Ayw4wine spectator 31 july 2015

CONTENTS

July 31, 2015 Vol. 40, No. 5

“The variables we have to choose from are almost endless. From orientation to altitude to microclimate, they all have a tremendous influence on how the grapes grow. But it’s not Burgundy. We have to turn the rock into soil.”—DAVID GUIMARAENS, COVER STORY

47 Wining and dining in Lisbon

COVER STORY

Features

28 Portugal’s Cutting Edge Change is sweeping across this historic winemaking nation, with renowned quintas and a new generation of vintners competing and collaborating across a dizzying array of terroirs, varieties and viticultural techniques.

With refined red table wines and focused whites from indigenous grapes taking a place on the world stage, this diverse and Li>ÕÌ vÕ Ê > `Ê vviÀÃÊ ÕV Ê ÀiÊÌ > Ê* ÀÌÊUÊKim Marcus

TA S T I N G R E P O R T S

42

Vital Vinho Known for simple, fizzy whites, the Vinho

Verde region is making strides with the Alvarinho grape 44

Port Primer Portugal’s best-known wine achieved

classic quality in 2011, and options abound in the category 45

Recommended Wines Highly rated recent releases

from Portugal, encompassing reds, whites, Port and Madeira

55

Another Side of Chardonnay Whites from the Golden

State exhibit verve and ageability in the excellent 2013 vintage UÊJames Laube 61

Brunello Beauties The 2010 vintage is one of the best in

`iV>`iÃÊv ÀÊ/ÕÃV> Þ½ÃÊÜ À ` V >ÃÃÊÀi`ÊUÊBruce Sanderson T R AV E L

47

Savoring Lisbon After decades of political and economic

hardship, Portugal’s capital is finding its culinary voice, with vÀiÃ Ê }Ài` i ÌÃÊ> `ÊiÝVi«Ì > ÊÜ iÃÊUÊRobert Camuto E N T E R TA I N I N G

Tomales Bay Bounty Shellfish dishes from Hog Island Oyster Co. deliver fresh summertime flavors for laid-back ÕÌ` ÀÊ}>Ì iÀ }ÃÊUÊAaron Romano

66

LEFT: JAMES RAJOTTE; RIGHT: SIVAN ASKAYO

28 Portuguese winemakers Sandra Tavares da Silva and Susana Esteban

15 Wine Spectator’s Grand Tour

66 Summer seafood feast

55 California Chardonnay

61 2010 Brunello di Montalcino

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: STEPHEN DEVRIES; CAMILLA SJODIN; ALANNA HALE

Grapevine

Departments

13

News Bordeaux price drops leave U.S. market cold

7

This Issue Marvin R. Shanken

14

The Environment Green winemaking guru Phil Cotturi

10

Feedback

15

Events Grand Tour visits Chicago, Las Vegas and Dallas

25

James Laube Measuring wine greatness

16

Travel San Francisco dining and a Thomas Keller cruise

26

Matt Kramer Party ploys

19

SpiritsÊ * ½ÃÊ Õ«ÊUÊJack Bettridge

108 FAQ Deciphering a wine label

22 Savvy Shopper Portuguese table wines, Chardonnay Ãi iVÌ Ã]ÊÀi`ÃÊvÀ Ê, >ÊUÊBruce Sanderson

On the cover: A historic barco rabelo on the Douro River in Porto; photograph by Sebastien Cote

The Buying Guide 77

Buying Guide Contents

79

Spectator Selections

80

About the Buying Guide

82

New Wines From Around the World

TO P - S CO R I N G W I N E S T H I S I S S U E

96 Reviews of wines from California

Marc Morey BâtardMontrachet 2012 97 POINTS, $360

Peter Michael Chardonnay Knights Valley Point Rouge 2012 97 POINTS, $185

Visit www.winespectator.com/073115 to find links to all of the following resources.

Free resources for all of our WineSpectator.com readers: 2015 VIDEO CONTEST Creative with a video camera?

Submit your shorts to Wine Spectator’s annual Video Contest and you could win great prizes. Our editors will select the finalists and post them on WineSpectator.com, where viewers can vote for the winning video. The deadline to enter is Sept. 7. Check out the rules and past years’ finalists online.

JULY FOURTH ENTERTAINING Host a patriotic party with recipes from our guest chef, plus great-value American wines to match.

MOBILE-FRIENDLY WINE SPECTATOR VIDEO You can get all our great wine tips, winemaker interviews and tastings on your desktop, laptop, tablet or phone. Tune in each week for a new video.

Don’t miss these companions to the stories in this issue: đƫ +. ! 14ƫ . %0%+*Čƫ +1.+ƫ 05(!č After the sale of his family’s Château Cos-d’Estournel, Bruno Prats joined forces in Portugal with the Symington family, famous for Port. Prats discusses starting over in a new region and pours the Prats & Symington Chryseia 2011, Wine Spectator’s No. 3 wine of 2014. đƫ .! 0ƫ $ . +** 5ƫ .+)ƫ !.*!0ƫ +1*0.5č John Kongsgaard met his wife in chemistry lab at the University of California, Davis, started a winery, planted Chardonnay in Napa Valley and cracked Wine Spectator’s Top 10. Hear the winemaker’s entertaining story of his 40 years in Napa.

Napa Valley’s John Kongsgaard, online

4 (1/%2!ƫ%*"+.) 0%+*ƫ"+.ƫ)!) !./ƫ+"ƫ WineSpectator.com: TUSCANY IN-DEPTH Take this three-class online Wine Spectator School seminar to understand both the classic-style and the newwave wines of top Tuscan producers in hot regions such as Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Bolgheri. All 10 Wine Spectator School courses are included free with a WineSpectator.com membership and make great gifts for the budding wine lovers in your life.

PERSONAL WINE LIST AND PERSONAL RATINGS Use our Personal Wine List tools to track your wine collection, monitor the value of your cellar and record tasting notes. Plus, you can personally rate the wines you’ve tasted, so it’s easy to remember your favorites. All rated wines are automatically copied to a convenient My Wine Ratings list for future reference.

BELOW: CODY PICKENS

LETTER FROM EUROPE Contributing editor Robert Camuto blogs from his trips through France, Italy and more, sharing the fascinating and inspiring stories of the winemakers, grapegrowers, chefs and other personalities who shape wine culture. Read his post on Lisbon travel, and follow along at www.winespectator.com/camuto.

THIS ISSUE

I

Discover Portugal

t’s wonderful and amazing when a wine region explodes with new energy, investment and delicious wines, even more so when it’s a region that had suffered the misfortune of falling out of favor. That is the exciting story being written now in Portugal.

Every serious wine lover knows about Port, the fortified wine that has been a staple of English cellars for centuries. And many Americans have fond memories of Mateus, the quaffable rosé that was such a hit during the 1970s. But changes in taste and dining habits hit both categories hard—consumer interest lagged, and sales declined.

Portuguese producers did not give up. In the 1990s, vintners in the Douro region, long famous for its Port production, began experimenting with dry table wines, made from the same grapes and vineyards as Port, but with entirely new characters.

They made rapid progress. In our 2014 Top 100, dry Portuguese reds took the No. 3 and No. 4 spots for their terrific quality and great value.

They didn’t give up on Port, either. In that same Top 100, Vintage Ports from the classic 2011 vintage ranked at No. 13 and, in the case of the 99-point Dow, as the Wine of the Year.

Managing editor Kim Marcus is our lead taster for the wines of Portugal. He recently spent two weeks in the country, exploring the vineyards, tasting the wines and talking with winemakers.

He believes that the best is yet to come, not only in the Douro but throughout this diverse and welcoming land. We hope his cover story will encourage you to sample widely and discover Portugal for yourself.

And if you are able, we encourage you to spend time in Lisbon, home to an emerging dining scene that artfully blends traditional and modern flavors. Turn to page 47 and let contributing editor Robert Camuto be your guide.

DAVID YELLEN

T

wo other wine regions also earn the spotlight this issue.

Chardonnay remains Americans’ favorite white wine, and senior editor James Laube reports that fans will find a lot to like in California’s 2013 vintage. The year delivered sleek wines whose fresh acidity and impressive concentration bode well for aging, and there are plenty of values to enjoy. And don’t overlook any still-available 2012s; it too was a strong vintage. Laube’s analysis, based on reviews of almost 500 Chardonnays, will point you to the best.

Senior editor Bruce Sanderson is even more impressed with the 2010 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino, which he rates at a classic 98 points, based on his reviews of nearly 100 wines.

Every one of these, evaluated in blind tastings, earned a score of 90 points or higher (outstanding on our 100-point scale). If you’re a fan of these powerful yet elegant Sangiovese-based reds, you can buy with confidence.

There were fine wines from all these regions, plus many more, on offer at our Grand Tour tasting this spring, which brought 228 wines from around the world to venues in Chicago, Dallas and Las Vegas. If you attended, we hope you found a lot to like; if you missed it, check out our report on page 15. We hope to see you next year, in New York, Las Vegas or Washington, D.C.

Marvin R. Shanken Editor and Publisher

Thomas Matthews Executive Editor

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FEEDBACK Applause for Coppola I drank my first Rubicon wine in 2006; it was a 2003 Cask Cabernet. Immediately fell in love with it. Did some research and started following the Coppola story from there. I have vertical collections of Casks and Rubicons from 2003 to present, and both age very well, especially the Rubicon. I was really excited and pleased with your article on Coppola (cover, June 15), as I always deal with uninformed people who when they see a bottle of Inglenook Cabernet in my cellar wonder why it’s not in a jug or box, or why I would have any in the cellar at all.

I hope [Coppola] is able to be successful in bringing back the great name, and I truly respect the affection and commitment he has to its

grand history.

Robert Farrow Keller, Texas

Knew Him When Harvey Steiman’s profile of Ken Wright (cover, May 31) was outstanding. About 30 years ago, my wife and I had dinner in a small seafood restaurant in McMinnville, Ore. Our waiter was a young, friendly and enthusiastic fellow who was very knowledgeable about wine as he helped us select a bottle. During the evening he told us about bringing barrels of California wine to Oregon and about his difficulties getting his Panther Creek Winery established. Since that time I have watched with a rather proprietary interest as Wright has become one of the elite producers of Pinot Noir in the country; I love the wines,

SAUVIGNON RISING Readers react to MaryAnn Worobiec’s article praising the everincreasing quality of Sauvignon Blanc from both New Zealand

too. Kudos goes to Steiman and Wright for their years of dedicated work and their deserved success.

Stan Byars King City, Ore.

Terroir Talk

Big Fun in Small AVAs

The debate on the meaning of terroir may continue for a long time, but I cannot say that I know of anyone in the Willamette Valley of Oregon who would suggest that terroir does not include the full interaction of man, vine and nature, as Mr. Iatridis does in his interview in the June 15 issue (GrapeVine, “A Zeal for Xinomavro”). Even now, as we become increasingly aware of the impact that microorganisms have on wine, the interaction between man and nature becomes more important in defining terroir.

Nevertheless, I would love to

I really enjoyed your article “Spring Fling in the Finger Lakes” (May 31). I for one like to read about smaller wine-producing areas in the United States. We have been to the Finger Lakes several times and love it. Another area you should consider writing about is northwest Michigan. We have two American Viticulture Areas in the region: Old Mission Peninsula and Leelanau Peninsula—gorgeous scenery, great restaurants and excellent wine, especially Riesling.

Bill MacDonald Traverse City, Mich.

10 years have made them a bit less attractive.

Peter Vangsness East Longmeadow, Mass.

their verve. The 2013 Greywacke is an excellent wine, but it pales to the 2011.

Russell Quong Sunnyvale, Calif.

and California (“Sauvignon Blanc on the Brain,” online, April 2).

Thank you for shining a spotlight on one of the most misunderstood and perhaps unappreciated grapes in the marketplace. I am a Sauvignon Blanc devotee and believe the variety is capable of expressing itself beautifully in many growing conditions. I think it is odd that the wine doesn’t command a higher price point. There seems to be a glass ceiling at $30, which is obviously great for the consumer but makes it tough for growers and wineries to make the math pencil out. I am positive you would 10 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

see the quality and diversity of Sauvignon Blanc increase if vintners knew they could get the same return on planting that variety as opposed to Cabernet or Chardonnay.

Brian Brown Templeton, Calif.

I have long been a big fan of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé wines from the Loire Valley (made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape). The minerality and balance is remarkable in the better ones, and they are very food-friendly. Only the price increases of the past

taste some of Mr. Iatridis’ Xinomavro!

David Beck Crawford Beck Vineyard Amity, Ore.

I’m a big fan of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, with wines such as Kim Crawford, Brancott, Matua and Nobilio leading the way seven years ago. The wineries with the best quality-to-price ratio have changed; some of the aforementioned early leaders have increased production as quality and scores dropped.

But then came the Greywacke 2011, my favorite Sauvignon Blanc of all time.

Your tasting notes hit on the complexity, with Earl Grey tea and the striking gooseberry. My remaining 2011 bottles have lost some of

CORRECTIONS In “Defining the Northern Willamette Valley” (May 31, page 55), the photograph correctly depicts Oregon’s Hood River Valley.

In “Napa Valley: Choose Your Own Adventure” (June 15), Fish Story and Étoile, two restaurants appearing on the Award-Winning Restaurants list appended to the story, have closed.

Questions and Comments If you have a comment on a story or a question about wine, we would like to hear from you. Please keep your letters brief and be sure to include your name, address and telephone number (not for publication). We reserve the right to edit letters for clarity. Write to us at Letters, Wine Spectator, 825 Eighth Ave., 33rd Floor, New York, NY 10019; send a fax to (212) 684-5424; or e-mail us at letters@winespectator.com.

GRAPEVINE WINE

FOOD

PEOPLE

COLLECTING

Bordeaux Prices Drop, Americans Yawn

DEEPIX STUDIO

T

he Bordelais hoped this would be the en primeur campaign to woo back Americans. The potential quality of the vintage on sale, 2014, is the best in four years. And even though most château owners raised prices this year, U.S. stores are offering the 2014s for less than other recent vintages, thanks to a strong dollar.

But as futures hit the market over several weeks in May, leading retailers reported lukewarm sales. “There is far more interest in 2014 than in ’11, ’12 and ’13 put together, but overall it is a very quiet campaign,” said Ralph Sands, senior wine specialist at California-based K&L Wine Merchants.

Until recently, futures offered wine drinkers the best option for getting their hands on allocations of top Bordeauxs at decent Château Mouton-Rothschild prices. Whether buyers planned to drink the wine or sell it, they could pay a lower price 2014 BORDEAUX FUTURES for the futures than they would for the wines Bordeaux has also failed to ignite 2014 initial futures Change from at retail. Passing on the futures might make interest in the next generation of CHÂTEAU Score retail price 2013 price it difficult to secure the wine later. wine drinkers. “Bordeaux needs to Haut-Brion 95–98 $315 -11% Those days are gone. “Starting with 2010, reboot and seriously upgrade the litMouton-Rothschild 95–98 $326 -8% you can still buy almost every famous wine tle marketing that they do here in Lafite Rothschild 94–97 $391 -17% five years later,” Sands said. “There are large America to attract new young buyers Margaux 94–97 $319 -9% stocks in Bordeaux unsold.” before it’s too late,” Sands said.

Pavie 94–97 $238 -11% Barbara Hermann, wine buyer for Illinois “We’re in the heart of Silicon Valley, Figeac 93–96 $83 +4% chain Binny’s Beverage Depot, agrees that we have a lot of young wealthy peo93–96 $81 -5% Lynch Bages the U.S. market is flush with moderately ple, and no one is knocking on the Palmer 93–96 $210 -14% aged Bordeaux, ready to drink tonight. door for these wines. It’s a big wine Smith-Haut-Lafitte 93–96 $63 -3% “There is a lot of wine out in the market world now with hundreds of choices.”

92–95 $61 -15% Léoville Barton from just about every château,” she said.

So what are retailers expecting to “We have a lot of customers that love to sell? “I think Lynch Bages got it drink Bordeaux, don’t buy futures and don’t have a cellar.” right,” Noye said. “It’s priced under $100—that’s very attractive for peoEven first-growths are not immune. A barrel sample of Château Haut- ple.” Other strong sellers include Léoville Barton, Smith-Haut-Lafitte Brion’s 2014 received a score of 95 to 98 points from Wine Spectator, and Figeac, which raised prices but is also offering improved quality. and the futures are selling for about $315 in the United States. Yet while For now, the greatest opportunities seem to lie in châteaus that trathe price is lower than that of every bottled vintage of Haut-Brion on ditionally haven’t sold many futures. “There are some petit châteaus the market, retailers report little interest. that aren’t really en primeur wines that we’ve tasted and loved and are The trend is leading many stores to abandon the futures market to a offering to our customers, like Capbern-Gasqueton at $17.99,” Sands handful of specialists. Some of these outlets sell futures only as a service said. “People are ordering cases of it.” to regular clients, and buy only what they know they can sell. “Our goal —Suzanne Mustacich is to sell 80 percent en primeur,” said Jeremy Noye, CEO of New York’s W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M Morrell Wine. “But in general we don’t want to have young Bordeaux Keep up with breaking news as well as the people, places and happenings that wine lovers are talking about at www.winespectator.com/newsandfeatures. on the shelf. We buy moderately aged wines to sell on the shelf.”

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T H E

E N V I R O N M E N T

The Guru of Green

IN BRIEF

G

14 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

Paul Hobbs

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Cabernet, Chardonnay and rosé tisanes

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TOP RIGHT: CODY PICKENS; BOTTOM RIGHT: COURTESY OF THE REPUBLIC OF TEA

rowing up in San Francisco in the tion), owl boxes and raptor roosts (to keep out 1960s, Phil Coturri read Jack Kerouac, pests) are standard in his efforts to keep vinelistened to the Grateful Dead, smoked yards healthy.

Coturri also offers biodynamic farming as an a little weed and, like many in his generation, ran away from the city for a life in the country. option for clients who want it. The philosophi“To live off the land, isn’t that a hippie’s cal approach is comparable to that of organic dream?” Coturri says. “That’s how I got in- farming but looks at a vineyard as an ecosystem and incorporates elements such as astrological volved growing grapes.”

Now 62, Coturri certainly looks the part of influences, lunar cycles and homeopathic treatthe aging hippie, with his laid-back fashion ments made by burying dung-packed cow horns sense, ponytail and scraggly beard. But he’s any- in the ground.

Coturri doesn’t thing but a slacker. Inparticularly believe stead, he’s become the in the spirituality go-to vineyard manof grapegrowing. “I ager for organic and was raised Italian biodynamic farming in Catholic,” he says.

Napa and Sonoma.

“I don’t need anHis client list inother religion.” cludes winemakers Organic, at least Andy Erickson, Morin Coturri’s case, is gan Twain-Peterson, also high-tech.

Bob Levy at Harlan Vineyard teams Estate, Richard Arrocarry tablet comwood and Araujo Esputers connected tate since it came to soil sensors and under the ownership other vineyard deof Château Latour’s vices, helping Pinault family. monitor the vines.

Coturri has been deCoturri works with voted to organic farma dual irrigation ing for most of his life. system that allows At 14, he helped his him to water an enbrother Tony and their tire vineyard or just dad plant a 2-acre Phil Coturri in a client’s Oakville vineyard tiny sections at a vineyard at the family’s weekend home in Glen Ellen, Calif. His in- time. “I’m using about 50 percent of the water terest in organic farming grew, and by 1979 I used 10 years ago,” he says.

Tony, Phil’s brother, has long made wine unCoturri had started Enterprise Vineyards, which der the Coturri label, but now Phil and his son today farms 700 acres and has 160 employees.

“I was amazed at how intuitive he was about Sam have started their own label, Winery Sixland use and vine positioning and drainage,” teen 600. Phil was also instrumental in the fedsays Robert Kamen, owner of Kamen Wines eral government’s 2013 approval of the Moon and the writer behind movie franchises such Mountain District appellation, home to Kaas Taken and The Transporter. An old friend, men’s vineyards and one of his own, as well as Coturri planted Kamen’s Sonoma vineyard in the historic Monte Rosso Vineyard.

The appellation lies in the crater of a dor1983. “He had a vision for this vineyard.”

Although Coturri might not dress the part mant volcano, located above and to the east of of a perfectionist, he is meticulous about de- Sonoma Valley. It’s a rocky terrain, with shaltails in the vineyard. And that fastidiousness low soils and only about 1,500 acres of vines doesn’t come cheap. Just ask Kamen, who says planted. “I farm 400 of those,” Coturri says.

Coturri credits much of his success to having wryly, “Every time I ask Phil why we’re doing something in the vineyard, he says, ‘I got a been in the right place at the right time. “What we did in the back-to-the-earth movement was kid in college.’ ” Coturri avoids synthetic pesticides and her- not in the mainstream at all,” he says. “But bicides, and doesn’t use fertilizers, even or- those techniques have become part of the ganic ones, preferring soil-nourishing cover mainstream.” Not that Coturri ever will.

—Tim Fish crops like bell beans. Beehives (for pollina-

E V E N T S

2015 Grand Tour Sweeps Three Cities

Jose Muguiro of Marques de Riscal

Susana Balbo of Dominio del Plata

Guests Joe Struck, Michelle Tenazas and Chris Abelarde

Giacomo Neri (left), of Casanova di Neri

Guests enjoy a taste of the 2007 Château Haut-Brion.

BY THOMAS MATTHEWS

CAMILLA SJODIN

G

ood wine can hold its own against Floyd Mayweather Jr. and Roger Goodell. Wine Spectator’s Grand Tour made three stops in 2015: Chicago on April 30, Las Vegas on May 2 and Dallas on May 8. The event faced some stiff competition on the first two nights: The first round of the NFL draft was being held in Chicago, and Las Vegas hosted the hotly anticipated fight between Floyd Mayweather Jr. and Manny Pacquiao. For enophiles, though, the choice between sports and wine was easy.

At the Mirage in Las Vegas, rivers of people flooded through the casino, then divided into two streams: one to theaters to watch the fight on closed-circuit screens, the other to a ballroom filled with tastings from 228 top wineries from around the world. The fight crowd was bigger and energetic, but the wine lovers were determined, lining up early for the chance to pick up their complimentary Riedel glasses and taste their favorites.

Their choices included icons such as Bordeaux first-growth Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2007 (released at $427 per bottle); Mollydooker’s Shiraz McLaren Vale Carnival of Love 2012 (Wine Spectator’s No. 2 wine of 2014); and Concha y Toro’s Cabernet Sauvignon Puente

Luisa Ponzi, of Oregon’s Ponzi

Alto Don Melchor 2010 (the No. 9 wine of 2014).

In total, four states and 15 countries were represented; while Italy was the leading contingent, with 61 wineries, offerings from Austria, Greece, Hungary and Mexico testified to the global nature of today’s wine world.

The attendees were nearly as diverse. All three events pulled in wine lovers from surrounding states and beyond. Many of the guests had attended multiple Grand Tour tastings. “This might be my 10th event,” said Gitesh Patel, from Bakersfield, Calif., who was tasting in Las Vegas. “Please, don’t ever stop coming here.” Patel sampled a wide range of reds, but admitted, “I could just enjoy the Haut-Brion all night long.”

The Dallas tasting was Pam and Bart Burgess’ first Wine Spectator event, though the Fort Worth–based couple has been visiting Napa Valley since 1989. They compared notes as they sipped 2006 J. Schram from Schramsberg and snacked on Tex-Mex delicacies offered from food trucks at the Hyatt Regency, where the tasting was held.

“I will be buying this,” said Pam, referring to the Belle Glos Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Las Alturas 2013. “It’s just delicious.” Bart was leaning toward a different expression of Pinot Noir: the Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune Clos de la Mousse 2011. But they agreed on one thing. “This is a terrific event,” they chorused. “Y’all come back to Texas!”

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 15

T R A V E L SAN FRANCISCO HOT SPOT

THE PROGRESS

H

usband-and-wife team Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski like to put their own spin on dining.

K_\`i cXk\jk i\jkXliXek# k_\ Gif^i\jj# fg\e\[ `e cXk\ )'(+ n`k_ X j_fik d\el ]ifd n_`Z_ \m\ipfe\ Xk k_\ kXYc\ X^i\\j fe j`o j_Xi\[ gcXk\j ]fi -, g\i g\ijfe% K_\ Gif^i\jjĂ&#x2039; j`jk\i i\jkXliXek# JkXk\ 9`i[ Gifm`j`fej# fg\e\[ e\ok [ffi fe E\n P\XiĂ&#x2039;j <m\ f] )'((% 9fk_ i\jtaurants are among the toughest in town to get into.

K_\ Gif^i\jj# Xk c\Xjk# XZZ\gkj i\j\imXk`fej% 9i`fqX Xe[ BiXj`ejb` gifm\[ k_\`i d\kkc\ Xk k_\ cXk\ cXd\ek\[ IlY`Zfe% =ff[ Xk Gif^i\jj `j `e]fid\[ Yp k_\ jXd\ [\[`ZXk`fe kf Zi\Xk`e^ glcjXk`e^ ]cXmfij Yp lj`e^ ^i\Xk `e^i\[`\ekj `em\ek`m\cp% K_\ j`^eXkli\ g\Zfi`ef Ă&#x2C6;ifk`Ă&#x2030; n`k_ YcXZb kil]]c\ Ylkk\id`cb glkj k_\ Z_\np# Zi\g\$c`b\ gXeZXb\# i`Z_ n`k_ j_\\gĂ&#x2039;j d`cb Z_\\j\# fe X gffc f] kXe^p jXlZ\% K_\ Ă&#x2C6;ki\Xjli\ Z_\jkĂ&#x2030; ]\Xkli\j X ]\imented merguezlike sausage floating with trout quenelc\j# Xe[ gldgb`e$i`Z\ [ldgc`e^j Xii`m\ `e X gfib Yifk_ k_Xk nflc[ [f X iXd\e jg\Z`Xc`jk gifl[% CfZXc b`n`]il`k n`k_ i`ZfkkX# Xcdfe[j Xe[ g`Zbc\[ jleZ_fb\j i\m\Xcj Xe Dinner at the Progress is one of the hottest tickets in town.

Xii\jk`e^ `ek\igcXp f] jn\\k# j`cbp# Zi\Xdp Xe[ kXe^p% K_\ _`^_$\e\i^p# _`^_$Z\`c`e^\[ [`e`e^ iffd# feZ\ X k_\Xk\i# ]\Xkli\j Xe Meals here begin with a half dozen or more amuses fg\e b`kZ_\e Xe[ cf]k j\Xk`e^% NXcb$`ej ZXe fi[\i ]ifd X ('$X$gcXk\ d\el Xk YflZ_\j# jlZ_ Xj gXg\i$k_`e a\ib Z_`Zb\e jc`Z\j# gXid\jXe$ifj\dXip ZiXZbk_\ YXi% N`k_ `kj ZfddleXc Xjg\Zkj# [`e`e^ Xk k_\ Gif^i\jj `j c`b\ X ZXjlXc \ij Xe[ [\c`ZXk\ jhlXY c`m\i dfljj\% 8e[ Y\ ]fi\nXie\[1 ;\jj\ikj k\e[ kf [`ee\i Xk k_\ _flj\ f] X ]i`\e[ n_f i\Xccp befnj _fn kf Zffb% gcXp [fne jn\\ke\jj Xe[ \dg_Xj`q\ jfli Xe[ Y`kk\i efk\j% â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Harvey Steiman AXjfe 8c\oXe[\i# gi\m`fljcp f] :pilj Xe[ >Xip ;Xebf# ilej k_\ n`e\ program. The list offers the likes of Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-duTHE PROGRESS GXg\ (00' (0' Ylk \dg_Xj`q\j c\jj\i$befne mXcl\ n`e\j jlZ_ Xj Q\`k1525 Fillmore St., San Francisco Telephone (415) 673-1294 ^\`jk Kifljj\Xl >i`j Iljj`Xe I`m\i MXcc\p )'(* *, # X g\XZ_\j$Xe[$Zi\Xd Website www.theprogress-sf.com Open Dinner, daily Cost Prix-fixe menu, n_`k\2 Xe[ K_`\iip >\idX`e JXldli$:_Xdg`^ep ;fdX`e\ [\j IfZ_\j $65 Corkage $30 for first two bottles E\lm\j )'(* -, # X jc\\b Xe[ iXZp i\[%

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ruise lines are continuing to refine their wine and food offerings. Jacques PĂŠpin oversees a restaurant on Oceania Cruisesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Marina, and othersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;including Celebrity Cruises, Cunard, MSC Cruises, Crystal Cruises and Disney Cruise Line, as well as smaller companies such as Silversea, Windstar Cruises, Seabourn and SeaDream Yacht Clubâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;also provide more sophisticated dining. Oceaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Riviera holds Wine Spectatorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Award of Excellence, and Celebrity ships hold 10 awards.

Seabourn has upped the ante: This fall it will debut a partnership with chef Thomas Keller of the French Laundry in Napa, Per Se in New York and Bouchon in several locations (for a total of five Wine Spectator awards, including two Grand Awards).

Seabourn representatives say the fall 2015 offerings will include â&#x20AC;&#x153;an array of dishes, ranging from appetizers to entrĂŠes to desserts, for dining venues aboard [three ships].â&#x20AC;?

Next spring, Seabourn will open a signature Keller restaurant, likely with a beverage program run by Kellerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s group.

Devin Knell, chef de cuisine for the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group, says they approached the partnership carefully: â&#x20AC;&#x153;We had to make sure it was a good decision for us.â&#x20AC;? But Seabournâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s commitment quickly became clear.

Seabourn Quest â&#x20AC;&#x153;They were very eager to get what we want, and they already use some of the same purveyors as us,â&#x20AC;? Knell says. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s looking forward to finding local products abroad and sharing American food on board.

The million-dollar question: Will Keller be cooking at sea? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Both of us will be on board, but we have not decided how much. I will be on as much as possible,â&#x20AC;? Knell says. With Kellerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ninja-style service and with rotating staff on ships, training will be ongoing. Says Knell, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re always improving and learning. The danger is diluting the culture. We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to do that, and we want to represent Seabourn well too.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Owen Dugan

16 N@E< JG<:K8KFI Â&#x203A; ALCP *(# )'(,

PARISIAN PANORAMA If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in Paris this summer and looking for a bar with a great view, head for the Peninsula hotel, which opened last fall in a majestic and historic edifice in the 16th arrondissement, just steps from the Arc de Triomphe. Home to George Gershwin when he wrote An American in Paris, the Beaux Arts building underwent a meticulous restoration that was completed last year. The spectacular rooftop terrace of Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oiseau Blanc restaurant and bar offers 360-degree views of Paris; with the Eiffel Tower less than

a mile away, the panorama is stunning. For those who want to stay indoors, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the oak-paneled and gilded Bar KlĂŠber on the ground floor, as well as an adjoining cigar lounge. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Kim Marcus THE PENINSULA PARIS 19 Avenue KlĂŠber, Paris Telephone (011) 33-1-5812-2888 Website www.paris.peninsula.com

TOP: ALANNA HALE

ALL ABOARD FOR NAPAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FINEST

S P I R I T S

For When the Sun Never Sets

BY JACK BETTRIDGE

JAMES WORRELL; FOOD STYLIST: BRIAN PRESTON-CAMPBELL

T

he quintessential drink of the English summer is as elusive as the season it serves. Each year Pimm’s Cup appears as a coolant for watching such rarefied sporting events as grass-court tennis and five-day-long rowing competitions. As quickly as it emerges, it vanishes for the rest of the year.

The drink’s history is vague, and its taxonomy difficult to define. It’s the rare premixed bar tincture at which serious mixologists don’t reflexively sniff. The name on the label is indistinguishable from the cocktail it goes into, and that cocktail’s recipe is the source of endless argument.

The one clear thing about this fruity, spicy, reddish-brown liqueur is that it turns into a brilliant refresher when it’s hot outside.

Pimm’s story traces back to 1823 and James Pimm, who opened a London oyster bar. At some point (few of the dates are clear), the patron concocted a mix of herbs and liqueurs with a gin base.

While the aim may have been to provide customers with a digestif for shellfish, David T. Smith, the author of Forgotten Spirits & Long Lost Liqueurs, suspects that it was created to hide the fact that the poor gin of the time made for “a dodgy foundation.”

Pimm sold his restaurant in the 1860s, along with the trademark and secret formula for the liqueur.

Succeeding owners would bottle and distribute it throughout the British empire, where it found conducive climates year-round.

Although Pimm’s Cup was originally served in a cup, the name also places it in a loose group the Brits call “summer fruit cups.” A cup is a drink mixed with fruit flavors and something alcoholic.

William Terrington’s Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks, from 1869, describes various quaffs spun with wine, beer, whiskey, Sherry, brandy and more.

The category has narrowed a little in modern times, but Smith’s website on the subject (www.summerfruitcup.wordpress.com) still includes the ginger wine–informed Stones Summer Cup alongside offerings from the brands Plymouth Gin and Bathtub Gin. “It’s quite well to explain what a summer cup is by saying Pimm’s and people say, ‘Oh, sure, I understand,’ ” Smith says. Still, it’s an oversimplification; think of how inexact it would be to simply call a Martini a cocktail.

David Wondrich, author of Punch, says Pimm’s is better described as a “gin sling”: a mix of spirit, sugar, water and flavoring. But Pimm’s is not immutably that, either. The name you’ll encounter on the label in the United States is Pimm’s The Original No. 1 Cup. The numbering stems from subsequent iterations invented for the British market,

each with a different spirit base. Pimm’s No.2 was founded on Scotch, No. 4 on rum and No. 5 on rye whiskey. All have since disappeared from store shelves. The brandy-based No. 3 still appears as the seasonally offered Pimm’s Winter Cup. A return of No. 6, employing vodka, is rumored.

The liqueur’s signature cocktail, also dubbed Pimm’s Cup, calls for No. 1. The drink is essentially Pimm’s over ice with some sort of sparkling liquid and a rowdy gang of fruit. The English recipe calls for lemonade, but in Brit-speak that means light lemon-flavored seltzer. Other versions call for citrus soda, ginger beer and even sparkling wine.

Oddly, garnish marks the most vehement point of contention. The more-the-merrier approach bombards Pimm’s with orange, lemon, lime, strawberry and mint. Purists would limit any addition to cucumber.

PIMM’S CUP Strict constructionists, however, 1 part Pimm’s No. 1 Cup consider even that practice hea3 parts lemon-lime soda then, allowing only borage (a Mix ingredients in a highball glass flower common to England, someover ice. Garnish with mint, cucumtimes used as a gin botanical, that ber, orange and strawberry. tastes of cucumber). The brand highlighted the passion of this debate in 1949, when it first marketed Pimm’s in the United States: A pair of actresses staged a hair-pulling argument over proper garnish in a New York nightclub for the benefit of the press.

But it was in New Orleans that Pimm’s ultimately found its second home. The Napoleon House, the best-known purveyor, makes its Pimm’s cocktail garnished only with a cucumber. But as Abigail Gullo, head bar chef of Sobou, says, competition persists about town. Her version follows a more English style, with garnishes of fresh strawberries, blueberries, blackberries and mint, served in a wine goblet. In the mixing stage, she adds pressed ginger syrup and the traditional cucumber. Gullo’s topper is a splash of gin—a welcome addition, as Pimm’s is fairly low-proof, at 25 percent alcohol. A shandy variation, invented by Liam Deegan at Sylvain and called the Table Tennis, includes orange, lemon and lime juices, with a topping of local wheat beer.

The Internet has spawned many DIY fruit cups. Replicating the classic seems futile, but possible partners for a gin-based cup include triple sec, vermouth, Sherry, Port, amaro and such flavors as ginger, quinine, tea and fresh herbs. Perhaps even more interesting is approximating the unavailable numbered variations. Start with one part Pimm’s No. 1, add one part spirit of your choice and top with two parts sparkling beverage. Try Scotch (not too peaty), brandy (don’t waste XO), rum (dark) and rye (even better, Bourbon). Vodka serves only to fortify the drink. A Tequila Pimm’s was never made, but is the subject of experiments dubbed No. 7.

Jack Bettridge is features editor of Cigar Aficionado.

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 19

S A V V Y NOT JUST PORT

Ever since Portugal’s Douro region began producing dry table wines, the country’s star has been rising. These reds and whites, mostly blends based on local varieties, deliver both quality and value.

QUINTA DO CRASTO Douro Superior 2012 (93, $30) Plush, refined; raspberry tart, red plum, cherry pastry, cardamom, savory spice QUINTA DO CRASTO Douro 2013 (91, $20) Slate, mineral, black currant, dried berry, raspberry ganache, black olive; powerful DUORUM Douro 2013 (91, $20) Delicate, taut; violet, plum, red berry, mineral, shiso leaf QUINTA DO PASSADOURO Douro 2012 (91, $25) Raspberry, sandalwood, plum tart, boysenberry, hot stone, spice; elegant, pure REAL COMPANHIA VELHA Douro Porca de Murça Red Reserva 2011 (91, $18) Rich; dark plum, dried beef, cocoa powder, mint, mineral ROZÈS Douro Terras do Grifo Red 2012 (91, $17) Violet, cherry, red plum; elegant, crisp CAP WINE Douro Barco Negro 2012 (90, $12) Sleek; crushed red fruits, hot stone, plum tart, sandalwood, cocoa powder QUINTA DE LA ROSA Douro dou Rosa White 2013 (90, $15) Baked apple, honey, citrus, white currant, mineral, spice CASA FERREIRINHA Douro White Planalto Reserva 2013 (89, $15) Juicy; green apple, peach, currant, spice, slate DUORUM Douro Tons Red 2013 (89, $12) Red plum, red currant, mineral, hot stone; elegant

LAFOND Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills SRH 2013 (90, $23) Rich, flashy; fig, apricot, honeydew, toasty oak STUHLMULLER Chardonnay Alexander Valley 2013 (90, $24) Cream-laced green apple, melon, citrus, honeydew; tight, fresh

SPANISH STYLE

Rioja comes in different styles, shown by the wines below. The Franco-Españolas is in the traditional camp, with more spice and potpourri notes allied with an elegant profile, while the Dinastía Vivanco offers richness and more obvious fruit and the El Coto de Rioja combines the modern and traditional styles in a graceful package. Finally, the Cune Rosado reflects the darker-hued versions of rosé typical of Spain.

BODEGAS DINASTÍA VIVANCO Rioja Reserva 2010 (92, $25) Plum pudding, baking spices, coffee, toasty vanilla; dense, modern BODEGAS FRANCO-ESPAÑOLAS Rioja Bordón Gran Reserva 2006 (91, $24) Vanilla, candied orange peel, tobacco, dried cherry, spice EL COTO DE RIOJA Rioja Coto de Imaz Reserva 2010 (90, $24) Vibrant, graceful; cherry, berry, vanilla, toast, citrus CUNE Rioja Rosado 2014 (90, $14) Blood orange, maraschino cherry, rose, pomegranate

SOUTHERN CHARM

CHARDONNAY TIME

America’s favorite white is grown around the world. This New World selection offers different styles, from tight and vibrant to rich and tropical.

