Global Cosmetic Industry, GCI June

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CONTENTS JUNE 2015

n VOLUME 183, NUMBER 5

features 22 Mass and Efficacy

The two key factors in hair care growth.

BY ORU MOHIUDDIN

24 Pack in the Benefits

Ensuring secondary packaging pays off.

BY LISA DOYLE

28 Nature-inspired Innovation

The intersection of R&D and consumer consciousness.

BY SARA MASON

34 Wearables: A Beautiful Future

How emerging tech is putting consumers directly in control of their diagnostics and beauty product selection.

BY RAHUL MEHENDALE

columns 4 Starting Point: Is “Innovation” Over?

BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

departments 6 Go: Innovations, ideas and insights 12 Street Level: New products, promotions and events 17 Fragrance Focus: News about the fragrance industry 20 Added Value: Ideas through people, places and things 38 Wrap Up: The latest in packaging innovation 42 Main Ingredients: Ingredients now on the market

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1506_TOC-Masthead_irv.indd 1

resources 46 Products & Services Showcase 48 Advertiser Index

Subscribe to GCI’s Weekly Newsletter The latest news, trends and insights will be delivered straight to your inbox every week. Subscribe for free at:

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Contents

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EDITORIAL Director Editor in Chief

Jo-El M. Grossman Jeb Gleason-Allured 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES Vice President Business Development Manager U.S. (NJ & PA), Canada, Central & South America Business Development Manager All U.S. states except NJ & PA Business Development Manager Europe & Asia Business Development Manager Fragrance Marketing Specialist Coordinator

Brian Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Rourke 1-630-344-6030/borourke@allured.com Tom Harris 1-201-445-4702/tharris@allured.com Kim Jednachowski 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com Jane Evison 44(0)-1430-441685/jane-evison@btconnect.com Paige Crist 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com Brittany Best 1-630-344-6076/bbest@allured.com Kasia Smialkowski 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Director Customer Service

Linda Schmitt 1-888-399-0899/customerservice@gcimagazine.com

DESIGN Manager Senior Graphic Designer Production Manager

Andy Frederick Hon Bannapradist Bryan Crowe

CORPORATE President Controller Group Show Director Digital Products Director Executive Assistant

Allured Business Media 1-630-653-2155 â&#x20AC;˘ fax 1-630-653-2192 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA www.Allured.com European Office: Jane Evison, East Yorkshire, England

Janet Ludwig Linda Getner Sandy Chapin Rose Southard Maria Romero

OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS Alluredbooks Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit Face & Body Spa Conference and Expo Flavorcon Perfumer & Flavorist magazine Skin Inc. magazine World Perfumery Congress

Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published ten times per year as Jan./Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2014. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales.

Single copies: $10; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.)

Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com

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Contents

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Starting

n by JEb Gleason-Allured

Point

Is “Innovation” Over?

A

s an avid “Mad Men” viewer and New Yorker, one of my all-time favorite Peggy Olson quotes is: “Those people—in Manhattan—they are better than us. Because they want things they haven’t seen.”

New York borough chauvinism aside, what I love about that line is the idea that one should aspire to conceive of the heretofore unseen. To me, that’s innovation. Yet that word, which we all hear and read about endlessly—particularly in the beauty sector—has become worn out, tired.

“Innovation has become the new buzzword, but its overuse and generalization has caused more instances of eye rolling than actual innovation.”

Michael O’Bryan of 360 Thinking wrote those sage words in Wired. In 2013. So, is innovation over? Is it time for a new term of art or way of thinking about newness?

Alien Thinking Jeb Gleason-Allured

Editor in Chief

GCI MAGAZINE Editorial Advisory BOARD Alisa Marie Beyer

Coastal Salt & Soul

MARIE ALICE DIBON

Alice Communications, Inc.

Ada Polla

Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group

Art Rich, phD

A. Rich Development

Rick Ruffolo

R4 Innovations

Cristina Samuels

Mode Cosmetics

Laura Setzfand Epiphany

During the latest, excellent edition of the Beauty Biz Roundtable Series in Santa Monica, California, GlamGlow cofounders Glenn Dellimore and Shannon Dellimore discussed the ways in which they built their brand on unique ways of thinking about beauty. Glenn Dellimore asked the attendees to close their eyes and imagine themselves in a store in a far corner of the universe that was stocked with beauty products for extraterrestrial creatures. What would those products look like? How would they feel? What would they do? Dellimore guessed that whatever the audience was seeing behind their eyelids bore little correspondence to what one would typically imagine of for earth-bound products. He called this type of conceptualization “alien thinking.”

In practice, Shannon Dellimore explained, alien thinking yields concepts no one has previously thought of, novel packaging designs, and adds fun and sexiness to often tiresome elements of the consumer experience such as skin care rituals.

Glenn Dellimore concluded that the majority of products that will drive retailers’ next few years of growth do not currently exist. The yet-to-be-discovered will write the future.

The Disruption Dilemma During their talk, the Dellimores dropped the “d” word: disrupt. We hear this term a lot in the tech world, so much so that, in 2013 (the year we all apparently became sick of overused words), Slate ran the headline “Stop ‘Disrupting’ Everything.”

The question is: what do we mean when we say “disrupt”? I won’t speak for anyone else, but I will at least point out the intent of the term’s originator, professor and author Clayton Christensen. Christensen first conceived of disruptive technologies in his 1997 masterwork, “The Innovator’s Dilemma .” Likely he could not have anticipated how his concept would catch fire and stir the ire of journalists.

“As companies tend to innovate faster than their customers’ needs evolve, most organizations eventually end up producing products or services that are actually too sophisticated, too expensive, and too complicated for many customers in their market,” Christensen has explained. He added, “However, by doing so, companies unwittingly open the door to ‘disruptive innovations’ at the bottom of the market. An innovation that is disruptive allows a whole new population of consumers at the bottom of a market access to a product or service that was historically only accessible to consumers with a lot of money or a lot of skill.”

Land lines versus cell phones. Mainframes versus personal computers. This is what disruption looks like through Christensen’s lens. But is that what our beauty leaders mean?

What’s in a Name?

To me, innovation comprises new ideas, processes and devices. Using the “i” word responsibly should keep it fresh and relevant. On the other hand, Merriam-Webster characterizes “disrupt” in a way that sounds more like the Dellimores and less like Christensen: “to cause (something) to be unable to continue in the normal way : to interrupt the normal progress or activity of (something).”

I will leave it to you to determine if the choice of lingo matters or if the true value lies in the doing. Whatever your view, I look forward to seeing the fruits of this industry’s innovations, disruptions and alien thinking. Here’s to the people who want things they haven’t seen. See you next month. n GCI

4 Starting Point GCI June 2015

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T

Brand Value of Top Cosmetics Companies Up 13% The total brand value of the world’s top 50 cosmetics brands grew from $106 billion to $123 billion, a gain of 13% year-over-year, according to Brand Finance’s 2015 listing of leading performers (www.brandfinance.com).

While the overall industry grew, top brands lost value, including top-five players such as Dove, Pantene and Nivea, as well as Garnier, Olay and Lancôme.

L’Oréal Paris & Avon: A Tale of Two Brands L’Oréal Paris has achieved record value of $11.2 billion, a gain of 15% from 2014’s $9.8 billion. Interestingly, the L’Oreal corporate brand outperformed L’Oréal Paris, growing 26% year-over-year, from $1 billion to $1.26 billion.

Brand Finance credits the company for “maintaining an air of exclusivity,” as well as its marketing and investment focus and brand creation It is therefore no surprise that L’Oréal Paris is the only cosmetics company to have been awarded Brand Finance’s top AAA+ brand rating, which benchmarks future brand potential.

A recent analysis from Trefis (www.trefis.com) noted that L’Oreal, like Estee Lauder, is finding success in an aggressive business environment. That success is driven in part by a responsiveness to consumer trends and segmentations.

When L’Oreal faced high competition, it responded with acquisitions, such as Magic Holdings and Coloright, while supporting brands that appealed to a range of ages from young (Urban Decay) to mature (Age Perfect).

Simultaneously, L’Oreal has maintained a significant R&D program in the service of innovation-hungry consumers. The Trefis analysis notes that L’Oréal’s acquisitions have expanded its footholds in new distribution channels and markets.

Meanwhile, Avon has lost 39% of its brand value in the last year, totaling $3.9 billion, and dropped out of the top 10.

and brand categories, respectively, while Unilever led the marketer category in AsiaPacific, Europe, and the Middle East & Africa.

P&G and Other Top Brands

Global View: Natura

Procter & Gamble has the greatest number of beauty brands listed, including Gillette, Pantene, Olay, Head & Shoulders, Clairol, SK-II, Cover Girl, Max Factor, Old Spice and Wella. Collectively, these brands possess the most value, totaling $27.46 billion, compared to L’Oréal’s $27.11 billion. As it prepares to shed as many as 100 “outlying” brands, the company should see accelerated growth in its core brands, according to Brand Finance.

Procter & Gamble, in addition to Unilever, was recently named as a leading marketer on the 2015 Effie Effectiveness Index (www.effieindex.com). Procter & Gamble and Dove lead North America in the marketer

While most brands hail from the United States, France the United Kingdom and Germany, Brazil’s Natura is the most valuable non-Western brand. Its growth is driven

by Brazil’s increasing affluence and strong demand for beauty products.The company’s brand value has grown 31% year-over-year to $3.2 billion, while its brand rating has been upgraded from AA+ to AAA-.

Though Brazil’s economy is somewhat troubled at present, Natura is set to continue its momentum, perhaps by focusing on recession-proof products as part of the “lipstick effect.”

Read the full list in the table (Page 7).

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The World’s Most Valuable Cosmetics Brands a Rank 2015

arica.

able

y’s to

ue

2015

Rank 2014

Brand

Country of Domicile

Brand Value 2015 (USDm)

Brand Rating 2015

Brand Value Change (%)

Brand Value 2014 (USDm)

Brand Rating 2014

1

1*

L’Oréal Paris

France

11,218

AAA+

15%

9,763

AAA+

2

New

Gillette

U.S.

8,988

AAA

7%

8,409

AAA-

3

5

Dove

U.K.

5,821

AAA-

-1%

5,885

AAA-

4

3

Pantene

U.S.

5,364

AAA

-13%

6,163

AA+

5

4

Nivea

Germany

5,322

AAA

-12%

6,079

AA+

6

13

Chanel

France

4,921

AAA-

9%

4,509

AAA

7

7

Estée Lauder

U.S.

4,792

AAA-

4%

4,589

AA+

8

6

Garnier

France

4,630

AAA

-4%

4,809

AAA

9

9

Olay

U.S.

3,986

AAA-

-2%

4,083

AA+

10

8

Lancôme

France

3,984

AAA-

-3%

4,088

AAA

11

2

Avon

U.S.

3,897

AA+

-39%

6,384

AA

12

10

Johnson’s

U.S.

3,591

AAA

0%

3,603

AAA

13

15

Clarins

France

3,550

AA+

36%

2,602

AAA-

14

17

Natura

Brazil

3,220

AAA-

31%

2,465

AA+

15

11

Christian Dior

France

3,051

AAA

33%

3,329

AAA-

16

14

Maybelline

France

2,814

AAA

-4%

2,921

AAA

17

12

Head & Shoulders

U.S.

2,577

AA+

-13%

2,953

AA-

18

16

Shiseido

Japan

2,353

AA+

-6%

2,507

AA

19

18

Neutrogena

U.S.

2,122

AAA

-8%

2,313

AAAAA+

20

New

Palmolive

U.S.

1,997

AA+

8%

1,850

21

21

Rexona

U.K.

1,838

AA+

18%

1,563

AA

22

20

L’Occitane

France

1,818

AAA-

16%

1,570

AA+

23

19

Mac

U.S.

1,776

AA+

8%

1,639

AAA-

24

22

Schwarzkopf

Germany

1,630

AAA-

7%

1,517

AA-

25

31

Kanebo

Japan

1,585

AA+

36%

1,163

AA-

26

26

Sunsilk

U.K.

1,446

AA+

17%

1,232

AA

27

30

Lux

U.K.

1,377

AA+

18%

1,169

AA

28

New

Clairol

U.S.

1,298

AA+

7%

1,213

AA-

29

23

The Body Shop

France

1,278

AAA-

-16%

1,514

AAA-

30

1*

L’Oréal (Corporate)

France

1,262

AAA+

26%

1,002

AAA+

31

29

Vichy

France

1,225

AAA-

4%

1,173

AAA-

32

28

SK-II

U.S.

1,205

AA+

2%

1,177

AA-

33

25

Cover Girl

U.S.

1,192

AA+

-4%

1,242

AA-

34

33

Clinique

U.S.

1,120

AA+

4%

1,077

AAA-

35

27

Rimmel

U.S.

1,118

AA

-6%

1,188

AA-

36

32

Max Factor

U.S.

1,115

AA+

-3%

1,144

AA-

37

24

Oriflame

Luxembourg

1,038

AA+

-25%

1,388

AA-

38

35

Bioré

Japan

1,007

AA+

4%

964

AA

39

New

Revlon

U.S.

903

AA

40

36

Old Spice

U.S.

903

AAA-

6%

853

AA-

41

New

Wella

U.S.

827

AA+

42

44

Sulwhasoo

South Korea

807

AA-

84%

439

AA-

43

39

Pond’s

U.K.

785

AA+

13%

696

AA

44

37

Biotherm

France

704

AAA-

-10%

778

AAAA+

45

40

Pola

Japan

677

AA

6%

638

46

48

Kosé

Japan

677

AA

68%

402

A+

47

34

Yves Saint Laurent

France

612

AA-

-41%

1,030

AAAAA+

48

38

Clean & Clear

U.S.

609

AAA-

-14%

710

49

New

Hera

South Korea

602

AA-

50

41

Coty

U.S.

559

AA

0%

560

AA

According to a Brand Finance analysis; *L’Oréal Paris and the L’Oréal corporate brand were combined in previous years, hence the same rank in 2014

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Vloggers

vs Beauty Brands

Digital influencers are squeezing out brands, according to a new analysis.

U.K. beauty vloggers overwhelmingly own first-page visibility for brand and non-brand search results on YouTube, while U.S. vloggers own 67% of first-page search results for brand terms, according to a new report from L2 (www.l2inc.com).

In France, meanwhile, brands possess a tiny audience compared to vloggers.

