Ahye464world of watches summer 2015

#29 summer 2015

PURE SUBSTANCE

Luminor submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio - PAm615

SUrf & TUrf

Luxury watch brands straddle land and sea

BeST Of BaSeL

80 stunning novelties of the year’s biggest watch and jewellery show, plus the latest in smartwatches

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• Evolution of the IWC Portugieser • Pop culture makes its mark on watchmaking • Highlights: Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and more

www.corum.ch

Cortina Watch Fahrenheit 88 Tel : 603 2142 1161 • KLCC Tel : 603 2166 6355 • One Borneo KK Tel : 608 848 5269 Sincere Watch KLCC Tel : 603 2166 2181 • Pavilion KL Tel : 603 2141 8418 • Starhill Tel : 603 2141 8848 The Hour Glass Lot 10 Tel : 603 2144 1620 • The Gardens Tel : 603 2287 7830

GOLDEN BRIDGE, THE ONE AND ONLY BAGUETTE MOVEMENT

FRANCK MULLER BOUTIQUE SINGAPORE 01-07 ION ORCHARD • L1-55 THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS MELBOURNE 119 COLLINS STREET JAKARTA PLAZA INDONESIA BANGKOK SIAM PARAGON AUTHORISED RETAILERS SINGAPORE SINCERE FINE WATCHES TAKASHIMAYA S.C. • THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS • SUNTEC CITY VIVOCITY • THE SHOPPING GALLERY AT THE HILTON WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND PARAGON KUALA LUMPUR SINCERE FINE WATCHES SURIA KLCC • PAVILION KL

HY T BOUTIQUE | Starhill Gallery | Kuala Lumpur THE TIME PlACE | Plaza Indonesia | Jakarta THE TIME PlACE | Pacific Place | Jakarta HYT ASIA HEAdQUARTERS | 24 Cairnhill Road | Singapore | asia@hytwatches.com

H2 | Full Gun HYT is the first timepiece ever to combine mechanical and liquid engineering. H2, unique Swiss technology and movement made in cooperation with Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi - manual winding and 8-day power-reserve - driving a unique high-tech fluidic technology. HYT - a new dawn in watchmaking.

H Y T WATC H E S .CO M

Contents

49

REGULARS NEWS 34 WOW Team

46 Gran Turismo

36 WOW Contributors

Chopard continues its longstanding partnership with the Mille Miglia

38 Editor’s Note 40 Publisher’s Note 42 Cover Watch

Cover

Photography Green Plastic Soldier Watch Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio PAM615

244 Listings 247 Subscribe 256 Finishing

Pitch Perfect Portuguese fado singer Mariza won the 2015 Glashütte Original Music Festival Award

48 Talent Spotting Rado introduced its YoungStars programme aimed at fostering junior tennis players

Red Alert Eddie Redmayne joined Omega as its international ambassador – the first such signing since 2013

49 Arctic Triumph Edox ambassador Christian Redl successfully completed his expedition to the North Pole

Joint Venture HYT announced its collaboration with Geneva-based sailing team, Alinghi

Breguet, the innovator.

Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon 5377 The complexity of an extra-thin movement is equalled only by the elegance and slenderness of the watch itself. The Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon 5377, a complex yet delightfully uncluttered creation, is endowed with an 80-hour power reserve thanks to a patented high-energy barrel. It is a true testament to the daring and creative spirit of Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon. History is still being written...

B R E G U E T B O U T I Q U E – L L1 M A I N L O B B Y J W M A R R I O T T H O T E L K U A L A L U M P U R 18 3 J A L A N B U K I T B I N TA N G 5 510 0 K U A L A L U M P U R M A L AY S I A W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M

Contents

72

REPORTS 50 Classic Italian

Panerai opens its largest boutique in the heart of Hong Kong’s luxury shopping district

54 The Swiss Connection

64 Make It Pop

Announced to the surprise of the world, the Horological Smartwatch is Frédérique Constant’s weapon of choice to compete in the battlefield of connected watches

Add some colour to your watch collection – luxury need not be understated

58 Saxon Tradition The manufacture Glashütte Original is a crucible of fine German watchmaking, and its watches are the essence within

72 Pure Substance Where before, it was one of Panerai’s best-kept secrets, the Submersible is the manufacture’s ultra-versatile and de facto dive icon today

Contents

AGENDA

HIGHLIGHTS

Elshan Tang doesn’t just collect watches – he also designs and sells his own

Cartier, the undisputed master of shaped watches, reimagines the tonneau with a new line called Clé de Cartier

92 Watch Collector 94 Talk The Talk: Alessandro Braga The sales director of Armand Nicolet tells us what this brand has that few others do

95 Ask The Expert Intrepid watch collector and star horology blogger, SJX, lends a hand on all things watch related

98 Design Is Key

100 Super Blockbuster With the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph, Audemars Piguet serves up centuries-long watchmaking savoir-faire in a futuristic package

102 An Homage To Science Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Geophysic 1958 honours its predecessor from over 50 years ago with a highly technical watch in an upsized case

104 From Dawn To Dusk Panerai reprises the equation of time complication in two new Radiomir 1940 and Luminor 1950 models

100

106 Old School Cool

To mark the Portugieser’s 75th anniversary, IWC has released a watch referencing the very first ones introduced in 1939

108 A Full House A. Lange & Söhne serves up major upgrades to its fabled Datograph

110 Ode To Chronometry Montblanc’s Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph combines two complications of precise timekeeping in one watch

112 Star Struck Roger Dubuis continues its unconventional take on skeletonisation, this time with starshaped motifs

Contents

HIGHLIGHTS 114 Size Matters

After creating the behemoth that is the Giga Tourbillon, Franck Muller continues its streak with supersized tourbillons – meet the Vanguard Gravity

116 Polar Opposites Graham does a Jekyll and Hyde with the Geo.Graham Tourbillon and the Prodive

118 Foreign Territory Forgoing Swiss conventions in favour of rebellious aesthetics and unconventional materials, BRM is looking to jumpstart a French revolution of sorts in racing-inspired sport watches

120 Basel Report: Top Notes Headlining BaselWorld in this new watch year are never-before-seen complications, classical revivals, acts of sheer horological audacity, and more astonishing feats

134 Basel Report: Timely Celebration It’s red-letter day for a host of brands this year, and for eager watch buyers, this means new limited editions to look forward to

134

154 Basel Report: Oh Time, Where Art Thou

All manner of métiers d’arts have found a way into luxury watchmaking and this artistic tidal wave shows no sign of abating

164 Basel Report: Wrist Takers Watch straps come to the fore this year with thoughtful designs and sophisticated engineering. Here’re the standouts, with their watches, of course

170 Basel Report: Face Time

146 Basel Report: Technology Meets Tradition

With unconventional designs and intricate decorations, visually arresting timepieces demand more than a just cursory glance

The watch industry fights back and gains functionality never possible before with traditional timepieces

177 Basel Report: Active Pursuit Sporty lifestyles need equally sporty watches, whether in the water or at the track

Contents

FEATURES

192

182 Top Guns

200 Top Of The Pops

The quintessential pilot’s watch is much loved by watch collectors, but do they still have a role to play in the cockpit or on the wrist of an aviator?

Never has popular culture exerted such a strong influence on watchmaking – and vice versa – as now. From blockbusters to comic books, music moguls to art aficionados, the admiration is mutual and here to stay

192 Full Power Rely on your inner strength and you will be the winner

218 Surf & Turf On land or at sea, there’s always a place for horology’s finest

CHRONOFIGHTER OVERSIZE

2CCBK.B15A Carbon trigger chronograph Full carbon case & buckle Superlight WWW.GRAHAM1695.COM

SWISS WATCH GALLERY, PAVILLION KL KUALA LUMPUR T. +603 2142 9977 WATATIME – KLCC, CITY CENTER KUALA LUMPUR T. +603 2181 0718 SINCERE FINE WATCHES, SURIA KLCC SHOPPING CENTER KUALA LUMPUR T. +603 2166 2181 AMERICA WATCH, MID VALLEY CITY KUALA LUMPUR T. +603 2284 4228

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INTERVIEWS

Contents

230 Keeping The Faith As the fourth-generation owner of the esteemed Patek Philippe watch company, Thierry Stern carries the weight of the world on his shoulders, but he also has it at his feet

236 Independent Strength The watchmaking industry has changed vastly over the past 50 years, but the Oris watch company remains true to its roots, thanks to the august leadership of its executive chairman, Ulrich Herzog

EVENTS

240 Rebels With A Cause A trio of independent brands arrive on our shores to celebrate watchmaking on a different tack

241 Three’s Company Sincere Fine Watches united three watchmaking greats at its recent Master Craftsmen and Bespoke Art event

242 It’s The Bom Malaysia welcomes the arrival of Bomberg Watches

Editorial

adVErtiSiNG

MaNaGEMENt

CELINE YAP

AILEEN SoH

oLIVIEr BurLot

Fashion dirEctor

sEnior salEs & MarkEting ManagErs

ExEcutivE dirEctors

Managing Editor

vicE-prEsidEnt

tok wEI LuN

wILBEr go rEmuS HENg

FEaturEs WritEr

jAmIE tAN

advErtising ManagEr

contributing Editor

CHrIStINA LoH

joSHuA YAP

adMinistrativE ExEcutivE

Editorial intErn

SHIkIN moHD

YEoNA CHoI

adMinistrativE assistant

HELEN tANg SHoBANA guNASAgAr

CrEatiVE

cEo/publishEr

juLIAN PEH gAEL BurLot associatE publishEr

kELVIN tAN

MarkEtiNG MarkEting dirEctor

NICHoLAS tAN MarkEting ManagEr

CLArENCE CHoI

art dirEctor

joAELLE Ng

FiNaNCE

dEsignErs

chiEF FinancE oFFicEr

jErEmY ANg moSSY CHEw tAN BooN HAu

ELLIN ZHAo

MarkEting ExEcutivE

VIVIAN CHow mAY ANDrEA YAo

accounts assistant

CYNtHIA ZHANg

www.watchwow.com aSiaN EditioNS INDONESIA’S PREMIER WATCH PERIODICAL SUMMER 2014

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

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WORLD OF WATCHES HONG KONG unit 1801, 18/F, 28 connaught road West, sheung Wan, hong kong tel: (852) 2581 0275 Email: venus.chan@ww-mg.com

492937

ISSN 1978-4929

9 771978

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#11 SPRING 2014

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SEMPER LIBERO

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(P. Jawa) Rp. 95.000,(Luar P. Jawa) Rp. 100.000,-

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WORLD OF WATCHES SINGAPORE hEart MEdia group 178 clemenceau ave, 3F, haw par glass tower singapore 239926 tel (65) 6733 9931 Fax (65) 6733 5661 Email: info@heart-media.com

$50 #4 SUMMER 2014

A. Lange & Söhne Breaks New Ground in Haute Horlogerie

CURABITUR ULLAMCORPER

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2014 GENEVA REPORT Tourbillons, perpetual calendars, minute repeaters and more

HERITAGE WATCHES

Should watch brands keep reviving historical pieces?

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Great Buys Under $20,000 Cartier History & Style exhibition Photo Shop: How to shoot watches •

•

•

WORLD OF WATCHES INDONESIA pt. kingpin MEdia Jalan hang tuah no.2, kebayoran baru Jakarta 12120, indonesia tel: +62 21 722 4632 / +62 21 722 4639 Email: info@kingpinmedia.co.id

WORLD OF WATCHES VIETNAm adprEss advErtising & prEss sErvicEs co.

Hanoi: g8, tang 8, toa nha b, 96 dinh cong, Q.thanh xuan ( new office address) tel: (04) 3200 5656 Ho Chi minh: 398 truong sa, p.2, Q.phu nhuan tel: (08) 3517 3073 Email: nguyenngocphuong@ adpress.com.vn

WORLD OF WATCHES THAILAND Mass connEct ltd.

6th Floor, indosuez house 152 Wireless road, lumpini, pathumwan bangkok 10330, thailand tel: +66 (0) 2 650 9956-7 Email: info@masscorporate.com

WORLD OF WATCHES PHILIPPINES c! publishing and MEdia group, inc.

88 corporate center, unit 2104, 141 valero corner sedeño streets, salcedo village, Makati. 1227 philippines tel: 6327283720 / 6327283721 Email: csc@c-magazine.com

worLD oF wAtCHES (wow) is a publication of HEArt mEDIA SDN BHD c10 2nd Floor, Mail box 334, Fahrenheit 88, 179 Jalan bukit bintang, 55100 kuala lumpur, Malaysia tel: (603) 2148 9923 Fax: (603) 2145 9923 info@heart-media.com www.heart-media.com worLD oF wAtCHES (wow) is a publication of heart MEdia sdn bhd. pp 12773/09/2012 (030495) & issn 1675-4999 printed by times offset (M) sdn bhd. no part of World of Watches (WoW) may be reproduced in any form or by any means without prior written consent from heart Media sdn bhd.

ImPortANt NotE all prices quoted in World oF WatchEs (WoW) serve only as a guide. they may be changed at the total discretion of retailers, distributors, brand principals and manufacturers without prior notice.

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE VALLﾃ右 DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WAT CHMA K E R S W E R E SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.

MILLENARY 4101 IN PINK GOLD. SELFWINDING MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT.

AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUE U29 ADORN FLOOR, STARHILL GALLERY TEL: (03) 2144 8639 AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM

Contributors

Watch SpecialiSt

Su Jia Xian

Watch collector/columniSt

Raphael P. Young

Jason Kwong

Jia Xian has had a keen interest in horology from a young age. Known throughout the watch industry, he is a prolific contributor to over a dozen publications across Asia, and writes about watches frequently on his own blog, watchesbySJX.com. His contribution to this issue of WOW is our regular Ask The Expert column.

Raphael is a consultant with many banking, insurance, and wealth management organisations in the region. He builds his collection of watches by buying a special piece after each consulting project as a personal milestone, as well as a significant reward for the hard labour and prolonged period of sleep deprivation. He found his passion in haute horology and believes there is no end in its pursuit.

A staff writer at WOW Malaysia at some point in his career, freelancer Jason now writes about all kinds of topics including watches, cars, entertainment, and luxury lifestyle. He believes that life is to be lived, not endured, so the self-confessed hedonist unabashedly spends large amounts of time reclined on a La-Z-Boy, watching NBA matches until a looming deadline wrestles the remote from his iron grip. Nevertheless, he is always happy to be summoned to the trenches and professes a deep – and at times disturbingly fanatical – love for beautiful watches.

Ruckdee Chotjinda

Aaron De Silva

Green Plastic Soldier

Currently a staff member of WOW Thailand, Ruckdee is a journalist who refused to write about watches until just a few years ago, when he became sure that he could expound the subject of his passion with absolute objectivity and integrity. He is always excited by watches with reserved designs and flawless symmetries and has a soft spot is for moon phase watches, which form a sizable part of his collection.

Blessed with an inherent sense of style, Aaron has been spotted in Milan and Tokyo with a stiff-blown Pompadour hairstyle and geeky ensemble comprising checked shirt, bowtie, jacket, denim jeans and brogues with loud colourful socks, He relishes life and writing about every experience.

Photography has taken this jovial shutterbug to more places than he cares to remember, but Singapore’s best watch and lifestyle photographer still prefers the comfort of his own home. The proud father of one enjoys nothing more than spending quality time with his wife and daughter, who is the darling subject of all of his cameras from DSLRs to Polaroids and iPhones.

editor/Watch collector

36

Writer/StyliSt

Writer

photographer

editor’s note

SubStance SpeakS For ItSelF

T

here are a lot of quotes about substance – what it is, what it isn’t, what it should be… The one that I agree with, to a somewhat greater degree, is by a Polish-born Jewish American author, whose works I’m admittedly not particularly familiar with because they’re primarily written in Yiddish. Isaac Bashevis Singer was remembered to have said, “The very essence of literature is the war between emotion and intellect, between life and death.

When literature becomes too intellectual – when it begins to ignore the passions, the emotions – it becomes sterile, silly, and actually without substance.” This coming from someone who has won a Nobel Prize in Literature, I guess it’s OK even if we were accused of reading too much into it.

Singer’s quote was about literature, but it could easily be applied to watches – maybe except the “life and death” part. What use is there for mechanical innovation and technical superiority if they do not incite emotion? Understand that the mechanical watch today must be an object of emotion because its functional role in society has all but expired. Therefore, irrespective of how technically complex a watch is, it must, above all, stir our hearts. Here at WOW, we believe in enjoying beautifully made timepieces, learning how they and their makers aspire to enthral, without being overly consumed by the nuts and bolts of everything. Watchmaking is a technical craft – it has been and always will be – but this doesn’t mean that technique is all there is to it.

To focus only on the technical aspect is to miss the forest for the trees.

Our cover story this issue is centred on the material endeavours of Italian watch company, Officine Panerai. We have always been impressed by this intrepid manufacture and we’ve followed it from the time when it was but a watch brand with cult status among collectors to its current position as a full manufacture with a bevy of in-house movements ranging from the basic to the complicated. Apart from movements, Panerai also pays a staggering amount of attention to design – must be all that Italian blood coursing through its veins. And its efforts are still paying off handsomely, for it is not unusual, it is

38

common even, to meet people who own several Panerai watches.

Shining the spotlight this year on the (some say underrated) Luminor Submersible, Panerai shows its mettle with materials innovation. Get the full story on page 72.

Of course, our Summer issue wouldn’t be complete without the 2015 Basel report. If the regular new product highlights and watchmaking features aren’t quite enough to sate your appetite for fine timepieces, then feast your eyes on our massive 60-page postBaselWorld report covering everything from the crème de la crème and special anniversary editions to the biggest trends in watchmaking and cool new watches to buy. But if you’re looking for something less novelty driven and more seasonally relevant, then turn to the Surf & Turf feature on page 216. We are big fans of Tudor’s new Pelagos with in-house manufactured movement, which has everything: style, substance, and best of all, an attractive price tag. Watches like the Pelagos give us hope yet that good watchmaking is not beyond the realm of the man on the street. Critics would certainly find something about it to lament and, yes, this watch is not perfect – but which one is? I’d go on the record to say this: perfection is overrated. There’s no such thing as a perfect watch, and this, I’m sure, even the great A.L. Breguet would agree.

Enjoy the issue.

celine Yap, Managing Editor

Publisher’s note

Strength In numberS

A

s we come to the middle of 2015, we are sure many readers out there are highly anticipating this particular issue of World of Watches. This is where we, without fail, feature the latest and the greatest in watches from BaselWorld. This year’s BaselWorld was a fine affair (as it never fails to be), but we must admit that the highlights from the announcements this time round were focused on smart or connected watches. Be sure to trawl our pages to find the stories related to this.

On a separate note, the world has finally accepted the adjustments on the Swiss franc, and we were pleased to notice that many brands had released watches that were designed to be more affordable, thus allowing more watch lovers to continue purchasing new watches this year. Of course, to help plan for your watch shopping, our team has also prepared several interesting themed stories for your perusal. They include a feature on watches celebrating their anniversaries this year as well as watches adorned with straps made from sporty or non-conventional materials. As the watches launched during SIHH and BaselWorld 2015 slowly make their way to our shores throughout the year, we hope to be by your side, helping you make informed decisions.

As I close this edition’s note, I would like to announce the arrival of our latest regional partner that is WOW Philippines. The Philippines edition joins the already established presence that we have in Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Thailand, Hong Kong, and Vietnam. With this, World of Watches (WOW) now numbers seven in this region, making us THE eminent and chosen magazine for watch lovers and enthusiasts. I am also pleased to say that we have been receiving many letters and queries from our readers. We definitely encourage more feedback from you so that we can serve your watch related needs better, and also continue to grow and improve. Please let us know what you think. Your continued support allows us to grow further and reach out to all watch fans.

Kelvin tan, Associate Publisher

40

MILLE MIGLIA GTS POWER CONTROL (168566-3001)

RACING IN STYLE.

WORLD SPONSOR AND OFFICIAL TIMEKEEPER SINCE 1988 OF THE MILLE MIGLIA RACE.

MIL L E MIGL I A CHOPARD BOUTIQUES Lot G 07, Suria KLCC, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur -Tel.+603-2166 3193 , 2166 8193 Lot 2.24.00 & Lot 3.26.00, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Lumpur -Tel.+603-2145 3611 , 2145 4611 Lot G33, Indulge Floor, Starhill Gallery, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur -Tel.+603-2148 3189 , 2148 3050

cov er watch

glowing terms

A new Panerai Luminor Submersible surfaces from the dark, using light and colours to enhance utility Words Jamie tan

T

he Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio PAM615 has numerous noteworthy features, beginning with its namesake complication, which uses a central minute totaliser. Reading the elapsed minutes is both easier as it’s done off a larger chapter ring, and more intuitive since a complete revolution marks 60 minutes, just like a normal minute hand. What’s more, the minute totaliser is a jumping one that advances instantaneously once every 60 seconds. This also improves legibility by keeping the hand centred on a marking until another full minute has elapsed.

As the Luminor 1950 collection has Panerai’s signature crown protection device, the pushers on the PAM 615 are on the case’s left.

The push-piece at 10 o’clock starts and stops the chronograph, while the one at eight o’clock controls the flyback function and resets the chronograph. Eagle-eyed observers will notice that the pushers are knurled – they can be screwed down to prevent accidental activation and to improve water resistance.

From just the chronograph’s features, it’s easy to see that

42

Panerai has set out to make a technically advanced watch in the PAM615. The timepiece’s P.9100 calibre also bears testament to this given its vertical clutch chronograph design with column wheel actuation, bi-directional winding system, and three-day power reserve.

The icing on the cake is the convenience afforded by the movement – the hour hand can be moved in one-hour increments independently of the minute hand, making time-setting a breeze.

Design-wise, the PAM615 retains the signature elements of the Submersible, including the case shape, crown protection device, and unidirectional rotating bezel. The timepiece, however, sports several contemporary elements that gives it a modern slant. The bold 47mm case, for one, is executed in brushed titanium for lightness, and topped with a black ceramic bezel insert for scratch resistance. Usage of modern, technical materials aside, it also plays with colours... especially in the dark. Two crucial elements glow blue – the bezel’s 12 o’clock marker and minute hand which together measure elapsed time underwater. The rest of the details on the dial give off a green luminescence instead, for legibility under any condition.

LIMITED EDITION OF 499 PIECES O.H.M. (ORIGINAL HISTORICAL MOVEMENT) AN0711C IS OBTAINED FROM UT 600 PRODUCED IN 1958: 127 COMPONENTS, FLAT HAIR-SPRING, LEVER ESCAPEMENT, 18 JEWELS, 36 HOUR POWER RESERVE AND 18,000 VIBRATIONS PER HOUR. THROUGH THE SKILLED HANDS OF THE MASTER WATCHMAKERS ARMAND NICOLET TRANSFORMS THESE PRECIOUS ORIGINAL HISTORICAL MOVEMENTS IN REAL WORKS OF ART ENHANCING THE EXTRAORDINARY BEAUTY OF THIS UNIQUE PRODUCT, A PIECE OF HISTORY ON YOUR WRIST.

WORLD OF WATCHES 2 BANGSAR VILLAGE 2, GF-16, NO.2, JALAN TELAWI 1, BANGSAR BARU, 59100 KUALA LUMPUR MALAYSIA PH: +603 2283 2966 - EMAIL: INFO_MALAYSIA@WORLDOFWATCHES2.COM

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Photo Panerai

SPUR OF THE MOMENT

First launches, exclusive insights, and leading stories on the world of watches

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News BY Jamie Tan

Pitch Perfect Portuguese fado singer Mariza wins the 2015 Glashütte Original Music Festival Award

Jacky Ickx and KarlFriedrich Scheufele

G

lashütte Original and the Dresden Music Festival have named fado singer Mariza as the Glashütte Original Music Festival Award recipient this year. Dresden Music Festival director Jan Vogler noted that Mariza is one of the leading fado singers in the world today, and cited the award as recognition for her contributions as an ambassador of the fado tradition. The award was presented to her in the Albertinum museum on 7 June, where she closed the 2015 edition of the Dresden Music Festival with a concert.

Like previous years, the award trophy was built by two apprentice watchmakers in Glashütte’s Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking.

Fado singer Mariza

Gran Turismo Chopard continues its longstanding partnership with the Mille Miglia

C

hopard reprised its role as sponsor and official timekeeper of the Mille Miglia, which took place from 14 to 17 May this year. Dubbed “the world’s most beautiful race”, the event saw 430 teams of classic and vintage cars competing over a 1,600km route from Brescia to Rome, with Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele himself participating. To commemorate the event, the brand has released the Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition watch, which will have a limited run of 1,000 pieces in steel and 100 pieces in rose gold. Chopard has been a partner of the Mille Miglia since 1988.

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The award trophy has a large flying tourbillon to symbolise the virtuosity of watchmakers

News

Talent Spotting

Hyeon Chung

Rado introduces its YoungStars programme aimed at fostering junior tennis players

R

ado further strengthened its ties to the tennis world in March when it introduced its YoungStars programme. Conceived to support up-andcoming players, the programme aims to create an international team of young talents that will eventually grow to become the next generation of tennis stars. The inaugural batch of four players consists of Karen Khachanov from Russia, Saisai Zheng from China, Jared Donaldson from America, and Hyeon Chung from South Korea. Age and nationality were evidently not considerations for Rado, who had selected the four pioneers for the programme based on their respective potentials. Further details of how the brand intends to support its partners would be revealed in the coming months.

Jared Donaldson

Karen Khachanov

Saisai Zheng

Red Alert Eddie Redmayne joins Omega as its international ambassador – the first such signing since 2013

B

ritish actor Eddie Redmayne has joined Omega as its international ambassador. The 33-yearold follows George Clooney, Nicole Kidman, and Cindy Crawford in the manufacture’s first signing since Rory Mcllroy in 2013. Redmayne won a Tony Award for Best Actor in 2013 for his performance in Red, and followed up with roles in Les Misérables and My Week With Marilyn. He won critical acclaim with his performance in The Theory of Everything, where he portrayed scientist Stephen Hawking. For this, he was awarded the Oscar, BAFTA, Golden Globe, and Screen Actors Guild Award for Best Actor.

Speaking of Redmayne’s appointment, Omega’s president Stephen Urquhart expressed his delight, and praised the former’s humility despite his success.

Redmayne echoed similar sentiments, and shared his excitement at joining Omega as he has had an Omega watch on his wrist for several years.

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Arctic Triumph Edox ambassador Christian Redl successfully completed his expedition to free dive at the North Pole

E

dox ambassador Christian “Iceman” Redl has become the first human to free dive under the ice at the geographic North Pole. Redl and his partner, Australian photographer Marcus Fillinger, had flown from Norway to Svalbard before making their way further north. The successful attempt was made on 13 April, with Redl making several dives down to 30m underwater.

Speaking about his experiences afterwards, Redl commented on the “endless visibility” that stretched hundreds of metres in every direction as he looked up while surfacing – a sight he’d never seen before anywhere else.

The feat coincides with the 50th anniversary of Edox’s Hydro-Sub watch, which has been modified with a MasterLock crown protection system according to Redl’s input. Edox was one of the main sponsors of the project.

Water Energy HYT announces its collaboration with Genevabased sailing team Alinghi

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YT has launched a partnership with sailing syndicate Alinghi, with the former to be presented as the official watch of the team. Alinghi has had much success in the past, including two America’s Cup victories in 2003 and 2007, as well as 2014’s Extreme Sailing Series.

Alinghi’s skipper Ernesto Bertarelli noted that HYT’s approach of using high-tech Swiss developments to challenge conventional watchmaking echoes Alinghi’s ambitions and values, and that the entire team was “delighted with the partnership”. HYT’s CEO Vincent Perriard echoed his sentiments, and drew parallels between HYT’s reinvention of measuring time with liquids, and Alinghi’s reinvention of sailing in GC32 racing.

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classic italian

Panerai opened its largest boutique in the heart of Hong Kong’s luxury shopping district Words jamie tan

The fourth floor of the boutique is a dedicated lounge for VIPs

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nstalling a clock on a building’s façade should be fairly straightforward. Move the project’s context to Hong Kong, however, and it becomes anything but. With typhoons pummelling the city every summer, a clock must be robust enough to weather hurricane-force winds, massive cantilevered hands notwithstanding. This detail did not elude Panerai when it was remodelling its Hong Kong flagship boutique at Canton road – the manufacture mounted a typhoon-proof clock sporting the iconic Panerai dial, for a timepiece that is as hardy as the watches it references. Panerai’s attention to detail here reveals just how much thought it put into the new boutique, which is evident from both the store’s interior and exterior.

Upping the ante

The previous version of Panerai’s boutique at Canton road was only a single unit on the ground floor of the same building. When two opportunities arose – first to acquire the adjacent unit, then the entire building itself – the manufacture went ahead and secured 11 floors’ worth of space in the heart of Hong Kong’s luxury shopping district. Five of them, with a combined floor area of 367sq m, were subsequently earmarked for remodelling into the current boutique, with an additional one serving as an office. The significant investments that Panerai has made here underscore Hong Kong’s importance as a market to the brand, both for its sophisticated clientele, and as a popular destination for mainland Chinese tourists.

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Tall display cases and vertical wood grain reference the boutique’s layout

To overcome the spatial limits on each floor, Panerai assigned individual levels to fulfilling specific functions, thus minimising human traffic and creating a sense of exclusivity. The visitor experience is further shaped by the boutique’s look and feel, which architect and designer Patricia Urquiola accomplished via its interior design The Canton road boutique isn’t just Panerai’s flagship in Hong Kong; given its total floor area it is actually the manufacture’s largest boutique globally. Ironically, space is a constraint here – like many other buildings in land scarce Hong Kong, the one Panerai acquired has a small footprint, and creates space by building upwards. As a result, the overall floor area may be large, but each level is spatially limited. The brand brilliantly turned this limitation on its head by assigning individual levels to fulfilling specific functions. Three floors function as sales galleries, while the VIP area and after-sales service centre take up an additional floor each. This allows visitors to be directed to specific floors depending on their needs, thus minimising human traffic and in turn creating a sense of exclusivity. Panerai has further enhanced this sense of privacy by isolating the interior of the boutique acoustically – despite the large windows that let in much natural light, visitors are insulated from the hustle and bustle of the street below.

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Retail design

‘Zoning’ of the floors aside, Panerai also sought to shape the visitor experience through the boutique’s look and feel. To that end, the brand roped in its frequent collaborator, spanish architect and designer Patricia Urquiola, who directed the boutique’s interior design. Italy-based Urquiola has worked with a diverse range of brands including BMW, dior, and Mandarin oriental, and counts a permanent exhibit in MoMA New York among her accolades.

With her previous work on Panerai’s New York, Paris, and Florence boutiques, Urquiola is no stranger to the brand. In the Canton road boutique, she heavily referenced Panerai’s maritime heritage through recurring design motifs and specific materials. For instance, display cases, sales counters, and even trays all share an elongated shape with rounded corners much like the interior of a ship. Wood and bronze – common materials on a seafaring vessel – feature heavily in the boutique as well. The former is used extensively in the furniture and panels lining the walls, while the latter adorn the lights within the boutique.

In a subtle nod to the boutique’s vertical layout, Urquiola used tall and narrow display windows and glass installations within the boutique to mirror the undulating aluminium glass panels on its exterior. of course, Panerai’s Italian origins have not been forgotten – calacatta luccicoso veined marble from Italy is used for the flooring, as well as some panelling work.

The sales gallery amply displays Patricia Urquiola’s play with shapes and materials

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marking the occasion

three limited edition timepieces accompany the Panerai canton Road boutique’s reopening

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o commemorate the reopening of the Canton road store, Panerai has released three boutique edition watches in limited runs of 100 pieces each. The timepieces are all from the Luminor 1950 collection; one of them is the Luminor 1950 3 days Acciaio, while the other two are the Luminor 1950 3 days Automatic Acciaio with different straps. The first watch houses the manual-winding P.3000 calibre movement, while the latter two are driven by the selfwinding P.9000 calibre movement. For the first time in the manufacture’s history, Panerai is customising timepieces with markings on the crown protection device. Each of these watches will have “Hong Kong” engraved on said part.

Luminor 1950 3 Days automatic acciaio Pam618

Luminor 1950 3 Days automatic acciaio Pam608

Luminor 1950 3 Days acciaio Pam606

MoveMent self-winding Panerai P.9000 with 72-hour power reserve

MoveMent self-winding Panerai P.9000 with 72-hour power reserve

MoveMent Manual-winding Panerai P.3000 with 72-hour power reserve

Case 44mm in steel, water resistant to 300m

Case 44mm in steel, water resistant to 300m

Case 47mm in steel, water resistant to 100m

strap Green canvas

strap Leather

strap Green canvas

priCe HK$58,400 (approx. rM28,270)

priCe HK$58,400 (approx. rM28,270)

priCe HK$69,900 (approx. rM33,830)

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The SwiSS ConneCTion Announced to the surprise of the world, the Horological Smartwatch is Frédérique Constant’s weapon of choice to compete in the battlefield of connected watches Words KELVIN TAN

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ith bated breath, the world anticipated the arrival of what was considered to be the first truly Swiss smartwatch, and in February 2015, Frédérique Constant did watch aficionados a solid by unveiling the Horological Smartwatch. The manufacture aptly selected Tokyo, distinguished by its capacity for technology and leading position on electronics, to host its announcement. The message was clear: Frédérique Constant would launch its first smartwatch this year. Co-founder Aletta Stas spared no time in sharing the details of its functions, but what was perhaps more significant about the new product is how faithful it remained to the aesthetics of a traditional Swiss timepiece.

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Get Smart

Indisputably, this is the most traditional looking smart watch launched to date. At first glance, one could mistake it as a typical, classical dress watch, but truthfully, it is a hothouse of cutting-edge high-tech components. Offering the best of both worlds, the Frédérique Constant Horological Smartwatch provides connoisseurs with a watch that has timeless design and is also digitally empowered. Its rose goldplated stainless steel case could waltz into any theatre or ballroom, accompanied by a silver dial and rose gold-plated hours, minutes, and seconds hands. Its Roman numerals and indices have also been plated in rose gold, and perhaps the most outstanding element on the dial

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would be the analogue date hand, in blued steel to be distinguished from the small seconds – but of course, blued steel is faultlessly classical. At 42mm, the Horological Smartwatch sits comfortably on most wrists, and is thus the perfect accoutrement for the well-dressed tech-savvy set.

To power this stylish smart timepiece, Frédérique Constant searched long and far until it found a valuable technology partner in Fullpower. Fullpower is famous for its innovation with the MotionX ecosystem created specifically for wearable technology. With them, Frédérique Constant is able to produce a smartwatch that could be seamlessly integrated into everyday life. For Frédérique Constant, Fullpower created a unique app to track and store the activities recorded by the watch, so that the wearer can easily access this data. This watch is also capable of bi-directional communication with iPhone and Android apps. What’s also unique is the app ensures that such captured data is presented in a manner that is easy to understand

and easily translatable to further actions in order to improve the wearer’s daily habits, overall health, and quality of life.

In addition to the MotionX activity tracking, there are also sleeptracker sleep monitoring, sleep cycle alarms, get-active alerts, and adaptive coaching functions, as well as MotionX cloud backup and restore. Best of all, unlike a fully digital smartwatches like the Apple Watch, the Horological Smartwatch by Frédérique Constant has a battery life of over two years, and thus needs no daily charging.

Undoubtedly, one of the most attractive offerings in the connected watch arena thus far, Frédérique Constant’s Horological Smartwatch is indeed a bridge between Silicon Valley and Swiss watchmaking. The Swiss manufacture had also demonstrated its belief in this category of timepieces by teaming up with Fullpower Technologies, Inc. to set up Manufacture Modules Technologies Sàrl, a company that aims to bring the MotionX-365 Horological Smartwatch Open Platform to the Swiss watch industry.

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smart talk

Ceo of Frédérique Constant, Peter Stas, elaborates on the strategy behind the manufacture’s new horological Smartwatch

How important was it for you to produce a smartwatch that looks like a Swiss watch?

Extremely. Our first target is to ensure that our product is ultimately a beautiful Swiss watch, one that is classic and fitting with our DNA. We really want to see the Horological Smartwatch as a replacement for sport watches. We believe we have achieved this, but of course, we want it to grow further. You can say that ours is the first one, and we want to make it special. We want to ensure that connected functions are going to be continuously added into the watch movement.

Were there any problems in getting the Swiss Made label?

No, because the internals are Swiss made. We made the timepiece in Switzerland and construction of the movement is done by us in Geneva. Even the assembly is done in Switzerland. We have double-checked and believe we have achieved Swiss Made standards.

How did you find your partner to create this watch?

We did it by Internet search, by calling, and by trying to really understand the field. Then, I found Fullpower.

They were already very well known in Silicon Valley and very successful in making all kinds of wearable technology for companies like Jawbone and Nike. So I got in contact with its founder and we spoke, probably about 100 hours in total on the phone. Thousands of emails went between our development teams and the CEOs at the highest level. We knew that for this joint venture to succeed, we must have a really close relationship. We realise that if we want to breakthrough, we will need more IT application brands to develop for the Horological Smartwatch‘s integration.

How did you manage to achieve the remarkable two years of battery life on the watch?

That is really the magic of the proprietary technology of our partner Fullpower, with their MotionX system and the way it communicates between all the elements including the applications, the phone and the watch. Also it’s with the kind of technology protocols they have and their

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experience. They have been doing this for six years with over 10 million pieces in the market. So they have really learnt how people behave and how they work with wearables. All that is put into this patented technology.

How would you describe the reaction from the market?

Very positive! We have already sold thousands of pieces even before the fair began. The last I checked the sales reports for Frédérique Constant, the five best performing products were all five of the Horological Smartwatch models. We have beautiful products and the products are working. We have a solid partner for the future. We have a whole new system for the future, and we also have to consider the after sales service and reliability of our products. Now, all we have to do is sell the products.

What other methods would you use to differentiate your product from that of other brands?

The number one aim now is the integration of our watches with the technology. As it is, we can differentiate ourselves immediately because Fullpower has over 100 million recordings of days and nights from their users. This is an enormous body of experience.

