09 Magazine issue#24

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Is SUP’ i goat bong the of the m ating illennia ?

WORD FROM Paul Moretti Hayden Chamberlain Mossy & GC Matt Scorringe UNcle HiNge

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Intro...

Well 09ers, I guess we’ve arrived at that time of year again.

The water’s cooling, the snow is building down south and it is dark too early to go for an after-worker. Yep, winter’s here again unfortunately and there’s sweet f@ck all we can do but ride it out, hoping for little windows of gold strewn amongst the storms that love to batter our skinny little country. The 09 team are preparing for winter accordingly; CPL has painted his bedroom black and is preparing for some lengthy selfreflection (or is that exploration?). Emerging only occasionally to dust the house with talcum powder or empty the vacuum cleaner bag. Our designer, Luke, has decided to grow a beard

Check out this issue’s artyfarty for more about Rowan’s amazing photography Art & design: Luke Darby luke@zepher.co.nz Editor: Paul Greenland greeny09zine@hotmail.com Stalin Styled Director: Craig Levers photocpl@xtra.co.nz 09 Magazine Proudly Printed in the 09 by Icon Print.

and move to Murupara for the duration, in the hope that the lady he is seeing online actually is a 5’10” lingerie model and not an overweight forestry worker posing as a woman.

Uncle Hingey was last seen fossicking for sperm samples in a dumpster out the back of Fort Lane muttering to himself ‘Winter is just a state of mind. La Nina is coming, La Nina is coming. It’s not cold, I’m Norwegian...’ That just leaves me. I think I’m leaning towards Murupara myself. A nice tight-knit community and you never know, there might just be two hot, single lingerie models holed up down there throwing pyjama and pillow fight parties all winter long!!! Yeeeah boyee!! Failing that, 09 will be back in spring with more of the madness we all love. Bye for now, I’ll be thinking about you all, I promise!

- Greeny and the 09 team

09 Magazine is published by: PhotoCplMedia www.photocpl.co.nz photocpl@xtra.co.nz.

CMB 33, Piha, Waitakere 0646 Copyright PhotoCplMedia All rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording and otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher.

Neither facts, views and opinions expressed in advertising or text are necessarily agreed to by the editor or publisher of 09 and while all reasonable steps have been taken to ensure accuracy, no responsibility will be taken by the editor or publisher of 09 magazine for inaccurate information. Thanks - love you long time?

Coverstory.

Greeny’s thoughts; A lonely figure stands upon an enormous craft, slowly dipping their oar into the water in an effort to provide forward momentum. As a small swell passes under the beast, the rider wobbles and is almost tipped into the sea, saved only by the buoyancy of this behemoth of a surfboard. With some difficulty they turn the plank around to shore and stroke feebly into a small wave, narrowly avoiding the collection of several normal surfers who were obviously enjoying the fun two footers before the Titanic crashed their little party. Not surprisingly they dig a rail trying to turn and the board bounces violently sideways through a group of learners, threatening to decapitate them, or at least cause serious bodily harm to anyone unlucky enough to be in the way.

Stand-up paddle boarding or SUP’ing seems to be the latest little trend to be sweeping the surfing planet Matthew Machonohay, Cameron Diaz and even Paris Hilton have been spotted atop enormous boards, so it’s gotta be cool right?

Umm…right. It looks like to me that in a last ditch effort to catch more waves and bane more people, short of motorising your equipment or using a Jet-Ski. Greedy old men have resorted to riding small cargo ships in the surf, propelled by a paddle and captained with less skill than the Exxon Valdez shortly before it ran aground in Alaska. Personally I have had a lot of fun leisurely stroking one down a river in Basque coun-

try, but in the hands of an un-skilled surfer in crowded waves they are an accident waiting to happen. 20 plus kilos of board being thrown at high speed by a wave and without the ability to manoeuvre quickly to avoid someone, it’s only a matter of time before some poor soul cops one to the head and dies.