Brands have noticed, in some cases partnering with key digital influencers to improve their positioning in online searches.

“For example,” L2 notes, “Clean & Clear has partnered with vlogger channels that garner 60x the views of the brand channel for identical videos.”

Top blogger beauty influencers can earn as much as $41,475 per month, according to a recent ranking from Adweek, highlighting the financial incentives for these key brand ambassadors.

Top influencers include Yuya, Zoella and CuteGirlsHairstyles.

Women’s

Spending to Rise

A recent Q&A with Euromonitor analyst Media Eghbal outlines the growing power of women consumers (www.euromonitor.com). According to Eghbal, men’s annual disposable income per capita will outpace that of women through 2030: $14,317 vs $9,315. Despite this, women will make many of the spending decisions on consumer goods, particularly beauty and personal care, meaning women are likely to outspend men.

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2015

Samples Drive Purchases

According to a recent analysis by Euromonitor’s Nicole Tyrimou (www. euromonitor.com), samples are key drivers for beauty categories, driven by consumers’ desire for new products, size restrictions for travel, innovative startups, beauty sampling services, growing e-commerce and Christmas beauty advent calendars.

According to Euromonitor, these applications allow consumers to find and try products without having to make a purchase or procure a sample. Recent examples of this technology include L’Oréal’s Make-Up Genius app, the ModiFace virtual makeover app, and Sephora’s Pantone Colour IQ and Skin Care IQ search.

According to Euromonitor International’s survey, free samples are the fourth greatest influencer on purchases behind past experiences, friend and family recommendations, and price. France, Germany, the United States and the United Kingdom are the markets most influenced by samples, which has boosted beauty box subscription services such as Glossybox and Birchbox. However, says Tyrimou, those subscription services have become “a beauty offering of their own.”

Samples’ impact on buying decisions was greatest in fragrances, with about 40% of consumers listing them as a top-five influencer, led by France, the United States, Spain, Brazil and Germany. China, where fragrance is an emerging category, was the only outlier.

Slow Growth Alert: Latin America Consumer spending in Brazil is set to grow at just 0.6% in 2015, according to a new Euromonitor report (www.euromonitor.com).

The analysis notes that Brazil accounted for 53.3% of value sales in beauty and personal care in Latin America in 2014, meaning tough times lie ahead for the industry. Meanwhile, Euromonitor is forecasting 1.9% growth for Latin America in 2015.

Euromonitor succinctly notes that “business will have its work cut out to part Brazilians from their money in 2015.”

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Simple, Convenient, Effective: At-home Beauty Devices on the Rise The at-home beauty device market grew 14% in 2014, according to a new report from Kline & Co. (www.klinegroup.com).

teens with acne issues to baby boomers living active lifestyles looking to maintain their youthful appearance without surgical procedures. Many of our consumers have had light therapy treatments professionally through their dermatologist or spa and have transitioned to continuing these treatments at home.”

At-home Solutions Growth leaders include wearable mask devices, including La Lumière’s illuMask brand of wearable LED light masks. The product is available in Anti-Acne and AntiAging variants and costs $29.95.

The products appeal to mass-market consumers, according to Kline, creating new traction.

“With price points at two ends of the spectrum from under $30 to over $500, new companies jumping on the beauty devices bandwagon, and existing brands expanding their portfolio beyond cleansing and hair removal, this market has evolved into a very competitive place for manufacturers,” said Karen Doskow, director at Kline’s consumer products practice. “With a wider range of prices and product choices, it has also become much more accessible to a larger consumer base.”

TRIA’s Age-Defying Laser and the Skin Smoothing Laser by Iluminage Beauty, as well as new introductions from brands such as RIO and Beurer in Europe, are driving the anti-aging segment’s double-digit growth, according to Kline.

Global View: Cleansing, Antiaging & Microdermabrasion Cleansing is the fastest-growing skin care concern in Europe, China and South Korea, while anti-aging devices are boosting the U.S. market.

In Europe,the professional skin care sector drives innovation, with Philips, Home Skinovation and Beurer launching at-home devices for microdermabrasion. A new microdermabrasion-type product was also introduced for lips in 2014 by Bliss (Steiner Leisure) with its Fabulips “Pout”-o-matic Spa Powered Lip-Perfecting System.

In Asia, multinational brands have entered the Chinese and South Korean markets, including Refa (MTG), Clarisonic (L’Oréal) and Clinique (Estée Lauder). Local Asian brands in each country have been in flux.

The Consumers Nelson says the evolution of the category: “As the trend [toward] prevention in aging continues, we see an increase in late 20s and early 30-year-old women migrating to these devices in [an effort] to delay the onset of aging.” He adds that users range from early teens to late 70s.

How it Works

The Essentials, which retails at Target.com for $79, represents an accessible pricepoint, which is driving at-home beauty devices.

Case Study: reVive Recently, Lloyd Nelson, president and CEO of LED Technologies, discussed the reVive Light Therapy (www.revivelighttherapy.com) devices, developed in alliance with kathy ireland Worldwide, and the dynamics of the fast-growing home beauty device category.

The products are used by consumers to treat various stages of aging in their face, neck, chest and hands. The Essentials retails for $79 at Target Stores and, as of May, The Clinical retails at $169 at Kohl’s, and The Professional Panel for $349 at Macys.com and Nordstrom.

“The overall LED Light Therapy device category is driving the growth within the dermatology device category,” says Nelson, “and as consumer awareness grows, more and more people are taking advantage of this allnatural method to treat skin disorders.”

He adds, “Within the dermatology segment of light therapy, our customer is primarily female. She ranges from early

A gree time Th garn day. acco retu

“Light therapy has been utilized by skincare professionals for well over 30 years,” says Nelson. “The science is proven and tested.”

The reVive Light Therapy employs medicalgrade LED lights to deliver particular light spectrums to elicit cellular responses that lead to anti-aging effects, according to Nelson.

Each spectrum is tied to specific effects.

• Non-UV blue light has antibacterial properties in the fight against mild to moderate acne. It also stabilizes oil glands and soothes inflammation.

• Infrared light, invisible to the naked eye, penetrates the skin deeper than all other spectrums to replenish dermal and epidermal cells, stimulate collagen and elastin production, and speeding up healing processes for anti-aging and wound-healing effects.

• Red light prompts cellular repair and increases circulation, thereby improving complexion. Red and infrared LED lights can be deployed simultaneously for maximized skin rejuvenation.

• Amber light imparts a “glow” to skin and reduces the appearance of redness, swelling and inflammation, particularly for rosacea and sunburns.

• Several lights may be used simultaneously with no loss of effect, thereby reducing the amount of time required for multiple treatments.

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The reVive Light Therapy technology is intended to “extend” and “augment” the life of consumers’ professional skincare services such as topicals, skin peels and facials, rather than replace them, says Nelson. He adds, “This device will allow the professional to extend their treatments outside of the office visit into the daily regimen of the client.”

l

Evolution of the Technology

y ve ts

g nd se

y

Various LED light frequencies address specific skin issues such as inflammation, wound repair and circulation.

Absorption of topicals such as copper and green tea extract can be enhanced three to 12 times by using the technology.

The recommended treatment time to garner results is at least 3 minutes per day. The technology is FDA-cleared and, according to Nelson, has resulted in a product return rate below 0.5%.

re

LED technology is evolving rapidly, according to Nelson. This includes the emergence of professional-grade lights and energy delivery that pose no health or safety risks to the consumer. This, paired with a “lifestyle”focused design philosophy, have allowed the reVive Light Therapy brand to deliver new levels of functionality to consumers in-home.

The key, says Nelson, is keeping treatments “simple, convenient and effective.”

At Retail The product is merchandised in both skincare and device/technology sections of retailers, says Nelson. Though the technology is simple,

the brand does offer in-store training by beauty advisors for consumers.

What’s Next “We want people to look forward to their treatment time as a time to not only enhance their skin but a time to enjoy and relax,” says Nelson.

As a result, reVive is focused on enhancing the effectiveness of devices and the incorporation of relevant features.

Nelson says, “We are exploring options like embedding audio ports and Bluetooth into our panels to allow the user to experience relaxing moments in time while they perform their skin care treatment. We are also looking at multiple attachments that will work with our systems to allow the user to experience their treatments in ways that are more convenient or relaxing at home. Attachments like a flexible stands or headboard attachments to allow a user to lay in bed and treat themselves ‘hands free’ are great examples of where we are looking to go with this product.”

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Dear Clark

Dear Clark has launched its “apothecary-inspired” haircare product line, which comprises the Resurrecting Wash for dry and overstressed hair, Resurrecting Rinse, Smoothing Elixir, Thickening Balm and Finishing Salve. The products are manufactured in Texas using regional ingredients, including aloe vera for moisture; sunflower seed oil for UV heat protection, moisture and color preservation, and rose of Jericho for rejuvenation, hydration and antiaging. The products are sulfate- and paraben-free. www.dearclark.com

Fashion Makeup

ModelLauncher Cosmetics has launched a line of fashion makeup “for aspiring models and all women around the globe.” The 27 products comprise soft, neutral and vibrant shades for the eyes, lips and face, and range in price from $12 to $40. The shades are designed to work across a wide spectrum of skin tones and provide hydration and SPF 15 protection. A glowing effect can be achieved by adding the company’s sheer matte bronzer and mineral blush. The line includes gel and liquid liners, an assortment of lip formulations and 30 shades of eye shadow. www.modellauncher.com

ModelLauncher Cosmetics

Men’s Haircare

new products, promotions and events

Damaged Hair Vibrancy

Redken

Redken has launched Diamond Oil, which strengthens and adds shine to dull and damaged hair. The product is constructed with Redken’s Shine Strong Complex, which comprises apricot, camelina and coriander.

According to the company, “The camelina and apricot oils fill the gaps in the intra-cellular layer to increase flexibility and luminosity.”

Reinforcement of the hair comes from the company’s Interlock Protein Network delivery system. The Diamond Oil line includes a shampoo, conditioner, Deep Facets oil, and two silicone-free oils: Shatterproof Shine and silicon-free, 99% natural Shatterproof Shine Intense. The oil can be used as a treatment pre-shampoo, overnight, blended with a mask or conditioner, pre blow-dry and on dry hair. www.redken.com

BRAND NEWS 3-D Printed Skin Focus of L’OrÉalOrganovo Deal

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L’Oréal, which has been pursuing skin-testing models, and Organovo have entered into an agreement surrounding 3-D printed skin tissue for use in cosmetic testing protocols. The technology could conceivably allow L’Oréal to test ingredients and products on printed skin tissue models without impacting humans or animals.

Commercial terms were not disclosed.

The agreement gives L’Oréal exclusive access to the skin tissue models for the development, manufacturing, testing, evaluation and sale of non-prescription cosmetic, beauty, dermatology and skin care products and nutraceutical supplements.

There remain development, validation and commercial supply phases ahead, which are subject to standard performance criteria and early termination provisions. L’Oréal will make upfront payments and payments for upfront deliverables, which will be subject to licensing and royalty terms.

Coty-Bourjois Cosmetics Deal Completed Coty has completed its acquisition of the Bourjois cosmetics brand from Chanel for a consideration of approximately 15.43 million shares of Coty’s Class A Common Stock. The color cosmetics portfolio is sold through about 23,000 points of sale in more than 50 countries in Western Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Bourjois was founded in 1863 by French actor Joseph-Albert Ponsin, who developed a line of color cosmetics for his fellow actors.

L’OrÉal Boosts Brazil Presence with Niely Cosmeticos As previously reported, L’Oréal has finalized the acquisition of Niely Cosmeticos in Brazil, including its Cor & Ton hair coloration brand and the Niely Gold shampoo and care brand.

Niely Cosmeticos is the largest independent hair coloration and hair care company in the country, which is a leading market in the categories. Its products are positioned for Brazil’s middle class and are distributed via retailers and wholesalers, supermarkets, pharmacies and perfumery chains.

Shiseido Targets Asian Travelers with New Store Shiseido has opened a 19.5-square-meter duty-free store in Terminal 3 of Narita International Airport. The move boosts Shiseido’s travel retail business, which is expanding to meet demand from increased tourism in Japan, particularly travelers from Asia. Depreciation of the yen has helped drive traffic, according to the company. The store offers 24 brands from Shiseido and Elixir. The company’s travel retail business consists of 43 stores at 23 airports, which are run by The Ginza Co. subsidiary. Sales at these stores are rising, up 40% year-on-year, and Shiseido claims the largest in-store share of cosmetics sales. The company already operates a total of eight stores at Terminals 1 and 2 of Narita Airport. Sales at the five stores located at Terminal 1 and the three stores at Terminal 2 increased by 20% and 40%, respectively, year-on-year.

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L’Oréal has reported a sales increase of 14.1% for the first quarter of 2015, with sales totaling 6.44 billion euros.

The results come following L’Oréal’s acquisition of Niely in Brazil and its integration of Magic, NYX, Decléor and Carita.

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The company notes that it is stepping up its e-commerce development and other digital initiatives.

“With like-for-like growth of +4%, the group has made an encouraging start to the year, with performances remaining contrasted by division,” said Jean-Paul Agon, chairman and CEO of L’Oréal. “In an economic context that is still volatile, we confirm that we are confident in our ability to outperform the market this year once again, and to achieve growth in sales and profit.”

Unilever has announced that turnover grew 12.3% for full-year 2014, totaling €12.8 billion.

Luxe: The company noted that L’Oréal Luxe performed well, growing 20.1%. The division recorded good growth overall, and outperformed the worldwide market, especially in Western Europe and in Asia.

Personal care: Personal care turnover grew 2.7% to €4.8 billion. Results were driven by dry spray deodorants in North America and hampered by competition in Europe. Overall, deodorants performed well , particularly with North American dry sprays and the launch of Axe Black.

Yves Saint Laurent recorded strong double-digit growth, led by Black Opium, Volupté Tint-in-Oil and Volume Effet Faux Cils mascara.

In hair, Dove’s Advanced Hair series was successful, while TRESemmé launched its Perfectly (Un)done collection in the United States. The company will also benefit from the acquisition of the REN Skincare brand.

Lancôme started the year well in Europe with the women’s fragrances La vie est belle and La Nuit Trésor, the launch of its Miracle Cushion foundation, and the continuing success of Visionnaire skincare cream.

Emerging and developed markets: According to the company’s annual report, emerging markets now account for nearly 60% of turnover, and grew 5.4% overall in 2014. The company has expanded its distribution capabilities to capture what it describes as a €500-million opportunity in Southeast Asia.