VALDEZ FAMILY Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2012 (93, $30) Rich, creamy; honey, fig, green apple, pear, melon, toast ST. INNOCENT Chardonnay Willamette Valley Freedom Hill Vineyard Dijon Clone 2013 (92, $26) Lime, yellow peach, pear, spice; polished, lively BUEHLER Chardonnay Carneros 2013 (91, $25) Ripe, juicy; pear, melon, citrus, mineral SBRAGIA FAMILY Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley Home Ranch 2012 (91, $28) Tropical fruit, pineapple, citrus, melon WAIPARA SPRINGS Chardonnay Waipara Premo Reserve 2012 (91, $25) Juicy; mango, pineapple, lemon, apple, peach

REAL COMPANHIA VELHA Douro Porca de Murça Red 2013 (90, $10) BEST VALUE Taut; roasted plum, dried berry

22 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

S H O P P E R

These wines from the south of France are ideal matches for grilled meat and richer, denser types of fish, such as tuna, swordfish or salmon. The Madirans blend Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Fer Servadou, while the Domaine de Nizas and Lascaux use Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, and Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah, respectively.

ALAIN BRUMONT Madiran Tour Bouscassé 2010 (91, $19) Sleek, concentrated; dark plum, dark cherry, graphite, chocolate, mint, flowers ALAIN BRUMONT Madiran Château Bouscassé Argile Rouge 2007 (90, $23) Dried berry, dark plum, tobacco leaf, sweet spice; supple DOMAINE DE NIZAS Languedoc 2011 (90, $20) Elegant; roasted plum, black cherry, spice, olive, mocha CHÂTEAU DE LASCAUX Languedoc Rosé 2014 (89, $17) Cherry pit, melon rind, nectarine; refreshing —Bruce Sanderson

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 95 Bomb Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2012 $50 OREGON A supple, expressive, multilayered and harmonious red, this teems with ripe currant, plum and blueberry fruit.

COLLECTIBLE 94 Antinori Toscana Solaia 2011 $325 ITALY This rich, bright red displays plum, blackberry, boysenberry, leather and spice flavors, allied to a dense structure.

SMART BUY 90 Forstreiter Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kremstal Kremser Kögl 2013 $13 AUSTRIA Shows good structure to the spiced flavors of ripe pear, apple tart and melon, lengthening out midpalate.

BEST VALUE 88 Chateau St. Jean Fumé Blanc Sonoma County 2013 $12 CALIFORNIA A whiff of toast mingles with lemon verbena and green apple notes, leading to a big mouthful of juicy citrus flavors.

IN THIS ISSUE’S BUYING GUIDE PflËcc ]`e[ 17 classic wines and nearly 375 outstanding wines from among reviews of 600 new releases. Tasting notes and scores for those wines, along with more than 550 additional wines reviewed since our last issue, can be found at WineSpectator.com using the Wine Ratings search, a members-only service.

JAMES LAUBE

A

Measures of Greatness

friend uncorked a 2005 La Tâche recently for his 60th birthday. It was a singular moment— his first La Tâche. The wine performed perfectly, showing La Tâche’s vibrant, ethereal, earth-scented raspberry charisma and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s house style of understated elegance. It gained nuance and delicacy, changing ever so slowly, the way a chameleon changes colors.

What makes La Tâche so special goes beyond what it offers in the glass. It is its pedigree. This celebrated 15-acre grand cru in the heart of Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits is a monopole, which means it has just one owner. Most of Burgundy’s vineyards are carved up into tiny slices, each with a different owner.

La Tâche is one of the largest and richest of Vosne-Romanée’s grands crus.

There are Pinot Noirs grown elsewhere that compare favorably with La Tâche, but it has something most of them lack—lineage. La Tâche is a crossover, a bridge between old and new, a classic of the past and of the present.

The curtain is falling on the generation of wines that defined the term “modern classic.” The masterpieces of my generation came after World War II and extended into the 1960s. Most were French, and as rare as the people who could afford them. Today, most of these wines are past their prime and fading, but because of their enduring presence and reputation, they are revered.

For my generation, great vintages of Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Rhône and Sauternes were delineated by pedigree; grape variety, appellation, house style, vintage date, longevity and validation by both critics and the marketplace defined them. Wines need to demonstrate their greatness through endurance and appreciation in value. The clearest measure of a wine’s worth is what it sells for, with auctions the most visible indicator.

Consider the 2005 La Tâche, which sold for $1,300 on release in 2009. Today it sells at auction for $4,500, and twice that on a wine list, if you can find it. It is, like all DRC wines, a smallproduction bottling, which makes it—like its siblings—next to

impossible to obtain. The wines are so sought-after that nearly all of them go directly to elite restaurants or into the cellars of collectors. Still, enough of this great wine is produced that it circulates sufficiently to demonstrate its cachet.

Bordeaux châteaus come in many sizes, yet some of the most prestigious can produce 10,000 to 30,000 cases, which dwarfs most Burgundies.

My generation of great wines is making way for the next, but the factors that distinguished the classics of my era are still in play. Though there are tens of thousands of new wines released each year, few are poised to make it to the top, because the elements that defined the greatest wines in the past will continue to do so in the future. That won’t change.

Appellation and grape variety remain cornerstones. There’s a reason Bordeaux has been the kingpin for decades. Its wines come from small, contained communes, such as Margaux or Pauillac or Pomerol, and are dominated by two grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Time has shown that these are great grapes when grown in select sites in great winegrowing areas, yet even within that group, some properties rise above others.

Special vineyards within a contained region that has a history of long-lived wines are also essential. Napa Valley is one of the best examples in the New World of singling out small, special sites for Cabernet. Napa’s Cabernets have demonstrated greatness and longevity for far longer than most people realize. There are other areas of the world where Bordeaux varieties shine. But many are too large to bring focus to terroir.

The role of critics in identifying the best wines is another consideration. A wine requires some credentials in order to be measured among the elite. Ratings help, and critical consensus about which wines are superior narrows the field.

Even as the wine world has grown exponentially, the same factors that separate the true greats from the rest are a tight set of boundaries: grape, appellation, vineyard size, lineage, reputation and longevity are often what set the classics apart. Whether Old World or New, wines excelling in these criteria are the only ones worthy of what amounts to a coronation. And the attributes used to determine the classics will be in place for years to come.

Senior editor James Laube has been with Wine Spectator since 1981.

GREG GORMAN

The elements that defined the greatest wines in the past will continue to do so in the future. That won’t change.

W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M

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Curse of the Perpetual Palate

ine lovers can be as lazy and laidback during the warmer months as beer drinkers, lemonade sippers or any other bunch of summertime imbibers.

Yet we have one big difference: No matter how relaxed we are, our palates remain on the job. A subpar wine registers in a single sip, never mind whether you’re at a picnic table, a summer soirée or a backyard barbecue.

Call it the curse of the perpetual palate. You can’t turn it off. (Actually, you can, but it requires an almost stoic indifference to suffering.)

Now, few of us like to admit this publicly. We prefer to think of ourselves as regular sorts who just happen to like wine. And that’s true. But the difference is, more than most others, we pay attention to what we’re drinking. That’s the curse, of course.

So what are we to do when we’re at an event and the only wine is subpar?

First, out of social necessity, lie. No matter what sort of swill you’re served, good manners require you to insist to your host that, why yes, it’s a lovely wine, just perfect for the occasion.

In the meantime, you are suffering. After this gracious reassurance to your host, you casually sidle over to a nearby sink or geranium and, you hope unobserved, dump your glass.

Now what? Precisely because you know that at these sorts of easygoing (too easygoing, really) summer soirées the wine will likely be awful, you have wisely brought your own far more palatable bottle as a host or hostess gift.

This is vital: Do not make a big deal out of this gift. In fact, don’t make any kind of a deal about it. Murmur something along the lines of “I thought this might be enjoyable” to the host as you enter, and then make sure to place the bottle on a nearby table or kitchen counter.

Doing this ensures that the host doesn’t immediately stow the bottle, thinking that the wine is something special and should be reserved for another occasion, one where you won’t be present.

Instead, your suave, offhand approach suggests that the wine isn’t something to be treasured or, most importantly, put away.

Whatever you bring, it shouldn’t be expensive. You don’t want to be a jerk, snobbishly drinking something rarefied while everyone else is sluicing down something decidedly lesser.

My first choice may surprise you: red vermouth. Technically, it’s a wine, one infused with a variety of spices and herbs. Why vermouth? Because a little goes a long way, what with serving it on the rocks with a splash of seltzer or sparkling water. Second, if you bring the right vermouth, it’s a terrific refresher. My red vermouth of choice is Antica Formula by the Italian producer Carpano. Fashioned from a 1786 recipe, it’s powerfully aromatized and mighty tasty.

As for proper wines, I try, if possible, to bring a magnum of something inexpensive. I like magnums because they allow you to share—at least if you do it discreetly enough. (“I found something interesting,” you say to your pals, never letting it drop that you yourself brought it in self-defense.)

I like magnums of basic Beaujolais, or at most Beaujolais-Villages. They’re relatively cheap and are ideal when served very cool. I recommend an inexpensive Montepulciano d’Abruzzo for the same reasons. You can find genuinely good Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from producers such as Masciarelli or Zonin, among others, for as little as $15 a magnum.

Ditto for magnums of Muscadet, especially if you’re at a beach party or some occasion where seafood is served. Prices for magnums of Muscadet can get a bit more expensive, upward of $40, but that’s hardly oppressive if the wine is truly fine. Domaine de la Pépière offers its superb Muscadets in magnum, as does the equally stellar Domaine de l’Écu, among other producers. (It’s just an impression, but it seems to me that only better-quality Muscadets are offered in magnums, so they’re a safe bet even if you know nothing about the producer.)

No matter which wine you bring, one thing is certain: The curse of the perpetual palate is real. And it’s essential to protect what is, after all, your biggest wine investment—your palate. It’s the least you can do, right?

Matt Kramer has contributed to Wine Spectator regularly since 1985.

No matter how relaxed we are, our palates remain on the job. We pay attention to what we’re drinking.

W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M

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David Guimaraens, head winemaker for the Taylor Fladgate group, sees two trends competing for preeminence in table wines: old-vine field blends and fruitier, modern-style bottlings.

he clash of tradition and modernity, amid an amazing array of grape varieties, terroirs and winemaking cultures, makes Portugal one of the most dynamic wine-producing nations in the world today.

The country is best known for its Ports, which continue in many ways to define Portugal’s global recognition: Dow’s 2011 Vintage Port was Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year in 2014. But perhaps even more exciting is the recent emergence of exceptional table wines, especially reds, two of which earned spots in our Top 10 last year. As these bottlings continue to excel, new frontiers open up—and new tensions arise over the shape of things to come. Many of the issues roiling the wider wine world are playing out among the ancient vineyards and ascendant wineries of this distinctive land.

The breakout has centered on the Douro River Valley in the north of Portugal. Once exclusively enriched by the Port trade, this formerly remote corner of Europe has never had brighter—or more complicated—prospects.

The Douro is a vast vineyard realm of about 110,000 acres, defined by dramatic terraced vineyards that cascade down the sides of the valley formed by the Douro River, which flows from Spain, where it is called the Duero and is home to yet more notable wine districts.

The Portuguese side of the border is defined by the river’s rugged canyons, where the earth, dense with schist and granite substrates, sometimes has to be dynamited to carve out vineyard terraces. This is the home of the historic quintas (estates) that have made Port for centuries and are now leading the way for table wines.

“The Douro is a region of mountain viticulture, and the variables

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we have to choose from are almost endless. From orientation to altitude to microclimate, they all have a tremendous influence on how the grapes grow,” says David Guimaraens, head winemaker for the Taylor Fladgate group, one of the Douro’s most storied and powerful wine companies. “But it’s not Burgundy. We have to turn the rock into soil.”

Yet there is much more to Portuguese wine than the Douro.

Approximately half of exports to the United States come from the Vinho Verde region in northern Portugal, which makes mostly light-bodied whites. In the Alentejo, in south-central Portugal, ripe reds rule. Other key regions holding out promise for table wines are the Dão and the coastal appellations of Lisboa and Bairrada. There are also vast troves of the historic fortified wines of Port and Madeira.

Portugal is about the same size as Indiana, yet has about 590,000 acres of wine grapes, just a bit more than California, all grown in a beneficent Mediterranean climate. With more than 250 native grape varieties, and about 80 used in fine winemaking, Portugal offers a daunting cornucopia of wines, a diverse and complex mix that powers the viticulture of this varied and beautiful land but also threatens to obscure its identity on the world stage.

On a two-week trip to Portugal earlier this year, I spoke with dozens of vintners and visited vineyards all around the country. I heard clashes of opinion on almost every important factor of grapegrowing and winemaking. Some want to modernize, employing the full arsenal of new technology; others feel traditional practices are still the best guides. Some believe in focusing on a few proven grape varieties; others use the rich palette of the country’s indigenous

grapes in multifaceted field blends.

There are pioneers who embrace long-overlooked white wines and obscure or undervalued regions. Outsiders become part of the movement, while competitors partner to further shared goals.

Alongside the established leaders, a younger generation of ambitious Portuguese vintners is striving to define new terroirs and to better exploit Portugal’s wealth of potential.

It’s an open field—and the race is on.

Looking to the Past ristiano van Zeller is a big man, gregarious yet cultured, who sports a beard well-suited to his broad visage. He represents the 15th generation of his family in the Port business, and his pride is undiminished despite the many ups, downs and near misses of his winemaking career. His deep roots have given him a strong

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conviction that the old ways remain the best approach to expressing Portugal’s distinctive character.

Few careers better encapsulate the changes that have swept Portugal during the past two decades. Van Zeller once oversaw the region’s most storied estate, Quinta do Noval, before his family sold it amid debt and discord in 1993. Until 2000 he consulted for Quinta do Crasto, a top estate in the heart of the Douro River Valley, helping to refine its table wines, before moving on to focus fully on his own estate, Quinta Vale Dona Maria, founded in 1996.

He has been one of the key players helping to catapult Portugal to the top tier of the world’s red wine hierarchy.

On a late January night, van Zeller is uncharacteristically subdued.

He recently broke his leg, which is now in a cast, and he is still a touch feverish from a bout with the flu. Yet he is undeterred, meeting me at Crasto during a tasting of wines from the Douro Boys, a promotional group whose ranks include the owners of Quinta do Vallado, Quinta do Vale Meão, Niepoort and Crasto. Despite the tongue-in-cheek moniker, the Douro Boys represent many of the region’s pioneering table wine vintners.

Van Zeller pours one of his newest wines from Vale Dona Maria. It’s a red called Vinha da Francisca, for his daughter. It hails from the stupendous 2011 vintage and is a blend based on the intensely colored Portuguese grape Sousão (50 percent), with the remainder comprising native varieties Rufete, Touriga Franca, Tinta Francisca and Touriga Nacional.

It’s a stunningly pure expression of the Douro’s dynamism, deep and rich, with dark fruit and spice flavors framed by fresh acidity and supple tannins.

“When I planted Francisca [in 2004], I had the flavors in my head. You can’t escape your heritage, and Sousão is a big component of Noval. My family planted Sousão at Quinta do Roriz in the 18th century,” he says.

Van Zeller is also drawing inspiration from the past by starting fermentations in open basins the Portuguese call lagares—a technology straight from antiquity. “At Vale Dona Maria we are scrapping all the stainless steel and replacing it with granite lagares, with foot treading. The feet provide more gentle crushing than [any] robotic system, and that makes a difference,” he says.

Van Zeller champions the unique viticultural heritage of old-vine plantings in the Douro, where dozens of grape varieties may exist side by side—an attitude at odds with the philosophy of some of his neighbors.

He’s no reactionary, head buried in the sand. But he insists that the old traditions developed for reasons that are rooted in Portugal’s unique terroir, and that to abandon them is to risk losing the country’s identity. His wines testify strongly to his beliefs.

PIERRE MOSCA

Driving Into the Future Fifteenth-generation winemaker Cristiano an Zeller adheres to traditional methods at his estate, Quinta Vale Dona Maria, which specializes in terroir-driven field blends from indigenous Portuguese grapes.

priver from Crasto is the small village of Pinhão, located in the heart of the Cima Corgo, the most prized of the Douro’s Port grapegrowing

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districts. On Pinhão’s outskirts is Quinta do Bomfim, the winemaking center of the Symington family and a key source of fruit for Dow’s Port.

The Symingtons are the Douro’s biggest vineyard owners and one of its most deeply rooted families. They are betting on the future and relying on technology to get them there. The ambitious expansion and modernization of the cellars at Bomfim include six of the largest stainless-steel lagares I’ve ever seen, complete with robotic plungers that mimic foot treading.

For Charles Symington, who helps oversee Bomfim, the stainless-steel lagares are the key to precision winemaking. “If you want your wines quite a bit drier, like Dow’s, or sweeter, like Graham’s [Port], you’ve got to get it just right,” he explains. “With the robotic lagares, we can tread as long as we want.

We can just press a button for more extraction. It just doesn’t happen if you don’t have automatic controls.” There are also heating and cooling pipes embedded in the steel. “This allows us to ferment at high temperature or low temăĂ N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

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In the wake of the 2008 financial crash, the Symingtons, who own 2,200 acres spread across 27 different quintas, bought the historic Quinta do Roriz estate, and subsequently made it the primary source for Chryseia, the table wine they produce in partnership with former Bordeaux vintner Bruno Prats. Prats brought an outsider’s perspective to the table, at once sensitive to terroir and engaged with state-of-the-art technology.

The 2011 Chryseia was Wine Spectator’s No. 3 wine of 2014.

The Symingtons have also replanted many of the estate’s old vineyards, a move that engenders sadness among their neighbors, including van Zeller, who oversaw the property’s vineyard management until the sale. Yet the Symingtons are undeterred. “We replanted Roriz for economics,” says managing director Rupert Symington. “For efficiency, lower unit cost and, of course, quality.

We’ve eliminated overproducing varieties like [Tinta] Roriz and have put in

COURTESY OF SYMINGTON; MAP: HENRY ENG

The stainless-steel lagares Symington installed at Warre’s Cavadinha facility allow the company to carefully regulate its winemaking, putting the firm at Portugal’s cutting edge.

Sousão and Touriga Franca instead.”

While van Zeller and the Symingtons compete in their philosophical outlooks and market presence, their passion and the quality of the wines they make are helping to define Portugal’s future. They share the same goals but are taking very different paths to get there.

A Cornucopia of Grapes he farther you go upriver toward the Spanish border, the hotter and drier the climate gets. The Douro is a rugged region where the sinuous and curving lines of terraced vineyards define the landscape. At its bottom flows the Douro River, with adjoining streams emptying into it from precipitous peaks, all contributing to a multitude of terroirs and exposures.

Just north of Pinhão, in the small village of Vale de Mendiz, and almost within the shadow of the great Port estate Quinta do Noval, Portugal’s most successful winemaking couple has set up shop. In the 12 years since the founding of their estate, Pintas, Sandra Tavares da Silva and Jorge Serôdio Borges have quickly risen to the top of the Douro table wine scene.

From a sliver of little more than 5 acres in 2001, they now own 25 acres of vineyards, finding key sites and buying them as they could afford to do so.

They make their own table Sandra Tavares da Silva and Jorge Serôdio Borges, of Pintas, draw from small vineyards to produce one of Portugal’s best table wines. wine and Port while working Manoella offers a mix of 30- to 40-year-old vineyards that are day jobs: Tavares is employed by van Zeller at Vale Dona Maria, dominated by Touriga Nacional (60 percent). It also has Tinta and Borges at nearby Quinta do Passadouro. The couple’s Pintas Roriz, Touriga Franca and Tinta Francisca. The mix is common to red scored 98 points in 2011, the highest rating yet for a Portuguese new plantings in the Douro, where three to five varieties have a table wine. But they are not resting on their laurels. They want to majority presence. There’s also a small plot of 100-year-old vines double the size of their tiny Pintas winery in Vale de Mendiz and that comprises 30 different varieties, used to make the producer’s are planning to build a new facility at the site of the nearby Quinta vinhas velhas (old-vine) bottling. da Manoella, where they are rehabilitating a derelict estate set in This contrast between new plantings and old vineyards, a few a small, steep-sided valley. The property, which Borges bought from selected grape varieties and a complex field blend, is a major issue his family in 2010, covers almost 150 acres, 42 of which are planted playing out in Portugal today. What blend makes the best wine? to vineyards. The couple had to build a 2-mile road down a steep What approach will be the easiest for consumers to understand? slope just to reach the site.

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Will quality and marketability conflict?

One of the Douro’s leading reds, the Quinta do Crasto Vinha Maria Teresa counts more than 40 varieties in the mix. Unlike New World vineyards or the tightly controlled appellations of France, many vineyards in the Douro—especially the older ones— are a mix of varieties that are only now being identified. In the viticultural traditions of the region, when one vine died, it was replaced, but usually on an ad hoc basis, with few records kept of what was actually put into the ground.

Tradition still holds sway at the Taylor Fladgate group. In its stable is the Fonseca Port house, which celebrates its 200th anniversary this year and whose 1994 Vintage Port shared Wine Spectator Wine of the Year honors with the 1994 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port in 1997. The Taylor group is notable not only for the perennial high quality of its Ports, but also for a steadfast reluctance on the part of CEO Adrian Bridge to branch out from Port to make table wines.

“Someday we will produce table wine, no doubt,” Guimaraens says. For now, he would prefer to assemble an entirely new team at Taylor to produce them. “I can’t make them,” he explains.

When Guimaraens surveys the Douro’s vineyards, he sees both hurdles and opportunities.

“The factor that distinguishes table wine, as it does in Port, are two tendencies: wines which base themselves on the first era of post-phylloxera vineyards, today dominated by stony terraces of vinhas velhas. These are characterized by highdensity planting of field blends.

“Then there is the new style of Douro wines that are focused on Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. To me these wines have a style all their own. They are fruitier than the old field blends.”

Borges and Tavares acknowledge the tension inherent in the Douro’s evolution. “First of all, we have to have an answer to the question of the field blends and the different varieties. For the first time, we have a variety that everybody knows—Touriga Nacional—and that’s important. If all of us take the same direction, we can go further. I think Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca for sure are the best varieties for us—the flagships,” Borges says.

“But I think field blends are important. They show the identity of the vineyard,” Tavares adds.

“The message of the field blend is difficult to transmit. Americans want to know what they are drinking,” Borges counters. “For people to understand the field blend, they have to understand our varieties individually.”

patrol the remotest uplands. The Douro then meanders across a plain before descending once again into a chasm, near the village of Pocinho. This is the Douro Superior.

Although change is raging across the Cima Corgo, the gold rush is in the Douro Superior. New vineyards are being planted across a sere and wild landscape. Douro vintners are drawn by the availability of land and the unique terroirs, which range from near level terrain to those abutting sheer cliffs. Here, ancient terroir meets modern methods.

At Quinta do Vale Meão, the region’s most renowned estate and the source of Wine Spectator’s No. 4 wine of 2014, quality has risen vertiginously since its first wines were released in 1999.

There are no mixed plantings here: The grapes are organized by block and variety. The three leading varieties at Vale Meão are Touriga Nacional (45 percent), Tinta Roriz (25 percent) and

A Gold Rush on the Frontier o the east, near the Spanish border, the Douro River emerges from a canyon where Egyptian vultures roam and wolves are said to

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Quinta do Vale Meão’s Vito (left), Luisa and Xito Olazabal strike a balance between viticultural tradition and modern techniques, producing table wines in addition to Vintage Port in the Douro Superior.

Touriga Franca (20 percent). For Francisco “Xito” Olazabal, winemaker and the son of owner Francisco “Vito” Olazabal, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca are the Douro’s best varieties: Nacional, with rich, complex and earthy dark fruit and violet-infused flavors that age well; and Franca, a bit higher in acidity and fruitiness.

Two years ago, Vale Meão doubled the size of its cellar. But instead of increasing its production of about 30,000 cases, Olazabal is using the extra space to modernize and upgrade. Yet old traditions linger; all of Vale Meão’s wines are made using traditional lagares, including a very fine Vintage Port. The new structure is an extension of the cellar first built in the late 19th century, but it’s hardly visible; much of it is below ground and blends seamlessly into the landscape.

Nearby is the home of one of the José Maria Soares Franco (left) and João Portugal Ramos at Duorum, their 395-acre estate near the village of Castelo Melhor. Drawn to most influential pioneers of the Douro the region by the arid climate, the two have made a host of high-scoring red and white table wines and plan to expand production. table wine revolution, João Nicolau de millimeters of rain per year, only a third of the rainfall in the Almeida, 66, who is Xito’s uncle. He recently retired from overseeBaixo Corgo, 30 miles downriver. ing Ramos Pinto for the French Champagne house Roederer, where Duorum’s best red is known as O. Leucura, named for an endanhe helped develop Duas Quintas, one of the earliest and most congered local bird. The 2008 offers a powerful mix of chocolate, minsistently high quality of the Douro’s table brands. eral, tar and spice flavors and comes from a plot of old vines rented Avuncular and soft-spoken, de Almeida has been working on from a local grower. his latest project, a beautiful hilltop site in the Douro Superior I descend into the gorge of the Douro with Soares Franco and called Monte Xisto (or Schist Mountain). Its 99-acre estate, with Portugal Ramos. Terraces have been carved out of the slopes with 25 acres of vines, overlooks the Douro near the mouth of the Coa. geometric precision. We pass by a pumping station that transports “Monte Xisto is an adventure and a legacy for the family. [Twentywater from the Douro to the canyon rim to irrigate the young vines five acres] is more than enough,” he says. “The idea is to make a almost 1,000 feet above. winery and a family house.”

We soon stop and walk over to the abandoned train station of The red, made from Touriga Nacional, Tinta Francesa and Castelo Melhor, still festooned with the decorative blue and white Sousão, is refined and rich-tasting, with a lovely minerality and tiles, called azulejos, that are common on facades throughout Porred fruit flavors. A white based on the native Portuguese grape tugal. The waters of the Douro flow by. The men say that one day Rabigato is planned. they hope to rehabilitate this site for tourists coming by the river, Just upriver is a much larger project, called Duorum. It is the and help them enjoy all that this magnificent region has to offer. product of a partnership between José Maria Soares Franco, who From their perspective, only by embracing Portugal’s past can the oversaw winemaking operations at Portugal’s largest wine company, country—and its wines—find a fruitful future.

Sogrape, until 2006, and João Portugal Ramos, who runs his own wine company based in the Alentejo region.

Duorum covers 395 acres near the small village of Castelo MelWhite Wines in a Land of Reds hor, with approximately 110 acres already under vine, about half he historic capital of Portuguese winemaking is the northern of what is envisioned. Why go to the end of Portugal to make city of Porto, Portugal’s second largest, at the mouth of the wine? “I believe that here we can have a much more consistent Douro. In the past, young Ports were transported in cask by small, quality in the grapes, and the reason is the climate,” Soares Franco sturdy boats called barcos rabelos from the remote interior of the says. He cites the region’s dry, hot weather. It receives about 300 Douro, home to the quintas, to the cool marine climate of Porto,

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“ W E A R E J U S T N O W D I S C O V E R I N G T H E O L D V I N E YA R D S I N T H E O L D E R R E G I O N S . W E F O U N D S O M E T H I N G T H AT O U R A N C E S T O R S K N E W I N T H E I R B O N E S , A N D I T I S V E R Y I N T E R E S T I N G . ” —NUNO MIRA DO Ó ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI ăĈ

where they would be blended and then aged. Today, tanker trucks have replaced the boats, but Porto still plays an important role as home to many of Portugal’s top vintners and winemakers.

At the Porto waterfront home of Luis Seabra, 42, and his Polandborn partner, Natalia Jessa, evidence of a different future is being poured. The occasion is an informal tasting and discussion of some of Portugal’s newest offerings. In marked contrast to tradition, they are all white wines, and they offer eye-opening quality.

“We’ve always been seen as a red wine country, but there are some very beautiful white wine regions. We are just now discovering the old vineyards in the older regions. We found something that our ancestors knew in their bones, and it is very interesting,” says Nuno Mira do Ó, who makes wine under the V Puro label.

He’s pouring a 2012 white he calls Druida, made from the ăĉ N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

Encruzado grape. It hails from the Dão region, where granite-based soils dominate an upland district south of the Douro.

Rich, ripe and filled with luscious minerality, Druida is a revelation. “The grapes are special. They are bulletproof to oxygen. When I first made the wine I thought it was reduced. It has a strange behavior—it doesn’t oxidize. It’s not a fruity wine, but it [shows] the fruit beautifully,” Mira do Ó explains.

Among Seabra’s offerings on the table is a white he calls Xisto Cru, from the Douro. It’s 100 percent barrel-fermented, but Seabra prefers it to rest gently on the lees without stirring. It carries all the richness, finesse and spiciness of a premier cru Burgundy, but instead of Chardonnay, it is made from Rabigato.

Also at the table is Tiago Alves de Sousa, the winemaker for his family’s estate in the Douro. He’s brought a white as well: the crisp

New Ground for Innovation o the south of the Douro lies the Dão. Although less than 50 miles from the Douro Superior as the crow flies, the conditions here are very different. “These are the coolest vineyards, or almost the coolest vineyards, you can have in Portugal,” say Dourobased winemaker Jorge Moreira.

The view from Quinta do Corujão, near the small town of Seia, is breathtaking. Small to medium mountain ranges undulate across the landscape to the north and east. Directly to the south is Portugal’s highest range, the Serra da Estrela, which reaches 9,000 feet.

Its snow-covered slopes glisten in the haze on this winter day. The Dão qualifies as a genetic font for much of Portuguese grapegrowing: Touriga Nacional may have first developed here, and the deeply colored and intense red variety called Alfrocheiro and the white Encruzado also come from the Dão.

Joining Moreira are fellow winemakers Xito Olazabal and Borges.

In the Douro, they are informal rivals, but here they are collaborating on a wine called M.O.B., an acronym derived from the first letter of each one’s last name. “We are very good friends, and we discussed that it would be fun to make a wine together. If we did it in the Douro we would be competing [with one another],” says Moreira, another acolyte of the Douro revolution, whose day jobs include overseeing the cellar of top Douro estate Quinta de la Rosa and revamping that of Real Companhia Velha, founded in 1756.

The M.O.B. trio is also in the Dão to explore the mostly untapped viticultural bounty of the region and to help it set a new course.

They make both a white and a red. The M.O.B. white is 70 percent Encruzado and 30 percent Bical, another little-known Portuguese variety, with its origins in Bairrada. It was barrel-fermented for six months, evenly split between new and used 500-liter oak barrels.

“The Encruzado is a variety that is very neutral when it is young.

It is a bit like Chardonnay,” Borges explains. It also has a slightly floral nature, with high natural acidity, and is widely considered Portugal’s highest quality native white grape.

The M.O.B. red is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Baga, Jaén (the Spanish Mencía grape) and Alfrocheiro. The 2011 features concentrated raspberry, meat, tar, smoke and spice flavors.

“What makes the Dão wines different is the minerality, and we have to work to keep it. We don’t go in the direction of concentration. We want to be very gentle with our wines,” Borges says. Moreira agrees: “We came to the Dão to make elegant and fresh wines, not big wines like the Douro.”

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From left: Vintners Tiago Alves de Sousa, Luis Seabra and Nuno Mira do Ó sample white wines from native grapes in the coastal city of Porto.

Alves de Sousa Branco da Gaivosa Reserva 2009, a blend of Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Arinto and Avesso—all indigenous Portuguese grapes. “Only Italy rivals Portugal in the amount of native grapes. With DNA fingerprinting, we are seeing the connections between the [Portuguese] varieties. Grapes with the same name in different regions are completely different,” de Sousa explains.

At Pintas, Tavares and Borges also make one of the Douro’s best whites, the barrel-fermented Guru, sourced from 50-year-old vines in high, cool uplands. Rich and minerally, it is composed of the Portuguese varieties Viosinho, Rabigato, Codega and Gouveio. Only about 15 percent of Douro vineyards are planted to white varieties, but that number will likely grow. In the past three years, white plantings have boomed, Borges says.

Waking a Sleeping Giant n the Alentejo, high quality winemaking has yet to reach critical mass, but ambitious vintners are drawn by its inexpensive land and fertile soils. Huge plantations and co-ops dominate here, in contrast to the small holdings that are common in the rest of Portugal. And it is hot—very hot—in the summer. Many reds are overripe, and many whites overoaked. Most of the wines produced here are for domestic consumption.

Change is stirring, however. The 1,600-acre Esporão estate, on the plains near the town of Reguengos de Monsaraz, exports 65 percent of its production, with a big portion going to the United States. It has long been one of the region’s leaders. The winery was started in 1973 by a branch of the Roquette family (of Quinta do

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“PEOPLE ARE NOW ASKING FOR PORTUGUESE WINE. THE CHANGE HAS B E E N D R A M AT I C A N D Q U I T E R E M A R K A B L E . ” — SOP HIA B E R G Q V I S T

Crasto), and has built its success on varietals and blends of native Portuguese grapes, along with bottlings of international varieties such as Syrah, Petit Verdot and Sémillon.

Australian David Baverstock oversees the cellars, and he has long favored straight-arrow winemaking techniques—most notably stainless-steel fermentation and extended oak aging for the top reds and whites. But recent experiments, spearheaded by his

Galicia province. The name of the site is Salão Frio, or “cold place” in Portuguese, and she leases its 5 acres from a local grower. Its small, bush-trained vines are rooted in a vineyard higher than 2,000 feet in altitude, above the torrid plains. “To me, this is Portalegre, not Alentejo, but it is very, very small.” Harvest here comes six weeks later than at lower altitudes, and along with that come fresher flavors and crisper structures.

I taste the 2013 Procura white, which offers mouthfilling notes of apricot, citrus and peach that are well-spiced. Even more impressive is a Procura red from 2011, rich and intense, with delicate flavors of cherry and graphite. It’s a mix of 40 percent Alicante Bouschet, the red grape most identified with Alentejo.

Esteban first came to Portugal in 1999 and worked at Quinta do Crasto until 2007. Propitiously, 1999 was also the year that Jorge Moreira, Sandra Tavares and Jorge Borges began their winemaking careers. Two years earlier, Xito Olazabal took over at Vale Meão.

“We are still friends, and we are all very close because we didn’t know anyone else [in wine] back then,” Esteban says.

The Future Is Now hose friendships have proven to be the ties that bind, helping to build the new wines of Portugal and portending many more exciting bottlings to come. It’s indicative of the New World energy exploding in this Old World winemaking nation. And despite the clash of tradition and modernity, a greater role for Portugal on the world winemaking stage seems assured.

Whether Portuguese wines become sought-after in their own right rather than as curiosities remains to be seen. But the tide may be turning, assisted by the high quality of the 2011 vintage and the ensuing word of mouth that’s so important in setting wine industry trends.

“My brother, Philip, who works the U.S.A. market for [Quinta de la Rosa], has just got back from a trip and says that people are now asking for Portuguese wine. The change has been dramatic and quite remarkable in the past six months,” says Sophia Bergqvist, owner of Quinta de la Rosa.

“There is a real buzz to Portugal at last,” she adds.

Portugal still faces many hurdles. The sheer complexity of its terroirs, the distinctiveness of its wines and the multitude of grape varieties grown all present both assets and challenges that its vintners must face, mostly on their own. There’s not much government support, and although some vintners have organized to get the word out, too many remain passive. All of this is set against the backdrop of a national economy that has been caught in the maelstrom of the wider European financial crisis, promoting despair and risk aversion.

Yet risk they must. The Portuguese proudly point out that Lisbon is the closest European capital to North America. They constitute a nation 40 years removed from a repressive dictatorial regime and are still reveling in their hard-won freedoms. But they face the Atlantic with an open spirit, ready to introduce the wine world to a new age of discovery.

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Spanish grapegrower Susana Esteban strives for vibrant and fresh wines with her Procura winery, situated in the Alentejo region in south-central Portugal.

Portuguese winemaking staff, are showing impressive results. Fermentations in large amphorae are resulting in intensely juicy and floral reds. Two years ago, Esporão’s first lagares were built, but instead of granite they’re made from the region’s white marble.

Near the city of Portalegre, in the far northeastern reaches of the Alentejo, Spain-born vintner Susana Esteban is pursuing her own vision of what the region’s wines should be: clean, fresh and vibrant-tasting. Procura, which means “search” in Portuguese, is the name of her label, and she’s looking for undiscovered sites that deliver high quality grapes from native varieties.

Today, she shows me one such spot. It’s a 60-year-old mixed planting of Fernão Pires, Arinto and Moscatel. “This reminds me of Bierzo, in Spain—with granite-based mountains and vineyards in the middle of nothing,” says Esteban, who is from Spain’s ąĀ N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

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Kim Marcus’ Recommended Wines From Portugal The following wines are recent releases selected by managing editor Kim Marcus on the basis of quality, price and characteristics representative of Portugal’s diverse and evolving winemaking industry. All wines were blind-tasted in Wine Spectator’s New York office.