They also have the analysis behind that data and knowledge of what can be done with that. Nobody can copy that and even if somebody else starts collecting data right now, they would still have to build up the

database. When we sent our prototype to them in California, they put it on robots to simulate natural movement and they began to measure the output from their robotic sensors. Then, they calibrate our watches and tweak their technology algorithms to ensure accuracy. We believe this is an important step.

Our product will also have input from the medical field.

At the moment, we have new and updated versions of applications for the watch every two days.

Is the firmware of the Smartwatch updateable wirelessly?

Yes it is. We will work with Fullpower to ensure that the operating system is always capable of this. Fullpower is in charge of ensuring that the latest updates are stored in the cloud so that users are able to download the latest firmware versions.

Is it possible to add more watch complications on this new platform?

Definitely! You will see that we can have all kinds of new implementations. We are already working the roadmap including new features in the form of applications.

At the same time, we are also working on the usage of the watch, which includes how to display relevant information. There really are a lot of things to be done.

How and when did the idea of the Smartwatch come about?

It was three years ago at our Alpina brand. As Alpina is tied to mountain climbing, one of the ideas that came up was to have an altimeter on the watch. I researched on movements with such functions, but there was not many in the market. At the time, we did not have the capabilities to create one in-house. Then, about two years ago, the first announcement came out about the Android Wear OS. We had our development team in Europe look at it. It was expensive to implement and we really had to do it from scratch. I did not feel comfortable at the time. Firstly, the case shape was not right. It did not have any hands, and battery consumption was an issue. But soon, we started to see this project coming to shape. We found that we could display connected information on the dial, and since then, everything started to go very fast until today.

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Saxon TradiTion

The manufacture Glash端tte Original is a crucible of fine German watchmaking, and its watches are the essence within Words Celine Yap

The three-quarter plate is archetypal of German watchmaking

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The Glashütte original manufacture in saxony, Germany

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ocated in the state of Saxony in Germany, Glashütte is a relatively quiet place; there are just over 7,000 residents in the area, which measures about 96sq km. This means there are only around 72 people per square kilometre. It may be far from a bustling metropolis, but the stillness is perfect for the number one industry in this quaint, picturesque township: Watchmaking. Indeed, unlike Switzerland where hamlets of watch companies pepper the country, Germany’s watch manufactures are concentrated in Glashütte. Home to some of the world’s most revered brands, Glashütte has a unique watchmaking history – one that is deeply intertwined with the country’s own tumultuous past – and the company that most accurately represents this is the aptly named Glashütte Original.

A UniqUe History

It is no overstatement to say that Glashütte Original is a consolidation of some of the best in German watchmaking. Without leafing through too much ancient history, archival accounts confirm that Glashütte Original had once been a consortium of several different firms in the region, including the best and brightest of the time. In 1951, under the rule of the German Democratic Republic, Glashütte’s watchmaking and precision mechanics industry was nationalised and this consortium was named VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe.

Translating to the state-owned watch companies of Glashütte, it lasted 39 years until the reunification of Germany in 1990, and VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe was then changed to Glashütte Uhrenbetrieb GmbH to reflect the newly privatised status of the company. Note, also, that it is no longer a consortium, but rather, a single entity.

One of the first things the company did was to introduce a line of luxury watches branded Glashütte Original.

This label, however, was not completely new. In the past, watchmakers from this region have been known to engrave these words on dials of their clocks and watches to signify their prestigious place of origin.

Apart from its classical German watchmaking style, Glashütte Original today distinguishes itself from other luxury watch companies by its inventive spirit

inventive spirit

Apart from its classical German watchmaking style underscored by the use of the three-quarter plate, blued screws with gold chatons, and the classical Glashütte ribbing decoration, Glashütte Original today distinguishes itself from other luxury watch companies by its inventive spirit. Its two most unique product attributes are the duplex swan neck fine adjustment mechanism and the patented Panorama large date display. Introduced

Another classical Glashütte original hallmark is the duplex swan neck regulator

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Assembly of movements take place in these specialist ateliers where watchmakers work undisturbed Balance assembly, jewel setting, rotor assembly, and assembly of the cannon pinion are all classified T0

Glash端tte original makes components using only machining and milling techniques; it does not make parts by stamping Given its filigree form, the instantly recognisable swan neck regulator is extremely challenging to produce

Polished and chamfered by hand, it is an unmistakeable hallmark of Glash端tte original

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Individual components of the duplex swan neck regulator

Bevelling by hand is done consistently with the help of a special machine designed and used only at Glashütte original

between the mid- to late-1990s, it demonstrates the sophisticated technical ability of its watchmakers and engineers, to say nothing yet of its creative designers and skilled craftsmen and women. Tracing the products back to its early years reveals a strong sense of aesthetic continuity that has been jolted to life by a contemporary touch.

The manufacture here focuses only on movement production, as dials and cases come from an affiliated company in Pforzheim, near the German Black Forest. According to Ulrike Kranz, Glashütte Original’s head of public relations, parts are either milled by spark erosion or precision cut by CNC machines – Glashütte Original does not make parts by stamping. Spark erosion and CNC machining are optimal production methods for complex parts, particularly filigree components like the spring of the swan neck fine adjustment mechanism, which is milled to within two-micron precision.

Not only does it produce movement components like plates, bridges, and wheels, Glashütte Original also makes its own tools and would go so far as to invent specific machines if it meant improving the quality of its movements. Case in point, the manufacture uses a special machine designed in-house to help yield consistently even bevels.

Another unique attribute of Glashütte Original’s watches is the Panorama date. Patented by the manufacture, this is the only big date mechanism in the industry that has both discs on the same plane offering a crisp, clear date display. This sounds like a minute detail, but isn’t luxury watchmaking, ultimately, all about the details? Composed

The patented Panorama date display is also unique to Glashütte original

one of nine different components of the Panorama date module

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Milling a component to +/- two microns

decorating a main plate with perlage

Laser engraving the main plate with the insignia of the manufacture

Final assembly of the in-house movement Calibre 61

screws are blued in the manufacture by hand and individually A beautifully hand engraved balance bridge

sunburst decoration on a gear wheel

Glashütte original practises a flat polishing technique using tin

of nine key parts, the disc for the ones from zero to nine is driven by a kinked 10-toothed wheel and that for the tenths from zero to three, a Maltese cross.

The manufacture also houses the usual suspects: A laboratory for electroplating, a pre-assembly workshop, final assembly workshop, finishing and decoration studios, haute horlogerie atelier, and a restoration department. Yet one of the most fascinating aspects of Glashütte Original is a tiny, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it component. In accordance with Saxony watchmaking tradition, the movements are assembled with blued screws and gold chatons. Instead of automating the process, Glashütte Original manually blues all its blued screws.

Each and every screw is carefully placed on a sintering iron and it turns from silver to yellow and then brown, followed by purple and finally blue. Experience of the operator, however, is paramount here, as the screws should be taken off the iron neither too early nor too late.

According to Kranz, overheated screws cannot be used because the inherent properties of the material would have been altered.

CHerisHing tHe pAst

Just a short distance from the Glashütte Original manufacture is the German watchmaking museum and watchmaking academy. Opened in 2008, this 1,000-sq m historical building is the original site of the first watchmaking school in Glashütte and now displays more than 400 unique exhibits over two floors. Telling the story of German – 62

more precisely, Saxony – watchmaking is no easy feat considering it stretches back to the early 19th century and that this industry underwent some tumultuous times. The museum, thus, engages visitors with the help of modern technology. Whether it is to explain watchmaking terminology or to re-enact scenes from the past, a host of multimedia tools were used to tell the most accurate account.

The museum is composed of Historical Rooms, which establish the chronological context, and Time Rooms, which are focused on the intricacies of watchmaking. In particular, the museum, as well as Glashütte Original, honours the contributions of four prominent figures who have contributed to the industry in their own ways: Ferdinand Adolph Lange (the visionary), Julius Assmann (the technical genius), Adolf Schneider (the entrepreneur), and Moritz Grossmann (the teacher). These were the brilliant minds that laid the foundation of watchmaking in Saxony. Going through the rooms, visitors get a full account of the ups and downs of watchmaking in this small town, from the heydays to the trying times during World War II, and finally into the new millennium.

Glashütte Original’s unique story is inextricably linked to the history of Saxony, and indeed, Germany. This sterling manufacture today is an amalgamation of dozens of milestones, each one as symbolic and effectual as the next. A whole that is unquestionably greater than the sum of its parts, Glashütte Original is German watchmaking at its very purest.

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The German watchmaking museum is also a watchmaking school

The building is a historical one preserved as faithfully as possible

New-age technology is used to help tell the story of traditional watchmaking

Whether to explain watchmaking terminology or to re-enact scenes from the past, the German watchmaking museum and academy uses a mix of historical artifacts and multimedia tools to tell the most accurate account Archives on display date back to the formative years of dresden watchmaking

Timepieces made during the second World War are also on display

Glash端tte was also a town full of tool makers for watchmaking

Historical tools and instruments give students an idea of what watchmaking was like in the early years

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make it pop

Add some colour to your watch collection – luxury doesn’t always have to be understated Words JAmie tAn PhotograPhy rAymond lee art direction and styling tok Wei lun

Just A HINt

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his is where the adage that less is more holds sway. With the right hue and application, a dash of colour is sometimes all that is necessary, whether to demarcate different functions or to highlight specific parts of a watch.

rAdo hyPerchrome AutomAtic chronogrAPh court collection Blue-on-black isn’t the best combination for legibility, since the former doesn’t pop on the latter. Rado overcame this limitation on the Hyperchrome Automatic Chronograph Court Collection by finishing the watch’s dial with a subtle sunray texture, thus accentuating the contrast between the two colours. Blue wasn’t chosen frivolously – it represents the hard court surface tennis is played on, just like how its siblings’ orange and green accents mirror clay and grass courts respectively. An ETA 28942 chronograph movement drives the watch, encased in a monobloc black ceramic case with stainless steel inserts. (RM10,760)

AudemArs Piguet royAl oAk offshore diver This iteration of the Royal Oak Offshore Diver has a utilitarian slant that reinforces the collection’s tool watch DNA, beginning with a scratch-resistant case and bezel of black ceramic. A matching black dial maintains the serious vibes, while also adding a touch of class with its méga tapisserie guilloché – an Audemars Piguet signature. The crucial parts that divers rely on underwater have been highlighted orange here – the running second hand indicates that the watch is working, while the minute hand and 15-minute section of the inner bezel mark elapsed time underwater. (Price unavailable) 64

Breitling chronomAt 44 rAven Despite having a black dial encased in Breitling’s “black steel” case, the Chronomat 44 Raven is far from a stealthy watch. That isn’t a concern anyway, since the Raven is a pilot chronograph, which places a far higher premium on legibility.

The latter is achieved by rendering the watch’s hands, indexes, bezel markings, and inner flange in bright orange, to make telling the time and using the chronograph a cinch. Of course, due attention has been paid to accuracy – the Raven packs Breitling’s chronometergrade Calibre 01. (RM33,380)

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rAymond Weil freelAncer This self-winding chronograph maintains the classic, understated styling that’s central to Raymond Weil’s DNA, but asserts its masculine and sporty side with subtle detailing. Note the watch’s industrial look with the screw bolting down the small seconds sub-dial, or the altimeter-esque date window that recalls a flight instrument panel. Red highlights set against a black and steel dial complete the package – both visually and functionally – by distinguishing the chronograph function from the rest of the watch, right down to the tachymeter’s markings. (RM11,900)

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victorinox i.n.o.x.

Built to mark the 130th anniversary of Victorinox, the I.N.O.X. (inox is French for stainless steel) is the timekeeping counterpart to the Swiss Army knives the brand manufactures, and meant to complement it as a “companion for life”. To that end, the watch had to pass a battery of 130 tests, including spending two hours in a washing machine and being driven over by a 64-ton tank. Numerous little details contribute to the watch’s toughness, from the slightly recessed sapphire crystal to having stamped – not applied – indexes. A simple, no-nonsense dial design emphasises the watch’s pedigree, with a blue dial and matching strap complementing this. (Price unavailable)

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DIAL It uP

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here’s nothing subtle about flooding the dial with a single vivid hue. Watches like these aren’t just easily recognised at a distance – they’re also bold statements that will be visible from across the room. Only the confident need apply.

luminox scott cAssell uvP sPeciAl edition Luminox’s partnership with Scott Cassell continues with the UVP Special Edition. Part of this watch’s sales proceeds will go towards funding UVP (Undersea Voyager Project), a non-profit organisation founded by Cassell that is dedicated to ocean health. The watch’s 44mm case is made of carbonreinforced polycarbonate, which imparts an excellent strength-to-weight ratio. A yellow dial with black hands and indices impart legibility, and a matching strap completes the look. (RM1,653.60)

JeAnrichArd AeroscoPe ArsenAl Arsenal Football Club’s fans can wear their hearts proudly on their wrists by donning the Aeroscope Arsenal, its official watch. The timepiece features the Gunners’ cannon in lieu of a hand for its small seconds sub-dial, and uses the club’s colour liberally. Red is an extremely striking colour in and of itself.

When paired with black, it pops even more to grab one’s attention. From the honeycombed dial to the tachymeter markings on the bezel to the pushers’ detailing, the colour ensures the watch’s prominence. (Price unavailable)

seiko AutomAtic divers WAtch This is the revised version of the Seiko diver watch commonly (and reverently) referred to as the Orange Monster. The “second generation Orange Monster” updates the original in several areas, including new shark-tooth shaped indexes and a simplified chapter ring. Its 4R36 movement is arguably the biggest change – unlike the original, the new watch can now be both hacked and hand-wound. The new calibre retains Seiko’s bidirectional Magic Lever winding system for efficiency though. Despite the availability of other colourways for the watch, Seiko enthusiasts still consider the Orange Monster a rite of passage.

Clearly, not all colours are created equal. (Price unavailable) 67

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MIX & MAtCH

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layful. Technical. Rebellious. Whimsical. Avant-garde. The design approaches in response to having a larger palette are as varied as the colours themselves. Results too, run the gamut from what are literally art pieces to serious, sporty watches.

huBlot clAssic fusion enAmel Britto Brazilian artist Romero Britto is known for his colourful works melding Cubism, pop art, and graffiti painting. His partnership with Hublot is of little wonder then, given the latter’s penchant for the “art of fusion”. The Classic Fusion Enamel Britto’s dial reproduces one of Britto’s artworks in miniature via grand feu enamel, with the 45mm Classic Fusion case in black ceramic serving as the painting’s frame. This timepiece is a 50-piece limited edition. (RM142,000)

romAin Jerome PAc-mAn level ii 40 colours The landmark arcade game returns! This homage to Pac-Man comes complete with eight-bit renderings of the game’s titular character, his adversary ghosts, and the strawberry power-ups needed to defeat them. Although the background is a drab monotone, no attention to detail has been spared – the “stage” is three-layered, and each one has either been bead-blasted or straight-grained to contrast with the lacquered sprites mounted on the dial. Housed in a 40mm case, this reference has a limited run of just 20 pieces. (RM67,600) AlexAnder shorokhoff miss AvAntgArde Words like “edgy” or “free-spirited” cannot adequately describe the Miss Avantgarde, what with its loud and flashy dial that uses colour with seemingly no pattern. There is a method to Alexander Shorokhoff’s madness though. The time can actually be read easily as each design element is confined to a specific section of the watch. Colours have also been compartmentalised to avoid an overly busy dial, while the hands are white for maximum contrast. (Price unavailable) 68

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grAhAm chronofighter oversize gmt The Chronofighter Oversize GMT has a busy dial with red, blue, and white accents on a background of black. This is mirrored on the watch’s exterior, with its massive 47mm case sporting an equally colourful combination of steel, red gold, and black PVD surfaces. Interestingly, the chronograph, large date, and GMT complications haven’t been sorted by colour.

Instead, every part of the watch takes on its specific hues for maximum contrast – note how the bezel uses red gold against blue while the main dial has white against black instead. (Price unavailable)

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hyt h1 Azo ProJect No, it isn’t kryptonite. The H1 Azo Project’s florescent case is made of azo polyepoxide, a resin with exceptional scratchproof properties despite being much lighter than comparable materials like steel. Its colour is, of course, a perfect match for the liquids encased in the watch’s fluid module – one has been coloured a darker shade of green, while the other remains transparent. The hours are then read off the tip of what looks like an advancing column of liquid. (RM292,030)

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MAterIAL PLAy

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aints and coatings aren’t the be all and end all for achieving colours that pop in a watch.

Materials that are inherently brightly coloured can do the same, and lend their unique textures to boot. Stones, glass, and even liquids? Bring them all on.

hermès ArceAu millefiori From straw marquetry to Japanese miniature painting on porcelain, Hermès has incorporated various crafts into watchmaking. The Arceau Millefiori focuses on glass art, specifically millefiori (a thousand flowers), where coloured crystal canes are arranged to form various motifs before being sealed with transparent crystal. The technique is adapted here by cutting the finished product into thin slices and using them as dials. (RM158,400)

ulysse nArdin mArine PerPetuAl At first sight, the blue sapphires on the bezel are immediately apparent, and serve as the highlight of the Marine Perpetual. Upon closer inspection, however, the bezel itself is revealed to be atypical – it’s made of rubber, and the sapphires are set directly into it. The technique, dubbed “soft stone in the sky”, is revolutionary for setting gems in a soft material, and parallels the manufacture’s perpetual calendar movement, which allows forward and backward adjustments via just the crown. (RM161,700)

Bell & ross Br 03 red rAdAr Bell & Ross’s timepieces are inspired by cockpit instruments, but said instruments were never just confined to dials with hands and indexes. One outlier was the BR 03 Red Radar, which took the world by storm upon its release, and remains frequently cited as a milestone product for the brand. In lieu of hands, three black concentric discs are mounted to the movement, with a red mineral glass crystal sealing the watch. The result?

A watch that displays the time like a radar screen. (RM18,700) 71

R EPORTS | Cover story

Pure SubStance Where before, it was one of Panerai’s best-kept secrets, today the Submersible is the manufacture’s ultra-versatile and de facto dive icon WordS Celine Yap PhotograPhy green plastiC soldier

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Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days Automatic PAM616

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here was a time when the words radiomir and Luminor referred not to the two prominent watch families of Panerai, but actual luminescent substances used by the watch company to allow its then biggest customer to read the time in the dark. the prevailing story goes that between the early 1900s and the 1940s, Panerai had been appointed the official supplier of timekeeping and measurement instruments to the royal Italian Navy, thus formulating its rich military heritage so dearly loved by watch enthusiasts today.

Indeed, it was a definitive period for Panerai, for landing a big client like the royal Italian Navy gave it the resources and enabled the manufacture to push further on research and development. this led to the eventual discovery that a combination of zinc sulphide and radium bromide resulted in a luminescent substance with unprecedented brightness. Panerai named it radiomir. years later in 1949, Panerai added tritium to the mix and yielded an improved version of radiomir. this new substance, named Luminor, spawned a completely new series of watches identified not only by their unrivalled luminescence, but also a unique crown protector intended to keep the watch watertight. over the decades, Panerai has cultivated a unique dNa, one that is shared fairly equally between the radiomir and Luminor collections.

Every watch in its product line is either a radiomir or a Luminor.

So what, then, of the Submersible, or to put it more accurately, the Luminor Submersible?

Way back When For the most part, the Submersible ranks third in the minds of most Panerai enthusiasts, but that’s also because up until recent years, Panerai really only has two watches, three if you would count the Submersible as a line on its own. to understand the Submersible, it is essential to go back in time and evaluate the moment when two entities unite in a common quest. In the 1950s, the royal Italian Navy referred Panerai to the royal Egyptian Navy as a gesture of goodwill among military forces around the Mediterranean. at first, Panerai offered the royal Egyptian Navy a radiomir model ref. 6154 that displayed time clearly with luminescent hands and oversized numerals on a simple, unfettered dial. the Egyptians

The legendary Ref. 6154 today nicknamed Egiziano Piccolo, which uses a Rolex movement (right)

A titanium dive watch prototype Panerai made for the Royal Egyptian Navy

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tried it out, but subsequently wanted more from the watch and asked Panerai for something more robust, which prompted Panerai to produce an all-new model that had an oversized three-part case in specially treated steel with a unidirectional bezel. this model is now known as the gPF 2/56 Egiziano grosso, or Big Egiziano, while the earlier radiomir piece goes by Egiziano Piccolo, or Small Egiziano.

Both watches are very rare antiques today, only occasionally spotted at rare watches auctions. as a matter of fact, an Egiziano Piccolo was sold at a Christie’s Important Watches Sale for US$326,500 including buyer’s premium in 2012. gPF 2/56 Egiziano grosso was the first Panerai watch that had a turning bezel. It was also the first full underwater watch case made

by Panerai as opposed to an external party for Panerai. this watch set the aesthetic for all Luminor Submersible models today.

the Modern era after the War and during the Quartz Crisis, Panerai, like every other watch company, went through a bit of a lull until 1997 when it was acquired by the Compagnie Financière richemont, at that time known as the Vendôme Luxury group. Swiftly, Panerai awakened from its slumber and once again began producing military inspired watches, but this time for a luxury market. Popularised by action star Sylvester Stallone, several models were re-introduced, including a modern interpretation of the Big Egiziano in 1998, which has been renamed Luminor Submersible. No longer in production today, it was made in two variations – polished steel (PaM024) and brushed titanium (PaM025). In the years that followed, Panerai continually evolved the Luminor Submersible.

Up to 11 variations were introduced before the Submersible arrived at its next milestone. the year 2009 saw the first Submersible with an in-house manufactured movement. this watch, Luminor 1950 Submersible 3 days automatic PaM305, was paired with the new state-of-the-art Calibre P.9000. yet aesthetically, it remained staunchly faithful to the PaM024. despite its supersized 47mm proportions, PaM305 is a breeze on the wrist thanks to its lightweight, but sturdy titanium case.

Simultaneously, a limited edition model was also released, but

Cover story | R EPORTS

Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Titanio PAM305

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Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Bronzo PAM382

equipped with a different movement. the radiomir Egiziano PaM341 observed all of the key hallmarks of the historical Big Egiziano, including a black sandwich dial labelled radiomir, ecru lume, and its eight-day power reserve, but instead of an angelus 240 movement, it was powered by an in-house Calibre P.2002/7. In addition, instead of radiomir or tritium, the watch comes with Super-LumiNova. admittedly, this 60mm watch isn’t made for everyday wear, but that’s hardly the point of owning a PaM341.

Panerai’s exploits with the Submersible continued steadily and reached a tipping point in 2011 when it released what was, arguably, its most successful Submersible model of all time: the Bronzo. a watch that looks as macho as it sounds, PaM382 set the market on a massive buying frenzy and all 1,000 pieces were sold out within days of its launch. one could easily see why; PaM382 was everything a Panerai aficionado hankered after. Its strapping 47mm case crafted in brushed bronze exuded a rugged, almost weatherworn, appeal that renders the Submariner’s nautical roots instantly palpable. Paired with a sober green dial and a lightly distressed leather strap, the watch’s most unique attribute is the anticipation that its case will gain a warm patina over time, since bronze has the tendency to oxidise organically.

Encouraged by the success of PaM382, Panerai followed up with another bronze model in 2013, PaM507, which bore all the winning traits of its predecessor plus a power reserve indicator for good measure.

It would appear that 2013 was a remarkably significant year for the Submersible. In addition to the Bronzo PaM507, three other outstanding models met the public’s eye: Luminor Submersible 1950 3 days automatic Ceramica PaM508, Luminor Submersible 1950 2500m 3 days automatic PaM364, and Luminor Submersible 76

amagnetic 3 days automatic PaM389. all of them came equipped with the in-house Calibre P.9000, but that’s right about where the similarities end.

Where the Bronzo was unique in that it would evolve over time, PaM508 was the exact opposite, as its full black ceramic case remains perfectly pristine through the years. Ceramic’s natural qualities include a strong resistance to scratches and a lightweight construct, plus it is also hypoallergenic. aficionados are also drawn to the material’s homogeneity and rich colouration, which is markedly different from surface treatments like black PVd. PaM364, on the other hand, took a more extreme turn. given the manufacture’s strong historical ties with military naval units, all Panerai watches are capable of great depths, but none more so than PaM364, which remains watertight to a bone-crushing 2,500m. one can only imagine the immense pressure faced by a watch when subjected to these conditions. truly, this is a timepiece built to withstand great adversity.

Concluding the roll call is the Luminor Submersible amagnetic 3 days automatic PaM389 and its anti-magnetic case construction – a first for Panerai. Where the industry average for anti-magnetism is 4,800 a/m (amperes per metre, the international unit measuring strength of magnetic fields) PaM389 goes way further, raising the limit to a mind-numbing 40,000 a/m, equivalent to four gauss. thanks to a robust soft iron case inside, here’s a watch that could go through an X-ray machine and still keep good time, so the machines in everyday life – like copiers, computers, cell phones, and simple magnets – have no effect on the precision of the movement inside. at the same time, PaM389 proffers a ceramic bezel with inlaid five-minute indices (also a first for Panerai) to complement its highly technical nature.

Cover story | R EPORTS

Radiomir Egiziano PAM341 Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Ceramico PAM508

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neW Wave Panerai has undoubtedly evolved the Submersible with a host of different materials and faculties, but the idea pool is by no means depleted as its latest line-up proves. and with such landmark new models as the Carbotech and two chronograph pieces, Panerai’s Luminor Submersible no longer remains an impassioned collector’s secret, rather, an autonomous pillar of this august Italian-Swiss manufacture. In 2015, a new breed of Submersibles has emerged, showcasing Panerai’s knack for innovation and yen for adventure.

Equipped with a flyback chronograph movement, the two new Luminor Submersibles (PaM614 and PaM615) are major milestones for the collection. Not that there hasn’t ever been a Submersible with this function, though. In 2004, Panerai had already released the Luminor Submersible Chrono 1000m PaM187. the key difference here relates to the choice of movement. PaM187 ran on Calibre oP XII, which is essentially a Valjoux Calibre 7753. Correspondingly, the watch was a three-counter chronograph and had two pushers flanking the crown protector for start, stop, and reset. Without discrediting the legitimacy of this piece, it remains fair to opine that a tri-compax layout impedes with one of Panerai’s most classic traits: dial simplicity. the new chronograph models, however, offers this sporty function while respecting the manufacture’s design codes. this was achieved through long-term planning and sheer tenacity because Panerai as a manufacture had been industriously designing and producing its own movements since 2007, among them the chronograph Calibre P.9100, which was introduced in 2013. In many ways, it was imperative that Panerai create a unique in-house chronograph movement if it wanted to preserve its classical aesthetic. having its own movement also allows for greater manoeuvrability when it comes to product development. today, Panerai’s portfolio of in-house movements includes the P.2000, P.3000, P.4000, and P.9000 families. the main characteristics of Calibre P.9100 is that it has chronograph activators on the left side, a flyback function, and most importantly, co-axial chronograph seconds and minutes hands. repositioning the chronograph buttons opposite the crown provides

Ceramic insert in the bezel

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visual balance without compromising on functionality while utilising co-axial chronograph seconds and minutes hands eradicates the need for a 30-minute counter altogether. additionally, this movement proffers a return-to-zero function, so time can be adjusted to the nearest second.

When the chronograph is dormant, both chronograph seconds (in blue) and minutes (rhodium-plated) hands are perfectly aligned at 12 o’clock. at the push of a button, they come to life instantaneously, and where the blue hand completes one rotation every minute, the rhodium-plated one advances once every minute. Compared to subdials, this mechanism allows for a display of elapsed time that is much more legible. there are, however, several distinguishing factors between PaM614 and PaM615. Foremost is the appearance of a date aperture in the former, and there is a 12-hour counter in the latter, where the date aperture should have been. Most prominently, PaM615 is equipped with a ceramic bezel. yet, there remains one final surprise – when the lights go out, these models glow with a fierce luminosity that reminds one of Panerai’s rich exploits with night vision technology.

More interestingly, the numerals, indices, and hands glow green, while two elements glow blue – the minutes hand and the bezel’s pre-select marker. this is meant to assist the diver in differentiating between bottom time indication and the other dial elements, but there’s no denying the cool factor it adds. another touch of blue can be found in the two oP logos on the corrugated rubber strap. this would be the first time Panerai has released straps with blue oP logos.

When the lightS go out, theSe ModelS gloW With a fierce luMinoSity that reMindS one of Panerai’S rich exPloitS With night viSion technology

PAM389 has an amagnetic case

Cover story | R EPORTS

Luminor Submersible Amagnetic 3 Days Titanio PAM389

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Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio PAM615 (left) and PAM614

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dark Matter Materials innovation has been a constant point of obsession for Panerai. In the past, it was night vision technology that drove the manufacture to break new grounds. these days, it is fixated on case materials. Some collectors might remember that Panerai released a few special pieces made with its then-new composite material in 2010, but with this year’s star highlight, Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 days automatic PaM616, the manufacture has undoubtedly outdone itself.

In introducing, for the first time, a Submersible crafted out of carbon fibre, Panerai shows a completely different side of the collection. Carbotech, however, is no ordinary carbon fibre material. It is a composite material based on carbon fibre, but instead of the usual checked surface texture, there is a moiré pattern caused by alternating the layers of carbon fibre sheets. according to Panerai, the carbon fibres used are very long so as to ensure great aesthetic uniformity. In addition, the sheets are arranged in a spiral so that they are all set at different angles to one another. this structure boosts the mechanical properties of Carbotech, making it more robust compared to other exotic materials like ceramic or titanium. Essentially, Carbotech is lighter than both ceramic and titanium, more resistant to scratches, hypoallergenic, and also corrosion resistant.

What distinguishes Carbotech from simply carbon fibre, forged carbon, or even NtPt carbon is the production process (in the case of carbon fibre and forged carbon) and the use of polyether ether ketone (PEEK) as a binding agent (in the case of NtPt carbon). PEEK

is a high-end polymer that holds all the carbon fibre sheets together, making it even stronger and more durable. aesthetically, it bears much similarity to NtPt carbon, but Panerai made sure to highlight this unique feature by printing the word boldly in blue on the dial, just like the small seconds sub-dial. Contrasted against the rich black dial studded with sand-coloured applied indices, painted numerals, and semi-skeletonised hands, the nuances of Carbotech case, bezel, crown protector, and lever become more apparent. the strap in corrugated rubber is also accented with the oP logo in blue. on the back, though, the watch features a black treated titanium screw-down case back that is engraved with additional details dear to every Panerai collector: “Florence 1860” and an image of an SLC slow speed torpedo, known in Italian as siluro a lenta corsa, and nicknamed maiale or pig (because they were so slow). Inside, the watch moves on Panerai’s in-house produced self-winding Calibre P.9000 with threeday power reserve. this movement has the added advantage of a quickset hour hand, which allows the owner of the watch to make time adjustments conveniently and without interfering with the minutes. over the decades, the Submersible has steadily evolved along with Panerai. Born out of a primordial need for a tough, functional instrument, this timepiece preserves its powerful form even till this day. yet those who seek the Submersible today are people who desire an object that combines essential design with unquestionable masculinity. Finally, Panerai’s de facto dive icon has fully emerged from the depths.

Featuring a case, bezel, and crown protector in Carbotech

The wood-like grain of Carbotech distinguishes it from regular carbon fibre

Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days Automatic PAM616

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Fr eder ique Consta nt speCi a l

Salt Of the earth

Classical and traditional, yet defined by a passion for details and a flair for innovation, Frédérique Constant personifies the soul of watchmaking

Manufacture Heart Beat fc-945Mc4H9

Luscious in rose gold, this dazzling model comes with an in-house FC-942 calibre that bears a silicon escape wheel, anchor, and double-roller. Beautiful engraving on the dial and a sleek, elegant case make it a connoisseur’s timepiece.

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Fr eder ique Constant speCi al

runaBout cHronograpH fc-393rM5B6

A bona fide gentleman’s chronograph, this timepiece runs on an FC-393 movement and is rooted in the world of leisure boating. Ample detailing on the dial imparts a dapper allure without detracting from the classical complication.

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Fr eder ique Consta nt speCi a l

Manufacture SliMline fc-710V4S4

Minimalism meets timelessness in this genteel wristwatch, with nothing more than an analogue date to highlight its simplicity.

Its 11.7mm height slips discreetly under the cuff while its rose gold case adds a touch of luxury.

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Fr eder ique Constant speCi al

Vintage rally Healey autoMatic fc-303HV5B6

Honouring the exhilarating world of classic car racing, this vintage-inspired piece is paired with a unique perforated leather strap that brings to mind driving gloves of the 1950s.

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Fr eder ique Consta nt speCi a l

ladieS autoMatic douBle Heart Beat fc-310BdHB2pd6

Love is in the air with this sophisticated yet ultra-feminine timepiece. The combination of stainless steel with diamonds makes it suitable for night and day.

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Fr eder ique Constant speCi al

ladieS autoMatic douBle Heart Beat 34MM fc-310WHf2p6

With a pristine white mother-of-pearl dial and just a hint of sparkle, this elegant model unites two favourite elements of feminine timepieces.

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bell & Ross speci a l

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bell & Ross speci al

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bell & Ross speci a l

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bell & Ross speci al

Perfect for the Job Not to be overshadowed by its more famous sibling, the Bell & Ross BR 03 comes forth to fulfil its destiny

I

n the pursuit of excellence with the production of fine Swiss made military watches, Bell & Ross has built a history of passion and distinction with its professional timepieces. Specific to the areas of aviation and aeronautics, Bell & Ross has time and again produced functional timepieces that evoke the values of military precision. In fact, Bell & Ross has dug deep within the annals of history to find timepieces from the past that inspire the current collections of the brand. Among the sources of inspiration are the pocket watches from around the First World War as well as flight instrument panels of aircrafts during the time of the Second World War and of the 1960s. As Bell & Ross continues this tradition, and in sharing similar values with the military units it honours, the brand has produced several lines of products that have evolved over the years and become recognisable and iconic themselves.

The Bell & Ross collections that defined the landscape of military watches over the past decade include the Vintage range and

the well-known BR 01 watches. The success of these watches stem from the design elements that Bell & Ross have continuously included into its military watches. Evidently the watches are made to withstand real use by the personnel they were made for. The robustness and reliability of these watches are coupled with precision timekeeping as well as outstanding legibility to result in watches that are pure in their goal to be ultimate tool watches. For the purposes they are built for, no compromise is afforded to the finish and accuracy of the watches. Also paramount are the reliability, robustness, and legibility of the watches, as life and limb are potentially on the line.

EntEr thE hEroEs

The entire range of professional- and military-inspired watches by Bell & Ross, thus far, encompasses a broad number of models including the Vintage and the BR 01 watches. However, this year, the BR 03

Bell & Ross military watches have found their way onto the wrists of many aviation professionals

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Bell & Ross has created watched for these professional and military aviation institutions

BR 03 Tornado for the Italian Air Force is produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces to commemorate the 30 th anniversary of the legendary Tornado aircraft

takes centre stage by being the main subject of focus for the brand as it expands its collection and continues to honour the influential and professional military bodies in Europe. With the creation and subsequent evolution of the BR 03, Bell & Ross has successfully incorporated a number of features into the military and professional watches within this range.

As with the military watches in history, the demand for a specific function sees the function appearing onto the watch. We saw the need for pocket watches to end up on the wrist during the bunker warfare of the First World War. And in the Second World War, military entities were the ones who defined the need for pilot watches to have enlarged crowns and notched bezels for ease of use with gloves as well as the flyback function for easy resetting for pilots.

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BR 03 Type Aviation Armée de l’Air française in carbon with an analoguedigital display is produced at the request of the French Air Force

The BR 03-92 GIGN made exclusively and specifically for the elite members of the Gendarmerie Nationale

Today, when creating this serious tool watch that is the BR 03, Bell & Ross has taken input from each of the professional bodies they are meant for. As a result, the watches meet the stringent requirements of these entities and they contain the right functions to truly complement the tasks of the wearers. Every parameter of the watch is put into consideration, including case diameter, special functionalities, water resistance, legibility during night or day, precision, autonomy, shock and temperature resistance, and antimagnetic cases. In making timepieces for these professionals, Bell & Ross has ensured that it becomes part of their glorious histories.

We take a look at the some of the key watches that Bell & Ross has previously released for specific professional and military institutions across Europe.

bell & Ross speci al

The BR 03 Rafale is made to celebrate the success of the Dassault Rafale

stEalth assailant

One watch from Bell & Ross that is closely tied to the world of aviation is the BR 03 Rafale. It celebrates the Dassault Rafale fighter airplane – a multi-purpose fighter aircraft that gained prominence in air supremacy rankings in Europe when the French Navy and Air Force employed its use in 2004 and 2006 respectively.

The BR 03 Rafale became a big hit and subject of discussions at The BR 03 Rafale in BaselWorld 2015 when it was shown all its glory for the first time to members of the media and retailers. This is clearly due to the fact that the watch is utterly desirable because of its design aesthetics and construction as well as the subject matter it represents.

The BR 03 has been designed very much to fit the role of the cockpit clock and it is an obvious choice to house the tribute to the Dassault Rafale aircraft.

To bring the theme to the wrist, the colour codes of the case and dial are similar to that of the exterior of the Rafale. These design elements along with the contrast of the orange of the central seconds

and 30-minute timer hands clearly ensure that the watch is an eye catcher whether the wearer is in the air or in a boardroom meeting.

Tying these elements together is the presence of a chronograph, key to pilots who wish to log flight times.

Moving along, we discover that the case of the watch is made from high-tech ceramics – a material that is highly valued in the field of aeronautics. It is light, hard wearing, hypoallergenic, and has thermal control capabilities. The matt black case is reminiscent of the stealthy cockpit instruments of military aircrafts.

If the response so far is any indication, we can expect this limited edition tribute to sell out soon after its arrival at your favourite retailer.

Exploded view of the BR 03 Rafale’s high-tech ceramic case components

AgendA | collector interv iew

Off The BeaTen PaTh

Elshan Tang doesn’t just collect watches – he also designs and sells his own Words Jamie Tan

H

ow far would you go for your interests? In Elshan Tang’s case, a love for horology led him to found Zelos Watches through which he designs and sells his own timepieces. The startup caused quite a stir last year when its Kickstarter campaign – launched to crowd-fund its first collection, the Helmsman – reached its target within just four days. The project eventually raised almost CAD$82,000, very impressive considering Zelos’s lack of a track record.