Developed markets, on the other hand, declined 0.7% for the year, impacted in part by price deflation in Europe and somewhat helped by a gradual improvement in the consumer landscape in the United States.

Kate Somerville acquisition: Meanwhile, Unilever added Kate Somerville Skincare LLC to its portfolio of personal care brands. The brand was founded in Los Angeles. It is distributed in the United States, with a growing presence in Asia.

Active Balance Technology is one of Kate Somerville’s key technologies, combining advanced active ingredients with natural botanicals.

“The most photographed faces in Hollywood trust Kate Somerville Skincare for its high-quality ingredients, proven results and touch of glamour. It is a highly differentiated brand that is well placed in the dermocosmetic segment of the skin care category,” noted Vasiliki Petrou, Unilever senior vice president, prestige brands.

Unilever finds global growth potential in Kate Somerville, and looks to expand it into more countries in the near future. Somerville, the brands namesake, looks forward to growing the brand in partnership with Unilever.

“Our treatments, such as Exfolikate and Dermal Quench, have become tried-and-true customer favorites,” commented Sommerville. “Unilever shares our commitment to quality, innovation and bringing consumers the best possible products. Its scale and long history building iconic brands makes Unilever the perfect partner in the next stage of our journey and I’m confident it will take Kate Somerville Skincare to even greater heights.”

Terms of the deal were not disclosed.

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Giorgio Armani grew in beauty and women’s fragrance, in part due to Sì, as well as the launch of the men’s fragrance Acqua di Giò Profumo.

Kiehl’s and Urban Decay continued their strong international expansion.

Professional products: The professional products division saw improvement, growing 16.0% based on reported figures. In geographic terms, the United States and Western Europe continued to grow. In emerging markets, the largest contributors to growth were India and Brazil.

Hair care was boosted by the success of Serioxyl at L’Oréal Professionnel, Chronologiste at Kérastase, Cérafill at Redken and Biolage Cleansing Conditioner at Matrix.

Hair color benefited from the strong momentum of Redken and the solid sales of Inoa at L’Oréal Professionnel.

Essie grew strongly in Western Europe and the United States.

The integration of Carita and Decléor continued.

Consumer products: The consumer products division met forecasts, with moderate gains in North America and a slight decline in Western Europe.

Sales overall grew 11.6% based on reported figures.

According to the company, the division is hampered by weakness in the European market. However, it is gaining market share in North America, Eastern Europe and Spanish-speaking Latin America.

Highlights included Infallible Matte foundation by L’Oréal Paris, Lash Sensational mascara by Maybelline, the strength of NYX, the Extraordinary Oils range, Ultra Doux by Garnier and its forthcoming launch of Olive Mythique, Revitalift Filler at L’Oréal Paris and the success of Micellar Cleansing Waters at Garnier.

The Body Shop: The Body Shop recorded growth of 9.1% based on reported figures. A focus on skin care has boosted results in Europe, the Middle East, North America and Latin America, though there have been challenges in some Asian markets.

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Active cosmetics: The active cosmetics division grew 10.2% based on reported figures, driven by successes with Liftactiv Supreme and the launch of Ideal Body. La Roche-Posay posted double-digit growth on all continents, boosted by the launch of Toleriane Ultra Yeux. SkinCeuticals grew based on the launch of the corrector Metacell Renewal B3.

Emerging markets: Asia-Pacific grew 26.6% based on reported figures, with good performance by L’Oréal Luxe, especially in Greater China, driven

by Kiehl’s, Yves Saint Laurent and Giorgio Armani.

The consumer products division, meanwhile, was lead by its performance in Southern Asia and e-commerce in China. Active cosmetics results were boosted by La Roche-Posay.

Latin America grew 12.0% based on reported figures. The professional products division, active cosmetics and L’Oréal Luxe recorded double-digit growth, driven by L’Oréal Professionnel, Lancôme, Giorgio Armani, Vichy and La Roche-Posay.

Growth in the consumer products division benefited from the performance of Elvive by L’Oréal Paris, and Nutrisse and BI-O by Garnier.

Eastern Europe grew 9.2% on a like-for-like basis. Growth was driven by Russia, Turkey, Ukraine and Poland. The consumer products and professional products divisions and L’Oréal Luxe increased market share in the region.

The active cosmetics division won market share in Russia and Turkey, based on the positive performance of La Roche-Posay.

Africa and the Middle East grew 31.8% based on reported figures, driven

by Elvive by L’Oréal Paris and Ultra Doux by Garnier. Kérastase had good momentum in the professional products division. Giorgio Armani fragrances grew strongly, as are all the brands in the active cosmetics division.

Mature markets: Western Europe recorded first quarter growth of 1.3% like-for-like. The consumer products division gained market share, driven by the skincare and hair care segments.

North American sales grew 2.4% on a like-for-like basis. Growth brands in the region included Kiehl’s, Giorgio Armani and La Roche-Posay. The consumer products division was led by haircare and make-up, while achieving strong growth from NYX and Carol’s Daughter.

Carbon dioxide reductions: The company also recently announced that it has made a reduction of carbon dioxide emissions in the group’s production by 50% in absolute terms, from a 2005 baseline; that 67% of its new products screened have an improved environmental or social profile; and that 54,000 jobs have been created for people from underprivileged communities in social or financial difficulty.

Gender equality: Finally, the company has announced that L’Oréal Russia is the first company in Russia to be certified with the EDGE (Economic Dividends for Gender Equality) global standard for workplace gender equality. The EDGE assessment is the leading business certification for gender equality in the workplace that is universally applicable across industries and countries.

AmazingCosmetics Turns 15 AmazingCosmetics founders Sue Katz and Lisa Thurman have celebrated the company’s 15th anniversary. The company’s top hero product is its creamy, water-resistant “multitasking” AmazingConcealer. Katz notes, “We decided to focus on one thing and be the best at it.” The product, available

in 20 shades, can erase skin issues such as dark circles, broken capillaries, blemishes, uneven skin tone, rosacea and sun damage. The company now has 78 SKUs.

Coty Inc. (New York) has appointed Elio Leoni Sceti as CEO, beginning July 1. Bart Becht, Coty’s current interim CEO and chairman, will remain as chairman following the transition.

Sceti will be responsible for overseeing the growth of the company’s portfolio of fragrances, color cosmetics, and skin and body care brands.

He previously held roles at EMI Music and Iglo Group, where he currently serves as CEO. He also worked for P&G and Reckitt Benckiser. Sceti is currently an independent member of the board of directors of Anheuser-Busch InBev and will remain as a non-executive board member of Iglo Group.

He also serves as chairman of Beamly, a social and content discovery platform around television, and as chairman of LSG Holdings, an investment and advisory boutique. Sceti is also a counselor at One Young World, a global forum bringing together future leaders from more than 160 countries.

“We are extremely pleased to welcome Elio to the top position at Coty,” said Becht. “Elio’s significant experience and proven track record in building successful, global brands will be a tremendous asset to Coty as it continues to enhance its position in the global beauty industry. I have known Elio on a professional level for many years, dating back to our days together at RB, and I firmly believe he is the right leader to oversee the next stage of Coty’s development.”

Sceti added, “I am honored and excited to be joining Coty at this important juncture in the company’s growth. Coty combines my love for building global brands with a passion for innovation and great products that connect with consumers at an emotional level. I believe there is an incredible opportunity to build upon Coty’s established, leading global platform throughout the world, and I look forward to working with all the company’s employees to build upon the amazing collection of Coty global brands and beauty platforms.”

Coty has also appointed Camillo Pane as executive vice president, category development, effective July. Pane succeeds Renato Semerari, who will remain in his role for the transition period.

Pane will also join the Executive Committee and report to Bart Becht, chairman and interim CEO. His experience has included roles at Reckitt Benckiser and Kraft.

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Procter & Gamble CEO According to a Wall Street Journal report, Alan Lafley, CEO of Procter & Gamble, will step down this year, perhaps as early as summer. The news comes as P&G prepares the divestment of as many as 100 brands.

IT Cosmetics Appointments IT Cosmetics has named Robert Mihin as its senior vice president of operations. He has more than 30 years of industry experience and was previously with Benefit Cosmetics. Mihin is responsible for overseeing global operations and logistics. Allison Slater Ray has been named senior vice president of marketing. She has more than 18 years of experience and

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Elio Leoni Sceti

The launch of Drops of Youth Bouncy Sleeping Mask was one of the growth drivers in the quarter.

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was previously with Sephora. Ray will work with founder Jamie Kern Lima and oversee marketing, social and creative department functions.

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Powder Innovations

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The Centre for Process Innovation (CPI) has announced that it is part of an £18-million U.K.-based collaboration to drive the commercialization of new and improved powder-based consumer products, including personal care. The collaboration will develop innovative process and equipment for the manufacture of multicomponent granular products.

The project comprises partners Procter & Gamble, CPI, International Innovative Technologies, Ajax Equipment Ltd., and the Universities of Leeds, Birmingham, Durham and Cranfield. CPI’s role within the project is to host and operate the powder processing and granulating equipment, which will be up and running by September 2015. According to CPI, “At the end of the project, the results achieved will provide a significant stepping stone for these technologies to be commercialized for full scale manufacturing.”

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The Gnarly Whale has launched its Natural Makeup Remover, now available in a 4 oz ($5) or 8 oz ($8) bottle. The product is handmade, unscented, no-scrub, vegan and cruelty-free, appropriate for removing conventional and waterproof eye, face and lip products. The remover is formulated with hemp, olive, jojoba and coconut oils, which sooth irritation and moisturize, and do not clog pores. www.thegnarlywhale.com

Photochromatic Powder

Lady Burd Cosmetics has launched Photochromatic Pressed Powder, finely milled and high-performance powder for use as concealers to minimize appearance of pores and fine lines, or as skin tone eveners. The powders can also be used to set any liquid or cream foundation. The powders photograph true to color. The powder’s key ingredient is hydrogenated lecithin, which reduces skin flaking and restores suppleness, while also helping form emulsions by reducing surface tension of the substances to be emulsified. www.ladyburd.com

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street level Norwegian Skincare

Nordic Beauty has launched a natural skincare brand, Collagen Peptide Serum, which combats aging and increases skin moisture levels via the inclusion of marine collagen peptides from cod skin, which help reduce skin lines and wrinkles and helps prevent further degenerative affects from aging. The products also include organic lingonberry extract and organic iris stem cells. The Collagen Peptide Serum is suitable for all skin types and ages and is available in sizes of 4 oz/120 mL and retails for $285. nordicbeauty.com

Marula Oil Haircare

Organic Beauty

Cuccio Colour has launched its Sweet as Sugar Summer Collection, featuring confectionary-inspired nail colors that are DBP- and toluene-free. Shades include Sweet Tooth, Very Sherbet, Grape to See You, Double Bubble Trouble, Goody Goody Gum Drops, Lemon Drop Me a Line and Sugar Daddy. The products feature an inverted bottle design and a DuPont filament brush. www.cuccio.com

Michael Todd has launched Soniclear, an antimicrobial sonic skin cleansing system, and the Eye Eraser, a hydrating serum infuser with three-inone delivery. The products will be launched at Ulta Beauty. The Eye Eraser will be sold with the Intensive Eye Treatment. Michael Todd skin care will be available online via Ulta, including Honey and Oat Cleanser, Jojoba Charcoal Scrub, and Ageless Face and Neck Cream. The products contain no added water, parabens or triclosan, phthalates or sulfates, mineral oil, artificial color, synthetic fragrance or animal testing. ulta.com

Body Balm

Cuccio Colour

Marula’s Intensive Repair Shampoo and Conditioner restore, strengthen and smooth to rebuild weak, damaged hair and improve manageability. The GlossySoft Reparative Technology transforms dull, damaged hair by gently repairing each hair strand. Its ColorDefend Technology locks in color and speeds dry time. The products include rice and soy proteins for hair elasticity, strength and health, as well as apple extract for hydration. marula.com

Candy Colors

5-in-1 Cleansing Conditioner

Bain de Terre

Bain de Terre has launched its Keratin Phyto-Protein 5-in-1 Cleansing Conditioner, which acts as a shampoo, conditioner, deep conditioner, detangler and leave-in conditioner. The product contains plant-based keratin, argan and monoi oils, and other botanicals. The conditioner is sulfate-free, paraben-free, colorsafe and appropriate for all hair types. www.baindeterre.com

suki skincare has launched its hydrating body oil, featuring a citrus aroma, which serves as an après-sun soother, threein-one moisturizer, bath and massage oil, and features apricot kernel, grapeseed and sunflower oils. The company’s purifying acne serum reduces redness and heals hormonal, sweat-induced, cystic, t-zone and other blemishes, clears pores and reduces oily buildup to prevent new blemishes from forming. It contains salicylic acid from white willow bark, as well as echinacea and goldenseal. The ultra protect body balm applicator is available in a 2-oz and 1-oz on-the-go size. The purifying acne serum moisturizes and soothes sunburns. It also calms inflammation and irritations, as well as scrapes and bug bites.

The product contains shea and cocoa butters, apricot kernel oil, rosehip and lavender. sukiskincare.com

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News about the Fragrance industry

NEWS

Sweet Anthem Perfumes and Anthropologie.com have collaborated on “bottled stories you can read on your skin,” comprising four online exclusive fragrances.

Sweet Anthem Perfumes is an independent firm that oversees its own production in-house from development to bottling. All scents are vegan-friendly, according to the company. Juliet is an homage to the Shakespeare play, which has a spicy floral character with notes of mango, clove, jasmine, tobacco and driftwood. Lucille is a sweet fragrance with notes of linden, jasmine, rosewood and amber. Phoebe is a fall fragrance with maple sugar, lavender, tobacco and dirt notes.

Sophie has notes of agarwood, black tea, benzoin and neroli.

Retail Perfumers Respond to New Digital Luxury Environment

The European Federation of Retail Perfumers (FEPD) has named William Koeberlé, current president of the French Federation of Selective Perfumery, as its president as well, succeeding Robert Leygues.

According to the organization, “FEPD represents 21 countries of the European Union in the field of retail trade of perfume and cosmetics.”

The FEPD explains the dual presidency for Koeberlé thusly, “The modernization of the selective distribution agreement must allow to redefine the environment of luxury goods in the digital world, including by taking into account the criteria of the customer experience in digital mode.”

