Global Cosmetic Industry, GCI October 2014 by yvesrocherdemx

CONTENTS OCTOBER 2014

n VOLUME 182, NUMBER 8

features 18

Case Study: Creating a Social Shopping Situation A case study of Laura Geller Beauty’s collaboration with social community and commerce company Blucarat. BY KIERAN TAYLOR

Feeding Her Insatiable Appetite for Nail Polish An inside look at the 2014 PinkReport, “Nailed: The Allure of Color.” BY DENISE HERICH

Reversing Westernization Future global growth in skin care is expected to be driven by consumer preferences in Asia-Pacific. BY NICOLE TYRIMOU, EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL

Legitimizing Claims The science behind proving beauty products work. BY SARA MASON

Total Evacuation Consumers want all they can get of their beauty products, so it is up to beauty brands and packaging suppliers to figure out the best way to deliver. BY ABBY PENNING

Samples Are Still the New Black An evolving beauty industry can have brand marketers guessing at what techniques will work best to get products into consumers’ hands, but samples continue to be one of the strongest opportunities to do so. BY MOTO OKAWA

online Stem Cells and Growth Factors: What You Should Know BY BEN JOHNSON

Another Look at Plant Stem Cells BY SILVIA HICKMAN

www.GCImagazine.com

Contents

CONTENTS

inside scoop

“

The East’s strong influence on skin care has made it the source of three global skin care trends that are reshaping the market.

”

Reversing Westernization (Page 26)

departments columns 6

Starting Point: The Balancing Truth BY JEFF FALK

Chemical Reaction: It Ain’t Necessarily So BY STEVE HERMAN

Go: Innovations, ideas and insights

Street Level: New products, promotions and events

Fragrance Focus: News about the fragrance industry

Added Value: Ideas through people, places and things

Wrap Up: The latest in packaging innovation

Main Ingredients: Ingredients now on the market

resources

Contents

Products & Services Showcase

Advertiser Index

GCI October 2014

The

Secret

Levitation

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EDITORIAL Jeff Falk Editor in Chief Abby Penning Associate Editor

1-630-344-6071/jfalk@allured.com 1-630-344-6067/apenning@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES Tom Harris US (NJ & PA), Canada, Central & South America Kim Jednachowski US (except NJ & PA) Jane Evison Europe & Asia Paige Crist Fragrance Kasia Smialkowski Coordinator

1-201-445-4702/tharris@allured.com 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com 44-(0)-1430-441685/jane-evison@btconnect.com 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT & MARKETING Steve Owen Brand Specialist

1-630-344-6027/sowen@allured.com

PUBLISHER Maria Romero Executive Assistant

1-630-344-6062/mromero@allured.com

DESIGN DEPARTMENT Andrew Frederick Design Manager Bryan Crowe Production Manager Hon Bannapradist Senior Graphic Designer

1-630-344-6042/bcrowe@allured.com

CORPORATE Janet Ludwig President Linda Getner Controller Linda Schmitt Director of Marketing Sandy Chapin Group Show Director

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OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS Alluredbooks Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit Face & Body Spa Conference and Expo Perfumer & Flavorist magazine Skin Inc. magazine World Perfumery Congress

Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published ten times per year as Jan./Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2014. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales. Single copies: $10; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.) Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com

Contents

GCI October 2014

Starting

n by JEFF FALK

Point

Question Everything

W JEFF FALK

Editor in Chief

GCI MAGAZINE Editorial Advisory BOARD Alisa Marie Beyer

Coastal Salt & Soul

MARIE ALICE DIBON

Alice Communications, Inc.

Ada Polla

Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group

Art Rich, phD

A. Rich Development

Rick Ruffolo

R4 Innovations

Cristina Samuels

Mode Cosmetics

Laura Setzfand Epiphany

hen I was younger, I thought I knew everything, but as I got older, I realized there is more and more I didn’t know and I became more apt to readily admit this—but I do think the ability to recognize incongruities improves. Consumers (and people in general) often take reports published in the media as fact, often trusting their gut over the brain and not questioning what’s behind those findings. This blind trust, in our industry’s case, has led to the omission of many cosmetic ingredients from products deemed unsafe by questionable scientific sources. We create paradoxes for ourselves, and it impacts what and how we sell and purchase. To that end, I’d simply like to share an excerpt of an Aug. 8, 2014, NPR blog post (“What Are Those Parabens Doing In My Tortilla?) written by Neda Ulaby. Parabens are chemical preservatives, and I’ve spent years trying to avoid them in beauty products and sunscreen. But to be honest, I’m not even sure why. Probably, I read someplace it was a good idea, and when you’re living in a world so awash in mysterious chemicals and antibiotics, it just seemed like an easy thing to control. But I discovered that parabens are in all kinds of food. Scientists in Albany, N.Y., found them in 90 percent of the food they bought in local markets — they wrote about it in a 2013 study published by the journal Environmental Science & Technology. So how much should we worry about parabens? I called Dr. Mokoto Mukai, who studies food safety at Cornell University, to find out. She told me that most of the concerns about parabens in food arose from a 2004 study published in the Journal of Applied Toxicology. But she wasn’t all that impressed with the findings, which claimed a link between breast tumors and the concentration of parabens in the tissues. “You see a lot of shampoos and beauty products advertising now as paraben-free because of the media attention that study received, not because of the science itself,” she said. The problem with the study, Mukai said, is that it didn’t compare the tumorous tissue to normal breast tissue, to see if similar concentrations of parabens could be found there, too. And she said the researchers only examined tissues in one part of the breast — the part nearest to the armpit. “So their suggestion was that deodorant was causing breast tumors,” she said. “Because they didn’t have a patient without a breast tumor, they didn’t have a control group. So that [research] doesn’t really tell us anything.” Mukai said some parabens are naturally occurring. They act as antimicrobial agents in some fruits, wine and other edible plants. When I asked her why we need to add synthetic ones to our food, Mukai said, well, parabens are cheap. As a preservative, they get lots of food to lots of people who need it. “Parabens have been used for more than 50 years ... and they are safe,” she said. She said no direct link has ever been found between parabens and cancer. But more research needs to be done, she said, to understand whether they have any effect on health. I think we should question everything, and in the case of parabens, the questions have been valid. What do we do when the most vocal conclusions aren’t valid? I’m not entirely sure, but I believe reinforcing those conclusions have very limited benefits. n GCI

6 Starting Point GCI October 2014

06 2014

Get natural

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SELLING

DEVICES

Merging Scientiﬁc, Natural Diagonal Reports’ “Scientific Skincare Consumer and Market 2014” report finds that the concepts of scientific skin care and natural skin care don’t have to be mutually exclusive. According to the research, consumers’ expectations of what a skin care product should deliver have dramatically changed since 2008—with formulations originating in pharma revolutionizing skin care. According to Diagonal Reports, scientific skin care melds the cosmetic with the medical, and has helped democratize the beauty market, making products and treatments that had typically only been achievable for the elite more affordable and widely available. These innovations blurred sales channel and product formats. Additionally, the report acknowledges that natural skin care is a crucial part of the scientific skin care market. It finds the distinction between the natural and scientific is unwarranted, saying it is artificially imposed and does not reflect market actualities in the U.S., Europe and Asia—noting that scientific skin care draws on “alternative” (i.e. “natural”) medical traditions from around the world to develop products and treatments. In these traditions, the natural and the scientific are not mutually exclusive concepts. This is most clear in Asia, with traditional Chinese medicine as the best example of this concept. The Chinese skin care market can draw heavily on acupuncture and a wide range of traditional medical practices, according to Diagonal Reports. And the same pattern is repeated in the West, where scientific skin care taps into a longestablished tradition of complementary and alternative medicine. Diagonal Reports proposes that this fundamental misunderstanding about market reality and consumer attitudes has led to missed opportunities to expand ways to define the skin care category and subcategories.

GO!

In a post titled “New Products + Consumer Education: The Keys to Success for At-home Beauty Device Market in 2014,” market research firm Kline & Company looked into the ongoing growth of at-home beauty devices, highlighting the category hot spots and standout products as well as what skin care concerns consumers are eager to address with this type of product. According to the post, “Building on a solid foundation, the at-home beauty devices market continues to gain prominence globally. Marketers continue to lure consumers with improved technologies on existing products, new entries altogether and high-priced anti-aging devices that utilize laser technology. To date, cleansing seems to be the sweet spot. “Almost 83% of the respondents surveyed indicate that the most important factors that contribute to the overall credibility of a device are clinical trials, a brands reputation and FDA approval. Additionally, the vast majority of consumers who do not use devices said that they did not know about them. This signals the need for greater awareness and education among brand stewards in order to build sales.” The post concludes by noting, “Continuous innovation and new technology are vital for the at-home beauty devices businesses to remain competitive and attract more skin care devices users.”

GCI October 2014

Cultural Changes and Beauty At Cosmoprof North America, Pearlfisher explored the future of beauty, health and wellness through an interactive multi-media exhibition. The Pearlfisher team highlighted key areas of macro cultural change that shape the future views of beauty with the aim to help visitors understand what these changes mean for their brands and consumers, introducing four key areas (modes of change) to study: • Body Mode focuses on discovering new influences that question the idealized body. New role models, new science, new technology, new wisdom and new culture all contribute to redesigning our bodies to be strong and optimizing our health. • Connect Mode is centered around re-establishing our relationships and redefining our place in the world by merging both real and virtual lives to find a common ground. • Luxury Mode helps us to find a new perspective on our challenges, ideas and ideals. It shows us how the world sets new limits for our ultimate desires. • Taste Mode explores how health and the health of society is now our most sought after wealth, and that food is both fuel and pleasure—i.e. pleasure in necessities.

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Women 45+ Seeking Personalized Skin Care Consumer market research company Canadean found more than a fifth of women aged 45 and older are on the lookout for individualized and customized skin care products. However, with the huge amount of different anti-aging creams, lotions and tonics available, women are having a difficult time choosing the right product for their skin type. Instead they prefer to stick to a simpler regime, as they feel that the choice among the vast selection is time-consuming and confusing. Joanne Hardman, analyst at Canadean, notes of this trend, “Women develop their skin care routine in their 20s and stick with it. However, skin changes over the years, meaning skin care regimes should be adapted along the way.” Canadean sees a great potential for brands that offer women over 45 a personalized shopping experience, one in which they can learn more about different skin care products and effective regimes for their skin types. Hardman believes brands that provide something unique to their customers will be successful. “There is a real growth opportunity for brands that offer a fine, tailored experience to women over 45, as they are creating brand loyalty among their customers,” she says. As an example, Canadean shares that Nivea’s Face Facts Boutique has created a new campaign that invites women between the ages of 40 and 60 to experience the products through multisensory sampling stations. A Nivea skin expert will provide free skin consultations using a proprietary skin analysis technology, and advise on the best skin care routines and answer any questions related to aging skin.

GO! 9

street level

new products, promotions and events

BRAND NEWS

Lash-growing Liner

Elizabeth Arden Inc. announced investment funds affiliated with Rhône Capital have agreed to purchase $50 million of redeemable preferred stock of Elizabeth Arden and also will receive warrants to purchase 2.5 million shares of the company’s common stock. Rhône Capital also has advised Elizabeth Arden that, subject to market conditions and applicable legal or regulatory approvals, it intends to increase its ownership of the company’s common stock over time.

LashEm

LashEm added Colour Strokes Liquid Eyeliner, formulated with a peptide-rich complex called Sympeptide, to its product line. Designed to stimulate and enhance natural lashes, the product, which derives its lash-boosting benefits from natural plant and flower extracts, also uses a QuSome patented delivery system to help reveal lashes that look longer and more voluminous. The product’s precision tip applicator allows for easy use as both an eyeliner and shadow, and it is available in three shades: Blackest Black, Black Pearl and Espresso. www.lashem.com

Butter London announced private equity firm Encore Consumer Capital has made a majority investment in the beauty brand. Under the terms of the agreement, Encore Consumer Capital will form a partnership to help develop and market the beauty company.