RED SCORE WINE

PRICE

98 Wine & Soul Douro Pintas 2011

$100

SCORE WINE

PRICE

92 Quinta de Chocapalha Lisboa CH 2010

$55

97 Prats & Symington Douro Chryseia 2011

$55

91 CARM Douro Reserva 2011

$22

97 Quinta do Vale Meão Douro 2011

$76

91 Susana Esteban Alentejo Procura 2012

$50

91 Quinta de Lemos Dão Dona Santana 2009

$25

95 Quinta de la Rosa Douro La Rosa Reserva 2011

$53

91 Quinta da Romaneira Douro 2011

$45

94 Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva Old Vines 2012

$49

91 Rozès Douro Terras do Grifo Red 2012

$17

94 Lemos & van Zeller Douro Quinta Vale D. Maria Vinha da Francisca 2012

$90

91 Sogrape Douro Callabriga 2010

$16 $13

93 Duorum Douro O. Leucura Cota 200 Reserva 2008

90 João Portugal Ramos Alentejo Ramos Reserva 2012 $90

$16

93 Lemos & van Zeller Douro Van Zellers Red 2012

90 Symington Family Douro Altano Quinta do Ataíde 2012

$45

89 Caves Aliança Douro Foral 2012

$9

93 Quinta do Noval Douro 2011

$93

$13

93 Quinta do Passadouro Touriga Nacional Douro 2012

89 Dow Douro Vale do Bomfim 2012

$40

89 Susana Esteban Alentejo Red Aventura 2013

$18

93 Poeira Douro 2011

$80

$18

93 Quinta do Vesuvio Douro 2011

89 Terroir de Origem Douro Tom de Baton 2011

$74

87 Lavradores de Feitoria Douro 2012

$10

96 Quinta do Crasto Douro Vinha da Ponte 2012

$160

92 Quinta das Bandeiras Vinhos Douro Passagem Reserva 2011 $25

WH IT E SCORE WINE

PRICE

SCORE WINE

PRICE

93 Lemos & van Zeller Douro VZ Van Zellers White 2013

$45

89 Cortes de Címa Alentejo Chaminé White 2013

$12

92 Wine & Soul Douro White Guru 2013

$45

89 Real Companhia Velha Douro Evel White 2013

$13

91 Poeira Duriense White 2013

$45

89 Quinta de Santiago Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2012

$19

91 Quinta do Vallado Douro White Reserva 2013

$50

88 Quinta do Crasto Douro White 2013

$20

90 Herdade do Esporão Alentejo White Private Selection 2012

$27

88 Lavradores de Feitoria Douro White 2013

$10

90 Quanta Terra Douro White Grande Reserva 2013

$27

88 Quintas de Melgaço Alvarinho Vinho Verde QM 2013

$23

90 Real Companhia Velha Douro Porca de Murça White Reserva 2013

$18

88 João Portugal Ramos Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2014

$20

90 Quinta de la Rosa Douro dou Rosa White 2013

$15

$11

90 Vadio Bairrada White 2013

87 Fiuza & Bright Alvarinho Tejo 2014

$18

87 Muxagat Vinhos Douro White 2012

$25

89 Casa Ferreirinha Douro White Planalto Reserva 2013

$15

$8

89 Álvaro Castro Encruzado Dão Reserva 2012

87 João Portugal Ramos Loureiro Vinho Verde Lima 2014

$33

86 Aveleda Loureiro-Alvarinho Minho Quinta da Aveleda 2013

$9

87 Casa Santos Lima Lisboa Lab White 2013

$9

PO RT AN D M ADEIRA SCORE WINE

99 Dow Vintage Port 2011

PRICE

$82

SCORE WINE

PRICE

94 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port 2012

$66

98 Fonseca Vintage Port 2011

$116

93 Blandy’s Malmsey Madeira 1996

$50/500ml

98 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port Nacional 2011

$650

93 Churchill Late Bottled Port 2005

$29

98 Quinta do Vale Meão Vintage Port 2011

$60

93 Delaforce Vintage Port 2011

$70

97 Cockburn Vintage Port 2011

$75

93 Graham Tawny Port 20 Year Old NV

$60

97 Croft Vintage Port 2011

$93

93 Taylor Fladgate Tawny Port 20 Year Old NV

97 Sandeman Vintage Port 2011

$80

93 Quinta do Vallado Vintage Port Adelaide 2012

97 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2011

$55 $110

92 Cálem Late Bottled Port 2007

$17

96 Graham Vintage Port 2011

$98

92 Ferreira Port Dona Antonia Reserve NV

$22

96 Vinhos Oscar Quevedo Vintage Port 2011

$80

92 Niepoort Port Colheita 1986

$79

95 Niepoort Vintage Port 2011

$95

92 Warre Tawny Port 20 Year Old NV

$56

$116

95 Royal Oporto Tawny Port 40 Year Old NV

$140

91 Smith Woodhouse Late Bottled Port Unfiltered 2002

$33

94 Blandy’s Bual Madeira 1969

$230

90 Madeira Wine Company Madeira Miles Finest Rainwater Medium Dry NV

$17

89 Christie’s Port White Port Butler Nephew & Co 10 Year Old NV

$32

94 Poças Junior Vintage Port 2011 94 Ramos-Pinto Tawny Port RP 30 Years NV

$75 $105

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Lisbon’s N E W DAWN T H E P O R T U G U E S E C A P I TA L E M E R G E S A S ONE OF EUROPE’S HOT SPOTS FOR WINING A N D D I N I N G ƫ đ ƫ BY R O B ERT CAMUTO

oday Portugal is the stage for one of the world’s most dynamic wine scenes—but that’s only part of the story. Portuguese terroir is booming beyond vineyards and wine, with other produce and the creativity and modern techniques of a handful of innovators helping to transform the nation’s lively capital of Lisbon into an exciting culinary destination.

T

P H O T O GR A PH S B Y J AM E S R AJ O TTE At Belcanto, in Lisbon’s Chiado neighborhood, amuses bouches combine traditional ingredients in inventive presentations.

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Lisbon is so naturally positioned to be a gastronomic center, one wonders why it didn’t happen sooner. Located at the mouth of the Rio Tejo (Tagus River), on the Atlantic Ocean in southern Portugal, Lisbon was the departure point for 15th-century Portuguese explorers. Portuguese ships returned home with not only gold but also culinary treasures such as potatoes and tomatoes, tea and coffee, coriander and curry.

Lisbon cooks have long been practitioners of fusion, blending elements from the old empire, which stretched from Brazil to Goa, with southern Portugal’s own larder.

Lisbon cuisine is nourished by the vast breadbasket of the Alentejo region, from east of the city to the Spanish border. In addition to producing high quality wine corks, Alentejo is known for some of Portugal’s most prized foods, including sheep cheeses, black pork, deep-green olive oils, wild mushrooms and asparagus.

Couple such bounty with wines from 29 appellations, and Portugal is now an epicurean El Dorado. Yet it can be considered Europe’s late bloomer, one of the last to discover and unleash its culinary potential. A major obstacle was the dictatorship that stifled Portugal and its capital for most of the 20th century. Though the old regime was toppled in 1974, years of instability and a weak economy followed.

The past decade has brought new investment and life to Lisbon, and that has helped reshape not only neglected parts of the city, but the dining scene as well.

“We always had very good, high quality products—wine, cheese, olive oil, meat, fish and shellfish. I believe we have the best fish and shellfish in the world,” says Portuguese culinary star José Avillez, whose credits include four modern Lisbon restaurants, a TV cooking show and a pair of Michelin stars at his flagship Belcanto. “But then food became a center of attention and there was an evolution. Portuguese chefs are modernizing the classic dishes, and that is definitely making Portuguese cuisine more visible.”

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Indeed, from wine bar to white tablecloth, from new interpretations of comfort food to the avant garde, there’s a dynamism to Lisbon’s evolving food-and-wine scene, and at some of Europe’s best prices. Bottles of wine in restaurants vary from $15 bargains to classics costing more than $300.

Lisbon’s traditions coexist with its new dining excitement. The national dish, bacalhau, or salted cod, still finds its way onto just about every restaurant menu, if often with a modern twist. Tiny old downtown shops still sell shots of homemade ginjinha, the traditional sweetened, cherry-infused alcohol, all day long. City bakeries produce millions of the revered pastéis de nata, the custard tarts first sold by monks evicted from Lisbon’s Jerónimos Monastery during the Liberal Revolution almost 200 years ago. Another prominent tradition is found in the culinary staples of wheat- or chicken-based sausages, invented by Jewish families to hide their ethnicity during the Inquisition.

One of the most striking symbols of the new Lisbon is the Mercado da Ribeira, the city’s covered market, situated in a grand,

SIVAN ASKAYO; MAP: HENRY ENG

Although Lisbon’s transportaton system offers everything from cable cars to subways, the city is best enjoyed on leisurely strolls through its characterful neighborhoods.

19th-century building west of the bustling downtown in what had been a largely dilapidated neighborhood. Last year, one of the marketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main halls was transformed into an airy, modern food court, with satellite restaurants, artisanal food shops, bakeries and the Garrafeira Nacional wineshop, which offers eye-opening bottlings such as Quinta do Crasto Douro Vinha Maria Teresa 2011 by the glass ($17).

Lisbon is a year-round city, with one of the mildest climates in Europe and summer weather that extends from May through October. Locals are unfailingly friendly, and most speak some English. Though taxis are affordable and there is a developed public transportation system featuring everything from cable cars to subways, this is a walkersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; town of monuments and neighborhoods that merits being explored leisurely over the course of a few days.

Much of the city was destroyed in a 1755 earthquake, but Lisbonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stylish downtown neighborhoods, such as Chiado, feature an impressive array of 18th-century architecture, built in the aftermath.

Alfama, a poor fishermanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quarter spared by the earthquake, is the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest neighborhood. Its narrow, winding streets are home to restaurants and taverns where you can end the night listening to Portugalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s national music, the sweet but melancholy fado, accompanied by a glass of fine Port.

Note: We recommend contacting restaurants in advance to confirm hours of operation and/or any closures. When calling the following establishments from North America, dial 011 and then the telephone number. Prices in this story have been converted to U.S. dollars using the exchange rate at press time ($1 equals 0.89 euro) and rounded to the nearest dollar. In the listings below, restaurants accept all major credit cards unless otherwise indicated.

W H E R E TO E AT & D R I N K Belcanto Largo de SĂŁo Carlos, 10 Telephone 351-21342-0607 Website www.belcanto.pt/enâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;Open Lunch and dinner, Tuesday to Saturdayâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;Cost EntrĂŠes $47; tasting menus $101â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$163 AfjÂ&#x201E; 8m`cc\q# *,# dXp Y\ Gfikl^XcĂ&#x2039;j dfjk jb`cc\[ Xe[ `dX^`eXk`m\ Z_\]% @e )'() k_`j ]fid\i gifkÂ&#x201E;^Â&#x201E; f] dfc\ZlcXi$Zl`j`e\ ^lil =\iiXe 8[i`~ iX`j\[ k_\ ZflekipĂ&#x2039;j ^Xjkif$ efd`Z YXi n_\e _\ fg\e\[ 9\cZXekf `e k_\ Z_`Z :_`X[f e\`^_Yfi_ff[% J\k `e Xe \c\$ ^Xek# nff[$gXe\c\[ (0,'j$\iX d\eĂ&#x2039;j ZclY Xe[ efn Y\Xi`e^ knf D`Z_\c`e jkXij# 9\c$ ZXekf ZfdY`e\j ]cXmfij Xe[ m`jlXcj ]fi [\Z$ X[\ek Zlc`eXip k_\Xk\i% GcXp]lc Xdlj\j YflZ_\j `eZcl[\ X gfg$ `e$pfli$dflk_ fiXe^\ YXcc f] n_`k\ kXnep Gfik jliifle[\[ Yp Z_`cc\[ ZfZfX Ylkk\i% 8m`cc\qĂ&#x2039;j m\ij`fe f] X =\ii\if IfZ_\i Zfe$ ]\Zk`fe `j dX[\ n`k_ ]f`\ ^iXj Xe[ \[`Yc\ ^fc[% 8 jZlcgkliXc j`^eXkli\ jkXik\i ZXcc\[ Ă&#x2C6;nXm\ Yi\Xb`e^Ă&#x2030; j\kj X j\Xj`[\ jZ\e\ `e X Zljkfd$dX[\ Z\iXd`Z [`j_2 j\XnXk\i ]fXd nXj_\j X j\c\Zk`fe f] j_i`dg# Y`mXcm\j Xe[ j\Xn\\[ fe X Ă&#x2C6;jXe[Ă&#x2030; f] [i`\[ dlj_iffdj% Ă&#x2C6;JlZbc`e^ g`^ i\m`j`k\[Ă&#x2030; `j X jdXcc Ylk jXk$ `j]p`e^ gfik`fe f] Zfd]fik ]ff[# X jhlXi\ f] k\e[\i Zffb\[ d\Xk klZb\[ Y\kn\\e k_`e# Yifne\[ j_\\kj f] gfib i`e[ Xe[ ^cXq\[ n`k_ X jg`Zp g\gg\i jXlZ\% @k Zfd\j n`k_ dfi\ gXcXk\$\ogXe[`e^ ]cXmfij `e k_\ ]fidj f] X gffc f] fiXe^\ Zi\Xd# YcXZb ZXiXd\c$ `q\[ ^Xic`Z Xe[ _flj\$dX[\ gfkXkf Z_`gj `e Xe \[`Yc\ YX^% Ă&#x2C6;?Xm\ pfl \m\i ki`\[ Gfikl^l\j\ I`\j$ c`e^6Ă&#x2030; k_\ jfdd\c`\i Xjbj n_`c\ gfli`e^ X Zfdgc`d\ekXip ^cXjj f] ]i\j_# ifle[ Hl`ekX [fj K\idfj I`\jc`e^ I\j\imX )'() *0 % Dfi\ k_Xe *'' Gfikl^l\j\ n`e\j [fd`eXk\ k_\ c`jk# c\[ Yp Hl`ekX [f MXc\ D\Â f ;flif )'() (0- Xe[ GiXkj Jpd$

Chef JosĂŠ Avillez and sommelier Nuno Oliveira e Silva of Belcanto

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CafĂŠ de SĂŁo Bento Rua de SĂŁo Bento, 212 Telephone 351-21-3952911 Website en.cafesaobento.comâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;Open Lunch, Monday to Friday; dinner, dailyâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;Cost EntrĂŠes $19â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$26 K_\i\Ă&#x2039;j efk_`e^ ki\e[p XYflk k_`j jdXcc# nff[$gXe\c\[ jk\Xb _flj\# n_`Z_ fg\e\[ dfi\ k_Xe *' p\Xij X^f XZifjj ]ifd k_\ Gfikl^l\j\ GXic`Xd\ek% Knf i\[$ XZZ\ek\[ iffdj k_\ [fnejkX`ij `j fe\ f] fecp X ]\n [`e`e^ iffdj `e C`jYfe n_\i\ jdfb`e^ `j g\id`kk\[ \ol[\ k_\ XliX f] X d\e$fecp ZclY ]ifd Xefk_\i \iX% JÂ f 9\ekf jlZZ\\[j Yp [f`e^ knf k_`e^jĂ&#x2021;d\Xk Xe[ gfkXkf\jĂ&#x2021;i\Xccp# i\Xccp n\cc% K_\ Z_f`Z\ _\i\ `j j`dgc\1 jk\Xb# jk\Xb fi jk\XbĂ&#x2021;n\cc$X^\[# k\e[\i Zlkj gXe$j\Xi\[ kf g\i]\Zk`fe% J\c\Zk j`icf`e fi ]`c\k d`^efe `e fe\ f] k_i\\ jkpc\j1 ^i`cc\[ `e Ylkk\i2 Gfikl^l\j\ jkpc\# `e fc`m\ f`c n`k_ ^Xic`Z jc`Z\j Xe[ YXp c\X]2 fi `e k_\ kiX[`k`feXc DXiiXi\ jkpc\# `e X i`Z_ jXlZ\ f] Zi\Xd# g\g$ g\i Xe[ dljkXi[% 8cc Zfd\ n`k_ _fk# ^fc[\e gfkXkf\j# _Xe[ Zlk Xj Z_`gj fi ]i`\j% Klie [`i\Zkcp kf k_\ i\[ n`e\ j\Zk`fe f] k_\ +'$cXY\c# gi\[fd`eXekcp Gfikl^l\j\

CafĂŠ de SĂŁo Bento specializes in steaks and hand-cut potatoes.

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Cantinho do Avillez Rua Dos Duques de Bragança, 7 Telephone 351-21-1992369 Website cantinhodoavillez.ptâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;Open Daily, lunch and dinnerâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;Cost EntrĂŠes $19â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$44 Cantinho d\Xej effb fi Zfie\i# Xe[ k_`j knf$p\Xi$ fc[ Y`jkif n_\i\ Z_\] AfjÂ&#x201E; 8m`cc\q i\Zfi[j _`j n\\bcp k\c\m`j`fe gif^iXd# Combinaçþes ImprovĂĄveis (Unlikely Combinations # j_fnj _`j ZXjlXc j`[\% N`k_ `kj Z\d\ek ]cffij# gXg\i gcXZ\ j\kk`e^j Xe[ ]ff[ j\im\[ `e _fd\p \eXd\cnXi\ fi ZXjk$`ife jb`cc\kj# :Xek`e_f `j X Zflekip$jkpc\ ]f`c kf 8m`cc\qĂ&#x2039;j liYXe\ 9\cZXekf% ?\i\# X pfle^\i Zifn[ \eafpj j`dgc\ Ylk jlg\iY Y`jkif Zl`$ j`e\ k_Xk ]lj\j Gfikl^l\j\ kiX[`k`fe n`k_ X[m\ekli$ flj ^cfYXc kflZ_\j% :cXjj`Z Gfikl^l\j\ jk\Xb jXe[n`Z_\j Xe[ X Yli^\i f] 9Xiifj Y\\] kfgg\[ n`k_ ZXiXd\c`q\[ fe`fej Xe[ ]f`\ ^iXj j_Xi\ k_\ d\el n`k_ Gfikl^Xc jflk_$ZfXjk giXnej `e K_X` j\Xjfe`e^% K_\ Z_\]Ă&#x2039;j XmXek$^Xi[\ ]`i\$ nfibj je\Xb `ekf [`j_\j jlZ_ Xj kiX[`k`feXc ]cXb\[ Zf[ kfgg\[ n`k_ Yi\X[ZildYj Xe[ Ă&#x2C6;\ogcf[`e^ fc`m\jĂ&#x2030;Ă&#x2021; ^\c jg_\i\j ]`cc\[ n`k_ X kXe^p jXlZ\ f] Yc\e[\[ ^i\\e fc`m\j% K_\ Gfikl^Xc$[fd`eXk\[ n`e\ c`jk f] XYflk /' j\c\Zk`fej ^iflgj n`e\j XZZfi[`e^ kf Zfdgc\o`kp Xe[ Yf[p% =lcc$Yf[`\[ i\[j `eZcl[\ ;li_Xd$8^i\ccfjĂ&#x2039; n\cc$ YXcXeZ\[ DXibX Kfli`^X EXZ`feXc )'(* ,( Xe[ Hl`ekX [X IfdXe\`iX ;flif )''0 +, %

Enoteca de BelĂŠm BOTTOM: COURTESY OF ENOTECA DE BELĂ&#x2030;M

Travessa Marta Pinto, 10 Telephone 351-21-3631511â&#x20AC;&#x201A;Open Lunch and dinner, Tuesday to Sundayâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;Cost EntrĂŠes $17â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$20 Ă&#x2C6;DXp @ j\\ k_\ n`e\ c`jk6Ă&#x2030; `j X hl\jk`fe k_Xk \c`Z`kj X efm\c i\jgfej\ Xk k_`j df[\ie# j\m\e$kXYc\ n`e\ YXi klZb\[ `ekf Xe Xcc\p e\Xi k_\ ^Xi[\ej f] 9\cÂ&#x201E;d% K_\ nX`k\i _Xe[j pfl X gX`i f] Y`efZlcXij kf jkl[p k_\ cX$ Y\cj f] -' Gfikl^l\j\ jdXcc$gif[lZ\i Yfkkc`e^j k_Xk

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Enoteca de BelĂŠm offers small-producer bottlings and wine-friendly plates.

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Restaurante 100 Maneiras features a market-driven nine-course menu.

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Frade dos Mares Avenue Dom Carlos I, 55A Telephone 351-21-3909418 Website www.fradedos mares.comâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;Open Lunch, Monday to Friday; dinner, Monday to Saturdayâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;Cost EntrĂŠes $16â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$22â&#x20AC;&#x201A;Credit cards Visa, MasterCard

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RESTAURANT AWARD WINNERS IN PORTUGAL Wine Spectator award levels: The Award of Excellence denotes wine lists that offer a well-chosen mix of producers. The Best of Award of Excellence honors lists of greater breadth. The Grand Award is given to restaurants that show uncompromising devotion to their wine programs.

FORTALEZA DO GUINCHO Fortaleza Do Guincho, Estrada Do Guincho, Cascais; 351-21-487-0491 Sommelier Inacio Loureiro Wine strengths Portugal, Bordeaux Wine selections 800 Wine prices Moderate Cuisine French Menu prices Prix fixe $100

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IL GALLO Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ORO The Cliff Bay, Estrada Monumental 147, Funchal, Madeira; 351-29-170-7707

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Vila Vita Parc & Spa, Rua Anneliese Pohz, Alporchinhos, 8400-450 Porches, Algarve; 351-28231-0100 Sommelier Nelson Marreiros Wine strengths Portugal, Bordeaux Wine selections 600 Wine prices Expensive Cuisine French/ Portuguese Menu prices Prix fixe $105â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$280

RESTAURANTE DOP Largo de SĂŁo Domingos 18, Porto; 351-22-2014313 Wine director SĂŠrgio Pereira Wine strengths Portugal, Port, Champagne Wine selections 600 Wine prices Moderate Cuisine Modern Portuguese Menu prices $50â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$100

ROMANDO

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Rua da Fonte 221, Areia-Ă rvore, Vila do Conde; 351-25-264-1075 Wine director Nelson Pena Wine strengths Portugal, Spain Wine selections 1,700 Wine prices Moderate Cuisine Portuguese Menu prices $30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$40

THE YEATMAN

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Rua do Choupelo, Vila Nova de Gaia; 351-22-0133100 Wine director Beatriz Machado Wine strengths Portugal Wine selections 1,365 Corkage $26 Cuisine Portuguese Menu prices $40â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$59

@@@ Grand Award @@ Best of Award of Excellence @ Award of Excellence

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CALIFORNIA’S A SLEEK 2013 CHARDONNAYS

BY JAMES LAUBE

vintage with verve. That’s what sets apart the 2013 harvest for California Chardonnay. Typically one of the Golden State’s steadiest and most reliable wines year in, year out, Chardonnay delivers not only another strong vintage with 2013, but a highly distinctive one as well.

The reason is phenolics. This group of compounds, which are part of the same chemical family as tannins, impart a pithy citrus or Asian pear skin texture, and California winemakers say they figure strongly in the 2013 Chardonnays.

Certainly the qualities attributed to phenolics are evident in many of the wines. This is a good

PHOTOGRAPH BY STEPHEN DEVRIES ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 55

TASTING REPORT

|

CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY

Sac ram ent oR ive r

With the lion’s share of the 2013s yet to be released, 2012 is worth paying attention to right now, especially coming on the heels of the difficult 2011 vintage. The Sterling Napa Valley Reserve 2012 (94 points on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale, $55), for example, may be the best Chardonnay ever made at this landmark Napa winery, which is staging a nice comeback in quality across its lineup. In a sign of the overall reliability of the category, however, even 2011 managed to produce some stylish wines, including one of this report’s top-scorers, the Mount Eden Vineyards Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains 2011 (95, $60).

Many producers have both the 2012 and 2013 vintages for sale, and in terms of overall quality, it’s a dead heat between them.

Though many 2013s reach the top tier, this report’s other highest-rated wines are all 2012s: the Peter Michael Knights Valley Born in Colombia and trained in France, Bibiana González Rave has made a home in Sonoma, crafting high quality Point Rouge (97, $185); Shibumi Knoll Chardonnays at her Cattleya Wines. Her outstanding 2013 was sourced from Russian River Valley’s Pratt Vineyard.

Russian River Valley Buena Tierra Vineyard (96, $70); Kongsgaard Napa Valley The Judge (95, $175); and marker for ageability and a useful indicator in deciding whether to Boars’ View Sonoma Coast (95, $125), a new wine from Fred and cellar. Chardonnays age very well for three to five years, and the Carol Schrader in the Fort Ross–Seaview appellation. wines’ edgier traits become rounder and smoother over time.

With the 2013 vintage, the cream of the crop are almost all Since my last report (“California Chardonnay’s Big Easy,” July vineyard-specific bottlings from top sites. They stand out for their 31, 2014), I have reviewed nearly 500 new releases in our Napa taut, dense and distinctive styles, ranging from trimmer, flintier office, more than half of them from 2013. The remainder are mostly versions, with minerally, gravelly notes, to bolder, more expressive from the 2012 vintage, whose record-size, slow-ripening crop and opulent renditions that stray into tropical flavors. Not to be yielded excellent wines as well. This means that deoutdone, the wines in the second tier show uncommon depth spite stylistic differences between the two vintages, and purity. Though a cut below in quality, these wines the overall quality of the wines covered in this California’s won’t disappoint, especially at their price points, report is consistently high. (A free alphabetical Major which are slightly lower as well. list of scores and prices for all wines tasted is Among the highest-rated wines, Napa-based Jarvis available at www.winespectator.com/073115.)

Chardonnay Estate made three outstanding 2013s, each rating 92 If winemakers could channel their thoughts Districts points: the Napa Valley ($64), Napa Valley Finch into one voice regarding 2013, it would sound Hollow ($115) and Napa Valley Finch Hollow Unfilsomething like this: This is a special vintage, Mendocino tered ($130). Lobo Wines made the Napa Valley Wulff whose even growing season and smaller, Vineyards 2013 (92, $60) from a vineyard that often goes drought-induced crop—yielding smaller berSonoma into bottlings from Lewis Cellars. And Saxon Brown’s Jeff ries, higher acidities and deep concentration— Napa Gaffner followed up his many successes in 2012 with outproduced a unique group of wines.

Carneros SAN standing 2013 Chardonnays under his own boutique “2013 is a vintage that I would describe as both FRANCISCO Etre label—the Sonoma Coast (93, $28)—and for exhilarating and uneventful at the same time,” Black Kite, the Sonoma Coast Gap’s Crown Vinesays Bibiana González Rave of Cattleya Wines in DFEK<I<P BAY yard (93, $45) and Santa Lucia Highlands SoberSonoma. “Mother Nature always has events. It’s anes Vineyard (90, $45). just that they were not so extreme this year.”

“2013 has many of the hallmarks of a great The beauty of California Chardonnay is that you vintage,” says Mark Aubert, who turned out can drink well across a wide spectrum of prices. As Central seven highly rated Chardonnays from summer arrives, Chardonnay becomes the go-to white Coast vineyards throughout Sonoma and Napa. for many wine drinkers. The onset of warm weather “Our Chards have the same richness and and the desire for something clean, fruity and refreshing Santa Barbara ripeness as previous vintages, but with a can easily be met by this versatile grape. The 2013 vinhigher natural acid content. Therefore I tage is awash with good values at $25 or less, and if you’re E have the best of both worlds, meaning these seeking richer, fuller wines, the sleepers are the 2012s, many 0 miles 100 LOS wines will age for a long, long time without of which are still being released or working their way to market.

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ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 57

a doubt. And to further matters, 2012, including this report’s the juice yields were 10 percent top-rated wine (the 97-point higher than in 2012, which estate-bottled Point Rouge), equals more of a good thing to Morlet oversaw four outstandgo around.” ing 2013 Chardonnays.

Yet many of the winemakers “Our 2013s display a lot of I spoke with didn’t experience floral characteristics—white higher yields; they describe 2013 vine rose, jasmine—and with as a smaller crop of superior qualsome notes of greengage plum, ity. Ted Lemon of Littorai, for mineral elements and bright example, shares that perspective acidity, in addition to the clasbased on the wines he made from sic aromatic profiles of our both Sonoma and Anderson ValChardonnay wines,” Morlet ley. “The 2013 Chardonnays are says. “The wines are very wellleaner and more racy than the balanced, with gras, finesse, 2012s, closer in style to 2008 and bright natural acidity, mineral 2009, both of which are among and a lingering finish.” In our latter-day favorites,” says short, he says, “They vibrate.”

Lemon. “The 2012s showed Part of Chardonnay’s appeal more richness at this stage of for many vintners is that higher their development, whereas the production levels are easier to acidity and a steely purity domiachieve, and that in turn helps nate the palate on the 2013s. to hold prices in check. In adWhat makes the latter fascinatdition, by avoiding French oak, ing is that there is a muscular winemakers eliminate the cost dimension to the wines.” of new barrels, and pure, juicy, Lemon adds that the higher refreshing Chardonnays can be levels of phenolics in the 2013s, Chardonnay grapes are sorted at Peter Michael Winery in Sonoma’s remote Knights Valley produced at affordable prices. which can give them the kind of district. The estate made this report’s top-rated wine, from the excellent 2012 vintage.

Consider Rombauer, which mouthfeel you get from a tangermade 100,000 cases of its 2013 ine or pink grapefruit, might not be a trait everyone appreciates, but Carneros bottling, a 93-point wine that costs $36. Another seven it is a good sign for the wines. “We believe that a gentle phenolic wines in this report earned outstanding marks of 90 points or higher presence can be a very good thing in white wines, and these wines and cost $25 or less—including bottlings from Calera, Lafond, have that,” he says. “We recently left bottles of each of the wines Meiomi and Rodney Strong—and at less than $20, there are open and unprotected for several days in the family kitchen and they 88-point bottlings from Buehler, Edna Valley, Robert Mondavi and Sterling. Smoking Loon, Four Vines, Fetzer and Layer Cake even just got better and better. So we encourage [consumers] not to be in offer very good quality at $12 or less. a rush to try them when they are shipped. Give them a chance to If you’re a Chardonnay lover, or looking for a complex, refreshing rest for several months. Expect these to age very well.” white for the hotter weather, this is the right time to get in the hunt.

For Nick Morlet, winemaker at Peter Michael Winery in Sonoma’s Knights Valley, the 2013 vintage will be hard to top.

Senior editor James Laube is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on California Following on the heels of Peter Michael’s excellent showing in Chardonnay.

Rating California Chardonnay Vintages in Major Regions Santa Carneros Napa Barbara* Sonoma 2013

90-93

90–93

85–88

90–93

2012

90

94

88

93

Ideal growing season; wines are intense, with pure, ripe, vibrant flavors

2011

86

89

85

87

Cool and damp, challenging everywhere; best wines are elegant and scaled back

2010

88

92

87

92

Cool year resulted in uneven quality; best wines are tight and concentrated

2009

90

94

91

95

Cooler year showing toned-down ripeness, with more finesse and delicacy

2008

87

92

86

91

Frost and fire didn’t spoil the vintage, though quality is variable; tight, concentrated wines

2007

96

95

89

96

Ripe, complex, balanced and ageworthy wines; many brilliant bottles from all appellations

*Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez Valley AVAs Note: Most California Chardonnays are ready to drink upon release.

A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling; many wines of the vintage not yet reviewed.

Vintage ratings: 95-100, classic; 90-94, outstanding; 85-89, very good; 80-84, good; 75-79, mediocre; 50-74, not recommended

58 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

M. J. WICKHAM

An exceptional year, distinct for vibrancy and density; ageworthy

TASTING REPORT

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CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY

James Laube’s Recommended California Chardonnays Nearly 500 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at www.winespectator.com/073115.

WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.

TOP WINES WINE

TOP WINES (continued) SCORE

PRICE

WINE

PETER MICHAEL Chardonnay Knights Valley Point Rouge 2012 97

$185

KISTLER Chardonnay Sonoma Mountain 2013

Zeros in on a smooth, rich core of flavors, giving this a brilliant range of fruit. Chardonnay doesn’t get much better.

SHIBUMI KNOLL Chardonnay Russian River Valley

SCORE

PRICE

93

$65

93

$64

93

$50

93

$36

93

$60

93

$50

SCORE

PRICE

90

$20

90

$23

90

$22

89

$22

89

$20

88

$16

88

$15

88

$12

88

$18

88

$19

88

$9

Pure and focused, offering a vivid core of white peach, nectarine and tangerine, with tangy acidity and a chalky, minerally edge.

96

$70

RAM’S GATE Chardonnay Russian River Valley

Buena Tierra Vineyard 2012

Ulises Valdez-Diablo Vineyard 2012

A dazzling effort, offering purity, richness, focus and plump, silky texture. Oozes with fresh fruit aromatics and rich flavors.

Rich and layered, with white peach, green apple, pear and subtle oaky butterscotch notes that give this a supple texture.

BOARS’ VIEW Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2012

95

$125

A creamy, fleshy style with rich flavors and fresh acidity. Subtle tangerine, nectarine and green fig fold in gracefully.

KONGSGAARD Chardonnay Napa Valley The Judge 2012

A rich, full-bodied style, with smoky oak wrapped around a core of vibrant green apple, pear, honeydew and subtle citrus shadings.

95

$175

Ultrarich, this shows what oak can add to a wine, brimming with hints of butterscotch, ripe pear, fig, tangerine and nectarine.

MOUNT EDEN Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains 2011

95

$60

94

$90

94

$85

94

$75

Rich and creamy, both in flavor and texture, with tiers of ripe fig, honeydew, apricot and light smoky, toasty oak.

TOP VALUES

Offers a broad, rich array of flavors, from pear, peach, tangerine, fig and honeydew to subtle vanilla-scented oak and nutmeg.

MARCASSIN Chardonnay Sonoma Coast

Presents a tight beam of rich green apple, pear and citrus flavors that are juicy and vibrant, pure and persistent.

WHETSTONE Chardonnay Carneros Jon Boat 2013

Combines intensity with purity of flavor, depth, focus and persistence, with a core of juicy apple, honeydew, citrus and meringue.

LEWIS Chardonnay Napa Valley Reserve 2013

TOR Chardonnay Sonoma Valley Durell Vineyard Wente Clone 2013

Richly aromatic, offering a riveting mix of peach and citrus blossom flavors, with notes of green apple and honeydew melon.

KONGSGAARD Chardonnay Napa Valley 2012

ROMBAUER Chardonnay Carneros 2013

A charming, creamy-textured style that’s deceptively complex, with vanilla oak and vibrant peach, nectarine, honeydew and apricot.

This stunning wine is deliciously rich and layered, with vibrant honeydew, honeysuckle, fig and mineral notes shaded by toasty oak.

AUBERT Chardonnay Sonoma Coast CIX 2013

ROCHIOLI Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2013

WINE

CALERA Chardonnay Central Coast 2013 94

$75

Clean, pure and juicy, with a refreshing mix of ripe pear, apple and melon shaded by a chalky minerality and long lingering finish.

Three Sisters Vineyard 2010

LAFOND Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills SRH 2013

Offering ripe citrus-lemon and apple pie flavors, this is rich and pithy in texture. Almost Chablis-like in its flinty minerality.

MINER Chardonnay Napa Valley Hudson Vineyard 2012

Engagingly rich and layered, showing off flashy toasty oak, with fig, apricot and honeydew flavors, gaining on the finish.

94

$50 MEIOMI Chardonnay Santa Barbara-Sonoma-Monterey

Rich and full-bodied, yet elegant and graceful, with perfumed aromas and delicate flavors that have a touch of oak and citrus.

SAXON BROWN Chardonnay Sonoma Coast

Counties 2013

94

$58

Showcases rich tropical fruit, with dashes of mango, marmalade and honeyed citrus that coat the palate while remaining elegant.

Durell Vineyard 2012

ACACIA Chardonnay Carneros 2013

Ultrarich and concentrated, with honey-laced apricot, fig and honeydew flavors that offer power, persistence and depth.

STERLING Chardonnay Napa Valley Reserve 2012

Pure and elegant, with juicy green apple, pear, citrus and green fig.

94

$55

BLACK KITE Chardonnay Sonoma Coast

MOUNT EDEN Chardonnay Edna Valley Wolff Vineyard 2012

Savory dried herb, peach and nectarine flavors are fresh and vibrant.

Rich and creamy, this offers gorgeous fruit, with spicy pear, lemoncitrus and a kiss of oak. Best Sterling Chardonnay in years.

BUEHLER Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2013 93

$45

Fresh grass, honeydew, honeysuckle, pear and citrus notes are elegant.

Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2013

EDNA VALLEY Chardonnay Central Coast 2013

Delightfully pure, juicy and refreshing, this version offers white peach, nectarine, tangerine and green apple flavors, with lively acidity.

ETRE Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2013

Rich and full-bodied, with fruit cocktail, pear and melon flavors.

93

$28

FAILLA Chardonnay Sonoma Valley Chuy 2012

A fresh style, with citrus-infused green apple and pineapple flavors.

93

$58

Richard Dinner Vineyard 2012

Distinctive for its rich, plush layers of ripe fig, apricot, honeydew and subtle citrus shadings. Big and assertive yet elegant.

LINCOURT Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills Steel 2013

Snappy citrus, green apple and pear flavors are juicy and elegant.

Beautifully crafted, rich and creamy-textured, with depth and finesse, showing white peach, nectarine, ginger and honeydew melon.

PAUL HOBBS Chardonnay Sonoma Mountain Cuvée Agustina

FOUR VINES Chardonnay Santa Barbara County Naked Unoaked 2013

Uncommonly fruity and very complex, with ripe, zesty citrus, fig, mango, guava and honeydew flavors. Pure, rich and persistent.

ROBERT MONDAVI Chardonnay Napa Valley 2013 93

$100

A delicate style, with white peach, citrus, green apple and spice.

SMOKING LOON Chardonnay California Steelbird Unoaked 2013

Citrus and green fruits show a zesty grapefruit edge. Refreshing.

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 59

This report’s top 2010 is a classicscoring Montosoli from Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini’s Altesino estate.

RADIANT BRUNELLO The 2010 vintage is one of the best in decades, producing ripe, vibrant and balanced Sangiovese BY BRUCE SANDERSON

V

intners in Tuscany’s Montalcino district were dealt the right cards in 2010, with growing conditions that yielded ripe, fruity Sangiovese. In turn, the year’s Brunellos reveal elegance and complexity, showing fruit flavors of strawberry, cherry and raspberry, accented by floral, tobacco and mineral elements. The young wines’ flavor profiles, along with their impeccable balance, are so compelling that it’s easy to overlook their underlying structure. But make no mistake, the top bottlings from the best harvest since 2001 have

all the components to age beautifully.

“The 2010 vintage is an easy one to talk about,” says Guido Orzalesi, sales and marketing director for Altesino, whose stunning Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli 2010 (98 points on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, $125) is the wine of the vintage.

“It is one of the vintages in which to produce a great wine you only had to be careful not to make any mistakes in the cellar, the rest being taken care of by nature.”

The weather conditions during the 2010 growing season were ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 61

The family-run estate of Casanova di Neri consistently produces highly rated Brunellos at its modern winery in Montalcino, including a pair of elegant and harmonious 2010s.

slightly atypical. Not only did the Sangiovese vines begin their development later than normal, but also veraison, when the grapes change color in August, came about a week to 10 days later than average for the past decade.

“Quite unusual was the fact that the grapes reached ripening while the vines were still in vegetation,” notes Donatella Cinelli Colombini, proprietor of her namesake estate. “It was an extremely rare but very favorable situation. In 2010, the grape clusters were small, sound, and with small grape berries with lignified seeds.”

But ideal weather during August, including enough rainfall to offset the effects of the heat and refresh the vines, advanced the development of sugar and more importantly tannins, resulting in ripe Sangiovese.

The vintage’s top Brunellos—beginning with the Altesino Montosoli, a wine that shows purity and elegance—deliver expressive cherry, strawberry, raspberry and plum fruit, with accents of herbs, eucalyptus and tobacco. The flavors are aligned to firm structures that will allow the wines to age.

On the fruity side are the Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Progetto Prime Donne (96, $65), Poggio Salvi

Brunello di Montalcino Pomona (96, $90) and Villa I Cipressi Brunello di Montalcino Zebras (96, $90). A touch more woodsy and firm, with assertive tannins, are the La Serena Brunello di Montalcino (96, $60) and Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino (96, $129), while Gaja’s Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille (96, $190) layers vanilla, coconut and sweet spice notes over black cherry and plum flavors.

These are the highlights from the more than 85 2010 Brunellos I reviewed over the past year in our New York office. With 21 wines scoring classic (95 to 100 points) and the rest outstanding, the 2010 vintage earns an overall rating of 98 points, making it one of the best vintages in the past 20 years. Another 50 late-release 2009s are also included in this report, along with a handful of 2008s and earlier vintages. (A free alphabetical list of scores and prices for all wines tasted is available at www.winespectator.com/073115.)

B

runello di Montalcino is 100 percent Sangiovese. Although the styles within the zone vary, from floral and elegant in the north to dense and muscular in the south, the high quality of the 2010 season yielded successful wines throughout the

2010

98

Perfect late summer weather resulted in ideal ripening for Sangiovese; wines are fresh, elegant, balanced and structured, with ample ripe fruit flavors. The best should age beautifully

Hold

2009

89

Warm summer gave elegant, fruity and balanced wines in the north; denser and more muscular in the south.

Bright fruit, for early enjoyment

Drink or hold

2008

91

A cool growing season with rain at harvest; those who waited produced aromatic, balanced and elegant wines

Drink or hold

2007

93

Hotter and riper than 2006; fruit-forward, rich and elegant, offering immediate charm and softer textures

Drink or hold

2006

95

Complex and powerful wines that impress with ripe yet fresh fruit, firm, dense structures and fine balance

Hold

2005

89

Rains during the harvest damped what could have been an amazing year, but still a very good vintage.

Many wines for early drinking

Drink or hold

Notable older vintages: 2004, 2001, 1999, 1997 Vintage ratings: 95-100, classic; 90-94, outstanding; 85-89, very good; 80-84, good; 75-79, mediocre; 50-74, not recommended Drinkability: “Drink” means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature.