Frankly they should be banished to Takapuna beach or inland waterways where they can do no harm, or at the very least, somewhere away from other water users. I know for a fact that they are banned by locals in quite a few places already, is it selfish to stop these people having fun, or do they need to realise that it’s not that cool to paddle out in a crowd and scare the shit out of everyone and catch every single set wave?

VINYL VINYL LASERCUT LASERCUT STICKERS STICKERS BOARD BOARD DECALS DECALS ETC ETC BANNERS BANNERS BILLBOARDS BILLBOARDS LIGHTBOXES LIGHTBOXES POSTERS POSTERS & & DISPLAYS DISPLAYS FLYERS FLYERS CARDS CARDS L/HEADS L/HEADS ETC ETC

P.09 441 7247 Email: simon@iconprint.co.nz

CPL’s thoughts; Ocean Sweepers, SUP’s, standing goat-boaters; is the Sunday SUP-er Saturday’s lyrca clad cyclist on Scenic Drive? As the publisher of this lil’ rag, I probably should be towing a more conservative line than Greeny, as in the past we have run stories on SUP’s and even garnered adverts… won’t from here on in huh? I find it hard to offer a counter-piece to Greeny, I have had to duckdive a 12 foot rider-less barge as Greeny has described 3 times this last summer- I’m fucking off them, well and truly.

Of course there are exceptions like Laird Hamilton, Tom Car-

roll, Luke Egan and even our own Lynden Kennings who take to these vessels and make them look like fun and it is wicked to see their skills. But c’mon; a middle-aged Palangi from the Bays in Auckland???? You’re not reconnecting with your ancient Hawaiian roots bra’, you’re a white, balding, fat, account manager whose ancestors more likely gave Polynesians the pox and banned them from surfing.

So why this venomous and tremendously negative outburst from us? Well it’s is easy to poke a stick at the new sect, and that’s what you are Ocean Sweepers, just another fad in a long line of alternative wave riding craft. As with most fads there is a period were novices are the majority and it’s these participants that are the concern- not because they are new but because that newness to the line-up means they don’t understand the rules and that there are even rules. Don’t be greedy, be considerate of other people trying to enjoy the ocean, assess the line-up before you go out- is there a chance you’ll loose your board?

Is it crowded already? Are the waves out of your league- would you be better off on some other board on that day?

Enjoy your new found fun friend, but please be considerate of others.

CAMS: Muriwai, Maori Bay North Piha, South Piha Mangawhai Heads, Raglan Whangamata, Hot Water, Mt Maunganui and more.

Check out SURF2SURF.com for the lastest reports and long range surf forecasts.

Shapeshifting.

Being a part of the ‘surf industry’ [read- wank wank] and being a ‘journalist’ [read wank wank squared] all the time you hear gos’ that is so fucking juicy.

And then your bro’s go ‘oh but you can’t print that aye mate’… fuck! Why the fuck did ya tell me then you fucking fag. And then you think “but don’t not tell me bro, ‘cos we are mates and I do wanna hear what’s happening in your life- ahhhh the conundrum of making your passion your job.

In past issues of 09 Mag we featured a big ol’ expose on the Primates’ shenanigans with the evolution of the FACTORY is Kumeu. [See how I used Primates and evolution in the same sentence- and ruined it by highlighting it] well there’s always been a second stage to the program. That and the ol’ economic downturn has lead to an ever changing plan for Primal Surf, but hell, why should I type it all out and get it wrong- here’s Primal’s founder, Glen Carkeek’s word on it:

But wait there’s more- the retail side of Primal has had a change up too; here’s word from the new owner Mr Simon Amos;

“I guess it’s time to give you the scoop. What the story is, there’s a new factory in Indonesia with a whole new concept in worldwide production. It’s fully western run and managed 24/7 with a relocated Oz blank manufacturer on-site. I’ve been invited to share the facility in the very same way we have a shared facility in Kumeu. It’s a hub for international shapers to produce boards in large volume for the worldwide market.