Retexturing Serum

Beiersdorf opened a state-of-the-art production center with an integrated research and development center in Silao, Mexico. Envy Medical and Libbs Farmaceutica made an agreement to manufacture, market and sell Envy’s Lumixyl Brightening Creme in Brazil. Phytomer

Phytomer launched Pionniére XMF Radiance Retexturing Serum to offer a new skin texture. Formulated with marine ingredients such as a micro algae, this cream-gel serum also uses Phytomer’s Visible Marine Refiner to create an invisible film that restores hydration, smoothing roughness and refining skin’s texture, and Phytomer’s Extra Marine Filler to stimulate collagen and elastin fibers and hyaluronic acid, smoothing wrinkles. www.phytomerusa.com

Enriching Masks

Brazilian Back

Brazilian Back is a new, do-it-yourself product for men that helps remove back hair. The product’s formula mixes the ingredients used to remove back hair with aloe and other moisturizers to protect skin, and each kit contains one tube of Brazilian Back hair removal cream and one back hair removal application garment. Users apply the cream to the garment, put the garment on for six to eight minutes, and then are able to rinse away the hair with water. Hair is removed far below the skin line, resulting in long-lasting smoothness and a thinner, softer, tapered end. www.brazilianback.com

Mary Kay acted as the official beauty sponsor of season 13 of the Lifetime reality series Project Runway. BareMinerals introduced the brand’s first-ever BareMinerals Shade Shop in Soho in New York. The shop heroes the brand’s complexion products, as the product assortment is merchandised by shade family— light, medium, tan, dark and deep—in an airy, open environment. Mehron sponsored the Game Show Network’s body-painting competition series Skin Wars.

Eco-Beauty Be Good

Eco-Beauty Be Good launched Good Times. Facial Treatment Masks. The silk/cotton masks—which are infused with hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5, natural cucumber and an antiaging botanical complex that includes maqui berry, licorice root, ginkgo biloba leaf, grape seed and hickory bark—trap in the ingredients to the skin, forcing the skin to absorb the nutrients and seal in the moisture. They help provide an instant moisture replenishment and the appearance of more luminous skin. lafreshgroup.com/eco-beauty

P&G announced plans to divest up to 100 of its brands. The multinational company also is partnering with the Malaysia Institute for Supply Chain Innovation (MISI) to field a study, fulfilling a commitment it made earlier in 2014 as part of new goals to achieve zero deforestation in the palm oil supply chain.

Braun unveiled its new branding campaign—#FaceGreatness with Braun Confidence—featuring the NFL and Braun’s new U.S. spokesperson, Seattle Seahawks quarterback Russell Wilson. Birchbox partnered with Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) to create two Limited Edition Boxes featuring finalists and winners chosen from the 2014 Insiders’ Choice Beauty Awards. This is the second year Birchbox and CEW have partnered to provide these limited edition boxes to beauty consumers. Strength of Nature Global announced TV personality Angela Simmons as a brand ambassador for its Beautiful Textures line. GHD appointed celebrity stylist David Babaii as the new brand ambassador for GHD North America. Davines named David Glover its artistic ambassador and Joseph DiMaggio its master session ambassador.

PEOPLE Brian Cornell to CEO and chairman of the board, Target. Neal Kitchen, PhD to executive vice president of strategy and development, HydroPeptide. Christopher Hausman to executive vice president of sales, Glo. Stefano Bronzati to director of sales, Phytomer Group USA.

10 Street Level GCI October 2014

street level Melt Away

Osmosis Colour developed its new Melt Away Gelee makeup remover as a single-swipe makeup eraser to help clean the face after a long day. Using a soothing gel, the makeup remover gently breaks down and “melts” away makeup and other impurities without harming skin thanks to conditioning botanical extracts such as aloe vera and jojoba oil. Additionally, avocado oil further hydrates skin while goji berry extract fights free radicals for skin that feels soft, hydrated and refreshed. Available at www.blush.com. www.osmosisskincare.com

Dior

Designer Christian Dior believed true sophistication and elegance often arose from the combination of unexpected colors, textures and effects, and this belief is reflected in the Dior 5 Couleurs Fall 2014 Color Collection. The collection incudes Dior 5 Couleurs Eyeshadows in shades of Trafalgar #876, Bar #056, Piedde-Poule #096, Carré Bleu #276 and Tutu #846, and these five stay-in-line palettes will be joined by seven additional new shades in October 2014 to make up a new 12-palette permanent Dior 5 Couleur collection. Additionally, The Dior 5 Couleurs Fall 2014 Color Collection includes new Rouge Dior Lipstick, enriched with marine crystals, in hues of Carré d’Or #185, Bar #317, Rose Tutu #354, Rouge Massai #869 and Pied-de-Poule #977, and new Dior Vernis Nail Lacquers in colors Bar #902, Rose Tutu #254, Carré Bleu #796, Massai #853 and Pied-de-Poule #206. Available at Dior counters and www.dior.com.

Osmosis Colour

Targeted Touch

The new Repairing Neck and Decollatage Treatment from Restorsea is specifically formulated to treat this delicate area, to smooth skin and soften fine lines and wrinkles for a more even complexion. The neck and chest have fewer sebaceous glands and little muscle tone, making the area more susceptible to aging. The skin sags over time and loses definition, refinement and elasticity, and once this occurs, it can be difficult to reverse. The Repairing Neck and Decollatage Treatment moisturizes, smoothing fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin tone. And containing Restorsea’s proprietary enzyme Aquabeautine XL, the treatment provides similar results to traditional exfoliants without harsh side effects. Sweet olive, an evergreen shrub, also offers powerful antioxidant protection against free radical damage. Available at www.restorsea.com.

Goldfaden MD unveiled Doctor’s Scrub Advanced. Formulated with pure ruby crystals, this advanced scrub offers an exfoliating treatment aligned with the brand’s philosophy of problem-solution skin care. The ruby crystals are excellent exfoliating agents, removing dead skin cells evenly, along with dirt and oil, without aggravating skin. The scrub also includes organic red tea extract, an antioxidant that inhibits oxidization and fights free radicals, both of which contribute to the aging of skin. Available at Space NK and select Bloomingdales locations, as well as www.dermstore.com, www.beauty.com, www.skinstore.com and www.goldfadenmd.com.

Goldfaden MD

Ruby Crystal Scrub

Ardency Inn launched Modster Manuka Honey Enriched Pigments powdered eye shadows. The manuka honey in the formulations encourages creaminess and staying power, and color payoff is achieved through high levels of pigment, reaching up to 78%. Available in 12 hues including Copper, Rose Gold, Sunday, Heaven, Hell, Vintage Gold, Disco, Peacock, Orchid, Tangerine, Punch and Royal, the shadows’ high-grade silicon waxes also provide long-lasting wear, even without an eye primer. www.ardencyinn.com

Ardency Inn

Restorsea

Pigments with a Punch

Prep and Soothe

AmazingCosmetics created its new Line Smoother + Primer with Neodermyl to ready skin for makeup application and address signs of aging. Using a roller ball applicator to provide a cooling, massaging sensation, the product works to hydrate and firm skin, as well as to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and prep skin for makeup application. The formula contains peptides, ceramides, hyaluronic acid and botanical ingredients, as well as the aforementioned Neodermyl, which works as a collagen and elastin filler. Available at Sephora, Ulta and www.amazingcosmetics.com.

Pore Shrink

L’Oréal Paris introduced Youth Code Pore Vanisher, a skin care product that aims to shrink pore size both instantly and over time. The daily moisturizer takes a breakthrough approach to fighting pores by targeting them on three dimensions. For the surface of the pore, light powders give skin a soft-focus finish, while around the pore targeted LHA microexfoliates to smooth skin’s surface and Perlite absorbs excess oil. Meanwhile, within the pore, Perline-P strengthens and tightens the skin to shrink the appearance of pore size over time. Available at mass retailers. www.lorealparis.com

L’Oréal Paris

Color and Texture

12 Street Level GCI October 2014

News about the Fragrance industry

NEWS

Modern Luxury

As part of a campaign seeking “The Ultimate Men’s Health Guy,” men’s fitness magazine Men’s Health partnered with Mankind, the new fragrance from Kenneth Cole. The winner from the search will be featured on Men’s Health’s November 2014 cover. Alford & Hoff

Join the Club

Defining Masculinity

Modern and Fresh

Estée Lauder

A Modern Muse

Estée Lauder introduced Modern Muse Chic, a fragrance designed to be the bold, daring, more creative side of the Modern Muse scent. The fragrance, a woody floral, features notes of jasmine samba, tuberose, fir and and stargazer lilies accented with plum and davana, as well as cashmere woods, agarwood labdanum, an intense patchouli blend, suede musk and Madagascar vanilla. www.esteelauder.com

French Fairytale

Chloé launched a new fragrance called Love Story, fronted by French actress Clémence Poésy. Inspired by a Parisian romance, Love Story contains notes of neroli, orange blossom and stephanotis. www.chloe.com

www.GCImagazine.com

Inglot developed its Freedom System line of five floral and fruity cream perfumes, with scents that include: Green Fruits, with notes of coconut, plum, lotus, heliotrope, orchid, cedar wood, amber and vanilla; Purple Musk, with notes of bergamot, ivy, clary sage, orris, jasmine, rose, cinnamon, musk and tonka bean; Mandarin Crush, with elements of clementine, pomelo, apple, magnolia, peach flower, jasmine, musk, blonde woods and ambrette; Bright Amber, with notes of citrus, bergamot, mandarin, freesia, jasmine, vanilla flower, amber and cinnamon; and Golden Wood, with notes of apricot, orange, sugared berries, orange blossom, osmanthus, peony, honey, woods and tonka bean. www.inglotcosmetics.com

Aromatic and Dark

Tara Reid

Sharknado-Inspired Perfume

Actress Tara Reid debuted a Sharknadoinspired fragrance called Shark by Tara. The scent is a light and refreshing perfume, with top notes featuring iced mint, violet and lemon, mid notes of jasmine, tuberose and muguet, and a drydown of cool blue rose, amber and musk. www.tarareid.com

Jimmy Choo, in association with Inter Parfums, released a new fragrance, Man, that aims to capture the spirit of the Jimmy Choo man. The fragrance features notes of lavender blended with mandarin, geranium and pineapple leaf. The scent also closes on patchouli to add a touch of sophistication, and the dark grey smoked bottle, inspired by an antique hip flask, is innately masculine with strong and clean lines. www.interparfums.com

Jimmy Choo, Inter Parfums

Mercedes-Benz

The new Mercedes-Benz Club Eau De Toilette is a young, masculine fragrance that orchestrates a subtle contrast between elegance and energy, with the deep, sensual base stimulated by fresh, slightly acidic hesperidia notes. The hesperidia notes are blended with the green freshness of rhubarb while also being contrasted with spicy juniper berries and cardamom. Patchouli and dry woods, mingled with tonka beans and ambrox, create the drydown.

Bell Flavors & Fragrances announced the completion of its newly designed international website. All the sites, including Spanish, Portuguese, French and Mandarin, can be accessed from the U.S. site, www.bellff.com, or through their individual web addresses.

Inglot

Alford & Hoff Eau de Toilette, created by Givaudan perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, is a new, modern scent for men containing aromatic citrus and herbs. The fragrance includes notes of sweet rum, vanilla, tonka bean and molten amber poured over weathered leather and soft suede, providing a unique combination of accords to please the senses. Alford & Hoff Eau de Toilette is available at select Nordstroms, www.nordstrom.com and www.alfordandhoff.com.

Bellegance Perfumes’ fragrance Midnight Promise is a celebration of resourcefulness, resilience, strength and sophistication for women. The top notes include red mandarin and tangy cinnamon with red Moroccan rose while the base notes include vanilla, amber, incense, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood and musk. The fragrance is available at www.belleganceperfumes.com.

Bellegance Perfumes

FRAGRANCE FOCUS

Fragrance Focus 13

ADDED

VALUE

event recap

Cosmoprof NA Welcomed Nearly 27,000 Attendees Cosmoprof North America (CPNA) posted record numbers in 2014, in both terms of attendees and participating exhibitors. The event, which was held at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas from July 13–15, 2014, featured a sold-out show floor: 217,195 square feet with 946 exhibiting companies and just under 27,000 attendees, a 4% increase over the previous year. According to event organizers, CPNA continues to further solidify its position in the U.S. marketplace as a premiere international beauty destination, featuring an array of importers, distributors, manufacturers and global beauty leaders. The 2014 event delivered a strong international presence with exhibitors from 39 countries, 10 official country pavilions (Brazil, China, Italy, South Korea, Pakistan, Poland, South Africa, Spain, Taiwan and Turkey) and a contingency of foreign buyers from 25 different countries. There were 354 international exhibitors, representing a total of 40 countries.