Part of the Helmsman’s appeal lies in its atypical details, such as a bronze case and an inner rotating dive bezel.

A casual designer with just a cursory understanding of horology wouldn’t even think of such features, but Tang isn’t one.

The entrepreneur started his love affair with watches when he was still in National Service, beginning with Seiko before moving on to brands like Ball and Audemars Piguet. A developing penchant for offbeat

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timepieces, whether by virtue of brand or design, has made him consider selling off his popular watches though. This preference was also the reason behind his decision to start a company to “make a watch that hasn’t been done before”. In this interview, he shares about his hobby and the top picks from his collection.

How many watches do you own?

I have five at the moment, not counting those under my brand.

And of all your watches, which gets the most wrist time?

My own Zelos watches. I try to ‘field test’ them as much as possible to find out how I can improve on them.

Do you have a grail watch?

Yes, an Urwerk! There’s nothing quite like an Urwerk out there, and because its watches

are so expensive, it’d be some time before I’ll be able to afford one.

Of all your watches, which one gets the most attention?

My Hublot tends to be the most recognisable, especially among other collectors. My bronze Zelos Helmsman, however, does receive a fair bit of interest once I explain my business and bronze’s unique properties.

Have you ever suffered from buyer’s remorse?

Yes, unfortunately. It was my first Swiss watch, which I shall not name. I had painfully saved up for it using my National Service allowance. As the watch had a DLC coating, I had believed that it’d be hardier and stand up to abuse better. After just a month or two, however, the watch had already picked up a few dings, so I sold it off to make way for another.

Hublot big bang tantalum matte

When was it acquired?

Last year, from another collector.

How did you learn of this watch?

How can I not know of Hublot? The Big Bang is heavily marketed and its first hit design.

You got it for… $13,000, which is a steal compared to the original retail price.

What made you buy this watch?

It was actually difficult to pick, as there are many models of the Big Bang. I fell in love with it because of its matte tantalum case, which is rarely seen in watches. The material makes the watch feel heftier, which I like, and offers greater hardness than other metals.

How does this watch fit into your general lifestyle?

The durability of tantalum makes it a great everyday watch. Besides, it came with scratches from the previous owner, so I’m not afraid of adding a couple of my own.

Zelos Helmsman

anonimo Dino Zei nautilo

When did you acquire it?

The Helmsman is the debut model of my brand, and this sample was finished in December 2013.

When was it acquired?

About four years ago. It was also purchased from another collector.

How did you come to know about this brand and specific model?

I started the brand and designed the model myself.

How did you learn of this watch?

This is my third Anonimo watch as I love their unique case designs and the solid engineering behind them.

How much did you pay for it?

It’s currently available at $800.

You got it for… $3,000

What made you design it?

I chose bronze as I’m a huge fan of the material. Bronze watches in the market tend to be chunky dive watches which are too bulky for me to wear though, hence the Helmsman’s sleeker design.

What made you buy this watch?

I was curious about the idea of bronze developing a patina, and the brand was among the first to use bronze as a case material.

How does it fit into your daily lifestyle?

I wear it almost every day, as it’s a pretty casual timepiece that matches my attire most of the time.

The best thing I like about this watch is… …the bronze material which gives it an antique look.

How does this watch fit into your general lifestyle?

It’s not for everyday wear compared to the two, as its bronze case and large size makes it look extremely rugged and casual.

The best thing I like about this watch is… ...the case that fits my wrist very well, despite being so chunky. And the usage of bronze, of course!

The best thing I like about this watch is… …its stealthy look, and its tantalum watch construction.

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AgendA | talk the talk

AlessAndro BrAgA

The sales director of Armand Nicolet tells us what this brand has that few others do interview by kelvin tAn

“A

rmand Nicolet is a very special brand. This is because we use vintage movements from our storage. Every brand has its own DNA. Ours, for sure, is the usage of vintage moments because this, nobody else has. That is what people look for in our watches. It really showcases the level of craftsmanship that we have.

“We have about 20,000 old movements of different calibres. It’s too expensive to produce our own movements.

This is the case for a lot of watch companies.

For many brands, if ETA stops supplying them with movements, they would not know what to do. We, on the other hand, know how to modify and use movements that are up to 50 years old.

“One of the main challenges that we face is finding the right craftspeople for the job. This is the most difficult thing to achieve, so we do something that few other companies do. We provide a certificate of warranty with the name and signature of the person who made the watch. We try to nurture the young generation and allow them to learn from master watchmakers.

“You see, 10 years ago, when we started our first limited editions, our production capacity is very small. Now that we have more craftsmen, we are investing in these people because they are the ones who can create beautiful timepieces that are different from others.

“We understand that people need to be reassured that our watches are not like others. This is why we have on all our dials “OHM”, which means Original Historical Movement. With it, people can understand that our collection is totally unique and different. Our specialty is restoration, modification, and the usage of historical movements.”

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AgendA

Ask The experT Intrepid watch collector and star horology blogger, SJX, lends a hand on all things watch related Q: How is the Ulysse Anchor escapement different from the GirardPerregaux Constant Force escapement?

A: Both are actually similar, relying on the physical properties of silicon (slightly elastic and flexible) to create an escapement with constant force on every impulse. The differences lie in the construction. The Ulysse Anchor escapement has a pallet fork suspended on a silicon frame (it’s a single piece), with a pair of silicon blades holding it in place. Each time the pallet fork swings in one direction, the blades on each side buckle in opposing directions, pulling the pallet fork back and forth. Because the blades buckle with minimal force applied, and spring back with the same energy each time, the escapement yields a constant force, even when the mainspring is winding down. And the system works with nearly no energy loss thanks to the properties of silicon, making it highly efficient.

The Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement works on similar principles, except it is attached to a butterfly-shaped silicon frame with two horizontal blades. Like in the Ulysse Nardin one, they buckle back and forth with identical force each time, giving it a constant force escapement.

But the GP differs from the UN in that the latter is a traditional lever escapement, while the GP uses twin escape wheels in a double impulse escapement, making it a more complex and larger mechanism.

Girard-Perregaux Constant Force escapement

Ulysse Anchor escapement

Q: Why are some movements described in terms of lignes?

A: Roughly equivalent to 2.2558mm, a ligne is used to denote the diameter of the movement and expressed in quarters and halves. The ETA 2892, for instance, measures 25.6mm across, making it 11½’’’.

The ligne is an archaic unit of measurement inherited from the French who used it during the Ancien Régime, that is until the French Revolution in the 18 th century. Usually abbreviated as the triple prime (’’’), the ligne was part of a system of measurements dating back to the ninth century, with origins in ancient Rome. The system is similar to the Imperial System, working in units of 12. So 12 lignes equals a pouce (also known as a French inch), and so on. Besides watches, lignes are still used today to measure the width of men’s hat ribbons, lamp wicks, and buttons.

The reason Swiss watchmaking uses a French measure is also the same reason why the Swiss watchmaking industry is largely francophone. In the 17 th century, large numbers of French watchmakers, who were mainly Huguenots or French Protestants, fled to Switzerland as a result of religious persecution in France.

Q: What are the effects of magnetism on a movement?

A: On quartz movements, the effect endures only while the watch is in the magnetic field. Once removed the quartz movement continues to function normally. That’s because the oscillator of a quartz movement is a quartz crystal with a current running through it.

The effect on a mechanical movement is more durable, since the oscillator of a mechanical watch – namely the hairspring – is made of a metal alloy that can be magnetised. Though other components like the mainspring and screws can also be magnetised, there is no effect on timekeeping. But the hairspring is sensitive and essential for proper timekeeping. Once magnetised, the coils of the balance spring tend to ‘stick’ together, with the degree of ‘stickiness’ depending on the strength of the magnetic field. Usually the consequence is the watch running fast (sometimes slow), even exceptionally fast when heavily magnetised and sometimes stopping altogether.

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Photo Cartier

the hOUR MARKeRS

Presenting the latest novelties, greatest innovations, and the most desirable timepieces

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Design is Key

Cartier, the undisputed master of shaped watches, reimagines the tonneau with a new line called Clé de Cartier Words Celine Yap

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o pin Cartier down to just one flagship watch is an impossible mission. Its collections of timepieces today have risen so far above the basic domain of watchmaking to become symbols of style-setting art in their own right. Those who appreciate Cartier’s unmistakeable touch recognise, without fail, the familiar Roman numerals, the elegant flinqué decoration, and the luxurious blue sapphire cabochon set into the crown. Watches like the Santos, the Tank, the Tortue, and the Pasha have stood the ultimate test of time, while modern creations like Ballon Bleu de Cartier, Rotonde de Cartier, and Calibre de Cartier have grown Cartier as a watchmaker.

Following in the footsteps of the Ballon Bleu is a new collection aimed at reinforcing the message that, even though Cartier has achieved sterling results in complicated watchmaking, it retains a unique ability to craft classic objects of luxury – watches that are beautiful simply because they have been designed beautifully. This new collection is called Clé de Cartier.

Clé is French for key, and as promised, this watch bears a key in the form of its crown. Setting the time or date thus becomes a convivial gesture, one that is also evocative of historical timepieces that were literally wound with a key. Such a unique crown also required the obligatory blue sapphire to be cut in another shape than the cabochon, which until now was the single preferred choice for Cartier. Called the arch cut, this is a completely new although somewhat similar cut, as it harks to the sugarloaf cut in its absence of facets. Because Clé de Cartier exists in three sizes – 40mm, 35mm, and 31mm – the arch-cut sapphire comes in three sizes too: 5.05ct, 4.27ct, and 3.21ct. Flushed with the metal surrounding it, this stone adds a rich pop of colour accompanying the watch’s classical blued steel hands.

There is also something else about Clé de Cartier that one needs to personally experience rather than rely on third party sources like

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a friend or a magazine, even if it’s such an exceptional one as this.

Officially, Cartier calls it a “simple click”, but it really is more than just that. It is similar to the experience of shutting the door of a luxury automobile, where you will hear that solid, reassuring ‘thud’, which only the best made cars yield. Clé de Cartier, too, offers the same kind of reassurance, as there is a gentle yet distinctive click every time you pull the crown out and push it back in. Additionally, the crown is engineered to turn in half circles perpendicular to the case, while it is always guaranteed to return to its original position parallel to the case at the end.

The svelte proportions of Clé de Cartier necessitated a movement with equally modest dimensions, and thus instead of the manufacture’s reliable Calibre 1904MC, this watch uses the new Calibre 1847MC – an 11½ ligne (25.6mm) self-winding movement with a single barrel. Instead of the usual Côtes de Genève, the lesser-known Vagues de Genève decoration adorns its bridges and plates.

Clé de Cartier proffers a new shape, the tonneau married with an expansive circular dial, and of course, a unique crown that’s at once curved and angular. Compared to other tonneau-shaped models by Cartier like the Tortue and the Roadster, Clé de Cartier stands out for its sleek, fluid lines and harmonious curves. As suitable for men as it is for women, this new collection looks set to be a future Cartier classic.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre 1847 with 42-hour power reserve Case 40mm, 35mm, or 31mm in white or pink gold, water resistant to 30m strap Alligator leather or matching bracelet priCe From RM67,000 (pink gold) to RM330,000 (white gold full pavé)

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Super BlockBuSter

With the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph, Audemars Piguet serves up centuries-long watchmaking savoir-faire in a futuristic package Words Celine Yap

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or many, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore is the ultimate luxury sports watch. And to give credit where it’s due, this timepiece has certainly lived up to expectations. Just by design alone, it inspires awe; the octagonal bezel with eight exposed screws and the exposed waterproofing gasket is now practically synonymous with the Le Brassus watchmaker.

Where the Royal Oak is a shining beacon of neoclassicism, the Offshore is a vanguard of innovation. There is no material too audacious for this fearless timepiece, which has since existed in titanium, tantalum, forged carbon, and more. Almost always paired with a chronograph, except in the case of the Diver, the Offshore with its capacious dimensions is an ideal platform for additional complications, and Audemars Piguet readily takes advantage of that in the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph.

While an Offshore with tourbillon and chronograph isn’t exactly news – Audemars Piguet had already launched reference 26288OF in XXXX – this latest model reference 26550AU does bring along new features that would be greatly appreciated by serious collectors.

Aesthetically, it looks like a completely different watch. Where its predecessor had anodised aluminium bridges supporting the tourbillon and the twin parallel barrels, the tourbillon bridge here is made in titanium. Also, the tourbillon had shifted from nine o’clock to six, making room for a small seconds sub-dial. The 30-second counter remains at three o’clock, thus giving the watch a more sober appeal, which is underscored also by the solid dial with the classic Offshore Méga Tapisserie pattern. The predecessor had a semi-openworked design that exuded more audacity, less sobriety.

Reference 26550AU also features an aperture at one o’clock that is constantly animated when the watch is strapped to the wrist.

This would be the most important single element in this timepiece that distinguishes it from the older model, for it exposes the movement’s 100

self-winding mechanism. Where before there was only a manually wound Offshore tourbillon chronograph, collectors today have the option of one with a self-winding device, and not just any ordinary self-winding device.

Positioned below the transparent inner flange marked in black with the minutes is the movement’s peripheral winding rotor in 950 platinum. Every swing of the arm and twist of the wrist will cause it to rotate in either direction, interacting with the winding mechanism, which in turn engages the mainspring. The watch stays powered for a maximum of 65 hours. Compared to the 237-hour power reserve of its predecessor, it might not seem like much, but if winding your watch manually sounds like a chore, then this is the one you should get.

The peripheral winding rotor also affords a completely unimpeded view of the new movement, Calibre 2897. Made up of 335 components, all of which are bevelled, polished, and decorated (mirror polishing, hand-chamfering, and circular graining) by hand, this movement proudly displays the column wheel and also the unmistakeable horizontal clutch mechanism. What also stands reference 26550AU apart is the mélange of cutting-edge materials – titanium for the pushpiece guards and links, ceramic for the bezel, and forged carbon for the case – giving it a sleek, monochromatic and contemporary persona.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre 2897 chronograph movement with tourbillon and 65-hour power reserve Case 44mm in forged carbon with black ceramic bezel, crown, and pushpieces, and titanium pushpiece guards and links, water resistant to 100m strap Black rubber with titanium pin buckle priCe RM931,000

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The original Geophysic chronometer

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An HomAge to Science Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Geophysic 1958 honours its predecessor from over 50 years ago with a highly technical watch in an upsized case Words jaime tan

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ith Stalin’s death in 1953, scientific exchange between the West and East began to resume as international relations normalised. This culminated in the International Geophysical Year, a programme involving 67 nations that took place from 1 July 1957 to 31 December 1958. Jaeger-LeCoultre was inspired by the various endeavours that were taking place in this period, and created the Geophysic chronometer as its take on an ultra-technical watch that could “resist all hazards” that scientists and explorers of that era would face. The Geophysic 1958 is a tribute to the original, and bears many similarities to it.

Like its predecessor from over half a century ago, the Geophysic 1958 has a highly technical slant, beginning with its movement, Calibre 898/1. Jaeger-LeCoultre considers this calibre to be one of its most precise and reliable given its suite of features. Spyr gears for smooth transmission of torque in the gear train, KIF-Parechoc balance protection for shock-resistance, and ceramic ball bearings in the winding system to eliminate the need for lubrication are just some of Calibre 898/1’s highlights. The movement is housed inside a soft-iron inner case to protect it against magnetism, with the outer case water resistant to 100m to complete the package.

To adapt the watch to modern tastes, the case dimension has been upsized to 38.5mm, with references in steel, pink gold, and

platinum. The Geophysic chronometer’s dial aesthetics have been maintained here though. Like the original, the new watches sport a plain rhodium-plated (steel and platinum) or gold-toned (rose gold) dial, which is finished with applique indexes and sword hands to achieve superb legibility. To distinguish the reference in platinum, Jaeger-LeCoultre has omitted the crosshair motif on its dial and simplified its indexes and chapter ring to create a dressier watch.

Like all other Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces, the Geophysic 1958 has undergone the manufacture’s 1000 Hours Control, which is a series of internal tests that ensure its precision and reliability. The entire watch sans strap is tested for up to six weeks in six positions, both at rest and while in motion, and only sold after it has passed this evaluation. The Geophysic 1958 is limited to 800 pieces in steel, 300 pieces in pink gold, and 58 pieces in platinum. The reference in platinum is only available from Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques.

MoveMent Self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 898/1 with 43-hour power reserve Case 38.5mm in steel, pink gold, or platinum, water resistant to 100m strap Alligator leather with pin buckle priCe RM32,300 (steel) RM68,000 (pink gold) RM105,000 (platinum)

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From Dawn To Dusk

Panerai reprises the equation of time complication in two new Radiomir 1940 and Luminor 1950 models Words Celine Yap

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aving made watches and instruments for the Royal Italian Navy cultivated in Panerai a natural impulse to go strong on utility. There is no utility without legibility, so without exception, all Panerai watches have large and clear dials, as well as ultra-luminous numerals, indices, and hands. A linear power reserve indicator, as such, works perfectly for Panerai because it uses only minimal space.

Likewise, in its new chronograph movements, the manufacture reduced the need for extra sub-dials by adding a centrally mounted chronograph minutes hand. In a bid to offer additional functions without accumulating dial clutter, Panerai constantly thinks of ways to economise on precious dial real estate. Thus, when the manufacture decided to produce new models with the equation of time complication, a similar strategy was adopted.

Panerai’s first foray into the celestial complications realm materialised in the Luminor 1950 Equation Of Time Tourbillon PAM365 released in 2010. Also known as L’Astronomo, it was one of Panerai’s most complicated models with an in-house movement.

Most interestingly, it displayed the equation of time on a linear scale, just like what it did with the power reserve indication. Completely unconventional at the time, it was, however, the perfect strategy for Panerai.

Equation of time in a timepiece is, essentially, a complication that displays true solar time, in addition to mean solar time.

The difference between the two can be best explained using a traditional sundial and a clock or watch. A sundial tells the time based on the length of the shadow cast by the sun, and thus, it displays true solar time. On the other hand, a clock or watch displays mean solar time according to the universally accepted rules on timekeeping, which is that there is exactly 24 hours each day, where in reality, a full day is slightly less than that because of 104

the Earth’s tilted axis. Following mean solar time is practical on a daily basis, but having true solar time allows you to know exactly when the sun will rise and set – if you’re a vampire, this would be an indispensible tool.

So mean solar time is always a little faster or a little slower than true solar time. Of the 364-point-something days a year, only four will see mean and true solar times coinciding. As for the other 360, the time difference varies from +16 minutes to -16 minutes. On the new Panerai models, this can be read clearly off the linear scale. Right in the centre is the point where mean and true solar times are the same; when the indicator shifts to the left, you need to deduct a few minutes from the time displayed by the hours and minutes hand; when the indicator shifts to the right, you need to add a few minutes. For clarity’s sake, Panerai has rounded off the equation of time to +/- 15 minutes.

Whether in the PAM601 or the PAM516, the watch offers date and month display on a classic black sandwich dial with sand-coloured numerals and indices. Gold hours and minutes hands add a touch of sophistication. Through the sapphire case back, the Calibre P.2002/E movement can be admired and the wearer can also keep tabs on its state of wind – it’s not emblazoned on the dial, but this movement stores an impressive eight days of power reserve.

MoveMent Manual-winding Calibre P.2002/E with equation of time, date, month, power reserve indication, and eight days power reserve Case 47mm in polished steel (PAM601) or 48mm in polished steel (PAM516) strap Brown or black alligator leather priCe RM76,950 (PAM601) RM75,400 (PAM516)

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Old SchOOl cOOl

To mark the Portugieser’s 75th anniversary, IWC has released a watch referencing the very first ones introduced in 1939 Words jaime tan

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ith 2015 being both IWC’s Year of the Portugieser and the collection’s 75th anniversary, the manufacture has released several new and updated timepieces, including two 75th anniversary edition watches. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” is the ultramodern take on the watch, with large double digit displays for both its date and month, as well as a flyback chronograph. The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “75th Anniversary” here, in contrast, is a far more traditional take on the watch.

The original Portuguese that IWC introduced in 1939, Reference 325, came in several variants with different dial designs. This timepiece pays homage to a fairly obscure variant, owing to an original specimen in private collection that the manufacture’s designers had access to for reference. Although the watch maintains the signature elements that define the Portugieser, such as feuille hands and Arabic 106

numerals, the exact details on the dial give it a decidedly vintage look.

Note the throwback to IWC’s softer brand signature of yore, along with the bold inner chapter ring and hour indexes. The Arabic numerals used here are also of an old-style typeface in a nod to the original design it references. Even the colour schemes of the watch are aimed at conveying an older look – the reference in steel uses light green markings against black, while the one in red gold uses golden brown markings with black edges on a silver dial.

Vintage styling aside, the Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “75th Anniversary” does contain several modern elements.

The inclusion of a date display at six o’clock, for example, gives the wearer convenience without upsetting the watch’s aesthetics. The Calibre 59215 movement within the watch is also a contemporary touch. Although it bears similarities to old pocket watch movements with its large 37.8mm diameter, the movement boasts several

improvements, beginning with an eight-day power reserve. This is actually an artificial limit, as the movement affords a lot of space for the barrel given its hand-wound design. IWC’s engineers have, however, implemented a system that stops the movement after 192 hours, lest the mainspring supplies insufficient torque and compromises isochronism. A power reserve indicator is visible via the case back to allow the owner to keep track of the remaining running time of the watch.

Like the rest of its siblings introduced this year, the Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “75th Anniversary� sports several incremental changes compared to older references. A box-shaped sapphire crystal, for instance, allows the designers to reduce the

thickness of the case for a more airy look. The lugs and spring bars have also been redesigned, with the latter being curved, in order to fit the contours of the wrist better. As a finishing touch, the watch comes paired with a Santoni leather strap.

MoveMent Manual-winding IWC Calibre 59215 with 192-hour power reserve Case 43mm in steel or red gold, water resistant to 30m strap Black (steel) or dark brown (red gold) alligator leather with pin buckle priCe RM39,900 (steel) RM73,000 (red gold)

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a full house

Teutonic powerhouse A. Lange & Söhne serves up major upgrades to the fabled Datograph Words kelvin tan

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t seems that the overall success of the Datograph has brought A. Lange & Söhne to develop and release a version of the watch that should appease watch lovers who want a timepiece that tracks the movement of time across the years. This is a watch that needs only to be corrected for one day on its moon phase indicator every 122.6 years.

This white gold example of exquisite watchmaking is not the first from the brand as a pink gold version is already in the market.

However, probably due to the success of the latter, the brand has decided to release a white gold version with a dark grey dial. Given the sheer number of willing Datograph buyers, having more options is never a bad thing.

The Datograph Perpetual is chock-full of functionality and complications, all of which are fitting for the watch as they revolve around the tracking of time across seconds, minutes, and hours, as well as days, months, and years, plus leap year. All of these functions have respective indicators and displays that are legible and concise. Clearly this is a watch that honours the traditions, aesthetics, and style of A. Lange & Söhne. In order to achieve all 108

of these in a watch that comes in a conservatively sized 41mm case with 13.55mm in height, a manually wound calibre L952.1 is employed within the case of watch.

The Datograph Perpetual will definitely capture one’s attention with its classically striking look that showcases the fine workmanship of the artisans at the manufactory. Upon closer inspection, one will notice the striking gold lunar disc that acts as a base for the moon phase indicator along with the luminous hour and minute hands. Finally, to finish off the grey metallic theme of the watch, the timepiece is given a black alligator strap to ensure that this precious work of art sits comfortably on some lucky owner’s wrist.

MoveMent Manual-winding Calibre L952.1 chronograph movement with flyback and jumping minute counter, perpetual calendar, outsized date, moon phase indication, and 36-hour power reserve Case 41mm in white gold, water resistant to 30m strap Black alligator with prong buckle in white gold priCe RM466,200

MoveMent Manual-winding Calibre L951.6 chronograph movement with flyback and jumping minutes counter, outsized date, power reserve indicator, and 60-hour power reserve Case 41mm in pink gold, water resistant to 30m strap Dark brown alligator with prong buckle in pink gold priCe RM276,000

Three years ago, the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph was only available in a platinum case. After a seemingly agonising wait, the German meister saw it fit to release a new version in pink gold at this year’s SIHH. One wonders if the manufacture takes schadenfreude-esque pleasure in tormenting its collectors. In any case, the wait is over. This new timepiece presents the prominent and high contrast black dial of the classic Datograph Up/Down with the warmer tone of a pink gold case.

The arrival of this new case material option does not detract from the perfection of Datograph’s famous black dial.

This solid silver dial is embellished with high contrast argenté sub-dials for seconds and minutes indicators forming a beautiful and balanced equilateral triangle with the very visible outsized date windows. Floating atop the dial are luminous hands that tell the time against pink gold baton hour markers.

Perhaps considered a refresh of the original Datograph, the Datograph Up/Down comes as a heavily desired chronograph timepiece complete with classic column wheel control mechanicals, a precise jumping minute counter, as well as flyback functionality. A power reserve indicator comes in the form of the Up/Down arrow that indicates how much of the 60-hour power reserve remains.

A flip to the back presents the sapphire case back that proudly shows off the much-vaunted and exquisitely finished Calibre L951.6, exemplary of the peak of German watchmaking. Here, one can enjoy viewing the chronograph mechanism, the lavishly detailed finishing of the German silver three-quarter plate, hand engravings on the balance cock along with gold chatons, and blued screws that put together all the parts and complete the masterpiece.

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ode to chronometry Montblanc’s Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph combines two complications dedicated to precise timekeeping Words Celine Yap

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nvented to average out the effects of gravity on the hairspring, the tourbillon is unquestionably a precision device. The traditional construction has the entire escapement, balance wheel, and hairspring housed within a tourbillon carriage that rotates on its axis, usually completing a turn every 60 seconds. Gravity’s accelerating effect during the first 180 degrees of rotation is offset by a corresponding deceleration during the next 180 degrees. In this way, the rate of the movement remains constant. Sounds like the perfect solution, but even such an amazing device can be improved upon.

Enter the Montblanc ExoTourbillon.

Typically, since it is required to house the balance, the tourbillon carriage has to be larger, and thus heavier, than the balance. More mass needs more power to keep the carriage rotating, and this has a direct impact on the energy efficiency of the movement, sapping power reserve hours from the mainspring. Montblanc’s ExoTourbillon circumvents this problem by isolating the screw balance from the rotating carriage. Now, because the carriage no longer needs to contain the balance and escapement, it can be smaller and hence lighter. The ExoTourbillon’s balance oscillates outside the carriage and on a higher plane. This also liberates the rotating carriage from 110

the weight of the balance, saving even more energy, since now the balance is no longer affected by the inertia of the carriage. According to Montblanc, the ExoTourbillon construction is 30 per cent more efficient than a traditional tourbillon and also, in spite of the languid 21,600vph frequency, more precise.

Additional touches that put the spotlight on timekeeping precision include the stop seconds device, which directly halts the balance by means of a tiny spring. This rare construction is also a first for Montblanc and an extremely useful one, as it offers unparalleled time-setting precision. With it, the user can set the time of the watch to the nearest second. The device works by stopping the balance wheel instead of the tourbillon carriage, and thus runs no risk of what is known as ‘after-swing’. Doubling up as a running seconds indicator, the ExoTourbillon is perched securely under the tourbillon bridge with two arrowheads on either side that harks back to the watchmaking signature of the manufacture Minerva.

Now that the watch has established tip-top accuracy, the next question would be: What to do with all that precision? The answer presents itself in the form of a chronograph, or to be more precise, a monopusher chronograph controlled by a column wheel with efficient

vertical coupling. Elapsed time can be read easily and quickly off the two semi-circular sub-dials at three and nine o’clock with alternating gold and red indicators. There is also the analogue date display around the hours and minutes hands.

For greater functionality, the movement has a quick-set function for the hours hand, which allows it to be adjusted independently of the minutes. Perfect for busy travellers, it is coupled to the date indication and moves forwards as well as backwards.

Some slight aesthetic features are unique to the ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph that other models in the Heritage Chronométrie collection don’t have. For instance, the bezel is not flat but concave, giving the watch an extra detail, which also helps it avoid scratches.

Its facetted horns are satin-finished on the inside and polished on the outside. Other than these, the watch, like all the rest in the collection, comes with the Montblanc emblem on the crown and a sumptuous leather strap made at Montblanc’s Pelletteria in Florence, Italy.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre MB R230 tourbillon monopusher chronograph movement with 50-hour power reserve Case 44mm in red gold, water resistant to 30m strap Black alligator leather with pin buckle in red gold priCe RM156,100

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Star Struck

Roger Dubuis continues its atypical take on skeletonisation, this time with star-shaped motifs Words jaime tan

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oger Dubuis has declared 2015 its Year of the Astral Skeleton, with “astral” reflecting the manufacture’s commitment to reach for the stars and “skeleton” referring to the technique of openworking. The latter is often used by manufactures to show off their watchmaking expertise, and Roger Dubuis is no stranger to this.

Besides accomplishing technical feats like the inclusion of double flying tourbillons in a single movement, Roger Dubuis is also very familiar with skeletonisation. The brand’s take on the technique is highly contemporary though – smooth flowing curves are forgone in favour of architectural and technical motifs, and the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton is among the latest creations showcasing this.

The Excalibur collection is a natural choice to display Roger Dubuis’s new takes on skeletonisation. Despite its round case and crown at three o’clock, the watch has several quirks that give it an offbeat vibe, such as a fluted bezel and triple lugs. This meshes perfectly with the star-shaped motif common to all of Roger Dubuis’s skeletonised watches this year. Within the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton, the RD820SQ movement’s bridges have been reduced to a highly asymmetric five-pointed star. The star’s points radiate from the centre of the mainspring at four o’clock, and are ‘attached’ to the inner sides of the case at the hour marker positions. Like how the round case mitigates the sharp corners of the watch’s lugs, the angular star has similarly been

softened by the circular bridges surrounding the balance wheel and micro-rotor. The latter has been skeletonised into a star-shaped motif too, albeit more regularly. Considering that micro-rotors are already at a disadvantage both weight- and torque-wise, Roger Dubuis’s ability to shave off precious weight from the micro-rotor to lighten it, yet have it efficient enough to wind the movement up is particularly impressive.

Like all other Roger Dubuis watches, the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton is Poinçon de Genève certified. As expected, the watch has detailed finishing applied to the remaining surfaces of its movement, which range from perlage to straight line and circular graining. The watch is available in DLC-coated titanium, pink gold, and pink gold with a diamond-set bezel.

MoveMent Self-winding Roger Dubuis Calibre RD820SQ with 60hour power reserve Case 42mm in DLC-coated titanium, pink gold, or pink gold with approximately 60 baguette-cut diamonds totalling about 1.84 carats, water resistant to 30m strap Alligator leather with deployant buckle priCe RM215,000 (titanium) RM265,000 (pink gold) RM385,000 (pink gold with diamonds)

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size matters

After creating the behemoth that is the Giga Tourbillon, Franck Muller continues its streak with supersized tourbillons – meet the Vanguard Gravity Words Celine Yap

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s the Genevan watchmaker’s latest watch, the Vanguard has started to shape up really well as a full collection. To date, it has a self-winding model, a chronograph, a tourbillon, and a women’s model in myriad materials and sizes. But whether precious in gold and diamonds or rugged in carbon and titanium, the Vanguard is the urban warrior’s ideal daily watch. Fans of Franck Muller’s classic Cintrée Curvex shape who are looking for something sportier, your search ends here.

The latest model to join this family is the Vanguard Gravity. Following in the footsteps of the supersized Giga Tourbillon, it places all the attention on the gravity-defying high complication. In this timepiece, Franck Muller introduces a new tourbillon concept with an elliptical carriage made of ultra-light aluminium, and in place of typical bridges and pillars, there is an ellipse measuring 21.2mm by 7.7mm around which the carriage rotates. Fulfilling the same function as a traditional tourbillon, which averages out the effects of gravity on the hairspring, the carriage charts an elliptical path instead of a circular one, but still evenly distributes the weight of gravity as it turns.

With a 14mm diameter, the balance wheel oscillates at a frequency of 18,800vph and the entire tourbillon device

– escapement, balance, hairspring, and all – can be seen on both sides of the watch thanks to the use of sapphire crystal on the front and back. Now, if you’re wondering why the tourbillon just looks like it’s missing something, but can’t quite put your finger on it, let us tell you the answer. It’s the familiar FM logo usually found on all Franck Muller tourbillons. Indeed, this would be the first Franck Muller tourbillon watch that has a three-armed carriage, which on hindsight, is more traditional than the FM one. The entire contraption sits snugly under an overarching cross-armed bridge.

It may be cased in precious gold, but this watch isn’t your usual gent’s watch, not with the hint of black PVD set in the case middle. The strap, as well, has more to it than meets the eye. Whether in fabric or crocodile leather, it is inlaid with rubber on the underside for a more ergonomic fit – perfect for the humid climates of Southeast Asia.

MoveMent Manual-winding Calibre CS-03 tourbillon movement with five-day power reserve Case 44mm X 53.7mm in titanium, white or pink gold strap Rubber lined fabric or leather priCe RM417,587 (titanium ) RM457,337 (pink gold)

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polar opposites

Graham does a Jekyll and Hyde with the Geo.Graham Tourbillon and the Prodive Words jason k wong

T

he Geo.Graham Tourbillon is a muchwelcomed throwback to an era when George Graham fiddled with pocket watches that bear his name. His illustrious contributions to horology include building the master clock for the Greenwich Royal Observatory in the 18 th century and perfecting the chronograph complication.

Maybe it’s the Brit humour, but a twist of fate led the Swiss brand to pay homage to its British founder with a 60-second tourbillon rather than his ‘preferred’ complication. Nevertheless, Graham’s double-bridge tribute is a stunning one that does it in anorexic fashion – pulling double duty as a seconds indicator while correcting the effects of gravity on its hairspring – in a 40mm pink gold case that is just 9.85mm thin.

How is this possible? Well, the G1796 automatic movement made exclusively for Graham in collaboration with movement makers Le Cercle des Horlogers in La Chauxde-Fonds, uses a micro-rotor, as opposed to a conventionally sized one, and is capable of churning out a power reserve of 72 hours. Of its constituents, the gold off-centred oscillating weight is housed in a special slot beneath the sapphire crystal case back and provides the momentum needed to keep things moving along swimmingly. The ornamental arabesque engravings that are a tribute to George Graham’s British watchmaking pedigree adds a distinctive, timeless look.

The rest of the calibre is also beautiful with Côtes de Genève decoration, circular graining, chamfered bridges, and a limited edition serial number etching to indicate the 100 well-heeled MoveMent Self-winding Calibre G1796 with 60-second tourbillon and 72-hour power reserve Case 40mm in pink gold, water resistant to 50m strap Brown alligator with pink gold pin buckle priCe Unavailable

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wearers fortunate enough to own one. One need only glance at the dome-shaped dial to see the beauty of the tourbillon that appears to be suspended in mid-air as a result of being sandwiched between two sapphire “glass boxes”.

Admittedly, it is peculiar to see both Roman and Arabic numeral markers on the lacquered enamel dial. But fear not, the elegant flame-blue central hands play peacekeepers, and a railway track minute scale acts as a border to prevent invasions between the opposing nations. Many will undoubtedly be drawn to its eccentricities and slender form that is complemented by a hand-sewn brown alligator strap.

If you’re a Splinter Cell nut who just sold his tech start-up to Microsoft, a fund manager who likes to frolic with red-faced hotel heiresses, or just in the market for a timepiece that makes you look cool, then Graham’s Prodive is the watch for you.

The latest incarnation of the collection is conceived as a compilation of technical inputs over the years in a stealthy, black stainless steel case. For one, there’s the familiar patented lever system (it activates the chronograph functions) that we’re accustomed to seeing, as well as the automatic locking bayonet that protects the “golden crown”, with a red safety ring to indicate

its unlocking. Limited to 250 pieces, it features a screwed-down case back with the insignia of the apex predator that roams the ocean like he owns it.

The gold-on-white indications are highly legible in daylight, whereas the high contrast blue and green Super-LumiNova tubes provide optimum visibility at night, yet discreet enough that a sniper (or office superior) won’t be able to detect your whereabouts.

It looks not only like a watch for one with the technical expertise to pull off a single gold monopusher on the left – the fast-action trigger incorporates start, stop, and reset functions – but it is also appropriate on weekends when you need a conversation piece to impress the ladies.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre G1750 monopusher chronograph movement with 48-hour power reserve Case 45mm in steel with black DLC coating, water resistant to 600m strap Black alligator or rubber with steel folding buckle, black DLC clasp, and diver extension. priCe Unavailable

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Foreign TerriTory

Forgoing Swiss conventions in favour of rebellious aesthetics and unconventional lightweight materials, BRM is looking to jumpstart a French revolution of sorts in the racing-inspired range of sport watches Words Jason Kwong

B

ernard Richards Manufacture (BRM) adds two new additions to its growing stable and both are certain to garner admiring looks as a result of a French pedigree that emphasises the rare commodities of quality and innovative techniques. Founder Bernard Richards has more than two decades’ worth of industrial experience as a watch craftsman and his affection for motorsports is evident in his timepieces that seem to replicate the dimensions of vehicles that satiate one’s irrepressible need for speed. In 2003, he designed and built his first watch – the GP44, an oversized chronograph with undeniable racing inclinations – and has since adhered to producing only 200 watches every month to ensure exclusivity to all who procure its timepieces.

While the trend of oversized watches – that could very well result in dislocated shoulders with exuberant arm swinging – has simmered down somewhat, the R50 is a head turner that belies a hefty looking exterior.

Symbolic of this quest to pack a wallop under the hood, the R50 is encased in a 50mm Makrolon polycarbonate case that is partially translucent and will undoubtedly yield dividends in spades. The reason is that it is both inherently rigid and resistant to abrasions, while being much lighter than stainless steel and titanium. This renders the watch a nimble lightweight that punches above its weight class.