The R & D we have done here in NZ with epoxy construction hasn’t gone unnoticed and Primal NZ is being seen as a technology and product development centre. Some very big names are booked to come, which will mean rubbing shoulders with some very knowledgeable shapers. We will be able to bring this knowledge and product back to NZ. I’ve ensured this factory is available for all of NZ’s top shapers to visit and share in the buzz. I feel it is important that the core of the industry who have sweated the dust will benefit the most from this opportunity. It’s an exciting time for the board industry here with a load of new technology about. Surfers in NZ will be among the first to see it all.

Cheers, GC

Okay so it wasn’t as straight forward as that, but close. I guess after over ten years of blood, sweat and beers here at Primal it was only natural for me to buy into the business I’ve been emotionally invested in for so long. Still having Glen and Bryce on board as partners is a draw card due to all their combined experience and dedication to seeing the business succeed. Although, I do wonder if they just needed some money for surf trips, pokies, and beer and couldn’t be arsed doing accounts and paying wages anymore so they suckered me into it. The reality is we all love the industry and it’s hard to envision doing anything else...so here we are. What’s in store for the future of The Board Lab?...(‘cuse the pun) in a nutshell, more brands and goodies for all you fellas. One thing I can say is there’s a lot of exciting things happening at the moment for the boys at Primal and I’m pretty stoked to get in on the action.

So if you’re in the area, pop in and check out our little venture.

Peacesoup, Mossy

“I guess I’ll put it down a simple account of how things panned out..and why…or whatever.

Bryce: Yo Mossy, do you want to buy into the retail side of our business? Glen and I want to get into the wholesale and Indo side of things a lot more and it’d be good to have someone we love and who we think is super cool to part own the Takapuna shop with us.

Me: Yeah...sweet. I’m in.

Bryce: Cool...oh, we need to come up with a new name for the shop/company we’re forming...(5 seconds later) how about The Board Lab? Glen (in the background): Yeah.

Mossy: Yep Bryce: Sounds good..sweet, lets do it.

All: Coolio. Deal done.

Now, all I have to do is get Mr Jones and Mr Wigg to spill on the fins eheheheheheheh -CPL

Dustman.

Words and pic CPL Jeez- is it really over a decade since Hayden Chamberlain’s oldies dropped him off at Charlie Chase’s gaff to board [ehheehheh get it- board- ‘cos he borded there…ahahah] and learn the surfboard industry under the Fresh Squeezed label, the bugged eyed Dargaville grom sure got a baptism by fire. A steep learning curve by any measure, I wonder what the 17 year old thought of all the late night shenanigans that went on in that marvellous den of inequity; shaping, sanding and glassing bays out the front, Piha’s party house upstairs…the ol’ glass topped dinner table…ahhh the hazy, shaydee memories.

Hayden’s plied away at his trade since then,

ding boy, sander, glasser and all the time learning his craft as a shaper. 18 months ago in 09 Mag we featured him as our Dustman,

he was shaping for Primal out of the new Kumeu premises. Now he’s made the ultimate move, he’s set up HC surfboards- his own premises in Keeling Ave, Hendo. While shaping is most certainly Hydo’s passion and focus, he’s still contract glassing to just about all the other 09 shapers- he’s busy.

Over the last few years Haydo has also become fully immersed in the machinations of the APS3000- that’s that flash-as computerised shaping machine to us punters.

“I think that hand shaping a board is the ultimate skill, but I reckon the key is to use your skills as a hand shaper to develop the prototype- the magic- then enter that board’s dimensions into the programme. From there you have the reliability and consistency that the machine gives you.”

Hayden’s picked up an impressive bevy of riders; Scotty Bell, JC Susan, the Moretti bro’s, Indian Nick and Timmy O’Conner all have HC’s under foot. He’s doing good things, check out his website www.hcsurfboards.com

Dear Uncle Hingey.