Koeberlé noted, “In a market shaken by the rise of digital and very low growth, two priorities will be at the heart of my actions: the modernization of the selective distribution contract and deepening of the training system. With mobile clients and brands that operate internationally, this double presidency should allow better use of our positions from one country to another.”

Additional officers include: Andrea Malinverno, Figliaro, Italy, vice president; Klaus Kobberger, Frankfurt, Germany, vice president; Hans Martin Hittaller, Voitsberg, Austria, vice president; Joseph Demesmacre, Brussels, Belgium, advisor, Brussels and Benelux; Dieter Wolf, Frankfurt, Germany, honorary president; Jasmine Petiot, Paris, France, secretary general; Barbara Summerer, Andernach, Germany, secretary general secretary; Elmar Keldenich, Dusseldorf, Germany, director.

The elected members of the general assembly include: William Koeberlé, president of the FFPS; Marie-Christine Marchives (Sephora France), vice president of the FFPS; Jasmine Petiot, vice president, treasurer FFPS; Isabelle Parize (Nocibé Group); Eileen Yeo (Marionnaud Perfume); Caroline Fournier (Galeries Lafayette); Charlotte Tasset (Spring); Philippe Charoing (Beauty Success); and Laurence Ritz (Perfume Art and Beauty).

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Sweet Anthem Perfumes and Anthropologie.com

stories in a bottle

Inter Parfums, which recently acquired Rochas from P&G, has entered into an 11-year global fragrance licensing agreement with Coach. Inter Parfums will create, produce and distribute new Coach perfumes and fragrance-related products, including men’s and women’s scents. Inter Parfums will distribute the products globally to department and specialty stores and duty free shops, as well as in Coach retail stores beginning in fall 2016.

The oldest fragrance and cosmetic sampling company in the United States, Orlandi (Farmingdale, New York), is celebrating its 150th year of business. The company began as a printer in 1865. Over the years, Orlandi’s capabilities have broadened to include fragrance and cosmetic sampling technologies, air care products and packaging, as well as printing and manufacturing services.

Givaudan’s first-quarter sales were CHF 1,091 million, an increase of 0.9% on a like-for-like basis, and 0.4% in Swiss francs compared to the previous year, despite a slowdown in the developing markets of Asia and Eastern Europe. The fragrance division recorded sales of CHF 519 million, a growth of 0.3% on a like-for-like basis and an increase of 0.7% in Swiss francs. Fine fragrance sales declined by 1.8% on a like-for-like basis against double-digit comparables of the prior year.

Consumer product sales increased by 1.1% on a like-for-like basis with solid growth in developing countries more than offsetting lower sales in mature markets.

To mark its 120th anniversary this year, Firmenich (Geneva), which recently transferred oversight of fragrance reference site OSMOZ to agency The Twelve, has launched its new and redesigned website www.firmenich.com.

Symrise (Holzminden, Germany) has reported sales of €2.12 billion for 2014 (2013: €1,830.4 million), an increase of 18% at local currency, reaching an EBITDA of €464.5 million, a gain of 24% year-over-year.

The company experienced a strong fourth quarter, totaling €590.1 million (2013: €429.2 million) The Scent & Care segment, which focused on high-margin business, increased sales in local currency by 4%, totaling €980.4 million (2013: €960.4 million), and reaching an EBITDA of €222.9 million. Gains were driven by cosmetic ingredients.

Gentlewoman Launches

Juliette Has A Gun has launched Gentlewoman by perfumer Romano Ricci in the United States.

The “neo dandy” eau de cologne features a masculine profile with notes of neroli, orange blossom absolute, and musks and wood. The 100 mL scent retails for $145 and is available at specialty stores and stockists, and Sephora. www.juliettehasagun.com

Juliette Has A Gun

FRAGRANCE FOCUS

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FRAGRANCE FOCUS

fragrance award season: fragrance foundation award fin Fragrance Foundation Finalists The Fragrance Foundation announced the finalists from its group of semi-finalists in each category for the 2015 Fragrance Foundation awards during its finalists’ breakfast at the Mandarin Oriental in New York. Actress Christine Baranski emceed the event for the third year.

Again this year, breakfast attendees could vote for the Popular, Prestige and Luxury categories for Fragrance of the Year, and, new this year, for Men’s and Women’s Packaging of the Year.

The final winners will be honored at The Fragrance Foundation Awards on June 17 at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall, New York, which will be emceed by actor and film producer Alec Baldwin.

The Fragrance Foundation also recognized John Demsey, group president of The Estée Lauder The Fragrance Foundation France recently held its annual Fifi awards.

Companies, as this year’s Hall of Fame honoree.

Annie Buzantian, master perfumer at Firmenich, is Fragrance of the Year: Men’s Luxury the recipient of the Perfumer of the Year, Lifetime Achievement Acqua Di Parma Colonia Leather Eau de Parfum (Acqua di Parma) Award. This honor will be presented during the Fragrance Brioni (Brioni) Foundation Awards event. And now, the finalists: John Varvatos Oud (Elizabeth Arden) Tom Ford Mandarino di Amalfi (Tom Ford Beauty) Fragrance of the Year: Men’s Popular Avon Luck for Him (Avon) Fragrance of the Year: Women’s Luxury Modern Banana Republic Man (Inter Parfums USA LLC) Acqua di Parma Rosa Nobile Eau de Parfum (Acqua di Parma) Valor Eau de Toilette (Dana Beauty) Bottega Veneta Knot (Coty Inc.) Dolce Eau de Parfum by Dolce & Gabbana (P&G Prestige) Fragrance of the Year: Women’s Popular Tom Ford Velvet Orchid (Tom Ford Beauty) A Thousand Wishes (Bath & Body Works) Viktor & Rolf Bonbon (L’Oréal) Avon Luck for Her (Avon) Modern Banana Republic Woman (Inter Parfums USA LLC) Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year Taylor Swift Incredible Things (Elizabeth Arden) Diptyque Paris Victoria’s Secret Scandalous (Victoria’s Secret) IFF Parfums Christian Dior Fragrance of the Year: Men’s Prestige Robertet Dior Homme Eau for Men (Parfums Christian Dior) Symrise Drakkar Essence (L’Oréal) Givenchy Gentlemen Only Intense (Parfums Givenchy) Fragrance Hall of Fame Michael Kors for Men Eau de Toilette (Michael Kors Beauty) Bvlgari Eau Parfumée Au Thé Vert (Bulgari) Paco Rabanne Invictus (Puig) Donna Karan Cashmere Mist (Donna Karan Cosmetics) J’adore (Parfums Christian Dior) Fragrance of the Year: Women’s Prestige Philosophy Amazing Grace (Coty, Inc.) Daisy Dream Marc Jacobs (Coty Inc.) Ralph Lauren Romance (L’Oréal) Giorgio Armani Sì Eau de Parfum (L’Oréal) Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet (Parfums Christian Dior) Packaging of the Year: Men’s Narciso Rodriquez Parfums Narciso Eau de Parfum (Beauté Armani Privé Encens Satin (L’Oréal) Prestige International) Bvlgari Man in Black (Bulgari) Intoxicated (By Kilian) Wood Sage & Sea Salt Cologne (Jo Malone London)

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Jimmy Choo Man (Interparfums Luxury Brands) John Varvatos Oud (Elizabeth Arden) Tom Ford Mandarino Di Amalfi (Tom Ford Beauty) Packaging of the Year: Women’s Avon Luck for Her (Avon) Daisy Dream Marc Jacobs (Coty Inc.) Dolce Eau de Parfum by Dolce & Gabbana (P&G Prestige) Victoria’s Secret Scandalous (Victoria’s Secret) Viktor & Rolf Bonbon (L’Oréal) Interior Scent Collection of the Year Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Candle Collection (P&G Prestige) Hermès le Parfum de la Maison (Beauté Prestige International) La Collection 34 and Its Bazar (Diptyque Paris) Lemongrass & Ginger Home Fragrance Collection (Nest Fragrances) Wood Sage & Sea Salt Home Candle (Jo Malone London) Media Campaign of the Year: Men’s Boss. Bottled. (P&G Prestige) Dior Homme Eau for Men (Parfums Christian Dior) Drakkar Essence (L’Oréal) Jimmy Choo Man (Interparfums Luxury Brands) Media Campaign of the Year: Women’s Chanel No. 5 (Chanel) Coco Mademoiselle (Chanel) Dolce Eau de Parfum by Dolce & Gabbana (P&G Prestige) Giorgio Armani Sì Eau de Parfum (L’Oréal) J’adore (Parfums Christian Dior) Bath and Body Line of the Year A Thousand Wishes (Bath & Body Works) Fantasies Passion Struck (Victoria’s Secret) Hermès Le Bain (Beauté Prestige International) Pear and Pink Magnolia (Crabtree & Evelyn) Wood Sage & Sea Salt Body Crème and Body & Hand Wash (Jo Malone London) Indie Fragrance of the Year Carven Pour Homme (Carven) Flowerhead (Byredo) Foxglove (Hylnds by D.S. & Durga) Intoxicated (By Kilian) Le Premier Parfum (Coolife) Mojave Ghost (Byredo) Ombre Indigo (Olfactive Studio) Consumer Choice Awards Finalists: Prestige Daisy Dream Marc Jacobs (Coty Inc.) Givenchy Dahlia Divin (Parfums Givenchy) Midnight Romance Ralph Lauren (L’Oréal)

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Consumer Choice Awards Finalists: Popular A Thousand Wishes (Bath & Body Works) Avon Luck for Her (Avon) Jessica Simpson Signature (Parlux Ltd.) Sofia by Sofia Vergara (Parlux Ltd.) Taylor Swift Incredible Things (Elizabeth Arden) Victoria’s Secret Scandalous (Victoria’s Secret)

Fragrance Foundation France Winners The Fragrance Foundation France has revealed its FiFi awards for 2015. The winners in each category were: Best fragrance by a niche brand: Corsica Furiosa by Parfum d’Empire Award for best fragrance by a luxury brand: Cuir d’Ange

by Hermès Best men’s perfume from a brand-owned retail channel (Public): Mer & Mistral by l’Occitane Best women’s perfume from a brand-owned retail channel (Public): Quelques notes d’amour by Yves Rocher Best men’s fragrance in mass distribution (Public): Jeans Brut

by Daniel Hechter Best women’s fragrance in mass distribution (Public): Double Je by Eau Jeune Best men’s fragrance in selective distribution (Public): L’Homme Idéal by Guerlain Best women’s fragrance in selective distribution (Public): La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Parfum Couture by Guerlain Award for the best advertising communication in selective distribution (men): L’Homme Idéal by Guerlain Award for the best advertising campaign in selective distribution (women): Black Opium by Yves Saint Laurent Award for the best bottle design in selective distribution (men): Valentino Uomo by Valentino Award for the best bottle design in selective distribution (women): La Panthère by Cartier Award for the best fragrance in selective distribution (men): Valentino Uomo by Valentino Award for the best fragrance in selective distribution (women): Black Opium by Yves Saint Laurent FiFi d’Or (men): Valentino Uomo by Valentino FiFi d’Or (women): My Burberry by Burberry

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ADDED

VALUE

event Preview

First Look: Cosmoprof North America Cosmoprof North America (www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com) will take place July 12–14, 2015, at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas, offering a range of events.

Daniela Ciocan, the event’s marketing director explains that the event will include the Cosmopack International Business Forum & Exhibition, a showcase of new and innovative cosmetic brands called Discover Beauty, the Boutique sampling bar of products from 20 brands and a full complement of educational sessions. In addition, Cosmoprof North America has inaugurated three new features: Tones of Beauty, Beauty Pitch Daniela Ciocan, marketing director, and Discover Scent.

Cosmoprof North America.

explains Corey Huggins, founder and CEO of love, Aunt Bonnie and organizer of Cosmoprof ’s Tones of Beauty program.

Tones of Beauty will showcase 10 up-and-coming and established multicultural brands with skin, hair, cosmetic, fragrance and lifestyle offerings, while also examining the needs and purchasing power of multicultural consumers. Brands will include earth’s nectar and Clique by Roble, among others.

The multicultural beauty products market grew 3.7% in 2014.

The event will incloude a showcase of new and innovative cosmetic brands called Discover Beauty.

Tones of Beauty: Catching the Polyethnic Boom Consumers’ beauty requirements are changing as the United States and the rest of the planet becomes increasingly polycultural.

According to Kline & Co. figures cited by Cosmoprof, the multicultural beauty products market grew 3.7% in 2014 and represents $1.2 trillion of projected buying power.

The boom in consumer engagement has led to increased competition for market share leading up to the establishment of a new collective majority of Hispanics, African Americans and Asians in the United States by 2042.

Multicultural consumers are highly engaged and more motivated to buy beauty products compared to other consumers,

Huggins has worked with Maybelline, Black Opal and PhytoSpecific, as well as with beauty discovery subscription service GlossyBox. In building Tones of Beauty, he has assembled “brands that people should know” and which will benefit from exposure to key distributors, buyers and retailers, while also receiving PR support.

Tones of Beauty will feature a sampling program for retailers to initiate exposure to hero SKUs. The program will include integrated digital campaigns “to make a mark among multicultural consumers,” while a group of multicultural digital influencers will create live brand and consumer interactions throughout the course of the event.

Additionally, love, Aunt Bonnie will use its Bonnie Box program to distribute to its members a one-time beauty sample box comprising hero products from each of the 10 exhibiting brands.

Leading up to the event, Huggins will bring five brands to New York for a press junket, providing PR exposure for the brands ahead of Cosmoprof.

In a recent interview with Ad Age, Tristan Walker of Walker & Co. noted that multicultural consumers require companies to think outside the demographic box. Rather than solving issues for men or women of specific ethnicities, Walker said, it is important to solve specific issues such as coarse, curly hair, which may in fact transcend several ethnicities or cultures.

Higgins elaborates that the polyethnic evolution of the United

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2015

event Preview States and beyond will eventually separate skin tone and beauty needs from any single cultural identity.

Brands that speak to the shifting mindsets and psychographics of multiethnic consumers are the ones that will bridge the gap and succeed.

This sense of “blendedness,” as Huggins calls it, is the next frontier of cultural beauty: beauty for all.

Beauty Pitch: Unlocking the Entrepreneurial Spirit Cosmoprof, in cooperation with the Professional Beauty Association (PBA), will host a live Beauty Pitch session with entrepreneurial gurus Mark Cuban and John Paul DeJoria.