Taking design cues from the engine blocks of souped-up road munchers and the cylinders of motorcycles, carbon fibre is applied

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generously while impact from external shocks are minimised through springs that ply their trade as ‘suspensions’ akin to that of high-end race cars, albeit in micro-engineered form. Held together by three triangles that form an axis, the lively open balance wheel is visible through the skeletonised dial.

Time-telling swagger is revved up a notch by the automatic A07161 within. Duty bound to tell the time left on a 48-hour power reserve, a sub-dial at six o’clock provides some much needed relief for those who need to know the amount of fuel available. Additional weight is shaved off with screw-on lugs, as well as an aluminium alloy rotor with a tantalum oscillating weight.

Achieving the desired aesthetics can also be attributed to the usage of scratch-proof sapphire crystal on the front and case back, with BRM declaring it the lightest automatic watch to boast a power reserve indicator. Aggressive colours of red tempered with black add to the race devil appeal. Look for converts from the Swiss cohort to make a beeline to check out this new kid on the block.

MoveMent Automatic BRM A07161 with 48-hour power reserve Case 50mm in titanium, rose gold or Makrolon, water resistant to 100m strap Light calf leather strap priCe RM88,200

Making its debut this year, the V8 44 Gulf represents the epitome of BRM’s contemporary line with its sleek vehicular mien. A natural evolution of the V6 44 MK – trumpeted by the brand as the lightest 44mm automatic watch – its cool factor is augmented by the chronograph sub-dials that resemble the speedometer and odometer on a dash board, with the seconds indicator situated on a strip of red at six o’clock. Large crown and pushers are a plus, as one will find it a breeze to fiddle with them on the wrist.

A contrarian approach has resulted in a watch that is not only sprightly, but also boasts a form factor that is only 7.9mm thick. And like the R50, a weight reduction measure sees black stainless steel lugs screwed on to the case. This allows for versatility when pairing different case materials. There are tachymetre etchings on the bezel and the black-brushed titanium case is PVD coated for extra resilience.

There’s a lot going on and symmetry is unsettled with a

date window at five o’clock that renders it no longer viable to present the V8 44 Gulf in skeletonised form like its predecessor.

Rightfully so, as the automatic 7753 movement with 46-hour power reserve within is concealed for the sake of improved legibility. A date corrector at 10 o’clock stands ready to make the necessary adjustments. Part of the headlining collection, it comes in a limited edition of 200 pieces that will have loyalists clamouring for it regardless.

MoveMent Self-winding Valjoux chronograph 7753 with 46hour power reserve Case 44mm in titanium, water resistant to 100m strap Black leather strap priCe RM29,400

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Top Notes

Headlining BaselWorld in this new watch year are never-before-seen complications, classical revivals, acts of sheer horological audacity, and more astonishing feats Words Celine Yap

Sound Quality

Proving to be the ultimate innovator, Breguet introduced a repeater like no other, the Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087 More difficult to produce than even tourbillons, the minute repeater is often regarded as the ultimate complication, one that generations of master watchmakers have sought to perfect. Yet, if there were one watch company that could conceivably reinvent the minute repeater, it would only be Breguet. You see, most brands consider it a major feat if they produced a complication, but not Breguet – Breguet eats complications for breakfast. Tourbillons? Check. Repeaters?

Check. Perpetual Calendars? Check, check, check! And in a myriad permutations to boot.

To reinvent the repeater, Breguet began by changing the initial thought processes involved. Rather than making it the way it has always been made, the manufacture synthesised more than 100,000 different sounds and classified them into categories according to psychoacoustic criteria – sounds that people find pleasant. This list was then narrowed down further and further until about 20 sounds were shortlisted, analysed, and evaluated to identify the two most desirable notes. Only then could Breguet set out to build a watch that delivers this specific sound.

The final result is a repeater that has the most unorthodox gongs the watch world has ever seen. Rectangular in profile and made in gold, they don’t encircle the movement, but rather, follow an eccentric path. They are clamped to the radiating bezel, which vibrates along with the gongs to further amplify the strikes.

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This radiating bezel allows the watch to achieve a wider range of sound, and an impressive 60 decibels, thanks in part to the vertical hammers. In ordinary repeaters, hammers strike horizontally, but here they strike upwards, which very efficiently transform mechanical vibrations into sound waves.

This watch also borrows from an earlier Breguet timepiece, the Classique La Musicale 7800, which had a membrane over the entire case back, linked to the bezel. This membrane vibrates the air in the acoustic cavity between it and the case back, increasing the volume of the sound while reducing interference from the striking mechanism.

In this timepiece, Breguet chose sapphire crystal as the material for the membrane, so as not to obscure the movement. Another feature inspired by the La Musicale is the magnetic governor, which is superior to, say, a centrifugal governor in that it is impervious to the laws of friction.

Upping the ante is a tourbillon regulator with silicon escapement and balance spring, and also a chain-driven striking mechanism that harks back to old 19th century pocket watches, specifically, the No. 160 made by A.L. Breguet for Marie Antoinette. Whether viewed from the front or back, reference 7087 is a stunning timepiece and an impressive creation by the one-and-only Breguet.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre 565DR tourbillon minute repeater with 80-hour power reserve Case 44mm in rose or white gold strap Brown or black alligator leather priCe RM1,570,000

TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg repeaters typically have a buffer spring to prevent the vibrating gongs from being struck twice.

However, the downside of this component is that it also dampens the emitted sound, as it comes into play before the hammers strike, and thus reduces the hammer’s force. Breguet eliminated this problem with its patented semiactive buffers, which are essentially articulated dampers that are synchronised with the strikes of the hammers.

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TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg the tourbillon and carrousel are separately powered by individual barrels wound through the crown. turning the crown, however, simultaneously winds both barrels, thanks to a toothed ring encircling the movement. in addition, there are two differential gears, one to average the rates of the two regulators, and another to manage the power reserve indication (on the back).

dramatic EntrancE

The Blancpain L-Evolution Tourbillon Carrousel puts a futuristic spin on a recent classic favourite Not many watch companies are capable of producing their own tourbillons, and fewer still have mastered the carrousel in addition to the tourbillon. Only one manufacture in the world has successfully married both complications in one movement: Blancpain. The L-evolution Tourbillon Carrousel, however, isn’t the first watch bestowed with this one-of-a-kind movement. Two years ago, Blancpain already launched the Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel.

Arguably, though, the L-evolution model is very much its own distinct creature, as it has been completely redesigned. Where before there were classic codes and traditional decoration, now there are harsh angles and bold finishes. The movement had also been skeletonised and the carrousel and tourbillon cages have been given a futuristic twist, as have the hours and minutes hands. It’s like the Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel, but pumped full of steroids.

The movement within, Calibre 2322V2, can be admired on both sides. given a NAC coating on top of the frosted finish, the bridges and plates are held together with hexagonal screws that underscore its dynamic design. Indeed, never before had there been a more hyper122

aggressive Blancpain timepiece. This watch takes no prisoners, not with hands that look like deadly weapons, and a case built like a tank.

No details were spared in the conceptualisation of this new design. Turn the watch around to look at the gear wheels, each one skeletonised with the same angular style echoing the bridges. Its monochromatic colour scheme benefits from the copious jewels studded all around – gentle reminders that, futuristic as it looks, this is still an offspring of traditional high watchmaking. Cutting edge would be an apt description of this timepiece, as well as the processes used to make it. The lyre-shaped carrousel cage, in particular, was made using a laser cutting process, which is impressive considering the minute dimensions of the component. As a matter of fact, this is a first for the manufacture. All these have raised the height of the movement by 1.35mm, but no one seems to mind, and understandably so, since more heft is always welcome with sports watches.

MoveMent Manual-winding Calibre 2322V2 tourbillon carrousel movement with 70-hour power reserve Case 47.4mm in platinum, water resistant to 30m strap Black alligator leather with platinum deployant buckle priCe RM1,192,000

basel RepoRt | HigHligHts

liQuid aSSEt

HYT combines its signature hydro-mechanical technology with a novel time display in the new H3 Avant-garde horologist hYT continues its winning streak with fluorescent liquid display, but this time, it’s got even more creative juices flowing. Where its first two models had the luminescent fluid encircling the dial to display the hours, the h3 features a linear hour display using the familiar transparent capillary tube with two reservoirs, one at each end, containing a fluorescent aqueous solution and a transparent viscous solution. It animates the liquid with a system of two bellows, which exert a hydraulic force into the capillary. The bellows, positioned on either side of the case above the capillary, are driven by a system of pistons, which are, in turn, driven mechanically by cams. Those cams are connected to wheels that rotate with energy supplied by the mainspring.

The next most prominent new feature of the h3 is the absence of an hour hand. In its place, a rotating three-dimensional device works together with the fluorescent liquid display to give the time. Composed of six cubes, each one imprinted with four numerals, this device turns semi-instantaneously on a horizontal axis four times a day. The fluorescent liquid proceeds from left to right highlighting the prevailing hour. Once it reaches the end of the capillary – this is also when the

device is about to rotate – the transparent liquid pushes it back to its reservoir. At the same time, energy stored in the bellows provides the force needed by the device to make its switch.

In line with (pun, as always, fully intended) the watch’s linear orientation, its minutes are read off a graduated rule marked from zero to 60. A red coloured twin articulated arm traverses the rule, animated by a retrograde mechanism, which brings it from 60 to zero instantaneously. Although it may look complex, setting the time on this timepiece is as simple as a push of a button (located on the left flank of the case) to rotate the hour cubes and a turn of the crown to define the exact hour and minutes. One of the most ingenious aspects of all hYT watches is how the fluid always does as it is commanded. According to the brand, the insides of the capillary are specially coated so the fluorescent liquid does not leave trails on the sides as it moves to and MoveMent Manual-winding exclusive hYT movement with threedimensional hour display using hydro-mechanical technology, retrograde minutes, and seven-day or 170-hour power reserve Case 62mm X 41mm in charcoal grey PVD-coated titanium and platinum with a micro-blasted satin finish, water resistant to 30m strap Black alligator leather with charcoal grey PVD-coated titanium folding buckle priCe Unavailable

TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg Bellows is a device designed to pump out strong, sharp bursts of air. in HYt’s watches, it is used to manipulate the forward-backward motion of the two liquids within the capillary, and they are made of a highly resistant, flexible electro-deposited alloy.

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induStrial inSpiration

Reprising the steampunk theme for its latest tourbillon, Romain Jerome indulges in a little fantasy Never one for subtlety, Romain Jerome has carved a unique niche for itself by borrowing from humanity’s most prominent milestones.

Indeed, modern history has proven to be a fecund source of inspiration for the young watch company. After the Titanic, the Moon, and Iceland’s famous volcano with the unpronounceable name, Romain Jerome carries on with its swashbuckling ways, arriving at the steampunk subgenre, which is so richly evocative of the Industrial Age. Design codes from this wondrous era led to a full collection of Steampunk models including a self-winding model, a chronograph, and a tourbillon, all unified by a set of four pistons incorporated into the movement. This year, Romain Jerome kicked things up a few notches with a new tourbillon model that truly embraces the steampunk concept.

The Steampunk Tourbillon gunmetal is not so much a high complication as it is a high concept timepiece with a complication.

Lavishly designed with a slew of tinkering and tinker-able components, this is the kind of watch that would literally provide hours of fun, and photos don’t do it the justice that it deserves because its most fascinating feature is the large titanium piston at nine o’clock that reciprocates with the help of a wheel, piston rod, and a crankshaft.

As it moves up and down every 60 seconds, the piston echoes the graceful motion of the off-centred tourbillon, which steadily rotates about the fixed fourth wheel. Maritime touches appear in the form of an anchor-shaped tourbillon carriage and hours and minutes hands that recall a historical vessel’s instruments. Most redolent of all is the power reserve indicator, which resembles the lever that regulates the speed on a steam-powered boat.

More details can be found on the back of the watch, including an anchor-shaped component with Côtes de genève decoration that secures the tourbillon cage to the main plate, and circular brushing on the barrel cap and winding mechanism, but only the most gimlet-eyed would notice the unusual finish of the watch’s gunmetal steel bezel.

Looking weathered and almost rough-hewn, it had been brushed by hand and sports irregular brush strokes that reinforce the watch’s raw and rugged persona.

TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg a piston is a moving component typically used to derive or impart motion. in the instance of this timepiece, it converts a rotational motion to a vertical one, not unlike its function in an internal combustion engine.

MoveMent Manually-wound tourbillon movement with 48-hour power reserve Case 50mm in black PVD-coated steel and titanium with gunmetal bezel, water resistant to 30m strap Black hornback alligator with folding clasp in black PVDcoated satin-brushed steel priCe RM310,300 (25 pieces)

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muSic to thE EyES

As far as complications go, the Raymond Weil Nabucco Cello Tourbillon plays to its own rhythm A keen arbiter of the performing arts, Raymond Weil constantly finds inspiration from the rich universes of opera, theatre, and symphony.

Whether it’s the Parsifal or the Maestro, the Toccata or the Tango, a Raymond Weil watch immortalises the beauty of ephemeral art forms, and the Nabucco line, inspired by giuseppe Verdi’s famous opera, is no exception. This year’s latest creation, the Nabucco Cello Tourbillon, brought the collection to a horological crescendo with a most original interpretation of the traditional high complication.

Of all the stringed instruments in the world, Raymond Weil chose the cello as the motif for this watch, and this was by no means a random decision. CeO of Raymond Weil, elie Bernheim, has been an avid cellist since he was a kid, and the Nabucco Cello Tourbillon is the masterpiece that marries two great loves of his: Watchmaking and classical music. As a matter of fact, Bernheim’s whole family professes a love of this art form. his grandfather, the eponymous Raymond Weil, and father, Olivier Bernheim, had both been instrumental in cultivating a love for music and theatre in him.

Drawing design cues directly from a cello, the watch’s main highlight is its mesmerising movement construction. The main plate had been machined out of steel to resemble the strings of a cello, flanked by two bridges crafted in the shape of f-holes. One is responsible for securing the mainspring, while the other acts as the bridge for the tourbillon. Black finished, the ‘strings’ and the bridges stand out prominently against the other stainless steel components.

Only one other part shines through the monochromatic colour palette: The escape wheel. Shimmering in brilliant blue and purple hues, it is made of silicon and lends a technical touch to the watch. The movement was made for Raymond Weil by the movement specialist, Tec ebauches, and the watch is delivered in a custom-created box that echoes the watch’s cello-inspired design.

MoveMent Manually-wound Calibre RW1842 movement with tourbillon and 105-hour power reserve Case 46mm in titanium with black PVD-coated polished steel and carbon fibre, water resistant to 200m strap Black niloticus crocodile leather with titanium and polished steel folding clasp priCe Unavailable

TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg silicon as a material for escape wheels have increased in traction, with more watch manufactures adopting this new technology. the benefits of a silicon escape wheel are plenteous, including hardness, anti-magnetism, lightness, and temperature resistance. silicon can also be manufactured to very precise shapes, more so than steel or brass components, using high-tech production methods like Drie and LiGa.

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prEciSion rulES

Ever the innovator, Breguet presents a unique chronograph configuration in the Tradition Chronographe Indépendent 7077 Much loved for its iconic open-worked architecture, the Tradition collection has long been one of haute horlogerie’s most prominent bastions of watchmaking excellence. Reminiscent of A. L. Breguet’s legendary souscription watches, this watch is lovingly defined by an off-centred dial decorated with traditional clous de Paris and a unique architecture that reinforces its technical nature.

The new Tradition Chronographe Indépendent 7077 stays faithful to this aesthetic, but also manages to offer an unprecedented construction for the chronograph.

To begin, it combines two separate regulation devices, one for the time-telling function of the watch, and another for the chronograph. The balance wheel on the right, beating at a frequency of 3hz, fulfils the time-telling role while the one on the left made in titanium and beating at 5hz is responsible for the chronograph. By having two separate gear trains, Breguet has cleanly circumvented the age-old problem of amplitude drop and rate disturbance. According to the manufacture, a 5hz frequency (36,000vph) is ideal for more precise readings and improved stability of rate.

What is also especially innovative about the Tradition Chronographe Indépendent 7077 is the power mechanism driving the high frequency gear train. Instead of a traditional second mainspring, Breguet implements an energy accumulator, which gets its power each time the chronograph resets to zero.

This component, effectively a flexed blade spring, keeps the chronograph going for a maximum of 20 minutes – not especially long, but long enough nonetheless – and the 20-minute counter at 10 o’clock displays each elapsed minute.

Operating this watch is a little different from classic two-button chronographs. The button at four o’clock starts the function and the one at eight stops and resets. each time the chronograph is reset to zero, it causes the blade spring to flex, storing the energy required for the next round of timekeeping.

Breguet’s technical ingenuity is clearly evident here, as in addition to the blade spring, the balance wheel is flanked by brakes that control its start-stop motion. Both work together to ensure that the balance wheel is always poised at 180 degrees for maximum amplitude when the chronograph starts. Turning the watch over reveals an anchor-shaped device that recalls the historical Breguet reference 4009 double-second observation timer.

TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg the blade spring is connected to its own going train, which is non-concentric so as to even out the torque and achieve constant force, amplitude, and rate.

Breguet has filed a patent for this entire assembly. the balance wheel here has been made in titanium in order to keep the symmetry of the movement, as a heavier material would necessitate a smaller diameter.

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MoveMent Manually-wound Calibre 580DR chronograph movement with double oscillators and 50-hour power reserve Case 44mm in white or rose gold, water resistant to 30m strap Black or brown leather priCe RM271,500 (white gold) RM268,700 (rose gold)

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lEt Fly

Patek Philippe takes a stab at aviator watches with the Ref. 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Patek Philippe is well known for a great many things, like classic, timeless watches, high or grand complications, and even luxury sports watches. It is, however, most certainly not known for making pilot’s watches. But now it is. Indisputably, the biggest surprise of the 2015 BaselWorld is the Patek Philippe Ref. 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, a watch that Patek Philippe president, Thierry Stern, has said was made because “it would be nice to have a pilot’s watch in the collection.”

Being an independent watch company, it was his prerogative – fair enough – but of course, try not to forget that Patek Philippe also has the perfect movement for an aviation timepiece, Calibre 324 S C FUS. To Stern’s benefit, he did create a beautiful watch, and to the legions of Patek Philippe aficionados around the world, Stern has shown, once again, that the manufacture is always capable of surprises.

The second time zone function is, without doubt, the most useful

one for aviators and busy travellers, even more so than world timers, as a matter of fact. User-friendliness ranks high for this category of watches, as does legibility, and this timepiece checks all the right boxes.

It is simple to operate – just push the two buttons on the left side of the case to adjust the home time forwards or backwards – and clearly displays home and local time including day/night indication. Patek Philippe also threw in an analogue date display, which is coupled with local time. This is a big plus especially when you will be crossing the International Date Line.

But what separates this watch from other aviation type watches is the commitment to quality – a natural trait of all Patek Philippe watches.

To prevent degradation of amplitude and preserve the accuracy of the movement, there is an isolator that decouples the time zone mechanism from the going train. This device was patented by Patek Philippe in 1996. As promised by the Patek Philippe seal, this watch has an average accuracy of -3/+2 seconds per day. The pushers are also equipped with a patent pending safety lock. To activate them, you would first have to twist them with a quarter turn to release the catch.

TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg patek philippe established its own quality standards in 2009. Movements are tested both before and after being cased.

Movements larger than 20mm should be accurate to -3/+2 seconds per day, and those smaller than 20mm, accurate to -5/+4 seconds. all parts are meticulously finished and decorated according to a strict set of criteria, and all finished watches have been designed to be as thin as is conceivably possible for optimal technical performance and energy efficiency.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre Ch 324 S C FUS with two time zones, day/night indication, and 45-hour power reserve Case 42mm in white gold, water resistant to 30m strap Vintage brown calfskin with prong buckle in white gold priCe RM147,900

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TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg omega’s “Co-axial Master Chronometer” reflects the fact it is Metas-certified. this is distinguished from “Master Co-axial Chronometer” watches like the seamaster aquaterra Master Coaxial or the seamaster 300, which are antimagnetic but did not go through Metas testing. omega will continually offer both options.

SubtlE touch

Beneath the placid aesthetic of the Omega Globemaster CoAxial Master Chronometer lies cutting-edge technology and luxury watchmaking’s most stringent quality assurance Co-axial escapements, silicon hairsprings, anti-magnetic cases, and top notch timekeeping precision… Omega is on a roll. In fact, technology appears to be the single most powerful driving force behind its watchmaking endeavours of late. And as proof of how confident it is about its own movements, Omega is the only watch company that offers a four-year warranty on all its Co-Axial and Master Co-Axial movements. Still, it’s not enough and the quest continues. The manufacture had announced towards the end of 2014 that it has established a new certification process with the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (MeTAS) intended for all of its Master Co-Axial calibres, and the first results of this strategic partnership can be found in Omega’s new globemaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer.

The Omega MeTAS certification is based on eight criteria: Function of the movement after exposure to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss, function of the fully assembled watch after exposure to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss, deviation of the average daily precision of the watch after exposure to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss, deviation of the running time of the watch in six positions, 128

deviation of the running time between zero and two-thirds reserve power, average daily precision of the watch in tests replicating daily wearing conditions, power reserve of the watch, and water resistance.

The movement powering the globemaster is Omega’s new Calibre 8900/8901, which incidentally is also COSC certified. essentially, before a watch goes for MeTAS testing, it must first be a chronometer. On the back, a medallion with eight stars symbolise the eight MeTAS criteria as well as eight of the most important precision records held by Omega in its history. Probably the most significant thing to remember is that this watch is the first one ever to be certified a master chronometer.

Omegamaniacs would also identify strongly with the globemaster’s design. Two elements stand out most prominently: The facetted dial so lovingly nicknamed pie-pan, and the fluted bezel typically found on vintage Constellation models.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre 8901 Master Chronometer movement with 60-hour power reserve Case 39mm in Sedna gold, yellow gold, or stainless steel with bicolour options available, water resistant to 100m strap Brown leather with foldover clasp priCe From XXX (steel) to XXX (platinum)

bubbling ovEr

Corum revived one of modern watchmaking’s best-loved alternative classics, the Bubble Watch

TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg extremely difficult to machine, slabs of transparent sapphire crystal are first cut into manageable blocks, and then ground into a bubble-like curved shape, before being polished to perfection. Because sapphire crystal is so hard, it can only be cut by diamond-tipped tools, which is a highly challenging process even with flat crystals, much less for this spherical shape.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre CO 082 movement with 42-hour power reserve Case 47mm in stainless steel with or without PVD coating, water resistant to 100m strap Alligator leather and rubber with tongue buckle priCe From RM14,000 to RM34,000

When choosing a watch, most people pay special attention to comfort and wearability. At first glance, the Corum heritage Bubble does not appear to offer that because of its oversized domed sapphire crystal. Still, it remains one of the most collectible watches in modern watchmaking, and it is not that uncomfortable to wear. historically, the Bubble Watch made its mark in the year 2000 as the most radical watch of the year. It was the brainchild of then-owner Severin Wunderman, who found the inspiration to design this watch after seeing the double crystal used in deep sea diving instruments. Wunderman, however, wasn’t looking to produce a tool watch for extreme conditions; his intention was to make something fun, creative, and unique. By all accounts, he has certainly achieved this goal. Along with the Bubble, Corum has consistently released such one-of-a-kind watches like the Rolls-Royce as well as the golden Bridge.

The Bubble Watch’s unorthodox design is mainly attributed to the sapphire crystal, which, in this latest incarnation, is a whopping 8mm in thickness. Acting as a lens, it adds a whimsical effect to the watch, simultaneously magnifying and distorting the dial. To make things even more interesting, Corum adorned the dial with a special art work inspired by the masterpieces of hungarian-born French artist Victor Vasarely, who founded the Op Art movement. The special edition models have dials decorated with squares in graduated sizes that trick the eye and give the impression of movement, while the regular collection timepieces boasts a skeletonised movement. even the hands and hour numerals echo the Bubble’s rotund styling.

Altogether, the watch stands at 18.8mm, but it is completely suited to the wrist thanks to short curved lugs. Indeed, in spite of its heft and 47mm case, the heritage Bubble is light on the wrist. Corum had also retained the use of a rubber-ringed spherical crown, just like the original pieces.

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thE vEry bESt

Rolex debuts a completely new movement in a timeless classic, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 A new Day-Date model joins the gargantuan Oyster Perpetual family, but this handsome newcomer definitely isn’t one to be trifled with.

Beating within its 40mm case is the all-new Rolex Calibre 3255, which is armed to the teeth with unprecedented technical upgrades. greater in terms of precision, power reserve, reliability, and resistance to shock and magnetism, this movement sets new standards of performance like no other. A total of 14 patents are pending for Calibre 3255 and more than 90 per cent of its components are completely new. That’s Rolex for you – always making things better.

For a start, the Day-Date is COSC-certified, but in reality it is twice as precise as a regular chronometer. This is because after getting

the movement tested by COSC, Rolex encased it and does its own tests. It owes its 70 hours of power reserve – one of Rolex’s longest – to several innovative mechanisms, one of which is the high-capacity barrel that has thinner walls to accommodate a larger mainspring. This alone adds 10 hours of power reserve. Also, the winding mechanism had been given reversing wheels for faster and more efficient bidirectional winding. The gear train is also more efficient, thanks to high-performance lubricants synthesised by Rolex. Finally and most importantly, the all-new Chronergy escapement improves energy efficiency by 15 per cent.

Rolexaholics who have a soft spot for the President bracelet, feel free to kvell in its glorification here. After all, it was created specially for the Day-Date when it was first introduced in 1956. In other words, no other Rolex bracelet would suit this watch more than the President bracelet. Furthermore, this is a new design that includes ceramic inserts inside the links for enhanced suppleness and durability. enlivening the watch is a range of new dials laser-etched with creative motifs and finished with the traditional sunray effect.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre 3255 with day-date function and 70-hour power reserve Case 40mm in platinum, white, yellow, or everose gold strap President bracelet with concealed folding Crownclasp priCe Unavailable

TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg Compared to the traditional swiss lever escapement, Chronergy features thinner pallet stones and bigger teeth for the escape wheel. also, the entire system is not in-line, but slightly offset, which multiplies the lever effect.

Finally, the escape wheel has a cut-out design that makes it lighter and reduces its inertia. the escape wheel is made of nickel phosphorus and the process used to fabricate it is LiGa.

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TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg Beating to a frequency of 28,800vph, or 4Hz, Calibre Mt5612 is regulated by a variable inertia oscillator with silicon balance spring, held in place by a traversing bridge fixed at both ends to improve resistance to shock and vibrations. it also has a bi-directional winding system.

at World’S End

Equipped with robust materials and an in-house movement, the new Tudor North Flag knows no limits Marvin gaye’s evergreen hit song comes to mind when contemplating the Tudor North Flag, cos baby there ain’t no mountain high enough, ain’t no valley low enough, ain’t no river wide enough, and if we may add, there ain’t no climate cold enough for this intrepid timepiece.

Indeed, this watch is rooted in the coldest and most remote extremities of the planet, so the cold doesn’t bother it anyway. echoing the aesthetics of the gauges, tools, and instruments used in the early 1950s by members of the British North greenland expedition, the North Flag takes its no-nonsense, scientific design one step further by beefing up on performance. The basis of its augmentation is a new in-house Tudor manufactured movement, Calibre MT5612.

The performance-oriented Calibre MT5612 sets a new milestone for Tudor. It is the first Tudor in-house manufactured movement as well as the first COSC-certified Tudor product. Before this, Tudor habitually uses eTA movements, which are as reliable as they are robust – two qualities that Calibre MT5612 made sure to preserve. Its relatively long power reserve of 70 hours is also unprecedented with the brand, and can be clearly read off the gauge-like display at nine o’clock.

Other than the power reserve, a date aperture, the hour indices and numerals, and of course, the watch’s hands, very little else occupy the dial, yielding a highly legible design that reinforces the ‘toolish look’ that Tudor was gunning for.

Other aesthetic touches keep in line with this approach. Its middle case is angular and satin-finished, contrasting with its polished bevels. A conical crown improves ergonomics, while highlighting the watch’s utilitarian nature. Finally, the bezel is composed of two elements: matte ceramic visible on the side and brushed steel on the top. Also, the sapphire case back puts on full display the chronometer movement inside. Industrially finished, Calibre MT5612 is embellished with sandblasted or sunray-brushed surfaces and an open-worked central rotor.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre MT5612 COSC-certified movement with 70-hour power reserve Case 40mm in satin-finished stainless steel, water resistant to 100m strap Satin-finished stainless steel bracelet or black leather with yellow stitching and yellow leather lining with folding clasp and safety catch priCe RM12,380 (strap) RM12,740 (bracelet)

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TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg Drie, or deep reactiveion etching, is a chemical process that removes layers from a silicon wafer, forming the desired shape. the resulting components can be in any shape or form, with high aspect ratios, or great depth with a very narrow width. Drie allows for precisely shaped parts in complex shapes, made in enormous quantities but exactly alike.

anchorS aWEigh

Friction and gravity are two natural adversaries for watchmakers, but the Ulysse Nardin Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon f lies in the face of these natural forces Practically the poster boy for cutting-edge manufacturing technologies like DRIe and futuristic materials like silicon, no watch company today has more credibility in this arena than Ulysse Nardin.

So when something like the Ulysse Anchor escapement took it two years shy of a decade to produce, you know that it isn’t something you’re going to sneeze at. First unveiled in 2014, the Ulysse Anchor escapement, showcased with a tourbillon regulator, now exists in a full timepiece that truly befits its haute horlogerie stature. The Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon is the watch that every watch geek had been waiting for.

As featured in WOW’s BaselWorld 2014 report, the Ulysse Anchor escapement is a constant force escapement relying on a completely new architecture based on the principle of flexible mechanisms exploiting the elasticity of flat springs. It has a circular frame with its pallet fork fixed in the centre, supported by two blade springs less than a tenth of the thickness of a single strand of hair.

The bending forces of the blades curves and maintains them in a bi-static state, providing a consistent degree of force at a stable rate.

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Instead of implementing a traditional constant force device, Ulysse Nardin achieves the same effect by simply improving the geometry of the escapement. Naturally, the entire structure is made in silicon using the DRIe process. The Ulysse Anchor escapement is also completely lubrication free as its pallet fork moves without friction.

To be more specific, the Ulysse Anchor escapement boasts increased efficiency thanks to an integral resetting face of the pallet fork. This is the point that meets the teeth of the escape wheel, and after they meet, the pallet fork returns to an optimum position.

Thereafter, the balance wheel only needs to exert little energy to push the pallet fork back, and the positive energy that remains goes on to maintain the oscillations of the balance wheel at a constant rate.

By achieving constant force using the escapement, the twin barrels can also be fully exploited, and together they power the watch for a maximum of seven days.

MoveMent Manually-wound Calibre UN-178 tourbillon movement with constant force silicon escapement, and seven-day power reserve Case 44mm in white or rose gold, water resistant to 30m strap Black or brown leather with simple buckle priCe Unavailable

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opEn concEpt

A new era has dawned for TAG Heuer, and the Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 is its leading torchbearer The chronograph has always had a special place in TAg heuer’s mechanical heart. After all, its founder, edouard heuer, did invent and patent the oscillating pinion stopwatch in 1887. This momentous occasion was the driving force behind the company’s launch of the Calibre 1887 chronograph in 2010. This year, this much-celebrated chronograph would hand the torch over to a brand new one that embodies the road ahead for this vibrant watch company.

The Carrera Calibre heuer 01 obviously pays tribute to edouard heuer, and it is the first among many more to come. Based on the Calibre 1887, its chronograph movement is column wheel driven, engaged by an oscillating pinion mechanism, unlike the more commonly found lateral or vertical clutch chronographs. In terms of design, though, it is a completely different animal.

Its open-worked dial reveals some of the movement’s components, most prominently, the skeletonised date disc that injects a strong element of technicality. Alternating silver and black chronograph sub-dials also play up the watch’s sporty personality, while racy red details on the indices, some hands, and the date aperture draws it close to the world of auto-racing – precisely what the Carrera is all about. having a tachymeter around the bezel

didn’t hurt as well. Through the sapphire case back, the red column wheel emphasises TAg heuer’s devotion to this classic complication. even the case is chock full of technical details.

Crafted in titanium carbide-coated steel, it is now designed with multiple parts instead of the monobloc construction of the past. Completely modular with 12 different components, it affords a range of possibilities with different materials, colours, treatments, and finishes. here, the bezel features an anthracite finish, as do the protectors for the chronograph pushpieces. The crown has been fluted for better traction and echoes the black-silver colour scheme.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre heuer 01 chronograph movement with 50-hour power reserve Case 45mm in steel, water resistant to 100m strap Perforated rubber with deployant buckle and safety push-buttons priCe RM19,150

TeChNICALLY SPeAkINg oscillating pinion chronographs differ from lateral or vertical clutch chronographs. this system uses a mobile stem and two pinions instead of wheels. When timekeeping starts, stops, or resets, the stem rocks back and forth, coupling and decoupling the chronograph mechanism from the gear train. this configuration is also known for operational accuracy, thus guaranteeing timekeeping accuracy.

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Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II

Timely Celebration

It’s red-letter day for a host of brands this year, and for eager watch buyers, this means new limited editions to look forward to Words Ruckdee chotjinda

STRIKING PERSONA

In The Spotlight: Zenith Number of Years: 150

Zenith was founded by Georges Favre-Jacot in 1865 with an aim to house all watch production processes in a single manufacture. Official use of the name Zenith, the highest point in the sky and the guiding star logo, followed only later in 1911. Its most notable innovations in the perception of today’s watch buyers remain the El Primero – the world’s first integrated self-winding chronograph movement that was launched in 1969 – and the Elite ultra-thin movement, which was introduced in 1994. Watches powered by both movements often come in very different guises, but are all equally appealing.

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A number of very impressive models were delivered by Zenith on the occasion of its 150th anniversary. The Elite 6150 is the least complicated of all, but that is not to say it is in any way unsophisticated. This three-hand model is brought to life by an ultrathin movement slightly larger in diameter than its 1994 predecessor, but still squeezes in at only 3.92 mm thick despite its self-winding movement with a power reserve of 100 hours. Whether or not the 42mm case is welcome news, the overall clean and classical design checks all the right boxes; the richness afforded by a clean, sober dial is always a joy to admire.

Next up on the scale of complexity is the El Primero Sport watch which took aesthetic cues from the original El Primero chronograph watch from 1969. Billed by its maker as “the quintessential sports

El Primero sport

Elite 6150

chronograph�, this sturdy stainless steel watch houses the universally respected, high-beat El Primero movement with a power reserve of 50 hours. The sturdy 45mm stainless steel case has its water tightness ensured by the use of screw-down crown and push buttons. It is complemented perfectly by the matching stainless steel bracelet, attached to the tapered lugs that follow the curves of the domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides.

As a further guarantee of Zenith’s inventiveness, the company has released the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II as the culmination of its anniversary celebration. This grand attempt at superb accuracy has brought together optimal devices at both ends of the drivetrain. A fusÊe-chain system ensures constant transmission of power, while a gyroscopic device built on the basis of gimbal suspension of marine chronometers keeps the regulating organ of the movement virtually always in a horizontal position with the natural effect of gravity.

Its mechanical ingenuity is augmented by an artistic touch, most notably on the back of the movement where a miniature painting of the arrival of Christopher Columbus to the newly discovered land resides.

Brandishing the flag of the Spanish monarchy on the right side, Columbus is depicted alongside natives who received him with local fruits and a parrot on the left. The three ships used in the voyage are visible at the top. Cigar aficionados will also be delighted to learn that the mahogany box that the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II is delivered in doubles as a humidor for 80 cigars.

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ROMAN ELEGANCE

In The Spotlight: Bulgari Roma Number of Years: 40 While it is quite easy to name some of the watch industry’s ‘firsts’, not everyone will be able to say, off the top of their heads, which watch brand was the first to engrave its name on the case of watch. That honour goes to Bulgari. The engraving of ‘Bulgari’ and ‘Roma’ on the eponymous timepiece in 1975 has earned it that status, according to its brand literature.

This year marks the fourth decade of the Bulgari Roma (a collection built on the majestic image of Roman architecture and inscription on ancient coins) and the Bulgari Roma Finissimo 40th Anniversary is one of the models released to mark this occasion.

Designed with full respect to the collection’s DNA since 1975, this 136

timepiece in yellow gold, pink gold, or stainless steel measures 41mm, and tells the time with a dial that would have been utterly austere if not for the small seconds sub-dial at seven o’clock. The ultra-thin, handwinding movement makes it possible for the watch to remain only 5.15mm thick, while offering a power reserve of 65 hours as shown by an indicator on the case back.

Ladies will be delighted to see the enchanting Bulgari Roma Tubogas. In addition to the regular Bulgari Roma aesthetics, this enchanting timepiece is enhanced by the integration of the brand’s Tubogas bracelet in stainless steel and pink gold, echoing the pink gold bezel on top of a 26mm stainless steel case. The lovely combination is complemented by the warmth of a dark brown lacquer dial with sunray finish and 12 brilliant-cut diamonds for the hour markers. Perfect fit is ensured with two bracelets sizes – 125mm and 145mm. Limited to 1,975 numbered pieces.

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SEAMLESS TRANSITION

In The Spotlight: Girard-Perregaux 1945 Number of Years: 70 For a 70-year-old watch, the Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 fares very well in terms of integration into contemporary society. This distinctly Art Deco timepiece was created for the American market in 1945 in response to the transition from pocket watches to wristwatches. Its design was revitalised half a century later as the Vintage 1945 watch of today, with a curved sapphire crystal, dial, and case. Sublime models followed with a range of functions including calendar, chronograph, tourbillon, and even a fully functional slot machine in the Vintage 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon model.

Two limited edition watches have been released on the occasion of its 70th anniversary. The Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Small Second 70th Anniversary Edition bears striking similarities to the original model, beginning with the twotoned case in stainless steel and pink gold. The 36.20 x 35.25mm dimension is not oversized in the first place. However, together with the curvature along the vertical and horizontal planes, the watch naturally becomes an extension of the wrist.

The 12 hours are played out within the rectangular frame of pink gold bezel.