Being a guy, I’ve typically always found it hard to talk about my problems and emotions. When I saw your column in the last issue, I knew that you were the go-to guy for advice. It seems like you can take a complex problem, break it down into its fundamental components and root out the solution. I myself have found myself in a sticky situation of late. It would seem that I am addicted to sex. It doesn’t matter who or what I am with, as long as I am getting it and often. I have tried masturbation as a cure but I feel that it’s like being on the methadone program trying to quit heroine. Sure, it placates the urges somewhat and steadies the nerves temporarily but it is just not the same; before you know it you’re down some back alley off K’Rd with a six-foot-eight Somalian tranny having a $40 knee trembler against an overflowing rubbish skip. It has gotten to the point where I’m picking up 300 pound solo mums down at the Mt Roskill Pak’n Save on a Tuesday morning and not showing up to work ‘cos I’ve gone and wanked myself into a 3-day coma again. What should I do? I really need help or I’m afraid this is going to destroy my life. Please help me Mr. Hinge before it is too late- Dave Hello Dave, To start with, thank you for your complements, I really pride myself in being able to root out a solution with even the ugliest of issues. I will go down and sniff out the issues on anything standing in the way of the communal thrust for “the better life”.

I always like to remind my clients that – “He who conquers others is strong and he who conquers himself is mighty”.

You have just made the first of the two hardest steps to dispel and conquer your demons. The first step towards change is awareness; the second step is acceptance.

As with many of these issues you describe, there’s a sense of entrapment and that you’re alone in this world. Well Dave, you’re not alone my friend, sexual addiction is very common among rabbits, mice and people in Hamilton. You

have what I refer to as a progressive intimacy disorder characterised by compulsive sexual thoughts and acts. Like all other addictions, its negative impact on yourself, your family and all the very fortunate, freshly laid 300lb single mothers in Mt Roskill increases as the disorder progresses. Over time your thirst will intensify and the levels of addictive behaviour will need to be increased to achieve the same perceived euphoric results. In short, subconsciously you are replicating the act of mating and reproduction but it really doesn’t matter with what or who!

You really need to make vast gains in self esteem and adopt a complete respect for your sperm my friend. I just recently conducted studies and concluded that the male sperm actually have a complete awareness of their surroundings and an insatiable longing directly mirrored to their owner’s desires. In one of the studies I tagged and released some donor sperm into a South Island river

Napes is better versed in knee buckling cuttys not so much the K Road knee trembler-pic CPL

close to Gore. 3 months later I tracked the signals down; they were clustered next to a mussel incrusted pile below the Hilton hotel in Auckland. It turned out Justin Bieber had been staying in the room directly above, maybe the catholic priest in Gore wasn’t the best donor for my studies, however it did prove a point. You need to be a lot more selective as to how, when, and who you choose to release your little buddies into this world with.

As an example for you, just last week I ran a conference about sexual behaviour after All Black victories or defeats. There was man present who was having a self described “long-term sexual relationship with a ghost” I was very interested to investigate this further so I asked the rest of the room, “who else has had this same experience?” A farmer raised his hand, I asked him “how does it feel to have sex with a ghost?” the farmer responded “ahhhh shit man; sorry I thought you said a goat”.

Both of these men have a below average respect for their sperm placement. The same can be said when you see a couple of truckers exchanging loads by the side of the road or when you see glitter covered men having an argument then heading outside to exchange blows. The result is always the same, innocent sperm swimming in shit.

So what I ask of you Dave is, next time you close your eyes desperately imagining Megan Fox whilst trying not to see the 6 ft 8inch Somalian tranny in front of you, as you look around your musty room at all the soggy toed socks and empty 1litre tins of industrial lube, or as you suffocate under the sweaty gunt folds of a 300lb solo mum beneficiary, please my friend ask yourself, “does my sperm deserve a better life?”

magazine Ahh - look at those puffy clouds - aren’t they pretty. Pic CPL

Bribes.

C’mon and be our buddeees on facebook and we’ll give you free shit, well, we might make you jump through a few hoops first. This issue we’ve got 3 bribes- first up; Skull Candy…oohhhh loooook at these Low Riders, 40mm drivers, ipod and iphone compatible…fucking fancy is what we’re calling, want them?

Go to our facebook page and leave a comment about why you should be rocking and rollin’ with these Low Riders.