62 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

SANDRO MICHAHELLES

RATING RECENT BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO VINTAGES

K8JK@E> I<GFIK s BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO

region. This freshness is one of the hallmarks of the vintage and one of the major factors that will allow the wines to age.

Bottlings such as the Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino (95, $85) exhibit the year’s balance and harmony, while the Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso (94, $75) and Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino (94, $50), both flirting with classic ratings, also deliver freshness and cohesion. The two southernmost estates, Col d’Orcia and Castello Banfi, made excellent 2010s as well. The former’s Brunello di Montalcino ($55), offering pure cherry and plum fruit, and the latter’s singlevineyard Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura ($90), a beefy style with dense tannins, both clock in at 93 points.

The 2010 winter brought snow and rain, building up the water supplies in the soil. Cool temperatures delayed budbreak slightly.

Sufficient moisture in the soil allowed the vines to withstand the heat during the summer. It was this groundwater that also delayed veraison, but the vines caught up in the end. Spring and summer

were normal, with enough rainfall distributed evenly, and September, an important month for the ripening of Sangiovese, was ideal.

Harvest occurred between the third week of September and the middle of October.

Good farming was also crucial to success. “I do not believe in miracles,” states Vincenzo Abbruzzese, proprietor of Valdicava.

“The 2010 harvest is the result of 43 years of work in the vineyard, in the vineyard, in the vineyard, by generations who always respected the balance of nature. The idea is not to dominate nature, but to work in a friendly way.”

Certainly, 2010 was a year in which nature, man and terroir aligned. For Brunello lovers, it’s a vintage to buy and cellar.

Perhaps Cinelli Colombini sums it up best: “The Brunello 2010 unite three virtues of Sangiovese from Montalcino: elegance, concentration and longevity.”

Senior editor Bruce Sanderson is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on the wines of Tuscany.

Bruce Sanderson’s Top-Scoring Brunellos di Montalcino More than 150 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at www.winespectator.com/073115.

WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.

WINE

ALTESINO Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli 2010

SCORE

PRICE

WINE

98

$125

LA FORTUNA Brunello di Montalcino 2010

A stunning red, showing peony, strawberry, cherry and mineral flavors. Intense and deep, with great purity and elegance.

DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI Brunello di Montalcino

96

$65

IL MARRONETO Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie 2010

Features terrific fruit, with flavors of cherry, raspberry and plum.

Well-structured, but stays balanced and precise.

Bright and pure, offering cherry, raspberry, spice and underbrush flavors, with ample tannins. Combines power and finesse.

96

$190

Sugarille 2010

96

$90

96

$60

This classy and harmonious red is elegant and intensely flavored, with strawberry, cherry, currant, mineral and tobacco notes.

LA SERENA Brunello di Montalcino 2010

96

$129

Effusive aromas of incense, green olive, sweet strawberry and cherry, licorice and leather mark this structured version.

VILLA I CIPRESSI Brunello di Montalcino Zebras 2010

96

$90

$97

Beautiful aromas of cherry, plum, tar and black pepper mesh with an elegant profile in this fresh, focused red, with plenty of cherry fruit.

SILVIO NARDI Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Doria 2010

95

$NA

SIRO PACENTI Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne 2010

95

$85

95

$70

95

$85

95

$125

95

$60

95

$70

95

$55

This brooding version is lean and sinewy in profile, with dusty, chewy tannins gripping the cherry and strawberry fruit.

PALAZZO Brunello di Montalcino 2010

IL POGGIONE Brunello di Montalcino 2010

LE RAGNAIE Brunello di Montalcino Fornace 2010

SAN FELICE Brunello di Montalcino Campogiovanni 2010

This firm, dense red has the fruit, structure and harmony to develop, with black cherry, black currant, cedar and tobacco flavors.

95

$50 SAN FILIPPO Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucére 2010

This rich version is saturated with cherry, plum, spice and earth flavors, with dense tannins and vibrant acidity.

95

$70

Iron and graphite aromas accent cherry and raspberry fruit in this supple, saline red, beautifully balanced and complex.

LA FIORITA Brunello di Montalcino 2010

$109

Round and smooth, offering cherry and strawberry flavors, with dense, ripe tannins and a mix of savory and spicy elements.

CASANOVA DI NERI Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova 2010 95

FATTOI Brunello di Montalcino 2010

95

Rich, with excellent density, ripe cherry and plum fruit. Licorice, earth and tobacco notes add depth on the finish.

Smells like a red Burgundy, with cherry, currant, earth and floral aromas and flavors. Elegant and firm, with fine depth.

LA COLOMBINA Brunello di Montalcino 2010

$60

Ripe and juicy, boasting cherry, raspberry, spice and tobacco flavors.

Racy and balanced, staying taut and focused on the finish.

Mint and eucalyptus aromas lead to dried cherry and soy flavors in this firmly tannic red. Sweetness and acidity drive the finish.

VALDICAVA Brunello di Montalcino 2010

95

Pretty cherry, raspberry, spice, tobacco and eucalyptus flavors highlight this elegant red, which opens up beautifully with aeration.

Intense yet fluid, with a core of black cherry and plum shaded by vanilla, coconut and sweet spices. Beautifully integrated.

POGGIO SALVI Brunello di Montalcino Pomona 2010

PRICE

This is saturated with cherry, raspberry, spice and tobacco flavors, with a supple texture, succulent acidity and refined tannins.

Progetto Prime Donne 2010

PIEVE SANTA RESTITUTA Brunello di Montalcino

SCORE

Fresh cherry and berry flavors lead to leather, tobacco and herbal notes in this focused, balanced, firmly structured red.

LIVIO SASSETTI Brunello di Montalcino Pertimali 2010

95

$70

This tightly wound red has depth and complexity, from the cherry and menthol notes to the earth and mineral elements.

Aromas of strawberry, currant and medicinal herbs show anise, tobacco and earth hints, all backed by a firm, vibrant structure.

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 63

TOMALES BAY BOUNTY

Members of the Hog Island team (clockwise from left): John Finger, Terry Sawyer, Laurie Mahan Sawyer, Erik Schlagenhauf, Veronica Vallejo, Christopher Laramie and Brenna Schlagenhauf

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BY AARON ROMANO U PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALANNA HALE t Hog Island Oyster Co., in the seaside village of Marshall, Calif., white posts jut from the shallows along the shoreline of Tomales Bay, marking oyster beds that follow a winding stretch of Highway 1 in Marin County.

Marshall, 90 minutes’ drive north of San Francisco, has a population of approximately 200, and Hog Island Oyster Co. often sees

A

the same number of visitors in just one day. U Lush, green forested hills serve as the backdrop to an area that resembles a sleepy fishing village, with a handful of antique buildings set along the shores.

A “Live to Shuck” sign announces Hog Island, housed in two 19thcentury wood-frame buildings that were once the post office and the general store. Hungry oyster lovers jostle for elbow room at the

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 67

many sun-bleached picnic tables, breathing in the salty sea air while tossing back oysters.

From the rustic fare served at the farm to the more ambitious offerings featured at the Hog Island restaurants in Napa and San Francisco, the gang knows how to host a shellfish party. The recipes they’ve collected here are representative of their menus, and, matched with wines, make for a relaxed yet focused get-together. og Island’s cofounders, marine biologists John Finger and Michael Watchorn, started seeding oysters by night in 1983 on the shores of Tomales Bay. Working under the good-humored mantra of “strong backs and weak minds,” the pair parlayed a $500 family loan into a flourishing business that today boasts nearly $20 million in annual sales.

“When we first started, oysters were from [the] East Coast,” says Finger, noting that West Coast oysters, grown in clusters and used for canning, were in low demand. Finger, Watchorn and current partner Terry Sawyer, who came on board in 1988 (Watchorn departed in 2006), had the vision to see that a premium half-shell oyster could be grown on Tomales. The team pioneered the rigorous process of single-seed oyster cultivation in California: Baby oysters, or “spat,” are grown individually on tiny chips of shell, then moved to cylinders that protect them from predators, support uniform growth and allow for precise grading. The oysters are then moved to mesh bags, where they are kept for one to two years before being harvested.

About half the state’s shellfish comes from Tomales Bay, an ideal area for farming oysters thanks to its highly productive ecosystem and clean, healthy water, and Hog Island has become a model for quality and consistency. “Thirty years Partners John Finger (center) and Terry Sawyer (right) enjoy a picnic at the farm with Christopher Laramie, ago, I never dreamed that we would sell over a executive chef of Hog Island Oyster Bar in San Francisco. million oysters at the farm,” says Finger. Hog Istheir menu as such,” says Finger. Before long, Hog Island oysters land now harvests and sells more than 3.5 million oysters, clams were showing up on the menus of Chez Panisse, Zuni Café and and mussels yearly. other notable restaurants.

Finger decided to name the business after a 2-acre island in the Since introducing consumers to its “shuck-ur-own” picnic grounds bay, just south of the farm. “The smartest thing we did was coming in the early 1990s, Hog Island Oyster Farm has become a popular up with the name and asking restaurants to list [our oysters] on

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Raw Oysters With “Hogwash”

Grilled Oysters With Peach Barbecue Sauce

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PROP STYLIST: MARIAH GARDNER

WINE SPECTATOR MENU

Picnic preparations, clockwise from top: An oyster is shucked; clams are steamed on the grill; bottles of white wine and rosé are chilled and ready.

destination for day-trippers from San Francisco, Napa and Sonoma looking to enjoy an afternoon of shucking and slurping alongside the sparkling waters. Finger originally envisioned a rustic seafood shack like those near his birthplace on New York’s Long Island, where people could stop by and pick up fresh oysters and clams, forging an easy connection between food and place.

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he picnic ground is just a small piece of the 160 acres that Hog Island farms on Tomales Bay. The company also has a partner farm in Discovery Bay, Wash., and restaurants in San Francisco’s Ferry Building and Napa’s Oxbow Public Market. Despite receiving frequent offers to open more oyster bars, Hog Island sells roughly 85 percent of its oysters to diners at the San Francisco and Napa hubs, with the remainder, along with clams and mussels, supplying more than 40 restaurants nationwide.

Both at the farm and in the restaurants, the atmosphere is relaxed and rustic. “From the farm

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to our restaurants, we wanted to create a casual vibe that celebrates the social aspect of oysters,” says Finger. At the Tomales Bay location, guests can secure a picnic table for $5 per person, complete with a grill, shucking tools, lemons and hot sauce. The team even offers a complimentary shucking lesson for the inexperienced.

The bow of an old wooden boat, located in the farm’s upper picnic area, has been repurposed as a bar, offering oysters raw or grilled, along with local cheeses, breads, charcuterie, wine and beer.

Customers looking to escape the crowds can head straight to the to-go kiosk and pick up a few dozen oysters before heading to one of the many secluded beaches along the bay.

The restaurants in Napa and San Francisco are modestly designed, with wooden tables and minimal decor lending a charm similar to what you experience at the farm. Both offer a menu beyond oysters, including steamers, po’boys, chowder and other small plates, with much of the produce coming from the garden in Marshall.

Hog Island’s most popular oyster is the Hog

Above: Chef Laramie shares a meal with his daughter, Annelise.

Island Sweetwater, a Pacific variety well balanced between salty and sweet, with a slightly smoky finish.

Like wine, oysters draw their flavors from their environment; they all have a sea-kissed tang but taste different depending on the bay they come from. Finger prefers his oysters unadorned, straight from the shell, and washes them down with an ice-cold pilsner. But for this menu, Christopher Laramie, executive chef of the San Francisco bar, shares a few of Hog Island’s crowd-pleasing seasonal recipes that are casual, easy to prepare and perfect for summer entertaining.

Raw Oysters With “Hogwash”

WINE MATCH Hog Island Oyster Wine Edna Valley Paragon Vineyard 2014

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“[This blend’s] Grüner [Veltliner] lends a salinity and white pepper note that is balanced by the tropical notes from the Albariño and parallels the flavors of the oysters, with subtle fruit and tropical notes that don’t get lost in the ‘wash’!”— GREG HINDS, GENERAL MANAGER,

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HOG ISLAND OYSTER CO. SAN FRANCISCO

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WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Ata Rangi Sauvignon Blanc Martinborough 2013

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(89, $24); Zocker Grüner Veltliner Edna Valley Paragon Vineyard 2013 (87, $20)

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1 tablespoon grapeseed oil M cup diced yellow onion 2 tablespoons chopped garlic 4 cups ketchup 1 pound brown sugar 1 L cups molasses 1 L cups apple cider vinegar L cup Worcestershire sauce ¼ cup smoked paprika 1 teaspoon cayenne 2 tablespoons salt 2 tablespoons black pepper 2 pounds halved, pitted Frog Hollow Farm or other large peaches, grilled or roasted 24 medium Hog Island Sweetwater or other Pacific oysters

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WINE MATCH Robert Sinskey Vineyards Pinot Noir Los Carneros Vin Gris 2014

“Dry and lean. Bright strawberry notes play well with the smokiness of the barbecue.”— GREG HINDS WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Tablas Creek Rosé Patelin de

Tablas Paso Robles 2013 (88, $20); Epoch Rosé Paso Robles 2013 (88, $25)

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 73

Manila Clams Steamed With White Wine, Basil Butter, Cherry Tomatoes and Guindilla Peppers

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3 ¾ sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature Leaves from 1 bunch opal basil, coarsely chopped Juice and zest of 2 lemons 1 tablespoon olive oil 3 pounds Hog Island or other good-quality Manila steamer clams (½ pound per serving) 2 cups dry white wine ½ pint cherry tomatoes, whole ½ cup chard or kale, roughly chopped 8 to 10 Happy Quail Farms fresh Guindilla peppers or goodquality shishito, padrón or other Guindilla peppers, whole 1. @e X ZfcXe[\i# i`ej\ ZcXdj le[\i Zffc ilee`e^ nXk\i ]fi ( kf ) d`elk\j% ;`j$ ZXi[ Xep ZcXdj n`k_ j_\ccj k_Xk Xi\ Yifb\e fi efk k`^_kcp Zcfj\[% J\k Xj`[\ `e j`eb kf [iX`e% 2. D`o Ylkk\i# YXj`c# c\dfe al`Z\ Xe[ q\jk `e X ]ff[ gifZ\jjfi lek`c n\cc ZfdY`e\[% JZiXg\ `ekf X Zc\Xe [`j_ Xe[ i\]i`^\iXk\%

WINE MATCH Heitz Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2014

“Clean and bright acidity [is] perfect for cleansing the palate between each bite or dousing the heat of the Guindilla chiles.”— GREG HINDS WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES:

Honig Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2013 (89, $17); Clos Pegase Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Carneros Mitsuko’s Vineyard Musqué Clone 2013 (89, $22)

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 75

Buying Guide

The estate vineyards of Piattelli are planted at 5,500 feet above sea level, in the desertlike Cafayate Valley of northwest Argentina.

Spectator Selections 79 ?`^_cp I\Zfdd\e[\[ 79 :fcc\Zk`Yc\j

New Wines From Around The World 82 8i^\ek`eX# 8ljki`X

BY THE NUMBERS The July 31 Buying Guide features 17 classic wines and nearly 300 outstanding wines from among reviews of 600 new releases. Members

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can access tasting notes and scores for those

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wines reviewed since our last issue, using the

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wines, along with more than 550 additional Wine Ratings search at WineSpectator.com.

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ALCP *(# )'(, Â&#x203A; N@E< JG<:K8KFI 77

S P E C TATO R S E L E C T I O N S Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability.

94

Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva Old Vines 2012 $49 PORTUGAL Powerful, rich and refined,

95

Bomb Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2012 $50 OREGON Supple, expressive, multilayered

with a lithe mouthfeel and flavors of boysenberry, sandalwood, macerated cherry and damson plum. Very minerally as well, with loads of spicy notes on the well-structured, lingering finish. Very elegant. Drink now through 2022.

7,750 cases made.—K.M.

and harmonious, this teems with ripe currant, plum and blueberry fruit, weaving in espresso, cream and nutmeg notes as the finish expands against polished tannins. Drink now through 2022. 248 cases made.—H.S.

96

Bouchard Père & Fils Montrachet Domaine 2012 $600 FRANCE A smooth, creamy texture

sets the pace for the peach, baked apple and spice flavors in this intensely flavored, integrated white. The bracing acidity emerges midpalate, and the finish belies this wine’s rich beginnings. Shows fine potential, with all the components set for a long evolution. Best from 2019 through 2035. 30 cases imported.—B.S.

93

Etre Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2013 $28 CALIFORNIA Uncommonly fruity, deliciously

complex and layered, with ripe, zesty citrus, fig, mango, guava and honeydew flavors. Pure, rich and persistent on the finish. Drink now. 430 cases made.—J.L.

94

Barone Ricasoli Toscana Casalferro 2011 $65 ITALY Pure black cherry and raspberry flavors

are countered by accents of sweet spice and tobacco. The tannins dominate the finish, which is long and mouthwatering. Needs air, so decant now or cellar. Merlot. Best from 2017 through 2024. 27,000 cases made.—B.S.

Collectibles Wines that will improve most from additional bottle age and that show the greatest potential to gain in value.

96

Quinta do Crasto Douro Vinha da Ponte 2012 $160 PORTUGAL A complex, elegant red,

with rich notes of Asian spice and Bourbon vanilla flanking the luscious flavors of Christmas pudding and hoisin sauce. Features intense accents of chocolate mousse midpalate, followed by a creamy finish. Drink now through 2024. 100 cases imported.—K.M.

Ramonet Montrachet 2012 $1,000 FRANCE

96

94

Bookwalter Conflict Conner-Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2012 $60 WASHINGTON A

supple, plush and expressive red, layering currant, plum, sage and white chocolate flavors on a polished frame.

Shows tremendous presence, lingering deftly on the openweave finish. . Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.

Drink now through 2022. 794 cases made.—H.S.

Marc Morey Bâtard-Montrachet 2012 $360

97

A mix of lemon cake, lanolin, nut oil and spice are the hallmarks of this rich, round white. Almost oily in texture, yet with purity and an amplified acidity on the lingering finish. Stone and spice accents linger. Best from 2019 through 2035. 8 cases imported.—B.S.

FRANCE An opulent style, with the creamy texture buoying apricot, lemon cake, apple and citrus blossom aromas and flavors. The underlying acidity keeps this welldefined and drives the terrific, mineral-infused finish.

Shows great harmony and elegance. Best from 2018 through 2032. 10 cases imported.—B.S.

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 79

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Collectibles / Smart Buys

About the Buying Guide T

his Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world and the results of special tastings reported on in greater depth elsewhere in the issue.

Complete tasting notes are provided for all new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Additional reviews appear on our website, www.winespectator.com.

Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. If no reviewer’s initials appear, the wine was tasted by a panel of Wine Spectator editors.

James Laube Harvey Steiman Thomas Matthews Kim Marcus Bruce Sanderson James Molesworth MaryAnn Worobiec Alison Napjus Tim Fish Gillian Sciaretta

California Australia, Oregon, Washington Spain Argentina, Austria, Chile, Germany, Portugal Burgundy, Italy Bordeaux, Loire Valley, Rhône Valley, South Africa California, New Zealand Alsace, Beaujolais, Champagne, Italy California France

Antinori Toscana Solaia 2011 $325 ITALY

94

A rich, bright red, displaying plum, blackberry, boysenberry, leather and spice notes, allied to a dense structure. Built for the long haul, this remains balanced and juicy through the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2018 through 2033.

500 cases imported.—B.S.

Smart Buys Wines that deliver fine character at affordable prices and that are broadly available.

How We Do the Tastings Wine Spectator editors taste approximately 20,000 wines each year. Wines are tasted in our offices in New York and Napa, Calif. Tastings are also conducted on location in various European winegrowing regions.

All tastings are conducted in private, under controlled conditions. Wines are always tasted blind, in flights organized by varietal, appellation or region. Bottles are bagged and coded. Tasters are told only the general type of wine (varietal or region) and the vintage. Price is not taken into account. Each tasting begins with a wine previously rated, which is tasted non-blind as a reference point. Other already-rated wines are inserted into the blind tasting to ensure consistency. A typical tasting-session consists of 20 to 30 wines, with a maximum of two sessions per day. We retaste many wines to confirm impressions, always in subsequent blind tastings.

Notes and ratings are entered directly into our database prior to the removal of the bags. Additional comments may be added to a note after the identity of the wine is revealed, but the score is never changed.

Featured Wines: Spectator Selections, Labels and Photographs

92

Frei Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Reserve 2012 $27 CALIFORNIA

Combines firm, dark fruit and chewy tannins with a measure of finesse and refinement. Ends with gripping, cedary tannins, bolstered by good length and depth. Drink now through 2024. 50,000 cases made.—J.L.

Each issue, our editors choose wines with special qualities; called Spectator Selections, they are highlighted in the first pages of this Buying Guide, along with their labels. The categories are described below. In addition, selected reviews throughout the Buying Guide include a photograph of a winery principal, presenting these producers in a more personal way. All labels and images are chosen by Wine Spectator for editorial purposes only and do not represesent any commercial transaction between Wine Spectator and the producers whose wines are featured.

Highly Recommended: The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability.

Collectibles: Wines that will improve most from additional bottle age and that show the greatest potential to gain in value.

Smart Buys: Wines that deliver fine character at affordable prices and that are broadly available.

Best Values: Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide distribution.

About Prices and Wines Tasted Prices shown reflect the suggested retail price. When the suggested retail price is not available, we publish the prevailing wholesale price with a standard markup added. Actual retail prices may vary.

Wines are chosen for tasting from among those sent to our offices for review and those purchased at retail.

Because we for the most part serve a U.S. audience, we prefer to review wines that are widely available there.

About the 100-Point Scale Ratings reflect how highly our editors regard each wine relative to other wines in its category and are based on potential quality—how good the wine will be when at its peak. The score summarizes a wine’s overall quality; the tasting note describes the wine’s style and character.

95–100 Classic: a great wine 90–94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style 85–89 Very good: a wine with special qualities 80–84 Good: a solid, well-made wine 75–79 Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws 50–74 Not recommended

80 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

91

Alain Brumont Madiran Château Bouscassé 2009 $20 FRANCE Bright, tangy acidity and firm

tannins provide solid structure to the dried raspberry, red currant and black tea flavors. Layers of new leather and tobacco leaf echo through the mouthwatering finish of sweet spice and mineral. Drink now. 20,000 cases made.—K.M.

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Smart Buys / Best Values

90 91

Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Reserva 2010 $25 SPAIN Juicy black cherry and plum flavors are

deepened by licorice, cocoa and mineral notes in this expressive red. The structure is balanced, showing good grip on the spicy finish. Drink now through 2022. 12,500 cases imported.—T.M.

90

Calera Chardonnay Central Coast 2013 $20 CALIFORNIA Clean, pure and juicy, offering

a refreshing mix of ripe pear, apple and melon flavors, shaded by a chalky minerality and followed by a long, lingering finish. Drink now. 13,929 cases made.—J.L.

Bodegas Ondarre Rioja Reserva 2010 $18 SPAIN Black cherry, mineral, light herbal

and toasty vanilla flavors mingle in this focused red, which features light, firm tannins and lively acidity. Graceful and harmonious through the fresh finish. Drink now through 2022. 28,000 cases made.—T.M.

90

Bodegas Palacios Remondo Garnacha Rioja La Montesa 2012 $21 SPAIN Plump and

silky, this round red delivers bright cherry, berry, licorice and orange peel flavors, with well-integrated tannins and a sweet, spicy finish. Expressive. Drink now through 2020.

54,000 cases made.—T.M.

Best Values Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide distribution.

90

Forstreiter Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kremstal Kremser Kögl 2013 $13

AUSTRIA This shows good structure to its liberally spiced

NAPA REDEFINED

flavors of ripe pear, apple tart and melon. Lengthens out midpalate, with mineral and savory notes. The rich finish reveals a snap of anise and vanilla. Drink now through 2018. 5,000 cases made.—K.M.

90

Real Companhia Velha Douro Porca de Murça Red 2013 $10 PORTUGAL A taut, sinewy

style, with notes of slate and white pepper to the roasted plum and dried red berry flavors. Medium-grained tannins emerge on the snappy finish, showing ferrous accents.

Drink now through 2020. 250,000 cases made.—K.M.

90

Meiomi Chardonnay Santa BarbaraSonoma-Monterey Counties 2013 $22

CALIFORNIA This showcases rich tropical fruit, with dashes of mango, marmalade and honeyed citrus that coat the palate while remaining elegant and delicate. A noteworthy achievement. Drink now through 2017. 38,441 cases made.—J.L.

At Napa Cellars, we are putting a modern spin on classic Napa wines, combining Napa’s legendary terroir with contemporary sensibilities to create delicious wines that possess all of the character you’ve come to expect from Napa, but with an attitude and price that we think you will find rather refreshing. In doing so,we are redefining what Napa wine can be. Cheers!

NapaCellars.com

W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M

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ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 81

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Best Values / New Releases: Argentina Chocolate mousse, cream and mocha notes flow through the supple finish. Drink now through 2019. 7,500 cases made.—K.M.

88

Lamadrid Malbec Agrelo 2014 $15 Features hints of bacon to the dark fruit flavors of plum, dried berry and cassis. Presents firm tannins and acidity, with a finish that lingers with mocha and graphite notes. Drink now through 2018. 8,000 cases made.—K.M.

88

Manos Negras Malbec Mendoza Stone Soil Select 2013 $20 Ripe and a touch brooding, with

89

Marqués de Riscal Rioja Arienzo Crianza 2010 $13 SPAIN This polished red is balanced

and graceful, with cherry, licorice, leafy and light vanilla flavors that glide across the smooth palate. Harmonious, with enough acidity to remain lively. Drink now through 2018. 73,000 cases made.—T.M.

87

Kirkland Signature Malbec Mendoza 2013 $7 ARGENTINA Medium-bodied, with good cut to

the dried plum and cherry flavors. Mocha and sandalwood notes show on the lightly creamy finish. Drink now.

200,000 cases made.—K.M.

New Wines From Around the World ARGENTINA Malbec & Blends

91

Altocedro Malbec La Consulta Reserva 2013 $34 Big and rich-tasting, with concentrated flavors of

dark plum, dried blackberry and dark currant, flanked by luscious Asian spice notes. Very creamy as well, offering a plush, open-textured finish of dark chocolate and mocha. Drink now through 2022. 750 cases imported.—K.M.

90 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Mendoza Paraje

88

Chateau St. Jean Fumé Blanc Sonoma County 2013 $12 CALIFORNIA A whiff of toast

mingles with the lemon verbena and green apple notes, balancing the aromatics with a big mouthful of juicy citrus flavors. Drink now. 16,000 cases made.—M.W.

Altamira 2013 $45 Offers a rich, fruity aroma, with luscious flavors of raspberry ganache, wild plum and red currant. Plush midpalate, delivering a creamy finish that offers plenty of milk chocolate notes. Drink now through 2018. 460 cases made.—K.M.

90 Piattelli Malbec Cafayate

88

cherry, herb and sweet spice aromas and flavors. Fruity and appealing, with moderate length. Sangiovese. Drink now. 10,000 cases made.—B.S.

ALEJANDRO NESMAN Winemaker

88

Bodega Ruca Malen Malbec Mendoza Yauquén 2013 $13 A balanced and fresh-tasting red, with

crisp acidity behind the dark cherry and boysenberry flavors, accented by minerally notes. Spice hints and firm tannins show on the fruity finish. Drink now through 2018. 15,000 cases made.—K.M.

88 Pascual Toso Barrancas Toso Mendoza 2013 $15 A suave red, with rich flavors of ripe cherry, plum

preserves and cardamom, accented by plenty of spicy notes. Hints of anise show on the creamy finish. Drink now through 2018. 5,000 cases made.—K.M.

Familia Zuccardi Malbec Uco Valley Q 2013

and sandalwood notes. The fresh, juicy and spicy finish offers some creamy notes. Try with pizza. Drink now.

17,000 cases made.—K.M.

87

style, with concentrated red raspberry and dark plum flavors, loaded with Asian spice notes. Delivers floral accents midpalate, with a powerful finish of dark chocolate. Drink now through 2020. 8,000 cases made.—K.M.

87 La Posta del Viñatero Malbec Mendoza Angel Paulucci 2013 $18 A spicy and supple red,

89

Alberto Furque Malbec Uco Valley 2013 $15

Big, rich and juicy, with zesty minerality to the blackberry, blueberry and dark cherry flavors. Very creamy midpalate, with a luscious finish loaded with brambly notes. Drink now through 2018. 3,000 cases made.—K.M.

89

La Posta del Viñatero Tinto Mendoza 2013 $15 The cherry tart and roasted plum flavors are firm

82 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

of raspberry and blueberry dominate this fresh, focused red. Effusively spicy midpalate, with a plush finish of cardamom and ginger. Lively, juicy and well-concentrated.

Drink now through 2018. 9,000 cases made.—K.M.

90 Dominio del Plata Malbec Mendoza Susana

cherry, plum and boysenberry, matched to notes of sandalwood. Juicy and buoyantly spicy on the finish. Drink now through 2018. 30,000 cases made.—K.M.

zesty grapefruit edge accents the core of this juicy mix of citrus and green fruits. Refreshing and clean, this ends with a dash of pithy citrus peel. Drink now. 47,000 cases made.—J.L.

La Posta del Viñatero Malbec Mendoza The Pizzella Family 2013 $18 Fruity aromas and flavors

87 Valentín Bianchi Malbec Mendoza Leo 2013 $17 A clean and supple red, with concentrated raspberry

Dominio del Plata Malbec Mendoza BenMarco 2013 $20 A lithe red, with refined flavors of

Smoking Loon Chardonnay California Steelbird Unoaked 2013 $9 CALIFORNIA A

88

Open-textured, with white pepper notes to the dried berry and cherry flavors. Focused acidity drives the supple, savory finish. Drink now through 2018. 10,000 cases made.—K.M.

89

88

and dried tarragon to the flavors of cherry, dried berry and red currant. Hints of sandalwood show on the finish. Drink now through 2017. 200 cases imported.—K.M.

$20

Balbo Signature 2013 $25 An intense and vibrant

Bibi Graetz Toscana Casamatta Red NV $12 ITALY A medium-weight red, sporting jammy

88 Bodegas El Porvenir Malbec-CabernetSyrah Cafayate Valley Amauta Corte I Inspiracion 2013 $23 Firm and fleshy, with notes of green olive

88

Valley Reserve 2013 $17

A refined style, this red offers lively acidity behind the flavors of dried berry, cherry and pomegranate.

This features zesty minerality and medium-grained tannins, showing seductive spicy notes on the finish.

Drink now through 2018. 2,765 cases made.—K.M.

roasted dark plum and strawberry-rhubarb flavors, framed by muscular tannins. Smoky notes show on the finish.

Drink now through 2018. 1,000 cases imported.—K.M.

and savory in this well-sculpted red. Sandalwood and smoky notes appear midpalate, lingering into the fresh and chewy finish, with accents of white chocolate. Malbec, Bonarda and Syrah. Drink now through 2017. 9,000 cases made.—K.M.

Kirkland Signature Malbec Mendoza 2013 $7 See Best Values, this page.

with flavors of cherry and strawberry-rhubarb pie. Creamy midpalate, featuring a finish of cardamom. Drink now.

9,000 cases made.—K.M.

87

Bodega Ruca Malen Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza Yauquén 2013 $13 Juicy and

fruity, with red raspberry flavors that are smooth and spicy.

Light creamy notes show on the plush finish. Drink now.

9,000 cases made.—K.M.

87

Trapiche Malbec Mendoza Broquel 2013 $18

Supple, with plum pudding, raspberry and milk chocolate flavors, loaded with accents of Asian spice. The finish lingers with hints of mocha and licorice. Drink now.

50,000 cases made.—K.M.

87

Bodega Vistalba Malbec Uco Valley Tomero 2013 $17 Medium-bodied, with plenty of juicy red

berry and pomegranate flavors, accented by notes of white pepper. Offers a clean, fresh-tasting finish. Drink now.

2,000 cases imported.—K.M.

89

86

flavors of dark plum, dried blackberry and butter pastry.

notes, this offers a supple mix of fruit and spice flavors.

Bodegas Nieto Senetiner Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2013 $13 A rich and savory style, with plush

Finca Sophenia Malbec Tupungato Reserve 2013 $17 Redolent of fresh-crushed red berry and plum

New Releases: Argentina / Austria / France Graphite hints show on the fresh finish. Drink now. 25,000 cases made.—K.M.

89

86

core of red peach and blood orange flavors, with luscious ripe melon notes. White currant and lemon-lime details enliven the fresh and well-spiced finish. Drink now through 2018. 2,500 cases imported.—K.M.

Michel Torino Malbec Calchaquí Valley Don David Reserve 2013 $17 A medium- to full-bodied

red, with juicy flavors of red currant, plum and red berry.

The fresh finish has notes of white pepper. Drink now.

20,000 cases made.—K.M.

AUSTRIA Grüner Veltliner

91

Nigl Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kremstal Rehberger Zwetl 2013 $39 Rich and voluptuous, with concentrated flavors of dried apricot and peach cobbler, layered with custardy notes. Very spicy, presenting a finish that oozes with white chocolate and raspberry ganache accents. Drink now through 2020. 30 cases imported.—K.M.

90 Forstreiter Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kremstal Kremser Kögl 2013 $13

See

Smart Buys, page 81.

90 Forstreiter Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein

Trocken Kremstal Tabor Reserve 2012 $36 Wellcrafted and full of zesty, focused flavors of ripe pear, apple tart and banana cream pie. Luscious midpalate, with a finish filled with white chocolate and spice notes. Drink now through 2020. 250 cases made.—K.M.

90 Rainer Wess Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kremstal Pfaffenberg Reserve 2013 $36

This unfolds with layers of crisp apple, green pear and grapefruit, richly spiced. The lemon meringue notes feature gooseberry accents on the juicy finish. Drink now through 2018. 50 cases imported.—K.M.

Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kremstal 2014 $16 This offers a vibrant

89

Nigl Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kremstal Freiheit 2013 $21 Rich and well-spiced, with fresh and juicy flavors of red peach, ripe pear and baked apple. The custardy finish is plush and pillowy, showing lively acidity. Drink now through 2019. 1,500 cases imported.—K.M.

89

Josef Schmid Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kremstal Alte Reben 2013 $30 Crisp and

fresh-tasting, with generously spiced flavors of green apple and lemon-lime. Saline notes show midpalate, presenting hints of white pepper. Savory finish. Drink now through 2018. 112 cases imported.—K.M.

FRANCE Beaujolais

90 Guy Breton Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2013 $29

Highly aromatic, with dried lavender and ground spice notes lacing the juicy mulberry, stone and crushed plum flavors, graced by light, supple tannins. An elegant red, showing fine length and expression. Drink now through 2020. 165 cases imported.—A.N.

90 Château Grange Cochard Morgon Les Charmes 2013 $22 Well-knit and lightly grippy, this offers abundant crushed blackberry and black cherry fruit, with accents of graphite, marjoram and espresso.

A fresh, stylish red, with a lasting finish. Drink now through 2020. 20 cases imported.—A.N.

SARAH & JAMES WILDING Owners & Winemakers

90 Château Grange Cochard Morgon Vieilles

Vignes 2013 $21 Offers a ripe profile, with plum, blackberry and boysenberry flavors. This fresh red adds good dimension, delivering a finish laced with savory spice, grilled herb and graphite elements. Drink now through 2018. 100 cases imported.—A.N.

90 M. Lapierre Morgon 2013

$32 Wild strawberry and pomegranate flavors are highlighted by fresh acidity in this balanced red, with graphite, licorice and floral notes that ease into the tangy finish. Drink now through 2017. 2,265 cases imported.—A.N.

89

Romain Jambon Brouilly Les Vieux Ceps 2011 $25 Broad, with a creamy edge, this medium-

bodied red is marked with black cherry coulis, plum tart and rich spice flavors. Dried floral and fresh leather undertones fuel the finish. Drink now through 2018. 28 cases imported.—G.S.

88

Château de Bellevue Morgon Climat Les Charmes 2011 $23 A hint of tarry smoke underscores

this creamy red, layered with baked raspberry, fresh brown bread and woodsy spice flavors. Balanced and fresh. The subtle finish shows light grip. Drink now through 2018.

4,000 cases made.—A.N.

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 83

New Releases: France

88

Romain Jambon Brouilly Les Eronnes 2012

88

Dominique & Remy Passot Morgon 2013 $22

$21 Ripe strawberry and raspberry flavors gush from the glass in this bright and tangy red, while light tannins and notes of Asian five-spice powder show on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2018. 28 cases imported.—A.N. A creamy red, with ripe plum, strawberry, grilled herb and leather notes, layered with light tannins and juicy acidity.

Moderate finish. Drink now through 2017. 30 cases imported.—A.N.

88

Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly 2013 $25

Blain-Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet 2012 $250 The core flavors of peach, apple and spice show

Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais 2013 $15

97

this ripe, juicy white, imparting a Riesling-like quality.

Lean and taut on the mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2020. 5 cases imported.—B.S.

Marc Morey Bâtard-Montrachet 2012 $360

See

Collectibles, page 79.

95

Louis Jadot Bâtard-Montrachet 2012 $369

Vanilla and baking spice aromas lead off, with the peach and apple fruit showing on the palate. Flamboyant, yet firmly structured, this has underlying lime and stone elements that should emerge with time. Excellent length.

Best from 2018 through 2032. 66 cases imported.—B.S.

95

Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles 2012 $476 A smooth, almost oily-textured

white, boasting peach, lemon cake, clove, butterscotch and floral aromas and flavors. All the components are in the right place, but this needs time to come together. Offers a long, mouthwatering and mineral-tinged aftertaste.

Best from 2018 through 2033. 83 cases imported.—B.S.

95

Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet 2012 $300

© 2015 Imported from New Zealand by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates Ltd., Woodinville, WA 98072

The apple pie, butterscotch, toast and spice notes are matched to a creamy texture. The vibrant structure sneaks up on you, defining the long finish. Reticent today, showing potential for the future. Best from 2019 through 2035.

15 cases imported.—B.S.

95

Ramonet Chevalier-Montrachet 2012 $500

Smoky, spicy aromas segue into rich, buttery peach, apple, cream and spice flavors. Lush, yet balanced by lively acidity, this lingers with a stony note on the fine aftertaste.

Best from 2017 through 2028. 6 cases imported.—B.S.

94

Bachelet-Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet 2012 $275 A fresh, apple-accented version, with stone fruit and lemon flavors driven by vibrant acidity. Lean in profile and crisp, this is a distinct style that will need time to come together. Offers a long, minerally finish. Best from 2018 through 2030. 10 cases imported.—B.S.

94

Blain-Gagnard Montrachet 2012 $825 An athletic white, whose lemon, apple, lanolin and clove flavors are fused to the steely structure. Supple and almost creamy, with racy acidity driving the superb finish. The minerality leaves a lasting impression. Best from 2019 through 2033. 22 cases imported.—B.S.

94

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$360

Bouchard Père & Fils Montrachet Domaine 2012 $600 See Collectibles, page 79.

Ramonet Montrachet 2012 $1,000

accents of lime, petrol and stone in this lively, balanced white, ending with apple and mineral notes. The elements need time to harmonize. Best from 2019 through 2033.

70 cases imported.—B.S.