Applied numerals are fashioned in pink gold colour, as are the sharp dauphine hands, which are also curved according to the angle of the dial. The watch has a small seconds indication at six o’clock to preserve absolute symmetry. All commemorative logo and writings are thankfully relegated to the case back, leaving the dial immaculate. This watch is powered by a self-winding GP03300-0051 movement with 46-hour power reserve, and like the original design, paired with a brown strap, although in alligator leather this time.

Vintage 1945 Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges 70 th Anniversary Edition

Deep-pocketed followers of GirardPerregaux should not look past the Vintage 1945 Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges 70th Anniversary Edition in white gold, with and without diamonds. Combining iconic design with historic architecture, this is a perfect synthesis of some unmistakable GP legends.

Back in the 19th century, Constant GirardPerregaux experimented with movement designs and came up with a way to use three arrow-shaped bridges to hold the barrel, the gears, and the tourbillon in alignment on the same axis. His tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges eventually won the gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1889.

18 examples of Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges 70th Anniversary Edition are handmade in white gold with eight more adorned with 5.72 carats of baguette-cut diamonds. Complemented with a black alligator leather strap, both versions feature expertly chamfered pink gold bridges and the anniversary case back.

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WITH A BANG

In The Spotlight: Hublot Big Bang Number of Years: 10 Hublot celebrates the 10th anniversary of its Big Bang collection with a host of special anniversary models developed to highlight its penchant for the perfect fusion between traditional watchmaking and futuristic material science.

The Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold is presented as one of the most scratch resistant gold watches in the market. This is only possible due to the use of Magic Gold – a proprietary 18K gold developed over a period of three years by Hublot and Swiss Federal Institute of Technology – whose hardness rating is close to 1,000 Vickers or double that of regular 18K gold. The watch is powered by the UNICO in-house flyblack chronograph movement with 72 hours of power reserve.

Sporting the same material is the Big Bang Tourbillon 5-Day Power Reserve Indicator Full Magic Gold. At 45mm, this highly technical sports watch is certainly no wallflower as it brazenly shows off the mechanical innards of its hand-wound skeleton movement, tempting all to take a closer look. A one-minute tourbillon measuring 13.6mm takes pride of place at six o’clock, accompanied by a power reserve counter at nine o’clock.

Lastly, to make things even more exceptional, four variations of the Big Bang Unico Haute Joaillerie are offered. Using a 45mm white gold case as the canvas, they come set with either 558 black or white baguette-cut diamonds, 492 white baguette-cut diamonds with 66 blue sapphires, or 492 white baguette-cut diamonds with 66 red rubies. Suffice to say, the caratage of these watches are simply mindboggling. Three techniques were used, which include invisible setting, Clou de Paris setting, and rail setting. A total of 350 hours is required to complete the setting of each watch. They are powered by the same UNICO movement as the Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold and are water resistant to 30m.

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Big Bang Tourbillon 5-day Power reserve Indicator Full Magic Gold

DEEPLY HONOURED

In The Spotlight: Seiko Diver Number of Years: 50 Seiko unveiled its first ever diver’s watch in 1965, following a request from a Hiroshima-based professional diver who needed a watch that was strong enough to withstand the pressure down below. That first model was rated to only 150m, but it wasn’t long before 300m, 600m, and 1,000m models followed.

Celebrating half a century of Seiko’s diver’s watch production this year are two 1,000m models. The more distinctive of the two is the Marinemaster Professional 1000m Diver’s SBDX014 whose unusual design cues are consistent with a model from 1975. The titanium inner case with rose gold colour and black hard coating on the bezel is enveloped by a ceramic outer case which improves resistance against shock and minimises unintentional manipulation of the bezel.

Under the protection of sapphire crystal with anti-fogging coating, the hands and markers are coated by the brand’s new Lumibrite material, which glows 60 per cent longer than the previous version. A durable silicone strap makes this watch quite wearable despite its 48.2mm case size.

Readers who prefer a more conventional-looking timepiece can proceed to the Marinemaster Professional 1000m Hi-Beat 36000 Limited Edition SBEX001, also measuring 48.2mm in diameter. It features a one-piece titanium case with no case back for opening.

The architecture, combined with L-shaped gasket, makes the package totally tight against helium. Four screws around the 12 and six o’clock positions secure the rotating bezel in place. In addition to the now brighter Lumibrite, its high-beat, self-winding movement is assembled by the watchmakers at Seiko’s Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio. Only 700 units of this watch in super-hard coating titanium with bracelet will be available worldwide in a presentation box.

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EASTERN PRODIGY

In The Spotlight: Grand Seiko Number of Years: 55 The existence of Grand Seiko is proof that not only the Swiss or Germans can deliver watchmaking excellence. The 55-year-old diffusion label of the main Seiko product line was created in 1960 to offer luxurious, high-performance products of even more exalted aesthetic and technical ideals than what was offered at the time. Not that anything was wrong with regular Seiko watches, though. It is just that the desire to indulge in optimal finishing and precision is simply mutual between the maker and the users.

Today, Grand Seiko has proven that it is more than capable of holding its own against its foreign counterparts. Its watch models are enjoyed by discerning buyers, first in the country where they are created, then in other parts of the world. The Grand Seiko SBGR095 leads the way in this year’s anniversary celebration. A modern recreation of a historical watch, this 37.6 mm model takes after the original 62GS model from 1967 – Grand Seiko’s first automatic offering. Yellow gold, rose gold and white gold options are available with references SBGR092, SBGR094 and SBGR091, respectively.

All are mirror finished with the Zaratsu technique of blade polishing.

All are powered by the same self-winding movement with 72 hours of power reserve, and an average daily rate of +5/-3 seconds per day.

More mechanical variations are offered on this same design for buyers who are not strictly bound by historical specifications. The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 3600 SBGH037 and SBGH039 both use a highfrequency, self-winding movement, which beats at the frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, in a 40 mm stainless steel case with matching bracelet. A Spring Drive option rounds things up for users who demand absolute accuracy of +1/-1 second per day.

This is found in the 40 mm Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA125 and SBGA127 in titanium – the practical choice for the active daily wearer.

A photographic exhibition was also shown at BaselWorld this year, comprising the works of three commissioned Japanese photographers, who share with the world their perspectives of the processes and the people behind the creation of these watches. That is probably the second best way to epitomise the purity and authenticity of Grand Seiko timepieces, next to wearing one on the wrist, of course.

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ACCELERATED PROMINENCE

In The Spotlight: Bell & Ross BR 01 Number of Years: 10

The people at Bell & Ross couldn’t have predicted the phenomenal commercial success of the BR 01 when it was launched one decade ago.

The design is still young in ‘watch years’, but it has already attained the kind of cult status enjoyed by watches three times its age.

Simple but original, the concept at that time was to create a highly legible watch based on the design of cockpit instruments. The intended product is one that can be enjoyed by the general public and utilised by professionals alike. More than 150 variants of the BR 01 have been produced since, many with complications such as chronograph, large date display, power reserve indicator, and even tourbillon, which one must admit are more to the delight of fine timepiece enthusiasts than military aviators.

For the 10th anniversary of the BR 01, Bell & Ross has decided to return to its roots with a time-only model. The BR 01 10th Anniversary’s design harks back to the 2005 original. The key difference is the use of high-tech ceramic for the case. This is the same material that is used in the aerospace sector for heat shields and other sensitive parts because of its ability to withstand high temperatures and exposure to the elements.

The matte black BR 01 10th Anniversary measures 46 x 46mm with hands that are shaped after those of an altimeter. Its Arabic numeral hour markers are rendered in a font similar to that of analogue aviation counters, and are embossed like the other indexes. The 10th Anniversary logo completes the commemorative experience for buyers.

Worn with either black rubber or synthetic canvas strap, it is scratch proof and water resistant up to 100m. Limited to 500 pieces.

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PROLIFIC CATALYST

In The Spotlight: Corum Number of Years: 60

For a brand which evokes the imagery of so many icons, Corum gives the impression of being an entity of much longer existence than 60 years. The company is based in La Chauxde-Fonds, in the Jura mountains, and has been injecting doses of excitement into the watch scene with its innovative designs and technical creativity. Of particular note are such distinctive pieces as the Rolls-Royce and the Feather watches in the 1970s, or the Coin, Golden Bridge, and Bubble watches, which are still produced today in various forms. Few manufactures have such an intoxicating lineup of unique timepieces as Corum.

For its 60th anniversary celebration, however, Corum has chosen an equally worthy model as the platform for its commemorative watch. The Admiral’s Cup is generally defined by its dodecagonal bezel and international maritime signal flags for the hour markers, so this new Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 60th Anniversary Tourbillon is no exception, but it does come with some nice twists.

First of all, this 42mm watch in red gold features a smoked sapphire crystal for a dial instead of a fully transparent one and the signature nautical flags are now executed on the flange instead, and in monochromic transfer.

In addition to the superb contrast against the red gold-coated hands, the translucent material contributes to the loftiness of the movement architecture, where the tourbillon appears as if it is suspended in the air.

In order to see the movement in its all glory, one only needs to turn the watch around. Both the tourbillon and the counterpoised micro rotor are clear to view under the glare-proof sapphire crystal case back. The claimed winding efficiency is such that the watch can run continuously for 72 hours when fully wound, despite the ceaseless functioning of the tourbillon.

The Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 60th Anniversary Tourbillon also indicates the date in an unusual fashion. A sleek retrograde hand is positioned at 12 o’clock to follow the progress of the 31 days, only to jump instantly back to one at the start of a new month. This elegant model is water resistant to 50m and produced in a fitting limited edition of 60 pieces.

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ROCK AND BOLD

In The Spotlight: Hamilton-Elvis Presley Number of Years: 80 Elvis Presley would have had celebrated his 80th birthday earlier this year if he were alive. Back when he played a great role in shaping the American pop culture, he was a watch lover, with several archival photographs confirming his passion. One does not have to look very hard to spot a Hamilton Ventura on his wrist – a common sight reportedly since the filming of the movie Blue Hawaii, hence, its popular moniker “Elvis watch”.

An innovative timepiece in 1957 when it first appeared as the world’s first battery-powered watch, the Hamilton Ventura still looks as futuristic today with its characteristic case shape and dynamic dial design. Models with quartz and self-winding movements are presently produced in various sizes.

They are joined this year by the Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 series of watches, which measure 42.5 x 44.6 mm with a lug width of 22.22 mm.

Self-winding and quartz models are easily distinguished by their respective black PVD and pure stainless steel cases. The former has a power reserve of 80 hours while the latter, in addition to same rubber and leather strap options, comes with a choice of a matching bracelet as well.

The late King of Rock and Roll might not be with us anymore, but his legacy remains, as do these tributes to him.

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25 th Anniversary series Navy sEAL Colormark

MILITARY UNITY

In The Spotlight: Luminox Number of Years: 25 After 25 years in the industry, Luminox remains true to its founding purpose: To produce watches that are legible in low or no light situations. This should be obvious in the Latin words that make up the brand’s name. “Lumi” is Latin for light, while “nox” means night.

But the micro gas capsule illumination technology is only one part of the story. Luminox watches are made to be tough and dependable for use by hardworking people and, of course, law enforcement and military units. In fact, it is the United States Navy SEALs that should be credited with the global fame of Luminox watches. One officer from its Research Development Test and Evaluation branch reportedly discovered Luminox at a trade show and worked with them on the development of the Luminox Navy SEALs watch as we know it today.

Marking the firm’s 25th anniversary this year is the Luminox 25th Anniversary Series of Navy SEAL Colormark timepieces. Based on 144

the 2007 re-interpretation of the original 1989 design, the Navy SEAL Colormark shares the same carbon reinforced polycarbonate material for the case which is enlarged marginally by one millimetre to 44mm, and with slightly thicker numerals all around. Signalling that it’s an anniversary piece is the distinctive dial design featuring a tapestry of “25” and “XXV”. This watch is available in four dial colours – black, blue, yellow, and grey.

Also released at BaselWorld 2015 is the ANU Chronograph 4240 Series of watches for maritime commandos. ANU is the acronym for Authorised for Navy Use, and this quartz chronograph is indeed standard issue for the military operatives. In addition to the unidirectional rotating diver bezel, this model features a chronograph function with a 12-hour totalizer as well as a sub-dial to measure tenths of a second.

This 45mm stainless steel watch with black brushed finish is fitted with anti-reflective sapphire crystal. It is worn securely on the wrist with a rubber strap. Like all other Luminox watches, the ANU Chronograph tells time in complete darkness with the night vision tubes, which are guaranteed to be good for the next 25 years.

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RACING PASSION

In The Spotlight: TAG Heuer-McLaren Number of Years: 30 The history of TAG Heuer is lustrous with innovations aimed at mastering time. The Heuer company, as it was known originally, introduced the Mikrograph in 1916 as the first stopwatch with accuracy up to 1/100th of a second. 47 years later, the Carrera watch was offered as the first chronograph designed with professional drivers in mind. Its Monaco watch was featured prominently on the wrist of the charismatic Steve McQueen in the 1971 race film Le Mans.

In 1985, TAG Heuer established a partnership with the McLaren racing team, which is arguably the most successful F1 team, having started competing in 1966. The team has also secured multiple wins at the North American CanadianAmerican Challenge Cup, the Indy 500, and the Le Mans 24 Hours. Its impressive roster lists top names whose ambition and tenacity resonate perfectly with TAG Heuer’s mantra: Don’t crack under pressure. This partnership between TAG Heuer and McLaren has arrived at its 30th anniversary this year. A dedicated watch is thus in order to celebrate what would be the longest-lasting collaboration in the history of Formula One. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 McLaren Limited Edition model is already seen on the wrists of Jensen Button and Fernando Alonso. It is enlivened by the use of red to invoke the spirit of challenge and victory; not just any shade of red, but the signature rocket red from McLaren’s very own 1985 campaign.

A black dial sets the stage for the straightforward display of information. In addition to telling the time with the facetted and rhodium-plated hands, the sub-dial at nine o’clock shows the recorded minutes and the one at six o’clock offers precise reading to the level of 1/10th of a second – a feature made possible by the use of the Ronda 5040D quartz movement underneath the commemorative case back.

All in all, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 McLaren Limited Edition is a sporty and likable watch. Indeed, what’s not to like about an easily wearable 42mm stainless steel chronograph?

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Technology Meets Tradition The watch industry fights back and gains functionality never before possible with traditional timepieces Words Kelvin Tan

B

y definition, a smartwatch is a timepiece that provides functions beyond that of just telling the time. The earliest well-known examples of the smartwatch come in the forms of watches by Seiko and Casio that came with calculator, basic database input, and storage capabilities in the 1980s.

As manufacturers realise the potential of such devices and once integrated circuitry became sufficiently powerful, they began to sell watches that had functionality derived from enhanced software and connectivity. Among the functions that became ubiquitous are improved calendar and task management, camera functionality, personal entertainment, as well as the ability to synchronise data with other platforms including smartphones.

In recent times however, especially with the arrival of the Apple Watch, we find that even greater scrutiny is placed on the connected smartwatch. In parallel with this greater focus, comes the inevitable comparison between them and the watches coming from the traditional Swiss watch industry. The attention that the Apple Watch and its contemporaries garnered over the past couple of years certainly prodded the traditional watch industry to come out with its own answers.

Perhaps we can say that it is a good time for both gadget and watch lovers alike as the watch industry attempts to capitalise on this and seek new revenue streams by offering wearable technology of its own. This year’s SIHH and BaselWorld are certainly reflective of such efforts with many influential brands showcasing watches that incorporate smart technology.

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Breitling B55 ConneCted

At first glance, the Breitling B55 Connected looks like a classic Breitling timepiece with an analogue-digital dial display. However, look closer and you will notice the prominent blue wireless logo at the nine o’clock position that denotes the B55 is an improved iteration of the earlier B50 calibre with the capability to connect with a dedicated Breitling smartphone app.

When the B55 is in operation, synching with said smartphone application allows its wearer to access time-related features that include time and alarm setting and time zone adjustments. Further to this, recorded times from the chronograph can be uploaded and recorded by the app and this can be seen as a useful feature for those who need to log data such as flight times. As such, the connectivity to the app is a way to complement the key functionality derived from the watch that is the chronograph.

MoveMent Manufacture Breitling Calibre B55, COSC chronometer certified thermocompensated SuperQuartz with analog-digital 12/24 hour backlit LCD display, 1/100 second chronograph, UTC, Countdown/countup (MET), flight time chronograph, lap timer chronograph, electronic tachometer, second timezone, two daily alarms, perpetual calendar, battery charge indicator Case Black carbon-based coated titanium strap Blue and black rubber strap priCe Unavailable

BVlgari diagono MagnesiuM

Bulgari heralds its first foray into luxury intelligent watchmaking with the Diagono Magnesium. The Diagono is already a magnificent example of fine Swiss watchmaking with key aesthetic elements inspired from the design knowhow of the famous brand. However, within this beautiful timepiece lies a secret that is perhaps only known to its owner.

Essentially, the secret to the watch is that it acts as a key to unlock the virtual vault where the owner’s personal data is stored.

This secured vault is accessed via the cloud and is managed by Swiss company, WISeKey. The Diagono Magnesium contains a Near Field Communication (NFC) chip, which authenticates the rightful owner of the watch and provides access to a smartphone app (available for both iOS and Android platforms), made by WISeKey for Bulgari. Then, the owner is able to store his personal data onto the app securely. Subsequent versions of this app will also provide features such as secure mobile payments, unlocking of doors, and remote security alarm activation.

All data is stored in WISeKey’s secure data warehouses to be seen and accessed only by the rightful owner. Owners can rest assured that these data warehouses reside in secure military bunkers at an undisclosed location in the Swiss Alps. With any loss or theft of the phone, owners can remotely destroy the sensitive data stored with the peace of mind that a copy of the personal information is still safe and retrievable from the secure servers in those bunkers.

MoveMent Bulgari automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve, integrated and secured NFC chip and antenna Case 41mm steel case with case middle in Magnesium and PEEK polymer, and ceramic bezel, black PVD case back and steel PVD crown set with black ceramic lozenge strap Vulcanised rubber strap with PEEK pin buckle priCe $15,150

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Casio g-sHoCK Mrgg1000rt

As one of the triumvirate of representatives in the category of connected watches from Japan, Casio’s MRG-G1000RT is an update of the preceding MRG-G1000 model.

This brand new watch encapsulates the latest circuitry that is the result of Casio’s technical knowhow.

Within this watch lies the ability to display dual times. The watch itself ensures atomic clock accuracy by synchronising with GPS and radio wave time calibration signals with its internal reception antennas. This means that the wearer is able to tell the correct time in essentially any location on the globe as soon as it completes synchronisation.

Of course, it goes without saying that the watch not only tells time, but also presents a whole slew of features normally found in other high-end Casio models. A Tough Solar power system within ensures that the watch remains in operation for about 18 months when fully charged by light.

To encase this high technology wonder, Casio has employed the use of DLC-coated titanium that exudes an attractive “Japan blue” tint. As a bonus, the bezel and metal plate are created from Ti64 alloy that has a characteristic nie pattern to reflect the watch’s Japanese design roots.

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MoveMent Casio movement with Tough Solar power system with about 18 months continuous operation, GPS and Radio Wave reception, dual dial world time, stopwatch, countdown timer, alarm, full auto-calendar Case 54.7mm “Japan blue” DLC-coated titanium case, bezel and metal plate made from Ti64 alloy with nie pattern, water resistant to 200m strap Matching DLC-coated bracelet priCe Unavailable

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Citizen eCo-driVe satellite WaVe F900

Citizen offers a connected watch packed with high technology wizardry in the form of the Satellite Wave F900. Frequent travellers will adore the ability to check the right time of day in any time zone as long as a GPS signal is obtained by the watch. And the F900 achieves this with much flair, being able to receive signals as quickly as within three seconds. Citizen’s high speed twin coil motors that move the hands of the watch ensure that, once the signal for the right time is obtained, the hands are moved to the correct time telling position as quickly and smoothly as possible.

Complementing the primary feature of time synchronisation across the globe, the watch also comes with the much-vaunted Eco-Drive system that ensures the watch is always in operation by the much available power source that is light. It is also reflective of Japanese high technology watches when the F900 offers a whole slew of functions and features including world time, chronograph and perpetual calendar complications.

MoveMent Citizen Calibre F900, satellite timekeeping system, GPS, world time, dual time display, 1/20 second chronograph, light level indicator, power reserve indicator, perpetual calendar Case 45.4mm Super Titanium, water resistant to 100m strap Super Titanium priCe Unavailable

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Frédérique Constant HorologiCal sMartWatCH

Perhaps the first to capitalise on the buzz for connected smartwatches and produce a truly Swiss smartwatch in both construction and aesthetics is the Frédérique Constant Horological Smartwatch. When the news of this watch dropped in February of 2015, watch-related media and watch lovers were very excited to see how it would capture and encapsulate the intrinsic values of fine Swiss watchmaking.

To date, we believe that this is one of the most ‘Swiss’ smartwatches launched so far with its dressy appearance that belies the high technology components residing within. It was indeed the goal of the brand to come up with a smartwatch that is traditionally Swiss in design and appearance. The response in terms of sales orders so far reflect the success this endeavour.

Taking a look at the watch, we immediately notice its appearance. Framed by the rose gold-plated stainless steel case is a silver dial with hand-applied indices. This dial acts as a backdrop to the matching rose gold-plated steel hands. It can be said that nothing

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can be more ‘Swiss’ than the overall appearance of this watch. At 42mm, the watch offers optimal legibility without compromising on wearability as it sits well on a cuffed wrist.

In order to make this a truly advanced and functional Swiss smartwatch, Frédérique Constant has worked with Fullpower, a Santa Cruz-based technology firm, to include its MotionX capabilities into the watch. Fullpower has created a unique app that tracks and stores the activities recorded by the watch, so that its wearer can easily access this data in a manner that is beneficial to his health.

MoveMent FC-285 quartz calibre with two-year battery life, MotionX activity tracking, Sleeptracker sleep monitoring, sleep cycle alarms, get-active alerts, adaptive coaching, MotionX cloud backup and restore Case 42mm polished rose gold-plated two-part stainless steel case, water resistant to 50m strap Brown leather strap with folding buckle priCe Unavailable

seiKo astron gPs solar dual-tiMe

Seiko comes forth with the latest and greatest version of the its popular Astron watch. When the Astron GPS Solar watch first appeared in 2012, the timepiece gained prominence amongst travellers who appreciate a watch that could easily adjust itself to the correct time and time zone upon arrival in any new destination on the planet.

Since then, Seiko has continued to improve upon it and presents the all-new Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time this year. As the name suggests, this new version provides the wearer with not only the correct time in any time zone, but also a new sub-dial that displays the home time of the wearer. As with previous iterations, the key to this timepiece is the ease of synchronising the time on the watch with the GPS time signal. Also on board to complete the package for the global traveller is perpetual calendar functionality accurate to the year 2100.

To complete the package, the jet set will be pleased with the legible dial design of the watch that instantly shows pertinent information at a glance.

MoveMent Calibre 8X53, GPS-controlled time and time zone adjustment, dual time with AM/PM indication, perpetual calendar, signal reception indication, world time, daylight saving, power save function Case 45mm in titanium with super hard coating, titanium with black hard coating, stainless steel with super hard coating, stainless steel with rose gold colour coating, or ceramic/titanium with super hard coating. Ceramic bezel for all versions strap Matching bracelet with three-fold clasp priCe Unavailable

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tissot t-touCH exPert solar

The Tissot T-Touch series is already well-liked among watch lovers who enjoy outdoor activities. In fact, the T-Touch is perhaps one of the first watches from a Swiss brand that made an impact in this area.

To build upon this success, Tissot extends its T-Touch Expert Solar range with watches that showcase new design and construction features. One will see the two-tone dial that denotes the horizon, with the digital display residing within the bottom half of the dial. A new bezel is done with a compass rose and Super-LumiNova on the minute hand adds to the legibility of the watch.

The T-Touch Expert Solar comes chockfull of features – up to 20 of them; all geared towards outdoor activities. Wearers will be thrilled at the presence of weather forecaster, altimeter, compass, azimuth and regatta functions.

Moreover, all these can be easily accessed via the touch-sensitive bezel of the watch.

MoveMent Tissot solar quartz movement with accumulator charge indicator Case 45mm anti-magnetic titanium case with black PVD coating, water resistant to 100m strap Rubber or titanium strap with folding clasp and push buttons, leather or leather and fabric bracelet with butterfly clasp and push buttons priCe From RM3,600

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sMart straPs

There are more ways than one to integrate futuristic technology with traditional watchmaking

MontBlanC e-straP

Earlier this year, Montblanc announced the TimeWalker Urban Speed e-Strap. This is an interchangeable strap that integrates Bluetooth Low Energy technology and provides connectivity to apps on smartphones. The strap is able to track wearer activities and has features including smartphone remote control functions, Find-Me functions, and vibrating smart notifications. All these features can be manipulated with a touch-screen display.

With this, the TimeWalker range is extended with three new models that can be fitted with this strap. By employing the e-Strap, the brand has chosen not to sidestep its roots in mechanical watchmaking and give wearers the choice of whether to purchase the watches either with or without the connected option. In either case, the wearer can still enjoy fine Swiss watchmaking.

iWC ConneCt

IWC is also one of the brands that does not want to be left behind. Recently, the Richemont stalwart has announced the IWC Connect. Going in a somewhat similar route as Montblanc, IWC has decided to provide connectivity via a module that is embedded into its watch straps. This module will track wearer activity as well as act as a connecting point between the watch and a smart device.

It would seem that both IWC and Montblanc have gone the route of providing a complementary solution where the mechanical watchmaking legacies of these brands are not compromised. Watch lovers can still have the best of both worlds – the joy of owning beautifully finished mechanical watches and keeping up with the latest in technology.

On the flipside, TAG Heuer has announced that it has entered a partnership with technology giants, Google and Intel, to create the first luxury watch that is powered by the Android Wear ecosystem. The watch will be made and assembled in Switzerland and TAG Heuer has promised that the watch will reflect the beauty of Swiss watchmaking.

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Oh Time, Where Art Thou All manner of métiers d’arts have found a way into luxury watchmaking and this artistic tidal wave shows no sign of abating Words Celine Yap

Feel The Fire

Vulcain honours the Greek god of fire, metal, and smithery in the 50s Presidents’ Cloisonné Grand Feu “The Vulcain” Greek mythology never ceases to fascinate. Of all the gods, Vulcan is the divine craftsman, the one with an unrivalled genius for creating indestructible weapons and artefacts. Poseidon’s trident, Artemis’s and Apollo’s arrows, the weapons of Achilles and Aeneus, Hermione’s necklace, Ariadne’s crown, and Jupiter’s terrifying thunderbolts can all be attributed to him. His own tools – weapons really – are the hammer and anvil. In depicting his commanding likeness in this ferocious, awe-inspiring timepiece, the Vulcain watch company demonstrates its knowledge of industry, finesse, and expertise.

Cloisonné enamel is one of Vulcain’s many practiced faculties 154

– the company, not the god. Fine gold wires outline the subject and separates the different enamel colours. The artisan works on a perfectly flat dial that had been decorated with traditional hand guilloché, and then solders the gold wire onto the dial. After this, painting commences. The artisan uses a goose quill for this task. Next comes firing at 800 degrees Celsius. Once the painting is complete, the artisan files the surface down to create a level finish.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre V-20 Cricket movement with 42-hour power reserve Case 42mm in pink gold, water resistant to 50m strap Claret Louisiana alligator leather with pin buckle in pink gold priCe $75,500 (limited to 30 pieces)

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Blancpain Villeret damascene with relief engraving

OrienTal allure

The Blancpain Villeret Damascene Shakudo combines two ancient art forms in its depiction of a sacred Hindu god Art and religion sometimes overlap. Whether in a beautifully handcrafted stained glass window of a church or a bronze sculpture of the Buddha, it is intended to uplift the mind and spirit. Blancpain’s Villeret Damascene Shakudo combines age-old artistry with the sacred Hindu religion by portraying the Hindu god, Ganesh, on its dial. This breath-taking masterpiece is one out of just four created by Blancpain that use shakudo, relief engraving, and damascening.

Shakudo is a Japanese art form involving an alloy of copper and gold. The idea is to imbue this alloy with a blue-black patina by applying a solution composed of copper acetate. This process is known as passivation and the solution is known in Japanese as rokusho. By increasing the layers of rokusho applied, the patina becomes darker, richer, and more intense. Traditionally, Shakudo was used to decorate swords, and in the Villeret Damascene Shakudo, it forms the blue-black background that is the dial.

Damascening, on the other hand, involves inlaying different metals into one another. Here, circular troughs were chiselled out of the dial into which fine threads of gold have been painstakingly hammered in. The three gold trails around the perimeter are examples of damascening. Finally, the Ganesh motif and decorations all around have been relief engraved by hand.

MoveMent Manually-wound Calibre 15B movement with 40-hour power reserve Case 45mm in red gold, water resistant to 30m strap Mississippi alligator leather with deployant buckle priCe $222,300 (limited to four pieces)

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red handed

Hermès introduces the Japanese art of Aka-E in two magnificent Slim d’Hermès models Traditions of the past are the treasures of today – trust a centuries-old luxury purveyor like Hermès to honour the arts. Not only did it launch a new collection, the Slim d’Hermès, this year, but the company also used the elegant dial of this new watch as the canvas for an ancient Japanese art form, Aka-E. Meaning ‘red picture’ in Japanese, Aka-E involves hand painting in varying shades of red and ochre, which is coated with a fine layer of gold.

The dials depict an ancient Japanese horse race called Koma Kurabe traditionally held once a year in the temple of Kamigamo in Kyoto, as well as a representation of the ‘La femme aux semelles de

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre H1950 ultra-thin movement with 42-hour power reserve Case 39.5mm in white gold, water resistant to 30m strap Matte Havana alligator leather with pin buckle in white gold priCe CHF60,000 (limited to 12 pieces)

vent’ motif first used in an Hermès carré. Painted by the brilliant hands of Master Buzan Fukushima, who is one of the few remaining artisans skilled in the Aka-E technique, the porcelain dial is a work of French art made by the ateliers of Sèvres, a major centre of porcelain making in Europe. Fukushima habitually paints on large objects in porcelain made in Kutani in Japan’s Ishikawa Prefecture, like vases and dishes; this is the first time he has worked on the minute confines of a watch’s dial.

different graduations of red were used to form the painting, outlined in gold

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On GOlden WinGs

Hermès Cape Cod Zebra Pegasus combines the two best-loved métiers d’arts, engraving and Grand Feu enamelling Borrowing from a silk scarf designed by British designer Alice Shirley for Hermès, the whimsical Cape Cod Zebra Pegasus comes to life with the help of miniature painting for the zebra and cloisonné enamelling for its wings. Hermès’s artisans used 22K gold as the base, crafting it into three different layers in order to create an impression of depth between the zebra and its wings.

Once that has been established, engraving begins. This is when the engraver reveals the details of the feathers of the wings, which are subsequently further defined by fine gold wires and translucent coloured enamel.

The entire dial had been fired repeatedly in a kiln at over 800 degrees Celsius – a definitive feature of Grand Feu enamelling. Revealing the wealth of colours as well as the perspective and depth effects, this fascinating work of art is unique and exclusive. Only four individually handcrafted models (each limited to 12 pieces) will be made, underscoring the rarefied nature of watchmaking’s most exalted crafts.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre H1837 with 50-hour power reserve Case 36.5mm X 35.4mm in white gold, water resistant to 30m strap Matte indigo blue alligator or matte black alligator with folding clasp in white gold priCe CHF150,000 (limited to 12 pieces)

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WhOle neW WOrld

Girard-Perregaux’s Chamber of Wonders begins with a trio of historical maps showing different visions of the world through the ages Reigniting a passion for traditional métiers d’arts, Girard-Perregaux inaugurated the Chamber of Wonders as a continuation of its Cabinets of Curiosities. Finding inspiration in the maps of the past, the manufacture sought to kick-start the collection with three different miniature interpretations. New crafts introduced include papyrus mosaic and India ink painting in a trio of timepieces: The Pearl of Wonders, The Terrestrial Map, and The New World “Novus Orbis”.

The Pearl of Wonders is rooted in the works of historian Ibn al-Wardi, the Greco-Egyptian astronomer and astrologer who was considered to be the father of geography. On the dial, an atlas of the world crafted out of blue sodalite with its nuanced textures meets papyrus mosaic. Carved and engraved by hand, it takes four hours of scalpel work to inlay the papyrus, which is 0.25mm thin, and a total of 28 hours to complete the map.

The Terrestrial Map follows the work of Italian Jesuit, Matteo Ricci, a priest who travelled to Asia, where he spent the rest of his life.

For this piece, Girard-Perregaux selected white jade as the canvas.

This precious stone, with its translucent veins, gives the perception

of depth. Sculpted into thin discs, and then manually polished, it is a mere 0.7mm thick and perfectly flat. The beautiful ancient map is then hand painted using natural India ink mixed with a binder. Only the most experienced artisans could be up to this task because of the speed at which the ink dries. Contrasting light and dark strokes, the famous globe and its historical reliefs emerge.

Finally, The New World “Novus Orbis” replicates the work of German scholar Sebastian Münster, one of the major references today in modern cartography. Fine marquetry of semi-precious stones is the métiers in question here, and Girard-Perregaux selected a range of blue and pink aventurine, calcite, and Canadian nephrite to complete the picture. Each stone has to be carved into mini discs and polished until it reaches a thickness of 0.5mm. It took the artisans 95 hours to finish the job, but the results were definitely worth it, as the stones were set as land, appearing to float above the sea.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre 03300-0060 movement with 46hour power reserve Case 40mm in pink gold, water resistant to 30m strap Black alligator leather with pink buckle in pink gold priCe Unavailable (limited to 18 pieces for each model)

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True cOlOurs

The Hublot Classic Fusion Enamel Britto expresses the vitality of pop art with the centuries-old craft of Grand Feu enamel Hublot’s collaboration with the Brazilian artist, painter, and sculptor Romero Britto began in 2014 for the FIFA World Cup in Brazil. Britto had created a special edition football based on his signature colourful artistic style, which was photographed with Brazilian football legend Pelé, as well as other big names in the sport like Luiz Felipe Scolari and José Mourinho. The FIFA World Cup may have been long over, but Hublot would continue this partnership and had invited Britto to imbue its watches with his art. The Classic Fusion Enamel Britto contains the artist’s vibrant style in a slim, classic package that is the Hublot Classic Fusion. Fusion indeed, as ancient craft meets contemporary art here.

To properly replicate Britto’s design on the dial, the enameller has to first reproduce an outline of the artwork to the right scale. Once that is done, the dial is stamped in gold bearing the reproduction. It 160

has to be stamped in a soft metal like gold in order to prepare the champlevé, or cavities. Next, the enameller grinds different colours of enamel in a mortar; there are a total of 12 opaque colours selected, opaque colours being more delicate and sensitive to firing than, say, translucent colours. Thin layers of powder and oil are applied into the cavities one colour at a time, and fired in the kiln at over 800 degrees Celsius. This constitutes several days’ work for the enameller, just as how it takes Britto days on end to create his acrylic paintings.

MoveMent Manually-wound Calibre HUB1302 movement with small seconds and 90-hour power reserve Case 45mm in black polished ceramic or polished platinum, water resistant to 50m strap Glossy black alligator leather sewn onto black rubber with black stitching and deployant buckle in black PVD-coated steel or steel with platinum inserts priCe $103,600 (platinum limited to 30 pieces) $59,700 (ceramic limited to 50 pieces)

MariTiMe inspiraTiOn

Ulysse Nardin applies the classic art of cloisonné enamel in the new Classico Kruzenshtern Of all the different types of enamelling, the one most venerated by Ulysse Nardin is cloisonné. This is the one where flat strips of gold are used to form different shapes called cloisons on a flat surface, and then filled with enamel. In the Classico Kruzenshtern, more than 500mm of gold wire was used to create the cloisons, and each dial required 50 hours to complete, using no fewer than 26 different processes.

Breathing life into the picture is a mixture of translucent and opaque colours that add depth and dimension.

Kruzenshtern is the name of a four-mast barque and tall ship built in Germany in 1926. Originally named Padua, it was given to the USSR in 1946 as war reparation, and subsequently integrated into the Soviet Baltic Fleet. Renamed Kruzenshtern after the 19th century Baltic

German explorer in Russian service, Adam Johann Krusenstern, she now operates primarily as a training ship. Pictured with blue sky above and crashing waves beneath, the Kruzenshtern projects a regal countenance thanks to the artisan’s exemplary talent. In the company of another ship a distance away, its snow-white sails billow in the breeze, attached firmly to their masts. The other ship is possibly the Statsraad Lehmkuhl, but no one really knows. Whether admired from afar or up close, the 30-piece limited edition Classico Kruzenshtern amazes the eye with its intricate attention to detail.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre UN-815 COSC-certified movement with 42-hour power reserve Case 40mm in white or rose gold, water resistant to 50m strap Black alligator leather or rose gold bracelet priCe $77,700 (white gold) $72,100 (rose gold)

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naTure’s BesT

Jaquet Droz turned to Mother Nature for inspiration in creating new pieces for its Les Ateliers d’Art series The butterfly motif represents something special to Jaquet Droz.

From an old book in its archives, it was discovered that Pierre Jaquet Droz had sketched an image of a cherub on a chariot being pulled by a butterfly. This unique, whimsical depiction was first honoured in a special piece called The Loving Butterfly launched in 2013. Crafted using a combination of Grand Feu enamel and relief gold engraving, it offered a hint of the creative genius that is Pierre Jaquet Droz. In the new Petite Heures Minutes The Butterfly Journey, the butterfly

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once again adorns the dial of this elegant timepiece, but this time in its natural environment.

Two variations have been created, one in red gold and the other in white gold. In the red gold model, a single butterfly sculpted by hand in red gold with blue champlevé wings perches atop a spray of feijoa flowers. Jaquet Droz has made this in a set of eight, with the butterfly in eight different positions. In the white gold model, again fashioned in eight different variations, the butterfly is sculpted in white gold and surrounded by blooming peonies. In all 16 pieces, the butterfly has its legs made in gold wire and suspended above the dial so they quiver ever so slightly with each movement of the wrist.