Next up the good peeps at West have come to the 09 party with a winter clothing pack worth a whooping $250…are you down with the drill yet? Say which West teamrider was most recently profiled on our Sure to Rise page- leave a comment on 09 Magazine’s facebook page- first in first serve.

And lastly; a pair of Arnette’s latest shades ... simply head to the 09Magazine facebook page to post the funniest comment about the new cover & be in the running for a pair of

high life

Do you reckon John Key has ever seen Shippies gold like this? Joe Moretti- pic CPL

Environmental Perspectives. words Tony Baker

With Northland’s Drought almost a distant memory after the past few weeks of torrential rain and shit brown pits, it’s always great to see the duck hunters living a happy autumn existence. Paddocks have been turned from what would resemble your typical Alice Springs back yard into part time lakes all over the 09. And as you would imagine it has made it a Paradise Duck’s worst nightmare. I heard one local surfer up north bragging about his 12 gauge, 6 shot semi auto and how we should smash out limit bag in 5 minutes on the way to the surf.

The phrase “Weather Bomb “always makes my ears prick up – and the last couple have really delivered the goods on both coasts. Just stay away from the river mouths or you might find yourself sharing the line-up with a dead cow or tree trunk. Even worse, possibly a case of the shits courtesy of the local cow cockies. A recent article published by UK Newspapers stated “New Zealand was a friend to Middle Earth, but it’s no friend of the earth”. The comments were made as criticism of the NZ Agricultural sector, after one of the North Island’s main rivers was named as one of the most polluted rivers in the Western World. And where do our rivers lead to...the ocean. As always it is only a few farmers that continue to use the environment as a dumping ground. Agriculture Minister David Carter has put out the warning of stronger regulations “to target those remaining farmers who blatantly pollute”.

Maybe Mr Carter could whisper some sense in the Prime Minister’s ear and see if they can’t apply the same logic to the government’s proposed mining of conservation land and national parks. John Key would have been feeling the heat on May 1st if he was on Auckland’s Queen Street.

Up to 50,000 people marched in protest in what some called the biggest march in living memory. Organisers said “Take heed, John Key and your Government. Had you been there today on Queen Street, you would have felt energy untapped since the heady days of anti-nuclear marches. New Zealanders have spoken; you must listen.

We will not stand by while you squander our land, reputation and climate”.

It's just not cricket.

Jos and Sarah Hurl Jos Kennings with his newly wed Sarah have taken on the Hurley mantle. Jos has been one of Billabong’s key reps for many years as has Sarah for Rip Curl, so as you can imagine the dynamic duo know their shit. Well actually it’s a trio; former partner and CEO of Billabong NZ, John Snelling is backing the venture. The American brand has had a long connection with NZ, the late Col McNeill shaped his boards under the Hurley name in the 80’s and early 90’s in the far 09, the ‘Col McNeill Memorial comp is hosted by the Maori Bay Board Riders every year. Expect to see lotsa styley Hurley wears in store from now on.

Swiss Cheese 09 poster poser, contributor, artest and all around good c_nt Linden Simmons is currently in Solothurn, Switzerland on a three-month artist’s residency. He’s won the Kaipara Foundation Wallace Trust Award last year. As you may know the Wallace Trust Awards are a massive deal in the fine art world.

Linden’s current works are small detailed watercolours reflecting current events- amazingly delicate for such a big lug. The pieces are inspired from newspaper photographs and are often challenging graphic scenes- tiny beautiful watercolours- medium normally associated with grandma’s and landscapes jux-

taposed with hauntingly graphic scenes of mans’ destructive forces. Google him, check out the Tim Melville Gallery.

Things you should know about Linden; he’s the mellowest humble guy you could meet for a man mountain. A decade ago he was the cover model for the Listener, posing for a youth suicide article [he used to be a model, not the other option]. Never drop in on him, ‘cos he’s gonna make the section- damn-it!!

Wave Box No More???