Putting Brands and Buyers Together The International Buyer Program served as a liaison between international buyers and exhibiting companies. The delegation of qualified international buyers met one-on-one with exhibitors with matching profiles. In all, there were 297 meetings with 165 exhibiting companies over the course of the three-day event. Discover Beauty, another exclusive initiative of CPNA, assists emerging brands in finding the appropriate retail market while highlighting new trends. The brands housed in this curated section enjoyed one-on-one meetings with prominent retailers such as Amazon, Beauty Bar, Beauty Habit, C.O. Bigelow’s, Dermstore, HauteLook, HSN, Nordstrom Rack, The Beauty Box, Urban Outfitters and Walgreens/Look Boutique, These retailers provided Discover Beauty brands with feedback and connections with key decision-making buyers. All 20 brands enrolled in this program were competing for the prestigious Discover Beauty Award. With voting done by specialty retailers and editors from top beauty sites, these brands were judged on creativity, innovation and market readiness. The 2014 Discover Beauty Award winner was Karora Cosmetics from Ireland, which was announced at the Discover Beauty party at MIX inside THEhotel. CPNA also brought back Spotlights for a third year as part of the Discover Beauty program. This exhibit space featured small artisan labels that are, as identified by show organizers, a prime fit for high-end retail stores, boutiques, salons and spas. In all, 20 brands in the program showcased their products inside a clean, high-end environment for retail buyers. CPNA also again hosted a live TV Shopping Audition. Key merchants from QVC, HSN and Shop HQ hosted a live OpenSee to meet with exhibiting companies. The live presentations

Cosmoprof North America 2014 welcomed nearly 27,000 attendees, and the 217,195-square foot show floor featured 946 exhibiting companies.

Beauty brands participating in the 2014 Discover Beauty pavilion include Ayres Beauty, Balanced Guru, Bernadette Thompson Nail Lacquer Collection, Briogeo, Chiara Cosmetics, Coastal Salt & Soul, Daily Concepts, Doll Face Beauty, Dr. Lili Fan, Drunk Elephant, Glycelene, Ila Spa, Indie Lee, Jabu’she, Karora Cosmetics, LightStim, Londontown, Manna Kadar Cosmetics, Manuka Doctor, MD Solar Sciences, Me! Bath, Monteil, Qiriness, Salon in a Bottle, Sciote Skin, Simple Sugars, Skin Nutrition, Skin&Co Roma, SoCozy, Spongelle, Thymes and True Isaac Mizrahi.

14 Added Value GCI October 2014

event recap were open to all pre-registered CPNA exhibitors. Beauty executives from these shopping networks looked for innovative and authentic product concepts with the ability to connect with their millions of viewers. For 2014, CPNA also brought back the successful sampling concept, Boutique. This sampling bar allowed attendees to select deluxe-sized samples, including the latest in up-andcoming cosmetics, skin care, nails, hair and some classic beauty favorites. Once at the sampling bar, attendees could hand-pick seven deluxe samples from 20 featured exhibiting brands in exchange for a small charitable donation that will benefit City of Hope. Donations collected exceeded last year’s amounts with slightly over $13,300 raised as a result of this onsite initiative.

Conferences and Trend Spotting

Boutique allowed attendees to select deluxe-sized samples, including the latest in up-and-coming cosmetics, skin care, nails and hair—along with some classic beauty favorites.

www.GCImagazine.com

Special education seminars moderated by leading industry associations, WWD, CEW, Beauty Store Business and GCI editor in chief Jeff Falk were well received. The GCI session, “Storytelling: Tell Me a Story, Sell Me Your Brand,” explored how to best tell a brand’s story through creative marketing techniques like design elements, features of the products and in-store presentation displays. David Altman, CEO of MarketShare Advisors International; Alisa Marie Beyer,

Added Value 15

ADDED

VALUE

event recap

founder of The Beauty Company and Coastal Salt & Soul; Colleen Celentano, director of human resources for the professional products division of L’Oréal USA and FIT Capstone project team leader; and Kevin Marshall, creative director of design for global packaging at Microsoft; comprised the expert panel. To stay at the forefront of these groundbreaking trends, CPNA show organizers brought in trend-spotting experts from five large and unique beauty video blogs (vlogs)—Beauty Frosting, Diamonds And Heels 14, The Fabulous File, Glam Life Guru and Mixed Makeup, with a total reach of 4+ million consumers. They participated in this year’s Beaut-E Zone where they met with exhibitors and attendees. CPNA also unveiled its first-ever Interactive Experience Area located on the show floor. The area consisted of the “experience” and the “interactive technology” sections, which allowed attendees the opportunity to play and experience unique concepts. The experience section, housed inside a container, was hosted by Pearlfisher. The presentation highlighted key areas of macro cultural change that are shaping the future of beauty, health and wellness and aimed to help visitors understand what these changes mean for their brands and consumers. The interactive technology section was a digital playground hosted by The New Agency. Included in this Digital Discovery Tool Booth were three pods showcasing technology from Bamboo, SpringBox and Strike Social; principals from these three platforms were on hand to provide answers to specific questions attendees had. This area gave brand marketers the opportunity to use various analysis tools that allow them to see the state of their online and YouTube presence more clearly, as well as gain insights on turning their current consumers into brand ambassadors through games and rewards. The inaugural program allowed attendees to immerse themselves in the big picture of the digital landscape and explore tools to enhance their business.

Pearlfisher explored the future of beauty, health and wellness through an inspiring and interactive multimedia exhibition in the Interactive Experience Area.

Cosmoprof North America 2015 will be held July 12–14, 2015, at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas.

16 Added Value GCI October 2014

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Case Study: Social Community Online

A case study of Laura Geller Beauty’s collaboration with social community and commerce company Blucarat. By Kieran Taylor

Embedding social interactions directly on a retail website makes the most sense so purchase affirmations could be acted on instantly.

he word ‘cosmetics’ finds its origin in the greek kosmētikos, which literally translates to “skilled in ordering or arranging.” If you have ever witnessed how a thoughtful makeover delivers a dramatic transformation, you know the root definition of being “skilled” is apropos. While the sharing of skilled beauty techniques is a millennia-old communal tradition, it is now a tradition experiencing a makeover of its own. New combinations of online retail and social media are redefining collaboration in beauty and cosmetics. And one brand that is wholeheartedly embracing this social commerce trend—and is reaping rewards for it—is Laura Geller Beauty. Even before the Internet’s advent, Laura Geller Beauty recognized the central role community has within the consumer beauty and cosmetics industry. Company founder Laura Geller was a renowned makeup artist on Broadway for years before opening a makeup studio in 1993 on the Upper East Side of Manhattan. By 2002, the growing fan base enabled the eponymous beauty brand to launch sales on QVC. Shopping via television provided a novel way to share beauty secrets that used to require a trip to a local studio or direct access to a makeup artist.

This approach was no coincidence. As founder, Laura Geller consistently maintained that beauty should be more welcoming and accessible to all women. The combination of that philosophy and the broad reach of QVC helped organically grow a group of brand fans called “Geller Girls.” The cornerstone of this community centers on the open sharing of beauty techniques that are amazingly specialized according to complexion, age, ethnicity and other factors. This emphasis on sharing best practices has proved important, as it was the catalyst that ultimately led Laura Geller Beauty to explore more innovative approaches to online sales.

Online Collaboration Challenges The evolution of e-commerce for the Laura Geller Beauty brand mirrors the experience of many current beauty retail efforts. When the online team established its first fully transactional commerce site in 2008, it was state-of-the-art for the time, but still couldn’t facilitate the social interactions consumers loved in their local shops or studios. Like all sites then (and even most today), the site focused on providing a rich catalog of product images and descriptions

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Case Study: Social Community Online coupled with necessary commerce and order fulfillment functions. Given the nature of commerce technology at the time, the shopping experience was solitary and couldn’t fully harness the rich knowledge within the Geller Girl community. Years later, the arrival of social media provided a new option for social collaboration for those consumers willing to chat about beauty needs in an open setting. This led Laura Geller Beauty’s online team to conduct in-depth discussions of how these new “off-site but online” channels might be best leveraged to recreate the social interactions found in stores. The conclusion, now realized by most retailers, was that social media was a great platform to build awareness—but that, not surprisingly, didn’t translate into discernible sales. It’s culturally awkward to promote and sell in an environment purposely designed for relaxed socialization (just imagine having an insurance salesman at your next cocktail party). Indeed, surveys have since proven out the team’s early thinking. Just 2% of Facebook’s 1.5 billion users have ever made a purchase for any retailer through the social network. The arrival of Twitter, YouTube, Instagram and other social channels (following Facebook) didn’t provide the online team the means to support the needs of the Geller Girl community either. In fact, an only wider range of collaboration options for consumers seemed confusing. In addition, being so removed from the online catalog showed coupling beauty tips and the correct shade or product variant with any accuracy was very difficult.

The Beauty of Social Shopping During a site redesign project in 2012, the Laura Geller Beauty team set out to develop a new approach to online sales that relied on a few guiding principles. The team knew one of a woman’s most valued beauty resources is her friends and peer group. And with an ever-growing array of options for off-site social interactions, Laura Geller Beauty wanted to provide its consumers with a centralized approach to social, one that better leveraged the power of community. Embedding social interactions directly in the site made the most sense so purchase affirmations could be acted on instantly, but that wasn’t conventional wisdom at the time.

Most beauty brands and retailers were using Facebook commerce apps to create satellite versions of their stores off-site, or they were attempting to sell within Pinterest, Twitter or other networks. It was during this time that the Laura Geller Beauty team connected with social e-commerce start-up Blucarat, which espoused just the opposite approach. Rather than forcing shopping into the growing number of social channels, the beauty brand could host social interactions directly within its own retail site. Blucarat’s cloud-based solution was a simple implementation—activated by embedding JavaScript into web pages in the same way Google Analytics or other websitemonitoring solutions work. With the Blucarat code in place, all visitors to the site were presented with an opt-in social bar that appeared as a navigational aid at the base of the site so it didn’t overlap with the site functions. Working with Blucarat, the Laura Geller Beauty team stylized the social bar to match brand guidelines and overall site design, eventually promoting it as the “Laura Geller Beauty Bar.” This early version of the software quickly created a shopping community that was ideal for the loyal Laura Geller Beauty fanbase. Shoppers logged into the social bar using Facebook authentication, but because all interactions remained within the Laura Geller Beauty site itself, it offered a more private and intimate setting than any large social network. In essence, the Blucarat software created a forum where shoppers could pose questions or comments to brand-designated experts, selected friends or for all shoppers to respond to. At the same time, shoppers had a new way to

browse products by seeing which were most viewed, purchased or commented on. To ensure community advice connected to the correct corresponding products, every question, comment and post was automatically infused with a thumbnail link to the corresponding product detail page. Using this approach and storing the interactions meant the cumulative knowledge of the Laura Geller Beauty shopping community was always on tap for future shoppers. In the year Laura Geller Beauty used the initial version of Blucarat on its site, the community feedback and consumer engagement metrics demonstrated the Laura Geller Beauty online team’s initial design principles were correct. Shoppers that used the Beauty Bar spent 150% more time on the site (over 10 minutes per session) compared to those that didn’t interact socially (four minutes). Similarly, the number of product pages viewed by visitors increased by 50%. The increased time spent on site along with more product views also helped increase revenue. Additionally, shoppers that used the Beauty Bar had twice the conversion rate when compared to those that didn’t. And in those initial months, thousands of consumers registered to use the Beauty Bar, generating thousands of questions, comments and responses that has created a rich repository of information for future shoppers.

Cosmetic Collaboration Goes Visual A year following its Beauty Bar launch on www.laurageller.com, the Blucarat team

The social interaction bar, developed by Blucarat, at the bottom of the page allows social shopping right on the Laura Geller Beauty website.