Gagnard-Delagrange Bâtard-Montrachet 2012 $260 Floral and tropical fruit flavors highlight

96 96

93

93

See Collectibles, page 79.

84 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

Michel Niellon Bâtard-Montrachet 2012 $360 This focused white starts out with a whiff of oys-

86

Burgundy / Côte de Beaune / Bâtard-Montrachet & Neighboring Grands Crus

Enjoy Villa Maria Responsibly

94

ter shell, followed by flavors of apple, lemon and stone.

Balanced and long, with echoes of mineral on the aftertaste.

Best from 2018 through 2029. 36 cases imported.—B.S.

FRANCE

VILLAMARIA.CO.NZ

94 Louis Latour Montrachet 2012 $560 Pineapple, apricot, lemon and clove aromas and flavors signal this intense, oily white. Tight and lean now, like a longdistance runner waiting for the race to start. Exhibits fine structure, balance and length. Best from 2018 through 2035. 137 cases made.—B.S.

Damson plum and mulberry fruit sits on the silky palate of this harmonious red, with light floral and spice accents mixing with a hint of minerality on the fresh finish. Drink now through 2018. 1,195 cases imported.—A.N. Well-balanced and bright, this spicy red offers tangy plum, mineral and mulberry flavors. Light-bodied and accessible.

Drink now. 3,520 cases imported.—A.N.

New Zealand’s Most Awarded Winery for over 30 years and now New Zealand’s Most Admired Wine Brand

lemon cake and apple tart flavors, complemented by a latent mineral element. The vibrant acidity emerges on the long, spice-filled aftertaste. Best from 2017 through 2029.

60 cases imported.—B.S.

Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet 2012

$355 From the enticing aromas to the fresh finish, this is harmonious, appealing and complex, with butterscotch,

Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet 2012

Leads off with a hint of matchstick, but this creamy, lime-infused white also features oyster shell and mineral elements that accent the core of citrus and stone fruit. Refined and focused, with excellent length. Best from 2018 through 2032. 76 cases imported.—B.S.

92

$485

Alain Chavy Chevalier-Montrachet 2012

Broad and plush, featuring butterscotch-tinged peach, melon and pear flavors. Baking spice accents peek through as this unfolds on the long, opulent finish. Best from 2017 through 2028. 4 cases imported.—B.S.

92

Louis Latour Bâtard-Montrachet 2012 $410

Tropical fruit, apricot and spice aromas and flavors mark this flamboyant white. On the back end, this is lean and racy, staying persistent on the lingering finish. Best from 2017 through 2028. 137 cases made.—B.S.

92

Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 2012 $275 A mix between butterscotch and apple pie flavors, with accents of sweet baking spices and buttered toast. Rich and powerful, with light tannins on the finish.

Best from 2017 through 2028. 8 cases imported.—B.S.

FRANCE Burgundy / Côte de Beaune / Corton & Corton-Charlemagne

95

Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne 2012 $186

An enticing mix of peach, pear, spice and stone aromas and flavors, all backed by a lively structure. Hangs together, with lime, spice and saline elements on the long aftertaste. Best from 2018 through 2032. 347 cases imported.—B.S.

94

Marius Delarche CortonCharlemagne 2012 $120 This

clean and bracing white delivers unadorned fruit flavors of apple and pear. Light baking spice accents peek through as this cruises to the long, apple- and spice-tinged finish.

Best from 2017 through 2030. 80 cases imported.—B.S.

94

ETIENNE DELARCHE Owner & Winemaker

G. Roumier Corton-Charlemagne 2012 $300

Lime blossom, oyster shell and apricot notes mark this juicy, viscous white. Harmonious and racy, this is tensile and slightly buttery on the finish. Leaves a fine, mouth-

New Releases: France watering impression. Best from 2018 through 2033. 9 cases imported.—B.S.

92

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cal fruit notes with citrus and spice accents. Lively and complex, with a lingering aftertaste of ripe fruit and spice.

Drink now through 2022. 15 cases imported.—B.S.

Château Génot-Boulanger Corton-Charlemagne 2012 $165 With air, the reduced aromas

give way to lemon, apple, pear and spice notes. Bracing acidity runs underneath, but this is also rich and fleshy.

Shows excellent balance and length, but needs time. Best from 2018 through 2030. 150 cases made.—B.S.

93

Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne 2012

$165 Tropical notes of pineapple, mango, grapefruit peel and spice combine in this fleshy white. Stays vibrant and long, if still a little raw on the finish. Best from 2017 through 2028. 1,647 cases made.—B.S.

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$250

Lucien Le Moine Corton-Charlemagne 2012

Gently oaky, with notes of vanilla and nutmeg shading the white peach, apple and pear fruit. Open and almost accessible now, but the vivid acidity on the finish indicates that this needs more time. Best from 2018 through 2032. 40 cases imported.—B.S.

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$150

Rapet Père & Fils Corton-Charlemagne 2013

A dense, concentrated style, with ample peach and apple flavors, accented by light spice notes. The fine cut and mineral touches emerge as this glides to a lingering aftertaste redolent of fruit, spice and mineral. Best from 2017 through 2030. 500 cases made.—B.S.

92

Decelle-Villa Corton-Charlemagne 2012 $150 Supple and harmonious, this white delivers apple,

spice and toast flavors, with an underlying vein of mineral. Taut and focused, unwinding on the long finish. Best from 2017 through 2030. 15 cases imported.—B.S.

92

Tollot-Beaut Corton-Charlemagne 2012

$210 A racy, fluid style, showing pear, melon, butter and stone aromas and flavors. Tightens up on the finish, where quinine and mineral elements linger. Best from 2017 through 2028. 48 cases imported.—B.S.

91

Domaine Parent Corton 2012 $150 Rich, with apple, peach and spice flavors coming together on the bright structure. Needs a little more time to find balance. Ends with a mouthwatering finish. Best from 2018 through 2030.—B.S.

FRANCE

Marc Morey Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 2012 $175 This white combines peach, floral and tropi-

92

Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet 2012 $130 Smoke and spice aromas give way to peach and melon notes in this creamy white. The acidity keeps the wine focused, with spice accents echoing on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2023. 15 cases imported.—B.S.

91 Alex Gambal Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères 2012 $65 Well-marked by toasty oak, this white offers apple, citrus, butterscotch and spice flavors.

Overall, this is rich, yet with tension and spice on the finish. Drink now through 2022. 25 cases imported.—B.S.

91

Lucien Le Moine Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 2012 $190 Lush, with butter and lemon

cake flavors, accented by toasty oak, mineral and white pepper notes. Wraps up with a light grapefruit peel bitterness and fine length. Best from 2016 through 2022.

9 cases imported.—B.S.

91

Pierre Matrot Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 2012 $115 A rich and creamy style, with

peach, apple, lemon and spice flavors underneath. Balanced and long, this shows a hint of oyster shell on the lingering aftertaste. Best from 2016 through 2023. 36 cases imported.—B.S.

91

Vincent & Sophie Morey Puligny-Montrachet La Truffière 2013 $104 Intense aromas and flavors

of lemon, citrus blossom, hazelnut and toasted brioche mark this focused white. Balanced, lingering with spice and mineral notes. Drink now through 2022. 45 cases imported.—B.S.

91 Maison l’Orée Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 2012 $184 A seashore accent graces the peach, melon and orange peel flavors in this expressive white, which is vivid and persistent, with a long, citrusy tang on the finish. Best from 2016 through 2023. 50 cases made.—B.S.

91

Jean Pascal & Fils Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 2012 $90 Floral, lime, apricot and hazel-

Burgundy / Côte de Beaune / Puligny-Montrachet

nut aromas and flavors feature prominently in this silky white. Harmonious and racy, with fine length on the citrus- and mineral-tinged aftertaste. Drink now through 2020. 25 cases imported.—B.S.

92

Jean-Louis Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 2012 $90 This offers good focus, with

90 Alain Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillons

lemon, melon and buttercream notes meshing seamlessly with the lively structure. Stays vibrant and mouthwatering on the long finish. Best from 2016 through 2023. 30 cases imported.—B.S.

aromas and flavors of white peach, pear and baking spices.

Lush but not soft, ending with accents of butterscotch and vanilla. Best from 2016 through 2022. 25 cases imported.—B.S.

92

90 Alain

Clove and spearmint notes mingle in this spicy white.

Apple and peach flavors lurk underneath, with the toast and spice elements reemerging on the finish. A little nervous right now. Best from 2016 through 2022. 154 cases imported.—B.S.

peach and melon flavors, accented by spice. Open and easy, with fine balance and a long, supple finish. Drink now through 2020. 66 cases imported.—B.S.

Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne Domaine Duc de Magenta 2012 $112

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Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 2012 $112 Bright, with peach, melon and

floral aromas and flavors, showing hints of butter and spice.

Rich and supple, with a lingering aftertaste of fruit and spice. Drink now through 2020. 73 cases imported.—B.S.

92

Sébastien Magnien Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 2012 $89 An underlying mineral

element sets the pace in this elegant, vibrant white.

Lemon cake, apple and spice notes come into play as this glides into a long, spice-tinged aftertaste. Drink now through 2021. 51 cases made.—B.S.

2012 $90 This white is round and supple, exhibiting

Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Les Charmes 2012 $75 A round, buttery style, featuring

90 Jean-Louis Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Les

Perrières 2012 $90 Aromatic and expressive, this white features butterscotch, clove and vanilla accents over a core of apple pie and melon flavors. Open, finishing on the candied side. Drink now through 2020. 20 cases imported.—B.S.

90 Decelle-Villa Puligny-Montrachet

Les Nosroyes 2012 $72 A rich and concentrated white,

showing spice and toast accents to its lemon, apple and stone flavors. Finishes with a hint of butterscotch and baking spices. Best from 2016 through 2023. 24 cases imported.—B.S.

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 85

New Releases: France

90 Jean Féry & Fils Puligny-Montrachet Les

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boasting apple, peach and baking spice flavors. Lingers with spice and fruit notes, along with bright acidity. Drink now through 2020. 200 cases made.—B.S.

Fresh, with well-knit acidity, this harmonious Champagne shows a fine, creamy bead and rich notes of raisin bread, plum compote and lemon curd, underscored by a hint of smoked walnut. Disgorged October 2014.

Drink now through 2018. 500 cases made.—A.N.

Nosroyes 2012 $45 A smooth, well-balanced style,

90 Louis Latour Puligny-Montrachet Sous Le

Puits 2012 $95 Butter and butterscotch aromas lead off, with baked apple and spice notes adding interest.

Opulent in profile, this echoes spice details on the finish.

Drink now through 2020. 475 cases made.—B.S.

90 Xavier

Monnot Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 2012 $125 Plenty of baking spice notes

adorn the peach and melon fruit in this juicy version. Balanced, with a tangy finish that evokes grapefruit peel. Best from 2016 through 2022. 45 cases imported.—B.S.

FRANCE Champagne

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Leclerc-Briant Brut Champagne Cuvée Divine NV $150 Flavors of raisin bread and golden currant mix with salted almond, chalk, floral and honey notes in this finely balanced and well-knit sparkler.

Creamy in texture and lightly mouthwatering throughout, with a lasting, sapid finish. Disgorged March 2014. Drink now through 2023. 500 cases made.—A.N.

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Beaugrand Brut Champagne NV $120 Fresh and floral, featuring an ethereal, silky quality to the weight and texture, with a fine, focused array of pear financier, clover honey, salted almond and crushed black currant flavors. Drink now through 2023. 325 cases imported.—A.N.

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Leclerc-Briant Brut Champagne Les Chèvres Pierreuses NV $80 Distinctive and expressive, with

Petit & Bajan Brut Champagne Ambrosie NV

90 Duval-Leroy Brut Champagne Premier Cru NV $69 Fragrant and floral, this aperitif style is light-

footed and open-knit, with modest flavors of crunchy white peach, chalk, slivered almond and candied lemon zest. Disgorged January 2015. Drink now. 20,000 cases made.—A.N.

90 H. Lanvin & Fils Brut Champagne Cuvée Sélection NV $35 Firm and focused, with tightly knit flavors of spiced plum, poached pear, candied ginger and sliced almond, backed by citrusy acidity. Lively, with a hint of smoky mineral on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2018. 100,000 cases made.—A.N.

90 J. de Telmont Brut Champagne Grande Réserve NV $55 Gala apple and orchard blossom

notes are underscored by accents of smoke and chalk in this well-knit sparkler, with a tight bead and lively acidity. Fresh and accessible, delivering a subtle finish. Drink now. 125,000 cases made.—A.N.

89

Forget-Brimont Brut Champagne NV $54

Wood smoke and spice notes underscore this creamy, balanced Champagne, which shows flavors of creamed apple, golden raisin and smoked walnut, followed by a firm finish. Drink now through 2018. 16,000 cases made.—A.N.

FRANCE Languedoc-Roussillon / Red

ground anise and chopped marjoram accents leading to high-toned notes of white cherry and steeped white peach fruit. This vibrant version offers a fine bead, backed by racy acidity and a streak of salinity on the mouthwatering finish. Disgorged April 2014. Drink now through 2020.

1,000 cases made.—A.N.

91 Mas Delmas Côtes du Roussillon-Villages M del Mas 2012 $43 Muscular yet smooth, with plum

92 Veuve Doussot Brut Champagne Grande Cuvée NV $55 A rich Champagne, showing finesse,

91 Mas Delmas Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Pad del Mas 2010 $76 A muscular red, with concen-

with layered flavors of ripe black currant, apple tarte Tatin, honey and toasted almond, featuring a satiny texture and mouthwatering acidity. A subtle streak of minerality underscores this wine, gaining momentum on the finish.

Disgorged January 2014. Drink now through 2022. 2,916 cases made.—A.N.

Charles Ellner Brut Champagne Carte Blanche NV $40 An expressive Champagne,

featuring flavors of white cherry, acacia blossom, spice and slivered almond, set on a refined bead and layered with sleek acidity. This is linear and focused, with a hint of salinity lingering on the finish.

Drink now through 2020. 12,500 cases made.—A.N.

sauce, mocha, and licorice aromas. Balsamic acidity and chewy tannins provide structure through the paprika- and black olive–laced finish. Drink now through 2022. 4,300 cases made.—K.M.

trated flavors of roast plum, dried raspberry and black olive that are well-structured. Shows lots of bittersweet chocolate notes as well. The finish is fat, well-spiced and creamy. Drink now through 2019. 1,200 cases made.—K.M.

90 Mas Delmas Côtes du Roussillon-Villages 2013 $26 A suave red, with lush favors of dark currant, boysenberry and allspice, carried on a lithe frame.

Minerally midpalate, offering dark chocolate and white pepper notes on the finish. Drink now through 2020. 1,250 cases imported.—K.M.

91

90 Domaine

FRÉDÉRIC ELLNER Vineyard Manager

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Charles Ellner Brut Champagne Grande Réserve NV $50 This fresh Champagne shows lovely

balance, with sleek, saline mineral and rich biscuit notes underscoring the Damson plum, golden raisin and licorice string flavors. Drink now through 2020. 12,500 cases made.—A.N.

91

J.M. Gobillard Brut Champagne Grande Réserve NV $56 An elegant Champagne, with a fine

bead and mouthwatering acidity. Verbena and ground ginger accents lace the ripe Gala apple and blackberry fruit, revealing almond biscotti and chalk notes. Drink now through 2020. 20,000 cases made.—A.N.

86 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

$65

de Nizas Languedoc 2011 $20

Elegant, with roasted plum and black cherry fruit flavors, showing savory spice, black olive and mocha accents. Bright acidity and integrated tannins add support through to the mouthwatering finish. Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah.

Drink now through 2018. 2,500 cases made.—K.M.

89 Château de Lancyre Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St.-Loup Vieilles Vignes 2013 $24 Creamy and

open-textured, with juicy plum, blackberry, cigar box and spice flavors, supported by integrated tannins. Mocha and smoke accents emerge on the finish. Drink now through 2018. 4,400 cases made.—G.S.

88 Marie Delmas Côtes du Roussillon-Villages 2011 $26 Taut and minerally, with crisp red fruit and

savory herbal flavors, matched to firm tannins. Olive and graphite notes show on the finish. Drink now through 2017. 6,500 cases made.—K.M.

New Releases: France

FRANCE Languedoc-Roussillon / Rosé

86

Laroche Pays d’Oc Rosé de la Chevalière 2014 $12 A broad style, with savory wet stone and

90 Gérard

saline notes, underscored by melon, white raspberry and cherry flavors. A creamy edge lingers through the fresh finish. Drink now. 7,000 cases made.—G.S.

and aromatic rosé, with lemon curd, cherry tart and baking spice flavors. Creamy but still fresh, featuring a solid spine of acidity that carries through to the long, smoky and perfumed finish. Drink now. 800 cases made.—K.M.

FRANCE

Bertrand Coteaux du Languedoc Rosé Château La Sauvageonne 2014 $75 An rich

Southwest / Madiran

89 Gérard Bertrand Coteaux du Languedoc Rosé Château La Sauvageonne Wild Woman 2014 $22 Creamy and plush, with fresh white peach, cherry

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pit and melon flavors. Underlying herb and savory spice elements add well-rounded complexity to the floral and stony finish. Drink now. 7,000 cases made.—G.S.

red has dark cherry ganache, milk chocolate, floral and plum flavors. A mouthcoating texture, with firm but integrated tannins, eases into the tobacco leaf–, tea- and graphite-infused finish. Drink now. 900 cases made.—K.M.

89

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surrounding the cherry pit, melon rind and nectarine flavors. Offers a lingering floral and stony finish. Refreshing.

Drink now. 775 cases imported.—G.S.

91

Château de Lascaux Languedoc Rosé 2014 $17 Focused and spry, with savory herb and spice notes

89

Domaine de Nizas Languedoc Rosé 2014 $17

Very juicy, with rich, concentrated flavors of cherry tart, cantaloupe and raspberry, featuring expressive spicy notes.

Creamy finish. Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. Drink now. 4,850 cases imported.—K.M.

88

Domaine de Fabrègues Languedoc Rosé Moulin de Vissandre 2014 $30 A pretty rosé, with

Alain Brumont Madiran Château Bouscassé 2009 $20 See Smart Buys, page 80.

$19

Alain Brumont Madiran Tour Bouscassé 2010

Concentrated but sleek, with lively acidity highlighting the crushed dark plum and dark cherry fruit. Underlying layers of graphite, chocolate and mint add good complexity, featuring integrated tannins that ease into the lingering, dried floral finish. Drink now through 2018.

12,500 cases made.—K.M.

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Château Peyros Madiran Greenwich. 43N 2010 $40 A powerful red, with hefty tannins, this

sports dark cherry, currant and plum pudding flavors. A core of dark chocolate, graphite and herb is supported by a beam of acidity through the lingering, floral finish. Drink now through 2018. 700 cases made.—K.M.

88

90 Alain Brumont Madiran Château Bouscassé

Hecht & Bannier Languedoc Rosé 2014 $13

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Château de Lancyre Coteaux du Languedoc Rosé Pic St.-Loup 2014 $20 Plump, with zesty acid-

ity, this rosé sports cherry, red berry and spice flavors. Wet stone and floral notes show on the finish. Drink now.

8,330 cases made.—G.S.

88

Domaines Listel Sable de Camargue Rosé Domaine de Jarras Pink Flamingo Tête de Cuvée 2014 $14 A stony undertone carries the cherry pit,

melon rind and crunchy peach flavors. Herbal and rose water elements linger through the lightly spiced finish.

Drink now. 72,000 cases made.—G.S.

88

Les Vignerons de Tautavel Vingrau Côtes Catalanes Rosé Le Cirque 2014 $15 This mouth-

coating rosé offers creamy cherry tart, raspberry and blood orange flavors, with solid acidity keeping it fresh through to the finish of spice and wet stone. Drink now. 2,775 cases made.—G.S.

87

Château du Donjon Minervois Rosé 2014 $16

A creamy-textured, savory rosé that leads with dried herb and fleur de sel notes. Underlying cherry pith and grapefruit rind aromas add freshness. Spice-tinged finish. Drink now. 4,170 cases made.—G.S.

87

Dune Sable de Camargue Rosé Gris de Gris 2014 $10 Fresh and creamy, with juicy white cherry

and berry flavors, matched with floral and zesty undertones. Offers a finish tinged with savory herb and spice details. Drink now. 30,000 cases made.—G.S.

87

Les Vignobles JeanJean Sable de Camargue Domaine Le Pive Gris 2014 $16 Fresh citrus, cherry and ripe melon flavors make up the core of this creamyedged rosé. Mineral, herb and savory spice notes linger on the crisp finish. Drink now. 29,170 cases made.—G.S.

86

Cases de Pène Grenache-Syrah Côtes Catalanes Rosé Penya 2014 $12 Lively, with zesty

acidity, this rosé features bracing watermelon rind, cherry pit and herb notes. A slick minerality and spice accents round out the finish. Drink now. 2,800 cases made.—G.S.

a perfect Port

Alain Brumont Madiran Château Montus La Tyre 2009 $150 Brooding and rich, this concentrated

cream, white cherry and melon flavors, balanced by underlying rose water, herb, and savory spice notes, with a warm stone–infused finish. Drink now. 2,500 cases made.—G.S.

Crisp, with savory herb and stony mineral flavors, brightened by red berry and grapefruit rind notes. Offers an airy, fresh finish. Drink now. 1,700 cases imported.—G.S.

ENRICH THE MOMENT

Argile Rouge 2007 $23 A supple and elegant red, with a good concentration of dried berry and dark plum fruit, underscored by tobacco leaf and sweet spice flavors.

Dusty, firm tannins yield to the dried herb and hot stone finish. Drink now. 1,500 cases made.—K.M.

90 Alain

Brumont Madiran Château Montus 2010 $30 A concentrated, elegant red, with layers of

dried cherry, slate and smoke, showing a good amount of spice. A solid beam of acidity keeps this fresh, delivering a finish of hoisin sauce, chocolate and dried floral flavors.

Drink now through 2018. 12,500 cases made.—K.M.

88

Alain Brumont Madiran Torus 2010 $14

Juicy and supple, featuring crushed blackberry, tea and briar notes. A crisp acidity keeps this fresh, with lightly chewy tannins and a spice- and mineral-laced finish. Drink now through 2018. 50,000 cases made.—G.S.

88 $18

Château Peyros Madiran Vieilles Vignes 2010

This has savory grilled herb and hot stone notes that give way to plum, currant and spice flavors. Bright acidity and grippy tannins impart structure through the finish of citrus, earth and mineral. Drink now. 3,500 cases made.—G.S.

FRANCE Southwest / Other

92

Château Lagrézette Malbec Cahors Le Pigeonnier 2012 $400 Sinewy and concentrated,

this inky red features cherry ganache, vanilla and blueberry reduction notes, supported by solid acidity. Featuring firm, integrated tannins, this ends with dark chocolate and mineral details. Drink now through 2018. 356 cases made.—K.M.

90 Alain Brumont Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Château Bouscassé Vendemiaire 2008 $21/375ml

This aromatic sweetie is packed with flavor but light-footed, with juicy acidity carrying notes of honey-glazed pear tart, crème brûlée, smoke and vanilla pudding. Offers a sweet, spicy, floral finish. Drink now. 1,666 cases made.—K.M.

www.taylorfladgate.com Facebook.com/TaylorFladgatePort Please visit: kobrandwineandspirits.com for retail locations ©2015 Kobrand Corporation, Purchase, NY Please drink responsibly

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 87

New Releases: France / Germany

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creaminess, with a lusciously honeyed finish. Drink now through 2040. 200 cases made.—K.M.

cocoa powder, kirsch and dark plum flavors. A mineral note midpalate adds appeal to the clean finish. Drink now through 2018. 4,703 cases made.—G.S.

92 Schlossgut Diel Riesling Auslese Nahe Goldloch 2013 $85 Balanced and concentrated, this

Château Lagrézette Malbec Cahors Cru d’Exception 2012 $45 Juicy and rich, showing spice,

89

Domaine Sarrabelle Gaillac St.-André 2011 $18 A

Inspired by a series of seven waterfalls that once flowed through the region, Seven Falls Cellars is sourced exclusively from the rolling hills of the Wahluke Slope in Washington state.

light- to medium-bodied red, with bright acidity, this features fresh black pepper notes around the dried berry, plum and dried herb flavors.

Blackberry and smoke hints show on the finish. Drink now. 250 cases imported.—G.S.

92

Schloss Lieser Riesling Auslese Mosel Niederberg Helden 2013 $50 Mouthfilling flavors of

LAURENT & FABIEN CAUSSÉ Owners & Winemakers

88

Alain Brumont Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec Château Bouscassé Jardins 2011 $15 A medium-

bodied, creamy white, with an underlying wet stone note sitting behind the glazed pear, lemon curd and blanched almond flavors. Offers a fresh, lingering finish. Drink now.

7,500 cases made.—G.S.

88

Domaine de Millet Côtes de Gascogne Rosé 2014 $10 An exotic rosé, with papaya and pineapple

sevenfallscellars.com

notes underscored by red berry, cream and spice elements.

A citrusy acidity lingers through to the juicy finish. Drink now. 7,000 cases made.—G.S.

86

Les Vignerons de Buzet Buzet Domaine de Michelet 2013 $16 This red has a juicy core of black-

berry, gumdrop and clean, minerally flavors. Integrated, lightly grippy tannins add good structure, with a finish of dark fruit. Crisp and fresh. Drink now. 10,000 cases made.—G.S.

GERMANY Riesling Auslese

94

Bassermann-Jordan Riesling Auslese Pfalz Forster Ungeheuer 2013 $46 Rich and spicy, fea-

turing elegant, fruity flavors of peach, apricot and ripe pear, accented by notes of cardamom. Plush and creamy on the sweet finish, with notes of butter pastry. Drink now through 2040. 40 cases made.—K.M.

94

Egon Müller Riesling Auslese Mosel Scharzhofberger 2012 $601 A rich and creamy style, with

plenty of honeyed notes to the peach, pear and apricot flavors, lengthening out nicely. Pastry accents fill the buoyant finish, which offers almond and mineral details.

Complex and multilayered. Drink now through 2040. 10 cases imported.—K.M.

93

Gunderloch Riesling Auslese Rheinhessen Rothenberg 2013 $70/375ml This is full of ripe

tropical fruit flavors, including guava and dried mango, flanked by rich spice and honeyed notes. Unctuous and creamy in texture, with a fresh, minerally and pure-tasting finish. Drink now through 2045. 100 cases made.—K.M.

90 PTS

June 2013 Wine Spectator

88 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

white glistens with vibrant minerality and refined lemon-lime flavors, joined to plenty of savory notes.

Hints of white pepper and roasted leek show on the elegantly spiced finish. Drink now through 2038.

100 cases made.—K.M.

BERT SELBACH Owner & Winemaker

91

91 Domdechant Werner’sches Riesling Auslese Rheingau Hochheimer Domdechaney 2013 $53

tarine notes are matched with a zippy acidity in this lightto medium-bodied white. Hints of cream, savory spice and fresh mineral wrap up the finish. Drink now. 8,000 cases made.—G.S.

June 2014 Wine Spectator

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Riesling Auslese Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2013 $37 This

fresh, with appealing grapefruit and nectarine flavors, highlighted by a zippy acidity. Spice and white blossom notes show on the finish. Drink now. 12,000 cases made.—G.S.

Domaine de l’Herré Chardonnay Côtes de Gascogne La Galope 2014 $12 Fresh apple and nec-

90 PTS

92

87

86

2010 VINTAGE

green apple and ripe lime make this well-structured and very pure-tasting, with a clean finish. Notes of kiwifruit and gooseberry provide extra zest. Drink now through 2035. 20 cases imported.—K.M.

S.A. Prüm Riesling Auslese Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2012 $41 Flavors of ripe apple and baked

Domaine de l’Herré Sauvignon Blanc Côtes de Gascogne La Galope 2014 $12 Herbaceous and

2011 VINTAGE

is filled with well-structured apple, white currant and mineral flavors, supported by fresh acidity. The supple finish of melon is well-spiced and rich-tasting. Drink now through 2035. 25 cases imported.—K.M.

93

Dr. Loosen Riesling Auslese Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2012 $64 Richly spiced, featuring pow-

erfully pure flavors of candied ginger, apple tart and dried pear, supported by balanced acidity. Shows a seductive

pear are matched to lusciously spiced accents. Flinty midpalate, with dried herb notes on the supple, slightly floral finish. Drink now through 2035. 170 cases made.—K.M.

Fruity and supple, with concentrated apple and pear tart flavors that are well-spiced. Notes of dried tarragon appear on the open-textured and honeyed finish. Drink now through 2030. 100 cases made.—K.M.

90 Robert Eymael (Mönchhof) Riesling Auslese Mosel Erdener Prälat 2013 $45 Redolent of Golden

Delicious apple, with notes of ripe pear and white peach that are well-honeyed. Mineral and spice accents fill the lightly creamed finish. Drink now through 2034. 100 cases imported.—K.M.

GERMANY Riesling Spätlese

93

Schloss Lieser Riesling Spätlese Mosel Juffer-Sonnenuhr 2013 $34 Light smoky notes

accent flavors of apple tart, lemon curd and ripe pear, backed by powerful acidity. Very crisp midpalate, with an engagingly savory and spicy finish. Drink now through 2040. 20 cases imported.—K.M.

93

Schloss Lieser Riesling Spätlese Mosel Niederberg Helden 2013 $32 This is pure and fresh-

tasting, with vibrant notes of slate and elderflower to the crisp apple, pear and ripe citrus flavors. An intense finish of lemon curd and black currant completes the package.

Drink now through 2038. 25 cases imported.—K.M.

92

Egon Müller Riesling Spätlese Mosel Scharzhofberger 2013 $175 This has a rich, buttery essence to its core of ripe apple and pear flavors. Complex midpalate, with notes of onion confit and mille-feuille pastry. The juicy finish lingers with spice and savory accents.

Drink now through 2035. 10 cases imported.—K.M.

92

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Riesling Spätlese Mosel Graacher Domprobst 2013 $29 A lilting white, with

savory accents to the deeply concentrated flavors of Asian pear, apple tart and butter pastry. Honeyed notes intensify on the broad and well-spiced finish. Drink now through 2038. 110 cases made.—K.M.

New Releases: Germany / Italy

92

ing finish, accented by hints of dried herbs. Drink now through 2028. 300 cases made.—K.M.

with up front flavors of ripe peach, glazed apricot and spice. Very creamy midpalate, with a finish that lingers with minerally and savory hints. Drink now through 2020.

140 cases made.—K.M.

ITALY

91

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Gala apple and Meyer lemon, this is plush and fruity. Light cream notes fill in midpalate, with spice and honey hints lingering on the finish. Drink now through 2028.—K.M.

an elegant, medium-bodied frame, this offers smoke, toasted hazelnut and cream accents, with notes of baked apricot, spring blossom, honeycomb and fleur de sel. Sleek acidity leads to a mouthwatering, spiced finish. Drink now through 2025. 850 cases made.—A.N.

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Riesling Spätlese Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2013 $30 Offers a fruity aroma,

H. Dönnhoff Riesling Spätlese Nahe Norheimer Kirschheck 2013 $43 Redolent of fresh-cut

91

Robert Eymael (Mönchhof) Riesling Spätlese Mosel Ürzig Würzgarten 2013 $30 Rich and

loaded with concentrated flavors of peach, cherry and allspice, filled with a creamy lushness. The long finish is full of honey and savory spice notes. Drink now through 2035. 350 cases imported.—K.M.

91

Reinhold Haart Riesling Spätlese Mosel Goldtröpfchen 2013 $40 Flavors of fresh-cut Fuji apple and pear tart dominate this crunchy white. Savory midpalate, with a finish filled with plenty of creamy notes and hints of anise. Drink now through 2035. 250 cases made.—K.M.

91

Ökonomierat Rebholz Riesling Spätlese Pfalz Kastanienbusch 2013 $65 Rich, ripe and broad-textured, with an exotic caste to the flavors of roast pineapple, dried fig and dried mango. Very spicy midpalate, presenting notes of lemon meringue on the finish.

Drink now through 2033. 200 cases made.—K.M.

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Domdechant Werner’sches Riesling Spätlese Rheingau Hochheimer Domdechaney 2013 $37 Rich, with a plush texture and caressingly sweet

flavors of peach, vanilla bean and pastry, filled with notes of buttercream. The long and lilting finish ends with stony notes. Drink now through 2035. 300 cases made.—K.M.

90 Gunderloch Riesling Spätlese Rheinhessen

Rothenberg 2013 $45 Balanced and accessible, with an open texture and elegant flavors of Bosc pear, McIntosh apple and slate. Light, spicy notes linger on the juicy finish. Drink now through 2035. 200 cases made.—K.M.

90 Schloss Lieser Riesling Spätlese Mosel Dry SL 2013 $32

Firm and savory, with plenty of dried herbal notes to the concentrated flavors of apple and ripe citrus. The snappy finish is rich and focused. Drink now through 2018. 15 cases imported.—K.M.

90 Balthasar Ress Riesling Spätlese Rheingau Rüdesheim Berg Rottland 2013 $52

Fruity and fresh-tasting, with glistening acidity to the fresh-cut apple, red peach and Asian pear flavors. The minerally finish offers notes of dried mint and hints of sage. Drink now through 2034. 100 cases made.—K.M.

90 Schloss Saarstein Riesling Spätlese Mosel Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner 2013 $42 Mineral and

saline accents power the ripe apple and dark currant flavors. Very savory midpalate, with a dry finish filled with plenty of fresh acidity. Drink now through 2028. 108 cases made.—K.M.

89

Friuli–Venezia-Giulia La Tunella Friulano Friuli Colli Orientali Col Livius 2012 $30 Richly flavored and creamy, set in

90 Attems Collio Cicinis 2012 $50

Elegant and creamy, this smoky, medium-bodied white weaves bright acidity through poached pear, creamed hazelnut, meringue and fleur de sel notes. Harmonious, with a rich, lingering finish. Drink now through 2022. 889 cases made.—A.N.

90 Jermann Venezia-Giulia Capo Martino 2012

$100 An elegant white, with juicy acidity and a stony undertow, layered with creamy flavors of Honeycrisp apple, green melon, orchard blossom and ground ginger. Mouthwatering finish. Friulano with Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istirana and Picolit. Drink now through 2022.—A.N.

90 Jermann Venezia-Giulia Dreams 2012

A leesy white, open-knit and medium-bodied, with poached apple, pear, creamed almond and lemon meringue flavors, backed by zesty acidity and a rich vein of smoky minerality. Shows intensity, particularly up front, but this is more subtle on the spiced finish. Chardonnay. Drink now through 2022. 2,900 cases made.—A.N.

89

Dr. Heinrich Nagler Riesling Spätlese Rheingau Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck 2013 $26

Firm, with fleshy flavors of green apple and grapefruit, as well as notes of sautéed leeks. Offers a light and refresh-

—Joseph Carr, Son & Founder

Gradis’Ciutta Pinot Grigio Collio 2013 $24

86 Antonutti Pinot Grigio Friuli Grave 2013 $17 Balanced and fresh, with a hint of salinity under-

scoring the snappy palate of melon, crunchy pear, chalk and almond flavors. Drink now through 2018. 15,000 cases made.—A.N.

ITALY Piedmont / Barbera

90 Elio Altare Barbera d’Alba 2013

$28 Black pepper and black cherry aromas and flavors highlight this intensely flavored red. Concentrated fruit stains the palate, remaining fresh and long. Best from 2016 through 2021. 1,400 cases made.—B.S.

89

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and vibrant but always approachable, like him.

Medium-bodied and sleek, offering mineral-driven notes of stone and saline, with a subtle mix of baked apricot, orange zest, apple and star anise. The finish is wellbalanced and racy. Drink now through 2020. 2,500 cases made.—A.N.

juicy style, boasting black cherry, raspberry and spice aromas and flavors. Firms up, staying lively and focused, echoing spice on the finish.

Drink now through 2020. 1,300 cases made.—B.S.

fresh acidity behind the McIntosh apple and Asian pear flavors. The minerally finish is barely off-dry, showing notes of dried herb. Best after 2025. 440 cases made.—K.M.

was my hero. I made this wine in his honor. It’s big

vanilla notes enrich this mouthwatering white, layered with poached pear, pastry and baked apricot flavors. Sleek and well-balanced, showing spicy intensity through the orange marmalade–laced finish. Drink now through 2025.

850 cases made.—A.N.

90 Malvirà Barbera

Dr. Fischer Riesling Spätlese Mosel Ockfener Bockstein 2012 $24 A crunchy white, with lots of

following your dream. His name was Josh and he

90 La Tunella Ribolla Gialla Friuli Colli Orientali Col de Bliss 2012 $30 Smoky toasted hazelnut and

Robert Eymael (Mönchhof) Riesling Spätlese Mosel Mosel Slate 2013 $25 A fruity style, with open-textured flavors of peach, apricot and white cherry that linger with spicy notes on the languid finish. Drink now through 2028.—K.M.

$70

My dad always believed in working hard and

d’Alba San Michele 2012 $20 A rich,

ROBERTO & MASSIMO DAMONTE Owners & Winemakers

90 Castello di Verduno Barbera d’Alba Bricco

del Cuculo 2012 $38 Dark and brooding, this red exhibits blackberry, plum and tar flavors. Thick and dense, yet fresh, with firm grip on the lingering chocolate finish.

Drink now through 2021. 200 cases imported.—B.S.

joshcellars.com

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 89

New Releases: Italy

We do not MAKE SENSE, We make

89

88

cherry and blackberry fruit emerges with air. This could use short-term aging to integrate the tannins. Fine length.

Drink now. 1,500 cases made.—B.S.

hints of zesty ground spice, fresh-chopped herbs and lively acidity in this creamy rosé. Rich and chalky, set in an elegant frame. Drink now. 12,500 cases made.—A.N.

89 Gaudio Mauro Barbera del Monferrato Superiore 2012 $17 The mix of earth, wild cherry,

$15

Domenico Clerico Barbera d’Alba Trevigne 2012 $27 The oak adds a resinous note, but rich black

raspberry and tar flavors is rich and dense, with dusty tannins underneath. Moderate length. Barbera and Freisa.

Drink now through 2020. 1,600 cases made.—B.S.

89

Pira (Chiara Boschis) Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2012 $35 Exudes bright cherry and raspberry

flavors, slightly candied, yet stays fresh and long on the finish. Elegant overall. Drink now through 2018. 300 cases made.—B.S.

89

Fratelli Revello Barbera d’Alba 2013 $20

88

Coppo Barbera d’Asti L’Avvocata 2013 $15

The candied cherry and raspberry flavors are matched to a supple texture in this expressive red, balanced by light tannins on the finish. Drink now through 2018. 1,100 cases imported.—B.S.

88

Damilano Barbera d’Asti 2013 $20

This vibrant red is scented with wild berry, wild rosemary and juniper notes. Succulent and balanced, with a refreshing finish of herbs and tar. Drink now through 2019. 4,665 cases made.—B.S.

88

Aldo & Riccardo Seghesio Barbera d’Alba 2013 $17 Rose, cherry and blackberry flavors weave throughout this fluid red. Lively, with light tannins offering grip on the moderately long finish. Drink now through 2020. 1,250 cases made.—B.S.

