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TREND

Grand DESIGNS

Absolutely Sussex meets the chef behind the food at restaurant Cyan, which has big ambitions to add extra colour to Brighton’s dining scene

By MARK KEBBLE

NEIL GOODING

As the days get shorter and chillier, one real advantage about the change in weather is that we can indulge once again in hearty Sunday roasts – and this is where Cyan, housed in the Grand Brighton hotel, excels. “We decided to run Sunday lunch throughout the day, which has had a great reaction from customers,” explains Neil Gooding, the man behind Cyan’s foodie operation. “We have many regulars who return simply for a Sunday roast, either for lunch or early dinner.”

It’s one example of how Cyan has had an innovative approach to their menus – there are plenty of places I have visited for a Sunday roast, only to be left disappointed when the last cut was sold at lunch. Their

“Artisan suppliers are a luxury on our doorstep and we want to help local businesses”

Fish Fridays is also hugely popular, making full use of Cyan’s location, and a takeaway service is almost as good as the main event.

As much as we sometimes all like to eat at home, you’d be missing out on a real experience if you didn’t enjoy Neil’s food in the restaurant. The first thing that strikes you when entering Cyan is the wonderful design. “The name Cyan originates from the green-blue colour which is featured throughout the restaurant,” Neil explains. “The design inspiration not only comes from the colour, but for us it is also where land meets sea with the combination of fresh local fish and seafood, and great meat dishes.

“Guests are guaranteed an indulgent dining experience no matter what they choose,” Neil continues. “We have live cooking, which showcases the great talent we have and creates a brilliant interaction with sta and guests. It is also important that we have a key focus on exciting seasonal menus and dishes that change frequently, so diners can always try something new when visiting.”

How would Neil sum up the style of cooking we can expect at Cyan? “Our cooking style is a mix of modern European dishes, with some classics added in which continue to remain popular,” he says. “We focus mainly on flavour combinations, which is key to our success. It helps us create better seasonal o erings utilising local produce.

“We have a big focus on local suppliers,” Neil points out. “Due to our location next to the sea, we are not short on choice of fish suppliers. Brighton also has some fantastic artisan suppliers for meat and cheese. This a real luxury on our doorstep and it’s vital that we help local businesses to thrive.”

Neil is excited to talk about are some of the dishes recently unveiled on a menu that he’s been loving. “We have some vegetarian starters that are popping with seasonal flavours,” he smiles. “For example, warm maple glazed pumpkin and squash with chestnut puree, panko crumbed cheese, and micro salad from our herb grower. There is also a new chicken dish, bursting with flavours, which we predict will be really popular: a roasted chicken with crispy tru e and potato terrine, wild mushrooms, baked onion with parsnip puree, crispy kale and chicken sauce.”

It’s the perfect appetiser for the fastapproaching festive season, which looks set to be a memorable experience at Cyan. “The Grand Brighton is the place to be at Christmas,” Neil insists, “we really get into the festive spirit. At Cyan, we are o ering festive-themed menus, as well as our take on a Christmas afternoon tea, which is served in our grand Victoria Terrace and Lounge – the perfect pre-Christmas treat.

“We are also o ering guests the chance to stay at our iconic seafront hotel to experience a magical festive getaway from Christmas Eve to Boxing Day,” he adds. “Let The Grand take care of everything with sumptuous food, entertainment and magical treats for the children, whilst you can stay in a beautiful bedroom with sea views and enjoy a fun-filled itinerary of treats.” Bring on those colder, darker days we say.

THE INTERIOR DESIGN IS QUIRKY

R A R E RECIPE PARINGS

The Chef Mélanie Serre rustles up a starter, main and vegan course to accompany a bottle of Rare Rosé Millésime 2012

Breton lobster carpaccio

with beetroot and soft spices

Starter

INGREDIENTS

• Breton lobster • Yellow, pink and red beetroot • Beetroot curry • Beetroot sorbet • Lime • Sumac • Espelette pepper

PREPARATION

1 Boil the lobster in a court-bouillon for four minutes. Shell the lobster and cut it into thin pieces. 2 On a plate, alternate cuts of lobster with slices of raw beetroot until a beautiful circle has been made. 3 Dress with olive oil and lime zest, then season with fleur de sel, sumac and Espelette pepper. 4 Add a little beetroot curry and a quenelle of beetroot sorbet at the centre.

CANDIED LAMB

BRETON LOBSTER CARPACCIO

Red cabbage gazpacho

with guacamole and fresh herbs

Vegan course

INGREDIENTS

• Red cabbage • Avocado • Lime • Coriander • Olive Oil • Curly endive • Pomegranate • Radish

PREPARATION

1 Blend a red cabbage. In the blender, mix the red cabbage juice with a tablespoon of mayonnaise, a tablespoon of red wine vinegar and gluten-free whole wheat bread. 2 Prepare the guacamole by crushing a ripe avocado with a fork. Add olive oil, lime juice, and fresh, finely cut coriander. Season. 3 Garnish the bottom of the plate with guacamole. On top, add Frisée salad, pomegranate seeds, slices of radish and chopped coriander. 4 Pour the gazpacho all around the plate.

RED CABBAGE GAZPACHO

Candied lamb

with prunes, radish and radish greens pesto

Main course

INGREDIENTS

• Lamb shank • Red radish • Blue meat radish • Red meat radish • Pruneaux d'Agens, stones removed • Roasted almonds • Olive oil • Grated parmesan

PREPARATION

1 Colour the lamb shanks in a frying pan, then slow-cook in an oven with lamb broth, spices and citrus zest. 2 Prepare the radish greens pesto, blending the washed greens and mixing with olive oil, roasted almonds and ground parmesan. 3 Finely slice the various colours of radishes into di erent shapes.

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