Scott Buchanan, PBA chairman, says that the event will provide beauty entrepreneurs with an opportunity to gain visibility and awareness and, perhaps, secure one year of mentorship from Cuban. Beauty Pitch will mimic the popular Shark Tank show on ABC. The event offers up-andJohn Paul DeJoria coming and established companies the opportunity to present their brand, products or ideas to a panel of top investors including Cuban and DeJoria.

One winner will receive a one-year mentorship from Cuban and/or another will receive possible funding from a reputable private equity firm. Cuban and DeJoria will share their advice on business practices and answer questions from the audience with Buchanan serving as the moderator.

The Beauty Pitch finalists will have been selected by a panel of judges consisting of industry professionals, program hosts and investors. The five finalists for the Cosmoprof event will be announced on May 22.

The Capstone research is being conducted in partnership with The Boston Consulting Group (BCG) and capstone event sponsor LVMH. The FIT students and team leaders, along with the other students in the graduating class, spent more than four months working with BCG on primary research conducted in the United States, India and China. The students also went to Shanghai, Seoul and Tokyo as part of their field studies work, where they conducted additional research.

Discover Scent Cosmoprof North America has also launched its Discover Scent program, presented in cooperation with Sniffapalooza. The outlet within the event will connect fragrance brands and retailers, including distributors, retailers, and luxury spas and salons.

The program is open to new and limited-footprint fragrance brands offering personal or home fragrance products within the United States. Discover Scent will include 14 luxe and artisanal brands. Meanwhile, drom will create scents for an interactive exhibit, while Air Aroma, a scent marketing and air scenting system company, will provide ambient scent.

The Future of Luxury: FIT Capstone China is emerging as the world’s largest luxury market, surpassing legacy leaders such as Europe and Japan, leading premium mass brands and retailers to challenge traditional luxury codes. Cosmoprof North America will include the Fashion Institute of Technology’s (FIT) Cosmetic and Fragrance Marketing and Management Master’s Degree program’s Capstone, titled “The Future of Luxury: What, Where and How.” Looking at the 21st century’s shifting mindsets, the research will examine the impact on the salon, spa and beauty industries.

Three students from the program, Amanda Bopp, Corey Moran and Thomas Reedman, will present, while FIT professor and industry expert, Brooke Carlson, will moderate the panel.

www.GCImagazine.com

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CATEGORY INSIGHTS

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Hair care is growing, but at a rate below the industry average.

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Shampoos and conditioners with pronounced health and beauty benefits helped to drive growth in these categories.

n

Hair care innovations seek to incorporate sophisticated solutions for healthy-looking hair.

n

22

Multicultural beauty offerings will benefit from perms and relaxants.

Category Insights

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the Two Key Factors in Hair Care Growth Strategies for future success.

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BY ORU MOHIUDDIN, EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Š 2015 Allured Business Media.

GCI June 2015

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t 4.7%, hair care continued to grow below the industry average of 5.0% in 2014, but the good news is that it picked up from 4.5% in 2013, favored by all regions, with the exception of Asia Pacific and Western Europe. Latin America accounted for 45% of the global absolute growth in hair care, thanks to Brazil. The fact that North America is improving spells good news since, regionally, it ranks highest in terms of per capita spending on hair care.

Shampoos and conditioners, each with a contribution of over 30%, accounted for more than 60% absolute growth in hair care globally. More targeted offerings with pronounced health and beauty benefits helped to drive growth in these categories.

While efficacy in the form of targeted solutions is increasing in importance, hair care continues to be mass orientated as consumers show a greater preference for value products. Going forward, success will continue to involve combining mass offerings with efficacy.

Health Focus Gains Prominence Increasingly, hair care solutions are looking to incorporate more sophisticated solutions to help create healthy-looking hair. This involves addressing hair care concerns such as damaged and limp hair, but, as understanding of hair care widens, it is increasingly believed that including scalp health benefits plays an important part in developing more efficacious hair care products.

Providing nourishment to the scalp is said to help strengthen hair follicles and contribute toward healthy and strong hair. A greater number of shampoos and conditioners are now claimed to include rare and exotic oil that provide necessary nutrition to the scalp, but, additionally, there are dedicated formats such as hair masks, serums and other hair treatments to benefit scalp health.

Reducing Exposure to Sulfates As consumers become more aware of scalp health, there are good opportunities for products that reduce exposure to sulfates in regular shampoos. Sulfate is an ingredient responsible for creating lather in shampoos, but sulfate is said to strip hair of its natural oil, adding to the problem of dry scalp. www.GCImagazine.com

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Dry shampoos are positioned as products that can be used in between wet shampoos and thus help to reduce exposure to sulfates in regular shampoos. While using dry shampoos, by default, can benefit scalp health, some dry shampoo brands are incorporating scalp health claims to reinforce the benefit.

Like dry shampoos, cleansing conditioners, which are sulfate-free shampoos, offer an alternative that can also benefit scalp health. Both dry shampoos and cleansing conditioners have strong potential among consumers with African hair types, since consumers of that origin are said to tend to have dry scalps and, therefore, can particularly benefit from replacements for regular wet shampoos.

Textured Hair Solutions for the Multicultural Beauty Space In terms of developing products in compliance with consumer needs based on their ethnicity and cultural preferences, perms and relaxants have seen good growth. In 2014, perms and relaxants grew by 7%, slower than the 14% seen in 2013.

However, in 2013, growth had peaked after the old products were replaced with safer ingredients in Latin America. Most of the sales in this category are generated in Latin America and the Middle East and Africa, accounting for nearly 80% of global sales. Going forward, growth in perms and relaxants will be accounted for

by Latin America. In order to tap into the expected growth in perms and relaxants, L’Oréal acquired Brazilian company Niely in 2014.

care, however, can be compensated for by boosting volume growth in both developed and developing markets.

Increasing Frequency of Hair Care Products in Mature Markets Driving volume growth in developed markets is a greater challenge given the level of market maturity. Product launches with sophisticated claims in novel formats have helped to drive value growth in terms of higher unit prices, but these products are also designed to add extra steps to the existing beauty routine, thus increasing the frequency of hair care product usage.

One interesting launch is L’Oréal’s Fribrology, a range targeted towards creating fuller-looking hair that includes shampoos, conditioners, masks, serums and boosters.

Using all the different products from the range is said to maximize efficacy.

Penetration of Shampoos in Developing Markets While driving growth in developed markets involves adding new steps to the beauty routine, in developing markets there is the scope to improve penetration by increasing the frequency of shampoo usage.

In Brazil, volume per capita of shampoo was 1,022 ml in 2014, compared to 105 ml in India. In markets such as Nigeria and Egypt, the volume per capita usage of shampoo is even lower than in India. Entrenching usage of shampoos more deeply as part of a regular grooming routine in these markets could help to drive volume growth.

Hair Care Remains a Mass Offering

Conclusion

Despite the increasing focus on functionality and efficacy, hair care continues to be mostly mass, with this segment accounting for nearly 90% of global hair care sales. Going forward, premium hair care is projected to grow at a slightly faster pace of 2.0% CAGR, compared to a 1.8% CAGR for mass hair care, but, in absolute terms, mass hair care is projected to account for 88% of the projected absolute growth in hair care between 2014 and 2019.

Unlike skin care, consumers are less willing to pay a higher margin for hair care, as skin is more closely linked to beauty than hair. The relatively lower margin in hair

Despite efforts to invigorate a relatively mature hair care market, the category continues to under-index the industry average. Value growth in hair care has been hampered by an upwardly inelastic value margin. There is, however, hope in some untapped zones in emerging markets, where the frequency of shampoo usage continues to be low.

Developing a deeper penetration in such markets, in addition to tapping into white spaces in developed markets, can contribute to the global momentum for hair care growth and may even help to overtake the industry average. n GCI Category Insights

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packaging insights

Ensuring secondary packaging pays off.

IMPACT POINTS

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Secondary packaging boosts perception of quality.

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Grouping related products together is often a win-win for a brand and the buyer.

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Investing in a strong secondary package can mean fewer worries about damaged goods.

n

For a specialty line or product within your brand, it may be worth it to add a touch of luxury to make a secondary package stand out.

Packaging Insights

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t’s no secret that shoppers can be lured by eye-catching packaging, especially in the personal care market. It follows that a great secondary package can clearly differentiate your brand from the competition.

“If we look at two of the same product side by side—one with secondary packaging and one without—we’ve been conditioned to think the product with the additional packaging is better before we even know if it’s any different at all,” says Jonathan Dudlak, general manager of Chicago Paper Tube & Can Company.

“We expect it to be more expensive, and we expect to get something for the additional cost, and while in some cases it’s more product or better product, sometimes it’s just a nice package that makes it giftable or worth saving and reusing.”

Indeed, Dudlak hits the nail on the head—consumers expect to get something for the extra cost of the outer package, and so do the brands that opted for it.

Fortunately, there are ways to ensure that the resources you invest in secondary packaging lead to a payoff for shoppers, for retailers and for you.

Add Some Value Grouping related products together is often a win-win for a brand and the buyer.

More items in a package means a higher price point, but it’s an overall value and convenience for the shopper—she’ll receive all the items needed for the necessary hair or beauty regimen. Often, a bag as secondary package can be a fantastic choice.

“A great example would be for a hair treatment kit—let’s say it contains five items, such as color agents, brushes, et cetera, and it’s intended for several uses,” suggests Steve Jeffrey, president of Imex Packaging. “If it’s sold in a box, where do you put the items after the first use? If the secondary packaging is a bag—voila! You can use it, then put it back in the reusable bag. You could even travel with it.”

reproduction in english or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2015 allured business Media.

Marula

BY LISA DOYLE

GCI June 2015

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At first sight, Alpha’s jars turn heads. But a closer look at our wide range of options reveals even more reasons to trust Alpha for your personal care packaging needs.

With seven North American manufacturing locations to choose from, we can help you get jars faster and with lower shipping costs from our plant to your filler. Alpha is currently stocking more sizes and colors of PET plastic jars than ever before, from 2 ounces to 32 ounces; and, if you desire a custom color to reinforce your brand, we can create a color for you with very low minimums.

Alpha can also create a custom mold or enhance your finished package with high quality silk screening, labeling or spray frosting to take your brand to the next level.

At Alpha Packaging, we don’t just make beautiful things; we make beauty that works for you.

For free samples of our stock bottles and jars, visit www.alphap.com and click “Request a Sample.”

Alpha Packaging | 800-421-4772 www.alphap.com | www.technigraph.net Stock Packaging | Custom Molding | Screen Printing | Spray Frosting

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Imex

Jaimey Wilman, director of marketing for Action Bag, agrees that creating grouped product sets delivers value: “Having readyto-go packaging allows consumers to buy multiple items and easily transport it to checkout areas.”

For example, Action Bag created a diecut, easy-to-carry bag with a snap, which was perfect for the Copperfalls Spa’s HeatSmart Serum shampoo and hairspray combo pack (pictured).

Stay Retailer-Friendly

When you’re incorporating multiple packages, you’re also adding more variables to your production line.

“It is important for both the primary and secondary packaging manufacturers to collaborate closely to ensure the correct and secure fit between the various components, as well as the consistency of branding between [them],” says Mark Kenah, president of Albert Paper Products.

Utilizing suppliers that can help minimize room for error is key.

“One thing we always stress is to produce as much of the packaging in one facility as possible, especially when it comes to printing,” Dudlak says. “When you go to marry the products up with one another, the details start to stand out, and having as little equipment and few producers involved will naturally help here. When this is not possible, we try to produce things serially—time permitting—and have, say, a bag supplier match to our actual printed canister wraps, or we match to the color and finish of a plastic squeeze tube once it’s made. This eliminates those little variances that come from everyone matching to a color chip.

Matching to production parts allows the supplier to make an adjustment on the front end to match the result rather than the target.”

Investing in a strong secondary package can mean fewer worries about damaged goods.

“Our secondary packaging needs to protect product from breakage and scuffing, and our exceedingly strong corrugated board and various coated stock of paperboard enables us to perform each time,” says Mark Kenah, vice president of Albert Paper Products Co. Plus, retail-ready secondary packaging means ease of transport for everyone along the chain.

“Big box retailers want something that goes directly from the pallet to the shelf,” adds Wilman. “Packaging that is its own retail display makes it easier for retailers, which saves labor and additional material costs.”

Creating a secondary package that works well for retail environments may have some bonus environmental benefits as well.

“Comparing a blister pack or clamshell pack to our bags, our bags take up less space, which saves on trucking costs, [which means] less fuel used and less greenhouse gases emitted,” says Jeffrey. “As a result, more packages on the shelf lead to higher sell-through.”

One example is the compact, zippered PVC bag that Imex created for a Breeze duopack that included a Venus razor and Olay Quench body lotion (pictured). With

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Keep Branding Consistent

Action Bag

packaging insights

no wasted space, it was the perfect size for the shelf and the end-user, and included a woven hang tag fit for a shelf at the store or inside the home.

When to Incorporate the “Wow Factor” For a specialty line or product within your brand, it may be worth it to keep the functionality and add a touch of luxury to make a secondary package stand out.

“We’re rolling out a line of round packaging with an actual woodgrain finish furnished by a local Midwestern partner in the next few months,” says Dudlak.

“We also have expansions to our EcoPush line—our all-paperboard dispenser for balms, butters, and other oil-based solids that offer new performance and design possibilities.”

This package was a natural choice for the Marula by John Paul Selects’ Lips 2 Lines Time Released Hydration Balm (pictured).

Also along the luxury lines, Cosfibel now offers Stairsbox, an innovative secondary package for fragrances (pictured). Stairsbox takes on a novel architectural design, conceived as a stack of plates that double as walls, while still allowing the contents to be visible. The package opens as the plates rotate; each one pivots to release the next, making for a fun and progressive discovery of the fragrance inside.

“A beautiful pack is something you will love to keep,” says Ilan Schinazi, Cosfibel Premium CEO. “It needs to be customerfriendly and at the same time astonishing.” n GCI

Lisa Doyle was formerly the associate editor of GCI magazine and is a freelance writer in the Chicago area. Her work has appeared in Skin Inc. magazine, Salon Today, America’s Best, Renew and Modern Salon.

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emerging ingredients

Nature-inspired Innovation The intersection of R&D and consumer consciousness.