ITALY

sert version that’s just off-dry, with chocolate pudding, prune, smoke and steeped black cherry flavors, set in a well-balanced frame. Light tannins and dusty ground spice and cocoa powder notes emerge on the juicy finish. Drink now through 2023. 500 cases made.—A.N.

racy white offers flavors of Anjou pear, chalk, lemon pith and honeysuckle. Stone and spice notes show on the subtle finish. Drink now through 2018. 10,000 cases made.—A.N.

87 Tormaresca Negroamaro Salento Rosato Calafuria 2014 $20 Bright and tangy, this well-

balanced rosé offers smoke and herb accents, layered with cherry, white peach, stone and spice flavors. Drink now.

2,400 cases imported.—A.N.

ITALY Tuscany / Brunello di Montalcino

95 Il Paradiso di Manfredi Brunello di Montalcino 2007 $95 Showing some development, this

red evokes sweet cherry and currant flavors, along with porcino, underbrush, leather and spice notes. Supple and harmonious, with lingering iron and mineral elements.

Enjoyable now, but no need to rush. Drink now through 2024. 500 cases made.—B.S.

92

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2009 $98 Aromas of iron and graphite lead off, segueing into cherry and strawberry flavors. This is firmly structured and tense, with a long, spice-, tobacco- and leather-tinged aftertaste. Best from 2016 through 2026.

160 cases imported.—B.S.

92

$70

Renieri Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2009

A taut, linear style, boasting cherry, strawberry, floral and mineral flavors. Builds nicely, with the tension, balance and length boding well for the future. Best from 2017 through 2028. 500 cases made.—B.S. PIETRO RIBEZZO Owner & Winemaker

Botromagno Gravina 2014 $20

Bergamot, white cherry and tea rose notes accent this distinctive white, showing flavors of sliced almond, fleur de sel and smoke. This is silky on the palate and backed by racy acidity. Greco and Malvasia. Drink now through 2020. 5,800 cases made.—A.N.

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Rivera Chardonnay Castel del Monte Preludio No. 1 2014 $13 Minerally and balanced, this

strawberry, woodsy underbrush and mineral show development, but the vibrant acidity and pointed tannins impart freshness. Should be fine with a grilled steak or pork chop. Best from 2016 through 2030. 650 cases made.—B.S.

Pirro Varone Primitivo di Manduria Tocy Dolce Naturale 2008 $26/500ml A rich des-

88

90 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

87 Pirro Varone Malvasia Bianca Salento Grecale 2013 $15 A light- to medium-bodied, smoky

Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento Riserva 2007 $150 The flavors of cherry,

89

HENDRICK’S GIN, 44% ALC./VOL. ©2015 IMPORTED BY WILLIAM GRANT & SONS, INC. NEW YORK, NY.

white offers candied nectarine, singed orange peel, ground ginger and cardamom notes, layered with hints of biscuit and smoke, all backed by tangy acidity. Moderate finish.

Drink now. 1,600 cases made.—A.N.

92

Puglia

Visit us at HENDRICKSGIN.COM

87 Menhir Salento Fiano Salento Pass-O 2014 $17 Fruit-forward and well-spiced, this medium-weight

87

Castello di Verduno Barbera d’Alba 2013 $24

the palate, offering black cherry and blackberry notes.

Juicy, firming up on the finish. Drink now through 2019.

1,830 cases made.—B.S.

a categor

A well-balanced, juicy rosé, with ripe plum and white cherry flavors and a hint of gumdrop. Stony. Drink now. 8,333 cases made.—A.N.

89

Paolo Conterno Barbera d’Alba Bricco 2013 $22 A little shy in aroma, but shows concentration on

As a spirit distilled in Scotland with an ABSURD profusion of botanicals and infusions of CUCUMBER and ROSE,

Càntele Negroamaro Salento Rosato 2014

white, with baked pear and lemon curd flavors, revealing hints of biscuit and star anise. Creamy, with a clean-cut finish. Drink now through 2018. 4,000 cases made.—A.N.

88

A

87

Fresh and lively, with candied cherry, raspberry and subtle spice flavors. Balanced on the light side, yet vibrant and lingering on the finish. Drink now through 2018. 2,325 cases made.—B.S. This shows purity to the cherry, black currant and floral flavors, matched to a delicate frame. Stays bright, focused and moderately long. Drink now through 2018. 500 cases imported.—B.S.

T UNU S UA L G IN MOS

Leone de Castris Salento Rosato Five Roses 2014 $17 Watermelon and cherry notes are mixed with

Càntele Chardonnay Salento 2014 $15

Light-bodied and crisp, this stony Chardonnay offers crunchy Honeycrisp apple, apricot, lemon curd and orchard blossom notes, with a zesty finish. Drink now through 2018.

25,000 cases made.—A.N.

92 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Madonna del Piano Riserva 2009 $225 Aromas of sweet, ripe

cherry and strawberry are accented by woodsy and floral notes in this elegant, refreshing red. Firm yet harmonious, with a lingering finish of leather, tobacco and underbrush.

Drink now through 2024. 1,300 cases made.—B.S.

91 Antinori Brunello di Montalcino Pian delle Vigne Vignaferrovia Riserva 2009 $130 A dense,

muscular style, displaying cherry, plum, tobacco and spice flavors, backed by beefy tannins. This holds together nicely, finishing with tobacco and spice accents. Best from 2016 through 2025. 900 cases made.—B.S.

New Releases: Italy

Donna Olga Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2009 $95 Intense and powerful, this exhibits cherry,

Balanced and long, but needs time for all the components to emerge. Sangiovese and Malvasia Nera. Best from 2017 through 2028. 1,745 cases made.—B.S.

91

Offers enticing aromas of black currant, cherry, cedar, coffee, tobacco and herbs. Very Bordeaux-like, complex and classy, this is firmly tannic and just a little compact despite the long finish. Decant or cellar for a few years.

Cabernet Franc. Best from 2017 through 2024. 2,000 cases made.—B.S.

style, with dense, assertive tannins embracing the ripe cherry, blackberry, eucalyptus and tobacco fla- LEONARDO vors. A bit tight on the finish, but FRESCOBALDI Co-owner a grilled steak or chop will help.

Should benefit from time in the cellar. Best from 2016 through 2024. 1,333 cases made.—B.S.

This is perfumed, sinewy and taut, boasting cherry, black currant, earth, wild herb and tobacco aromas and flavors.

The tannins are assertive, but this shows balance overall, as well as a saline mineral element on the finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2017 through 2026. 9,000 cases made.—B.S.

91

Tenuta di Biserno Toscana Il Pino di Biserno 2012 $72 Bright cherry, cedar, herb, black pepper and

91

strawberry, floral and mineral flavors. Solidly structured, turning trim and focused on the lingering finish. Very fresh and balanced. Best from 2017 through 2028. 500 cases made.—B.S.

Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Brunello di Montalcino Castelgiocondo Ripe al Convento Riserva 2009 $138 A big, burly

Loacker Brunello di Montalcino Corte Pavone 2009 $80 This bright and well-defined red

exhibits vivid strawberry and cherry notes that are shaded by tobacco and mineral accents. The tannins are still on the aggressive side, but there’s ample fruit and sweetness for balance. Best from 2017 through 2029. 1,500 cases made.—B.S.

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94

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Le Macchiole Toscana Paleo Red 2011 $110

Tenuta Sette Ponti Toscana Oreno 2012 $108

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leather flavors mark this concentrated, lush red. Remains rich and monolithic on the long finish. Should find a better balance in a few years. Sangiovese. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2017 through 2023. 5,000 cases made.—B.S.

92

Bibi Graetz Toscana Colore 2009 $800

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Spuntali 2009 $100 Marked by new oak, this is spicy,

Powerful, with leather, plum tart, earth and tar flavors, backed by a vibrant structure. This shows heft, but a racy side lends definition to the refined finish. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Best from 2016 through 2025.

292 cases made.—B.S.

90 Castello

An incisive, yet firm and tightly wound style, with ample black cherry, leather, tar and briar flavors. The tannins are beefy and the acidity lively, imparting length and focus. Needs some time. Sangiovese. Best from 2017 through 2025. 835 cases made.—B.S.

with sweet cherry, smoke, tar and tobacco flavors underneath. Balanced toward the dense, muscular side, finishing fresh and long. Best from 2018 through 2026. 830 cases made.—B.S.

Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura Riserva 2009 $130 Dense and

angular, with cherry, plum and cranberry flavors supported by a vibrant structure. Stays fresh, but needs time to resolve the tannins and integrate more fully. Lingering finish. Best from 2017 through 2026. 1,050 cases made.—B.S.

90 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino Gualto

Riserva 2009 $55 This red puts forth a balanced mix of fresh cherry, strawberry, almond and spice flavors, with firm but not overbearing tannins. Elegant overall, with a lingering finish. Drink now through 2025. 12,500 cases made.—B.S.

90 Caparzo Brunello

di Montalcino Riserva

2009 $80 Starts out with rich cherry, berry, tobacco

and earth flavors, underlined by dusty tannins. Finishes on the firm side, but hangs together well. Best from 2017 through 2025. 2,000 cases made.—B.S.

90 Tenuta La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino Le

Due Sorelle Riserva 2009 $90 Strikes a balance between richness and dense tannins, with cherry and plum occupying the center ground. Still needs time to find equilibrium, but then should cruise for a few years. Offers a tobacco and underbrush aftertaste. Best from 2017 through 2030. 600 cases made.—B.S.

90 Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino Poggio

al Granchio 2009 $100 Ripe cherry and plum flavors are accented by notes of spice and tobacco in this openknit red, balanced by soft tannins that make the wine approachable now. Drink now through 2023. 830 cases made.—B.S.

Tuscany / Toscana Red

94

Antinori Toscana Solaia 2011 $325

See

Collectibles, page 80.

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92

Bibi Graetz Toscana Testamatta 2011 $150

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Le Macchiole Toscana Scrio 2011 $175 A meaty, peppery version, with ample plum and blackberry fruit. The tannins are well-integrated. Concludes with echoes of spice and tobacco. Syrah. Drink now through 2022. 415 cases made.—B.S.

90 Castellare di Castellina Toscana Poggio ai

Merli 2013 $110 Rich and vibrant, offering black cherry, blackberry and spice flavors. The fruit is backed by firm, chewy tannins, but the acidity keeps this in gear on the lingering finish. Merlot. Best from 2017 through 2023. 250 cases made.—B.S.

Barone Ricasoli Toscana Casalferro 2011 $65

See Highly Recommended, page 79.

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Castellare di Castellina Toscana I Sodi di San Niccolò 2011 $90 Dense, yet lively and focused,

AM

O S T UNU S UA L G I N

90 Cecchi Toscana Coevo 2011 $106 Aromatic, revealing spice, tobacco and underbrush flavors around the core of cherry and plum. Overall, this is compact, and needs a year to settle down. Fine length. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2016 through 2025. 1,250 cases made.—B.S. 90 Marchesi

de’ Frescobaldi Toscana Mormoreto 2011 $80 A dose of pure black cherry, tobacco

and spice rides the dusty tannins in this fluid red. Firms up on the finish, persisting with spice and dusty cherry notes. Fine length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2020. 5,000 cases made.—B.S.

5 parts HENDRICK’S GIN 1 part dry vermouth 1 cucumber wheel to garnish

90 Bibi Graetz Toscana Soffocone di Vincigliata

2012 $64 Cherry, raspberry and tobacco notes are matched to an elegant yet tight frame. Tense and defined, with very good length. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino.

Best from 2016 through 2024. 1,665 cases made.—B.S.

ITALY

MARTINI

90 Podere

Monastero Cabernet SauvignonMerlot Toscana Campanaio 2013 $50 A racy,

mouthwatering style, with cherry, herb and spice flavors, picking up a hint of licorice. The texture is on the chewy side, yet this remains fresh and focused. Best from 2016 through 2022. 42 cases imported.—B.S.

hilled, chilled mar

. Gar ve.

PLEASE ENJOY THE UNUSUAL RESPONSIBLY HENDRICK’S GIN, 44% ALC./VOL. ©2015 IMPORTED BY WILLIAM GRANT & SONS, INC. NEW YORK, NY.

revealing black cherry, plum, spice and licorice flavors.

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 91

New Releases: Italy / New Zealand / Portugal

90 Podere Monastero Pinot Nero Toscana La

Pineta 2013 $60 This is fruity, displaying black cherry and blackberry flavors, with hints of spice. Concentrated and supple, presenting a lingering aftertaste of dark berry and spice. Drink now through 2018. 48 cases imported.—B.S.

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Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Toscana Tenuta Frescobaldi di Castiglioni 2012 $25 A good dose

of new oak and tense tannins make this red lean and angular, with cherry and berry flavors allied to firm tannins.

Moderately long. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese. Best from 2017 through 2023. 35,556 cases made.—B.S.

mineral details. Supple and mouthwatering, showing good focus through to the lingering, well-spiced finish. Best from 2017 through 2027. 1,200 cases made.—A.N.

91

Tabarrini Montefalco Sagrantino Colle Grimaldesco 2010 $50 Abundant medicinal herb

and spice notes are layered with ripe and juicy red currant and blackberry fruit in this firm, sculpted red. Mediumbodied and minerally, with a long-lasting, racy finish that carries the aromatic character. Best from 2018 through 2028. 1,170 cases made.—A.N.

90 d’Angelo Aglianico

del Vulture Caselle

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Riserva 2008 $45 Creamy and fresh, with dried strawberry, bergamot and raisin bread flavors, this mediumbodied red shows light tannins and fine balance.

Mouthwatering and very drinkable. Drink now through 2020. 250 cases imported.—A.N.

ITALY

A tightly knit red, layering sanguine notes of seared beef with ripe and tangy blackberry, black currant, grilled herb and black olive flavors. Firmly structured by dusty tannins, driven through the spiced finish by racy acidity.

Drink now through 2025. 4,400 cases made.—A.N.

Tuscany / Other

90 Signae Montefalco Riserva 2008 $34

88

Bibi Graetz Toscana Casamatta Red NV $12

See Best Values, page 82.

Poggiotondo Toscana 2012 $11 This red starts out with strawberry and raspberry flavors, accented by light spice and tobacco notes. Firms up on the finish.

Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. Best from 2016 through 2020. 800 cases imported.—B.S.

96

Avignonesi Vin Santo di Montepulciano Occhio di Pernice 2000 $280/375ml Caramel,

licorice, orange peel and roasted walnut aromas give way to burnt molasses, smoke and mineral flavors in this thick, mouthcoating dessert wine. Stays balanced and long, with a fresh, light-footed finish. Drink now through 2035. 15 cases imported.—B.S.

94

Avignonesi Vin Santo di Montepulciano 2000 $220/375ml Aromas and flavors of fresh me-

dicinal herbs, coffee, caramel and molasses highlight this intense and concentrated yet ultimately elegant dessert white. The acidity must be off the charts to balance this level of sweetness. The finish goes on and on. Drink now through 2030. 15 cases imported.—B.S.

90 Le Macchiole Bolgheri 2012 $32 Flavors of cherry, tobacco and spice are balanced by the structure in this elegant, athletic red, which is tense and long, ending with a spice-infused aftertaste. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Best from 2017 through 2024. 8,165 cases made.—B.S. 90 Bibi Graetz Toscana White Bugia 2013

$79

Rich and ripe, this white boasts guava, pineapple and apricot flavors. Viscous in texture, this finishes with a light earthiness. Vibrant and long. Ansonica. Drink now.

250 cases made.—B.S

89 Barone Ricasoli Bolgheri 2013 $40 A supple and harmonious red, with cherry, black currant and spice flavors unfolding through the lingering finish. Should be better in a few months. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2016 through 2023. 2,500 cases made.—B.S. 89

Grattamacco Vermentino Bolgheri 2013 $50

Straw, grapefruit, petrol and white pepper flavors mark this rich, almost oily white. Peach and apricot notes linger in the background. Focused and salty, with a minerally aftertaste. Drink now through 2018. 833 cases made.—B.S.

89

Le Macchiole Toscana Paleo White 2013 $75

Spice notes lead off, followed by rich flavors of tropical fruit. These two elements dovetail on the finish. Balanced and long overall, with well-integrated oak. Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2018. 300 cases made.—B.S.

ITALY Other

92

Elena Fucci Aglianico del Vulture Titolo 2012

$85 Firm tannins support a palate brimming with ripe

black cherry and plum sauce flavors, accented by fresh brown bread, grilled herb, espresso and graphite-tinged

90 Cecchi Montefalco Sagrantino 2010

$43

This well-knit, medium-bodied red is framed by sculpted tannins, with oak spice, violet and smoke notes underscoring crushed black and red currant, graphite, cured tobacco and licorice string flavors. Medium-bodied, with a firm, juicy finish. Best from 2018 through 2025. 800 cases made.—A.N.

88

Fattoria La Rivolta Aglianico del Taburno 2011 $23 Plush-textured and balanced, with flavors of

plum cake, date and leather, accented by notes of Asian five-spice powder and smoke. Medium-bodied, presenting a lightly chewy finish. Drink now through 2021. 2,000 cases imported.—A.N.

88

Villa Matilde Greco di Tufo Tenute di Altavilla 2013 $22 A chalky white, featuring crisp acidity

layered with lightly honeyed flavors of white peach, star fruit, stone and sliced almond. Drink now through 2018.

1,800 cases made.—A.N.

92 Kumeu River Chardonnay Kumeu Hunting Hill 2012 $49 Tangy lemon meringue,

honey and pear flavors show an appealing buttery note, with floral and spice highlights, a delicate but refreshing acidity and silky texture.

Plenty of spice and Meyer lemon notes crescendo on the finish.

Drink now through 2020. 1,100 cases made.—M.W.

MICHAEL BRAJKOVICH Winemaker

91 Waipara Springs Chardonnay Waipara Premo Reserve 2012 $25 There’s a lovely tropical

edge here, with mango and pineapple flavors gracing the core of lemon, apple and peach notes. Smooth and graceful, but with plenty of power and juiciness, finishing with spice and lemon thyme details. Drink now through 2020.

1,500 cases made.—M.W.

90 Kumeu River Chardonnay Kumeu Coddington 2012 $45 Shows terrific tension between the nervy

acidity, fresh fruit flavors and minerally details. The lemon and lime zest, green apple and green papaya notes are crisp and clean, while details of lemon thyme, crushed rock and white flowers add extra dimension. Drink now. 850 cases made.—M.W.

88 Kumeu River Chardonnay Kumeu Kumeu Village 2012 $20 Tangy lemon and lime notes are

juicy and refreshing, with grapefruit pith, green apple and rosemary flavors on a light body, showing a touch of minerality. Delivers terrific intensity, with a mouthwatering finish. Drink now. 7,500 cases made.—M.W.

88

Stoneleigh Chardonnay Marlborough Latitude 2013 $18 Juicy and crisp, with a hint of fresh

pineapple that complements the lemon, apple, peach and pear flavors. Powerful and refreshing, finishing with floral grace notes. Drink now. 2,000 cases imported.—M.W.

87 $18

Sacred Hill Chardonnay Hawkes Bay 2013

d’Angelo Basilicata Sacravite 2012 $15 An

A pretty white, with citrus and floral splashes to the pear and yellow apple notes, set in a smooth, juicy package. Finishes on a peach accent. Drink now. 57,000 cases made.—M.W.

87 Fiorini Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Becco Rosso NV $17 A subtle, aromatic thread

Bright and lemony, set on a medium body, with plenty of lemon meringue, toasted cedar and citrus zest notes. Tangy acidity shows on the finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.—M.W.

87

earthy red, with lots of spice and hints of leather, herb and chocolate-covered cherry. Balanced and juicy, with a moderate, silky finish. Drink now through 2018. 3,000 cases imported.—A.N.

of spice box and cocoa powder accents notes of wild berry and herbes de Provence in this elegant, well-balanced and mouthwatering Lambrusco. Drink now. 1,200 cases made.—A.N.

87

Signae Umbria Rossobastardo 2012 $20

Sweet oak spice and licorice notes are layered with ripe black cherry, baked currant, mocha and smoke accents in this medium-bodied red, with light tannins and a chewy finish. Sangiovese and Merlot with Sagrantino and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2018. 8,500 cases made.—A.N.

86

Iovine Penisola Sorrentina Gragnano 2013 $17 Spiced plum and pureed blackberry flavors are lively

and fruit-forward in this crisp, lightly sparkling red, with accents of herb, spice and mocha showing on the juicy finish. Piedirosso, Aglianico and Sciascinoso. Drink now.

12,500 cases made.—A.N.

86

Babich Chardonnay Hawkes Bay 2014 $15

PORTUGAL Alentejo

91

Cortes de Címa Alentejo Homenagem A Hans Christian Andersen 2011 $45 Big, rich

and well-spiced, with pure flavors of blueberry, dark plum and dark cherry. Features notes of dried meat midpalate, followed by a luscious finish of chocolate mousse and cream. Drink now through 2018.

1,000 cases made.—K.M.

91

HANS & CARRIE JORGENSEN Owners

Susana Esteban Alentejo Procura 2012 $50

Chardonnay

A plush and pure-tasting style, with loads of boysenberry and lingonberry flavors, supported by fresh acidity. Slate and Asian spice notes fill the minerally finish. Drink now through 2018. 200 cases made.—K.M.

93

90 Luis Duarte Vinhos Alentejo Rubrica 2011

orange marmalade flavors, juicy lemon and pear notes and a smooth, lush texture. There’s plenty of juiciness on the finish, and details of lemon verbena and apple blossom.

Drink now through 2020. 150 cases imported.—M.W.

of red plum, crushed cherry and spice. Sandalwood notes linger on the finish, with touches of white pepper. Drink now through 2018. 2,500 cases made.—K.M.

NEW ZEALAND Greywacke Chardonnay Marlborough 2012 $39 Fragrant and intense, with honeysuckle, ginger and

$25 This ripe style offers juicy and well-spiced flavors

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 93

New Releases: Portugal

90 Susana

Esteban Alentejo White Procura

2013 $40 A floral, rich and savory white, showing an

93

Quinta do Crasto Tinta Roriz Douro 2012 $81

notes of green olive. Rich, beefy hints linger on the broad, supple finish. Drink now. 1,250 cases made.—K.M.

array of tropical and white fruit flavors, seamlessly blended.

Features a polished texture, presenting notes of tarragon cream and sage honey on the plush, well-structured finish. Try with rich seafood dishes. Drink now through 2018.

200 cases made.—K.M.

This big and rich-tasting red is generously spiced, with luscious flavors of dark currant, black olive, and damson plum, supported by crisp acidity. Dark chocolate and licorice notes appear on the firm, tannic finish, revealing hints of cardamom. Best from 2016 through 2020. 741 cases made.—K.M.

Redolent of crushed red fruits, this is fresh-tasting, with a sleek structure. Flavors of hot stone, plum tart and sandalwood dominate. Finishes with notes of cocoa powder and cream. Drink now through 2019. 1,500 cases made.—K.M.

90 Encosta do Guadiana Alentejo Herdade Paço

93

90 Real Companhia Velha Douro Evel Reserva

do Conde Winemakers Selection 2011 $29

Big, rich and ripe, with concentrated flavors of chocolate mousse, dark plum and mocha, filled with Asian spice notes. Hickory accents show on the finish. Drink now through 2018. 1,000 cases made.—K.M.

89

Duorum Douro O. Leucura Cota 200 Reserva 2008 $90 Vibrant and rich-tasting, with firm, savory and plush flavors of hot stone, roasted plum and cherry tart that are fresh and well-spiced. Paprika notes chime in, leading to a finish that resonates with roast beef, mineral and savory spice elements. Drink now through 2022.

30 cases imported.—K.M.

Luis Duarte Vinhos Alentejo Rapariga da Quinta Reserva 2012 $27 Ripe and richly spiced,

93

89

blackberry, mineral and cocoa powder, framed by mediumgrained tannins. Very creamy midpalate, presenting a finish that is rich with chocolate, slate and white pepper hints. Drink now through 2020. 347 cases made.—K.M.

with layered flavors of cherry tart, plum preserves and pastry. Asian spice and chocolate notes fill the rich finish. Drink now through 2018. 3,000 cases made.—K.M.

Susana Esteban Alentejo Red Aventura 2013 $18 An open-textured and vibrant red, with flavors of

red plum, blackberry and raspberry, flanked by lively notes of forest floor. The minerally finish features accents of tar and spice. Drink now. 800 cases made.—K.M.

89

Tahora Alentejo Medeiros Reserva 2011 $38

A suave red, with a deep well of dark plum, dark cherry and baker’s chocolate flavors that are rich and full-bodied.

Creamy midpalate, delivering a long finish filled with Asian spice notes. Drink now through 2018. 400 cases made.—K.M.

Lemos & van Zeller Douro Van Zellers Red 2012 $45 Lusciously spiced, with generous flavors of

92

Duorum Douro O. Leucura Cota 400 Reserva 2008 $90 An elegant and well-crafted red, with in-

tense red berry and plum flavors, supported by lots of crunchy acidity. Tangerine and orange pekoe tea notes show midpalate, leading to a spicy finish that jumps out of the glass. Drink now through 2022. 30 cases imported.—K.M.

92

Lemos & van Zeller Douro Quinta Vale D. Maria Vinha Do Rio 2012 $120 This is deep, rich

90 CAP Wine Douro Barco Negro 2012

$12

2010 $30 A luscious and juicy style, with unctuous minerality and plenty of viscosity to the bramble, hot stone and dried raspberry flavors. Shows hints of white pepper and cinnamon on the complex and fresh-tasting finish. Drink now through 2018. 5,000 cases made.—K.M.

90 Real

Companhia Velha Douro Porca de Murça Red 2013 $10 See Best Values, page 81.

90 Quinta de la Rosa Douro 2011

$26 A big, strapping red, with well-rounded flavors of boysenberry and roasted plum, accented by concentrated spice and green olive notes. The finish lengthens out, with accents of dried beef and hoisin sauce. Drink now through 2018.

4,750 cases made.—K.M.

90 Caves Transmontanas Douro Vértice Grande Reserva 2010 $28 Lively and fresh-tasting, with an

engaging spiciness to the mineral and red fruit flavors.

Red plum and cherry notes dominate. Accents of sandalwood and cardamom linger on the juicy finish. Drink now through 2018. 650 cases made.—K.M.

89

Caves Aliança Douro Foral Reserva 2013 $18

and intense, with refined flavors of violet and red plum, featuring plenty of spicy notes. Pepper accents show midpalate, leading to a long, vibrant and fresh-tasting finish, accented by hints of sandalwood and cream. Drink now through 2020. 241 cases made.—K.M.

Dried dark plum and berry flavors feature plenty of graphite notes in this muscular style. Hot stone accents show as well, with molten chocolate and Asian spice hints on the rich finish. Drink now through 2018. 6,500 cases made.—K.M.

89

flavors of plum and cherry. The tannins emerge on the spicy finish. Aragonez, Trincadeira and Castelão. Drink now. 2,000 cases imported.—K.M.

91 Quinta do Crasto Douro 2013 $20 Powerful, with concentrated slate and mineral notes to the dark currant, dried berry and raspberry ganache flavors. Very lithe midpalate, offering flint and black olive hints on the long, focused finish. Drink now through 2020. 16,083 cases made.—K.M.

86

91

89

88

Luis Duarte Vinhos Alentejo Rapariga da Quinta 2012 $22 Medium-bodied, with notes of sa-

vory herb to the red berry and cherry flavors. Offers lively minerality, with notes of truffle on the richly spiced finish. Drink now. 2,500 cases made.—K.M.

87

João Portugal Ramos Alentejo Vila Santa Loios Red 2014 $9 A supple red, with direct, juicy

João Portugal Ramos Alentejo Ramos Premium 2012 $18 Ripe and juicy, with flavors of raspberry and dried blackberry, accented by mocha notes.

Brambly hints show on the chewy finish. Drink now. 1,000 cases imported.—K.M.

PORTUGAL Douro / Red

96

Quinta do Crasto Douro Vinha da Ponte 2012

$160 See Collectibles, page 79.

Duorum Douro 2013 $20 This has a delicate core of violet, plum and red berry flavors that are broad yet well-defined. Medium-grained tannins gain power midpalate, with mineral and shiso leaf notes on the taut finish. Drink now through 2020. 600 cases imported.—K.M.

91

Lemos & van Zeller Douro Quinta Vale D. Maria 2012 $50 Plush and rich-tasting, with a core

of powerful dark plum, dried blackberry and black currant flavors. Black olive notes linger with accents of baker’s chocolate on the creamy finish. Drink now through 2018.

1,828 cases made.—K.M.

95

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that are woven between ripe dark plum, blackberry and dried blueberry flavors. Chocolate mousse accents linger on the long, creamy finish, with some savory hints. Complex. Drink now through 2022. 775 cases made.—K.M.

An elegant red, with pure, concentrated flavors of raspberry, sandalwood, plum tart and boysenberry that are well-structured. Notes of hot stone and cream linger on the explosively spicy and supple finish. Drink now through 2020. 130 cases imported.—K.M.

94

Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva Old Vines 2012 $49 See Highly Recommended, page 79.

91

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and richness to the flavors of crushed dark plum, dried beef and cocoa powder, with luscious minty notes. Very refined midpalate, showing a vibrant minerality. Hints of dark chocolate mousse fill the creamy finish. Drink now through 2020. 10,000 cases made.—K.M.

Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional Douro 2012 $81 Big and rich, this is full of Asian spice notes

Lemos & van Zeller Douro Quinta Vale D. Maria Vinha Da Francisca 2012 $90 A voluptuous

red, filled with richly spicy flavors of damson plum, violet and red plum. Features a broad, plush texture, with silky tannins and plenty of creamy notes. Finishes with hints of white pepper and cocoa powder. Drink now through 2022. 667 cases made.—K.M.

93

Quinta do Crasto Douro Superior 2012 $30

Well-crafted and suave, with refined flavors of raspberry tart, red plum and cherry pastry, matched to cardamom and savory spice notes. Silky tannins and a plush, creamy finish offer chocolate mousse accents. Drink now through 2022. 15,166 cases made.—K.M.

Quinta do Passadouro Douro 2012 $25

Real Companhia Velha Douro Quinta dos Aciprestes Reserva 2012 $20 Crushed red plum and spiced cherry notes dominate this fresh and lively red, which offers a crisp structure and minerality. White pepper hints emerge on the finish, with forest floor accents.

Drink now through 2018. 5,000 cases made.—K.M.

89 Terroir de Origem Douro Tom de Baton 2011 $18 Balanced and fresh-tasting, with concentrated red

currant and boysenberry flavors that are long and lush.

The plummy finish is spicy and juicy. Drink now. 7,500 cases made.—K.M.

PORTUGAL Douro / White

93

Lemos & van Zeller Douro VZ Van Zellers White 2013 $45 A suave, refined white, filled luscious

Real Companhia Velha Douro Porca de Murça Red Reserva 2011 $18 Shows plenty of power

Gala apple, pear tart and lanolin flavors, all supported by firm acidity. Fresh and lively midpalate, with a powerfully spicy and rich-tasting finish. Drink now through 2022.

245 cases made.—K.M.

91

A finely sculpted white, with an alluring spicy and creamy aroma, featuring flavors of pear tart, peach cobbler and baked apple that are rich and lush. Minerally and smoky hints power the finish, revealing accents of dried mint.

Drink now through 2019. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 550 cases made.—K.M.

Rozès Douro Terras do Grifo Red 2012 $17

An elegant and refined red, with concentrated flavors and aromas of violet, macerated cherry and crushed red plum, supported by fresh acidity. The finish is crisp and minerally. Drink now through 2019. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 6,000 cases made.—K.M.

90 Caves

Aliança Douro Quinta dos Quatro Ventos Reserva 2008 $75 A savory, full-bodied red, with flavors of dried cherry and plum tart, matched to

94 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

Duorum Douro Tons Red 2013 $12 Offering aromas of mineral and hot stone, with flavors to match, this red is elegant and broad-textured. Crushed red plum and red currant notes dominate, accented by hints of beef carpaccio. Silky tannins show on the creamy finish. Drink now through 2019. 3,000 cases imported.—K.M.

92

Wine & Soul Douro White Guru 2013 $45

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Quinta do Vallado Douro White Reserva 2013 $50 Ripe citrus and apple pastry flavors fill this

spicy, well-structured white. Toast notes show midpalate, with a minerally finish that offers tangerine and lemon curd accents. Drink now through 2020. 780 cases made.—K.M.

New Releases: Portugal / Spain

90 Real

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textured, with concentrated flavors of lemon meringue, apple tart and gooseberry that are well-structured and liberally spiced. The minerally finish ends on a creamy note.

Drink now through 2020. 5,000 cases made.—K.M.

Floral and mineral notes frame ripe blackberry and currant flavors in this bold, modern red. Firm tannins give this backbone, balancing the racy edge of acidity, which yields to a spicy, mineral-tinged finish. Not quite harmonious now, but expressive and complex. Best from 2016 through 2024. 34 cases imported.—T.M.

Companhia Velha Douro Porca de Murça White Reserva 2013 $18 Supple and open-

90 Quinta de la Rosa Douro dou Rosa White

2013 $15 A vibrant and rich-tasting white, with plenty of baked apple, honey citrus and white currant flavors, supported by firm acidity. Intense minerality emerges on the spice- and cream-filled finish. Drink now through 2020. 1,000 cases made.—K.M.

89

Casa Ferreirinha Douro White Planalto Reserva 2013 $15 A fruity, juicy white, with green

apple, peach and currant flavors, reminiscent of Riesling.

Spice and slate notes show on the crunchy finish. Drink now through 2019. 108,000 cases made.—K.M.

89

Real Companhia Velha Douro Evel White 2013 $13 Features fine cut and good length to mineral-

accented flavors of grapefruit, gooseberry and green apple.

Floral notes chime in, presenting a finish loaded with spice, dried mint and shiso leaf details. Drink now through 2019. 12,500 cases made.—K.M.

PORTUGAL Other

91

Quinta de Lemos Dão Dona Santana 2009 $25 Focused and pure-tasting, offering powerfully crisp

flavors of dark currant, cherry and crushed red plum, accented by slate and white pepper notes. Medium-grained tannins show on the spicy finish. Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Jaen and Alfrocheiro. Drink now through 2019.

112 cases imported.—K.M.

91

Poeira Duriense White 2013 $45 A firm and

powerfully structured white, with vibrant apple, green pear and marzipan flavors. Hints of dried herb appear midpalate. The long finish features plenty of butter and spice details. Drink now through 2020. 275 cases made.—K.M.

90 Quinta de Lemos Touriga Nacional Dão 2009

$35 A fresh and fruity style, with loads of crushed red plum and dark cherry flavors. Lengthens out, with forest floor elements. Dark currant and spice hints show on the finish, which features some graphite details. Drink now through 2018. 67 cases imported.—K.M.

90 Vadio Bairrada 2011 $20

A refined red, with precise and elegant flavors of crushed red berry and cherry tart. Hot stone and spice notes show midpalate, with an elegant finish of sandalwood. Impressive for the appellation. Drink now through 2020. 1,250 cases made.—K.M.

87

João Portugal Ramos Loureiro Vinho Verde Lima 2014 $8 This fruity and aromatic white offers

$120

Artadi Rioja La Poza de Ballesteros 2012

93

El Coto de Rioja Rioja Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva 2005 $44 Focused and vibrant, this traditional red has bright flavors of dried cherry, tobacco, orange peel and spice. Light tannins and citrusy acidity keep this lively. Though the flavors are maturing, the wine remains fresh. Drink now through 2020. 120 cases imported.—T.M.

93

Cune Rioja Pagos de Viña Real 2010 $110

The plush texture cloaks a firm structure in this powerful red. Black cherry, toasty vanilla and spice flavors lean toward sweetness, but graphite, leafy and orange peel notes keep this balanced, with good density. Drink now through 2020. 100 cases imported.—T.M.

92

Bodegas Dinastía Vivanco Rioja Reserva 2010 $25 This dense red delivers a mouthful of flavor,

with rich notes of plum pudding, baking spices, coffee and toasty vanilla. The full, plush texture is supported by wellintegrated tannins and just enough acidity to stay fresh.

A modern style. Drink now through 2022.—T.M.

92

Bodegas Ontañon Rioja Gran Reserva 2005 $46 Tobacco and iron notes give this full-bodied red a

sanguine character, but plum, rhubarb, licorice and orange marmalade flavors add depth and balance. Maturing, but still generous and lively. Drink now through 2020. 1,000 cases imported.—T.M.

91

Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Reserva 2010 $25

See Smart Buys, page 81.

91

Bodegas Franco-Españolas Rioja Bordón Gran Reserva 2006 $24 A polished texture delivers

flavors of vanilla, candied orange peel and tobacco, framing a core of dried cherry and spice notes. Light, firm tannins and bright acidity keep this lively. A traditional style, with bright energy. Drink now through 2018. 6,500 cases made.—T.M.

91

$40

Bodegas Ondarre Rioja Mayor Reserva 2010

This graceful red delivers harmonious flavors of cherry, plum, tobacco, mineral, toast and spice, with a good balance of fruit and savory notes. Not muscular, but expressive, spicy and long. Drink now through 2022. 2,500 cases made.—T.M.

90 El Coto de Rioja Rioja Coto de Imaz Reserva 2010 $24

Vibrant and spicy, this lively red delivers bright cherry, berry, vanilla and toast flavors, with citrusy acidity and light, firm tannins. Focused and graceful. Drink now through 2020. 10,000 cases imported.—T.M.

90 Bodegas Ondarre Rioja Reserva 2010

$18

refreshing flavors of Fuji apple and Asian spice, with an intense floral finish. A fine aperitif. Drink now. 4,500 cases imported.—K.M.

See Smart Buys, page 81.

SPAIN

90 Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega

Rioja

94 Viñedos Lacalle y Laorden Rioja Viña El Pison 2012 $300 This modern red shows impressive

density, with firm tannins and racy acidity giving structure to the ripe blackberry, cassis, espresso, tobacco and mineral flavors. The finish is clean, with lingering floral, spice and vanilla notes. Drink now through 2027. 60 cases imported.—T.M.

93

Artadi Rioja El Carretil 2012 $190 This bold red is dense and rich, with ripe blackberry and currant flavors, backed by graphite, dark chocolate and toasty notes. Racy acidity keeps this focused, grounded by a thread of minerality. A modern style. Drink now through 2022. 40 cases imported.—T.M.

90 Bodegas Palacios Remondo Garnacha Rioja La Montesa 2012 $21 See Smart Buys, page 81.

Sicilia Rioja Macán Clásico 2010 $55 This firm red shows a savory character, with tobacco, licorice and dried herb notes. A core of cherry fruit keeps this balanced, showing a structure of firm tannins and balsamic acidity. Drink now through 2020. 3,000 cases made.—T.M.

89

Artadi Rioja Valdegines 2012 $65 This thick red shows good density, with a chewy texture delivering extracted flavors of crushed blackberry, tar, licorice and toast. Features firm tannins and balsamic acidity. A bit clumsy now, but has ample stuffing. Best from 2016 through 2022. 95 cases imported.—T.M.

ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 95

New Releases: Spain / UNITED STATES / California

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Eguren Ugarte Rioja Martin Cendoya Reserva 2009 $35 Black cherry, licorice and espresso flavors

are focused and expressive in this solid red, which features firm, well-integrated tannins and bright balsamic acidity.

A bit earthy in character, but shows good depth. Drink now through 2021.—T.M.

89

Marqués de Riscal Rioja Arienzo Crianza 2010 $13 See Best Values, page 82.