Blame the recession, blame whatever and whoever you will, but the long and the short of it is the proposed Albany indoor wave pool looks to have been put on permanent hold. The big black building up on the eastside of the northern motorway has had a ‘for lease’ sign in front of it for the last few months, the website is blank and former partner Gav Murdoch has walked away from the project. 09 Magazine did a full report on the advances the fellas had made 2 issues ago, check it out online on our pageflip in the back issues section. No doubt the Wave Box venture was an ambitious plan, fought with major hiccups and in fact is not the first time someone has tried and failed to float the concept, but fuck, wouldn’t it have been cool to have an indoor wave riding facility in the 09- bugger.

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Paul Moretti with the best way of getting out of doing the dishes - pic CPL

Meet whippersnapper Paul Moretti, as you’re about the read he’s part of a surfing whanau that have been immersed in the whole contest thing for a few years now. They stand out ‘cos both Paul and his older bro Joe rip, they stand out ‘cos their old boy completes the 3 musketeer combo in the family camper at every national comp.

Where do you live? Our home is Mimiwhangata, Northland where Dad manages a farm park for DoC that includes a camp ground, some rare birds and heaps of history. We do correspondence school, Mum holds it all together, teaches the little bro Ben and keeps the farm going whilst Dad, Joe and I hit the comp circuit.

Sounds like an amazing part of the 09 area code, did you learn to surf there as well? Yeah I stood up on my first proper wave where I live now.

You guys are getting to be pretty well travelled since you’ve been going to all the comps, are you getting

jaded on it? I’m still loving it, but feel like I need some affordable development to help my surfing get to where I want it to be.

So where do you see yourself in 5 years time? Travelling overseas in the Pacific Islands and Indo, Dad wants to go to the Phoenix Islands and the Anderman Islands in the Indian Ocean in our boat we are making. It is a 42 foot Wharram catamaran, the family is making it with help from a good mate who is a boat builder. And I want to be competing and doing well on the pro junior circuit.

What’s your best move? Getting out of doing the dishes haha. Otherwise pulling in to solid pits is my favourite.

Your older bro, Joe is surfing pretty damn solid nowadays; do you reckon you’ll be better than him when you’re his age? For sure!

Shout outs to; John and Karen at Ocean and Earth, Hayden at HC surfboards, West wetsuits, Rick at Island Tribe Sunblock and everyone that helps out... also Mark for helping us get the dream surf machine built. Cheers bro!!!

send ur pipi’s to photocpl@xtra.co.nz

Stu

uck in the 09.

I’m driving deep into the heart of Auckland suburbia, away from any surf beach or anything remotely surfing based. It’s a heavy trip town bound; I’m stoked to be going to catch up Matt Scorringe, because in the past we have been on so many surf trips, shared so many waves and good times over the years.

But our scheduled morning tea is for all the wrong reasons; Matt’s not in the 09 area code to further his already stellar surf career, nor to advance his education, or to move into a jobMatt has cancer.

That’s a bit dramatic huh? But if you break it down to the brass tacks, this rather significant bump in the road is the only reason the Whangamata born’n’bred surfer has been locked into suburbia for the last 6 months- round after round of chemotherapy that will ensure he should be around for quite a few more sessions on the Bar. Just after New Years, Matt was back in Whanga, having a break from travelling the world videoing with Josh Kerr. He was having random nose bleeds and his energy levels were low- something just wasn’t quite right. He went to his GP and had some tests run- sweet as. He’s chilling in his flat with the boys sipping on a few brews when there’s a knock at the door, it’s his doctor. “Matt, the tests are back and we’re going to Auckland Hospital.” “whaaat, when?” “I’m here to take you to Auckland Hospital right now, pack your bag.”

Matt’s form of Leukemia [Acute Promyelocytic LeukemiaAPL] is treatable, but Matt has had to undergo an invasive programme of debilitating drugs, he has been stripped of muscle mass, from a strapping 85kgs to a 67kg wisp. His immune system has been decimated and so his battle is often a very lonely one as contact with the outside world has to be restricted.