Among the most spectacular minute repeaters on the market

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre 2653 movement with 68-hour power reserve

MoveMent Manually-wound Calibre RMA88 movement with 48hour power reserve

Case 43mm in red or white gold, water resistant to 30m

Case 47mm in red gold

strap Rolled-edge handmade black alligator leather with ardillon buckle in red or white gold

strap Rolled-edge handmade black alligator leather with folding clasp in red gold

priCe Unavailable (limited to two series of eight timepieces)

priCe Unavailable (limited to eight pieces)

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is the Jaquet Droz The Bird Repeater, which combines the chiming of the repeater with moving automatons. This year’s rendition, The Bird Repeater Geneva, brought together pastoral and urban scenes as the backdrop. Uniting all the symbols of the Swiss city on a white mother-of-pearl dial, a symphony of métiers d’arts join in the medley.

Engravers, painters, and enamellers come together to replicate, in miniature, Lake Geneva, its famous Jet d’Eau fountain, and lighthouse Le Phare des Paquîs, as well as the silhouette of the Salève, the preAlpine peak considered by many as the city’s balcony.

Handcrafted in relief is a pair of goldfinches nesting in the heart of Île Rousseau near the aforementioned lake. With plumage as brightly coloured as a Fauvist canvas, they are accompanied by two young and an egg in the middle of a nest. Once the repeater is activated, the birds feed their fledglings, they spread their wings, the water begins flowing, and the egg hatches. Off centred at 12 o’clock, the dial in black onyx with two red gold lancine hands display the time without disrupting the harmony of the scene.

To be committed to watchmaking’s traditional métiers d’arts is not enough for Jaquet Droz. Constantly on the lookout for different handcrafts all over the world, it presented a most unique one this year:

Eggshell marquetry. Practiced by the Vietnamese for centuries, this art form has never been applied in watchmaking. In this dial, about 2,000 natural quail eggshells were used, and took the artist one month to complete. The shells were first cleaned before being gently crushed to the desired fineness and smoothed over the surface. To give it a three-dimensional effect, graduations in tone were used as well as darker colours to demarcate different subjects.

The motif selected for this timepiece is the Indian elephant, a symbol of power and longevity. Like the tortoise, it is one of the most celebrated animals in Asian imperial art, representing intelligence, care, and wisdom. Through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement’s oscillating weight had also been decorated with a handengraved scene of an elephant backed by mountains.

MoveMent Self-winding Calibre 2653 with 68-hour power reserve Case 43mm in red gold, water resistant to 30m strap Black alligator leather with ardillon buckle in red gold priCe $151,000 (limited edition eight pieces)

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Wrist Takers

Watch straps come to the fore this year with thoughtful designs and sophisticated engineering. Here’re the standouts, with their watches of course Words Jamie Tan

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ike a superhero’s sidekick, the humble strap toils in plain sight, often unnoticed and unappreciated, while its partner hoards the attention. Yet, as the interface between watch and wrist, a strap’s functional and design elements can either make or break its companion. Clearly, there is a strap for every occasion; compare a dress watch’s simple leather strap to a field watch’s NATO strap.

This year, the sidekick finally comes into its own as several brands release watches with bolder, louder straps. Audacity is the name of the game here, given the play on colours, materials, and even artisanal techniques to create them. Of course, there is a risk of distraction – attention should rightly be focused on the watches themselves, after all.

Fortunately, the new watches are strong products in and of themselves, and more than capable of standing on their own.

Rolex

Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master marks several firsts for the King, beginning with a black dial that is unprecedented for the model. The watch’s bezel insert is also rendered in black and, like its sibling’s gold and platinum bezels, sports polished markings in relief on a matte background. Finally, the colour’s usage also extends to

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the new Oysterflex bracelet.

The Oysterflex marks an exciting paradigm shift: various third parties have been producing aftermarket rubber straps for Rolex watches, but this is the first bona fide offering from the brand. This will please aficionados seeking a sporty alternative to the metal bracelet, while also setting the standard for others to beat. The latter will be quite challenging though. For a start, the Oysterflex will not break like conventional rubber straps, thanks to a blade-shaped internal skeleton of nickel titanium. The blade is, however, far from rigid –nickel titanium’s superelastic property keeps the strap supple, so comfort remains uncompromised. This blade is overmoulded with an outer layer of elastomer to make the Oysterflex waterproof, yet lighter than a metal bracelet.

The new Yacht-Master comes in Everose gold, with case sizes of 40mm and 37mm. They are fitted with Rolex’s self-winding Calibre 3135 and Calibre 2236 movements respectively. (Price unavailable.)

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Zenith

Zenith has been the official timekeeper for five of the races organised by Peter Auto since 2014, including the Spa Classic held on the widely-loved Circuit de SpaFrancorchamps. The manufacture upped the ante this year by also partnering with the Tour Auto Optic 2000, which involved over 200 classic cars on a five-day, 2,000km route through central and western France.

The El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition marks the event and Zenith’s participation in it, both as timekeeper and as a participant that’s fielding four competitors.

The Tour Auto Edition is part of the El Primero collection, itself a namesake of the legendary movement. Unveiled in 1969 as one of the first self-winding chronograph movements, it remains the only massproduced one with a high-beat escapement that oscillates at 5Hz. Its variant here, the El Primero 4061, sports modifications such as a silicon lever and escape wheel that have less friction and greater wear resistance.

The movement’s components have also been rearranged to allow an “open heart” construction that shows off the escapement from the dial aperture at 10 o’clock.

In lieu of a small seconds hand, the Tour Auto Edition uses a three-armed wheel coloured like the French flag to reference the Optic 2000’s host country. This combination of red, white, and blue is applied in several areas, from the graduations on the dial to the coloured grooves on the chronograph pushers. The group of stripes running vertically across the dial are in these colours too; they reach the very edge of the dial, before seemingly jumping across empty space to continue down the strap. To have such a cohesive design motif between the dial and strap is rare, and generates a great deal of visual interest. These stripes aren’t the only defining feature of the strap though – with its perforated-calfskin-over-rubber construction, it also manages to emulate vintage driving gloves while standing up to abuse. (Price unavailable)

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The combination of three colourways and two strap options allows the watch to suit any rider

tudoR

Tudor’s sport/tool watch collections span various universes, from diving to FIA’s World Endurance Championship. The Fastrider collection inhabits the world of motorcycles and its latest model, the Fastrider Chrono, continues the manufacture’s partnership with Italian marque Ducati. The timepiece’s design traces its inspiration to the Ducati Scrambler, a series of scrambler motorcycles that was originally produced from 1962 to 1974, before being reintroduced in 2014. For a technical look that matches the bike’s, the watch has an angular case topped with a matte black ceramic bezel, upon which a tachymeter scale has been engraved. This is complemented by the matte black PVD crown and pushers, as well as the matching flange and sub-dial borders. The three dial colour variants also reference the 166

Scrambler – bright yellow recalls the model’s historic colour, while red conveys a retro chic, and olive green alludes to its urban sensibility.

To wrap things up, Tudor is offering the Fastrider Chrono in two strap options themed on the different aspects of riding. The black rubber strap reinforces the watch’s technical slant with a robust, no-nonsense material, and will suit the serious rider who wants a performance-oriented package. The leather strap, on the other hand, has gadroons a la motorcycle leather saddles for a stylish twist.

As this timepiece is powered by the Valjoux 7753 chronograph movement, it has the usual tri-compax layout with minute and hour totalizers at three and six o’clock respectively, plus a quick date corrector on the left of the 42mm case. (Price unavailable)

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tAG heueR

Formula 1 david Guetta

Carrera Cara delevingne

In the world of watchmaking, TAG Heuer stands among a select few that are adept at conveying a young and edgy attitude. The manufacture is reasserting this facet of itself in 2015 by collaborating with its partners – both old and new – to create watches that reflect this. Such efforts must obviously also involve the watches’ straps, and TAG Heuer does not disappoint.

The Formula 1 David Guetta (RM9,000) is the first result from its eponymous DJ/music producer’s appointment as TAG Heuer’s brand ambassador. The globetrotting Guetta spins at clubs and festivals around the world, which explains the watch’s GMT complication. Guetta’s industry is also referenced in the timepiece’s colours: Cool blacks and blues evoke clubs’ nocturnal setting and the dusk-to-dawn rhythm that revellers follow. Strap-wise, the Formula 1 David Guetta comes with a Bund strap, which consists of a regular strap and a removable “cuff”.

This “cuff” was originally conceived for greater comfort for aviators, as it insulated a watch’s case from its wearer’s wrist. In a modern context, however, the Bund strap is more decorative, and acts as the perfect accessory to complete a range of subculture getups, whether Gothic, industrial, or something else entirely.

Beyond the club scene, TAG Heuer has also looked to high fashion, and partnered with model and social media powerhouse Cara Delevingne. Her signature watch, the Carrera Cara Delevingne, consists of several references that share common features: Titanium carbide-coated steel case, sunburst-textured grey dial, and rose gold hands and indexes. The definitive version of the watch expands on the high fashion motif with its diamond-set bezel and unique strap.

The strap is constructed of aged calfskin, coloured black to match the watch case, and finished with a checkerboard stitching pattern that mimics quilted leather commonly seen in upmarket leather products. (RM14,650) The manufacture has also revisited two of its associates in the sporting arena, and dedicated a chronograph to each of them. Football legend Cristiano Ronaldo’s new Formula 1 CR7 chronograph (RM5,650) takes its name from his initials and jersey number, and features the liberal use of green to symbolise the football pitch. The watch comes complete with a green and black NATO strap that is at once sporty, and a perfect extension of the watch. For something hotter, consider the Formula 1 McLaren Limited Edition (RM5,650), which commemorates the 30th year of partnership between TAG Heuer and McLaren. The watch’s use of “Rocket Red” is inspired by the tomato red McLaren used in its 1985 campaign.

Besides being prominently used on the chronograph’s bezel, the colour also runs down the middle of its NATO strap.

Formula 1 Cr7

Formula 1 McLaren Limited Edition

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hublot

Big Bang Broderie (rM162,300)

Big Bang Unico Italia Independent (rM119,300)

Big Bang Ferrari Black Ceramic (rM123,900)

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Big Bang Ferrari Grey Ceramic (rM123,900)

Hublot’s penchant for combining the most disparate elements in unexpected ways – its “art of fusion” – has always yielded fascinating results. The brand’s modus operandi remains unchanged, and yes, straps are deeply involved this year.

For the Big Bang Broderie, Hublot worked with St. Gallen-based maison, Bischoff, for the latter’s expertise in silk embroidery. Bischoff supplied embroidery, which the manufactured then processed in different ways, depending on the watch part each piece was bound for. To create the dial and bezel, the needlework is layered with carbon fibre sheets and encased in epoxy to create a rigid hybrid of silk and carbon fibre. The strap, on the other hand, is silk-onsilk embroidery that is sewn directly onto rubber. The final product is a unified design motif, beginning with an embroidered skull on the dial, which is flanked by an unfurling net of arabesques on the bezel and strap. Since the embroidery on the strap isn’t overlaid with epoxy like those on the dial and bezel, it yields a tactile experience, as the wearer will be able to feel the individual threads.

Hybrids aside, Hublot’s work this year also includes an entirely new material – Texalium.

Its development is spawned from the brand’s collaboration with design company Italia Independent, and is essentially carbon fibre coated with aluminium. Texalium remains lightweight like carbon fibre, but can be produced in a far wider range of colours, including brilliant hues that were previously unattainable. The new Big Bang Unico Italia Independent demonstrates this with a reference that uses two different shades of blue for its case and bezel respectively. A denim strap takes things over the top by introducing a third shade of blue, while grey stud detailing similar to those found on high fashion products lend a touch of class.

Last but not least, Hublot has unveiled new Ferrari watches too, as the two partners’ cooperation enters its fourth year. The Big Bang Ferrari Black Ceramic and Grey Ceramic are “racing edition” watches decked out in the marque’s liveries, similar to the uniforms seen at the races. The Ferrari Black Ceramic wears the prancing pony’s traditional colour on its dial’s hands, indexes, and graduations. A matching red Schedoni leather strap adorned with blue and white stripes tops things off. In contrast, the Ferrari Grey Ceramic looks decidedly more understated, dressed as it is in the historic North American Racing Team (NART) colours. Greys dominate the watch, and a similarly hued strap with black and white stripes extends seamlessly from it.

u-boAt

U-Boat’s peculiar approach to watchmaking often sees it eschewing conventions to create timepieces with unique designs. Drilling cracks into a case before filling them with diamonds? Check. Knocking a jewel into a sapphire crystal to propagate fractures across its surface… then leaving it there? Check. Treating surfaces with acid baths? Check, too! U-Boat timepieces are impossible to miss with their avant-garde aesthetics, and often resonate with rebels who want to stray off the beaten path. Aficionados will be delighted with the five new “ultra-rare” offerings from the brand, which boast various forms of hand finishing.

The Opera Nera (RM323,400) presents U-Boat’s vision of a high jewellery watch. The brand took a 46mm stainless steel Chimera case, coated it black, then paved it with black diamonds that were set with their apexes facing outwards. The watch’s dial is similarly paved, with the addition of 12 baguette-cut rubies that function as indexes. To match the atypical choice of stones and gemsetting method, the Opera Nera’s strap is pony skin, complete with a silver lily sign set with black diamonds.

The Phoenix (RM141,000) and Black Widow (RM667,000) are both chronographs based on the Classico collection, but sized differently at 48mm and 53mm respectively. The Phoenix’s sterling silver case has a hammered “martellée” finishing; fissures have been drilled into it and set with black diamonds for a distressed look. The watch’s sandwich dial construction uses mother-of-pearl over a black

lower dial for contrast, while preserving the juxtaposition of luxury with wear-and-tear. Fittingly, the Phoenix’s strap is vintage-looking calf leather, and comes with a buckle that has been similarly treated as the case. The Black Widow, on the other hand, has a pristine pink gold case paved with black diamonds that have been set backwards, like the Opera Nera. This is complemented by a black dial, which has cut outs that reveal carbon fibre underneath it. The Black Widow’s strap is also vintage-looking, albeit with far less distressing than the Phoenix’s. It sports gold and silver detailing, including a skull motif located just below the bottom lugs.

The Hera (RM324,000) and Lussuria (RM85,000) are based on another popular U-Boat collection, the Flightdeck. The Hera’s yellow gold case resembles the Phoenix’s, with “martellée” finishing and diamond set fissures. Its dial has a more technical approach design though, given the highly legible Arabic numeral indexes, and the sharp graduations on the flange and sub-dials. It’s strap takes after the Black Widow’s, with bronze and ruby inserts and a similar skull motif. The Lussuria’s steel case also boasts a textured finish, but in a streaked pattern unlike the others. Its sapphire crystal has been “studded” with a diamond, which lies in the middle of a radiating network of cracks on its bottom surface. To avoid detracting from this, its strap is relatively simple with detailing only in the form of textures. The strap material, however, is an interesting calf-alligator hybrid.

Black Widow

Hera

Lussuria

opera Nera

Phoenix

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Face Time

With unconventional designs and intricate decorations, these visually arresting timepieces catch the eye in various ways, demanding more than just a cursory glance Words Jamie Tan

Longines Conquest CLassiC Moonphase

It takes both skill and a deft touch to integrate and balance contrasting elements into a unified whole. As the Conquest Classic Moonphase demonstrates, Longines is more than capable of doing this on multiple levels.

Conceptually, the watch is meant to exhibit Longines’s sporting heritage and sophistication given its longstanding association with equestrian sports, while also showing off the brand’s watchmaking abilities. To this end, the watch integrates a chronograph, complete calendar, moon phase indicator, and 24-hour display to illustrate these facets of the brand. The chronograph, for instance, is tied to the sporting aspect of Longines, while the moon phase display gives the watch a classy chic.

On a practical level, the sheer amount of information presented necessitates the clever integration of displays for legibility, and to prevent the dial from cluttering up. Longines has maintained a tri-compax layout with the Conquest Classic Moonphase, and left the final “quadrant” at three o’clock for its brand signature. The three sub-dials thus have to combine multiple displays each. The one at six o’clock houses the chronograph’s 12-hour totalizer, with a moon phase display placed within it. The sub-dial at nine o’clock, on the other hand, integrates the small seconds and 24-hour indicators on two concentric chapter rings. Finally, the sub-dial at 12 o’clock is used for the chronograph’s 30-minute totalizer, with two apertures within displaying the day and month. And the date? It’s read off a hand which points to the date ring lying just inside the watch’s flange. (RM39,440)

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MauriCe LaCroix MasterpieCe gravity LiMited

First introduced in 2014, the Masterpiece Gravity is joined by three new references this year, and this limited edition is the standout piece. The watch proffers a dizzying array of details, beginning with the two sub-dials for the hours and minutes, and the small seconds respectively. Both these sub-dials sport yellow gold hands, and use a base coat of white lacquer, upon which a blue railway track chapter ring and black numerals are printed. The larger one, however, uses Roman numerals for the hour markers, while the smaller one has Arabic numerals to mark the seconds instead.

The off-centred arrangement of these sub-dials has freed up considerable real estate, which Maurice Lacroix has put to good use.

The watch’s regulating organ, for instance, is prominently displayed between six and eight o’clock on the dial, and now serves a secondary duty of providing visual interest. The escapement’s silicium lever and escape wheel, in particular, lend a dash of blue and purple respectively to contrast with the rest of the watch. The graduations on the balance bridge, which are used for regulating the movement, have also been painted to lend a decorative element to the dial. Larger surfaces have not been forgotten – note the varied finishing on the bridges with circular Côtes de Genève, sandblasting, and bevelling. (RM38,160) 171

sevenFriday M2-2

Although it was established in just 2012, SevenFriday has made amazing progress with its watches – currently standing at 10 models across two collections – and even been elevated to cult status. It’s no mean feat, especially for a newcomer in an industry where the old boys measure their histories in centuries. Part of the brand’s appeal lies in its products’ designs, which remain unique and instantly recognisable, even to ‘outsiders’ with little knowledge of watches. The fact that there is always much to see on a SevenFriday watch’s dial is key too.

The brand’s latest offering, the M2-2, updates the M2-1 with minor design tweaks while preserving the latter’s key elements. The rounded square case remains untouched, but sports a dark grey finish with rose gold accents this time to reference the prevalence of copper and iron during the industrial revolution. Some elements on the dial have also been either removed or altered – note the omission of the text and clockwise arrow originally on the M2-1’s central plate, and the peripheral plate’s change from an opaque one with cutouts to an opalescent crystal. (Price unavailable) 172

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ingersoLL goLden eyes

Ingersoll inhabits a crowded market segment filled with numerous competitors, but has managed to distinguish itself and stay ahead with its watches. Rather than pay homage to classic timepieces, or rehash others’ designs, the brand combines a mishmash of influences to come up with quirky ones of its own. This approach explains the brand’s large number of collections, none of which look alike. Design aside, Ingersoll’s watches also offer extremely good value, which makes them even more compelling buys.

The Golden Eyes is part of the brand’s automatic collection, which saw over 40 new references introduced at BaselWorld this year. One’s attention is immediately drawn to the two balance wheels at the lower half of the dial – a less common movement design aimed at improving chronometric accuracy by evening out each regulating organ’s discrepancies.

With their large skeletonised bridges, these balance wheels occupy a significant portion of the dial, and serve as an anchor around which the rest of it is built. The symmetry they’ve established has been maintained, with the hour and minute sub-dial positioned above them at 12 o’clock, and the small seconds sub-dial overlapping it.

To create visual interest, Ingersoll has applied various types of finishing on the Golden Eyes’s surfaces. The main dial has a texture similar to Côtes de Genève, but in a spiral pattern à la snailing in lieu of traditional parallel stripes.

The sub-dials, too, sport textured finishes, including circular graining and another hybrid pattern, this time of scalloped sunburst and snailing. The balance wheel bridges have also been finished, with polished top surfaces and matte contours. (RM2,540)

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rayMond WeiL nabuCCo inspired by gibson

Among the myriad instruments in Gibson’s line up, the SG electric guitar is the brand’s bestselling model, with notable players including U2’s The Edge and Angus Young of AC/DC. Raymond Weil has drawn inspiration from this iconic guitar, and collaborated with the instrument maker to release the Nabucco Inspired by Gibson.

The Nabucco Inspired by Gibson measures 46mm across and 15.25mm thick, but keeps things light with a titanium and polished steel case. The two manufactures’ association is immediately apparent, what with their respective brand signatures on the dial. In a more subtle reference to the guitar itself, Raymond Weil has replaced the baton-shaped hour marker at 12 o’clock with Gibson’s crown logo, which is a common fixture on the latter’s guitar headstocks. Further allusions to the SG are made with the six concentric grooves on the dial’s fringe that emulate the six strings on a guitar.

Powered by the RW5010 chronograph movement, the Nabucco Inspired by Gibson sports the familiar tri-compax layout, with the chronograph hands in red for effortless reading of elapsed time. Its bezel is grey ceramic, and has a tachymeter scale printed on it. This timepiece comes in a limited run of 200 pieces. (Price unavailable)

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vuLCain 50s presidents’ WatCh ManuaL

Vulcain’s decision to use guilloché on its new 50s Presidents’ Watch Manual’s dial is an easy one to make. The watch’s highlight is, after all, its V-11 Cricket Calibre movement, which has an alarm complication that is the brand’s claim to fame. Any details on the dial must thus neither detract from it nor hinder its operation. As the watch is used by and still gifted to the Presidents of the United States of America, it must also maintain a classy, dignified aesthetic. Given these considerations, what better way to decorate the dial than with guilloché? This technique requires finesse from the guillocheur, and produces an intricate product that remains subtle at a distance, but can be admired up close.

The new Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Watch Manual is available in eight references with different colourways. Their dials are finished with barleycorn guilloché in the middle, sunray guilloché on the surrounding ring, save for the reference with a chocolate brown dial, which has a sunray guilloché pattern on the entire dial. Besides dial colour, different case materials (either steel or bicolour pink gold/steel) and strap options are also available to allow the watch to complement the rest of one’s outfit. (RM22,590)

Junghans Meister agenda

German timepieces often speak a common “Teutonic” design language, with specific details dependent on the individual brand. In Junghans’s case, its designs have been compared to the Bauhaus style, which arose during the interbellum. Radically simplified designs.

An absence of decorative fluff. The harmony between form and function. These are all hallmarks of the style, and well represented in the Meister Agenda.

The Meister Agenda is singularly devoted to the primary function of a watch, which is to tell the time. Its thin bezel, for example, maximises the dial area for time to be read easily. The dial itself is dominated by clean, sharp lines for improved legibility, with no superfluous details to distract its wearer.

Time aside, the Meister Agenda also houses a power reserve indicator at six o’clock, and a triple calendar with a twist – in lieu of the year, it displays the week of the year via a sub-dial at 12 o’clock.

The latter was conceived for businessmen and finance professionals who follow such a convention, but can actually be adapted for use elsewhere. At the start of a project, for example, the week of year indication can be reset to one, and the number of weeks the project’s been running for can be read at a glance later. (Price unavailable)

epos CoLLeCtion originaLe 3431 LiMited edition

Simple watch designs are seemingly easy to whip up but a challenge to perfect. The devil’s in the details as Epos has demonstrated with the Collection Originale 3431 Limited Edition. It shows that the inventive use of just a few elements can create something that’s fresh and extremely attractive.

The designers at Epos have gunned for – and achieved – a very specific look for the 3431. The watch forgoes a running second hand, and doesn’t even bother with utilising the entire dial area. Instead, the two hands occupy a fan-shaped sector printed with the hour and minute markers, and mark the time by sweeping across it before taking a retrograde skip back to the top.

In lieu of additional details, the 3431 generates interest by making each one count. Note, for example, the usage of Breguet hands, which complements the classic typeface of the indexes. The latter have also been rendered in different sizes, which skews the weight towards the middle of the dial. Finally, the rest of the dial is decorated with Côtes de Genève, encased within a simple round case with pocket watch-like lugs. Available in stainless steel or yellow gold-coated stainless steel, and limited to 888 pieces for each case version. (Price unavailable)

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ernest boreL duke

With its heavy focus on dress and couple watches, one might mistakenly believe that Ernest Borel’s timepieces are just limited to classic, minimalist designs. That just isn’t the case. As the brand’s Duke collection proves, intricacy and elegance are not mutually exclusive.

Besides the time, the Duke also presents further information via a triple calendar and a moon phase indicator. These astronomical complications are, however, constrained to the middle portion of the dial, with the outer part of the dial remaining simple to create contrast. Within the central dial, the day and month are displayed via two symmetrical windows at 12 o’clock, while the moon phase balances them out at six o’clock. The rim of the central dial houses a ring, which the date is read off. Finally, two apertures flanking the moon phase indicator offer a glimpse of the watch’s movement. In a twist on the conventional usage of logos as just an identifying element, Ernest Borel’s brand signature also functions as the 12 o’clock marker on the Duke’s dial. The remaining hour markers are applied baton indexes. The Duke is available in either steel or rose gold plated steel cases. (Price unavailable) 176

titoni spaCe star

The archetypal dress watch’s simplicity makes it the perfect canvas upon which additional details can be painted. Titoni has done just that with the Space Star by jazzing it up on both the material and design fronts. This iteration of the collection begins with a bicolour case of steel and gold-toned PVD, with the latter applied to the crown and the bezel’s inner edge. The play with colours and materials continues on the white enamel dial, where the hour, minute, and small second hands have received the same treatment to mirror the case. Finally, the border of the date display’s aperture at three o’clock is also marked in gold tone. This detailing is replicated on the hour markers, where they surround the set stones that make up the indexes. (RM6,805)

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Active Pursuit

Sporty lifestyles need equally sporty watches, whether in the water or at the race track Words Jamie Tan

Oris Aquis Depth GAuGe

When Oris’s Aquis Depth Gauge was introduced in 2013, it was the first dive watch to feature an integrated depth gauge with no moving parts. The watch returns this year looking even more striking with a new case and strap colour.

The Aquis Depth Gauge measures the depth via simple fluid mechanics when it is submerged underwater. The sapphire crystal covering the watch’s dial has a hollow channel milled into its edge, which terminates at an inlet at 12 o’clock. As the watch descends deeper, pressure increases and water enters the channel via the inlet, while the air in the channel is compressed. Since the compression of air within the channel is proportionate to depth, calibrated markings can be made along it – the diver thus reads off his current depth via the

boundary between air and water.

Oris has refrained from fixing what isn’t broken, and kept the Aquis Depth Gauge largely unchanged. Depth gauge aside, the manufacture has also retained two of its strap’s features: A safety anchor that prevents it from breaking loose even after a heavy impact, and the sliding sledge clasp that allows sizing adjustments to be made without undoing the clasp. The latter is of particular use to divers, since watches will come loose due to the wetsuit’s compression as the wearer descends to greater depths.

Colour-wise, the new Aquis Depth Gauge will ship with both a yellow and a black rubber strap, to contrast or match with the 46mm case, which now has a black DLC coating. An updated bezel in tungsten completes the watch. (RM16,800) 177

GrAhAm silverstOne rs rAcinG

If its name hasn’t made things obvious enough, Graham’s Silverstone RS Racing is a motorsports-inspired timepiece. Named after the Silverstone Circuit in England, the watch is chock-full of details that reference the various elements at a racetrack. The blue dial, for example, has a chequered pattern that brings to mind both the flag that’s waved at a race’s finish, and carbon fibre used for various race car components. Similarly, Graham has done away with the hand on its small seconds sub-dial at nine o’clock, instead replacing it with a “tyre rim” under which a “brake disc” rotates.

On the functional front, the Silverstone RS Racing is, true to its sporty inspiration, a chronograph. The second, minute, and hour totalizer hands are all in red, both for legibility and to demarcate their function. The watch’s bezel has been printed with a tachymeter scale for quick measurements of rate, and day/ date displays at three o’clock round off its functions. The icing on the cake is the timepiece’s rubber strap with its tyre-tread pattern and coloured inset that completes the homage to racing. (Price unavailable)

victOrinOx niGht visiOn

Like the Swiss Army knives that Victorinox also manufactures, the Night Vision is equally suited for extended camping trips or quick jaunts into the wild, and even simplifies the packing list to boot. The latter is possible thanks to the white LED in the watch that allows it to fill additional roles. Located at 12 o’clock on the case, the LED faces outwards and functions primarily as a flashlight. It also has a strobe mode for signalling, and can be used as an emergency beacon by flashing the SOS message in Morse code, which is visible up to a kilometre away. For reading the time and date under any condition, the Night Vision has a blue LED for illuminating its dial. Lastly, the watch also has a red LED that can be set to flash once every 10 seconds to announce its wearer’s position.

It doubles as an end of battery life indicator, and will flash thrice every 10 seconds when the battery needs to be replaced.

The Night Vision’s electronic module is Swiss made, and independent from the movement – two separate batteries thus power the timekeeping and illumination functions respectively. Victorinox has two new references for the watch this year, with matching dials and straps in either blue or red, alongside a PVD treated stainless steel case Victorinox dubs the “Black Ice” coating. (Price unavailable) 178

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perrelet turbine YAcht

Perrelet’s additions to its Turbine collection this year include both aviation-inspired pieces and nautical ones. The latter comes in the form of the Turbine Yacht, which maintains the brand’s signature spinning upper dial while assimilating several sailing elements into its design. Like the older Turbine Diver, the Turbine Yacht’s upper dial is modelled after a ship’s propeller. In lieu of a plain surface, however, the Turbine Yacht’s lower dial is patterned with alternating light and dark blue stripes, to mirror the sea and a yacht’s deck simultaneously. Blue is used extensively in other parts of the watch too, such as its chapter ring and flange. The latter is rotatable via the crown at 11 o’clock, and can function as a compass rose to aid in navigation when one is at sea.

The Turbine Yacht is a physically imposing watch given its 47mm diameter and 15.45mm thickness. Its case has been PVD-treated with a carbon coating to impart a deep black that matches the turbine on the dial. The watch’s Calibre P-331 movement beats at four hertz, and has a 42-hour power reserve. Two other references of this model are available with bronze PVD coating, and a final one has a stainless steel case. (Price unavailable)

eDOx hYDrO-sub AutOmAtic

2015 marks the confluence of several milestones for Edox’s Hydro-Sub. For one, it’s the 50th anniversary of the model, which was first launched in 1965. The jubilee coincides with Edox brand ambassador Christian Redl’s successful trek to the North Pole, where he free dived under the Arctic ice cap – Redl’s signature watch is the Hydro-Sub North Pole Limited Edition.

Finally, this is also the year that Edox is re-establishing the Hydro-Sub collection, following last year’s 350-piece limited run of the Hydro-Sub North Pole.

The new Hydro-Sub models come in both quartz and mechanical iterations. The latter, the Hydro-Sub Automatic, is shown here, and represents the middle segment within the collection – above the quartz models fitted with Ronda movements, but more accessible than the COSC-certified North Pole Limited Edition, which has sold out. It retains the cushion-shaped case of the original, but also has the new Master Lock crown protection system that Redl designed for the North Pole Limited Edition. The system uses a retractable cover that prevents ice from building up on the crown and damaging it, and represents purpose-built design at its finest. In the less extreme settings where the Hydro-Sub Automatic will likely be worn, the Master Lock remains useful for general protection.

The Hydro-Sub Automatic keeps the 500m water resistance of the North Pole Limited Edition, and mimics the latter’s design details, such as the baton indexes. The watch is available with either an electric blue dial and red detailing, or a black dial with orange highlights. (RM5,950) 179

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Photo Omega

ON TOP OF TIME Reflections on essential themes, core values, and key market trends

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Top Guns

The quintessential pilot’s watch is much loved by watch collectors, but do they still have a role to play in the cockpit or on the wrist of an aviator? Four commercial pilots evaluate the modern mechanical pilot’s watch Words Jamie Tan

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IWC BIg PIlot’s WatCh

The Big Pilot’s Watch is an evolution of Beobachtungs-uhren (observation watches) the German air force, Luftwaffe, procured from various manufactures, including IWC. The originals had a massive 55mm diameter, housed pocket watch movements for greater precision, and were issued to bomber navigators as tools for their missions.

The Big Pilot’s Watch is IWC’s modern take on the original, and far more manageable size-wise. Still, its strapping case measures 46mm across and it houses the self-winding Calibre 51111, currently IWC’s largest automatic movement. Calibre 51111 boasts a seven-day power reserve, and its bi-directional Pellaton winding system complements this with greater efficiency. The movement stops itself at

the end of 168 hours to stay isochronous, lest the mainspring’s diminishing torque reduces its timekeeping accuracy. True to its roots as a tool watch to be used in the cockpit, the watch houses its movement in a soft-iron inner cage to protect it against magnetic fields.

In terms of design, the Big Pilot’s Watch largely preserves the original B-Uhren’s look: Arabic numerals, a simple chapter ring, sword hands, and a triangle flanked by two dots at 12 o’clock.

These details have grown to become the hallmarks of a pilot’s watch, alongside a large onion or diamond crown, and a stark white-on-black colour scheme. IWC has updated the design with a handy date window at six o’clock, as well as a power reserve indicator at three o’clock.

sIze Li ing: It’s very practical given its size, which helps when looking out of the window after looking at the time, because there is less strain on the eyes when refocusing on faraway objects.

DesIgn Chris Cheong: The design speaks for itself; it’s a very traditional pilot watch, and some people like to identify themselves by wearing their profession on their wrists.

Lim Cher Yong: The lugs are quite long and the spring bar is straight. Together with the thick strap, it will take some time before the watch will match the contours of my wrist, unlike a metal bracelet, which can hug my wrist immediately.

Case 46mm in steel, water resistant to 60m MoveMent Self-winding Calibre 51111 with 168-hour power reserve strap Black alligator leather with stainless steel deployant clasp priCe RM53,000

soft-Iron Inner Cage Chris Cheong: The modern cockpit has a computer system for all flight operations, so there’s no need to worry about magnetism, whether in terms of it affecting the watch, or the watch itself affecting the instruments.

Li ing: It depends on the spirit the brand is trying to convey with the watch. In this case, the soft-iron cage is something other watches don’t necessarily have.

The attention to quality is there, even if it’s not shown on the dial.

PoWer reserve InDICatIon Daniel Thoo: The power reserve indicator might be useful for someone with multiple watches, to keep track of winding and ensure that the watch is ready for use.

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zenIth PIlot tyPe 20 gMt

Zenith may be most famous now for its El Primero chronograph movement and the collection of watches it powers, but the manufacture actually has ties with aviation dating back to the early 1900s. Pilot watches with oversized cases and dials printed with large Arabic numerals for legibility were a specialty of Zenith then, alongside cockpit dashboard instruments such as altimeters. The brand’s association with aviation was cemented in 1909 when Louis Blériot flew across the English Channel – with a Zenith on his wrist.

The Pilot Type 20 GMT is the most vintage looking timepiece in the line-up, beginning with a stainless steel case sporting straight lugs and a

large onion crown – all signature details of traditional pilot watches. The watch’s dial maintains this aesthetic using squelette hands and Arabic numeral hour indexes in a vintage typeface. The watch’s GMT hand is similar to the hour hand, but blends into the background, as it isn’t filled in with Super-LumiNova to avoid becoming a distraction. Similarly, the 24-hour markings have been very discreetly printed on the railway track chapter ring – reading the time remains a priority, and the GMT complication does not detract from this. The GMT hand has a quick set function accessible via the pusher at 10 o’clock, to make changing the local time a breeze when one crosses into a new time zone.

gMt Lim Cher Yong: I will prefer much larger numbers for the GMT markings. If not, I’d rather have a 12-hour GMT sub-dial with a separate day/night indication. Either of these will make it easier to tell the time at a glance.

Daniel Thoo: The pusher for adjusting the GMT hand is very convenient.

Chris Cheong: I agree, but the convenience comes with a risk of accidentally actuating the pusher though. By setting the GMT hand with a crown, there will be no such issue, so it’s a matter of preference and balancing the pros and cons.

Li ing: Normally, important switches in the cockpit will have a guard that must be flicked up first, or both pilots must press their respective switches to activate that function. A guard of some sort will be nice.

Case 48mm in steel, water resistant to 100m MoveMent Self-winding Elite 693 with 50-hour power reserve strap Brown calfskin leather with rubber lining and stainless steel pin buckle priCe RM28,500

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Date Li ing: I will prefer to have a date indicator that I can synchronise with GMT timing, just for convenience. The main hour and minute hands will follow GMT timing in this case, while the GMT hand will mark local time.

Bezel Lim Cher Yong: The bezel probably isn’t that important for commercial airline pilots, since our computers track all the parameters for us. When I was in the military, there was no time to look at the wrist as well – if I had to ‘hack’ time for certain flight events, I used the dashboard chronograph. This is probably most useful for general aviation.

Li ing: I agree. It will be more useful for general flying, where a lot of procedures are time based, such as how long to hold a pattern for, or how much time must be spent doing a climb at a certain rate.

sInn 857 UtC testaf

Sinn’s tool watches are famously overengineered. The UX, for example, is filled with oil to resist external pressures of up to 1,200m underwater – far beyond a diver’s limits. The brand has taken a similar approach in making its pilot watches.

To that end, it even developed a set of technical standards with the Faculty of Aerospace Technology at the Aachen University of Applied Sciences. The result, TESTAF, is meant to parallel existing standards for dive watches.

As its name suggests, the 857 UTC TESTAF has passed the battery of tests necessary to be certified TESTAF. They include legibility under different conditions,

resistance to shock and G-forces, the ability to withstand cycling temperatures, and timekeeping accuracy. The relative modernity of the standard (TESTAF was formalised in 2012) is reflected in the watch’s design – bold lines define the chapter ring and bezel markings, with Arabic numeral hour markers at only three, six, nine, and 12 o’clock on the dial. A count-up bezel measures elapsed time like a dive watch, but rotates in both directions.

The 857 UTC TESTAF’s GMT function occupies the centre of its dial. To demarcate this complication, the 24-hour ring is printed in orange, and the GMT hand is black with a matching orange arrowhead.

Case 43mm in steel, water resistant to 200m MoveMent Self-winding ETA 2893-2 strap Black cowhide leather with stainless steel pin buckle priCe RM11,900

testaf Chris Cheong: The inclusion of a certification like TESTAF might be good to have, but it has no relevance for us as commercial pilots. Similar standards will probably be a lot more useful for a diver who relies a lot more on his watch.