20 Case Study: Social Community Online GCI October 2014

further enhanced its software to provide Laura Geller Beauty with new options for social interaction. Where the initial version focused on creating a forum that instigated discussions directly on the site, the newer version built upon this foundation by adding the ability to ingest content from various off-site social channels. This change meant the thousands of pictures, videos and comments scattered across Instagram, YouTube, Twitter and other networks could now be integrated into the shopping experience. Shoppers enjoyed the same forum-based discussions Blucarat featured in the debut version along with the added “social discovery” function. Products were now accompanied with a list of social influencers: how many times they had been viewed, which Facebook friends liked the product, social comments about the item, and even fan photos contributed to Instagram or other networks. That introduction of fan-based pictures and video was arguably the best aspect of the new approach. Knowing the value of cosmetics and beauty techniques are based on the appearances they enable, Blucarat devised a way to showcase real customer pictures that were accurately linked to the corresponding products that made the looks possible. Using new image galleries coupled with established forum-based discussions, consumers could now share real-world pictures revealing how specific product combinations worked for their unique beauty looks and situations. In the first month of deployment for the updated Beauty Bar, the teams saw good engagement metrics. Average time on site for Beauty Bar users increased to over 13 minutes (in comparison, Nielsen estimates the average time spent on a webpage is approximately one minute). Socially engaged users viewed twice the number of pages than those not using social features, and, once again, conversion rates for those using the social bar were double that of those not socially engaged.

Evolved Consumer Engagements Newly appointed Laura Geller Beauty CEO Elana Drell-Szyfer appreciates what the combination of a loyal fanbase and new technologies can mean for the beauty brand. “The company has always been dedicated to creating makeup that is inviting and easy to use for real women,” she says. “We can now expand our vision through technological innovations unimaginable when this company was founded. Our consumers can connect directly with us and with each other in a way that reflects our brand’s open spirit.” That interaction delivers more frequent and meaningful consumer engagements, and it also has an additional benefit of serving as a listening platform. Increased social interaction on the Laura Geller Beauty site provides both quantitative analytics about shopping behavior along with a qualitative sense of shopper sentiment. “The new Blucarat partnership means we have near immediate feedback regarding our products,” says Drell-Szyfer. “Our site isn’t merely an online store—it’s become a worldwide focus group that delivers fantastic insight into what works best for our consumers. It’s exciting stuff.” n GCI

Kieran Taylor is chief marketing officer at New York-based Blucarat, an emerging developer of social commerce software. He has worked in high-tech marketing for nearly 20 years at companies including Adobe, Akamai, Compuware, DataPower/IBM and as a journalist at McGraw-Hill.

www.GCImagazine.com

Case Study: Social Community Online 21

Nail Care, CoNsumer TreNds

IMPACT POINTS n

Nail polish has skyrocketed to a greater importance in the beauty industry in recent years (with sales of $1 billion in 2012), and part of that rise in popularity is its universal appeal.

Many beauty consumers find nail polish to be an affordable luxury, often switching colors and trying new brands. And though they sometimes seek professional nail procedures, DIY is still huge in nails.

Color seems to be the biggest concern in a consumer’s desire for a certain polish product, as many aren’t yet looking at other ingredients.

Loyalty isn’t yet a big trend in nail care, as many women own colors from multiple brands and can own more than 30 bottles of nail polish at once.

Nail Care, Consumer Trends

An inside look at the 2014 PinkReport, “Nailed: The Allure of Color.” By Denise HericH

alking the exhibit floor at Cosmoprof North America this year, I was struck by the enormity of nail polish offerings. It seemed every other exhibitor had vast racks of colorful, shimmering, glittery bottles on display. Lacquers and mattes, textures, gels… the styles, colors, treatments and tools were endless. Women cannot get enough of nail polish, evidenced by 2012 U.S. nail polish sales of $768 million, a 32% gain from the previous year, according to WWD. No matter consumers’ age or socioeconomic situation, when it comes to the nail care segment of beauty, nail polish is the great equalizer. Women from all walks of life share very similar outlooks, views, hopes, dreams and wishes from their nail polish brands, and they also share a very similar view of nail polish—it’s fun!

Whether she is looking for her favorite tried-and-true brand or something completely new, these consumers are engaged with their options, and, unlike some other categories in beauty (skin care or fragrance), relatively few women feel over- (or under-) whelmed with the choices available to them, with new brands entering the arena all the time. And this insatiable appetite for nail polish is great news for beauty brands. To get down to what is really driving the nail polish consumer, in TBC’s 2014 PinkReport “Nailed: The Allure of Nail Color,” we took a deep dive into the key areas of inquiry about today’s nail color consumer. We surveyed more than 3,000 women and unveiled her thoughts on nail polish brands, her nail color behaviors and her nail color motivations. We discovered who is she, why she loves nail color, and how you can make her loyal to your brand and its products.

GCI October 2014

According to Anita Jennison, vice president of marketing and new business development for Pixi by Petra, “We recently launched our fall collection with two new fall nail colors, Olive Gold—luminous olive with golden shimmer— and Imperial Blue—rich deep navy. Inspired by the beautiful anthracite skylines of the fall [and] incorporating luxe, metallic undertones, these shades look [good] together or accented with silver and gold.”

Regarding Orly’s nail lacquer colors—with Orange Punch, It’s Up to Blue, Haute Red and Oh Cabana Boy shown here—Carina Breda, senior vice president of marketing for Orly International, says, “Orly makes a big investment in trend resourcing to be on the pulse of what our customer will be asking for in the future. We work approximately 18 months in advance, and look at not only color trends but the social and cultural catalyst behind the trends. All our product development is done in a collaborative environment, and the names are chosen to enhance the color and trend.”

The Universal Appeal of Nail Polish So, what makes the nail polish consumer so exciting? Plenty. This consumer is every woman, and also most young girls. She’s the business woman who is happy with her weekly French manicure, and she’s the high school senior obsessed with mimicking every nail design she sees on Pinterest. She’s the mom with four kids and the grad school student, the tomboy and the girly-girl. In short, today’s nail polish consumers transcend boundaries and defy classification because all women enjoy the elements of fun, ease and experimentation that wearing nail polish offers in an affordable way. Here are some key highlights of what TBC learned in its 2014 PinkReport products segment: www.GCImagazine.com

Nail Care, Consumer Trends 23

Nail Care, Consumer Trends Nail polish rules! • Consumers love their mani/pedis. More than 50% of all nail polish users at every age agree strongly that a great manicure is important, as well as that a new nail polish is a fun pick-me-up. • Younger women are more likely to feel “off ” if their nails aren’t polished, and they admit that buying a new nail polish makes them feel excited and happy. • Only a minimal percentage of consumers agree overall that they purchase the same color of nail polish over and over. In other words, bring on the selection, baby. She wants more options. • The younger she is, the more she enjoys shopping for new nail polish. Sixty percent of 16–19-year-olds strongly agree this activity is fun versus just 36% of 55–69-year-olds. But don’t be fooled—all women enjoy shopping for nail products to some degree. • Although she believes a manicure is the final detail to a great outfit, only a little more than a third of all consumers strongly agree that a manicure is a worthwhile expense, indicating that affordability and price are still key considerations across the board. • Unless it’s a special color or she can’t find the shade any longer, she probably won’t go to the trouble of trying to save her old polishes when they start to dry out; she’d rather just go and buy a new one.

Budgetary concerns and nail polish • Women aged 30–39 are most likely to agree strongly that they never worry about the money they spend on their manicures and pedicures. However, this percentage is small (15% and 17%, respectively). Cost and expense will continue to be key in engaging this consumer, particularly in the salon. • Who feels most guilty about buying new nail polish when she still has unfinished bottles hanging around? Sixteen to 24-year-olds were statistically more likely to strongly agree they feel guilty for doing this than any other age bracket. • This age group also is more likely to have a budget in mind when shopping for new nail polish. They also are more

likely to believe expensive nail polish might not be the best investment: 26% of consumers aged 16–19 believe strongly expensive nail polish is a waste of money versus just 8% of 40–49-year-olds.

All nail products, all the time • The majority of nail polish consumers own more than thirty bottles of nail polish. • Even with a well-established presence in the nail polish landscape and a host of up-and-coming new brands, she still identifies OPI (72%) and Essie (40%) as “hot” brands. Other hot brands on her radar (even though she’s not using them) include: Butter London (24%); China Glaze (23%); Sephora by OPI (22%); and Zoya (21%).

The love of color • From classics to contemporaries, she likes her color. Classics are keepers. If she could only wear one nail polish color for the rest of her life, pink is far and away the preferred color (41%), followed by red (19%) and purple (9%). • She also identifies herself as more of a classicist. Seventy-three percent indicate they would choose to wear traditional colors (pink, red, beige) versus modern shades of blue, green or yellow. However, this split skews sharply by age. As expected, younger consumers are much more likely to choose the blue and green polish colors over the mature consumer, who prefers her light beige and soft pink hues.

Nailed: Her Behaviors For this highly connected and engaged beauty consumer, her beauty behaviors are central to her daily routine and lifestyle. She enjoys the benefit that using makeup and beauty products brings to her life, and her daily choices reflect this commitment. Not one to shy away from trying something new, she’s also not one to be swayed to a new product simply because it’s the latest fad. Instead, she wants her nail products to work reliably, be fun, safe and affordable, and to give her options. To find their favorite nail colors and brands, women are browsing the nail aisle

at three main retail outlets: drugstores (CVS, Walgreens); superstores (Walmart), and beauty specialty stores (Sephora, Ulta). And when it comes to her manicure, women are still very much in the DIY camp. Fifty-six percent typically polish their fingernails at home while only 7% typically go to a salon. In fact, the highest percentage of women (25%) report they get a professional, insalon manicure only for special occasions, with just 12% going monthly for a manicure refresh. And forget expensive professional manicures as a regular thing. The majority of women (80%) won’t pay over $50 for a professional nail polish experience. Here are some key highlights of what TBC learned in the behaviors segment:

Give Her Choices • Only 22% of nail polish consumers want their nail polish and toenail polish to always match. The vast majority (60%) only wants them to sometimes match, and 13% don’t want them to match at all. • Both more traditional nail polish finishes (cream, pearl) as well as more modern finishes (glitter, matte, textured) are appealing to consumers. Twenty to 34-year-olds are more likely to prefer a gloss finish, while shimmery shades speak to 16–24-year-olds. • Even if she’s got a backlog of unfinished bottles of nail color in her medicine chest, she’s not likely to finish a full bottle of color—and she’s OK with that. Forty-seven percent say they sometimes use up an entire bottle of nail polish— and only if the color is amazing—while 41% say they never use up all of the polish.

Chemicals are a concern, but not a dealbreaker • She’s concerned about the ingredients in her nail polish, but not detrimentally so. Less than half of all consumers (45%) are concerned about harmful toxins in their products, and 36% have never thought about it. • She’s not seeking out “safe” nail products—yet. Fifty-six percent are not seeking out toxin-free polishes; however, 30% do purposefully purchase non-toxic nail products, as awareness is growing.

24 Nail Care, Consumer Trends GCI October 2014

• Natural and organic is not a key driver for nail polish purchase or usage, and only 12% of consumers strongly agree they look for nail and foot care products that are natural or organic.

Her loyalty isn’t absolute, even if she loves you • Ninety-two percent of nail polish consumers agree toenail polish lasts longer than fingernail polish, however; she’s far more likely to change her fingernail color on a weekly basis. • Fortunately, she’s excited to have a lot of nail color options and choices. Unfortunately, that means she’s also not very loyal, and on average, half of all consumers aged 16–54 agree strongly that they like to try new nail polish brands. • However, this doesn’t mean she thinks all brands are the same. Only 6% or less of all consumers agree strongly that one nail polish brand is just about the same as another.

I know what I like, but I’m not sure I want to be the artist • She may love to try new colors and will be quite all right with having multiple unfinished bottles of color lying about, but the older she gets, the less interested she is in trying to create her own “custom” color. Seventy-five percent of women aged 35–49 have never mixed two colors together to create a new shade. • Younger nail polish consumers are more likely to experiment with color. Forty-three percent of 16–19-year-olds will go ahead and turn their nail polish ritual into a chance to pretend they are Van Gogh by mixing shades together.

Where she’s shopping • Keep it accessible. She’s seeking out her next favorite nail color or product at Walmart, Target, Sephora or Ulta. • Although younger consumers are more likely to turn to the Internet to purchase nail products and colors, online channels are just not yet a major purchasing pathway for this consumer.

The Full Report The full 2014 PinkReport dives into a sea of detail about her usage and buying habits, as well as trends she’s following, and it uncovers which particular brands she loves most and why. Complete data tables and top 10 insight sections also are included. You can visit benchmarkingcompany.com/pink-reports/ for more information on TBC’s 2014 PinkReport “Nailed: The Allure of Nail Color,” and look for an all-new 2015 PinkReport early next year. n GCI

Denise Herich is co-founder and managing partner at The Benchmarking Company, a bi-coastal consumer research firm borne from Alisa Beyer’s The Beauty Company. The Benchmarking Company provides marketing and strategy professionals in the beauty and personal care industries with forward-thinking, need-to-know information about its customers and prospects through consumer research studies and beauty product testing.

www.GCImagazine.com

Nail Care, Consumer Trends 25

MARKET REPORT: SKIN CARE

ReveRsing IMPACT POINTS n

Asia-Pacific, traditionally one of the lowest spending regions in beauty, accounts for over half of skin care’s revenue.

