took in store to see if they differ from one another. It was found that a size-M t-shirt sold in Zara has the smallest actual measurements. Which means that if a person has to wear an M-size in Zara, there is possibility that he/she may wear a size-S if they buy a similar kind of clothing from Gucci or J.Crew.

As vanity sizing is a common malpractice within the fashion industry, it can sometimes confuse a customer of which size they have to wear. For Gucci to act as a socially responsible company, they should resize their products, provide a clear guide on measurments of each size within their product offerings.

An M-sized t-shirt from Zara.

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An M-size t-shirt from Gucci.

An M-sized t-shirt from J. Crew.

Measurments Gucci

J. Crew

Zara

1. Sleeves Length

20cm

18cm

20cm

2. Total Length

63cm

62.5cm

64cm

3. Total Width

45cm

47cm

43.5cm

1.

2.

3.

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Balmain. (n.d.). Retrieved November 5, 2016, from http://www.balmain.com/en_hk/ Horne, C. (2016, May 2). Olivier Rousteing Talks About the Lack of Diversity in Fashion and Why Kanye West Is a F***ing God. Retrieved November 5, 2016, from https://hypebeast.com/2016/5/olivier-rousteing-talks-about-the-lack-of-diversity-in-fashion-and-why-kanye-west-is-a-fing-god Okwodu, J. (2016, March 03). Why Balmain’s Casting Matters. Retrieved November 5, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/13410272/balmain-model-cast-diversity/ Aldenton, S. (2015, July 16). Updated: Balmain continues to be the fashion industry’s ... Retrieved November 15, 2016, from https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/ balmain-racial-diversity/ Holborow, O. (2012, June 21). Louis Vuitton. Retrieved November 5, 2016, from http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/louis-vuitton Pike, H. (2015, October 11). Between the Catwalk and the Consumer: Fashion’s Growing Diversity Gap. Retrieved November 5, 2016, from https://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/between-the-catwalk-and-the-consumer-fashions-growing-diversity-gap-2 Mahdawi, A. (2016, September 28). H&M’s diverse advert mirrors the real world. Shame the ad industry doesn’t | Arwa Mahdawi. Retrieved November 5, 2016, from https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2016/sep/28/hm-advert-diversity-ad-women Wilkes, D. (2016, September 28). Does H&M’s new advert really sum up what it means to be a lady? | Daily Mail Online - http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/ article-3808800/Does-H-M-s-new-advert-really-sum-means-lady.html. Retrieved November 15, 2016, from http://grabpage.info/t/www.dailymail.co.uk/ femail/article-3808800/Does-H-M-s-new-advert-really-sum-means-lady.html Denardo, M. (2015, May 13). Diversity Report: Spring 2015 Fashion Ad Campaigns - theFashionSpot. Retrieved November 5, 2016, from http://www.thefashionspot.com/runway-news/585983-diversity-report-ad-campaigns-spring-2015/ Najarian, T. (2016, January 20). Fashionisers. Retrieved November 5, 2016, from http://www.fashionisers.com/fashion-news/gucci-style-evolution-frida-giannini-alessandro-michele/ Tracing the evolution of Gucci. (2016, March 26). Retrieved November 5, 2016, from http://www.hungertv.com/feature/tracing-the-evolution-of-gucci/

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Appendix

A. Illustrations of ads from history of Gucci.

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Guiding the Model’s Health Models to be used by the fashion industry in all of their advertising campaigns and runway shows should have their health conditions strictly guided by a group of professionals, including doctors and nutritionists. These professionals will provide a guide for the models to maintain a healthy diet, ensure that their weight is at normal level, and provide consultations and assistances to the models if they are suffering from any illness that is popular among the industry, such as eating disorders and anorexia nervosa.

It will be the model’s agencies to implement this strategy to their company, to so to ensure that less models will suffer from the body image issue.

With guidance by these professionals, we can ensure that models that will represent the brand can be of healthy condition, and so to bring about a positive image for the brand in overall.

B. Guiding the Model’s Health

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As creative director of Gucci fom 1994 to 2004, Tom Ford had created a period for overly sexual ad campaigns in the brand. He showed models in sexy outfits, and holding sexy poses within the advertisements.

This aesthetic has been continued on Gucci’s path of selling sex, while the other houses in the industry have started to create more covered up approach.

The aesthetic of this period for Gucci’s campaign shows freedom and sexiness in their body image.

C. Concept board idea

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D. Concept Board Idea

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E. Concept Board Idea

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