Daniel Thoo: Standards such as COSC and TESTAF aren’t as important to me as well, compared to brand equity. I must trust the brand first, and what it has done in the past.

Li ing: It’s different for me. If I spend money on something, I expect it to perform. That’s part of the assurance I want, and the satisfaction comes from the object’s quantified performance.

Knowing that it is certified TESTAF impresses me, and gives me confidence in the product.

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BreItlIng navItIMer gMt

Breitling has a strong aviation heritage. To name just two reasons for this, most of its collections are dedicated to pilot watches, and it has a history of supplying timepieces to various air forces. Among its offerings, the Navitimer is one of the most iconic, and most closely associated with the slide rule bezel; this iteration retains that function while adding a GMT complication.

The circular slide rule on the Navitimer functions as an analogue computer – by turning the bezel to rotate the outer scale on the inner flange vis-à-vis the fixed inner scale, its wearer can perform multiplication and division calculations, as well as unit conversion. Before the advent of digital technology, this was invaluable for tasks such as the computation of the aircraft’s fuel consumption rate.

As a testament to the strength of its design, the Navitimer has remained largely unchanged since its introduction in 1952, even as modern technology has removed the need for a slide rule. The GMT complication remains useful though. The watch is powered by the in-house Breitling 04 movement, which is COSC-certified. To ensure that legibility is not compromised given the slide rule, tri-compax chronograph layout, and 24-hour GMT scale, the watch is housed in a 48mm stainless steel case.

Case 48mm in steel, water resistant to 30m MoveMent Self-winding Breitling 04 with 70-hour power reserve strap Black leather with stainless steel pin buckle priCe RM31,620

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Chronogr aPh Daniel Thoo: The chronograph is a fun complication to have in a watch, but again, it’s not something that we need in this day and age. We already have three integral ones in the cockpit.

Chris Cheong: Counting elapsed time is still an important part of our operations, but most of them don’t need to be precise to the second. If I perform an action at 12:36 and know that I need to follow up in five minutes, I’ll just make a mental note to do so at 12:41.

slIDe rUle Li ing: The slide rule is very smooth and easy to operate. Every pilot is still trained to use it, so it’s a nice touch, especially from an aesthetic angle.

gMt Lim Cher Yong: The GMT indications are quite big, since the markings are on the main dial as well.

That makes it very legible, which is convenient for me.

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vUlCaIn avIator gMt PIlot DlC

Vulcain’s take on the pilot watch combines the alarm complication it is known for with a worldtimer to track the local time of not just one, but multiple cities. The former isn’t a novelty within the field of aviation though, as watches equipped with mechanical alarms were given to Swissair pilots in the 1950s for them to track critical milestones during a flight.

The Cricket Calibre V-10 inside the Aviator GMT Pilot DLC is a hand-wound movement beating at 18,000vph, and sports a separate winding system for its alarm. When it is fully wound, the mechanical alarm is capable of ringing for around 20 seconds. As its name implies, the alarm’s bright metallic sound signature resembles a cricket’s chirping, and is loud enough to wake a person up. Do not be worried though – to Vulcain’s credit, the alarm has been tuned to sound bright, but does not become piercing or unpleasant. The alarm can be set up to 12 hours in advance by moving the red hand to the desired alarm time.

The other major complication in the watch is a worldtimer.

It follows the typical layout with a 24-hour chapter ring printed on the outer dial, and the cities ring on the rotating flange surrounding it. With day/night indications and each city’s daylight savings time also included, the major cities’ local times can be read at a glance. GMT is, of course, London’s.

Case 42mm in DLC-coated steel, water resistant to 100m MoveMent Manual-winding Cricket Calibre V-10 with 42-hour power reserve strap Black leather with stainless steel pin buckle priCe RM21,190

CrICket gMt Lim Cher Yong: I alarM willing: prefer much Li It’ll actually larger numbers be quite useful for theus GMT markings. for to time our If not,especially I’d rather on rest, havehaul a 12-hour long flights.

GMT sub-dial with That’s the main a separate day/ attraction. night indication.

Either of these Chris Cheong: It’swill make it easier to very loud, and will tell the time at a definitely wake a glance. person up. The ability to ‘snooze’ Thoo: The isDaniel quite important, pusher for Iadjusting and useful. can the feel GMTa hand also bit of is very convenient. the vibration on my wrist, so that helps.

Chris Cheong: Daniel Thoo: The I agree but the heritage behind convenience the alarm function with a risk iscomes quite appealing. of accidentally Obviously, alarms actuating can be set the with pusher though. smartphones, but to By setting the have one working on GMT and handsprings with a is gears crown there will quite a marvel.

be such issue, Limno Cher Yong: so it’sthe a matter of Yes, alarm is preference and good. It’s quite balancing therest prosto important for and cons. be uninterrupted, so I’d rather not turn on Lee ing: Normally, the light to see what important switches time it is, or face in cockpitbright will mythe phone’s have a guard that screen to check.

must be flicked up WorlDtIMer first, both pilots ChrisorCheong: must press their The worldtimer respective switches chapter ring is a tolittle activate that difficult to read, function. because Aofguard all the ofnumerous some sortmarkings. will be nice.

There’s too much information.

Date

Lee ing: Thoo: I will The Daniel prefer to have a markings might date indicator become morethat I will synchronise legible if the with GMT watch is upsized, timing, justmight for but there convenience.

The still be too much main hour andto information minute hands will look and process. follow GMT timing

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Bell & ross Br 01-93 gMt

Bell & Ross’s watches model their aesthetics on various cockpit instruments, and the BR 01-93 is no exception. The watch sports a large 46mm case – a signature for the iconic BR 01 collection – but wears noticeably smaller due to the short lugs. Its size, however, affords great legibility that is further enhanced by its colour scheme; the watch is almost entirely black, with the exception of hands and markings that use orange and white for contrast and visibility.

The BR 01-93 maintains the signature dial design for Bell & Ross watches: Large Arabic numerals at three, six, nine, and 12 o’clock, and simple indices for the rest of the hour markers. To keep this intact, the 24-hour ring for the GMT complication is printed on the flange, where it surrounds the dial with an identical but smaller typeface. Similarly, the bold sword hands for the hours and minutes have remained untouched. The additional GMT hand is a broad orange arrow, and distinguishable at a glance. True to its intended function as a tool watch, the BR 01-93 runs on the workhorse ETA 2893 calibre, and has a black carbon powder coating on its case for scratch resistance.

Case 46mm in DLC-coated steel, water resistant to 100m MoveMent Self-winding ETA 2893-2 strap Black rubber with stainless steel pin buckle priCe RM19,000

DesIgn Li ing: The watch has very good legibility with its size and choice of font. The straightforward design helps too. Again, however, I will prefer the inclusion of a date function.

Daniel Thoo: I agree with the legibility of the watch. It’s very easy to read, even at a glance.

Chris Cheong: The attraction lies in its similarity to the altimeter we use in the cockpit. The design’s familiarity doesn’t make it any easier for me to read the time, however. A watch is still a watch, although I do like the rubber strap for its comfort.

Lim Cher Yong: The legibility is extremely good, and its size makes it perfect when worn over a flight suit. It’s a little uncomfortable for me, however, as it’s resting on the bone of my wrist.

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oUr PanellIsts ChrIs Cheong Cheong currently flies the Airbus A380 and attributes his fascination with watches to his job, where timekeeping is of paramount importance.

This led to his purchase of a Rolex GMT Master II, with several others following.

His current favourites are his Panerai Tuttonero Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica and Radiomir 8 Days.

lI Ing Li has been a commercial pilot for 10 years, and he had dabbled in various fields before settling on this profession. The 36-yearold is captivated by the fusion of form and function in mechanical timepieces, and is especially passionate about sports cars, designer furniture, and delicious food.

lIM Cher yong Lim had been a military pilot for 10 years before he moved into commercial flying. His relationship with watches stems from necessity – the wide range of destinations he flies to spurred him to look for watches with multiple time zone display.

While he prefers sportier timepieces in the cockpit, he goes for dress watches for formal occasions.

DanIel thoo Flying a commercial airliner is Daniel’s first job following graduation, and he’s been doing it for just under a decade. Daniel’s interest in horology began with his career, and started with the need for precision timekeeping for work before expanding to appreciating the craftsmanship and engineering that go into the making of watches.

teChnICally sPeakIng

Despite the lack of hard and fast rules, pilot watches share several common features in their designs

sIze Pilot watches are traditionally very large, with case sizes frequently exceeding 50mm. The oversized aspect of pilot watches aren’t limited to cases, as the larger dial allowed bigger indexes (always in Arabic numerals) and hands to be placed. This allowed time to be read at a glance. Larger cases could also house pocket watch movements that were more accurate. Of course, wearability was never an issue – watches were strapped over thick flight jackets, not naked wrists.

The usage of flight gloves also meant that crowns had to be big to allow winding and time setting operations to be performed easily. Interestingly enough, water resistance is not a concern at high altitudes, so traditional pilot watches often lack the screw-down crown their diving counterparts have.

soft Iron Core Magnetism was a real concern in the early days of aviation, what with the usage of analogue flight instruments and an open cockpit layout. A soft iron core acts as a Faraday cage to protect the movement against outside magnetism, which can most notably impact the hairspring and affect the movement’s accuracy. gMt CoMPlICatIon As aviation began taking off as an increasingly common mode of transport, the new era of jet-set lifestyles meant that people were crossing time zones on a regular basis.

Keeping track of different ones became a necessity, and was what drove the development of the GMT complication, which remains a perennial inclusion in pilot and travellers’ watches today.

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Extra timE

Here are four other interpretations of pilot watches, each with unique elements to aid the aviator oris Big Crown ProPilot altimEtEr

The Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter has a mechanical altimeter integrated into its 47mm case, and serves as a backup tool for pilots by indicating the altitude up to 15,000ft. Despite its name, the watch’s usefulness isn’t constrained to just pilots – it can serve as a useful tool for anyone who works at high altitudes, including mountaineers and research scientists.

The altimeter function is accessed by unscrewing the crown at four o’clock to subject it to the ambient air pressure and allow it to obtain a reading. Calibrating the altimeter is done by pulling said crown out after unscrewing it. In addition to the altimeter, the watch is also useful for giving readings of the air pressure – rapidly dropping pressure at the same altitude is one sign of an approaching storm, for instance.

To integrate the altimeter into the watch, the designers at Oris had to overcome several challenges, such as keeping the interior of the watch dry when the altimeter is in use. To do so, a membrane of PTFE is used to cover the altimeter’s crown to create a vapour barrier that keeps water vapour out.

Case 47mm in steel, water resistant to 100m MoveMent Self-winding Oris Calibre 733 based on Sellita SW200, with 38-hour power reserve strap Textile or leather strap, or metal bracelet priCe RM13,400 (textile and leather strap), RM14,000 (metal bracelet)

BrEmont U-22 BronzE

The U-22 is an extension of the U-2 collection that was originally designed for, and inspired by, the U-2 plane squadron. The eponymous plane typically flew at three times the altitude of commercial jetliners for its reconnaissance missions – high enough for its pilots to see the blackness of space and the curvature of the earth.

The U-22 Bronze is built on the extensive tests behind the U-2’s development, such as being operational within a U-2 plane’s unpressurised cockpit as it cruises at 70,000ft, and being subjected to temperatures as low as -50 degrees Celsius. It sports several changes compared to the original though. The biggest is the inner rotating bezel, which is now marked like a compass to help a pilot in navigation weather mapping. The date window has also been updated in the U-22 to look like a dashboard altimeter. Finally, the watch’s case middle has been given a bronze colour coating reminiscent of the antireflective surfaces of cockpit canopies.

Case 43mm in steel, water resistant to 100m MoveMent Self-winding BE-36AE with 38-hour power reserve strap Calfskin or rubber with stainless steel pin buckle priCe Price unavailable

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haMIlton khakI Chrono WorlDtIMer

The Khaki Chrono Worldtimer combines a chronograph with a worldtimer complication, but puts a unique twist on each of them thanks to its multifunction quartz calibre. The two complications are individually accessed via the “Mode” pusher at 10 o’clock, with the selected function indicated at two o’clock on the dial.

In the chronograph mode, the first 12 minutes are displayed via a central second and minute totalizer, before the sub-dial at 10 o’clock takes over to measure elapsed time of up to 120 minutes. When the worldtimer mode is active, the central minute totalizer points instead at the second time zone’s city, while the sub-dial at 10 o’clock shows the current hour there with day/night indications.

The watch has been designed in collaboration with aerobatic pilot Nicholas Ivanoff, who has put his own touches on it. Note the countdown bezel, which acts as a reminder for pilots for various flight events. The first four minutes on the chapter ring have also been highlighted in yellow, in a nod to the time limit for freestyle performances in aerobatics.

Case 45mm in steel, water resistant to 100m MoveMent Quartz H-41e strap Rubber or metal bracelet, or black leather strap priCe RM4,900 (rubber and metal bracelet), RM5,150 (leather strap)

glyCIne aIrMan DC-4

The Airman DC-4 pays tribute to the Douglas DC-4, a fourengine propeller plane, which was largely responsible for the conception and creation of the Airman collection. The Airman’s signature 24-hour dial was inspired by a 1953 conversation between Glycine’s sales director Sam Glur, and Captain Chat Brown, who was piloting the DC-4 that Glur was on. Brown had explained in detail what he required in a pilot watch, including the need for a 24-hour display and a GMT complication. The rest, as they say, is history.

The Airman DC-4 sports the collection’s iconic 24-hour dial, where the minute hand functions normally, but the hour hand completes a sweep every 24 hours instead of a conventional watch’s 12. A GMT hand allows one to track a second time zone with the same hour markers, while a rotating bezel allows a third time zone to be monitored, making this a true traveller’s watch.

Case 42mm in steel, water resistant to 200m MoveMent Self-winding GL 293 strap Textile strap priCe RM8,600

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Full Power

Rely on youR inneR StRength and you will be the winneR Photography Raymond / Capsule Production Styling Tok Wei Lun Model Daniel / Ave

Roger Dubuis Hommage Tourbillon Power Reserve in pink gold, RM600,000

Blancpain L-Evolution Tourbillon GMT 8 Jours in white gold, RM480,200

IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère RÊtrograde in platinum, RM477,000

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time in pink gold, RM117,000

Bulgari Bulgari-Bulgari Power Reserve in pink gold, RM83,700

Bell & Ross BR 03-90 B-Rocket in stainless steel, RM22,300

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Top of The pops Never has popular culture exerted such a strong influence on watchmaking – and vice versa – as now.

From box office blockbusters to comic book capers, music moguls to art aficionados, the admiration is mutual and, from the looks of it, here to stay Words AAron De SilvA

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W

ith over US$670 million in box office receipts to date, Christopher Nolan’s 2014 film Interstellar is a massive hit with global audiences and sci-fi fans. Watch enthusiasts, too, must have had a field day, seeing as how two Hamilton watches – a Khaki Automatic and a customdesigned piece – were central to the plot. Protagonist and NASA astronaut Cooper, played by Matthew McConaughey, gifted his daughter Murphy a Khaki Automatic before setting off on a mission, and later sends her a Morse code message by using gravitational waves to manipulate the watch’s second hand.

Hamilton is no stranger to movie placements, having chalked up over 400 film credits to date. It isn’t the only watch brand, of course. Dozens of others have product placement deals and film franchise agreements, like Omega and James Bond. Watches and films have long been partners in crime, but what’s interesting about the Hamilton/Interstellar collaboration is just how pivotal a plot device the watches came to be – not to mention the inordinate amount of screen time enjoyed.

Ever since the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking occurred in the 1990s, watches have increasingly infiltrated not just films, but various aspects of pop culture, and vice versa. Pop cultural influences from fields as diverse as art, comic books, music, and video games have found their way onto watches, mostly in the case or dial designs. Likewise, artists have depicted iconic watches in their artworks, while musicians – especially hip-hop artists – have name-dropped top-line marques in their tracks.

Sometimes the reference is direct; other times, it’s less distinct. Urwerk’s UR-210 Maltese Falcon is named after a ship in Star Wars, though it bears little resemblance to the actual spacecraft. Brand co-founder Felix Baumgartner is

Hamilton Khaki Automatic

Matthew McConaughey stars as Joseph “Coop” Cooper who gives a Hamilton Khaki Automatic to his young daughter, Murphy “Murph” Cooper, played by Mackenzie Foy

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omega seamaster Planet ocean 600m Quantum of solace Limited Edition (2008)

The secret agent’s infamous 007 insignia is emblazoned across the solid case back

daniel Craig as James Bond in Quantum of solace (2008)

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Urwerk Ur-210 Maltese Falcon MB&F MusicMachine 1 is reminiscent of a star Wars cruiser

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on the back, the owner of the Ur-210 can set winding efficiency according to activity level The Melchior by MB&F is one of the atelier’s 10th anniversary pieces

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The starfleet Machine and MusicMachine 2 would make Captain Jean-Luc picard proud, the former named after the space exploration/peacekeeping organisation in star Trek while the latter spouting the series’ titular track

MB&F MusicMachine 2 plays the star Trek main soundtrack

simply a big sci-fi fan. Likewise, the new UR-110 Eastwood does not evoke Hollywood actor/director Clint Eastwood in the least; it’s just that he’s Baumgartner’s favourite performer. “This is our generation. I was born in the 1970s. (Co-founder) Martin Frei was born in the 1960s. We grew up in the 1970s and 1980s. Our generation affects us a lot,” says Baumgartner, during a recent interview in Singapore.

The Force is strong over at MB&F, too. The brand’s MusicMachine 1 is reminiscent of a Star Wars cruiser, both visually and audibly (it plays the film’s theme song as well as the Imperial March from The Empire Strikes Back). Meanwhile, the Starfleet Machine and MusicMachine 2 would make Captain Jean-Luc Picard proud, the former named after the space exploration/peacekeeping organisation in Star Trek while the latter spouting the series’ titular track.

At Basel this year, MB&F celebrated its 10th anniversary by unveiling the Melchior, a robot clock that tells the time via two discs on its torso. In a recent interview in Singapore, founder Maximilian Büsser explains that his gizmos are the outcome of a subconscious design process rather than a conscious effort to mimic film props.

“I’m a child of the 1960s, brought up in the 1970s. We all thought that by the year 2000, we’d be living on the moon and driving flying cars.

Those dreams are being translated now. I rarely start off by saying I want to design something that looks like a spaceship. I just doodle (based on my imagination) and then I realise it comes from my subconscious. For me, it’s a form of psychotherapy!”

Sometimes, cross-fertilisation happens. Büsser relates how Ariel Adams, creator of the popular ablogtowatch.com, alerted him to a past episode of Marvel Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D, where a watch used by one of the characters closely resembled the HM3, “except that where the rotor is turning, they put some digital display instead!”

romain Jerome Batman-dNA

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CoMiC ReLief Besides the sci-fi genre, comic book superhero and action-adventure categories make rich sources for filmic references. Batman alone has two: Rolex “Batman” and Romain Jerome Batman-DNA. The Terminator franchise spawned Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph T3. Audemars Piguet also produced the “Bumblebee”, which came about in the wake of the first Transformers instalment.

The connections should come as no surprise, given the testosteronefuelled nature of such films, as well as the fact that the world of mechanical watches is still very much a male-dominated arena.

Romain Jerome CEO Manuel Emch, for instance, is a Dark Knight devotee. “I have always been a fan of Batman,” he says in a press statement. “His mysterious character and double identity is an inexhaustible source of inspiration. He represents a duality between good and evil in a contemporary world.” Ergo, the superhero’s emblem manifests as an applique on the dial. At night, the legendary BatSignal comes to life, thanks to a Super-LumiNova-filled engraving that outlines the applique. And the facetted bezel is redolent of the Batmobile’s angular contours.

Audemars Piguet’s longstanding relationship with Arnold Schwarzenegger – the action star-turned-politician was an early adopter of the ultra-macho Offshore in the 1990s – produced several special editions. The limited edition Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph End of Days (1999), which Arnie strapped on for the film of the same name, sparked the global appetite for oversized tickers and prompted other brands to jump on the bandwagon. The Royal Oak Offshore

Audemars Piguet Jay-Z limited edition royal oak offshore

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(Above) Audemars Piguet royal oak offshore Bumble Bee (Below) Audemars Piguet royal oak offshore End of days

shawn Carter by Hublot Classic Fusion

Irrevocably linked to the Transformers films, Audemars Piguet’s royal oak with yellow accents is a big hit with collectors

Chronograph T3 (2003), created in conjunction with the movie, trumped them all, with a ginormous 57.2mm titanium case, earning it the title of biggest Offshore ever made.

A lot of times, however, the watches aren’t affiliated to the films or officially endorsed by the brands. But the nicknames tend to stick because they’ve been (lovingly) designated by watch buffs. Rolex’s “Batman” and Audemars Piguet’s “Bumblebee” are prime examples. The former, a GMT-Master II, earned its moniker by virtue of its black and blue Cerachrom bezel, the colours recalling the monochromatic costume of the Dark Knight. The latter, a Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph with acid yellow flange, numerals, and hands contrasted against a black dial and bezel, was said to conjure up Sam Witwicky’s trusty Camaro, which transforms into the Autobot Bumblebee.

This phenomenon can be explained by the need to create an emotional attachment to the watch. Büsser, for instance, believes that his customers tend to project their own stories onto their MB&F pieces. “It’s always something from their childhood,” he says. “When we came out with the HM2, one guy said it looked like a DJ set. Another said it was a cooking range, and yet another said it was a radar machine.”

CEo of Hublot ricardo Guadalupe with Jay-Z

hip-hop hooRay Watchmaking’s links with the music industry is well established.

American hip-hop mogul Shawn Carter, aka Jay-Z, is a renowned watch collector and close friend of François-Henry Bennahmias, CEO of Audemars Piguet, who was also for many years president of the brand in North America.

In 2005, to celebrate Jay-Z’s 10th anniversary in the music business, Audemars Piguet collaborated with the rapper to produce a 100-piece limited edition Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph with a small ‘10’ in diamonds on the dial.

In 2006, to repay the favour, Jay-Z’s then-fiancée Beyoncé praised the brand in her single Upgrade U, singing, “Partner, let me upgrade you/Audemars Piguet you”.

Jay-Z, too, name-dropped the brand (as well as Rolex) in his 2011 track Ni**as in Paris: “Ball so hard, got a broke clock/Rollies that don’t tick-tock/ Audemars that’s losing time, hidden behind all these big rocks”.

In the last couple of years, however, JayZ’s allegiance has shifted from Audemars Piguet to competitor Hublot, as chronicled in his single Otis, a collaboration with rap superstar Kanye West: “I guess I got my swagger back, truth/New watch alert, Hublots/Or the rolex oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II ref. 116710BLNr nicknamed Batman

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President of Hublot, JeanClaude Biver, with members of depeche Mode

big face Rollie, I got two of those”. The move did not go unnoticed by Hublot’s then-chairman Jean-Claude Biver, who invited the rapper to visit the manufacture in Nyon.

This eventually led to a – you guessed it – limited edition watch in 2013, the Shawn Carter by Hublot Classic Fusion. But not before Beyoncé surprised him with a US$5 million diamond-encrusted Big Bang for his 43rd birthday in 2012 – a choice accessory for a hip-hop mogul, really.

Biver’s courting of musical powerhouses didn’t end there. Hublot collaborated twice with Depeche Mode, in 2010 and 2013. The first outing produced a 12-piece run of Big Bangs with the iconic band’s album covers interpreted on the dial.

These were then auctioned off for charity.

The next venture resulted in a 250-piece collection of jet-black Big Bangs with clous de Paris-styled bezels and straps.

Shortly after becoming head of LVMH’s watch and jewellery division, Biver persuaded no less than the Rolling Stones to loan its trademark 208

“Tongue and Lips” logo for use on the 250-piece Zenith Chronomaster 1969 Rolling Stones edition. “Working with the Rolling Stones is very important because it throws some light on Zenith,” its CEO Aldo Magada told WOW in 2014. “They’re an iconic band, and of course we have an iconic movement. We think it will be good in terms of awareness.”

aRT DéCoR For a brand as aggressive and trendy as Hublot, no industry is off limits when it comes to inspiration and collaborations.

After music, it was the art world’s turn.

First was 2014’s Big Bang Pop Art, an homage to legendary artist Andy Warhol’s (1928–1987) Six Self-Portraits from 1986. The four watches in the collection were daubed in pink, blue, purple, and green, corresponding to the artworks’ vibrant palette.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 for The rolling stones

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Hublot Big Bang depeche Mode has a rock-chic case and strap accented by pyramids Hublot Big Bang Pop Art raised eyebrows with its wacky colour scheme

Part of its sales proceeds go to the Charity : Water for which Hublot has raised $1.4 million Non gem-paved versions are equally colourful and eyecatching

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Brazilian artist romero Britto collaborated with Hublot in 2014 for the FIFA World Cup

Continuing in the Pop Art vein is this year’s Classic Fusion Enamel Britto, produced in tandem with Brazilian artist Romero Britto, who also designed the multi-coloured football for Hublot for last year’s FIFA World Cup. Britto provided the creative stimulus; Hublot’s enamel artisans took his lead, using Grand Feu, cloisonne and champlevé techniques to create the polychromatic dial.

Warhol is also being fêted by Piaget this year. In the 1970s, the artist wore a Piaget yellow gold cushion-shaped watch, which had a unique stepped bezel and quartz-based Beta 21 movement. Now, Piaget has revived the distinctive case’s shape and dimensions (40 x 45mm), albeit rendering it in white gold, and naming it the Black Tie Vintage. The movement has also been replaced – naturally – with a slim automatic variety, the 534P. In 1962, Warhol painted a series of works depicting Coca-Cola and Pepsi. Considering his love of iconic brands and imagery, it’s curious that he never painted a Rolex, especially the GMT-Master and GMT-Master II, which have been variously nicknamed “Coke”, “Pepsi” and “Rootbeer” since the first watch was launched in 1955.

The names correspond to the colour combination of the bezel insert or dial – the first GMT-Master (Ref. 6542 or “Pepsi”) sported a red-andblue bezel insert that had nothing to do with the beverage company, but with Pan American World Airways (Pan Am), with whom it collaborated to produce the watch.

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(Above) Hublot Classic Fusion Enamel Britto (Below) rolex oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II ref. 116719BLro

A subsequent model, Ref. 16753, was known as “Rootbeer” for its brown dial and brown-and-gold bezel insert. In 1983, the first GMT-Master II (Ref. 16760) made its debut, along with the first “Coke” (red-and-black) bezel insert. Today the watch’s current incarnation, Ref. 116710, has “Batman” and “Pepsi” editions with bi-coloured Cerachrom bezel inserts. Could “Coke” and “Rootbeer” be rendered in Cerachrom next? Only time will tell.

TWeen spiRiT A plethora of books, video games, and cartoon characters have left their marks on watches too. In 2013, IWC extolled popular children’s book The Little Prince with a series of limited editions, including the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW502802) and the Pilot’s Watch Mark XVII Edition “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW326506). Ingeniously (not to mention adorably), the iconic image of the Prince standing atop his small home planet as he hurtles through space appears in the moon phase aperture of the perpetual calendar model.

iWC extolled popular children’s book The Little prince with a series of limited editions, including the Big pilot’s Watch perpetual Calendar edition “Le petit prince”

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince”

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVII Edition “Le Petit Prince”

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Timeless icons like Pac-Man, space Invaders, and Mickey Mouse have all found their way into watchmaking

Like Hublot, Romain Jerome’s inspiration knows no bounds. Besides the Batman-DNA watch, two of the brand’s biggest successes have been its PAC-MAN and SPACE INVADERS series, owing to the fact that many watch enthusiasts would have grown up in the 1980s with fond memories of playing the video games.

To date, two versions of PAC-MAN and four versions of SPACE INVADERS have been launched.

No feature on pop culture would be complete without mention of Walt Disney’s Mickey Mouse. Ingersoll’s Mickey Mouse watch sold more than 25 million pieces during a wildly successful 38-year run from 1933 to 1971, when the partnership between the watchmaker and animator ceased. In the 1980s, legendary watch designer Charles Gérald Genta (1931–2011) revived interest in the beloved cartoon by obtaining a licence from Disney to produce limited edition character watches in 18K gold cases. Showing his playful side, Genta incorporated his signature retrograde minutes and jumping hour complications, using Mickey’s hands to indicate the minutes.

This year, Omega rolled out a special Snoopy Award edition Speedy at BaselWorld, to the delight of Omegamaniacs everywhere. It’s not the first time the company has produced a Snoopy piece; an earlier version from 2003 showcased the loveable beagle wearing a space helmet on the sub-dial at nine o’clock. This time round, Snoopy assumes his favourite prone position at nine o’clock, with a thought bubble saying ‘Failure is not an option’. Omega also added the rhetorical question, ‘What could you do in 14 seconds?’ on the flange between the 12 and three o’clock indexes. Both catchphrases allude to the heroic efforts of the crew of the failed Apollo 13 mission – 2015 marks the 70th anniversary of the incident. Snoopy is a NASA mascot, and both Omega and the crew received the Silver Snoopy Award in 1945.

With Hamilton’s weighty presence in Interstellar, MB&F’s Starfleet and MusicMachines blazing a trail on social media, and Omega’s Snoopy Award Speedies proving a huge hit with collectors, perhaps space isn’t quite the final frontier it used to be. At least not in watchmaking.

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omega speedmaster Apollo 13 silver snoopy Award

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Iron Age

Vincent Perriard, CEO of HYT Watches, gives us his take on the HYT Skull Red Eye-Iron Man connection

The Skull Red Eye has been nicknamed the Iron Man watch, but this was not the original intention, was it?

No, definitely not – in fact, I have to wonder whether Iron Man saw some of our early sketches!

Can you share some of the technical challenges you faced in forming the capillary tube to get a shape that would provide an accurate reading of the hours?

With the Skull, we really wanted to see how far we could go in terms of design and engineering of the capillary (tube). Perfecting the skull shape of the tube, which measures less than one millimetre in diameter, was a significant challenge in itself. The issue centred on the capillary’s four angles, two of which are almost 90 degrees at the base. These curves meant that bending the glass was a particularly delicate task.

This shape is a big move away from the H1 and H2, which both have capillaries that are almost perfectly round. This led to the second big challenge, which was to generate enough power to move the liquid out of the active bellow, into the capillary and through the sharp angles at the right speed, ensuring that the fluid indicates the correct time – all this with perfect regularity over a 12-hour cycle. The journey wasn’t easy and for a certain painful and rather expensive testing period, we broke nine out of 10 capillaries until we mastered the technique!

What have been some of the responses to the watch?

We’ve had all sorts! We’ve had people crazy about the design, we’ve had people saying the Skull is eerie and they have the impression that the watch is watching them, we’ve had people asking whether we can custom other capillary designs for them, and we’ve had people saying they don’t like it at all. We’ve had a lot of interest, and this is what we wanted.

What is your own response to the Iron Man association?

The team and I were very excited to read the comments on social (and traditional) media, or even by receiving the messages from our retailers and distributors: “We want this Iron Man watch!” We are now very proud to group different generations and people around this mythical pop cultural reference.

In general, do you think pop cultural references help create a stronger emotional connection with watch buyers, enthusiasts, and collectors?

I think pop cultural references help create stronger links and emotions with people. However, it has to be well thought out. Nowadays, all luxury brands (have some) celebrity or sports partnerships. Watch buyers, enthusiasts, and collectors are conscious of that, and it becomes less inspirational and original for them than it was few years ago. Indeed, I had the chance to see the evolution of these associations. At the beginning of my career 15 years ago, I met Arnold Schwarzenegger with Audemars Piguet at a time when nobody was doing this kind of partnership. He loved the brand and the watch, and then accepted to wear it. It was, even for him, an emotional experience!

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CrAnIAl CrAze

Skull-themed watches show no signs of abating. WOW examines this intriguing phenomenon

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ecent years have witnessed a rash of skull-themed watches. Bell & Ross, Hublot, HYT, Richard Mille, and Romain Jerome all released various interpretations of the motif.

At this year’s Basel fair, Bell & Ross introduced its BR 01 Air Skull Bronze, continuing the skull-and-crossbones design that began with 2009’s BR 01 Airborne, which paid tribute to

Bell & ross Br 01 Airborne

Bell & ross Br 01 Air skull Bronze

the valour of paratroopers from US Airborne divisions. The soldiers’ motto, “Death from Above”, is represented by a skull as a reminder of both their might and vulnerability. But enough with the doom and gloom. The 500-piece 2015 edition is the most striking yet, with a bronze case – the brand’s first – that will develop a unique patina over time. In the dark, the dial gives off an eerie iridescence thanks to the application of green lume.

With the launch of The Avengers: Age of Ultron this year, HYT smartly taps into the zeitgeist with its new Skull Red Eye, the dial of which some claim resembles Iron Man’s mask (which is shaped like a stylised skull). HYT Watches CEO Vincent Perriard denies the association (see previous page), but popular opinion can be difficult to sway.

Last year, Hublot gave us not one, but three watches with skull designs as part of its on-going skull series.

The Classic Fusion Skull Bang Pavé comes in two versions, one with its case, dial, bezel, and lugs set with white diamonds, plus a skull embellished with black diamonds. The other version sees its case, dial, bezel, and lugs being studded with black diamonds, and a skull encrusted with white diamonds.

Less decorative and more horological was the Classic Fusion Skeleton Tourbillon Skull, which Hublot Classic Fusion skull Bang Pavé

HYT skull red Eye reminds watch aficionados of superhero Iron Man

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richard Mille Tourbillon rM 052 skull

boasted bridges that were laser-sculpted to resemble actual bones and a tourbillon bridge shaped like a skull. Hublot gave us two versions of this unique movement, one with a black galvanic treatment, and the other with rhodium plating and micro-blasted finish to give a white appearance.

Richard Mille’s Tourbillon RM 052 Skull, unveiled in 2012, also employed the clever use of three-dimensional movement architecture to showcase a skull motif. For instance, the upper and lower jaws of the skull hold the ruby of the tourbillon cage, while the back of the skull doubles as the movement’s centre bridge.

Mankind has always held a fascination with skulls. In the 16th and 17 th centuries, Flemish painters routinely incorporated skulls in their still lifes. Skulls became symbols of an art form known as vanitas – vanity in Latin – which stemmed from the concept of memento mori, the notion of the vanity/ meaninglessness of earthly life and the ephemeral nature of all earthly goods and pursuits. In the 18 th century, no pirate ship would be caught dead without a Jolly Roger flag flying from its mast. The origin of the flag’s skull-and-crossbones symbol is debated, though the connection between the pirates’ marauding behaviour and the universal symbol of death is plainly obvious.

Skulls also feature prominently in the American Halloween tradition or the Mexican Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) festival – both deriving from the Christian celebrations of All Souls and All Saints Day, which fall on November 1 and 2 (respectively) each year. The Mexican celebration, in fact, inspired Romain Jerome’s watch of the same name. Launched in 2012, it featured an attractive skull-shaped applique made using champlevé enamelling, and came in two versions – one with a cross on the skull’s forehead, and one without.

The prevalence of skull designs in horology is a curious phenomenon, if you consider the memento mori perspective.

As a device that tells the time, a watch is a reminder of the transience of life. At the same time, a watch is a often a luxury object, the skull motif only serving to emphasise its ephemerality. Are watchmakers subconsciously tapping into this deep-seated psyche? Or are they simply appealing to our innate desire to flirt with danger, tempt fate and dance with death? In all likelihood, it’s a bit of both.

romain Jerome dia de los Muertos

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Surf & Turf

On land or at sea, there’s always a place for horology’s finest

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ROLEX

Words Celine Yap

f there were only one brand that could be said to have properly conquered the highest mountains and deepest oceans, hands down and no questions asked, it would be Rolex. Of course, it wasn’t alone in its quests. With the help of two distinguished gentlemen, Sir Edmund Hillary and James Cameron, Rolex was the first watch brand to have scaled Mount Everest and also the first to descend down the Mariana Trench.

So if you’re looking for a watch with serious moxie, get a Rolex.

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Oyster PerPetual rOlex DeePsea D-Blue Dial

Proudly, the Deepsea is Rolex’s most over-engineered dive watch. It has to be, in order to withstand the atmospheric pressures at 3,900m below sea level. Using aerospace-grade materials and tested in a hyperbaric tank specially developed for Rolex by COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises), the Deepsea’s secret weapon is its patented Ringlock System that enables it to endure up to three tonnes of pressure on its crystal. Nitrogen-alloyed steel case, a five millimetrethick domed sapphire crystal, and grade 5 titanium case back work together to form a hermetic seal that only gets tighter as pressure builds around the watch.

Oyster PerPetual exPlOrer ii

It’s not possible to talk about the Rolex Explorer without mentioning the legendary Everest climb by Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay in 1953. But Rolex didn’t take on only Mount Everest; in 2008, it was part of an expedition to scale Annapurna in northcentral Nepal. Well protected from water, dust, pressure, as well as shock, the Explorer is simply built for extreme adventure, and so is the Explorer II with its additional GMT function. Both models feature the patented Twinlock double waterproofness system, but the Explorer II has an additional quickset hour function for the second time zone.

Whether with a black or white dial, the oversized orange hand stands out and remains legible all night and day.

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CARTIER

rom the Santos to the Tank, to the Tortue and the Rotonde, every Cartier timepiece is an exercise in elegance, which explains why no matter which model you’re looking at, there is always that unmistakeable Cartier touch. And even when this venerable marque decided to create sports watches, its DNA remains intact. For Cartier, it’s mostly about the details, although technology factors largely in the products as well. They don’t often tell you that, but Cartier’s watches, especially the Fine Watchmaking pieces, are products of the industry’s most cutting-edge technology and quality testing.

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CaliBre De Cartier Diver

Other than the Pasha Seatimer, which is no longer in production, the Calibre de Cartier Diver is Cartier’s only seaworthy timepiece.

Constructed to exceed the requirements of the ISO6425 standard for dive watches, its case and bezel – unidirectional, of course – have been design for maximum robustness and utility. This watch also has something that no other dive watches has: ADLC-coated bezel.