While trends tend to originate in the West and migrate East in other beauty categories, the East’s strong influence on skin care has made it the source of three global skin care trends that are reshaping the market.

Skin care moving to the forefront of fashion brands’ expansion plans, the proliferation of whitening products across categories, and Chinese and Korean brands shaking up the competitive field are the trends reshaping the market.

While whitening ingredients are now included in a variety of facial skin care products, from acne treatments and face masks to toners, this functionality continues to be strongest in facial moisturizers, accounting for over half of global whitening value sales in 2013.

The popularity of whitening products is filtering down into other categories, with whitening body care products, hand creams, deodorants and even sun care offerings hitting the shelves.

Market Report: Skin Care

Future global growth in skin care is expected to be driven by consumer preferences in Asia-Pacific.

ith global per capita spending of $15 on skin care in 2013, compared to $11 on hair care and just $7 spent on color cosmetics (on average), skin care remains the category that consumers are most willing to spend on. And Asia-Pacific, traditionally one of the lowest spending regions in beauty, accounts for over half of skin care’s revenue. While trends tend to originate in the West and migrate East in other beauty categories, in skin care, the East’s strong influence on skin care has made it the source of three global skin care trends that are reshaping the market.

Skin Care Becomes Fashionable With one third of global apparel sales in 2018 expected to come from Asia-Pacific, the region has been at the forefront of fashion brands’ expansion strategies. As the region’s predisposition to skin care remains unchallengeable, increasingly more luxury fashion brands are looking to skin care to grow—in both the region as well as in the global beauty industry as a whole. As a result, many fashion brands are moving into skin care or upping their investment in the category. For example, in 2013, following the success of its fragrance lines, Chloé bypassed color

cosmetics and launched a skin care line sold exclusively in Asia-Pacific. In summer 2014 following the revival of its fashion line, Kenzo launched a skin care line based on three Asian plants. In addition, both Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent have upped their investment in skin care, with the former launching targeted treatments (notably the Le Jour, La Nuit and Le Weekend products) and the latter developing Or Rouge, an antiager that uses saffron from Morocco and a glycan technology to reduce the signs of aging. Showcasing the importance of AsiaPacific, Chanel introduced its Chanel Le Blanc series in the region before bringing it to the West. The product line is believed to have been a huge success, achieving double-digit growth over the past year. Similarly, Burberry, which is expected to increase its presence to 100 stores in China alone over the next five years, has announced its plans to launch a skin care line. With such a strong focus on AsiaPacific and following the success of its fragrance and color cosmetic lines, skin care will be the next step in Burberry’s attempt to become a lifestyle brand. An initial launch of the skin care line in AsiaPacific would make strategic sense. And while no fashion brand is currently among the top 10 premium skin care brands, Christian Dior and Chanel sat in 14th and 15th places respectively in 2013, showcasing the high potential for fashion brands in skin care globally.

GCI October 2014

Westernization By Nicole Tyrimou, Euromonitor International

White—The Color of the Season in Skin Care The success of Chanel’s Le Blanc series can be attributed to the ongoing high demand for whitening/lightening products in Asia-Pacific—and the demand has filtered down into other regions, including Latin America, the Middle East and Africa. Fair & Lovely, Unilever’s whitening speciality brand, is the third largest brand of mass facial moisturizers in Saudi Arabia in terms of market share (18% share of value sales in 2013). Furthermore, in Mexico, over one third of facial moisturizers sold in 2013 featured lightening ingredients. While whitening ingredients are now included in a variety of facial skin care products, from acne treatments and face masks to toners, this functionality continues to be strongest in facial moisturizers, accounting for over half of global whitening value sales in 2013 (consumers looking for a lighter complexion often prefer a cream or serum treatment). Dark spots, uneven skin tone and sun damage are expected to continue to dominate Asian consumers’ skin concerns, and those concerns are gaining momentum in Western Europe and North America. As a result, a variety of international brands that first made inroads with whitening skin care lines for Asian consumers are now launching them globally— Blanc de la Mer and Diorsnow, as examples. The popularity of these products www.GCImagazine.com

has led to whitening claims and properties filtering down into other categories—with whitening body care products, hand creams, deodorants and even sun care hitting the shelves. In fact, the boost seen in after-sun care in Asia-Pacific 2008–2013 (with a CAGR increase of 10% at constant 2013 prices) can be partly attributed to whitening after-sun treatments. Beyond Asia-Pacific, in Brazil, Unilever has launched Dove Dermo Aclarant Deodorant, which lightens and moisturizes the skin.

Asian Players Shake Up the Competitive Field Asia-Pacific’s influence in skin care is most strongly felt than in terms of innovation. While Western culture and fashion have had a strong impact on the region, in beauty, big internationals are getting squeezed by local and regional players—with both Revlon and Garnier leaving China in 2014. Traditional Chinese medicine brands like Inoherb and Herborist, skin care products using natural herbs, are increasingly appealing to consumers of all ages. Herborist is the flagship brand of Shanghai Jahwa United Co Ltd, and it has been expanding globally. The brand sells through Sephora stores in selected European markets and through Douglas in Germany. Herborist also expanded to offer a higher-priced, anti-aging line during 2013, increasing its product portfolio

and price point range from RNB100-400 on average to RNB980. Furthermore, in China, Inoherb’s value sales have grown by 46% since 2008 and Herborist’s by 38%, compared to Olay’s 4% and L’Oréal’s 19% gains over the same period. Furthermore, the South Korean wave, which has been boosted through the popularity of its celebrities across AsiaPacific and globally through its pop culture, has helped South Korean brands expand beyond their home market. Both Amore Pacific and LG Household & Health Care Ltd have been gaining ground globally, with revenues reaching $1.8 billion and $1.3 billion respectively in 2013, more than double their 2008 revenues. The companies position their brands in both the premium and mass segments, and are particularly popular among young consumers, where aspiration to follow Korean culture is strongest. Many of their brands are now available through drugstores in the U.S., with expansion expected to continue through to Europe. With Asia-Pacific being at the forefront of all types of skin care innovation, whether in terms of application (air cushions), category (segmentation in face masks) or formulation (fermented ingredients), future growth in the skin care category, even in Western markets, is expected to be driven by consumer preferences in this region. n GCI

Nicole Tyrimou is a Euromonitor International beauty and personal care analyst. nicole.tyrimou@euromonitor.com. Market Report: Skin Care 27

IngredIent effIcacy

The science behind proving beauty products work.

BY SARA MASON

IMPACT POINTS n

Claims remain one of the primary ways brands are grabbing the attention of consumers, and claims must be substantiated.

Many beauty ingredient suppliers are conducting and developing more sophisticated tests to demonstrate the efficacy of ingredients and sharing that data with brands to help encourage consumers to buy.

Efficacy tests can be helpful in product development, revealing how much of an ingredient is necessary to show tangible results for users, as well as potential ingredient substitutions.

Ingredient Efficacy

s beauty brands race to put the latest and greatest products on the shelves in a market saturated with new innovations, consumer product testing and procedures for implementing claims substantiation protocols are topics of increasing interest. And as brands work to best competitors and differentiate their products in one way or another, supporting new ingredient claims with efficacy data is increasingly important, particularly as consumers become more educated and aware of the types of ingredients used in beauty products. “Consumers are now developing their own expectations and demands for specific claims,” says Kristen Presti, marketing manager, face care, BASF. Brands are responding by trying to meet these consumer demands, and trying to connect on a more personal level. Ultimately, the product and formulation development process should assure that the efficacy of an active ingredient is translates to an efficacious product—with suppliers

providing the ingredients that enable brands to formulate for efficacy and helping product development teams understand the testing processes required to legitimize onpack claims.

Imperatives Typically, bioactive ingredients are tested via cell biology, biochemistry and chemistry techniques. In its formulation laboratory, BASF is able to demonstrate both the aesthetics and the bioactive efficacy of its ingredients. The lab uses a combination of test methodologies to evaluate efficacy— typical efficacy tests evaluate antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory activity, and collagen and elastin synthesis. “Once we have confirmed activity via these methods, we then take the bioactives into in vivo test method protocols, which involves sensorial consumer testing or bioinstrumentation,” says Jill Litchauer, senior manager, application technology and technical services for personal care,

GCI October 2014

home care and I&I, BASF. “Our formulation chemists are constantly working with a variety of our materials to optimize synergies and improve efficacy in an end formulation.” It also is imperative to use proper scientific methodology and follow appropriate testing protocols to assure product efficacy. Depending on the mechanism and anticipated end cosmetic benefit, Sederma tests and measures efficacy through a number of in vitro and/ or ex vivo tests, as well as clinical studies. In order to do so, Sederma has, in some cases, created measurement and testing tools. The Aeroflexmeter, created and patented by Sederma to enable visualization of the improvement in skin firmness, associates the contactless deformation of the skin by compressed air and its dynamic measurements by a high-frequency laser line profilometer. It was used to show and confirm the immediate firming effects of the supplier’s Dynalift ingredient, as well as the long-term firming efficacy of its Idealift ingredient, following a clinical study by

www.GCImagazine.com

panelists, according to Denise Gabriele, vice president of sales and marketing, Sederma. “In the end, however, in vivo and consumer perception study results are probably of most value to the consumer,” notes Gabriele. BASF also has adopted some of the latest technologies and uses state-of-theart equipment to demonstrate efficacy and substantiate claims, according to Manasi Chavan, PhD, technical service manager, BASF. BASF’s testing platform starts at the genomic level, where it tests for proof of principle via new pathways and then links those pathways to a consumer-perceivable benefit, which is proven through its clinical testing laboratory. “A powerful way to establish efficacy in skin care is to investigate and understand specific biological pathways, so there is an increase in testing at both the genomic and proteomic level as a proof of principle, and then the efficacy of the product is confirmed through clinical testing,” explains Chavan.

Continuous Improvement Improving results requires both an understanding of the desired end-result and knowing what factors to modify in an ingredient to produce the sought-after effect. “Ingredient modifications coupled with the right screening (in vitro) models can give an indication of which change is the best for cosmetic efficacy, and then it can be further validated through ex vivo and/or in vivo test methods,” says Sonia Dawson, marketing manager, botanicals, Croda Inc. Using benchmarks are key to continual improvement. And it is with this in mind that Evonik Industries employs the practice of comparing its new ingredients against what is readily available in the market as well as against the most advanced emerging ingredient technologies. “We also compare efficacy to what we are already doing, trying to outdo even ourselves,” says Paul Washlock, vice president of personal care North America, Evonik Industries.

Ingredient Efficacy 29

Ingredient Efficacy

Tego Care PBS 6, an oil-in-water emulsifier for low viscous applications, is one of Evonik’s recent launches. Because the key criteria is efficiency, Evonik tested it various formulation types, including in SPF 50, insect repellent and watersoluble sunscreen—all known to be difficult formulations. In addition, the team looked at natural preservation, which introduced a low pH. “All of these give us an understanding of the robustness of the emulsifier,” says Anna Howe, applied technology manager, personal care, Evonik Industries. “And, therefore, [it] gives our customers an idea how they can place our material in their platform.” In the testing of Tego Care PBS 6, Evonik worked to stabilize the lowviscous system, as well as performing sensory testing, including objective in vivo moisturization tests. This demonstrated other actions and benefits of the ingredient. “The emulsifier can enhance sensory attributes while improving stability so customers don’t have to add other ingredients,” Howe explains. “This is very challenging in the marketplace.

Collaboration + Cost Developing beauty product ideas for market as quickly as possible is both a challenge and an economic necessity, but ensuring products offer the maximum benefit for the consumer is equally difficult. “Efficacy can be best delivered cost effectively by combining affordable materials with scientific acumen to create stable formulations that provide the desired end benefit,” notes BASF’s Litchauer. “The best way to achieve these goals is through collaboration,” says Washlock. Evonik goes by the 20-20 rule, which is the efforts are worthwhile if efficacy has improved 20% or if cost can be reduced by 20%. Even with cost reduction, however, efficacy must be on par or better. “If it’s not, it’s not worth the time,” Washlock says.

