Sonnets from Satpura

longbreak

ROOM WITH A VIEW: Hotel Panchavati is among the budget hotels run by MP Tourism in Pachmarhi

ZABEEH AFAQUE/HINDUSTAN TIMES

Sonnets from Satpura

Pachmarhi, Madhya Pradesh’s only hill station, offers scenic vistas, lovely waterfalls, a thrilling variety of avifauna and outdoor activities and adventure sports, says Devika Raghave

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ELIAS PULLIYATTU

SCENES FROM A HILL STATION: (Clockwise from far left, facing page) Tourists enjoying a shower under the Bee Fall; a serene view of the Pachmarhi lake; tourists take in the Satpura range; sundown at Dhoopgarh

Sitting petite at a height of 1,000 m Bhopalis and is an easy access from the neighbouring states. The spectacle one here, is just marvellous. The majestic Satpura ranges transport you to a different time while taking a morning walk or just lazing around the lawns watching

ELIAS PULLIYATTU

gets to exult in at this time of the year

ZABEEH AFAQUE/HINDUSTAN TIMES

Pachmarhi is the closest hill station for

the hoodless Gypsys laden with boisterous youngsters with jarring Bollywood numbers. But as they quiten down, you

Forsyth here at Pachmarhi in 1862. It

Tourism department has provided

though it was disrupted by monkeys

herd of Indian bisons graze about gently

fall back in time.

was here that Bori, the first reserve for-

amenities and accommodation for all

frolicking on the tin roof. So, we drove

but get alert as we drive past them. It’s

est of India, was born.

kinds of travellers. That taken care of,

up to Dhoopgarh just in time to catch a

the calm that you revel in here, watching

glimpse of the setting sun. Amidst the

the peaks being transformed into a

hullabaloo, we drew much consolation

painting.

I have visited Pachmarhi many a time, but each season has been extraor-

Rich in waterfalls and vantage points,

the best thing is to roam and roam free.

dinary. Some 10 years ago, I was privi-

the Pachmarhi region was the kingdom

The Bee Fall were in full swing with chil-

leged to stay at the Mahadeo Forest

of the Gond tribe king Bhawut Singh and

dren coming in from various schools

Resthouse that seems to be getting

became a hill station and sanatorium for

from all over India and, I, for one, was

harder to stay at of late. having got a

British troops in the Central Provinces of

there only to get my feet tickled by the

tiny break from the usual routine, I

India in the second half of the nine-

tiny fish in the pool, waiting to nibble at

rounded up my family and landed up at

teenth century.

your feet. Now who needs a Japanese

the famous Bison Lodge. It is the first ever building constructed by James

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Considering that it is the perfect getaway for all class and kind, the MP

spa!

After the clamour, it was siesta time

Rich in waterfalls and vantage points, the Pachmarhi region was the kingdom of the Gond tribe king Bhawut Singh and the capital of the Gond dynasty

from the hot, fluffy, most delicious aloo

The slight chill brought about by

vadas. Apart from the humdrum, Dhoopgarh offers magical moments at both sunrise and sunset.

You can easily catch a glimpse of the rare red mongoose or a sloth bear family sauntering about in search of grub. A

sundown took us away from the highland to where a snug family time awaited. Nights here are totally for long walks and sitting about catching up on time lost. The long verandahs and courtyards are ideal to relax and AUGUST 2012 - DISCOVER INDIA

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NAVIGATOR HOW TO REACH Bhopal (195 km) is the nearest airport. Here, you can easily hire taxis for Pachmarhi. By rail, you can travel up to Pipariya (47 km) on the MumbaiHowhrah track. By road, it is well-connected to all major cities and towns of Madhya Pradesh and the cities of neighbouring states. Delhi to Pachmarhi is about 875 km and Jaipur to the hill station is about 560 km.

Essentials: Sunglasses, sunblock, wide-brimmed hats, swimming trunks, trekking shoes, binoculars, camera and a rucksack.

flora, Pachmarhi is a haven for naturalists. Towards the end of June, the nightsky gets all twinkly with fireflies in a frenzy to mate. Waves of these flickering lights enchants even the most hardcore city slickers.

Pachmarhi is a destination for all age groups. It’s fun for the little ones as they get to watch the wildlife at Bori or otherwise, for the youngsters, it’s a haven for trekking, paragliding or camping and, for the not so young, it is a peaceful site ELIAS PULLIYATTU

Where to stay: Log on to www.mptourism.com for a variety of stay options and hotel reservations.

treks. Rich in bird species as well as

ZABEEH AFAQUE/HINDUSTAN TIMES

Must dos: Paragliding and adventure sports are organised by MP Tourism daily at Pachmarhi’s only air strip.

Enjoy nature walks and boat rides in the lake, wild berry and nimbu paani at Handi Khoh, a dip in Bee Falls and have hot aloo vada at Dhoopgarh. Buy genuine rudraksh at Jatashankar.

ETERNAL SIGHTS: The Denwa river flows swiftly through the Denwa valley; the Jatashankar Shiv temple is a natural cave, located north of Pachmarhi, in Hoshangabad district

to enjoy some boating, watching the monsoon bring in the clouds or bask in the beauty of the rising or setting sun.

Pachmarhi lies within the Pachmarhi Biosphere Preserve, created in 1999 to link two forest reserves into a larger

listen to engrossing jungle tales nar-

visit the Gupt Mahadev, Jatashankar

tains stalagmites revered as naturally-

Mahadev. This narrow path can be

wildlife conservation area at the highest

rated by the watchman.

and Chauragarh. The Chauragarh tem-

formed lingams. The steep path that

passed by only eight people at a time.

point in Central India. UNESCO added

ple, a popular pilgrimage centre devoted

takes you deep inside the caves, is

the bus stand via the Old Church, the

to Shiva, is located four kilometres away,

strewn with figures of Ganesha or a lion

air heady with the fragrance of mango

at the end of a steep climb of 1,300

formed by erosion and calcification by

blooms. For tourists, the bus stand is a

steps from Gupt Mahadev. Devotees

perennial ground water.

multi-purpose zone of shopping for trin-

have to make a strenuous climb carrying

kets. There’s also a newspaper vendor, a

a trishul as an offering to Lord Shiva.

tea stall and the famous Subeda Sri

Jatashankar, a natural cave temple, is

Shiva lingam have been enshrined. The

Ram Akhada.

located in a deep ravine, with enormous

path that leads to the Gupt Mahadev

boulders perched above. The cave con-

cave goes from inside the Bade

Early the next morning, I walked to

Devotees from near and far come to

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The Gupt Mahadev is a 40-feet-long cave, in which idols of Ganesha and a

The Pachmarhi Biosphere Preserve was created in 1999 to link two forest reserves into a larger wildlife conservation area at the highest point in Central India

The Gond tribal villages in these parts,

Pachmarhi park to its list of Biosphere

revere the forest and still live off its boun-

Reserves in May 2009. Pachmarhi also

ty — gathering honey and roots for vari-

has a lot of cave paintings in the forests,

ous ailments is their primary occupation.

some of which have been dated to be as

Chauragarh still remains one of the most

much as 10,000 years old. The endless

revered temples of the Gond tribes;

stretches of the Satpura range come

Pachmarhi once belonged to them.

At the ticket counter at the Bison Lodge, hire a guide for the surrounding

alive with a burst of colours in spring and the valley is oversome with the lilting fragrance of flowers.

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