BY SARA MASON

IMPACT POINTS

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n

As consumers’ expectations of benefits have increased, brands have evolved.

n

Revolutionary innovations have resulted in technology that mimics nature, simultaneously making lives easier, healthier and more sustainable.

n

Algal ingredients are creating new avenues of innovation.

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Science must be paired with integrity to have impact for consumers.

Emerging Ingredients

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T

he beauty industry is highly competitive, and brand owners are always looking to differentiate their products from the competition.

Innovation in ingredients piques formulators’ and marketers’ interests alike, and is a must for any successful beauty brand.

But beyond the marketing story and exotic formula must lie sound science.

Era of Natural In the past, cosmetics were marketed primarily on emotions and the consumer’s psyche—how the product would make the consumer feel. However, as consumers’ expectations of benefits increased, brands have evolved. Scientific advancements have allowed companies to focus on form and function, pushing R&D and marketing in a new direction.

The driving force is, and will continue to be, the increasingly knowledgeable consumer. Manufacturers are competing for an ever-growing population of buyers who are becoming better informed and conscious about the ingredients that are going into and onto their bodies.

There will always be a place for vibrant colors and a playful attitude in beauty. But the new era of personal care focuses on the benefits of naturally derived ingredients and technologies. More than ever, consumers are motivated to pursue healthy, nourishing beauty that is linked to the world around them.

The beauty industry in turn has gone back to nature to develop the latest technologies and ingredients. Yet, keeping the environment in mind poses unique technical and sustainability challenges both inside and outside the lab.

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2015 Allured Business Media.

GCI June 2015

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Reduces Inflammation & Improves Skin Hydration without clogging pores

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emerging ingredients Emulating Nature Revolutionary innovations have resulted in technology that mimics nature, simultaneously making lives easier, healthier and more sustainable. A good example is the Australian red seaweed Delisea pulchra, which secretes furanones, natural chemicals that disable bacteria’s ability to colonize its surface. Rather than killing the microbes, furanones interfere with their ability to communicate, thereby avoiding their capacity to build up a resistance. This clever antimicrobial mechanism provides just one example of the emerging field of biomimetics, which have the potential to generate new innovations created from biologically inspired engineering. It also makes for a good marketing story in today’s ecofriendly marketplace.

Algae Solutions Household goods maker Kao Corp. is looking at algae for innovative, green solutions. The company has identified an enzyme that could lead to a non-food source of raw materials for surfactants and an alternative to palm oil and coconut oil.

Their findings may dramatically accelerate the breeding development of algae for large-scale products of medium-chain fatty acids.

“Algae is a hot topic, now more than ever,” says Fanny Coste, Costemetics Consulting.

Not only is algae popular with consumers from a marketing standpoint as a natural ingredient, but sustainable sourcing objectives have prompted alternative growing techniques.

Coste notes, “Combining cultivation and digital tech is interesting. A lot of progress has been made in the past year, and the viability of algae is being demonstrated in the industry.”

One biotech developer and manufacturer of algae-based chemicals, and a supplier of related technologies for the food and beverage industries claims to have produced the world’s first commercial versions of high-purity beta-1,3-glucan from algae.

Found only in select species of algae, the cell wall of yeast and some mushrooms, beta-1,3-glucan has undergone decades of research showing its ability to support a healthy immune system. Algal Scientific has

developed a proprietary recipe using the material that includes nutrients, minerals and vitamins.

From this recipe and a patent-pending process, Algal Scientific grows and harvests its own special algae, AlgaGlucan, the purified extract of beta-1,3-glucan produced

by Euglena gracilis. It is grown in sterile fermentation tanks similar to the way that beer is produced—as well many biological products such as antibiotics. AlgaGlucan is in the final stages of regulatory approval for use in human nutraceuticals and subsequently in functional foods. Research has shown that topical use of this form of beta glucan provides skin benefits, yielding potential future applications in cosmetics and toiletries.

Research has

shown that topical use of one form of beta glucan provides skin benefits, yielding potential future applications in cosmetics and toiletries.

Specialty chemical supplier SEPPIC is also making advances on its ALGRAAL project, launched last year to develop new algal-based source fatty alcohols and emulsifiers for the cosmetic industry, as part of its efforts to focus on green, plantbased chemistry.

The project brings together private and public sector partners and is being supported by SEPPIC customers such as Clarins and Yves Rocher, who are ready to use this new raw material in their product formulations.

“SEPPIC is committed to innovation on a daily basis as part of its sustainable development policy, and has made it a priority in its R&D projects,” says Sandra Manceau, R&D, SEPPIC.

The company’s BiotechMarine subsidiary recently announced its breakthrough technology, Celebrity, which cultivates macroalgal cells in the laboratory to derive active ingredients for cosmetics. Inspired by the rich biodiversity of the sea surrounding France’s Bréhat archipelago, the cell culture technology makes it possible to create a bank of macroalgal cells from many untapped species with benefits for the skin that have yet to be explored.

“Macroalgae cells have the amazing ability to transform light and minerals into organic molecules,” explains Erwan Le Gélébart, R&D project manager. “This is a major innovation for the world of cosmetic active ingredients.”

Using in vitro macroalgal cell cultures, the company is able to offer a new marine source of active ingredients for beauty applications.

The first of its kind is Ephemer, a gametophyte extract taken from macroalgae cells grown in a laboratory and harvested at an ephemeral stage in the lifecycle of the brown seaweed Undaria pinnatifida, or wakame. During this growth stage, the macroalgal cells accumulate antioxidant molecules. The in-vitro cultivation of macroalgae cells allows the supplier to stabilize the gametophytesm, which are found in very low quantities, and to multiply them in order to use their properties for cosmetic purposes.

Ephemer is purported to protect the skin, help reduce free radicals and preserve mitochondrial DNA for both long- and short-term benefits.

Green Partnerships Last year, various other algal ingredients were launched by industry suppliers, including Symrise SymBronze1659, a selftanner derived from microalgae Isochrysis galbana; Silab Deglysome, a firming ingredient rich in galactans from Hypnea musciformis algae; and Lipotec Actigym, a marine ingredient that—by mimicking the effect of endurance training—is directed at improving body definition and redefining areas sensitive to sagging due to aging or insufficient physical activity. This marine ingredient is an extracellular substance produced by a microorganism inhabiting Bermuda (Bacillus sp) and is part of Lipotec’s product brand Biointec. Tested in vivo, the company claims it induces

30 Emerging Ingredients GCI June 2015

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emerging ingredients adiponectin release from adipose tissue, enhancing metabolism.

Another active with innovative mechanisms of action from Lipotec is Nocturshape. The anti-cellulite ingredient takes advantage of human circadian rhythms by reducing levels of nocturnin, a protein that is involved in adipogenesis and lipid accumulation, specifically during the night.

In developing Nocturshape, Lipotec was inspired by chronobiological parameters being used in pharmacological studies for assessing the right time for the administration of drugs and the observation of their effects.

“Similarly, it is essential to take into account the importance of circadian rhythms when developing and testing cosmetics,” says Cristina Davi, product manager.

Understanding the best time for the application of a product, as well as the biological rhythms of tissue and molecular mechanisms to be addressed, allows the active ingredient to potentially achieve more efficient results.

Lipotec invests significant resources in R&D in order to provide more innovative active ingredients with better efficacy to target each cosmetic need.

“The close relationship of Lipotec to academia, via numerous partnerships, and its pharmaceutical approach energize its impetus to research and ensure the extreme rigor of our cosmetic approach,” says Davi.

Mibelle Biochemistry is no stranger to novel sources of raw materials and innovative study methods. The Swiss company’s Snow Algae Powder claims a calorie restriction-mimetic anti-aging effect.

Calorie restriction is a nutritional longevity theory and mechanism for increasing the lifespan of organisms. Mibelle has adopted this concept and applied it to cosmetic formulations to activate these biochemical pathways in skin cells. Following years of research, scientists found that the valuable stress response molecules produced by algae with the ability to survive in the extreme environmental conditions of glaciers can also effectively help protect the youthfulness of the skin.

Based on the extract of this unique algae, Snow Algae Powder stimulates the longevity gene Klotho and activates AMPK (AMP-activated kinase), an energy sensor that stimulates energy production from glucose and fatty acids and inhibits energy consumption. Mibelle claims that, together,

they mimic the effects of caloric restriction and optimize skin metabolism, leading to improved cellular defenses, oxidative stress resistance, cell detoxification and repair. Clinical studies have shown that the patented Snow Algae Powder improves the dermal/epidermal papillary skin structure.

Mibelle cultivates snow algae cells in an in-house photo bio reactor in conditions mimicking their natural environment.

Brands can partner with such suppliers that have science and nature in mind for ingredient innovation, as well as green business practices.

Renewable oil and bio-products company Solazyme, Inc., which makes algaebased ingredients for skin care, as well as industrial uses, food and fuel, recently announced the introduction of sustainable algal oils for one of Unilever’s biggest soap brands, Lux. Solazyme’s algal oils are derived from oil-producing microalgae that are cultivated sustainably and responsibly.

The oils are produced in a matter of days using a fermentation process designed to yield oils in the highest purity and performance. Unilever’s use of the oils is part of the brand’s effort to double the size of its business while reducing its overall environmental footprint.

“Through incorporating algal oils into our Lux products, we have a unique opportunity to make a difference on a large scale, as we help develop a raw material that we know has been responsibly sourced,” says Anne Radmacher, Lux Global Brand vice president.

Unilever and Solazyme have been collaborating for five years on multiple projects, culminating in a supply agreement covering the first of Solazyme and Unilever’s jointly developed oils. The vast majority of the tailored oil for the soap products will be produced in a new renewable oils facility in Moema, Brazil.

With the current consumer environment requiring a new level of discipline in how the industry thinks and communicates, building a narrative for your brand requires planning and cooperation between marketing and R&D, whether through partnerships or in-house.

Scientific Integrity While infusing science in the name of marketing seems to be the trend, doing so without the integrity of sound science may result in being dismissed, or worse.

“The cosmetics industry often has been castigated for ‘inventive’ marketing, but the industry also features some very inventive science,” says Joe Schwarcz, PhD, Director of McGill University’s Office for Science & Society.

Schwarcz is an author advocating against junk science and will speak of the need to demystify cosmetic science during the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit in June 2015 (details at http://Summit.

CosmeticsandToiletries.com).

While the potential of future science is never-ending, there is a limit to what products can do within the definition of “cosmetics.” The challenge then for cosmetic manufacturers is to develop products that can be scientifically shown to improve the appearance of the skin without causing significant changes in its structure.

“In recent years, cosmetic chemists have managed to infuse products with a great deal of science, but miracles remain elusive,” says Schwarcz, who asserts cosmetics is a blend of science and hope.

“Science is a process used to search for the truth. It is not a collection of unalterable truths; it is, however, a self-correcting discipline.”

One step forward, two steps back.

However, as more scientific knowledge accumulates, the chances of making substantial progress increases. Those with the foresight to be active participants in the developmental process suited for today’s evolving market can position their product for success.

By taking advantage of cutting-edge science and utilizing unique advantages of an innovation, brands can provide the greatest value of a product to those intended to benefit the consumer, and inspire action at the retail shelf.

The top keys to success are: • Scientific accuracy • Differentiation • Sustainability • Uniqueness & ability to inspire action n GCI

Sara Mason is a freelance writer based in the Chicagoland area. She was previously managing editor of GCI magazine.

32 Emerging Ingredients GCI June 2015

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Beauty Made Possible.

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Beauty tecH

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e How emerging tech is putting consumers directly in control of their diagnostics and beauty product selection.

BY RAHUL MEHENDALE

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There are more than 150,000 skin care products in the United States alone; consumers are overwhelmed by the number of products and require useful insights to make the right choices for their needs.

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Wearable techâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time has come, offering devices have the capacity to empower consumers with real-time diagnostics.

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Even medical professionals can lack the diagnostic tools to help consumers make informed decisions for their skin care needs.

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Wearable tech can fill the insight void and assist in the informed selection of skin care solutions.

Beauty Tech

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GCI June 2015

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2015

W

earables are technology devices oriented on the body, near the body or within the body. This type of computing innovation is nothing new. The Qing Dynasty, for example, saw the introduction of a fully functional abacus on a ring that could be simultaneously worn and used. In the late 1970s, a “body-borne computer” camera-to-tactile vest for the blind was conceived, which converted images into a 10-inch square tactile grid on a vest so the user could feel what the camera was seeing.

These and other innovations focused on convenience and functionality. Starting to sound familiar?

Thinking back on all of the early wearable computing products (of which there are many more examples) makes me realize that Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr was right: “The more things change, the more they stay the same.”

The same reasoning that went into those early devices still resonates today—create wearable products that put consumers in the driver’s seat and empower them to improve their lives independently.

Study (www.npd.com) finding that women outnumber men as prospective buyers of wearable fitness devices, we are certainly looking at a future where beauty and technology is at hand—your hands!

The reality is: Wearable computing is still in its infancy, and the future is a more beautiful, healthier and youthful you.

My pivotal moment came several years ago when my daughter suffered from skin allergies. Every time she scratched herself, she would bleed. My wife and I went to

care products and what were the criteria.

I soon found out that they weren’t really sure what type of skin they had—and most guessed either a combination or “sensitive.” Their product selection criteria were color, texture, scent and packaging, none of which had anything even remotely to do with achieving an outcome such as moisturizing, reducing dark circles or addressing a zit.

At that time, my company was pursuing the development of software and imaging related to early melanoma detection. As a former engineer, my next stop was a trip to my office to meet my development team.

I asked the group one question: “How

several doctors and no one seemed to have an answer due to the fact that there were no diagnostic tools available to them to determine what was wrong with her skin in its static state. In fact, the only answer that they could come up with was “take her to Mount Sinai in New York so they can research her condition.”

I was not going to let my daughter be a guinea pig, and I knew that I was in a unique position to provide an answer— not only for my daughter’s skin issues but for other children and families just like mine that had been confused by medical professionals who didn’t have the necessary tools to identify the right solution.

This moment was the realization that even the experts did not have the means to measure whether skin, as an organ, was working well or not, nor was there a body of knowledge to determine the same.

Seeking whether others were equally as confused about “knowing” their skin, I went to a local Sephora and stood outside asking people what they thought of their skin, how they picked their skin

can we create a product that can analyze what is wrong with my daughter’s skin and offer a diagnosis to help her find the right solution?”