New Methods As new ingredients are developed, evolving methodologies for evaluating their efficacy are required. Suppliers sometimes must develop test methods for difficult-tomeasure claims, as there are many claims

udies Strong supplier science and st ntly make choosing actives significa easier and provide product ing of developers a clear understand the benefits of using each. for which the industry does not have standardized test methods for efficacy. Croda, for example, has published test methods for hair color vibrancy that others in the industry have adopted, according to Denise Costrini, marketing manager, hair care, Croda Inc. And the scientific data offered by suppliers have become increasingly sophisticated. It’s now quite common to have begun to analyze the upstream effects of their raw materials using in vitro genomic, proteomic and cellular research. “This allows for a complex, yet beautiful narrative to be drafted around how these ingredients function in and on the skin,” says John Stanek, manager of new technologies and purchasing, CoValence. According to the company, CoValence rarely constructs products with a single goal in mind, and instead looks to address a multitude of aging-related issues in each product. Strong supplier science and studies make choosing actives significantly easier and provide product developers a clear understanding of the benefits of using each. “Once a prototype is completed, CoValence takes it upon itself to run a fact-finding study using our in vitro imaging systems to validate the concept,” explains Stanek. For example, the Visia CR imaging system was created to test the activity of finished goods and ingredient technologies. “We feel the proof is in the imaging analysis, not just in digital pictures and ingredient data,” says Stanek. The imaging system protocol provides a detailed

analysis that helps CoValence and its clients quantify data—how many wrinkles or spots are reduced by product use, for example. “Tangible and quantitative data sets brands apart from their competition by giving them a point of difference at their fingertips,” explains Stanek.

On-pack Claims A beauty product only works as efficaciously as the ingredients used. The reputation of the brand, in part, relies on the success of the actives within the products. The bottom line is that brands must formulate the best product possible with ingredients that have been tested diligently and then be honest with the consumer about the results. As the search for individual perfection continues in an age when information is quickly disseminated online, there is a heightened demand for products that clearly say what they do and, more importantly, do what they say. It is imperative for brands to be diligent in understanding the testing process and to provide the evidence that substantiates their product claims. For a glossary of testing terms, tests and devices, see this article online.n GCI

Sara Mason is a freelance writer based in the Chicagoland area. She was previously managing editor of GCI magazine.

30 Ingredient Efficacy GCI October 2014

PACKAGING NING N E P BY

BY AB

Consumers want all they can get of their beauty products, so it is up to beauty brands and packaging suppliers to figure out the best way to deliver.

F IMPACT POINTS n

A study from packaging supplier MWV found 78% of U.S. consumers stated getting all of the product out is extremely or very important with regard to overall product satisfaction. Beauty brands and suppliers are innovating more ways to help consumers use every last bit of a product—including developing new tools, using new materials and revamping standbys such as airless and atmospheric packaging.

Packaging

inding a beauty product that works can be consumer’s dream come true—which means when they can’t get all that product out, it can be a nightmare. Thus, this has been an issue that beauty brands and packaging suppliers have been keen to address. “This has really always been the holy grail of packaging—a package that enables the consumer to get that last drop out,” says Kristy Hooper, beauty and personal care global strategy and marketing manager, MWV.

Consumers Want It All Leaving product behind in a package because they can’t get to it is often high on the list of consumer complaints about beauty products. According to Hooper, “In the ‘Packaging Matters’ study MWV did, our survey found that 78% of all U.S. consumers state that getting all of the product out is extremely or very important with regard to overall product satisfaction. And this is ranked by U.S. consumers as one of the top three most important packaging attributes. The only two [concerns that ranked higher] were keeping the product fresh and effective

and protecting the product from spilling or breaking. So it’s hugely important to consumers.” Adding her thoughts, Virginia Lee, senior analyst, Euromonitor International, notes, “I think when one cannot get every single drop out of [a bottle], it is a source of frustration. People who are paying $30–50 for foundation want those last few drops.” But she also points out the barriers in getting consumers to try other packaging types. “We’re still so ingrained in expecting foundation in bottles,” she says. That means it is on the beauty brands and packaging suppliers to figure out the best ways to offer consumers what they want. “With more money being spent on beauty products, it’s important to satisfy the consumers need for added value. Though products may differ in price, consumers still look for optimum performance from their products, including the packaging,” says Julianna Keklik, marketing manager, NA beauty, Aptar Beauty + Home. Hooper notes, “I think how strongly [consumers] feel about it is very price point driven.” However, she also notes, “Specifically to skin care, I think the consumer experience has become so incredibly important. The overall

GCI October 2014

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PACKAGING experience that you have with a package is really your connection to that brand. And if the experience is a good one, then you have more loyalty to that brand. Whereas if part of that experience is negative—such as feeling like you didn’t get the full value for the package that you bought—then that can have a negative connotation to whether or not you are going to buy it again, whether or not you trust that brand, and whether you want to continue using that type of product.” That experience between a consumer and product includes many elements. “Consumers tend to associate eﬃciency of the cream with its viscosity. The highest [equals] the best,” says Eric Desmaris, director of business development, Mega Airless. To address viscosity needs, he explains, “Airless dispensers are clearly high viscosity delivery systems. On regular nonairless dispensers, the cream will stick on the walls and also create a cavitation, which [can] block atmospheric pumps.” Carole Grassi, marketing director, dispensing, Albéa, shares, “Evacuation rate is an important matter for our customers. This is a concern particularly for highly viscous formulas. The best pack type used for a perfect evacuation is the airless pack—a 98% rate.” And she adds, “Any function that shows the level of the formula inside or ensures the consumers 100% consumption is a plus for a product.” In addressing packaging design needs, obviously a lot of factors—materials, costs, development time and so on— come into play. But it’s about balancing those needs with what the consumer will want. “At Fusion Packaging, much of the design and engineering that goes into our packages focuses on usability and the end consumer’s experience, and a major part of that is ensuring they are able to get out all of the product in our packages,” says Jessica Cahalen, director of marketing, Fusion Packaging. “From a marketing perspective, studies have shown that this is a key want for consumers, and it results in cost-savings because they are not wasting product. This also brings credibility to the brand, because it shows that they want to provide more value with their products.”

Removal Options “One source of frustration we often encounter in our research is when 34

Packaging

consumers have to come up with creative ‘shortcuts’ to get out every last bit of product from a package,” shares Cahalen. And beauty brands have addressed this challenge in several ways. For example, Cargo Cosmetics offers its foundation in a pouch-like package. “Our foundation originally launched in a glass bottle, but we were looking for something more lightweight and easy to use,” explains Fiona Baptiste, senior sales and merchandising director, Cargo Cosmetics. “The inspiration for the Liquid Foundation pouch came from seeing a child consuming a juice in a pouch. You could see the pouch itself decrease as the product was being consumed.” Keisha Wright, founder and CEO of Swoon, found innovation to be key to the development of the Swoon spoon/ applicator, a beauty tool that reaches for that last bit of lip gloss. “The original idea came about when I was on a trip in Aruba with four of my girlfriends. We were getting ready to go out and I was down to my last bit of gloss, and it was my favorite Bobbi Brown color,” she describes. “My girlfriend came out, and she saw me using a bobby pin to get to the last bit, because it’s a significant amount [left]. It’s like 20%, and I calculate that to be about $5 worth. So I was digging with this bobby pin, and she said, ‘Oh, I hate when that happens,’ noting the girl at the Bobbi Brown counter taught her how to remove the stopper [to get to the last bit].” After learning how messy and potentially dangerous the stopper removal technique could be though, Wright felt there had to be a better way. “I reached out to my current business partner, a mechanical engineer by trade.” Thus Wright and her partner developed the Swoon tool to address one of the biggest “beauty bothers,” as Wright calls it, which is now available in retailers such as Sephora and HauteLook. Of course, one of the biggest packaging options for products looking to get the last bit out is airless, which is offered by companies like Mega Airless, Albéa, Fusion Packaging and Aptar Beauty + Home. Aptar’s Keklik notes, “Airless packaging has multiple benefits that work together to enhance the consumer experience. Along with excellent evacuation and getting all the product out, the consumer experiences a package that is easy to use and that protects their beauty investment.”

Fusion Packaging’s Cahalen points out the visual potentials for airless packaging. “For example, our single-walled polypropylene Lift and Eclipse collections include mini, slim, standard and jumbo sizes that are all highly customizable for decoration while still maintaining a uniform aesthetic,” she explains, and Grassi shares, “Albéa’s Tubes+pumps solution are visually transparent bottles that allow the consumers to see the formula.” For beauty brands that don’t want to go the airless route, there are other options too. “For our Aria dispenser, for example, we can change out the dip tube to be a flexible tube material that can curve down to the bottom of the bottle,” explains Hooper. “We can also change the cut of the tube—and that can, in many cases, enable an atmospheric pump to get more product out versus a standard straight-cut dip tube.”

Good to the Last Drop Work will continue in figuring out how to get consumers every bit of product out of the packaging, and beauty brands and packaging suppliers will be at the forefront of that development. “Mega is constantly interfacing with brands and consumers to determine the market demand and then applying creative engineering to design the best solutions,” says Desmaris. “We follow the latest evolutions of creams and with new consumers’ behavior.” Keklik shares her expectations for this category, saying, “Moving forward, we may see a progression toward no waste of the product overall. With the continued green efforts across the globe, it wouldn’t be far-fetched to see eco-friendly packaging appeal to consumers as added value,” while Grassi points out the continuing need for refinement. “Product evacuation will continue to be a factor for end-users, along with ergonomics and formula protection and dosage precision,” she says. Whatever the path forward, consumers will continue to want all they can get of their beauty products, so it is up to you to figure out the best way to get it to them. n GCI

ABBY PENNING is associate editor of GCI magazine. She previously was the assistant editor for Skin Inc. magazine, where she won a silver FOLIO: Eddie award in 2009. Contact her at apenning@allured.com.

GCI October 2014

SampleS, packaging

o ot

a w a k

An evolving beauty industry can have brand marketers guessing at what techniques will work best to get products into consumers’ hands, but samples continue to be one of the strongest opportunities to do so.

IMPACT POINTS

Even in a rapidly evolving consumer landscape, samples are still a key marketing tactic. But some tweaks to the approach can help beauty brands make the most of sampling.

Smaller editions of full-size products are picking up steam in the beauty sector, giving consumers the opportunity to select several iterations of a product.

Beauty sampling programs are incredibly important in beauty sampling these days, so brands should look closely at these partnership options.

Being able to share samples— and online reviews and thoughts on products—are also pushing sampling forward.

Samples, Packaging

he world is changing fast and so are beauty consumers—this statement doesn’t come as a surprise to anyone. However, with new trends in everything from binge watching to beauty product consumption to everyday living, it is apparent millennials hold a fundamentally different view of life—a fact corroborated by Mintel’s “The Changing Face of Middle America” report. For example, younger generations are ditching cars. Car ownership and a driver’s license are no longer perceived as an initiation into adulthood—a ticket to freedom that many of us had once yearned for during the eternity of our teenage years. Ride sharing services like Uber and Lyft are all the rage now, and self-driving cars are being spotted on the horizon. Things are fast changing. Regardless of changing media consumption behavior and evolving car culture among these millennials (ages 19 to 34), one thing is still apparent: Shows are still shows and cars are still cars. Consumption patterns may be changing but consumers are still consuming. Shopping for tangible goods won’t go away, just as cars will still be around whether they have a driver holding the wheel or otherwise.

And even though these younger generations are increasingly suspicious and YouTube-dependent for all the product knowledge there is to be had, millennials also are curiously hungry for genuine experiences and interactions. Sampling can bridge the virtual and tactile, staging a platform for a positive consumerproduct experience, as well as providing an opportunity for education. In the beauty and personal care arena, samples continue to reign as the new black.

Sample Landscape At the 2014 Cosmoprof North America event in Las Vegas, Andrea Koons, executive director and global marketing with Murad, emphasized the importance of sampling as an effective promotional device. She said it is Murad’s second-largest marketing-related financial investment, following only the company’s ad spends. Anecdotally, as a contract filler, I continue to witness the growing demands for single-dose sample foil packets from beauty brand owners large and small. They accounted for nearly 40% of finished goods units produced by our company in 2013. In this landscape of abundance in

GCI October 2014

sample packets, the challenge is uniquely differentiating your sample packaging from the rest of the pack—and that’s just the start.