First introduced by Cartier in 2009 with the Santos 100 ADLC, this surface treatment stands for amorphous diamond-like carbon, and is distinguished from regular DLC in that the underlying material will not be exposed even when the surface is scratched. The use of luminous Roman numerals in a dive watch is also unique to Cartier.

tank

Its design is based on the horizontal section of the Renault military tanks of World War I, but the Cartier Tank has a unique aesthetic that is less military-inspired and more classic, timeless. Just two years shy of a century old, the iconic Tank now exists in myriad examples, including the Louis Cartier, the Américaine, Française, Anglaise, Solo, and most recently, the MC, which stands for Manufacture Cartier. What makes the Tank MC stand apart from all the others is the exclusive use of in-house movements, most prominently, Calibre 1904 MC or 1904-CH MC for the chronograph version. Skeletonised models use the spectacular Calibre 9611 MC with bridges shaped like Roman numerals as well as Calibre 9616 MC mounted on sapphire plates and bridges.

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TUDOR

ith an insatiable yen for adventure, Tudor timepieces have explored the dark world of volcanic eruption, sub-zero Arctic lands, and chilling oceanic depths. These realms may all be different, but they still have one thing in common – the promise of escape. Coupled with a pure design that balances modern with vintage perfectly, these watches are equally legitimate in the stylish urban jungle. Even if they were to never make it to those far reaches of the planet, Tudor’s timepieces still pack a heck of a punch.

PelagOs

Immediately identified by the snowflake hour hand, which it shares with the Heritage Black Bay, the Pelagos is Tudor’s de facto dive watch, capable of 500-metre depths.

Prominent hour markers, chunky hands, and a unidirectional turning bezel confirm its aquatic nature. First released in 2012, the Pelagos has now become one of the most easily recognised models of the brand. This year’s new version with a matte blue dial and bezel would win Tudor even more fans if the one in black gets a little conventional.

This certified chronometer comes with an in-house movement, Calibre MT5612.

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FastriDer ChrOnO

If you’re a fan of motorcycles, then Ducati would not only be a familiar name, but one that’s perched high on your two-wheeler bucket list. Whether it’s the classic Monster or the Panigale superbike, a Ducati is always instantly recognisable, just like the new Scrambler.

This throwback to the 1970s is more than a motorcycle; it is an entire lifestyle. Perhaps this is why it is such a perfect fit with Tudor watches.

After the Fastrider Black Shield released in 2013, the Swiss brand re-emerges this year with the Fastrider Chrono, a sports watch inspired by the taut lines and sinewy curves of the Ducati Scrambler. Three dial colours reflect the various Scrambler versions: Bright yellow (the original colour of the motorcycle), olive green (sure to be a hit with the hipsters), and red, which is the classic colour of Ducati. Most tellingly, the collaboration spurred Tudor to create a new strap that brings to mind the seats of classic motorcycles.

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ROGER DUBUIS

he epitome of modern luxury, Roger Dubuis is young when compared to its peers. However, when it comes to watchmaking know-how, it has a mind of an old-timer – literally, for its founder, the watchmaker Roger Dubuis, has returned on board as adviser. A challenge for many other watch companies, complications are simply all in a day’s work at Roger Dubuis, and all of them stamped with the prestigious Geneva Seal to boot. The tourbillon is probably its favourite complication, seeing as it makes and sells so many of them. As a matter of fact, Roger Dubuis is one of the few luxury watch companies that had ever made a diving tourbillon. Such is its hubristic watchmaking philosophy that explains why Roger Dubuis’s watches are in a league of their own.

easyDiver

Bold design has always been at the heart of any Roger Dubuis timepiece and the EasyDiver is no exception. Not a watch for the meek, the EasyDiver upsized everything from case and bezel to indices and hands, as one would expect from a dive watch. Yet, this watch isn’t just about performance and utility; a whole lot of style makes up the package. Variations include an automatic model with small seconds, a chronograph with an in-house manufactured movement Calibre RD78, and a stunning skeletonised flying tourbillon Calibre RD02SQ3.

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exCaliBur

A tribute to the legendary sword of King Arthur, Excalibur by Roger Dubuis is its flagship collection and the star of this year’s novelties. A plethora of variations enliven the Excalibur family in 45mm, 42mm, and 36mm cases, but the most revered one has to be the skeleton double flying tourbillon. Fast becoming Roger Dubuis’s signature complication, the skeleton double flying tourbillon takes centre stage this year with the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon and also the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon with gem-set rubber bezel. The manufacture has also been know to take things literally with the Excalibur, having released two limited editions that hark back to King Arthur’s medieval times.

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BREITLING

eeling most at home in the great outdoors, Breitling is more than a brand for aviators. Conquering air and land, as well as sea, it is also the maker of the Emergency watch, which has an in-built homing signal that famously saved the life of a hunter stranded in the Alaskan wilderness. All COSC-certified chronometers, every Breitling timepiece is a sturdy, reliable, and high performance instrument – the kind you can literally put your life in the hands of. Whether you’re scaling the highest mountains or diving off the world’s most beautiful coasts, these watches are built for that purpose.

suPerOCean ii

First introduced in the 1950s, the Breitling Superocean has taken on numerous guises over the 58 years of its existence, from the minimalist and classical Superocean Heritage to the bold, stylish, and contemporary Superocean Chronograph. New for 2015 is the Superocean II, which comes in three sizes, 36mm, 42mm, and 44mm. Its design is most closely associated with the Superocean Chronograph Steelfish – note the full hour numerals and more sober choice of font. Still, it has its own unique merits; the Superocean II has a redesigned dial and bezel, as well as a slimmer profile.

MOntBrillant 01

Looking a little like the Navitimer, yet its is not a Navitimer; the circular slide rule and the knurled bi-directional bezel are all it shares with the classic aviation icon. In fact, Breitling’s Montbrillant 01 is a tribute to the location of Breitling’s workshops between 1892 and 1979. This historical building, situated on Ruelle Montbrillant in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, is no longer used by the manufacture, but it can be found engraved on the solid case back of this timepiece, along with a classical inscription of the name of the brand’s founder, Léon Breitling.

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EDOX

ith Edox as its name, it’s hard for it not to be technical. Obsessed with improving the performance of its watches, its famous Delfin watch was the first that had a double case back, special protective gaskets, and a unique double o-ring system patented in 1961 that set new standards of shock protection and water resistance. Soon after, Edox became synonymous with extreme water resistance. Out of the water, the company continues to push the limits. The famous Bluebird made by Edox in 1969 was famously scratch resistant and very strongly built, with reinforced double-backed case and shock absorbers. In 1970, Edox also made the world’s first genuine world timer that covers a whopping 50 different time zones, plus local time. Taking serious watchmaking chops to the limits of human exploration, Edox never stops discovering.

granD OCean

The Edox Hydro-Sub is a superb diving piece, but for above-the-water sports, the company deploys the Grand Ocean. Anchored in a world of regattas, the Grand Ocean lives by three principles: precision, technicality, and sportsmanship. As the official timepiece of the world’s most exhilarating yacht race, the Extreme Sailing Series, the oversized cases, robust pushers, and sturdy rubber straps guarantee performance as do all other Edox models.

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ChrOnOrally

Going the distance is less about speed and more about endurance, a concept that the Edox Chronorally is all about. Built to survive the harsh conditions of everything from rustic country road to high-speed autobahns, it personifies your inner daredevil. And just like your favourite racing automobiles – especially for NASCAR and WRC fans – it features cutting-edge materials like titanium and carbon fibre, and comes in a host of bright bold hues to signal your club allegiance.

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CONVERSE & CONVENE

Photo Patek Philippe

Engaging with the movers and shakers of the watch industry

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INTERV IEWS

keeping the faith As the fourth-generation owner of the esteemed Patek Philippe watch company, Thierry Stern carries the weight of the world on his shoulders, but he also has it at his feet Words & INTErVIEW CeLine Yap

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t’s not easy being the president of such a venerated company as Patek Philippe, although one could say that Thierry Stern had been training his whole life for this role; one could even say he was born for it. He is a part of the family after all, and growing up in what must be the most revered of watchmaking institutions, it was almost impossible not to be impassioned by the craft. Upon completing his studies at the École de Commerce in Geneva, and then an accelerated program at the Watchmaking School of Geneva, Stern found himself at a fork in the road. He had to choose between pursuing further education and going straight into the business. Knowing full well that sitting in a classroom or an office all day is not his idea of work, with the blessing of his father, Stern made a beeline for the workforce.

He started out as an administrative employee with Patek Philippe and was dispatched to Germany where he spent two years working very closely with two large Patek Philippe retailers. This was when he picked up all the tricks of the retail trade and learned how to sell. After Germany, he flew across the Atlantic Ocean to the U.S. to work at one of the largest Patek Philippe subsidiaries, the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York, where he was trained in sales, inventory management for bracelets and components, after-sales service, and business relations.

Next, Stern went into production by joining Ateliers Réunis SA, the company that made bracelets and cases for Patek Philippe, working alongside great watchmaking artisans and craftsmen. In 1997, he went back to the commercial side and took on the role of marketing manager for Patek Philippe in the Benelux region. Finally, he returned to the company headquarters in Geneva. From 1998 to 2003, he was responsible for product development and creation. Thereafter, he was ready to lead Patek Philippe alongside his father, until 2009 when the torch was officially passed to him.

It’s been six years since Thierry Stern ascended to the role of brand president of Patek Philippe. He took over the reins from his father, Philippe Stern, who is today the company’s honorary president. The older Stern had, in turn, succeeded his own father, Henri Stern, in 1993. Indeed, over the 83 years that the Stern family owned Patek Philippe, the company had always been passed down from father to son. Stern’s management style is thus not one that can be learned from books. It is only inherited from his predecessors and absorbed through sheer passion and intuition. Like this, Patek Philippe continues to be the strong, family-owned traditional watchmaker for generations.

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Congratulations on the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe as well as the beautiful collection that resulted from this commemoration. Can you share with us your thoughts on this major milestone?

On the one hand, it is a relief because after seven years of hard work, we finally could present the collection. It was a long process and when you work this long, you’ll be happy to present the results. Yet, at the same time, you’re a little sad. Something like this is unique and I would like to see it hopefully three times in my life. I witnessed the 150th anniversary, now I’m part of the 175th anniversary, and I hope I will be here for the 200th because that would definitely be my anniversary. To me, the 175th is the anniversary of my father because he’s the one who really led the company at the time.

Tell us more about process that led to the collection.

First, it’s never easy to work on something you have to wait seven years to present. You have to know the market very well. Our main objective was to think about what was really missing in the collection. I wasn’t simply going to break records in terms of number of complications. That’s something we already did with the Star Calibre, Calibre 89. So I spoke to my father. I asked him, “Do you think we should do something even more complicated or something different?” Without hesitation, he said we should do something different. He also said it should be done in a wristwatch this time. After analysing the collection and listening to the clients, we arrived at the concept of Grandmaster Chime.

The two faces of Grandmaster Chime ref. 5175

How did you go about creating this watch?

This was a very complicated movement to realise. For us, we took on the challenge and I think it was quite fun because the first thing you have to establish is what you are willing and able to add to it. Of course we added complications, but we also wanted something new because when you do something like this, it’s important to show that while we are able to fabricate something complicated, we can also be creative. I think it’s very important for a brand to have ideas and not just redo things already existing in the time of pocket watches.

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INTERV IEWS

Front and back views of Calibre 300 Gs AL 36-750 QIs FUs IrM

“It’s important to show that while we are able to fabricate something complicated, we can also be creative. I think it’s very important for a brand to have ideas and not just redo things already existing in the time of pocket watches” Did you meet any challenges along the way?

It was interesting because from the beginning we have been developing this watch with a single dial. About a year into the R&D, my father showed me a pocket watch perpetual calendar he had acquired for the museum. It was a very beautiful watch, very sober, very clean. And then he said the words, “By the way, I would like to add a perpetual calendar into the anniversary watch because it’s a beautiful complication.” (Laughs) I was stunned for a moment and of course I told him that it would change the whole project! He simply said, “Well, figure it out.” (Laughs) How did you overcome this unique challenge?

To include a perpetual calendar, we cannot have a simple dial.

That’s how we came upon the idea of a double-face watch. The only other way is to realise two watches, which was out of the question. I’ve always enjoyed the challenge of working on a double-face watch because the difficulty is to make it simple for the client. You see, as a watchmaker you’re willing to do very complicated things, but you need to think for the person 232

who’s wearing it. We looked two years for a good solution to manipulate the case and eventually found a way for the watch to be manipulated easily by taking the two lugs, bending them a little, and flipping it over with one finger. We patented it as soon as we were sure it works and I’m certain we will reuse it in the future.

What else stands out to you about this product?

I had also chosen to show the skill of Patek in terms of engraving.

I think it’s a nice idea in terms of design. We can like it or not, people have a choice. Some customers told me it’s a nice piece, but they don’t like the engraving. Others say they love it. Well, it’s an anniversary piece. That’s why it has to be decorated like this. I chose a specific engraver to do the job. He is the one guy working on all seven pieces because this would also ensure consistency.

I would rather have consistency and wait a little longer than be inconsistent just to have the products faster. Maybe people won’t notice it but for me, it’s important. That’s why we are a little bit late on the delivery. Of course, the engraver cannot be rushed, but I hope everything will be complete by the end of this year.

ref. 5275P-001 with chiming jump hour

On the overall, how satisfied are you with this watch?

The only regret I have is not being able to have an enamel dial. This was not possible because all the dials you see are functional, so below the dial, there are a lot of technical elements. The dial needs to be thinner than normal so there’s no way we can decorate it with enamel because once you put it in the oven, it is going to move. We cannot have that. But it doesn’t matter. I still think the dial is very nice, and well, there are two of them.

Apart from commemorating the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe, what was the philosophy going into the Grandmaster Chime?

My idea was to add new things. I think it’s important to have our DNA into it. That DNA can be in terms of design or movement techniques. We ended up with the alarm function that doesn’t just ring generically, but chimes the hours. This is quite easy to explain, but very hard to realise because you need to add a lot of different components. Second, something totally new is the date on demand.

That’s also really nice because like a minute repeater, it chimes the date. It’s totally new, and a very nice idea to have. It was funny

World Time ref. 5131 with enamel dial

because at some point, I had to consciously stop talking about ideas because otherwise, we would never stop adding new functions.

20 complications and 1,366 components sounds like a whole lot.

I think the result is quite impressive because I’m always amazed to see all those parts work together. This is so difficult to do, but when you have the technology and experience, and the right people, everything is possible. You have to believe in what you’re doing.

You have to follow a line. And I think that’s really what makes Patek Philippe strong. We have a very clean and clear strategy. We know what we are willing to do, so it was easy for me in one sense. To me, the most impressive thing is not only the technology we’ve been using, but also the fact that we are using both vintage and hightech machines. If you’re only using vintage technology, I don’t think you can really evolve, and you’ll be a bit dusty in the end. If you’re only using new technology, then you’ll make iWatches, which are interesting, but not something that can stay, not mechanical. This mix is something that always attracts me. It’s the same for my father and his before him. We always add both tradition and technology.

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INTERV IEWS

But where do you draw the line?

I think that’s difficult to say. It’s part of the education that I had growing up in this family. I know there’s a line I cannot cross. Where? I cannot say because there is no book. It’s all by instinct.

What was the most surprising thing about the entire process, across all seven years, of producing the Grandmaster Chime?

At the beginning of the project, there were maybe 200 people knowing about it. Every year, you could add another 100. At the end, there were 1,000 people involved, but the amazing thing was that nobody spoke about it to anyone outside of the project. People have tried to search the Internet for what we were doing for the 175th anniversary, but there was nothing at all. This was, for me, the most fantastic part. When you’re able to do this, especially these days with the Internet when nothing is secret, you know you have a good company and the people trust you. I’m still amazed by it today. I didn’t make anyone sign nondisclosure contracts, but everybody knew. Even today we talk about this. It was the best part of the project. An amazing effort. Our people believed in it and are willing to keep the surprise for the customers.

World Time Moon ref. 5575G-001

“I’m always amazed to see all those parts work together. This is so difficult to do but when you have the technology, the experience, and the right people, everything is possible. You have to believe in what you’re doing. You have to follow a line. And I think that’s really what makes Patek Philippe strong”

Calibre 240 HU LU

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If confidentiality was not an issue, what were your main concerns about the collection’s launch?

It was a tough period for me because I had to work on three collections simultaneously. There was the 2014 collection, the anniversary collection, and I had to prepare for 2015. Since the beginning, I knew I would have to be very strong also in 2015, because everybody would be thinking that Patek Philippe did a great job for the anniversary collection, so the following year, we would be tired and present nothing new at BaselWorld.

Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524

Do you think the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time achieved that for you?

To be frank, this was a watch I did on the corner of the table, so to speak, when I had a little bit of time. I had some spare time, so I did it. (Laughs)

split-seconds Chronograph ref. 5370

So which novelty this year was the main highlight for you?

For me, it is the Ref. 5370. I was really surprised that people talked so much about the pilot’s watch. It was a product that we did because it was fun and a pilot’s watch is cool. I’m amazed. It’s crazy. Of course, people either like it or they do not. That’s why it’s fun with this watch. You see, it’s always important to surprise people. I can totally understand that some people don’t like it, but it was the same with the Aquanaut at the time, the same with the Nautilus, which was during my dad’s time. I think it’s our duty to surprise and do something new. I was also amazed when some people said that the pilot’s watch is not Patek Philipe. But how can they say that when I had created it? And I’m pretty sure I’m inside the DNA of Patek Philippe.

But you must agree that it is not exactly a Calatrava in the purest sense of the collection?

We put it in the Calatrava because I didn’t see anything bad in doing so. There really wasn’t any complicated strategy behind it. I didn’t want to launch a pilot’s watch line because it’s not a field I should go into. This was just one shot, just to show I am able to do something different. Maybe in the future, there will be different models, but even that I’m not so sure of. That’s why I didn’t want to set anything in stone. You know, I often have questions like these about Patek Philippe myself. Sometimes when I look at our archives, I ask, “Why did they choose things like this... or why did they do something like that? What was the logic behind?” My father would look at me and say, “But it’s not about logic.” Think simple, he always says. Don’t complicate things. So that’s how we do it.

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INTERV IEWS

Independent Strength The watchmaking industry has changed vastly over the past 50 years, but the Oris watch company remains true to its roots, thanks to the august leadership of its executive chairman, Ulrich Herzog Words celIne yap INTErVIEW by kelvIn tan

H

aving seen countless rises and falls in the watchmaking industry, not many things today can faze Oris executive chairman Ulrich Herzog. The jovial 72-year-old Swiss national withstood his fair share of crises, most famous of all, the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s. Trained as a banker, Herzog is familiar with the ways of the global economy. Curiously, he joined Oris at a time when mechanical watchmaking didn’t appear to have a future. The difference between Herzog and others who went through the Quartz Crisis was that he actually had a choice – to stay in the oil and gas industry or to be in watchmaking. He’s not a watchmaker; he could have chosen to market anything in the world. And he chose watches.

In 1982, he had the opportunity to invest in the company, and he did. As the new managing director of the new Oris SA, he pushed for stronger messages on mechanical watchmaking. He also established all the modern codes of Oris watches including the distinctive red winding rotor that can be seen through the open case backs of its self-winding watches. Today, Oris is known as the brand that is dedicated to purely mechanical Swiss watches. Apart from mechanical watchmaking, Herzog also embraces a number of lifestyle elements such as sports and culture. As a matter of fact, Oris was one of the earliest brands to establish a deep connection with the music scene, specifically jazz music.

Thanks to Herzog’s unique perspective, Oris never veers far from its core DNA, no matter what trends are rocking the industry. His leadership is one that’s focused, determined, and steadfastly loyal to Swiss traditions.

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oris 110 years Limited Edition with 10-day power reserve

What kind of watchmaking know-how helped Oris in the production of the in-house manufactured Calibre 110?

If you were to look into our archives, you will see that there are three main chapters: When tradition was born, the industrial revolution, and moving into the future. When tradition was born brings us back to the day Oris was founded. This was in 1904. One of my favourite anecdotes about Oris is how, on the day the company was established, our founders discovered a postcard or small painting that seems to predict, that 25 years on, Oris would come to own no fewer than seven factories around Switzerland as well as a head office in Hölstein. Indeed, we were employing around 500 people by 1929. We also have archival images of the extent of industrialisation we had in those days. You might know that our people came from different parts of Switzerland like La Chaux-de-Fonds, Le Locle, and the Jura…

Many used to make watches for kings and noblemen, and then they made watches for real people. Already in the 1930s, we had an eight-day power reserve clock. In

The oris workshop in Hölstein, switzerland

1925, a historical advertisement showed that we made one watch every three seconds. At that time, an Oris watch costs around CHF20, but of course, you know that the Swiss franc was different in value then. This was also the time of Henry Ford, so industrialisation was the buzzword.

What kind of company was Oris in those days?

Between 1950 and 1982, we had acquired new manufacturing processes and improved on the quality of our products. We even designed the machines ourselves. We got a new building and invested heavily in our factories. Until the Quartz Crisis came, of course.

Before I joined, which was in 1978, there were 90,000 people in the industry. After the crisis, however, what was left was more like 30,000 people.

A lot of companies disappeared and a lot of companies moved on to create other kinds of watches. Companies like the SSIH became more or less bankrupt. In 1982, however, our management saw the opportunity to continue with the brand, and three years on, we had the strategy to manufacture only mechanical watches.

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How did such a strategy help Oris overcome the challenges of the Quartz Crisis?

We were the first company to focus only on producing mechanical watches. We invented our base movements and also created modules. We had our world time movement, which had special functions with complications. We had innovations like the rotation safety system for our dive watches, and we also had the pointer moon. We were continuously innovating new products. As we look back to the day we began up until 1982, we had already developed about 279 in-house movements. Last year, we decided to bring back this chapter, and this was the rationale behind Calibre 110, which has 10 days of power reserve and a non-linear indication.

What do you think of the recent destabilisation of the Swiss franc?

Like the others, it was quite a surprise for us. We have to cope with it. We have to find the ways and solutions to get costs under control.

It will be challenging but, on the other side, we also see that the U.S. dollar has gone up quite strongly. The U.S. dollar is as important as the Swiss franc especially in the Far East where it is linked to currencies like the Hong Kong dollar. China is less affected, but the Euro is deeply affected. We continue our path. By making real watches for real people, we have a good opportunity while the others are struggling. In situations such as the GST implementation in Malaysia, we cannot control these things, but that is the challenge.

However, this is not the first time we are going through this.

How did the market respond to this product?

At the expense of turning a quick profit, we sold the watch at a very attractive price considering it has an in-house movement. Then later, we found that there are ways to lower the cost a bit more.

Today, we have 20 factories between Geneva and HĂślstein with very sophisticated micro-mechanical machinery specialising in microcomponentry. Consequently, our costs have come down, and now we can sell this watch at more or less the same price, but this time we can turn a profit.

What kind of implications would this incident have on the way watches are being sold and bought across the world?

We are a brand that is worldwide and operating in all the key markets of the world. We are, of course, very strong in China; even in difficult times we are growing. This means that we are doing the right thing there. In Switzerland, our market has grown over 20 per cent last year, which shows we have done a very good job for our local market, for local buyers and for the tourists. In Malaysia, times have been tough with these plane incidences and I do not know if the

oris’s manufacturing line before the Quartz Crisis

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With an improved movement, oris Calibre 111 is just like its predecessor, Calibre 110, but not limited in production

Chinese tourist is slowly coming back or not. Korea is a very strong market for us. In any country, we always try to build up the local market first, and then the tourist market.

What is the strategy behind Oris’s connection with music?

We have a very clear strategy on this; we do not move back and forth with it. We follow our own way. In our product lines, we always have four worlds: Culture, diving, motorsport, and aviation. Within each of those four worlds, we have partners and ambassadors. In our world of culture, we have the latest figure, Thelonious Monk. He was one of the geniuses in jazz and he was active from the 1940s to the 1960s.

You can say he is definitely our new guy in jazz. In fact, since 1996, we started to work with jazz musicians. In the acting business, we are now cooperating with Nicholas Tse. In the field of motor sports, we have been with the Williams team since 2003. In that field, we actually started in 1970 with the Chronoris. And then in 2001, we launched the first TT1 motorsport watch. With our collaboration with Williams in 2003, we were one of the first brands to work with Formula One and remain one of the longest partners.

Many other brands have also jumped onto the motorsport bandwagon today. Do you see a similar situation happening in terms of connections with the music scene?

The first guys who start something are always the leaders. This is the good thing. We were the first to start with mechanical movements.

We are the first to start with collaborations with jazz musicians – nobody else thought of it. We are well established now and we bring out our own collections, so I am not scared of what the others do because I know we have fantastic partnerships. There are a couple of brands who are also doing jazz right now, but we have so many top jazz stars like Louis Amstrong, Lionel Hampton, Duke Ellington, Frank Sinatra, Bob Dylan, and others. How can you beat this?

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Rebels With A CAuse

A trio of independent brands arrive on our shores to celebrate watchmaking on a different tack

D

e Bethune, MB&F, and URWERK convened in Malaysia with watch connoisseurs and VIP guests of The Hour Glass to share their unique horological ideas and visions. The private dinner event was hosted at at Tanzini Restaurant, G Tower Hotel, Kuala Lumpur. Key representatives from the brands, Alessandro Zanetta of De Bethune, Maximillian B端sser of MB&F, and Felix Baumgartner of URWERK met with each and every guest, which was certainly a delightful experience for any watch aficionado with a keen interest in contemporary horology. General manager of The Hour Glass Malaysia, Teh Soon Kheng, group managing director, Dr. Kenny Chan, and co-group managing director, Michael Tay, joined in the revelry, where the highlight of the evening was a Q&A session between the brands and the guests moderated by Tay.

Dato and Datin Jeffery Raymond, Teh Soon Kheng and Felix Baumgartner

Alessandro Zanetta, Dato Jaron Wong and Dr. Kenny Chan

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Maximilian B端sser, Alessandro Zanetta and Felix Baumgartner

Ng Kim Keong, Florence Yap, Wendy Wee and Cindel Ng

Maximilian B端sser, Alessandro Zanetta, Teh Soon Kheng, Kelvin Tan, Dr. Kenny Chan and Felix Baumgartner

Ev Ents

it’s the bom Malaysia welcomes the arrival of Bomberg Watches

B

omberg Watches celebrated its arrival in Malaysia with a launch party at Providence Kuala Lumpur. At the unveiling of the BOLT68 collection, CEO Giancarlo Mantuano said, “We made the exciting decision to expand to Malaysia as we are aware that watch lovers here are trendsetters who appreciate the details that makes a great timepiece. We have decided to launch Bomberg with its BOLT-68 collection because we feel it represents the essence of our brand – reinterpreting the traditional wristwatch.” BOLT-68 highlights the strong and functional strength of watch design. At this thrilling event co-hosted with retail partner, Watatime Malaysia, many local celebrities and fashionistas including Peter Davis, Joe Flizzow, Roen Nagapan, Carey Ng, and Sarah Lian were spotted wearing proud and sporty models from the BOLT-68 collection.

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Ev Ents

thRee’s CompAny

Sincere Fine Watches united three watchmaking greats at its recent Master Craftsmen and Bespoke Art event

Guests admiring the Bovet Virtuoso III Tourbillon

S

incere Fine Watches celebrated the pinnacle of watchmaking artistry with a unique event, The Master Craftsmen and Bespoke Art, which is a platform honouring great masters in the world of haute horlogerie. Sincere begins with three brands known for one-of-a-kind creations that push the boundaries of traditional high watchmaking and bespoke craftsmanship.

They are Greubel Forsey, with “Science and Art”, Christophe Claret, with “The Art of Chime”, and Bovet, with “The Beauty of Enamel”. Esteemed guests of the luxury watch retailer attended the intimate dinner held at the newly refurbished Senja at the Saujana Golf and Country Club. Guests were treated to a personal presentation from each of the three great masters and were enthralled to witness Bovet’s engraver demonstrating the art of miniature painting.

Stephen Forsey and Kevin Loo

Sylvain Van Muylders, Juliana Tan, Kurt Hefti

Wolfgang Sickenberg, Michelle Mok and Ling Hua Keong

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Ambassador Dr. Rolf Lenz and Wolfgang Sickenberg

Stephen Forsey, Ambassador Dr. Rolf Lenz, Kurt Hefti, and Christophe Claret

THE HAUTE HORLOGERIE EXHIBITION IN ASIA 30 SEPTEMBER - 3 OCTOBER 2015 HKCEC - Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre

Boutiques

Where to browse, buy, service and repair your watches

A

AUDEMARS PIGUET

UG29, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL

ATG WATCH

Lot G25, Fahrenheit88, KL

B

BEDAT & CO

UG31, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL

BELL & ROSS

Lot 3.46.00, Level 3, Pavilion, KL

BREQUET

LL 1, Lobby Level, JW Marriot Hotel, KL

BULGARI

2.23.00 & 3.25.00, Level 2 & 3 Pavilion, KL G20, Ground Floor, Suria KLCC, KL

C

CARTIER

Lot C-G05, Ground Floor, New Wing Tower, Suria KLCC, KL

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CERRUTI

H

K

CORTINA WATCH

G-49, Ground Floor, Tropicana City Mall, PJ

UG1, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL

122 & 123, 1st Floor, Suria KLCC, KL

UG30C, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL

HERMES

L

G-231, Ground Floor, 1 Borneo Hypermall, Kota Kinabalu

HOUR PASSION

G1, Ground Floor, Lot 10 Shopping Centre, KL

Lot 2.01.04, Level 2, Pavilion, KL

G70, Ground Floor, Jusco Bukit Tinggi, Klang, Selangor

170-G-33/33A, Ground Floor, Plaza Gurney, Penang

HOUR PASSION QUEENSBAY

G19, 23, 29, 30 & 37, Indulge Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL

LG 1.112, Lower Ground One, Sunway Pyramid, PJ

Rolex Starhill Gallery, UG34, Adorn Floor, KL

G9, Ground Floor, Lot 10 Shopping Centre, KL

F

Lot 170-01-12, Plaza Gurney, Penang

P2.04.00, Level 2, Pavilion, KL

Lot F-51, 1st Floor, Aeon Tebrau City, Taman Desa Tebrau, Johor Bahru

G

Lot G-20, Ground Floor, Mahkota Parade, Melaka

G37-38, Ground Floor, Center Court, Suria KLCC, KL

G1.117 & G1.118, Ground Floor, Sunway Pyramid, PJ

LG60, Lower Ground Floor, Alamanda Shopping Centre, Putrajaya

P2.16.00, Level 2, Pavilion, KL

Lot 173, 1st Floor, The Curve Shopping Mall, PJ

CHANEL

G01, IOI Mall, Puchong, Selangor

Lot C-G06-G07, Ground Floor, New Wing Tower, Suria KLCC, KL

CHOPARD

2.24.00 & 3.26.00, Level 2 & 3, Pavilion, KL G33, Indulge Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL G07, Ground Floor, Suria KLCC, KL

CITY CHAIN

F-126 & 127, 1st Floor, 1 Utama Shoping Centre (Old Wing), PJ C09-C10, Concourse Level, Suria KLCC, KL F-92, 1st Floor Zone, Mid Valley Megamall, KL 01-35, First Floor, Berjaya Times Square, KL

Lot G27, Ground Floor, Suria Sabah Shopping Mall, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah

G03/04/39, Ground Floor, Fahrenheit 88, KL

1.20.00, Level 1, Pavilion, KL F26, First Floor, Jusco Bukit Tinggi, Klang, Selangor

Lot G-59, Ground Floor, The Spring, Jalan Simpang Tiga, Kuching, Sarawak

FENDI TIMEPIECES

GUCCI

2.21.00 & 3.23.00, Level 2 & 3, Pavilion, KL

HANG THAI WATCH SDN BHD

GF-98, Queensbay Mall, Bayan Lepas, Penang

HUBLOT

UG15(B), Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL

i

IWC

3.40.00, Level 3, Pavilion, KL

J

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

G36, Indulge Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL

KHRONOS – UNIQUE HORLOGERIE

LONGINES

LOUIS VUITTON

G26A&B & G27, Ground Floor, Suria KLCC, KL

M

MAURICE LACROIX

UG27, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL

MONTBLANC

2.18.00 & 3.20.00, Level 2 & 3, Pavilion, KL G29, Ground Floor, Suria KLCC, KL

o

s

V

GK105, Ground Floor, 1 Utama Shopping Centre (Old Wing), PJ

Lot LG1.112, Lower Ground One, Sunway Pyramid, PJ

2.53.00, Level 2, Pavilion, KL

SINCERE FINE WATCHES

W

ORIS

OMEGA

SEIKO

G15A & 16, Indulge Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL

UG19, 24, 34, & 34A, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL

2.38.00, Level 2, Pavilion, KL

G34, Ground Floor, Suria KLCC, KL

Lot 170-G-17/18, Ground Floor, Plaza Gurney, Penang

2.01.07, Level 2, Pavilion, KL

SWISS WATCH GALLERY

P

2.46.01, Level 2, Pavilion, KL

G41 & G42, Ground Floor, Suria KLCC, KL

TAG HEUER

PATEK PHILIPPE BY CORTINA

G39/G03-04, Ground Floor, Fahrenheit 88, KL

PIAGET

G38, Ground Floor, Suria KLCC, KL

R

RADO

P2.05.00, Level 2, Pavilion, KL

RAYMOND WEIL

t

3.44.00 & 3.45.00, Level 3, Pavilion, KL Lot 124, First Floor, Suria KLCC, KL 170-G-28, Plaza Gurney, Penang GF97, Queensbay Mall, Penang G238, Ground Floor, The Gardens, Mid Valley City, KL

THE HOUR GLASS

Lot 105A, 1st Floor, Suria KLCC, KL

2.41.00, Level 2, Pavilion, KL

RED ARMY WATCHES

G20 & G21, Ground Floor, Lot 10 Shopping Centre, KL

P4.04.00, Level 4, Pavilion, KL

G226 & G227, Ground Floor, The Gardens, Mid Valley City, KL

G136, Ground Floor, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, PJ

L1-07, Level 1, Tropicana City Mall, PJ

RICHARD MILLE

TISSOT

G-11, Ground Floor, Fahrenheit 88, KL

UG15A, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL

G009, Ground Floor, Mid Valley Megamall, KL

ROLEX

Lot 209, Second Floor, Suria KLCC, KL

3.37.00, Level 3, Pavilion, KL 130, Level 1, Suria KLCC, KL

u

ULYSSE NARDIN & REUGE

VERTU

WATATIME

LG144, Lower Ground Floor, Sg Wang Plaza, KL G-055, Ground Floor, Mid Valley Megamall, KL 2.61.00, Level 2, Pavilion, KL LG19, Lower Ground Floor, Subang Parade, PJ G107, Ground Floor, 1 Utama Shopping Centre (Old Wing), PJ G1.09, Ground Floor, Sunway Pyramid, PJ G52, Ground Floor, Mahkota Parade, Melaka G16, Ground Floor, Jaya Jusco, Kinta City Shopping Centre, Ipoh, Perak

WATCHSHOPPE

F303, First Floor, 1 Utama Shopping Centre (New Wing), PJ G-043A, Ground Floor, Mid Valley Megamall, KL G1.123, Ground Floor, Sunway Pyramid (New Wing), PJ 170-G-16, Ground Floor, Plaza Gurney, Penang

WATCH ZONE

Lower Ground Level, LG341A, 1 Utama Shopping Centre (New Wing), PJ

WORLD OF WATCHES 2 SDN BHD Unit 49B, Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar Baru, KL

GF16, Ground Floor, Bangsar Village II, Jalan Telawi, Bangsar, KL

UG22 & 25, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL

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seRViCe CentRes Alexander Shorokhoff Sevenfriday Schaumburgwatch Basilika Junkers Zeppelin Alessandro Baldieri Sturmanskie Denissov L1-07, First Floor, Tropicana City Mall, 3 Jalan SS20/27 Tel: 603-77100218

Appetime Armand Nicolet Bedat & Co. Blu Brook Brothers Fendi Timepieces Franc Vila Hautlence Muhle Glashutte Rebellion Timepieces Romain Jerome Speake-Marin Tw Steel Zeitwinkel Level 5, Annexe Block Lot 10 Shopping Centre, 50 Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL Tel: 603-2142 6328

Bovet Davidoff Glycine Maurice Lacroix Salvatore Ferragamo West End Ground Floor Menara Keck Seng, 203, Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL Tel: 603-2148 9678

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Katharine Hamnett Luminox Soleus Columbia Cosmopolitan 23-8, The Boulevard, Mid Valley City Lingkaran Syed Putra, KL Tel: 603-2938 3938

Bell & Ross Chronotech Guess Marc Ecko Nautica Victorinox Swiss Army 12th Floor, KH Tower No. 8 Lorong P Ramlee, KL Tel: 603-2056 6888

Blancpain Breguet Ck Watches Certina Flik Flak Hamilton Longines Mido Omega Pierre Balmain Rado Swatch Tissot Level 22, Wisma Goldhill 67 Jalan Raja Chulan, KL Tel: 603-2050 8888

Breitling Raymond Weil Suite 6.3, Level 6 Menara Weld No. 76 Jalan Raja Chulan, KL Tel: 603-2031 8566, 603-2031 6151

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Seiko Alba

Suite 2305-06, 23rd Floor Central Plaza, KL Tel: 603-2140 8303

CP27, Suite 2601-04, 26th Floor, Central Plaza 34 Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL Tel: 603-2141 5163

Cyma City Chain

Rolex Centre

G8, Jalan Puteri 7/13A Bandar Puteri, Puchong, Selangor Tel: 603-8068 6898

Menara Dion, #01-02 27, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL Tel: 603-2072 2709

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Quiz

Manufacture logos run the gamut from letters to objects. Can you match the logo to the brand?

1. Baume & Mercier 2. Blancpain

A

B

C

D

e

F

G

H

I

3. Breitling 4. Hermès 5. Jaquet Droz 6. Roger Dubuis 7. Rolex 8. Ulysse Nardin 9. Vacheron Constantin

Answers: 1F; 2A; 3I; 4E; 5B; 6D; 7H; 8C; 9G 256