We were able to create an early prototype and diagnostic platform, which helped us to identify my daughter’s skin issues by determining her moisture and oil levels and the texture of her skin. The early product that we developed was able to analyze her skin type and make product recommendations based on its particular characteristics.

Using our diagnostic platform, we were able to analyze, diagnose and solve my daughter’s condition, which came down to something very basic—using the wrong product for her skin type. From there we were able to develop a clear path to skin wellness by using a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) specific for her skin. Two weeks later, the problem was resolved and my daughter’s skin had completely cleared up.

This became the foundation of our company, mySkin, and our two skincare products, Dermograph and OKU.

My Own Aha Moment

2015: Back to the Future— Year of the Wearables Fast-forward to the present and one will quickly come to realize that 2015 is the Year of the Wearables. The wearables market, which is forecast to grow to $11.61 billion by 2020 (www.marketsandmarkets.com), is expanding at an exponential rate with hundreds of products either hitting the market or testing their wherewithal on Kickstarter every week. And it’s not just eyewear or wrist wear that is gaining interest; there were some very exciting wearables and cool gadgets noted recently at CES by Wired Magazine (www.wired.com), including the Parrot Pot robot plant feeder, the SmartMat, your newest master yoga teacher, and healthrelated computer gadgets such as a lighter that tracks your cigarette intake and Fitguard, a mouthpiece that measures concussions.

Morgan Stanley recently predicted the wearable category could top 1 billion devices by 2029. Considering this and NPD Group’s 2014 Wearable Technology www.GCImagazine.com

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Beauty Tec

Simplifying Self Diagnosis First, we realized that consumers just didn’t have the time to devote to researching and evaluating what the right products were for their skin type and lifestyle. As a result, we developed a consumer-powered site called mySkin.com to help consumers find the right skin care products based on what worked for other consumers just like them (who we call “skin twins”).

Many variables affect skin health and appearance—genetics, lifestyle, health condition and environment, to name a few.

Imagine finding your “skin twin,” someone with the same profile, and learning what works for him/her. Utilizing scientific principles and highly sophisticated algorithms, mySkin analyzes these variables for deeper insight into how products work on different skin.

We looked at thousands of product experiences and preferences for similar skin types to identify those most effective, then developed a community to be as unbiased as possible. We don’t make, sell or promote skin care products on our site, or take advertising from skin care manufacturers.

Our mission is to provide people with the information and tools to help them make better decisions, while we remain independent and neutral.

Dermograph: for Skincare Professionals We took our approach a step further and developed a professional system called the dermograph (www.dermograph.com), which estheticians and beauty advisors can use to determine what skincare areas to focus on for their clients. This is now being used on five continents. Leveraging these learnings, we continued to push forward in our quest to empower the consumer with tools that will help them navigate the confusing world of skincare.

OKU: Mobile-connected Tech Next, we focused on consumers and antiaging needs, and developed OKU (www.getoku.com), an iPhone-connected device developed specifically for looking after and maintaining the wellness of

consumers’ skin from the comfort of one’s home.

Consumers connect OKU to their iPhone, download the app, scan their skin as often as they like and receive real-time personalized skincare advice to help their skin achieve its optimal youthful potential.

OKU sees what the human eye can’t by literally looking under the skin.

It takes a scan of the user’s skin, analyzes it in The mobile-enabled OKU assesses users’ skin issues. detail, takes into account the user’s lifestyle information and provides them with an easy to understand value called the SkinScore. This will tell the user how their skin is faring and identifies areas for improvement.

The system then sets a daily goal toward Consumers today hold the keys to their unlocking the youthful best of the user’s overall health and wellness. I believe the key skin. OKU provides advice on users’ growth in wearables for 2015 and beyond lifestyle and diet and will recommend the will come in the area of health and wellness: right products for their current issue, or the from devices like the iGrow, which uses right routine to improve their skin wellness. low-level laser treatment to stimulate hair Much like a personal trainer, it helps get follicles, to Apple’s HealthKit on the iPhone, users’ skin in the best shape and lets them to OKU, a personal skin coach. take charge of their skin.

Google has also moved into the medical

Tech Companies: Empowering Consumers

Cutting Through the Confusion mySkin, dermograph and OKU were founded to answer not only my daughter’s skin issues, but also address the consumer confusion in finding the right product for an individual’s skin type. There are more than 150,000 skin care products in the United States alone. Consumers are clearly confused and overwhelmed by the number of products out there and how to make the right choices for their needs. We are not here to sell skin care products; what we care about is that consumers use the right product for their skin.

Beautiful and healthy skin matters. There are real implications to higher salaries, higher self-confidence and a happier life, all having to do with the quality of one’s skin. We realized very early on that if we give the right tools to the consumer, then they can make the right lifestyle and diet choices, and find the right skin care products without having to go to experts looking for answers, answers that can be found in the comfort of their own home and from others just like them.

contact lens market, developing a prototype lens that can monitor blood glucose levels by the second. No more pricking your finger and taking blood samples! Finally, Sensible Baby has developed a device that parents put into their baby’s night clothes to monitor their temperature, orientation and movement and which sends an alarm to a connected smart phone if there is a problem.

Are we going to become our own doctors?

Certainly not. But in non-life-threatening areas I predict that self-diagnosis will be the next big leap in wearables. n GCI

Rahul Mehendale is the CEO and co-founder of mySkin, Inc. a leading enabler of personalized skincare. mySkin’s customers span ultra-luxury brands such as La Prairie, and spas across the world. Mehendale is a serial entrepreneur (co-founded StopLift and Pace Analytics). As a management consultant with Deloitte, he helped found team the innovation strategy practice. His clients included the world’s largest medical products manufacturers, a leading women’s beauty brand and the largest global search firm. He graduated MBA with distinction from Harvard Business School, MS from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. Rahul can be found either at work, with his two daughters and wife, or scrambling to hit the ball at the tennis court.

36 Beauty Tec GCI June 2015

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Antarctic Ocean

OiIy skin under control

AMELIORATION OF OILY SKIN

Initial time

14 days

Lipotec LLC 22 Hudson Place, Suite 4N Hoboken, NJ 07030, United States Tel: +1 (201) 8501213 Fax: +1 (201) 8501212 E-mail: salesoffice@lipotec.com REQUEST A SAMPLE / USE CODE: GCI06

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28 days

matmarine™ blue ingredient reduces the levels of sebum through decreasing the induction of MC5-R (Melanocortin-5 Receptor) promoter, which is found in differentiated sebocytes and, therefore, key to the accumulation of lipids.

The number of pores, the total area and the intensity of the skin shininess diminished in vivo by 20.5%, 18.8% and 17.0%, respectively, after 14 days of applying a cream with 5% matmarine™ blue ingredient, leading to a perfect matt effect to combination and oily skin through marine biotechnology.

All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation. © 2014 The Lubrizol Corporation.

5/15/15 8:54 AM

The latest in Packaging innovation

SUPPLIER NEWS

Corpack

Corpack las launched its new “Twin-Pack,” a double-container unit for new and interesting product combinations, such as sun and after-sun care, shampoo and conditioner, and shower gel and peeling.

Consumer advantages for two-in-one bottles include space-saving for home and travel, ease of use, and intelligent product combinations.

All materials used for injection- and extrusion-blow can be utilized (i.e., PP, PE, PET, etc.), and the product capacities (mL) can be proportionately adjusted as needed (i.e., 50/50, 40/60, etc.).

The first completed version is 150mL/150mL. www.corpack.de

Flexible Pouch Packaging

Aptar Beauty + Home’s Mini Symphony Frost oval tube top accomodates portable and convenient product formats. The 3 oz tube features the 15 mm cap, as seen in up & up ultra sheer sunscreen lotion.

think small

Aptar Beauty + Home’s Mini Symphony Frost

Increased Portability

Birchwood Contract Manufacturing

Birchwood Contract Manufacturing now offers facilities for custom flexible pouch packaging, including mix, fill and seal of liquids, creams, powders, granulars, towelettes and pads. The manufacturing capacity can accommodate short run quantities of 5,000 to production volume in the millions. The company’s pouch designs include tear-offs, dual packets, hang-hole pouches, pouch samples with promotional sleeves, coupons and more. www.birchwoodcontract.com

HDPE and flexible plastic will comprise 74% of global hair care packaging unit growth through 2019, according to Euromonitor (www.euromonitor.com). Hair care packaging sales will grow at a CAGR of 3% through the forecast period. HDPE bottles are the most common packaging for conditioners; flexible plastic is the most common pack type for shampoos. HDPE bottles are generally favored in China and Brazil, while consumers in India, Indonesia and the Philippines seek out single-use products in flexible plastic, which offers immediacy and affordability, according to Euromonitor.

Low

Sonoco has announced first quarter 2015 net sales of $1.20 billion, up 1.5% from 2014’s $1.19 billion. The company will spend approximately $20 million to purchase a new triplex laminator and rotogravure printing press to produce high-quality laminates with minimum material waste, across a wide range of flexible substrates with varying thicknesses and a variety of adhesive systems. Both the triplex laminator and rotogravure press are being purchased from Bobst Corporation and are targeted for startup in the second quarter of 2016.

Silgan Plastics is constructing a new 335,000-sq-ft production facility in Hazelwood, Missouri, an expansion that comes in addition to the recently announced greenfield facility in the Borough of North East, Pennsylvania. The facility is expected to be operational in late 2015.

Hazen has won a number of honors at the 2015 management meeting of the Association of International Metallizers, Coaters and Laminators. Hazen took the awards in the decorative/display category, including a technical award as metallizer and converter for Victoria’s Secret Angel Eau de Parfum from Victoria’s Secret Beauty, designed

by TPC. The company applied its Ultracure acrylic silver 48-gauge metallized polyester to the winning package. Hazen also won the healthcare, cosmetics and toiletries category, receiving both technical and marketing honors for Victoria’s Secret Beauty, produced for TPC. The technical award recognized Hazen for Victoria’s Secret Love, featuring Ultracure acrylic silver duplex.

Quadpack Group has formalized an agreement between Beauty Cluster Barcelona and the Japan Cosmetic Center. The agreement will facilitate export between the two organisations, giving members direct access to products, beauty companies and distributors. Beauty Cluster Barcelona now has more than 50 members that cover the breadth of the beauty value chain.

PEOPLE Curtis Packaging (Sandy Hook, Connecticut) has appointed Larry Adams to its sales team.

Adams has 27 years of experience in the paper and packaging industry.

Larry Adams

Two-in-one Bottle

glass bottle, Pump and metalized overcap

Lumson’s simply designed 30 mL Circus frosted glass bottle, aluminum-covered AB266 pump and red metalized AB266 overcap were used for the launch of Beiersdorf’s New Eucerin Volume Filler Concentrate anti-aging skin product. The packaging also includes a silver aluminum collar and white actuator. www.lumson.it

Lumson

WRAP UP

38 Wrap Up GCI June 2015

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airless applicators & Packaging

Fusion Packaging has introduced a Direct Effect Curved Tip Airless applicator that features a dual-resin tip and ergonomic curved design that contours to the face. The applicator combines a single-wall polypropylene bottle, collar, overcap and applicator with a smooth, non-porous thermoplastic elastomer tip for an application that massages product into the skin without binding or sticking. The company’s Direct Effect Single Rollerball Airless features cooling and massaging benefits and combines stainless steel with a plush TPE ring. The angled applicator is designed to mold to the eye and lip contours. The Direct Effect Dual Rollerball Airless is intended for skin care applications and features two cooling stainless steel spheres to stimulate the under-eye area for promoting circulation and de-puffing benefits. The applicators can be customized with a range of decoration techniques, including custom color injection or spray, silkscreen, hot stamp, heat transfer label or UV metalization.

The TPE components can also be personalized with custom colors, depending on brand preference.

Fusion Packaging has launched its Tru Jumbo and Millennium Jumbo airless bottles (pictured), which are appropriate for cleansers, bonus sizes and body products and are available in 50mL, 75-mL and 100-mL capacities. The True pack options feature a tiered actuator and include airless bottles, atmospheric bottles, airless tubes and jumbo airless bottles. The Millennium Jumbo collection features a modern profile with an ergonomic actuator and curved collar design. The 41-mm diameter, all-polypropylene package can accommodate custom decoration elements, such as silk screen, hot stamp, heat transfer label and vacuum metallization techniques. The Millennium is compatible with most product formulations, while its airless dispensing technology provides quicker strokes for precision dosing and a metal-free product path for formula protection and preservation. www.fusionpkg.com

Lumson

Larry Adams

Fusion Packaging

ed

Silgan Plastics

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Silgan Plastics has developed a lightweight, polyethylene tube with a snap-on head that accommodates a 2-inch (50-mm) lowprofile Giflor flip-top tube closure sourced by TricorBraun. The low-profile polypropylene closure uses as much as 54% less resin than its traditional counterpart, potentially delivering an overall material savings of 30%. Resin usage can drop by 10,000 lb for every 1 million tubes, according to the supplier, and can accommodate the shipping of up to 25% more tubes in a carton and more tubes/closures per truckload, reducing freight costs. In addition, the tube/closure combination reduces the volume of fuel required and the amount of truck-generated CO2 going into the atmosphere. www.silganplastics.com

2015

www.GCImagazine.com

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Wrap Up dispenser tech

Qosmedix

Qosmedix has introduced a collection of sampling jars featuring writeable labels.

The 3-gram and 5-gram clear polystyrene jars are available with a choice of clear, white or black caps. Each pack includes a sheet of white, round writeable labels.

The company has also launched its Cleopatra Collection of blackand-gold cosmetic bags, including large, medium, small and clutch variations. The bags feature piping on the edges for extra structure.

Qosmedix also offers nylon mesh pouches that include a metal zipper closure. The bags are available in red, black, pink, silver and gold. www.qosmedix.com

VariBlend has introduced its MiniMix 20-mm dispenser, 30-mL PET bottle and 40-mm MidiMix variable dispenser. The 20-mm MiniMix is appropriate for lip, eye and face color cosmetics and other on-the-go personal care products based upon a fixed or variable delivery ratio of two different formulas with no residual product. According to the company, “A tightly webbed, precision matrix of 19 separate nozzles distributes select ratios of two thoroughly blended formulas onto a surface applicator, resulting in a freshly blended, smooth delivery.” The 30-mm PET bottle is designed for on-the-go beauty and healthcare products. The bottle, made by Sonoco, integrates the VariBlend 40-mm dispenser and incorporates a new, secure locking design. VariBlend’s 40-mm MidiMix variable dispenser offers custom blending capability for makers of cosmetics and personal care products that require small-to-medium dosages.