Small Is Big Trina Luong, creative director and principal at Los Angeles-based graphic design agency The Yellow Loft, speaks of the basic and primary challenge of designing effective creative on a sample package. In addition to the design restrictions of regulatory requirements, Luong says the small real estate on the sample package still needs to clearly communicate what the sample is and what it does. Also, the packaging should effectively reflect the look and feel of its full-size counterpart. Luong also notes the trend in which some full-size products are becoming increasingly smaller—a “mini-fication” phenomenon. Luong sees this as being both beneficial and challenging. For consumers, smaller retail units make it easier for them to purchase and actually finish a product, instead of, say, half-used lipsticks getting lost deep inside a bag. In addition, these mini products are presented with an opportunity to buy multiple varieties, colors, shades, scents and functions. For beauty brands, the ability to offer secondary or tertiary hero items in the line at a smaller size may contribute to selling more units. These “mini-fied” retail products also can be found elsewhere in store aisles beyond the beauty and personal care area. In food and beverage, Keurig’s K-Cups have been established as the de facto singleserve coffee solution, replacing many conventional coffee makers and French presses. Also, Coca-Cola’s mini cans, at a little less than half of the U.S. standard 12 ounce can’s volume, are slowly increasing their footprint on the shelves of grocery stores and convenience markets— and expanding the Coca-Cola’s product offerings. And for both of these packaging concepts, the idea seems to be about having just enough, echoing the same chorus sung by the mini beauty items. In addition, these products are priced at a premium; an eight-pack of mini cans, for example, can be more expensive than a 12-pack of regular-sized cans. As a frequent shopper herself, Luong notes that while she is excited about such miniature prospects, she’s also concerned about excessive packaging and waste. How beauty brands, designers and packaging suppliers can work together to improve the sustainability of small packaging without sacrificing its aesthetics will be a worthwhile challenge.

Boxed Beauty Samples Interestingly enough, as full-size beauty products are becoming smaller, sample products that are bigger also are stepping into the spotlight. The line between the smallest of retail offerings and so-called deluxe samples are blurring—converging may be a better way to look at it. Thanks in large part to the explosive numbers of monthly subscription box businesses, these deluxe samples are something consumers are becoming increasingly more accustomed to and expect. The deluxe samples must appear substantial. They must provide multiple application/treatment opportunities for the subscribers to experience the brand and its product in a more meaningful manner. Then, should the product prove itself worthy in the eyes of the beholder, the subscribers are converted beyond loyal consumers into brand evangelists. Brands can consider beauty box partners such as Birchbox, Glossybox and Ipsy as an extension of their own marketing programs. Elian Pres-Gurwits, president and managing director of Glossybox, www.GCImagazine.com

Samples, Packaging 37

Samples, Packaging describes Glossybox’s business and focus on prestige beauty products as a holistic, online and offline consumer-centric product consultation. By working with these kinds of marketers, beauty brands can extend their reach and harness the power of the online social influences they command. This influence is often built from the bottom up by their subscribers, and many of these subscribers aspire to be the next big online beauty expert.

Seeking Social Opportunities As experiential sampling programs continue to grow, their subscriber base show no signs of atrophy, and samples themselves must evolve quickly and creatively in order to leverage social influences and maximize brand loyalty. Sarah Jindal, senior innovation and insight analyst for beauty and personal care at Mintel, shared some of her insight on brand loyalty in the anti-aging skin care category. According to Jindal, although there are no clear answers, there are two prevailing school of thoughts: “One is that in such a crowded and confusing landscape, consumers are looking to their tried-and-true brands for new innovative products, thus strengthening brand loyalty. On the flip side, you have consumers that are happy to try anything and everything, and brand does not necessarily come into play when making choices.” For the consumers in the latter camp, one way to reach out to them and get them to try products is through social influences. Jindal notes, “Because there are so many products available, [consumers] often rely on a ‘friend,’ whether real or virtual, to help them. And if someone has used that product before and can lend some insights, that is a big time-saver. [Those who post] blogs and YouTube videos are big [influencers], as they try products and post reviews and opinions on products. And because they are ‘average consumers’ and not brand ambassadors, their opinions are valued.” How then can sample packaging be designed to truly embrace and enhance social experiences? Here’s one practical idea that I’d like to leave you with: At the 2014 Luxe Pack New York event, Benjamin Punchard, global packaging insight director at Mintel, shared a unique packaging concept he observed. Originally conceived by Ogilvy & Mather for Coca-Cola, it is an iconic Coke can that splits into two smaller cans for sharing. Dubbing it as “I See Double,” Punchard suggested that this packaging feature—allowing sharing experiences between two people—could be applied to beauty products as well. By the same token, the concept should work for sample packaging. Imagine a simple foil packet perforated in the middle that splits into two applications. It’s nothing that anyone familiar with multiple dosage packaging hasn’t seen, sure, but it is now purposed for sharing with a friend. Let consumers share their love and your samples. As long as sample packaging is designed to be relevant to the fastchanging lifestyles, samples will have a place in every beauty brand’s marketing program. In other words, samples will still be the new black. n GCI Originally from Tokyo, Moto Okawa is currently serving as a marketing manager for Diamond Wipes International, a southern California-based contract manufacturer specializing in wet wipe production, sheet mask packaging and sample packet filling. He also teaches art and design classes as an adjunct professor at Azusa Pacific University. Okawa holds an MFA in visual art from Claremont Graduate University. He received his bachelor of arts in art and trained in psychology and marketing at Azusa Pacific University.

38 Samples, Packaging GCI October 2014

CHEMICAL

n by Steve Herman

REACTION

It Ain’t Necessarily So Digging a little further into the ingredients on a cosmetic label reveals the hidden complexity and the potential variations of a formula.

“Imitation is not just the sincerest form of flattery—it’s the sincerest form of learning.”

—George Bernard Shaw

osmetics have ingredient labels. The original intent was to allow consumers to know what they are buying and to make more informed decisions on which products to use. In reality, the main beneficiaries are chemists trying to duplicate the formula—a process often politely termed “reverse engineering.” One could just read the label and know what is in the product, right? Well, not exactly. Many ingredient names cover a broad range of materials. A chemist trying to duplicate a product using the label information needs a strong sense of what these names really mean and how variations in the raw materials affect product appearance and performance. Consider a fanciful cleanser label containing the following ingredients: • Water • Sodium laureth sulfate • Cocamidopropyl Betaine • Carbomer • Dimethicone • Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice • Triethanolamine • Polylysine • Sodium Chloride • Citric Acid • Fragrance Most labs have a hot plate, microwave, balance, viscometer and pH meter, and that will go a long way toward analyzing this formula. The first property we want to know is the percent solids. That is easy to do:

weigh a small amount of the product, put it on a hot plate at a low temperature (don’t burn it!) or microwave until the weight remains constant, and the weight difference divided by the initial weight times 100% gives the result. It is not exactly just the water that is lost, as volatile silicones and fragrance materials can evaporate too, but it’s a good approximation. Viscosity and pH are obvious properties that characterize the product and are easy to measure. Since this is a cleanser, foam is also important. A dilute solution can be placed in a kitchen blender for a few seconds and the foam height measured. The foam initially produced is called the flash foam. Wait a little while and you get the foam retention. Put in a few drops of olive oil and you can see the effect when the cleanser has to combat oily hair, for example. Delving further into the specific ingredients, remember they are labeled in order of predominance, which is helpful, but the gloves are off under 1%—and a lot can happen with something like a carbomer (used as a thickener, stabilizer and emulsifier) between 0.01% and 0.99%. With our hypothetical product, probably everything below the cocamidopropyl betaine is under 1%. There are several reasons while the “same’ material can be different. For example, “carbomer” represents a family, not a precise material. Various starting materials can be used to make the product. Different byproducts or impurities can be present. Even if all the manufacturing specifications are identical, different plants with different equipment can get different results. Differences may by minute, but the consequences in a finished product can be huge.

A Little More Depth Sodium laureth sulfate is ethoxylated sodium lauryl sulfate (a detergent, surfactant and foaming agent), and the 2 mole version is the most common [a “mole” is a chemical mass unit]. It can be called more precisely “sodium laureth-2 sulfate,” but the “2” is an average value. The material may all be exactly 2 moles. But if it is 50% 1 mole and 50% 3 moles, it also averages to 2 moles—although it actually contains no 2 moles at all (see Figure 1). Each mole of ethoxylation changes the irritation and foaming properties, so these 2 versions will perform quite differently. Look in the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (www.cosmeticsinfo.org/Ingredient-dictionary) for cocamidopropyl betaine and you will find a long list of suppliers and trade names. Often the same company will sell a half dozen versions. How can they all be cocamidopropyl betaine? For starters, the commercial product is 30% active and 5% salt. Different starting materials can have a profound effect. It is possible to get the carbon chain from the methyl ester of C12-18 or from coconut oil. The methyl ester will add no glycerin; coconut oil will add 5-10% glycerin to the betaine, having a significant effect on viscosity building and foam. Carbomer is a generic term for “a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene.” There is a lot of wiggle room in that definition. And beware: most carbomers do not work well in surfactant systems. BF Goodrich Performance Materials division developed the basic products many years ago, and through evolution,

40 Chemical Reaction GCI October 2014

The base must be put together in the proper order—the triethanolamine added to neutralize the carbopol and the citric acid and sodium chloride are used at the end to adjust pH and viscosity, respectively. The viscosity response is the salt curve, where the viscosity rises, peaks and falls (see Figure 2). Conventional wisdom is to aim a bit to the left of the curve so a mistake won’t be a disaster. A mistake to the right of the peak can lead to a thin product with no easy fix. And lastly, of all the vague terminology on a label, none is less precise than “fragrance.” It is a mixture that can include natural oils, synthetic chemicals, antioxidants, solvents and solubilizers. When trying to match an existing formula/scent, one could try to have a fragrance company just match the odor by smell, but generally analytical work is needed. First solvents are used to separate the fragrance from the base, and then gas chromatography-mass spectrometry is used to separate and identify the components of the fragrance. The formula is fine-tuned by a perfumer or trained duplication chemist.

Figure 1

Figure 2

In Summary

that company became Lubrizol. There are nine carbomers on the Lubrizol website (www.lubrizol.com). Some are described as “traditional” (the 934, 940 and 941 products); some are newer, easy to disperse versions. It may be all about the label, so if you want to list “carbomer” on the label and flexibility in the ingredient, look at products such as Lubrizol’s Ultrez 10, which thickens, stabilizes and offers sensory benefits.1 Dimethicone is a polymer, and its viscosity and feel change dramatically with molecular weight. Whether it is a thin liquid or a gum, the label stays the same. Now we need some Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (aloe vera). There are many suppliers, so, using the GCI directory (dir.gcimagazine. com/search/gci_supplier.html) and simply www.GCImagazine.com

going in alphabetical order, we call Active Organics. They have multiple versions with options to customize. You can have a syrup or an oily liquid. The products are based on 0.5% solid content, as found naturally in aloe leaf. The versions are oil soluble, water soluble in glycerin or powder. For the duplicating chemist, there is a road map since some versions are blends with diluents like mineral oil, safflower seed oil or castor seed oil—all of which must appear separately on the label. Next, polylysine is a preservative made by fermentation. As a polymer, it can have a wide range of molecular weights, and not all molecular weight polylysines have the same preservative effectiveness. A molecular weight of 3000 to 5000 Daltons would be good.