89

Bodegas Valdemar Rioja Conde Valdemar Reserva 2008 $37 Flavors of black cherry, berry com-

DISCOVER SINGLE VINEYARD NEW ZEALAND

pote, licorice and dark chocolate are generous and expressive in this polished, supple red. Shows a nice balance of fruity and savory notes. Drink now through 2018. 10,000 cases made.—T.M.

88

Bodegas Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva 2009 $16 Aromatic, with tobacco, spice box and cedar notes,

this supple red offers dried cherry, herb and smoky flavors.

Modest but focused, gaining balance from the light tannins and fresh acidity. Drink now through 2017. 45,000 cases imported.—T.M.

88

Pagos del Rey Rioja Arnegui Reserva 2010

$22 Bright cherry, licorice, vanilla and cranberry flavors mingle in this vivid red. Offers a round, airy texture, with hard-candy acidity backing the light tannins. Drink now through 2018. 40,000 cases made.—T.M.

88 Find Ara Wines near you, visit: arawines.com Imported by Seaview Imports Call: (516) 918-6239 Email: info@seaviewimports.com Please enjoy these sustainably crafted wines responsibly.

FRANCIS AN

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Bodegas Palacios Remondo Rioja La Vendimia 2013 $17 Leafy, smoky and spicy notes frame a

core of cherry and licorice in this savory red. Features well-integrated tannins and fresh acidity. Lively and balanced. Drink now through 2020. 39,000 cases made.—T.M.

88

Marqués de Riscal Rioja Reserva 2009 $20

This polished red offers cherry, licorice, dried herb and toasty flavors, with light, firm tannins and balsamic acidity. Balanced, featuring enough structure for food. Drink now through 2017. 135,000 cases made.—T.M.

88

Bodegas Valdemar Garnacha Rioja Conde de Valdemar Old Vines 2012 $24 Graphite and to-

bacco notes frame cherry and red plum flavors in this fresh red. Light, firm tannins support the thick texture, while orange peel acidity keeps this focused. Restrained and balanced. Drink now through 2020. 3,000 cases made.—T.M.

87

Bodega Classica Rioja Hacienda Lopez de Haro Crianza 2012 $12 Ripe black cherry and plum flavors mingle with vanilla and orange marmalade notes in this plump red. The soft, full texture has just enough tannins and acidity to stay focused. Drink now through 2018. 200,000 cases made.—T.M.

87

Heredad Ugarte Rioja 2012 $12

Firm and crisp, this red delivers black cherry, leafy, tobacco and smoke flavors that stay focused and savory through the clean finish. Drink now through 2018.—T.M.

87

Faustino Rivero Ulecia Rioja Yellow Label Crianza 2012 $11 This fresh red offers crisp flavors of cherry, tobacco leaf and mineral, with firm tannins and lively acidity. Polished and balanced. Drink now through 2018. 500 cases imported.—T.M.

SPAIN Rueda

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Bodegas Naia Rueda 2014 $17 Pear and apple flavors mingle with toast and mineral notes in this polished, modern white, which shows depth and focus, with firm acidity and a smoky finish. Drink now through 2017. 6,000 cases imported.—T.M.

87

Bodega Burdigala Rueda Campo Alegre 2014 $20 Fresh and focused, this white delivers pear,

ARA VINEYARD, SEPTEMBER 2014

96 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

green apple, ginger and almond flavors, backed by lively acidity. Offers good energy, with a clean finish. Drink now.

7,000 cases made.—T.M.

86 Marqués de Riscal Rueda 2014 $10 Citrus, mint and fresh herb flavors mingle in this bright white.

Shows focus and energy, with a tangy lemon-lime center.

Drink now. 205,000 cases made.—T.M. 86

Telmo Rodríguez Rueda Basa 2014 $15

Crisp and lively, this refreshing white exhibits bright flavors of lime, crunchy green apple and fresh herbs, with good focus and tangy acidity. Drink now. 5,000 cases imported.—T.M.

85 Bodegas PradoRey Rueda 2014 $11 Firm acidity carries juicy pear, apple and green almond flavors in this fresh white, which has a polished texture and a clean finish. Drink now. 30,000 cases made.—T.M.

United States CALIFORNIA Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends

96

Tor Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Tierra Roja Vineyard 2012 $150 Combines power and finesse,

offering a firm, dense, chewy core of mocha-scented blackberry, cassis, crushed rock, loamy earth, cedar, cigar box and exotic spice, ending with firm, smoky tannins and a midpalate sweetness that adds a measure of intrigue and nuance. Drink now through 2030. 315 cases made.—J.L.

95

Memento Mori Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2012 $175 A tremendous effort, exhibiting a

smoky, charred brownie edge to the dark berry, espresso, loamy earth and dried herb flavors. Intense and focused, maintaining a core of mocha, berry and licorice while revealing a more supple, graceful presence amid the chewy tannins. Drink now through 2030. 704 cases made.—J.L.

95 Tor Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Beckstoffer To Kalon 2012 $150 Direct and powerful, this

full-throttle Cabernet offers a dense core of extracted blackberry, black cherry, cassis, mocha, loamy earth, cedar and tobacco leaf flavors. Ends with cedary oak and gripping tannins, but this is ultimately graceful given the size and scope. Drink now through 2030. 975 cases made.—J.L.

94 Morgado Oakville 2012 $90 Big and powerful, yet with points of tenderness and finesse. The core flavors offer a complex weave of dark berry, mocha, cedar, loamy earth, black licorice and dusty oak, easing up a bit on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2030. 100 cases made.—J.L. 93 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Signature 2012 $56 A classy—and classic—

Napa Cabernet, dark-colored, with rich blackberry, black licorice, cedar, tobacco and dusty, loamy earth notes. The brightness and density of the red and dark berry fruit gives this an immediate and alluring charm. Ends with gutsy, chewy tannins. Drink now through 2030. 11,200 cases made.—J.L.

93

Kinsella Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley Tamara Vineyard 2012 $125 This enjoyable

version exhibits a rich, complex core of mocha-laced dark berry, graphite, crushed rock, black licorice and integrated herb flavors, all well-distributed and maintaining focus on the long, persistent finish. Ends with ripe, chewy tannins. Drink now through 2030. 180 cases made.—J.L.

93 PlumpJack Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville McWilliams Oakville Vineyard 2012 $104 Firm, dense and chewy, with a wall of extracted tannins and flavors of dark berry, mocha and blackberry amid a loamy earth and crushed rock minerality. The fruit pushes through on the finish against clinging tannins. Drink now through 2030. 7,550 cases made.—J.L.

93 Realm Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Napa Valley 2012 $175 Powerfully built, dense and chewy, yet with

a measure of finesse and refinement that gives the blackberry, licorice and cedary flavors a pleasant lift, offering

New Releases: California dried herb, mocha and loamy earth accents. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2028.

400 cases made.—J.L.

93

Realm Beckstoffer To Kalon Napa Valley 2012 $175 Exhibits complex tiers of blackberry, licorice, cedar, earth and berry pie. Expansive and elegant for its size, this is impressive on the finish, offering impressive length and breath of flavors, tightening on the finish.

Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2029. 500 cases made.—J.L.

92

Frei Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Reserve 2012 $27 See Smart Buys, page 80.

89

Amici Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve 2012 $80 Offers aromas of tar, dusty oak,

cedar, green olive and dried herb, with a core of chewy dark berry, mineral and crushed rock. Finishes with gripping tannins. Drink now through 2026. 1,000 cases made.—J.L.

89 Charles Krug Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley X Clones Limited Release 2012 $100 A sleek, refined effort, with a trim mix of spicy red and dark berry and black licorice flavors. Firm, fine-grained tannins fold in. Ends on a delicate note. Drink now through 2028. 360 cases made.—J.L.

89

Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2012 $85 Rich and pure, with dark, dense blackberry

92

and wild berry fruit. The tannins are grippy and edgy, yet the chocolate-covered cherry flavors push through on the finish. Drink now through 2026. 781 cases made.—J.L.

amid rich, creamy layers of mocha, blackberry, cassis and black licorice. Unfolds to reveals firm, chewy tannins, with a dusty, cedary element. Drink now through 2025.

500 cases made.—J.L.

89

Cameron Hughes Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Valley Lot 515 Monte Rosso Vineyard 2012 $32 Combines intense Cabernet fruit with a rustic edge

92

Realm The Absurd Napa Valley 2012 $225

Dark and dense, with pure, powerful blackberry, mocha, graphite, crushed rock, roasted coffee and black licorice flavors, all well-proportioned and slow to unfold. Graceful overall, with a persistent finish amid ripe, chewy tannins.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2029. 100 cases made.—J.L.

92

Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District One Point Five 2012 $80 Firm and tight,

with a trim, tannic band of chewy, cedary oak, dark berry, graphite, light mocha and espresso notes, ending with chewy tannins and a late burst of cherry-laced fruit. Drink now through 2028. 9,000 cases made.—J.L.

92

Tor Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain Cimarossa Vineyard 2012 $125 Intense and vibrant,

with a rawness in the texture from start to finish. A measure of heat joins the patently ripe, broad, rich fruit on the finish, which sails on, accompanied by a pretty dash of oak. Drink now through 2028. 150 cases made.—J.L.

92

Vision Cellars Napa Valley Red 2012 $140

Firm, dense and chewy, with tiers of black cherry, wild berry, plum and raspberry, shaded by touches of mocha, cedar and licorice. This maintains focus through the long, tapered finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Drink now through 2028. 155 cases made.—J.L.

91

Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2012 $30 Exhibits ripe and juicy

yet firm flavors of currant and blackberry amid a gravelly earthiness before finding focus on the finish, where the tannins are chewy, revealing a licorice touch. Drink now through 2025. 7,000 cases made.—J.L.

91

The Prisoner Wine Company Cuttings California 2012 $50 Offers ripe, explosive red and dark

berry fruit that’s intense and tannic, yet with a measure of finesse, ending with firm, chewy tannins and good length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Zinfandel. Drink now through 2027. 5,000 cases made.—J.L.

Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Gravel Bed 2012 $40 Offers a distinctive

sandy, gravelly edge of earthiness beneath the rich core of blackberry and licorice flavors. Ends with chewy tannins and a dash of spicy, cedary oak. Drink now through 2026. 620 cases made.—J.L.

90 Realm Farella Vineyard Napa Valley 2012

$125 Young and robust, with rich dark berry and cedary

herb notes competing for prominence. Dense, chewy tannins and clinging dryness ultimately define this wine.

Needs time. Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2017 through 2027. 375 cases made.—J.L.

Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2012 $85 Manages to balance intensity with restraint,

featuring a core of austere mineral, dark berry, cedar and loamy earth notes, yet with enough finesse and polish to sustain the flavors through the graceful, understated finish. Best from 2016 through 2026. 1,147 cases made.—J.L.

89

Realm The Bard Napa Valley 2012 $105

Bold, firm and ruggedly tannic, showing a powerful presence built around a dense core of dark berry, gravelly earth and lead pencil flavors, ending with dry, extracted, chewy tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2016 through 2028. 500 cases made.—J.L.

89

Rodney Strong Symmetry Meritage Alexander Valley 2012 $55 Dense and extracted, this serves

up a complex range of flavors, from black cherry to wild berry to currant, all shaded with light oak and a touch of espresso. Shows a measure of finesse and refinement overall. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2026. 9,337 cases made.—J.L.

Depends on your definition of crazy. In 1973, Dr. Clore stood in a desert in Washington State and said, “This is it!” Was that the proclamation of a mad man? Or the words of a prophet looking straight into the future? Because today Cold Creek vineyard is among the best in Washington — having earned more than sixty scores of 90 and above. So not bad, Dr. Clore. We’re glad you called it the way you saw it.

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Obsidian Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Red Hills Lake County Obsidian Ridge Vineyard 2012 $30 A wine of substance and density, firm, rich and

concentrated, with a tight core of mineral and gravellaced dark berry, espresso, cedar and graphite flavors, ending with dry, chewy tannins. Drink now through 2024.

5,924 cases made.—J.L.

87

Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 2012 $19 Well-centered on a core of dark

berry, loamy earth, cedar, lead pencil and dill, with chewy, tobacco-laced tannins that veer toward the dry side on the finish. Drink now through 2020. 61,126 cases made.—J.L.

CALIFORNIA Chardonnay

97

Peter Michael Chardonnay Knights Valley Point Rouge 2012 $185 Chardonnay doesn’t get

much better than this. Zeros in on a smooth, rich core of tropical fruit, pineapple, guava, tangerine and nectarine flavors, giving this a brilliant range of fruit to draw upon.

Sails along on a long, persistent finish, offering layer after layer of fruit complexity and ending with a kiss of toasty oak. Drink now through 2020. 290 cases made.—J.L.

©2015 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Woodinville, WA 98072

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Was he crazy?

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Marcassin Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Three Sisters Vineyard 2010 $75 Offering ripe lemon and green apple pie flavors, this is rich and pithy in texture.

Almost Chablis-like, with a flinty minerality, this offers depth and extraction, gaining equilibrium on the long, deep finish. Drink now through 2021. 350 cases made.—J.L.

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Miner Chardonnay Napa Valley Hudson Vineyard 2012 $50 Perfumed aromas of honeysuckle,

fig, pear and melon are present in this rich and full-bodied version, with an elegant, refined, graceful presence and delicate flavors that reveal a touch of oak and citrus. Drink now. 110 cases made.—J.L.

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tiers of spicy pear and lemon flavors, complemented by a kiss of oak. Ends with honeydew and honeysuckle notes on the finish. Drink now. 950 cases made.—J.L.

and buttery, this coats the palate with a rich array of fig, melon and tropical tangerine flavors, adding a floral, jasmine scent, enlivened by a nervy edge of acidity. Drink now. 1,100 cases made.—J.L.

Sterling Chardonnay Napa Valley Reserve 2012 $55 Offers gorgeous fruit, rich and creamy, with

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Black Kite Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2013 $45 Delightfully pure, juicy

Pahlmeyer Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2013 $75 An expansive style, with lively acidity. Plump, ripe

93

Rombauer Chardonnay Carneros 2013 $36

and refreshing, with a clean core of white peach, nectarine, tangerine and green apple. Lively acidity keeps the flavors jumping. Ends with greater depth and dimension, revealing a pithy minerality. Drink now. 236 cases made.—J.L.

A creamy-textured, charming style that’s easy to drink yet is deceptively complex and layered, with a mix of vanillascented oak and vibrant peach, nectarine, honeydew and apricot flavors. Long on the finish. Drink now. 100,000 cases made.—J.L.

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Etre Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2013 $28

See Highly Recommended, page 79.

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Paul Hobbs Chardonnay Sonoma Mountain Cuvée Agustina Richard Dinner Vineyard 2012 $100 Distinctive, with rich, plush layers of ripe fig, apricot, honeydew and subtle citrus shadings, making this appear both big and assertive, yet elegant for the size. Ends with a strong smoky, toasty oak presence. Drink now through 2020. 309 cases made.—J.L.

93

Peter Michael Chardonnay Knights Valley Belle Côte 2013 $90 Oozing with complex flavors of honeydew, toasty oak, fig, apricot and tangerine, this is enlivened by snappy acidity and ends with a long, expansive flavor. Drink now through 2020. 2,130 cases made.—J.L.

93

Peter Michael Chardonnay Knights Valley Cuvée Indigène 2012 $120 Full and rich-tasting,

with scents of lemon, this unleashes a mix of tropical fruit, fig and honeydew flavors. A touch raw and oaky on the finish. Drink now through 2020. 460 cases made.—J.L.

93

Peter Michael Chardonnay Knights Valley La Carrière 2013 $90 Deftly balanced, with a mix of rich fruit flavors and mildly cedary, toasty oak. The core is centered around lime, citrus, green apple and honeydew notes, ending clean and lingering. Drink now through 2020. 1,940 cases made.—J.L.

93

Peter Michael Chardonnay Knights Valley Mon Plaisir 2013 $100 Firm and vibrant, with a tight

mix of green apple, citrus, nectarine and tangerine flavors, shaded by light toasty oak. Ending with touches of spice, honeydew and honeysuckle. Drink now through 2020.

1,295 cases made.—J.L.

Rombauer Chardonnay Carneros Home Ranch Vineyard 2013 $70 Serves up lots of ripe, rich,

generous Chardonnay flavors, with tiers of ripe apple, pear, peach and nectarine notes, supported by lively acidity and ending with a kiss of oak and mouthwatering acidity. Drink now. 130 cases made.—J.L.

93

Tor Chardonnay Sonoma Valley Durell Vineyard Wente Clone 2013 $60 Presents a tight

beam of rich green apple, pear and citrus flavors that are juicy and vibrant, pure and persistent, ending with a mouthwatering aftertaste and layers of subtle fruit. Drink now. 250 cases made.—J.L.

93 Valdez Family Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2012 $30 Smooth, rich and creamy, filling out the palate with a pure mix of honey-laced fig, green apple, pear, melon and jazzy oak notes that linger, gaining depth and richness. Drink now through 2020. 210 cases made.—J.L.

92

Alpha Omega Chardonnay Napa Valley 2012 $68 A rich, expansive style that shows creamy, toasty

oak and a core of fig, melon, citrus and peach, with the flavors elegantly woven together. Ends with a citrus peel pithiness. Drink now through 2019. 1,500 cases made.—J.L.

92

Benovia Chardonnay Fort Ross-Seaview 2012 $48 Well-oaked, with jazzy vanilla, cream and

buttery notes that expand and extend the core of citrus, green apple and honeydew flavors, giving this an enticing aftertaste of smoky vanillin. Drink now. 430 cases made.—J.L.

92

Byron Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Nielson Vineyard 2012 $32 A rich, stylish effort, with a

seductive overlay of smoky, toasty oak to the ripe pear, fig, nectarine and melon flavors, gaining depth and length on the finish. Drink now through 2020.—J.L.

92 Hartford Court Chardonnay Green Valley of Russian River Valley Three Jacks Vineyard 2012 $65 Splits the difference between pure and well-oaked

fruit, with a structured beam of vibrant green apple and pear flavors. The result is a deftly balanced, deeply nuanced, rich and layered wine of notable vibrance and edginess.

Drink now. 286 cases made.—J.L.

92 Paul Hobbs Chardonnay Russian River Valley Ulises Valdez Vineyard 2012 $70 A tangy

style of Chardonnay, almost Sauvignon Blanc–like, with snappy acidity and vibrancy. Captures a zesty mix of citrus, green apple and tangerine flavors, enlivened by zingy acidity. Best from 2016 through 2022. 349 cases made.—J.L.

92 Jarvis Chardonnay Napa Valley Finch Hollow 2013 $115 Features excellent density, vibrancy,

richness and concentration, with a wealth of rich tropical fruit, pear, apple, melon and citrus flavors, rounded out with cedary, toasty oak. Full-bodied and persistent, lingering on the finish. Drink now. 869 cases made.—J.L.

92 Jarvis Chardonnay Napa Valley Finch Hollow Unfiltered 2013 $130 Intensely vibrant and

focused on the tightly wound flavors of mineral, citrus, melon, green apple and tangerine. Maintains vibrancy and an authoritative personality through the finish, ending with a dash of butterscotch. Drink now. 130 cases made.—J.L.

92

Lobo Chardonnay Napa Valley Wulff Vineyards 2013 $60 Very rich and layered, offering

tiers of fig, apricot, honeydew, spice and green apple flavors.

Delivers a mix of bold fruit and oak, with a measure of finesse. Despite the vibrancy and edgy texture, this slowly glides into the finish. Drink now. 100 cases made.—J.L.

92 Loring Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands Rosella’s Vineyard 2013 $40 Ripe and plump, with a rich, smooth texture and lively acidity, highlighting the core of ripe pear, green fig, honeydew and tangerine flavors. A hint of butterscotch emerges on the finish.

Drink now. 150 cases made.—J.L.

92 Marcassin Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Marcassin Vineyard 2010 $150 Combines richness

with elegance and detail, offering a core of green apple, lime- and lemon-laced citrus flavors, with touches of honey, spice and graphite. Lemon meringue notes emerge on the finish. Drink now through 2021. 900 cases made.—J.L.

92 Martinelli Chardonnay Russian River Valley Martinelli Road 2012 $48 A refreshingly zesty,

vibrant, full-torque Chardonnay, with a tight core of ripe, tangy green apple, pear, honeydew and lemony-citrus notes, framed by spicy, toasty, creamy oak flavors that fold together gracefully. Drink now through 2022. 258 cases made.—J.L.

92 Peter Michael Chardonnay Knights Valley Ma Belle-Fille 2013 $105 Very trim and spicy, a touch

raw and woody in texture, with a citrusy edge to the green apple, nectarine and white peach flavors, ending long and clean. Will benefit from some cellaring. Drink now through 2020. 1,530 cases made.—J.L.

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Moone-Tsai Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Charles Heintz Vineyard 2012 $65 Offers an ele-

gant, delicate mix of citrus, lemon drop, green apple and tart butterscotch in a tight, focused style, enlivened by zesty acidity and a long, lingering finish. Drink now through 2019. 300 cases made.—J.L.

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Patz & Hall Chardonnay Carneros Hudson Vineyard 2013 $55 Intense and vibrant, with a zesty

core of lively citrus, green apple, quince, nectarine and lemon-lime flavors, making for a cleansing aftertaste that echoes the pithiness of the citrus skin. Drink now. 374 cases made.—J.L.

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Ramey Chardonnay Russian River Valley Ritchie Vineyard 2012 $65 A rich, creamy texture frames the ripe fig, melon, hazelnut and sandalwood flavors, all set in an elegant, delicate framework, sailing

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New Releases: California along on the finish. Drink now through 2020. 1,344 cases made.—J.L.

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Rombauer Chardonnay Carneros Proprietor Selection 2013 $65 Pure and clean, this is seductively

elegant, with subtle, citrus-laced green apple, pear and fig flavors and light toasty oak. Most impressive on the finish, where the flavors turn delicate and linger. Drink now.

600 cases made.—J.L.

92

Saxon Brown Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Durell Vineyard 2011 $48 Offers a rich, distinctive edge of smoke and butterscotch, with ripe fig, apricot and honeydew flavors. For all the density, this remains agile and graceful. Drink now through 2020. 190 cases made.—J.L.

92

Sbragia Family Chardonnay Napa Valley Gamble Ranch Vineyard 2012 $40 Rich, bordering on unctuous, with lush notes of fig, melon, baked apple and baking spices that add a nice dimension. The flavors remain fresh and lively, accented by a spicy finish. Drink now through 2020. 643 cases made.—J.L.

92

Signorello Chardonnay Napa Valley Hope’s Cuvée 2013 $80 Complex and centered on a mix of

green pear, apple and citrus flavors, with lemon-lime scents and a juicy texture that’s a touch pithy now. Drink now. 265 cases made.—J.L.

92

Skywalker Chardonnay Marin County 2013 $42 Deliciously pure, rich and layered, with tiers of fig,

melon, light toasty oak and anise, accented by a dash of butterscotch. Gains depth and dimension on the long, persistent finish. Drink now. 111 cases made.—J.L.

92

Tor Chardonnay Napa Valley Hudson Vineyard Wente Clone 2013 $60 Exhibits a tight core

of zesty, pithy lemon peel and green apple flavors, giving this a juicy, mouthwatering presence, layered and persistent. Drink now. 275 cases made.—J.L.

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Tor Chardonnay Napa Valley Hyde Vineyard Small Berry Selection 2013 $60 Rich and assertive,

with a powerful push of ripe pear, pithy citrus, wet stone and apple flavors, ending with a long, deep, persistent finish that shows some tannic muscle. Drink now. 200 cases made.—J.L.

92

Venge Chardonnay Napa Valley Maldonado Vineyard Dijon Clones 2013 $40 A very rich, styl-

ish effort, with creamy, toasty oak and a complex core of honeydew, honeysuckle, nectarine and fig flavors. Broad and expansive on the long, full finish. Drink now. 525 cases made.—J.L.

91

Buehler Chardonnay Carneros 2013 $25

A stylish effort, with ripe, juicy pear, melon, citrus and mineral notes. Medium- to full-bodied and long, lingering on the finish. Drink now. 450 cases made.—J.L.

91

Carte Blanche Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2012 $75 Bold, rich and creamy, both in flavor and

texture, with dashes of blood orange, pear, nectarine and honeydew. This is expansive and shows a pithy edge on the finish. Drink now. 350 cases made.—J.L.

91

Cattleya Chardonnay Russian River Valley Pratt Vineyard 2013 $70 Offers a laser beam of tight

Chardonnay flavors, tilting toward citrus, green apple, tangerine and mineral notes, ending with a long, clean, refreshing finish. Drink now. 100 cases made.—J.L.

91

De Loach Chardonnay Russian River Valley Ritchie Vineyard Middle Reach Vineyard Designate 2012 $50 Delivers a clean, pure mix of ripe pear, apple

and honeydew flavors, full-bodied, with nuanced floral and subtle butterscotch touches that add dimension. Drink now through 2020. 150 cases made.—J.L.

91

Friedeman Chardonnay Russian River Valley Dichotomy 2013 $25 This is pure, with

vivid, juicy peach, tangerine, nectarine and sweet grapefruit notes that add a nice touch on the mouthwatering finish. Drink now. 154 cases made.—J.L.

BROOKS & JESSICA FRIEDEMAN Owners & Winemakers

91

Hudson Vineyards Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros 2012 $60 Delivers a laser beam of tart, cit-

rus-infused green apple and grapefruit flavors, with the acidity imparting a juicy, mouthwatering presence. Drink now. 930 cases made.—J.L.

91

Knights Bridge Chardonnay Knights Valley West Block 2012 $65 Complex aromas of yeast, crème brûlée, fig, apricot and toasty, cedary oak give this a rich core. The oak adds a dimension of complexity and nuance on the long finish, with a kiss of anise. Drink now. 565 cases made.—J.L.

91

Kuleto Chardonnay Napa Valley 2012 $45

Serves up a tasty mix of green apple, pear and honeydew flavors, with touches of citrus, lemon and nectarine, along with a pithy texture. Ends long, clean and juicy. Drink now. 429 cases made.—J.L.

91

Loring Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands Sierra Mar Vineyard 2013 $40 A nicely oaky style

that’s also smoky, this features a dash of mouthwatering butterscotch amid a core of tangerine, green apple and baked apple notes. Ends full-bodied, with zesty acidity keeping the flavors fresh and lively. Drink now. 100 cases made.—J.L.

91 Loring Chardonnay Sonoma Coast ParmeleeHill Vineyard 2013 $40 This is effusively fruity, with a juicy mix of peach, honeydew and mango flavors that show a dash of citrus and light oak. Elegant, graceful and lingering. Drink now. 100 cases made.—J.L.

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Migration Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Charles Heintz Vineyard 2013 $55 An impressive

version, featuring a vibrant core of citrus-infused fruit, with tangerine, nectarine, lime, green apple and white peach flavors. Maintains a clean, refreshing profile. Drink now. 587 cases made.—J.L.

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Miner Chardonnay Napa Valley Genny’s Vineyard 2012 $50 Rich and full-bodied, with a

creamy texture that lets the ripe apple, pear, melon and subtle butterscotch flavors glide through. Gains depth and nuance on the persistent finish. Drink now. 106 cases made.—J.L.

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Miner Chardonnay Napa Valley Hyde Vineyard 2012 $50 Pure and silky, with a complex mix of

rich peach, nectarine, honeydew and ripe pear, tightly focused, long, pure and persistent, echoing on the finish.

Drink now. 440 cases made.—J.L.

91

Miner Chardonnay Napa Valley Wild Yeast 2012 $50 Offers a generous mix of oak-scented pear,

melon, cedar and tobacco leaf flavors. Intense and focused, ending with a touch of rawness in the texture. Drink now.

1,062 cases made.—J.L.

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Neyers Chardonnay Carneros El Novillero Vineyard 2013 $42 Features a core of rich fig, melon,

toasty oak and subtle baking spices, with a measure of finesse and refinement. This is most impressive on the finish, where the flavors flow together. Shows more nuance and finesse than the Carneros bottling. Drink now through 2020. 208 cases made.—J.L.

91

Peirson Meyer Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2013 $39 Ultrarich and creamy, but also quite

elegant and well-focused on a delicate beam of ripe pear, honeydew, fig, tangerine and nectarine flavors, ending with a persistent mix of oak and fruit. Drink now. 400 cases made.—J.L.

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Peirson Meyer Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Charles Heintz Vineyard 2013 $55 Succeeds in a

delicate, creamy style, with honeydew, creamy oak, pear, fig and apricot flavors, more medium- than full-bodied, giving this a measure of elegance and finesse. Drink now.

350 cases made.—J.L.

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Ramey Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros Hyde Vineyard 2012 $65 Clean, fresh and lively,

with juicy pear, citrus and green apple flavors, shaded by spicy, toasty oak, all presented in a smooth, seamless style that keeps the fruit at the forefront. Drink now through 2019. 1,212 cases made.—J.L.

91

Rombauer Chardonnay Carneros Buchli Station Vineyard 2013 $70 Complex, with restrained aromas, offering a graceful mix of pear, peach, fig and honeydew flavors. Shows a touch of pithiness in the texture on the finish. Drink now. 130 cases made.—J.L.

91

V. Sattui Chardonnay Los Carneros 2013

$35 Pure, clean, rich and layered, with a mix of pear, fig, honeydew, floral and white peach notes that are elegant and graceful, gliding along through the finish. Drink now. 671 cases made.—J.L.

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V. Sattui Chardonnay Napa Valley Carsi Vineyard 2013 $38 Well-built, with a complex mix

of aromas, flavors and textures, from the pithy citrus skin grip to the riper nectarine, tangerine and green apple notes. A touch of oak adds to the creaminess. Drink now.

1,062 cases made.—J.L.

91

Sbragia Family Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley Home Ranch 2012 $28 Intense tropical fruit,

pineapple, citrus and melon are at the core of this moderately rich, full-bodied effort, ending with a hint of but-

terscotch. Maintains depth and focus. Drink now through 2019. 4,508 cases made.—J.L.

91

Tor Chardonnay Napa Valley Torchiana Beresini Vineyard Hyde Clone 2013 $60 Shows a

firm, citrusy, pithy edge to the honeydew melon and green apple flavors. A bit raw and edgy in texture, but nothing bottle age won’t resolve. Drink now. 330 cases made.—J.L.

91

Wayfarer Chardonnay Fort Ross-Seaview Wayfarer Vineyard 2013 $80 Combines rich tiers

of smoky oak and honey-laced fig and melon flavors. The texture is raw and pithy, suggesting time in the bottle will help. Most impressive on the finish, where the flavors maintain their density, focus and persistence. Drink now through 2019. 820 cases made.—J.L.

91

Williams Selyem Chardonnay Russian River Valley Drake Estate Vineyard 2012 $65 Zippy acid-

ity keeps the flavors dancing in this sleek, stylish Chardonnay. Elegant and deftly balanced, offering subtle nutmeg, cedar, green apple and green pineapple flavors, giving this just enough depth and complexity to maintain interest. Drink now through 2020. 331 cases made.—J.L.

90 David Arthur Chardonnay Napa Valley 2013

$50 Fresh and vibrant, with a snappy mix of white peach, nectarine, green apple and lime notes. Ends with juicy, mouthwatering acidity and a clean, minerally aftertaste. Drink now. 618 cases made.—J.L.

90 Bennett Valley Chardonnay Bennett Valley

2012 $30 Rich and creamy, with subtle notes of ripe pear, melon, citrus and mango fanning out and remaining supple and graceful. Drink now. 350 cases made.—J.L.

90 Beringer Chardonnay Napa Valley Private

Reserve 2013 $44 Complex and layered, exhibiting

a mix of ripe peach, pear, honeydew and citrus flavors, shaded by a light toasty oak presence and ending with a slightly raw, pithy finish. Drink now. 22,000 cases made.—J.L.

90 Black Kite Chardonnay Santa Lucia High-

lands Soberanes Vineyard 2013 $45 This presents

a nervy core of tangerine, nectarine and green apple, with fresh, lively, snappy acidity, ending clean and pure. Drink now. 195 cases made.—J.L.

90 Black Kite Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands Soberanes Vineyard 2012 $45 A creamy

white, with vanilla, mocha and crème brûlée notes woven amid flavors of baked apple, apple pie and spices. Ends with a layered, engaging aftertaste. Drink now. 140 cases made.—J.L.

90 Byron Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley 2012

$27 Appealing, with a rich, juicy core of intense fruitiness, offering tiers of melon, citrus and tropical fruit. Very clean, pure and focused. Drink now.—J.L.

90 Calera Chardonnay Central Coast 2013 $20

See Smart Buys, page 81.

90 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Chalk Hill Clone 17 2012 $75

Spicy, toasty oak and rich fig and melon notes marry happily in this plump, complex effort. Holds focus and stays true to form through the finish. Drink now.

218 cases made.—J.L.

90 Davis Estates Chardonnay Napa Valley 2013

$40 Offers wonderful vibrancy, density and focus, aimed squarely at a mix of citrus-infused green apple and pear flavors. Ends tight and cleansing. Drink now. 411 cases made.—J.L.

90 Desparada Chardonnay

Edna Valley Wayfinder Spanish Springs Vineyard 2013 $34

Aromas of orange and grapefruit, along with skins, give this a pithy character, with a core centered on citrus fruit.

Ends with a long, zingy finish that highlights the wine’s juiciness. Drink now. 223 cases made.—J.L.

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90 Failla Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2013

$34

Rich and solid, with honeydew, honeysuckle, fig, apricot and spice notes reverberating on the finish. Still a touch raw at this early stage, but a good bet to gain. Drink now.

2,000 cases made.—J.L.

90 Gary

Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Valley Rochioli Vineyard 2013 $55 Elegant and

refined, showing a nervy, pithy citrus peel edge to the texture, with lively flavors of tangerine, lemon blossom, white peach and nectarine. Ends with a juicy finish. Drink now.

568 cases made.—J.L.

90 Frank

Family Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros Lewis Vineyard Reserve 2012 $65 Fresh,

pure and vibrant, with zesty green apple and pear flavors, offering hints of melon and spice. Light cedary oak notes show on the finish. Drink now through 2020. 2,383 cases made.—J.L.

90 Hartford Court Chardonnay Green Valley of

Russian River Valley Fog Dance Vineyard 2012 $65

Tightly wound, with a firm, dense mix of citrus-infused pear, green apple and honeydew flavors, revealing a wet stone minerality that gives this a distinctive personality.

Drink now. 286 cases made.—J.L.

90 Lafond Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills SRH 2013

$23 Engagingly rich and layered, showing off flashy toasty oak, which adds a nice touch amid the rich fig, apricot and honeydew flavors. This gains and sails along on the finish, where the flavors have traction. Drink now.

2,830 cases made.—J.L.

90 LinCourt Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills Courtney’s 2012 $35 Exhibits a mix of ripe pear, honeysuckle, tropical fruit and honeydew flavors, full-bodied, intense and persistent, with a lingering aftertaste that keeps the fruit front and center, accented by a touch of pithiness. Drink now. 227 cases made.—J.L.

90 Lynmar Chardonnay Russian River Valley Quail Hill Vineyard Old Wente 2012 $55 Rich and

creamy, with a mix of honeydew, honeysuckle, fig and apricot flavors, all tightly focused, perfumed and persistent on the finish, where this gains depth and length.

Drink now. 296 cases made.—J.L.

90 Meiomi Chardonnay Santa Barbara-SonomaMonterey Counties 2013 $22 See Smart Buys, page 81.

90 Mer Soleil Chardonnay Santa Barbara County

Reserve 2012 $32 Offers a generous mix of tropical fruit, with guava, pineapple and mango flavors accented by melon, spice and floral notes. Well-focused and shaded by light toasty oak, this gains depth and nuance on the creamy finish. Drink now. 6,835 cases made.—J.L.

90 Migration Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley

Dierberg Vineyard 2012 $55 Sleek and perfumed, with ripe melon and green apple flavors that gain depth and length as they extend on the palate. Drink now through 2020. 288 cases made.—J.L.

90 Newton Chardonnay Napa Valley Unfiltered

2012 $60 Shows a complex, creamy, spicy nutmeg edge to the ripe fig, melon and subtle butterscotch notes, turning pithy and tannic, with a dash of anise. Drink now through 2020. 11,000 cases made.—J.L.

90 O’Brien

Estate Chardonnay Napa Valley Reserve 2013 $75 A bold, full-bodied style, rich and

layered, with honey-scented golden apple, fig, melon and cedary oak notes. Ends with a raw edge and a solid push of flavor. Best to cellar short term. Drink now. 150 cases made.—J.L.

90 Ojai Chardonnay

Santa Barbara County Puerta del Mar 2012 $33 Offers a pure, rich core of

juicy pineapple, butterscotch, honeydew and light cedary oak, all well-proportioned and staying true to course on the finish. Drink now. 102 cases made.—J.L.

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90 Patz & Hall Chardonnay Mendocino County

90 Staglin Chardonnay Rutherford 2013

Offers a lively, vivid mix of lemon-infused green apple, white peach, nectarine and tangerine flavors, ending with a long, juicy finish and a touch of pithiness in the aftertaste. Drink now. 340 cases made.—J.L.

This has a sleek core of lemon-lime notes, with a zesty green apple and mineral edge, ending with a pleasant wet stone earthiness. Drink now. 1,000 cases made.—J.L.

90 Pont Neuf Chardonnay Russian River Valley

dense mix of citrus-infused pear, green apple and honeydew flavors, revealing a wet stone minerality that imparts a distinctive personality. Drink now. 581 cases made.—J.L.

Alder Springs Vineyard 2013 $60

Pont Royal 2013 $55 Offers a potent mix of intense

flavors, shaded toward ripe pear, citrus, honey and honeydew flavors. Gains richness, maintaining presence and finishing with an authoritative aftertaste. Drink now. 121 cases made.—J.L.

90 Ramey Chardonnay Russian River Valley

2012 $40 Combines the attributes of light, smoky oak with a zingy core of juicy, citrus-infused green apple and honeydew flavors, sailing along on the finish. Drink now.

13,980 cases made.—J.L.

90 Reuling Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2013

$70 Rich and intense, centered on tiers of ripe fig, honeydew, apricot and light oak, giving this a subtle touch of butterscotch on the finish. Drink now. 325 cases made.—J.L.

90 Rhys Chardonnay

Santa Cruz Mountains Alpine Vineyard 2012 $69 Aromas of cream, spice,

citrus and apple give this a complex scent. Creamy and zesty on the palate, with lively pineapple, tropical fruit and lemon-lime notes, ending long and clean. Drink now through 2020.—J.L.

90 Roar Chardonnay

Santa Lucia Highlands Sierra Mar Vineyard 2013 $45 Intense, with fresh,

snappy green apple, pear, honeydew, citrus and tangerine notes. Exhibits a raw, pithy texture that should soften with time. Drink now. 176 cases made.—J.L.

90 Roar Chardonnay

Santa Lucia Highlands Soberanes Vineyard 2012 $40 Combines rich, deep

fig, melon and apple flavors with a seductive overlay of creamy, toasty oak, remaining elegant and graceful throughout. Drink now through 2020. 95 cases made.—J.L.

90 Rudius Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros

Hyde Vineyard 2012 $50 A delicate, detailed style,

with moderately rich flavors presented in subtle tiers of ripe pear, light oak, green apple and honeydew. Shows a touch of pithy lemon peel on the finish. Good length.

Drink now. 184 cases made.—J.L.