He might be back in the water this year but it’s questionable if he’ll ever compete at International or National elite levels- he was 2nd in the Nats to Jay Quinn in 2008 as well as competing for years on the WQS. “I can’t wait to get in the surf again; I’ll be the most amped grommet you’ll ever see. I’m not thinking about competitive surfing, I’m just looking forward to being

in the water again.”

I can’t impress enough the terrible journey that Matt has been put through, but his story is also one of the larger surfing community getting in behind one of our brothers in their time of need at a personal direct level…enter stage left Matt’s best mate Dan Scott and his long time girlfriend Casey Ross.

Former Piha resident grub, Dan Scott’s effort has been nothing short of saintly; Dan created and administers a Facebook page for Matt, and has rallied nearly 1300 members. Dan has organised sausage sizzles, massively successful fundraisers and constant updates to generally get the word out. The fundraisers in themselves are a story, with many of NZ’s surf artists like Daryn McBride donating huge pieces, Matt’s sponsors contributing large amounts of product to the cause and then people throwing down big bills on the trademe and physical auctions.

Casey has put her own life on hold to care for her man. Anyone who has been the primary care giver or knows someone who has done so will know the weight those simple words bare.

Casey’s on-going love and capacity to care for Matt has been incredible- he’s a lucky man.

Josh Kerr and his family have also been hugely and directly supportive, organising a big fundraiser on the Goldy which saw boards donated and raffled from the likes of Kerr, Fanning and Parkinson. The aroha and support from everyone has had a profound positive effect both financially and emotionally for Matt.

I drive away from Matt and Casey’s warm home in the ‘burbs, the couple have lifted my heavy mood with their company and laughter. They are clearly grateful, humbled and grounded by everyone’s generosity. We’ve talked of this and we’ve talked enthusiastically of the future and all it will hold -of how I was the first to take and publish images of Matt surfing a decade ago and how I’ll stoked be the first to do so again- soon.

We’ve also talked about the people that are in the same position that Matt’s going through, that don’t have the flood of support Matt has been blessed with, of the other patients in his ward that had no cards or visitors, of the old boys who had driven themselves in for their Chemo. This acknowledgment and awareness is demonstrated on Matt’s Facebook page, while early posts were clearly a call to arms for Matt directly, now the posts more about those in need of help also.

Matt is very active with his blog oystersource.wordpress.com there’s some classic pieces of gold, also check out the links on his Facebook page for more information about APL and what you can do to help other hematology patients.

Artyfarty.

What ever does happen to old editors? Do they

rapher as well as travelling to the States and surf-

simply devolve back into the cesspool that whence

ing lakes. 09 Mag caught up with him in his palatial

they came? Or is that shifty front row of burnouts at

residence, just within striking distance should a Taka

Showgirls each and every lunchtime our editorial

Stormy threaten. Here is what Rowan’s been doing;

dumping ground? As it turns out neither for 09’s past

‘You can bandy about ideas and concepts, a.k.a waffle, for just

Eds; founding legend Leigh Hawker is married with

so long. But like naming your kid, as soon as the tag sticks,

2 beautiful kids and working on the Goldy. Rowan

a personality begins to grow. I coined the term “Wet Colour”

Klevstul has been developing his craft as a photog-

driving to catch a recent cheeky north swell at my favourite

break, but the scheme has been boiling away for years.

Growing up on the Shore I spent many wistful teenage hours watching our reefs, stream-bars and beachies cough up tiny perfect waves. Surf-mad and stoned, I’d dream of shrinkripping those epic spinners until sobering up enough to go home.

Having photographed surfing all over the show since 2000: Oz, Fiji, Indo, the Americas, Porridge to Tapotupotu, and the lifestyles and environs they encompass, it’s a nice symmetry

to be finally training my lens back onto the waves of home.

A step back in time with new eyes. Sure the surf ‘round here usually sucks – that’s why you travel, but that same old enthusiasm remains – I still get so amped watching a two inch ripple pitch flawlessly across a mid-tide Campbies shelf. The project spans further than the North Shore, my whole creative buzz for the last year has been focused on ocean photography.

Watch this space, and surf.co.nz, for dates of the upcoming Wet Colour exhibition.’