There are many nuances in formulating not covered here, but the basic process is clear: get the product, read the label, check the properties, know the individual materials, guess a formula and them make adjustments. The ultimate test is for a random user to not be able to tell the products apart in appearance or performance. For more insights and advice, visit www.chemistscorner. com, a treasure for aspiring cosmetic chemists and those who simply want to understand basic formulating—or pick up a copy of Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry (www. alluredbooks.com/Cosmetic-Chemistry/ Beginning-Cosmetic-Chemistry-Third-Edition. html). n GCI References 1. www.lubrizol.com/PersonalCare/Products/Carbopol/ CarbopolUltrez10.html (Accessed July 30, 2014)

STEVE HERMAN is president of Diffusion LLC, a consulting company specializing in technology development in the beauty and cosmetic industry. He is a principal in PJS Partners, offering formulation, marketing and technology solutions for the personal care and fragrance industries. He served the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) as chapter chair in 1992 and 2013, and is an adjunct professor in the Fairleigh Dickinson University masters in cosmetic science program. He also is a fellow in the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC). Chemical Reaction 41

The latest in Packaging innovation

SUPPLIER NEWS

Fusion Packaging

Fusion Packaging and Anthony Brands partnered to package the skin care brand’s High Performance product trio—the 50 ml Vitamin A Facial Treatment, the 30 ml Vitamin C Facial Serum and the 15 ml Continuous Moisture Eye Cream. As part of Anthony Brands’ recent revamp, it was essential the packages conveyed the brand’s message of being “developed for men and borrowed by women,” and Fusion’s Tru airless collection paired well with this gender-neutral aesthetic. To give the product trio an upscale, sophisticated edge, Fusion injected the packages with a lustrous smoky black paired with matte silver silkscreen decoration and a matching hot stamp band around the base of the overcap. Additionally, Anthony Brands selected Fusion’s 100 ml Lift Jumbo airless bottles to package its new Wake Up Call product and to repackage its Ingrown Hair Treatment. To remain cohesive with the brand’s other products, these packages feature a similar jet black color-injected bottle, pump and overcap with a shiny finish. www.fusionpkg.com

Sweet Brush Up

Quadpack

Quadpack’s new range of Brush Tubes offer a sophisticated solution to apply cosmetics and lotions. Simply squeeze the tube and brush the formula onto the skin with gentle strokes. Featruing a high-end brush applicator and an open/close valve system, application is soft, smooth, precise and resistant to leakage. The Brush Tube’s options make it suitable for a wide range of applications, from cosmeceuticals to makeup, and the tube comes in PE monolayer, multi-layer PE/EVOH or lined with an aluminum barrier for ultimate formula protection. With a capacity range from 5–70 ml and a diameter range from 16–30 mm, this pack option offers a brush that is composed of easy-to-clean, synthetic bristles in brown, white or black that feel soft when stroked on the skin, and multiple decoration options are available to transform the tube to match brand specifications. www.quadpack.net

TricorBraun commenced operations in India with the opening of TricorBraun-India, Pvt. Ltd. in Mumbai. Glass producer Vitro announced it will invest nearly $90 million for the construction of a new plant to manufacture glass containers in Brazil to serve the beauty, cosmetics, fragrance and specialty segments. Luxe Pack Monaco announced that, in 2014, the event is opening its doors to suppliers of beauty formulation, subcontracting and fullservice development to help present a global showcase for beauty, cosmetic and fragrance brands. Called Luxe Formulation, the event will inaugurate in October 2014, creating a platform for professionals in the business of standard or customized beauty formulation, packaging, filling, full service, private label brands and all associated services.

PEOPLE David Lee to project engineer, Fusion Packaging.

Great Things in Small Packs Albéa’s My Little Cap—one of the industry’s smallest flip-top cap tubes— was selected by Dermophil for its Soin Universel face and body cream sampler tubes. The Albéa innovation delivers the same look and functionality as larger solutions in an ultra-compact diameter size that makes it an ideal choice for sampler packs. In addition to the ergonomic benefit of one-hand opening, My Little Cap also requires a high-pull force, which makes it safe for children. The white, 10 ml tube’s diameter is 19 mm with two-color offset, and the cap is green with a matte varnish. www.albea-group.com

Albéa

Upscale Harmony

New Toppers

Aptar Beauty + Home provided closure and pump options for multiple beauty products. The Suave Professionals Moroccan Infusion Dry Body Oil uses a gloss black EuroMist spray pump and the Moroccan Infusion Body Lotion is topped by a gloss black Classic Snap Top closure. Also, the Tweak-d Rise and Shine Self Cleansing Hair Treatment is delivered by the airless Bag-On-Valve System and topped with the S20 accessory, both from Aptar Beauty + Home, and the Chi IronGuard 44 Style & Stay Firm Hold Protecting Spray uses the travel-friendly Aptar Glide slide-to-lock accessory. www.aptar.com/beauty-home

Aptar Beauty + Home

WRAP UP

42 Wrap Up GCI October 2014

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MAIN INGREDIENTS

Ingredients now on the market

More moisture, better protection

Croda debuted Hydroastivum P for moisturization and anti-irritancy properties for the hair and skin and Crodasone P for protection against cuticle cracking caused by heat and styling damage. Its additional antiirritancy properties are suitable for skin and scalp care. Crodasone P is an advanced copolymer that offers protection against cuticle cracking caused by common hairstyling practices. It is ideally suited to leave-on styling products or conditioners claiming heat defense. It is also can be effective in shampoos and conditioners. www.croda.com

Ultra Mild Surfactant

Innospec added Iselux Ultra Mild to its Iselux line of surfactants. A concentrated surfactant blend developed for use in ultra-mild cleanser applications, Iselux Ultra Mild is tear-free and extremely gentle on skin and hair. It is approximately 80% naturally derived from renewable plant-based resources for ease of use. www.innospecinc.com

Botanicals With New Preservative Booster Bio-Botanica announced its Zea Botanicals botanical extracts are now available with Zemea propanediol, an all-natural, preservativeboosting humectant from DuPont Tate & Lyle that can be used to replaced the petroleum-based glycols. www.bio-botanica.com

Skin Repair

Silab developed Cohesium, a repairing and moisturizing active ingredient that works to normalize the barrier function of skin, stimulating the natural synthesis of lipids. Cohesium maintains an effective epidermal barrier and ensures tailored skin hydration in any moisturizing and restructuring skin care products. www.silab.fr

SUPPLIER NEWS BASF’s Tinosorb A2B micronized UV filter received EU approval for use in cosmetics under the new EU Cosmetics Regulation. Coast Southwest acquired an additional 33,107-square-foot warehouse/office facility at the company’s California headquarters . Croda announced the Ecocert approval of transparent grades of mineral UV filters: Solaveil CT-300 (titanium dioxide) and Solaveil CZ-300 (zinc oxide). And the company’s Chanac, France, manufacturing site achieved certification to the European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients’ Good Manufacturing Practice. The HallStar Company announced a strategic expansion of its natural functional ingredients portfolio with the recent acquisition of the Florasolvs natural esters product line from FloraTech. The acquisition includes the FloraTech trade names and proprietary manufacturing technology. Floratech appointed Safic-Alcan Italia as its distributor in Italy. Naturex is now a member of the Union for Ethical BioTrade. TRI-K Industries announced Baobab Tein NPNF, Quinoa Pro NPNF, Rice Tein NPNF and TRIglyphix Sense are now Ecocert approved. Evonik Industries now offers ingredients that have been certified in accordance with the standard of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil. This includes emulsifiers and consistency enhancers. Impact Colors released its Color Trends 2016+ report, its original forecast of the trends in personal care and cosmetic solutions. It features 20 pigment samples formulated for special effects applications. Clariant introduced its sustainability-promoting EcoTain concept and label to help its customers meet the increasing consumer preference for cosmetics with an ecological focus. Henry Lamotte, Dr. Straetmans, Greentech and Indena are now exclusively represented by Beraca in Brazil. Under the name BergaCare SB Organic, Berg + Schmidt now offers a shea butter certified as “Organic/Bio” under the criteria of Ecocert Deutschland GmbH.

Hair, Sun and More

Lonza Personal Care announced the launch of its the Laraquat specialty conditioning polymer for hair care applications. Based on a natural extract (galactoarabinan) from larch trees, it improves hair manageability and protects hair from humidity. Additionally, Lonza debuted its new Lonzest DC Emollient Ester, which offers skinconditioning properties. www.lonza.com/personalcare

Super Sweets

Univar showcased a range of innovative textures based around the theme “Sweety Pop-Up” at the 2014 MakeUp in Paris event. Innovations on display included External Exotic Tattoo, a long-lasting tattoo effect eye shadow that uses Dow Corning MQ-1640 Flake Resin, a unique blend of MQ&T Propyl silicone resins that provides a durable and flexible film on the skin, with strong wash-off and transfer resistance, and Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend, which boasts enhanced formulation compatibility with organic ingredients. www.univar.com

Multifunctional UV Filter

Novacyl, a part of the Novacap Group, introduced its YOSH homosalate UV filter—an oil-soluble chemical that absorbs in the UVB range. According to the company, it is also a good stabilizer for other sunscreen actives. www.novacyl.eu/en

Microbiome Homeostasis

Greentech designed an active to fight underarm odor while maintaining skin microbiome homeostasis. Probiophyte Fresh inhibits the proliferation of unwanted underarm bacteria but doesn’t disrupt proliferation of Staphylococcus epidermidis, a bacteria that produces bacteriocins essential to counteract pathogens. Additionally, the company launched a range of functional oily actives. GreenSofts combine properties of soft butters with higher feel sensory and auto-emulsion capacities. www.greentech.fr

Ginger Root Protection

Symrise launched SymVital AR, a natural ginger root extract that works to improve skin texture and the smoothness of stressed skin, decreasing wrinkles and promoting an even complexion. It also helps to reduce signs of sun damages. www.symrise.com

Colored MicrobeadS

Impact Colors announced Nature XFol, a new line of Candelilla Beads Exfoliators created specifically to replace polyethylene microbeads. The wax is a safe nonirritant for the skin and is even ingestible, which makes it an option for toothpaste. The line is available in colors and effects pigments. www.impactcolorsinc.com

44 Main Ingredients GCI October 2014

Products and SERVICES

showcase

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING HEALTH • BEAUTY • OTC • HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS A TOTAL SERVICE – Formulation to Drop Shipping Long and Short Runs FDA-EPA Registered Visit our web site at www.ecometics.com 19 Concord St., So. Norwalk, CT 06854

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For quality custom reprints or e-prints, please contact:

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Products and Services Showcase 45

PRODUCTS and SERVICES

showcase CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

For quality custom reprints or e-prints, please contact:

Foster Printing Services 1-866-879-9144 sales@fosterprinting.com www.fosterprinting.com

46 Products and Services Showcase GCI October 2014

PACKAGING

to reserve space in this section, contact Kim Jednachowski

kjednachowski@allured.com 1-630-344-6054

Tom Harris

tharris@allured.com 1-201-455-4702

Jane Evison

jane-evison@btconnect.com 44(0)-1430-441685

www.GCImagazine.com

Products and Services Showcase

Ad Index The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

Page

Advertiser

Phone

WEB SITE

ABA Packaging Corp.

1-631-758-4200

www.abapackaging.com

Alluredbooks

1-630-653-2155

www.Alluredbooks.com

BASF

1-973-245-6000

www.carecreations.basf.com

Bayer Materialscience AG

49-2148-4766-9757

www.bayermaterialscience.com

Bioscreen Testing Services

1-310-214-0043

www.bioscreen.com

Brownyard Group

1-631-666-5050

www.brownyard.com

Cover 4

Centerchem, Inc.

1-203-822-9800

www.centerchem.com

Clariant Corp.

1-704-395-6610

www.fun.clariant.com

CoValence, Inc.

1-480-897-0551

www.covalence.com

Croda, Inc.

1-732-417-0800

www.crodausa.com

Deveraux Specialties LLC

1-818-837-3700

www.deverauxspecialties.com

Diamond Wipes

1-800-454-1077

www.diamondwipes.com

Fusion Packaging

1-214-747-2004

www.fusionpkg.com

ICMAD

1-847-991-4499

www.icmad.org

Inoac Packaging Group, Inc.

1-502-348-5159

www.inoacusa.com

JSN Packaging Products, Inc.

1-949-458-0050

www.jsn.com

Lipotec, LLC

1-201-850-1213

www.lipotec.com

McKernan Packaging Clearing House

1-775-356-6111

www.mckernan.com

Prosys Innovative Pkg Equip.

1-800-231-3455

www.prosysfill.com

SCC New York

1-845-639-4045

www.nyscc.org

Spectra Colors Corp.

1-201-997-0606

www.spectracolors.com

Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.

1-800-985-2228

www.sundeepinc.com

The Beauty Company

1-202-686-4844

www.thebeautycompany.co

U.S. Nonwovens Corp.

1-631-952-0100

www.usnonwovens.com

7 31 3 29 Cover 2 11 4

Cover 3

for advertising info Kim Jednachowski

Tom Harris

Jane Evison

Paige Crist

All US States Except NJ & PA kjednachowski@allured.com 1-630-344-6054

NJ & PA, Canada, Central & South America tharris@allured.com 1-201-445-4702

Europe & Asia jane-evison@btconnect.com 44-(0)-1430-441685

Fragrance pcrist@allured.com 1-630-730-9240

48 Ad Index GCI October 2014

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