90 Sandhi Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills Bentrock 2013 $90 Shows nice vibrancy, richness and depth in

a very sleek, restrained style. The core flavors of grapefruit, citrus and blood orange are tart and juicy, yet with a richness and depth not typically found in wines this austere. Drink now. 441 cases made.—J.L.

$75

90 Rodney Strong Chardonnay Russian River Valley Reserve 2012 $35 Tightly wound, with a firm,

90 Rodney Strong Chardonnay Sonoma Coast

2013 $25 Very rich and complex, with concentrated fig, melon, apricot and light lime-citrus hints. Ends with a long, graceful aftertaste. Drink now. 4,743 cases made.—J.L.

90 Stuhlmuller Chardonnay Alexander Valley

2013 $24 Delivers a tight beam of cream-laced green apple, melon, citrus and honeydew flavors, supported by firm acidity and ending with a persistent, flavorful finish.

Drink now. 9,300 cases made.—J.L.

Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 2013 $42 A fresh and vibrant white, with lively pear, melon and green apple flavors, accented by a pithy tangerine skin edge. Ends gracefully. Drink now. 19,554 cases made.—J.L.

Subterra 2013 $30 A rich, layered style, with tiers of peach, nectarine, melon and citrus, gaining suppleness midpalate and ending with a long, lingering finish. Drink now. 201 cases made.—J.L.

90 Vineyard 7 & 8 Chardonnay Spring Mountain

District Estate 2012 $80 Rich and elegant, with tiers of ripe pear, fig, honeydew melon and marmalade flavors, featuring touches of spice and vanilla-accented oak. Drink now through 2020. 300 cases made.—J.L.

90 Wrath Chardonnay Vineyard 2012 $49

Monterey San Saba

A bold, rich, exotic style, with intense fig, tropical fruit, pineapple and honeydew flavors.

Tapers off midpalate and glides along effortlessly on the finish. Drink now. 116 cases made.—J.L.

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Acacia Chardonnay Carneros 2013 $22

Delightfully pure, clean and elegant, with juicy, mouthwatering green apple, pear, citrus and green fig flavors.

Tightly focused, long and persistent on the finish. Drink now. 74,000 cases made.—J.L.

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Arrowood Chardonnay Sonoma County 2013 $25 Offers a tasteful mix of ripe pear, honeydew, honeysuckle, fig and apple flavors, clean and well-focused.

This is persistent on the finish, ending a touch pithy. Drink now. 8,288 cases made.—J.L.

90 Signorello Chardonnay Napa Valley Hope’s

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oak, butterscotch, licorice and fig, yet maintains a measure of balance and grace that is evident on the finish, where the flavors linger. Drink now through 2020. 440 cases made.—J.L.

style, with a pithy citrus skin edge to the ripe pear, apple and melon notes, ending spicy and cedary. Drink now.

1,100 cases made.—J.L.

Cuvée 2012 $80 Big and rich, with flavors of smoky

90 Sojourn Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Durell Vineyard 2013 $48

Casts a flinty, minerally edge without sacrificing fruit, offering taut nectarine, white peach, tangerine and green apple flavors, all adding up to a zesty, lively style that’s complex and revealing. Drink now. 325 cases made.—J.L.

90 Sojourn Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Sangia-

como Vineyard 2013 $45 Offers a taut array of pithy citrus, green apple, flinty rock and zesty lime flavors. The delicacy and finesse are impressive, maintaining the wine’s personality. Drink now. 325 cases made.—J.L.

15TH GENERATION WINEMAKER

90 The Treefort Chardonnay Sonoma Carneros

como Vineyard Green Acres Hill 2011 $48

With an initial push of citrus-laced fig, melon and green apple flavors, this gains a pithy grapefruit peel edge midpalate through the finish. Drink now through 2019. 190 cases made.—J.L.

Barone Fini produces exceptionally crisp and balanced wines that are a true reflection of the Trentino region and over 500 years of winemaking heritage and tradition.

Experience our noble commitment to quality at a price all can enjoy.

90 Talbott Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands

89 Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay Alexander Valley Belle Terre Vineyard Single Vineyard 2013 $25

90 Saxon Brown Chardonnay Carneros Sangia-

A NOBLE COMMITMENT TO Q UALI T Y SINCE 1497

Focused on pure, vibrant pear, fig and honeydew melon flavors that are graceful and polished, this gains depth, adding touches of light cedary oak and pithy citrus. Drink now. 9,000 cases made.—J.L.

Foxen Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Tinaquaic Vineyard 2013 $38 A snappy, vibrant

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Hanna Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2013 $25 Offers a rich, complex medley of melon,

apple, spice and citrus flavors, with lemon and lime notes that fan out and maintain a juicy personality. Drink now.

6,000 cases made.—J.L.

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Kunde Estate Chardonnay Sonoma Valley Reserve 2013 $40 Charming, with a mix of creamy pear, fig, vanilla, honeysuckle and light spice flavors, ending with a delicate, graceful finish. Drink now. 700 cases made.—J.L.

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New Releases: California

89

La Follette Chardonnay Mendocino Ridge Manchester Ridge Vineyard 2012 $42 Offers a mix

of honey and honeydew flavors, with pear, apple and subtle citrus notes. The oaks hangs in the background, making this a fresh, snappy, crisp style, showing some added texture. Drink now. 561 cases made.—J.L.

89

Moone-Tsai Chardonnay Napa Valley 2012 $60 A little raw and grainy, giving the ripe apple and honeydew flavors a bumpy ride. Best on the finish, where the flavors fold together, ending with a pithy citrus skin texture. Drink now. 550 cases made.—J.L.

melon, tangerine and nectarine. Fresh, vibrant and cleansing on the finish. Drink now. 3,965 cases made.—J.L.

88 Darioush Chardonnay Napa Valley Signature 2013 $43 Raw in texture from oak, but the fruit is pure and clean, focused on white peach, tangerine and nectarine. Drink now through 2021. 2,705 cases made.—J.L.

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Eberle Chardonnay Paso Robles Eberle Estate Vineyard 2013 $22 Juicy and refreshing, with

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a core of orange, tangerine and nectarine flavors, showing just a twinge of pithy bitterness that adds to the complexity. Drink now. 4,006 cases made.—J.L.

of honeydew, pear, fig and apricot flavors, filling out and gaining depth and traction. Ends with a touch of marmalade. Drink now. 4,742 cases made.—J.L.

88 Edna Valley Chardonnay Central Coast 2013 $15 Rich and full-bodied, presenting a range of tropical

Orogeny Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2013 $35 Pure, rich and layered, with a tempting mix

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Ramey Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2012 $40

Offers the aromas of baked apple pie, right down to the spiciness. Intense and vibrant, with a fresh, snappy edge to the green apple and melon flavors. Ends with a pithy grape texture. Drink now through 2019. 7,840 cases made.—J.L.

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Ramey Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Platt Vineyard 2012 $65 Raw in texture, with a pithy edge

to ripe fig and tangerine notes. The flavors run true and deep, with a long, persistent aftertaste and a touch of tannins. Drink now through 2019. 1,265 cases made.—J.L.

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Stephen Ross Chardonnay Edna Valley 2013 $24 This

tilts toward the tangy, citrus-laced fruit cocktail side of the spectrum, with green apple and pineapple notes providing a juicy mouthfeel and finish. Drink now. 928 cases made.—J.L.

fruit cocktail, pear and melon flavors. Ends a bit simpler.

Drink now. 275,000 cases made.—J.L.

88 Frank Family Chardonnay Carneros 2013 $35 Centered on ripe, juicy red and green apple flavors,

with a dash of quince and citrus, ending with a long, clean and mouthwatering finish. Drink now. 25,000 cases made.—J.L.

88 Ghost Pines Chardonnay Sonoma-MontereyNapa Counties Winemaker’s Blend 2013 $20

Presents a tight beam of lime, green apple, citrus and tropical fruit, maintaining focus and ending with a fresh juiciness that lingers. Drink now. 14,200 cases made.—J.L.

88

Hartford Court Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2013 $30 This full-bodied, rich and layered

version hits most of the high notes, with honey, pear, fig and melon flavors. Features nice acidity and a long, clean finish. Drink now. 6,000 cases made.—J.L. STEPHEN ROSS DOOLEY Owner & Winemaker

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Talbott Chardonnay Monterey Diamond T Vineyard 2013 $52 Offers intense, vibrant peach and

tropical fruit flavors, lively acidity and a dash of fig and nectarine on the finish. Ends a bit clipped, but this will improve with time. Drink now. 1,089 cases made.—J.L.

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Tamber Bey Chardonnay Yountville Deux Chevaux Vineyard 2012 $55 A creamy, delicate style,

with vanilla, cedar, light mocha and ripe apple flavors, remaining elegant. Drink now. 550 cases made.—J.L.

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Artesa Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros Estate Reserve 2013 $35 Shows a trim band of cit-

rus, green apple, tangerine and citrus blossom notes, with a clean, snappy finish. Drink now. 2,300 cases made.—J.L.

88

88 $27

William Hill Chardonnay Napa Valley 2013

Offers a complex mix of creamy, vanilla-scented oak and snappy, fresh green apple, melon and honeysuckle flavors, folding together on the finish, where this shows a pithy edge. Drink now. 34,000 cases made.—J.L.

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Landmark Chardonnay Sonoma County Overlook 2013 $25 Straightforward flavors of ripe

apple, pear and citrus show a touch of edgy citrus peel.

Gains depth and complexity on the finish, where the oak adds a touch of buttery spice. Drink now. 28,500 cases made.—J.L.

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LinCourt Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills Steel 2013 $18 Clean and refreshing, with snappy lemon,

grapefruit, green apple and pear flavors that are juicy, elegant and easy to enjoy. Drink now. 15,404 cases made.—J.L.

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MacRostie Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2013

Davis Bynum Chardonnay Russian River Valley River West Vineyard 2013 $25 A touch raw

$25

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88 Merryvale Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros 2013 $35 Fresh and vibrant, with a zesty core of

and coarse in texture, with citrus-infused green apple and tangerine flavors that are zesty and lively from vibrant acidity. Drink now. 14,628 cases made.—J.L.

Calera Chardonnay Mount Harlan 2013 $36

The texture is slightly raw and woody, but not out of bounds, offering a mix of fig, pear, melon and subtle apricot notes. Time should smooth things out. Drink now.

4,692 cases made.—J.L.

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Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay Alexander Valley Robert Young Vineyard Single Vineyard 2012 $25 A bit raw and coarse in texture, yet offering a nice beam of citrus and a pear-laced core, with a pithy grapefruit peel edge. Drink now through 2020. 11,000 cases made.—J.L.

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Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Sonoma Estates 2013 $20 Refreshingly pure and

focused on rich honeydew, fig, citrus and green apple flavors, this fills out nicely and ends with a strong, rich fruit presence. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.—J.L.

102 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

88 Custard Chardonnay Sonoma Valley Comfort Wine 2013 $22 Offers charming flavors of white peach,

Pure, clean and juicy, with ripe apple, pear and melon flavors that are refreshing and lively, long and persistent, keeping the fresh fruitiness front and center. Drink now. 29,000 cases made.—J.L.

green apple, citrus and tangerine flavors, showing a touch of pithiness in the texture. Drink now. 3,200 cases made.—J.L.

88 Robert Mondavi Chardonnay Napa Valley 2013 $19 A subtle, complex, delicate style, with a mix

of white peach, citrus, green apple and spice flavors. Clean and refined, ending with a touch of pithiness. Drink now.

64,288 cases made.—J.L.

88

Sandhi Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2013 $33 Smells like a citrus orchard in blossom. Very

enticing, clean and juicy, offering green pear, apple, melon and citrus notes that end with a refreshing edge. Drink now. 4,900 cases made.—J.L.

New Releases: California

88

Sanford Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills 2012 $32

87 $22

Rodney Strong Chardonnay Chalk Hill 2013

Features good intensity and core flavors built around citrus, green apple and lime, with a pithy citrus peel edge that builds. Drink now. 3,435 cases made.—J.L.

Pure and spicy, with an earthy citrus edge to the green apple and pear flavors, revealing hints of limestone and light oak. Drink now. 89,000 cases made.—J.L.

88 Smoking Loon Chardonnay California Steelbird Unoaked 2013 $9 See Best Values, page 82.

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Sterling Chardonnay Napa Valley 2013 $18

The pithiness of the texture stands out, with citrus peel spice and edginess. The core flavors emphasize ripe pear, melon and fig. Ends clean and snappy. Drink now. 45,000 cases made.—J.L.

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Talbott Chardonnay Monterey Kali Hart 2013 $20 Combines rich tiers of fig, apricot, melon and green

Talbott Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands Logan Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 2013 $24 Clean

and tangy, with a lemon-lime edge to the green apple and pear flavors, ending on a simpler note. Drink now. 13,116 cases made.—J.L.

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Bogle Chardonnay California 2013 $10

Clean and refreshing, with a citrus and celery edge to the pithy green apple flavors, ending with drying, dill-scented oak. Drink now. 575,000 cases made.—J.L.

apple with vibrant acidity and a clean, pure finish. Drink now. 48,083 cases made.—J.L.

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apple, citrus, pear and honeydew flavors. Drink now.

165,660 cases made.—J.L.

Talley Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley 2013 $27 Fresh and snappy, with a nervy core of cit-

Bonterra Chardonnay Mendocino County 2013 $14 Pure and uncomplicated, centered on green

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Loring Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Keefer Ranch Vineyard 2013 $50 Very complete, with a refreshing core of snappy blueberry and wild berry, picking up a spicy edge and firming on the finish. Drink now.

300 cases made.—J.L.

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$26

Loring Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County 2013

Alluring, with blueberry and wild berry flavors, supported by firm, earth-laced tannins. The rich fruitiness pushes through on the finish, ending deep and complex.

Drink now through 2022. 1,625 cases made.—J.L.

89 Loring Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Durell Vineyard 2013 $50 Fresh, lively wild berry, raspberry

and blueberry notes form the core, with persistent flavors lingering on the finish. The tannins show good grip, while wilted rose accents fold into play. Drink now. 250 cases made.—J.L.

88

Failla Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013 $34

Franciscan Chardonnay Napa Valley 2013 $18 More solid than special, this is certainly clean, pure

A supple, graceful style, smooth in texture, with ripe plum, blueberry and raspberry flavors that glide along. Ends with mild, fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2020.

3,000 cases made.—J.L.

Clean and direct, if modest in scope, showing snappy green and golden apple, citrus and melon flavors, with a pithy citrus peel texture. Drink now. 2,100 cases made.—J.L.

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87 Bonterra Pinot Noir Mendocino County 2013 $16 Fresh and vibrant, with snappy wild berry, raspberry

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rus- and mineral-laced green apple and grapefruit flavors, giving this a mouthwatering personality. Drink now.

11,100 cases made.—J.L.

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Y3 Chardonnay Napa Valley 2013 $20

Amici Chardonnay Sonoma County Olema 2013 $15 Easy-drinking, with fresh flavors of zesty tangerine, melon, Golden Delicious apple and light baking spices, ending clean and refreshing. Drink now. 35,000 cases made.—J.L.

87

Au Bon Climat Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2013 $21 A scaled-down style, with dried

herb, cedar, green apple, melon and mineral notes. Drink now. 6,500 cases made.—J.L.

87

De Loach Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2013 $20 Offers light toasty oak details, with fig, melon

and citrus notes giving this a raw, pithy edge, imparting traction and depth to the flavors. Drink now. 9,200 cases made.—J.L.

87 $10

Fetzer Chardonnay California Sundial 2013

Fresh and vibrant, with spicy citrus, green apple and spice flavors, showing the presence of cedar and dill on the finish. Drink now. 297,318 cases made.—J.L.

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Hess Select Chardonnay Monterey County 2013 $13 Well done, and even more appealing for the

price, this presents a mix of pithy citrus, green apple, melon and spice flavors, ending a bit clipped. Drink now.

325,000 cases made.—J.L.

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MacMurray Ranch Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2013 $20 Clean and easygoing, done in a pleas-

ing, approachable style, with modest pear, apple, melon and subtle citrus notes. Drink now. 19,000 cases made.—J.L.

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Markham Chardonnay Napa Valley 2013 $22

Delivers a fresh, zingy mix of citrus-laced apple and melon flavors, shaded by light oak edges. Very nice and easy to drink. Drink now. 22,000 cases made.—J.L.

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Raymond Chardonnay Napa Valley Reserve Selection 2013 $20 Highlighted by pithy green apple

and apple skin flavors, with a dash of citrus and white peach. Clean, pure and simple, yet complete. Drink now.

25,000 cases made.—J.L.

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Sebastiani Chardonnay Sonoma County 2012 $14 Pure, with ripe apple, pear and melon flavors

that are easy to enjoy. Drink now. 64,680 cases made.—J.L.

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Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2013 $21 Shows a pithy orange peel texture, lending

a twinge of bitterness to the tangerine, citrus blossom and green grape skin notes. Drink now. 190,000 cases made.—J.L.

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and easy to enjoy, if short on extra facets. Drink now.

130,000 cases made.—J.L.

Kunde Estate Chardonnay Sonoma Valley 2013 $18 Clean, with a touch of lemon peel and pithy notes of tart apple. Drink now. 39,000 cases made.—J.L.

$15

St. Francis Chardonnay Sonoma County 2013

A solid effort, rich and woody, with intense and potent flavors that are vaguely defined. Makes for a sturdy drink. Drink now. 48,000 cases made.—J.L.

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Rodney Strong Chardonnay Sonoma County 2013 $17 Clean and spicy, with lemon-infused green

and blueberry flavors, well-proportioned but tilting toward a drier finish. The tannins are crisp and chewy. Drink now.

8,856 cases made.—J.L.

86 Bogle Pinot Noir California 2012 $12 A robust style, with depth and density. Shows tiers of dark berry framed by chewy tannins and cedary oak, with a rustic aftertaste. Drink now. 200,000 cases made.—J.L.

apple and pear notes that end on the simple side. Drink now. 170,000 cases made.—J.L.

CALIFORNIA Pinot Noir

89 $38

Benovia Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2012

A graceful, elegant style that keeps the focus on a core of ripe plum and blueberry flavors, joined by a touch of fresh earth. Drink now through 2020. 1,760 cases made.—J.L.

CHEERS

89

Failla Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Keefer Ranch 2013 $48 Fragrant and delicate, with a grace-

ful mix of medium-weight plum and blueberry flavors.

Supple throughout and ending with a dash of earthiness.

Drink now. 950 cases made.—J.L.

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Guarachi Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Gap’s Crown Vineyard Petaluma Gap 2013 $75 Fresh

and vibrant, with lively, snappy tannins and complex plum, blueberry and raspberry flavors, joined by floral anise notes and ending with a clean, pure finish. Best from 2016 through 2026. 328 cases made.—J.L.

89 Kastania Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Jaden & Keira’s Cuvée 2012 $35 Aromas of

earthy raspberry, dried herb and berry are accented by notes of anise and licorice in this red, which firms up midpalate, turning tannic and remaining so, offset by the ample fruit gushing through the finish.

Drink now. 320 cases made.—J.L.

HOOT & LINDA SMITH Owners

89 Loring Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Graham Family Vineyard 2013 $50 Graceful and charming, with ripe blueberry, plum, wilted rose, subtle spice and gravelly earth notes, ending well-focused, pure and persistent. Drink now. 200 cases made.—J.L.

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CALIFORNIA Sauvignon Blanc

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Paydirt Sauvignon Blanc Santa Barbara County 2012 $18 Yellow apple, pear and tangy peach flavors have an appealing overtone in this medium-bodied version, which offers floral and melon rind highlights accented by a crisp edge, with a creamy texture and good focus. Drink now. 600 cases made.—M.W.

89

Quivet Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Oakville Tench Vineyard 2013 $25 Rich lemon meringue

and honeysuckle flavors show an appealing lushness and fullness in this white, but the juicy acidity keeps the flavors in focus. Accents of chamomile, lanolin and poached pear chime in on the finish. Drink now. 200 cases made.—M.W.

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Vogelzang Sauvignon Blanc Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara Birdsong 2013 $19 Stylish and

refreshing, this is floral up front, with orange blossom and honeysuckle notes, followed by a crisp core of lemon, green apple, mineral and yellow raisin flavors. Drink now.

1,500 cases made.—M.W.

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Chateau St. Jean Fumé Blanc Sonoma County 2013 $12 See Best Values, page 82.

88

90 Caliza Sympatico Paso Robles 2012

$54

Distinctive and fairly gutsy, with black raspberry and dried herb aromas and deep flavors of dried cherry, smoky anise and tobacco. The tannins are big but ripe on the finish.

Tempranillo and Grenache. Drink now through 2020. 250 cases made.—T.F.

90 McPrice Myers Luna Matta Paso Robles 2012 $48 Dense and quietly potent, with spicy red and black fruit accents and layered flavors that show smoky cracked pepper, mineral and grilled herb nuances.

Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2022. 130 cases made.—T.F.

90 Tablas Creek Côtes de Tablas Paso Robles

2013 $35 Supple and balanced, with pretty wild flower and raspberry aromas and sleek flavors of smoky red plum, herbes de Provence and loamy mineral. Grenache, Syrah, Counoise and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2020. 1,580 cases made.—T.F.

90 Tablas Creek Esprit de Tablas Paso Robles

2012 $55 Graceful and delicately complex, with a lively core of bright acidity that plays up a floral boysenberry aroma. Offers sleek flavors of raspberry, smoked spice and subtle bitter chocolate. Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache and Counoise. Drink now through 2021. 4,400 cases made.—T.F.

Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc Napa Valley Dry 2013 $30 Juicy and bright, this offers mouthwatering

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flavors are at the core, with cream soda and black licorice hints and velvety tannins. Juicy finish. Drink now through 2025. 3,500 cases made.—M.W.

lemon, lime and pear flavors, with accents of green apple, papaya and melon. Drink now. 13,844 cases made.—M.W.

Atalon Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2013

$21 Citrusy and bright, with mouthwatering acidity supporting the Meyer lemon, tangerine and ruby grapefruit flavors, revealing fresh herbal notes on the finish.

Drink now. 5,100 cases made.—M.W.

87

Husch Sauvignon Blanc Mendocino 2013

$14 Extremely fragrant, with buoyant honeysuckle aromas and notes of peach, nectarine, melon and citrus. The flavors are more crisp than ripe, delivering a refreshing finish. Drink now. 10,222 cases made.—M.W.

87

Markham Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2013 $18 Lean and refreshing, with crisp lemon-lime, green

papaya and grapefruit zest notes. Lemon thyme accents appear on the finish. Drink now. 20,000 cases made.—M.W.

87

Sterling Sauvignon Blanc Napa County 2013

$16 Tangerine flavors complement the lemon, lime and green apple core. Sleek and refreshing, with a hint of fresh herbs on the finish. Drink now. 83,000 cases made.—M.W.

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Kenwood Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County 2013 $12 Light and refreshing, with lemon verbena,

Key lime and orange sherbet flavors that end with refreshing acidity. Drink now. 125,500 cases made.—M.W.

CALIFORNIA Other Red

92

Calcareous Trés Violet Paso Robles 2012 $48 Supple and vibrant, with a focused core wrapped

in a silky texture. Aromas of rose petal, raspberry and cigar box lead to layered flavors of blueberry, cracked pepper and smoky cinnamon. Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah. Drink now through 2023. 870 cases made.—T.F.

91

Calcareous Moose Paso Robles 2012 $48

Offers power and personality, with blackberry, tobacco and crushed rock notes, featuring intense flavors of smoky dark plum, licorice and graphite. The tannins are big but ripe, with a mineral accent. Syrah and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2024. 615 cases made.—T.F.

91 Calcareous Syrah Paso Robles Devil’s Canyon 2012 $45 Offers power and grace, with supple,

layered flavors of floral raspberry and blueberry fruit, showing polished accents of cracked pepper, smoke and loamy mineral. Drink now through 2022. 540 cases made.—T.F.

104 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

Rosenblum Petite Sirah California Heritage Clones 2011 $18 Vivid, pure and ripe wild blueberry

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Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Paso Robles 2013 $20 Fresh and full of lively fruit, with aromas of

raspberry and smoky cinnamon leading to supple, sleek flavors of cherry, licorice and spice. Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Counoise. Drink now through 2020. 6,500 cases made.—T.F.

88

Zaca Mesa Z Cuvée Santa Ynez Valley 2011

$20 Racy aromas of dried cherry and smoky herb are followed by briary flavors of red plum, cedar and lead pencil. This packs in a lot of personality. Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault. Drink now through 2020. 1,921 cases made.—T.F.

OREGON Pinot Noir

95

Bomb Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2012

$50 See Highly Recommended, page 79.

blackberry flavors, finishing with a sense of seamlessness.

Best from 2017 through 2022. 458 cases made.—H.S.

93 Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea Vineyard West Hill 2012 $60 Supple and generous, this is light in texture and intense, with cherry, red plum, nutmeg and floral flavors that don’t quit as the finish lingers against delicately crunchy tannins. Best from 2016 through 2022. 300 cases made.—H.S.

93 WillaKenzie Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District Triple Black Slopes 2012 $60 Fine-tuned

tannins and flavors create harmony in this light-footed but richly flavorful red, playing cinnamon-accented raspberry and cherry fruit against wet earth and cocoa hints on the finish. Best from 2016 through 2022. 500 cases made.—H.S.

92 $50

Carden Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2012

Ripe and supple, with a sense of elegance to the generous blueberry, plum and black tea flavors, coming together harmoniously against polished tannins. Drink now through 2022. 745 cases made.—H.S.

92 Denison Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Tête De Cuvée 2012 $55 Sleek and inviting, with gener-

ous flavors of red plum and blackberry that float serenely over a layer of fine tannins, lingering enticingly on the finish. Drink now through 2022. 42 cases made.—H.S.

92 Maysara Pinot Noir McMinnville Cyrus Momtazi Vineyard 2012 $32 Swarms of

grippy tannins surround a dark but sleek core of black tea–inflected black currant flavors, persisting with tremendous expression on a medium-weight frame. Best from 2017 through 2022. 1,000 cases made.—H.S.

FLORA & MOE MOMTAZI Owners

92 Rex Hill Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Alloro Vineyard 2012 $55 Polished, expressive and open-

textured, with glints of floral and jasmine around a focused core of blueberry and spice flavors, persisting on the finish. Drink now through 2022. 174 cases made.—H.S.

92 Sitar Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Encore 2012 $100 Firm, focused and spicy, with cinnamon

and star anise overtones to the red berry flavors, persisting against a veil of tannins on the finish. Best from 2017 through 2022. 300 cases made.—H.S.

92 WillaKenzie Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District Emery 2012 $48 Sleek, open-textured and

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distinctive, with plum and red currant fruit. Shadings of orange peel and cardamom add to the complex, polished finish. Drink now through 2022. 800 cases made.—H.S.

dense and fleshy, with peppery cherry and blood orange flavors, lingering against nubby tannins on the open finish. Drink now through 2022. 120 cases made.—H.S.

92 WillaKenzie Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District Kiana 2012 $48 Distinctive, spicy, complex

Alexana Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Revana Vineyard Block 8 Clone 777 2012 $125 Expressive,

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Stephen Goff Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District Shea Vineyard 2012 $48 Sleek and expressive, with fleshy, tangerine-accented raspberry, cherry and spice notes that come together seamlessly, finishing with harmony. Drink now through 2022. 196 cases made.—H.S.

93

Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea Vineyard Block 23 2012 $60 Fresh and lively, with

inviting flavors of juicy red berry, floral and cinnamon, coming together smoothly on the long and vivid finish.

Drink now through 2022. 100 cases made.—H.S.

93

Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea Vineyard Block 5 2012 $60 A breezy red, with cherry,

raspberry and white pepper aromas and flavors dancing over refined tannins, lingering deftly and persistently.

Drink now through 2020. 225 cases made.—H.S.

93

Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea Vineyard Homer 2012 $86 Firm, with aromas of wet

earth and mineral weaving through the red berry and

and inviting, featuring a curled-up ball of blackberry, cherry, Earl Grey tea and spice flavors, pushing against refined tannins into a long and reverberating finish. Best from 2017 through 2022. 800 cases made.—H.S.

92 WillaKenzie Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District Terres Basses 2012 $60 Sleek and lively,

dripping with black cherry, guava and chai tea flavors, coming together smoothly on the long, reverberating finish. The polished tannins don’t get in the way. Drink now through 2022. 500 cases made.—H.S.

91

Aubichon Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2012 $37 Warm, sleek and generous, with raspberry, red plum, clove and tomato leaf aromas and flavors, remaining lively and persuasive as the finish lingers easily against refined tannins. Drink now through 2022. 230 cases made.—H.S.

91

Lenné Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District Jill’s 115 2012 $55 Firm in texture, with juicy currant and plum flavors at the core, shaped by gritty tannins and earthy, crushed-stone aromas on the finish. Best from 2016 through 2022. 125 cases made.—H.S.

New Releases: Oregon / Washington

91

93

quince flavors on a polished frame, finishing with richness.

Riesling. Drink now through 2017. 546 cases made.—H.S.

offering dark berry, cherry, floral and roasted meat flavors, finishing with hints of fresh spices and lightly grippy tannins. Drink now through 2022. 4,011 cases made.—H.S.

with lively blackberry, red plum and delicate herbal flavors, carrying the flavors past a gentle bed of fine tannins into the long, expressive finish. Best from 2017 through 2022. 1,025 cases made.—H.S.

88

Maysara Pinot Noir McMinnville Jamsheed Momtazi Vineyard 2012 $25 Soft and generous,

91

Potter’s Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Dario Estate 2012 $25 Supple and expressive, offer-

ing guava, cherry and pear fruit, glistening with hints of white pepper and floral notes. Refined finish. Drink now through 2022. 200 cases made.—H.S.

91

Quintet Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge 2012 $45

The tannins are juicy but slightly gritty, with cherry and herb flavors on a plush frame, gaining transparency on the finish. Best from 2017 through 2020. 143 cases made.—H.S.

91

Rex Hill Pinot Noir Willamette Valley La Colina Vineyard 2012 $55 Ripe and expressive, this is relatively light-footed but juicy, with spicy, mineralaccented blackberry and iris aromas and flavors, lingering easily on the expansive finish. Drink now through 2022.

173 cases made.—H.S.

91

Rex Hill Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea Vineyard 2012 $58 Dark, spicy and open-textured,

floating the blueberry, cherry and plum flavors over delicately peppery tannins, expanding on the finish. Best from 2017 through 2022. 162 cases made.—H.S.

91

Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea Vineyard Estate 2012 $42 Fresh, spicy and light-

Betz Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Père de Famille 2012 $75 Fresh and vital, packed

92 $57

Betz Clos de Betz Columbia Valley 2012

Coffee, sassafras and tobacco notes add depth to the soft-textured cherry and licorice flavors in this supple, expressive style. Finishes with gentle intensity. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2020. 925 cases made.—H.S.

92

Bookwalter Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Foreshadow 2012 $45 Decidedly minerally, this has extra layers of wet stone and tar around a core of dark berry and cherry fruit, finishing with intensity and richness. The finish persists. Drink now through 2022.

1,160 cases made.—H.S.

91

Avennia Gravura Columbia Valley 2012 $35

Expressive and deftly balanced, with chai tea accents to the cherry and sassafras flavors, wrapped gently in a veil of fine tannins as the finish persists amiably. Straddles the line between power and finesse. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2022.

625 cases made.—H.S.

91

Bookwalter Protagonist Columbia Valley 2012 $60 Dense, focused and distinctive, with green

footed, with a peppery note adding to the perky raspberry and cinnamon flavors, lingering appealingly on the finish. Drink now through 2020. 4,353 cases made.—H.S.

peppercorn and sage nuances that run through the dark, brooding cherry and blackberry flavors, finishing on a smoky note. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Best after 2016. 1,337 cases made.—H.S.

91

91

the black cherry flavors, crinkly tannins and a sleek feel to the open-weave finish. Drink now through 2022. 399 cases made.—H.S.

has a spicy streak running through the cherry, guava and coffee flavors, lingering with elegance and power against nubby tannins. Drink now through 2022. 125 cases made.—H.S.

Swiftwater Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2012 $55 Dark and peppery, with a tobacco note to

91

Zenith Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Estate 2012 $25 Light and sleek, with density to the

coffee-scented blueberry and cherry fruit. The flavors dance through the finish against gently nubby tannins, lingering easily. Drink now through 2020. 490 cases made.—H.S.

90 WillaKenzie Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Jory

Hills Vineyard 2012 $48 This firm, chewy style glows within, offering cherry and cinnamon flavors on a taut frame, finishing with a light step but real intensity. Best from 2017 through 2020. 800 cases made.—H.S.

90 WillaKenzie Pinot

Noir Yamhill-Carlton District Pierre Léon 2012 $48 This has presence

and a vibrant range of red berry, black cherry, plum and spice flavors, set on a light, transparent, glassy foundation, lingering gently. Drink now through 2020. 5,000 cases made.—H.S.

WASHINGTON

Ripe and expressive, crisply balanced but generous, with apricot and honey flavors, finishing with citrusy acidity.

Drink now through 2018. 1,000 cases made.—H.S.

88 Barnard Griffin Riesling Columbia Valley 2013 $11 Off-dry, with a good balance of pear and peach sweetness playing against citrusy acidity, narrowing to a beam on the finish. Drink now. 3,600 cases made.—H.S.

86

Pacific Rim Riesling Columbia Valley Dry 2013 $10 Polished, with pretty apricot, wax and floral

flavors on a soft frame. Drink now. 15,000 cases made.—H.S.

90 Avennia Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley Oliane 2013 $25 Taut, crisp and zingy, pointing the

green apple and grapefruit flavors into a bright beam that gives off grassy and floral overtones. Drink now through 2016. 390 cases made.—H.S.

87

Barnard Griffin Fumé Blanc Columbia Valley Dry 2013 $11 Bright and lively, with zingy acidity to

the grapefruit and pineapple flavors, picking up herbal notes as the finish lingers. Drink now. 7,300 cases made.—H.S.

87 Waterbrook Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2013 $12 Light and sleek, with pretty pear and floral flavors on an open texture, lingering gently. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.—H.S.

86 Chateau Ste. Michelle Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2014 $11 This sleek white shows waxy, floral overtones to its pear and watermelon flavors. Drink now.

127,835 cases made.—H.S.

91

Revelry Cabernet Sauvignon Washington D11 Dionysus Vineyard 2011 $60 Supple, polished

and spicy, with nutmeg and pepper overtones to the smooth cherry and chocolate core, gliding easily into a long and expressive finish. Drink now through 2020. 278 cases made.—H.S.

90 Columbia Crest Coyote Canyon Vineyard Red Reserve Horse Heaven Hills 2012 $30 Dense

and expressive, packed with plum, currant, white chocolate and white pepper flavors, coming together harmoniously against firm tannins on the finish. Syrah, Grenache and Viognier. Best after 2016. 325 cases made.—H.S.

90 Lost River Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2011 $25

Dense and peppery, with rich texture to the purple plum, currant and floral flavors, coming together against crinkly tannins on the expressive finish. Best after 2016. 262 cases made.—H.S.

89

Columbia Crest Walter Clore Private Reserve Columbia Valley 2011 $35 Chewy tannins surround

Red

94

Bookwalter Conflict Conner-Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2012 $60 See Highly Recommended, page 79.

93

Avennia Sestina Columbia Valley 2012 $60 Firm in

texture, with expressive layers of toasty, sassafras-infused cherry and coffee flavors, lingering against powdery tannins. This has all the pieces in an elegant package, but needs cellaring to bring the elements together. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best after 2016.

475 cases made.—H.S.

Lauren Ashton Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2012 $50 Dark and peppery, this dense red

Efeste Riesling Ancient Lakes Of Columbia Valley Evergreen Vineyard Evergreen 2013 $20

a ripe core of blackberry and licorice flavors, persisting impressively as the finish expands, hinting at coffee and chocolate. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best after 2016. 2,500 cases made.—H.S.

WASHINGTON White

91

Pacific Rim Riesling Yakima Valley Solstice Vineyard 2013 $24 Light and bright, with pretty

apple, tangerine and spice flavors on a lean frame, persisting impressively on the harmonious finish. Drink now through 2020. 445 cases made.—H.S. CHRIS PETERSON & MARTY TAUCHER Owners & Winemakers

89

Dunham Four Legged White Columbia Valley 2013 $15 Lightly sweet, with lovely pear and

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ALCP *(# )'(, N@E< JG<:K8KFI 107

FAQ

DON’T LABEL ME Don’t judge a wine by its label. In the U.S., many specific-sounding terms are in fact meaningless, and even terms regulated by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) can allow considerable wiggle room. And you might be surprised which kinds of label art the TTB deems outrageous enough to reject.

READ BETWEEN THE WINES Château, Estate, Domaine, Bodega, Cellars, Vineyards—none of these is regulated.

There is no legal definition of “old vine.”

You could call anything “old vine.”

DR. VINNY Dear Dr. Vinny, I was under the impression that Sherry

CHÂTEAU DR. VINNY

could only come from an area of Spain, just like Champagne can only come from that

Could be up to 25% not Zinfandel.

region of France. Please enlighten me.

—Elio, Canada Dear Elio, You’re correct that most of the world agrees that Sherry comes from Spain ex-

Could be up to 15% from other appellations.

clusively, just as Champagne should only refer to sparkling wines from the Champagne region of France. Sherry is made primarily from Palomino grapes from the Jerez region of Spain, as recognized by the

Could be up to 5% from other vintages.

European Union.

Until recently, the United States had declined to regulate the use of terms such as Sherry and Champagne the way the E.U. did. That all changed in 2005 with a trade agreement that resulted in the U.S. no longer permitting new uses of terms previously considered “semi-generic,” such as Sherry,

This means the winery on the label did not make the wine. If it had, the label would say “produced by.”

O L D VIN E ESTATE GROWN ZIN FAN D EL NAPA VALLEY VINIFERA VINEYARD PRIVATE RESERVE 2015 Cellared & bottled by Dr. Vinny’s mom Alcohol 14.2% by volume Contains sulfites

ABV can be mistated by 1.5% if between 7% and 13.9% overall, and by 1% if true ABV is 14% or higher.

In the U.S., wine with 10+ parts per million must include this. But sensitivity is rare, and sulfites occur in many foods, from baked goods to condiments.

You’d expect this to mean the winery grew the grapes in vineyards it owns or controls, but the term is unregulated.

“Estate bottled,” however, means the winery grew and vinified the grapes, bottled and aged the wine. Soup to nuts.

Could be up to 5% from other vineyards.

“Reserve” means nothing in the U.S.; in Spain, Italy and Portugal similar terms are regulated and refer to wines that have been aged for certain periods of time.

Champagne, Burgundy, claret, Chablis, Chianti and Port.

Those who’d already been labeling their wines with these terms were grandfathered in and allowed to continue using them. But labeling laws require that such terms appear next to the actual appellation or place of origin, to help minimize confusion.

—Dr. Vinny

Dr. Vinny provides answers to all sorts of wine questions, here and at winespectator.com. Submit your queries at www.winespectator.com/drvinny or on Twitter via @AskDrVinny.

108 N@E< JG<:K8KFI ALCP *(# )'(,

T HE BE AU T IFU L A N D BA N N E D What makes a label unfit to print?

The suggestion of driving on a Sine Qua Non label was scandalous enough for the TTB to reject it. Ditto the reclining nude on Mouton’s 1993 label by artist Balthus and Bonny Doon’s 2005 Cardinal Zin, the latter deemed offensive to Catholics by some states.