It is available in a variety of nozzle/container combinations, including single and dual spout nozzles. www.variblend.com VariBlend

Sampling Jars with Writeable Labels

40 Wrap Up GCI June 2015

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www

Exploring the Future

of Product Development University of Pennsylvania Philadelphia, PA

Two Ways to Learn

June 22–23, 2015

Featured Topics

1) Presentations

• The Changing Face of Beauty: Customization and Hybrid Products

• Packaging as an Extension of Formulation • Building a Robust Product Profile: What Marketing Wants and R&D Needs

• Demystifying (and Defending) Cosmetic Science to Consumers • Texture, Sensory Cues and More: Inventing a Product Experience

2) Hands-on Workshops

Two-Day Registration Includes

Full Day of Interactive Labs and Workshops

Two Continental Breakfasts

Networking Cocktail Reception

Full Conference with Hair or Sun/Skin Science Sessions

Two Networking Lunches

For more information and to register, visit Summit.CosmeticsandToiletries.com CT_Summit_2015_ExploreFuture_FP_GCI1505.indd 1

4/14/15 3:24 PM

MAIN INGREDIENTS

Ingredients now on the market

SUPPLIER NEWS Lubrizol has received a Good Manufacturing Practice certification according to the European Federation for Cosmetics Ingredients (EFfCI). The certification is based on guidelines for product quality and industry hygiene during the manufacturing process. Lubrizol’s certification applies to its manufacturing of acrylic acid polymers in Kallo, Belgium.

Affiliates of INOLEX (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) have signed a definitive agreement to acquire ieS LABO (Oraison, France), a manufacturer of natural and organic plant and herbal extracts for the cosmetic industry. The acquisition will pair well with INOLEX’s green chemistry expertise in transforming natural vegetable materials into functional cosmetic ingredients. INOLEX and ieS LABO will collaborate on the launch of novel natural ingredients in the coming months.

Ashland Specialty Ingredients’ N-DurHance A-1000 conditioning polymer has won a 2015 China Personal Care & Cosmetics Innovation Award. The honor recognizes the acrylate-based homopolymer’s hair repair and conditioning properties, which restore virgin hair qualities.

Lessonia’s Celluloscrub took the bronze award during the Green Ingredient Awards 2015. Celluloscrub is a 100% biodegradable and renewal scrub that replaces polyethylene beads.

Amyris and Squalan Natural Health B.V. have entered into agreements for the production and marketing of Neossance Squalane-based skin care and personal care products. The emollient, produced from plant sugars, will be applied to products sold to retailers and consumers, primarily in the European Union. Neossance Squalane has moisturizing properties that reportedly boost skin texture, smoothness and silkiness, without a greasy feel. Under terms of the deal, Squalan will continue to be managed by founders Leslie van der Meijden and Monique Hugen. Amyris is investing in the company, and will have an option to acquire an ownership stake and the right to appoint a member to Squalan’s board of directors.

Sumitomo Corp. and Summit Pharmaceuticals International Corp. have acquired a cosmetic ingredient distribution business from Kyowa Hakko Europe GmbH. The move gives further entree into the European market for Sumitomo, which accounts for approximately 30% of the global cosmetics ingredients market. Under terms of the agreement, The Sumitomo Group will purchase the right to market cosmetic ingredients, including vitamins and moisturizing agents for hair and skin care products, with sales business conducted primarily in Germany, as well as other European countries, and the Middle East. Primary clients will include major and national cosmetic manufacturers and distributors. The Sumitomo Group acquired Presperse in 2010, and invested in Cosmotec International Especialidades Cosmeticas Ltda in 2013.

People Q Laboratories, Inc. has named Matthew Lemp as chemistry leader. He is responsible for sample flow through in the chemistry lab and will have a role in analyst training and scheduling, new client development and expanding lab capabilities. Lemp has a B.S. in Chemistry from Xavier University.

patented sunscreen

Skinvisible Inc., through its wholly-owned subsidiary Kintari International Inc., has launched Skinbrella, a patented sunscreen that meets or exceeds all FDA requirements for a broad-spectrum, 80-minute water-resistant sunscreen. The ingredient is SPF 30 and glides on smoothly without any sticky after feel, while still allowing the skin to breath naturally. It also meets the requirements to be labeled “broad spectrum”, signifying it provides both UVA and UVB protection. www.kintari.com

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in-cosmetics 2015 in Barcelona microemulsion facial cleansing

Croda’s Cithrol 10GTIS is an advanced surfactant for oil-based facial cleansing. The company noted, “Microemulsions and oil cleansers are a new generation of cleansing products, delivering excellent performance and meeting the trend in using oils in skin care.” The ingredient supports the formulation of facial cleansers comprising oil and water in a crystal clear microemulsion, maintaining the ideal hydro-lipophilic balance required for this type of high-performance system. Cithrol 10GTIS can also be used to create oil cleansers that emulsify on contact with water so they can be easily rinsed from the skin. These systems are very efficient at removing long-wear and waterproof makeup. www.croda.com

sugar-based surfactants

Clariant presented its sustainable sugar-based sulfate-free surfactants, GlucoTain. The surfactants feature sensory benefits through individual foam structures for mild and natural skin and hair care products. The range is available in Clear, Clean, Flex and Care varieties. Clear delivers large bubbles for bubble baths and revitalizing shampoos. Clean and Flex impart medium-sized bubbles for facial cleansers and anti-aging shampoos. Care imparts small bubbles for moisturizing and conditioning sensory in baby shampoos and pampering facial cleansers. www.clariant.com

glycolic acid & hydrolyzed lecithins

Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG presented its GlyAcid range by Crosschem, a high-purity glycolic acid that is free of formaldehyde and formic acid. liposomes and nanoemulsions.

The company also showed its BergaMuls HL hydrolyzed lecithins. The emulsifiers are used in formulations for sensitive skin. Berg + Schmidt also presented its ECOCERT BergaCare SB Organic from its shea butter range and the BergaSoft series, comprising sulfate-free, non-ethoxylated surfactants with good foaming properties. Finally, the company showed its BergaScrub ecological exfoliation formulations. A special manufacturing process gives the particles a smoother surface, for painless exfoliation. berg-schmidt.com

silicones for hair and skin

Dow Corning presented a hair cream demo and BB cream; both included the company’s ES-5300 Formulation Aid, which provides a light, powdery feel and a nude effect for radiant skin.

EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend was featured in a lip stain for a velvety, smooth feel. The same material imparted moisturization, conditioning and shine in a hair perfume. The company featured 9701 Cosmetic Powder in a men’s concealer and beard lotion for a smooth feel, sebum absorption and anti-irritant effects. www.dowcorning.com

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MAIN INGREDIENTS hair care ingredients

Ashland Inc. presented a range of hair care solutions at in-cosmetics Barcelona.

Its prototype formulation, called Dandruff Defense Conditioning Shampoo, was based on the N-Hance 4572 deposition polymer, which efficiently delivers zinc pyrithione to the scalp. A Conditioning Spray Milk with the Dynagen biofunctional, left hair fuller, stronger and shinier. Ashland also demonstrated a working spray with the Advantage 4910 polymer. A Durable Intensive Moisture Softening Shampoo formulation featuring Ashland’s N-DurHance A-1000 conditioning polymer left hair looking soft, conditioned and shiny. The company’s polyelectrolyte polymer complex mends split ends and was demoed in a Continuity Daily-use Conditioner.

Ashland’s Aquaflex XL-30 amphoteric polymer features unique film properties that boost hair volume in styling and rinse-off applications. www.ashland.com/personalcare

Skin-lightening anti-aging active

Beraca has launched Beracare BBATM, a skin-lightening active ingredient with antiaging properties. In skin care formulations, the natural, organic-certified ingredient imparts a lightening effect resulting from the reduction of melanin synthesis, and anti-aging and tone-restoring benefits via stimulation of the production of proteins, such as collagen and hyaluronic acid.

Beracare can reportedly serve as a replacement for alphaarbutin. www.beraca.com

Silicones

Bluestar Silicones has released Mirasil CM5 HP. The ingredient possesses a residual level of cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) below 0.1%. The company’s Bluestar Silicones Mirasil Serum treats dry and damaged hair for shine, a silky and soft feel, heat protection, moisturization and antifrizz. The serum can be used directly or in combination with vegetal oils, vitamins, natural extracts and UV filters. www.bluestarsilicones.com

skin care actives

Lonza showcased ingredients for skin tone, preservation and formulation chassis enhancements. The company presented its oilsoluble biotech active, ReGeniStem Brightening, which is derived from the meristematic stem cells of licorice. In formulations, the ingredient brightens skin and evens skin tone without irritation. The company launched Niacinamide USP PC, a multi-benefit active that is low in niacin and helps to enhance the tone and texture of skin and improve its overall appearance. Lonza’s Geogard LSA preservative blend, is a broad-spectrum antimicrobial blend comprising several non-traditional ingredients that have wide global approvals. The company’s Polyaldo polyglycerol esters series is manufactured using natural, renewable resources and are free of 1,4-dioxane and any of its precursors. These natural emulsifiers are appropriate for both rinse-off and leave-on applications providing moisturization properties along with a pleasant skin feeling. www.lonza.com

applied propanediol

DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Company LLC has announced the third annual Zemea Innovation Award winners celebrating formulation breakthroughs featuring Zemea propanediol, a preservative-boosting humectant and solvent. The winners included the MARBERT line of cosmetics and personal care products developed by Straub GmbH, including body lotions, deodorants, anti-aging eye serums and creams, and cleansing gels. The ingredient imparts its hydration and sensorial properties, preservative-boosting efficacy, and lack of skin irritation or sensitization to the formulations.

Bio-Botanica, Inc. was recognized for its ZeaBotanicals, a collection of more than 140 botanical extracts based on Zemea for natural personal care and cosmetic applications. CAM-D Technologies was recognized for its line of solid CAMDsorb odor and pollutant absorbers that are used in personal care and home care applications. In this application, Zemea provides a reaction medium in the preparation of the active ingredient zinc ricinoleate. www.duponttateandlyle.com

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EVENTS june 2015

Products and SERVICES

showcase

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

4-5 innoCos Summit Madrid, Spain www.innocossummit.com

9-11 HBA Global Expo New York www.hbaexpo.com

10-11 CosmeticBusiness Munich www.cosmetic-business.com/ tradefair/en

15-16 in-cosmetics Korea 2015 Seoul, South Korea www.in-cosmeticsasia.com/in-cosmetics-Korea

22-23 C&T Summit Philadelphia Summit.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

july 2015 12-14 Cosmoprof North America Las Vegas www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

september 2015 21-23 IFSCC Conference 2015 Zurich, Switzerland www.ifscc2015.com

october 2015 14-15 SCC California Suppliers Day Long Beach, CA www.caliscc.org

To reserve space in this section, contact Kim Jednachowski kjednachowski@allured.com • 1-630-344-6054

Tom Harris tharris@allured.com • 1-201-445-4702

Jane Evison jane-evison@btconnect.com • 44(0)-1430-441685

www.GCImagazine.com

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Products and Services Showcase 45

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PRODUCTS and SERVICES

showcase CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING HEALTH • BEAUTY • OTC • HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS A TOTAL SERVICE – Formulation to Drop Shipping Long and Short Runs FDA-EPA Registered Visit our web site at www.ecometics.com 19 Concord St., So. Norwalk, CT 06854

PACKAGING

ECOMETICS INC. 203-853-7856

To reserve space in this section, contact

Kim Jednachowski

kjednachowski@allured.com 1-630-344-6054

Tom Harris

tharris@allured.com 1-201-445-4702

Jane Evison

jane-evison@btconnect.com 44(0)-1430-441685

46 Products and Services Showcase GCI June 2015

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www

2015

PACKAGING

SERVICES

For quality custom reprints or e-prints, please contact:

Foster Printing Services 1-866-879-9144 sales@fosterprinting.com www.fosterprinting.com

www.GCImagazine.com

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Ad Index The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

Page

Advertiser

Phone

WEB SITE

AkzoNobel

1-888-331-6212

www.akzonobel.com/personalcare

25

Alpha Packaging

1-314-427-4300

www.alphap.com

11

BASF

1-973-245-6000

www.carecreations.basf.com

33

Bayer Materialscience AG

49-2148-4766-9757

www.bayermaterialscience.com

Biosil Technologies, Inc.

1-201-825-8800

www.biosiltech.com

Brookfield Engineering Labs, Inc.

1-508-946-6200

www.brookfieldengineering.com

Centerchem, Inc.

1-203-822-9800

www.centerchem.com

41

Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit

1-630-653-2155

summit.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

27

Fusion Packaging

1-214-747-2004

www.fusionpkg.com

16

ICMAD

1-847-991-4499

www.icmad.org

Cover 2

Inoac Packaging Group, Inc.

1-502-348-5159

www.inoacusa.com

Cover 3

JSN Packaging Products, Inc.

1-949-458-0050

www.jsn.com

37

Lipotec, LLC

1-201-850-1213

www.lipotec.com

31

Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.

1-216-447-5000

www.lubrizol.com/personalcare

29

Proprietary Nutritional, Inc.

1-519-647-2071

www.pnibrands.com

40

SCC California/Suppliers’ Day

1-212-668-1500

www.caliscc.org

43

Simplex Filler Co., Inc.

1-707-265-6801

www.simplexfiller.com

44

SoGeCos/Cosmoprof Las Vegas

1-702-297-1060

www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

15

Spectra Colors Corp.

1-201-997-0606

www.spectracolors.com

39

Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.

1-800-985-2228

www.sundeepinc.com

42

The Beauty Company

1-202-686-4844

www.thebeautycompany.co

5

U.S. Nonwovens Corp.

1-631-952-0100

www.usnonwovens.com

9

Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.

1-973-465-1200

www.welch-holme-clark.com

3

8 21 Cover 4

for advertising info Kim Jednachowski

Tom Harris

Jane Evison

Paige Crist

All US States Except NJ & PA kjednachowski@allured.com 1-630-344-6054

NJ & PA, Canada, Central & South America tharris@allured.com 1-201-445-4702

Europe & Asia jane-evison@btconnect.com 44-(0)-1430-441685

Fragrance pcrist@allured.com 1-630-730-9240

48 Ad Index GCI Jiune 2015

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